Sewing definitions

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Sewing definitions

  1. 1. Bustle - item of feminine apparel for pushing out the back portion of a skirt. It began as a bunching up of material behind the waist. It eventually developed into a wire cage that was attached to the petticoat and stuck out backward like a shelf, over which the dress material was draped<br />Box Pleat - A double pleat having two upper folds facing in opposite directions and two under folds pressed toward each other.<br />Yoke - Usually found on Oxford shirts or western wear, this is the small panel of fabric that comes from the shoulders and down several inches, often decorative. It may be a part of the front as well, coming from the shoulders to the chest/pocket level of the shirt.<br />Piping - A cord (or cording) covered with fabric, often used for decorative edging on garments or projects<br />Applique - Attaching a (usually) decorative fabric item onto another piece of fabric by fusing and/or sewing.<br />Pleat - A fold in fabric that is either inverted or folded outward, is not sewn except on the top edge (as in a skirt or slacks waistband), and provides decorative or functional fullness<br />Tuck - A method of folding and then sewing fabric together resulting in a raised seam, often seen in heirloom sewing, the bodice of a woman's blouse or a man's formal shirt<br />Epaulette - A decoration on the shoulder of a dress, blouse, or jacket. Seen often in military clothing or royal clothing<br />Brocade - Fabric with an all over raised design, usually used in elegant settings such as jackets, upholstery, etc<br />Bodice - Refers to the part of a garment or pattern that goes from shoulder to waist.<br />Boning - Small, usually plastic (or bone in days gone by) strips that are used in wedding gowns and other garments (such as a corset or in Elizabethan clothing) to hold a fit and usually a vertical shape for the most part.<br />Covered button - A button covered with coordinating or same fabric as the garment for which it is being made<br />Empire waist - A "waistline" that is higher than the anatomic waistline on the body. Most empire waistline dresses have the waistline under the bust or slightly below that line.<br />Hem - Fabric that it turned up on the lower edge of a garment or sleeve to provide a finished edge<br />Hook & eye closure - A type of closure that employs a small hook on one side and a loop made of fabric or metal on the other<br />Lining - Used to finish the inside of a garment, to hide the seam construction, to allow for ease of putting a garment on or taking it off, and to provide decorative effect.<br />Notion - A term used for any item used for sewing other than the fabric and the machine.<br />Pintuck - Narrow sewn rows of fabric that give a decorative raised look to a garment<br />Shank Button - A button with space left between the button and fabric<br />Slide Clasp - Couples and uncouples the ends of a chain, holds them together and allows for opening ex. for a bra or strap or corset<br />Snap - A closure device generally composed of two parts – male and female. The male snaps into the female to hold tight<br />Trim - Trim is a general term which includes rick rack, ribbon, laces, fringe, cording, and other decorative items used to embellish a garment<br />Eye-let - a small hole designed to receive a cord or used for decoration (as in embroidery)<br />Lapel - the part of a garment that is turned back; specifically :the fold of the front of a coat that is usually a continuation of the collar<br />Collar - a band that serves to finish or decorate the neckline of a garment<br />A-Line Dress - Dress style flaring gently from underarms to hem of skirt, resembling the letter A. Usually with narrow shoulders and any type of neckline.<br />Chemise Dress - Straight-cut dress with few darts and no waistline. Introduced in 1957 by French designer Hubert de Givenchy, inspired by 1920s dresses. Also called "sack dress"<br />Coat Dress - Dress fastened down front from neck to hem, like a coat, in a single or double breasted style, belted or unbelted<br />Empire Dress - Dress with high waistline just under bosom defined by an inserted piece of fabric or a seam<br />Fit & Flare - Fitted on top, flaring at the hem.<br />Jumper Dress - One piece dress with sleeves and collar of contrasting color giving the appearance of a two-piece blouse and jumper.<br />Pinafore Dress - Dress with bib-top apron, tied in back, popular for children. <br />Princess Dress - Fitted dress with flared skirt, frequently made like a coat dress, styled without a waistline seam, cut in six fitted panels from shoulders to hem.<br />Sheath Dress - Straight narrow fitted dress, usually without marked waistline, but shaped to body by vertical, double-pointed darts, ease of skirt obtained by inverted pleats at sides or center back.<br />Shirtwaist Dress - Dress with top styled like a tailored shirt, usually buttoned from neck to waist, with either a full or straight skirt.<br />Slip Dress - Simple bias cut dress with fitted top, straps over shoulder, and no waistline.<br />Tent/Trapeze Dress - Pyramid-shaped dress with broad flaring hem. Sometimes made with accordion pleats.<br />Toga Dress - Asymmetrical dress styled with one shoulder bare, the other covered, reminiscent of the Roman toga.<br />Tunic Dress - Two-piece dress with a long over-blouse, worn over a separate narrow skirt or a one-piece dress designed to give this effect. <br />Wrap Dress - Dress wrapping either to the front, or to the back. In either case, it has an extra flap which is approximately equal to the width of the skirt. <br />Baggy Pants - Cut fuller through hips with legs tapering and becoming narrow at ankles.<br />Bellbottoms - Pants cut with fullness on both the outer and inner seams to give a "bell" flare at the hem.<br />Bootcut pants - Refers to the width at hem of pants – cut wide enough so that pants can be pulled on over western boots with pant leg worn outside of boots.<br />Clamdiggers - Mid-calf slacks and snug-fitting calf-length pants.<br />Gaucho Pants - Wide, calf-length women's pants, frequently of leather.<br />Harem Pants - Bouffant pants gathered into bands at the ankles.<br />Hiphuggers - Low-slung pants of any style starting below the normal waistline, usually with belt resting on hipbones.<br />Knickers - Pants of varying widths fastened below knee with buttons, buckles, or elastic.<br />Overalls - Pants with bib top and suspender straps over the shoulders which cross in back.<br />Oxford Pants - Men's long trousers with very wide cuffed legs.<br />Palazzo Pants - Women's long, wide pajamas or culottes, with voluminous flared legs and gathered at waist.<br />Pedal Pushers - Below the knee, straight-cut women's pants, often with cuffs.<br />Bermuda Shorts - Just-above-the-knee shorts that fit close to the leg.<br />Cargo Pants - Thigh-length shorts similar to camp shorts with two very large patch pockets in front – extending almost to hem and up and over belt in a tunnel loop with one large box-pleated pocket in back with buttoned flap.<br />Culottes - Pants of any length cut to look like a skirt which hang similar to a divided skirt.<br />Cut-off Shorts - Full-length pants, often blue jeans, which have been cut off above knee and fringed.<br />Skorts - Trade name for shorts combined with miniskirt. Usually can see the "shorts" from behind, but in front looks like a plain miniskirt.<br />Straight Pants - The same width at the hem as they are at the knee.<br />Stretch Pants - Pants made from knitted stretch fabric, which conform closely to the body; very popular from 1950s to 1960s. In 1980s, popular for jeans made of stretch denim.<br />Western Pants - Low-waisted, slim fitting pants of denim or gabardine; characterized by jeans-style tailoring.<br />Balmacaan - Raglan-sleeved, loose-fitting style with small collar and buttoned up front to neck, frequently of tweed or water repellent material.<br />Battle/Lumber/Eisenhower Jacket - Copy of waist length Army jacket worn in WWII, having two breast pockets, fitted waistband, zipper fly front and turned down collars; a hip length single breasted jacket with waistband, and patch pockets with flaps.<br />Blazer/single breasted - Fitted patch-pocketed jacket worn with contrasting trousers or skirts.<br />Bolero - Waist length or above the waist jacket, usually collarless and often sleeveless, with rounded front and no fastenings; copied from the Spanish bullfighter's embroidered jacket.<br />Safari/Bush Jacket - Jacket originally worn in Africa on hunting expeditions, made of khaki cotton with peaked lapels, single-breasted front, belt, and four large bellows pockets.<br />Clutch Coat - Women's coat with no fasteners in front, worn open or clutched together with the hands.<br />Iverness - Knee length coat with long removable cape or half cape over the shoulders.<br />Lab Coat - Coat, usually with turned-down collar and single-breasted, made of white cotton, worn to protect street clothes while working in chemical or medical laboratory.<br />Trench Coat - In WWII, the trench coat became an all-purpose men's coat made with a water repellent fabric, double-breasted style with a convertible collar, large lapels, fabric belt, slotted pockets, and a vent in the back.<br />Wrap around Coat - Women's coat made without buttons or fasteners in front, held together with long self-fabric sash.<br />Cutaway - Men's black, one button formal jacket, with peaked lapels, skirt cut away from waist in front to knees in back in a slanting line; back vent topped by two buttons.<br />Double Breasted Jacket - Jacket with two rows of buttons in front, provides a double layer of fabric in front.<br />Mackintosh - Rubberized waterproof raincoat in conventional style worn by policemen and firemen.<br />Maxi Coat - Term introduced in 1969, for any ankle length coat, a radical change from the mini coat styles.<br />Regency - Coat worn by men or women, double breasted, with wide lapels and high rolled regency collar, and sometimes with large cuffs.<br />Toggle Coat - Three-length car coat closed with loops of cord through which barrel shaped wooden or metal "toggles" are pulled. Sometimes styled with a hood.<br />Bateau/Boat Neckline - Boat-shaped. Slit from shoulder to shoulder, but high in front and back.<br />Cowl Neckline (high) - Draped neckline falling in soft folds. Blouse or dress is usually cut on bias for better drape.<br />Cowl Neckline (low) - Draped neckline falling in soft folds. Blouse or dress is usually cut on bias for better drape.<br />Halter Neckline - Sleeveless front of garment held by a strap around the neck, leaving back and shoulders bare; may be gathered by a drawstring about neck, tied in bow or held by a jeweled band (as in a dog collar).<br />Jewel Neckline - High, round neckline with no binding or collar, a simple background for jewels.<br />Keyhole Neckline - High round neckline with wedge-shaped or keyhole-shaped piece cut out at center front.<br />Off-the-Shoulder Neckline - Low neckline extending around upper part of arms, baring the shoulders; sometimes with straps, sometimes made with elastic. Frequently finished with ruffles around edge.<br />Queen Anne Neckline/Collar - High, stand-up collar.<br />Round Neckline - Simple round neckline; exposing more skin than jewel-neckline but less than scoop-necked shirt.<br />Sabrina Neckline - High boat neckline fastened together at shoulders with spaghetti strings that are tied in bows.<br />Scoop Neckline - Low curved neckline, extending to shoulders or cut deep in front or back or both.<br />“U” (horseshoe) - Scooped neckline, low in front, shaped like a horseshoe.<br />Sweetheart Neckline - Moderately low neckline with heart-shaped center front, sides of neckline slant toward neck in front with back rounded.<br />“V” - Cut down in front or back to a sharp point, resembling a "V".<br />Flared Skirt - Skirts that have fullness at the hem (not at the waist). Usually gathers at waistline.<br />Pleated Skirt - Pleats act as structural folds of clothes. The pleats either hang open from the waist or are stitched down for the first few centimeters for a snug fit at the waist.<br />Peplum Skirt - Extra layer of fabric gathered at the waist and extending out.<br />A-line Skirt - Skirt flaring gently out from waist to create the outline of the letter A.<br />Box Pleated - Two flat folds meeting underneath to form box pleats, which extend around the waist alternating with inverted pleats.<br />Circular Skirt - Very full version of flared skirt; Skirt made by cutting a semi-circle out of a piece of fabric folded lengthwise. Selvages are then joined to make a full circle. Thus, when held out at the side during wearing this style of skirt forms a half circle, when open it forms a circle. Popular for skating and general wear in the 30's.<br />Gathered/Dirndl Skirt - Skirt, full and gathered into band at waist, popular in 1940s and 50s. Gathered: made in straight panels of fabric sewn together at top, and attached to waistband or bodice of dress.<br />Handkerchief Skirt - Skirt with hemline cut to fall in points as if made of handkerchiefs. Popular in 1920s, 1960s and 1980s.<br />Peg Top Skirt - Basic skirt cut full at the waistline with darts, gathers, or small-unpressed pleats. From hips to hem, skirt tapers inward, becoming very narrow at hem.<br />Prairie Skirt - Flared skirt gathered at waistband with one or two ruffles at the hem made in plain or calico-patterned fabrics.<br />Sarong - Wrapped skirt usually made of bold floral-print cotton. Used as a beach cover-up.<br />Slit Skirt - Straight-lined skirt with slashes on each side seam to knee or thigh. Straight skirt with slash at center front or center back.<br />Straight Skirt - Any slim skirt without fullness; no added fullness at the hem.<br />Tiered Skirt - Skirt made with series of flounces or tiers, may be pleated, shirred or flared and each tier is usually progressively larger than the previous one. Tiers may be all made in the same length or graduated.<br />Trumpet Skirt - Straight-line skirt with one large circular flounce at the hem, flaring like an inverted trumpet.<br />Yoke - Skirt with small fitted piece sometimes straight, pointed or scalloped, attached at waistband. Lower part of skirt attached to yoke may be gathered or gored. Yoke may be placed at front or back of skirt, or both.<br />Batwing sleeve - A type of kimono sleeve; Long sleeve cut with deep armhole almost to waist, tight at wrist, giving wing like appearance when arm is extended.<br />Bell Sleeve - Sleeve narrow at the top and set into normal armhole and flared at lower edge like a bell.<br />Bishop Sleeve - Full sleeve set into normal armhole and gathered into band at wrist.<br />Cowl Sleeve - Loose, draping at armscye.<br />Dolman Sleeve -  A type of kimono sleeve; Sleeve fitted at wrist cut with deep armhole, so that it somewhat resembles a cape from the back.<br />Juliet Sleeve - Long sleeve with short puffed top, fitted below.<br />Kimono Sleeve - Wide sleeve cut in one piece with front and back of the garment and seamed down outer and under arm like a Japanese kimono.<br />Lantern Sleeve - Plain at top and wrist ballooned out halfway between the wrist and the elbow. Cut in two pieces with a seam going around the sleeve at the fullest part.<br />Leg-o-mutton Sleeve - Full at top and gathered or pleated into armhole. Tapered to wrist where it looks like a regular sleeve. Size may vary.<br />Petal Sleeve - Short sleeve curved at hem and overlapping to give a petal-shaped effect in front.<br />Puff Sleeve - Short sleeve gathered, either at the armhole or at the cuff or band or both, producing a rounded shape.<br />Raglan Sleeve - Sleeve that extends to neckline, set in by seams slanting from underarm front and back.<br />Roll-up Sleeve - Sleeve, approximately elbow length, finished only with a narrow hem, designed to be folded-or rolled-up at least twice in lieu of a cuff.<br />Shirt Sleeve - Tailored wrist-length sleeve, set smoothly into armhole; sometimes has one or two small unpressed pleats where it joins the cuffs.<br />Two-piece Tailored Sleeve - Sleeve cut into two pieces, one for under the arm, one for top of the arm. Cut to allow for the bend of the elbow.<br />Cap Sleeve (short) - Small extension cut on the front and back of a blouse to cover the shoulder. Has a seam at the shoulder, fastening front and back of garment together, but no armhole seam.<br />

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