Contents 12 Favorite Moments 1 1 The Best Full-Day Tours 7The Best of D.C. in One Day 8The Best of D.C. in Two Days 14The Best of D.C. in Three Days 20 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 25Political Washington 26D.C. for Architecture Lovers 36Washington for Kids 44Historic Washington 50 3 The Best Museums 59National Gallery of Art 60National Museum of Natural History 64National Museum of American History 6819th- & 20th-Century Art Museums 72Special-Interest Museums 76 4 The Best Neighborhood Walks 79Adams Morgan 80U Street Corridor/14th Street 82Dupont Circle 86Georgetown 90Penn Quarter 94Capitol Hill 98 5 The Best Shopping 103Shopping Best Bets 104Shopping A to Z 108
6 The Best Outdoor Activities 115Rock Creek Park 116C&O Canal 120Georgetown 124The Mall & Tidal Basin 126 7 The Best Dining 129Dining Best Bets 134Restaurants A to Z 135 8 The Best Nightlife 143Nightlife Best Bets 146Nightlife A to Z 147 9 The Best Arts & Entertainment 153Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 156Arts & Entertainment A to Z 157 10 The Best Hotels 159Hotel Best Bets 162Hotels A to Z 163 The Savvy Traveler 167Before You Go 168Useful Numbers & Websites 168Getting There 169Getting Around 173Fast Facts 175Recommended Reading 178 Index 180
A Note from the Editorial DirectorOrganizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and thenexpect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides aredifferent. These guides tell you the best of everything, and thenthey show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficientway. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized bytime, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes witha bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.Hoping to relive the glory days of Washington and Jefferson, visitButterstick (the baby panda) at the National Zoo, or tour theSmithsonian Institution’s free museums? Planning a walk throughGeorgetown, or dinner and drinks where you can rub shoulders withlawmakers and other D.C. celebrities? Whatever your interest orschedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow.Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restau-rants, but we also help you access those special moments that localsget to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for onecomplete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res-taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild-est nightlife—it’s all here.Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors person-ally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lotwho say what they think and would never include places theywouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open tosuggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, pleasesend your comments our way at email@example.com, andwe’ll pass them on.Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companionyou can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.Warm regards,Kelly Regan, Editorial DirectorFrommer’s Travel Guides
viAbout the AuthorA Baltimore native and a Washingtonian for more than 10 years, MeredithPratt is an avid traveler, writer, and art lover. Her work has profiled interna-tional travel locales, high-powered personalities, and top D.C. destinations.Pratt’s writing has appeared in USA Today, Executive Travel, BaltimoreMagazine, WebMD, the Magazine, Washington Flyer, and many others.AcknowledgmentsTo Adam, for always keeping me grounded. And to my family, whose con-stant encouragement and support has been there when I needed it most.Thousands of thanks to my wonderful friends, who help make every dayworth it.Advisory & DisclaimerTravel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we stronglyadvise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, includinginformation on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommoda-tions, shopping, and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert whiletraveling and to remain aware of your surroundings. Avoid civil disturbances,and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and other valuables. While we have endeavored to ensure that the information containedwithin this guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, wemake no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy orcompleteness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all war-ranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particularpurpose. We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errorsor omissions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs, or expenses ofany nature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of anyadvice or information contained in this guide. The inclusion of a company, organization, or website in this guide as aservice provider and/or potential source of further information does notmean that we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware thatinformation provided through some websites may be unreliable and canchange without notice. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable forany damages arising herefrom.Star Ratings, Icons & AbbreviationsEvery hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been rankedfor quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-ratingsystem. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are ratedon a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addi-tion to the star-rating system, we also use a =icon to point out thebest bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or res-taurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in ashaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P.
viiThe following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCardFrommers.comNow that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our web-site at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access tothe most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’llfind scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car-rental bargains. Youcan even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners.Other popular features include: • Online updates of our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends • Podcasts, interactive maps, and up-to-the-minute events listings • Opinionated blog entries by Arthur Frommer himself • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussionsA Note on PricesIn the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used asystem of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (theprice of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant.Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost Hotels Restaurants $ under $100 under $10 $$ $100–$200 $10–$20 $$$ $200–$300 $20–$30 $$$$ $300–$400 $30–$40 $$$$$ over $400 over $40An Invitation to the ReaderIn researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell usabout them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers inupcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’dlove to know that, too. Please write to:Frommer’s Washington, D.C. Day by Day, 3rd EditionJohn Wiley & Sons, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ firstname.lastname@example.org
312FavoriteMomentsTrinityCollegeGlenwoodCemeteryProspect HillCemeterySaint MarysCemeteryMt. VernonSquareMt. VernonSquareSaint PaulsCollegeHoly RedeemerCollegeMc MillanReservoirCapitolReflectingPoolCapitolReflectingPoolWashingtonChannelBAndORailroadLoganCircle1115029293956951150150395HOWARDUNIVERSITY29N A T I O N A L M A L LN A T I O N A L M A L L6thSt.Florida Ave.North Carolina Ave.D St.New York Ave.Pennsylvania Ave.H St.MarylandAve.LouisianaAve.1stSt.D St.4thSt.9thSt.S.CapitolSt.D St.Massachusetts Ave.Constitution Ave Constitution Ave.Independence Ave.WashingtonAve.NorthCapitolSt.Florida Ave.York AveMassachusettsAve.RhodeIslandAve.11thSt.New YorkAve.9thSt.Ave.Michigan Ave.Columbia Rd.Harvard St.13thSt.7thSt.GeorgiaAve.VermontAve.U St.WASHINGTONNAVY YARDGALLAUDETUNIVERSITYCAPITOLHILLPENNQUARTERCORRIDORCORRIDORMc MillanParkBannekerRecreationCenterBrentwoodParkFranklinParkUnion StationPlazaStantonParkSewardSquareFolgerParkGarfieldParkMarionParkU.S. Soldiers &Airmens HomeThe SupremeCourtLibraryof CongressNational Galleryof ArtMuseum ofNatural HistoryJ. EdgarHooverFBI Building(FBI)N.A.S.A.UnionStationThe SmithsonianCastle7456113Lincoln MemorialWhite HouseHay-Adams’s Off the Record BarNational Museum ofAmerican HistoryEastern MarketSenate and House galleriesat the U.S. Capitol BuildingFord’s Theatre National Historic SiteTidal BasinNational Zoological ParkGeorgetown’s mansionsNational Gallery of Art17891274356891112100.5 mi00 0.5 km
412FavoriteMomentsPresident Harry Truman famously once said: “If you want afriend in Washington, get a dog.” While it’s true that the city isknown for its passionate politics, presidential scandals, spies, and more,American politics, with its Hollywood-like allure, is not the only attrac-tion drawing a never-ending stream of visitors to the nation’s capital. It’sa city of stunning architecture. World-class museums. Zeitgeist-chang-ing theater. Cherry trees and great green spaces. Historic neighbor-hoods. Super shopping. An international pool of locals who call thisplace home. And, of course, the monuments that honor the brave, thefallen, and the founders of this fine country. Washington is inevitably tar-geted for laughs, but once you arrive in D.C., you’ll be smiling, too.1 Stand at the foot of the Lin-coln Memorial and gaze acrossthe National Mall. The view—ofthe Reflecting Pool, the Vietnam andWorld War II memorials, the Wash-ington Monument, and, in the dis-tance, the Capitol Building—ismonumental. See p 9.2 Peer through the iron fence at1600 Pennsylvania Avenue for aglimpse of America’s most famousresidence. Unless you reserved atour months in advance, you can’tget close, but the vision alone isenough to renew your patriotic spirit.See p 31.3 Eavesdrop on the hushed con-versations between D.C. moversand shakers at the Hay-Adams’svenerable Off the Record Bar.Grab a stool and chat with longtimebartender John Boswell, confidantto ambassadors, spy masters, andpresidents. Then cross LafayettePark, past the White House, to thePOV Bar in the W Hotel for sweep-ing, not-to-be-missed views of theNational Mall. See p 151.4 Marvel at the country’s culturaland historic icons at the Smithson-ian’s National Museum of Ameri-can History. This sprawling spot ishome to the Star-Spangled Banner,Dorothy’s ruby slippers, Kermit theFrog, and more. See p 68.5 Troll for treasures from East-ern Market on Capitol Hill. Savor apiping hot coffee and flaky pastry asyou scavenge for secondhand bau-bles, retro clothing, colorful flowers,The Reflecting Pool on the National Mall, with a view to the Washington Monument.
512FavoriteMomentsexhibit of collected artifacts, thetheater hosts some of the most cel-ebrated plays from Lincoln’s period.See p 56.8 Stroll along the Tidal Basin.This small reservoir adjacent to thePotomac River becomes a sea ofblossoming pink flowers in Marchand April. Pose for a photo in frontof the Jefferson Memorial or grab apaddle boat and hit the water inwarmer months. See p 126.9 Roar right along with thelions, tigers, and bears at theorganic fruits and vegetables, andone-of-a-kind arts and crafts. Seep 101.6 Observe elected officials atwork during a session of Con-gress. Or watch the American legalsystem in action, just a few blocksaway, at the United States SupremeCourt. See p 29.7 Take in a show at the reno-vated Ford’s Theatre. The historicsite is a living memorial to PresidentAbraham Lincoln, who was assassi-nated there in 1865. Along with anThe White House.Eastern Market.
612FavoriteMoments! Wander the marble halls ofthe National Gallery of Art. FromRothko to Rembrandt, the museumshowcases some of the very bestart and sculpture in the city. Take intraditional works in the West build-ing, then head to I. M. Pei’s EastWing for more contemporary clas-sics. See p 60.@ Romance your significantother over a prime bottle of wineat 1789. The crackling fire and softlighting at this tony New Americanrestaurant has warded off many achill on a Georgetown evening. Seep 141.•National Zoo. Then visit the famousgiant pandas and elephant house.And don’t miss the petting zoo orthe nearby “pizza” playground forvery young children. See p 48.0 Bask in history amid George-town’s massive mansions. Mostare at least 100 years old; manywere built several centuries ago. InGeorgian and Federal styles, theybear grand architectural details—such as round rooms and circularcentral staircases—that have all butdisappeared from modern struc-tures. See p 90.D.C. is another world in late March and April, when its ubiqui-tous Japanese cherry trees, a gift from the city of Tokyo in 1912,burst into bloom. Even politicians lose their pallor amid the cloudsof pink flowers along the Tidal Basin. The National Cherry Blos-som Festival (y 844/44-BLOOM [442-5666]; www.nationalcherryblossomfestival.org) includes a crew race, fireworks, a dinnercruise, a Japanese street fair, and more.Think PinkJoggers on the National Mall.
1 The Best Full-DayTours
8TheBestFull-DayToursThe Best of D.C. in One DayPrevious page: The Library of Congress.501139539539539550ALT1MMMMMMMMMMMMMTidalBasinCapitolReflectingPoolReflectingPoolPotomacRiverConstitutionGardensLakeFoggyBottom–GWUFarragutWestUnionStationJudiciarySqGalleryPl–ChinatownArchives–NavyMem’l–PennQuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenterSWCapitolSouthMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianMcPhersonSquareNorthCapitolSt. SouthCapitolSt.PennsylvaniaAve.NWPennsylvaniaAve.NW18thSt.NWISt.NWISt.NWISt.NW23rdSt.NW14thSt.NW 14thSt.SW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW12thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWGSt.NWHSt.NWHSt.NWVirginiaAve.NWCSt.NWConstitutionAve.NWConstitutionAve.NWFSt.NWESt.NWESt.NWESt.Expwy.17thSt.NW15thSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWNewYorkAve.NWConstitutionAve.NWFSt.NWFSt.NWESt.NWDSt.NWDSt.NWCSt.NWMadisonDr.NW1stSt.NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NW2ndSt.NW 2ndSt.SW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SWNew Jersey Ave. NWGSt.NWGSt.NWMassachusettsAve.NWHSt.NWHSt.NWCSt.NECSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NEOhioDr. SWIndependenceAve.SWJeffersonDr.SWIndependenceAve.SWESt.SWGSt.SWCSt.SWDSt.SWDSt.SWWashingtonAve.SWIndependenceAve.SWIndependenceAve.SWPennsylvaniaAve.NWColumbusCircleNATIONALMALLConstitutionGardensWESTPOTOMACPARKTheEllipseSculptureGardenLafayetteSquareUnionStationPlazaCherryTreesCherryTreesJohnMarshallParkLincolnMemorialWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialCapitolGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYPENNQUARTERFEDERALTRIANGLEFOGGYBOTTOMNOMAMaineAve.SW7thSt.SWTidalBasinCapitolReflectingPoolReflectingPoolPotomacRiverConstitutionGardensLakeFoggyBottom–GWUFarragutWestUnionStationJudiciarySqGalleryPl–ChinatownArchives–NavyMem’l–PennQuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenterSWCapitolSouthMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianMcPhersonSquareNorthCapitolSt. SouthCapitolSt.PennsylvaniaAve.NWPennsylvaniaAve.NW18thSt.NWISt.NWISt.NWISt.NW23rdSt.NW14thSt.NW 14thSt.SW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW12thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWGSt.NWHSt.NWHSt.NWVirginiaAve.NWCSt.NWConstitutionAve.NWConstitutionAve.NWFSt.NWESt.NWESt.NWESt.Expwy.17thSt.NW15thSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWNewYorkAve.NWConstitutionAve.NWFSt.NWFSt.NWESt.NWDSt.NWDSt.NWCSt.NWMadisonDr.NW1stSt.NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NW2ndSt.NW 2ndSt.SW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW7thSt.SW10thSt.SWNew Jersey Ave. NWGSt.NWGSt.NWMassachusettsAve.NWHSt.NWHSt.NWCSt.NECSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NEOhioDr. SWIndependenceAve.SWJeffersonDr.SWIndependenceAve.SWESt.SWGSt.SWCSt.SWDSt.SWDSt.SWWashingtonAve.SWIndependenceAve.SWIndependenceAve.SWMaineAve.SWPennsylvaniaAve.NWColumbusCircleNATIONALMALLConstitutionGardensWESTPOTOMACPARKTheEllipseSculptureGardenLafayetteSquareUnionStationPlazaCherryTreesCherryTreesJohnMarshallParkLincolnMemorialWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialCapitolGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYPENNQUARTERFEDERALTRIANGLEFOGGYBOTTOMNOMA9121311867234511012345679121311108LincolnMemorialVietnamVeteransMemorialWashingtonMonumentNationalWorldWarIIMemorialKoreanWarVeteransMemorialMartinLutherKing,Jr.MemorialFDRMemorialJeffersonMemorialPavilionCaféNationalGalleryofArtNationalMuseumofAmericanHistoryTheSourceOfftheRecordBar1/4mi000.25km
9TheBestofD.C.inOneDayTravel TipI recommend exploring D.C. onfoot, but those who can’t mightconsider D.C. Tours (y 888-878-9870; www.dctours.us). Its red,white, and blue double-deckersightseeing buses travel around thecity and allow you to hop on or offat various stops. Buses leave every20–30 minutes. One fare is good forthe day ($30 for passengers 16 andup; $15 for kids 5–15; free for under5). National Park Service rangers areon duty at the following monumentsdaily 9:30am–11:30pm. TheNational Mall Shuttle (y 202/289-1995; www.graylinedc.com)runs in a loop from Union Station tothe World War II Memorial, andaround many historical Mall sites.The cost is $5 per boarding.This full-day tour guides you through the Mall andGeorgetown, the two parts of the District you must explorebefore leaving town, despite the fact that Georgetown is slightly offthe public transportation grid. Both attract visitors in droves for goodreason, so don’t feel like a lemming if you end up trailing kids inmatching T-shirts as you explore the Mall’s free monuments andmuseums and the cobblestone sidewalks of M Street in Georgetown.START: Metro to Foggy Bottom, then a 30-minute walk1 ★★★ Lincoln Memorial. Startyour day on the steps of this iconictribute to Abraham Lincoln, thebeloved 16th president of the UnitedStates. Architect Henry Bacondesigned this marble, Greek temple–inspired memorial in 1914. Its 36Doric columns reflect the states ofthe Union at the time of Lincoln’sassassination in 1865—days afterthe Southern states surrendered inthe Civil War. Daniel Chester Frenchdesigned the nearly 20-foot-tall (6m)sculpture of Lincoln, seated in sol-emn repose, surrounded by inscrip-tions of his immortal words from theGettysburg address and his secondinaugural address. You’ll likely feelchills while gazing across the Malland contemplating Lincoln’s “dedica-tion to the proposition that all menare created equal.” @ 30 min. y 202/426-6841. www.nps.gov/linc. Freeadmission. Metro: See start, above.2 ★★★ Vietnam VeteransMemorial. In Constitution Gar-dens, “The Wall” honors the 58,000servicemen and -women who per-ished or disappeared during theVietnam War. Two black slabs ofgranite seem to grow from the earthtoward each other, joining to form awide “V.” Designed in 1980 by MayaYing Lin, then an undergraduate atYale, it has been likened to a “scar inthe earth,” evoking the deep rift thewar created among Americans. TheThe Lincoln Memorial.
10TheBestFull-DayToursPresident George Washington. Theworld’s tallest masonry structurewhen it was built in 1884, it’s visiblefrom points throughout the city. Themonument itself and its observa-tory, with its breathtaking views ofthe city, closed due to damagecaused by the August 2011 earth-quake and are not scheduled toreopen until late 2013. @ 20 min.y 202/426-6841. www.nps.gov/wamo. Free admission. Metro:Smithsonian, then a 10-min. walk.4 National World War IIMemorial. After controversybetween activists demanding a trib-ute to “the greatest generation”that fought and died in World War II,and naysayers who didn’t want theMall altered, this serene memorialwas completed in 2004—withoutobstructing the views of the LincolnMemorial or Washington Monu-ment. Built of bronze and granite, itfeatures 56 pillars that representthe unity of the states and territo-ries in their decision to enter thewar. The 4,000 sculpted gold starson the Freedom Wall signify thenames of the dead and missing areinscribed in the reflective stone. Inreverent silence, mourning familiesmake rubbings and leave flowers fortheir late sons, daughters, brothers,sisters, husbands, and wives. @ 20min. y 202/426-6841. www.nps.gov/vive. Free admission. Metro:Foggy Bottom, then a 25-min. walk.3 Washington Monument.Robert Mills designed this 555-foot-tall (169m) monument to honorThe Vietnam Veterans Memorial.The Washington Monument.
11TheBestofD.C.inOneDay7 FDR Memorial. This 71⁄2-acre(3-hectare) outdoor memorial withfour outdoor rooms, or galleries,celebrates the man who saw theU.S. through the Great Depressionand much of World War II. Designedby Lawrence Halprin in 1978 (andcompleted in 1997), it tells the storyof Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s four-term presidency: Each gallery repre-sents the challenges of the time andshowcases FDR’s most famousquotes alongside sculptures of souplines, the president in his wheel-chair, his passionately political wifeEleanor, and more. @ 20 min.y 202/426-6841. www.nps.gov/frde. Free admission. Metro: Smith-sonian, then a 30-min. walk.8 ★★★ Jefferson Memorial.Modeled after the Pantheon inRome, this circular colonnaded struc-ture fronts the picturesque TidalBasin—which is lined with cherrytrees that burst into rosy color fromlate March through mid-April. Archi-tect John Russell drew from ThomasJefferson’s love of neoclassicaldesign to celebrate the third presi-dent’s contributions as a scientist,architect, politician, musician, diplo-mat, and inventor. Dedicated in1943, it features a 19-foot-tall (5.7m)bronze statue of Jefferson inside.@ 20 min. y 202/426-6841. www.nps.gov/thje. Free admission. Metro:Smithsonian, then a 25-min. walk.400,000 Americans who died fight-ing between 1941 and 1945. @ 20min. y 202/619-7222. www.nps.gov/nwwm. Free admission. Metro:Farragut West, Federal Triangle, orSmithsonian, with a 25-min. walk.5 Korean War VeteransMemorial. This representation of19 larger-than-life ground soldiersslogging through a field, dressed inidentical flowing rain capes, hel-mets, and battle gear, is haunting.Completed in 1986, it reminds view-ers of a war forgotten by many, andhonors the men and women whogave their lives for it. @ 20 min.y 202/426-6841. www.nps.gov/kowa. Free admission. Metro: FoggyBottom, then a 30-min. walk.6 Martin Luther King, Jr.Memorial. This relatively newmonument, completed in August2011, is a tribute to the Civil Rightsleader who made his famous “I Havea Dream” speech on the steps of theLincoln Memorial in 1963. A 30-foot-tall (9m) relief of King called the“Stone of Hope” is found just pasttwo other pieces of granite knownas the “Mountain of Despair,” avisual metaphor for the strugglesKing encountered during his life-time. @ 20 min. y 202/426-6841.www.nps.gov/mlkm. Free admission.Metro: Smithsonian, then a 20-min.walk.The Korean War Veterans Memorial.
12TheBestFull-DayToursIt’s tough to know where to find aquick bite to eat amid so many muse-ums and government buildings. The9=Pavilion Café, in theNational Gallery of Art Sculpture Gar-den, has a solid menu of salads, sand-wiches, espresso drinks, and bakedgoods. Dine outdoors on warm days,or gaze out at the ice-skating rink inwinter. 9th St. and Constitution Ave.NW.@ 45 min. y 202/289-3360. $.Metro: Archives, Judiciary Square, orSmithsonian.Johns, and Pollock, to name a few.Art lovers may want to reserve awhole day to wander these halls.Everyone else should allot 2 hours.@ 2 hr. See p 60 for service details.! ★★ National Museum ofAmerican History. Want to seethe original Kermit the Frog handpuppet? How about Dorothy’s rubyred slippers, Archie Bunker’s chair,or Muhammad Ali’s boxing gloves?America’s history is told through itsobjects, art, advertising, communi-cations, and popular culture at thisbeloved museum. The Star-Span-gled Banner, the flag that inspiredthe national anthem, has beenrecently restored and is nowhoused in a dramatic new galleryand atrium dedicated to itspreservation. Julia Child’skitchen; a 1903 Winton(the first car drivenacross the UnitedStates); and 14 dressesfrom First Ladies includ-ing Laura Bush, JackieKennedy, and MichelleObama are just a fewmore of the objects0 ★★★ National Gal-lery of Art. If you visitonly one of the city’s freeart museums, make it thisone. Founded in 1937,the museum has a perma-nent collection that spans 9centuries of masterworks:early Italian and FlemishRenaissance paintings, includ-ing the single Leonardo da Vincipainting in the U.S.; the HighRenaissance works of Titian; theDutch interiors of Vermeer; the pre-Impressionist and Impressionistworks of Monet, Manet, van Gogh,Degas, Toulouse-Lautrec, Gauguin,and Cézanne; and the modern mas-terpieces of Picasso, O’Keeffe,Edgar Degas’ Little DancerAged 14, at the NationalGallery.As you wander among the monuments, memorials, and muse-ums, you can’t help but notice the U.S. Capitol Building (see p 28)at the eastern end of the Mall; the Federal Reserve Building onConstitution Avenue, almost directly across from the Vietnam Veter-ans Memorial; and the White House, behind its imposing wrought-iron fence, at 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. The new Capitol VisitorsCenter (p 28) features an exhibit hall and detailed tour information.The White House Visitor Center, at 15th and E streets, offers moredetails and a 30-minute video. See “Political Washington” on p 28 formore information.The Washington Skyline
13No visit to D.C. would be completewithout a stop at the legendarydrinking establishment #Off theRecord Bar in the historic Hay-Adams Hotel, across Lafayette Parkfrom the White House. The bar is afavorite place to see and be seen inthe District and a haunt of journal-ists, lobbyists, politicians, andstatesmen—some of whom justmight be pictured in the dozensof political caricatures on display.See p 151.TheBestofD.C.inOneDayAfter touring the Mall, head justnorth to the Newseum, where you’llfind @The Source, the sleek,glass-walled restaurant of celebritychef Wolfgang Puck. An Americanmenu with an Asian twist featuressushi, Chinese duckling, and Ameri-can seafood and steak. See p 141.on display here. If you wish to spendan afternoon or a full day here, seethe museum tour in chapter 3. @ 1hr. See p 68.The Capitol Building.Muhammad Ali’s boxing gloves, at the National Museum of American History.
15TheBestofD.C.inTwoDaysBegin your second day at the National Zoo—home to giantpandas, lions, tigers, elephants, and other rare species. If youset out early enough (the zoo grounds open at 8:30am), you’ll havetime left to explore Capitol Hill—from the bustle of Eastern Market tothe hustle of lawmakers and judges in the U.S. Capitol and SupremeCourt buildings, both open for tours and spectators. START: Metro toWoodley Park–Zoo1 ★★★ =National Zoologi-cal Park. The giant pandas are themain attraction at this 163-acre(66-hectare) park in downtown D.C.You won’t need tickets to catch aglimpse of any of these rare crea-tures, but crowds regularly flock tosee the pandas romp through theirenclosure and eat frozen treats, sobe sure to get there early if seeingthe bears is a priority. Established in1889, the National Zoo is home tosome 500 species, many of themrare and/or endangered. You’ll seecheetahs, zebras, camels, gorillas,hippos, seals, monkeys, meerkats,and, of course, lions, tigers, and(other) bears. If you have veryyoung children, the hilly terrain canbe tiring, especially on hot days. Thezoo rents strollers, and the Kids’Farm provides a nice break from allthat walking. Children 3 to 8 canobserve farm animals up close:ducks, chickens, goats, cows, andminiature donkeys. @ 60–90 min.Start: 8:30am and allow 20 min. forMetro to next tour stop. 3001 Con-necticut Ave. NW, adjacent to RockCreek Park. y 202/633-4888. www.nationalzoo.si.edu. Free admission.Daily Apr–Oct (weather permitting):The Panda House, at the National Zoo.Big cats at the National Zoo.
16TheBestFull-DayToursNeed a quick coffee or snack? Lookfor one of the three year-round eat-eries on zoo grounds: the ManeRestaurant on Lion/Tiger Hill,Panda Café near the Giant PandaHabitat, or Panda Plaza Grill nearthe Panda Gift Shop. PopStop,across from the Small MammalHouse, is seasonal. Vendingmachines are positioned near rest-room and information facilitiesthroughout the park.Emancipation Proclamation, Articlesof Confederation, Edison’s light bulbpatent, and letters from AbrahamLincoln can also be ogled at in thismonument to history. @ 1 hr: Start10am. One-hour guided tours areavailable Mon–Fri 9:45am. Reserva-tions for self-guided tours areencouraged. 700 Pennsylvania Ave.NW. www.archives.gov. Mar 15 toLabor Day Mon–Fri 10am–7pm; Dayafter Labor Day to Mar 14 Mon–Fri10am–5:30pm. Closed Thanksgivingand Dec 25. Metro: Archives/NavyMemorial.3 ★★ Eastern Market. Built in1873, this city institution is a fleamarket, farmer’s market, and craftsfair all rolled into one. Rechargeover lattes, pancakes, muffins,omelets, or even ham sandwichesand salt-and-vinegar chips herebefore you shop. The outdoor lotfills on weekends (Mar–Dec) withfarmers and fresh produce, artisansand ceramics, and bargain-huntershaggling over a mishmash ofantiques. @ 1 hr. See p 101 for ser-vice details.4 Library of Congress. Wantto see the original “rough draft” ofthe Declaration of Independencewritten in Thomas Jefferson’s owngrounds 8:30am–7pm; animal build-ings 10am–6pm. Daily Nov-Margrounds 8:30am–7pm; animal build-ings 10am–4:30pm. Metro: WoodleyPark–Zoo/Adams Morgan or Cleve-land Park.The original Declaration of Independence, at the National Archives.2 ★★ National Archives. Afterthe Zoo, return to the Metro andhead for the National Mall whereyou’ll find, among the Smithsonianmuseums, some of the most impor-tant historical documents in U.S. his-tory. The original Declaration ofIndependence, signed by membersof Congress; the Constitution; theBill of Rights; and other fascinatingglimpses into America’s past are ondisplay in the Rotunda of theNational Archives Building. The
17TipYou can find complete coverage ofhow to view the House or Senategalleries in session in “PoliticalWashington” (see p 28).TheBestofD.C.inTwoDayshand? This American treasure ishere, along with the papers of otherpresidents, historic maps, revolvingexhibitions, and multimediaresources. Created in 1800, thesmall library was burned by the Brit-ish in 1814 during their infamoussiege on Washington, but it wasquickly re-established once Jeffer-son donated his personal collectionof books and artifacts. @ 1 hr.;arrive 30 min. before tour begins.Docent-led, scheduled public toursdepart Mon–Sat, in the Great Hall ofthe Thomas Jefferson Building, at10:30, 11:30am; 1:30, 2:30, and3:30pm. No 3:30pm tour on Sat. 1stSt. SE (btw. Independence Ave. andE. Capitol St). www.loc.gov. Mon–Sat8:30am–4:30pm, except for federalholidays. Metro: Capitol South orUnion Station.5 ★★★ U.S. Capitol Building.This majestic, 19th-century neoclas-sical landmark has served as theThe Reading Room at the Library ofCongress.seat of American lawmaking sincethe first Congress in 1800. In 1793,George Washington laid the corner-stone of Dr. William Thornton’s origi-nal design, and various architectssaw to the building’s completion in1819. A museum of American artand history, as well as its principalcivic forum, the Capitol is worth astop just to see its architecture andhundreds of paintings, sculptures,and other artworks throughout its17-acre (6.8-hectare) floor area.Tours can be arranged at the newCapitol Visitor Center (y 202/226-8000; Mon–Sat 8:30am–4:30pmexcept Thanksgiving, Dec 25, andJan 1), whose exhibition hall fea-tures the original plaster cast of theStatue of Freedom, the bronzestatue that stands atop the Capitoldome, as well as 24 sculptures fromthe Capitol’s Statuary Hall depictingeach state’s favorite sons anddaughters. Visiting the CVC and theCapitol are free, and you can pre-order Capitol tour tickets online. Allfood, beverages, large bags, andpointed objects are prohibited. @ 1hr. Entrance at the Capitol VisitorCenter on E. Capitol St. at 1st St.NW. y 202/226-8000. www.visitthecapitol.gov. Metro: Capitol South orUnion Station.6 ★★ Supreme Court. Thechamber of the U.S. Supreme Court,the highest tribunal in the land, hasbeen restored to its mid-19th-cen-tury appearance. Its nine justices,appointed for life terms, decide ourcollective fate—whether they’reweighing in on federal laws or, morerarely, sealing a contested presidential
18take in one of the dozens of eventsheld on the Mall through the year—from kite-flying festivals to interna-tional dance performances. (Visitwww.nps.gov/mall for a schedule.)Otherwise, take shelter at UnionStation (Columbus Circle at Massa-chusetts Ave. and 1st St. NE), just afew blocks north, where you’ll findsnacks, coffee, shopping, and stun-ning architecture—plus the Metro,for transportation to your next stop.Oenophiles and fans of simply pre-pared, New American fare willadore 8★ Sonoma Restaurantand Wine Bar. With 40-plus winesby the glass, plus a lovingly editedwine list of some 200 Italian andFrench bottles, this upscale butcasual bistro is the perfect place tosit and unwind after a long day ofsightseeing. Airy and elegant,Sonoma serves “small plates” infour food groupings: cheeses andcharcuterie, handmade pasta andpizzas, wood-grilled meats and fish,and organic salads and produce.Book your table in advance to beguaranteed an evening at this ever-popular hot spot. Tip: If you plan tosee a show after dinner, make anearly reservation and tell yourTheBestFull-DayToursYou have an hour or two before din-ner and don’t want to spoil it. If theweather is warm, grab a soda andsnack at any of the many vendorcarts stationed on the 7 Mall.Then, either relax on the grass andpeople-watch, stroll and admire thesights, check out a monument, orThe Supreme Court.election. The Court convenes thefirst Monday in October and stays insession until it has heard all its casesand handed down decisions. TheCourt hears oral arguments the first2 weeks of each month on Monday,Tuesday, and Wednesday. Visitorscan listen to the arguments on shorttours, or they can watch the day’sentire proceedings. @ 1–2 hr.; linescan be long, so be prepared to waitfor up to 1 hr. If you’re a legal eagleor Court TV fanatic and absolutelymust see the day’s full proceedings,arrive by 8:30am and get in lineearly, for first-come, first-served seat-ing. Everyone else can start at 2pmor 3pm and gain entry with time tospare. 1st St. NE (btw. E. Capitol St.and Maryland Ave. NE). y 202/479-3211. www.supremecourtus.gov.Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm, except for federal holidays.Metro: Capitol South or UnionStation.
19server what time you need thecheck. 223 Pennsylvania Ave. SE.y 202/544-8088. www.sonomadc.com. Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner daily.Metro: Capitol South.TheBestofD.C.inTwoDaysand nationally known actors. Juststeps from the Verizon Center, thisstate-of-the-art theater doesn’t havea bad seat in the house, and oftenfeatures Shakespeare with a twist,such as an all-male cast or moderncostumes. 450 7th St. NW (btw. Dand E sts.). y 202/547-1122. www.shakespearedc.org. Tickets $23–$68.Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown orArchives/Navy Memorial.Sports on the Mall.At Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar, more than 40 vintages are offered by the glass.9 ★★ Shakespeare Theatre.Catch the Bard’s best, from A Mid-summer’s Night’s Dream to Othello,in productions with astounding sets
20TheBestFull-DayToursThe Best of D.C. in Three DaysU.S. NAVALOBSERVATORY29MMMMMMTheodoreRooseveltIslandGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYTo ArlingtonCemeteryTheodoreRoosevelt Mem. BridgeFrancisScottKeyBridgeWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleKaloramaCircleTenleyCircleFoundryBranchRockCreekPotomac RiverRock CreekRockCreekBroadBranchConstitution Ave. NWNebraskaAve.NWChesapeake St. NWBrandywine St. NWAlbemarle St. NWIdahoAve.NW34thSt.NWWisconsinAve.NWConnecticutAve.NWVan Ness St. NWBeachDr.NWClevelandAve.NWSt. NWMassachusettsAve. NWCalvertWisconsinAve.NWRock Cr. andWisconsinAve.NWS St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWP St. NW16thSt.NWNewHampshireAve.NWMassachusettsAve. NWPennsylvaniaAve. NWK St. NWFloridaAve. NWColumbiaRd. NWWhitehurst Fwy.M St. NW28thSt.NW30thSt.NWPotomacPkwy.ColoradoAve.NWParkRd. NWUpshur St. NWMorrowDr.RossDr.GloverRd.NWTilden St. NWBroad BranchRd.NWWoodley Rd. NWConnecticutAve.NWCanal Rd. NWVan Ness/UDCClevelandParkDupontCircleFarragutNorthWoodley Park–Zoo/Adams MorganTenleytown/AUROCK CREEK PARKWHITEHAVEN PARKGLOVERARCHBOLDPARKFORT RENOPARKKlingleMansionWhiteHouseKennedyCenterVisitorInformation CenterBoxOfficeCarter BarronAmphitheaterHorseCenterPark PoliSubstatioTennisTennisNATIONALZOOLOGICALPARKV I R G I N I AGEORGETOWNADAMSMORGANDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOMEMBASSYROWM St. NWMacomb St. NW19thSt.NW32ndSt.NWR St. NWTheodoreRooseveltIslandGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYTo ArlingtonCemeteryTheodoreRoosevelt Mem. BridgeFrancisScottKeyBridgeWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleKaloramaCircleTenleyCircleFoundryBranchRockCreekPotomac RiverRock CreekRockCreekBroadBranchConstitution Ave. NWNebraskaAve.NWChesapeake St. NWBrandywine St. NWAlbemarle St. NWIdahoAve.NW34thSt.NWWisconsinAve.NWConnecticutAve.NWVan Ness St. NWBeachDr.NWClevelandAve.NWSt. NWMassachusettsAve. NWCalvertWisconsinAve.NWRock Cr. andWisconsinAve.NWS St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWP St. NW16thSt.NW19thSt.NWNewHampshireAve.NWMassachusettsAve. NWPennsylvaniaAve. NWK St. NWFloridaAve. NWColumbiaRd. NWWhitehurst Fwy.M St. NWM St. NW28thSt.NW30thSt.NWPotomacPkwy.ColoradoAve.NWParkRd. NWUpshur St. NWMorrowDr.RossDr.GloverRd.NWTilden St. NWBroad BranchRd.NWWoodley Rd. NW32ndSt.NWConnecticutAve.NWR St. NWCanal Rd. NWMacomb St. NWVan Ness/UDCClevelandParkDupontCircleFarragutNorthWoodley Park–Zoo/Adams MorganTenleytown/AUROCK CREEK PARKWHITEHAVEN PARKGLOVERARCHBOLDPARKFORT RENOPARKKlingleMansionWhiteHouseKennedyCenterVisitorInformation CenterBoxOfficeCarter BarronAmphitheaterHorseCenterPark PoliSubstatioTennisTennisNATIONALZOOLOGICALPARKV I R G I N I AGEORGETOWNADAMSMORGANDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOMEMBASSYROW257143896245673891 Kramerbooks &Afterwords CaféWashington National CathedralCafé DeluxeR Street in GeorgetownDumbarton OaksAntique RowCorner of Wisconsin Avenueand M StreetSequoiaFilomena Ristorante1/2 mi00 0.5 km
21TheBestofD.C.inThreeDaysOn your third day, leave the downtown crowds behindand explore Dupont Circle and the National Cathedral. Thenspend a leisurely afternoon browsing, spending some dosh, and sip-ping espressos in Georgetown. By the end of the day, you’ll feel asthough you know Washington—and chances are you won’t want toleave. START: Metro to Dupont Circle1 ★★ Kramerbooks & After-words Café. This bookstore, grill,and coffee shop is the nerve centerof Dupont Circle. A legendary gath-ering place, it’s always packed withcool college kids, stylish gay men,voracious readers, debating politi-cians, and curious tourists who feelthe urge to pick up a copy of WaltWhitman’s Leaves of Grass. Openearly in the morning and late atnight, it’s the perfect spot to startthe day, over breakfast and theWashington Post. @ 1 hr. Start:8:30am. 1517 Connecticut Ave. NW(btw. Dupont Circle and Q St.).y 202/387-3825. www.kramers.com.Breakfast $6.25–$9.75; lunch $8.25–$13; dinner $11–$18. Daily 7:30am–1am. Metro: See start, above.2 ★★★ Washington NationalCathedral. This glorious cathedral,the world’s sixth largest, is wherepresidents are eulogized and some-times interred, and where many amember of high society is wed. Withvaulted ceilings and rich stone carv-ings, the English Gothic architectureincorporates stones from shrinesand historic buildings around the uni-verse. That’s right: A piece of lunarrock from the Apollo XI mission isembedded in the stained-glass SpaceWindow. It’s a big hit with kids, as isKramerbooks & Afterwords Café, inDupont Circle.Dumbarton Oaks.
22Airy and bright, 3★★ =CaféDeluxe is a bustling neighborhoodbistro that serves New Americanclassics such as roasted chicken,tuna steaks, and burgers. With smallportions and crayons for kids, this isa favorite among families. See p 136.TheBestFull-DayToursintersection of Wisconsin and Cal-vert. Taxis are also plentiful on thismain drag.4 R Street in Georgetown.With its four- and five-story brick Fed-eral- and Georgian-style mansions, itsprivate gardens rife with red tulipsand pale pink hydrangeas, and itsuniform row houses and manicuredlawns, this street epitomizes residen-tial Georgetown. Simply put, R Streetbetween Wisconsin Avenue and 28thStreet NW is where most Washing-tonians would choose to live ifmoney were no object. It is alsohome to a spectacular botanicalgarden; a historic park; meanderingtrails with romantic benches andweeping willow trees; and a grand,peaceful cemetery. @ 2 hr. Metro toTenleytown/AU, then take any 30series bus (31, 32, 36, or 37) goingsouth on Wisconsin Ave.5 Dumbarton Oaks. Once a pri-vate residence, this 19th-centurymansion is a research center forstudies in Byzantine and pre-Colum-bian art and history, as well as land-scape architecture. A former cowpasture, the grounds of DumbartonOaks were fashioned into stagger-ingly beautiful traditional Europeangardens—with an orangery and cro-cus, scilla, narcissus, magnolia, andcherry blossoms. Walkways arelined with bubbling fountains, stonearchways, romantic hideaways, tiledpools, and a Roman-style amphithe-ater. The gardens remain open year-round, weather permitting (Apr–Mayare peak months). @ 30 min. 170332nd St. NW (garden entrance at31st and R sts.). y 202/339-6401.www.doaks.org. Gardens: $8 adults;$5 kids and seniors. Tues–Sun year-round; Mar 15–Oct 31 2–6pm, Nov1–Mar 14 2–5pm (except nationalholidays and Dec 24). Metro to Ten-leytown/AU, then take any 30 seriesbus (31, 32, 36, or 37) going southon Wisconsin Ave.the Darth Vader gargoyle hiddenamong the spires. Episcopalian, thechurch has no local congregation;rather, it has functioned as a nationalhouse of prayer for those of variousdenominations, including Jewish andSerbian Orthodox citizens. (Down-load your own self-guided tour atwww.cathedral.org.) @ 1 hr. Start:11am. Massachusetts and Wisconsinaves. NW. y 202/537-6200. Sug-gested donation $10 for adults and$5 for children and seniors. Mon–Fri10am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–4:30pm;Sun 8am–6:30pm. Metro to Tenley-town/AU, then take any 30 series bus(31, 32, 36, or 37) going south on Wis-consin Ave.Washington National Cathedral.In pleasant weather, walkers willenjoy the roughly 20-minute downhillstroll to R Street, the next tour stop.Everyone else can take the no. 31,32, 36, or 37 bus lines in front of theRussian Embassy at 2650 WisconsinAve. NW, about a block north of the
23TheBestofD.C.inThreeDaysStroll the promenade, gaze at theboats slicing through the waves ofthe Potomac, and then order a cock-tail or a cold beer at 8 Sequoia—you deserve to sit down and relax.But don’t snack: Save room for agreat meal back towards M Street.3000 K St. NW (waterfront). y 202/944-4200. Cocktails $7–$10. Lunch &dinner daily. Metro: Foggy Bottom.Metro to Tenleytown/AU, then takeany 30 series bus (31, 32, 36, or 37)going south on Wisconsin Ave.7 ★★ Corner of WisconsinAvenue and M Street. Lookdown M Street and you’ll spy Inter-mix, Coach, Lacoste, Sephora, KateSpade, and the new design district,Cady’s Alley. Look up Wisconsin andsee Benetton, Ralph Lauren, theApple Store, Baby Gap, Sugar,Urban Chic, and a slew of antiquesstores. It could be an expensiveafternoon. When you’re all shoppedout, walk south, downhill, on Wis-consin Avenue. It will deliver youto Washington Harbour and thePotomac River. @ 11⁄2 hr. Metro toTenleytown/AU, then take any 30series bus (31, 32, 36, or 37) goingsouth on Wisconsin Ave.6 Antique Row. Depending onwhich way you’re walking, AntiqueRow is either a cool cruise downhillor a steep uphill climb. In either case,antiques lovers won’t care—they’llbe too busy gaping at storefront dis-plays of mint condition 18th-centurydivans, beautifully painted Persianconsoles, weathered ceramic waterjugs, and all sorts of one-of-a-kindfinds. The best of the lot: CarlingNichols, Blair House, David Bell, andfor early-20th-century fans, RandomHarvest. Bring your black Amex cardfor this shopping stroll—prices arethat steep. @ 45 min. Start: 3:45pm.Wisconsin Ave., from S to N sts.The Samuel Francis Dupont Memorial.An antiques store on Wisconsin Avenue in Georgetown.
24TheBestFull-DayTourshandmade pasta upstairs. The bowlsof handmade pasta are recom-mended for those who want a trueItalian meal. It’s casual enough thatyou won’t need to dress up for din-ner, but elegant enough that youshouldn’t wear shorts. Come hungry:Portions are nearly enough for two.Book your table in advance, especiallyon weekend nights. See p 138.•Washington Harbour has loads ofrestaurants, but nothing beats9★★ Filomena Ristorante, afunky Italian restaurant a short walkfrom the waterfront. The interior isadorned with tacky decorations, doi-lies, and a zany assortment of sea-sonal items, but the wine list is greatand so is the traditional Italian feel,right down to the cook rollingArlington National Cemetery’s 612 acres (248 hectares) honorsnational heroes and more than 260,000 war dead, veterans, anddependents. Many famous Arlington graves bear nothing more thansimple markers, such as five-star General John J. Pershing’s tomb. High-lights include the Tomb of the Unknowns, containing the unidenti-fied remains of service members from World Wars I and II and theKorean War. Arlington House (y 703/235-1530; www.nps.gov/arho), built by Martha and George Washington’s grandson, GeorgeWashington Parke Custis, is a 20-minute walk from the Visitor Center.Pierre Charles L’Enfant’s grave, near Arlington House, is believed toafford the best view of Washington, the city he designed. Below Arling-ton House is the gravesite of John Fitzgerald Kennedy. JacquelineKennedy Onassis rests next to her husband, and Robert Kennedy isburied close by. Arrive close to 8am to contemplate the site quietly.The Visitor Center offers a detailed map and restrooms.Side Trip to Arlington: Paying RespectsTombstones at Arlington National Cemetery.
2 The Best Special-Interest Tours
26TheBestSpecial-InterestTours295011666639550ALT29MMMMMSee inset,above rightSee “Map of thePolitical Stars”Tidal BasinReflecting PoolRock CreekPotomacRiverConstitutionGardens LakeFoggy Bottom–GWUFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleMcPhersonSquareWashingtonBlvd.K St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NWM St. NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWPennsylvania Ave. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NWNWI St. NWI St. NWQ St. NWO St. NWN St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW22ndSt.NW23rdSt.NW21stSt.NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwyNW.WAve. NWS St. NWR St. NWRd.U St. NWRhode IslandL St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW14thSt.SWVermontCalifornia St. NWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWH St . NWVirginiaAve. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NWD St. NW17thSt.NW15thSt.NWFlorida Ave.28thSt.NW29thSt.NWCalifornia St. NWG St. NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWColumbiaRMassachusettsAve. NWOhioDr.SWIndependence Ave. SWSt.NWS St. NWConnecticutAve.NWKaloramaRd.FloridaAve.NWIndependence Ave. SWIndependence Ave. SWMaineAve.SWMassachusettsAve.NWScott CircleThomasCircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleTheodoreRooseveltMemorialBridgeArlington MemorialBridgeROCK CREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYConstitution GardensWESTPOTOMACPARKTheEllipseLafayetteSquareLADY BIRDJOHNSONPARKCherry TreesCherryTreesKennedyCenterWatergateLincolnMemorialWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialKorean War VeteransMemorialFDRMemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYGeorge MasonMemorialDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOMGEORGETOWNSSYROWV I R G I N I ATidal BasinReflecting PoolRock CreekPotomacRiverConstitutionGardens LakeFoggy Bottom–GWUFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleMcPhersonSquareWashingtonBlvd.K St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NWM St. NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWPennsylvania Ave. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NWNWI St. NWI St. NWQ St. NWO St. NWN St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW22ndSt.NW23rdSt.NW21stSt.NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwyNW.WAve. NWS St. NWR St. NWRd.U St. NWRhode IslandL St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW14thSt.SWVermontCalifornia St. NWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWH St . NWVirginiaAve. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NWD St. NW17thSt.NW15thSt.NWFlorida Ave.28thSt.NW29thSt.NWCalifornia St. NWG St. NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWColumbiaRMassachusettsAve. NWOhioDr.SWIndependence Ave. SWSt.NWS St. NWConnecticutAve.NWKaloramaRd.FloridaAve.NWIndependence Ave. SWIndependence Ave. SWMaineAve.SWMassachusettsAve.NWScott CircleThomasCircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleTheodoreRooseveltMemorialBridgeArlington MemorialBridgeROCK CREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYConstitution GardensWESTPOTOMACPARKTheEllipseLafayetteSquareLADY BIRDJOHNSONPARKCherry TreesCherryTreesKennedyCenterWatergateLincolnMemorialWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialKorean War VeteransMemorialFDRMemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYGeorge MasonMemorialDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOMGEORGETOWNSSYROWV I R G I N I A798111031 52467891011U.S. Capitol BuildingSupreme CourtBullfeathersInternational Spy MuseumFBINational ArchivesWhite HousePost PubWatergate ComplexMap of thePolitical StarsPentagonPolitical WashingtonPrevious page: The Ford’s Theatre booth in which Lincoln was shot.
27PoliticalWashington39539539569529292911501MMMMMMMMMMMM MMWashingtonChannelCapitolReflectingPoolU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterUnionStationJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWCapitol SouthMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianShaw–Howard U.New York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UNorthCapitolSt.NorthCapitolSt.SouthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.K St. NWU St. NWRhode Island Ave. NWAve. NWM St. NWL St. NWL St. NW L St. NEV St. NWU St. NWU St. NWT St. NWT St. NWS St. NWS St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWO St. NWO St. NWN St. NWFloridaAve. NW12thSt.NW10thSt.NWAve.NW9thSt.NW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW7thSt.NW6thSt.NW5thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW4thSt.NW3rdSt.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW11thSt.NW10thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWP St. NWConstitution Ave. NWNewYork Ave. NWNew York Ave. NWK St. NW K St. NEConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW1stSt.NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NW2ndSt.NW2ndSt.SW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SW1stSt.NW2ndSt.NW4thSt.NW5thSt.NWNewJerseyAve.NWG St. NWLincolnRd.NEMassachusettsAve.NW2ndSt.NEH St. NEH St. NWH St. NWD St. NEC St. NEDelawareAve.NEMarylandAve. NEC St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NENewJerseyAve.SEJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWC St. SWD St. SWD St. SWWashingtonAve. SWGeorgiaAve.NWMaineAve.SWPennsylvaniaAve.NWSoutheast FreewayMt. VernonSquareColumbusCircleLoganCircleN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenFranklinSquareGarfield ParkUnionStationPlazaJohn MarshallParkCapitolUnionStationWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLENOMACHINATOWNU STREETCORRIDORWashingtonChannelCapitolReflectingPoolU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterUnionStationJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWCapitol SouthMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianShaw–Howard U.New York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UNorthCapitolSt.NorthCapitolSt.SouthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.K St. NWU St. NWRhode Island Ave. NWAve. NWM St. NWL St. NWL St. NW L St. NEV St. NWU St. NWU St. NWT St. NWT St. NWS St. NWS St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWO St. NWO St. NWN St. NWFloridaAve. NW12thSt.NW10thSt.NWAve.NW9thSt.NW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW7thSt.NW6thSt.NW5thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW4thSt.NW3rdSt.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW11thSt.NW10thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWP St. NWConstitution Ave. NWNewYork Ave. NWNew York Ave. NWK St. NW K St. NEConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW1stSt.NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NW2ndSt.NW2ndSt.SW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SW1stSt.NW2ndSt.NW4thSt.NW5thSt.NWNewJerseyAve.NWG St. NWLincolnRd.NEMassachusettsAve.NW2ndSt.NEH St. NEH St. NWH St. NWD St. NEC St. NEDelawareAve.NEMarylandAve. NEC St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NENewJerseyAve.SEJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWC St. SWD St. SWD St. SWWashingtonAve. SWGeorgiaAve.NWMaineAve.SWPennsylvaniaAve.NWSoutheast FreewayMt. VernonSquareColumbusCircleLoganCircleN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenFranklinSquareGarfield ParkUnionStationPlazaJohn MarshallParkCapitolUnionStationWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLENOMACHINATOWNU STREETCORRIDORV I R G I N I AWhiteHouseCapitolLincolnMemorialARLINGTONNAT’L CEMETERYUnionStationNATIONAL MALLReagan Nat’lAirportPotomacRiverThePentagonV I R G I N I AWhiteHouseCapitolLincolnMemorialARLINGTONNAT’L CEMETERYUnionStationNATIONAL MALLReagan Nat’lAirportPotomacRiverThePentagonArea ofmain mapSee “Map of thePolitical Stars”GEORGETOWNGEORGETOWND.C. Area12543611101/4 mi00 0.25 km
28TheBestSpecial-InterestToursOh, the intrigue . . . the drama . . . the repressed yawnsfrom members of Congress as they fight to stay awake duringmarathon legislative sessions on Capitol Hill. Exciting or not, Wash-ington is pure politics, 24/7. If you live here, there’s no escape fromthe maneuverings of our elected officials, and the (sometimes biting,sometimes toothless) press corps that hounds them. If you’re visit-ing, spend a few days catching a glimpse of the capital’s complex,consequential, and at times truly captivating political scene, frompast to present, with this tour. START: Metro to Capitol South or UnionStation1 ★★★ U.S. Capitol Building.Viewed from the wide avenues thatradiate toward and away from it, theCapitol is almost palatial in its gran-deur, crowning the highest pointbetween the Potomac and Anacostiarivers. Connected to the WhiteHouse by a grand diagonal avenue(Pennsylvania Ave.), the Capitol waspart of architect Pierre L’Enfant’splan to represent the separation ofpowers in the capital grid and archi-tecture when he laid out the city in1791. The Capitol complex includesthe Capitol, the House and SenateOffice Buildings, the U.S. Botanic Gar-den, the Capitol Grounds, the Libraryof Congress buildings, and theSupreme Court Building. Among theCapitol’s most impressive featuresare the cast-iron dome, the rotunda,the old Senate and Supreme Courtchambers, the Brumidi Corridors,and the National Statuary Hall. Whenyou tour the building, you’ll see inte-rior embellishments that includerichly patterned and colored floortiles, the vaulted and ornately deco-rated corridors on the first floor ofthe Senate wing, and the fluted whitemarble pillars lining the Hall of Col-umns, plus hundreds of paintings,sculptures, and other artworks,including the 4,664-square-foot(433 sq. m) fresco The Apotheosis ofWashington. In late 2008, the experi-ence of visiting the Capitol changedmonumentally with the opening ofthe Capitol Visitor Center. This halfbillion-dollar complex, locatedbeneath the Capitol itself, has anexhibition hall featuring the Statue ofFreedom, amendments to the Con-stitution, and an 11-foot-tall (3.4m)model of the Capitol Dome. Hands-on exhibits include virtual tours ofthe building and touchable reproduc-tions of famous Capitol artworks.Remember—food, beverages, largebags, and pointed objects are pro-hibited on these tours. @ 2 hr. Eastend of the Mall (entrance on E. Capi-tol and 1st sts. NW). y 202/226-8000.Politicos on the famous Capitol steps.
29PoliticalWashingtonyourself how justice prevails—orsometimes doesn’t. The Court convenes on the firstMonday in October and stays in ses-sion until it has heard all of its casesand handed down its decisions. Ithears oral arguments the Monday,Tuesday, and Wednesday of the first 2weeks of each month. Visitors can lis-ten to the arguments on short tours,or they can watch the entire day’s pro-ceedings. Note: If you are a legal eagleor Court TV fanatic bent on spendingthe whole day here, arrive by 8:30amto get in line early; seating is first-come, first-served. @ 2 hr. 1st andE. Capitol sts. NE. y 202/479-3211.www.supremecourtus.gov. Free admis-sion. Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm, except fed-eral holidays. Lines can be long; beprepared to wait for up to 1 hr. Metro:Capitol South or Union Station.www.aoc.gov, www.house.gov,www.visitthecapitol.gov, or www.senate.gov. Mon–Sat, 1st tour at8:50am and last at 3:20pm. ClosedJan 1, Thanksgiving, and Dec 25.Metro: Capitol South or UnionStation.2 ★★ Supreme Court. Whetherthey’re debating about constitution-ality, voting over dimpled chads, orwalking a social tightrope over con-troversial federal laws, the nation’snine Supreme Court justices, whoare appointed for life terms, casttheir votes here. Where the buckstops when it comes to determiningthe liberties of Americans, thechamber of the highest court in theland has been restored to itsmid-19th-century appearance. It’sworth visiting, if only to see forIf you wish to visit the House and/or Senate galleries while theyare in session, you’ll need a pass from your congressional represen-tative, or from your sergeant-at-arms if you live in the District (andsuffer “taxation without representation”). The House gallery is openweekdays from 9am to 4:15pm when the House is not in session;the Senate gallery is open during scheduled recesses of 1 week ormore, weekdays from 9am to 4:15pm. Entry to both galleries isthrough the Capitol Visitor Center on the upper level. Call y 202/226-8000 or go to www.visitthecapitol.gov.Legislative Sessions LiveThe Old Supreme Court Chamber in the Capitol Building.
303 Bullfeathers, steps from theCapitol Building and named for theeuphemism Teddy Roosevelt used toavoid swearing while in office, is theplace for hungry Hill staffers and polit-icos to enjoy burgers and bar food,among other American classics. 4101st St. SE. y 202/484-0228. www.bullfeathersdc.com. $–$$. Metro:Capitol South.TheBestSpecial-InterestTours5 FBI. The highest level of Ameri-can law enforcement, the FederalBureau of Investigation is headquar-tered on Pennsylvania Avenue,between 9th and 10th streets, in theJ. Edgar Hoover Building. While itonce offered public tours, these havebeen suspended indefinitely. But thatshouldn’t stop you from buying anFBI sweatshirt from a street vendor,and telling the kids back home youtoured it anyway. @ 20 min. 935Pennsylvania Ave. NW. y (202) 324-3447. www.fbi.gov. Metro: FederalTriangle or Archives.6 National Archives. How elsecan you experience the founding ofour nation’s government than byseeing the documents that started itall? The Constitution, the Declara-tion of Independence, and the Bill ofRights are here, along with count-less other materialssuch as Abraham Lin-coln’s telegrams tohis generals andaudio recordings fromthe Oval Office. Advancedreservations arehighly recom-mended, as thewait to get incan be as long as an hour at theheight of tourist season (mid-Marthrough Labor Day). Guided toursare offered at 9:45am Monday toThe Guardian of Law, outside the U.S. Supreme Court.4 ★★ International SpyMuseum. James Bond, eat yourheart out. This place makes your“high-tech” gadgetry seem, well,quaint. Come tour the real deal, thefirst American museum dedicated tothe art of espionage. Learn aboutSoviet double agents, attend any ofa revolving assortment of expertlectures, view the spy treasuresfrom Hollywood films, play spygames, and do other super cool,super sneaky stuff. @ 2 hr.800 F St. NW. y 202/EYE-SPYU [393-7798]. www.spymuseum.org.Admission $20adults, $15seniors, $14 kids7–11, free for kids6 and under. Hours change monthly;see website for details. Metro: Gal-lery Place/Chinatown.A shoe camera at theInternational SpyMuseum.
31PoliticalWashingtonThe Washington Post—immortal-ized by Bob Woodward and CarlBernstein’s dogged reporting onthe Watergate scandal—at onceexposes and greases the politicalmachinery of the capital. Stop bythe 8★★ Post Pub, where legionsafter official luncheons—you mustdo so in a group of 10 or more. Youalso need to make an official requestand submit it through your repre-sentative in Congress. Theseself-guided tours arescheduled on a first-come, first-served basisand need to be madeat least 1 month inadvance of your visit.To enhance your experi-ence, stop by the WhiteHouse Visitor Centerto view exhibitionson the architecture,furnishings, events,and social history ofAmerica’s First Address. @ 1 hr.;come early for an unobstructed viewthrough the iron fence and skip anyelbowing to get close. 1600 Pennsyl-vania Ave. NW. y 202/456-7041(24-hr. information hotline). www.whitehouse.gov. Free admission.Tour times vary; visitor center: daily7:30am–4pm. Closed on federal holi-days. Metro: Federal Triangle andMcPherson Sq.Friday, or you can book a TimedVisit Entry, 10am to 90 minutesbefore closing. @ 11⁄2 hr. Constitu-tion Ave. NW (btw. 7th & 9th sts.).877/444-6777. Free admis-sion. 10am–7pm (Mar 15to Labor Day); 10am–5:30pm (Day afterLabor Day to Mar 14),Closed Thanksgivingand Dec 25.7 ★★★ WhiteHouse. President JohnAdams and his wife,Abigail, were the firsttenants, back in 1800,and every subsequentU.S. president and his wife have livedhere since. President Barack Obamaand his wife, Michelle, planted anorganic garden on its lawn and evenbuilt a play set for daughters Maliaand Sasha on the south grounds. Butthe White House has seen its shareof drama over the years: It endured afire set by invading British troops in1812; survived another blaze in 1929during Herbert Hoover’s presidency;lived down President Clinton’s OvalOffice shenanigans in the late 1990s;and even served as a backdrop forthe Aaron Sorkin series, The WestWing, taking drama to an Emmy-win-ning level. If you wish to tour its leg-endary rooms—from the elegantreception area of the Blue Room tothe Yellow Oval Room, where stateguests are entertained before orThe official seal of the FederalBureau of Investigation.The International Spy Museum.
32TheBestSpecial-InterestToursof ink-stained scribes come to slama beer after a hard day fact-check-ing the latest innuendo, accusation,or blatant lie issued by one of theU.S.’s fearless leaders. See p 151.note of apology to her neighbors.@ 10 min. Condo complex: 700 NewHampshire Ave. NW. Metro: FoggyBottom.0 Map of the Political Stars.If you’ve ever cruised around Bev-erly Hills, California, you’ve seen thesigns selling “Star Maps” that pin-point the gated entrances to yourfavorite celebrities’ private dwell-ings. In a city that has famouslybeen described as “Hollywood forUgly People,” a map of the politicalstars is appropriate. Politicos andthe journalists who cover them setup house all around the District, butGeorgetown is like the North Starwhen it comes to finding govern-ment types past and present. Thistour focuses on this enclave for therich and powerful—the Beverly Hillsof the nation’s capital. @ 2 hr.9 Watergate Complex.Remember when the WatergateHotel was synonymous only withNixon, botched burglaries, andWoodward and Bernstein? Now,when you walk by this Washingtonlegend, you can’t help but think ofanother salacious scandal thatfound its orbit here: The adjacentWatergate condo complex is whereMonica Lewinsky hid for 9 monthsfrom a stalking press corps afternews broke of her affair with Presi-dent Bill Clinton. She left the resi-dence in October 1998, leaving aA protest in front of the White House.The infamous Watergate Complex.
33PoliticalWashingtonRockCreekChesapeake & Ohio CanalPotomac R.PotomacSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve. NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWReservoirRd. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWN St. NWM St. NWM St. NW M St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thSt.NWS St. NW S St. NWR St. NWR St. NW37thSt.NW36thSt.NW35thSt.NW28thSt.NW31stSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NW&PotomacPkwy.NWRockCreekDumbarton Ave. NWCanal Rd. NWRock CreekPkwy.NW27thSt.NWMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYDumbartonOaksGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYGEORGETOWNRockCreekChesapeake & Ohio CanalPotomac R.PotomacSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve. NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWReservoirRd. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWN St. NWM St. NWM St. NW M St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thSt.NWeS St. NW S St. NWR St. NWR St. NW37thSt.NW36thSt.NW35thSt.NW28thSt.NW31stSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NW&PotomacPkwy.NWRockCreekDumbarton Ave. NWCanal Rd. NWRock CreekPkwy.NW27thSt.NWMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYDumbartonOaksGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYGEORGETOWNEMLHGAJBOFCDIKN200 y00 200 mMap of thePolitical StarsAJohn Kerry residence. A resi-dence of the senator and former pres-idential candidate (3322 O St. NW).BJohn and Jackie Kennedyhouse. Their home before movinginto the White House (3307 N St. NW).CAlexander Graham Bell resi-dence. Home of the inventor of thetelephone—not a political figure perse, but one whose contributions wereto have a huge impact on the futureof the nation (1527 35th St. NW).DJohn Edwards residence.The former senator and his family livehere. It’s also the former home of CIAhead Frank Wisner. Legend has it thatmany CIA agents lived along Q Streetduring the Agency’s founding years(3327 P St. NW). EJohn Warnerand Elizabeth Taylor home—once upon a time (3240 S St. NW).FJohn F. Kennedy residence.He lived here after first being electedto Congress from Massachusetts’11th District (1528 31st St. NW).G Bob Woodward residence.Home of the Watergate reporter(3027 Q St. NW). HTudor Place.Once home to six generations of Mar-tha Washington’s descendants, it’snow a museum (1644 31st St. NW).IKatharine Graham resi-dence. Former home of the womanwho guided the Washington Postfor decades (2920 R St. NW). JDumbarton House. Originallybelonged to Joseph Nourse, registerof the Treasury for six presidents(2715 Q St. NW). KHenry Kiss-inger residence. Home of thesuperdiplomat (3026 P St. NW).LMiss Lydia English’sGeorgetown Female Seminary.Visited by Martin Van Buren, JamesBuchanan, and Daniel Webster. Laterserved as a Union Army hospital(1311 30th St. NW). MJackie Ken-nedy residence. She lived herebriefly following JFK’s assassination(3017 N St. NW). NPamela andW. Averell Harriman residence.Home of the politician, diplomat, andbusinessman W. Averell Harriman andhis third wife, the socialite and politicalactivist Pamela Churchill Harriman(3038 N St. NW). OFoxhall House.Residence of Henry Foxhall, whosefoundry provided guns for the War of1812 (2908 N St. NW).
34TheBestSpecial-InterestToursstructure. Popularized in Hollywoodmovies, it was scarred on the tragicday of September 11, 2001, when ahijacked airliner ripped into its westside, killing 125 workers and 59 pas-sengers. The building smoldered fordays. But, incredibly, the gash in itswall was repaired within 6 monthsand new offices were constructed bythe 1-year anniversary of the attack.In dedication to the lives lost in theattack, the Pentagon 9/11 Memorialwas constructed and unveiled onSeptember 11, 2008. It consists of184 benches—one for each victim—that range in height to represent theyoungest and oldest victims of theattack. It’s free and open to the pub-lic every day. Visitors who want totour the building and pay theirrespects will need to reserve a grouptour at least 2 weeks (and a maxi-mum of 3 months) in advance. @ 2hr. including commute. Off I-395.y 703/697-1776. http://pentagon.afis.osd.mil. To submit your tourrequest, go to the website and click“Tours.” Free admission. Metro:Pentagon.! ★★★ Pentagon. The headquar-ters for the Department of Defense isone of the world’s largest officebuildings, holding approximately23,000 government workers, bothmilitary and civilian. Perhaps only theWhite House figures as much intothe collective consciousness as thisPresident Richard Nixon, who made theWatergate infamous.The 9/11 Memorial at the Pentagon.
35PoliticalWashingtonArt and Soul ★★ (415 New Jersey Ave. NW; y 202/393-7777), inthe Liaison Hotel on Capitol Hill, is a favorite among the power-tie/pumps-and-pearls-set for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Also on theHill, the dive bars Tune Inn (332 Pennsylvania Ave. SE; y 202/543-2725) and Pour House (319 Pennsylvania Ave. SE; y 202/546-0779), with their quirky decors, are the perfect spots to eavesdrop onthe scuttlebutt of young Hill staffers, who flock here after work. InPenn Quarter, the Capital Grille (601 Pennsylvania Ave. NW;y 202/737-6200) is ground zero for cigars, Scotch, steaks, suspend-ers, and high-level lobbying. Catch prominent members of Congresswheeling and dealing at Charlie Palmer Steak (101 Constitution Ave.NW; y 202/547-8100), a mainstay for tasty lunchtime steaks andcrab cakes. Steps from the White House, in the Hay-Adams Hotel, Offthe Record Bar (800 16th St. NW; y 202/638-6600) serves stiffdrinks to power mongers. And John Boswell—four-time Washingto-nian magazine “Best Bartender” winner—pretends not to overhearstate secrets. The very preppy Smith Point (1338 Wisconsin Ave. NW;y 202/333-9003) is a hot spot for SUV-driving Young Republicans;it’s where to head for Nantucket-style entrees—and the latest looksin Lacoste wear.Where Politicos Drink & DineThe Hay-Adams Hotel’s Off the Record Bar, considered to be one of the world’s besthotel bars.
36TheBestSpecial-InterestToursD.C. for Architecture Lovers2950166666639550ALT29MMMMMMMMLittleRiverTidal BasinReflecting PoolChannelGeorgetownPotomacRiverRockCreekC&O CanalPotomac RiverRosslynFoggy Bottom–GWUFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleDupontCircleWoodley Park–Zoo/Adams MorganArlingtonCemeteryPennsylvaniaAve.NWWisconsinAve.NWM St. NW M St. NWCathedral Ave. NWConnecticutAve.NWReservoir Rd. NWColumbiaRd. NWFloridaAve.NWNewHampshireAve.NWConnecticutAve.NWCalvert St. NWCathedral Ave.NW18thSt.NW16thSt.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NWGeorgeWashingtonMemorialPkwy.VirginiaAve.NWConstitution Ave. NW17thSt.NWIndependence Ave. SWWisconsinAve.NWWoodley Rd. NW34thSt.NWK St. NWM St. NWU St. NWClevelandAve.NWMassachusettsAve.NWWhitehurst Fwy. NWJeffersonDavisHwy.GeorgeWashingtonMem.Pkwy.CustisMemorialPkwy.WashingtonBlvd.GeorgeWashingtonMemorialPkwy.Scott CircleDupontCircleWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeTheodore RooseveltMemorial BridgeArlington MemorialBridgeROCKCREEKPARKROCK CREEKPARKDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYA R L I N G T O NN A T I O N A LC E M E T E R YTheEllipseLafayetteSquareMeridianHillParkLADY BIRDJOHNSONPARKTheodoreRooseveltIslandU.S. NavalObservatoryKennedyCenterDumbartonOaksLincolnMemorialWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialWorld War IIMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialKorean WarVeterans Mem.Iwo JimaMemorialFDRMemorialTheodoreRooseveltMemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYGeorge MasonMemorialTo the PentagonDumbartonHouseWashingtonNationalCathedralOldStoneHouseN AT I O N A L Z O ODUPONTCIRCLEADAMSMORGANFOGGYBOTTOMARLINGTONGEORGETOWNU STREETEMBASSYROWV I R G I N I ABritishEmbassyLittleRiverTidal BasinReflecting PoolChannelGeorgetownPotomacRiverRockCreekC&O CanalPotomac RiverRosslynFoggy Bottom–GWUFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleDupontCircleWoodley Park–Zoo/Adams MorganArlingtonCemeteryPennsylvaniaAve.NWWisconsinAve.NWM St. NW M St. NWCathedral Ave. NWConnecticutAve.NWReservoir Rd. NWColumbiaRd. NWFloridaAve.NWNewHampshireAve.NWConnecticutAve.NWCalvert St. NWCathedral Ave.NW18thSt.NW16thSt.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NWGeorgeWashingtonMemorialPkwy.VirginiaAve.NWConstitution Ave. NW17thSt.NWIndependence Ave. SWWisconsinAve.NWWoodley Rd. NW34thSt.NWK St. NWM St. NWU St. NWClevelandAve.NWMassachusettsAve.NWWhitehurst Fwy. NWJeffersonDavisHwy.GeorgeWashingtonMem.Pkwy.CustisMemorialPkwy.WashingtonBlvd.GeorgeWashingtonMemorialPkwy.Scott CircleDupontCircleWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeTheodore RooseveltMemorial BridgeArlington MemorialBridgeROCKCREEKPARKROCK CREEKPARKDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYA R L I N G T O NN A T I O N A LC E M E T E R YTheEllipseLafayetteSquareMeridianHillParkLADY BIRDJOHNSONPARKTheodoreRooseveltIslandU.S. NavalObservatoryKennedyCenterDumbartonOaksLincolnMemorialWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialWorld War IIMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialKorean WarVeterans Mem.Iwo JimaMemorialFDRMemorialTheodoreRooseveltMemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYGeorge MasonMemorialTo the PentagonDumbartonHouseWashingtonNationalCathedralOldStoneHouseN AT I O N A L Z O ODUPONTCIRCLEADAMSMORGANFOGGYBOTTOMARLINGTONGEORGETOWNU STREETEMBASSYROWV I R G I N I ATo IntelsatBritishEmbassy5141113
37D.C.forArchitectureLovers13956953953953953952929291150MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM MM MMMWashingtonChannelMcMillanReservoirColumbiaHeightsU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterUnionStationJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWWaterfront Navy YardCapitolSouthEastern MarketMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianRhodeBrentShaw–Howard U.New York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UMcPhersonSquareShermanAve.NWColumbia Rd. NWAve. NWMichiganGeorgiaAve.NWRhodeIsland Ave. NWFloridaAve.NWVermontAve.NWNew YorkAve.NWNew York Ave.NEFloridaAve.NEMassachusettsAve.NWNorthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.14thSt.SW14thSt.NW7thSt.NW7thSt.SW4thSt.SWM St. SW11thSt.NWConstitution Ave. NW15thSt.NWNewJerseyAve.NWMassachusettsAve. NEMarylandAve. NEConstitution Ave. NEPennsylvaniaAve. SES. CarolinaAve. SEIndependenceAve. SEIndependence Ave. SWWashingtonAve. SW14thSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWU St. NWK St. NW K St. NEFlorida Ave. NW5thSt.NESoutheast FreewaySouthCapitolSt.MaineAve.SWF St. NWH St. NEH St. NWF St. NEThomasCircleMt. VernonSquareColumbusCircleLoganCircleN A T I O N A L M A L LFranklinSquareStantonSquareUnionStationPlazaTrinityCollegeGALLAUDETUNIVERSITYCapitolWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterUnionStationHOWARDUNIVERSITYLIBRARYOFCONGRESSSupremeCourtPENN QUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLECAPITOL HILLNOMACHINATOWNCORRIDORM St. SE12thSt.SWNat’lRealtorsAssoc.WashingtonChannelMcMillanReservoirColumbiaHeightsU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterUnionStationJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWWaterfront Navy YardCapitolSouthEastern MarketMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianRhodeBrentShaw–Howard U.New York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UMcPhersonSquareShermanAve.NWColumbia Rd. NWAve. NWMichiganGeorgiaAve.NWRhodeIsland Ave. NWFloridaAve.NWVermontAve.NWNew YorkAve.NWNew York Ave.NEFloridaAve.NEMassachusettsAve.NWNorthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.14thSt.SW14thSt.NW7thSt.NW7thSt.SWM St. SW M St. SE11thSt.NW12thSt.SWConstitution Ave. NW15thSt.NWNewJerseyAve.NWMassachusettsAve. NEMarylandAve. NEConstitution Ave. NEPennsylvaniaAve. SES. CarolinaAve. SEIndependenceAve. SEIndependence Ave. SWWashingtonAve. SW14thSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWU St. NWK St. NW K St. NEFlorida Ave. NW5thSt.NESoutheast FreewaySouthCapitolSt.MaineAve.SWF St. NWH St. NEH St. NWF St. NE4thSt.SWThomasCircleMt. VernonSquareColumbusCircleLoganCircleN A T I O N A L M A L LFranklinSquareStantonSquareUnionStationPlazaTrinityCollegeGALLAUDETUNIVERSITYCapitolWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterUnionStationHOWARDUNIVERSITYLIBRARYOFCONGRESSSupremeCourtPENN QUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLECAPITOL HILLNOMACHINATOWNCORRIDORNat’lRealtorsAssoc.L’Enfant’s GridU.S. Capitol BuildingThe Jefferson Buildingof the Library of CongressFolger Shakespeare LibraryWashington MonumentNational Museumof the American IndianSmithsonian CastleNational Gallery of ArtNational Portrait GalleryNational Building MuseumUnion StationCenter CaféEmbassy RowWashington NationalCathedral123456798131411102 436798111011112120.5 mi00 0.5 km
38TheBestSpecial-InterestToursItalian journalist Beppe Severgnini wrote Ciao, America: An Ital-ian Discovers the U.S., which details his experience living in a his-toric Georgetown row house. He echoes the sentiments I’ve heardamong many expat Europeans in Washington: that despite the starkforeignness of America—the fast-food, techno-obsessed, impatient,kid-worshipping culture of this country—at least, in D.C., there is thearchitecture. The buildings here evoke the grand structures of Parisand the historically wrought designs of London, with the neoclassicalembellishments of both—Roman-style pillars, carved flourishes, andweathered stone lions perched on guard before public entrances.START: Metro to Capitol South or Union Station1 L’Enfant’s Grid. Designed in1791 by French engineer PierreL’Enfant, the District’s street plan—a conventional city grid overlaidwith grand, diagonal avenues—mimics the layout of many greatEuropean cities. Designed to repre-sent the separation of powers andthe balance between state and fed-eral government, the grid links theCapitol and the White House via thegrand Pennsylvania Avenue. Diago-nal avenues are named for thestates. The 21⁄2-mile-long (4km),400-foot-wide (122m) esplanadeknown as the National Mall links theWhite House with the WashingtonMonument. Washington fired L’Enfant,whose grand scheme prevailed buttook more than a century to build,with major snafus along the way(the British torched the WhiteHouse, the Capitol Building, and theLibrary of Congress in 1814). ButD.C.’s centennial in 1900 broughtrenewed interest in and commit-ment to L’Enfant’s vision, whichserved as a blueprint for the rede-sign of the city by the likes ofFrederick Law Olmstead, DanielBurnham, and Charles McKim. @ 20min. To see L’Enfant’s original draw-ings and other historical documents,visit the Library of Congress, p 57.2 ★★★ U.S. Capitol Building.Washington’s architecture is aboutneoclassical harmony and a fiercereverence for the era that birthedthe nation’s capital, and no buildingbetter exemplifies these values thanthe Capitol itself. Amateur architectGeorge Washington praised theoriginal plans for the building,drafted by Dr. William Thornton, forThe Washington Monument and the Capitol Building from across the Potomac.
39D.C.forArchitectureLoversComing years saw the addition of anequally impressive interior withworks by more than 50 Americanartists, commissioned by architectEdward Pearce Casey. In the MainReading Room, crane your neck tosee the dome 160 feet (49m) above;the cupola is a female figure paintedby artist Edwin Blashfield, represent-ing “Human Understanding.” @ 1hr. 10 1st St. SE. y 202/707-8000.their “grandeur, simplicity, and con-venience.” Construction, however,was anything but simple. When Con-gress first met here in November1800, it was still under construction.Begun in 1793, the project wouldtake 34 years and six architects tocomplete. Even then, it was toosmall for its occupants, and a sec-ond round of construction lastedthrough 1851. Lincoln insisted thatthe expansion continue during theCivil War. The neoclassical structurenow covers 4 acres (1.6 hectares)and is 288 feet (88m) tall, includingthe Statue of Freedom. @ 2 hr. Seep 28.3 ★ Jefferson Building of theLibrary of Congress. A muchsmaller version of the Library ofCongress originally sat inside thenew Capitol, but the Britishdestroyed it upon sacking the cityduring the War of 1812. In its place,Thomas Jefferson offered his per-sonal library. In 1886, Congressfinally authorized construction of alarger Italian Renaissance–stylelibrary, designed by local architectsJohn L. Smithmeyer and Paul J. Pelz.Folger Shakespeare Library.The I. M. Pei wing of the National Gallery.
40TheBestSpecial-InterestToursdifference in color between the mar-ble at the bottom and that at the top.It was the tallest building in the worlduntil the Eiffel Tower’s completion in1889, and it’s still the tallest in D.C.@ 45 min. See p 53.6 ★★ National Museum ofthe American Indian. A team ofNative architects and consultantswww.loc.gov. Free admission.Obtain same-day free tickets to tourthe library inside the west entranceon 1st St. Mon–Sat 8:30am–4:30pm.Closed federal holidays. Metro: Capi-tol South.4 Folger Shakespeare Library.The marble exterior of this neoclas-sical building blends harmoniouslywith the nearby Library of Congressand Supreme Court, but the interioris pure Tudor England, completewith oak paneling and plaster ceil-ings. The building was designed byPaul Philippe Cret, but the Shake-speare bas-reliefs on the exteriorwere designed by John Gregory.Masks of Comedy and Tragedy hangabove the doors. @ 30 min. 201 E.Capitol St. SE. y 202/544-7077.www.folger.edu. Free admission.Mon–Sat 10am–5pm: Sun noon-–5pm; free walk-in tours daily at11am and 1pm on Sun. Closed fed-eral holidays. Metro: Capitol Southor Union Station.5 Washington Monument.The idea for a national monument toGeorge Washington began as earlyas 1783, but construction on thisEgyptian-style obelisk in the center ofthe National Mall didn’t begin until1848. Designed by famed architectRobert Mills, work on the monumentwas stopped in 1854 due to lack offunds. To this day, you can see theThe exterior of the National Museum ofthe American Indian.In 1899, Congress passed the Heights of Building Act, whichstipulated that no private structure within the District could risehigher than the Capitol Building or other important government edi-fice—meaning the city would never boast the skyscrapers of othertowns. (A later act amended this height restriction to 130 ft./40m, andmade exceptions for spires, towers, and domes.) This merely chal-lenged contemporary architects to soar to new “heights”; moderndesign here is concise but nonetheless stunning.Curbing Vertical Sprawl
41D.C.forArchitectureLoversadmission. Daily, 8:30am–5:30pm.Metro: Smithsonian.8 National Gallery of Art. Themuseum’s triangular-shaped EastBuilding—with its acute-angledstone corners, designed in 1978 byI. M. Pei—may look worlds apartfrom the neoclassical West Buildingacross the plaza, but its marble wascut from the same quarry in Tennes-see. The West Building, whichresembles the nearby Museum ofNatural History, was designed byJohn Russell Pope in 1941. @ 1 hr.See p 12.9 ★★★ National Portrait Gal-lery. Designed by a number ofprominent architects, including Rob-ert Mills (designer of the Washing-ton Monument), this museum wasthe third public building constructedin the city, after the Capitol and theWhite House. During the Civil War, itserved as the site of Lincoln’s sec-ond inaugural ball as well as a hospi-tal for soldiers. Although it’s anotable example of Greek Revivalarchitecture, it was almost demol-ished in the 1950s before the Smith-sonian Institution took over itscontrol. It closed in 2001 for adesigned this pueblo-like museum,constructed of Kasota stone, on theNational Mall. With its curved facadeand angled placement, the buildingaligns with Native American beliefsin the cardinal points. The groundsinclude cascading water, as well aswetlands of wild rice, marsh mari-golds, corn, native tree species, andindigenous plants to honor localNative people. @ 11⁄2 hr. 4th St. &Independence Ave. SW. y 202/633-1000. Free admission. Daily 10am–5:30pm, except Dec 25. www.nmai.si.edu. Metro: L’Enfant Plaza.7 Smithsonian Castle. Frommuseums to monuments, marble isde rigueur for buildings along theNational Mall. So no wonder thisGothic Castle, placed squarely in themiddle of the lot, sticks out. ArchitectJames Renwick, Jr., of St. Patrick’sCathedral in New York, designed theoriginal Smithsonian Institution Build-ing in 1855, and constructed it of redsandstone from nearby SenecaCreek, MD. The classic structure isnow home base for the SmithsonianInformation Center and its gallery.@ 30 min. 1000 Jefferson Dr. SW.y 202/633-1000. www.si.edu. FreeThe National Gallery’s East Building Atrium.
42TheBestSpecial-InterestToursLinger over the view of Union Sta-tion’s opulent atrium while enjoyinga quick bite of American fare at the@Center Café. Union Station, 2Massachusetts Ave. NW; y 202/682-3042; arkrestaurants.com. $.Metro: Union Station.! Union Station. When masterarchitect Daniel Burnham designedthis Beaux Arts–style building, hewas determined to make it a grandgateway for a magnificent city, com-plete with 96-foot (29m) ceilingsinlaid with 70 pounds (32kg) of22-karat gold leaf. Upon its comple-tion in 1908, Union Station was thelargest train station in the world; iflaid on its side, the WashingtonMonument would fit into its con-course. Its original area, along withthe terminal zone, totaled 200 acres(81 hectares) and included 75 miles(121km) of track. It was also enor-mously expensive, costing roughly$125 million to build. @ 45 min. 2Massachusetts Ave. NE. y 202/289-1908. www.unionstationdc.com.Free admission. Daily 24 hr. Metro:Union Station.5-year renovation project thatadded more exhibition space, anauditorium, and an enclosed court-yard featuring a dramatic glass-and-steel roof. @ 1 hr. 8th and F sts. NW(in the U.S. Patent Office Building).y 202/638-8300. www.npg.si.edu.Free admission. Call for hours.Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.0 National Building Museum.With regular exhibitions devoted toart and architecture, this palatial brickmuseum took roughly 5 years to buildand was modeled after Italy’s monu-mental Palazzo Farnese that Michel-angelo commissioned in 1589. Themassive Great Hall of the buildingholds colossal Corinthian columns—among the tallest in the world—andextends 116 x 316 feet (35 x 96m). Afountain bisects the hall, stretching28 feet (8.5m) across. Strategicallyplaced windows, vents, and archwaysare part of a unique ventilation sys-tem that whisks a continuous flow offresh air through the building. @ 1 hr.401 F St. NW. y 202/272-2448. www.nbm.org. $8 adults; $5 youth, students,and seniors. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun11am–5pm. Metro: Judiciary Square.# ★★ Embassy Row. This stretchof Massachusetts Avenue fromDupont Circle to the National Cathe-dral is where the majority of foreignembassies and ambassadors reside.Sir Edwin Lutyens—an architect of thelate 19th and early 20th centuries,renowned for his English countryhouses and remodeled castles—designed the British Embassy in 1928.This prominent Embassy Row struc-ture is notable for its tall chimneysand high roofs, suggestive of theQueen Anne period. From this tradi-tional design to the contemporaryglass wall that juts over Rock CreekPark at the Finnish embassy, there’sno shortage of architectural inspira-tion along this tour. @ 2 hr. Begin:Embassy Row.
43D.C.forArchitectureLoversMassachusetts Ave. NW at DupontCircle and head North. Metro: DupontCircle.$ ★★★ Washington NationalCathedral. More than 200 stained-glass windows adorn this classicGothic-style cathedral, the secondlargest in the United States andsixth largest in the world; one ofthem has a rock from the moonembedded in its center. The build-ing, made largely of gray Indianalimestone and completed in 1990after 2 centuries of planning andmore than 80 years of work, con-tains a number of magnificentwoodcarvings, metal work, andother artworks. Frederick Bodley, anAnglican Church architect, originallyoversaw the project (with supervi-sion by architect Henry Vaughan),but Philip Hubert Frohman took overafter World War I. The top of thecathedral tower is the highest pointin the city. @ 1 hr. See p 21.The magnificent interior of the Washing-ton National Cathedral.While not open for public tours, a handful of architectural sitesaround D.C. are known for their cutting-edge design. Graham GundArchitects of Cambridge, Massachusetts, designed the 12-storyNational Realtors Association headquarters (500 New JerseyAve. NW; y 800/874-6500; free tours by appointment only; Metro:Judiciary Sq.) to be environmentally sustainable, with recycledmaterials, permeability to natural light to reduce energy costs, anda carbon dioxide monitoring system to introduce more fresh air intohighly populated areas. Built in 1987, the Intelsat building (3400International Dr. NW; y 202/944-6800; www.intelsat.com; freetours by appointment only; Metro: Van Ness/UDC) has a uniquefacade, designed by John Andrews International, that provides nat-ural lighting to the “office pods” inside and conserves energy.Strong Foundations
46TheBestSpecial-InterestToursHere’s a bold statement: Disney World included, there is no bet-ter place to take the kids on vacation than Washington, D.C. TheDistrict is overflowing with the stuff of a memorable field trip—pandas,dinosaur bones, spy gadgets, rocket ships, insect gardens, historicalmonuments—and much of it is free. There’s even a park, adjacent toRonald Reagan National Airport, that’s so close to the runways, youfeel as though planes are landing on top of you. Ask any kid—nothingis cooler than this. Allow at least 2 days to complete this tour, or pickand choose the stops you wish to visit, depending on your kids’ atten-tion span and level of interest. START: Metro to Smithsonian1 ★★★ Paddle boats on theTidal Basin. The Jefferson Memo-rial overlooks the serene waters ofthe Tidal Basin, dotted with paddleboats on sunny days. Rent a boatand marry a history lesson withsome exercise—and see the monu-ments and cherry blossoms from abeautiful and unique vantage point.@ 1 hr. 1501 Maine Ave. SW (15thSt.). y 202/479-2426. 2-passengerboat $12 per hr.; 4-passenger boat$19 per hr. Mar 15 to mid-Oct daily10am–6pm. Metro: Smithsonian.2 ★★ National BuildingMuseum. If the weather is blister-ing or freezing and the kids need toblow off some steam, then head tothis museum. The colossal GreatHall, which has hosted 15 presiden-tial inaugural balls, is the perfectplace to let them run indoors. Bringyour own food and have a picnicinside, or head to the museum’sBuilding Zone, ideal for visitors ages2 to 6. Children can build towersand walls, drive bulldozers and playtrucks, or work on any number ofarts and crafts projects. @ 1 hr. 401F St. NW y 202/272-2448. www.nbm.org. $8 adults; $5 youth, stu-dents, and seniors. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Metro:Judiciary Square or Gallery Place/Chinatown.3 ★★ National Museum ofNatural History. Founded in 1846,this enormous repository for animaland plant specimens, many longextinct, includes the remains of 46dinosaurs—guaranteed to woweven the most Nintendo-obsessedkids. Look for the stegosaurus in theHall of Dinosaurs on the first floor.Kids love the huge African bush ele-phant that greets you at the Mall-facing entrance, the expansiveOcean Hall with its 274 living speci-mens, and the first-floor DiscoveryRoom filled with creative hands-onexhibits “for children of all ages.”The outdoor Butterfly Habitat Gar-den, on the 9th Street side of thebuilding, is another crowd-pleaser:The 11,000-square-foot (1,022-sq.-m)area of winding trails and lush vege-tation supports an estimated 26species of butterflies. The gardencultivates interaction between thesewinged creatures and the plantsTiger at the National Zoo.
47WashingtonforKidslearn about Soviet double agents,view the spy treasures from Holly-wood films, play spy games, watchinformative films, and take part inother super-sneaky stuff in a rangeof interactive exhibits. An executivedirector who spent 36 years withthe CIA and an advisory boardincluding two former CIA directors,two former CIA disguise chiefs, anda retired KGB general ensure thatthe stuff you see here is 100%authoritative. @ 1 hr. Metro: GalleryPlace/Chinatown. See p 30.and flowers that attract them, edu-cating and delighting visitors. @ 1hr. 10th St. and Constitution Ave. NWy 202/633-1000. www.mnh.si.edu.Free admission. Daily 10am–5:30pm(Fri–Sat, and in summer, until 7:30pm).Closed Dec 25. Metro: Smithsonian orFederal Triangle.4 ★★★ National Air andSpace Museum. Containing thelargest historical collection of air- andspacecraft in the world, this is theplace to explore rocket ships thathave shot to the stars, see real Rus-sian and American spacesuits, viewthe Wright Brothers’ plane and WorldWar II bombers, and even inspect theearliest passenger planes (kids canwalk through the fuselage of one).The number of craft suspended fromthe sky-high ceiling inspires lots ofupturned heads and dropped jaws.The Lockheed Martin IMAX Theater,with its awesome 3-D effects, willtransport your little ones to Mars orthe moon. @ 2 hr. IndependenceAve. between 4th and 7th sts. y 202/633-2214. www.nasm.si.edu. Freeadmission. Daily 10am–5:30pm (until7:30pm in summer), except Dec 25.Metro: Smithsonian or L’Enfant Plaza(Smithsonian Museums/MarylandAve. exit).5 ★★ International SpyMuseum. Older kids who think thezoo is for babies will love this place,the sole public museum dedicatedto espionage in the world. They’llThe National Museum of Natural History.A gorilla at the National Zoo.
48TheBestSpecial-InterestToursWETLANDSLions TigersLion/TigerHillGREATMEADOWBeachDr.GreatFlightExhibitBirdHouseSlothBearsSealsBaldEaglesGolden LionTamarins(Summer)GiraffesElephantHousePandaCaféKangaroosPandaPavilionMexicanWolvesHippopotamusAmazoniaSmallMammalHouseKids’ FarmPicnic PavilionThinkTankGreatApeHouseReptileDiscoveryCenterRockCreekRockCreekROCK CREEKPARKOlmsted WalkWETLANDSLions TigersLion/TigerHillGREATMEADOWBeachDr.GreatFlightExhibitBirdHouseSlothBearsSealsBaldEaglesGolden LionTamarins(Summer)GiraffesElephantHousePandaCaféKangaroosPandaPavilionMexicanWolvesHippopotamusAmazoniaSmallMammalHouseKids’ FarmPicnic PavilionThinkTankGreatApeHouseReptileDiscoveryCenterRockCreekRockCreekROCK CREEKPARKOlmsted WalkABCDEGFFood & DrinkGift ShopInformationPicnic AreaRest RoomsThe National ZooArguably the stars of the zoo, thegiant pandas Mei Xiang and Tian Tiantake center stage at the AFujiFilmGiant Panda Habitat. Kids can’tget enough of this animated, cuddlylooking pair. Next, follow BOlm-sted Walk and you’ll spot severalnatural habitats holding cheetahs,zebras, and kangaroos. An improvedhome for the CAsian elephants,complete with a new elephant barn,two outdoor yards, and an ElephantExercise Trek, is now in place. Off themain drag, you’ll find natural wetlandsand creatures ranging from baldeagles to seals. Farther south, at theDGreat Ape House, you canpeer through glass walls at six gorillasas they engage in startlingly human-like behaviors: grooming, wrestling,and even hugging one another. In thecircular habitat of the EGreat Cats,south of the Great Ape House, lionsand tigers sun themselves, their tailsbatting lazily as they gaze out atyou. Stop for a bite at the cafeteria-style FMane Grill, which offersburgers, fries, chicken sandwiches,and other fast-food fare. Dine in orenjoy the nearby Picnic Pavilion. Atthe GKids’ Farm, children 3 to 8can meet and greet ducks, chickens,goats, cows, and miniature donkeys.Toddlers also love the nearby “pizza”playground.7 ★★★ National ZoologicalPark. Established in 1889, theNational Zoo is home to some 500species, many of them rare and/orendangered. It also occupies 163acres (66 hectares) of beautifullylandscaped and wooded land,wonderful for strolling and enjoyingthe sunshine. Start your tour with thefamous pandas. @ 2 hr. See p 15.The 6 Spy City Café is the perfectlunch spot for Spy Museum visitors.Dig into salads, soups, sandwiches, orpizzas against a backdrop of photosof spy sites around Washington—thespying capital of the world. 9th andF sts. y 202/654-0995. www.spymuseum.org/spy-city-cafe. $.
49Italian red wine by the glass. 3715Macomb St. NW. y 202/885-5700.www.2amyspizza.com. $$–$$$. NoMetro access (a taxi is advised).Mom and Dad need a drink, and thekids are ravenous. At 9★ 2 Amys,they can dig into some authentic Nea-politan pizza while you savor lovelyWashingtonforKids0 Gravelly Point. If your kids arethrill-seekers, drive to this park thatborders Reagan National Airport,minutes outside the District. (You’llneed a car because no return taxisare available.) On any given day,you’ll find teenagers, toddlers, andgrandparents parked or picnickingon the grass, just feet from the air-port runways. Gaze upward as jetafter jet descends and flies directlyoverhead, so close you can read themarkings on its underbelly—andthen lands safely a short distanceaway. Not for the faint of heart!@ 2 hr., including commute. Off thenorthbound George WashingtonPkwy. y 703/289-2500.8 C&O Canal Towpath. Haverambunctious little ones? Rent abike at any nearby outfitter (seep 121 for specifics) and hit the C&OCanal Towpath. This tree-lined, pic-turesque gravelly trail follows a19th-century canal that begins inGeorgetown and heads west, end-ing 184 miles (296km) later in Cum-berland, Maryland. It’s a favorite ofhikers, joggers, and bicyclists alike,and if you’re looking to escape thebustle of the city or blow off steamafter a day spent touring museums,you’ll love it too. Two boat rentaloutfits near the start of the pathrent kayaks and canoes. @ 2 hr. NoMetro access. See p 122.Child observing a stingray at the Kids’ Farm.
52TheBestSpecial-InterestToursIn the 21st century, America’s capital city bears little resem-blance to the swampy Potomac River Valley territory that Presi-dent George Washington staked out as the new site for Congress in1790. Yet trying to separate Washington from its past is like trying totake the red from blood. Because of its significance in U.S. history,Washington exists on two planes in the collective consciousness:first, as a real city with magnificent structures and whimsical cherrytrees juxtaposed against a backdrop of still-recovering pockets ofpoverty; and second, as a virtual city of suspenseful Hollywood lore,with its Deep Throat–esque covert operations, war games, and con-gressional plottings. The true Washington lies somewhere betweenfact and fiction, past and present, and that is why it never loses itsintrigue or its allure. You can modify this tour to fit your scheduleand level of interest, but allow several days if you wish to visit everystop. START: Metro to Smithsonian1 ★★ Hilton Washington. In1981, John Hinckley, Jr., an obsessedfan of actress Jodie Foster, ambushedRonald Reagan here, just 69 days intothe president’s first term, in a mis-guided attempt to impress the star.Hinckley fired six shots, one of whichstruck Reagan’s armpit. (Reagan’spress secretary James Brady was alsoseriously injured; paralyzed from thewaist down, he has been in a wheel-chair ever since.) The Secret Servicewhisked Reagan away to a waitinghospital, where he underwent emer-gency surgery, making the now-leg-endary joke to his doctors: “I hopeyou’re all Republicans.” Despite being70, the president recovered quickly—and went on to tackle other concerns,like the Cold War. @ 30 min. 1919Connecticut Ave. NW. y 202/483-3000. www.hilton.com. Metro: DupontCircle.2 Woodrow Wilson House.This final residence of Nobel PeacePrize winner and 28th presidentWoodrow Wilson has been pre-served to celebrate the great man’s“Washington years,” from 1913 to1924. It is where he returned tocivilian life after his 8-year termPresident Woodrow Wilson’s original office desk.
53HistoricWashingtonguiding Americans through WorldWar I, giving women the right tovote, and launching the League ofNations (now known as the UnitedNations). He lived the last 3 years ofhis life at this grand brick house.Inside, tour his drawing room,kitchen, bedrooms, and garden.@ 1 hr. See p 87.3 3321 Dent Place. If you are aJFK buff, you’ll want to explore boththe east and west villages of George-town—Wisconsin Avenue dividesthe historic neighborhood into twoenclaves—to check out where the35th president once lived, in somecases with his glamorous wife,Jackie, and their two children, Caro-line and John, Jr. Between Januaryand June 1954, 3321 Dent Place wasthe first residence of Senator andMrs. Kennedy after their marriage inSeptember 1953. @ 10 min.4 2808 P St. After a stint in Vir-ginia, the Kennedys moved back toGeorgetown, to this tony address,where they lived from January toMay 1957. @ 10 min.5 3307 N St. JFK purchased thishome and presented it to Mrs. Ken-nedy after the birth of their daughter,President John F. Kennedy and JacquelineKennedy’s former residence inGeorgetown.The “star-spangled banner” that inspiredthe national anthem.Caroline. From here, they moved tothe White House on January 20,1961. @ 10 min.6 Octagon Museum. The Octa-gon is one of the oddest-lookingbuildings in downtown D.C., and itshistory is just as intriguing. Built in1799 for the Tayloe family, the build-ing served as a temporary home toJames and Dolley Madison after theWhite House was burned by theBritish in 1814. Ironically, the Treatyof Ghent, ending war with GreatBritain, was signed on its secondfloor. The Octagon was also a girls’school and a tenement and is pres-ently home to the American Archi-tectural Foundation. @ 1 hr. 1799New York Ave. NW. y 202/626-7439. www.theoctagon.org. Openfor self-guided audio tours Thurs–Fri,1–4pm. Metro: Farragut West.7 ★★ Washington Monu-ment. In 1838, architect RobertMills designed the largest—and per-haps most famous—masonry struc-ture in the world, the 550-foot(168m) Washington Monument hon-oring George Washington. While itnow resembles a solitary andunadorned Egyptian obelisk, Millsoriginally intended the marble shaftto rise from a circular building con-taining a huge statue of the firstAmerican president. After muchbickering over its design, years of
54TheBestSpecial-InterestToursguided tour. @ 1 hr. 15th St. SW.y 202/426-6841, or 800/967-2283(for reservations). www.nps.gov/wamo. Free timed tickets are avail-able at the 15th St. kiosk on a first-come, first-served basis. Advancedtickets are available through theNational Park Service. Ticketsrequired for everyone 2 and up.Daily 9am–4:45pm. Closed July 4thand Dec 25. Metro: Smithsonian.8 ★★★ Star-Spangled Banner.O, say can you see the garrison flagthat has come to represent our coun-construction, and halted progressduring the Civil War (which led to itstwo-tone marble effect, still visibletoday), the monument was finallycompleted and opened to the publicon October 9, 1888. An earthquakein August 2011 shook the Monu-ment so badly that trips to the topfor spectacular views of the Mall aretemporarily suspended; once itreopens in 2014, those dying towalk up and down its 897 steps cando so again, provided that they firstcontact the National Park Service atleast a month in advance for aMartha Stewart’s kitchen at the Museum of American History.Cultural Tourism DC offers a series of guided and self-guidedtours throughout the District. Bus tours include tailored itineraries forindividual groups, planned in advance with CTDC; “anecdotal” historytours conducted by author/historian guide Anthony Pitch; neighbor-hood tours of U Street and Capitol Hill; even a city segway tour, onwhich—you guessed it—travelers sightsee on segways. Self-guidedwalking tours include the U Street Heritage Trail, where visitors follownumbered signs with information about this historic neighborhood;the Downtown Heritage Trail, which guides tourists though high andlow points in D.C. history, from the Civil War through the Civil Rightsera; and the Adams Morgan Heritage Trail, a walk through this vibrantcommunity of artists, immigrants, and start-up entrepreneurs. Toplan a specialized tour, sign up for a bus tour, or learn how to take aself-guided walking tour, visit www.culturaltourismdc.org.Walk Through History
55HistoricWashingtonJoin in the weekday lunch rush atthe 0★★ Occidental, adjacentto the Willard InterContinental,which welcomes a virtual who’swho of Washington. Romanticsyearn for the hotel’s Jenny LindRoom, named for a racy 19th-cen-tury opera singer; the suite’s ele-vated Jacuzzi sits below a largewindow that perfectly frames theWashington Monument in all its ver-tical glory. 1475 Pennsylvania Ave.NW (at 14th St.). y 202/783-1475.www.occidentaldc.com. $$$$.Metro: Metro Center.InterContinental, which, at presstime, had welcomed every presidentfrom Pierce through “W.” It is theplace where the Rev. Martin LutherKing, Jr. wrote his legendary “I Havea Dream” speech. President UlyssesS. Grant held frequent meetings inthe hotel lobby, and a host of celeb-rity visitors from Walt Whitman toP. T. Barnum have also overnightedhere. Steven Spielberg even shot thefinal scene of The Minority Reportwith contemporary Hollywoodheavyweight Tom Cruise here. It’sworth ducking inside to admire theawe-inspiring lobby. See p 166.try and its democratic ideals? You’llfind it and its companion exhibit,“The Flag That Inspired the NationalAnthem,” at the newly reopenedNational Museum of American His-tory. Backstory: In 1814, FrancisScott Key peered through the clear-ing smoke after a 25-hour Britishbombardment of Baltimore’s FortMcHenry and saw this very flag flap-ping proudly in the wind. He immedi-ately wrote a poem that was set tomusic and sung at the country’spatriotic events ever after. In 1907,the worn and tattered but powerfullysymbolic flag was donated to themuseum; in 1931, the song becameour national anthem. After undergo-ing several years of preservation, theflag is now resting in its new high-tech atrium in the museum, designedto keep it carefully protected but stillallow throngs of visitors to see thisimportant American artifact. @ 30min. 14th St. and Constitution Ave.NW. y 202/633-1000. www.americanhistory.si.edu. Daily 10am–5:30pm (until 7:30pm in summer).Metro: Smithsonian and FederalTriangle.9 Willard InterContinental.Beaux-Arts architecture meets his-tory at the formal, elegant WillardBooth’s murder weapon.
56TheBestSpecial-InterestToursround the world was fired here onApril 14, 1865, when PresidentAbraham Lincoln was killed as hewatched a performance of OurAmerican Cousin. The theater wasimmediately closed, and remainedso for another 103 years. In 1968,it reopened as a living, workingtribute to our late leader, serving asa functioning playhouse and a Lin-coln repository for historic materialssuch as assassin John WilkesBooth’s Derringer pistol, the gunthat killed the president. In 2006,the theater closed once again forrenovations and reopened in early2009, with an expanded museum onthe president, plus a new lobby, boxoffice, and seating. @ 11⁄2 hr., ormore if you plan to see a show. 51110th St. NW. y 202/347-4833.! ★★ Ford’s Theatre NationalHistoric Site. Another shot heardA sculpture at the Sewall-Belmont House.Easily accessible from the District, George Washington’sMount Vernon Estate and Gardens, 3200 Mount Vernon Memo-rial Hwy. (y 703/780-2000; www.mountvernon.org), is 16 miles(26km) south of the capital. Educational and appealing to kids andadults alike, this impressive historic homestead is where the firstpresident and his wife, Martha, lived from their wedding in 1759until Washington’s death 40 years later. Tour the main house andsee Washington’s library, the dining room and parlors, and the bed-rooms. The plantation’s outbuildings include the kitchen, smoke-house, storeroom, overseer’s house, and the cramped slaves’quarters, a somber testament to a dark period in U.S. history. Anon-site museum and visitors center has more than 500 artifactsfrom the Washington family, including furnishings, china, silver,clothing, jewelry—even Revolutionary War artifacts and rare books.Activities, from musical events to garden parties, take place year-round. To reach Mount Vernon, take the Metro Rail Yellow Line(y 202/637-7000; www.wmata.com) to Huntington Station, Vir-ginia. Exit at the lower level to catch a Fairfax Connector(y 703/339-7200) bus no. 101 (Fort Hunt Line) for the 20-minutetrip to Mount Vernon. Admission is $15 adults, $14 seniors, $7 kids6 to 11, and free for kids 5 and under. The site is open to visitorsApril to August daily (8am–5pm), March and September to Octoberdaily (9am–5pm), and November to February daily (9am–4pm).Mount Vernon
57HistoricWashingtonprogress. Check out authentic picket-ing banners, 5,000 prints and photo-graphs, original cartoons, more than50 scrapbooks from early suffragists,paintings, sculptures, publications,and more. @ 1 hr. By docent touronly. See p 99.$ ★ Library of Congress. Origi-nal presidential documents, plusphotographs, multimedia, and morecan be found at the Library of Con-gress, which houses the most com-prehensive collection of archivalmaterial documenting this country’sbirth and growth as a nation. Itoccupies three adjacent buildingson Capitol Hill: the Thomas JeffersonBuilding (1897), the John C. AdamsBuilding (1938), and the James Madi-son Building (1981). Docent-led,scheduled public tours depart Mon-day through Saturday, from theGreat Hall of the Thomas JeffersonBuilding, at 10:30am, 11:30am,1:30pm, 2:30pm, and 3:30pm.@ 1 hr. Arrive 30 min. before tourbegins. 101 Independence Ave. SE.www.loc.gov. Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm,except federal holidays. Metro: Capi-tol South or Union Station.% Frederick DouglassNational Historic Site. Born aslave, Frederick Douglass escapedwww.fordstheatre.org. Advance tick-ets $2.50. Limited number of freetickets available on first come, firstserved basis at 8:30am. Daily 9am–5pm, except Dec 25. Metro: MetroCenter.@ ★★★ National Portrait Gal-lery. While the building itself hasa rich history—it served as theNational Patent Office for 92 years—the Gallery’s contents might be con-sidered even more important. Someof the most treasured paintings,sculptures, and artifacts from Ameri-can history are housed in this ode toits presidents, first ladies, and stars.See the original Gilbert Stuart por-trait of George Washington, savedby Dolley Madison in the War of1812, along with modern depictionsof Richard Nixon, John F. Kennedy,and even Barack Obama. @ 1 hr.8th and F sts. NW. y 202/633-8300.www.npg.si.edu. Free admission.Daily, 11:30am–7pm, except Dec 25.Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.# Sewall-Belmont House.Including the works and words of“radicals” such as Susan B. Anthonyand Gloria Steinem, this museumtraces the evolution of a revolution—the women’s movement, in all of itsfits, starts, and back-and-forwardThe Frederick Douglass National Historic Site, in Anacostia.
58TheBestSpecial-InterestToursTuck into a booth at &Martin’sTavern in Georgetown and you’ll betransported to a time when HarryTruman, Lyndon Johnson, and evenRichard Nixon regularly held courtin the tiny pub. Opened in 1933 andstill owned by the Martin family, it’sa standby among locals for dinnerand drinks. Don’t miss the “pro-posal” booth, where JFK is rumoredto have proposed to Jackie. 1264Wisconsin Ave. NW; y 202/333-7370. www.martins-tavern.com.$–$$. No Metro Access. Cabs avail-able on Wisconsin Ave.•then downtown. After a restorationby the National Trust for HistoricPreservation, this presidential land-mark debuted to the public in 2008and began offering 1-hour guidedtours. The cottage is a straight shotup the Green Line on the Metro, andis well worth the detour if you canspare the time. @ 2 hr. includingcommute. Rock Creek Church Rd.NW and Upshur St. NW. y 202-829-0436. Metro: Georgia Avenue/Pet-worth then taxi (to the Armed ForcesRetirement Home campus, EagleGate entrance).his circumstances to become, asPresident Lincoln once said, “themost meritorious man” of the 19thcentury. An outspoken abolitionist,a feminist, a human-rights pioneer,an ambassador, a minister, a familyman, and the father of the CivilRights movement, Douglass settledhere in southeast D.C. at a home hecalled Cedar Hill, where his personalbelongings are now on display.National Park Service rangers leadtours of the house, sharing the sto-ries and legacy of this importantAmerican icon. @ 1 hr. 1411 W St.SE. y 202/426-5961. Free admis-sion. Daily Apr 1–Oct 31 9am–5pm;Nov 1–Mar 31 9am–4:30pm. ClosedJan 1, Thanksgiving, and Dec 25.Metro: Anacostia, then bus no. 2,which stops in front of the house.^ ★★ Lincoln’s Cottage. Whenthe sweltering heat of D.C. got to betoo much for President Lincoln andhis family, they retreated to this cot-tage, originally known as the Sol-dier’s Home. Each June throughNovember during 1862 to 1864, theLincolns would take in the coolbreezes from this house, on thethird-highest area in Washington,3 miles (5km) north of what wasMount Vernon, the former home of President George Washington.
3 The Best Museums
60TheBestMuseumsNational Gallery of ArtPrevious page: A stuffed tiger at the Museum of Natural History in D.C.WestGardenCourtEastGardenCourtWestBuilding ShopGardenCaféLectureHallRotundaEastSculpture HallWestSculpture HallMicroGalleryFounders’RoomWestGardenCourtEastGardenCourtWestBuilding ShopGardenCaféLectureHallRotundaEastSculpture HallWestSculpture HallMicroGalleryFounders’RoomWEST BUILDING/GROUND FLOORWEST BUILDING/MAIN FLOORConstitution Ave. NWMadison Dr. NWNationalSculpture Garden4thSt.NWPennsylvania Ave. NWNational Gallery of Art(West Building) (East Building)9thSt.NWIce Rink3rdSt.NWMallEntranceConstitution Ave. NWMadison Dr. NWNationalSculpture Garden4thSt.NWPennsylvania Ave. NWNational Gallery of Art(West Building) (East Building)9thSt.NWIce Rink3rdSt.NWMallEntrance7thSt.NW7thSt.NWN A T I O N A L M A L LN A T I O N A L M A L L6th St. and Constitution Ave.Entrance4thSt.PlazaEntrance7thSt.EntranceMall Entrance12345798612 141310 11Leonardo’s Ginevra de’ Benci (Gallery 6)Raphael’s Saint George and the Dragon (Gallery 20)El Greco’s Christ Cleansing the Temple (Gallery 28)Velázquez’s The Needlewoman (Gallery 34)Vermeer’s Woman Holding a Balance (Gallery 50C)Monet’s Rouen Cathedral, West Facade (Gallery 87)Monet’s Woman with a Parasol (Gallery 85)Van Gogh’s Self Portrait (Gallery 84)Gauguin’s Parau na te Varua ino (Gallery 83)Calder’s Untitled (East Bldg. Gallery 100 Ceiling)Cascade Café (East Bldg. Concourse)Picasso’s Nude Woman (East Bldg. Upper-Level Gallery 404C)O’Keeffe’s Jack-in-the-Pulpit No. 3 (East Bldg. Upper-Level Gallery 404E)Pollock’s Number 1 (Lavender Mist) (East Bldg. Concourse Gallery 29H)1234567111291081413CafeCoat RoomInformationMuseum ShopTelephoneWheelchairAccessibility
61NationalGalleryofArta pun on her name) symbolizeschastity, and the reverse side of thepainting bears the motto “BeautyAdorns Virtue.” Gallery 6.2 ★★ Raphael’s Saint Georgeand the Dragon (1506). EarlyItalian Renaissance painter Raphaelcreated this work for the royal courtof Urbino. In it, a Roman soldier ofChristian faith subdues a dragon to1 Leonardo’s Ginevra de’Benci (1474). Leonardo da Vinci’sportrait of a wealthy young Floren-tine woman, one of the mostesteemed intellectuals of her day,was probably commissioned byVenetian ambassador to FlorenceBernardo Bembo, with whom thesitter had a platonic affair (anaccepted Renaissance convention).The juniper plant (ginepro in Italian,Founded in 1937 by philanthropist Andrew Mellon withseed works from his personal collection, the National Gallery isone of the finest repositories of Western painting, sculpture, andgraphic art on Earth. And, unlike most museums of its ilk, it’s free tovisitors. The collection ranges from revered early Renaissance paint-ings, including the only Leonardo da Vinci painting in the UnitedStates, to works by contemporary artists such as Ellsworth Kelly. Youwill recognize many a masterpiece as you make your way throughthe galleries, organized by school and arranged chronologically. Thefollowing itinerary features hallmark paintings of the collection. Planto spend a couple of hours here; art lovers may want to linger anafternoon or a day. For more extensive coverage of modern andcontemporary works, see “19th- & 20th-Century Art Museums” onp 72. START: Metro to Archives, Judiciary Square, or SmithsonianThe National Gallery (y 202/737-4215; www.nga.gov) is locatedon the Mall between 3rd and 7th streets. Admission is free. It’s openMonday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm and Sunday 11am to6pm; closed December 25 and January 1.Practical MattersVisitor viewing Ginevra de’ Benci, the best-preserved example of Leonardo da Vinci’searly work.
62TheBestMuseums6 ★ Monet’s Rouen Cathedral,West Facade (1894). Artists’obsessions with the Impressionistmovement began to waver in the mid-1880s, when many, including Monet,broke away and began a series ofpaintings on one object. Here, Monetfocuses on the Rouen Cathedral, ofwhich he created more than 20 repre-sentations during his time spent inrented rooms across from it. Thisimage reflects Monet’s interest inlight, texture, color, and mood. Gal-lery 87.7 ★★★ Monet’s Woman witha Parasol (1875). Impressionismwould certainly win a recognitioncontest if pitted against other artmovements, and Claude Monet justmight take the prize for the mostpopular artist. This well-knownpainting demonstrates his masteryof light, landscape, and vibrantcolor. Gallery 85.8 Van Gogh’s Self Portrait(1889). One of 36 self-portraits fromthis prolific artist, this work is thoughtto have been produced in a singlesitting without retouching. Van Goghportrays himself at work, dressed asan artist. It is one of the last self-portraits he ever painted. Gallery 84.9 Gauguin’s Parau na teVarua ino (Words of theDevil; 1892). Paul Gauguinescaped to Tahiti and fell in lovewith its innocent, unspoiled culture.save a pagan princess, whose sur-vival inspires a mass conversion toChristianity among her subjects. Gal-lery 20.3 El Greco’s Christ Cleansingthe Temple (1570). In this inter-pretation of the Protestant Reforma-tion, the Spanish painter El Grecopresents an angry Christ, emphasiz-ing the widespread aggravation withthe Catholic church’s decisions atthe time. His techniques for depict-ing space and three-dimensional fig-ures were far more advanced thanthose of his Byzantine contempo-raries, marking a turning point in hisartistic career. Gallery 28.4 Velázquez’s The Needle-woman (1640). Spain’s goldenage of painting is best representedby the works of Diego Velázquez,one of the greatest masters of 17th-century Europe. The muted tones inthis unfinished work show a depar-ture from his earlier extreme con-trasts of light and dark. Gallery 34.5 Vermeer’s Woman Holdinga Balance (1664). With his char-acteristically delicate treatment oflight, Dutch master Johannes Ver-meer depicts a woman quietly goingabout her everyday work, her facialexpression serene. Seventeenth-century Dutch paintings oftenfocused on such themes, conveyingthe message that God’s work wasevident in the smallest or most incon-sequential of details. Gallery 50C.Sculptures in the National Gallery.
Enjoy views of a cascade waterfallwhile noshing on soups, salads,wood-fired pizzas, sandwiches,and fresh-baked desserts at the!Cascade Café. No phone. EastBuilding Concourse. $.63NationalGalleryofArt# ★★★ O’Keeffe’s Jack-in-the-Pulpit No. 3 (1930). GeorgiaO’Keeffe’s sensuously abstractedflowers celebrate nature and makean overt nod to the female form.This painting, along with three oth-ers, was bequeathed to the Galleryby O’Keeffe herself. East Building,Upper Level, Gallery 404E.$ ★★★ Pollock’s Number 1(Lavender Mist; 1950). Of hisspontaneous, intuitive innovation—pouring paint directly ontounprimed canvas—Jackson Pollockonce remarked, “There is no acci-dent.” Lavender Mist is one of theartist’s most important drip paint-ings, in which his long, rhythmicmovements are discernible. EastBuilding, Concourse Gallery 29H.His sense of paradise there—cou-pled with a biblical reference sug-gesting that Western civilization lostits chance at innocence and mod-esty with the fall of Adam and Eve—is evident in this classic nudepainting. Gallery 83.0 ★★★ Calder’s Untitled(1976). In 1972, Calder began con-structing this 76-foot-long (23m)mobile, commissioned specificallyfor the National Gallery’s East Build-ing. Installed in 1977, 1 year after hisdeath, it was the artist’s last majorwork of art. East Building, Gallery100 Ceiling.The Needlewoman, by Diego Velázquez,at the National Gallery.Johannes Vermeer’s Girl with the Red Hat, at the National Gallery.@ ★★★ Picasso’s NudeWoman (1910). One of the mostradical movements in art history canbe attributed in part to Spanishpainter Pablo Picasso, whose Cubistexplorations with Georges Braquecreated a window to a new, frac-tured sense of space and time. EastBuilding, Upper-Level Gallery 404C.
64TheBestMuseumsNational Museum ofNatural HistoryFIRST FLOOR2SECOND FLOORGROUNDFLOORG FL1FOSSILMAMMALSFOSSILABANCIENTSEASDINOSAURSFOSSILPLANTSICEAGEAFRICANVOICESDISCOVERYROOMROTUNDAHUMANORIGINSMAMMALSHUMANORIGINSLIVE BUTTERFLIES& PLANTSINSECTZOOBONESEARTH,MOON, METEORITESKOREA GALLERYEGYPTIANMUMMIESIMAXTHEATERWESTERNCULTURESIMAXTHEATERATRIUMCAFEOCEANHALLBIRDSOF D.C.SPECIALEXHIBITIONGALLERYGEOLOGY, GEMS& MINERALSBAIRDAUDITORIUMMall EntranceBIRDS OF D.C.(Ticket Level)(Exit Only)Escalators toRotundaEscalators toRotundaConstitution Ave. EntranceFOSSILMAMMALSFOSSILABANCIENTSEASDINOSAURSFOSSILPLANTSICEAGEAFRICANVOICESDISCOVERYROOMROTUNDAHUMANORIGINSMAMMALSHUMANORIGINSLIVE BUTTERFLIES& PLANTSINSECTZOOBONESEARTH,MOON, METEORITESKOREA GALLERYEGYPTIANMUMMIESIMAXTHEATERWESTERNCULTURESIMAXTHEATERATRIUMCAFEOCEANHALLBIRDSOF D.C.SPECIALEXHIBITIONGALLERYGEOLOGY, GEMS& MINERALSBAIRDAUDITORIUMMall EntranceBIRDS OF D.C.HopeDiamondHopeDiamondMineralsStoreMineralsStoreMammalsStoreMammalsStore(Ticket Level)(Exit Only)Escalators toRotundaEscalators toRotundaConstitution Ave. EntranceHall of DinosaursOcean HallHall of MammalsFossil CaféHall of Gems and MineralsInsect ZooIMAX Theater12356743465127ATMCafeCoat RoomElevatorsInformationMuseum ShopRest RoomsTelephoneWheelchairAccessibility
65MuseumofNaturalHistorygiant elephant, you’ll find the realJurassic Park, with its towering exhi-bitions of those fascinating, larger-than-life creatures from the distantpast—the dinosaurs. The collectionincludes a giant Diplodocus and thecomplete skeleton of an Allosaurus(think T. Rex, only smaller). Mounted throughout the Dino-saur Hall are replicas of ancientbirds, including a life-size model ofthe Quetzalcoatlus northropi, whichlived 70 million years ago, had a40-foot (12m) wingspan, and wasthe largest flying animal ever. Alsoresiding above this hall is the jaw ofan ancient shark, the Carcharodonmegalodon, which lived in theoceans 5 million years ago. A mon-strous 40-foot-long (12m) predatorwith teeth 5 to 6 inches (13–15cm)long, it could have consumed aVolkswagen Bug in one gulp.2 Ocean Hall. In late 2008, themuseum debuted a brand-new,22,000-square-foot (2,044-sq.-m)hall, the largest, most diverseexhibit of its kind in the world.1 ★★ Hall of Dinosaurs. If youhave young children, you mightwant to make your first stop thefirst-floor Discovery Room, which isfilled with creative hands-on exhibits“for children of all ages.” On the firstfloor, beyond the rotunda with itsKids go ape over this museum, “dedicated to understandingthe natural world and our place in it.” This vast repositoryhouses thousands of natural relics, some of which date back millionsof years. If you care to learn about global warming, African cultures,the social habits of insects, the Big Bang, or fossilized bones, youmight end up wishing you’d devoted your entire trip to the largest ofthe Smithsonian Institution’s 14 museums. Of the Smithsonian’s142 million objects, nearly 90%—that’s 125 million artifacts—belongto this museum. Give yourself a minimum of an hour to explore thisplace. START: Metro to Archives, Judiciary Square, or SmithsonianThe Museum of Natural History (y 202/633-1000; www.mnh.si.edu)is located on the north side of the Mall, on Constitution Avenue NWbetween 9th and 10th streets. Admission is free. The museum isopen daily from 10am to 5:30pm (until 7:30pm in summer; callahead to confirm), except December 25.Practical MattersThe National Museum of Natural History’sHope Diamond—the world’s largest deepblue diamond, a billion-plus years old.
Before heading up to the secondfloor, make a pit stop for a quicksandwich, snack, or even a cold oneat the 4Fossil Café. No phone.First Floor, in Dinosaur Hall. $.66TheBestMuseumssound, it features interactive diora-mas that explain how mammalsevolved and adapted to changes inhabitat and climate over millions ofyears. More than 270 stuffed mam-mals, including a polar bear and alion, are on display, along with adozen mammal fossils. From time totime, the hall erupts with animalsounds, all part of the curatorialwizardry that helps make your visita lifelike experience.Designed by the same firm that cre-ated the exhibits and spaces of thehighly interactive International SpyMuseum, the hall includes collec-tions and state-of-the-art technologyto demonstrate our oceans’ essen-tial role in life on Earth. Look for iceage animals and loads of fossilizedplants, among other preserved trea-sures. A model of a 45-foot-long(14m) North American right whaleand a 1,500-gallon (5,678L) coralreef aquarium with more than 70live animals and 674 specimens arealso big hits.3 Hall of Mammals. This exhibitrepresents the “new” face of themuseum: Set in the restored westwing, with up-to-date lighting andA stuffed elephant greets visitors to the Museum of Natural History.Visitors observing gems at the National Museum of Natural History.
6 ★ Insect Zoo. Also on the sec-ond floor, those with an interest increepy-crawlies can view live spi-ders, ants, millipedes, and centi-pedes up close, and learn whatmade the arthropods the animalkingdom’s biggest grouping. Kidsenjoy looking at tarantulas, centi-pedes, and the like, and crawlingthrough a model of an African ter-mite mound.7 IMAX Theater. You just mightjump out of your seat as nature’suntamed beasts come barreling atyou. Whether you are exploring thealiens of the deep oceans, taking awild safari, or visiting Harry Potter’sHogwarts School of Wizardry, hereyou’ll find the wonders of the world(and supernatural world) up closeand at their most thrilling. Filmsrotate regularly; check the websiteto see what’s playing during yourvisit.5 ★★★ Hall of Gems and Min-erals. On the second floor, theJanet Annenberg Hooker Hall ofGeology and Gems and Minerals fea-tures the infamous, cursed HopeDiamond. Legend has it that therare blue diamond was originallystolen in the late 17th century, in itsnative India, from a statue of theHindu goddess Sita. Following theincident, the object reputedlybrought bad luck to anyone whoclaimed it. From nasty French royalsLouis XVI and Marie Antoinette to aconsortium of wealthy playboys andsocialites, all either met untimelydeaths or watched their dearestloved ones die badly—very badly.Jeweler Harry Winston purchasedthe gem in 1947 and immediatelygave it to the museum, probablywith more than a little relief. Hereyou can also learn all you wantabout earth science, from volcanol-ogy to the importance of mining.Interactive computers, animatedgraphics, and a multimedia presen-tation of the “big picture” storyof the earth are among thefeatures that have advancedthe exhibit and themuseum a bit fur-ther into the 21stcentury.67MuseumofNaturalHistoryA stuffed leopard from theHall of Mammals, at theMuseum of Natural History.A T-Rex skeleton at the Museum of Natural History.
68TheBestMuseumsNational Museum ofAmerican History253641243561 Political HistoryGunboat PhiladelphiaMusic, Sports, andEntertainment HistoryStar-Spangled BannerAmerica on the MoveStars and Stripes Café3 EastAmericanWars andPolitics3 WestEntertainment,Sports andMusic2 WestAmericanLives2 EastAmericanIdeals1 WestScience andInnovationLowerLevelServices1 EastTransportationandTechnologyTHE NATIONAL MALLCONSTITUTION AVENUEWelcomeCenterWelcomeCenterFlagHallOpen toFlag HallOpen toFlag HallCafeInformationMuseumShopElevatorEscalatorStairs
69MuseumofAmericanHistorycannons and numerousswivel guns. ThePhiladelphia wassunk in battle by theBritish in New York’sLake Champlain and remained atthe bottom of the lake’s Valcour Bayuntil 1935, when historians recov-ered it. The cold waters had kept itswood intact all those years, and itnow rests here, along with the24-pound (11kg) English cannonballthat sent it to the bottom of the bayover 200 years ago.3 ★★★ Music, Sports, andEntertainment History. Pop cul-ture icons get a front-row seat atthis museum. Even non-Hollywoodbuffs will appreciate X-Files memo-rabilia, Bruce Willis’s T-shirts fromDie Hard (he donated them to themuseum in 2007), Archie Bunker’sarmchair from the popular (and con-troversial) sitcom All in the Family,the original Kermit the Frog puppet,and a Dumbo the Flying Elephant1 ★★ Political His-tory. Throughout themuseum, you’ll find tonsof artifacts, documents,and photographs cele-brating the nation’spolitical and presi-dential greats. Thecollection rangesfrom election campaignposters and ballots, to first ladies’clothing, to the personal effects ofGeorge Washington, Thomas Jeffer-son, and Abraham Lincoln. You’ll seethe top hat Lincoln wore on April 14,1865, the night he was shot at Ford’sTheatre; the cloth banner honoringthe electoral victory of Thomas Jef-ferson over John Adams in 1800;and a Civil War surgical set. You’llalso see more recent artifacts, suchas a piece of the World Trade Centerfollowing the 9/11 attacks in 2001.2 Gunboat Philadelphia. Theonly surviving gunboat from theRevolutionary War, the Philadelphiais now on view on the museum’sthird floor. One of eight identicalships constructed, it measures 53feet (16m) long and 15 feet (4.5m)wide and was mounted with twoCalling all pop culture fans and American history buffs: Thisseriously entertaining Smithsonian museum is home to more thanthree million national treasures. Check out Dizzy Gillespie’s angledtrumpet, Dorothy’s ruby red slippers, Julia Child’s kitchen, andMuhammad Ali’s boxing gloves. The original flag that inspired thenational anthem is here, too, housed in a new high-tech gallery dedi-cated to its preservation. Plan to spend a few hours soaking up yourfill of good ole Americana. START: Metro to SmithsonianThe National Museum of American History (y 202/633-1000;www.americanhistory.si.edu) is located on the National Mall at 14thSt. Admission is free. The museum is open daily from 10am to5:30pm (until 7:30pm in summer), closed December 25.Practical MattersPresident Abraham Lincoln’sfamous top hat at theNational Museumof American History.
70TheBestMuseumsbut at its conclusion, this “flag wasstill there.” The poignant sight of itsbattle-weary stripes and starsinspired Francis Scott Key to writeThe Defence of Fort McHenry, apoem that would eventually becomethe nation’s National Anthem, titledThe Star-Spangled Banner. TheSmithsonian acquired the flag in1907, and it has been undergoingrestoration at the museum eversince. The exhibit was an integralpart of the museum’s recent reno-vation, and the nearly 200-year-oldflag is now housed in a new, interac-tive gallery. The temperature andride from 1955 Disneyland. An auto-graphed Babe Ruth baseball; a 1989Nintendo Gameboy; Julia Child’sentire kitchen from her Cambridge,Massachusetts, home (donatedpart-and-parcel by the cook in 2001when she moved residences); andthe R2-D2 and C-3PO robots fromthe 1983 George Lucas blockbusterReturn of the Jedi are just somemore of the favorites found in thismuseum’s vast collection.4 ★★★ Star-Spangled Ban-ner. The British bombardment ofBaltimore’s Fort McHenry on Sep-tember 14, 1814, lasted 25 hours,The Star-Spangled Banner gallery at the Museum of American History.The Gunboat Philadelphia at the Museum of American History.
Tour the museum and then head tothe aptly named 6 Stars andStripes Café on the lower level fora culinary slice of Americana: basicsoups, salads, burgers, pizza, anddesserts. No phone. $–$$.71MuseumofAmericanHistoryincluding railway markers, signs,and photographs—are displayed inperiod settings to illustrate howAmerica’s railroad, canals, and roadschanged the way its people traveled.lighting of the special chamber inwhich it lies are regulated to protectthe 30 x 34 foot (9 x 10m) flag fromfurther wear and tear, and the multi-story gallery with floor-to-ceilingglass windows is designed to givevisitors a sense of the same “dawn’searly light” that Key observed thatmorning in the harbor near FortMcHenry. The surrounding installa-tion chronicles the story behind theflag’s missing pieces, the Smithson-ian’s preservation efforts, and thenational history that this artifactrepresents.5 ★ America on the Move. Doyou still reminiscence about yourfirst muscle car? It’s likely repre-sented here, along with a ChicagoTransit Authority car, a 1903 Winton(the first car driven across the U.S.),a 92-foot-long (28m) Southern Rail-way locomotive, and even 40 feet(12m) of the American Southwest’srenowned Route 66. Motor on downto the ground floor of the museumto see the nearly 20 life-size diora-mas depicting America’s transithistory, from the first coveredwagons that braved the Wild Westto motor vehicles whose brethrenstill ply Route 66 and I-95 today.A range of some 300 artifacts—Vintage truck in the America on theMove exhibit at the Museum ofAmerican History.Southern Railway’s 1401 steam locomotive, in the America on the Move exhibit at theMuseum of American History.
72TheBestMuseums5011395395292929291MMMMMMMMMMMMMM MTidal BasinWashingtonChannelReflecting PoolPotomacRiverFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianShaw–Howard U.McPhersonSquareK St. NWK St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NWI St. NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW21stSt.NWR St. NWU St. NWU St. NWRhode IslandAve.NWM St. NWL St. NWL St. NWS St. NWO St. NWFlorida Ave. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW14thSt.SWAve.NWVermont9thSt.NW7thSt.NW7thSt.NW6thSt.NW5thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWVirginia Ave. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NW17thSt.NW15thSt.NWNewYorkAve.NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWMadison Dr. NW4thSt.NW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SWG St. NWG St. NWMassachusettsAve.NWH St. NWOhioDr.SWJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWI St. SWC St. SWD St. SWS St. NWFloridaAve. NWIndependence Ave. SWIndependence Ave. SWMaineAve.SWMaineAve.SWPennsylvaniaAve. NWPennsylvaniaAve. NWScottCircleThomasCircleMt. VernonSquareFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleLoganCircleFreedomPlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LTheEllipseSculptureGardenFranklin Sq.LafayetteSquareCherryTreesJohn MarshallParkWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialNational Galleryof ArtWorld War IIMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialKorean War VeteransMemorialFDRMemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYHOWARDUNIVERSITYGeorge MasonMemorialWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLEDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOMU STREET CORRIDORCHINATOWNConnecticutAve.NWGeorgiaAve.NWTidal BasinWashingtonChannelReflecting PoolPotomacRiverFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianShaw–Howard U.McPhersonSquareK St. NWK St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NWI St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW21stSt.NWR St. NWU St. NWU St. NWRhode IslandAve.NWM St. NWL St. NWL St. NWS St. NWO St. NWFlorida Ave. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW14thSt.SWAve.NWVermont9thSt.NW7thSt.NW7thSt.NW6thSt.NW5thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWVirginia Ave. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NW17thSt.NW15thSt.NWNewYorkAve.NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWMadison Dr. NW4thSt.NW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SWG St. NWG St. NWMassachusettsAve.NWH St. NWOhioDr.SWJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWI St. SWC St. SWD St. SWGeorgiaAve.NWS St. NWFloridaAve. NWIndependence Ave. SWIndependence Ave. SWMaineAve.SWMaineAve.SWPennsylvaniaAve. NWPennsylvaniaAve. NWScottCircleThomasCircleMt. VernonSquareFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleLoganCircleFreedomPlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LTheEllipseSculptureGardenFranklin Sq.LafayetteSquareCherryTreesJohn MarshallParkWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialNational Galleryof ArtWorld War IIMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialKorean War VeteransMemorialFDRMemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYHOWARDUNIVERSITYGeorge MasonMemorialWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLEDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOMCHINATOWNU STREET CORRIDOR512643Phillips CollectionCorcoran Gallery of ArtHirshhorn Museum& Sculpture GardenPavilion CaféNational Gallery of Art,East BuildingKreeger Museum1563241/4 mi00 0.25 km19th- & 20th-CenturyArt Museums
7319th-&20th-CenturyArt2 ★★★ Corcoran Gallery ofArt. Founded by William WilsonCorcoran, a “leading patron” ofAmerican art, the Corcoran containsa wildly varied selection of enve-lope-pushing contemporary artalongside 18th- and 19th-centurymasterworks. Here, you can admireGeorge Washington, one of the leg-endary portraits by 18th-centuryartist Gilbert Stuart, and then walk amere few steps away to analyzeAndy Warhol’s Mao. Highlights include Edward Hop-per’s Ground Swell (1939), EdgarDegas’s The Dance Class (1873),Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot’s Repose(1860), John Singer Sargent’s Mrs.Henry White (1883) and Setting Outto Fish (1878), Frederic Remington’sOff the Range (1902), and Mary Cas-satt’s Young Girl at a Window (1883).@ 1 hr. 500 17th St. NW. y 202/639-1700. www.corcoran.org.1 Phillips Collection. The build-ing that houses the Phillips Collec-tion, widely considered America’sfirst museum of modern art, wasonce the home of Duncan Phillips,grandson of the cofounder of theJones and Laughlin Steel Company.The modern-looking newer winggenerally shows fresh exhibitions;the museum also plays host to spe-cial lectures and tours. Some of its2,472 artworks include Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s Luncheon of theBoating Party (1880–81), Vincentvan Gogh’s The Road Menders inSaint Remy (1889), Edgar Degas’sDancers at the Barre (1884–88), andGeorges Rouault’s Christ & the HighPriest (1937). @ 1 hr. 1600 21st St.NW. y 202/387-2151. www.phillipscollection.org. Admission pricesvary per exhibition. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm (Thurs to 8:30pm); Sun 11am–6pm (June–Sept to 5pm).In a world where what’s considered current changes at anever-faster pace—“That’s, like, so 30 seconds ago!”—it’s refreshingto view the art of the 1800s and 1900s, still thought of as modern, ifnot so subversive, well into the 21st century. It’s also fun to put thoseart history classes to the test. START: Metro to Dupont Circle (Q St. exit)Visitor viewing Renoir’s famous Luncheon of the Boating Party at the Phillips Collection.
74TheBestMuseumsThe 4Pavilion Café is a cafeteria-style lunch spot that serves salads,veggie wraps, grilled meats, sand-wiches, pizza, espresso drinks, andyummy baked goods near theNational Gallery of Art SculptureGarden. Dine outdoors on warm days,or admire the ice-skating rink on coldones from within the cafe’s cozy,family-friendly interior. 9th St. andConstitution Ave. NW (near Sculp-ture Garden). y 202/289-3360. $.5 ★★★ National Gallery ofArt, East Building. The trade-marks of this 1978 I. M. Pei–designedbuilding are its adjoining triangles ofpink Tennessee marble (from thesame quarry as the exterior of theneoclassical West Wing) that formsharp, acute angles at the corners.Inside, the centerpiece is the76-foot-long (23m), 920-pound(417kg) mobile by Alexander Calderthat hangs from the ceiling of theAdmission $10; $8 for students withID, free for children; Thurs 5–9pm ispay what you wish. Wed–Sun 10am–5pm (Thurs until 9pm); closed Monexcept holidays, Tues, Thanksgiving,Dec 25, and Jan 1.3 ★ Hirshhorn Museum &Sculpture Garden. First openedin 1974, the Hirshhorn Museum—built 14 feet (4.2m) aboveground onsculptured supports—is a uniquevessel for a singular collection ofmodern and contemporary art.Amassed around Latvian émigréJoseph Hirshhorn’s original donationof more than 9,500 works to theUnited States, the collection nowincludes art by Christo, Joseph Cor-nell, Arshile Gorky, and others. Inthe outdoor Plaza, visitors can gawkat the giant fountain and surrealsculptures. The Hirshhorn also has asculpture garden across the street,with some 60 works of art. Otherhighlights of this eclectic outdoorexhibition are Emile-Antonine Bour-delle’s Great Warrior of Montauban(1898–1900, cast 1956); AlexanderCalder’s Stabile-Mobile (1942) andDeux Discs (1965); Edward Hopper’sCity Sunlight (1954); Edgar Degas’sDancer Putting on a Stocking (1896);and Alberto Giacometti’s WalkingLouise Bourgeois’s Crouching Spider at the Hirshhorn Museum.Man II (1948). @ 1 hr. IndependenceAve. at 7th St. SW. y 202/633-4674.www.hirshhorn.org. Free admission.Daily 10am–5:30pm; plaza 7:30am–5:30pm, except Dec 25; sculpturegarden 7:30am–dusk.
7519th-&20th-CenturyArt6 Kreeger Museum. This pri-vate museum is housed in the for-mer residence of David and CarmenKreeger, well-known collectors whoamassed a sizable holding of 19th-and 20th-century paintings andsculptures. Highlights include worksby Monet, van Gogh, Pissarro, Rodin,Kandinksy, and Cézanne. As youtour the museum, take note of itsown modern architecture. Designedby architect Philip Johnson, it fea-tures a steel and concrete framewith glass walls and a free-formdesign. @ 2 hr. including commute.2401 Foxhall Rd. NW; y 202/337-3050, ext. 10. Tour reservationsrequired (y 202/338-3552). $10adults; $7 students (with ID) andseniors over 65. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Sun–Mon, the month ofAug. www.kreegermuseum.org. NoMetro access.main atrium. Returned for displayafter restoration work, the mobile’sconstruction includes aluminum tub-ing and aluminum honeycomb pan-els, which allow its arms to slowlyand gracefully rotate. On the con-course hang nine color field paint-ings by Mark Rothko; with 295paintings and more than 650sketches, the National Gallery hasone of the largest collections ofRothko artwork in the world. In thetower of the East Building are large“cutouts” by Henri Matisse, featur-ing beautiful colored shapes onlarge white backgrounds; it’s one ofthe world’s biggest collections ofthese works as well. @ 1 hr. TheNational Mall, between 3rd and 7thsts. at Constitution Ave. NW.y 202/737-4215. www.nga.gov.Free admission. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 11am–6pm; closed Dec 25and Jan 1.Founded by businessman Charles Lang Freer and opened tothe public in 1923, the Freer and Sackler Galleries of Art are thevery first Smithsonian museums for fine arts. They house a world-renowned collection of artworks from China, Japan, Korea, andSoutheast Asia—as well as the largest collection of paintings byAmerican artist James McNeill Whistler, who so famously produceda study of his mama in her rocking chair (Whistler’s Mother, 1871).While Whistler’s work may strike some as a bit out of place in amuseum of Asian art, art lovers recognize how strongly influencedWhistler was by Japanese prints and Chinese ceramics. In fact, itwas Whistler himself who, after befriending Freer in 1890, con-vinced the collector of primarily American works to begin buying artfrom the East, which Freer bequeathed to the museum. Whistlerfans will be thrilled to learn that the Freer houses more than 1,300paintings and drawings by this principal American artist. @ 11⁄2 hr.Jefferson Dr. at 12th St. SW. y 202/633-4880. www.asia.si.edu. Free admis-sion. Daily 10am–5:30pm, except Dec 25.Whistler at the Freer Gallery of Art
76TheBestMuseums1395395395395MMMMMMMMMCapitolReflectingPoolUnionStationJudiciarySqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianNorthCapitolSt.14thSt.NW14thSt.SW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW12thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWConstitution Ave. NW15thSt.NW15thSt.SWPennsylvania Ave. NWConstitution Ave. NWF St.NWF St. NW F St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW1stSt.NW3rdSt.NW2ndSt.NW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW7thSt.SW10thSt.SWNewJerseyAve.NWG St. NWG St. NWMassachusetts Ave.NWJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWC St. SWD St. SWPennsylvania Ave.NWN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenBartholdiParkUnionStationPlazaJohnMarshallParkCapitolNat’l BuildingMuseumNat’lArchivesVerizonCenterNational Gallery of ArtNat’l Museum ofNatural HistoryNat’l Museum ofAmerican HistorySmithsonianCastleU.S. BotanicGardenFreer GallerySacklerGalleryHirshhornMuseumArts& IndustriesBuildingPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLECapitolReflectingPoolUnionStationJudiciarySqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianNorthCapitolSt.14thSt.NW14thSt.SW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW12thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWConstitution Ave. NWWaterS15thSt.NW15thSt.SWPennsylvania Ave. NWConstitution Ave. NWF St.NWF St. NW F St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW1stSt.NW3rdSt.NW2ndSt.NW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW7thSt.SW10thSt.SWNewJerseyAve.NWG St. NWG St. NWMassachusetts Ave.NWJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWC St. SWD St. SWPennsylvania Ave.NWN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenBartholdiParkUnionStationPlazaeesJohnMarshallParknalCapitolNat’l BuildingMuseumNat’lArchivesVerizonCenterNational Gallery of ArtNat’l Museum ofNatural HistoryNat’l Museum ofAmerican HistorySmithsonianCastleU.S. BotanicGardenFreer GallerySacklerGalleryHirshhornMuseumArts& IndustriesBuildingPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLE2341678532176485National Air and Space MuseumNational Museum of African ArtUnited States Holocaust Memorial MuseumNational Museum of the American IndianMitsitam Native Foods CaféNewseumNational Museum ofCrime and PunishmentNational Postal Museum1/4 mi00 0.25 kmSpecial-Interest MuseumsMaybe you fantasize about galaxies far, far away, or thespaceships that transport starry explorers. Perhaps you wantto learn more about another ethnic group’s art, culture, or history.Whatever your inclination may be, Washington, home to manyrenowned special-interest museums, can satisfy it. START: Metro toL’Enfant Plaza or Smithsonian1 ★★★ National Air andSpace Museum. The most visitedmuseum on the National Mall, thismonument to avionics holds some30,000 aviation artifacts and 9,000space artifacts. The Wright Broth-ers’ 1903 Flyer, the first successfulpowered airplane, is here, alongwith a reproduction of the originalsketches for the machine. A com-plete collection of planes fromWorld War II includes the famedSupermarine Spitfire Mk VII and aMitsubishi A6M5 Zero, and AmeliaEarhart’s red Lockheed Vega (theone she flew solo across the AtlanticOcean in 1932). For those moreinterested in the stars, the NationalAir and Space Museum holds anoriginal Apollo Lunar Module, one of12 built for the program; astronautand cosmonaut space suits; and, inone of the newest additions, Space-ShipOne, the first privately designedand built vehicle to reach space,and a harbinger of space tourism. Italso houses the Lockheed MartinIMAX Theater, where you can explorethe galaxies from the safety of yourtheater seat. @ 1 hr. IndependenceAve. at 6th St. SW. y 202/633-2214.www.nasm.si.edu. Free admission.
77Special-InterestMuseumsmaterial. There is also a museumshop, a cafe, and the Wexner Learn-ing Center on the second floor,where visitors can explore the survi-vors’ registry and view materialsabout topics such as the NurembergTrials and the contemporary geno-cide emergency in Darfur. @ 1 hr.100 Raoul Wallenberg Place SW.y 202/488-0400. www.ushmm.org.Free admission, but from Mar–Aug,timed passes are necessary for visit-ing the permanent exhibition, andcan be obtained at the museum onthe day of your visit or in advanceonline. Each day, the museum dis-tributes a large but limited numberof timed-entry passes, on a first-come, first-served basis, for use thatsame day. Daily 10am–5:20pm,except Yom Kippur and Dec 25.4 ★★ National Museum ofthe American Indian. The new-est big museum on the Mall is alsoone of the most distinctive, its exte-rior walls organically curved to sug-Daily 10am–5:30pm (until 7:30pm insummer), except Dec 25.2 National Museum ofAfrican Art. The only nationalmuseum solely dedicated to theacquisition, study, and exhibition ofAfrican art, this collection featuresboth traditional and contemporarypieces, including everything fromthe spiritual (a Koranic writing boardfrom Mali, an ivory pendant fromthe Congo) to the beautiful andpractical (a carved wood fly whiskhandle from Cote d’Ivoire). Ongoingexhibits include one focusing onAfrican textiles: woven tapestries,robes, and clothes with particularlynotable decorations and designs.Another exhibit features more than140 contemporary and traditionalceramics from the continent. Themuseum also features regular musicprograms and tours. @ 1 hr. 950Independence Ave. SW. y 202/633-4600. www.nmafa.si.edu. Freeadmission. Daily 10am–5:30pm,except Dec 25.3 ★★ United States Holo-caust Memorial Museum. Beprepared to take an emotional jour-ney when you enter this space, a liv-ing memorial to “never forgetting”the genocide of Europe’s Jews, andthe murder of all who opposed therise of Germany’s Nazi party, beforeand during World War II. Uponentering, you will be given (to keep)a faux passport of an actual Holo-caust victim; some survived, but thegreat majority did not. The muse-um’s centerpiece is its three-floorexhibit, entitled “The Holocaust.” It’sbroken up into three subsections:“Nazi Assault,” “Final Solution,” and“Last Chapter.” Through hundredsof artifacts and film footage, thestory of one of humankind’s biggesttragedies is laid out in exhaustivedetail. The museum recommendsthat visitors be 11 years of age orolder, due to the intensity of theThe National Museum of the AmericanIndian.
On the first floor of the Museum ofthe American Indian, 5 MitsitamNative Foods Café serves mealsbased on traditional Native Ameri-can cuisines. No phone. $–$$.78TheBestMuseums7–18, free for children 6 and under.Tickets good for 2 consecutive days.Metro: Archives/Navy Memorial.7 National Museum of Crimeand Punishment. CSI it’s not, butthis museum devoted to the historyof crime is as close to a real-lifeexperience as you can get (withoutall the danger). The hands-on exhib-its outline the history of crime fromthe pillaging of pirates and medievalknights to the infamous Wild Westoutlaws Bonnie and Clyde. Exhibitsinclude a full-scale model police sta-tion, a simulated FBI shooting range,and the actual television set ofAmerica’s Most Wanted. Try yourhand at cracking a safe or hackinginto a computer and see if you couldmake it as a crook. @ 1 hr. 575 7thSt. NW. y 202/393-1099. www.crimemuseum.org. Hours vary byday and season. Check website formore details. $20 adults, $15 chil-dren, $17 seniors and military.Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.8 National Postal Museum.Calling all stamp collectors: Nirvanaawaits you right next door to UnionStation. One of the world’s largeststamp collections resides at this odeto the U.S. Mail Service, establishedin 1886. Listen to tales of the earlyPony Express and browse a vastassortment of historical postage dat-ing back to the nation’s infancy, plusinternational stamps, the first pieceof correspondence to be flownacross the Atlantic, and some origi-nal 24-cent inverted stamps. @ 1 hr.2 Massachusetts Ave. NE. y 202/633-5555. www.postalmuseum.si.edu. Free admission. Daily 10am–5:30pm, except Dec 25. Metro: UnionStation.•gest rock worn down by water.Dedicated to preserving the cultureand history of Native Americans, themuseum is also one of the mosttechnologically advanced: Exhibitsroutinely incorporate video andother multimedia, including “OurLives,” which shows how NativeAmerican tribes live, striving to keeptheir ethnic identity, in contempo-rary times. @ 1 hr. 4th St. andIndependence Ave. SW. y 202/633-1000. www.nmai.si.edu. Free admis-sion. Daily 10am–5:30pm, exceptDec 25.6 ★★★ Newseum. All the newsthat’s fit to print and more can befound in this seven-level high-techmonument to journalism. The his-tory of news is told through interac-tive games and close-up views ofhundreds of publications. Hear first-person accounts from reportersin the field, see a comprehensivecollection of Pulitzer Prize–winningphotojournalists’ images, and dis-cover the secrets to electronic newsreporting. The “Be a Reporter”exhibit puts visitors in the hot seat:With a deadline looming and abreaking news story to report, graba microphone and test your skills infront of the camera. How would youfare as the next Walter Cronkite?@ 2 hr. 555 Pennsylvania Ave. NW.y 888/639-7386. www.newseum.org. Daily 9am–5pm, except Thanks-giving, Dec 25, and Jan 1. $22 adults,$18 seniors and students, $13 kids
4 The BestNeighborhood Walks
80TheBestNeighborhoodWalks1★★ Tryst is one of those coffee-houses whose regulars seem to livein the place—you almost expect tofind Ross, Rachel, Joey, and the gangcamped out in the corner. A bar, alounge, a diner, and a cafe, it shel-ters students doing homework; writ-ers on their laptops; artists hangingtheir work for sale; and mohawked8-year-olds running around, pastriesin hand. Opens very early, closesvery late. See p 148.Adams MorganMRockCreekWoodley Park–Zoo/Adams MorganWyomingAve. NWBelmontRd. NWBiltmore St. NWCalifornia St. NWMintwoodPl. NWVernon St.NWColumbia Rd. NWAdamsMillRd.NWWoodleyRd. NWWoodleyPl.NWCathedralAve.NW19thSt.NW16thSt.NW15thSt.NWConnecticutAve.NWLanier Pl. NWEuclid St. NWOntarioRd.NWU St. NWV St. NWKalorama Rd. NWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWFlorida Ave. NWFlorida Ave. NWCalifornia St. NWColumbiaRd.NW18thSt.NWConnecticutAve.NWCalvert St. NWKalorama Rd. NWBeach Dr. NWHarvard St. NWROCKCREEKPARKMeridianHillParkWalterPierceParkNATIONALZOOADAMS MORGANU STREET CORRIDORRockCreekWoodley Park–Zoo/Adams MorganWyomingAve. NWBelmontRd. NWBiltmore St. NWCalifornia St. NWMintwoodPl. NWVernon St.NWColumbia Rd. NWAdamsMillRd.NWWoodleyRd. NWWoodleyPl.NWCathedralAve.NW19thSt.NW16thSt.NW15thSt.NWConnecticutAve.NWLanier Pl. NWEuclid St. NWOntarioRd.NWU St. NWV St. NWKalorama Rd. NWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWFlorida Ave. NWFlorida Ave. NWCalifornia St. NWColumbiaRd.NW18thSt.NWConnecticutAve.NWCalvert St. NWKalorama Rd. NWBeach Dr. NWHarvard St. NWROCKCREEKPARKMeridianHillParkWalterPierceParkNATIONALZOOADAMS MORGANU STREET CORRIDORstartherefinish herestartherefinish here23615424615TrystThe Brass KnobSmash RecordsViolet BoutiqueThe DinerDistrict of ColumbiaArts Center31/4 mi00 0.25 kmPrevious page: Strolling through AdamsMorgan.If you love New York’s East Village, you’ll feel right at home inthis neighborhood, which is all about youthful verve, bohemianvalues, diversity, and a thriving street scene. Concentrate yourexplorations on 18th Street and the intersecting Columbia Avenuewhere you’ll discover authentic ethnic restaurants, girlie boutiques,funky lounges, coffeehouses with sidewalk seating, and young peo-ple on display in their various rebellious uniforms. START: Metro toWoodley Park–Zoo/Adams Morgan2 The Brass Knob. Looking forvintage decorative wares or the per-fect stained-glass accent for yourhome? Look no further than thisfunky shop featuring one-of-a-kindobjects from the 1800s to the early1900s. You’ll need plenty of time toperuse the store, filled with itemssuch as antique chandeliers, iron
81AdamsMorgan5 The Diner purports to offersomething for everyone, and it livesup to this claim with a full menu ofsalads, sandwiches, breakfast allday, and some of the best milk-shakes in the city. You’ll feelrecharged after visiting this casualneighborhood fixture in the heart ofAdams Morgan. 2453 18th St. NW.y 202/232-8800. www.dinerdc.com. Metro: Woodley Park/AdamsMorgan.6 District of Columbia ArtsCenter. Adams Morgan is one ofD.C.’s most eclectic neighborhoods,so where else would you find afunky art gallery and 50-seat theateramong bars and restaurants thatcater to the college scene? The non-profit DCAC features up-and-comingartists in an intimate theater space,while the 750-sq.-foot (70-sq.-m)gallery spotlights a revolving calen-dar of innovative works. @ 11⁄2 hr.2438 18th St. NW. y 202/462-7833.www.dcartscenter.org. Wed–Sun2–7pm. Metro: Woodley Park–Zoo/Adams Morgan.gates, and columns, down to thesmallest doorknob. @ 30 min. 231118th St. NW. y 202/332-3370.www.thebrassknob.com. Mon–Sat10:30am–6pm; Sun noon–5pm. Metro:Woodley Park/Adams Morgan.3 Smash Records. Spend anhour perusing the vinyl records, vin-tage clothing, and punk rock CDsfound in this hole-in-the-wall shop inthe heart of Adams Morgan. If youlove records, you won’t leaveempty-handed. @ 30 min. 231418th St., NW, 2nd Floor. y 202/38-SMASH (76274). www.smashrecords.com. Hours vary. Metro: WoodleyPark Zoo (then 30-min. walk).4 Violet Boutique. A variety ofaffordable styles and accessories,plus super-friendly and knowledge-able owner Julie Egermayer, havemade this funky shop on the maindrag of Adams Morgan a go-to forfashionistas. @ 30 min. 2439 18thSt. NW. y 202/621-9225. www.violetdc.com. Tues–Fri noon–8pm;Sat 11am–8pm; Sun 11am–6pm.Closed Mon. Metro: Woodley Park–Zoo/Adams Morgan.A mural in Adams Morgan.The streets of Adams Morgan are linedwith shops and hip cafes.
82TheBestNeighborhoodWalksKick off your day with breakfast at1 Commissary DC, a cozy res-taurant with outdoor tables thatserves fantastic food three meals aday. Food runs the gamut from deli-cious omelets to tuna melts and afish fry. If you’re lucky, snag a comfychair up front with pullout trays. It’llfeel like dining in your living room,only much better. 1443 P St. NW.(btw. N. 14th St. & N. 15th St.).y 202/299-0018. www.commissarydc.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinnerdaily. Metro: Dupont Circle.U Street Corridor/14th Street29startherestartherefinishherefinishhereMMWLINESShaw–Howard U.U Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoSwann St. NWRiggs St.NWWallach Pl.NWChurch St. NWCorcoran St. NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW10thSt.NWVermontAve.NW15thSt.NWU St. NWU St. NWV St. NWV St. NWW St. NWRhode IslandAve. NWRhode Island Ave. NWW St. NWU St. NW14thSt.NW8thSt.NWt.NW9thSt.NW8thSt.NW7thSt.NW6thSt.NWT St. NWR St. NWQ St. NW13thSt.NWGeorgiaAve.NWS St. NW S St. NWFloridaAve.NWLoganCircleHOWARDUNIVERSITYP St. NWWLINESShaw–Howard U.U Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoSwann St. NWRiggs St.NWWallach Pl.NWChurch St. NWCorcoran St. NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW10thSt.NWVermontAve.NW15thSt.NWU St. NWU St. NWV St. NWV St. NWW St. NWRhode IslandAve. NWRhode Island Ave. NWW St. NWU St. NW14thSt.NW8thSt.NWt.NW9thSt.NW8thSt.NW7thSt.NW6thSt.NW5thStNWT St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWP St. NW13thSt.NWGeorgiaAve.NWS St. NW S St. NWFloridaAve.NWLoganCircleHOWARDUNIVERSITY2546718910326791045183Commissary DCThe Gallerieson 14th StreetMiss Pixie’sHome RulePulp DCGreater U StreetHeritage TrailLincoln TheatreBen’s Chili BowlAfrican American Civil WarMemorial and MuseumHoward University1/4 mi00 0.25 kmThe riots of 1968—ignited by the assassination of MartinLuther King, Jr.—subjected the Corridor to 3 days of looting anddevastation. Once known as the grand and glorious “Black Broadway,”the strip was a shadow of its former self for decades afterward, betterknown for its crack houses than for its theater companies. FourteenthStreet, which intersects historic U Street and runs north to south, wasalso decimated during the riots. But new signs of life appeared in thelate 1990s in both of these areas: A frenzied real-estate boom broughthomesteaders to the neighborhood, and the requisite art galleries,trendsetting boutiques, scene-making cafes, and happening restau-rants followed. It’s best to start this walk after noon: No early openinghours here. START: Metro to Dupont Circle
83UStreetCorridor/14thStreetdogs” (oven mitts that look like yourmutt)? Of course you do! Look nofurther than this culinary-themedoutpost for creative, colorful kitchenand bar accessories. @ 30 min.1807 14th St. NW (at S St.). y 202/797-5544. www.homerule.com.Mon–Sat 11am–7pm; Sun noon–5:30pm. Closed holidays. AE, DISC,MC, V. Metro: Cardozo/U St.5 Pulp DC. This cozy card storehas a little something for everyone:gag gifts, stationery, fun totes,mugs, books, and candy. This D.C.mainstay of over 10 years is a one-stop shop for tchotchkes and irrev-erent knickknacks. @ 30 min. 180314th St. NW. y 202/462-7857.www.pulpdc.com.6 ★★ Greater U Street Heri-tage Trail. As you explore this2 The Galleries on 14thStreet. Explore D.C.’s emergingcontemporary art scene at this con-sortium of independent galleries.Begin your crawl at 1515 14th St.NW, which houses several talk-of-the-town galleries: G Fine Art(y 202/462-1601; www.gfineartdc.com), Hemphill Fine Arts (y 202/234-5601; www.hemphillfinearts.com), Adamson Gallery (y 202/232-0707; www.adamsongallery.org), and Curator’s Office (y 202/387-1008; www.curatorsoffice.com). Then check out Transformer,1404 P St. NW (y 202/483-1102;www.transformerdc.org) and Gal-lery plan b, down the block at 153014th St. NW (y 202/234-2711;www.galleryplanb.com). @ 2 hr.Metro: Cardozo/U St.3 Miss Pixie’s. Even if you don’tthink you need it, you’ll still have tohave it when you encounter thisfunky shop’s eclectic collection ofantiques, odd trinkets, and one-of-a-kind furniture cobbled from estatesales. The inventory rotates, so art-ful bookcases and retro chairs mightbe there one week and gone thenext. @ 30 min. 1626 14th St. NW.(between N. R St. & N. Corcoran St.).y 202/232-8171. www.misspixies.com. 11am-7pm daily. Metro: UStreet/Cardozo4 Home Rule. Need a milkfrother, stainless steel martinishaker, or a pair of “pot-holderCafé St.-Ex is a popular stop on the microbrewed beer circuit.Funky kitchenware at Home Rule.
84TheBestNeighborhoodWalksOpen since 1958, 8★★ Ben’sChili Bowl is a Washington institu-tion. If this old-time diner’s wallscould talk, they would speak vol-umes about notable figures such asMartin Luther King, Jr.; Redd Foxx;Bill Cosby; and others who’ve sat atthe Formica tables here. You justmight catch a celebrity inhaling aChili Half-Smoke—a quarter-poundhalf pork/half beef smoked sausagesmothered in chili, of course—witha side of chili fries and an iced tea.Tip: Ben’s is cash-only, but theyhave an ATM in back in case you getcaught short. 1213 U St. NW. y 202/667-0909. www.benschilibowl.com.$. Metro: Cardozo/U St. For sit-downdining, a bar, and expanded menu,head to the new Ben’s Next Door.1211 U St. NW. y 202/667-8880.www.bensnextdoor.com. $$. Metro:Cardozo/U St.9 ★ African American CivilWar Memorial and Museum.This museum uses photography,audiovisual presentations, and his-torical documents and artifacts tosection of town—the former homeof Duke Ellington and the vital heartof African-American culture in thecapital—you might notice 14poster-size signs, with historicalimages and compelling stories. Fol-low these visual cues for a 90-min-ute, self-guided tour of historic UStreet. The first sign is at 13th andU streets NW, near the Cardozo/UStreet Metro stop; each sign willdirect you to the next. Highlightsinclude the Thurgood Marshall Cen-ter for Service and Heritage (hometo the first African-American YMCA),the Whitelaw Hotel (the segregatedcapital’s first luxury hotel for AfricanAmericans), the revived BohemianCaverns (where the Ramsey LewisTrio recorded the album “InCrowd”), and the restored LincolnTheatre. Walkers are encouraged tofollow the trail at their own pace,sampling neighborhood character,businesses, and restaurants alongthe way. For more information, atimeline of historical U Street eventsand vintage photographs, stop inthe Greater U Street NeighborhoodVisitor Center, located at the startof the trail near the Cardozo/UStreet Metro stop. @ 11⁄2 hr. 1211U St. NW. y 202/661-7581. www.culturaltourismdc.org (click on“Tours & Trails”). Daily 10am–6pm.7 ★ Lincoln Theatre. The jewelof what was once called “BlackBroadway,” the Lincoln hosted thelikes of Ella Fitzgerald and Cab Callo-way before desegregation. Thetheater went dark in 1979 butreopened 15 years later and waseventually restored to its original1920s splendor. Today, it booksjazz, R & B, gospel, and comedyacts—even events such as the D.C.Film Festival. @ 11⁄2 hr., or more ifyou plan to see a show. 1215 U St.NW. y 202/397-SEAT (397-7328).For tours: 202/328-6000, ext. 220.www.thelincolntheatre.org. Tickets$20–$200. Metro: Cardozo/U St.Ben’s Chili Bowl.
85UStreetCorridor/14thStreeta school so involved in the CivilRights movement of the 1960s. Cur-rent enrollment hovers near 11,000,with more than 7,000 undergradu-ates. Famous alumni include Thur-good Marshall, Debbie Allen, Sean“P. Diddy” Combs, Marlon Wayans,and Roberta Flack. @ 20 min. 24006th St. NW. y 202/806-6100. www.howard.edu. Metro: Cardozo/U St.commemorate the estimated228,000-plus African-American sol-diers and sailors who fought, largelyunheralded, in the U.S. Civil War.Unveiled in 1998, the “Spirit of Free-dom” sculpture, 2 blocks away, hon-ors the sacrifices made by blacksoldiers and their families during thewar. Designed by Ed Hamilton, ofLouisville, Kentucky, it is also thefirst major artwork by an African-American sculptor to reside on fed-eral land in the capital. @ 45 min.1925 Vermont Ave. NW at U St.y 202/667-2667. www.afroamcivilwar.org. Free admission. Tues–Fri10am–6:30pm; Sat 10am–4pm; Sunnoon–4pm. Metro: Cardozo/U St.0 Howard University. Estab-lished in 1867 by a charter of theU.S. Congress, this educational insti-tution was named after General Oli-ver Howard, a Civil War hero andcommissioner of the Freedman’sBureau, which was instrumental inproviding funds for the upstart uni-versity. Howard U. has come to be abastion for the liberal and scientificarts, attracting the nation’s best andbrightest African-American studentsand other students of color, whoare proud to continue the legacy ofOne of the rare photos at the African American Civil War Museum.Stately, historic Howard University.
86TheBestNeighborhoodWalksDupont Circle29 29MMMFarragutNorthDupontCircleDupont CircleDecatur Pl. NWSwann St. NWChurch St. NWStepsL St. NWK St. NWN St. NWM St. NWM St. NWPenn18thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NWO St. NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thStNW22ndSt.NW23rdSt.NW24thSt.NW21stSt.NWS St. NWR St. NWRhode IslandAve. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWNewHampshireAve.NWMassachusettsAve.NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWS St. NWFloridaAve.NWScott CircleDupontCircleWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFarragutSquareROCKCREEKPARKROCK CREEKPARKDUPONTCIRCLEWESTENDEMBASSYROWRiggs Pl. NWConnecticutAve.NWCorcoran St. NWBancroft Pl. NWFarragutNorthDupontCircleDupont CircleBancroft Pl. NWDecatur Pl. NWSwann St. NWChurch St. NWCorcoran St. NWStepsRiggs Pl. NWL St. NWK St. NWN St. NWM St. NWM St. NWPenn18thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NWO St. NWConnecticutAve.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thStNW22ndSt.NW23rdSt.NW24thSt.NW21stSt.NWS St. NWR St. NWRhode IslandAve. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWNewHampshireAve.NWMassachusettsAve.NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWS St. NWFloridaAve.NWScott CircleDupontCircleWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFarragutSquareROCKCREEKPARKROCK CREEKPARKDUPONTCIRCLEWESTENDEMBASSYROWstartherestartherefinish herefinish here21391110548671234678911105Kramerbooks &Afterwords CaféPhillips CollectionWoodrow Wilson HouseDupont Memorial FountainCircaLou LouBlue MercuryBetsy FisherNational GeographicExplorer’s HallHank’s Oyster BarEighteenth Street Lounge1/4 mi00 0.25 kmCapitol Hill and the Mall may represent Washington to theworld, but for locals, Dupont Circle is the heart of the District—a central point for meeting, lunching, strolling, shopping, and peo-ple-watching. Famous for its gay-friendliness, it’s just plain oldfriendly to everyone, including visitors. Be sure to sit on a bench,rest your feet, and watch the world go by within the Circle itself, andogle the master artworks at Duncan Phillips’ private-home-turned-museum, The Phillips Collection (see below). For a nice mix of retail-ers, restaurants, bars, and clubs, check out Connecticut Avenue andnearby 17th Street. START: Metro to Dupont Circle1 ★★ Kramerbooks & After-words Café. Is it a restaurant? Abookstore? A coffeehouse? Openearly and late (all night on week-ends), it’s the perfect spot to chatover lattes, browse bestsellers, graba quick sandwich, and people-watchthe Washingtonians who flock herein droves. The outdoor tables are ata premium in good weather, andweekend brunch is a popular timeto rendezvous with friends. @ 1 hr.1517 Connecticut Ave. NW. y 202/387-1400. www.kramers.com. $$.Opens very early; closes very late.Metro: See Start, above.2 ★★ Phillips Collection.Before leaving Dupont Circle forpoints north, make a stop at theoriginal home of renowned art col-lector Duncan Phillips. On opening
87DupontCirclein the library (he was a film buff); thetypical 1920s kitchen, with one ofthe nation’s first electric refrigera-tors; and Wilson’s office, which hisfamily called “the dugout.” Officetreasures include a baseball givento him at an Army-Navy game heattended with England’s George VI.Upstairs, on his bedside table, liesImitation of Christ, by Thomas àhis personal collection to the publicin 1921, he established America’sfirst modern art museum. His collec-tion is still on view, and the museumremains one of the most popular inthe District. Rooms in this historicbrownstone feature works byPicasso, Degas, van Gogh, andO’Keeffe, along with several con-temporary artists. Auguste Renoir’sLuncheon of the Boating Party occu-pies an entire wall on the museum’ssecond floor, and is the Phillips’most celebrated piece. @ 2 hr. 160021st St. NW. y 202/387-2151. www.phillipscollection.org. Admission var-ies. Metro: Dupont Circle3 ★ Woodrow Wilson House.Tour the former home of the 28thpresident, preserved as it was whenhe lived here during his final years inthe 1920s. Docents guide visitors onhour-long tours of the GeorgianRevival–style building, pointing outobjects d’art, such as the FrenchGobelin tapestry given to Wilson bythe French ambassador, and tellingstories about our 28th president(such as the fact that he liked towhistle the tune “Oh You BeautifulDoll” to his beloved wife, Edith).You’ll see Wilson’s movie projectorCome to browse books, then snag a table for al fresco dining at Kramerbooks & After-words Café.President Woodrow Wilson’s radiomicrophone.
88TheBestNeighborhoodWalksSit outside at Dupont’s 5 Circaand watch the city go by whileenjoying lobster ravioli, pear salads,and more than 20 wines by theglass. 1601 Connecticut Ave. NW.y 202/667-1601. www.circaatdupont.com. $. Metro: DupontCircle.6 Lou Lou. Need a new belt forthe night out? How about a new setof earrings? This charming boutiquein the heart of Dupont Circle hasmore accessories than you’ll everneed—hats, headbands, belts,scarves, jewelry, and bags—all at avery reasonable price. @ 30 min.1601 Connecticut Ave. NW. y 202/588-0027. www.loulouboutiques.com. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm; Sun11am–6pm. $. Metro: Dupont Circle.7 Blue Mercury. This regionalskin care, cosmetics, and bath shophas a beautiful clientele—womenand men who can’t buy enough ofthe store’s Shu Uemera, Fresh,Decleor, and Paula Dorp productlines. Limited spa and beauty treat-ments are also available. @ 20 min.1619 Connecticut Ave. NW. y 202/462-1300. www.bluemercury.com.Mon–Sat 10am–8pm; Sun 11am–6pm. AE, DISC, MC, V. Metro: DupontCircle or Farragut North.8 ★★ Betsy Fisher. In a worldwhere so many of us can spot ourown outfits on others, it’s nice tofind a boutique with unique, fashion-forward apparel, shoes, and acces-sories for women—not girls—thatare modern without being trendy.It’s a good place to grab some basicaccessories, too—think belts,boots, shoes, and bags. @ 30 min.See p 108.9 ★★ = National Geo-graphic Explorer’s Hall. If youKempis. See also “Historic Washing-ton” on p 50. @ 2 hr. 2340 S St. NW.y 202/387-4062. www.woodrowwilsonhouse.org. $10 adults, $8seniors, $5 students. Tues–Sun10am–4pm; closed major holidays.Metro: Dupont Circle.4 Dupont Memorial Foun-tain. A trip to Dupont Circle willundoubtedly include a stroll throughthis urban park, from which theneighborhood radiates in all direc-tions. A giant marble statue of threeclassical figures representing sea,wind, and sky anchors the circulararea that attracts dog walkers, musi-cians, bookworms, and lunchbreak-ers. Designed by Daniel ChesterFrench—sculptor of the seatedAbraham Lincoln at the LincolnMemorial—and erected in 1921, itwas placed on the National Registerof Historic Places in 1978. @ 20min. Connecticut Ave. and NewHampshire Ave. NW. Metro: DupontCircle.The iconic fountain at Dupont Circle wasdesigned by Daniel Chester French andHenry Bacon and installed in 1921.
89DupontCircleWhether you arrive early in the eve-ning to rest your feet as you sip acocktail and sit, salon-style, on asofa, or you show up late to listen toa live band with all the beautiful peo-ple, the legendary !EighteenthStreet Lounge is all about mingling,chilling to music, and posing pretty.See p 151.for fresh seafood. 1624 Q St. NW.y 202/462-4265. www.hanksdc.com. $$. Metro: Dupont Circle.If your ideal evening (or afternoon)involves beer and oysters, you willfind no better place than 0★★Hank’s Oyster Bar. This casuallysophisticated, modern restaurantcaters to low-key diners with a tasteor your little ones are fans of worldtravel, space exploration, or both—or if you’ve been a reader ofNational Geographic all your life andsimply want to see where the maga-zine is put together—this museumis a must-visit. Check out the soci-ety’s rotating exhibits related toexploration, adventure, world cul-tures, and earth sciences, whichincorporate interactive programsand artifacts. Conclude your expedi-tion with a stop by the gift shop,whose ample collection of toys,gadgets, and gear will amuse yourwhole scouting party. @ 1 hr. 17thand M sts. NW. y 202/857-7588.www.nationalgeographic.com/museum. $8 adults, $6 seniors,$4 kids (5-12). Daily 10am–6pm.Closed Dec 25. Last tickets sold at5:15pm. Tickets available online orin advance at 202/857-7700. Metro:Farragut N. (Connecticut Ave. and LSt. exit).Brass sculpture at the National Geographic Society’s Explorer’s Hall.Hank’s Oyster Bar.
90TheBestNeighborhoodWalksGeorgetown29startherefinish hereMPotomac RiverC&O CanalRock CreekFoggy Bottom–GWUWhitehurst Fwy. NWWater St. NW (under fwy.) K St. NWM St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWI St. NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWReservoir Rd. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWN St. NWM St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thStNW23rdSt.NW24thSt.NWT St. NWS St. NW S St. NWR St. NWR St. NW35thSt.NWP St. NW28thSt.NW31stSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NWK St. NW (under fwy.)RockCreek&PotomacPkwy.NWDumbarton Ave. NWCanal Rd.NW 27thSt.NWThomasJeffersonSt. NWWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYROCK CREEKPARKDumbartonOaksGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYLover’sLaneFOGGYBOTTOMGEORGETOWNVIRGINIAPotomac RiverC&O CanalRock CreekFoggy Bottom–GWUWhitehurst Fwy. NWWater St. NW (under fwy.) K St. NWM St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWI St. NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWReservoir Rd. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWN St. NWM St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thStNW23rdSt.NW24thSt.NWT St. NWS St. NW S St. NWR St. NWR St. NW35thSt.NWP St. NW28thSt.NW31stSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NWK St. NW (under fwy.)RockCreek&PotomacPkwy.NWDumbarton Ave. NWCanal Rd.NW 27thSt.NWThomasJeffersonSt. NWWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYROCK CREEKPARKDumbartonOaksGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYLover’sLaneFOGGYBOTTOMGEORGETOWNVIRGINIA91012345678 11EvermayOak Hill CemeteryMontrose ParkTudor PlaceUrban ChicGeorgetownUniversityCady’s AlleySerendipity 3C&O CanalOld Stone HouseBourbon Steak12345679101181/4 mi00 0.25 kmNo visit to Washington is complete without a trip to his-toric and hip Georgetown—which somehow manages to bal-ance frenzied consumerism with cultural relevance. For some of theneighborhood’s most visited attractions, check out “The Best of D.C.in One Day,” on p 8. Here are a few additional points of interest,high-end restaurants, and outstanding retailers. START: Bus no. 30,32, 34, 35, 36, or 38B to Thomas Jefferson and M streets1 ★★ Evermay. Built between1792 and 1794, one of George-town’s greatest mansions had anoriginal owner who was both eccen-tric and obsessed with privacy. Hewent so far as to advertise dire pre-dictions (bordering on threats) inthe daily papers, warning the curi-ous of trespassing on his property.Today it’s privately owned, so youstill can’t tour the grounds, but youcan steal a look through the irongates. @ 30 min. 1623 28th St. NW.No Metro access (see “Traveling toGeorgetown,” at right).2 Oak Hill Cemetery. Thishistoric cemetery is just a shortwalk uphill from the shops ofGeorgetown’s M Street. One ofthe oldest cemeteries in the city, itwas established in 1849 and nowholds the remains of many famousWashingtonians: Senators, Civil Wargenerals, artists, designers, andPhilip Graham, longtime publisher ofthe Washington Post, are all buriedhere. Among the grounds’ greatbuildings and monuments are theVan Ness Mausoleum and Renwick
91GeorgetownStreet noises are so muffled, youmight even feel you’ve left the city.@ 45 min. On the block of 3000 R St.NW, next to Dumbarton Oaks. Opendaily until dusk. No Metro access(see box, below).4 ★ Tudor Place. One of the lon-gest blocks in Georgetown is thestretch between Q and R streets on31st Street NW. In a neighborhoodwhere even the rich and famous getdog-eat-dog over square footage, itdoesn’t get more impressive thanthis estate, which sprawls nearly afull square block. This 1816 mansionwas home to Martha Washington’sgranddaughter and her descendantsChapel, designed by James Renwick,Jr., architect of the SmithsonianBuilding. @ 30 min. 30th and R sts.NW. y 202/337-2835. www.oakhillcemeterydc.org. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm;Sun 1–4pm; closed to the public dur-ing funerals. Metro: FoggyBottom.3 ★ Montrose Park. Right nextdoor to Oak Hill, Montrose wasfounded as a place “for the recre-ation and pleasure of the people.”Rope-making tycoon Robert Parrottclaimed the land in the early 1800s,and by the early 1900s, it hadbecome the premier spot in townfor picnics and leisurely strolls.Georgetown is not exactly convenient to reach. There are noMetro stops here, or even close to here; you will need to rely on busor taxi transport for access. If you don’t mind a walk, however, getoff the Metro at either Foggy Bottom in D.C. or at Rosslyn, the firststop in northern Virginia (both are on the Blue and Orange lines),and hike 15 to 20 minutes. Foggy Bottom is a simple stroll west onPennsylvania, which merges into M Street, Georgetown’s maindrag. Rosslyn is just across Key Bridge; traverse it and you’re at theother end of Georgetown—perfect for a stop at Dean & Deluca fora snack. For bus schedules, check out www.wmata.com.Traveling to GeorgetownTudor Place, a massive Georgetown mansion.
92TheBestNeighborhoodWalksAfter a few hours of touring George-town, head to the venerable sweetsrestaurant 8 Serendipity 3 for aquick lunch break—or spring for thescene in the 1973 horror film, andconnect the campus to M St. fromProspect St.) Founded by Father JohnCarroll (an appointed superior of theAmerican Mission by the pope in1784), the school officially opened itsdoors for study in 1789. More than 2centuries later, the school is a topdraw for continuing education, andboasts formidable alums such asPresident William Jefferson Clinton,and yes, the guy who wrote TheExorcist, William Peter Blatty. @ 30min. 37th and O sts. NW. y 202/687-0100. www.georgetown.edu. NoMetro access (see box, p 91).7 ★★ Cady’s Alley. Looking forthat perfect armchair to go withyour new lamp? You’ll likely find ithere in D.C.’s design district. Sidlednext to the C&O Canal in George-town, this cluster of shops featuresinternational and local contempo-rary furnishings and accessories.Artefacto, Contemporaria, andLigne Roset are just a few of thepurveyors you’ll find in this loftydesign center. @ 1 hr. 3318 M St.NW (btw. 33rd and 34th sts.). www.cadysalley.com. Store hours vary.Metro: Foggy Bottom or Rosslyn.until 1984. @ 30 min. 1644 31st St.NW. y 202/965-0400. www.tudorplace.org. Admission $8 adults, $6seniors, $3 students. No reserva-tions necessary for groups of 10 orless. Garden tours Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; house tours by docent only. NoMetro access (see box, p 91).5 ★ Urban Chic. Not so long ago,D.C. was all about pearls and twin-sets but, thank goodness, times havechanged. This boutique is where thedistrict’s trendsetters select high-enddenims; cool looks from Chloe, MarcJacobs, and other designers; andsaliva-inducing accessories, fromwide belts to embellished earrings.@ 20 min. See p 110.6 ★★★ Georgetown Univer-sity. Like Harvard, Princeton, andBrown, Georgetown Universityevokes images of ivy-covered build-ings, historic colleges, polo-wearingstudents, and academic types withfurrowed brows appearing from theirivory towers. The campus groundsdo not disappoint, from the architec-ture to the soccer pitch, and makefor a lovely stroll on a nice day.Because the university is in the heartof Georgetown just a hop, skip, andjump from M Street’s main drag(west of Wisconsin), the curiousshould not hesitate to tour it. (Lookfor the nearby Exorcist stairs, too,which were featured in a climacticGeorgetown University.
93GeorgetownThe chic and contemporary!Bourbon Steak caters tosleek Georgetowners and a who’swho of Washington who enjoy theirsteaks—and don’t mind paying $40to $50 for one. The elegant loungeoffers views of Georgetown’s C&OCanal. 2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW.y 202/944-2026. www.bourbon-steakdc.com. $$$. No Metro access.$1,000 Golden Opulence, the mostexpensive ice-cream sundae in theworld. 3150 M St. NW. y 202/333-5193. www.serendipity3dc.com. $.No Metro access.y 202/895-6070. www.nps.gov/olst.Free admission. Daily noon–5pm. NoMetro access. See box, p 91.9 C&O Canal. Perfect for fami-lies, this185-mile (298km) waterwaywould take you to Cumberland,Maryland, if you were to follow itscourse. Stroll along the towpath,past historic homes and originalcanal locks. @ 2 hr. 1057 ThomasJefferson St. NW. y 202/653-5190.www.nps.gov/choh. Admission $8adults, $6 seniors, $5 children 4–14,free for children 3 and under. Mid-Apr to late Oct Wed–Sun 9am–4:30pm. No direct Metro access(Metro to Foggy Bottom is a 15-min.walk). Bus: See Start, above.0 ★ Old Stone House. On MStreet—between modern attractionslike Sephora and Hu’s Shoes—is theOld Stone House, one of the capital’soldest buildings, built in 1765. Giveyour credit card a rest; explore itsinterior, and learn how Washingto-nians lived nearly 250 years ago.@ 30 min. 3051 M St. NW.The tree-lined streets of Georgetown.Shoppers on M St.
94TheBestNeighborhoodWalksPenn Quarterstartstartfinishfinish1MMMMMMMJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianMcPhersonSquareI St. NWI St. NW14thSt.NWt.SW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW12thSt.NW10thSt.NW13thSt.NWConstitution Ave. NW15thSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWNew YorkAve. NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NWG St. NWH St. NWPennsylvania Ave.NWMassachusetts Ave. NWFreedom PlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenEnid A. HauptGardenJohn MarshallParkJudiciarySquareNat’lArchivesGAOVerizonCenterFBINat’lPortraitGalleryNational Gallery of ArtNat’l Museum ofAmerican History West Bldg. East Bldg.White HouseVisitors CenterDepartmentofCommerceDept.U.S. NavyMem.Martin Luther King, Jr.Memorial LibraryPENN QUARTERFEDERALTRIANGLECHINATOWNJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianMcPhersonSquareI St. NWI St. NW14thSt.NWt.SW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW12thSt.NW10thSt.NW13thSt.NWConstitution Ave. NW15thSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWNew YorkAve. NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NWG St. NWH St. NWPennsylvania Ave.NWMassachusetts Ave. NWFreedom PlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenEnid A. HauptGardenJohn MarshallParkJudiciarySquareNat’lArchivesGAOVerizonCenterFBINat’lPortraitGalleryNational Gallery of ArtNat’l Museum ofAmerican History West Bldg. East Bldg.White HouseVisitors CenterDepartmentofCommerceDept.U.S. NavyMem.Martin Luther King, Jr.Memorial LibraryPENN QUARTERFEDERALTRIANGLECHINATOWN41112 37986105National Museum ofWomen in the ArtsMadame Tussaud’sCowgirl CreameryFord’s Theatre National Historic SiteMatchboxNational Building MuseumMarian Koshland Science MuseumInternational Spy MuseumVerizon CenterProofShakespeare Theatre51023476891111/4 mi00 0.25 kmJust 15 years ago, this section of town induced more fearthan fanfare. Now Penn Quarter has certifiably transformed, draw-ing beautiful young things in droves to explore it. The former red-light district has been replaced with scene-making lounges andhigh-end hotels. And art galleries, edgy theater companies, andgroovy retailers have taken over aging buildings and given them newlife. Throw in the Verizon Center for major sporting events and sta-dium concerts, and you’ve got one happening neighborhood. START:Metro to Archives/Navy Memorial1 National Museum ofWomen in the Arts. One of thelesser-known museums in the city,but nonetheless important, theNMWA is the only one dedicatedsolely to showcasing women artistsin the country. More than 3,000works comprise the collection of artfrom women from the 16th centuryto the present. @ 1 hr. 1250 NewYork Ave. NW. y 202/783-5000.www.nmwa.org. Metro: MetroCenter.2 ★ Madame Tussaud’s. Visitthe Oval Office and meet PresidentBarack Obama and First LadyMichelle—or at least their wax fig-ures—at this institution that alsofeatures other important political,sports, and music figures of Wash-ington. @ 1 hr. 1001 F St. NW.
95PennQuarteruntil 1968, when it reopened—restored to its appearance on thenight of Lincoln’s murder—as a func-tioning playhouse and a repository forhistorical artifacts surrounding theassassination and the trial of Booth’sconspirators. The collection ofmuseum artifacts includes Booth’sderringer pistol, Lincoln’s overcoatfrom the night he was shot, and thetheater binoculars that were found onthe floor of the president’s box. Awww.madametussauds.com/washington. Hours vary. Metro:Gallery Place/Chinatown.3 Cowgirl Creamery. No trip tothe area would be complete withouta quick stop at this Paris-like wineshop. Stock up on a variety of gour-met cheeses and wine before con-tinuing your tour of the area. @ 10min. 919 F St. NW. y 202/393-6880.www.cowgirlcreamery.com. Metro:Gallery Place/Chinatown.4 ★★ Ford’s TheatreNational Historic Site. On April14, 1865, gun-wielding assassin JohnWilkes Booth killed President Abra-ham Lincoln here, as the presidentwatched a performance of Our Ameri-can Cousin. Booth crept into the pres-ident’s box; shot Lincoln; leapt to thestage, shouting, “Sic semper tyran-nis!” (“Thus ever to tyrants!”); andthen mounted his horse in the alleyand galloped off. Doctors carried Lin-coln across the street to the house ofWilliam Petersen, where the presidentdied the next morning. The theaterclosed immediately, and the WarDepartment used the building as anoffice until 1893, when three floorscollapsed, killing 22 clerks. Subse-quently, the structure fell into disuseThe newly renovated Ford’s Theatre.The International Spy Museum.
96TheBestNeighborhoodWalksBuilt into a 15-foot-wide (4.5m),three-story tall building, 5Match-box is quite simply the place forpizza. You’ll happily nosh on fire-cooked pizza pies, mini-burgers,and salads—if you can get a table.Note: Your entire party must bepresent before they’ll seat you. 713H St. NW. y 202/289-4441. www.matchboxdc.com. $$. Metro: GalleryPlace/Chinatown.conjure up romantic images ofJames Bond and trench-coatedsecret agents. Now, in the wake of9/11 and terrorist cells, it’s a wholenew world. To learn about the his-tory of espionage and the unchartedterritory we now must learn to navi-gate, tour this museum, which fea-tures the largest collection ofinternational espionage artifactsever put on public display. Exhibitsinclude a re-creation of a tunnelbeneath the divided city of Berlinduring the Cold War; the intelli-gence-gathering stories of thosebehind enemy lines and of thoseinvolved in planning D-Day in WorldWar II; an exhibit on escape andevasion techniques in wartime; thetales of more recent spies, told bythe CIA and FBI agents involved inidentifying them; and a mockup ofan intelligence agency’s 21st-cen-tury operations center. The SpyMuseum’s executive director was2009 renovation expanded exhibits;added a new lobby and box office;and installed 21st-century lighting,seats, and concessions. @ 11⁄2 hr.,or more if you plan to see a show.511 10th St. NW. y 202/347-4833.www.fordstheatre.org. Museumadmission $2.50. Limited free ticketsavailable at 8:30am on first-come,first-served basis. Daily 8:30am–5:30pm, except Dec 25. Metro:Archive/Navy Memorial.The National Building Museum.6 ★★ National BuildingMuseum. Architects of the world,rejoice! Finally, a museum is dedi-cated to American achievements inthe building arts. @ 45 min. 401 FSt. NW. y 202/272-2448. www.nbm.org. Admission $8; $5 seniors, youth,students (age 3-17). Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Metro: GalleryPlace/Chinatown. See p 46.7 Marian Koshland ScienceMuseum. Want to know how DNAworks, or how global warming willaffect us? You don’t have to be a sci-ence geek to immerse yourself forhours in this museum. @ 2 hr. 6thand E sts. NW. y 202/334-1201.www.koshland-science-museum.org.Admission $7 adults, $4 students.Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (last admis-sion 5pm), except Thanksgiving,Dec 25, and Jan 1–13. Metro: GalleryPlace/Chinatown.8 ★★ International SpyMuseum. The word “spy” used to
97PennQuarterWine bars exploded onto theD.C. scene in recent years, and0★★★ Proof continues to be atthe top of the heap. A tax attorney-turned-restaurateur, Mark Kulleropened this wine-centric restaurantin 2007 and devoted much of hisown wine collection to its list, whichboasts 1,000 different bottles. Adinner of glazed Alaskan sablefishor grilled beef hanger steak isn’tbad, either. 775 G St. NW. y 202/737-7663. www.proofdc.com. $$–$$$.Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.! ★★ Shakespeare Theatre.From Love’s Labor Lost to Pericles,this renowned outfit stages the bestof the Bard in one of the District’shottest new neighborhoods. Fill upon highbrow culture, then hit thetown for some low-down gallivant-ing after the show. @ 30 min., ormore if you plan to see a show.Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.See p 19.with the CIA for 36 years and hisadvisory board includes two formerCIA directors, two former CIA dis-guise chiefs, and a retired KGBgeneral. @ 2 hr. 800 F St. NW.y 202/393-7798. www.spymuseum.org. Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.9 Verizon Center. Time it rightand you could catch a game ofhoops by the Wizards, or the puck-ish Alex Ovechkin making goals forthe Caps. You might even seeMadonna or another touring legendin concert when you come here forstadium-size entertainment. @ 30min., or more if you plan to catcha game or a show. 601 F St. NW.y 202/628-3200. www.verizoncenter.com. Call for admission prices.Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.Al fresco dining at Proof.
98TheBestNeighborhoodWalksCapitol Hillstartherefinishhere395395MMMCapitolReflectingPoolUnion StationCapitolSouthEasternMarketLouisianaAve. NWNorthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.Constitution Ave. NWD St. NW1stSt.NW2ndSt.NW2ndSt.SWNewJerseyAve.NW2ndSt.NE3rdSt.NE7thStF St. NEE St. NEC St. NE C St. NEDelawareAve.NEA St. NE8thSt.NE9thSt.NE10thSt.SEMarylandAve. NEConstitution Ave. NEPennsylvaniaAve. SEA St. SESouth CarolinaAve. SENorth CarolinaAve. SEIndependence Ave. SEC St. SED St. SED St. SED St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE3rdSt.SE4thSt.SE5thSt.SE6thSt.SE7thSt.SE8thSt.SE9thSt.SE4thSt.NEE St. SEIndependence Ave. SWWashingtonAve.SWMassachusetts Ave. NEColumbusCircleFolger ParkSpirit ofJustice ParkProvidenceParkMarionParkUnionStationPlazaSewardSquareCapitolMadisonBldg.JeffersonBldg.U.S. BotanicGardenUnion StationSENATE OFFICEBUILDINGSHOUSE OFFICEBUILDINGSLIBRARYOFCONGRESSAdamsBldg.CapitolVisitor CenterentrancesPeaceMonumentGarfieldMonumentSupremeCourtNationalPostal MuseumCAPITOL HILLCapitolReflectingPoolUnion StationCapitolSouthEasternMarketLouisianaAve. NWNorthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.Constitution Ave. NWD St. NW1stSt.NW2ndSt.NW2ndSt.SWNewJerseyAve.NW2ndSt.NE3rdSt.NE7thStF St. NEE St. NEC St. NE C St. NEDelawareAve.NEA St. NE8thSt.NE9thSt.NE10thSt.SEMarylandAve. NEConstitution Ave. NEPennsylvaniaAve. SEA St. SESouth CarolinaAve. SENorth CarolinaAve. SEIndependence Ave. SEC St. SED St. SED St. SED St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE3rdSt.SE4thSt.SE5thSt.SE6thSt.SE7thSt.SE8thSt.SE9thSt.SE4thSt.NEE St. SEIndependence Ave. SWWashingtonAve.SWMassachusetts Ave. NEColumbusCircleFolger ParkSpirit ofJustice ParkProvidenceParkMarionParkUnionStationPlazaSewardSquareCapitolMadisonBldg.JeffersonBldg.U.S. BotanicGardenUnion StationSENATE OFFICEBUILDINGSHOUSE OFFICEBUILDINGSLIBRARYOFCONGRESSAdamsBldg.CapitolVisitor CenterentrancesPeaceMonumentGarfieldMonumentSupremeCourtNationalPostal MuseumCAPITOL HILL9864357101271023456891 Union StationSewall-Belmont House& MuseumFolger ShakespeareLibraryBartholdi ParkCapitol Hill BooksBarracks RowTed’s BulletinEastern MarketWashington Navy YardBullfeathers1/4 mi00 0.25 kmAlthough it’s the seat of U.S. government, crowned by theCapitol’s graceful dome, and encompassing the Supreme Courtand the Library of Congress, “the Hill” is also a quiet residential dis-trict bounded by the Capitol to the west, the Armory to the east, HStreet to the north, and the Southwest Freeway to the south. Withits tree-lined streets of Victorian homes, restaurants, the U.S.Botanic Garden, and the Folger Shakespeare Library, Capitol Hilloffers plenty of reasons to visit beyond its government buildings. Fora more extensive tour of this historic neighborhood and its essentiallandmarks, see “The Best of D.C. in Two Days,” on p 14. Here are afew additional highlights, for a more relaxed day of explorationrather than sightseeing. START: Metro to Eastern Market1 ★ Union Station. Take onestep inside and you’ll know that thisis no typical train station. As ornateas it is functional, this 1907 BeauxArts–style building was designed bynoted architect Daniel Burnham. Asa member of the illustrious McMillanCommission (assembled in 1900 tobeautify the city in a manner befit-ting an important world capital),Burnham counseled, “Make no littleplans. They have no magic to stirmen’s blood.” Union Station, one ofthe commission’s “big plans,” (at itsopening it was the largest train sta-tion in the world), was modeled
99CapitolHillfine-fare dining options. @ 30 min. 2Massachusetts Ave. NE. y 202/289-1908. www.unionstationdc.com.Free admission. Daily 24 hr. Metro:Union Station.2 Sewall-Belmont House &Museum. You might find yourselfhumming “Sister Suffragette” fromMary Poppins—“We’re clearly sol-diers in petticoats, and dauntlesscrusaders for women’s votes”—asyou tour this museum. This Federal/Queen Anne–style house was oncethe home of Alice Paul (1885–1977),who founded the National Women’sParty in 1913 and wrote the originalEqual Rights Amendment to theConstitution (ERA). Paul, who heldthree law degrees and a Ph.D. insociology, was jailed seven times inthe U.S. and Great Britain for thecause of women’s suffrage. Paullived here from 1929 to 1972, butnow the National Women’s Partyowns and maintains the house.Exhibitions trace the path of thewomen’s movement, from thebetter-known activist Susan B.Anthony, to 59¢ buttons and theERA. Check out picketing banners,after the baths of Diocletian and theArch of Constantine in Rome. TheMain Hall features a nine-story,96-foot (29m) barrel-vaulted ceilinginlaid with 70 pounds (32 kg) of22-karat gold-leaf, acres of whitemarble floors punctuated by redChamplain dots, bronze grilles, andrich Honduran mahogany paneling.The adjacent East Hall has scagliolamarbled walls and columns; a gor-geous, hand-stenciled skylight ceil-ing; and stunning murals inspired bythe frescos of Pompei. In the heydayof rail travel, many important eventstook place in Union Station: Visitingroyalty and heads of state werehonored here, as were World War IGeneral Pershing, upon his returnfrom France; South Pole explorerRear Admiral Byrd; and PresidentFranklin Delano Roosevelt, whosefuneral train was met here by thou-sands of mourners in 1945. TodayUnion Station is a crossroads forD.C. locals, commuters from Balti-more and the suburbs, and visitorsfrom farther afield. It also housesloads of shops such as Nine West,Swatch, and Victoria’s Secret, plusa solid section of fast-food andInside the Sewall-Belmont House.
100TheBestNeighborhoodWalkshistorical playbills, and more.@ 45 min. 201 E. Capitol St. SE.y 202/544-7077. www.folger.edu.Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm; with docent tours at 11am and3pm weekdays, Sat–Sun 1pm; closedon federal holidays. Metro: CapitolSouth or Union Station.4 ★★ Bartholdi Park. Part ofthe U.S. Botanic Garden, this flower-filled park is about the size of a cityblock and is named for the Frenchsculptor who created its 30-foot-high (9m) cast-iron “fountain of lightand water.” Frederic Auguste Bar-tholdi (1834–1904), who is mostfamous for that other large sculp-ture he made—the Statue of Libertyin New York Harbor—constructedthis work for the 1876 InternationalExposition in Philadelphia. When theexposition closed, the U.S. govern-ment purchased the sculpture forthe National Mall; it was moved toits current location in 1932. Come to5,000 prints and photographs, origi-nal cartoons, more than 50 scrap-books from early suffragists,paintings, sculptures, publications,and more. @ 1 hr. 144 ConstitutionAve. NE. y 202/546-1210. www.sewallbelmont.org. Admission $5.Wed–Sun noon–5pm. Metro: UnionStation.3 ★★ Folger ShakespeareLibrary. Founded in 1932 byardent Shakespeare fan (andwealthy Standard Oil executive)Henry Clay Folger and his wife,Emily, this repository houses theworld’s largest collection of theBard’s printed works. In addition toits 250,000 books—100,000 ofwhich are classified as rare—thelibrary also provides an importantresearch center for students of themaster playwright and Renaissanceliterature. The permanent exhibitsin the Great Hall include periodcostumes, musical instruments,The Folger Shakespeare Library.
101CapitolHillCapitol Hill is known for its stuffy,only-in-D.C. restaurants, but7★ Ted’s Bulletin—a livelyAmerican eatery, with close tablesand a neighborly feel—is anythingbut. Dig into delicious salads andburgers, but save room for des-sert—the milkshakes and pies aretop-notch here. 505 8th St. SE.y 202/544-8337. www.tedsbulletin.com. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. $–$$.Metro: Eastern Market.Eye sts. SE. y 202/544-3188. www.barracksrow.org. Metro: EasternMarket.view it, and to enjoy the surround-ing sunflowers, petunias, morningglories, tall ornamental grasses, andcreeping vines. @ 45 min. 1st St.and Independence Ave. SW. Freeadmission. Daily dawn–dusk. Metro:Union Station.5 ★ Capitol Hill Books. Thisspot is a mecca for bibliophiles andlovers of used books. Spend sometime wandering this quirky bookmaze and you’ll find some of themore unique titles in literary history.@ 30 min. 657 C St. SE. y 202/544-1621. www.capitolhillbooks-dc.com.Mon–Fri 11:30am–6pm. Sat–Sun9am–6pm. Metro: Eastern Market.6 ★★ Barracks Row. The stripalong 8th St. SE became the firstcommercial center in D.C. afterThomas Jefferson centered theMarine Corps there in 1801. Theneighborhood has ridden out somedownturns since then, but in morerecent years, Washingtonians haveflocked to the lively district for hous-ing, dining, and shopping. Restau-rants, outdoor cafes, and tavernssuch as the Ugly Mug and BelgaCafé are always packed, and storessuch as Groovy DC and Homebodycater to artsy types seeking thoseone-of-a-kind finds. @ 1 hr. 8th andCapitol Hill Books.8 ★★ Eastern Market. You’llhave many “have-to-have-it”moments during your stroll throughthe shops of this D.C. landmark thathas been in continuous operationsince 1873. A 2007 fire nearly deci-mated the 135-year-old East Hallbuilding, but the city government—and devoted fans of the market—vowed to rebuild it, and it reopenedin June 2009. Snack on treats fromvarious vendors to stay fueled asyou browse the wares of more than175 exhibitors who showcase theirhandmade pottery, jewelry, crafts,furniture, and—on the weekends—fresh produce from the surrounding
102TheBestNeighborhoodWalksThe venerable 0Bullfeathersis where everyone—Democrats,Republicans, staffers, and Hill mem-bers—goes for strong drinks whenthe working day is done. Eavesdropon conversations and you might justhear some of those famous D.C.secrets. 410 1st SE. y 202/543-5005. www.bullfeathersdc.com. $$.Metro: Capitol South.•states. Saturday morning is the besttime to go experience a D.C. tradi-tion: blueberry pancakes at the Mar-ket Lunch counter (Sat 7am–6pm;Sun 9am–4pm; Tues–Fri from 7am).@ 2 hr. 7th St. & N. Carolina Ave.SE. y 202/543-7470. Tues–Fri 7am–7pm; Sat 7am–6pm; Sun 9am–5pm.Metro: Eastern Market.9 Washington Navy Yard. Ifyou’re already in the Capitol Hillarea, it’s a relatively short walk tothe Washington Navy Yard andMuseum. Off the beaten track andoften overlooked—and thus bless-edly uncrowded—this museum cel-ebrates the Navy’s heroes, ships,diplomacy, and battles. Among itsmany exhibits are submarines,swords, and firearms from Revolu-tionary ship captains, artifacts fromsalvaged Naval vessels dating backto 1800, and a range of Naval uni-forms that span the years. @ 1 hr.805 Kidder Breese SE. y 202/433-6826. www.history.navy.mil. Freeadmission. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm,Sat–Sun and holidays 10am–5pm.Call in advance for tour reservations.Metro: Eastern Market or NavyYard.Daniel Burnham’s Beaux-Arts masterwork, Union Station.Bullfeathers, a Capitol Hill standby.
5 The Best Shopping
104TheBestShoppingBest Gourmet Snack★ Dean & Deluca, 3276 M St. NW(p 111)Best Flowers★ Ultra Violet Flowers, 1218 31stSt. NW (p 111)Best Bookstore to Catch a Sen-ator Reading about Himself★ Capitol Hill Books, 657 C St. SE(p 108)Best for Cool Mid-20th-CenturyFindsMiss Pixie’s, 1626 14th St. NW (p 112)Best Baby Stuff★★ Dawn Price Baby, 3112 M St.,NW (p 108)Best for Contemporary HomeDesign★★ Muléh, 1831 14th St. NW (p 112)Best Denim★★ Denim Bar, 1109 S. Joyce St.,Arlington, Va. (p 109)Best Cards & Gifts★ Pulp DC, 1803 14th St. NW (p 110)Best for MusiciansMiddle C Music, 4530 WisconsinAve. NW (p 113)Best Bones to Pick★★ Metro Mutts, 508 H St. NE(p 113)Best for Innovative Children’sToysTugooh Toys, 1419 Wisconsin Ave.NW (p 108)Best Interior Design District★★ Cady’s Alley, 3314 M St. NW,Georgetown (p 111)Best Antiques (to $10K)Susquehanna Antique Co., 3206 OSt. NW (see “Antique Row,” p 112)Best Antiques (to $100)★★ Eastern Market, 7th Street andNorth Carolina Avenue SE (p 114)Best “Bling”★★★ Tiny Jewel Box, 1147 Con-necticut Ave. NW (p 113)Best Shoes for $500★★ Sassanova, 1641 WisconsinAve. NW. (p 114)Best Shoes for $50Nine West, 1029 Connecticut Ave.NW (p 110)Best Apparel for SeriousFashionistas★ Urban Chic, 1626 Wisconsin Ave.NW (p 110)Best Commercial ShoppingDragM Street and Wisconsin AvenueBest Hidden GemHome Rule, 187 14th St. NW (p 112)Best Hood for ContemporaryArt★★★ The Galleries on 14th Street,14th Street NW (p 108)Best Place for a Power Tie★★★ Thomas Pink, 1127 Connecti-cut Ave. NW (p 110)Shopping Best BetsPrevious page: Antiques and homefurnishings at Miss Pixie’s (p 112).
105ShoppingBestBetsCapitol Hill & Penn QuarterMMMCapitolSouthEasternMarketUnionStationNorthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.K St. NW1stMassachusettsAve.NE2ndSt.NE3rdSt.NE4thSt.NE6thSt.NE7thSt.NE7thSt.NE5thSt.NEG St. NEH St. NEF St. NEE St. NED St. NEC St. NE C St. NEC St. NEC St. NEI St. NEDelawareAve.NEA St. NE8thSt.NEMarylandAve.NEConstitution Ave. NEPennsylvaniaAve. SEA St. SENorth CarolinaAve. SEIndependence Ave. SEC St. SEC St. SED St. SED St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NE3rdSt.SE3rdSt.NE6thSt.NE6thSt.SE7thSt.SE8thSt.SEE St. SENewJerseyAve.SESouthCapitolSt.ColumbusCircleUnionStationPlazaSpirit ofJustice ParkProvidenceParkFolgerParkSewardSquareStantonParkMarion ParkCapitolEasternMarketJamesMadisonBldg.ThomasJeffersonBldg.CannonLongworthUnion StationNationalPostalMuseumHOUSEOFFICE BUILDINGSSENATE OFFICE BUILDINGSLIBRARYOFCONGRESSJohnAdamsBldg.Russell DirksenHartCapitolVisitor CenterentrancesSupremeCourtFolgerShakespeareLibraryCAPITOLHILLNOMACapitolSouthEasternMarketUnionStationNorthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.K St. NW1stMassachusettsAve.NE2ndSt.NE3rdSt.NE4thSt.NE6thSt.NE7thSt.NE7thSt.NE5thSt.NEG St. NEH St. NEF St. NEE St. NED St. NEC St. NE C St. NEC St. NEC St. NEI St. NEDelawareAve.NEA St. NE8thSt.NEMarylandAve.NEConstitution Ave. NEPennsylvaniaAve. SEA St. SENorth CarolinaAve. SEIndependence Ave. SEC St. SEC St. SED St. SED St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NE3rdSt.SE3rdSt.NE6thSt.NE6thSt.SE7thSt.SE8thSt.SEE St. SENewJerseyAve.SESouthCapitolSt.ColumbusCircleUnionStationPlazaSpirit ofJustice ParkProvidenceParkFolgerParkSewardSquareStantonParkMarion ParkCapitolEasternMarketJamesMadisonBldg.ThomasJeffersonBldg.CannonLongworthUnion StationNationalPostalMuseumHOUSEOFFICE BUILDINGSSENATE OFFICE BUILDINGSLIBRARYOFCONGRESSJohnAdamsBldg.Russell DirksenHartCapitolVisitor CenterentrancesSupremeCourtFolgerShakespeareLibraryCAPITOLHILLNOMA231Capitol Hill Books 2Eastern Market 3Metro Mutts 11/4 mi00 0.25 km
106TheBestShoppingGeorgetown & Dupont Circle29666666MMLittleRiverRockCreekC & O CanalPotomac RiverRockCreekRANGELINERosslynFoggy Bottom–GWUPotomacSt.NWN. LynnSt.Wilson Blvd.GeorgeWashingtonMemorialPkwy.M St. NWM St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWWisconsinAve.NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWQ St. NWQ St. NW Q St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWM St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NWWhitehurstFwy. NW25thSt.NW27thSt.NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thSt.NW23rdSt.NW23rdStNW24thSt.NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwyNW.ConnecticutMassachusettsAve.NWObservatoryCir. NWT St. NWS St. NWS St. NWR St. NWR St. NWReservoir Rd. NW37thSt.NW36thSt.NW35thSt.NWVirginiaAve. NWD St. NW28thSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NWCalifornia St. NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWCanal Rd.NWDumbarton Ave. NWCalvert St. NWMassachusettsAve.NWRock Creek &Potomac Pkwy.NWShorehamDr. NWWhitehavenPkwy. NWObservatory Ln. NWWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeTheodore RooseveltMem. BridgeROCK CREEKPARKROCK CREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARKDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYGuy MasonRecreationParkHOLY ROODCEMETERYTheodore RooseveltIslandU.S. NAVALOBSERVATORYKennedyCenterWatergateDumbartonOaksTheodoreRooseveltMemorialGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYGEORGETOWNEMBASSYROWLittleRiverRockCreekC & O CanalPotomac RiverRockCreekRANGELINERosslynFoggy Bottom–GWUPotomacSt.NWN. LynnSt.Wilson Blvd.GeorgeWashingtonMemorialPkwy.M St. NWM St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWWisconsinAve.NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWQ St. NWQ St. NW Q St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWM St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NWWhitehurstFwy. NW25thSt.NW27thSt.NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thSt.NW23rdSt.NW23rdStNW24thSt.NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwyNW.ConnecticutMassachusettsAve.NWObservatoryCir. NWT St. NWS St. NWS St. NWR St. NWR St. NWReservoir Rd. NW37thSt.NW36thSt.NW35thSt.NWVirginiaAve. NWD St. NW28thSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NWCalifornia St. NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWCanal Rd.NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwy.NWDumbarton Ave. NWCalvert St. NWMassachusettsAve.NWRock Creek &Potomac Pkwy.NWShorehamDr. NWWhitehavenPkwy. NWObservatory Ln. NWWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeTheodore RooseveltMem. BridgeROCK CREEKPARKROCK CREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARKDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYGuy MasonRecreationParkHOLY ROODCEMETERYTheodore RooseveltIslandU.S. NAVALOBSERVATORYKennedyCenterWatergateDumbartonOaksTheodoreRooseveltMemorialGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYGEORGETOWNEMBASSYROW12347865181112 1315 171416910Adamson Gallery 34Antique Row 8Betsy Fisher 24Burberry 22Cady’s Alley 12Curator’s Office 34Dawn Price Baby 14Dean & Deluca 13Denim Bar 18The Dog Shop 7Gallery plan b 33GeorgetownFlea Market 4GeorgetownRunning Co. 11The Guitar Shop 23Hemphill Fine Arts 34Home Rule 30Hu’s Shoes 17Lettie Gooch 27Lou Lou 26Middle C Music 2Millennium 28Miss Pixie’s 32Muléh 29Nine West 19The Old PrintGallery 16Pearson’s 3Politics and Prose 1Proper Topper 25Pulp DC 31Sassanova 5Sullivan’s Toy Store 2SusquehannaAntique Co. 10Thomas Pink 20Timothy Paul Carpets& Textiles 36Tiny Jewel Box 21Transformer 35Tugooh Toys 9Ultra Violet Flowers 15Urban Chic 6
107ShoppingBestBets5012929MMMMMMMMkRockCreekConstitutionGardens LakeFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMetroCenterFederalTriangleMcPhersonSquareVernon St.NWBiltmore St. NWSwann St. NWCorcoran St. NWChurch St. NWL St. NWK St. NW K St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NW M St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWPennsylvania Ave. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NWI St. NWI St. NW I St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW22ndSt.NW21stSt.NWAve.NWR St. NWColumbiaRd. NWEuclid St. NWU St. NW U St. NWV St. NWW St. NWFloridaAve. NWRhodeIslandAve. NWL St. NWS St. NWO St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NWVermontAve.NWVermontAve.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW13thSt.NWKalorama Rd. NWCaliforniaSt. NWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWH St. NWVirginiaAve. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NW Constitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NW17thSt.NW15thSt.NWFlorida Ave. NWNew York Ave. NW13thSt.NWFlorida Ave. NWNewHampshireAve.NWG St. NWColumbiaRd.NWMassachusettsAve.NW18thSt.NWS St. NWConnecticutAve.NWCalvert St. NWKalorama Rd. NWFloridaAve.NWPennsylvania Ave. NWPen n. Ave. NWBeachDr.NW14thSt.NWScott CircleThomasCircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleLoganCircleFreedom PlazaTheEllipseFranklinSquareLafayetteSquareMeridianHillParkWalter PierceParkWhiteHouseNat’l Museum ofAmerican HistoryVietnam VeteransMemorialWhite HouseVisitors CenterGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYStateDepartmentZeroMilestoneTreasuryDept.EisenhowerExecutiveOfficeBuildingCorcoranGalleryPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLEDUPONTCIRCLEADAMSMORGANFOGGYBOTTOMU STREET CORRIDORkRockCreekConstitutionGardens LakeFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMetroCenterFederalTriangleMcPhersonSquareVernon St.NWBiltmore St. NWSwann St. NWCorcoran St. NWChurch St. NWL St. NWK St. NW K St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NW M St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWPennsylvania Ave. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NWI St. NWI St. NW I St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW22ndSt.NW21stSt.NWAve.NWR St. NWColumbiaRd. NWEuclid St. NWU St. NW U St. NWV St. NWW St. NWFloridaAve. NWRhodeIslandAve. NWL St. NWS St. NWO St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NWVermontAve.NWVermontAve.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW13thSt.NWKalorama Rd. NWCaliforniaSt. NWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWH St. NWVirginiaAve. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NW Constitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NW17thSt.NW15thSt.NWFlorida Ave. NWNew York Ave. NW13thSt.NWFlorida Ave. NWNewHampshireAve.NWG St. NWColumbiaRd.NWMassachusettsAve.NW18thSt.NWS St. NWConnecticutAve.NWCalvert St. NWKalorama Rd. NWFloridaAve.NWPennsylvania Ave. NWPen n. Ave. NWBeachDr.NW14thSt.NWScott CircleThomasCircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleLoganCircleFreedom PlazaTheEllipseFranklinSquareLafayetteSquareMeridianHillParkWalter PierceParkWhiteHouseNat’l Museum ofAmerican HistoryVietnam VeteransMemorialWhite HouseVisitors CenterGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYStateDepartmentZeroMilestoneTreasuryDept.EisenhowerExecutiveOfficeBuildingCorcoranGalleryPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLEDUPONTCIRCLEADAMSMORGANFOGGYBOTTOMU STREET CORRIDOR3329343536312623222425303221201927281/4 mi00 0.25 km
108TheBestShoppingto this thoughtful shop, which iswell stocked with an array of all-nat-ural and eco-friendly toys, games,books, and clothes. 1419 WisconsinAve. NW. y 202/333-0032. AE,DISC, MC, V. No Metro Access. See“Traveling to Georgetown,” onp 91. Map p 106.Books★ Capitol Hill Books CAPITOLHILL Feel like losing yourself on arainy afternoon in dusty stacksbursting with amazing old books?This used bookstore, steps fromEastern Market, has more than acentury’s worth of history and is amine for modern first editions, lit-crit, and unusual subjects. 657 C St.SE (btw. 6th and 7th sts.). y 202/544-1621. www.capitolhillbooks-dc.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: EasternMarket. Map p 105.★★ Politics and Prose CLEVE-LAND PARK If on principle you’drather give your hard-earned cash toMom and Pop than a big chain, headnorth of downtown to this two-storyshop. It’s famed in D.C. for its warmvibe, nearly nightly author readings,excellent selection, and cozy coffee-house. 5015 Connecticut Ave. NW (atFessenden St.). y 202/364-1919.www.politics-prose.com. AE, DISC,MC, V. Metro: Van Ness–UDC, thenwalk or transfer to an “L” bus for 1mile (1.6km). Map p 106.Fashion★ Betsy Fisher DUPONT CIRCLE You follow Vogue, so peruse theracks of this boutique—buzz to gainentry, please—designed to suit thecaviar tastes of well-dressed womenwho must look smashing at D.C.dinner parties and occasional dateswith high-ranking officials. 1224Art★★★ The Galleries on 14thStreet 14TH STREET/LOGAN CIR-CLE The creative mark made on14th Street has inspired curators toopen galleries on this emergingmain street for modern and contem-porary works. Don’t miss thesehighlights: Hemphill Fine Arts(y 202/234-5601; www.hemphillfinearts.com; AE, DC, DISC, MC, V);Adamson Gallery (y 202/232-0707; www.adamsoneditions.com;MC, V); Curator’s Office (y 202/387-1008; www.curatorsoffice.com;MC, V); Transformer (1404 P St. NWat 14th St.; y 202/483-1102; www.transformerdc.org); and Galleryplan b (1530 14th St. NW at Q St.;y 202/234-2711; www.galleryplanb.com; AE, MC, V). Metro:Cardozo/U St. Map p 106.Babies & Kids★★ Dawn Price Baby GEORGE-TOWN If you’re a member of thestroller set whose bundle of joy musthave the latest Bugaboo model, headto this small but stocked shop. Cloth-ing, shoes, and toys are also for sale.3112 M St. NW (at 31st St.). y 202/333-3939. www.dawnpricebaby.com.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. No Metro access.See “Traveling to Georgetown,” onp 91. Map p 106.★ Sullivan’s Toy Store CLEVE-LAND PARK Forgot to pack Elmo?This tantrum-quashing shop is jam-packed with every conceivable play-thing, puzzle, costume, wheeledwonder, art supply, and entertainingdistraction imaginable. 4200 VanNess St. NW. y 202/362-1343. AE,DISC, MC, V. Metro: Tenleytown.Map p 106.Tugooh Toys GEORGETOWN Ifyou’re picky about toys, then headShopping A to Z
109ShoppingAtoZbut the ultimate pair of jeans. Menand women devoted to upscaledesigner denim should take the easyMetro ride here, where an expertstaff will guide you (sometimes cru-elly, to be kindly) to the perfect fit.1101 S. Joyce St., Arlington, Virginia.y 703/414-8202. www.denimbaronline.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. Metro:Pentagon City. Map p 106.Georgetown Running Co.GEORGETOWN If you’re light onyour feet—meaning the prospect ofrunning 5 miles (8km) fills you withjoy, not dread—jog this way forstate-of-the-art track shoes andgear. 3401 M St. NW (at 34th St.).y 202/337-8626. www.therunningcompany.net. AE, DISC, MC, V. NoMetro access. See “Traveling toGeorgetown,” on p 91. Map p 106.Lettie Gooch SHAW A little bit ofNYC’s Soho is found in this uniqueboutique that stocks one-of-a-kindfeminine fashions from Tricia Fix, Salt-Works, Hype, Jak & Rae, and localdesigners. 1517 U St. NW. y 202/332-4242. www.lettiegooch.com.Metro: U Street/Cardozo. Map p 106.Lou Lou DUPONT CIRCLE Headto this boutique for any accessoryyou could ever want, from beadednecklaces to brooches to head-bands to handbags—all at veryreasonable prices. 1601 ConnecticutConnecticut Ave. NW (at 18th St.).y 202/785-1975. www.betsyfisher.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. Metro: DupontCircle. Map p 106.★★ Burberry DOWNTOWN Yes,it’s a chain store. But despite its Eng-lish roots, there is something aboutthat famous signature plaid—found inthe linings of its cloth umbrellas, tonyand tailored clothing, and camel-haircoats for men and women—that isquintessentially Washington, too.1155 Connecticut Ave. NW (at M St.).y 202/463-3000. www.burberry.com.AE, DISC, MC, V. Metro: FarragutNorth. Map p 106.★★ Denim Bar BETHESDA Wewouldn’t send a D.C. newcomer toshop outside the District for anythingCapitol Hill Books.Known and loved for its off-the-beaten-path boutiques and shops,this bustling strip is billed as D.C.’s Fifth Avenue. If it’s the extremelyhigh-endyou’relookingfor,takea15-minuteMetroride—orbetteryet,hailacab—tothisbusyWisconsin Avenue corridor thatcaters toluxurybuyers with outposts of Sak’s Fifth Avenue, Tiffany’s, Louis Vuitton,Jimmy Choo, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, and more. Be preparedto drop some serious Benjamins on designer dresses, impeccablesuits, handbags, and jewelry in this pricey neighborhood along theMaryland border. Wisconsin and Western aves. Metro: Friendship Heights.Friendship Heights, D.C.
110TheBestShoppingcap, and beret in stylish designs isrepresented, along with pictureframes, gift books, and funky clothes.1350 Connecticut Ave. NW. y 202/842-3055. www.propertopper.com.Metro: Dupont Circle. Map p 106.★★★ Thomas Pink DOWNTOWN Dapper gentlemen from the nation’scapital descend upon this Londonoutpost for well-cut business suits,power ties, cufflinks, crisp and col-orful shirts, and tailored service.Inside the Mayflower Hotel. 1127Connecticut Ave. NW (btw. L and Msts.). y 202/223-5390. www.thomaspink.com. AE, MC, V. Metro: Farra-gut North. Map p 106.★ Urban Chic GEORGETOWN Ifyou dress like a casual-but-chic Holly-wood starlet, and you’re intent onfinding chandelier earrings, aslouched hobo bag, a flirty blouse, orpricey designer denim, then off yougo: Urban Chic awaits. 1626 Wiscon-sin Ave. NW (btw. Q St. and ReservoirRd.). y 202/338-5398. www.urbanchic-dc.com. AE, DISC, MC, V.No Metro access. See “Traveling toGeorgetown,” on p 91. Map p 106.Flowers & Gifts★ Pulp DC 14TH STREET A formerSan Francisco AIDS activist openedthis community-welcoming gift shopin 2001. People can sit at the “cardAve. NW. Nearby locations inGeorgetown, Penn Quarter, andBethesda. y 202/588-0027. www.loulouboutiques.com. AE, MC, V.Metro: Dupont Circle. Map p 106.Nine West DOWNTOWN Alreadywell-known from coast to coast, thisstand-alone outpost carries inexpen-sive boots, espadrilles, and flats tohave you stepping pretty in the city.1029 Connecticut Ave. NW. y 202/331-3243. www.ninewest.com. Metro:Farragut North. Map p 106.Proper Topper DUPONT CIRCLE From the name alone, you can prob-ably guess what this tiny shopspecializes in. Every type of hat,Proper Topper.Pulp DC.
111ShoppingAtoZexperts hosts regular wine tastings.2436 Wisconsin Ave. NW (at 37th St.).y 202/333-6666. www.pearsonswine.com. MC, V. Bus line: D1 or D2.Map p 106.Furniture & Home DesignAntique Row GEORGETOWN Depending on which way you’rewalking, Antique Row is either a coolcruise downhill or a steep trek up it.In any event, antiques lovers won’tcare—they’ll be too busy gaping atthe storefronts with mint-condition18th-century divans, beautifullypainted Persian consoles, weatheredceramic water jugs, and other singu-lar finds. The best of the lot: CarlingNichols; Gore-Dean; and, forearly-20th-century fans, Random Har-vest. Bring your black Amex card forthis shopping stroll—prices aresteep. Wisconsin Ave., from S St. to NSt. No Metro access. See “Travelingto Georgetown,” on p 91. Map p 106.★★ Cady’s Alley GEORGETOWN Make tracks to Washington’s newestdistrict devoted to furnishings andaccessories. Not long ago, Cady’sAlley was all industrial space andabandoned lofts. Now, if you walkthrough a bricked archway off MStreet and descend a flight of stairsinto a hidden alcove, you’ll discovershops such as Contemporaria forItalian furniture, Bulthaup for ultra-luxe culinary gadgets, Illuminationsbar” to journal; write notes onunusual, handcrafted cards; or chatwith neighbors. 1803 14th St. NW (atS St.). y 202/462-7857. www.pulpdc.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. Metro:Cardozo/U St. Map p 106.★ Ultra Violet Flowers GEORGE-TOWN In the doghouse? Wooingyour beloved? Mother’s Day? Nomatter. Call Ultra Violet for a floralconcoction exploding with color andsweet, intoxicating scents. 121831st St. NW (near M St.). y 202/333-3002. www.ultravioletflowersdc.com. AE, MC, V. No Metro access.See “Traveling to Georgetown,” onp 91. Map p 106.Food & Wine★ Dean & Deluca GEORGETOWN Crave a dark chocolate bar fromSwitzerland? How about a custardfruit tart? Gourmands with a nose forfragrant cheeses, fresh fish, out-of-season fruit, choice-cut meats, agedwines, Kona coffee beans, and Euro-pean crackers shop and nosh here.In fine weather, enjoy lunch at theoutdoor cafe. 3276 M St. NW (atPotomac St.). y 202/342-2500.www.deandeluca.com. AE, DISC, MC,V. No Metro access. See “Traveling toGeorgetown,” on p 91. Map p 106.★ Pearson’s GLOVER PARK Thisneighborhood standby sells morethan 2,000 fine wines, liqueurs, andspirits. A knowledgeable staff of 15Housewares at Cady’s Alley in Georgetown.
112TheBestShopping★★ Muléh 14TH STREET OwnerChristopher Reiter mixes it up atMuléh (pronounced “moo-lay”) withhis Asian-inspired collection ofwooden benches and tables, mini-malist bed frames, sophisticatedbric-a-brac, and racks of city-slickclothing by young designers. 183114th St. NW (at Swann St.). y 202/667-3440. www.muleh.com. AE, MC,V. Metro: Cardozo/U St. Map p 106.The Old Print Gallery GEORGE-TOWN Fans of old prints and mapsfrom the 16th century and up willrevel in this tiny shop’s collectionthat features only originals—noreproductions—and many withscenes of D.C. 1220 31st St. N.y 202/965-1818. www.oldprintgallery.com. No Metro access. See“Traveling to Georgetown,” on p 91.Map p 106.Susquehanna Antique Com-pany GEORGETOWN Peruse a wideselection of 17th-, 18th- and 19th-cen-tury antiques and fine art, plus uniquecast-iron decorations, at this antiquescompany in Georgetown. 3216 O St.NW (btw. Wisconsin Ave. andPotomac St.). y 202/333-1511.www.susquehannaantiques.com. No Metroaccess. See “Traveling to George-town,” on p 91. Map p 106.for European lighting, and Poggen-pohl Studio for German kitchen fix-tures. 3300 block of M St. NW. www.cadysalley.com. No Metro access.See “Traveling to Georgetown,” onp 91. Map p 106.Home Rule U STREET Funky fur-nishings, housewares, kitchen gad-gets, and bath items are packed intothis storefront. Have a kid who likesto cook? You’ll find great gifts of allvariety here. 1807 14th St. NW.y 202/797-5544. www.homerule.com. Metro: U Street/Cardozo. Mapp 106.★★ Millennium U STREET/CAR-DOZO Do you groove on pleatherchairs, mid-20th-century coffeetables, stainless steel bookcases, oreven white vinyl microminis? Millen-nium is a must for fans of design fromthe ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s. 1528 U St. NW(at 15th St.). y 202/483-1218. Metro:Cardozo/U St. Map p 106.Miss Pixie’s U STREET Scaven-ger hunters will love Miss Pixie’sgiant new space, which is filled withsecondhand furnishings, funkychandeliers, table settings, figu-rines, and other zany knickknacks(plastic flamingos, anyone?). 162614th St. NW. y 202/232-8171.www.misspixies.com. Metro: UStreet/Cardozo. Map p 106.Home Rule.Muléh.
113ShoppingAtoZy 202/331-7333. www.theguitarshop.com. DISC, MC, V. Metro:Dupont Circle. Map p 106.Middle C Music TENLEYTOWN Looking for the perfect drum set orsheet music for the aspiring musi-cian? Stop in to this packed shopthat carries music of all genres,accessories, gifts, books—andhosts lessons, too. 4530 WisconsinAve. NW. y 202/244-7326. www.middlecmusic.com. DISC, MC, V.Metro: Tenleytown. Map p 106.PetsThe Dog Shop GEORGETOWN Fido gets the star treatment here,Timothy Paul Carpets & Tex-tiles LOGAN CIRCLE Interior designenthusiasts, make a mental note tovisit this husband-and-wife-ownedboutique/gallery, specializing in cus-tom-colored textiles, upscale carpetlines, antique rugs, and unusual light-ing fixtures. 1404 14th St. NW (atRhode Island Ave.). y 202/319-1100.www.timothypaulcarpets.com. AE,MC, V. Metro: McPherson Sq. orDupont Circle. Map p 106.Jewelry★★★ Tiny Jewel Box DOWN-TOWN Thinking of popping thequestion or surprising your sweetiewith a fabulous bauble, expensivewatch, or eye-popping ring from anestate sale? Look no further thanthis D.C. mainstay, a peddler ofromantic, unique adornments. 1147Connecticut Ave. NW (at M St.).y 202/393-2747. www.tinyjewelbox.com. AE, MC, V. Metro: FarragutNorth. Map p 106.Music & Musical Instruments★ The Guitar Shop DUPONT CIR-CLE Aspiring Cobains, Springs-teens, and Youngs converge here topluck strings, caress Fenders andRickenbackers, and brag about theirnext (or last) gigs to the authentic (ifoccasionally bitter) musiciansbehind the cash registers. 1216 Con-necticut Ave. NW (at Jefferson St.).Browse clothing and accessories at Muléh.Timothy Paul Carpet & Textiles.
114TheBestShopping★★ Sassanova GEORGETOWN “Stylish women in Washington”ceased to be an oxymoron whenSassanova opened up in 2004, car-rying designers such as BettyeMuller, Lambertson Truex, Holly-would, and Lulu Guinness, in sweetslingbacks, saucy stilettos, wickedwedges, and funky flats. Warning:Expect to blow at least $200 here.1641 Wisconsin Ave. NW (at 33rdSt.). y 202/471-4400. www.sassanova.com. AE, MC, V. NoMetro access. See “Traveling toGeorgetown,” on p 91. Map p 106.Thrift & Flea Markets★★ Eastern Market CAPITOLHILL If Washingtonians could nameonly one institution endemic to thecity that had nothing to do with poli-tics, 9 out of 10 would say EasternMarket. Locals gather here on week-ends for the flea market, outdoorvendors, artisans, and brunch spots.Its permanent buildings are openyear-round, Tuesday through Sun-day; the outdoor lot fills on week-ends (Mar–Dec) with farmers andfresh produce, plus bargain hunterslooking to score great deals. 225 7thSt. SE (btw. N. Carolina Ave. and C St.SE). y 202/698-5253. www.easternmarket-dc.com. Metro: Eastern Mar-ket. Map p 105.Georgetown Flea MarketGEORGETOWN Every Sunday(unless it’s pouring rain or freezingcold outside), bargain hunters trollthe lot at the Corcoran School forcheap treasures. Score handmadeand antique jewelry, velvet Elvispaintings, secondhand leather jack-ets, and used furniture from weath-ered vendors, smoking cigarettesand ready to haggle. Wisconsin Ave.NW (at Whitehaven St. NW). www.georgetownfleamarket.com. NoMetro access. See “Traveling toGeorgetown,” on p 91. Map p 106.•where you can grab gourmet treats,supplies, and toys. A huge plus:They deliver. 1625 Wisconsin Ave.NW. y 202/337-3647. www.dogshopdc.com. No Metro access. See“Traveling to Georgetown,” on p 91.Map p 106.★★ Metro Mutts H STREET Spoiled felines and diva dogs knowwhere to send their masters for all-organic kibble; irresistible catnip;pigs’ ears; and designer bones, col-lars, harnesses, and other supplies.508 H St. NE. y 202/450-5661. www.metromuttsdc.com. AE, DISC, MC, V.Metro: Union Station. Map p 105.Shoes★★ Hu’s Shoes GEORGETOWN A rather daunting showroom—youmight be the only customer fendingoff several hungry salespeople—displays the latest and greatest inwomen’s “rebellious” designershoes, including Sonia Rykiel, Chloé,Proenza Schouler, and more. 3005M St. NW (at 30th St.). y 202/342-0202. www.hushoes.com. AE, DC,DISC, MC, V. No Metro access. See“Traveling to Georgetown,” on p 91.Map p 106.Tiny Jewel Box.
6 The Best OutdoorActivities
116TheBestOutdoorActivitiesRock Creek ParkPrevious page: Biking along the Potomac River.2929MMCleveland ParkVan Ness–UDCMARYLANDDISTRICTOFCOLUMBIAWALTER REEDARMYMEDICALCENTERQuarryParkingVALLEYTRAILWESTERNRIDGETRAILSOAPSTONEVALLEY PARKLITTLEFORESTPARKNATIONALZOOLOGICALPARKNature Center andPlanetariumPeirceMillCandyCaneCityMiller CabinBattlegroundNationalCemeteryFortStevensPark PoliceRock Creek StationEquitationFieldBoxOfficeJules JusserandMemorialWashingtonNational CathedralPeirceBarnFortDeRussyMilkhouseFordRapids BridgePulpitRockRolling MeadowBridgeRiley SpringBridgeBoundaryBridgeBallfieldsTennis CourtsBluffBridgeBoulderBridgePark HeadquartersKlingle MansionChestnut St.Kalmia Rd.17thSt. Juniper St.Holly St.HollySt.Daniel Rd.WesternAve.BeechSt.Aberfoyle Pl.31stSt.Tennyson St.Rittenhouse St.OregonAve.30thSt.Bingham Dr.Wise Rd.Rittenhouse St.Whittier St.Aspen St.ManchesterMorrow Dr.RossDr.BeachDr.ColoradoAve.BlagdenAve.13thSt.ArkansasAve.UpshurSt.ParkRd.BeachDr.Audubon Ter.29thSt.AlbemarleBrandywineSt.St.GloverRd.GrantRd.BroadBranchRd.Klingle Rd.AdamsMillRd.Woodley Rd.34thSt.Porter St.Van Ness St.Rodman St.Tilden St.Porter St.Rd.AlaskaAve.ConnecticutAve.Military Rd.16thSt.St.17thParksideD r.Beach Dr.NebraskaAve.27thSt.JoyceRd.16thSt.Piney Branch Pkwy.Ln.Leland St.ConnecticutAve.16thSt.KlingleParkRd.Kennedy St.RockCreekPinehurstBranchBroadBranchRockCreekMilitary Rd.Cleveland ParkVan Ness–UDCMARYLANDDISTRICTOFCOLUMBIAWALTER REEDARMYMEDICALCENTERQuarryParkingVALLEYTRAILWESTERNRIDGETRAILSOAPSTONEVALLEY PARKLITTLEFORESTPARKNATIONALZOOLOGICALPARKNature Center andPlanetariumPeirceMillCandyCaneCityMiller CabinBattlegroundNationalCemeteryFortStevensPark PoliceRock Creek StationEquitationFieldBoxOfficeJules JusserandMemorialWashingtonNational CathedralPeirceBarnFortDeRussyMilkhouseFordRapids BridgePulpitRockRolling MeadowBridgeRiley SpringBridgeBoundaryBridgeBallfieldsTennis CourtsBluffBridgeBoulderBridgePark HeadquartersKlingle MansionChestnut St.Kalmia Rd.17thSt. Juniper St.Holly St.HollySt.Daniel Rd.WesternAve.BeechSt.Aberfoyle Pl.31stSt.Tennyson St.Rittenhouse St.OregonAve.30thSt.Bingham Dr.Wise Rd.Rittenhouse St.Whittier St.Aspen St.ManchesterMorrow Dr.RossDr.BeachDr.ColoradoAve.BlagdenAve.13thSt.ArkansasAve.UpshurSt.ParkRd.BeachDr.Audubon Ter.29thSt.AlbemarleBrandywineSt.St.GloverRd.GrantRd.BroadBranchRd.Klingle Rd.AdamsMillRd.Woodley Rd.34thSt.Porter St.Van Ness St.Rodman St.Tilden St.Porter St.Rd.AlaskaAve.ConnecticutAve.Military Rd.16thSt.St.17thParksideD r.Beach Dr.NebraskaAve.27thSt.JoyceRd.16thSt.Piney Branch Pkwy.Ln.Leland St.ConnecticutAve.16thSt.KlingleParkRd.Kennedy St.Military Rd.RockCreekPinehurstBranchBroadBranchRockCreek3125412Rock Creek Park PlanetariumRock Creek Horse CenterPicnic in the parkRock Creek Park Tennis CenterCarter Barron Amphitheatre4531/2 mi00 0.5 km
117RockCreekParkTipTake a virtual tour of Rock CreekPark and explore its activities andofferings at www.nps.gov/rocr. Thepark runs along Rock Creek and itstributaries from the National Zoo tothe D.C. boundary.How many other major American urban areas have 3,000acres (1,214 hectares) of natural woodlands smack dab in themiddle of the city? Established in 1890 by the Rock Creek Park His-toric District and protected by the U.S. Congress, this greenresource is to Washingtonians what Central Park is to New York-ers—except New Yorkers can’t camp, canoe, or lose themselves formiles on trails that wind beneath canopies of lush-leaved trees, sothick in spots that civilization seems a distant memory. Accessiblethrough numerous entrance points throughout northwest Washing-ton, this urban oasis offers shade and cooler temperatures on hotdays, historic parks, great golf, horseback riding, bird-watching, arefuge for deer and raccoons, and even a 1-mile (1.6km) stretch ofrapids. It also borders the National Zoo. It does have isolated areas,however, so avoid visiting early in the morning or past dusk. Be alert,and bring a friend if you can. START: Metro to Friendship Heights or FortTrotten, then the no. E2 bus to Glover (also called Oregon) and Militaryroads; walk 300 feet (91m) south on the trail to the planetarium1 ★ =Rock Creek ParkPlanetarium and Nature Cen-ter. Stargazers come to the plane-tarium to stare at the heavens.Track the night skies here with thewhole family, and take your littleones (ages 4 and up, please) to spe-cial astronomical programs on theweekends. The Nature Center is alsothe setting of numerous activities,including nature films, crafts dem-onstrations, live animal demonstra-tions, guided nature walks, and adaily mix of lectures and otherevents. Self-guided nature trailsbegin here. All activities are free,but you need to pick up tickets ahalf-hour in advance for planetariumshows. There are also nature exhib-its on the premises. For a schedule,check out www.nps.gov/rocr/planyourvisit/naturecenter.htm. Not far from the Nature Center isFort DeRussy, one of 68 fortifica-tions erected to defend the city ofWashington during the U.S. Civil War.From the intersection of Military Roadand Oregon Avenue, walk a short trailthrough the woods to reach the fort,the remains of which include highearth mounds with openings whereguns were mounted, surrounded by adeep ditch/moat. @ 2 hr. Metro: SeeStart, above.Rock Creek Park is a natural haven fromthe bustle of the city.
118TheBestOutdoorActivitiesOnce you enter wooded Rock CreekPark, you won’t stumble upon toomany fast-food joints in the under-brush. Bring along a lunch for a3 picnic in the park and stop atany of the 30 picnic areas through-out the grounds; some have rainshelters. Many can be reserved forgroups up to 100. Reservations forlarge parties must be made in per-son at the D.C. Department of Parksand Recreation, 3149 16th St. NW.y 202/673-7646.4 Rock Creek Park TennisCenter. The home of the annualLegg Mason Tennis Classic offersexcellent hard and soft court facili-ties, a pro shop, and a stadium. Freetennis courts can be found through-out the District, so if you love agood match and aren’t too particu-lar about the state of the facilities—expect faded hard courts, piles ofleaves in the corners, and some-what sagging nets—hurry to publicparks such as Montrose (R St.,btw. 30th and 31st sts.), Rose (Pand 28th sts.), and Volta (34th andVolta sts.) in Georgetown, and waityour turn. (Courtesy allows for play-ers to use the courts for 1 hourbefore relinquishing them to thosewaiting on the sidelines.) That said,those for whom well-kept facilitiesare a priority will enjoy the RockCreek Park Tennis Center. @ 1 hr.16th and Kennedy sts. NW. Reserva-tions: y 202/722-5949. www.rockcreektennis.com. Court rentalsper hour $10–$19. Hours varydepending on the month.5 ★★★ Carter Barron Amphi-theatre. Want to see Shakespeareunder the stars, or catch a sym-phony concert or dance perfor-mance? This amphitheater, in RockCreek Park on Colorado Avenue off17th Street, seats 1,500 patrons. It2 ★★ =Rock Creek HorseCenter. Next door to the planetar-ium, beginners can take privatelessons in the ring, and more experi-enced riders can sign up for trailrides on weekdays with a profes-sional trail guide. Supervised ponyrides for very young children are alsoquite popular; there is no age limit,but your tyke must be at least 30inches (.76m) tall to join in the fun.@ 1 hr. 5100 Glover Rd. y 202/362-0117. www.rockcreekhorsecenter.com. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm.Joggers and cyclists in Rock Creek Park.Horseback riding in Rock Creek Park.
119RockCreekParkShows with admission fees are $25at the Carter Barron Box Office, orthrough Ticketmaster outlets (www.ticketmaster.com). Note: All salesare final, even if the show is can-celed; in this unlucky case, custom-ers forfeit their tickets. @ 2 hr. Bus:S1, 2, or 3. Take 16th St. N, and getoff at Colorado Ave. The tennis cen-ter is a few blocks north, visible from16th St., at Kennedy St.opened in 1950 to commemoratethe 150th anniversary of Washing-ton as the nation’s capital city.Nearly 60 years later, it’s a localfavorite among nature lovers andtheater fans. Some shows are free but requiretickets, distributed on the day ofperformance at the Carter BarronBox Office (noon–8pm), and at theWashington Post building, 115015th St. NW (8:30am on weekdays).A serene, 91-acre wilderness preserve, ★★ Roosevelt IslandPark is a memorial to the nation’s 26th president and his contribu-tions to conservation. The swamp, marsh, and upland forest com-prise a haven for rabbits, chipmunks, great owls, foxes, muskrats,turtles, and groundhogs. You can observe these flora and fauna intheir natural environs on 2.5 miles (4km) of foot trails. By car, take theGeorge Washington Memorial Parkway exit north from the TheodoreRoosevelt Bridge. Parking is accessible only from the northboundlane; a pedestrian bridge connects the lot to the island. You can alsorent a canoe at Thompson’s Boat Center (y 202/333-9543; www.thompsonboatcenter.com) and paddle over. @ 3 hr. including commute.y 703/289-2500. www.nps.gov/this. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.Metro: Rosslyn, then walk 2 blocks to Rosslyn Circle and cross the bridge.Theodore Roosevelt Island ParkTheodore Roosevelt Island Park.
121C&OCanalThis towpath, along the Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) Canal,is another stunning natural escape from the bustle of the city.A stretch of tree-lined land curves along the Potomac River at thecanal’s start in Georgetown, then winds north along the border ofWest Virginia before ending in Cumberland, Maryland. First opened in1828 for the purpose of hauling coal between these two ports, the185-mile (298km) canal and its path are now peopled with leisureboaters, joggers, bikers, power walkers, lovers out for afternoonstrolls, campers, and kids. The stunning Potomac River Valley servesas an ever-changing backdrop to all this outdoor activity; summers aregorgeously green, autumn is ablaze in color, and the river itself can beplacid or turbulent, but it always makes for prime viewing. START: ThePotomac River, at M or K street in Georgetown; no Metro access1 ★ The C&O Canal Towpath.During milder months, when tour-ists take over the Mall, you’ll findWashingtonians biking, jogging, orwalking here en masse, unwindingafter a long week. Start in George-town at the western end of K Street(beneath the Whitehurst Fwy.), andthen make your way west, followingthe river. The first few miles areinundated with walkers, so bikersmight want to take the parallel Capi-tal Crescent Trail, which is pavedand closer to the river. The CapitalCrescent Trail eventually intersectswith the Rock Creek Trail; take thelatter for a convenient circular tripof about 22 miles (35km). This trailand the C&O towpath meet near the3-mile (5km) marker; track yourprogress with regular mile markersalong the route. To rent a bikenearby, visit either of two pro shopson M Street, Revolution Cycles(3411 M St. NW; y 202/965-3601)or Bicycle Pro Shop (3403 M St.NW; y 202/337-0311). Or stop byThompson’s Boat Center (atthe start of the trail in Georgetownat 2900 Virginia Ave. NW; y 202/333-9543; www.thompsonboatcenter.com), which rents bicycles inaddition to canoes and other rivercraft. @ 3 hr.A barge on the C&O Canal.
122TheBestOutdoorActivitiesbicycle. Both outfits rent kayaks andcanoes (Thompson’s even offersinstructional programs), and Fletch-er’s has a snack bar and nearby pic-nic grounds, too. @ 2 hr.3 ★★★ Explore Great Falls. Aday trip worth taking, this 800-acre(324-hectare) park is known for itsscenic beauty, steep gorges, anddramatic waterfalls and rapids, withseveral overlooks along the riverthat may take your breath away. It’salong the C&O Canal, 14 miles(23km) upriver from Washington inMcLean, Virginia, but ambitious bik-ers can reach it via the towpath. Inthe summer, take your family for aride on a mule-drawn canal boat.Park rangers don period costumesas they operate replica canal boatsand share the history of the canalduring these trips from Great Falls.Note: Ten or more people arerequired to make a reservation. Oth-erwise, seats are available at a firstcome, first-served basis. @ 3 hr.Georgetown and Great Falls bargerides: $8 per visitor (ages 15–61), $6for seniors (ages 62 and up), $5 forchildren (ages 4–14), children age 3and under ride free. Call Great Falls2 Rent a canoe or kayak.There are two convenient boatrental centers near the start of thetowpath: the aforementionedThompson’s Boat Center (2900Virginia Ave. NW; y 202/333-9543),and Fletcher’s Boathouse (4940Canal Rd. NW; y 202/244-0461)at the 3-mile (5km) marker, whichis easiest to reach on foot or byGreat Falls.C&O Canal Visitors’ Centers are scattered along the route, butonly two will likely interest travelers to Washington. The first is inGeorgetown (1057 Thomas Jefferson St. NW; y 202/653-5190),near the start of the towpath. It offers historical information and aquick place for a bathroom break. Hungry explorers will find noshortage of food options nearby, on K Street, Washington Harbour,and nearby M Street. The second center is Great Falls Tavern(11710 MacArthur Blvd., Potomac, Md.; y 301/767-3714), whichprovides information, restrooms, and a small snack bar. If you makeit to Great Falls, consider stopping at Old Anglers Inn (10801MacArthur Blvd., Potomac, MD; y 301/299-9097; entrees $29–$39; AE, DC, MC, V; lunch Tues–Sat; dinner daily; brunch Sat–Sun),for great New American fare and a fireplace.Snacks & Facts
123C&OCanalPkwy.). Follow the GWMP to the exitfor I-495 S. When you are on theramp, stay in the right-hand lane,which will turn into the exit ramp forRte. 193, Georgetown Pike. Take a leftat the traffic light onto Rte. 193 West.In 3 miles (5 km), make a right at OldDominion Dr. to access the park.to confirm boats are running. FromD.C. by car: Take Constitution Ave.NW/U.S. 50 to I-66 W./U.S. 50 W. outof the city across Roosevelt MemorialBridge. Continue until you reach theU.S. 50 W./Arlington Blvd./GW Pkwy.exit. Turn north onto George Wash-ington Memorial Pkwy. (GWMP or GWHanging out in Georgetown Park, along the C&O Canal.Washingtonians know that the Metro and taxis aren’t alwaysreliable. For a go-anywhere, do-anything mode of transport in thecity, turn to Capital Bikeshare, which has quickly become one of themost popular ways to get around D.C. Sign up for a 24-hour, 3-day,30-day, or year-long membership, and you’ll have more than 1,200bicycles at your disposal at 140 stations across the city, Virginia,and Maryland. Hop on in one location and return your bike atyour destination, no back-tracking required. Membership fees $7(24 hrs) to $75 (annual). For more information, visit www.capitalbikeshare.com.Wheels on the Go
124TheBestOutdoorActivitiesGeorgetown29MPotomac RiverRockCreekC&O CanalFoggy Bottom–GWUWhitehurst Fwy. NWWater St. NW (under fwy.) K St. NWM St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWI St. NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWReservoir Rd. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWN St. NWM St. NW M St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NW25thSt.NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thStNW23rdSt.NW24thSt.NWT St. NWS St. NW S St. NWR St. NWR St. NW35thSt.NWP St. NW28thSt.NW31stSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NWK St. NW (under fwy.)RockCreek&PotomacPkwy.NWDumbarton Ave. NWCanal Rd.NW 27thSt.NWWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYROCK CREEKPARKGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYLover’sLaneFOGGYBOTTOMGEORGETOWNVIRGINIAFootbridgesPotomac RiverRockCreekC&O CanalFoggy Bottom–GWUWhitehurst Fwy. NWWater St. NW (under fwy.) K St. NWM St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWI St. NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWReservoir Rd. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWN St. NWM St. NW M St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NW25thSt.NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thStNW23rdSt.NW24thSt.NWT St. NWS St. NW S St. NWR St. NWR St. NW35thSt.NWP St. NW28thSt.NW31stSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NWK St. NW (under fwy.)RockCreek&PotomacPkwy.NWDumbarton Ave. NWCanal Rd.NW 27thSt.NWWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYROCK CREEKPARKGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYLover’sLaneFootbridgesFOGGYBOTTOMGEORGETOWNVIRGINIA12354Dumbarton OaksLover’s LaneOak HillCemeterySara’s MarketMount VernonTrail124351/4 mi00 0.25 kmThe capital’s most exclusive neighborhood—with its prize-winning gardens, gargantuan homes, and boldface names outwalking their dogs—offers visitors an ideal balance of eye candy andhistory, best enjoyed under a canopy of trees and blue skies. Tourthe parks, stop to smell the flowers, study the statuary, and picnicon the grass with a great bottle of wine. START: Dumbarton Oaks gar-den entrance at 31st and R streets in Georgetown; no Metro accessFor an outdoor walking tour ofGeorgetown, see p 90.1 ★★ Dumbarton Oaks. Enjoythe traditional French, Italian, andEnglish gardens at this once-privatehome, now open to the public fortours. Discover bubbling fountains,stone archways, romantic hide-aways, tiled pools, and even aRoman-style amphitheater. Floraincludes an orangery, a rose gar-den, wisteria-covered arbors,groves of cherry trees, andmagnolias. When everything is inbloom, you can spend as long as anhour here. @ 1 hr. 1703 32nd St.NW. y 202/339-6410. www.doaks.org. $8 adults, $5 seniors and chil-dren. Gardens: Tues–Sun year-round; Mar 15–Oct 31 2–6pm; Nov1–Mar 14 2–5pm (except nationalholidays and Dec 24).2 ★ Lover’s Lane. Follow thedownhill, paved road that hugsDumbarton Oaks’s bricked wall nextto Montrose Park. At the bottom,
125Georgetownfresh fruit, a bag of nuts, and/or adecent bottle of wine to take withyou into the great outdoors. 3008 QSt. NW (at 30th St.).5 ★★ Mount Vernon Trail. Justacross the river from downtownGeorgetown, on Theodore Roos-evelt Island, bikers, hikers, and jog-gers enter this scenic 18-mile(29km) trail. The path hugs the Vir-ginia side of the Potomac River andoffers breathtaking views of theclassic monuments, memorials, andthe river itself. Follow its courseover bridges and through parks, andyou’ll eventually arrive at GeorgeWashington’s historic Mount Ver-non home (p 56). @ 3 hr. y 703/289-2500. www.nps.gov/gwmp/mtvernontrail.htm. Metro: Rosslyn.hang to the left and discover a gen-tly cultivated enclave of gurglingbrooks, weeping willow trees, wild-flowers, and carefully placedbenches for maximum romance andrelaxation. @ 20 min.3 ★ Oak Hill Cemetery. Remi-niscent of Europe’s historic ceme-teries, the iron-gated, hilly groundshere are both beautifully kept andvisually breathtaking. Spot a wild foxor a deer among the hundreds of19th- and 20th-century headstonesand the wealth of ornate statuary;stroll down toward the creek onwinding paths as you tour yester-day’s VIPs—and tell them to RIP.@ 30 min. 30th and R sts. Mon–Fri9am–4:30pm; closed to the publicduring funerals.Oak Hill Cemetery.Children playing in Dumbarton OaksPark.Just off the corner of 30th and Qstreets is 4 Sara’s Market, asweet, family-owned deli stockedwith upscale treats. Choose from asmall selection of prepared sand-wiches in the cooler, or grab someBritish shortcakes, a snack bar,
127TheMall&TidalBasinBefore it was the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. was aswamp. And if you wander the Mall and Tidal Basin in July orAugust, you’ll have no trouble imagining what it was like, way backwhen. But few American urban environments can beat the Mall andTidal Basin’s outdoor appeal in spring, when Japanese cherry blossomstransform the cityscape, or in fall, with its perfect sweater weather.Throw in miles of bike and jogging paths in the heart of the city; botani-cal gardens; a galloping river; and plenty of green spaces, and you’vegot a rationale for avoiding the indoors. START: Metro to Smithsonian1 ★ =Stroll the PotomacRiver. Whether you begin yourwalk in Georgetown, at WashingtonHarbour, or head toward the rivernear the Watergate Hotel or the Lin-coln Memorial, spend some timepromenading. You’ll pass a legion ofresident joggers; admire universitycrew teams sliding through thewaves; catch grand glimpses of thememorials, monuments, andbridges; observe historic George-town from afar; pass 10 or morevolleyball games in progress; picnicon the grass with kindred spiritsinclined to stop and smell the roses;and root for fishermen who casttheir rods in hopes of catching “thebig one.” On a beautiful day, noth-ing beats it. @ 1 hr.Paddle boats on the Tidal Basin.Over 100 years ago in 1912, Tokyo gave Washington 3,000 deli-cately flowering, fragrant cherry trees in recognition of the growingfriendship between the two cities. In 1965, Tokyo gave D.C. anadditional 3,800 trees. Today, an estimated 700,000 travelers fromall around the world arrive en masse every April, the peak of thecherry blossom season, to wander amid their vivid color and headyfragrance during the 2-week Cherry Blossom Festival. For a com-plete schedule of events, visit the official website, www.nationalcherryblossomfestival.org.Cherry Blossoms in Washington
128TheBestOutdoorActivitiesOrder a quiche and a macaroon to goat 6 PAUL, a bustling French bistroand sidewalk cafe, and Parisian trans-plant right on Pennsylvania Avenue.801 Pennsylvania Ave. NW. y 202/524-4500. www.paul-usa.com. AE, DC,DISC, MC, V. Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown or Archives. $–$$.•The 3★★ Smithsonian Castle,just off the Mall on IndependenceAvenue, is an ideal spot to rest (ifyour dogs are barking) and to snack(if you’re hungry like the wolf). It’salso information central for theSmithsonian museums, so grab asandwich or muffin and pick up abrochure to plan your next adven-ture. 1000 Jefferson Dr. SW. Daily8:30am–5:30pm. Metro: Smithson-ian. $–$$.dedication ceremonies, children’sworkshops, orchestra concerts, holi-day happenings, and much more onthe National Mall. Check out www.nps.gov/nama to find out what’shappening during your visit.5 ★ =Rent paddle boatson the Tidal Basin. Whetheryou’re a kid or just a kid at heart,head to the Tidal Basin, weatherpermitting, and get ready to exer-cise your right to see the JeffersonMemorial while working up a sweat.@ 1 hr. 2-passenger boat $12 perhr.; 4-passenger boat $19 per hr.Mar 15 to Labor Day daily 10am–6pm. Metro: Smithsonian Station(Blue/Orange lines; use the 12th St.and Independence Ave. exit). Walkwest on Independence toward 15thSt. Turn left on Raoul WallenbergPlace/15th St. and continue towardthe Jefferson Memorial; look for theTidal Basin Paddle Boat dock.2 Reflect at the ReflectingPool. Pedestrian paths surroundthis 1⁄3-mile-long (.5km) body ofwater that visually connects the Lin-coln Memorial and WashingtonMonument. It’s also the site wherethousands gathered to hear Rev.Martin Luther King, Jr. recite his leg-endary “I Have a Dream” speech in1963. His followers stood aroundthe pool—and in it—as they lis-tened to the words that wouldchange a nation. @ 20 min.The Smithsonian Kite Festival on the National Mall.4 ★★★ =Attend an eventon the Mall. Depending on thetime of year when you arrive inWashington, you may stumble uponethnic festivals, fireworks, kite-flyingcelebrations, dance performances,
7 The Best Dining
130TheBestDining13953953951MMMMMMMMMMMWashingtonChannelMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterJudiciarySqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianSmithsonianMcPhersonSquareK St. NWN St. NWM St. NWI St. NWI St. NWM St. NWL St. NWL St. NWL St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.SWVermontAve.NW9thSt.NW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW6thStNW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW10thSt.NW10thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWConstitution Ave. NW15thSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve. NWNew YorkAve.NWNew YorkK St. NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SWG St. NWG St. NWMassachusetts Ave. NWMassachusettsH St. NWJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWC St. SWD St. SWMaine Ave.SWMaine Ave.SWPennsylvania Ave.NWPenn. Ave. NWThomasCircleMt. VernonSquareMcPhersonSquareFreedom PlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenEnid A. HauptGardenHancockParkFranklinSquareJohn MarshallParkNat’l BuildingMuseumNat’lArchivesDept.ofJusticeGAOVerizonCenterFBISmithsonianAmerican Art Museum/Nat’l Portrait GalleryNational Gallery of ArtNat’l Museumof theAmericanIndianNat’l Museum ofNatural HistoryNat’l Museum ofAmerican HistoryNat’l Air & SpaceMuseumSmithsonian CastleWest Bldg. East Bldg.White HouseVisitors CenterBureau ofEngravingand PrintingDepartmentofAgricultureCommerceDept.TreasuryDept.Nat’l Museumof Womenin the ArtsHirshhornMuseumU.S. NavyMemorialWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterPENN QUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLECHINATOWNWashingtonChannelMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterJudiciarySqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianSmithsonianMcPhersonSquareK St. NWN St. NWM St. NWI St. NWI St. NWM St. NWL St. NWL St. NWL St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.SWVermontAve.NW9thSt.NW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW6thStNW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW10thSt.NW10thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWConstitution Ave. NW15thSt.NWPennsylvaniaAve. NWNew YorkAve.NWNew YorkK St. NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SWG St. NWG St. NWMassachusetts Ave. NWMassachusettsH St. NWJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWC St. SWD St. SWMaine Ave.SWMaine Ave.SWPennsylvania Ave.NWPenn. Ave. NWThomasCircleMt. VernonSquareMcPhersonSquareFreedom PlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenEnid A. HauptGardenHancockParkFranklinSquareJohn MarshallParkNat’l BuildingMuseumNat’lArchivesDept.ofJusticeGAOVerizonCenterFBISmithsonianAmerican Art Museum/Nat’l Portrait GalleryNational Gallery of ArtNat’l Museumof theAmericanIndianNat’l Museum ofNatural HistoryNat’l Museum ofAmerican HistoryNat’l Air & SpaceMuseumSmithsonian CastleWest Bldg. East Bldg.White HouseVisitors CenterBureau ofEngravingand PrintingDepartmentofAgricultureCommerceDept.TreasuryDept.Nat’l Museumof Womenin the ArtsHirshhornMuseumU.S. NavyMemorialWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterPENN QUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLECHINATOWN143124 5678119131210Capitol Hill & Penn Quarter DiningPrevious page: 1789 offers romantic ambience and exquisitely prepared food.
131TheBestDining39569539550MMMMCapitolReflectingPoolUnionStationCapitolSouthEasternMarketNew York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UFStreetTerr.SELouisianaAve. NWNorthCapitolSt.SouthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.M St. NEL St. NEN St. NW N St. NEAve.NWConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWD St. NW1stSt.NW2ndSt.NW2ndSt.SW1stSt.NW1stSt.NEMassachusettsAve.NEAve.NW2ndSt.NE3rdSt.NE4thSt.NE6thSt.NE7thSt.NE5thSt.NEH St. NE H St. NEH St. NWG St. NEF St. NEE St. NED St. NEC St. NE C St. NEDelawareAve.NEA St. NE8thSt.NEMarylandAve. NEConstitution Ave. NEPennsylvaniaAve. SEA St. SESouth CarolinaAve. SENorth Carolina Ave. SEIndependence Ave. SEC St. SEC St. SED St. SED St. SEF St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NE4thSt.SE4thSt.NE6thSt.SE7thSt.SE7thSt.SE8thSt.SEE St. SEG St. SENewJerseyAve.SEWashingtonAve.SWSoutheast FreewayVirginia Ave.SEColumbusCircleFolgerParkBartholdiParkSpirit ofJustice ParkProvidenceParkGarfield ParkMarionParkStantonSquareUnionStationPlazaSewardSquareGaUnCapitolEasternMarketMadisonBldg.JeffersonBldg.U.S. BotanicGardenUnionStationS E N AT E O F F I C EB U I L D I N G SH O U S E O F F I C EB U I L D I N G SLIBRARYOFCONGRESSAdamsBldg.CapitolVisitor CenterentrancesSupremeCourtDept.ofLaborCAPITOL HILLNOMANewJerseyAve.NWNew YorkAve. NECapitolReflectingPoolUnionStationCapitolSouthEasternMarketNew York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UFStreetTerr.SELouisianaAve. NWNorthCapitolSt.SouthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.M St. NEL St. NEN St. NW N St. NEAve.NWNew YorkAve. NEConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWD St. NW1stSt.NW2ndSt.NW2ndSt.SW1stSt.NWNewJerseyAve.NW1stSt.NEMassachusettsAve.NEAve.NW2ndSt.NE3rdSt.NE4thSt.NE6thSt.NE7thSt.NE5thSt.NEH St. NE H St. NEH St. NWG St. NEF St. NEE St. NED St. NEC St. NE C St. NEDelawareAve.NEA St. NE8thSt.NEMarylandAve. NEConstitution Ave. NEPennsylvaniaAve. SEA St. SESouth CarolinaAve. SENorth Carolina Ave. SEIndependence Ave. SEC St. SEC St. SED St. SED St. SEF St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NE4thSt.SE4thSt.NE6thSt.SE7thSt.SE7thSt.SE8thSt.SEE St. SEG St. SENewJerseyAve.SEWashingtonAve.SWSoutheast FreewayVirginia Ave.SEColumbusCircleFolgerParkBartholdiParkSpirit ofJustice ParkProvidenceParkGarfield ParkMarionParkStantonSquareUnionStationPlazaSewardSquareGaUnCapitolEasternMarketMadisonBldg.JeffersonBldg.U.S. BotanicGardenUnionStationS E N AT E O F F I C EB U I L D I N G SH O U S E O F F I C EB U I L D I N G SLIBRARYOFCONGRESSAdamsBldg.CapitolVisitor CenterentrancesSupremeCourtDept.ofLaborCAPITOL HILLNOMA1615Acadiana 2America EatsTavern 9Brasserie Beck 1Capital Grille 12Ceiba 3Central MichelRichard 10CityZen 14Full Kee 6Graffiato 7Jaleo 8Johnny’sHalf Shell 15PAUL 11Proof 5The Source 13Ted’s Bulletin 16Zaytinya 41/4 mi00 0.25 km
132TheBestDining292929666666MMLittleRiverRockCreekC & O CanalPotomac RiverRockCreekRANGELINERosslynFoggy Bottom–GWUPotomacSt.NWN. LynnSt.Wilson Blvd.GeorgeWashingtonMemorialPkwy.M St. NWM St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWQ St. NWQ St. NW Q St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWM St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NW25thSt.NW27thSt.NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thSt.NW23rdSt.NW23rdStNW24thSt.NWConnecticutT St. NWS St. NWS St. NWR St. NWR St. NWReservoir Rd. NW37thSt.NW36thSt.NW35thSt.NWVirginiaAve. NWE St. Expwy.28thSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NWCalifornia St. NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWCanal Rd.NWDumbarton Ave. NWCalvert St. NWRock Creek &Potomac Pkwy.NWShorehamDr. NWWhitehavenPkwy. NWObservatory Ln. NWWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleTheodore RooseveltMem. BridgeROCK CREEKPARKROCK CREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARKDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYGuy MasonRecreationParkHOLY ROODCEMETERYTheodore RooseveltIslandU.S. NAVALOBSERVATORYKennedyCenterWatergateDumbartonOaksTheodoreRooseveltMemorialGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYGEORGETOWNEMBASSYROWRockCreekandPotomacPkwy.NWWisconsinAve.NWFrancisScottKeyBridgeWater St. NW (under fwy.)Whitehurst Fwy. NWK St. NW (under fwy.)MassachusettsAve. NWMassachusettsAve. NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwyNW.LittleRiverRockCreekC & O CanalPotomac RiverRockCreekRANGELINERosslynFoggy Bottom–GWUPotomacSt.NWWater St. NW (under fwy.)N. LynnSt.Wilson Blvd.GeorgeWashingtonMemorialPkwy.M St. NWM St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWWisconsinAve.NWWisconsinAve.NWDent Pl. NWQ St. NWQ St. NW Q St. NWVolta Pl. NWP St. NWO St. NWN St. NWM St. NWP St. NWO St. NWProspect St. NW Olive Ave. NWWhitehurst Fwy. NW25thSt.NW27thSt.NW32ndSt.NW33rdSt.NW34thSt.NW23rdSt.NW23rdStNW24thSt.NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwyNW.ConnecticutMassachusettsAve. NWT St. NWS St. NWS St. NWR St. NWR St. NWReservoir Rd. NW37thSt.NW36thSt.NW35thSt.NWVirginiaAve. NWE St. Expwy.28thSt.NW31stSt.NW30thSt.NW29thSt.NWCalifornia St. NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWCanal Rd.NWK St. NW (under fwy.)RockCreekandPotomacPkwy.NWDumbarton Ave. NWCalvert St. NWMassachusettsAve. NWRock Creek &Potomac Pkwy.NWShorehamDr. NWWhitehavenPkwy. NWObservatory Ln. NWWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFrancisScottKeyBridgeTheodore RooseveltMem. BridgeROCK CREEKPARKROCK CREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARKDUMBARTONOAKS PARKMONTROSEPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYGuy MasonRecreationParkHOLY ROODCEMETERYTheodore RooseveltIslandU.S. NAVALOBSERVATORYKennedyCenterWatergateDumbartonOaksTheodoreRooseveltMemorialGEORGETOWNUNIVERSITYGEORGETOWNEMBASSYROW1234567 89Ben’s Chili Bowl 14BlackSalt 3BLT Steak 26Blue Duck Tavern 9Bourbon 2Busboys and Poets 12Café Deluxe 2Café Milano 6Café Saint-Ex 16Cashion’s Eat Place 11Citronelle 8Daily Grill 23Dukem Restaurant 15Filomena Ristorante 7Floriana Restaurant 20Founding Farmers 24Georgia Brown’s 27Hank’s Oyster Bar 21Indique 1Kellari 25Komi 22Lauriol Plaza 17Perry’s 10Restaurant Nora 18Serendipity 3 71789 4Tabaq Bistro 13Tackle Box 5Teaism 19Georgetown & DupontCircle Dining
133TheBestDining5012929MMMMMMMMkRockCreekFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMetroCenterFederalTriangleMcPhersonSquareVernon St.NWBiltmore St. NWSwann St. NWCorcoran St. NWChurch St. NWL St. NWK St. NW K St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NW M St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWPennsylvania Ave. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NWI St. NWI St. NW I St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW22ndSt.NW21stSt.NWAve.NWR St. NWColumbiaRd. NW Euclid St. NWU St. NW U St. NWV St. NWW St. NWFloridaAve. NWRhodeIslandAve. NWL St. NWS St. NWO St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NWVermontAve.NWVermontAve.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW13thSt.NWKalorama Rd. NWCaliforniaSt. NWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWH St. NWVirginiaAve. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NW Constitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NW17thSt.NW15thSt.NWFlorida Ave. NWNew York Ave. NW13thSt.NWFlorida Ave. NWNewHampshireAve.NWG St. NWColumbiaRd.NWMassachusettsAve.NWS St. NWConnecticutAve.NWCalvert St. NWKalorama Rd. NWFloridaAve.NWPennsylvania Ave. NWPen n. Ave. NW14thSt.NWScott CircleThomasCircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleLoganCircleFreedom PlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LTheEllipseFranklinSquareLafayetteSquareMeridianHillParkWhiteHouseWhite HouseVisitors CenterGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYStateDepartmentZeroMilestoneTreasuryDept.EisenhowerExecutiveOfficeBuildingCorcoranGalleryPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLEDUPONTCIRCLEADAMSMORGANFOGGYBOTTOMU STREET CORRIDORBeachDr.NW18thSt.NWkRockCreekFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMetroCenterFederalTriangleMcPhersonSquareVernon St.NWBiltmore St. NWSwann St. NWCorcoran St. NWChurch St. NWL St. NWK St. NW K St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NW M St. NWPennsylvania Ave. NWPennsylvania Ave. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NWI St. NWI St. NW I St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW22ndSt.NW21stSt.NWAve.NWR St. NWColumbiaRd. NW Euclid St. NWU St. NW U St. NWV St. NWW St. NWFloridaAve. NWRhodeIslandAve. NWL St. NWS St. NWO St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NWVermontAve.NWVermontAve.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW13thSt.NWKalorama Rd. NWCaliforniaSt. NWNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWH St. NWVirginiaAve. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NW Constitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NW17thSt.NW15thSt.NWFlorida Ave. NWNew York Ave. NW13thSt.NWFlorida Ave. NWNewHampshireAve.NWG St. NWColumbiaRd.NWMassachusettsAve.NW18thSt.NWS St. NWConnecticutAve.NWCalvert St. NWKalorama Rd. NWFloridaAve.NWPennsylvania Ave. NWPen n. Ave. NWBeachDr.NW14thSt.NWScott CircleThomasCircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleLoganCircleFreedom PlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LTheEllipseFranklinSquareLafayetteSquareMeridianHillParkWhiteHouseWhite HouseVisitors CenterGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYStateDepartmentZeroMilestoneTreasuryDept.EisenhowerExecutiveOfficeBuildingCorcoranGalleryPENNQUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLEDUPONTCIRCLEADAMSMORGANFOGGYBOTTOMU STREET CORRIDOR262425232715131416171218 1920212210111/4 mi00 0.25 km
134TheBestDiningBest Fresh Fish★★★ Kellari $$$ 4883 MacArthurBlvd. NW (p 140)Best for Moody PoliticalDebates★ Busboys and Poets 2021 14th St.NW (p 136)Best for Rowdy Rugrats★★ Café Deluxe $$ 3228 WisconsinAve. NW (p 136)Best South of the Border★ Lauriol Plaza $$ 1835 18th St.NW (p 140)Best Crab Cakes★★★ BlackSalt $$$ 4883MacArthur Blvd. NW (p 135)Best Historic Diner★★ Ben’s Chili Bowl $ 1213 U St.NW (p 135)Best Sweet Confections★ Serendipity 3 $ 3150 M St. NW(p 141)Best for Expat Parisians★★ PAUL $ 801 Pennsylvania Ave.NW (p 140)Best Newcomer★ Graffiato $$ 707 6th St. NW(p 139)Best Manhattan Rival★★★ CityZen $$$$ 1330 MarylandAve. SW (p 137)Best for Avoiding Carnivores★ Founding Farmers $$ 1924Pennsylvania Ave. NW (p 138)Best Hotel Eats★★ Blue Duck Tavern $$ 24th andM sts. NW (p 135)Best Fussy French★★★ Citronelle $$$$ 3000 M St.NW (p 137)Best Mussels and Beer★★ Brasserie Beck $$ 1101 K St.NW (p 135)Best All-Organic★★ Restaurant Nora $$$ 2132Florida Ave. NW (p 141)Best for Under 10 Bucks★★ Full Kee $ 509 H St. NW(p 138)Best Sexy Tapas Place★★★ Zaytinya $$ 701 9th St. NW.(p 142)Best for Flirting with ElectedOfficials★★★ Capital Grille $$$$ 601 Penn-sylvania Ave. NW (p 137)Best for Winos★★★ Proof $$$ 775 G St. NW.(p 141)Best for Blue Bloods★ Café Milano $$$ 3251 ProspectSt. NW (p 136)Best Fireside Dining★★★ 1789 $$$$ 1226 36th St. NW(p 141)Dining Best BetsTantalizing tapas at Zaytinya.
135RestaurantsAtoZabout chef Jeff Black’s D.C. catch—this restaurant/fish market, with per-fectly cooked black sea bass, friedIpswich clams, crab cakes, fishstews, and more. 4883 MacArthurBlvd. NW (at V St.). y 202/342-9101. www.blacksaltrestaurant.com.Entrees $25–$35. DC, DISC, MC, V.Lunch Mon–Sat; dinner daily. NoMetro access. Bus: B6. Map p 132.★ BLT Steak DOWNTOWN AMERI-CAN Despite its background as anupscale chain, the eatery servesquality steak with different sauces,and fish from the raw bar. Thechef’s warm popovers are just right.1625 Eye St. NW. y 202/689-8999.www.bltsteak.com. Entrees $29–$45.AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri; din-ner Mon–Sat. Metro: Farragut West.Map p 132.★★ Blue Duck Tavern DOWN-TOWN AMERICAN This downtownrestaurant’s comfortable Americanfeel—hand-carved wooden benchesand chairs, an inviting open kitchen,and a stellar menu—keeps Washing-tonians coming back. 24th and Msts. NW. y 202/419-6755. www.blueducktavern.com. Entrees $13–$36. AE, MC, V. Breakfast daily;brunch Sat–Sun; lunch Mon–Fri; din-ner daily. Metro: Foggy Bottom orFarragut North. Map p 132.★ Bourbon GLOVER PARK AMERI-CAN Young 20-somethings andGlover Park families flock to thisconsistently good restaurant fortater tots, burgers, and bourbonBBQ. 2348 Wisconsin Ave. NW.y 202/625-7770. www.bourbondc.com/home/gp. Entrees $8–$20. AE,DISC, MC, V. Lunch Sat–Sun; dinnerdaily. No Metro access. Map p 132.★★ Brasserie Beck DOWNTOWNBELGIAN Travel to Europe or head★★★ Acadiana DOWNTOWNCAJUN New Orleans is stillrebounding, but its legacy is stronghere, in Cajun fare by Jeff Tunks,who cooked in the Big Easy foryears. Try gumbo with andouille,crawfish pies, or fried okra in thisupscale yet unfussy setting. 901New York Ave. NW (K and 9th sts.).y 202/408-8848. www.acadianarestaurant.com. Entrees $21–$26.AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri; din-ner Mon–Sat. Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown. Map p 130.★★ America Eats TavernDOWNTOWN LATIN AMERICAN Chef José Andrés claims to havemade “American history on yourplate,” and you’ll believe it whenyou peruse the menu, which fea-tures President Johnson’s BrunswickStew and oysters on the half shell.The restaurant even has a vintagesoda fountain. 405 8th St. NW(D and E sts.). y 202/393-0812.www.americaeatstavern.com.Entrees $18–$24. AE, DC, DISC, MC,V. Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner Tues–Sun.Metro: Archives/Navy Memorial.Map p 130.★★ Ben’s Chili Bowl U STREETCORRIDOR AMERICAN Known forits Formica tables, sloppy chili dogs,and late-night banter, this old-timediner has drawn a who’s who ofAfrican-American history since1958—from Martin Luther King, Jr.to Redd Foxx to President BarackObama. 1213 U St. NW (at 12th St.).y 202/667-0909. www.benschilibowl.com. Entrees $10. No creditcards. Mon–Sat breakfast, lunch &dinner; Sun lunch, dinner. Metro:Cardozo/U St. Map p 132.★★★ BlackSalt PALISADES SEA-FOOD Local seafood fans raveRestaurants A to Z
136TheBestDiningAE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch& dinner daily. Metro: Cardozo/U St.Map p 132.★★ =Café Deluxe CATHEDRALAMERICAN Can one bistro reallyserve all? Seems this one does: Guyshang out at the bar and watchsports. Families come early for thekids’ menu and buckets of crayons.Foodies swear by the tuna steaksandwich. Everyone else enjoys thesolid New American fare. 3228 Wis-consin Ave. NW (at Macomb St.).y 202/628-2233. www.cafedeluxe.com. Entrees $12–$20. AE, MC, V.Lunch Mon–Thurs & Sun; dinner Mon–Sun. No Metro access. Map p 132.★ Café Milano GEORGETOWNITALIAN Pushy lobbyists, the soci-ety set, smug playboys, and ambi-tious young women in skimpydresses don’t flock here for thedecent, but unremarkable, Italianfood. They come to make the scene,close a deal, drink too much, touchthe hems of power, and let loose,Washington-style, at this super-charged, always-packed restaurantand lounge. 3251 Prospect St. NW(at M St.). y 202/333-6183. www.cafemilano.net. Entrees $14–$42.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinnerdaily. Metro: Foggy Bottom or Ros-lyn. Map p 132.to this Belgian bistro for authenticbrews and dishes such as steamedmussels, lamb sausage, roasted rab-bit, and more than 50 beers. 1101 KSt. NW. y 202/408-1717. www.beckdc.com. Entrees $23–$32. AE,DISC, MC, V. Brunch Sat–Sun; lunchMon–Fri; dinner daily. Metro: MetroCenter. Map p 130.★ =Busboys and Poets14TH STREET/LOGAN CIRCLE AMERI-CAN Local lit majors, groovy fami-lies, and budget fashionistas flockhere for pizzas, burgers, and sand-wiches, artfully prepared and afford-able. 2021 14th St. NW (V St.).y 202/387-POET (7638). www.busboysandpoets.com. Entrees $9–$17.Oysters at Brasserie Beck.Café Saint-Ex, in 14th Street/U Street Corridor.
137RestaurantsAtoZbrother, Central Michel Richard,dishes out unstuffy fare such asFrench onion soup, mussels, lobsterburgers, and soft shell crab. 1001Pennsylvania Ave. NW. y 202/626-0015. www.centralmichelrichard.com. Entrees $16–$35. Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner daily. Metro: Federal Tri-angle. Map p 130.★★★ Citronelle GEORGETOWNFRENCH Fanatic foodies with cashto burn: Make reservations now. Cit-ronelle’s white-jacketed waiters;linen-dressed tables; and delicatefoie gras carpaccio, caviar penguins,and squab (served three ways)won’t disappoint. 3000 M St. NW(at 30th St.). y 202/625-2150.www.citronelledc.com. Dinnerentrees $85–$150. AE, DC, MC, V.Breakfast & dinner daily. Metro:Foggy Bottom. Map p 132.★★★ CityZen WASHINGTON HAR-BOUR AMERICAN In the posh Man-darin Oriental Hotel, Chef EricZiebold—formerly of The FrenchLaundry, and voted “Best Mid-Atlan-tic Chef” by James Beard in 2008—makes gourmands swoon with hisadventurous cuisine (think black★★★ Café Saint-Ex 14TH STREET/U STREET CORRIDOR AMERICAN This Euro-chic bar and bistro servingNew American fare attracts goateedhipsters and their superciliousdates. A DJ spins in the lounge. 184714th St. NW (at T St.). y 202/265-7839. www.saint-ex.com. Entrees$15–$25. AE, DISC, MC, V. LunchTues–Sun; dinner daily. Metro:Cardozo/U St. Map p 132.★★★ Capital Grille PENN QUAR-TER AMERICAN Cut through thethrong of short-skirted interns andmarried officials at the bar—forjuicy steak and gossip from powerplayers talking too loudly at nearbytables. 601 Pennsylvania Ave. NW(at 6th St.). y 202/737-6200. www.capitalgrille.com. Entrees $20–$45.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Sat;dinner daily. Metro: Archives/NavyMemorial. Map p 130.★★ Cashion’s Eat Place ADAMSMORGAN AMERICAN Carnivoresroar with delight at this neighbor-hood mainstay, with its cramped yetsophisticated interior. The mahog-any bar will likely possess you toorder a martini with your buffalohanger steak. 1819 Columbia Rd.NW (at the Biltmore). y 202/797-1819. www.cashionseatplace.com.Entrees $19–$35. MC, V. DinnerTues–Sat; brunch Sun. Metro: AdamsMorgan/Woodley Park. Map p 132.★★ Ceiba DOWNTOWN LATINAMERICAN If you love Latin Ameri-can ceviche (think fresh tuna mari-nated in lime and mango juice),zingy mojitos, and fashion, book atable at this outpost. 701 14th St.NW (at G St.). y 202/393-3983.www.ceibarestaurant.com. Entrees$16–$29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. LunchMon–Fri; dinner Mon–Sat. Metro:Metro Center. Map p 130.★★ Central Michel RichardDOWNTOWN AMERICAN/FRENCH Citronelles casual, less expensiveDinner at Ceiba.
138TheBestDiningyou’re dining in someone’s very niceliving room. It features some of thebest Italian in the city, too: Thinkbutternut squash ravioli and trufflerisotto. 1602 17th St. NW. y 202/667-5937. www.florianarestaurant.com.Entrees $15–$27. AE, MC, V. Dinnerdaily; brunch Sat–Sun. Metro:Dupont Circle. Map p 132.★ Founding Farmers DOWNTOWNAMERICAN True to its name, thisrestaurant celebrates the Americanfarmer, serving sustainably farmed,grown, and harvested foods. Theheartland-inspired menu rotates sea-sonally, depending on what’s avail-able. 1924 Pennsylvania Ave. NW.y 202/822-8783. www.wearefoundingfarmers.com. Entrees: $20–$30. Lunch& dinner daily; brunch Sat–Sun.Metro: Foggy Bottom. Map p 132.★★ Full Kee CHINATOWN ASIAN The city’s best chefs eat here ontheir days off (Eric Zeibold is a fan).Try the Hong Kong–style shrimpdumpling soup, oyster casserole, orany stir-fry. Open late. 509 H St. NW(at 6th St.). y 202/371-2233. www.fullkeedc.com. Entrees $10. No creditcards. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro:Gallery Place/Chinatown. Map p 130.Georgia Brown’s DOWNTOWNSOUTHERN The dining room maybass and rabbit loin). 1330 MarylandAve. SW (at 12th St.). y 202/787-6148. www.mandarinoriental.com.Entrees $75–$125. AE, DC, DISC, MC,V. Dinner Tues–Sat. Metro: Smithso-nian. Map p 130.★★ =Daily Grill DUPONT CIR-CLE AMERICAN With several loca-tions, this Washington staple isperfect for a quick lunch or dinnerwith kids, whether you’re craving aburger and fries or seared salmonand baked potato. Enjoy roomybooths and an after-work bar scene.1200 18th St. NW (Connecticut Ave.).y 202/822-5282. www.dailygrill.com. Entrees $16–$30. AE, DC, DISC,MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro:Dupont Circle. Map p 132.★ Dukem Restaurant U STREETETHIOPIAN D.C. is known for itsflourishing Ethiopian population. Din-ers looking for an authentic taste ofthe culture need look no further thanthis popular downtown restaurant,offering traditional sambusa, kitfo,and injera, and a large variety ofvegetarian options. 1114–1118 U St.,NW. y 202/667-8735. www.dukemrestaurant.com. Entrees $12–$29.AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily.Metro: U Street/Cardozo. Map p 132.★★ Filomena RistoranteGEORGETOWN ITALIAN You won’twalk away disappointed—or hun-gry—from this Italian favorite inGeorgetown. Portions are largeenough for two, service is alwaysgreat, and admiring the tacky deco-rations will keep you entertainedlong after your food has arrived.1063 Wisconsin Ave. NW. y 202/338-8800. www.filomenadc.com.Entrees $22–$42. AE, DISC, MC, V.Lunch & dinner daily; brunch Sun.No Metro access. Map p 132.★ Floriana Restaurant DUPONTCIRCLE ITALIAN Tucked away in ahistoric Dupont town house, thisrestaurant makes you feel as ifEthiopian cuisine at Dukem Restaurant.
TIPIf a place beckons, call ahead forreservations, especially on a Satur-day night. You can often reserveyour table online at www.opentable.com. If you wait until the lastminute to make a reservation,expect to dine early or very late—say 5:30 to 6pm or after 9:30pm.139RestaurantsAtoZy 202/244-6600. www.indique.com.Lunch Fri–Sun; dinner daily. $14–$19. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Metro:Cleveland Park. Map p 132.★ Jaleo PENN QUARTER SPANISH Chef José Andrés started the “smallplates” revolution in Washingtonwith this sexy, casual tapas bar andrestaurant in the heart of PennQuarter. 480 7th St. NW (at E St.).y 202/628-7949. www.jaleo.com.Entrees $16–$18; tapas $3.25–$9.95.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinnerdaily; brunch Sat–Sun. Metro: Gal-lery Place/Chinatown. Map p 130.seem formal, but the food is fit for adown-home, Southern jubilee: golden-fried chicken; cornmeal-crusted cat-fish fingers; shrimp and grits; andsweet, crunchy, fried okra. 950 15thSt. NW (at K St.). y 202/393-4499.www.gbrowns.com. Entrees $17–$26.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri;dinner daily; brunch Sun. Metro: Far-ragut North. Map p 132.★ Graffiato GALLERY PLACEITALIAN Former Top Chef star MikeIsabella recently opened this Italian-inspired restaurant, which hasquickly become a go-to spot forauthentic hand-cut spaghetti, potatognocchi, and pizzas. 707 6th St. NW.y 202/289-3600. www.graffiatodc.com. Entrees $10–$20. AE, MC, V.Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: GalleryPlace/Chinatown. Map p 130.★★ Hank’s Oyster Bar DUPONTCIRCLE SEAFOOD Chef-ownerJamie Leeds mismatched the fur-nishings in this homey space so itwouldn’t be “too perfect” a settingfor beer, oysters, lobster rolls, andthe like. 1624 Q St. NW (at 17th St.).y 202/462-4265. www.hanksdc.com. Entrees $12–$19. AE, MC, V.Dinner daily; lunch Fri–Sun. Metro:Dupont Circle. Map p 132.★ Indique CLEVELAND PARKINDIAN Curry, naan, biriyani. Allof the flavors of India are here atthis chic two-floor restaurantknown for its consistently goodfood. 3512 Connecticut Ave. NW.Dinner at Graffiato.A seafood sandwich at Hank’s Oyster Bar.★ =Johnny’s Half Shell CAPI-TOL HILL SEAFOOD Maryland isfamous for its crab cakes, and thissmall, no-frills neighborhood restau-rant cooks them with loads of meatand very little filler. Casual and kid-friendly. 400 N. Capitol St. NW (atLouisiana Ave.). y 202/737-0400.www.johnnyshalfshell.net. Entrees$7.50–$24. AE, MC, V. BreakfastTues–Fri; lunch Mon–Fri; dinner Mon–Sat. Metro: Dupont Circle. Map p 130.
140TheBestDininglunch daily; dinner Mon–Sat. Metro:Dupont Circle. Map p 132.★★ =PAUL DOWNTOWNFRENCH A sliver of a cafe, withlovely, brisk sandwiches, quiches,and confections. Expat Parisianscamp out here. 801 PennsylvaniaAve. NW. y 202/524-4500. www.paul-usa.com. Entrees $10–$15. AE,DISC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch &dinner daily. Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown. Map p 131.★★ Perry’s ADAMS MORGANAMERICAN One of the busiest roof-top scenes in the city, Perry’s hasbeen long famous for its Sundaydrag brunch. Everyone from GW stu-dents to 40-somethings collide herefor a diverse menu of crusty crabcakes, sushi, pork schnitzel, musselsand more. 1811 Columbia Rd. NW.y 202/234-6218. www.perrysadamsmorgan.com. Brunch Sun; lunch Sat;★★★ Kellari DOWNTOWN. GREEK Prepare for an expensive dinnerhere, but it will be worth it, especiallyif you hand-pick your fresh fish,which has been flown in from Spainor Greece that day. Spanakopita andSaganaki, the traditional flaming Gra-viera cheese, are the real deal at thistaverna. 1700 K St. NW. y 202/535-5274. www.kellaridc.com. Entrees:$25 and up. AE, MC, V. Lunch & din-ner daily; brunch Sat–Sun. Metro:Farragut North. Map p 132.★★ Komi DUPONT CIRCLE AMERI-CAN Wow: Chef Johnny Monis’ssavory Mediterranean cooking,homemade breads, and light, livelydesserts. The tiny dining room iscasual, the service perfect. Worththe wait. 1509 17th St. NW (nearP St.). y 202/332-9200. www.komirestaurant.com. Tasting menu$135 per person; wine pairing $70.AE, MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sat. Metro:Dupont Circle. Map p 132.★ Lauriol Plaza DUPONT CIRCLEMEXICAN Is this multilevel placeever not packed to the roof, wheresingles flirt and drink? The Mexicanfare is worth its salt—as are thestrong margaritas. 1835 18th St. NW(at S St.). y 202/387-0035. www.lauriolplaza.com. Entrees $6.50–$16.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Brunch Sat–Sun;Dinner at Proof.Most D.C. restaurants require reservations, and in this cutthroattown, all the best seem always to be booked. What’s a hungry,reservation-less foodie to do? Head to the bar, of course. In an effortto please those who haven’t managed to reserve a table in theirmain dining rooms, but who nevertheless hope to sample some oftheir food, a number of the city’s top restaurants have started serv-ing modified versions of their regular menus at the bar. The experi-ence often proves more intimate and convivial than that in the maindining room, and here’s the kicker: It’s always less expensive.–Elise Hartman FordA Seat at the Bar
141RestaurantsAtoZ★★★ 1789 GEORGETOWN AMERI-CAN Go for the feel of old money,antiques, and old-fashioned ser-vice—plus romantic lighting and afireplace on cold nights. The quint-essential Georgetown experience,serving new American fare and fab-ulous wines. 1226 36th St. NW (atProspect St.). y 202/965-1789.www.1789restaurant.com. Entrees$18–$38. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinnerdaily. No Metro access. Bus: DC Cir-culator. Map p 132.★★★ The Source DOWNTOWNASIAN AMERICAN Wolfgang Puckmade his D.C. debut with this Asian-Fusion restaurant in the Newseum.575 Pennsylvania Ave. NW. y 202/637-6100. www.wolfgangpuck.com.Entrees $26–$45. Brunch Sat; lunchMon–Fri; dinner Mon–Sat. Metro:Archives/Penn Quarter. Map p 130.★ Tabaq Bistro U STREET MEDI-TERRANEAN The glass-ceilingedthird floor of this trendy restaurantoffers unparalleled views of D.C.’sWashington Monument, not to men-tion tasty Moroccan fare served onsmall plates. 1336 U St. NW. y 202/265-0965. www.tabaqdc.com.Entrees $14–$22. AE, DC, DISC, MC,V. Dinner daily. Metro: U Street/Car-dozo. Map p 132.★ Tackle Box GEORGETOWNAMERICAN New Englanders, thisdinner daily. $12–$20. AE, DISC, MC,V. Metro: Woodley Park–Zoo/AdamsMorgan. Map p 132.★★★ Proof PENN QUARTER AMERI-CAN Choose from some 1,000bottles of wine, or off a rolling cham-pagne cart, then dine on freshly pre-pared contemporary dishes thatmake a nod toward eco-friendly cui-sine. 775 G St. NW. y 202/737-7663.www.proofdc.com. Entrees $24–$29.AE, MC, V. Lunch Tues–Fri; dinnerdaily. Metro: Gallery Place/China-town. Map p 130.★★ Restaurant Nora DUPONTCIRCLE ORGANIC An early advo-cate of fresh, seasonal ingredients,chef-owner Nora Pouillon’s free-range chicken and tender roastedpork are a testament to how good asimple, organic meal can be. There’sa great wine list, too. 2132 FloridaAve. NW (at R St.). y 202/462-5143.www.noras.com. Entrees $24–$32.AE, MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat. Metro:Dupont Circle. Map p 132.★ Serendipity 3 GEORGETOWNDESSERTS Sure, it has regular food,too, but the chocolate brownie sun-daes and deep-fried Oreos take cen-ter stage at this straight-from-NewYork outpost. For $1,000, you canorder the Golden Opulence, theworld’s most expensive sundae.3150 M St. NW. y 202/333-5193.www.serendipity3dc.com. Entrees$15–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast,lunch & dinner Mon–Sat; brunchSun. No Metro access. Bus: DC Circu-lator. Map p 132.Dessert at 1789.Tabaq Bistro.
142TheBestDiningSE. y 202/544-8337. www.tedsbulletin.com. Entrees $15–$25. AE,MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily.Metro: Eastern Market. Map p 130.★★★ Zaytinya PENN QUARTERMIDDLE EASTERN Zaytinya is amust for fans of tapas-style dining—with its soaring ceilings, white-washed walls, communal tablesshared by beautiful people, andmodern Middle Eastern mezze. 7019th St. NW (at G St.). y 202/638-0800. www.zaytinya.com. Entrees$18–$23. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch& dinner daily. Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown. Map p 130.one’s for you. Evoking a classicbeach shack with communal tablesand chalkboard menus, Tackle Boxoffers the best seafood without thefuss. 3245 M St. NW. y 202/337-TBOX (337-8269). Entrees $9–$13.AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily.No Metro access (See “Traveling toGeorgetown,” on p 91). Map p 132.★ =Teaism DUPONT CIRCLEASIAN Eavesdrop on moody politi-cal debates inside as you sup onhealthy noodle dishes and bakedgoods. 2009 R St. NW (ConnecticutAve. and 21st St.). y 202/667-3827.www.teaism.com. Entrees $1.50–$10. AE, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch &dinner daily. Metro: Dupont Circle.Map p 132.★★ Ted’s Bulletin CAPITOL HILLAMERICAN Extra, extra! Read allabout it at this fun Barracks Row res-taurant that features newspapersfor menus and some of the city’sbest comfort food. Don’t leavewithout trying one of their famousmilkshakes or pop tarts. 505 8th St.One can say many things about Washington, but one thing isdefinitely true: When we find something we like, we stick to it. Thetrend in food trucks serving a variety of ethnic and healthy tastes isno exception. Keep an eye out for Fogol Brothers, which serves upcurry and butter chicken as well as vegetarian options like palakpaneer. You’ll find sweet andsavory pie slices at DCPieTruck,the roving counterpart of localpie shop Dangerously DeliciousPies on H Street. And as thename implies, the Red HookLobster Truck dishes out deli-cious Maine-style lobster rolls for$15. Track them all via Twitter orvisit www.foodtruckfiesta.comto find their current locations.Mobile EatsAs in many cities across the U.S., the foodtruck movement is all the rage in D.C.Tapas at Zaytinya, in Penn Quarter.
145TheBestNightlifeMMMMMMMMM M MMMMMM2911150501 395395WashingtonAve.Kenyon St.Irving St.Columbia Rd.Harvard St.Girard St.Fairmont St.Euclid St.French St.Barry Pl.Rhode Island Ave.N St.M St.Bryant St.Adams St.NewJerseyAve.Florida Ave.13thSt.12thSt.11thSt.10thSt.9thSt.8thSt.9thSt.8thSt.1stSt.7thSt.6thSt.5thSt.4thSt.2ndSt.NorthCapitolSt.12thSt.11thSt.10thSt.13thSt.Pennsylvania Ave.NewYork Ave.MassachusettsAve.K St.NewJerseyAve.2ndSt.3rdSt.4thSt.Constitution Ave.I St.H St.G St.F St.E St.D St.C St.PennsylvaniaAve.Madison Dr.Jefferson Dr.Independence Ave.LouisianaAve.DelawareAve.3rdSt.2ndSt.1stSt.NorthCapitolSt.SouthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.A St.A St.NorthCarolina Ave.NewYork Ave.Mt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterBRENTWOODPARKNATIONAL MALLWashingtonChannelMcMillanReservoirU.S. CapitolUnionStationHOWARDUNIVERSITYTRINITYCOLLEGEGALLAUDETUNIVERSITYLoganCircleMt. VernonSquareStantonSquareSewardSquareKenyon St.Irving St.Columbia Rd.Harvard St.Girard St.Fairmont St.Euclid St.French St.Barry Pl.Rhode Island Ave.N St.M St.Bryant St.Adams St.NewJerseyAve.Florida Ave.13thSt.12thSt.11thSt.10thSt.9thSt.8thSt.9thSt.8thSt.1stSt.7thSt.6thSt.5thSt.4thSt.2ndSt.NorthCapitolSt.12thSt.11thSt.10thSt.13thSt.Pennsylvania Ave.NewYork Ave.MassachusettsAve.K St.NewJerseyAve.2ndSt.3rdSt.4thSt.Constitution Ave.I St.H St.G St.F St.E St.D St.C St.PennsylvaniaAve.Madison Dr.Jefferson Dr.Independence Ave.LouisianaAve.DelawareAve.3rdSt.2ndSt.1stSt.NorthCapitolSt.SouthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.A St.A St.NorthCarolina Ave.NewYork Ave.MarylandAve.FederalCenter SWCapitolSouthEasternMarketL’EnfantPlazaArchives-NavyMemorialGallery Place-ChinatownJudiciarySquareUnionStationFederalTriangleSmithsonianMetroCenterShaw–HowardUniversityU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoNew York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UFederalCenter SWCapitolSouthEasternMarketL’EnfantPlazaArchives-NavyMemorialGallery Place-ChinatownJudiciarySquareUnionStationFederalTriangleSmithsonianMetroCenterShaw–HowardUniversityU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterNew York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UPENNQUARTERCAPITOLHILLDOWNTOWNCHINATOWN36371615 17313229303435183338Birch and Barleyand Churchkey 22Black Cat 20Blues Alley 7Bohemian Caverns 16Bourbon 1Busboys and Poets 14Café Japone 8Café Milano 6Café Saint-Ex 19Capital Grille Lounge 34Charlie Palmer Steak 35Eighteenth StreetLounge 23Fado Irish Pub 31Green Turtle 32Helix Lounge 21HR-57 38Ibiza Night Club 30International Bar 28Local 16 11Martin’s Tavern 4Marvin 13Metropolitan Club 25Muzette 99:30 Club 17Off the Record Bar 24Passenger 29Post Pub 27POV Bar 26Proof 331789 5Sonoma 36Stetson’s FamousBar & Grill 12Tabaq Bistro 15Town 18Town Hall 1Tryst 10Tune Inn 372 Amys 11/4 mi00 0.25 km
146TheBestNightlifeTipMetro trains run until 3am on week-ends, and special shuttle servicealso goes to Adams Morgan (hometo lots of clubs, but no Metro stops).Take the Metro to the Red Line’sWoodley Park–Zoo/Adams Morganstation or to the Green Line’s UStreet–Cardozo station, and hop onthe no. 98 Adams Morgan–U StreetLink Shuttle, which travels throughAdams Morgan, between these twostations, after 6pm daily except Sat-urday, when service starts at 10am.The U Link Shuttle operates every15 minutes and costs only 25¢.Best Literary/Artsy-FartsyHaunt★ Busboys and Poets, 2021 14thSt. NW (p 147)Best for Waiting Behind theVelvet Ropes★★ Ibiza Night Club, 1222 First St.NE (p 152)Best for Monumental Views★ POV Bar, W Hotel, 515 15th St.NW (p 150)Best Rooftop DrinkingLocal 16, 1602 U St. NW (p 150)Best Dive Bar★ Stetson’s Famous Bar & Grill,1610 U St. NW (p 147)Best for Grapeheads★★ Proof, 775 G St., NW (p 152)Best for Hopheads★★ Birch and Barley and Church-key, 1337 14th St. NW (p 147)Best for Watching Interns Flirtwith Elected Officials★ Charlie Palmer Steak, 101 Consti-tution Ave. NW (p 150)Best for Rubbing Shoulders withCapitol Hillers★ Tune Inn, 3311⁄2 PennsylvaniaAve. NE (p 151)Best for Wine & Romance★★★ 1789, 1226 36th St. NW(p 152)Best for Overhearing StateSecrets★★ Off the Record Bar, Hay-AdamsHotel, 800 16th St. NW (p 151)Best for Scotch & Cigar Lovers★ Capital Grille Lounge, 601 Penn-sylvania Ave. NW (p 150)Best for Live Jazz & Blues★ Blues Alley, 1073 Wisconsin Ave.NW (p 149)Best for Catching Indie Acts★ 9:30 Club, 815 V St. NW (p 149)Best Private Power Club★★ Metropolitan Club, 1700 H St.NW (p 150)Best for Spotting PostReporters★★ Post Pub, 1422 L St. NW (p 151)Best for Drinks While the KidsEat Pizza★★ 2 Amys, 3715 Macomb St. NW(p 147)Best for Mingling with Socialites★ Café Milano, 3252 Prospect St.NW (p 151)Nightlife Best Bets
147NightlifeAtoZwhile you savor a lovely glass of Ital-ian red wine. 3715 Macomb St. NW(at Wisconsin Ave.). y 202/885-5700. www.2amyspizza.com. Metro:Tenleytown/AU.Gay & Lesbian★ Town U STREET CORRIDOR Wild nights are the norm at this high-energy dance club that has an out-door smoking area, two levels, andvideo screens, and stays open until4am. 2009 8th St. NW. y 202/234-TOWN (8696). www.towndc.com.Cover $12–$20. Metro: U Street/Cardozo.Hipster Haunts★ Busboys and Poets 14THSTREET Local lit majors and brokefashionistas flock here for pizzas,burgers, and booze. Prices won’tbreak the bank. 2021 14th St. NW(at U St.). y 202/387-7638. www.busboysandpoets.com. AE, MC, V.Metro: Cardozo/U St.Café Saint-Ex 14TH STREET Named for the author of Le PetitPrince, this Eurochic bar and bistroserving New American fare attractsgoateed hipsters and their supercil-ious dates. A DJ spins in the down-stairs lounge. 1847 14th St. NW (at TSt.). y 202/265-7839. Metro:Cardozo/U St.★★ Helix Lounge LOGAN CIRCLE Funky, pop-centric decor plus color-ful cocktails and a nice outdoorspace make this retro-cool lounge inthe Hotel Helix a hangout amongWashington’s scene-makers. 1430Rhode Island Ave. NW (at 14th St.).y 202/462-9001. Metro: McPhersonSq. or Dupont Circle.Beer Lovers/Casual★★ Birch and Barley andChurchkey DUPONT CIRCLE Amultilevel bar and a selection ofmore than 50 drafts plus 500 bottlesmakes this restaurant a pilgrimagesite for brew lovers. 1337 14th St.NW. y 202/567-2576. www.birchandbarley.com. Metro: Dupont Circle.★ Fado Irish Pub PENN QUARTER This authentic Irish watering holehas a true taste of the Emerald Isle,from vintage tables and chairs tothe huge stones that make up thewalls and floors, plus pints of Guin-ness on tap. The din here is at 10decibels, the pub grub is savory,and the music is live. 808 7th St. NW(at H St.). y 202/789-0066. www.fadoirishpub.com. Metro: GalleryPlace/Chinatown.★ Stetson’s Famous Bar &Grill U STREET CORRIDOR Shootsome pool with your pals over draftale at this neighborhood pub with arespectable mix of classic rock onthe jukebox, charmingly dateddecor, and an outdoor patio formellow summer nights. 1610 U St.NW (at 16th St.). y 202/667-6295.www.stetsons-dc.com. Metro: U St.Corridor.★ Town Hall GLOVER PARK Anew location and a revamped inte-rior have revitalized this D.C. land-mark, whose casual food and drinkmenu is reliably good. 2340 Wiscon-sin Ave. NW. y 202/333-5640. www.townhalldc.com. No Metro Access.Family Spirits★★ 2 Amys GLOVER PARK Momand Dad, you need a drink, and therugrats are hungry. So take themout for authentic Neapolitan pizzaNightlife A to Z
148TheBestNightlifestudy hall, Tryst is all things for mostAdams Morganers. Early to openand late to close, this always- buzz-ing gathering spot is the place toogle original art, eat a sandwich orscore a scone, groove to live music,or journal furiously while downingan English ale. Coffeehouse: 245918th St. NW (at Columbia Rd.).y 202/232-5500. www.trystdc.com.Mon–Wed 6:30am–midnight; Fri–Sat6:30am–3am; Thurs 6:30am–2am;Sun 7am–midnight. Metro: WoodleyPark–Zoo/Adams Morgan.Karaoke★★ Café Japone DUPONT CIR-CLE If you like singing for yoursupper or just belting out a Broad-way tune, look no further than thislocal institution for sushi-lovingAmerican Idol rejects and pitch-perfect exhibitionists. 2032 P St.NW (at 21st St.). y 202/223-2573.www.japonedc.com. Metro: DupontCircle.★★ Muzette ADAMS MORGAN Those who only want to embarrassthemselves in front of friends andnot a bar full of strangers shouldrent a room at Muzette. You’ll find a★ Marvin 14TH STREET Whenyou arrive, head to the upstairsdeck where locals mingle, discusspolitics, and drink a selection ofcraft beers. 2007 14th St., NW (at USt.). y 202/797-7171. www.marvindc.com. AE, MC, V. Metro: Cardozo/U St.★ Passenger PENN QUARTER Service can be slow here, but that’sonly because bartenders put somuch concentration into makingtheir eclectic cocktails featuring freshherbs and different liquors, outlinedon a chalkboard above the bar eachnight. 1021 7th St. NW. y 202/393-0220. www.passengerdc.com. Metro:Gallery Place/Chinatown.★ Tabaq Bistro U STREET CORRI-DOR The decor is minimalist, withgeometric shapes, sharp edges, andred tones. The glass-paneled ter-race yields great views of the city.The people-watching is colorful.And, if that’s not enough, come forthe “hookah” menu. 1336 U St. NW(at 13th St.). y 202/265-0965. www.tabaqdc.com. Metro: Cardozo/U St.Tryst ADAMS MORGAN Part cof-feehouse, part playground, part gal-lery, part pick-up lounge, and partHelix Lounge.
149NightlifeAtoZ★★ Bohemian Caverns USTREET CORRIDOR Calling itselfthe “sole home of soul jazz,” thislegendary joint has attracted A-listartists (Duke Ellington and MilesDavis among them) for decades. Itskeyboard awning greets you, and itscreative cavelike interior is like noother. 2001 11th St. NW (at U St.).y 202/299-0801. www.bohemiancaverns.com. $10 cover Fri–Sat; nofood and drink minimum. Entrees$7.95–$19. Metro: Cardozo/U St.HR-57 LOGAN CIRCLE This tinyjazz house that doubles as a non-profit for music preservation is thereal deal. Grab a shabby chair in thebrick-walled club to listen to ama-teur and professional artists jaminto the night. You can BYOB for a$3 corking fee, or purchase wineand beer by the glass. 816 H St. NE.y 202/253-0044. www.hr57.org. NoMetro access.★ 9:30 Club U STREET CORRIDOR Fans of ’80s warblers Bob Mouldand ’Ments frontman Paul Wester-berg will love this intimate den forindependent music. It boasts thebest acoustic and low-fi sets on theEast Coast. 815 V St. NW (at Ver-mont Ave.). y 202/265-0930.www.930.com. Tickets $10–$50 inadvance. Metro: Cardozo/U St.great song selection and tastyKorean dishes to accompany yoursolo act. 2305 18th St. NW (btw. N.Kalorama and N. Belmont Rd.)y 202/758-2971. www.muzette.com. Metro: Adams Morgan.Live Music★★ Black Cat 14th STREET Faded punk rockers, still riding onthe Sex Pistols’ glory days, gatherhere to vet a new generation ofmohawked wonders, and to checkout other national and internationalalternative acts. 1811 14th St. NW(btw. S & T sts.). y 202/667-7960.www.blackcatdc.com. Cover $5–$20for concerts; no cover in Red RoomBar. Metro: Cardozo/U St.★ Blues Alley GEORGETOWN The New York Times once called thisplace “the nation’s finest jazz andsupper club.” Indeed, its reputationis deserved, if only for its Cajun-infused fare and performances bylegends like Eartha Kitt and MaryWilson. 1073 Wisconsin Ave. NW (atM St.). y 202/337-4141. www.bluesalley.com. Cover $16–$75, plus $10food and drink minimum, plus $2.25surcharge. Metro: Foggy Bottomthen Georgetown Metro ConnectionShuttle.Tryst, in Adams Morgan.
150TheBestNightlifewatering hole in town, this clubbylounge is witness to power-brokering, scandals, and plenty ofcigar-tinged intrigue—plus premiumwhiskeys and 300 wines on its regu-lar list. 601 Pennsylvania Ave. NW(at 6th St.). y 202/737-6200. www.thecapitalgrille.com. Metro:Archives/Navy Memorial.★ Charlie Palmer Steak DOWN-TOWN The city’s elegant outpostfor this nationally acclaimed chefattracts the town’s top politicaldogs for stiff drinks and perfectlyprepared sirloins. 101 ConstitutionAve. NW (at Louisiana Ave.).y 202/547-8100. www.charliepalmer.com. Metro: Union Station.★ Martin’s Tavern GEORGETOWN Chris Matthews, Tucker Carlson,and every president since HarryTruman have come to this “OldWashington” pub. Sidle up to themahogany bar for a Scotch or take aseat in one of its booths, like theone where JFK proposed to Jackie.1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW. y 202/333-7370. www.martins-tavern.com. NoMetro access (see box, p 91).★★ Metropolitan Club DOWN-TOWN In a circa-1908 buildinglisted on the National Register ofHistoric Places, this posh clubattracts D.C.’s movers and shakers.Outdoor/RooftopInternational Bar DOWN-TOWN Come for the classic cock-tails in this lobby bar of theWashington Plaza Hotel, and thenmove outdoors to the poolside ter-race and lounge, one of the onlyoutdoor pool scenes in the D.C.area. 10 Thomas Circle NW.y 202/842-1300. www.washingtonplazahotel.com. Metro: McPhersonSquare.Local 16 U STREET CORRIDOR You might feel you’re at a crowdedhouse party in this renovated townhouse turned bar that also happensto have one of the best rooftops forhappy-hour mingling, dining, anddrinking. 1602 U St. NW. y 202/265-2828. www.localsixteen.com. Metro:U Street/Cardozo.★ POV Bar DOWNTOWN Order amartini and take in the view of theWashington Monument and theNational Mall and glimpses of theWhite House from this swanky bar inthe W Hotel. 515 15th St. NW. y 202/661-2400. www.wwashingtondc.com/POVRoofTerrace. Metro: MetroCenter.Political Intrigue★ Capital Grille Lounge PENNQUARTER The premier politicalBlack Cat.
151NightlifeAtoZSports★★ Green Turtle PENN QUARTER Gilbert Arenas fans, this is your hotspot for catching NBA hoops on big-screen TVs, as well as all majorsporting events, from Wimbledonto the Super Bowl. 601 F St. NW.y 202/637-8889. www.thegreenturtle.com. Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.VIP Scene★ Café Milano GEORGETOWN Rub shoulders with Botoxed social-ites, back-slapping senators, andEuropean playboys at the lively bar,or sit down for a meal of middling-to-good Italian fare—if you can geta table. 3251 Prospect St. NW (atPotomac). y 202/333-6183. www.cafemilano.net. Metro: Foggy Bot-tom or Rosslyn.Eighteenth Street LoungeDUPONT CIRCLE Some would saythis multilevel meeting place hasseen its day. But it continues todraw crowds and beautiful peoplethrough its unmarked front door, tomingle on salon-style sofas andgroove to live music. 1212 18th St.NW (at Connecticut Ave.).y 202/696-0210. Cover: $5–$20Tues–Sun. Metro: Farragut North.1700 H St. NW (at 17th St.). y 202/835-2500. www.metroclub.org. Metro:Farragut North or Farragut West.★★ Off the Record Bar DOWN-TOWN Billed as “Washington’splace to be seen and not heard,” Offthe Record was selected by Forbesas one of the “World’s Best HotelBars” in July 2004. It’s just stepsfrom the White House; I wish its red-paneled walls could talk. In the Hay-Adams Hotel: 800 16th St. NW (at HSt.). y 202/638-6600. www.hayadams.com. Metro: McPherson Sq.★★ Post Pub DOWNTOWN Ifyou want to run into today’s ver-sions of Bob Woodward and CarlBernstein, look no further than thistiny relic of a bar. It serves draftbeer and belly-filling grub to Poststaffers, who work just around thecorner. 1422 L St. NW (at VermontAve.). y 202/628-2111. www.postpubdc.com. Metro: McPherson Sq.★ Tune Inn CAPITOL HILL A greathappy hour and an eclectic dive barvibe attract the just-out-of-college-and-working-on-the-Hill set, whodown boozy beverages as they disstheir famous bosses. 3311⁄2 Pennsyl-vania Ave. NE. y 202/543-2725.www.tuneinndc.com. Metro: UnionStation.The rooftop scene at Local 16.
152TheBestNightlifeWine Lovers★★ Proof PENN QUARTER Morethan 1,000 different bottles, somefrom the owner’s private collection,and an Enomatic wine system thatdispenses perfect pours by theglass make this trendy spot a must-visit for oenophiles. 775 G St. NW.y 202/737-7663. www.proofdc.com. Metro: Gallery Place/China-town.★★★ 1789 GEORGETOWN A newchef isn’t the only attraction at thisWashington mainstay. This low-lit,classic New American restauranthas a very romantic bar and one ofthe city’s most impressive wine lists.1226 36th St. NW (at Prospect St.).y 202/965-1789. www.1789restaurant.com. No Metro access(see box, p 91).★★ Sonoma CAPITOL HILL Thehot spot on the Hill, serving Mediter-ranean small plates with more than35 well-chosen wines by the bottle.Be prepared to get friendly withstrangers; the place is alwayspacked and tables are thisclose. 223Pennsylvania Ave. SE (at 2nd St.).y 202/544-8088. www.sonomadc.com. Metro: Capitol South.★★ Ibiza Night Club DOWN-TOWN This hopping nightclub ispacked with young people downingshots, getting their groove on, andtaking twirls around dance floor.1222 First St. NE. y 888/424-9232.www.ibizadc.com. Thurs–Sat. Metro:New York Avenue.Whiskey Lovers★★ Bourbon GLOVER PARK Named for the 50 Kentucky bour-bons (and assorted Tennessee vari-eties) poured here, this casual,modern pub attracts sports fans,slumming hipsters, grad students—even neighborhood families, whodine upstairs on tasty burgers andcrab cakes. 2348 Wisconsin Ave. NW(near Calvert St.). y 202/625-7770.www.bourbondc.com. No Metroaccess.The vast selection at Bourbon.If you’re willing to make a day and night of it, hop a cab toNational Harbor, another entertainment outpost, just a few milesfrom downtown D.C. Here, you’ll find shops, nearly 20 restaurants,and a dueling piano bar along the newly constructed streets. Theimmense Gaylord National Hotel is the centerpiece, and features aseafood eatery, an acclaimed steak restaurant, more stores, and aBellagio-type fountain that shoots 60 feet (18m) in the air. Cally 877/628-5427 or visit www.nationalharbor.com for details.National Harbor
9 The Best Arts &Entertainment
154TheBestArts&Entertainment295011666639550ALT29MMMMMTidal BasinReflecting PoolRock CreekPotomacRiverConstitutionGardens LakeFoggy Bottom–GWUFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleMcPhersonSquareWashingtonBlvd.K St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NWM St. NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWPennsylvania Ave. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NWI St. NWI St. NWQ St. NWO St. NWN St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW22ndSt.NW23rdSt.NW21stSt.NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwyNW.S St. NWR St. NWU St. NWV St. NWRhode IslandL St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW14thSt.SWVermontNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWH St. NWVirginiaAve. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NWE St. Expwy.17thSt.NW15thSt.NWFlorida Ave.NW28thSt.NW29thSt.NWCalifornia St. NWG St. NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWColumbiaRd.NWMassachusettsAve. NWOhioDr.SWIndependence Ave. SWS St. NWConnecticutAve.NWKalorama Rd. NWFloridaAve.NWIndependence Ave. SWIndependence Ave. SWMaineAve.SWMassachusettsAve.NWScott CircleThomasCircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFreedomTheodoreRooseveltMemorialBridgeArlington MemorialBridgeROCK CREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYConstitution GardensWESTPOTOMACPARKTheEllipseLafayetteSquareLADY BIRDJOHNSONPARKCherry TreesCherryTreesKennedyCenterWatergateLincolnMemorialWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialKorean War VeteransMemorialFDRMemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYGeorge MasonMemorialDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOMGEORGETOWNEMBASSYROWV I R G I N I ATidal BasinReflecting PoolRock CreekPotomacRiverConstitutionGardens LakeFoggy Bottom–GWUFarragutWestFarragutNorthDupontCircleMcPhersonSquareWashingtonBlvd.K St. NWN St. NW N St. NWM St. NWM St. NWPennsylvaniaAve.NWPennsylvania Ave. NW18thSt.NW18thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NW19thSt.NWI St. NWI St. NWQ St. NWO St. NWN St. NWConnecticutAve.NW15thSt.NW16thSt.NW16thSt.NW17thSt.NW20thSt.NW22ndSt.NW23rdSt.NW21stSt.NWRockCreekandPotomacPkwyNW.S St. NWR St. NWU St. NWV St. NWRhode IslandL St. NW14thSt.NW14thSt.NW14thSt.SWVermontNewHampshireAve.NWT St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWP St. NWG St. NWH St. NWH St. NWVirginiaAve. NWC St. NWConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWE St. NWE St. Expwy.17thSt.NW15thSt.NWFlorida Ave.NW28thSt.NW29thSt.NWCalifornia St. NWG St. NWRockCk.Pkwy.NWColumbiaRd.NWMassachusettsAve. NWOhioDr.SWIndependence Ave. SWS St. NWConnecticutAve.NWKalorama Rd. NWFloridaAve.NWIndependence Ave. SWIndependence Ave. SWMaineAve.SWMassachusettsAve.NWScott CircleThomasCircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleWashingtonCircleSheridanCircleFreedomTheodoreRooseveltMemorialBridgeArlington MemorialBridgeROCK CREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARKOAK HILLCEMETERYConstitution GardensWESTPOTOMACPARKTheEllipseLafayetteSquareLADY BIRDJOHNSONPARKCherry TreesCherryTreesKennedyCenterWatergateLincolnMemorialWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseJeffersonMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialKorean War VeteransMemorialFDRMemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYGeorge MasonMemorialDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOMGEORGETOWNEMBASSYROWV I R G I N I A123567D.C. Arts & EntertainmentPrevious page: The Grand Foyer at D.C.’s Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts.
155TheBestArts&Entertainment39539539569529292911501MMMMMMMMMMMM MMWashingtonChannelCapitolReflectingPoolU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterUnionStationJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWCapitol SouthMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianShaw–Howard U.New York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UNorthCapitolSt.NorthCapitolSt.SouthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.K St. NWRhode Island Ave. NWAve. NWM St. NWL St. NWL St. NW L St. NEV St. NWU St. NWU St. NWT St. NWT St. NWS St. NWS St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWO St. NWO St. NWN St. NWFloridaAve. NWAve.NW9thSt.NW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW7thSt.NW6thSt.NW5thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW3rdSt.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW11thSt.NW10thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWP St. NWConstitution Ave. NWNew YorkAve.NWK St. NW K St. NEConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW1stSt.NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NW2ndSt.NW2ndSt.SW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SW1stSt.NW2ndSt.NW4thSt.NWNewJerseyAve.NWG St. NWLincolnRd.NEMassachusettsAve.NW2ndSt.NEH St. NEH St. NWH St. NWD St. NEC St. NEDelawareAve.NEMarylandAve. NEC St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NENewJerseyAve.SEJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWC St. SWD St. SWD St. SWWashingtonAve. SWGeorgiaAve.NWMaineAve.SWPennsylvaniaAve.NWSoutheast FreewayMt. VernonSquareColumbusCircleLoganCirclePlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenFranklinSquareGarfield ParkUnionStationPlazaJohn MarshallParkCapitolVerizonCenter UnionStationHOWARDUNIVERSITYWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterPENN QUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLENOMACHINATOWNCORRIDORU STREETWashingtonChannelCapitolReflectingPoolU Street/African-AmerCivil War Memorial/CardozoMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterUnionStationJudiciary SqGallery Pl–ChinatownArchives–Navy Mem’l–Penn QuarterL’EnfantPlazaFederalCenter SWCapitol SouthMetroCenterFederalTriangleSmithsonianShaw–Howard U.New York Ave–Florida Ave–Gallaudet UNorthCapitolSt.NorthCapitolSt.SouthCapitolSt.East Capitol St.K St. NWRhode Island Ave. NWAve. NWM St. NWL St. NWL St. NW L St. NEV St. NWU St. NWU St. NWT St. NWT St. NWS St. NWS St. NWR St. NWQ St. NWP St. NWO St. NWO St. NWN St. NWFloridaAve. NWAve.NW9thSt.NW9thSt.NW7thSt.NW7thSt.NW6thSt.NW5thSt.NW5thSt.NW6thSt.NW3rdSt.NW12thSt.NW12thSt.NW11thSt.NW11thSt.NW10thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW13thSt.NW12thSt.SWP St. NWConstitution Ave. NWNew YorkAve.NWK St. NW K St. NEConstitution Ave. NWF St. NWE St. NWD St. NWC St. NWMadison Dr. NW1stSt.NW3rdSt.NW4thSt.NW2ndSt.NW2ndSt.SW4thSt.SW6thSt.SW6thSt.SW10thSt.SW1stSt.NW2ndSt.NW4thSt.NWNewJerseyAve.NWG St. NWLincolnRd.NEMassachusettsAve.NW2ndSt.NEH St. NEH St. NWH St. NWD St. NEC St. NEDelawareAve.NEMarylandAve. NEC St. SEE St. SE2ndSt.SE1stSt.SE1stSt.NENewJerseyAve.SEJefferson Dr. SWIndependence Ave. SWE St. SWG St. SWC St. SWD St. SWD St. SWWashingtonAve. SWGeorgiaAve.NWMaineAve.SWPennsylvaniaAve.NWSoutheast FreewayMt. VernonSquareColumbusCircleLoganCirclePlazaN A T I O N A L M A L LSculptureGardenFranklinSquareGarfield ParkUnionStationPlazaJohn MarshallParkCapitolVerizonCenter UnionStationHOWARDUNIVERSITYWalter E.WashingtonConventionCenterPENN QUARTERFEDERAL TRIANGLENOMACHINATOWNCORRIDORU STREET84131412111099Arena Stage 14DAR Constitution Hall 3DC Improv 5Folger Theatre 13Ford’s Theatre 10Kennedy Center forthe Performing Arts 2Lincoln Theatre 8National Theatre 4Shakespeare TheatreCompany 11Studio Theatre 6Theater J 7Warner Theatre 9Wolf Trap Foundation forthe Performing Arts 1Woolly MammothTheatre Company 121/4 mi00 0.25 km
156TheBestArts&EntertainmentBest of the Bard★★ Shakespeare Theatre Com-pany, 610 F St. NW (p 158)Best for Touring BroadwayShows★★ National Theatre, 1321 Penn-sylvania Ave. NW (p 157)Best for Edgy Playwrights★★ Studio Theatre, 1501 14th St.NW, #3 (p 158)Best Outdoor Theater★ Wolf Trap Foundation for thePerforming Arts, 1645 Trap Rd.,Vienna, Virginia (p 158)Best Restored Theater★ Lincoln Theatre, 1215 U St. NW(p 157)Best for History Buffs★★ Ford’s Theatre, 511 10th St.NW (p 157)Best for High-BrowPerformance★★★ Kennedy Center for the Per-forming Arts, 2700 F St. NW (p 157)Best for Avant-Garde Acts★★ Woolly Mammoth TheatreCompany, 641 D St. NW (p 158)Best Place to Laugh So HardYou Cry★★ DC Improv, 1140 ConnecticutAve. NW (p 157)Arts & Entertainment Best BetsStudio Theatre, in 14th Street/Logan Circle.The Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company.
157Arts&EntertainmentAtoZ★★★ Kennedy Center for thePerforming Arts FOGGY BOT-TOM Named for the late president,this Washington landmark is both aliving memorial and a first-classvenue for symphonies, operas, bal-lets, and touring theatrical anddance productions—not to mentiontheir annual awards. 2700 F St. NW(btw. New Hampshire Ave. and RockCreek Pkwy.). Box office. y 202/467-4600. www.kennedy-center.org. Tick-ets $14–$290. Metro: Foggy Bottom.★ Lincoln Theatre U STREET COR-RIDOR Restored to its originalsplendor, this historic venue has wel-comed a host of African-Americanmusicians, from Duke Ellington andBillie Holliday to modern entertainerssuch as Dick Gregory. 1215 U St. NW(btw. 12th and 13th sts.). y 202/397-SEAT. Tours: 202/328-6000, ext. 220.www.thelincolntheatre.org. Tickets$20–$200. Metro: Cardozo/U St.★★ National Theatre DOWN-TOWN Everyone from Dame Ednato Earth, Wind & Fire plays this★★ Arena Stage SW WATER-FRONT Artistic Director MollySmith is known for staging first-rateclassical and contemporary produc-tions, attracting leading first menand women from New York and Hol-lywood. 1101 6th St. SW (at MaineAve.). y 202/488-3300. www.arenastage.org. Tickets $25–$75. Metro:Waterfront–SEU.★★★ DAR Constitution HallDOWNTOWN Everyone fromAretha Franklin to the SmashingPumpkins has played this popularvenue for household-name musi-cians, comedians, and lecturers.1776 D St. NW. y 202/628-4780.www.dar.org. Ticket prices vary.Metro: Farragut West/Farragut North.★★ DC Improv DOWNTOWN Before they were big, Ellen DeGe-neres and Dave Chappelle performedat this underground comedy clubthat still draws top-notch artistsweekly from across the country. 1140Connecticut Ave. NW. y 202/296-7008. www.dcimprov.com. Ticketsare $15–$25. Metro: Farragut North.★★ Folger Theatre CAPITOLHILL Buy tickets here for Shake-spearean plays, concerts, and liter-ary readings, as well as fun familyactivities with a historical twist. 201E. Capitol St. SE (btw. 2nd and 3rdsts.). y 202/544-7077. www.folger.edu. Tickets $25–$49. Metro: CapitolSouth.★★ Ford’s Theatre DOWN-TOWN This theater, where Presi-dent Lincoln was shot in 1865 whilewatching the comedy Our AmericanCousin, is still staging compellingproductions today. 511 10th St. NW(btw. E and F sts.). y 202/347-4833.www.fordstheatre.org. Tickets $25–$55. Metro: Metro Center.Arts & Entertainment A to ZA performance of Henry V at the Shake-speare Theatre Company.
158TheBestArts&Entertainmentwww.washingtondcjcc.org. Tickets$15–$45. Metro: Dupont Circle.★★ Warner Theatre CAPITOLHILL This big theater stages arange of performances, from inter-national recording artists (Bob Weir,Hall & Oates) to touring plays (Gol-da’s Balcony, Cheaters) to comedicone-man shows (Jim Gaffigan, LewisBlack). 513 13th St. NW (btw. E and Fsts.). y 202/783-4000. www.warnertheatredc.com. Ticket prices vary.Metro: Metro Center.★ Wolf Trap Foundation forthe Performing Arts NORTHERNVIRGINIA Year-round, enjoy tour-ing pop, country, folk, and blues art-ists, plus dance, theater, opera, andorchestra performances—with out-door plays and concerts in summer.1645 Trap Rd. (off Rte. 7), Vienna,Virginia. y 877/WOLF-TRAP (965-3872). www.wolftrap.org. Tickets$10–$70. No Metro access.★★ Woolly Mammoth TheatreCompany PENN QUARTER Thisprovocative, experimental companyaims to break new ground, show-casing new works by emerging art-ists. 641 D St. NW (at 7th St.). y 202/289-2443. www.woollymammoth.net. Tickets $22–$52. Metro: GalleryPlace/Chinatown.historic “theater of Presidents,”open since 1835. 1321 PennsylvaniaAve. NW (btw. 13th and 14th sts.).y 202/628-6161. www.nationaltheatre.org. Tickets $37–$86. Metro:Federal Triangle or Metro Center.★★ Shakespeare TheatreCompany PENN QUARTER Catchthe Bard’s best, from A MidsummerNight’s Dream to Othello, in produc-tions with astounding sets andnationally known actors. 610 F St.NW (btw. D and E sts.). y 202/547-1122. www.shakespearetheatre.org.Tickets $23–$68. Metro: GalleryPlace/Chinatown or Archives/NavyMemorial/Penn Quarter.★★ Studio Theatre 14TH STREET This theater has earned a stellarreputation for edgy, contemporaryproductions by playwrights such asNeil LaBute. Its newly renovatedspace is the crown jewel of therecently revived 14th Street/LoganCircle area. 1501 14th St. NW (at PSt.). y 202/332-3300. www.studiotheatre.org. Tickets $32–$62. Metro:Cardozo/U St., Dupont Circle, orMcPherson Sq.★ Theater J DOWNTOWN Thiscompany is nationally and interna-tionally renowned for its progres-sive Jewish theater programs.1529 16th St. NW. y 202/518-9400.A performance at Arena Stage.
10The Best Hotels
160TheBestHotels1TidalBasinPotomacRiverCherryTreesGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYGEORGEWASHINGTONUNIVERSITYKorean WarVeterans MemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialKorean WarVeterans MemorialMartin Luther King, Jr.MemorialDupontCircleFoggy Bottom-GWUFarragutNorthFarragutWestMcPhersonSquareDupontCircleFoggy Bottom-GWUFarragutNorthFarragutWestMcPhersonSquareWESTPOTOMACPARKJeffersonMemorialFDRMemorialVietnam VeteransMemorialLincolnMemorialWorld War IIMemorialWashingtonMonumentWhiteHouseWhiteHousePennsylvania Ave.I St.I St.H St.ConnecticutAve.22ndSt.23rdSt.NewHampshireAve.Church St.Church St.G St.C St.Constitution Ave.F St.E St.17thSt.15thSt.ArlingtonMem. BridgeScott CircleThomasCircleWashingtonCircleWashingtonCircleM St.N St.P St.DupontCIrcleSheridanCIrcleMMTo Georgetown(see inset, top right)VirginiaAve.23rdSt.Scott CircleFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareFranklinSquareFarragutSquareMcPhersonSquareFranklinSquareL St.K St.18thSt.19thSt.25thSt.15thSt.16thSt.17thSt.20thSt.24thSt.21stSt.R St. R St.Q St.P St.14thSt.M St.Q St.L St.K St.18thSt.19thSt.25thSt.15thSt.16thSt.17thSt.20thSt.24thSt.21stSt.R St. R St.Q St.P St.14thSt.M St.Q St.ROCKCREEKPARKTHEELLIPSE501MMMMMDUPONTCIRCLEFOGGYBOTTOM154321918171516613149121181071/4 mi00 0.25 kmD.C. HotelsPrevious page: Hotel Helix, in Logan Circle.
161TheBestHotelsMMMMMMM MMWashingtonChannelSmithsonianArchives-Navy MemlFederalTriangleGallery Pl.-ChinatownJudiciarySquareMetroCenterUnionStationMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention CenterSmithsonianArchives-Navy MemlFederalTriangleGallery Pl.-ChinatownJudiciarySquareMetroCenterUnionStationMt Vernon Sq/7th St–Convention Center150395U.S. CapitolSmithsonianCastleRhode Island Ave.N St.M St.L St.NewJerseyAve.Florida Ave.9thSt.8thSt.7thSt.7thSt.6thSt.5thSt.4thSt.3rdSt.1stSt.12thSt.11thSt.10thSt.13thSt.Pennsylvania Ave.New York Ave.MassachusettsAve.K St.NewJerseyAve.Constitution Ave.I St.H St.F St.E St.D St.C St.Madison Dr.Jefferson Dr.Independence Ave.LouisianaAve.DelawareAve.3rdSt.2ndSt.1stSt.N.CapitolSt.Canal St.E St.G St.IndianaAve.LoganCircleMt. VernonSquareFederalCenter SWBlue &Orange LinesMMMMM31stSt.28thSt.27thSt.26thSt.28thSt.32ndSt.30thS.t29thSt.27thSt.26thSt.Q St.Q St.Volta Pl.P St.P St.O St.O St.Dumbarton Ave.Olive St.N St.ThomasJeffersonSt.GEORGETOWNUNIVERSITY31stSt.PotomacRiverC & O CanalC & O CanalWisconsinAve.33rdSt.36thSt.34thSt.35thStN St.PotomacSt.Prospect St.Canal Rd.Whitehurst Fwy.27thSt26thSt.PennsylvaniaAveK St.2929FrancisScottKeyBridgeROCKCREEKPARKROCKCREEKPARK001/10 mi0.10 kmMUnionStationGeorgetownN A T I O N A L M A L L29501395MMMMMMMMCAPITOLHILL21222320262524The Dupont at the Circle 1The Fairmont Washington 4Four Points Sheraton 20Four SeasonsGeorgetown 25Georgetown Inn 24Hay-Adams 16Hotel George 23Hotel Helix 12Hotel Lombardy 6Hotel Madera 3Hotel Monaco 21Hotel Palomar 2Hotel Rouge 11Hotel Tabard Inn 7The Jefferson Hotel 10The Liaison 22The Madison Hotel 14Mandarin Oriental 19The Mayflower Hotel 9Ritz-CarltonGeorgetown 26The River Inn 5St. Regis Hotel 16Topaz Hotel 14W Hotel 17Washington PlazaHotel 13Willard InterContinentalHotel 18
162TheBestHotelsBest for Warehouse Luxe★★★ Ritz-Carlton Georgetown$$$$ 3100 South St. NW (p 166)Where to Meet an NBA Player★★ Hotel Monaco $$ 700 F St. NW(p 164)Best for the Entitled★★ The Madison Hotel $$$ 117715th St. NW (p 165)Best for Dog Lovers★★ Hotel Madera $$ 1310 NewHampshire Ave. NW (p 164)Best for History Buffs★★★ Hay-Adams, 1 Lafayette Sq.(p 163)Best for Astrology Fanatics★★ Topaz Hotel $$$ 1733 N St. NW(p 166)Best for Fans of All Things Red★★ Hotel Rouge $$ 1315 16th St.NW (p 164)Best for Pop Culture Purists(Who Don’t Have Lots of Cash)★★ Hotel Helix $$ 1430 RhodeIsland Ave. NW (p 163)Where Activist HollywoodA-Listers Hold Court★★ Mandarin Oriental $$$ 1330Maryland Ave. SW (p 165)Where Hollywood A-ListersGet Some Sleep★★ Gold Floor at the FairmontWashington $$$ 2401 M St. NW(p 163)Where Washington’s YoungBucks Mingle★★ Hotel George $$ 15 E St. NW(p 163)Most Romantic Bathtub withthe Best View★★ Willard InterContinental $$$1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (p 166)For Some Shabby with Your Chic★★ Hotel Tabard Inn $$ 1739 N St.NW (p 165)Where to Make a Great Splash★★ Washington Plaza Hotel (andits rooftop pool) $$ 10 Thomas Cir-cle NW (p 166)Best for Fashionistas★★★ Four Seasons Georgetown$$$$ 2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW(p 163)Hotel Best BetsA room with a view at the Hay-Adams.
163HotelsAtoZ$299. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Metro:Foggy Bottom.★★ = Georgetown InnGEORGETOWN If you want to be inthe heart of Georgetown, this decent(if unspectacular) hotel is the place tostay. Its clubby, dark-wooded interiorrecently underwent renovations, andthe Daily Grill downstairs is family-friendly. 1310 Wisconsin Ave. NW(at N St. NW). y 888/587-2388 or202/333-8900. www.georgetowninn.com. 96 units. Doubles $195–$245.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. No Metroaccess. Bus: 30, 32, or 34.★★★ Hay-Adams DOWNTOWN Steps from the White House, thisluxury boutique hotel has greatviews of Lafayette Park and marriesEuropean elegance with a buzzingD.C. insiders’ spot, Off the RecordBar. 1 Lafayette Sq. (at 16th and Hsts.). y 202/638-6600. www.hayadams.com. 145 units. Doubles from$199. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Metro:Farragut West or McPherson Sq.★★ Hotel George CAPITOLHILL This modern hotel is minimal-ist and chic. Hill staffers flock to thehotel bar, at Bistro Bis, and the firstpresident himself welcomes travel-ers to the capital, in the silk-screendollar-bill prints that hang in everyguest room. 15 E St. NW (at N. Capi-tol NW). y 800/546-7866 or 202/347-4200. www.hotelgeorge.com.139 units. Doubles from $159. AE, DC,DISC, MC, V. Metro: Union Station.★★ Hotel Helix LOGAN CIRCLE Fans of Andy Warhol, Marilyn Mon-roe, even PEZ, will adore this bou-tique hotel with a mission tocelebrate all things pop. Interiorsare retro, and the funky loungedraws local scene-makers. 1430Rhode Island Ave. NW (btw. 14th★★★ The Dupont at the CircleDUPONT CIRCLE This charming,centrally located inn has six guestrooms, two suites, and oneapartment—all with antiques,immaculate bedding, private bath-rooms, and Wi-Fi access. 1604 19thSt. NW (at Q St. NW). y 202/332-5251. www.dupontatthecircle.com.9 units. Doubles from $250. AE,DISC, MC, V. Metro: Dupont Circle.★★ The Fairmont WashingtonWEST END Lush atrium gardensset the tone for this elegant, clubbyluxury hotel. Its Gold Floor caters toA-listers with free car service, choc-olates, and even a pillow menu.2401 M St. NW (at 24th St. NW).y 866/540-4505 or 202/429-2400.www.fairmont.com/washington. 415units. Doubles from $279. AE, DISC,MC, V. Metro: Foggy Bottom.★★ = Four Points SheratonPENN QUARTER In town for a con-ference at the Convention Center?This clean, safe, and contemporaryhotel is ideally located. While itssuites are designed for work—withbig desks and Internet access—guests can still play in the rooftoppool. 1201 K St. NW (at 12th St. NW).y 202/289-7600. www.starwoodhotels.com/fourpoints. 265 units.Doubles from $153. AE, DISC, MC, V.Metro: McPherson Square.★★★ Four Seasons George-town GEORGETOWN Travel edi-tors, fashionistas, and movie stars intown to film political thrillers bookhere for the unparalleled quality andservice. The lower-level spa is thecapital’s best, and M Street shop-ping is steps away. 2800 Pennsylva-nia Ave. NW (at M St. NW). y 202/342-0444. www.fourseasons.com/washington. 211 units. Doubles fromHotels A to Z
164TheBestHotelscool juxtaposes historic marble andsky-high ceilings with sleek, inviting,vibrantly colored guest rooms.Poste, the swank bar downstairs,attracts visiting NBA stars from theVerizon Center down the block. 700F St. NW (at 7th St. NW). y 800/649-1202 or 202/628-7177. www.monaco-dc.com. 183 units. Doublesfrom $179. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown.★★ Hotel Palomar DUPONT CIR-CLE Art takes center stage at thisluxury boutique hotel that offerscomfortably appointed rooms withcrisp Frette linens and faux lynxthrows, plus a stylish restaurant. Petfriendly, too. 2121 P St. NW.y 877/866-3070 or 202/448-1800.www.hotelpalomar-dc.com. 335units. Doubles from $149–$359.Metro: Dupont Circle.★★ Hotel Rouge DUPONT CIR-CLE Young renegades into high-tech hotels will love the red-hotaccommodations at this racy bou-tique inn. Specialty rooms featureflatpanel computer monitors, SonyWega flatscreen TVs, PlayStation 2,and a video game library. 1315 16thSt. NW (btw. Massachusetts Ave.and Scott Circle). y 800/738-1202and 15th sts. NW). y 800/706-1202or 202/462-9001. www.hotelhelix.com. 178 units. Doubles from $149.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Metro: DupontCircle.★ Hotel Lombardy FOGGY BOT-TOM An easy walk from the Mall,this old-time hotel is replete withfriendly bellhops, an elevator opera-tor, complimentary shoe shines,and suites that remind you of yourgrandmother’s fanciest guestroom—if she were Italian, of course.2019 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (at I St.NW). y 202/828-2600. www.hotellombardy.com. 140 units. Doublesfrom $109. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.Metro: Foggy Bottom.★★ Hotel Madera DUPONT CIR-CLE A boutique hotel for the busi-ness traveler: warm-toned yethigh-tech guest rooms, with nicetouches such as animal-print pillows,a complimentary wine hour, and theoption to stow away personal items(such as running shoes) for returnguests. Pet friendly, too. 1310 NewHampshire Ave. NW (btw. N and Osts. NW). y 800/430-1202 or202/296-7600. www.hotelmadera.com. 82 units. Doubles from $179. AE,DC, DISC, MC, V. Metro: Dupont Circle.★★ Hotel Monaco PENN QUAR-TER Housed in a landmark formerpost office, this temple to modernA room at the Hotel Helix.The lobby at the Hotel Monaco.
165HotelsAtoZ415 New Jersey Ave. NW. y 202/638-1616. www.affinia.com. 343units. Doubles from $179–$350.Metro: Union Station.★★ The Madison Hotel DOWN-TOWN Famed for fawning over for-eign dignitaries, the Madison isexactly how you’d imagine a smallWashington hotel to be: traditional,quiet, well kept, and, yes, dignified.Spice things up by dining or drinkingat trendy Palette Restaurant down-stairs. 1177 15th St. NW (at M St.NW). y 800/424-8577 or 202/862-1600. www.madisonhoteldc.com. 353units. Doubles from $229. AE, DC,DISC, MC, V. Metro: Farragut North.★★ Mandarin Oriental SOUTH-WEST A feng shui expert designedthe rooms here—some with spec-tacular views of the SouthwestMarina and the Jefferson Memorial.Eastern luxury meets Western lux-ury in the beautifully balanced silkwall coverings, bamboo embellish-ments, and marble bathrooms. 1330Maryland Ave. SW (at 12th St. SW).y 888/888-1778 or 202/554-8588.www.mandarinoriental.com. 400units. Doubles from $255. AE, DC,DISC, MC, V. Metro: Smithsonian.★★ The Mayflower HotelDOWNTOWN The quintessentialgrande dame of Washington, thisor 202/232-8000. www.rougehotel.com. 137 units. Doubles from $179.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Metro: DupontCircle.★★ Hotel Tabard Inn DUPONTCIRCLE Every room in this eclecticinn is a romantic mix of original artand fine early-20th-centuryantiques. The excellent restauranthas a lovely summer garden, cozydivans, and a fireplace for coldnights. 1739 N St. NW (btw. 17th and18th sts.). y 202/785-1277. www.tabardinn.com. 40 units. Doubleswith bathroom from $140. AE, DC,DISC, MC, V. Metro: Dupont Circle orFarragut North.★★★ The Jefferson HotelDOWNTOWN Built in 1923, thisstately hotel is just 4 blocks fromthe White House. Dine out at itsaward-winning restaurant, Plume,then retire for a nightcap in thelibrary or to its cozy lounge, Quill.1200 16th St. NW. y 202/448-2300.www.jeffersondc.com. 99 units. Dou-bles from $550. Metro: FarragutNorth or Farragut West.★★ The Liaison CAPITOL HILL Picky about your pillow? Choosefrom six different styles in thismodernly appointed hotel, whereHill staffers flock to its upscale-Southern Art and Soul restaurant.The Hotel Rouge lobby.
166TheBestHotelshoroscopes, exotic interior textures,and healing in-room spa services.1733 N St. NW (btw. 17th and 18thsts.). y 202/393-3000. www.topazhotel.com. 99 units. Doublesfrom $199. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.Metro: Dupont Circle or FarragutNorth.★ W Hotel DOWNTOWN Justblocks from the White House andNational Mall, this swank hoteloffers all of the modern and efficientservices you’ll need with a primelocation in the center of D.C. Its POVRooftop Bar offers spectacularviews of the city below. 515 15thSt. NW. y 202/661-2400. www.wwashingtondc.com. 317 units.Doubles from $329. AE, DISC, MC, V.Metro: Metro Center.★★ Washington Plaza HotelLOGAN CIRCLE Rich and famoushipsters who might otherwise be inMiami flock here for the exclusiveoutdoor pool and buzzing scene atthe International Bar. 10 ThomasCircle NW (at 14th St. NW). y 800/424-1140 or 202/842-1300. www.washingtonplazahotel.com. 340units. Doubles from $189. AE, DC,DISC, MC, V. Metro: McPherson Sq.★★ Willard InterContinentalHotel DOWNTOWN Beaux-Artsarchitecture meets history here—where Martin Luther King, Jr. wrotehis “I Have a Dream” speech, andevery president from Grant to “W”has bunked at least once for thenight. Ask about the romantic tub inthe honeymoon suite. 1401 Pennsyl-vania Ave. NW (at 14th St. NW).y 800/487-2537 or 202/628-9100.www.washington.intercontinental.com. 341 units. Doubles from $239.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Metro: MetroCenter.historic hotel with a marble interiorlobby and well-appointed rooms isstill comfortable enough to makeyou feel right at home. 1127 Con-necticut Ave. NW. y 202/347-3000.583 units and 74 suites. Doublesfrom $250. AE, DISC, MC, V. Metro:Farragut North.★★★ Ritz-Carlton GeorgetownGEORGETOWN Historic architec-ture meets modern elegance in thisupscale hotel, once the site of a19th-century brick-and-steel inciner-ator. If the guest rooms’ marblebathrooms and goose-down pillowsdon’t soothe your soul, book a treat-ment at the pampering spa. 3100South St. NW (at 31st St. NW).y 800/542-8680 or 202/912-4100.www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/georgetown. 86 units. Doubles from $349.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. No Metroaccess (see box, p 91).★ =The River Inn FOGGY BOT-TOM If you love to travel but hateto blow so much cash dining out,book at this centrally located, mod-ern boutique hotel; each spaciousguest room has a full kitchenette.924 25th St. NW (at K St. NW).y 888/874-0100. www.theriverinn.com. 126 units. Doubles from $99.AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Metro: FoggyBottom.★★★ St. Regis Hotel DOWN-TOWN This stately hotel a merefew blocks from the White Houserecently underwent a massivemakeover to restore it to its original1926 glamour. 923 16th and K sts.NW. y 202/638-2626. www.stregis.com. 175 units. Doubles from $190–$460. Metro: Farragut North.★★ Topaz Hotel DUPONTCIRCLE This ambient palaceoffers free tarot card readings,
168TheSavvyTravelerthrough June, hotels are full withguests on business. Mid-March through June tradi-tionally is the most frenzied season,when families and school groupsdescend to see the cherry blos-soms. It’s also a popular season forprotest marches. To avoid crowds, consider visit-ing at the end of August and earlySeptember or between Thanksgiv-ing and mid-January; though thelighting of the National ChristmasTree is very popular. The July 4th Independence Daycelebration is spectacular, but theweather is very hot and humid inJuly and August. Many of Washing-ton’s performance stages close,although some outdoor arenas andparks host events. For event schedules, see www.washington.org, www.culturaltourismdc.org, www.dc.gov, and www.washingtonpost.com.Government Tourist OfficesDestination DC (901 7th St. NW,Washington, DC 20001-3719(y 800/422-8644 or 202/789-7000;www.washington.org) detailshotels, restaurants, attractions,shops, and more. Also take a look at the D.C. gov-ernment’s website, www.dc.gov,and www.culturaltourismdc.org formore information about the city. For additional information aboutWashington’s most popular touristspots, visit the National Park Servicewebsite, www.nps.gov/nacc, andthe Smithsonian Institution’s site,www.si.edu.The Best Times to GoThe city’s peak seasons generallycoincide with the sessions of Con-gress and springtime. When Congressis “in,” from about the second weekin September until Thanksgiving,and again from about mid-JanuaryBefore You GoPrevious page: The D.C. Metro.Useful Numbers & Websites • National Park Service (y 202/619-7222; www.nps.gov/ncro).You’ll reach a real person and nota recording when you phone thisnumber with questions about themonuments, the Mall, nationalpark lands, and events takingplace at these locations. • Dial-A-Park (y 202/619-7275).This is a recording of informationabout Park Service events andattractions. • Dial-A-Museum (y 202/633-1000; www.si.edu). This record-ing offers the locations of the 16Washington Smithsonian muse-ums and their daily activities. • The Washington, D.C. VisitorInformation Center(y 866/324-7386; www.itcdc.com) is a small visitor center inthe immense Ronald ReaganInternational Trade Center Build-ing (1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW). • The Smithsonian InformationCenter, in the “Castle,” 1000 Jef-ferson Dr. SW (y 202/633-1000;www.si.edu), is open every day(except Christmas) from 9am to5pm Monday through Friday and9am to 4pm Saturday throughSunday.
169GettingTherebetween G Street and New YorkAvenue NW, Washington, DC20005-2111 (y 202/481-6811). • The American AutomobileAssociation (AAA) has a largecentral office near the WhiteHouse, at 1405 G St. NW,AVERAGE TEMPERATURES & RAINFALL IN WASHINGTON, D.C.JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUNEAvg. High (°F/°C) 44/7 46/8 54/12 66/19 76/25 83/29Avg. Low (°F/°C) 30/-1 29/-1 36/2 46/8 56/14 65/19Rainfall (in.) 3.21 2.63 3.6 2.71 3.82 3.13JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DECAvg. High (°F/°C) 87/31 85/30 79/26 68/20 57/14 46/8Avg. Low (°F/°C) 69/20 68/20 61/16 50/10 39/4 32/0Rainfall (in.) 3.66 3.44 3.79 3.22 3.03 3.05By PlaneDomestic airlines with scheduledflights into all three of Washington,D.C.’s airports, Washington DullesInternational (Dulles), Ronald Rea-gan Washington National (National),and Baltimore–Washington Interna-tional (BWI), include American(y 800/433-7300; www.aa.com),Delta (y 800/221-1212; www.delta.com), United (y 800/864-8331; www.united.com), and USAirways (y 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com). Quite a few low-fare airlinesserve all three D.C. airports. South-west Airlines (y 800/435-9792;www.southwest.com), at BWI Air-port, has 162 daily flights to morethan 35 cities. Another bargain air-line at National, BWI and Dulles isAirTran (y 800/247-8726; www.airtran.com). Discount airlines that serveDulles are Virgin Atlantic(y 800/862-8621; www.virgin-atlantic.com), AirTran, Southwest,and JetBlue (y 800/538-2583;www.jetblue.com). Four discount airlines fly intoNational Airport: AirTran, Jet-Blue, Frontier (y 800/432-1359;www.frontierairlines.com) andSpirit (y 800/772-7177; www.spiritair.com).Shuttle Service from NewYork, Boston & ChicagoDelta and US Airways continue todominate the D.C.–East Coast shut-tle service. Between the two ofthem, hourly or almost-hourly shut-tle service runs between Boston’sLogan Airport and Washington, andNew York’s La Guardia Airport andWashington. The Delta Shuttle(y 800/933-5935) travels dailybetween New York and Washington,while the US Airways Shuttle(y 800/428-4322) operates dailybetween Boston and Washingtonand New York and Washington.Southwest (see details above)offers nearly hourly service dailybetween BWI and Chicago’s MidwayAirport, Providence, Hartford, LongIsland, Manchester (New Hamp-shire), Orlando, and Nashville.Getting There
170TheSavvyTraveler Individual transportation optionsat each airport are as follows:FROM RONALD REAGAN WASHINGTONNATIONAL AIRPORT Metrorail’s(y 202/637-7000) Yellow and Bluelines stop at the airport and connectvia an enclosed walkway to leveltwo, the concourse level, of themain terminal, adjacent to terminalsB and C. The ride downtown takes15 to 20 minutes (longer at rushhour). It is safe, convenient, andcheap, from $1.60 and up (faresincrease during rush hours). Metrobuses (y 202/637-7000)also serve the area, should you begoing somewhere off the Metroroute, but Metrorail is faster. If you’re renting a car from on-site car-rental agencies Alamo(y 703/414-8300), Budget (y 703/872-0320), Dollar (y 866/434-2226), Hertz (y 703/419-6300),National (y 703/414-8300) orThrifty (y 877/283-0898), go tolevel two, the concourse level, fol-low the pedestrian walkway to theparking garage, find garage A, anddescend one flight. You can alsotake the free Airport Shuttle (lookfor the sign on the curb outside theterminal) to parking garage A. Ifyou’ve rented from off-premisesagencies such as Enterprise(y 703/414-8310), head outsidethe baggage claim area of your ter-minal, and catch the shuttle busmarked for your agency. To get downtown by car, followthe signs for the George Washing-ton Parkway. Then take I-395 Northto Washington. Take the I-395 Northexit, which takes you across the14th Street Bridge. Stay in the leftlane crossing the bridge and followthe signs for Route 1, which will putyou on 14th Street NW. Ask yourhotel for directions from 14th Streetand Constitution Avenue NW. A more scenic route runs to theleft of the GW Parkway as you followthe signs for Memorial Bridge. You’llGetting into Town fromthe AirportAll three airports offer the followingoptions for getting into the city.TAXI SERVICE For a trip downtown,expect a taxi to cost anywhere from$10 to $20 for the 10- to 15-minuteride from National Airport (depen-dent on time of day and number ofpassengers and luggage); $55 to$65 for the 30- to 40-minute ridefrom Dulles Airport; and $55 to $65for the 45-minute ride from BWI(depending on the time of day, num-ber of passengers, and amount ofluggage).SUPERSHUTTLE Vans (y 800/258-3826; www.supershuttle.com) offershared-ride, door-to-door service.You can’t reserve space on the vanfor a ride from the airport, so you’lllikely have to wait 15 to 30 minutesto board and then make other stopsbefore reaching your destination. Ifyou arrive after midnight, call the24-hour toll-free number above fromNational Airport or y 703/416-7884from both Dulles and BWI. To reachdowntown, expect to pay about$14, plus $10 for each additionalperson from National; $29, plus $10per additional person from Dulles;and $35 to $40, plus $12 per addi-tional person from BWI. If you’re call-ing SuperShuttle for a ride from D.C.to an airport, reserve at least 24hours in advance.LIMOUSINES Prices start at $25 atNational, $42 at Dulles, and $95 atBWI, for private car transportationdowntown. For pickup from BWI,reserve passage by callingy 800/410-4444; for pickup fromNational or Dulles, try Red TopExecutive Sedan (y 703/522-3300) or consult the Yellow Pages. Free hotel/motel shuttlesoperate from all three airports tocertain nearby properties. Askabout such transportation when youbook a room at your hotel.
171GettingThereyou on Constitution Avenue. Askyour hotel for directions from thispoint.FROM BALTIMORE–WASHINGTONINTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Washing-ton’s Metro service runs an ExpressMetro Bus (“B30”) between itsMetrorail Green Line Greenbelt sta-tion and BWI Airport. In the airport,head to the lower level and look forp ublic transit signs to find the bus,which runs daily every 40 minutes,takes about 30 minutes, and costs$3. At the Greenbelt Metro station,you purchase a Metro fare card andboard a Metro train, which will takeyou into the city. Depending onwhere you want to go, you caneither stay on the Green Line trainto your designated stop or get off atthe Fort Totten Station to transfer toa Red Line train, which stops includeUnion Station (near Capitol Hill) andvarious downtown locations. Amtrak (y 800/872-7245) andMaryland Rural Commuter(MARC; y 866/743-3682) trainsalso run into the city. Both travelbetween the BWI Railway Station(y 410/672-6169) and Washing-ton’s Union Station (y 202/906-3104), about a 30-minute ride.Amtrak’s service is daily (ticketprices range from $13–$38 per per-son, one-way, depending on timeand train type), while MARC’s isweekdays only ($6 per person, one-way). A courtesy shuttle runs every10 minutes or so between the air-port and the train station; stop atthe desk near the baggage-claimarea to check for train or bus depar-ture times. Trains depart aboutevery hour. BWI operates a large, off-site,car-rental facility. From the groundtransportation area, a shuttle bustransports you to the lot. Rentalagencies include Avis (y 410/859-1680), Alamo (y 410/859-8092),Budget (y 410/691-2913), Dollarbe driving alongside the PotomacRiver, with the monuments in view;as you cross over Memorial Bridge,the Lincoln Memorial greets you.Stay left coming over the bridge,swoop around left of the Memorial,turn left on 23rd Street NW, right onConstitution Avenue, and then leftagain on 15th Street NW (the Wash-ington Monument will be to yourright), into the heart of downtown.FROM WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNA-TIONAL AIRPORT The WashingtonFlyer Express Bus runs betweenDulles and the West Falls ChurchMetro station, where you can boarda train for D.C. In the airport, look forsigns for the “Dulles Airport Shuttle.”Buses to the West Falls ChurchMetro station run daily, every 30minutes, and cost $10 one-way. More convenient is the Metro-bus that runs between Dulles andthe L’Enfant Plaza Metro station,within walking distance of theNational Mall and Smithsonianmuseums. The bus departs hourly,costs only $3, and takes 45 to 60minutes. SmartTrip card riders (seebelow) are eligible for a discount. For rental car pick-up at Dulles,head down the ramp near your bag-gage claim area, and walk outside tothe curb to look for your rental car’sshuttle bus stop. The buses comeby every 5 minutes or so en route tonearby rental lots. These includeAlamo (y 703/661-3230), Avis(y 703/661-3500), Budget (y 703/437-9559), Dollar (y 703/661-6924), Hertz (y 703/471-6020)Enterprise (y 703/661-8800),National (y 703/661-3200), andThrifty (y 877/283-0898). To reach downtown from Dullesby car, exit the airport and stay onthe Dulles Access Road, which leadsright into I-66 East. Follow I-66 East,which takes you across the Theo-dore Roosevelt Memorial Bridge. Besure to stay in the center lane asyou cross the bridge; this will put
172TheSavvyTraveler Metroliner service—which costsa little more but provides faster tran-sit and roomier, more comfortableseating than regular trains—is avail-able between New York and Wash-ington, D.C. and points in between.Even faster, roomier, and moreexpensive are Amtrak’s high-speedAcela Express trains. The trainstravel 150 mph (241kmph), linkingBoston, New York, and Washington. Acela Express trains travelbetween New York and Washingtonin 2 hours and 50 minutes (about 20min. faster than the Metroliner), andbetween Boston and Washington inabout 61⁄2 hours. Amtrak trains arrive at historicUnion Station, 2 MassachusettsAve. NE (y 202/289-1908; www.unionstationdc.com).By BusComing from New York? Bolt Bus(www.boltbus.com) provides dailyexpress service from Manhattan toWashington, and vice versa. Itsbuses are new and outfitted withfree wireless access and plug-ins forcharging laptops and cell phones.The Bolt Bus picks up and drops offin a prime downtown location too,at H Street between 9th and 10thstreets. (A red Bolt Bus sign marksthe spot.) Fares can run up to $20. A comparable alternative to BoltBus, Megabus (www.megabus.com; y 877/462-6342) travelsmany times a day between Wash-ington, D.C.’s Union Station andNYC, as well as 17 other locations,including Boston, Toronto, andKnoxville, Tennessee. Fares are aslow as $1 one-way, depending ondistance and other factors; mostfares run in the $13 to $25 range. Another option is the well-knownChinatown Bus (www.chinatown-bus.com) that makes frequent runsbetween New York and Washington.Its buses are older and can be(y 410/850-7112), Enterprise(y) 800/325-8007, Hertz (y 410/850-7400), National (y 410/859-8860), and Thrifty (y 410/850-7112). To reach Washington: Look forsigns for I-195 and follow I-195 Westuntil you see signs for Washingtonand the Baltimore-Washington Park-way (I-295); head south on I-295.Get off I-295 when you see the signsfor Route 50/New York Avenue,which leads into the District, viaNew York Avenue. Ask your hotelfor specific directions from NewYork Avenue NE.By CarIf you are like most visitors to Wash-ington, you’re planning to drive herevia one of the following major high-ways: I-270, I-95, and I-295 from thenorth; I-95 and I-395, Route 1, andRoute 301 from the south; Route50/301 and Route 450 from theeast; and Route 7, Route 50, I-66,and Route 29/211 from the west. No matter which road you take,you will likely have to navigate partof the Capital Beltway (I-495 andI-95). The Beltway girds the city,about 66 miles (106km) around,with more than 56 interchanges orexits, and is nearly always con-gested, especially during weekdaymorning and evening rush hours(roughly 6–9:30am and 3–7pm).Commuter traffic on the Beltwayrivals or surpasses that of L.A.’smajor freeways, and drivers can getcrazy, weaving in and out of traffic.By TrainAmtrak (y 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com) offersdaily service to Washington fromNew York, Boston, Chicago, andLos Angeles (you change trains inChicago). Amtrak also travels dailyfrom points south of Washington,including Raleigh, Charlotte, Atlanta,cities in Florida, and New Orleans.
173GettingAroundYork City (near Penn Station) toBethesda, Maryland, and Arlington,Virginia, where you can make a con-nection to D.C.’s Metro system.crowded, though. Fares range from$1 to $20. Vamoose (y 301/718-0036;www.vamoosebus.com) offers ser-vice for $30 each way from NewBy MetroMetrorail’s (www.wmata.com) sys-tem of 86 stations and 106 miles(171km) of track includes stops nearmost sightseeing attractions andextends to suburban Maryland andnorthern Virginia. Five lines—Red,Blue, Orange, Yellow, and Green—connect at several points, makingtransfers easy. All but Yellow andGreen Line trains stop at Metro Cen-ter; all but Red Line trains stop atL’Enfant Plaza; all but Blue andOrange Line trains stop at GalleryPlace/Chinatown. Metro stations are identified bybrown columns bearing the station’sname topped by the letter m . Belowthe m is a colored stripe or stripesindicating the line or lines that stopthere. The free Metro SystemPocket Guide has a map and liststhe closest Metro stops to points ofinterest. You can download a copyfrom the website, www.wmata.com. To enter or exit a Metro station,you need a computerized fare card,available at vending machines nearthe entrance. The machines takecredit cards or nickels, dimes, quar-ters, and bills from $1 to $20; theycan return up to $4.95 in change(coins only). At this time, the mini-mum fare to enter the system is$1.70, which pays for rides to andfrom any point within 7 miles (11km)of boarding during nonpeak hours;during peak hours (Mon–Fri5–9:30am and 3–7pm), $2.10 takesyou only 3 miles (5km). The maxi-mum you will pay to the farthestdestination is $5.75. Be forewarnedthat Metro Authority is always con-templating a fare hike, so theseprices may change. If you plan to take several Metro-rail trips during your stay, put morevalue on the fare card to avoid hav-ing to purchase a new card eachtime you ride. For stays of more thana few days, your best value is the7-Day Fast Pass, $47 per person forunlimited travel; 1-Day Rail Passes,$9 per person for unlimited passagethat day, after 9:30am weekdays,and all day on Saturday, Sunday, andholidays, are a good option if you’llbe riding the Metro many times inone day. You can buy these passesonline or use the passes/fare cardsmachine in the station. Metrorail opens at 5am week-days and 7am Saturday and Sunday,operating until midnight Sundaythrough Thursday, and until 3am Fri-day and Saturday. Call y 202/637-7000, or visit www.wmata.com, forholiday hours and information onMetro routes.By BusThe Metrobus system operates12,435 stops on its 1,489-square-mile (3,856-sq.-km) route, extendinginto the Virginia and Maryland sub-urbs. Stops have red, white, andblue signs that tell you what busespull into a stop, but not where theygo. Warning: Don’t rely on the busschedules posted at bus stops—they’re often out of date. For moreinformation, call y 202/637-7000.Getting Around
174TheSavvyTravelerCar Rentals/SharesAll the major car-rental companiesare represented here. See area air-ports at the beginning of this chap-ter for phone numbers for eachcompany’s airport locations. Withinthe District, car-rental locationsinclude Avis, 1722 M St. NW(y 202/467-6585) and 4400 Con-necticut Ave. NW (y 202/686-5149); Budget, 1722 M St. NW(y 202/457-1916); Enterprise,2660 Woodley Rd. NW (y 202/232-4443); Hertz, Union Station(y 202/289-5366); Alamo, UnionStation (y 888/826-6893). Whether you need a car for anhour or a month, Zipcar (y 866/494-7227 or 202/737-4900; www.zipcar.com) offers its “members”—anyone can join for $60—flexiblecar-use arrangements, with gas,insurance, and other servicesincluded. Zipcar charges $8 an hour;its daily rate is $83. The latest car share service toarrive in D.C. is Car2Go (y 877/488-4224; www.car2go.com) whichoffers fun blue-and-white SmartCarsto zip around the city. “Members”can reserve a car by the minute($0.38), hour ($13.99) or day($72.99). Every mile over 150 mileswill be charged at 45 cents per mile. Given that hotels charge about$26 for overnight parking, the Zip-car and Car2Go deals, which includeparking and fuel, could still be cost-effective.Travelers with LimitedMobilityWashington, D.C. is one of the mostaccessible cities in the world fortravelers with limited mobility. Thebest overall source for informationabout accessibility at specific Wash-ington hotels, restaurants, shoppingmalls, and attractions is the non-profit organization Access Informa-tion. You can read their information Base fare in the District is $1.70for those using cash, and $1.50 ifyou use a SmarTrip; transfers arefree and valid for 2 hours fromboarding. If you’ll be in Washingtonfor a while and plan to use thebuses a lot, consider a 1-week pass($15), available online and at theMetro Center station and other out-lets. Buy tokens at the Metro CenterSales Office, at 12th and F streets,the 12th Street entrance. Most buses operate daily almostaround the clock. Service is frequenton weekdays, especially during peakhours. On weekends and late atnight, service is less frequent. Up to two children 4 and underride free with a paying passenger onMetrobus. Reduced fares are avail-able for seniors (y 202/637-7000)and people with disabilities (y 202/962-1100). If you leave somethingon a bus, a train, or in a station, callLost and Found at y 202/962-1195.By CarMore than half of all visitors arriveby car. Once you get here, though,my advice is to park it and walk oruse the Metrorail. Traffic is alwaysthick during the week, parking spotsare scarce, and parking lots arepricey. Watch out for traffic circles.Cars in the circle have the right ofway, but no one heeds this rule.Cars zoom in without a glance at thecars already there. Sections of certain streetsbecome one-way at rush hour:Rock Creek Parkway, Canal Road,and 17th Street NW are three exam-ples. Other streets during rush hourchange the direction of some oftheir traffic lanes: Connecticut Ave-nue NW is the main one. Lit-up traf-fic signs alert you as to what’s goingon, but pay attention. You can makea right on a red light, unless a sign isposted prohibiting it.
175FastFactsdoor chimes let you know whendoors are closing. Train operatorsmake station and onboardannouncements of train destina-tions and stops. Nearly all Metro-buses have wheelchair lifts andkneeling devices at the curb. TheTTY number for Metro information isy 202/638-3780. Major Washington museums,including all Smithsonian museumbuildings, are accessible to wheel-chair visitors. A comprehensive freepublication called SmithsonianAccess lists all services available tovisitors with mobility issues. Cally 202/633-2921 or TTY 202/633-4353, or find the information onlineat www.si.edu/Visit/VisitorsWithDisabilities. Likewise, theaters and all of thememorials are equipped to accom-modate visitors with disabilities.There’s limited parking for visitorswith disabilities at some of theselocations. Call ahead for accessibil-ity information and special services.(including restaurant reviews) onlineat www.disabilityguide.org. The Washington MetropolitanTransit Authority publishes accessi-bility information on its websitewww.wmata.com, or you can cally 301/562-5360 with questionsabout Metro services for travelerswith disabilities, including how toobtain an ID card that entitles you todiscounted fares. (Make sure thatyou call at least 3 weeks ahead toallow enough time to obtain an IDcard.) For up-to-date informationabout how Metro is running the dayyou’re using it, call y 202/637-7000. Each station has an elevator withBraille number plates and wide faregates for wheelchair users; rail carsare fully accessible. Metro hasinstalled punctuated rubber tiles towarn visually impaired riders thatthey’re nearing the tracks; barriersbetween rail cars prevent the blindfrom mistaking the gap for entry toa car. For the hearing impaired,flashing lights indicate arrivingtrains; for the visually impaired,AREA CODES In the District ofColumbia, it’s y 202; in suburbanVirginia, y 703; in suburban Mary-land, y 301. You must use thearea code when dialing any number,even for local calls within the Dis-trict or to nearby Maryland or Vir-ginia suburbs.ATMS Automated tellermachines (ATMs) are on almostevery block. Most accept Visa, Mas-terCard, American Express, andATM cards from other U.S. banks.Expect to pay up to $3 per transac-tion if you’re not using your ownbank’s ATM.BUSINESS HOURS Offices are usu-ally open weekdays from 9am to5pm. Banks are open Mondaythrough Thursday from 9am to 3pm,9am to 5pm on Friday, and some-times Saturday mornings. Storestypically open between 9 and 10amand close between 5 and 6pm fromMonday through Saturday. Stores inshopping complexes or malls tendto stay open late: until about 9pmon weekdays and weekends, andmany malls and larger departmentstores are open on Sunday.CAR RENTALS See “GettingAround,” earlier in this chapter.DRUGSTORES CVS, Washington’smajor drugstore chain (with morethan 40 stores), has two convenient24-hour locations: in the West End,Fast Facts
176TheSavvyTravelerthe last Monday in May (MemorialDay), July 4 (Independence Day), thefirst Monday in September (LaborDay), the second Monday in Octo-ber (Columbus Day), November 11(Veterans Day/Armistice Day), thefourth Thursday in November(Thanksgiving Day), and December25 (Christmas).HOSPITALS If you don’t requireimmediate ambulance transporta-tion but still need emergency-roomtreatment, call one of the followinghospitals (and get directions): Chil-dren’s Hospital National MedicalCenter, 111 Michigan Ave. NW(y 202/476-5005); George Wash-ington University Hospital, 90023rd St. NW at Washington Circle(y 202/715-4000); GeorgetownUniversity Medical Center, 3800Reservoir Rd. NW (y 202/444-2000); or Howard UniversityHospital, 2041 Georgia Ave. NW(y 202/865-6100).INTERNET ACCESS Your hotel is yourbest bet since many hotels nowoffer free Internet access. Kramer-books & Afterwords Café, 1517Connecticut Ave. NW (y 202/387-1400) in Dupont Circle has one com-puter available for free Internetaccess (15-min. limit). Tryst, 245918th St., NW (y 202/232-5500) isalso a good stop for free wirelessaccess. Most Starbucks, CaribouCoffees, and Cosi coffee shops alsooffer free Internet access.LIQUOR LAWS The legal age forpurchase and consumption of alco-holic beverages is 21; proof of ageis required, so bring an ID when yougo out. Liquor stores are closed onSunday. Gourmet grocery stores,mom-and-pop grocery stores, and7-Eleven convenience stores oftensell beer and wine, even on Sunday. Do not carry open containers ofalcohol in your car or any publicarea that isn’t zoned for alcoholconsumption. The police can fineat 2000 M St. NW (y 202/862-8417), and at Dupont Circle (y 202/785-1466), which features a round-the-clock pharmacy. Check yourphone book for other convenientlocations.ELECTRICITY Like Canada, theUnited States uses 110–120 volts AC(60 cycles), compared to 220–240volts AC (50 cycles) in most ofEurope, Australia, and New Zealand.If your small appliances use 220–240volts, you’ll need a 110-volt trans-former and a plug adapter with twoflat parallel pins to operate themhere. Downward converters thatchange 220–240 volts to 110–120volts are difficult to find in the UnitedStates, so bring one with you.EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Allembassies are in D.C., the nation’scapital. Online, you will find a com-plete listing, with links to eachembassy, at www.embassy.org/embassies/index.html. Here are the addresses of sev-eral: Australia, 1601 MassachusettsAve. NW (y 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au; Canada, 501Pennsylvania Ave. NW (y 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org);Ireland, 2234 Massachusetts Ave.NW (y 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org); New Zealand, 37Observatory Circle NW (y 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.org); and theUnited Kingdom, 3100 Massachu-setts Ave. NW (y 202/588-6500;http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk/en.EMERGENCIES In any emergency,call y 911.HOLIDAYS Banks, governmentoffices, post offices, and manystores, restaurants, and museumsare closed on the following legalnational holidays: January 1 (NewYear’s Day), the third Monday in Jan-uary (Martin Luther King, Jr. Day),January 20 (Inauguration Day), thethird Monday in February (Presi-dents’ Day, Washington’s Birthday),
177FastFactsPOLICE In an emergency, dialy 911. For a nonemergency, cally 311.SAFETY Washington, like any urbanarea, has a criminal element, so it’simportant to stay alert and take nor-mal safety precautions. Ask your hotel front-desk staff orthe city’s tourist office if you’re indoubt about which neighborhoodsare safe.SMOKING In 2006, D.C. lawmakersbanned smoking in bars, restaurants,and public places, with exemptionsfor outdoor areas, hotel rooms, retailtobacco outlets, and cigar bars.TAXES The U.S. has no value-addedtax (VAT) or other indirect tax at thenational level. The sales tax on mer-chandise is 6% in D.C. The tax on res-taurant meals is 10%, and you’ll pay14% hotel tax. The hotel tax in Mary-land varies by county from 5% to 8%.The hotel tax in Virginia also variesby county, averaging about 9.75%.TELEPHONE & FAX Private corpora-tions run the telephone system inthe U.S., so rates—especially forlong-distance service and operator-assisted calls—can vary widely. Many convenience groceries andpackaging services sell prepaidcalling cards in denominations upto $50; these can be the least expen-sive way to call home. Many publicphones at airports now acceptAmerican Express, MasterCard, andVisa credit cards. Local calls madefrom public pay phones (if you canfind one) in most locales cost either25¢ or 35¢. Pay phones do notaccept pennies, and few will takeanything larger than a quarter. Youmay want to look into leasing a cell-phone for the duration of your trip. Most long-distance and interna-tional calls can be placed directlyfrom any phone. For calls withinthe United States and to Canada,dial 1 followed by the area code andthe seven-digit number. For otheryou on the spot. And nothing willruin your trip faster than getting acitation for DUI (driving under theinfluence), so don’t even think aboutdriving while intoxicated.MAIL The main post office in thecapital is the National Capitol Sta-tion, 2 Massachusetts Ave. NE(y 202/523-2368; www.usps.com).Mailboxes are blue with a red-and-white stripe and carry the inscrip-tion u.s. m ail. All U.S. addresses havea five-digit postal code (or zip code),after the two-letter state abbrevia-tion. This code is essential forprompt delivery. At press time, domestic postagerates were 28¢ for a postcard and44¢ for a letter. For internationalmail, a first-class letter of up to 1ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and79¢ to Mexico), a first-class post-card costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and79¢ to Mexico), and a preprintedpostal aerogramme costs 75¢.NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES At theairport, pick up a free copy ofWashington Flyer magazine(www.washingtonflyer.com), whichis handy as a planning tool. Washington has two daily news-papers: the Washington Post(www.washingtonpost.com) andthe Washington Times (www.washingtontimes.com). The Friday“Weekend” section of the Post isessential for finding out what’s goingon, recreation-wise. City Paper,published every Thursday and avail-able free at downtown shops andrestaurants, covers some of thesame material but is a better guideto the club and art-gallery scene. Also on newsstands is Washing-tonian, a monthly magazine withfeatures, often about the “100 Best”this or that (doctors, restaurants,and so on) in Washington; the maga-zine also offers a calendar of events,restaurant reviews, and profiles ofWashingtonians.
178TheSavvyTravelerchamber staff $1 to $2 per day. Tipthe doorman or concierge only ifhe or she has provided you withsome specific service (for example,calling a cab for you or obtaining dif-ficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip thevalet-parking attendant $1 everytime you get your car. In restaurants, bars, and night-clubs, tip service staff 15% to 20%of the check, tip bartenders 10% to15%, tip checkroom attendants $1per garment, and tip valet-parkingattendants $1 per vehicle. Tippingis not expected in cafeterias andfast-food restaurants. Tip cabdrivers 15% of the fare. As for other service personnel,tip skycaps at airports at least $1per bag, and tip hairdressers andbarbers 15% to 20%. Tipping ushers at movies andtheaters, and gas-station atten-dants, is not expected.TOILETS You won’t find public toi-lets or restrooms on the streets inD.C., but they can be found in hotellobbies, bars, restaurants, coffeeshops, museums, departmentstores, railway and bus stations, andservice stations. Large hotels andfast-food restaurants are probablythe best bet for good, clean facili-ties. Restaurants and bars in heavilyvisited areas may reserve their rest-rooms for patrons; purchasing a cupof coffee or soft drink will usuallyqualify you as a customer.WEATHER Visit www.weather.com.Also see the chart on p 169.international calls, dial 011 fol-lowed by the country code, citycode, and the telephone number ofthe person you are calling. Calls to area codes 800, 888,877, and 866 are toll-free. How-ever, calls to numbers in area codes700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletinboards, “dating” services, and soon) can be very expensive—usuallya charge of 95¢ to $3 or more perminute, and they sometimes haveminimum charges that can run ashigh as $15 or more. For reversed-charge or collectcalls, and for person-to-personcalls, dial 0 (zero, not the letter o)followed by the area code and num-ber you want; an operator will thencome on the line to assist you. Ifyou’re calling abroad, ask for theoverseas operator. For local directory assistance(information), dial y 411; for long-distance information, dial y 1,then the appropriate area codeand 555-1212.TIME Washington, D.C. observesEastern Standard Time (EST), likeNew York City. Daylight savingtime is in effect from early Marchthrough early November. Daylightsaving time moves the clock 1 hourahead of standard time. At 1am onthe last Sunday in October, clocksare set back 1 hour. For the correcttime, call the U.S. Naval ObservatoryMaster Clock at y 202/762-1401.TIPPING In hotels, tip bellhopsat least $1 per bag, and tip theRecommended ReadingFiction lovers might pick up booksby Ward Just, including his collectionof stories The Congressman WhoLoved Flaubert; Ann Berne’s A Crimein the Neighborhood; Marita Gold-en’s The Edge of Heaven; or AllenDrury’s Advise and Consent. Or con-sider a mystery in which the plotrevolves around the capital, such asMargaret Truman’s series thatincludes Murder at the Smithsonian,Murder at the Kennedy Center, and
179RecommendedReadingBuckley has also written a couple offunny, Washington-based novels,The White House Mess and No Wayto Treat a First Lady. For anotherhumorous read, put your hands onDave Barry’s Dave Barry Hits Belowthe Beltway. Two memoirs are musts for find-ing out how the powerful operate inWashington: Personal History, byformer Washington Post publisherKatharine Graham, and Washington,by Meg Greenfield, who was a col-umnist and editor at the Post formore than 30 years before herdeath in 1999. Katharine Graham’sWashington is yet another goodread—an anthology of more than100 essays and articles about Wash-ington by an eclectic bunch of peo-ple, from Will Rogers to HenryKissinger, compiled by Graham. Finally, to find out more aboutthe architecture of Washington, pickup the AIA Guide to the Architectureof Washington, D.C. by ChristopherWeeks; for information about parksand hiking trails, look for NaturalWashington by Richard Berman andDeborah Gerhard (I recommendthese books even though both needupdating). Last but not least: The perenni-ally inspiring words of AbrahamLincoln are always worth revisiting.so on, or George Pelecanos’s hard-core thrillers that take you to partsof Washington you’ll never see as atourist, such as in Hell to Pay, DramaCity, and, in 2009, The Way Home;he also recently compiled and editedD.C. Noir, a collection of 16 grittyshort stories, including one by Pele-canos himself. National Book Award finalist Lostin the City—by Pulitzer Prize–win-ning novelist Edward P. Jones—is abeautifully written collection ofshort stories about the daily lives ofAfrican Americans in the capital. Contenders, by Terence Winch,is a lively collection of stories aboutlife in Washington in the 1970s and1980s, as lived by the young andrestless of that time. History buffs shouldn’t missArthur Schlesinger’s The Birth ofthe Nation; F. Cary’s Urban Odyssey;or David Brinkley’s Washington atWar. Paul Dickson’s On This Spottraces the history of the city byrevealing exactly what took place atspecific locations—“on this spot”—in years gone by, neighborhood byneighborhood. If you like your history leavenedwith humor, purchase ChristopherBuckley’s Washington SchleppedHere: Walking in the Nation’s Capi-tal, an irreverent nonfiction take onD.C.’s famous sites and characters.
180IndexIndexSee also Accommoda-tions and Restaurantindexes, below.AAccommodations, 160–166.See also AccommodationsIndexbest bets, 162Adams Morgan HeritageTrail, 54Adams Morganneighborhood walk,80–81Adamson Gallery, 83, 108African American Civil WarMemorial and Museum,84–85Air travel, 169–171American AutomobileAssociation (AAA), 169“America on the Move”exhibit, 71Amtrak, 171, 172Antique Row, 23, 111Architecture lovers, tour for,37–43Area codes, 175Arena Stage, 157Arlington National Cemetery,24Art galleries, 83, 108Arts and entertainment,154–158ATMs (automated-tellermachines), 175BBarracks Row, 101Bartholdi Park, 100–101Bell, Alexander Graham, 33Betsy Fisher, 88, 108–109Bicycle Pro Shop, 121Biking, 123Birch and Barley andChurchkey, 146, 147Black Cat, 149Blue Mercury, 88Blues Alley, 146, 149Bohemian Caverns, 84, 149Books, recommended,178–179Bourbon, 152The Brass Knob, 80–81Bullfeathers, 102Burberry, 109Busboys and Poets, 146, 147Business hours, 175Bus travel, 172–174Butterfly Habitat Garden,46–47CCady’s Alley, 92, 104, 111Café Japone, 148Café Milano, 146, 151Café Saint-Ex, 147Calder’s Untitled, 63, 74–75C&O Canal, 93, 121–123C&O Canal Towpath, 49, 121Canoeing, 122–123Capital Bikeshare, 123Capital Grille Lounge, 146,150Capitol Building, 17, 28–29,38–39Capitol Hill, neighborhoodwalk, 98–102Capitol Hill Books, 101,104, 108Capitol Visitor Center, 12,17, 28Car rentals, 171–172, 174Carter Barron Amphitheatre,118–119Car travel, 172, 174Car2Go, 174Charlie Palmer Steak,146, 150Cherry blossoms, 127Cherry trees, 6Children, families with, tourfor, 45–49Corcoran Gallery of Art,73–74Cowgirl Creamery, 95Cultural Tourism DC, 54Curator’s Office, 83, 108DDAR Constitution Hall, 157Dawn Price Baby, 104, 108DC Improv, 156, 157D.C. Tours, 9Dean & Deluca, 104, 111Denim Bar, 104, 109Dining, 130–142. See alsoRestaurant Indexbest bets, 134food trucks, 142reservations, 139Dinosaur Hall (NationalMuseum of NaturalHistory), 65Disabled travelers, 174–175District of Columbia ArtsCenter, 81The Dog Shop, 113Douglass, Frederick,National Historic Site,57–58Downtown Heritage Trail, 54Drugstores, 175–176Dumbarton House, 33Dumbarton Oaks, 22, 124Dupont Circle, neighborhoodwalk, 86–89Dupont Memorial Fountain,88EEastern Market, 4–5, 16,101–102, 104, 114Edwards, John, residence of,33Eighteenth Street Lounge,89, 151Electricity, 176El Greco’s Christ Cleansingthe Temple, 62Embassies and consulates,176Embassy Row, 42–43Emergencies, 176Evermay, 90FFado Irish Pub, 147Families with children, tourfor, 45–49FDR Memorial, 11Federal Bureau ofInvestigation (FBI), 30Fletcher’s Boathouse, 122Folger Shakespeare Library,40, 100Folger Theatre, 157Food trucks, 142Ford’s Theatre, 5, 156, 157Ford’s Theatre NationalHistoric Site, 56–57,95–96Fort DeRussy, 117Foxhall House, 33Frederick Douglass NationalHistoric Site, 57–58Freer and Sackler Galleries ofArt, 75Friendship Heights, 109FujiFilm Giant Panda Habitat,48GThe Galleries on 14th Street,83, 104, 108Gallery plan b, 83, 108Gauguin’s Parau na te Varuaino (Words of the Devil),62–63
181IndexMMadame Tussaud’s, 94–95Mail, 177Map of the Political Stars, 32Marian Koshland ScienceMuseum, 96Martin Luther King, Jr.Memorial, 11Martin’s Tavern, 150Marvin, 148Metro Mutts, 104, 114Metropolitan Club, 146,150–151Metrorail, 173Middle C Music, 104, 113Millennium, 112Miss Lydia English’sGeorgetown FemaleSeminary, 33Miss Pixie’s, 83, 104, 112Monet, ClaudeRouen Cathedral, WestFacade, 62Woman with a Parasol,62Montrose Park, 91, 118Mount Vernon Estate andGardens, 56Mount Vernon Trail, 125M Street, corner ofWisconsin Avenue and,23, 104Muléh, 104, 112Museum of Natural History,4, 12–13, 69–71Museums, 60–78Muzette, 148–149NNational Air and SpaceMuseum, 47, 76–77National Archives, 16, 30National Building Museum,42, 46, 96National Cherry BlossomFestival, 6National Gallery of Art, 6, 12,41, 61East Building, 74–75National GeographicExplorer’s Hall, 88–89National Harbor, 152National Mall, 4, 38outdoor activities,127–128National Museum of AfricanArt, 77National Museum ofAmerican History, 4,12–13, 69–71IIbiza Night Club, 146, 152IMAX TheaterLockheed Martin, 47Museum of NaturalHistory, 67Insect Zoo (Museum ofNatural History), 67Intelsat building, 43International Bar, 150International Spy Museum,30, 47, 96–97Internet access, 176JJ. Edgar Hoover Building, 30Jefferson, Thomas, 69Jefferson Building of theLibrary of Congress,39–40Jefferson Memorial, 11KKayaking, 122–123Kennedy, John F. and Jackie,residences of, 33, 53Kennedy Center for thePerforming Arts, 156, 157Kerry, John, 33Kissinger, Henry, residenceof, 33Korean War VeteransMemorial, 11Kramerbooks & AfterwordsCafé, 21, 86, 176Kreeger Museum, 75LL’Enfant’s Grid, 38Leonardo da Vinci’s Ginevrade’ Benci, 61Lettie Gooch, 109Library of Congress, 16, 57Limited mobility, travelerswith, 174–175Limousines, 170Lincoln, Abraham, 39, 69Cottage, 58Ford’s Theatre NationalHistoric Site, 56–57,95–96Lincoln Memorial, 9Lincoln’s Cottage, 58Lincoln Theatre, 84, 156, 157Liquor laws, 176–177Local 16, 146, 150Lockheed Martin IMAXTheater, 47Lou Lou, 88, 109–110Lover’s Lane, 124–125Georgetown, 6, 22neighborhood walk,90–93outdoor activities,124–125traveling to, 91Georgetown FemaleSeminary, Miss LydiaEnglish’s, 33Georgetown Flea Market,114Georgetown Running Co.,109Georgetown University, 92G Fine Art, 83Ginevra de’ Benci, Leonardoda Vinci’s, 61Graham, Katharine, 33Gravelly Point, 49Greater U Street HeritageTrail, 83–84Great Falls, 122Great Falls Tavern, 122Green Turtle, 151The Guitar Shop, 113Gunboat Philadelphia, 69HHall of Dinosaurs (NationalMuseum of NaturalHistory), 65Hall of Gems and Minerals(Museum of NaturalHistory), 67Hall of Mammals (NationalMuseum of NaturalHistory), 66Harriman, Pamela and W.Averell, residence of, 33Heights of Building Act, 40Helix Lounge, 147Hemphill Fine Arts, 83, 108Hilton Washington, 52Hirshhorn Museum &Sculpture Garden, 74Historic sights andattractions, 52–58Holidays, 176Home Rule, 83, 104, 112Horseback riding, 118Hospitals, 176Hotels, 160–166. See alsoAccommodations Indexbest bets, 162House of Representatives,gallery, 29Howard University, 85HR-57, 149Hu’s Shoes, 114
182IndexSmash Records, 81Smithsonian Castle, 41, 128Smoking, 177Sonoma, 152The Star-Spangled Banner,54–55, 70–71Stetson’s Famous Bar & Grill,146, 147Stuart, Gilbert, 57Studio Theatre, 156, 158Subway, 173Sullivan’s Toy Store, 108SuperShuttle, 170Supreme Court, 17–18, 29Susquehanna AntiqueCompany, 104, 112TTabaq Bistro, 148Taxes, 177Taxis, 170Taylor, Elizabeth, home ofJohn Warner and, 33Telephone and fax, 177–178Temperatures, average, 169Theater J, 158Thomas Pink, 104, 110Thompson’s Boat Center,121–122Thurgood Marshall Centerfor Service and Heritage,84Tidal Basin, 5outdoor activities,127–128paddle boats on the,46, 128Time zone, 178Timothy Paul Carpets &Textiles, 113Tiny Jewel Box, 104, 113Tipping, 178Toilets, 178Tourist information, 168Tours, 54Town, 147Town Hall, 147Train travel, 172Transformer, 83, 108Tryst, 80, 148, 176Tudor Place, 91–92Tugooh Toys, 104, 108Tune Inn, 146, 1512 Amys, 146, 147UUltra Violet Flowers, 104,111Union Station, 18, 42, 98–99Pentagon (Department ofDefense), 34Philadelphia (gunboat), 69Phillips Collection, 73, 86–87Picasso’s Nude Woman, 63Picnic areas, Rock CreekPark, 118Police, 177Political Washington, tour of,26–35Politics and Prose, 108Pollock’s Number 1, 63Post Pub, 31–32, 146, 151Potomac River, strollingalong the, 127POV Bar, 4, 146, 150Proof, 97, 146, 152Proper Topper, 110Pulp DC, 83, 104, 110–111RRainfall, average, 169Raphael’s Saint George andthe Dragon, 61–62Reflecting Pool, 128Restaurants, 130–142. Seealso Restaurant Indexbest bets, 134food trucks, 142reservations, 139Revolution Cycles, 121Rock Creek Horse Center,118Rock Creek Park, 116–119Rock Creek Park Planetariumand Nature Center, 117Rock Creek Park TennisCenter, 118Roosevelt Island Park, 119Rose Park, 118R Street (Georgetown), 22SSafety, 177Saint George and theDragon, Raphael’s, 61–62Sarah’s Market, 125Sassanova, 104, 114Seasons, 168Segway tours, 54Senate, gallery, 29Sequoia, 231789, 146, 152Sewall-Belmont House, 57Sewall-Belmont House &Museum, 99–100Shakespeare Theatre, 19, 97Shakespeare TheatreCompany, 156, 158Shopping, 104–114best bets, 104National Museum of Crimeand Punishment, 78National Museum of NaturalHistory, 46–47, 65–67National Museum of theAmerican Indian, 40–41,77–78National Museum of Womenin the Arts, 94National Portrait Gallery,41–42, 57National Postal Museum, 78National RealtorsAssociation, 43National Theatre, 156,157–158National World War IIMemorial, 10National Zoological Park, 6,15–16, 48Neighborhood walks,79–102Adams Morgan, 80–81Capitol Hill, 98–102Dupont Circle, 86–89Georgetown, 90–93Penn Quarter, 94–97U Street Corridor/14thStreet, 82–85Newseum, 13, 78Newspapers and magazines,177Nightlife, 144–152best bets, 1469:30 Club, 146, 149Nine West, 104, 110OOak Hill Cemetery, 90–91,125Ocean Hall (NationalMuseum of NaturalHistory), 65–66Octagon Museum, 53Off the Record Bar, 4, 13, 35,146, 151O’Keeffe’s Jack-in-the-PulpitNo. 3, 63The Old Print Gallery, 112Old Stone House, 93Outdoor activities, 116–128PPaddle boats on the TidalBasin, 46, 128Passenger, 148Pearson’s, 111Pei, I. M., 41Penn Quarter, neighborhoodwalk, 94–97