1900 century Turn –of –the –Century
• Charles Dana’s Gibson Look
• Gibson Girl showed a new hourglass silhouette influenced by a
man’s shirt and tie..
• The Leg o’ mutton sleeve gives
the shoulder line emphasis.
• Illustrating medium was mostly
pencil and wash or fine-point ink.
For colour medium water colour.
• 8 heads figure proportion
1916 Pre world war I
• Industrial Revolution demanded luxury
• The fashion focus moved above the
natural waistline and skirt became fluid
revealing a bit of leg.
• Buntline was focused creating a more
elongated look in the skirt and legs.
• The art of the surrealists and cubists
such as cocteau , picasso and matisse
had great impact on fashion illustrators
such as Erte , Georges lepape and Paul
• Watercolor , tempera and gouache with
fine line ink outline were prevalent and
1920 The Flapper
• Suffragette movement that resulted in
the women’s gaining the right to vote
• Boyish silhouette , flattened the chest
and dropped the waistline to the end
of the torso. Hair cropped with bangs
often worn with headbands or hats
that grazed the eyebrows .
• Water colour , tempera and gouache
techniques with fine-line ink or pencil
• Use of Vellum , a semi coated semi
transparent paper with a smooth
coated surface .
1930’s The Great Depression
• Stock Market crashed 1929, the great depression that followed made
women long for some glamour in their lives.
• Handkerchief Hemlines lengthened around sensuously shaped body
• Life like postures with slouchy figures, back emphasis, fluttering sleeves
and floral patterns were typical .
• Watercolour and gouache brush outline to soften the look of 1930’s
1940’s World War II
War Caused the American imports cut off from European Imports .
American designers rallied to fill the clothing needs of the nation
Prominent names – Claire McCardell , Adrian and Schiaparelli , Dior
New Fabrics introduced – Rayon, Nylon.. to fill the gap left by natural fabrics
Hats were revealed, exaggerated shoulder lines, Nipped in waistline,
accompanied by softly draped skirts that grazed the knee cap. Ankle –
strapped platform shoes often complete the look.
1947 New look by Dior, shoulder line softer skirt again controlled once
again with boning and crinolines.
Technique Illustrations – exaggerated shoulder line and upper bodice detail,
in contrast the waist line appears small, the hipline smooth and the skirts
easy and relaxed.
Water colour , gouache techniques for presentation of fabric details. Pencil
details and back views were often included with each fashion ‘’plate’’
Fabric swatches also came into the presentation
1950’s Fitted Silhouettes
Paralleling the ‘’New Look’’ by Dior , Charles James continued the structured
silhouette in America.
The Shirtwaist with a cardigan and pearls and the fitted sheath were the popular
day time look.
Strapless gown with flute bodice was the gala evening look.
Elizabeth taylor – rred lips , shaped eyebrow and combed hair naturally.
Balenciaga reintroduced the chemise with the sacque dress and bubble..
Yves saint Laurent popularized the trapeze and A-line/tent silhouettes.
Ideal fashion proportion - cinched tiny waist with a merry widow corset , longer
skirt lengths , ranging from mid-calf just below the knees .
Figure proportion of 8 and ½ heads.
Popular models suzy parker and dovima . creating pencil thin appearance
Water color and gouache, Inks and washes , pencils fastest recording ideas.
Charles James pencil sketches and Bergdorf Goodman .
Typial pose and attitude of 1950Elizabeth taylor and Grace Kelly often idealized in
1960’s Fashion Revolution
Cultural diversity brought eclecticism by the Kennedy administration , the beatles
eastern philosophy and Nehru.
Jackie Kennedy’s Pill box hat saturated the nation designed by Oleg Cassini
Givenchy , Valentino and Norell continued the lady like look.
Miniskirts dominated the market. Mid 1960’
Mod Look – Mark Quant in London , Andre Courreges , Paco Rabanne and Pierre
Cardin in Paris and Rudi Gernreich in America.
Go go boots ready to walk
The ‘ little girl look’ fostered by the youth movement gave way to an extremely
Heads appeared larger , armhole waist line was high , bustline flat adding child like
Bonnie Cashin Sketches reflect the exuberance and energy of the decade
combining child like quality with sophistication.
Felt tip markers introduced in 1960’s as the new quick media . instant drying
Magic markers and black Flo-master pens .
1970’s Length Options
• Hemline options from mini to midi and then to maxi allowed for more self
expression and creative dressing.
• Yves Saint Laurent’s rich and luxurious peasant. Wrapped heads with lots
of natural hair , ethnic jewellery and boots completed the look. #American
designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Geoffrey Neene and
Halston Became prominent contenders in world wide fashion .
• Popular layered look and abundance of natural hair brought the need to
elongate the figure proportion. A tall figure to carry multi layers.
• Watercolour and gouache techniques prevailed , magic markers became
the popular new rendering media.
• Breaking away from traditional approaches gave way to an individualism
and the emergence of many different styles.
1980’s Power Dressing
• Japan became an important design resource
• Issey Miyake and Rei Kowakubo experimented a lot with architectural
approaches in design combining with ancient japanese traditional
• For the first time eastern and western design philosophies became one.
• London introduced ‘Punk’ , designers like Zandra Rhodes were inspired by
• Calvin Klein , Ralph Lauren , Norma Kamali and Donna Karan dominated
• Giorgio Armani in Milan pioneered the new , softly tailored suit , skillfully
translating men’s wear to feminine form.
• Marker and colored pencil continued to be popular among designers .
• Jonathan Hitchcock’s clean illustrates both fabric and detail.
• Jennifer George emphasizes the padded shoulder .
1990’s Retro Revisited
• Haven proven themselves women retained their feminine style of
• Introduced by Giorgio Armani , Calvin Klein and Victor Alfaro ‘’The Slip’’
Dress became a new classic.
• Mix of long and short , Layered and Spare look.
• Importance of Under garments popularized , bringing the eye to the shape
of the body .
• Design Sketches of 90’s demonstrate great diversity and individuality .
• Computer generated techniques came in the picture , flat and graphic use
of markers created modern silhouette.
• Soft pastels , ink , and wash by Karl Lagerfeld have a subtle, hand-wrought
quality associated with the couture.
2000 And Beyond Individuality And Eclecticism
• Flat sketches became more important with the focus on the mass market.
Becoming an essential link between design concept and the final
production of the garment.
• Conceptual sketches usually in a rough form, continue to initiate the
design development process.
• Inspirational Photos, research, notes and fabric swatches often accompany
these rough sketches.
• Later these roughs are developed into colour flat sketches to clarify
coordination and proportion.
• These sketches to be given to the stores by designers as the collection
• Rendering on the fashion croque are often a combination of selling tool
manifesting the design coordination of the collection .
• The body posture , hairstyles, make up and accessories all of which
contribute to the total fashion look or message.
• ‘’ The Look ‘’ will continue to be a vital element of the fashion portfolio in
2000 and beyond.
• Paul Iribe – French Designer and Journalist (18831935)
• Carl Erickson – American (1891-1958)
• Christian Berard – French Artist ( 1902-1949)
• Sir Cecil Walter Hardy Beaton – English Artist (19041980)
• Rene Gruau – Italian (1909-2004)
• Irwin Crosthwait – canadian ( 1914-1981)
• Lila De Nobili – Italian Fashion artist ( 1916-2002)
Paul Iribe – French Designer and Journalist
• Iribe was with Coco Chanel, at her
villa, La Pausa, on the French
• Their modernist style, informed by
both the vitality of the
revolutionary art movements of the
era, and by the flat planes and
minimalism identified with
Japanese painting served to
revitalize the popularity of the