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  • 1. UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUDonaukanalDonaukanalUniversitäts-Universitäts-campuscampusObeOber DonaustDonaustr.AmHeumarktAmHeumarktRechteRechteWienzeileienzeileAmStadtparkObeObere Augartenstrassee AugartenstrasseUnteUntereAugartenstrasseAugartenstrassRembRembrandtstandtstrasseasseParkringarkringKärntnerRingKärntnerRingHauptstHauptstr.OperngasseOperngasseFavoritenstr.SchubertringSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrassePrinz-Eugen-StrasseDr.-Karl-Luege.-Karl-LuegerRing RingDr.-K.-Renne.-K.-RennerRing RingMuseumstMuseumstr.Währinger StWähringer Str.SchottenringSchottenringNussdoNussdorferStferStr.MaMargagaretenstrasseetenstrasseWollzeileollzeileArgentinierstgentinierstr.NeulinggasseNeulinggassePorzellangasseWiednerFasangasseLinkeWienzeileMosergasseMosergasseHahngasseHahngasseSeegasseSeegasseFürstengasseFürstengasseGlasergasseGlasergasseTürTürkenstrasseenstrasseMaria-TheMaria-TheresienstesienstrasseasseHörlgasseHörlgasseKolingasseolingasseBeBerggasseggasseZelinkagasseZelinkagasseGonzagagasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseEsslinggasseHeinrichsgasseHeinrichsgasseWerdertorgasseerdertorgasseSchick-Schick-gassegasseBöBörsegassesegasseHelferstoHelferstorferStferStr.HessgasseHessgasseHohenstaufengasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseNeutorgasseMaMarc-Aurel-Stc-Aurel-Str.WipplingeipplingerststrasseasseHerrengasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-Schreyvogel-gassegasseNaglergasseNaglergasseTeinfalsteinfalstr.BognergasseRenngasseRenngasseStrauchgasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseSeitergasseHabsburger-Habsburger-gassegasseTegetthoffstegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseHimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseBallgasseKrugerstKrugerstr.WalfischgassealfischgasseSchellinggasseSchellinggasseOperngasseOperngasseBabenbeBabenbergegerststr.ElisabethstElisabethstr.EschenbachgasseEschenbachgasseNibelungengasseNibelungengasseMahlerstMahlerstr.FichtegasseichtegasseKärntnerstr.Kärntnerstr.SchwaSchwarzenbezenberg-stg-str.GoethegasseGoethegasseBösendorferstr.Bösendorferstr.LeháLehárgassegassePaniglgasseaniglgasseResselgasseResselgasseTreitlstreitlstr.SchauhofeSchauhofer-gassegasseDumbastDumbastr.BrucknerstBrucknerstr.MattiellistMattiellistr.Franrankenberg-enberg-gassegasseKarlsgasseKarlsgasseSchwindgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseohllebengasseGusshausstrasseGusshausstrassePressgassePressgasseMühlgasseMühlgasseFloragasseFloragasseMozartgasseMozartgasseTaubstummen-aubstummen-gassegassePaulanergasseaulanergasseSchaumburgergassWaltergasseGross NeugasseGross NeugasseRienösslgasseRienösslgasseKleine Neug.Kleine Neug.TheresianumgasseGrohgasseMarchettigasseSteggasseSteggasseZollergasseStiftgasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseSchweighofergasseKöstleKöstlergassegasseTheobaldgasseheobaldgasseStiegengasseStiegengasseLuftbadgasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseWindmühlgasseGumpendoGumpendorferStferStrasseasseStiftgasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseSigmundgasseBreite GasseBreite GasseNeustiftgasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstolksgartenstr.AueAuerststr.BellariastBellariastr.JosefsgasseJosefsgasseDoblhoffgasseDoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseBuchfeldgasseFelderstelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseLenaugasseGrillpaGrillparzerstzerstr.UniveUniversitätsstsitätsstrasseasseReichsratsstReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseGarnisongasseWicWickenburggasseenburggasseEbendoEbendorferst ferstr.FrankgasserankgasseRathausstRathausstr.BeBerggasseggasseTürTürkenstenstr.LackiereLackierer-gassegasseRotenhausgasseWasagasseasagasseMüllnergasseMüllnergasseThurngassehurngasseSensengasseSensengasseGrundl-gasseRotenlöwengasseRotenlöwengassePrechtlgasseSeverin-gassePiaristengassFlorianigasseFlorianigasseZeltgasseTabo aborststr.TaborstrassePraterstaterstr.CastellezgasseCastellezgasseNoNovaragassearagasseJosefinengasseJosefinengasseZirkusgasseZirkusgasseBlumauergasseBlumauergasseGrossStadtgutgasseGrossStadtgutgasseGloc GlockengasseengasseKleinePfarrgasseKleinePfarrgasseSchiffamts-Schiffamts-gassegasseGrosseGrossePfarrgassePfarrgasseSchiffgasseSchiffgasseKleineSperlgasseKleineSperlgasseSchmelzgasseSchmelzgasseGr.Sperlgasse .SperlgasseHaidgasseHaidgasseLilienbrunngasseGredleGredlerststr.HollandstHollandstr.HaasgasseHaasgasseMalzgasseMalzgasseKrummbaum-Krummbaum-gassegasseSchreygasseFranz-Hochedlinger-GasseWallnerstallnerstr.Liebenberg-Liebenberg-gassegasseWiesingerstWiesingerstr.CobdengasseCobdengasseRosenbursenstrasseRosenbursenstrasseRotenturmstRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseRiemergasseBäcBäckerstr.erstr.SchulerstSchulerstr.PostgasseostgasseKantgasseKantgassePestalozzi-estalozzi-gassegasseCano CanovagasseagasseHegelgasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseZaunergasseBayerngasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseeithgasseJaurésgasseaurésgasseJohannesgasseohannesgasseSchleifmühlgasseStrohgasseStrohgasseSalesianergasseSalesianergasseWehrgasseehrgasseFranzensgasseranzensgassePlösslgassePlösslgasseJacquingasseStadiongasseStadiongasseKlanggasseKlanggasseSingerstSingerstr.Scholzg.Scholzg.FlossgasseFlossgasseLöwelstr.Löwelstr.Invalidenstr.LisztstLisztstr.SeilerstätteSeilerstätteBrandstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktBauernmarktKohlmarktohlmarktTuchlaubenBuBurgringgringOpernringOpernringG.-G.-Kelleeller-Gasse-GasseFranz-Josefs-Kairanz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesSalzgriesFleischmarktFleischmarktLugeckLugeckGrabenabenDominikanerbasteiDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-Kairanz-Josefs-KaiBiberstBiberstr.StubenringStubenringGetreidemarktResselparkResselparkSeServitengassevitengasseTandelmarktgasseandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseGrossMohrengasseImImWerderdMölMölkerBasteierBasteiAmHofAmHofTieferGrabenTieferGrabenThavonatgasse havonatgasseSchottengasseSchottengasseDorotheergasseDorotheergasseAugustiner StAugustiner Str.KettenbrücettenbrückengasseengasseGriechengasseGriechengasseSalztorgasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseeihburggasseStrudlhofgasseStrudlhofgasseBuBurggasseggasseMariahilferStrasseMariahilferStrasseEsterhazygasseHeumühlgasseHeumühlgasseWaaggasseaaggasseKlagbaumgasseFriedrichstFriedrichstrasseasseLothringerstrasseLothringerstrasseRennwegRennwegReisner StReisner Str.BeatrixgasseBeatrixgasseKarmelitergasseKarmelitergasseSche ScherzergassezergasseRossauer LändeRossauer LändeLeopoldsgasseLeopoldsgasseLeopoldsgasseLeopoldsgasseObere DonaustObere DonaustrasseassePramergassePramergasseGrünentorgasseGrünentorgasseLiechtensteinstLiechtensteinstr.Franz-Josefs-Kairanz-Josefs-KaiGölsdoGölsdorfgassefgasseSchSchwarzspanierstzspanierstr.GarnisongasseGarnisongasseBräunerstBräunerstr.Kärntnerstr. Kärntnerstr.SchikanedergasseAspernbrück-gasseLerchenfelderStr.NaturhistorischesNaturhistorischesMuseumMuseumKunsthistorischesKunsthistorischesMuseumMuseumLiechtensteinLiechtensteinMuseumMuseumWienWienMuseumMuseumMAKMAK(Museumf(MuseumfürürAngewandteAngewandteKunst)Kunst)Dom-U.Dom-U.Diözesan-Diözesan-MuseumMuseumSigmundSigmundFreudFreudMueumMueumVölölkerkundeerkundeMuseumMuseumEphesosEphesosMuseumMuseumSammlungAlterSammlungAlterMusikinstrumenteMusikinstrumenteSpanischeSpanischeHofreitschuleHofreitschuleMozarthausMozarthausAlbertinaAlbertinaBurBurgtortorHoherHoherMarktMarktAltesAltesRathausRathausLeopoldLeopoldMuseumMuseumZoomZoomDschungelDschungelUniversitätfürUniversitätfürAngewandteAngewandteKunstKunstKünstler-Künstler-HausHausPalaisPalaisAuersbergAuersbergTheseus-Theseus-TempelTempelAtelierAtelierAugartenAugartenKrhs.DerKrhs.DerBarmheBarmherzigenzigenBrüderBrüderJosephinumJosephinumMuseumMuseumMUMOKMUMOKArchitektur-Architektur-zentrumzentrumUnteresUnteresBelvedereBelvederePalaisalaisSchwaSchwarzenbergzenbergDritteDritteMannMannZumZumheiligenheiligenJosefJosefSecessionSecessionKUNSTHALLEKUNSTHALLEwienwienSchlick-Schlick-platzplatzHelden-Helden-platzplatzRoosevelt-Roosevelt-platzplatzRathaus-Rathaus-platzplatzMozart-Mozart-platzplatzRilRilke-e-platzplatzBallhaus-Ballhaus-platzplatzJosefsplatzJosefsplatzMichaeler-Michaeler-platzplatzO.O.Wagneagner-PlatzPlatzFritz-Fritz-Grünbaum-Grünbaum-Platz.Platz.Dr.-Karl-.-Karl-LuegeLueger-Platz-PlatzFranziskaner-ranziskaner-platzplatzMaria-Maria-TheTheresien-esien-PlatzPlatzErzhezherzog-zog-Johann-Johann-PlatzPlatzBauernfeld-Bauernfeld-platzplatzKarmeliteKarmeliter-platzplatzOskaOskar-Kokoschka-oschka-PlatzPlatzMauthe-Mauthe-PlatzPlatzStephans-Stephans-platzplatzBeethoven-Beethoven-platzplatzFrankhplatzankhplatzFriedrich-riedrich-Schmidt-Schmidt-PlatzPlatzMinoriten-Minoriten-platzplatzWideWider-hofehofer-platzplatzDeutsch-Deutsch-meistemeister-platzplatzSchmerling-Schmerling-platzplatzPassauerassauerPlatzPlatzSchweden-Schweden-platzplatzMinoriten-Minoriten-platzplatzAlbertinaAlbertinaPlatzPlatzConcordia-Concordia-platzplatzJ.-Raab-J.-Raab-PlatzPlatzSchwaSchwarzenbezenberg-g-platzplatzJuden-Juden-platzplatzG.-Coch-G.-Coch-PlatzPlatzR.-Stolz-R.-Stolz-PlatzPlatzBrahms-Brahms-platzplatzBörse-Börse-platzplatzRudolfs-Rudolfs-platzplatzMoMorzin-zin-platzplatzSchillerplatzSchillerplatzLiechtensteinLiechtensteinParkParkRathaus-thaus-ParkarkSigmund-Sigmund-Freud-parkFreud-parkEsterhazyparkBotanischerBotanischerGaGartendertenderUniversitätUniversitätWienWienSchwarzenberg-Schwarzenberg-GaGartentenBeBelvedere-vedere-GaGartentenBurg-Burg-GaGartentenStadadtparkparkVolksgartenVolksgartenAlfred-Alfred-GrünGrünwald-ald-ParkarkSchönbornParkA.Carlsson-A.Carlsson-ParkParkAugaAugartentenAmAmModena-Modena-ParkParkWilhelmkienzl-Wilhelmkienzl-ParkarkFlorianiFlorianiparkarkWettsteinWettsteinparkarkVolkert-platzKarlsplatzKarlsplatzResselParkResselParkINNEREINNERESTADTADT1.1.ALSERGRUNDALSERGRUND9.9.MARIAHILF6.HOFBURGHOFBURGNEUENEUEBURGBURGMUSEUMS-MUSEUMS-QUARTIERQUARTIERSCHOTTENTORSCHOTTENTORSTEPHANS-STEPHANS-PLAPLATZHERREN-HERREN-GASSEGASSESCHOTTENRINGSCHOTTENRINGSCHWEDEN-SCHWEDEN-PLAPLATZROSSAUERROSSAUERLÄNDELÄNDETABOR-ABOR-STR.STR.VOLKS-OLKS-THEATERTHEATERRATHAUSRATHAUSKETTEN-ETTEN-BRÜCBRÜCKENGASSEENGASSEPILGPILGRAMGASSEAMGASSENEUBAU-GASSEMUSEUMS-MUSEUMS-QUAQUARTIERTIERTAUBSTUMMEN-AUBSTUMMEN-GASSEGASSEKARLS-KARLS-PLAPLATZSTUBENTORSTUBENTORSTADTPARKADTPARKWÄHRINGERSTR.-VOLKSOPERStiftskircheStiftskircheSt.Ursula.Ursula-kirchekircheMalteseMalteseFranziskaner-anziskaner-kirchekircheSt.AnnaSt.AnnaSt.MichaelerMichaelerAugustiner-Augustiner-kirchekircheSt.Joseph-.Joseph-kirchekircheKarls-Karls-kirchekircheSchottenstiftSchottenstiftDominikaner-Dominikaner-kirchekircheMariahilfkircheMariahilfkircheSeServiten-viten-kirchekircheKapuzinerkircheKapuzinerkircheMariaamMariaamGestadeGestadeRuprechts-Ruprechts-kirchekircheStephansdomStephansdomSt.PeterSt.PeterJustiz-Justiz-ministeriumministeriumVotivkircheotivkircheMariadeMariadeMercedesMercedesSalesianer-Salesianer-klosterklosterGardekircheGardekircheMinoriten-Minoriten-kirchekircheVolkstheaterolkstheaterBurgtheaterBurgtheaterTheateri.d.JosefstadtTheateranTheateranderWienderWienEnglishEnglishTheatreTheatreDasDasSchauspielhausSchauspielhausStaatsoperaatsoperAkademie-Akademie-theatertheaterKammer-Kammer-spielespieleKammer-Kammer-operoperRossauerRossauerStegStegAspern-Aspern-brücbrückeSchweden-Schweden-brücbrückeSalztoSalztor-brücbrückeRossauerRossauerBrückeBrückeAugarten-Augarten-brücbrückeMarien-Marien-brücbrückeStiftskaseStiftskasePalaisalaisLiechtensteinLiechtensteinRathausRathausParlamentarlamentJustiz-Justiz-PalastPalastDonaukanalUniversitäts-campusOber Donaustr.AmHeumarktRechteWienzeileAmStadtparkObere AugartenstrasseUntereAugartenstrassRembrandtstrasseParkringKärntnerRingHauptstr.OperngasseFavoritenstr.SchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.Währinger Str.SchottenringNussdorferStr.MargaretenstrasseWollzeileArgentinierstr.NeulinggassePorzellangasseWiednerLinkeWienzeileMosergasseHahngasseSeegasseFürstengasseGlasergasseTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseZelinkagasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseHeinrichsgasseWerdertorgasseSchick-gasseBörsegasseHelferstorferStr.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.Frankenberg-gasseKarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePressgasseMühlgasseFloragasseMozartgasseTaubstummen-gassePaulanergasseGross NeugasseRienösslgasseKleine Neug.SteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorferStrasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreite GasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.JosefsgasseDoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseWickenburggasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.Lackierer-gasseRotenhausgasseWasagasseMüllnergasseThurngasseSensengasseRotenlöwengasseFlorianigasseTaborstr.TaborstrassePraterstr.CastellezgasseNovaragasseJosefinengasseZirkusgasseBlumauergasseGrossStadtgutgasseGlockengasseKleinePfarrgasseSchiffamts-gasseGrossePfarrgasseSchiffgasseKleineSperlgasseSchmelzgasseGr.SperlgasseHaidgasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.HaasgasseMalzgasseKrummbaum-gasseSchreygasseFranz-Hochedlinger-GasseWallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstrasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseSchleifmühlgasseStrohgasseSalesianergasseWehrgasseFranzensgassePlösslgasseStadiongasseKlanggasseSingerstr.Scholzg.FlossgasseLöwelstr.Lisztstr.SeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarktTuchlaubenBurgringOpernringG.-Keller-GasseFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringGetreidemarktResselparkServitengasseTandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseImWerdMölkerBasteiAmHofTieferGrabenThavonatgasseSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustiner Str.KettenbrückengasseGriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseStrudlhofgasseBurggasseMariahilferStrasseHeumühlgasseWaaggasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseRennwegReisner Str.BeatrixgasseKarmelitergasseScherzergasseRossauer LändeLeopoldsgasseLeopoldsgasseObere DonaustrassePramergasseGrünentorgasseLiechtensteinstr.Franz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseSchwarzspanierstr.GarnisongasseBräunerstr.Kärntnerstr.SchikanedergasseAspernbrück-gasseLerchenfelderStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumLiechtensteinMuseumWienMuseumMAK(MuseumfürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumSigmundFreudMueumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlungAlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleMozarthausAlbertinaBurgtorHoherMarktAltesRathausLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelUniversitätfürAngewandteKunstKünstler-HausPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelAtelierAugartenKrhs.DerBarmherzigenBrüderJosephinumMuseumMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergDritteMannZumheiligenJosefSecessionKUNSTHALLEwienSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzMozart-platzRilke-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzO.Wagner-PlatzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Dr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzBauernfeld-platzKarmeliter-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzMauthe-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzFrankhplatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzWider-hofer-platzDeutsch-meister-platzSchmerling-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzBrahms-platzBörse-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzSchillerplatzLiechtensteinParkRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBotanischerGartenderUniversitätWienSchwarzenberg-GartenBelvedere-GartenBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkA.Carlsson-ParkAugartenAmModena-ParkWilhelmkienzl-ParkFlorianiparkWettsteinparkKarlsplatzResselParkINNERESTADT1.ALSERGRUND9.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSCHOTTENTORSTEPHANS-PLATZHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGSCHWEDEN-PLATZROSSAUERLÄNDETABOR-STR.VOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEPILGRAMGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERTAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKStiftskircheSt.Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt.AnnaSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt.Joseph-kircheKarls-kircheSchottenstiftDominikaner-kircheMariahilfkircheServiten-kircheKapuzinerkircheMariaamGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt.PeterJustiz-ministeriumVotivkircheMariadeMercedesSalesianer-klosterGardekircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheateranderWienEnglishTheatreDasSchauspielhausStaatsoperAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operRossauerStegAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeRossauerBrückeAugarten-brückeMarien-brückeStiftskasePalaisLiechtensteinRathausParlamentJustiz-Palast1/4mi000.25kmCENTRALVIENNAU-BahnInformationChurchPostOfficeHospitalTheaterLibraryMuseumWalkingPathU110˚ F100˚ F50˚ F60˚ F70˚ F80˚ F90˚ F40˚ F32˚ F20˚ F10˚ F0˚ F-10˚ F-20˚ FTo convert F to C:subtract 32 and multiplyby 5/9 (.555)To convert C to F:multiply by 1.8and add 3240˚ C30˚ C20˚ C10˚ C-18˚ C0˚ C-10˚ C-30˚ C32˚ F = 0˚ CTo convert.........................inches to centimeters....................centimeters to inches......................feet to meters..................................meters to feet................................yards to meters................................meters to yards..............................miles to kilometers........................kilometers to miles.........................multiply by2.54.39.303.28.911.091.61.621 mile = 1.6 km1 km = .62 mile1 ft = .30 m1 m = 3.3 ftTo convert..........................Ounces to grams.........................Grams to ounces............................Pounds to kilograms.......................Kilograms to pounds.....................multiply by28.35.035.452.201 gram = .04 ounce1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds1 ounce = 28 grams1 pound = .4555 kilogramTo convert.........................Gallons to liters........................Liters to gallons.......................Pints to liters............................Liters to pints...........................multiply by4.55.22.561.76To call Austria from another country: Dial the international access code (US or Canada 011, UK orNew Zealand 00, Australia 0011) followed by the country code (43), and then the local number.To make a direct International call from Austria: Dial 00 followed by the country code (US orCanada 1, UK 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), the area code, then the local number.vUK US Europe8 6 3610 8 3812 10 4014 12 4216 14 4418 16 4620 18 48UK Metric (Ht cm) US109 4122 6140 8147 10152 12157 14UK Metric (cm) US Europe91 36 4697 38 48102 40 50107 42 52112 44 54Fold Fold
  • 2. 2nd EditiondayBYday™Viennaby Teresa Fisher
  • 3. Contents 14 Favorite Moments  1 1 The Best Full-Day Tours  7The Best in One Day  8The Best in Two Days  14The Best in Three Days  20 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours  25Imperial Vienna  26Jugendstil Vienna  32City of Music  36Kids’ Vienna  42Jewish Vienna  46“The Third Man” in Vienna  50Best Churches  52The Ringstrasse  56 3 The Best Neighborhood Walks  61Stephansdom District  62The Belvedere  66Schottenring & Alsergrund  70The MuseumsQuartier (MQ)  74 4 The Best Shopping  79Shopping Best Bets  80Vienna Shopping A to Z  85 5 The Great Outdoors  93Stadtpark 94Prater 96The Danube  100Grinzing 102Schönbrunn 104
  • 4. 6 The Best Dining  109Dining Best Bets  110Vienna Dining A to Z  116 7 The Best Nightlife  123Nightlife Best Bets  124Vienna Nightlife A to Z  129 8 The Best Arts & Entertainment  133Arts & Entertainment Best Bets  134Arts & Entertainment A to Z  137 9 The Best Lodging  141Lodging Best Bets  142Vienna Lodging A to Z  148 The Savvy Traveler  155Before You Go  156Getting There  159Getting Around  160Fast Facts  161Vienna: A Brief History  168Vienna’s Art & Architecture  170Useful Words & Phrases  172 Index  175
  • 5. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons Ltd,The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester,West Sussex PO19 8SQ, EnglandTelephone (+44) 1243 779777Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): cs-books@wiley.co.uk. Visitour Home Page on www.wiley.comAll Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in aretrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechani-cal, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except under the terms ofthe Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licenseissued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, Saffron House, 6-10 Kirby Street,London EC1N 8TS, UK, without the permission in writing of the Publisher. Requeststo the Publisher should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley& Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, Eng-land, or emailed to permreq@wiley.co.uk, or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620.Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are oftenclaimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in this bookare trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of theirrespective owners. The Publisher is not associated with any product or vendormentioned in this book.This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative informationin regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold on the understanding thatthe Publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services. If professionaladvice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent pro-fessional should be sought.Editorial Director: Kelly ReganProduction Manager: Daniel MerseyCommissioning Editor: Mark HenshallDevelopment Editor: Sara ChareProject Editor: Hannah ClementPhoto Research: Cherie Cincilla, Richard H. Fox, Jill EmenyCartography: Simonetta GioriWiley publishes in a variety of print and electronic formats and by print-on-demand. Some material included with standard print versions of this book maynot be included in e-books or in print-on-demand. If this book refers to mediasuch as a CD or DVD that is not included in the version you purchased, youmay download this material at http://booksupport.wiley.com. For more infor-mation about Wiley products, visit www.wiley.com.British Library Cataloguing in Publication DataA catalogue record for this book is available from the British LibraryISBN 978-1-119-99839-6 (pbk), ISBN 978-1-119-97261-7 (ebk),ISBN 978-1-119-99875-4 (ebk), ISBN 978-1-119-99872-3 (ebk)Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition ServicesPrinted and bound in China by RR Donnelley5 4 3 2 1
  • 6. A Note from the Editorial DirectorOrganizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and thenexpect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides aredifferent. These guides tell you the best of everything, and thenthey show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficientway. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized bytime, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes witha bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.Would you like to wind back the clock to Imperial times at the Hof-burg, visit Mozart’s house, cruise the Blue Danube or admire Lipiz-zaner horses strutting to Waltz music? Or catch a tram along epicViennese legendary coffee houses or snack on a large Wienerschnitzel? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Daysgive you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you tothe top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help youaccess those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for onecomplete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res-taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild-est nightlife—it’s all here.Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors person-ally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lotwho say what they think and would never include places theywouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open tosuggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, pleasesend your comments our way at feedback@frommers.com, andwe’ll pass them on.Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companionyou can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.Warm regards,Kelly Regan, Editorial DirectorFrommer’s Travel Guides
  • 7. viAbout the AuthorFreelance travel writer and photographer Teresa Fisher has been a regularvisitor to Vienna for over 25 years, lured by the art and architecture, thecoffee houses and especially the city’s rich musical heritage. Teresa hasauthored more than twenty guidebooks for a variety of publishers (includ-ing Thomas Cook, Lonely Planet and the AA). A fluent German speaker, amusic graduate and a specialist in European city breaks; she was the obvi-ous choice to write Vienna Day by Day.AcknowledgmentsTo Astrid Pockfuss at Wien Tourismus for patiently answering my endlessqueries; to my two sons, George and Timothy, for showing me how child-friendly and fun the city is by day, and to Carl for baby-sitting by night; andfinally to Mark, Jill and Hannah at Frommer’s for all their support and help.Ratings, Icons & AbbreviationsEvery hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has beenrankedforquality,value,service,amenities,andspecialfeaturesusingastar-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlifeare rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (excep-tional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a = icon topoint out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommendcafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break with a € sign toindicate price. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked witha coffee-cup-shaped bullet P.The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
  • 8. viiTravel Resources at Frommers.comFrommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website,www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destina-tions. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most currenttrip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bar-gains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.commembers through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, readblogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.Advisory & DisclaimerTravel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we stronglyadvise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, includinginformation on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommoda-tion, shopping, and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert whiletraveling and to remain aware of your surroundings. Avoid civil distur-bances, and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and othervaluables.While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained withinthis guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make norepresentations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or complete-ness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties,including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose.We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omis-sions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs or expenses of anynature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any adviceor information contained in this guide.The inclusion of a company, organization, or website in this guide as a ser-vice provider and/or potential source of further information does not meanthat we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware that infor-mation provided through some websites may be unreliable and can changewithout notice. Neither the publisher or author shall be liable for any dam-ages arising herefrom.How to Contact UsIn researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell usabout them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers inupcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’dlove to know that, too. Please e-mail: frommers@wiley.com or write to:Frommer’s Vienna Day by Day, 2nd EditionJohn Wiley & Sons, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
  • 9. 14 FavoriteMoments
  • 10. UUUUUURechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMargaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgassStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.WickenburggassEbendorferstr.Rathausstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.NEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskirchSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheateTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastKUNSTHALLEwienRechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.Margaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.WickenburggassEbendorferstr.Rathausstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.NEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskirchSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastKUNSTHALLEwien1243678101112131459Spanish Riding SchoolCafé SperlHofburgFiglmüllerPrater Ferris wheelGraben (a), Kohlmarkt (b)& Kärtnerstrasse (c)Vienna WoodsCafé SacherRingstrasseChristmas marketsSchönbrunn PalaceGürtel“Blue Danube”Musikverein732101111296b214 Favorite Moments14FavoriteMomentsPrevious page: Belvedere Gardens.
  • 11. UUUUUAmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.Argentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrasseLiebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.Singerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseWienMuseumHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergUniversität fürAngewandteKunstDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaKarls-kirchDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheSt. PeterSalesianer-klosterGardekircheAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brückeAmHeumarktAmStadtparktParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.Argentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrasseLiebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenG.-Keller-GasseSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseWienMuseumHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergUniversität fürAngewandteKunstDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaKarls-kircheDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheSt. PeterSalesianer-klosterGardekircheAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brücke1/4 mi00 0.25 km14513486c6aU-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterLibraryMuseumWalking PathU314FavoriteMoments
  • 12. 414FavoriteMomentscream); an Einspänner (mocha withwhipped cream); a Fiaker (mochawith brandy) . . . the list goes on.See The Best Dining, p 109.3 Wind back the clocks to impe-rial times at the Hofburg and see howthe 19th-century Habsburg EmpressSisi, darling of Viennese society, lived inthese grandiose palace apartments.Discover how all that glittered was notgold for Vienna’s “Princess Diana” fig-ure, whose tragic life came to anabrupt end in 1898. See p 29, 5.4 Tuck into what must be thelargest Wiener schnitzel in theworld at Figlmüller. This tiny,pseudo-rustique restaurant isalways crowded and a bit touristy.But who cares when the legendaryschnitzels are so big that they over-lap the plates? They taste prettygood too, washed down with aG’spritzter (white wine spritzer). Beprepared to queue. See p 10, 2.1 Admire the discipline and con-trol of the Spanish Riding School,as meticulously schooled Lipizzanerhorses strut and pirouette to waltzmusic. Nothing can match a full per-formance, but if you can’t get tickets,watch the informal morning exer-cises instead. Not all the classicmoves, such as the croupade, thelevade, or the capriole, are practicedevery day, but, if you’re lucky, youshould certainly witness some star-tling equine ballet. See p 44, 6.2 Crack the code of the coffeemenu at one of the city’s legend-ary Kaffeehäuser. Viennese coffeehouses range from basic, boho andnicotine-stained to the sophisticatedfin-de-siècle grandeur of my favor-ite, Café Sperl. Many have long lit-erary associations. Coffee-drinkingis virtually an art form in Vienna:choose a Melange (coffee withfrothy milk); a kleiner or grosserBrauner (large or small coffee withLike a catchy waltz tune, Vienna makes my heart beatfaster. Much more than Mozart and museums, this stately city isconstantly reinventing itself. Modern art and vibrant nightlife are asmuch part of the Vienna of today as the grand concert halls andbaroque architecture of its imperial heyday. Amid the pomp andsplendor of its stately parks and palaces drifts an air of romance andeasy living—a seductive charm at once relaxing yet compelling.Kids large and small love to ride the Riesenrad.
  • 13. 514FavoriteMomentscapture stunning views over Viennafrom the vine-striped hills. See TheGreat Outdoors, p 93.8 Forget the calories and enjoy“Kuchen mit Schlag.” Vienna iscake-and-whipped-cream heaven.It’s hard to stick to the straight andnarrow when confronted by a formi-dable choice of gooey gâteaux.Some of my favorite cakes are theones called Mozart, Esterhazy,Imperial, and Klimt. Then there’s adivine specialty known as Mohr imHemd (warm chocolate cake withfudge sauce) and of course theubiquitous Apfelstrudel (apple stru-del). If you can manage only onecake during your stay, make it thecity’s most famous indulgence—theirresistible chocolate Sachertortecreated at Café Sacher. See TheBest Dining, p 109.9 Take a tram-ride round theRingstrasse. Catch Tram numbers 1then 2 and travel a complete circuitof the epic boulevard surroundingthe medieval city, trundling past amonumental assortment of palaces,parliament buildings, and grandhotels. Captivating by day or bynight—when many of the edificesare spectacularly lit up. See TheRingstrasse tour, p 56.0 Soak up the magical atmo-sphere of the Christmas markets.Search for Christmas goodies, deco-rations, and expertly carved cribsamid a winter wonderland of twin-kling trees and snow-cappedwooden huts. After buying yourstocking-fillers, gather round thefireside for carols, Glühwein, andwarm gingerbread. The main Christ-mas market takes place at Rathaus-platz. See p 78, 7.! Get lost in the maze of theSchönbrunn Palace. Join the Vien-nese in one of their favorite pas-times—strolling in Schönbrunn’s5 Take photos from the top ofthe Prater Ferris wheel. Aerialviews of the city and the ViennaWoods beyond are especially entic-ing at sunset, when the city glows inmellow evening light and lampsbegin to twinkle. You can also relivethe key scene in Vienna’s cultmovie, The Third Man, when thetwo anti-heroes finally meet on thewheel. See p 99, 5.6 Indulge in some serious retailtherapy in the shops of Graben,Kohlmarkt, and Kärtnerstrasse.Take the pulse of the city’s youngfashion designers in the trendy Neu-bau district; gather home-furnishingideas at the MAK (the Museum ofApplied Arts) boutique; then shopfor a picnic at the bustling Nasch-markt, where the photogenic foodstalls are a feast for the senses. SeeThe Best Shopping, p 79.7 Stroll through the ViennaWoods and taste some localwines. Few of the world’s capitalsgrow wine within the city limits. Avisit to some of the cozy Heurigen(wine taverns) in the romantic wine-growing villages on Vienna’s out-skirts always makes an enjoyableexcursion. Take your camera toVienna’s vineyards are just a short tramride away.
  • 14. 614FavoriteMoments@ Party until the small hours atthe nightspots under the arches ofthe U6 U-Bahn tracks and Gürtelhighway. As the trains roll overhead,enjoy the latest sounds from interna-tional DJs and top bands, includingthe very best in “Viennese electron-ica.” End the night snacking on sau-sages from a streetside WienerWürstelstand. See The Gürtel PartyTour, p 132.# Swim in the not-so “Blue Dan-ube” and chill out on the beach.Yes . . . there really is a beach inVienna, and in summer it’s packedwith sunbathers, swimmers, andwatersports fanatics. If you’d ratherbe on the water than in it, take amini-cruise along the river. See TheGreat Outdoors, p 93.$ Pay homage to Vienna’s musi-cal Wunderkind. Visit Mozart’shouse and hear his works at the cele-brated Musikverein. Wherever yougo in Vienna, you’ll hear the strains ofclassical music emerging from openwindows. Besides Mozart, Viennawas home to Haydn, Beethoven,Schubert, the Strausses, and manyother musicians through the centu-ries. See p 41 and 13, $ & 7.magnificent formal gardens. Thismassive park is larger than the Princi-pality of Monaco. Don’t miss the zootucked in one corner with its adorabletwin polar bears and its pandas, andMaria Theresa’s grand apartmentsinside the palace. See p 106, 5.Tour the Ringstrasse on tram 1 or 2.Johann Strauss - the most celebrated statue in town.
  • 15. 1 The Best Full-DayTours
  • 16. UUUUUURechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.Margaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgassStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorferStrasseStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.WickenburggassEbendorferstr.Rathausstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseKettenbrücken-gasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionKUNSTHALLEwienHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.NEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskirchSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheateTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastRechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.Margaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgassStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorferStrasseStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.WickenburggassEbendorferstr.Rathausstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseKettenbrücken-gasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorKUNSTHALLEwienLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.NEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-Palast14375323836HofburgFiglmüllerStephansdomMozarthausMuseum für AngewandteKunst (MAK)Österreicher im MAKMusikvereinOnyx Bar18TheBestFull-DayToursThe Best in One DayPrevious page: Fiaker horses waiting for a ride.
  • 17. UUUUUAmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.Argentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePraterstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.Singerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseWienMuseumDom-U.Diözesan-MuseumHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergUniversität fürAngewandteKunstDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaKarls-kirchDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheSt. PeterSalesianer-klosterGardekircheAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brückeAmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.Argentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePraterstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenG.-Keller-GasseSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseWienMuseumDom-U.Diözesan-MuseumHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergUniversität fürAngewandteKunstDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaKarls-kirchDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheSt. PeterSalesianer-klosterGardekircheAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brücke7543383236U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterLibraryMuseumWalking PathU1/4 mi00 0.25 km9TheBestinOneDay
  • 18. 2★★★ =Figlmüller. Don’tmiss this cozy little restaurant,tucked down a narrow arcade. It’smuch visited by tourists and oftenvery crowded, but it reputedlyserves the biggest and best schnit-zels in Vienna, larger than a dinner-plate. These are traditionallyaccompanied by a mixed salad andwine from the owner’s own vineyardin Grinzing (p 102). Booking is essen-tial. Wollzeile 5. y 01 512 6177. €€.10TheBestFull-DayTourscomplex, make sure you don’t missthe Schatzkammer (Treasury, p 30), aglittering hoard of Habsburg jewelsamassed over more than a millen-nium, and the celebrated SpanischeReitschule (Spanish Riding School,p 44), where magnificent Lipizzanerstallions cavort to Viennese waltzmusic. @ 1–4 hr. Hofburg. www.hofburg-wien.at. U-Bahn 3 (Herren-gasse). See p 28–31, and p 44, 6.1 ★★★ Hofburg. Home to thepowerful Habsburg dynasty whichruled Austria for six centuries, thegrandiose Hofburg buildings are aremarkable long-term record of Vien-nese lifestyle and architecture. Don’tbe put off by the daunting tally of 18wings, 19 courtyards, and 2,600rooms. This rambling complex hasbeen neatly packaged into clusters ofmanageable attractions. The SisiMuseum vividly portrays the movinglife of Vienna’s beloved empress, Elis-abeth of Bavaria (1837–98). The Impe-rial Apartments include the study,waiting room, and audience room ofSisi’s husband, the Emperor FranzJoseph I (1848–1916). Sisi’s exerciseroom contains some surprisinglymodern gym apparatus. The Hof-burg’s first bathroom (which wasn’tinstalled until 1876) featured the lat-est rage—a linoleum floor, while itstiny tiled closet was considered thelast word in luxury at the time. Else-where within the vast HofburgWhere better to start exploring Vienna than at its historicheart? On this tour you can soak up the atmosphere of impe-rial Vienna; admire the Stephansdom (St. Stephen’s Cathedral andnational emblem of Austria); tuck into the finest schnitzels in town;and take a reverential peep inside Mozart’s only surviving Viennesehome . . . all in a single day. START: Hofburg (U-Bahn 3 Herrengasse).The Hofburg’s central courtyard.
  • 19. St John Capistrano rallied the people tocrusade in 1454 from this pulpit, to holdback the Muslim invasions of ChristianEurope.11TheBestinOneDaybells. The square in front of thecathedral was once a marketplace.Medieval measuring marks are stillvisible in the masonry by the mainwest entrance. Two are ancient mea-sures of length (the shorter “Bohe-mian” and the longer “Viennese” ell),while another indicates the correctsize for a loaf of bread. @ 1 hr; goearly on weekdays or during the eve-ning to avoid the tour groups. Stepha-nsplatz 3. y 01 515 52 3526. www.stephanskirche.at. Free admission.Mon–Sat 6am–10pm; Sun 7am–10pm.Elevator: daily 8:30am–4:30pm (July–Aug until 6pm). €4.50 adults, €1.50kids. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).4 ★★ =Mozarthaus. There’sno escaping Mozart’s associationwith Vienna—from Mozartkugelnchocolates to ticket touts dressed inhis typically flamboyant style. Of hisfourteen addresses across the city,only the Mozarthaus remains—amost desirable residence even inMozart’s time. On arrival in Vienna in1781, he wrote to his father, “This is amagnificent place here and the bestplace in the world for my profession.”He lived in this apartment from 1784to 1787. They were his happiest and3 ★★ Stephansdom. The Vien-nese affectionately call their majesticcathedral the “Steffl.” Dominating thecity center, its skeletal spire towers137m (450 ft) above the rooftops. Lit-erally and figuratively, it represents ahigh point in Viennese Gothic archi-tecture. The cathedral is now anational emblem. Its graceful pillarsand lofty ribbed vaulting weredescribed by architect Adolf Loos as“the most spiritual church interior inthe world.” Take the elevator (andyour camera) up the north tower forexceptional views of the city centerand the cathedral’s eye-catching yel-low, blue, and green rooftop, whichconsists of a quarter of a million bril-liantly glazed tiles. The Stephans-dom’s “Pummerin” (Boomer) bell isAustria’s largest and heaviest. It isused just once annually—to ring inthe New Year. Beethoven discoveredthe totality of his deafness when herealized he could no longer hear theThe view from Mozart’s window down‘Blood Alley’.
  • 20. 12TheBestFull-DayTourspossessions, the house vividly por-trays his life and times, throughperiod furnishings and musical mem-orabilia. @ 1 hr. Domgasse 5. y 01512 1791. www.mozarthausvienna.at.€9 adults, €7 concessions, €7 stu-dents, €3 kids under 14, €18 family (2adults, 3 kids under 15), €15/7 adults/kids for a combined ticket with Hausder Musik, see p 43; audio guides foradults and kids are included in theprice. Daily 10am–7pm. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz).5 ★★ Museum für Ange-wandte Kunst (MAK). TheApplied Arts Museum is one of Vien-na’s most eclectic museums, show-casing eight centuries of Austriandecorative arts and design. Trea-sures range from Renaissance jew-elry and Biedermeier furniture to theworld’s first fitted kitchen—theFrankfurter Küche (FrankfurtKitchen). The rooms are arranged inchronological order from the Gothicera to the present day. Highlightsinclude the Jugendstil (the Germanequivalent of the Art Nouveau move-ment) rooms, where the evolution ofchair design is cleverly shownthrough a series of shadow screenmost productive years, during whichhe composed countless chamberworks and his opera The Marriage ofFigaro. Here, Mozart’s careerreached its peak, but a taste for thehigh life, especially gambling, ruinedhim. Just four years later, he died apauper and was buried in a massgrave in St. Marx Cemetery. It’s wellworth getting an audio guide here(there’s a special one for kids too).Start at the top of the house andwork your way down. Although lack-ing any of the composer’s personalStained glass window in the Applied ArtsMuseum.The eccentric, reclusive, and beautiful Empress “Sisi” was bornElisabeth, Duchess of Bavaria, in 1837. At the tender age of 15, sheagreed to marry her cousin, Franz Joseph of Austria, and took upresidence in the Hofburg. Thrust unwillingly into the public eye, shehated imperial life and declined to fulfill the traditional roles ofempress, wife, and mother. Her eldest child died aged two, and herfourth child committed suicide in 1889 at age 31. She eventuallybecame estranged from her husband, wrote increasingly melan-cholic poetry, and traveled incessantly. In 1885 she wrote: “I am aseagull, of no land, I call no shore my home, I am bound to no place,I fly from wave to wave.” She was assassinated in Geneva in 1898 byan Italian anarchist, who later remarked: “I wanted to kill a royal. Itdid not matter which one.”Sisi—A Tragic Empress
  • 21. 6★★ Österreicher im MAK.This ultra-stylish, minimally fur-nished museum cafe with its elabo-rate coffered ceiling and bigwindows is the perfect venue for anearly evening meal. Resident chefHelmut Österreicher’s light, experi-mental cuisine offers a refreshingtwist on the usual Viennese reper-toire. If the weather’s fine, ask for atable in the garden. Stubenring 5.y 01 714 0121. €€.8★★ Onyx Bar. Enjoy a night-cap at this sleek rooftop bar in thecurvaceous, hi-tech Haas Hausbuilding (p 63). The cocktail menu isalmost as impressive as the photo-genic views of the Stephansdomsteeples. Stephansplatz 12. y 015353 9690. €€.13TheBestinOneDaysilhouettes, and the exquisite Artsand Crafts exhibits from the WienerWerkstätte (p 34). Allow time to visitthe museum shop, full of designobjects, arty gifts, and weird andwonderful gadgets and gizmos. @ 1hr. The museum gets very crowdedon Sat, when admission is free.Stubenring 5. y 01 711 36-0. www.mak.at. €7.90 adults, €5.50 conces-sions, free under 19, €6.30 withVienna Card, €11 family ticket. Tues10am–midnight; Wed–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor).Musikverein façade.city’s most prestigious classicalmusic venue. Each year, the sump-tuously decorated Golden Hallhosts Vienna’s celebrated NewYear’s Day concert, performed byits world-famous resident orches-tra, the Vienna Philharmonic. Anawe-inspiring roll-call of formerconcert directors includesJohannes Brahms, Herbert vonKarajan and, more recently, Leon-ard Bernstein, Claudio Abbado andRiccardo Muti. The building itself,designed by Theophil Hansen inGreek Renaissance style, with lav-ish use of terracotta capitals, balus-trades, and gilded statuary, wasopened in 1870 for the VienneseSociety of Friends of Music. Bösen-dorferstrasse 12. y 01 505 8190.www.musikverein.at. Tickets €6(standing room)–€85. U-Bahn 1/2/4(Karlsplatz).7 ★★ Musikverein. If you onlygo to one concert in Vienna, makesure it’s at the Musikverein—the
  • 22. UUUUUURechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.Margaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorfer StrasseStiftgasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.WickenburggassEbendorferstr.Rathausstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannKUNSTHALLEwienHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskirchSt.MichaelerAugustinerkircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastRechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.Margaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorfer StrasseStiftgasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.WickenburggassEbendorferstr.Rathausstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannKUNSTHALLEwienHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt.MichaelerAugustinerkircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-Palast986543714265893337Wien MuseumKarlskircheCafé MuseumSecession BuildingNaschmarktMuseumsQuartier WienPicnic lunch in BurggartenKunsthistorischesMuseum (KHM)Staatsoper14TheBestFull-DayToursThe Best in Two Days
  • 23. UUUUUAmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstrassArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePraterstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenG.-Keller-GasseSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterGardekircheAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brückeAmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstrassArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePraterstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenG.-Keller-GasseSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterSalesianer-klosterGardekircheAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brücke1/4 mi00 0.25 km2133U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterLibraryMuseumWalking PathU15TheBestinTwoDays
  • 24. 3Café Museum. Enjoy coffeeand cake whilst watching the worldgo by from the sunny sidewalk ter-race of this classic Viennese cafe,once frequented by artists Klimt,Kokoschka, and Schiele. Friedrich-strasse 6/Operngasse. y 01 24100620. €–€€€.16TheBestFull-DayToursstyle, and deserves a close lookboth inside and out. Commissionedby Emperor Karl VI for the citizens ofVienna, this architectural master-piece served to assert the Habsburgclaim to European supremacy afterthe Siege of Vienna in 1683, whenthe Turks were finally driven from theempire. See p 67, 5.1 ★★ Wien Museum. Don’t letthe ugly exterior of the ViennaMuseum put you off. Inside, threefloors trace the history of the cityfrom the Neolithic Age to the mid-20th century, illustrated by some ofits finest treasures. My favoriteexhibits are the early maps andlarge-scale models of Vienna, show-ing vividly how the city has grownover the centuries. A clear overviewof Vienna’s eventful past makesexploring the city infinitely morerewarding. @ 1 hr. Karlsplatz. y 01505 8747-0. www.wienmuseum.at.€6 adults, €4 concessions, €3 stu-dents, free under 19 and first Sun ofeach month. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).2 ★★ Karlskirche. This church isone of the most accomplishedexamples of the European baroqueOn your second day, you will start to get under the skin ofthe city. This tour unveils more of Vienna’s remarkable historyand dazzling art treasures, with a relaxing interlude to soak up theatmosphere and flavors of the Naschmarkt (Vienna’s most colorfulmarket). Some of the world’s finest museums and art galleries awaityou after a snack or picnic lunch in the park. In the evening, a visit tothe opera rounds off a perfect day. START: Wien Museum (U-Bahn1/2/4 Karlsplatz).Karlskirche’s imposing dome dominatesthe skyline.4 ★★★ Secession Building.This unusual white block was cre-ated in 1898 by Otto Wagner’s stu-dent, Joseph Maria Olbrich, as a“Temple of Art”—a celebration ofthe Secessionist artistic move-ment—reflecting the fluid, func-tional yet decorative style of a newgeneration of artists (led by GustavKlimt) who rebelled against themeaningless excesses of Vienneseornamentation. An inscriptionabove the door proclaims “Der Zeitihre Kunst, der Kunst ihre Freiheit”(“To the age, its own art; to art, itsown freedom”). Garlands and floralpatterns adorn the facade, while theentrance is decorated with a goldentree and the heads of the three Gor-gons (representing architecture,sculpture, and painting). The
  • 25. 17TheBestinTwoDaysplatters of oysters. The Karlsplatzend tends to have the smartest (andmost expensive) Viennese-run stalls,along with luxury delicatessens andelegant pavement cafes. The lessformal multi-ethnic section sellsexotic produce and spices from allover the world. Farther west (nearKettenbrückengasse), a popularfarmers’ market takes place on Fri-days and Saturdays (Mar–Oct), anda Saturday morning flea markethawks a motley array of antiques,clothing, and bric-a-brac to bargainhunters. @ 1 hr. Naschmarkt. Stalls:Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 6am–1pm.Snack bars: times vary, some openuntil 10 or 11pm, closed Sun. U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz) or U-Bahn 4(Kettenbrückengasse).crowning glory, however, is a domeof gilded laurel leaves—supposedlysymbolizing the interdependence ofart and nature—which has earnedthe Secession Building the affection-ate nickname the “Golden Cab-bage.” The airy interior remains trueto its original purpose, hosting exhi-bitions of contemporary art. In thebasement, Klimt’s Beethoven friezeis essential viewing (p 33, 3). @ 30min. Friedrichstrasse 12. y 01 5875307. www.secession.at. €8.50adults, €5 concessions, free under10. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; guidedtours (in German) Sat 3pm, Sun11am. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).5 ★★★ =Naschmarkt. Thecolorful Naschmarkt is Vienna’s larg-est and liveliest market, a perfectplace to look for picnic provisions.Mouth-watering displays of seasonalproduce—fruit, vegetables, flowers,fish, cheese, and wine—give visitorsan extraordinary culinary touraround the world; the more far-reaching the further you delve. Itstands in the valley of the RiverWien, a site once occupied by medi-eval vineyards and an 18th-centurymilk market. Traditional woodenstalls lend it an old-fashioned air. Ithas a dazzling choice of eateries tosuit all tastes and budgets, rangingfrom the snack bars which kick-startmarket traders with early-morningcaffeine shots to seafood brasseriesthat seduce city sophisticates withTempting cakes on display at Café Museum.The produce at the Naschmarkt drawscrowds of shoppers daily.
  • 26. 7★ =Picnic lunch in Burg-garten. Join Mozart, Goethe, andother sculpted luminaries in thisshady park (p 58, 2) and tuck in toyour Naschmarkt picnic, or snatch asausage with crusty bread and a dol-lop of mustard from the WienerWürstelstand by the main entranceto the park. Burgring, oppositeEschenbachgasse. No phone. €.18TheBestFull-DayTours8 ★★★ KunsthistorischesMuseum (KHM). Vienna’s superla-tive Museum of Fine Arts occupies amonumental Renaissance-style build-ing on the Ringstrasse. It contains theImperial collection assembled overcenturies by the Habsburgs, whowere keen patrons and avid collectorsof art. It’s a staggering haul of trea-sures from all around the globe, dis-played in room after room on threefloors. There’s far too much to seeproperly in a single visit, but try atleast to view the Old Masters in theGemäldegalerie (Picture Gallery). @ 2hr. Maria-Theresien-Platz. y 01 525240. www.khm.at. €12 adults, €9concessions, free under 19 (ticketsalso valid for the Neue Burg, p 60).Sept–May Tues–Sun 10am–6pm(Thurs until 9pm); June–Aug daily10am–6pm. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).9 ★★★ Staatsoper. The StateOpera holds a special place in thehearts of the Viennese, and is rec-ognized by music-lovers everywhereas one of the world’s most illustri-ous opera houses. You can visit theinterior, with its grand staircase andplush red-and-gold auditorium, on aguided tour. Even if you wouldn’tnormally consider seeing an opera,you may well be lured by the glitzand glamour of the Staatsoper. If6 ★★★ =MuseumsQuartierWien. Built as “an urban culturaloasis” and housed within former rid-ing stables dating from baroquetimes, this huge museum complex isone of the great success stories ofcontemporary Vienna. Several artgalleries surround a vast centralcourtyard. The Leopold Museumcontains Austrian art from the 19thand 20th centuries; MUMOK is thenation’s largest modern-art museum;and the Kunsthalle stages temporaryart exhibitions. Add to this an archi-tecture center, a kids’ museum, anda cluster of shops, open-air restau-rants, cafes, and bars, and you haveone of the most popular cultural ven-ues in town for locals and visitors(p 74). @ 1–6 hr. Museumsplatz 1.y 01 523 5881. www.mqw.at.U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier).Egyptian friezes adorn the walls of the KHM.
  • 27. 19TheBestinTwoDays8A8B8D8E 8F8CStairsFood & DrinkGift ShopInformationRest RoomsKunsthistorisches Museum (KHM)SECONDFLOORTHIRDFLOORFIRSTFLOORStart in the _ Ancient Egyptiancollection, to see the mummies(Room I), Ka-Ni-Nisut’s ancient tomb(Room II), the statue of King Thutmo-sis III, and a charming blue ceramichippopotamus (both Room IX). In+ Greek and Roman Antiqui-ties, look out for the impressive 2nd-century mosaic of Theseus and theMinotaur (Room XII), exquisiteRoman cameos (Room XVI), and raretextiles (Room XVIII). The picture gal-lery upstairs represents all the majorschools of European art and manyof the world’s greatest artists too.{ German, Flemish, andDutch paintings include Brueghelthe Elder’s The Seasons cycle(Room X), Dürer’s Madonna withthe Pear (Room 16), Rembrandt’sLarge Self-Portrait (Room 21), andVermeer’s The Art of Painting(Room 22). } Italian and Span-ish paintings feature Archimbol-do’s extraordinary Seasons andElements paintings (Room 7), andVelázquez’s portrait of the eight-year-old Infanta Margarita Teresain Blue Dress (Room 10), who mar-ried Leopold I just seven years later.The paintings of early 18th-centuryimperial palaces and Viennese viewsby Canaletto’s nephew Bellotto com-missioned for the Empress MariaTheresa (Room VII) are especiallyfascinating. The top floor containsone of the world’s most extensive| coin collections and over1,000 : miniature portraits col-lected by Emperor Ferdinand II.you are tempted, try to makeMozart your first performance.@ 40 min tour (start times vary butare usually advertised on a board atthe entrance). Opernring 2. y 01514-44 7810 (box office). www.staatsoper.at. Tram 1/2/D (Oper).
  • 28. UUUUUUUOberDonaustr.ParkringKärntner RingSchubertringSchottenringWollzeileTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseBerggasseZelinkagasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseHeinrichsgasseWerdertorgasseBörsegasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseNaglergasseBognergasseRenngasseFärbergasseSeitergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseTaborstr.TaborstrasseKleine PfarrgasseSchiffamts-gasseGrossePfarrgasseSchiffgasseKleine SperlgasseGr.SperlgasseHaidgasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.MalzgasseKrummbaum-gasseSchreygasseFranz-Hochedlinger-GasseWallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseCobdengasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.FlossgasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarktTuchlaubenOpernringFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringTandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseImWerdAmHofTieferGrabenDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.GriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseKarmelitergasseLeopoldsgasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseBräunerstr.Dom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausAlbertinaHoherMarktAltesRathausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderZumheiligenJosefJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzKarmeliter-platzStephans-platzDeutsch-meister-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzBörse-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkWilhelmkienzl-ParkHOFBURGSTEPHANS-PLATZHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGSCHWEDEN-PLATZTABOR-STR.STUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterStaatsoperKammer-spieleKammer-operAugarten-brückeRossauerBrückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeOberDonaustr.ParkringKärntner RingSchubertringSchottenringWollzeileTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseBerggasseZelinkagasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseHeinrichsgasseWerdertorgasseBörsegasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseNaglergasseBognergasseRenngasseFärbergasseSeitergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseTaborstr.TaborstrasseKleine PfarrgasseSchiffamts-gasseGrossePfarrgasseSchiffgasseKleine SperlgasseGr.SperlgasseHaidgasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.MalzgasseKrummbaum-gasseSchreygasseFranz-Hochedlinger-GasseWallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseCobdengasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.FlossgasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarktTuchlaubenOpernringFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringTandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseImWerdAmHofTieferGrabenDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.GriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseKarmelitergasseLeopoldsgasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseBräunerstr.Dom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausAlbertinaHoherMarktAltesRathausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderZumheiligenJosefJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzKarmeliter-platzStephans-platzDeutsch-meister-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzBörse-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkWilhelmkienzl-ParkHOFBURGSTEPHANS-PLATZHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGSCHWEDEN-PLATZTABOR-STR.STUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterStaatsoperKammer-spieleKammer-operAugarten-brückeRossauerBrückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brücke7620TheBestFull-DayToursThe Best in Three Days
  • 29. UUUUDonaukanalWien-nordPratersternAmHeumarktAmStadtparktSchüttelstrasseHeinestr.Weiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseNovaragasseAfrikanergasseZirkusgasseBlumauergasseGross StadtgutgasseGlockengasseMayergasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgasse Praterstr.ZirkusgasseRotensterngasseSportklubstrasseCzerningasseLaufberger-gasseStoffelagasseLichtenauergasseVivariumstrasseMarxergasseSeidlgasseSeidlgasseHetz-gasseKolonitzgasseKollergasseBechardgasseKegelgasseOberViaduktgasseWeyrgasseUnterViaduktgasseGeusaugasseBlattgasseLöwengasseMarxergasseLöwengasseRadetzkystr.Obere Weissgerberstr.BeatrixgasseUnterViaduktgassegasseAspernbrückgasseInvalidenstr.AdamsgasseKübeckgasseHörnesgasseBlütengasseUnterWeissgerberstr.ParkgasseKundmanngasseErdbergstr.HetzgasseKegelgasseKrieglergasseRadetzkystr.HiessgasseSchallautzerStr.HauptalleeTempelgasseLandstrasser Hauptstr.Baumannstr.ReisnerStr.HintereZollamtsstr.WeissgerberländeFranzensbrückenstr.GeusaugasseDampfschiffstrasseUntere DonaustrasseJ. StraussMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)St. ElisabethKrankenhausUniversität fürAngewandteKunstOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzEste-platzKolonitz-platzR.-V.-Alt-PlatzOswald-Thomas-PlatzRadetzky-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzAnton-Weber-PlatzHerrmann-ParkVenedigerAuLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEPRATER-STERNNESTROYPLATZROCHUSGASSESt. OthmarPrater-museumSt. RochusAspern-brückeFranzens-brückeDonaukanalWien-nordPratersternAmHeumarktAmStadtparktSchüttelstrasseHeinestr.Weiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseNovaragasseAfrikanergasseZirkusgasseBlumauergasseGross StadtgutgasseGlockengasseMayergasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgasse Praterstr.ZirkusgasseRotensterngasseSportklubstrasseCzerningasseLaufberger-gasseStoffelagasseLichtenauergasseVivariumstrasseMarxergasseSeidlgasseSeidlgasseHetz-gasseKolonitzgasseKollergasseBechardgasseKegelgasseOberViaduktgasseWeyrgasseUnterViaduktgasseGeusaugasseBlattgasseLöwengasseMarxergasseLöwengasseRadetzkystr.Obere Weissgerberstr.BeatrixgasseUnterViaduktgassegasseAspernbrückgasseInvalidenstr.AdamsgasseKübeckgasseHörnesgasseBlütengasseUnterWeissgerberstr.ParkgasseKundmanngasseErdbergstr.HetzgasseKegelgasseKrieglergasseRadetzkystr.HiessgasseSchallautzerStr.HauptalleeTempelgasseLandstrasser Hauptstr.Baumannstr.ReisnerStr.HintereZollamtsstr.WeissgerberländeFranzensbrückenstr.GeusaugasseDampfschiffstrasseUntere DonaustrasseJ. StraussMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)St. ElisabethKrankenhausUniversität fürAngewandteKunstOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzEste-platzKolonitz-platzR.-V.-Alt-PlatzOswald-Thomas-PlatzRadetzky-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzAnton-Weber-PlatzHerrmann-ParkVenedigerAuLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEPRATER-STERNNESTROYPLATZROCHUSGASSESt. OthmarPrater-museumSt. RochusAspern-brückeFranzens-brücke1/4 mi00 0.25 km14236735Prater (Riesenrad)Danube Canal CruiseHundertwasserhausKunstHausWienKunstHausWien CaféSchönbrunn Palace & ParkSchönbrunn Zoo432135U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterHospitalMuseumWalking PathU21TheBestinThreeDays
  • 30. 22TheBestFull-DayToursstraight lines (even inside), and tree-clad roof, this building stands outamong the dull Austro-Hungarianempire architecture that surroundsit. Designed by Austrian artist, Frie-densreich Hundertwasser in 1986 asa public housing complex, it pro-voked fierce debate among theViennese who described it as “anunbearable display of new-moneypomposity.” Now it is a much lovedpart of the Viennese cityscape.Löwengasse/corner of Kegelgasse.www.hundertwasserhaus.at. Tram 1(Hetzgasse).4 ★★★ =KunstHausWien.Just round the corner from the Hun-dertwasserhaus is one of my favoritemuseums—the KunstHausWien. Thisis not your usual museum experiencebut rather an adventure in architec-ture, and the chance to experiencethe extraordinary range of Hundert-wasser’s creative genius, which1 ★★★ =Prater (Riesenrad).See p 99, 5.2 ★★ =Danube CanalCruise. The Danube, Vienna’s life-blood since Roman times, waspartly canalized at the end of the19th century to reduce flooding inthe built-up areas of the city. A mini-cruise provides an entirely new per-spective of the city. The DDSG (BlueDanube Shipping Company) offers a1½-hour trip on the canal, whichstarts from the Schiffstation Wien/City at Schwedenplatz, and passessome of Vienna’s lesser known butnonetheless intriguing sights.3 ★★ =Hundertwasser-haus. You can’t fail to spot theHundertwasserhaus! With its vividlycolored patchwork facade, gleaminggold onion-domes, distinct lack ofAfter two days of art, architecture, history, and culture,today’s trip takes in some of the city’s best-loved attrac-tions, including the famous Prater Riesenrad (Ferris wheel), someeccentric modern architecture, the city zoo, and Schönbrunn, themost-visited palace in Austria. It requires an early start and a bit ofstamina but you will be well rewarded for your efforts. Don’t forgetyour camera! START: Prater (U-Bahn 1/2 Praterstern).The Prater amusement park—fun for allthe family.See the sights by boat.
  • 31. 23TheBestinThreeDaysA23A23A4A4A22UU UUUU UUUUUUUUUUDonauNeueDonauSüdbahnhofAmHeumarktLandstrasser GürtelRennwegSchüttelstrasseHeinestr.Prinz-Eugen-StrasseAusstellungsstrasseLasallestrasseLandstrasserHauptstr.HauptalleeSchweizerGartenBelvedere-GartenAugartenPraterLANDSTRASSE3.LANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZPRATER-STERNNESTROYPLATZTABOR-STR.STUBENTORSTADTPARKROCHUSGASSEKARDINAL-NAGL-PLATZVORGARTENSTRASSESCHLACHTHAUS-GASSEERDBERGGASOMETERMESSE PRATERKRIEAUSTADIONDonauinselErnst-HappelStadionDonauNeueDonauSüdbahnhofAmHeumarktLandstrasser GürtelRennwegSchüttelstrasseHeinestr.Prinz-Eugen-StrasseAusstellungsstrasseLasallestrasseLandstrasserHauptstr.HauptalleeSchweizerGartenBelvedere-GartenAugartenPraterLANDSTRASSE3.LANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZPRATER-STERNNESTROYPLATZTABOR-STR.STUBENTORSTADTPARKROCHUSGASSEKARDINAL-NAGL-PLATZVORGARTENSTRASSESCHLACHTHAUS-GASSEERDBERGGASOMETERMESSE PRATERKRIEAUSTADIONDonauinselErnst-HappelStadionDanube Canal Cruise 2E2A 2B2C2D1/2 mi00 0.5 kmThe first eye-catching sight onthis tour is the cupola of thej ★ Sternwarte Urania. Builtin 1910, this is Austria’s oldestastronomical observatory and alsocontains a cinema, puppet theater,and a cafe with superb canal vistas.Farther east, look out for glimpsesof the k ★★★ KunstHausWien(p 22, 4), designed by Vienna’sradical architect, Hundertwasser.Beyond lies a curious structureknown as the l ★ Gasometer.These four rotund brick towerswere used to store the city’s gassupply from 1899 to 1969. In the1990s, they were converted into615 apartments, a vast shoppingcenter, and leisure complex. As youpass through the massive Freude-nau lock and on to the NewDanube, you’ll see the gravelbeaches of the Donauinsel (DanubeIsland) to your right and them Prater park (p 96) on your left.Keep an eye open for three Praterlandmarks: the Buddhist pagoda;the Ernst Happel Stadium (venue ofthe Euro 2008 football tournament);and the Riesenrad (p 99, 5). Thetour ends at the Reichsbrücke, abridge near Mexikoplatz. Themost prominent building on thissquare is the multi-turretedn Franz-von-Assisi-Kirche,built in 1898 by Emperor FranzJoseph I to commemorate hisgolden anniversary. DDSG Informa-tion Desk, Handelskai 265. y 0158880. www.ddsg-blue-danube.at.U-Bahn 1 (Vorgartenstrasse).
  • 32. 5★★★ =KunstHausWienCafé. As you might expect fromHundertwasser, this cafe is innova-tive and informal, with a delightfulshaded patio area. Its simple menuincludes a good choice of vegetar-ian dishes. Untere Weissgerber-strasse 13. y 01 713 8620. €–€€.24TheBestFull-DayTourscontrasting with black and gold;shiny, irregularly shaped pillars; aroof garden; and no straight lines(even the floor is uneven). When itwas created in 1989, criticsdescribed it as “tasteless,” resem-bling “a half-melted slab of liquorice.”Come and see what you think.@ 1 hr. Morning is the quietest timeto visit, avoid Sat–Sun if possible.Untere Weissgerberstrasse 13.y 01 712 0495. www.kunsthauswien.com. €9 adults, €7 concessions,€4.50 kids (11–18), free under 11.Daily 10am–7pm. Tram 1/O(Radetzkyplatz).encompassed art, graphics, models,tapestry, kites, sculpture, even post-age stamps. His brightly coloredpaintings are as distinctive as hisarchitectural constructions. Thebuilding (a converted furniture fac-tory) features all the artist’s charac-teristic trademarks—vivid colorsWhen the flamboyant Friedensreich Hundertwasser (1928–2000)left the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts in 1948 after just three months ofstudy, it seemed unlikely that he would become one of Austria’s mostcelebrated (albeit controversial) artist-designers. He felt that designwas stagnant (“our real illiteracy is our inability to create”) and in aneffort similar to the Secessionist movement 100 years previously, hestrove to find harmony between nature and the creativity of man. Hisstyle frequently reflected two of his beliefs in particular: that “thestraight line is alien to mankind” and “our whole life proceeds in spi-rals.” He made his mark on Vienna with the Hundertwasserhaus, theKunstHausWien, and one of Vienna’s oddest tourist attractions—theFernwärme—Europe’s brightest municipal rubbish incinerator out atSpittelau (U-Bahn 4/6 Spittelau).HundertwasserKunstHausWien, designed by theundeniably eccentric FriedensreichHundertwasser.6 ★★★ =SchönbrunnPalace & Park. See p 106.7 ★★ =Schönbrunn Zoo.See p 108, 7.
  • 33. 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours
  • 34. 26TheBestSpecial-InterestToursUUUDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.HerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburgergasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseVolksgartenstr.Bellariastr.Grillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.Wallnerstr.Löwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölkerBasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheergasseFriedrichstr.Bräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteBurgtorZoomDschungelKunst-HalleTheseus-TempelMoyaSecessionSt.MichaelerSchottenstiftMinoriten-kircheBurgtheateStaatsoperKunstForumParlamentHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzMinoriten-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGHERREN-GASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.HerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburgergasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseVolksgartenstr.Bellariastr.Grillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.Wallnerstr.Löwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölkerBasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheergasseFriedrichstr.Bräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteBurgtorZoomDschungelKunst-HalleTheseus-TempelMoyaSecessionSt.MichaelerSchottenstiftMinoriten-kircheBurgtheaterStaatsoperKunstForumParlamentHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzMinoriten-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGHERREN-GASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZ98765421121133310U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterLibraryMuseumWalking PathU1/8 mi00 0.125 kmImperial ViennaPrevious page: Borromeo—the patron saint of Karlskirche.
  • 35. 27ImperialViennaUUUUAmHeumarktParkringKärntner RingSchubertringWollzeileMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Liebenberg-gasseCobdengasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseÖlzeJohannesgasseSingerstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenFleischmarkLugeckGrabenBGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseTaborstr.Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterAkademie-th tKammer-spieleKammer-operDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJuden-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkSTEPHANS-PLATZSCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTASchweden-brückeMarien-brückeAmHeumarktParkringKärntner RingSchubertringWollzeileMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Liebenberg-gasseCobdengasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseÖlzeJohannesgasseSingerstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenFleischmarktLugeckGrabenBGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseTaborstr.Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterAkademie-th tKammer-spieleKammer-operDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJuden-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkSTEPHANS-PLATZSCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTASchweden-brückeMarien-brücke14267111258933310MichaelerplatzSpanish Riding SchoolDemelSilberkammerImperial Apartments &Sisi MuseumSchweizerhof (Swiss Court)JosefsplatzAugustinerkirchePalais AlbertinaPalmenhausNeue BurgVolksgarten
  • 36. 3 Demel. This charming cafe andcake shop named after the imperialconfectioner was founded in 1786.For centuries it has drawn wealthyViennese shoppers to its mirroredand gilded interior for exquisitecoffee, cakes, and confectionery,including Empress Sisi’s favorite,sugared violets. Kohlmarkt 14.y 01 535 1717-0. €€.28TheBestSpecial-InterestToursKohlmarkt. The Michaelerkircheopposite, was once the parishchurch of the Imperial Court(p 55, 7). Also in the square,Loos Haus (designed by Adolf Loos)broke architectural boundaries in1912 with its functional design andunadorned green marble facade(p 35, 7).2 ★★★ =Spanish RidingSchool. See p 44, 6.1 ★ Michaelerplatz. Layer uponlayer of history has been unearthedin Michaelerplatz—the monumentalsquare adjacent to the Hofburg—and Roman remains and medievalfoundations have been excavated atits center. Then there’s the grandlycolonnaded Michaelertrakt (St.Michael’s Wing) and Michaelertor(St. Michael’s Gate) entrances to theHofburg, both added by EmperorFranz Joseph in 1893. The fountainson the outer limits of the main gate-way (see below) symbolize Habsburgpower both on land and at sea. Thegigantic copper-clad cupola abovethe Michaelertor looks especiallystriking (and photogenic) fromThe Hofburg, residence of the mighty Habsburg dynastyfor over 600 years, should be on every visitor’s itinerary. Origi-nally a medieval castle, it was extended by each successive emperorto demonstrate the power and riches of the Habsburgs, until it effec-tively became a “city within a city.” The resulting labyrinthine com-plex, and the astounding treasures within it, established Vienna’sreputation worldwide as a place of unrivalled elegance, wealth, andsplendor. START: Michaelerplatz (U-Bahn 3 Herrengasse).Mastery of the Seas sculpture inMichaelerplatz.4 ★★ Silberkammer. The Impe-rial Silver Collection is a dazzlingarray of priceless tableware in glass,silver, and porcelain. Some of theseprecious pieces are still used todayfor state banquets. The Grand Ver-meil dinner service (Room 7), con-taining 4,500 pieces, is one of theworld’s largest silver-gilt services.Porcelain highlights include theflower plates of keen botanist,Emperor Franz II (Room D); theHunting Lodge porcelain given toFranz Joseph by Sisi in 1870 (Room6); floral baroque Meissen, Minton,and Sèvres porcelain services
  • 37. 29ImperialViennatravel, poetry, and sport, as well asher obsession with beauty and diet.Among her favorite beauty treat-ments were a leather facemasklined with raw veal and worn over-night, and a recipe for egg yolk andcognac shampoo with which towash her floor-length hair, a processthat took all day. From her early thir-ties onwards she refused to allowher portrait to be painted, so thatshe would always be rememberedas a great beauty. @ 1 hr; visit earlyto avoid the crowds. Hofburg. y 01533 7570. www.hofburg-wien.at.€10.50 adults, €9.50 concessions,€6.50 kids (6–18), audio guidesavailable free of charge. Ticket priceincludes the Silberkammer. Daily9am–5:30pm (July–Aug until 6pm);kids’ tours: 10:30am, 2:30pm Sat–Sun and public holidays. U-Bahn 3(Herrengasse).6 ★★★ =Schweizerhof(Swiss Court). The oldest part ofthe Hofburg, the Swiss Court, wasoriginally a 13th-century fortresscomplete with a moat and draw-bridge, built by King Ottokar of(Rooms H and J); and 60 pictorialplates from the Viennese Manufac-tory (Room 23), decorated with localscenes, including Schönbrunn, Bel-vedere, and Prater. @ 45 min;arrive before opening time to beatthe crowds in high season. Hofburg.y 01 533 7570. www.hofburg-wien.at. €10.50 adults, €9.50 conces-sions, €6.50 kids (6–18), audioguides available free of charge.Ticket price includes the ImperialApartments and Sisi Museum. Daily9am–5:30pm (July–Aug until 6pm).U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).5 ★★★ =Imperial Apart-ments & Sisi Museum. TheImperial Palace accommodated theHabsburg royals for over six centu-ries (1282–1918), during which timethe Hofburg complex developedinto one of the great power-housesof Europe. The first six rooms formthe Sisi Museum, where a host ofartifacts (poems, recipes, dresses,toiletries, portraits, jewelry, and soforth) offer a fascinating insight intothe tragic empress’s private life.Some items reveal her passions forTraditional costumes on display in Franz Josef’s waiting room.
  • 38. 30TheBestSpecial-InterestToursVienna’s finest Renaissance con-structions, into the ancient court-yard. The Gothic Burgkapelle(Castle Chapel), up the steps to yourright, was restored in baroque stylein the 17th and 18th centuries. Massis famously performed here everySunday (except July–Sept) by theWiener Sängerknaben (ViennaBoys’ Choir, p 140). The sparklingSchatzkammer (Treasury), whoseentrance is beneath the chapel, isone of the world’s most impressivenational collections, containing abreathtaking hoard of jewels,crowns, and sacred relics spanning1,000 years of both the Habsburgand the Holy Roman empires.@ Schatzkammer: 45 min. Schweiz-erhof, Hofburg. y 01 525 24-0.www.khm.at, www.hofburgkapelle.at. €12 adults, €9 concessions, freeunder 19, €11 Vienna Card, €4audio guide. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm(May–Oct from 9:30am). Chapel:€1.50. Open Mon–Thurs 11am–3pm; Fri 11am–1pm. U-Bahn 3(Herrengasse).Bohemia to defend himself againstRudolf von Habsburg. He failed, andthe Habsburgs moved in. The namerecalls the Swiss Guards who wereonce posted here. Enter through thestriking red, black, and gold Sch-weizertor (Swiss Gate), one ofThe mighty equestrian statue of Franz Josef dominates the entrance to thePalais Albertina.The grandiose Prunksaal once housedthe Imperial Library.
  • 39. 0★★ Palmenhaus. You’ll lovethe Jugendstil Palmenhaus (GlassHouse) brasserie in the formerImperial Garden. It is a stylish set-ting for lunch, serving deliciousViennese and Mediterranean dishesand fine wines. Burggarten. y 01533 1033. Tram 1/2/D (Burgring).€€–€€€.31ImperialVienna! ★ Neue Burg. See p 60, 5.@ ★ Volksgarten. This breath-taking garden between Heldenplatz(p 47, 5) and the Burgtheater(p 60, 8) is surely Vienna’s mostromantic, famed for its beautifulroses (each carefully labeled) and itsTheseus temple, built for Sisi in1822 as a gift from her husband,Franz Joseph. @ 30 min. Tram 1/2/D(Dr-Karl-Renner-Ring).7 ★ Josefsplatz. An equestrianstatue of Emperor Joseph II marksthe center of this sun-bakedsquare, once used as a trainingground for the Spanish RidingSchool. It is flanked by two fine pal-aces, the Renaissance Stallburg(stables) and the Prunksaal (StateHall). This magnificent building is agem of baroque architecture,decked with marble statuary, nut-wood bookcases, and lavish fres-coes. Once the Imperial Library, itremains the largest room of its kindin Europe, and contains a majorpart of the National Library’s exten-sive collection of manuscripts,maps, books, and music scores.@ 20 min. Prunksaal, Josefsplatz 1.www.onb.ac.at. €7 adults, €4.50concessions. Guided tour byappointment (y 01 534 10-464).Tues–Sun 10am–6pm (Thurs until9pm). U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).8 ★ Augustinerkirche. See BestChurches p 55, 5.9 ★★ Palais Albertina. One ofthe world’s finest collections ofgraphic art is housed in the Alber-tina Palace at the southern end ofthe Hofburg. Named after DukeAlbert of Saxony-Teschen, it con-tains around a million etchings,engravings, and lithographs; over65,000 watercolors and drawings;and some 70,000 photographs.Due to the collection’s sheer vol-ume—it features virtually everymajor artist from the 15th centuryto the present day—it is displayedin temporary exhibitions in themagnificent neoclassical HabsburgState Rooms. The sections span-ning Impressionism to ClassicalModernism, and Contemporary Artare especially impressive. @ 1 hr;quietest at lunchtime. Albertina-platz 1. y 01 534 83-0. www.albertina.at. €9.50 adults, €8Dine in the emperors’ greenhouse—thePalmenhaus.concessions, €7 students, freeunder 19. Daily 10am–7pm (Weduntil 9pm). U-Bahn 1/2/4(Karlsplatz).
  • 40. 32TheBestSpecial-InterestToursJugendstil ViennaUUUUUUUUAmHeumarktRechteWienzeileAmStadtparktParkringKärntnerRingHauptstr.OperngasseSchubertringDr.-K.- RennerRingMuseumstr.WollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.NeulinggasseVordereZollamtsstrasseLinkeWienzeileHerrengasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.KarlsgasseGusshausstrasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorferStrasseBreite GasseKirchberggasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.DoblhoffgasseSeidlgasseLiebenberg-gasseBechardgasseCobden-gasseRosenbursen-strasseMarxergasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseTongasseVeithgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseSalesianergasseSingerstr.BeatrixgasseLöwelstr.Invalidenstr.Lisztstr.Linke BahngassRechte BahngassNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteKohlmarktBurgringOpernringGrabenBiberstr. StubenringSchallautzerStr.GetreidemarktResselparkDorotheergasseAugustiner Str.WeihburggasseeMariahilferStrasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseUngargasseHintereZollamtsstr.Bräunerstr.NaturhistorischesMuseumWienMuseumAlbertinaSt.ElisabethKrankenhausPalaisAuersbergMUMOKHelden-platzRilke-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzSchwarzenberg-platzG.-Coch-PlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKStiftskircheAugustinerkircheSt.Joseph-kircheKarls-kircheRussischeKircheStephansdomGardekircheTheateranderWienStaatsoperAkademie-theaterStiftskaseParlamentJustiz-PalastAmHeumarktRechteWienzeileAmStadtparktParkringKärntnerRingHauptstr.OperngasseSchubertringDr.-K.- RennerRingMuseumstr.WollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.NeulinggasseVordereZollamtsstrasseLinkeWienzeileHerrengasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.KarlsgasseGusshausstrasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorferStrasseBreite GasseKirchberggasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.DoblhoffgasseSeidlgasseLiebenberg-gasseBechardgasseCobden-gasseRosenbursen-strasseMarxergasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseTongasseVeithgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseSalesianergasseSingerstr.BeatrixgasseLöwelstr.Invalidenstr.Lisztstr.Linke BahngassRechte BahngassNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteKohlmarktBurgringOpernringGrabenBiberstr. StubenringSchallautzerStr.GetreidemarktResselparkDorotheergasseAugustiner Str.WeihburggasseeMariahilferStrasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseBaumannstr.UngargasseHintereZollamtsstr.Bräunerstr.NaturhistorischesMuseumWienMuseumAlbertinaSt.ElisabethKrankenhausPalaisAuersbergMUMOKHelden-platzRilke-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzSchwarzenberg-platzG.-Coch-PlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKStiftskircheAugustinerkircheSt.Joseph-kircheKarls-kircheRussischeKircheStephansdomGardekircheTheateranderWienStaatsoperAkademie-theaterStiftskaseParlamentJustiz-Palast3101236758934UpperBelvedereOttoWagnerPavilionsSecessionNaschmarktWagnerApartmentsLeopoldMuseumLoosHausMuseumfürAngewandteKunst(MAK)PostsparkasseAmericanBarU-BahnInformationChurchPostOfficeTheaterMuseumWalkingPathU98765321343101/4mi000.25km
  • 41. 4★★★ =Naschmarkt. You’llfind some of the best snack bars inthe city at Vienna’s top market,serving everything from Wiener-wurst to sushi and satay. My favor-ites include the Naschmarkt Deli forbrunch (Stand 421–436, y 01 5850823, €); Umar Fisch (Stand 76–79,y 01 587 0456, €€) for shellfish;and the Indian Pavillion (Stand74–75, y 01 587 8561, €–€€) fora taste of the exotic. See The BestDining, p 120.33JugendstilViennamodern U-Bahn was built. Theywere dismantled in the 1960s butre-erected in 1977, following exten-sive protests. One is now a simplecafe; the other contains a smallmuseum devoted to Wagner. @ 20min. Karlsplatz. y 01 505 87 47-85177. www.wienmuseum.at. €2adults, €1 concessions, free under19, also free on Sun. Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4(Karlsplatz).3 ★★★ Secession. This gallery isthe finest example of Jugendstilarchitecture in Vienna, reflecting theSecessionist ideals of purity andfunctionalism. Be sure to visit thefascinating interior, if only to seeGustav Klimt’s remarkable 34m-long(111 ft) Beethoven frieze in thebasement. Based on the composer’s9th Symphony (and, in particular,his musical setting of German poetSchiller’s Ode to Joy), it is one of themasterpieces of Viennese Art Nou-veau. See p 16, 4.1 ★★★ Upper Belvedere. Thebest collection of Austrian Modern-ism can be found in the Belvedere(www.belvedere.at), a gloriousbaroque palace, where pride ofplace goes to the celebrated workknown as The Kiss by Gustav Klimt(founder of the Secession move-ment), alongside paintings byFrench Impressionists and Austriancontemporaries Schiele andKokoschka. See p 68, 8.2 ★★ Otto Wagner Pavilions.These two symmetrical Jugendstilrailway stations were built as part ofOtto Wagner’s scheme for Vienna’shorse-drawn rail network. Made ofgreen-painted steel with white mar-ble slabs, they have striking decora-tive golden flower motifs. Bothstations fell into disuse when theVienna is the birthplace of Jugendstil—Austria’s answer toArt Nouveau—and its spin-off movement, the Secession.This tour takes you on a “greatest-hits” trip around their ground-breaking Modernist art and architecture, including the pièce derésistance, the Secession Building—a daring structure with a cupolaof golden laurel leaves, known locally as the “Golden Cabbage.”START: Upper Belvedere (Tram D Schloss Belvedere).The sunflower motif on Wagner’s pavil-ions is a recurring Jugendstil theme.
  • 42. 34TheBestSpecial-InterestToursfusion of Art Nouveau decorationwith modern materials. @ 5 min.Linke Wienzeile 40 and 38. Nophone. Closed to the public. U-Bahn4 (Kettenbrückengasse).6 ★★★ Leopold Museum. Themain draw of this gallery of 19th-and 20th-century Austrian art is theworld’s largest collection of worksby the provocative artist, EgonSchiele. It also contains some signifi-cant Klimt canvases. While you’rehere, check out the exquisite Arts5 ★ Wagner Apartments. Fewfacades in Vienna are as captivatingas the Jugendstil Majolikahaus.Designed by pioneering architectOtto Wagner in 1899, it is namedafter the majolica tiles he used tocreate the colorful, flowing, floralpatterns covering the exterior.Together with its neighbor (on thecorner of Köstlergasse), whose cur-vaceous facade is further embel-lished with gold embossing bySecessionist artist Koloman Moser,they represent Wagner’s ultimateThe Wiener Werkstätte (Viennese Workshop), founded in 1903by Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser as a direct offshoot of theSecession movement, was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movementpopular in Britain at the time. The aim was to bring Jugendstil designinto homes throughout Vienna. By turning functional, everydayobjects such as cutlery, crockery, furniture, and curtains into uniqueitems of great beauty and quality, they sought to transform daily lifeinto a “Gesamtkunstwerk” (total work of art). By 1905, the WienerWerkstätte had over 100 craftsmen, including Klimt, Loos, andKokoschka, but it was forced to close in 1932, unable to competefinancially with the cheap, mass-produced items made by rival com-panies. Nowadays, the best collections of Wiener Werkstätte arti-facts can be seen in the Leopold Museum and MAK (p 12, 5). Someupmarket design shops still sell products along similar lines, notablyAugarten, Lobmeyr, and Woka (see The Best Shopping, p 79).The Wiener WerkstätteThe striking Secession building.
  • 43. 0★★ American Bar. Designedby Adolf Loos in 1908, this cocktailbar is an absolute gem, character-ized by clever use of mirrors (to cre-ate an illusion of space), elegant ArtNouveau glass cabinets, onyx, mar-ble, and—a Loos hallmark—mahog-any paneling. Come for earlyevening drinks, before the crowdsarrive. Kärntner Durchgang 10.y 01 512 3283. www.loosbar.at.U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).35JugendstilVienna9 ★ Postsparkasse. This mar-velous example of Secession archi-tecture was designed by OttoWagner in 1904–6. He won a com-petition to create a novel structurecapable of reflecting the Post OfficeSavings Bank’s innovative proce-dures, and came up with thisextraordinary gray marble facade,held together by 17,000 metal studsand topped by stylized Jugendstilangels. The lofty, light-infused inte-rior (and tiny Wagner museum) canbe viewed during bank openinghours. @ 10 min (30 min includingmuseum). Georg-Coch-Platz 2. y 01599 05-33825. www.ottowagner.com. Museum: €5 adults, €3.50 con-cessions, free under 10. Mon–Fri9am–5pm; Sat 10am–5pm. U-Bahn1/4 (Schwedenplatz).and Crafts furniture designs of theWiener Werkstätte. p 77, 2.7 ★ Loos Haus. Loos Haus,designed by Adolf Loos in 1921,caused an outcry when it was firstbuilt. Its austere design, geometriclines, and lack of ornamentationoffended public taste during a periodwhen florid facades were still derigueur. The ornament-lovingEmperor Franz Joseph found thehouse so hideous that he kept thecurtains of rooms overlookingMichaelerplatz drawn shut andrefused to use the Hofburg’s Michael-ertor exit ever again. Nicknamed “thehouse without eyebrows,” it is nowconsidered a masterpiece of moderndesign. The interior (currently a bank)reflects the exterior’s simple, stylishelegance. @ 10 min. Herrengasse2–4. No phone. www.designzonelooshaus.at. Bank opening hours (toglimpse inside): Mon–Wed, Fri 9am–3pm; Thurs 9am–5:30pm. U-Bahn 3(Herrengasse).8★★ Museum für AngewandteKunst (MAK).The Jugendstil andWiener Werkstätte rooms are a must-see here. See p 12, 5.Wagner’s ornate Majolikahaus.Fiaker passing Loos Haus—the ‘housewithout eyebrows’.
  • 44. 36TheBestSpecial-InterestToursUUUUUUUUAmHeumarktRechte WienzeileParkringKärntner RingHauptstr.OperngasseSchubertrinPrinz-Eugen-StrasseDr.-Karl-LuegerRingWollzeilArgentinierstr.Helferstorfer Str.RockhgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseHerrengasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.BognergasseRenngasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.PaniglgasseResselgasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.KarlsgasseGusshausstrassePressgasseFloragasseMozartgasseStraussenKrongasseRubens-assegasseGrossNeugassRienösslgasseKleineNeugasseFleischmann-gasseMayerhofgasseTheresianumgasseWallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseCobden-gasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseJohannesgassePlösslgassergassesseMommseSingerstr.Löwelstr.Lisztstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarkt TuchlaubenBurgringOpernringSalzgriesFleischmarkLugeckGrabenGetreidemarktResselparkeigMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.GriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseWaaggasseKlagFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseGölsdorfgasseBräunerstr.WienMuseumAlbertinaPalaisSchwarzenbergHelden-platzMöllwald-platzRilke-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzMinoriten-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBrahms-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzSchillerplatzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGSCHOTTENTORSTEPHANS-PLATZHERREN-GASSESCHWEDEN-PLATZMUSEUMS-QUARTIERTAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKARLS-PLATZSTADT-PARKAugustinerkircheKarls-kirchSchottenstiftMaria amGestadeSt.PeterMinoriten-kircheStephansdomSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeAmHeumarktRechte WienzeileParkringKärntner RingHauptstr.OperngasseSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseDr.-Karl-LuegerRingWollzeilArgentinierstr.Helferstorfer Str.RockhgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseHerrengasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.BognergasseRenngasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.PaniglgasseResselgasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.KarlsgasseGusshausstrassePressgasseMühlgasseFloragasseMozartgasseTaubstummen-gasseStraussenKrongasseRubens-assegasseGrossNeugassRienösslgasseKleineNeugasseFleischmann-gasseMayerhofgasseTheresianumgasseWallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseCobden-gasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseJohannesgassePlösslgassergassesseMommseSingerstr.Löwelstr.Lisztstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarkt TuchlaubenBurgringOpernringSalzgriesFleischmarkLugeckGrabenGetreidemarktResselparkeigMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.GriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseKlagFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseGölsdorfgasseBräunerstr.WienMuseumAlbertinaPalaisSchwarzenbergHelden-platzMöllwald-platzRilke-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzMinoriten-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBrahms-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzSchillerplatzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGSCHOTTENTORSTEPHANS-PLATZHERREN-GASSESCHWEDEN-PLATZMUSEUMS-QUARTIERTAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKARLS-PLATZSTADT-PARKAugustinerkircheKarls-kirchSchottenstiftMaria amGestadeSt.PeterMinoriten-kircheStephansdomSalztor-brückeMarien-brücke141423710111258936 313Pasqualati HausDreimäderlhausCollalto PalaceSammlung Alter MusikinstrumenteBurggartenCafé FrauenhuberStaatsoperArnold Schönberg CenterWiedenHaus der MusikMozarthausCentral CemeteryGriechenbeislMusikverein987543210114121136313U-BahnChurchInformationMuseumU1/4 mi00 0.25 kmCity of Music
  • 45. 37CityofMusicMozart made his first public appear-ance, aged just 6, in 1762. The boy-wonder had recently arrived by boatfrom his native Salzburg and wowedthe audience with his mastery of theclavichord and violin. Am Hof 13.U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).4 ★ Sammlung Alter Musikin-strumente. It seems fitting thatsuch a musically-rich city shouldhave an impressive musical instru-ment collection, and you won’t bedisappointed by this Collection ofAncient Musical Instruments.Started by Archduke Ferdinand ofTyrol, this now contains the finestensemble of Renaissance instru-ments in the world, including anextraordinary 16th-century clavior-gan, which can reproduce specialeffects like birdsong; some earlyserpents (snake-shaped horns); vio-lins with elaborately carved scrolls;and pianos once owned by Haydn,Beethoven, and Schubert. @ 451 ★★ Pasqualati Haus. TheGerman-born composer Ludwig vanBeethoven moved to Vienna at theage of 22 to take lessons withHaydn and Mozart. During his 35years in the city, he moved house astaggering 68 times. The Pasqualatihouse on the old city ramparts(named after its long-time ownerJosef von Pasqualati) is the mostinteresting of three Beethovenhouses currently open to the public.The composer lived in this housefrom 1804 to 1818, and wrote manyof his best-loved works here, includ-ing the opera Fidelio, Symphonies 4,5, 7, and 8, and his 4th piano con-certo. His rooms (on the 4th floor)contain just a handful of memen-toes, portraits, scores, and personalbelongings, but they are wonder-fully evocative. In the back room,enjoy listening to excerpts of his“greatest hits” while gazing over thecity rooftops. When Beethoven livedhere, he would have had sweepingviews of the Vienna Woods. @ 45min. Mölker Bastei 8. y 01 5358905. www.wienmuseum.at. €2adults, €1 concessions, free under19 and first Sun of each month.Tues–Sun 10am–1pm and 2–6pm.U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).2 ★ Dreimäderlhaus. Seep 72, 5.3 ★ Collalto Palace. Eventhough you can’t go inside, allMozart fans make their pilgrimagehere to see the simple plaque onthe wall of this unremarkablebaroque building situated in Vien-na’s largest enclosed square. Itcommemorates the site whereThis lengthy but fascinating tour pieces together theextraordinary legacy of one of the world’s leading musicalcities, from Mozart the musical whiz-kid to the kings of the Viennesewaltz. It also includes some lesser-known sights and historic buildingsclosed to the public, which you can easily skip if you are short of timeor energy. START: Pasqualati Haus (U-Bahn 2 Schottentor).Pasqualati Haus - one of Beethoven’snumerous residences.
  • 46. 6★ Café Frauenhuber.Fortify yourself withcoffee and cakein Vienna’s oldestcafe. Mozart oncelived in this building, andBeethoven used to per-form piano sonatas here.Himmelpfortgasse 6.y 01 512 8383. €–€€.38TheBestSpecial-InterestTours7 ★★★ Staatsoper. Vienna’sreputation as a “City of Music”focuses largely on its prestigiousState Opera, which has, for centu-ries, staged premieres of many lead-ing works. It continues to enjoy adazzling reputation, with 300 perfor-mances annually taken from its vastrepertoire of ballets and opera“greats” (including Mozart’s TheMagic Flute, Wagner’s Ring Cycle,and Beethoven’s Fidelio). It is alsothe venue for the annual Opera Ball,the most glittering event in the Aus-trian social calendar, held on thelast Thursday of Vienna’s Fasching(Carnival) season celebrations.Stage and stalls are transformedinto a gigantic flower-filled ballroom.I thoroughly recommend a guidedtour of the interior, for a closer lookat its grand staircase and plush red-and-gold auditorium. Tour timesvary depending on rehearsal sched-ules, but they are usually advertisedon a billboard by the entrance,which is updated daily. @ 40 mintour. Opernring 2. y 01 514 44-7810 (box office). www.staatsoper.at. Tram 1/2/D (Oper).8 ★★ Arnold Schönberg Cen-ter. Somewhat off the tourist track,this small archive center is essentialviewing for any aficionado of20th-century classical music(see Jewish Vienna p 48, 9).Schönberg famously devel-oped a 12-tone composi-tional technique,stretching the bound-aries of 19th-cen-tury tonality tonew dimensions.He founded theSecond VienneseSchool of Music alongwith fellow Viennesecomposers Alban Bergand Anton vonWebern. Their musicwas not wellmin. Neue Burg, Heldenplatz. y 01525 24-4602. www.khm.at. €12adults, €9 concessions, free under19; price includes admission to theEphesus Museum and the ImperialArmory (p 60, 5), as well as theKHM (p 18, 8). Sept–May Tues–Sun10am–6pm (Thurs until 9:30pm);June–Aug daily 10am–6pm. Tram1/2/D (Ringstrasse).5 ★★ =Burggarten. Thisinformal park in the city center(p 58, 2) contains a magnificentmarble statue of Mozart by Viktor Til-gner (1896), and scenes in bas-relieffrom his opera Don Giovanni. Bur-gring (just inside the main gates,opposite Eschenbachgasse).Tram 1/2/D (Ringstrasse).An Italian 19th-century mandolin in theSammlung Alter Musikinstrumente.Mozart graces theBurggarten.
  • 47. 39CityofMusicstreet bears a plaque to one musicalgenius or another. Start: Karlsplatz.received at the time, and Schönbergeventually moved to America.Today he is considered one of themost influential and distinguishedcomposers of the 20th century. Thisfascinating modern center enablesyou to see the man behind themusic—through his photos, brilliantartworks, reconstructed study, andhomemade work tools (many fromrecycled materials)—and to listento compositions by Schönberg,Webern, and Berg. @ 45 min. Zaun-ergasse 1–3 (take elevator in innerlobby area up one floor, then ring onthe doorbell). y 01 712 1888. www.schoenberg.at. €5 adults, €3 con-cessions and kids, €2.70 students.Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. Tram 1/2/71/D(Schwarzenbergplatz).9 ★★ Wieden. If you have time,explore the bohemian musicians’district of Wieden, just south ofanother great musical focal-point,the Musikverein (p 13, 7). Here it iseasy to see why Vienna is called the“City of Music,” as nearly everyThe plodding, triple-time German folk dance known as the Län-dler was transformed by the Viennese into a merry, whirling danceduring the 1820s. It first became popular in Viennese dance-hallsthanks to the composer and leader of a small ensemble, Joseph Lan-ner. Johann Strauss I (also known as “the Elder”) was one of his violaplayers and, in 1825, he broke away to form his own waltz orchestra.The two band-leaders conducted a lengthy “waltz war,” performingin the cafes of the Prater, but the rivalry ended amicably whenStrauss played waltz tunes (at slow speed) at Lanner’s funeral in1843. After his death, the Strauss family dominated the Viennesewaltz scene for over half a century, thanks largely to Johann StraussII, the second-generation “Waltz King,” who composed nearly 400new dance tunes, including the Blue Danube (1867). Today Straussthe Younger’s house can be visited at Praterstrasse 54 (Tues–Thurs2–6pm, Fri–Sun 10am–1pm). His statue graces the Stadtpark (p 95)and his music is performed nightly in venues throughout the city (seeThe Best Arts & Entertainment, p 133).The Viennese WaltzArnold Schönberg—a highly regardedteacher.
  • 48. 40TheBestSpecial-InterestToursUURechte WienzeileOperngasseFavoritenstr.FavoritenstrassMargaretenstrasseArgentinierstr.Linke WienzeilePaniglgasseBrucknerstr.Frankenberg-gasseKarlsgasseGusshausstrasseMühlgasseFloragasse Taubstummen-gassePaulanergasseStraussengassePhorusgasseKrongasseLambrechtgasseSchaumburgergassWaltergasseGrossNeugasseRienösslgasseKleineNeugasseFleischmann-gasse MayerhofgasseTheresianumgasseBelvederegasseSchönburgstr.ViktorgasseRainergasseGrafStarhemberggasseHartmanngasseGartengasseSchlossgasseKöstlergasseDürergasseGumpendorfer StrasseSchleifmühlgasseGrüngasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseWehrgasseSchönbrunnerstrasseMittelsteigZiegelhofengasseKettenbrücken-gasseariahilferWiednerHauptstr.Hamburgerstr. HeumühlgasseWaaggasseKlagbaumgasseWiednerHauptstr.SchikanedergasseDritteMannHartmannspitalMargareten-platzMöllwald-platzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzBrahms-platzAlfred-Grünwald-ParkRessel ParkWIEDEN4.KETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSETAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKarls-kircheRechte WienzeileOperngasseFavoritenstr.FavoritenstrassMargaretenstrasseArgentinierstr.Linke WienzeilePaniglgasseBrucknerstr.Frankenberg-gasseKarlsgasseGusshausstrasseMühlgasseFloragasse Taubstummen-gassePaulanergasseStraussengassePhorusgasseKrongasseLambrechtgasseSchaumburgergassWaltergasseGrossNeugasseRienösslgasseKleineNeugasseFleischmann-gasse MayerhofgasseTheresianumgasseBelvederegasseSchönburgstr.ViktorgasseRainergasseGrafStarhemberggasseHartmanngasseGartengasseSchlossgasseKöstlergasseDürergasseGumpendorfer StrasseSchleifmühlgasseGrüngasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseWehrgasseSchönbrunnerstrasseMittelsteigZiegelhofengasseKettenbrücken-gasseariahilferWiednerHauptstr.Hamburgerstr. HeumühlgasseWaaggasseKlagbaumgasseWiednerHauptstr.SchikanedergasseDritteMannHartmannspitalMargareten-platzMöllwald-platzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzBrahms-platzAlfred-Grünwald-ParkRessel ParkWIEDEN4.KETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSETAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKarls-kircheU-BahnChurchPost OfficeMuseumU1/4 mi00 0.25 km9A9B9D9E9F9G9I9H9CWiedenIn ? ★ Ressel Park, a statue ofthe German romantic composer,Johannes Brahms, faces the Musikv-erein where he was once director.Brahms lived in nearby Karlsgasse,and was charmed by Vienna, callingit a “village.” The Venetian baroquecomposer Antonio Vivaldi is buriedat the Á ★ Technische Univer-sität nearby. Richard Strauss,famed for his symphonic poems,lived at ª ★★★ Mozartgassefrom 1919 to 1925. The Jugendstil“Mozart Fountain” outside illus-trates scenes from Mozart’s operaThe Magic Flute. German composerChristoph Willibald Gluck (directorof Empress Maria Theresa’s courtorchestra) lived at £ ★ WiednerHauptstrasse 32. The Finnishcomposer Jean Sibelius lived at¢ ★ Waaggasse 1 from 1890 to1891. He left Vienna having failedan audition to join the ViennaPhilharmonic as a violinist. A plaqueat ° ★ Johann Strauss Gasse4 marks the last home of JohannStrauss II. The opening bars of hiscelebrated Blue Danube waltz deco-rate the wall at number 10. Czechcomposer Antonín Dvorák fre-quented the former Hotel GoldenenLamm at ¤ ★ Wiedner Haupt-strasse 7. The ¦ ★ Theateran der Wien (Linke Wienzeile 6)pays homage to Mozart with itsPapageno statue (a reference toThe Magic Flute). It premieredBeethoven’s opera Fidelio in 1805.Franz Schubert died in 1828 at¥ ★★ Kettenbrückengasse 6.Today it contains a small museumwith a handful of poignant memen-toes. y 01 581 6730. www.wienmuseum.at. €2 adults, €1 conces-sions, free under 19. Wed–Thurs10am–1pm and 2–6pm.
  • 49. #★★ =Griechenbeisl. Tuckinto hearty Austrian cuisine in thevaulted dining rooms (or shadedsidewalk terrace) of one of Vienna’soldest inns, located beside theornate Greek Orthodox church, andonce frequented by Beethoven,Brahms, Schubert, and Mark Twain.Fleischmarkt 11, y 01 533 1977.€€.41CityofMusic$ ★★ Musikverein. A concerthere marks the perfect end to amusical day! See p 13, 7.0 ★★★ =Haus der Musik.In a city full of musical museums,this one is unique amongst them,focusing not only on Vienna’s legacyof classical music but also on thescience of sound and the listeningprocess. Housed in the former resi-dence of Otto Nicolai, founder ofthe celebrated Vienna PhilharmonicOrchestra, it seems fitting that themuseum hosts the orchestra’sarchives (including sketches, letters,batons, posters, scores by variouscomposers such as Bruckner,Brahms, and Richard Strauss), anda film of Vienna’s illustrious NewYear’s Day concert. See p 43, 5.! ★★★ =Mozarthaus. Seep 11, 4.@ ★★ Central Cemetery. Visitthe final resting places of many ofthe city’s great musicians, includingBeethoven, Brahms, Schubert,Schönberg, and all the Strausses atthis vast cemetery which containsover 2 1⁄2 million graves. Look outalso for a monument to Mozart (whoended up in a pauper’s grave in theevocatively overgrown St. MarxCemetery). The cemetery’s beautifulJugendstil church was built in 1910by Max Hegele, a pupil of Otto Wag-ner. A map near the entrance helpslocate the celebrity graves. Sim-meringer Hauptstrasse 232–244.y 01 76041. Free admission. Nov–Feb 8am–5pm; Mar, Oct 7am–6pm;Apr, Sept 7am–7pm; May–Aug 7am–8pm (last admission 30 min beforeclosing) Church: daily 8am–4pm(Mar–Oct until 5pm). Tram 6/71(Zentralfriedhof).This elegant fountain representingMozart’s Magic Flute is tucked down aside street in Wieden.
  • 50. 42TheBestSpecial-InterestToursKids’ ViennaUUUUUUUUUUUDonaukanalAmHeumarktAmStadtparktSchüttelstrasseParkringSchubertringDr.-Karl-LuegerRingMuseumstr.Währinger Str.SchottenringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseKolingasseHessgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseTeinfalstr.BognergasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseTegetthoffstr.Himmelpfort-gasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.GoethegasseighBellariastr.Reichsratsstr.WasagasseTaborstrasseZirkusgasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgassePraterstr.LilienbrunngasseSportklubstrasseCzerningasseStoffelagassVivariumstrasseHollandstr.MarxergasseSeidlgasseKollergasseWiesingerstr.BechardgasseOberViaduktgasseSalmgasseUnterViaduktgasseLöwengasseMarxergasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseBäckerstr.ObereWeissgerberstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseHegelgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLöwelstr.Invalidenstr.AdamsgasseHörnesgasseUnter Weissgerberstr.KundmanngasseHetzgasseKegelgasseRadetzkystr.BöcklinstrasseBrandstätteBurgringOpernringSalzgriesFleischmarktFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr. StubenringSchallautzerStr.GrossMohrengasseHauptalleeErdberger LändeRasumofsky-gasseJosef-Gall-GasseE.-Lang-WegSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustiner Str.UntereDonaustrasseWeihburggasseLandstrasser Hauptstr.BeatrixgasseHintereZollamtsstr.WeissgerberländeDampfschiffstrasseFranzensbrückenstr.GeusaugasseSchellinggasseSeilerstätteUngargasseRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenHerrmann-ParkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGSCHOTTENTORSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSESCHWEDEN-PLATZNESTROYPLATZVOLKS-THEATERMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSTUBENTORSTADTPARKROCHUSGASSESchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeRotunden-brückeDonaukanalAmHeumarktAmStadtparktSchüttelstrasseParkringSchubertringDr.-Karl-LuegerRingMuseumstr.Währinger Str.SchottenringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseKolingasseHessgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseTeinfalstr.BognergasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseTegetthoffstr.Himmelpfort-gasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.GoethegasseighBellariastr.Reichsratsstr.WasagasseTaborstrasseZirkusgasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgassePraterstr.LilienbrunngasseSportklubstrasseCzerningasseStoffelagassVivariumstrasseHollandstr.MarxergasseSeidlgasseKollergasseWiesingerstr.BechardgasseOberViaduktgasseSalmgasseUnterViaduktgasseLöwengasseMarxergasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseBäckerstr.ObereWeissgerberstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseHegelgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLöwelstr.Invalidenstr.AdamsgasseHörnesgasseUnter Weissgerberstr.KundmanngasseHetzgasseKegelgasseRadetzkystr.BöcklinstrasseBrandstätteBurgringOpernringSalzgriesFleischmarktFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr. StubenringSchallautzerStr.GrossMohrengasseHauptalleeErdberger LändeRasumofsky-gasseJosef-Gall-GasseE.-Lang-WegSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustiner Str.UntereDonaustrasseWeihburggasseLandstrasser Hauptstr.BeatrixgasseHintereZollamtsstr.WeissgerberländeDampfschiffstrasseFranzensbrückenstr.GeusaugasseSchellinggasseSeilerstätteUngargasseRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenHerrmann-ParkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGSCHOTTENTORSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSESCHWEDEN-PLATZNESTROYPLATZVOLKS-THEATERMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSTUBENTORSTADTPARKROCHUSGASSESchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeRotunden-brücke37311142310589PraterMadameTussaud’sDanubeCanalCruiseKunstHausWienHausderMusikSpanishRidingSchoolMQCafesZoomKindermuseumTechnischesMuseumWienSchönbrunnPalace&ParkHofbackstube-AppleStrudelShowSchönbrunnZoo612U-BahnChurchU910128654312373111/4mi000.25km
  • 51. 1 ★★★ =Prater. Kids youngand old love the Riesenrad (bigwheel), dodgem cars, and thrill-ridesat the amusement park, as well asthe green open spaces of the Praterfor picnics, playgrounds, and sport-ing fun. See p 96.2 ★★ =Madame Tussaud’s.See p 98, 4.3 ★★ =Danube CanalCruise. See p 22, 2.4 ★★★ =KunstHausWien.Explore the curved and colorfulworld of the eccentric Austrian art-ist Friedensreich Hundertwasser.There’s a special kids’ tour and thecafe is child-friendly too, with alovely shaded patio garden. Seep 22 and 24, 4 & 5.5 ★★★ =Haus der Musik.This eccentric venue describes itselfas an “interactive sound museum.”As well as the archives of the ViennaPhilharmonic Orchestra, and a vivid43Vienna may not seem the obvious choice for a familybreak but, believe me, my young family thinks it’s quite thebest city they’ve ever visited. Fiakers (horse-drawn carriages), tramrides, boat trips, the Prater Ferris wheel, parks, playgrounds, and ahost of child-friendly museums ensure kids of all ages find plentywith which to amuse themselves. START: Prater (U-Bahn 3 Erdberg;U-Bahn 2 Ernst Happel Stadion).Kids’ViennaThe Prater amusement park - fun for all the family.KunstHausWien’s café patio is ideal forfamily refreshments.
  • 52. 7★ =MQ Cafes. Of the Muse-umsQuartier’s many eateries, mytwo favorite lunch spots with kidsare MQ Daily (y 01 522 4524, €),and Dschungel Wien Café (y 01522 0720, €) outside Zoom Chil-dren’s Museum (see below). Eatalfresco and then your offspring canrun around outside and burn offsome excess energy.44TheBestSpecial-InterestToursof their rigorous training routine.Alternatively, watch the dashinglyuniformed riders perfect the art ofclassical horsemanship at the morn-ing exercises. All events take placein the Hofburg’s Winter RidingSchool, the world’s oldest indoorriding school built in a statelybaroque style. A guided one hourtour of the Renaissance stables,tack room, and summer and winterriding schools is an absolute mustfor horse-lovers. Michaelerplatz 1,Hofburg, Reitschulegasse 2. y 01533 9031 for Privatissimum and per-formance dates (most Fri 7pm andSat 11am; Sept–June also Sun11am). www.srs.at. Tickets: €23–€173 (available online or fromMichaelerplatz 1). Kids under 3 maynot attend performances; thoseaged 3–6 may attend for free if theysit on an adult’s lap. Sit in the stallsor Gallery I if possible. Morning exer-cises: Sept–June Tues–Sat 10am–noon. Tickets €12 adults, €6 kids(same day only, at Josefsplatz, Gate2).Stable tours (in English and Ger-man): y 01 533 90 32. Mon–Sun2pm, 3pm, and 4pm (reservationsrecommended). Tickets €16 adults;€8 kids . U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).portrayal of Vienna’s classical com-posers, you can also explore themechanics of sound and the experi-ence of listening, through hands-onexhibits and instruments, state-of-the-art interactive toys, and touchscreens. Test your hearing, com-pose your own waltz, record yourown CD, and, best of all, conductthe Vienna Philharmonic using anelectronic baton. The entiremuseum is like a giant musicaltheme park—not to be missed forolder kids. @ 1 hr; make use of thelate opening hours and go in theevening. Seilerstätter 30. y 01 5134850. www.hdm.at. €11 adults, €9concessions, €5.50 kids, free under3, €27 family ticket, €15/€7 adults/kids for a combined ticket withMozarthaus, see p 11. Daily 10am–10pm. Tram 1/2/D (Oper).6 ★★ =Spanish RidingSchool. The image of white Lipiz-zaner stallions performing dazzlingdressage steps to waltz music isperhaps Vienna’s most powerfulmarketing tool. A grand perfor-mance of these amazing equestriangymnastics is an unforgettabletreat. If you can’t get tickets, attenda Privatissimum—a demonstrationFun and games at the KunstHausWien.8 ★★★ =Zoom Kindermu-seum. This Children’s Museum isbrilliant. Designed exclusively forkids, it offers a wide variety of hands-on exhibitions and activities includingthe “Ocean” play area (age 8
  • 53. !★★ =Hofbackstube—Apple Strudel Show. Watch con-fectioners making traditional applestrudel in the old-fashioned “CourtBakery,” then eat one, piping hot,straight from the oven. @ 1 hr.Kavalierstrakt 52. y 01 811 13-239.www.schoenbrunn.at. €3.90. Hourlydemonstrations Apr–Oct daily10am–5pm. U-Bahn 4 (Schönbrunn).45Kids’Viennafor kids at the Schönbrunn Palace,including a puppet theater, a maze, azany playground, the zoo (p 108, 7),and even a special Kindermuseum(Kids’ Museum), where kids can expe-rience something of the imperial wayof life while playing with toys of theera, laying the table for a banquet,and dressing up in Habsburg cos-tumes. @ 1–4 hr. Kindermuseum.y 01 811 13-239. www.kaiserkinder.at. €7 adults, €5.50 concessions andkids (3–18), €12.50/€19.50 family.Sat–Sun 10am–5pm (last admission4pm); daily 10am–5pm during schoolvacations. U-Bahn 4 (Schönbrunn).See p 104.months–6 years); messy, arty work-shops (age 3–12); and an excitingmultimedia “Zoom lab” (age 8–14).@ workshops last 1–11⁄2 hr. Museum-splatz 1. y 01 524 7908. www.kindermuseum.at. Phone for times andprices. Reservations essential. Work-shop staff speak German and English.U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier).9 ★★★ =TechnischesMuseum Wien. This huge Techni-cal Museum is some way out oftown, but easy to reach by U-Bahn.Kids will enjoy the old trams andplanes, the hands-on technology dis-plays, and interactive science experi-ments. There’s even a specialadventure area (“Das Mini”) devotedto kids aged between 2 and 6 (butalso enjoyed by the older ones) withactivities such as changing the wheelon a car, running in a human-sizedmouse wheel, and dressing up asfire-fighters. The cafe is reasonablypriced and child-friendly too. @ 2 hr.Mariahilferstrasse 212. y 01 89998-6000. www.tmw.at. €8.50 adults,free under 19. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm;Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Tram 52/58(Penzingerstrasse) or 10 (Johnstrasse/Linzerstrasse).0 ★★★ =Schönbrunn Pal-ace & Park. There’s a huge amountThe Kindermuseum is just for kids.Get lost in the maze at Schönbrunn.@ ★★★ =Schönbrunn Zoo.See p 108, 7.
  • 54. BurgtheateTheater ander WienDashausStaatsoperAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operSchlick-platzHelden-platz--Rilke-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platz Dr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzMaria-eresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-ernfeld-platzKarmeliter-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzMauthe-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platz.-Tandler-PlatzGauss-platzMinoriten-platzDeutsch-meister-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzR.-Schneerson-PlatzG.-Coch-PlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platz Rudolfs-platzMorzin-platzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzistorischesmKunsthistorischesMuseumhtensteinuseumJ.MWienMuseumMAK (MuseumfürAngewandteKunst)Dom- U.Diözesan-MuseumEvangelischesKrankenhausSigmundFreudMueumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleMozarthausAlbertinaBurgtorSt. ElisabethKrankenhausHoherMarktAltesRathaushungelUniversität fürAngewandteKunstKunst-HalleKünstler-HausTheseus-TempelBezirks-MuseumBrigittenAtelierAugartenKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderMoya-UnteresPalaisSchwarzenbergD ittZumheiligenJosefSecessionSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kirche-Karls-kirchSchottenstiftDominikaner-kircheServiten-kircheKapuzinerkircheRussischeKircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterkircheMuttergottesKircheGardekircheMinoriten-kircheeinKunstForumUUUUUUUUUUUUUUDonaukanalFranz-Josefs-BahnhofHOFBURGNEUEBURGOberDonaustr.AmHeumarktJägerstrasseObereAugartenstrassUntereAugartenstrassRembrandtstrasseParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseDr.-Karl-LuegerRingSchottenringPorzellangasseWollzeileNeulinggassePorzellangasseVordereZollamtsstrasseHahngasseSeegasseTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseGonzagagasseSchick-gasseBörsegasseNeutorgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseHerrengasseNaglergasseTegetthoffstr.SchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Kärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Brucknerstr.GusshausstrasseRögergasseAlliiertenEScTaborstr.TaborstrassePraterstr.CastellezgasseNovaragasseGlockengasseSpiRueppgasseGr.SperlgasseZirkusgasseLilienbrunngasseHollandstr.Marxer-gasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.HegelgasseJohannes-gasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.MüMaKlanggasseLampigasseSingerstr.Löwelstr.Lisztstr.LinkeBahngasseRechteBahngasseSeilerstätteBauernmarktBurgringOpernringFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktGrabenFranz-Josefs-KaiStubenringSchallautzerStr.GetreidemarktAmNordwestbahnstr.GrossMohrengasseSchottengasseLothringerstrasseRennwegLandstrasserHauptstr.RossauerLändeLeopoldsgasseObereDonaustrasseLiechtensteinstr.Franz-Josefs-KaiUntere DonaustrasseFranz-Hochedlinger-GassehtensteinkSigmund-Freud-parkSchwarzenberg-GartenBurg-Garten StadtparkVolksgartenHerrmann-ParkAugartenAmModena-ParkWilhelmkienzl-ParkWettsteinparkVopKarlsplatzINNERE STADT1.SCHOTTENTORSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGSCHWEDEN-PLATZROSSAUERLÄNDENESTROY-PLATZTABORSTR.MUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKFRIEDENSBRÜCKEAugarten-brückeFriedens-brückeAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeDonaukanalFranz-Josefs-BahnhofHOFBURGNEUEBURGOberDonaustr.AmHeumarktJägerstrasseObereAugartenstrassUntereAugartenstrassRembrandtstrasseParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseDr.-Karl-LuegerRingSchottenringPorzellangasseWollzeileNeulinggassePorzellangasseVordereZollamtsstrasseHahngasseSeegasseTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseGonzagagasseSchick-gasseBörsegasseNeutorgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseHerrengasseNaglergasseTegetthoffstr.SchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Kärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Brucknerstr.GusshausstrasseRögergasseAlliiertenEScTaborstr.TaborstrassePraterstr.CastellezgasseNovaragasseGlockengasseSpiRueppgasseGr.SperlgasseZirkusgasseLilienbrunngasseHollandstr.Marxer-gasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.HegelgasseJohannes-gasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.MüMaKlanggasseLampigasseSingerstr.Löwelstr.Lisztstr.LinkeBahngasseRechteBahngasseSeilerstätteBauernmarktBurgringOpernringFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktGrabenFranz-Josefs-KaiStubenringSchallautzerStr.GetreidemarktAmNordwestbahnstr.GrossMohrengasseSchottengasseLothringerstrasseRennwegLandstrasserHauptstr.RossauerLändeLeopoldsgasseObereDonaustrasseLiechtensteinstr.Franz-Josefs-KaiUntere DonaustrasseFranz-Hochedlinger-GassehtensteinkSigmund-Freud-parkSchwarzenberg-GartenBurg-Garten StadtparkVolksgartenHerrmann-ParkAugartenAmModena-ParkWilhelmkienzl-ParkWettsteinparkVopKarlsplatzINNERE STADT1.SCHOTTENTORSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGSCHWEDEN-PLATZROSSAUERLÄNDENESTROY-PLATZTABORSTR.MUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKFRIEDENSBRÜCKEAugarten-brückeFriedens-brückeAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brücke98765431011132U-BahnInformationU1/4 mi00 0.25 km14367101158932JudenplatzElla’sDocumentation Center ofAustrian Resistance (DÖW)Freud MuseumHeldenplatzJüdisches MuseumStaatsoperSchwarzenbergplatzArnold Schönberg CenterStadttempelLeopoldstadt46TheBestSpecial-InterestToursJewish Vienna
  • 55. 2 Ella’s. This bright, modern cafe-restaurant serves a superb range ofcoffee, and a mouth-watering menuof “Mediterranean soul food” on itssunny terrace. The lemon risotto withhaloumi is especially tasty. Judenplatz9–10. y 01 535 1577. €–€€.47JewishVienna3 ★★★ Documentation Centerof Austrian Resistance (DÖW).Fascinating but inevitably harrowing,this small museum documents theearly history of National Socialismand the persecution of its oppo-nents. @ 1 hr. Altes Rathaus, Wip-plingerstrasse 6–8. y 01 228 9469-319. www.doew.at. Free admission.Mon–Fri 9am–5pm (Thurs until 7pm).U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).4 ★ Freud Museum. Seep 73, 8.5 ★★ Heldenplatz. “HeroesSquare,” in front of the Neue Burg(p 60, 5) was built by the Habsburgs1 ★★ Judenplatz. This squaremarks the heart of the medieval Jew-ish ghetto. The first expulsion ofVienna’s Jews took place in 1421.You can learn more about the ghettoduring that period at the JudenplatzMuseum, and visit the remains ofone of Europe’s largest medievalsynagogues, excavated in 1995. Inthe square, I admire the stark poi-gnancy of the modern stone monu-ment devoted to the Holocaust.Designed by British sculptor RachelWhitbread, and erected in 2000, itresembles an inside-out library ofnameless books lined up on book-shelves with their spines facinginward, symbolizing the many sto-ries of the victims left untold. @ 30min. Judenplatz. Museum: Judenplatz8. y 01 535 0431. www.jmw.at. €4adults, €2.50 concessions. Sun–Thurs 10am–6pm; Fri 10am–2pm.U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).It is impossible to imagine what it means for one-sixth of thepopulation to be made pariahs overnight, deprived of allhuman rights …” wrote a wartime correspondent in 1938, describ-ing the plight of Viennese Jews. Jews have been persecuted in this cityon more than one occasion, despite their outstanding contribution tothe arts, science, and politics. Their remarkable story is intrinsic to thehistory of Vienna. START: Judenplatz (U-Bahn 1/3 Stephansplatz).Austria’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier—Castle Gate at Heldenplatz.
  • 56. 48TheBestSpecial-InterestToursJewish-born Gustav Mahler, whodirected the opera house for 10years from 1897 to 1907. As thiswas an “imperial” post and thusbarred to Jews under Austro-Hun-garian law, Mahler converted toCatholicism. During his tenure,Mahler made radical changes tooperatic conventions, such as dim-ming audience lighting during theperformance, shortening intervals,and seating late arrivals only duringintermissions—now all standardpractices worldwide. See p 38, 7.8 ★ Schwarzenbergplatz. Thisgrandiose square was the seat ofthe military government duringWorld War II, when it was known as“Stalinplatz” and used for militaryparades. The giant bronze RussenHeldendenkmal (Russian Memorial)was created in 1945. Weighing 15tons, it was made out of hundredsof melted-down busts of Hitler.Schwarzenbergplatz. Tram 1/2/71/D(Schwarzenbergplatz).9 ★★ Arnold Schönberg Cen-ter. This archive center provides aunique insight into the life and musicof the Jewish composer, who is nowrecognized as having had a profoundinfluence on modern classical music.Initially, however, Schönberg’s inno-vative 12-tone compositions receivedas a symbol of imperial strength. Itwill, however, go down in history asthe scene of Hitler’s 1938 fatefulspeech to thousands of cheeringAustrians when he announced theinfamous Anschluss (Annexation),thereby assimilating Austria into theThird Reich. By 1945, Heldenplatzhad been ploughed up to plant vege-tables to feed Vienna’s suffering citi-zens. Since 1955, the Burgtor (CastleGate) on the southwestern side of thesquare has served as Austria’s Tombof the Unknown Soldier. @ 15 min.Heldenplatz. Tram 1/2/D (Burgring).6 ★★ Jüdisches Museum. Theworld’s first Jewish Museum openedin Vienna in 1895, but the exhibitswere confiscated by the Nazis in1938. Today’s museum opened in1993 and contains an important col-lection of Judaica and an extraordi-nary fresco-like “Installation ofRemembrance.” @ 45 min. Doro-theergasse 11. y 01 535 0431. www.jmw.at. €4.50 adults, €2.50 conces-sions, free under 10. Sun–Fri 10am–6pm. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).7 ★★★ Staatsoper. The StateOpera has always attracted topinternational conductors, includingRichard Strauss, Herbert von Kara-jan, and Claudio Abbado. Its mostcontroversial appointment wasMany historians date the beginning of the Holocaust to 9thNovember, 1938, when the Nazi government launched a viciousattack on the Jewish community throughout Germany and Austria.This was particularly ruthless in Vienna, where the Jewish popula-tion totaled around 200,000 (over 10% of the city’s inhabitants).Storm-troopers torched 42 of Vienna’s 43 synagogues, lootedshops and businesses, and ransacked homes. The event becameknown as Kristallnacht—the “Night of Glass”—because of the shat-tered glass found on the pavements outside Jewish premises thefollowing day.Kristallnacht
  • 57. 49JewishViennaall Jews from Vienna, and the greatsynagogue was converted into theChurch of St. Leopold. Today, parts ofLeopoldstadt retain a Jewish atmo-sphere, with synagogues, koshershops, and Jewish schools. Four slimcolumns (at Tempelgasse 5) mark thelocation of the former Great Temple,destroyed on Kristallnacht. U-Bahn 1(Nestroyplatz).a poor reception in Vienna and in1933, perturbed by the rise ofNational Socialism, he emigrated toAmerica. See p 38, 8.0 ★ Stadttempel. The City Syna-gogue, designed in 1826 by therenowned local architect Kornhäu-sel, was the only Viennese syna-gogue to survive Kristallnacht (seebelow), thanks largely to its con-cealed facade. Today it remains atthe heart of Vienna’s Jewish com-munity. Its impressive elliptical inte-rior features a blue dome, marblecolumns, and a three-tiered gallery.Seitenstettengasse 2–4. y 01 5350431.www.jmw.at. €3 adults, €2concessions. Guided tours only:Mon–Thurs (except Jewish holidays)11:30am and 2pm. Bring your pass-port for ID and arrive 15 min before-hand. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).! ★ Leopoldstadt. The city’sancient Jewish district was creatednorth of the Danube Canal in the Leo-poldstadt quarter, following an impe-rial decree in 1624 that Jews had tolive outside the city walls. Half a cen-tury later, Emperor Leopold I expelledThese four columns mark the site ofLeopoldstadt’s former Great Temple.Cartoon depicting Mahler from the Leopold Museum.
  • 58. UUURechte WienzeileParkringKärntner RingHauptstr.Operng.SchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseMargaretenstr.Argentinierstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKruger-str.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseDumba-str.Brucknerstr.KarlsgasseGusshausstrassePressgasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSpiegelgasseKantgasseCanovag.HegelgasseLothringerstr.ZaunergasseJohannesgasseLisztstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktAugustinerStr.HeumühlgasseFriedrichstrasse Lothringerstrasse AmHeumarktWienMuseumAlbertinaUnteBelvePalaisSchwarzenbergHelden-platzRilke-platzJosefsplatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzAlbertinaPlatzSchwarzenberg-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzSchwarzenGarteBurg-Garten StadtparkAlfred-Grünwald-ParkKarlsplatzNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTADTPARKKarls-kirch GardekirchStaatsoperAkademie-theaterHotelBristolHotelImperialHotelSacherRechte WienzeileParkringKärntner RingHauptstr.Operng.SchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseMargaretenstr.Argentinierstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKruger-str.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseDumba-str.Brucknerstr.KarlsgasseGusshausstrassePressgasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSpiegelgasseKantgasseCanovag.HegelgasseLothringerstr.ZaunergasseJohannesgasseLisztstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktAugustinerStr.HeumühlgasseFriedrichstrasse Lothringerstrasse AmHeumarktWienMuseumAlbertinaUnteBelvePalaisSchwarzenbergHelden-platzRilke-platzJosefsplatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzAlbertinaPlatzSchwarzenberg-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzSchwarzenGarteBurg-Garten StadtparkAlfred-Grünwald-ParkKarlsplatzNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTADTPARKKarls-kirch GardekirchStaatsoperHotelBristolHotelImperialHotelSacherAkademie-theater1/4 mi00 0.25 kmU-BahnChurchPost OfficeTheaterMuseumWalking PathU764443213514236735Third Man Private CollectionBeethovenplatzSewersImperial, Bristol & Sacher hotelsCafé MozartSchreyvogelgasse 8Prater - Riesenrad50TheBestSpecial-InterestToursadvertising kiosk nearby: duringpolice raids, black-market crookswould disappear into this and downa manhole into the sewers. Beethov-enplatz. U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark).3 ★★ =Sewers. The climax ofthe movie takes place in the sewers,when Lime is eventually cornered bypolice and shot dead. The policeenter the sewer system via a steelhatch (in Friedrichstrasse). This alsomarks the start of the city’s thrillingsewer tour. @ 1 hr.1 ★★ Third Man Private Col-lection. Any fan of the cult movieshould visit this tiny museum, whichprovides a fascinating insight into themaking of The Third Man, and post-war Vienna. @ 45 min. Pressgasse25. y 01 586 4872. www.drittemannmuseum.com. €7.50 adults, €6 con-cessions, €4 kids (10–16). Sat 2–6pm.U-Bahn 4 (Kettenbrückengasse).2 ★ Beethovenplatz. TheBeethoven statue here is featured atthe start of the movie. Note theThe classic 1949 thriller The Third Man is an undisputed mas-terpiece of British film noir. Scripted by Graham Greene anddirected by Carol Reed, it features a legendary performance by OrsonWelles, who plays the central character Harry Lime. A multi-layeredmovie of friendship and betrayal, it provides a unique and authentictestimony of life in the bombed-out ruins of post-World-War-II Vienna.START: Third Man Private Collection (U-Bahn 4 Kettenbrückengasse).“The Third Man” in Vienna
  • 59. 5 Café Mozart. Inspired byGreene’s favorite cafe, musicianAnton Karas composed a “CaféMozart Waltz” for the movie. Thecafe scenes were actually shot in amocked-up set near the Kapuz-inerkirche (Capuchin Church),because the square was still full ofwartime rubble in 1948. Round thecorner is Harry’s house, Palais Pala-vincini (in Josefsplatz). Albertina-platz 2. y 01 241 00-200. €–€€.Tram 1/2/D (Oper).51“TheThirdMan”inViennaKarlsplatz-Esperantopark. y 014000 3033. €7 adults, €5.50 conces-sions (minimum age 12). May–OctThurs–Sun 10am–8pm (tours everyhour). U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).4 ★ Imperial, Bristol &Sacher hotels. From 1945 and for10 years, Vienna was divided intointernational zones by the occupy-ing Allied powers. The center wasan “international” sector, withAmerican intelligence based at theHotel Bristol, the Russians at theImperial, and the British at theSacher—where Martins stays in themovie, and where Greene conceivedthe idea from his intelligence cro-nies in the bar, including his bossthe notorious KGB double agent KimPhilby, who was the inspiration forHarry Lime. Kärtner Ring & Philhar-monikerstrasse. Tram 1/2/D (Oper).6 ★ Schreyvogelgasse 8. Thisis the site of one of the most dra-matic moments in the movie whenHarry emerges from the shadows,very much alive, in the doorwayhere on the Mölker Bastei. Schreyvo-gelgasse 8. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).7 ★★★ = Prater—Riesen-rad. Ride on the 67m (200 ft) Ries-enrad Ferris wheel, one of Vienna’smost famous landmarks, immortal-ized in the movie by the pivotalscene when Martins and Limeeventually meet and Martins learnsthe awful truth about his friend.See p 99, 5.Graham Greene’s favorite café.A cult address - Schreyvogelgasse 8.
  • 60. 52TheBestSpecial-InterestToursUUUUURechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMargaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgassStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgassStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.WickenburggassEbendorferstr.Rathausstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseKettenbrücken-gasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionKUNSTHALLEwienHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskirchSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheateTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastRechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.Margaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgassStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgassStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.WickenburggassEbendorferstr.Rathausstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseKettenbrücken-gasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionKUNSTHALLEwienHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-Palast753614237589StephansdomRuprechtskircheKarlskircheKapuzinerkircheAugustinerkircheAugustinerkellerMichaelerkirchePeterskircheMaria am Gestade36Best Churches
  • 61. 53BestChurchesUUUUUAmHeumarkAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePraterstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenSalzgriesFleischmarkLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseWeiskirchnerstr.WienMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausPalaisSchwarzenbergDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheGardekircheAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brückeAmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.Argentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePraterstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenSalzgriesFleischmarkLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseWienMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausPalaisSchwarzenbergDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheGardekircheAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brücke1/4 mi00 0.25 km891243U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterMuseumWalking PathU
  • 62. 54TheBestSpecial-InterestTours4 ★★★ Kapuzinerkirche. TheChurch of Capuchin Friars resem-bles a country church, charming inits simplicity. Its main appeal is thespine-chilling Kaisergruft (ImperialBurial Vault), which served as theHabsburgs’ burial place for over 350years—12 emperors and 19empresses lie here in elaborate sar-cophagi. A rather gruesomeHabsburg mortuary ritual was tointer the hearts of the imperial fam-ily separately in the crypt of theAugustinerkirche (see below), whilethe intestines were placed in copperurns in the catacombs beneath theStephansdom. @ 45 min. Tegethoff-strasse 2. y 01 512 6853-16. www.kaisergruft.at. €5 adults, €4 conces-sions, €2 kids, €11 family. 10am–6pm (last admission 5:40pm). Tram1/2/D (Oper).1 ★★★ Stephansdom. Therehas been a church in Stephansplatzfor over 800 years, but all thatremains of the original 13th-centuryRomanesque building is the Riesen-tor (Giant’s Doorway) and the twintowers at the main entrance. Theglorious Gothic nave, choir, andside-chapels date from the 14th and15th centuries (some baroque cha-pels were added later). After exten-sive damage at the end of WorldWar II, the citizens of Viennafinanced the rebuilding of the cathe-dral as a symbol of national solidar-ity after the horrors of the Naziregime. See p 11, 3.2 ★★★ Ruprechtskirche. Seep 65, !.3 ★★★ Karlskirche. Vienna’smost impressive baroque church,and its most important sacred build-ing after the Stephansdom. Visit it atsunset to see the magnificent domeat its best. See p 67, 5.Ilove Viennese churches. They showcase the city’s bestarchitecture, and also contain some of its finest artworks andtreasures. What’s more, they provide a fascinating historical recordof the customs, traditions, and extraordinary burial rituals of theViennese over the centuries. START: Stephansdom (U-Bahn 1/3Stephansplatz).The Stephansdom’s intricately tiled roofis a sight to behold.This angel on the façade of Karlskircherepresents the pick-up Testament.
  • 63. 6Augustinerkeller. Head herefor hearty Austrian specialtieswashed down with local wines orbeer on tap, in a snug, brick-vaultedbar set in former monastery cellars.Cheery live music every eveningfrom 6:30pm. Augustinerstrasse 1.y 01 533 1026. €€.55BestChurchesbuttresses, and a canopied porch.Built on a steep bank, it originallyoverlooked the Danube. The maindoor resembles a ship’s prow, and itsdelicate seven-sided filigree towerserved as a landmark for boatmenapproaching the city. Don’t miss theGothic stained glass in the choirinside. More would have survived,had Napoleon’s troops not used thechurch as an arsenal and stables dur-ing their occupation of Vienna in1809. @ 20 min. Salvatorgasse 12.y 01 533 9594-0. www.maria-am-gestade.redemptoristen.at. 8am–3pm. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).5 ★ Augustinerkirche. The for-mer Court Church has witnessednumerous imperial weddings over thecenturies, including Marie Louise’smarriage to Napoleon in 1810 andthat of Franz Joseph I to Sisi in 1854.Besides a stunning Gothic interior, it isrenowned for the pyramidal tomb ofMaria Christina by the Italian neoclas-sical sculptor Antonio Canova. Itscrypt houses 54 silver casks contain-ing the hearts of the Habsburgs (seeabove). @ 20 min. Augustinerstrasse3 (entrance on Josefsplatz). y 01 5337099. www.augustinerkirche.at. Freeadmission. Daily 8am–6pm. U-Bahn 3(Herrengasse).This lion guards Maria Christina’s tomb inAugustinerkirche.Hard to believe the beautiful Maria amGestade was once used as an arsenaland stables.7 ★ Michaelerkirche. St.Michael’s Church is a hotchpotch ofstyles from Romanesque tobaroque. Its main point of interestis the crypt. During the 17th and18th centuries, parishioners wereusually buried beneath theirchurch—well-preserved corpsesare still visible in open coffins. @ 1hr (including 40 min tour of crypt).Michaelerplatz. y 0650 533 8003.www.michaelerkirche.at. €5 adults,€3 kids. After Easter–Oct Mon,Tues, Thurs–Sat 11am and 1:30pm;Wed 11am; Nov–Easter by appoint-ment only. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).8 ★★ Peterskirche. Seep 63, 5.9 ★★★ Maria am Gestade.“St. Mary on the Riverbank”—myfavorite church—is a jewel of Gothicarchitecture, with slender vaults,
  • 64. 56TheBestSpecial-InterestToursUUUUUUUDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingWähringerStr. SchottenringMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseZelinka-gasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseWerdertorgasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseWipplingerstrasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.OperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseKärntnerstr.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.Treitlstr.SchweighofergasseeBreiteGasseKirchberggasseVolksgartenstr.Bellariastr.DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.WasagasseWallnerstr.SpiegelgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGrabenGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.Mariahilfer StrasseFriedrichstrasseSchwarzspanierstr.Bräunerstr.VölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumSecessionKUNSTHALLEwienSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzDeutsch-meister-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftKapuziner-kircheSt. PeterMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterTheater ander WienStiftskaseKunstForumJustiz-PalastDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.WähringerStr. SchottenringMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseZelinka-gasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseWerdertorgasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseWipplingerstrasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.OperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseKärntnerstr.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.Treitlstr.SchweighofergasseeBreiteGasseKirchberggasseVolksgartenstr.Bellariastr.DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.WasagasseWallnerstr.SpiegelgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGrabenGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.Mariahilfer StrasseFriedrichstrasseSchwarzspanierstr.Bräunerstr.VölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumSecessionKUNSTHALLEwienSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzDeutsch-meister-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftKapuziner-kircheSt. PeterMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterTheater ander WienStiftskaseKunstForumJustiz-Palast111074532186391/4 mi00 0.25 kmThe Ringstrasse
  • 65. 57TheRingstrasseUUUUUUOberDonaustr.AmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseHeinrichsgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Seiter-gasseHimmelpfortgasseJohannes-gasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseSchwarzenberg-str.Dumbastr.TaborstrassePraterstr.ZirkusgasseGlockengasseKleine SperlgasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgasseRotensterngasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.Krummbaum-gasseLiebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstrasseRotenturmstr.SonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasseBayerngasseÖlzeltgasseJohannesgasseSalesianergasseSingerstr.FlossgasseAspernbrückgasseLinkeBahngasseRechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktG.-Keller-GasseFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.TandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseGriechengasseSalztorgasseUntere DonaustrasseTempelgasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseLandstrasserHauptstr.ReisnerStr.BeatrixgasseKarmelitergasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseTuchlaubenWienMuseumDom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausUniversität fürAngewandteKunstKünstler-HausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzKarmeliter-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzG.-Coch-PlatzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzAnton-Weber-PlatzStadtparkHerrmann-ParkAmModena-ParkWilhelmkienzl-ParkSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZNESTROYPLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheMaria amGestadeStephansdomAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeOberDonaustr.AmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseHeinrichsgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Seiter-gasseHimmelpfortgasseJohannes-gasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseSchwarzenberg-str.Dumbastr.TaborstrassePraterstr.ZirkusgasseGlockengasseKleine SperlgasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgasseRotensterngasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.Krummbaum-gasseLiebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstrasseRotenturmstr.SonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasseBayerngasseÖlzeltgasseJohannesgasseSalesianergasseSingerstr.FlossgasseAspernbrückgasseLinkeBahngasseRechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktG.-Keller-GasseFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.TandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseGriechengasseSalztorgasseUntere DonaustrasseTempelgasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseLandstrasserHauptstr.ReisnerStr.BeatrixgasseKarmelitergasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseTuchlaubenWienMuseumDom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausUniversität fürAngewandteKunstKünstler-HausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzKarmeliter-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzG.-Coch-PlatzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzAnton-Weber-PlatzStadtparkHerrmann-ParkAmModena-ParkWilhelmkienzl-ParkSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZNESTROYPLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheMaria amGestadeStephansdomAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brücke1423675StaatsoperBurggartenKunsthistorisches Museum (KHM)Naturhistorisches Museum (NHM)Neue BurgParlamentNeues Rathaus1410111213839BurgtheaterCafé LandtmannVotivkircheBörseRuprechtskircheMuseum fürAngewandte Kunst (MAK)Stadtpark141312U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterLibraryMuseumWalking PathU
  • 66. 58TheBestSpecial-InterestTours2 ★★ =Burggarten.With its duck pond, butterflyhouse, fine statuary, andmagnificent Jugendstil glass-house (p 31, 0), thisattractive English-style parkwas originally reserved for theemperor’s family. It was opened tothe public in 1919 and is now one ofthe city’s most popular open spaces.Burgring. Daily 6am–10pm. Tram1/2/D (Burgring).3 ★★★ KunsthistorischesMuseum (KHM). See p 18, 8.4 ★★★ =NaturhistorischesMuseum (NHM). Trace the his-tory of the planet and admire a1 ★★★ Staatsoper. The world-famous State Opera was thefirst of the monumental newpublic buildings on the Ring-strasse. It was built in the His-toricist (neo-Renaissance)style in 1861–9 by architectsNüll and Sicardsburg. Harshcriticism from the public, whothought the opera houselooked like a railway station, droveNüll to commit suicide, and a fewweeks later, before the project wascompleted, a distressed Sicardsburgdied from a heart attack. The build-ing was badly damaged in WorldWar II. Ironically, the Viennese werekeen to restore it to its former gloryafter the war, and the opera housefinally reopened in 1955 with a trium-phant performance of Beethoven’sFidelio. See p 18, 9.With the demolition of the old city walls and the con-struction of the magnificent Ringstrasse, Emperor FranzJosef ushered in a new era of grandeur when he expanded the innercity in the 19th century. Today, this circular boulevard still sepa-rates the historic city center from the suburbs. It is as grand now asit was then, and it’s fun and easy to explore by tram. Just hopaboard Tram 1 at Oper (direction Prater Allee) or 2 at Schweden-platz (direction Ottakringer Strasse/Erdbrustgasse) for a whistle-stop tour. START: Staatsoper (Tram 1/2/D Oper).The celebrated Staatsoper.This sculpture of King ThutmosisIII at the KHM dates fromaround 1460BC.
  • 67. 59TheRingstrasse4B4A4E4D4C4FSECONDFLOORFIRSTFLOORSECONDFLOORFIRSTFLOORFeatured ExhibitsStairsFood & DrinkGift ShopInformationRest RoomsNaturhistorisches Museum (NHM)The B mineralogical collec-tion contains over a thousand dif-ferent mineral specimens (Halls I–III)and one of Europe’s most valuablegem collections (Hall IV). Look outfor the bouquet of jewels given byMaria Theresa to her husband.C Halls V–VI display hundreds ofmeteorites and moon-rocks, andshow how the earth is affected byday, night, the changing seasons,ocean currents, and ozone layers.The D prehistory sectioncontains the world’s largest displayof human skulls. Kids love themezzanine floor and especiallyE Room 10 with its massivedinosaur skeletons, including aDiplodocus—the longest terrestrialvertebrate that has ever lived at 27m(90 ft). In F Room VII, a fossil ofthe world’s largest spider is notfor the squeamish. The upper floorcovers ecology, with room afterroom of every type of G stuffedanimal imaginable, includingnumerous species now extremelyendangered or extinct. @ 2–3 hr.Maria-Theresien-Platz, Burgring 7.y 01 521 77-0. www.nhm-wien.ac.at. €10 adults, €8 concessions,free under 19. Wed–Mon 9am–6:30pm (Wed until 9pm). Tram 1/2/D(Dr-Karl-Renner-Ring).multiplicity of animal species on dis-play at the Natural History Museum.This huge museum is a mirror-imageof the grand Renaissance-style Kun-sthistorisches Museum on theopposite side of the Ringstrasse.Within its majestic display halls lies abewildering array of archeological,anthropological, mineralogical, zoo-logical, and geological specimens.
  • 68. 9Café Landtmann. Ignore theugly modern sun-terrace outsideand step indoors to a fin-de-sièclewonderland of ornate mirrors andpaneled wood. Coffee and cakehere is a quintessential experience.No wonder this was Freud’s favoritecafe. Dr-Karl-Lueger-Ring 4. y 0124100-100. €€.60TheBestSpecial-InterestToursTown Hall is the showiest building onthe Ringstrasse. Atop the main toweris a statue of a knight holding a lance,affectionately called the Rathaus-mann. There is a flag attached to thelance, with a star at the top, whichalso serves as a lightning conductor.The large square in front of the townhall always seems to be hosting somesort of festivity: open-air cinema insummer; ice-skating in winter; and—my favorite—the Christmas market(Christkindlmarkt). Rathausplatz.y 01 52550. Free admission. Guidedtours Mon, Wed, Fri 1pm. U-Bahn 2(Rathaus).8 ★★ Burgtheater. The mostprestigious theater venue in theGerman-speaking world is knownnot only for drama but also for itsgrand staircases and frescoes byGustav Klimt. Constructed in ItalianRenaissance style in 1888, the the-ater was rebuilt following severedamage sustained during WorldWar II. Dr-Karl-Lueger-Ring 2. y 01514 444 140. www.burgtheater.at.50 min tours Sept–June daily 3pm.€5.50 adults, €4.50 concessions,€2 kids. Tram 1/2/D (Burgtheater).5 ★ Neue Burg. Emperor FranzJoseph had plans for two crescent-shaped buildings in his Neue Burg(New Castle), but only one was com-pleted before the Habsburg Empirecollapsed in 1918. Today, this vastedifice, with its colonnaded facade,houses several museums. TheEphesus Museum (Greek andRoman antiquities), the ImperialArmory (Europe’s most compre-hensive weaponry collection), andthe Old Musical Instruments Col-lection (p 37, 4) are all worth avisit. @ 1–2 hr. Heldenplatz. y 01525 24-0. www.khm.at. Combinedadmission for all 3 museums, and forthe KHM (see p 18) €12 adults, €9concessions, free under 19, €3 audioguide. Wed–Sun 10am–6pm. Tram1/2/D (Burgring).6 ★ Parlament. The Greek-styleParliament building makes a dignifiedlandmark with its classical columnsand statues of Greek philosophers.The first Austrian Republic was pro-claimed from the Parliament steps inOctober 1918. Dr-Karl-Renner-Ring 3.y 01 401 10-0. Free admission tovisitor center. Mon–Fri 8:30am–6:30pm; Sat 9:30am–4:30pm. Fortimes of guided tours (€4/€1 adults/kids), see www.parlament.gv.at.Tram 1/2/D (Dr-Karl-Renner-Ring).7 ★★ =Neues Rathaus. Fes-tooned with ornamental tracery, log-gias, and spires, the neo-Gothic NewSkeleton of a Tryceratops head, NaturalHistory Museum.0 ★ Votivkirche. See p 72, 6.! ★ Börse. See p 72, 7.@ ★★★ Ruprechtskirche. Seep 65, !.#★★ Museum für AngewandteKunst (MAK).See p 12, 5.$★★ =Stadtpark. See p 95.
  • 69. 3 The BestNeighborhood Walks
  • 70. 62TheBestNeighborhoodWalksStephansdom DistrictPrevious page: The controversial Haas Haus, at the heart of the UNESCO-protected old city.UUHeumParkringKärntner RingSchubertrinWollzeilMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseNagler-gasseBognergasseFärbergasseSeitergassHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggassesseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Gredlerstr.LiebenberggasseCobdengasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr. PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseHegelgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarktgSalzgriesFleischmarkLugeckGrabenAmHofDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.GriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseGölsdorfgasseBräunerstr.Dom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthauslbertinaHoherMarktAltesRathausFranzis-kanerplatzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkSTEPHANS-PLATZSCHWEDEN-PLATZKARLS-PLATZSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranzisk.-kircheSt. AnnaKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomStaatsoperKammer-spieleKammer-operSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeTuchlaubenHeumParkringKärntner RingSchubertringWollzeilMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseNagler-gasseBognergasseFärbergasseSeitergassHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggassesseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Gredlerstr.LiebenberggasseCobdengasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr. PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseHegelgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarktgSalzgriesFleischmarkLugeckGrabenAmHofDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.GriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseGölsdorfgasseBräunerstr.TuchlaubenDom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthauslbertinaHoherMarktAltesRathausFranzis-kanerplatzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkSTEPHANS-PLATZSCHWEDEN-PLATZKARLS-PLATZSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranzisk.-kircheSt. AnnaKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomStaatsoperKammer-spieleKammer-operSalztor-brückeMarien-brücke1235689101112343731312361011125893437313StephansdomHaas HausGrabenMeinl am GrabenPeterskircheNeidhart FrescoesCafé KorbMozarthausFranziskanerkircheJesuitenkircheRuprechtskircheHoher MarktWürstelstand1/4 mi00 0.25 kmU-BahnChurchMuseumTheaterU
  • 71. 63StephansdomDistrict4★★★ Meinl am Graben. Joinshoppers on the sun-terrace for cof-fee and cake at Vienna’s most ele-gant cafe-delicatessen. At thejunction of two fashionable shop-ping streets, it’s a prime spot forpeople-watching (p 88). Graben 19/Kohlmarkt. y 01 532 3334.€–€€€.This is a walk to suit the whole family. It takes you right tothe historic heart of Vienna, to the foundations of ancientRoman Vindobona, and to some of the city’s oldest inns and churches.Explore the atmospheric maze of medieval alleyways surroundingStephansdom, visit the Mozarthaus, and enjoy the smart shops of theGraben—as well as the best apple strudel in town. START: Stephans-dom (U-Bahn 1/3 Stephansplatz).1 ★★★ Stephansdom. Seep 11, 3.2 ★★ Haas Haus. Created byHans Hollein in the 1980s, this curva-ceous building of polished granite,concrete, and glass, which houses aboutique hotel on the 6th and 7thfloors, is one of Vienna’s most contro-versial pieces of modern architecture.Love it or hate it, it offers tremendousviews of the Stephansdom from therooftop bar (6th floor) and restaurant(7th floor). Stock-im-Eisenplatz. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz).3 ★★ Graben. This broad, pedes-trianized shopping street was oncethe town moat, hence the name Gra-ben (ditch). It later became a market-place and is now one of the city’sfinest boulevards. All the buildingsdate from the baroque, 19th-centuryor Belle Epoque eras, and many stillbear their K.u.K. (Kaiserlich und Köni-glich—Imperial and Royal) warrant.The exuberant baroque Pestsäule(Plague Column) in the middle of thestreet was erected to commemorateVienna’s deliverance from the plagueof 1679. Graben. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz).5 ★★ Peterskirche. St. Peter’s ismy favorite baroque church. Full ofpomp and grandeur, yet intimate atthe same time, its superb acousticsmake it a marvelous concert venue. Ilove the graceful oval nave and thepews, each decorated with threecarved angels’ heads, but the artisticpièce de résistance is undoubtedlythe spectacular fresco on the domedceiling entitled The Martyrdom of St.Sebastian, by Michael Rottmayr.@ 30 min. Petersplatz. y 01 5336433. www.peterskirche.at. Mon–Fri7am–8pm; Sat–Sun 9am–9pm. Occa-sional free concerts (including organrecitals in summer Mon–Fri 3pm).U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).The Plague Column on the Graben.
  • 72. 64TheBestNeighborhoodWalks7 ★★★ Café Korb. The mainreason to take a break here is to trythe scrumptious Apfelstrudel (applestrudel)—quite the best I’ve tasted.The sidewalk terrace with its tinyfountain is a pleasant place to sitand write postcards, or to catch upwith the news from the pile of inter-national newspapers. Brandstätte 9.y 01 533 7215. €–€€.8 ★★★ =Mozarthaus. It iseasy to imagine Mozart living in thisapartment for four years with hisyoung family, a dog, and a songbird,thanks to the paintings, estatedeeds, letters, death mask, manu-scripts, and musical instruments ondisplay. See p 11, 4.9 ★ Franziskanerkirche. TheFranciscan Church is the onlychurch in Vienna with a Renaissancefacade. The interior is a strikingblend of Gothic and northernRenaissance style, with numerouslater baroque features. The squareoutside contains a copy of an 18th-century Moses Fountain (the originalwas melted down by the Nazis) andthe charming pint-sized KleinesCafé. @ 20 min. Franziskanerplatz.y 01 512 4578. Daily 8am–6pm.U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).0 ★ Jesuitenkirche. The JesuitChurch, built in 1627, is one of thecity’s finest baroque churches,decked in a profusion of pink graniteand gilt. The Italian trompe-l’oeil art-ist Andrea Pozzo remodeled theinterior in the early 18th century,The fez-wearing Meinl Moor - the symbolof Vienna’s finest deli and a reminder ofthe city’s Turkish coffee origins.Peterskirche is hidden just off the Graben.6 ★★ Neidhart Frescoes. Oneof Vienna’s best-kept secrets, theserichly colored wall paintings are theoldest secular frescoes in the city.They were commissioned by a clothmerchant around the year 1407.Their scenes of love and revelry(depicting the four seasons) wereinspired by the songs of the lyricalpoet Neidhart von Reuenthal, whorevived the courtly love song in theearly Middle Ages. Fun and frivo-lous, they give a lively and humor-ous insight into medieval life. @ 30min. Tuchlauben 19. y 01 5359065. www.wienmuseum.at. €2adults, €1 concessions, free under19, free first Sun of each month.Tues–Sun 10am–1pm and 2–6pm.U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).
  • 73. 65StephansdomDistrict#★ =Würstelstand. Nightowls meet early birds here (open8am–4am) for coffee, refreshments,or a snack—sausages, kebabs, pizza,and so on. After an evening partyingin the bars of the nearby “BermudaTriangle” night zone (around Roten-turmstrasse), I recommend thehearty Käsekrainer sausages, madewith grilled meat and cheese. Schwe-denplatz. No phone. €.hour on the hour, historical figures(including the Roman emperor Mar-cus Aurelius, Duke Rudolf IV, andJoseph Haydn) parade across thegolden clock-face. It’s best viewedat noon, when all the figuresemerge. Beneath the square, youcan see the city’s best-preservedRoman remains in the small but fas-cinating Römermuseum, where thelegionary fortress of Vindobonastood nearly 2,000 years ago. @ 45min. Hoher Markt 3. y 01 535 5606.www.wienmuseum.at. €4 adults, €3concessions (OAPs, VCs), free under19, free first Sun of each month.Tues–Sun 9am–6pm. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz).adding its impressive frescoes and afalse “dome” on a flat part of theceiling. Stand in the nave on thespot marked with a white stone tosee this ingenious illusion. @ 20min. Dr-Ignaz-Seipel-Platz. y 01 5125232. Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat–Sun8am–7pm. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor).! ★★★ Ruprechtskirche. I’malways captivated by the simplicity ofthis tiny ivy-clad Romanesquechurch—Vienna’s oldest. Set in aquiet, cobbled square off the beatentourist track, it is dedicated to St.Rupert, the patron saint of salt mer-chants and the first Bishop of Salz-burg. Salt barges would once havepassed by this church on the banks ofthe Danube. A statue of St. Rupert,clutching a barrel of salt, can be foundhalf-hidden among bushes behind thechurch. Visit in the morning when theancient stained-glass windows bathethe interior in brightly colored light.@ 20 min. Ruprechtsplatz. y 01535 6003. Free admission. Mon,Wed, Fri 10am–noon; Tues, Thurs2–4pm; Fri 9pm–midnight. U-Bahn1/4 (Schwedenplatz).@ ★★★ Hoher Markt. Most visi-tors head toward Vienna’s oldestsquare, site of a medieval fish mar-ket, to see the splendid Jugendstilclock known as the Ankeruhr. EveryThe Anker clock at Hoher Markt.You’re never far from a Würstelstand inVienna.
  • 74. 66TheBestNeighborhoodWalksThe BelvedereUUUSüdbahnhofAmHeumarktLandstrasserGürtelWiedner GürtelKärntner RingFavoritenstr.SchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrassePrinz-Eugen-Str.FavoritenstrassArsenalstr.Argentinierstr.NeulinggasseUngargasseFasangassKrugerstr.WalfischgasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrasseTaubstummen-gasseTheresianumgasseBelvederegasseKarolinengasseWeyringergasseViktorgasseRainergasseGrafStarhemberggasseKantgasseCanovagasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseMarrokaner-gasseÖlzeltgasseTongassVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergassePlösslgasseGerlgasseJacquingassArgentinierstr.MommsengasseGoldeggasseSchelleingasseKölblgasseMohsgasseHeeresmuseumstr.GhegastrasseLisztstr.LinkeBahngasseRechteBahngasseResselparkLothringerstr.RennwegUngargasseReisnerStr.BeatrixgasseLaxenburgerStr.BestattungsMuseumPalaisSchwarzenbergMuseumdes 20JahrhundertsBeethoven-platzSchwarzenberg-platzFasanplatzAnton-Weber-Platzs-sche-kBotanischerGarten DerUniversitätWienSchweizerGartenSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzWIEDEN4.TAUBSTUMMEN-GASSESÜDTIROLERPLATZSTADTPARKRussischeKircheSalesianer-klosterSüdbahnhofAmHeumarktLandstrasserGürtelWiedner GürtelKärntner RingFavoritenstr.SchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrassePrinz-Eugen-Str.FavoritenstrassArsenalstr.Argentinierstr.NeulinggasseUngargasseFasangassKrugerstr.WalfischgasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrasseTaubstummen-gasseTheresianumgasseBelvederegasseKarolinengasseWeyringergasseViktorgasseRainergasseGrafStarhemberggasseKantgasseCanovagasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseMarrokaner-gasseÖlzeltgasseTongassVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergassePlösslgasseGerlgasseJacquingassArgentinierstr.MommsengasseGoldeggasseSchelleingasseKölblgasseMohsgasseHeeresmuseumstr.GhegastrasseLisztstr.LinkeBahngasseRechteBahngasseResselparkLothringerstr.RennwegUngargasseReisnerStr.BeatrixgasseLaxenburgerStr.BestattungsMuseumPalaisSchwarzenbergMuseumdes 20JahrhundertsBeethoven-platzSchwarzenberg-platzFasanplatzAnton-Weber-Platzs-sche-kBotanischerGarten DerUniversitätWienSchweizerGartenSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzWIEDEN4.TAUBSTUMMEN-GASSESÜDTIROLERPLATZSTADTPARKRussischeKircheSalesianer-kloster1/4 mi00 0.25 km14236710115839MusikvereinKunstlerhausOtto Wagner PavilionsWien MuseumKarlskircheLower BelvedereBelvedere GardensUpper BelvedereMenagerieAlpine & Botanical GardensMuseum of Military HistoryU-BahnChurchPost OfficeMuseumWalking PathU87654321011139
  • 75. 67TheBelvedereIlove the extravagance of the Belvedere district. Vienna’saristocracy built their lavish summer residences in the coun-tryside here during the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, this charm-ing district of palaces and parks takes life at a sedate pace, despitebeing so close to the city center. START: Musikverein (U-Bahn 1/2/4Karlsplatz).1 ★★ Musikverein. Seep 13, 7.2 ★ Kunstlerhaus. The Artists’House was commissioned in 1868 bythe Austrian Artists’ Association as anexhibition hall for its members, and isstill a popular venue for temporaryexhibitions. Its architecture is a typicalexample of the Ringstrasse’s pomp-ous historical style. Karlsplatz 5.y 01 587 9663. www.k-haus.at. Daily10am–6pm (Thurs until 9pm). U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).3 ★★ Otto Wagner Pavilions.See p 33, 2.4 ★★★ Wien Museum. Seep 16, 1.5 ★★★ Karlskirche. The colos-sal dome of this high-baroquechurch dominates the square ofKarlsplatz on which it stands.Designed in 1716 by Fischer vonErlach, the Karlskirche showcasesthe work of the most importantarchitects and artists of the time. Itwas originally commissioned byEmperor Karl VI, who made a sol-emn vow to build a great churchduring a virulent outbreak of plaguein 1713. It is dedicated to theemperor’s namesake, St. Carlo Bor-romeo, the patron saint of plagues.Its remarkable architectural com-plexity pays homage to St. Peter’sBasilica in Rome, to the Romanemperors Augustus and Trajan, andto the Temple of Solomon in Jerusa-lem. St. Carlo sits happily on top ofthe portico alongside statues of Reli-gion, Mercy, Repentance, and Piety,flanked by two angels representingthe Old and New testaments. Thetriumphal pillars (modeled on Tra-jan’s Column in Rome and crownedby imperial eagles) show scenesfrom Borromeo’s life. Unlike somebaroque churches, the oval interioris light and airy, and its decoration isagreeably restrained. The frescoesby Michael Rottmayr are especiallyfine. Karlsplatz. y 01 504 6187.www.karlskirche.at. €6 adults, €4It’s hard to beat Karlskirche for Baroque architectural extravagance.
  • 76. 68TheBestNeighborhoodWalks9★★ Menagerie. The UpperBelvedere’s bistro is the perfectspot to enjoy a drink and a gooeycream-cake, or a light lunch afterviewing the galleries. There is asmall garden, which is open in sum-mer. Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27. y 01320 111 113. €€–€€€.6am–9pm; Nov–Mar 6:30am–6pm.Tram 71 (Unteres Belvedere) or TramD (Schloss Belvedere).8 ★★★ Upper Belvedere. Thefiner of Prince Eugene’s two sum-mer palaces now contains the Aus-trian Gallery, with art dating fromthe Middle Ages to the present day.Medieval and baroque art is foundat street level, with neoclassicism,Romanticism, and Vien-nese Biedermeieron the top floor.The real crowd-puller, however,is Austrian artfrom the 19thand 20th cen-turies, whichincludes theworld’s largest collection of worksby Klimt.students and kids, free under 10.Mon–Sat 9am–12:30pm and 1–6pm;Sun noon–5:45pm. Holy Mass Mon–Sat 6pm; Sun 11am and 6pm.U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).6 ★ Lower Belve-dere. Prince Eugeneof Savoy, the mostimportant militarycommander of his day,had not one but twograndiose baroquesummer residencesbuilt by JohannLukas von Hildeb-randt on a low hillwith exceptionalviews over the citycenter. The staterooms of the lowerpalace provide a fascinating insightinto baroque interior design, andcreate an impressive backdrop fortemporary exhibitions. @ 45 min;lunchtime is the quietest time tovisit. Rennweg 6. y 01 795 57 200.www.belvedere.at. €9.50 adults,€7.50 concessions, free under 19(combined tickets with the UpperBelvedere are also available). Daily10am–6pm (Wed until 9pm). Tram 71(Unteres Belvedere).7 ★★ =Belvedere Gar-dens. The two Belvedere palacesare linked together by a strictly sym-metrical French-style garden laidout on a gently sloping hill. Look outfor the white marble fountains,stone sphinxes (symbols of strengthand intelligence), and 12 charmingputti (cherubic statues) on the steps(representing months of the year).On the upper terrace, the spectacu-lar cityscape has barely changedover the centuries and is especiallydramatic at sunset. Little wonderthe palace is called “Belvedere”(Beautiful View). @ 30 min. Rennweg6/Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27.y 01 79841120. Free admission. Apr, Oct 6am–6pm; May–June 6am–8pm; July–AugStatue from the Upper Belvedere -Prince Eugene’s grand summer palace.0 ★★ Alpine & Botanical Gar-dens. Vienna’s Botanical Gardenswere created in the 18th century tocultivate medicinal herbs. Few peo-ple discover the tiny adjoiningAlpine Garden. It’s one of my favor-ite spots to sit and relax in summer.@ 45 min. Rennweg 14/LandstrasserGürtel 3. y 01 4277-54100. www.botanik.univie.ac.at. €3.20 adults,€2.80/€2.50 concessions, €1.30kids, free under 3. Daily Apr–Sept10am–6pm; Mar and Oct 10am–5pm; Feb 10am–4:30pm; Nov andmid-Jan–end Jan 10am–4pm; Dec tomid-Jan 10am–3:30pm. Tram D(Schloss Belvedere).
  • 77. 69TheBelvedereSECONDFLOORTHIRDFLOORFIRSTFLOORSECONDFLOORTHIRDFLOORFIRSTFLOORFeatured ExhibitsStairsFood & DrinkGift ShopInformation8A8B8E8D8F 8G8CUpper BelvedereStart in the “Vienna 1880–1900”section to admire an early Klimt por-trait of _ Sonja Knips (1898) inan Impressionistic style, and +Spring at the Prater by TinaBlau (1882). The next section—“Vienna around 1900”—marks ashift from historicism to modernity,through a series of { Impres-sionist paintings by Monet,Renoir, and Van Gogh. The high-lights of the museum’s Jugendstilcollection are in Room 3, withKlimt’s two famous “golden phase”pictures: } The Kiss (1907–8),and Judith (1901). Further note-worthy works by Klimt include |Adam and Eve (1917–18,Room 4) and the unfinished :Bride (1918, Room 5). Theremaining rooms move towardExpressionism with important worksby ! Schiele, Gerstl, Oppen-heimer, Boeckl, and Munch.@ 1 hr. Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27.y 01 795 57-0. www.belvedere.at.€9.50 adults, €7.50 concessions,free under 19 (combined tickets withthe Lower Belvedere are also avail-able), €3 audio guide, 30 min guidedtours cost €3 extra (11am, 12:30pmin German; 11:30am in English; noonin Italian). Daily 10am–6pm. Tram D(Schloss Belvedere).! ★★ =Museum of MilitaryHistory. Housed within the impres-sive, fortress-style Arsenal building,this superb museum presents thenation’s military prowess from the16th century to the present. @ 1 hr.Arsenal: Objekt 1, Ghegastrasse.y 01 795 61-0. www.hgm.or.at.€5.10 adults, €3.30 concessions,free under 19, free first Sun of eachmonth, €1.50 audio guide. Daily9am–5pm; tank garden 9am–4:45pm.Tram 18/0 (Fasangasse) or Tram D(Südbahnhof).
  • 78. 70TheBestNeighborhoodWalksSchottenring & AlsergrundUUWähringerStr.SchottenringPorzellangassPorzellangasseMosergasseHahngassFürstengasseTürkenstr.Maria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseSchickgasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseWSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseFrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.Lackierer-gasseWasagasseMüllnergasseThurngasseWallnerstr.ServitengasseTieferGrabenSchottengassePramergasseGrünentorgasseLiechtensteinstr.Schwarzspanierstr.LiechtensteinMuseumMoyaJosephinumMuseumSchlick-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBauernfeld-platzMauthe-PlatzBörse-platzLiechtensteinParkRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkSCHOTTENTORROSSAUERLÄNDEBurgtheateDasSchauspielhausKunstForumRathausMölkerBasteiWähringerStr.SchottenringPorzellangassePorzellangasseMosergasseHahngasseFürstengasseTürkenstr.Maria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseSchickgasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseWSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseFrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.Lackierer-gasseWasagasseMüllnergasseThurngasseWallnerstr.ServitengasseMölkerBasteiTieferGrabenSchottengassePramergasseGrünentorgasseLiechtensteinstr.Schwarzspanierstr.LiechtensteinMuseumMoyaJosephinumMuseumSchlick-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBauernfeld-platzMauthe-PlatzBörse-platzLiechtensteinParkRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkSCHOTTENTORROSSAUERLÄNDEBurgtheaterDasSchauspielhausKunstForumRathaus1/5 mi00 0.2 km1426758931033SchottenkircheFreyungCafé CentralPasqualati HausDreimäderlhausVotivkircheBörseSiegmund Freud MuseumServitenkircheSummer Stage3331089715426U-BahnPost OfficeTheaterMuseumWalking PathU
  • 79. 71Schottenring&AlsergrundThese intimate districts just north of the city center claim asurprising variety of sights, from the Freyung’s handsomepalaces to the laid-back university district of Alsergrund. The Ser-viten quarter is especially picturesque: Its cobbled streets, bou-tiques, and sidewalk cafes are Vienna’s answer to Paris’sSt.-Germain-des-Prés. START: Schottenkirche (U-Bahn 2 Schottentor).1 ★ Schottenkirche. Vienna’s“Scottish Church” has nothing to dowith Scotland. It was founded in1155 by Duke Heinrich II whobrought monks to Vienna from Ire-land (which was then known as Sco-tia Maior). The adjoining monastery(Schottenkloster) remained indepen-dent of ducal authority, and had theright to shelter asylum-seekers,hence the name of the squarehere—Freyung (from frey meaning“free”). The church was remodeledduring the baroque period, and it’sworth a peep inside to see the rich,if somewhat gloomy, interior. Frus-tratingly, the main nave is locked tovisitors except during services.@ 10 min. Freyung 6. y 01 53498200. www.schottenpfarre.at. Daily9am–8pm. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).2 ★★★ Freyung. This spacious,triangular, cobbled square is essen-tial viewing for architecture fans.Dominated by the Schottenkirche, itwas once the city’s main rubbishdump. Now, together with adjoiningHerrengasse (Lord’s Lane), itis lined with imposingbaroque palaces formerlyowned by the Viennesearistocracy. Many ofthese are currentlyused as governmentoffices and embas-sies. They includethe beautifullyrestoredPalais Kin-sky, PalaisHarrach(whereJosephHaydn’s mother was the familycook), and Italianate-style Palais Fer-stel, which housed the Vienna StockExchange until 1877. The quaintcovered alleyways and courtyardsof this district contain alluring bou-tiques and upmarket restaurants.Freyung Passage, leading to thefamous Café Central (see below), isparticularly elegant. In the middle ofthe square is the celebrated AustriaFountain, whose four bronze fig-ures symbolize the principal riv-ers of Austria–Hungary (theElbe, Vistula, Danube, andThe Schottenkirche’s towerdominates the Freyung square.The Freyung’s ‘Austria Fountain’.
  • 80. 72TheBestNeighborhoodWalks3★★ Café Central. This splendidcoffeehouse was once Vienna’s mostimportant literary rendezvous point,frequented by eminent local writerssuch as Kraus, Bahr, and Altenberg.Trotsky used to play chess with Sta-lin under the vaulted arches. Nowpopular with tourists, it serves reli-able (if pricey) cafe cuisine. Herren-gasse 14/corner Strauchgasse. y 01533 3764-26. €€.recounted in the 1920s’ operetta ofthe same name, which contains theViennese composer’s melodies.Schreyvogelgasse 10. U-Bahn 2(Schottentor).6 ★ Votivkirche. The strikingwhite sandstone Votive Church,designed by Heinrich von Ferstel,was erected as a thanksgiving aftera failed attempt on the life ofEmperor Franz Joseph in 1853. Itwas one of the first buildings con-structed on the new Ringstrasse,and is Vienna’s most importantexample of the neo-Gothic style,distinguished by its patterned roofand lacy twin spires. The interior israther impersonal, but it does con-tain some notable frescoes and acarved altar depicting the Passion ofChrist. Rooseveltplatz 8. y 01 4061192. www.votivkirche.at. Sun 9am–1pm; Tues–Sat 9am–1pm and4–6pm. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).7 ★ Börse. Vienna’s StockExchange is one of the most elegantbuildings on the Ringstrasse. Con-structed in 1877 by the acclaimedarchitect Theophil Hansen (who alsobuilt the Parlament and Burgtheater),Po), crowned by an allegorical statueof Austria. On alternate weekendsthe square is transformed into afarmers’ market (y 0664 531 7301for details), providing a chance totaste delicious organic produce fromLower Austria. Freyung. U-Bahn 2(Schottentor).Café Central - a celebrated touristhoney-pot.Votivkirche—easy to confuse in appear-ance with Stephansdom.4 ★★★ Pasqualati Haus. Seep 37, 1.5 ★ Dreimäderlhaus. Justround the corner from thePasqualati Haus, you’ll find one ofVienna’s most appealing Bieder-meier houses. Legend has it thatthree sweethearts (drei Mäderl) ofFranz Schubert once lived here, as
  • 81. 73Schottenring&Alsergrund0★★★ =Summer Stage. Aholiday atmosphere spreads alongthe Danube Canal during the sum-mer months. This lively alfresco barand restaurant zone, open fromMay through to September, offersplenty for all the family. Temptingeateries and cool cocktail bars linethe canal banks, providing livemusic and entertainment mostnights. Try Echo der City Thai (y 01533 8984, €) for Asian dishes, Char-lie Ps (y 0680 332 5402, €) forfish’n’chips, or Pancho und Mas!(y 01 319 0576, €–€€) for Tex-Mex cuisine. There’s also trampolin-ing, boules, beach volleyball, and akids’ club at weekends. RossauerLände. y 01 315 5202. www.summerstage.co.at. Mon–Sat5pm–1am; Sun 3pm–1am. U-Bahn 4(Rossauer Lände).it’s worth a visit to admire theextravagant baroque interior, whichserved as a model for the Karl-skirche. Frustratingly, you have topeer through iron railings, as thenave is only open during services.Servitengasse 9. y 01 317 6195-0.U-Bahn 4 (Rossauer Lände).it is noteworthy for its handsome redbrickwork (known locally as Hansen-rot) and white stonework cornices.Schottenring 20. y 01 531 650.www.wienerborse.at. Closed to visi-tors. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).8 ★ Siegmund Freud Museum.One of Vienna’s most famous citizens,the physician Siegmund Freud (1856–1939) lived in this apartment for mostof his life. The museum has few origi-nal artifacts or furnishings, but a fasci-nating photo gallery casts a revealinglight on the father of psychoanalysis.For decades, Freud was regarded as aleading figure in the world of medi-cine, but his Jewish background pre-vented him from becoming aprofessor of Vienna’s university until1902. He was eventually driven fromthe city by the Nazis in 1937. @ 30min. Burggasse 19. y 01 319 1596.www.freud-museum.at. €7 adults,€5.50/€4.50 concessions, €2.50kids, €2 audio guide. Daily 9am–5pm (July–Sept until 6pm). U-Bahn 2(Schottentor).9 ★ Servitenkirche. You’ll findthis little church in the middle of theatmospheric Serviten quarter. Eventhough it is a little out of the way,Dine al fresco at the Summer Stage.
  • 82. 74TheBestNeighborhoodWalksThe MuseumsQuartier (MQ)UUUSpitalgasseAlserstrasseHermanngasseBandgasseZieglergasseSchottenfeldgasseHalbgasseKirchengasseKellermanngasseHöfergasseMariannengasseSkodagasseLaudongasseKupkagasseKochgasseLammgasseLederergasseFuhrmanngassePiaristengasseFlorianigassePiaristengassePfeilgasseStrozzigassZeltgasseSiebensterngasseMyrthengasseNeubaugasseLangeGasseLazarettgasseSchönborngasseBurggasseBorschkegasseLeo Slezak GasseWähringerGürtelWähringerGürtelHernalserGürtelHernalserGürtelAlserstrasseKinderspitalgasseJörgerstrasseBreitenfeldergasseFlorianigasseJosefstädterstrasseLerchenfelder Str.NeustiftgasseKandlgasseWestbahnstrasseStolzenthalergasseBennogasseBlindengasseAlbertgasseTigergasseLerchengasseFeldgasseBernardgasseKaiserstrasseKenyongasseMuseum fürVolkskundeAllgemeinePoliklinikPrivatklinikJosefstadtKarl-Farkas-ParkSchönbornParkNEUBAU7.JOSEFSTADT8.ALSER STRASSEJOSEFSTÄDTERSTRASSETHALIASTRASSEMaria-TreuKlosterDreifaltigkeits-kircheTheater i.d.JosefstadtSpitalgasseAlserstrasseHermanngasseBandgasseZieglergasseSchottenfeldgasseHalbgasseKirchengasseKellermanngasseHöfergasseMariannengasseSkodagasseLaudongasseKupkagasseKochgasseLammgasseLederergasseFuhrmanngassePiaristengasseFlorianigassePiaristengassePfeilgasseStrozzigassZeltgasseSiebensterngasseMyrthengasseNeubaugasseLangeGasseLazarettgasseSchönborngasseBurggasseBorschkegasseLeo Slezak GasseWähringerGürtelWähringerGürtelHernalserGürtelHernalserGürtelAlserstrasseKinderspitalgasseJörgerstrasseBreitenfeldergasseFlorianigasseJosefstädterstrasseLerchenfelder Str.NeustiftgasseKandlgasseWestbahnstrasseStolzenthalergasseBennogasseBlindengasseAlbertgasseTigergasseLerchengasseFeldgasseBernardgasseKaiserstrasseKenyongasseMuseum fürVolkskundeAllgemeinePoliklinikPrivatklinikJosefstadtKarl-Farkas-ParkSchönbornParkNEUBAU7.JOSEFSTADT8.ALSER STRASSEJOSEFSTÄDTERSTRASSETHALIASTRASSEMaria-TreuKlosterDreifaltigkeits-kircheTheater i.d.Josefstadt123675834ZOOM KindermuseumLeopold MuseumKUNSTHALLE wienCafé-Restaurant Corbaci & HalleArchitekturzentrum WienMUMOK (Museum of Modern Art)SpittelbergJosefstadt8U-BahnHospitalInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterLibraryMuseumWalking PathU
  • 83. 75TheMuseumsQuartier(MQ)UUUUUUniversitäts-campusAltesAKH Univ. WienDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingWähringerStr.SchottenringPorzellangasseJosefstädterstrasseTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseSchick-gasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.RenngasseStrauchgasseSchauflergasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.JosefsgasseTrautson-gasseDoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseSchlössergasseWickenburggasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.Lackierer-gasseRotenhausgasseWasagasseVan-Swieten-gasseThurngasseFlorianigasse Wallnerstr.StadiongasseLöwelstr.BurgringOpernringMölker BasteiTieferGrabenThavonatgasseSchottengasseBurggasseLiechtensteinstr.Schwarzspanierstr.GarnisongasseLerchenfelder Str.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumSigmundFreudMueumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleBurgtorDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaJosephinumMuseumSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzO. Wagner-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzMauthe-PlatzFrankhplatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumVotivkircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterEnglishTheatreStiftskaserneKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastUniversitäts-campusAltesAKH Univ. WienDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.WähringerStr.SchottenringPorzellangasseJosefstädterstrasseTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseSchick-gasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.RenngasseStrauchgasseSchauflergasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.JosefsgasseTrautson-gasseDoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseSchlössergasseWickenburggasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.Lackierer-gasseRotenhausgasseWasagasseVan-Swieten-gasseThurngasseFlorianigasse Wallnerstr.StadiongasseLöwelstr.BurgringOpernringMölker BasteiTieferGrabenThavonatgasseSchottengasseBurggasseLiechtensteinstr.Schwarzspanierstr.GarnisongasseLerchenfelder Str.GutenbggasseNaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumSigmundFreudMueumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleBurgtorDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaJosephinumMuseumSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzO. Wagner-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzMauthe-PlatzFrankhplatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumVotivkircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterEnglishTheatreStiftskaserneKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-Palast1/4 mi00 0.25 km7 6321534
  • 84. 76TheBestNeighborhoodWalks4★★ My two favorite lunch spotshere are the airy, modern Cafe-Res-taurant Corbaci (Museumsplatz 1,y 0699 110 327 94, €€) with itsbeautiful geometric tiled ceiling andmouth-watering Austrian menu; andthe more sophisticated Halle cafe-restaurant (Museumsplatz 1, y 01523 70 01, €€), which servestempting soups, salads, and excel-lent value set lunch menus on itssunny terrace.It would be easy to spend all day at the MuseumsQuartier(Museum Quarter)—one of Vienna’s most popular areas. Ithas a superb mix of modern architecture, world-class galleries, andfamily attractions. However, just round the corner, two of the city’smost attractive and beguiling quarters also await your discovery—Spittelberg and Josefstadt—with their cobbled streets and enticingbars and restaurants. START: ZOOM Kindermuseum (U-Bahn 2,MuseumsQuartier).1 ★★★ =ZOOM Kindermu-seum. A superb interactivemuseum devoted primarily to kids.See p 44, 8.2 ★★★ Leopold Museum. Thismajor gallery hosts a leading collec-tion of 19th- and 20th-century Aus-trian art, belonging to Vienneseaficionados Rudolf and Elizabeth Leo-pold. The main Jugendstil and Seces-sionist collections are on Level 0,alongside some important canvasesby Klimt, Gerstl, and Moser, but themain draw is the world’s largestassembly of works by Egon Schiele.3 ★ KUNSTHALLE wien. Thetemporary exhibitions of modern artstaged here enjoy internationalrepute, despite their location withinan architecturally unremarkable red-brick building. This is also where thecity’s premiere modern dancevenue, Tanzquartier Wien (p 138),can be found. Museumsplatz 1.y 01 521 8933. www.kunsthallewien.at. €8.50 adults, €7 conces-sions. Daily 10am–7pm (Thurs until9pm). U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier).Relax in the MQ complex.5 ★ Architekturzentrum Wien.This small Architecture Center pro-vides a vivid account of 20th- and21st-century Austrian architecture,through models, interactive displays,and photographs. The only controver-sial omission is Hundertwasser (p 24),who is apparently considered to bemore of an artist than an architect.@ 45 min. Museumsplatz 1. y 01522 3115. www.azw.at. €7 adults,€4.50 concessions. Daily 10am–7pm. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).6 ★ MUMOK (Museum ofModern Art). The dramatic cuboidexterior of the Museum of ModernArt (MUMOK) is undeniably impres-sive, clad in sleek gray basalt. The
  • 85. 77TheMuseumsQuartier(MQ)Réalisme. Its acclaimed Pop Art sec-tion contains representative worksby Warhol, Jasper Johns, Liechten-stein, and Rauschenberg. Its Vien-nese Actionism collection—one ofthe most extreme of all modern-artinterior, although it lacks naturallight, contains a significant collectionof modern and contemporary art,covering a broad spectrum of genresfrom Cubism and Expressionism toPhoto Realism, Fluxus, and NouveauLeopold Museum2G2F2C2A2B2B2D2ELevel -2Level -4 Level -3Level 0Level -2Level -4 Level -3Level 0located onLevel 2located onLevel 2Level –2 contains the great jEgon Schiele Collection withnumerous drawings by one of themost notable early Existentialistsand Expressionists, including thepoignant Mother and Daughter(1913) and Edith Schiele in aStriped Dress (1915). On Level 0,the k Jugendstil and Seces-sionist paintings include can-vases by Schiele, Gerstl, and Klimt.The l cafe on Level 2 is worth astop, before moving on to the bril-liant collection of m Expression-ist and inter-war paintings onLevel 3. The real gems here areworks by Schiele (including Self-Portrait—1910), Kokoschka, Huber,Boeckl, and Oppenheimer; and then winter landscapes ofAlfons Walde, who worked foryears to perfect his portrayal ofsnow. Level 4 houses yet moreimpressive paintings by Klimt,including Attersee (1901), and thecelebrated o Death and Life(1911–15). Some exquisite p Wie-ner Werkstätte furniture anddecorative items by Moser, Loos,and Hoffmann can also be seen onthis floor. @ 2 hr. Museumsplatz.y 01 525 70-0. www.leopoldmuseum.org. €11 adults, €8 conces-sions, €3 audio guide. Sept–MayWed–Mon 10am–6pm (Thurs until9pm); June–Aug daily 10am–6pm.U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier).
  • 86. 78TheBestNeighborhoodWalkslaid out during his reign. This genteelresidential quarter feels like an 18th-century Viennese village, a mix of Bie-dermeier architecture, handsomechurches, curious shops, and smallleafy parks. At its heart is the popularJosefstadt Theater (Vienna’s oldest),and some friendly bars and restau-rants. The Maria Treu Kirche (1716) isthe finest church here, containing anorgan once played by the composerAnton Bruckner. Bring your binocularsto examine the frescoes on its splen-did baroque ceiling. Beethoven’sfuneral took place in the nearby Drei-faltigkeitskirche (Holy Trinity Church)in 1827. Just round the corner, thecharming Museum für Völkskunde(Folklore Museum) portrays rural Aus-trian life through handcrafted sculp-tures, rural paintings, and furniturefrom throughout the region. Josef-stadt’s elegance fades as youapproach the Gürtel ring-road, wherea host of late-night bars and clubscompete for your attention. Josef-stadt. Museum für Völkskunde:Laudongasse 15–18. y 01 406 8905.www.volkskundemuseum.at. €5adults, €3.50 concessions, free under19. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Tram 5/33,or Bus 13A (Laudongasse).•movements—is the largest in theworld. Frustratingly, only a smallselection of the overall collection ison display at any one time. @ 1 hr.Museumsplatz 1. y 01 52500.www.mumok.at. €9 adults, €6.50concessions, €7.20 OAPs, free under19. Daily 10am–6pm (Thurs until9pm) U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).7 ★★★ Spittelberg. Just behindthe MuseumsQuartier (between Bre-itergasse, Siebensterngasse, Sig-mundgasse, and Burggasse), thisromantic, pedestrianized district ofnarrow cobbled streets, with prettyBiedermeier houses and fountain-splashed squares, epitomizes old-world Vienna at its most appealing.Formerly a red-light district servicingthe nearby barracks, Spittelbergbecame a fashionable place to live inthe 1970s and is now one of thecity’s most desirable addresses: anenclave of galleries, beisls (traditionalAustrian country-style inns), andsidewalk cafes. The Christmas mar-ket held here is one of Vienna’s best(and certainly the most picturesque),selling high-quality handicrafts andGlühwein. www.spittelberg.at.U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).8 ★★ Josefstadt. When I’ve hadmy fill of the grand museums andmonumental architecture in the citycenter, one of my favorite districts toexplore is Josefstadt, named afterJosef I, as the plans for the area wereThe distinctive grey basalt façade of theMuseum of Modern Art (MUMOK).Atnon Bruckner once played at the MariaTreu Kirche in Josefstadt.
  • 87. 4 The Best Shopping
  • 88. 80TheBestShoppingBest for Treasure-Hunting★★ Dorotheum, Dorotheergasse 17(p 85)Best for Classical Music★★ Arcadia, Kärtnerstrasse 40(p 92)Best Lederhosen—for him★★★ Tostmann Trachten,Schottengasse 3a (p 87)Most Eccentric Dirndls—for her★★★ Lena Hoschek, Gutenberg-gasse 17 (p 87)Best Glass★★ J & L Lobmeyr, Kärtnerstrasse26 (p 86); ★★ Swarovski, Kärtner-strasse 8 (p 91)Best Cakes★★★ Sacher Confiserie,Philharmonikerstrasse 4 (p 89);★★★ Demel, Kohlmarkt 14(p 88)Best to Placate the Kids★★★ Mädchen und Buben,Servitengasse 4A (p 90)Most Trendy Interior Design★★★ Stilwerk, Praterstrasse 1(p 86)Best for Gourmands★★★ Meinl am Graben, Graben 19(p 88)Best Austrian Designs★★★ artup, Bauernmarkt 8 (p 87)Best Boutique forFashionistas★★ Mode Mühlbauer, Seilergasse5 & 10 (p 87)Best Hot-Date Lingerie★★ Wolford, Graben 16 (p 88)Best for Chocoholics★★★ Xocolat, Freyung 2 (Im Pas-sage) (p 90)Best Quirky Gifts★★★ MAK Design Shop,Stubenring 5 (p 91)Best Picnic Supplies★★★ Naschmarkt, Naschmarkt(p 89)Most Unusual Shop★★★ phil, Gumpendorferstrasse10–12 (p 86)Most EnvironmentallyFriendly Lifestyle★ Grüne Erde, Mariahilferstrasse 11(p 86)Best for Posh Porcelain★★★ Augarten, Spiegelgasse 3(p 85)Best for Maps & Travel Guides★★ Freytag & Berndt, Kohlmarkt 9(p 85)Most Stylish JugendstilSouvenirs★★ Lichterloh, Gumpendorferstrasse15–17 (p 86)Shopping Best BetsMozart gets everywhere—here he isselling chocolates.Previous page: Postcards ofHundertwasserhaus.
  • 89. 81ShoppingBestBetsUUUUUUUParkringKärntnerRingSchubertringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseHerrengasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseHabsburger-gasse Tegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Wallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseCobdengasseUnterViaduktgasseRosenbursenstrasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasse BayerngasseTongaRoJohannesgasseSalesSingerstr.Löwelstr.Linke BahngassRechte BahngassSeilerstätteBrandstätteKohlmarktBurgringOpernringG.-KellerLugeckGrabenBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.DorotheergasseAugustiner Str.WeihburggasseSLandstrasserHauptstr.Baumannstr.UngargasseReisner Str.BeatrixgasseBräunerstr.KunsthistorischesMuseumDom-U.Diözesan-MuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlungAlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleMozarthausBurgtorSt.ElisabethKrankenhausKunst-HalleKünstler-HausTheseus-TempelHelden-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzG.-Coch-PlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAmModena-ParkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt.Ursula-KircheMalteseFranzisk.-kircheSt.AnnaSt.MichaelerAugustinerChurchDominikaner-kircheKapuziner-kircheStephansdomSt.PeterMinoriten-kircheStaatsoperAkademie-theaterKammer-operMAK(MuseumfürAngewandteKunst)ParkringKärntnerRingSchubertringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseHerrengasseSchauflergasseSeitergasseHabsburger-gasse Tegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Wallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseCobdengasseUnterViaduktgasseRosenbursenstrasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasse BayerngasseTongaRoJohannesgasseSalesSingerstr.Löwelstr.Linke BahngassRechte BahngassSeilerstätteBrandstätteKohlmarktBurgringOpernringG.-KellerLugeckGrabenBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.DorotheergasseAugustiner Str.WeihburggasseSLandstrasserHauptstr.Baumannstr.UngargasseReisner Str.BeatrixgasseBräunerstr.Kärntnerstr.KunsthistorischesMuseumMAK(MuseumfürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlungAlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleMozarthausBurgtorSt.ElisabethKrankenhausKunst-HalleKünstler-HausTheseus-TempelSecessionHelden-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzG.-Coch-PlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAmModena-ParkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt.Ursula-KircheMalteseFranzisk.-kircheSt.AnnaSt.MichaelerAugustinerChurchDominikaner-kircheKapuziner-kircheStephansdomSt.PeterMinoriten-kircheStaatsoperAkademie-theaterKammer-oper1/4mi000.25kmU-BahnInformationChurchPostOfficeTheaterHospitalMuseumWalkingPathUAlbertina11Arcadia14Backhausen18BritishBookshop16Dorotheum10FreyWille13J&LLobmeyr12MichelMayer7ModeMühlbauer5MusikhausDoblinger3PetitPoint1RHornsWien2SacherConfiserie15SisiVienna17Swarovski6Trzesniewski42006Feb019WokaLampsVienna8110112465913161718158712143´Around KärtnerstrasseShopping
  • 90. 82TheBestShoppingUUUUUUUDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.WähringerStr. SchottenringMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseZelinka-gasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseWerdertorgasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseWipplingerstrasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.OperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungeng.Kärntnerstr.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgasseTreitlstr.StiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgasseWindmühlgasseeBreiteGasseKirchberggasseVolksgartenstr.Bellariastr.DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.WasagasseWallnerstr.SpiegelgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGrabenGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.Mariahilfer StrasseFriedrichstr.Schwarzspanierstr.Bräunerstr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorKunst-HalleLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumSecessionSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzDeutsch-meister-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftKapuziner-kircheSt. PeterVotivkircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.WähringerStr. SchottenringMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseZelinka-gasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseWerdertorgasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseWipplingerstrasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.OperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungeng.Kärntnerstr.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgasseTreitlstr.StiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgasseWindmühlgasseeBreiteGasseKirchberggasseVolksgartenstr.Bellariastr.DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.BerggasseTürkenstr.WasagasseWallnerstr.SpiegelgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGrabenGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.Mariahilfer StrasseFriedrichstr.Schwarzspanierstr.Bräunerstr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorKunst-HalleLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumSecessionSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzDeutsch-meister-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftKapuziner-kircheSt. PeterVotivkircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastManner 15Meinl am Graben 499 Wines 23Schönbichler 17Schullin 6Shakespeare & Co 12Song 24Stilwerk 22Tostmann Trachten 2Vienna Bag 18Wolford 5Xocolat 3Altmann & Kühne 14artup 13Augarten 10Böhle 20Demel 7Freytag & Berndt 8Herzilein Wien 19Kiehls 11Knize 9Lipizzaner 16Mädchen und Buben 1MAK Design Shop 2187104169352City Center North Shopping
  • 91. 83ShoppingBestBetsUUUUUUOberDonaustr.AmHeumarktParkringKärntner RingSchubertringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseHeinrichsgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Seiter-gasseHimmelpfortgasseJohannes-gasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseSchwarzenberg-str.Dumbastr.TaborstrassePraterstr.ZirkusgasseGlockengasseKleine SperlgasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgasseRotensterngasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.Krummbaum-gasseLiebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstrasseRotenturmstr.SonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasseÖlzeltgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.FlossgasseAspernbrückgasseLinkeBahngasseRechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.TandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseGriechengasseSalztorgasseUntere DonaustrasseTempelgasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseLandstrasserHauptstr.ReisnerStr.BeatrixgasseKarmelitergasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseTuchlaubenWienMuseumDom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzKarmeliter-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzG.-Coch-PlatzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzAnton-Weber-PlatzStadtparkHerrmann-ParkAmModena-ParkWilhelmkienzl-ParkSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZNESTROYPLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeMAK(Museum fürAngewandte Kunst)Universität fürAngewandteKunstOberDonaustr.AmHeumarktParkringKärntner RingSchubertringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseHeinrichsgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Seiter-gasseHimmelpfortgasseJohannes-gasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseSchwarzenberg-str.Dumbastr.TaborstrassePraterstr.ZirkusgasseGlockengasseKleine SperlgasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgasseRotensterngasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.Krummbaum-gasseLiebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstrasseRotenturmstr.SonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasseÖlzeltgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.FlossgasseAspernbrückgasseLinkeBahngasseRechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.TandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseGriechengasseSalztorgasseUntere DonaustrasseTempelgasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseLandstrasserHauptstr.ReisnerStr.BeatrixgasseKarmelitergasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseTuchlaubenWienMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandte Kunst)Dom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausUniversität fürAngewandteKunstKünstler-HausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzKarmeliter-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzG.-Coch-PlatzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzAnton-Weber-PlatzStadtparkHerrmann-ParkAmModena-ParkWilhelmkienzl-ParkSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZNESTROYPLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaDominikaner-kircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brücke1/4 mi00 0.25 km1920222324131114171521161812U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterHospitalMuseumWalking PathU
  • 92. 84TheBestShopping1UUUUURechteWienzeileKärntnerRingHauptstr.OperngassePrinz-Eugen-StrasseArgentinierstr.WiednerLinkeWienzeileJohannesgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.Kärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.Frankenberg-gasseKarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePaulanergasselingstr.KoperngasseSteggasselenenstr.SchadekgassKirchengasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseLindengasseGumpendorferStrasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreite GasseKirchberggassNeustiftgasseSiebensterngassePestalozzi-gasse CanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseSchleifmühlgasseLisztstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktResselparkBurggassessFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseRennwegMariahilferStrasseNaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumWienMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlungAlterMusikinstrumenteAlbertinaLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelKünstler-HausArchitektur-zentrumPalaisSchwarzenbergSecessionFoltermus.,Hausd.MeeresRilke-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzAlbertinaPlatzSchwarzenberg-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzterhazy-parkSchwarzenberg-GartenBurg-GartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkKarlsplatzNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERVOLKS-THEATERKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEUBAU-ASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSt.-UlrichStiftskircheSt.Ursula-KircheMalteseSt.AnnaSt.Joseph-kircheKarls-kircheMariahilf-kircheVolkstheaterTheateranderWienStaatsoperAkademie-theaterStiftskaseKUNSTHALLEwienRechteWienzeileKärntnerRingHauptstr.OperngassePrinz-Eugen-StrasseMuseumstr.Argentinierstr.WiednerLinkeWienzeileJohannesgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.Kärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.Frankenberg-gasseKarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePaulanergasselingstr.KoperngasseSteggasselenenstr.SchadekgassKirchengasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseLindengasseGumpendorferStrasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreite GasseKirchberggassNeustiftgasseSiebensterngassePestalozzi-gasse CanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseSchleifmühlgasseLisztstr.NeuerMarktSeilerstätteBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktResselparkBurggassessFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseRennwegMariahilferStrasseNaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumWienMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlungAlterMusikinstrumenteAlbertinaLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelKünstler-HausArchitektur-zentrumPalaisSchwarzenbergSecessionFoltermus.,Hausd.MeeresRilke-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzAlbertinaPlatzSchwarzenberg-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzterhazy-parkSchwarzenberg-GartenBurg-GartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkKarlsplatzNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERVOLKS-THEATERKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEUBAU-ASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSt.-UlrichStiftskircheSt.Ursula-KircheMalteseSt.AnnaSt.Joseph-kircheKarls-kircheMariahilf-kircheVolkstheaterTheateranderWienStaatsoperAkademie-theaterStiftskaseKUNSTHALLEwien1/4mi000.25kmU-BahnInformationChurchPostOfficeTheaterMuseumWalkingPathU4376812131011951412AllesSeife11Babette’s13BelvedereMuseum14dasmöbel>dasgeschäft8GrüneErde5HolzerGalerie2LaMaisond’Elisa1LenaHoschek3Lichterloh7MUMOK4Naschmarkt12phil6Piccini10Wein&Co9Mariahilf & Neubau Shopping
  • 93. 85ViennaShoppingAtoZMühlgasse 9. y 01 585 5165. www.babettes.at. MC, V. Bus 59a (Schleif-mühlgasse). Map p 84.★ British Bookshop CITY CEN-TER  There’s an excellent choice ofEnglish-language volumes here,from the latest blockbuster novelsand kids’ books to coffee-tabletomes about Vienna. Weihburg-gasse 24. y 01 512 1945. www.britishbookshop.at. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 81.★★ Freytag & Berndt CITY CEN-TER  A staggering collection of mapsand travel guides (many in English) onVienna, the Wienerwald, Austria, andthe rest of the world, housed in amagnificent Jugendstil house. Kohl-markt 9. y 01 533 8685. www.freytagberndt.at. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82.★★ Shakespeare & Co CITYCENTER  I could spend hoursbrowsing in this higgledy-piggledy,old-fashioned bookshop, containinga huge array of English-languagebooks (including Austrian authors intranslation). Sterngasse 2. y 01 5355053. www.shakespeare.co.at. MC,V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).Map p 82.Design & Interiors★★★ Augarten CITY CENTERSome of the exquisite patterns ofthe former imperial porcelain manu-facturer are centuries old, includinghand-decorated rose chinaware,designed in the 18th century forEmpress Maria Theresa. Spiegel-gasse 3. y 01 512 1494. www.augarten.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.★ Backhausen CITY CENTEROnce supplier to the famous WienerArt & Antiques★★ Dorotheum CITY CENTER Pick up some unusual and authentictreasures at this world-renownedauction house, which holds regularsales of paintings, furniture, jewelry,decorative objects, and toys. Doro-theergasse 17. y 01 515 60-0. www.dorotheum.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.★ Holzer Galerie SPITTELBERG Jugendstil and Art Deco items,including furniture and lighting, plusan impressive selection of periodjewelry. Siebensterngasse 32.y 0676 412 6417. www.galerieholzer.at. MC, V. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volks-theater). Map p 84.Beauty Products★ Alles Seife NASCHMARKT Gorgeous, almost good-enough-to-eat soaps in an astonishing array ofaromas—from honey and marzipanto sage, lemongrass, mandarin, andcoffee. Naschmarkt 54. y 06991161 1291. No credit cards. U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 84.★★ Kiehl’s CITY CENTER  It’s hardto believe this cult cosmetics brandstarted out over 150 years ago in asmall New York apothecary. This isAustria’s only branch. Their “FacialFuel” is a great pick-me-up for wearytravelers. Tuchlauben 23. y 01 5322011. www.kiehls.com. AE, DC, MC,V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Mapp 82.Books & Maps★★ Babette’s NASCHMARKT Floor-to-ceiling cookery books fromaround the world, plus herbs andspices, and a tiny bar serving a cou-ple of tasty, market-fresh dishesdaily. Schleifmühlgasse 17/cornerVienna Shopping A to Z
  • 94. 86TheBestShoppingWerkstätte in their glamorous chan-delier-lit showroom. Kärtnerstrasse26. y 01 512 0508. www.lobmeyr.at.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephans-platz). Map p 81.★★ Lichterloh MQ  This ultra-hipshop is filled with iconic designerfurniture, objets d’art, and lightingfrom Art Deco through Pop Art toclassic modernism. Upstairs is a rareantique glass display. Gumpendor-ferstrasse 15–17. y 01 586 0520.www.lichterloh.com. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier). Mapp 84.★★★ phil MQ  No two chairs ortables are alike in this unusual cafe/shop, where guests come not justto eat and drink but also to buy theconstantly changing retro furniture.Gumpendorferstrasse 10–12. y 01581 0489. www.phil.info. MC, V.U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier). Mapp 84.★★★ Stilwerk KARMELITERShopping center featuring exclu-sively state-of-the-art design shops:behan + thurm (www.behan-thurm.com) for office and home furnish-ings; Ma Maison (www.ma-maision.at) for tableware and accessories;Klimo (www.klimo-stilwerk.at) formodish lighting; and VerdariumWerkstätte, this seventh-generationtextile manufacturer still createsfabrics and accessories based ontheir original designs. Also amuseum and textile archive. Mahler-strasse /corner Schwarzenberg-strasse. y 01 514 04-0. www.backhausen.com. AE, DC, MC, V.Tram 1/2/71/D (Schwarzenbergplatz).Map p 81.★★ das möbel > das geschäftMQ  This spacious store, laid outlike an exclusive apartment, is theplace for seriously cool furnitureand innovative accessories byyoung up-and-coming Austriandesigners. Gumpendorferstrasse 11.y 01 924 3834. www.dasmoebel.at. MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuart-ier). Map p 84.★ Grüne Erde MQ  A trendy life-style department store, containingstylish, eco-friendly householditems, kitchen utensils, ceramics,candles, and other home comforts.Mariahilferstrasse 11. y 07615 203410. www.grueneerde.at. AE, DC,MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier).Map p 84.★★ J & L Lobmeyr CITY CENTERThe former imperial glass-makersspecialize in fine crystal glassware—rejuvenating designs from the WienerPhil’s—Not just a shop, but a café too.
  • 95. 87ViennaShoppingAtoZ★★ Mode Mühlbauer CITY CEN-TER  The labels here should set anykeen fashionista’s pulse racing. In amodern setting of black-and-whiteminimalism, it stocks creations bylocal and international designers.Eye-catching modern millinery andsophisticated accessories in a sisterstore across the street add the fin-ishing touches to any outfit. Seiler-gasse 5 and 10. y 01 513 7070.www.muehlbauer.at, www.modemuehlbauer.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.★★★ R Horns Wien CITY CENTERVisit this internationally celebrateddesigner to buy stylish but func-tional leatherware: purses, bags,briefcases—perhaps some extraluggage to carry all your souvenirshome. Bräunerstrasse 7. y 01 5138294. www.rhorns.com. AE, DC,MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Mapp 81.★ Sisi Vienna CITY CENTER  Aunique and elegant collection ofcontemporary Austrian designerfashions, influenced by the ward-robe of the city’s beloved “Sisi,”Empress Elisabeth (p 12). Annagasse11. y 0664 925 5666. www.sisi-vienna.at. MC, V. Tram 1/2/D (Oper).Map p 81.★★ Song KARMELITER  Ultra-trendy art and fashion from designersaround the world in this boutique-cum-art gallery. Praterstrasse 11–13.y 01 532 2858. www.song.at. AE,DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schweden-platz). Map p 82.★★★ Tostmann TrachtenSCHOTTENRING  For traditionalAustrian fashions and hand-embroi-dered dirndls, lederhosen, felt slip-pers, and beautiful patchwork in agenial rustic setting. Schottengasse3a. y 01 533 5331. www.tostmann.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Schot-tentor). Map p 82.(www.verdarium.at) for garden fur-nishings. Praterstrasse 1. y 01 21206 10 50. www.stilwerk.at. U-Bahn1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Map p 82.★ Woka Lamps Vienna CITYCENTER  Specialists in early 20th-century light designs, with authentichandmade replicas of Bauhaus,Jugendstil, and Secessionist lamps(plus some originals too). Singer-strasse 16. y 01 513 2912. www.woka.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.Fashion & Accessories★★★ artup CITY CENTER  Myfavorite shop for Austrian style—with bright, stylish, often unusual,and at times eccentric fashion, jew-elry, ceramics, and accessories bynew designers. Bauernmarkt 8.y 01 535 5097. www.artup.at. DC,MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).Map p 82.★★ Knize CITY CENTER  This old-fashioned, wood-paneled shop, cre-ated by interior-design genius AdolfLoos, offers classy, tailor-made, andprêt-à-porter menswear, with tradi-tional service at its finest. Graben13. y 01 512 2119. www.knize.at.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stepha-nsplatz). Map p 82.★★ Lena Hoschek SPITTELBERGTraditional Austrian meets rockabillyat this world-famous designer bou-tique, specializing in vintage dressesand dirndls with attitude. Gutenberg-gasse 17. y 01 293 2203. www.lenahoschek.com. MC, V. U-Bahn 2/3(Volkstheater). Map p 84.★★★ Michel Mayer CITY CENTERMix and match daytime separateswith floaty feminine designs in extrav-agant fabrics at the bijou boutique ofthis sought-after Austrian designer.Singerstrasse 7. y 01 967 4055.www.michelmayer.at. AE, MC, V.U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Mapp 81.
  • 96. 88TheBestShoppingFood & Wines★★ Altmann & Kühne CITY CEN-TER  The trademark mini-choco-lates sold by this old-fashionedconfectioner make perfect gifts,attractively packaged in tiny hand-made boxes decorated with tradi-tional Viennese scenes. Am Graben30. y 01 533 0927. www.altmann-kuehne.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.★★★ Böhle CITY CENTER  Thisminuscule deli-bistro is gourmandheaven, crammed with delectabletreats: fine cheeses, charcuterie,preserves and pickles, cakes, supe-rior wines, and seasonal fruit andvegetables. Wollzeile 30. y 01 5123155. www.boehle.at. DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 82.★★★ Demel CITY CENTER  Theimperial confectioners have bakedcakes and sweets for the rich andfamous for several centuries, andthe proof is in the eating. These tra-ditional tearooms are pricey butpopular. Kohlmarkt 14. y 01 5351717-0. www.demel.at. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82.★★★ Lipizzaner CITY CENTER  Awhite-chocolate version of the ubiq-uitous Mozartkugeln (Mozart choco-lates), Lipizzanertorten, and otherhorse-themed treats are the special-ties here. Stephansplatz 6. y 01512 5455. www.lipizzaner-austria.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 82.★★ Manner CITY CENTER  Vien-na’s favorite biscuit—a deliciousblend of wafer and hazelnutcream—makes an ideal snack tokeep you going between museumsand galleries. Stephansplatz 7.y 01 513 7018. www.manner.com.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stepha-nsplatz). Map p 82.★★★ Meinl am Graben CITYCENTER  Vienna’s top delicatessen★★ 2006Feb01 CITY CENTERTop designer fashions for men andwomen, in an architecturally strik-ing, very fashionable shop nearStephansdom, offering exemplaryservice. Plankengasse 3. y 01 5134222. www.2006feb01.com. AE, DC,MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).Map p 81.★★ Vienna Bag CITY CENTER  Atiny shop displaying feather-light,ultra-chic handbags of deceptivesimplicity made from fibreglass.They come in a dazzling range ofcolors— including my favorites,apple green and fuchsia— and arecurrently all the rage. Bäckerstrasse7. y 01 512 8080. www.vienna-bag.at. DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephans-platz). Map p 82.★★ Wolford CITY CENTER  Aus-tria’s best-known fashion brand isfamed for its high-quality hosiery,but Wolford has now diversified intoslinky lingerie and flattering swim-wear. Graben 16. y 01 535 1576.www.wolford.com. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Mapp 82.There’s always a mouth-watering displayat the former Imperial confectionery,Demel.
  • 97. 89ViennaShoppingAtoZaccording to type (fruity, earthy,spicy, exotic, sweet, dry, herbal)and body (light, medium or full).Tastings Thursdays from 7pm. Prat-erstrasse 11. y 01 890 05 76.www.99wines.at. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Mapp 82.★★ Piccini NASCHMARKT  Notonly does this Italian delicatessensell sensational antipasti, cold cuts,cheese, olives, oils, biscotti, nougat,and wine, but it also has an adjoininggourmet restaurant. Linke Wienzeile4. y 01 587 5254. MC, V. U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 84.★★★ Sacher Confiserie CITYCENTER  Indulge yourself withVienna’s most celebrated cake—therich, chocolate Sachertorte. You caneven ship them home beautifullypackaged in wooden boxes of vary-ing sizes. Philharmonikerstrasse 4.y 01 514 56-734. www.sacher.com.AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 1/2/D (Oper).Map p 81.★★ Schönbichler CITY CENTER A fragrant, wood-paneled shop, sell-ing over 150 varieties of teas, tea-pots, storage jars, and other teaaccessories. Seasonal blendsis known for its superb coffee, tea,chocolates, wines, and its impres-sive array of top-notch producefrom Austria and around the world.Graben 19. y 01 532 3334. www.meinlamgraben.at. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82.★★★ Naschmarkt NASCHMARKTVienna’s best and liveliest producemarket is the perfect place to shopfor a picnic, but with such a bewil-dering choice of food stalls it’s diffi-cult to know where to start.Appealing stands to look out forinclude Strmiska (248) for superbsauerkraut and pickled gherkins;Käseland (172) or Der Urbanek (46)for cheese and cold cuts; Poehl(158) for breads and olive oil;Gegenbauer (111–114) for unusual,flavored vinegars; and Oberlaa (175)for cakes and confectionery. Nasch-markt. Stalls: Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat6am–1pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz)or U-Bahn 4 (Kettenbrückengasse).★ 99 Wines KARMELITER  Helpfulshop with 45 red and 45 whitewines (all less than €20), sortedHead to Meinl am Graben for the bestcoffee in town.Käseland - a paradise for cheese loversat the Naschmarkt.
  • 98. 90TheBestShoppinglittle shop displays an eye-poppingselection of bar chocolate, flavoredcocoa powders, sauces, and fonduemixtures. Freyung 2 (Im Passage).y 01 535 4363. www.xocolat.at. AE,DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).Map p 82.For Kids★★★ Herzilein Wien CITY CEN-TER  A pretty pastel-colored shopcontaining adorable clothing for boysand girls (under 9), shoes, tastefultoys and teddies, and gorgeousappliquéd bed linen. Wollzeile 17.y 0676 657 7106. www.herzilein-wien.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3(Stubentor). Map p 82.★★★ Mädchen und BubenSCHOTTENRING  This small, neigh-borhood toyshop is great for gift-hunting, as it’s brimming withappealing dolls, puppets, educa-tional games, and old-fashionedwooden toys. Servitengasse 4A.y 01 968 6233. www.handpuppen.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 4 (Ros-sauer Lände). Map p 82.include “snowflake tea” and “Christ-mas tea.” Wollzeile 4. y 01 5121816. www.schoenbichler.at. AE, DC,MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).Map p 82.★ Trze1niewski CITY CENTERThis tiny, old-fashioned bar/shopsells the most delicious, bite-sizedopen sandwiches, just right for pre-venting hunger pangs during shop-ping or sightseeing. Dorotheergasse1. y 01 512 3291. www.speckmitei.at. No credit cards. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 81.★★ Wein & Co NASCHMARKTThis wine supermarket offers acomprehensive selection of winesfrom around the globe, includingsome excellent Austrian wines ataffordable prices. Try before youbuy in the adjoining winebar. Get-reidemarkt 1. y 01 585 7257.www.weinco.at. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Mapp 84.★★★ Xocolat SCHOTTENRINGEssential viewing for chocoholics, thisVienna’s traditional wooden toys always make special presents.
  • 99. 91ViennaShoppingAtoZMuseum Shops★★★ Albertina CITY CENTERThis expansive museum shop stocksan artistic A–Z of quality Viennesesouvenirs plus a superb choice ofart history and coffee-table books.Albertinaplatz 1. y 01 534 83-552.www.albertina.at. AE, MC, V. Tram1/2/D (Oper). Map p 81.★★★ Belvedere Museum BEL-VEDERE  Presents inspired byKlimt and his peers dominate thisgift shop. It’s also great for kids’gifts, as well as posters, scarves,calendars, and ties. Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27. y 01 795 57-0. www.belvedere.at. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram D(Schloss Belvedere). Map p 84.★★★ MAK Design Shop CITYCENTER  Even if you don’t visit themuseum, it’s worth coming here forthe latest Austrian lifestyle trends,and to pick up some special-editionpieces by local designers.Stubenring 5. y 01 711 36-228.www.makdesignshop.at. AE, DC, MC,V. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 82.★★ MUMOK MQ This shop iscrammed with eccentric goodiesand amusing presents for all thefamily—such as paper vases,Gifts & Viennese Souvenirs★ La Maison d’Elisa SPITTEL-BERG  Country-style home-furnish-ings and gardenware, traditionaltoys, candles, soaps, and character-ful gift ideas. Siebensterngasse 23.y 01 944 59 91. www.maison-elisa.at. MC, V. Tram 49 (Siebenstern-gasse/Stiftgasse). Map p 84.★ Petit Point CITY CENTER  Finepetit point inspired by the embroi-dery of Viennese court ladies duringthe rococo era. Delicate eveningbags and brooches make classicsouvenirs. Hofburg Passage 2.y 01 533 6098. www.maria-stransky.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3(Herrengasse). Map p 81.★★ Swarovski CITY CENTER  Theglittering crystal vases, jewelry, andaccessories produced by this cele-brated Tyrolean glass-maker enjoyan international reputation. Kidsespecially love the distinctive minia-ture animals. Kärtnerstrasse 24.y 01 324 0000. www.swarovski.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 81.Jewelry★★★ Frey Wille CITY CENTERDistinctive gold jewelry, scarves,ties, and cufflinks with strikingdesigns in luminous enamel colors,inspired by artists such as Monet,Klimt, and Hundertwasser. Lobkow-itzplatz 1. y 01 513 8009-14. www.frey-wille.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram1/2/D (Oper). Map p 81.★★ Schullin CITY CENTER  Theunusual modern wood-and-marblefacade of this family-run jewelerreflects the contemporary designand quality craftsmanship on dis-play inside. Kohlmarkt 7. y 01 5339007. www.schullin.com. AE, DC,MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Mapp 82.Schullin’s unusual façade was designedby Hans Hollein.
  • 100. 92TheBestShoppingbooks and musical memorabilia.Kärtnerstrasse 40. y 01 513 9568.www.arcadia.at. AE, DC, MC, V.Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Map p 81.★★ Musikhaus Doblinger CITYCENTER  One of Europe’s largestshops for sheet music, specialistbooks, and magazines covering allmusical genres from classical to rockand pop. Dorotheergasse 10. y 51503-0. www.doblinger.at. AE, DC, MC,V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Mapp 81.mobiles, puzzles, and doodlebooks—as befits a trendy, modern-art gallery. Museumsplatz 1. y 0152500. www.mumok.at. AE, DC, MC,V. U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier).Map p 84.Music★★ Arcadia RINGSTRASSE  Underthe arcades of the State OperaHouse, this music store sells anassortment of quality opera, ballet,and classical recordings, as well asYou’ll come across plenty of music themed souvenirs.Vienna is the home of the snow globe, invented by Erwin Perzyin 1890. The cheap, mass-produced imitations found elsewheremay seem no more than tourist kitsch, but those made here inVienna’s Hernals district are lovingly crafted by hand. The originalcompany (now run by Perzy’s grandson) makes over 200,000 snowglobes a year. A small museum at the factory displays some of themyriad designs. Schumanngasse 87. y 01 486 4341. www.viennasnowglobe.at. No credit cards. Mon–Thurs 9am–3pm. Tram 42(Antonigasse).Snow Globes
  • 101. 5 The GreatOutdoors
  • 102. 94TheGreatOutdoorsStadtparkPrevious page: The Donauinsel.UUUUAmHeumarkAmStadtparkParkringKärntnerRingSchubertrinWollzeilWeiskirchnerstr.sHimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.LiebenberggasseCobdengasseUnterViaduktgasseMarxergasseSpiegelgasseRiemergasseSchulerstr.KantgassePestalozzigasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasseBayerngasseÖlzeltgassJohannesgasseSingerstr.BeatrixgasseInvalidenstr.Rechte BahngassNeuerMarktSeilerstätteOpernringStubenringWeihburggasseLandstrasserHauptstr.Baumannstr.Reisner Str.BeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseVordereZollamtsstrasseMozarthausSt.ElisabethKrankenhausUniversitätfürAngewandteKunstKünstler-HausDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranzis-kanerplatzBeethoven-platzAlbertinaPlatzAnton-Weber-PlatzStadtparkLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt.Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt.AnnaKapuzinerkircheStaatsoperAkademie-theaterAmHeumarktAmStadtparkParkringKärntnerRingSchubertringWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.LiebenberggasseCobdengasseUnterViaduktgasseMarxergasseSpiegelgasseRiemergasseSchulerstr.KantgassePestalozzigasseCanovagasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseLothringerstrasseBayerngasseÖlzeltgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.BeatrixgasseInvalidenstr.Linke BahngassRechte BahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteOpernringStubenringWeihburggasseLandstrasserHauptstr.Baumannstr.Reisner Str.BeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseVordereZollamtsstrasseMozarthausSt.ElisabethKrankenhausUniversitätfürAngewandteKunstKünstler-HausDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranzis-kanerplatzBeethoven-platzAlbertinaPlatzAnton-Weber-PlatzStadtparkLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt.Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt.AnnaKapuzinerkircheStaatsoperAkademie-theater1/5mi000.2km34123StadtparkentranceKursalonWeinStatuaryMeirerei34321InformationChurchTheaterU-BahnWalkingPathMuseumHospitalU
  • 103. 95Stadtpark4 ★★ Meirerei. This riverside“milkbar” cafe, with trendy white-on-white decor (adjoining the celebratedgourmet restaurant Steirereck),serves superb breakfasts, lightsnacks, 120 different cheeses, andtraditional Austrian desserts. Am Heu-markt 2–4. y 01 713 3168. €€.Just outside the Ringstrasse, the “City Park” was once openground outside the city walls. Flanking the River Wien, it waslaid out in English landscape style in 1862. With its expansive lawns,shaded areas, playground, and duck pond, it is a popular and tran-quil destination for both tourists and locals just on the fringe of theinner city (although it is best avoided after dark). START: Stadtparkentrance (U-Bahn 4, Stadtpark).1 ★★★ =Stadtparkentrance. The main entrance (offJohannesgasse) is flanked by mag-nificent Jugendstil portals of carvedstone. The chase scene through thesewers at the end of The Third Manmovie—one of the most famous inthe history of cinema—was pro-duced under the bridge here. Seep 50.2 ★ Kursalon Wien. See p 137.3 ★ Statuary. Scattered aroundthe park you’ll find busts commemo-rating some of the many musiciansand artists associated with Vienna—Schubert, Bruckner, and Lehár arehere, together with landscapepainter, Emil Schindler (1842–92) andthe hugely influential artist, designer,and “magician of colors,” Hans Makart(1840–84). The park’s most famoustenant, however, is Johann Strauss II.The rather tacky, gilded statue of the“King of the Waltz” playing his violinnear the Kursalon is, without doubt,Vienna’s most famous (and muchphotographed) statue.The Kursalon—the place to hear Strausswaltzes.Viennese playgrounds are generally excellent, featuring plentyof sturdy swings, slides, sandpits, and tree-houses. The Stadtparkhas one of the best. Others can be found beside Karlskirche, in theRathauspark, at Börseplatz and, farther afield, at Schlichplatz (inAlsergrund) and Schönborn Park (in Josefstadt). The Prater has sev-eral wonderful playgrounds too (p 97). The Schönbrunn Park’sIrrgarten (Crazy Garden, p 108, 5) is the most eccentric, but themajority of parents like the one at the university campus best, as it’sright next to a beer-garden.Kids’ Playgrounds
  • 104. 96TheGreatOutdoorsPraterA23A4A4A22UUUUUUUUUUUUUDonauNeueDonauDonaukanalOber Donaustr.SchüttelstrasseParkringPrinz-Eugen-SWollzeileNeulinggasseUngargasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePraterstr.Hollandstr.MarxergasseJohannesgasseErdbergstr.WassergasseStubenringHauptalleeWittelsbachstrasseRennwegLandstrasser Hauptstr.Erdbergstr.HauptalleeHauptalleeHandelskaiWehlistrasseStadionalleeLusthausstrasseSchüttelstrasseMeierstrasseKaiseralleeEngerthstrasseVorgartenstrasseHandelskaiTrabrenn-strasseAspernalleeWeissgerberländeErdberger LändePraterPraterVenedigerAuArenberg-ParkSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkLANDSTRASSE3.N-STADIONKRIEAUMESSEPRATERPRATER-STERNTABOR-STR.NESTROYPLATZSCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEROCHUSGASSESTADTPARKKARDINAL-NAGL-PLATZSCHLACHTHAUS-GASSEDonauinselErnst-HappelStadionDonauNeueDonauDonaukanalOber Donaustr.SchüttelstrasseParkringPrinz-Eugen-SWollzeileNeulinggasseUngargasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePraterstr.Hollandstr.MarxergasseJohannesgasseErdbergstr.WassergasseStubenringHauptalleeWittelsbachstrasseRennwegLandstrasser Hauptstr.Erdbergstr.HauptalleeHauptalleeHandelskaiWehlistrasseStadionalleeLusthausstrasseSchüttelstrasseMeierstrasseKaiseralleeEngerthstrasseVorgartenstrasseHandelskaiTrabrenn-strasseAspernalleeWeissgerberländeErdberger LändePraterPraterVenedigerAuArenberg-ParkSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkLANDSTRASSE3.N-STADIONKRIEAUMESSEPRATERPRATER-STERNTABOR-STR.NESTROYPLATZSCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEROCHUSGASSESTADTPARKKARDINAL-NAGL-PLATZSCHLACHTHAUS-GASSEDonauinselErnst-HappelStadion46531323714353237PraterLusthausWienerPraterMadameTussaud’sRiesenradZeissPlanetariumSchweizerhaus61/2mi000.5km
  • 105. 97Prater2★★ Lusthaus. This unusual18th-century octagonal pavilion atthe heart of the Prater woods wasoriginally built as a hunting lodge.Now converted to a restaurant, itretains its imperial dignity and is apopular choice with locals for spe-cial occasions. Try the game dishesin season—the venison with freshherbs and cranberries is especiallytasty. Freudenau 254. y 01 7289565. €€–€€€.On sunny days, all year round, there’s nothing I enjoy morethan strolling in this vast and famous park alongside theDanube. Here you can wander at will past the Wiener Prater amuse-ment park with its famous giant Ferris wheel, through woodland andvast sunbathing meadows to one of its fine beer-gardens. This is oneof the best places in the city to watch the Viennese at play. START:Prater (U-Bahn 3 Erdberg; U-Bahn 2, Ernst Happel Stadion).1 ★★★ =Prater. In 1766, JosefII opened the old imperial huntinggrounds to the public, creating ahuge tract of recreational parkland.The Prater is now Vienna’s most pop-ular park and one of its main “greenlungs,” criss-crossed by a maze ofquiet paths and streams meanderingthrough open fields and mixedwoodland. The less well-lit parts ofthe park are best avoided after dark,however, as it is a well-knownhotspot for petty crime. It is a majorsporting venue, containing the ErnstHappel football stadium, and a trot-ting stadium, which stages interna-tional trotting races from Septemberthrough June. Its golf course, tenniscourts, and swimming pool appeal tosports enthusiasts, while kids lovethe vast open spaces for picnics,games, and tree-climbing. It has well-equipped playgrounds, skateboardand BMX courses for older children,pony-riding (on the fringes of theWurstelprater), and even a mini-train(the Liliput-Bahn) which tours thepark every 30 minutes from 10am to7pm (from the Riesenrad). You canhire a bike or some rollerblades (seeBike Rentals, p 162) or take a smallboat on the Heustadlwasser. A broadavenue (known as the Hauptallee),planted with ancient chestnut trees,represents the park’s backbone,stretching 5km (3 miles) from theidyllic Green Prater to the Wurstel-prater funfair zone. U-Bahn 2 ( MessePrater, Krieau or Stadion). www.prater.at.The Lusthaus restaurant was once animperial hunting lodge.3 ★ =Wiener Prater. At thewestern end of the Prater, you cantravel on a ghost train, ride a tradi-tional merry-go-round, or drive a
  • 106. 98TheGreatOutdoorssideshows, and fast-food stands, it’sone of Vienna’s top leisure attrac-tions—a colorful, noisy spectaclefor all the family. Don’t miss thewatery Donau-Jump; the revolvingDizzy Mouse; or the high-octaneVolare roller-coaster for the ultimateadrenalin rush. New in 2011, theVienna Airlines ride takes you on abreathtaking whistle-stop tour overthe rooftops of Vienna in a 5D flightsimulator that stimulates all yoursenses by using motion, fan, andscent devices. y 01 728 0516.www.prater.at. Free admission;rides cost between €1 and €10.Vienna Airlines €5; www.vienna-airlines.at.Mid-Mar–Oct 10am–1am.U-Bahn 1/2 (Praterstern).4 ★★ =Madame Tus-saud’s. Rub shoulders with the richand famous at this branch of thefamous waxworks. Expect to seelife-sized (and remarkably lifelike)wax models of Barack Obama,dodgem car at the Wurstelprater—the world’s oldest amusement park.In the 19th century, it consisted of afew inns, coffeehouses, badmintoncourts, a bowling alley, and a Ferriswheel, which was built to amuse theViennese working classes. Now,with over 250 hi-tech rides,Display inside the Vienna Airlines ride at Wiener Prater.Wiener Prater is one of Vienna’s topleisure attractions.
  • 107. 997★★★ =Schweizerhaus.There’s always a lively crowd in thisenormous beer-garden, which seats1,300. Try the specialty crispy Stelzen(pigs’ trotters) or one of several otherauthentic Bohemian specialties, allwashed down with the best CzechBudvar beer in town. Strasse desersten Mai 116. y 01 728 0152-13.Mid-Mar to Oct Mon–Fri 11am–11pm;Sat–Sun 10am–11:30pm. €€.PraterJohnny Depp, Britney Spears, andMichael Jackson alongside suchAustrian celebrities as composerFranz Schubert, Empress Sisi (p 29),Hollywood action hero-cum-US poli-tician Arnold Schwarzenegger, andphysician and psychoanalyst Sieg-mund Freud (p 73). Riesenradplatz.y 01 890 33 66. www.madametussauds.com/wien. €18.50 adults,€17.50 concessions, €14.50 kids,€60 family ticket. Daily 10am–6pm(last entry at 5pm). U-Bahn 1/2(Praterstern).5 ★★★ =Riesenrad. Myfavorite ride at the Wurstelpraterfunfair is the world-famous Riesen-rad, or Ferris wheel. Gliding slowlyto a height of 67m (200 ft) above therooftops, you catch awesome viewsof Vienna, “UNO City” (p 101, 6),and the Wienerwald beyond. Thisgiant 100-year-old structure wasbuilt by an Englishman named Wal-ter Basset, and is one of the city’sgreat landmarks, immortalized inthe movie The Third Man. It takes 20minutes to complete one circuit andis especially magical (and thereforeoften busier) at night. As well as theride there’s also a charming smallmuseum in the entrance area, whichillustrates the history of the wheeland the city in miniature—all con-tained within some of the Riesen-rad’s old red cabins. For a reallyspecial occasion, you can hire out acabin for a romantic dinner ordrinks. Wurstelprater. y 01 7295430. www.wienerriesenrad.com.€8.50 adults, €3.50 kids, €21 familycard. Jan–Feb 10am–7pm; Mar–24thApr, Oct 10am–9:45pm; 25th Apr–Sept 9am–11:45pm; Nov–Dec 10am–7:45pm. U-Bahn 1/2 (Praterstern).6 ★ =Zeiss Planetarium.The state-of-the-art Zeiss projectorenables budding astronomers toThere’s plenty to amuse the kids at thePrater.star-gaze into the skies above thePrater—over 9,000 stars are visibleon a clear night—or to enjoy one ofthe exciting film shows, which aregeared toward a young audience.Oswald-Thomas-Platz 1. y 01 7295494. www.astronomie-wien.at. €8adults, €6 kids. Phone for showtimes. U-Bahn 1/2 (Praterstern).
  • 108. 100TheGreatOutdoorsThe DanubeA22A22UUUUUDonauNeueDonauAlteDonauVorgartenstr.InnstrasseEngerthstrasseHandelskaiWehlistrasseFlosridusgasseNormanngasseDückegasseSchüttaustrasseWagramerstrasseDonauCityStrasseKugelfanggasseSandrockgasseBimeckergasseWalkergasseWarhanekgasseFloridsdorfer-BundesstrasseLeonard-BersteinstrasseNordbahnstrassDonauturmstrasseArbeiterstrandbadstrasseAn der Oberen Alten DonauAllerheiligen-platzMortara-platzDonauparkWasserparkDONAUINSELKAISERMÜHLEN-VICALTE DONAUNEUEDONAUHANDELSKAIDonauinsel1426533Danube Canal CruiseAlte DonauStrandgasthaus BirnerDonauinselDanube ParkVienna InternationalCenter (VIC)6542133U-BahnWalking PathU1/2 mi00 0.5 kmIlove the majestic River Danube (known as the Donau inVienna), even if it isn’t strictly blue, as Strauss’s celebratedwaltz insists. Its status as a major European waterway is indisputable,flowing 2,860km (1,777 miles) from Germany’s Black Forest throughAustria to the Black Sea. Yet in Vienna it simply offers a huge recre-ational area in which to relax, sunbathe, sail, and swim—all just astone’s throw from the city center. START: Danube Canal cruise.1 ★★★ =Danube CanalCruise. See p 22, 2.2 ★★★ =Alte Donau. The“Old Danube” carried the main flowof the river until 1875 when itscourse was changed to preventflooding, turning it into a vast, land-locked expanse of water. Ever since,it has been a favorite destination forViennese bathers and boating enthu-siasts. Boats can be hired at EppelBoote (Wagramer Strasse 48a). The largest and most popular ofseveral beach complexes here isGänsehäufel (Goose Island), whichhas kids’ pools, water slides, beachvolleyball, cafes, playgrounds, andmini-golf. Alte Donau: @ 2 hr.U-Bahn 1 (Alte Donau). Gänsehäufel:Moissigasse 21. y 01 269 9016.www.gaensehaeufel.at. May–SeptMon–Fri 9am–7pm; Sat–Sun 8am–7pm. €4.70 adults (€3.70 for half-day), € 1.60 kids. U-Bahn 1(Kaisermühlen-VIC), then Bus90a/91a/92a to Schüttauplatz.
  • 109. 101TheDanube3 ★★★ Strandgasthaus Birner.Little has changed since this beachrestaurant on the Alte Donauopened in the 1930s. It has a sunnyriverside terrace, superb fish spe-cialties, and traditional Viennesecuisine. Obere Alte Donau 47. y 01271 53 36. €€.loved by locals for its maze of cyclelanes and footpaths, rose-garden,playgrounds, giant chess, mini-train,open-air theater, beaches, and pet-ting zoo. Vienna’s tallest structure,the Donauturm (Danube Tower)rises 252m (826 ft) above the park.Whizz up the lift on a clear day toadmire the sweeping vistas extend-ing as far as Hungary and the Alps.There’s a revolving cafe and restau-rant at the top. @ 2 hr. Donauturm-strasse 4. y 01 263 3572. www.donauturm.at. Daily 10am–midnight.€6.90 adults, €4.90 kids, free under6. U-Bahn 1 (Kaisermühlen-VIC).6 ★ Vienna InternationalCenter (VIC). This ultra-moderncluster of Y-shaped skyscrapers ishome to numerous internationalorganizations. It serves as one ofthe United Nations’ four headquar-ters (along with New York, Geneva,and Nairobi), hence its local nick-name “UNO City.” Take a guidedtour for a rare insight into the variedwork of the U.N. @ tours last 1 hr;you need a passport to get in.Wagramerstrasse 5. y 01 26060-3328. www.unvienna.org. €6adults, €4 concessions, €3 kids.Mon–Fri 11am and 2pm (also12:30pm from July–Aug). U-Bahn 1(Kaisermühlen-VIC).4 ★★ =Donauinsel. The Dan-ube Island was created in the 1980swhen the Neue Donau (New Danube)was constructed parallel to the mainriver to prevent flooding. Criss-crossed by paths and with over 40km(25 miles) of Schotterstrände (gravelbeaches), this tiny sliver of land is aparadise for cyclists, walkers, swim-mers, and sunbathers. Bikes, inlineskates, and boats are available forhire. The tips of the island are desig-nated nudist zones. In late June theisland hosts the hugely popularDonauinselfest—a three-day festivalof rock, pop, and folk music whichdraws up to three million fans annu-ally. @ 1 hr. www.donauinsel.at.U-Bahn 1 (Donauinsel).5 ★★ =Danube Park. Vien-na’s second-largest park was laidout in 1964 for the first Vienna Inter-national Garden Show. Located onthe site of a former military paradeground called Kagran, it is muchThe Danube cruises offered by Blue Danube Shipping (y 014000 49 495) pass some of the finest river scenery in Europe. A sum-mer day tour into the wine country of Austria’s Wachau region (withtime to visit Melk’s impressive baroque abbey) is especially reward-ing. Visit the Slovakian capital, Bratislava, just 11⁄4 hours away byhigh-speed catamaran. Or take a half-day trip to Lobau NationalPark—an unspoilt wetland area with exceptional flora and fauna justoutside the city.Danube Boat Trips
  • 110. 102TheGreatOutdoorsGrinzingHeiligenstädterParkStifswaldGRINZINGNUSSDORFHimmelstrasseGrinzingerStrasseStrassergasseAslangasseLangackergasseDennwegWildgrubgasseechergasseCobenzigasseHöhenstrasseObererReisenbergwegReinischgasseBellevuestrasseSandgasseSchreiberwegUnterer SchreiberwegKahlenberger StrasseKrapfenwaldgasseProbusgasseArmbrustergasseGrinzingerSteigRingwegHeiligenstädterParkStifswaldGRINZINGNUSSDORFHimmelstrasseGrinzingerStrasseStrassergasseAslangasseLangackergasseDennwegWildgrubgasseechergasseCobenzigasseHöhenstrasseObererReisenbergwegReinischgasseBellevuestrasseSandgasseSchreiberwegUnterer SchreiberwegKahlenberger StrasseKrapfenwaldgasseProbusgasseArmbrustergasseGrinzingerSteigRingwegReisenbergwegGrinzingZumMartinSepp(a)&HansMaly(b)Heiligenstadt1423342133b33a1/4mi000.25km
  • 111. 103Grinzing3 ★★★ Two of my favorite Heuri-gen lie close together. Zum MartinSepp (Cobenzlgasse 34, y 01 3203233, €€) has a jolly courtyard gar-den and serves nourishing barmeals. Hans Maly (Sandgasse 8,y 01 320 1384, €) also has a pic-turesque garden, but serves simplerfare. Like many Heurigen, bothoften offer live music. They are lesstouristy out of season.In the northwestern outskirts of Vienna lies a region of pic-turesque old wine villages and vineyard-striped hills. This iswhere the prestigious Grüner Veltliner white wines are produced.Grinzing is one of the best-known and popular wine villages, notedfor its quaint old houses and gemütlich (cozy) wine taverns, or Heuri-gen, usually marked by a bunch or wreath of pine sprigs. START:Cobenzl Parkplatz (U-Bahn 4 Heiligenstadt, then bus 38a CobentzlParkplatz).1 ★★★ =Reisenbergweg. Onarrival at Cobenzl (450m/1476ft),pause awhile to admirethe breathtaking viewsover Vienna (there’s acoffeehouse and pettingfarm here too). Cross theroad and descend a nar-row country lane (ObererReisenbergweg) throughthe vineyards to the vil-lage of Grinzing, stoppingfor your first tipple of localwine at Weingut am Reisen-berg (Thurs–Sat 5–11pm, Sun1–11pm (until 9pm in winter))halfway down. Mozart wroteto his father in 1781 “I live just onehour away from Vienna. It’s called Rei-senberg and it’s very pleasant here!”Bus 38a (Cobenzl Parkplatz).2 ★★★ Grinzing. Grinzing has pre-served its charming village character,despite the large number of touristswho frequent its numerous Heurigen.Most of the romantic old vintners’houses date from the 16thand 17th centuries. Grinz-ing has many associationswith historical celebrities:Schubert wrote some ofhis songs on local out-ings, and Strauss com-posed his Tales from theVienna Woods nearby.The secret of dreams wasrevealed to Freud here, andMahler is buried in the vil-lage cemetery. Bus 38a(Grinzing).The view from the Reisenbergweg.Each Heurige hasits own crest.4 ★★ Heiligenstadt. Beethovenspent a number of summers in Heili-genstadt, hoping that the countryair would alleviate his deafness.You can visit one of his apartments(Probusgasse 6; y 01 370 5408;Tues–Sun 10am–1pm and 2–6pm).Nearby, rustic Mayer am Pfar-rplatz is one of Vienna’s top Heuri-gen (Pfarrplatz 2; y 01 370 1287).Bus 38A (Fernsprechamt).
  • 112. 104TheGreatOutdoorsSchönbrunnGlorietteSchlossSchönbrunnparkTirolerGartenMaxingParkHadikparkFasangartanIrrgartenHadikgasseHadikgasseSchönbrunner SchlossstrasseE.-Klein-gasseHietzinger KaiHietzinger HaupstrasseAltgasseTrauttmansdorff-gasseMaxingstrasseHietzingerHaupstrasseNeptune’sFountainHietzingCemeteryGlorietteSchlossSchönbrunnparkTirolerGartenMaxingParkHadikparkFasangartanIrrgartenHadikgasseHadikgasseSchönbrunner SchlossstrasseE.-Klein-gasseHietzinger KaiHietzinger HaupstrasseAltgasseTrauttmansdorff-gasseMaxingstrasseHietzingerHaupstrasseNeptune’sFountainHietzingCemetery1/4 mi00 0.25 km7336Walking Path
  • 113. 105SchönbrunnAuer-WelsbachParkSchönbrunner SchlossstrasseLinke WienzeileRechte WiezeileSchönbrunner SchlossstrasseSechshauser StrasseWeiglgasseSiebeneichengasseWinckelmannstrasseSchlossalleeSchlossalleeSchlossalleeSchönbrunner StrasseGrünbergstrasseGrünbergstrasseTivoligasseBischoffgasseSchwenkgasseGatterholzgasseRotenmühlgasseRatschkygasseHohenbergstrasseWeissenthurngasseGassmannstrasseKrastelgasseWienflussAuer-WelsbachParkSchönbrunner SchlossstrasseLinke WienzeileRechte WiezeileSchönbrunner SchlossstrasseSechshauser StrasseWeiglgasseSiebeneichengasseWinckelmannstrasseSchlossalleeSchlossalleeSchlossalleeSchönbrunner StrasseGrünbergstrasseGrünbergstrasseTivoligasseBischoffgasseSchwenkgasseGatterholzgasseRotenmühlgasseRatschkygasseHohenbergstrasseWeissenthurngasseGassmannstrasseKrastelgasseWienflussSchönbrunn PalaceImperial ApartmentsWagenburgOrangerie imSchloss SchönbrunnSchlossparkGlorietteSchönbrunn Zoo142375365421
  • 114. 106TheGreatOutdoorsWhat Versailles is to France, Schönbrunn is to Austria.This grandiose baroque palace was once the summer resi-dence of the imperial family. It is hard to believe that it began life asa simple hunting lodge, built by Maximilian II in 1569, taking its namefrom the “beautiful spring” found here. Now listed as a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site, it is Vienna’s most-visited historic building.START: Schönbrunn Palace (U-Bahn 4, Schönbrunn).1 ★★★ =Schönbrunn Pal-ace. Leopold I commissioned thegreat architect Fischer von Erlach tobuild a monumental palace here forhis son in the 17th century. Itremained incomplete until EmpressMaria Theresa added another floorto accommodate her 16 children,supervised the interior design andthe layout of the grounds, andpainted it her favorite color—Schön-brunnergelb (Schönbrunn yellow).2 ★★★ Imperial Apartments.Maria Theresa is the monarch mostclosely associated with the palace.She lived here with her entourage of1,500 staff and courtiers. The staterooms with their extravagant rococodecor give an evocative insight intoher lifestyle. Of the two guided tourson offer, choose the “Grand Tour”which visits 40 rooms (out of nearly2,000 in total)—the Imperial Tourcovers only 22 rooms, not includingthe impressive west wing.3 ★ Wagenburg. It is fun towind the clocks back to olden timesat the Imperial Carriage Collection,with its magnificent horse-drawncarriages, sedan chairs, and fai-rytale sleighs housed in the WinterRiding School. @ 30 min. Schönb-runner Schlossstrasse. y 01 52524-0. www.khm.at. €6 adults, €4concessions, free under 19, €2 audioguide, €3 tour. Daily May–Oct 9am–6pm; Nov–Apr 10am–4pm. U-Bahn 4(Schönbrunn).4 ★ Orangerie im SchlossSchönbrunn. This grand 18th-cen-tury edifice is the world’s second-largest baroque orangery afterVersailles. Part of it is still used toover-winter citrus trees. The othersection hosts nightly Mozart andStrauss concerts, performed by theSchoenbrunn Palace—Vienna’s most visited attraction.
  • 115. 107Schönbrunnmemorable scenes in the movieAmadeus). In case you’re wonder-ing … Salieri won. SchönbrunnerSchlossstrasse. y 01 812 5004-0.www.imagevienna.com. TicketsSchönbrunn Palace Orchestra. Inthis setting in 1785, Mozart and hislifelong adversary Antonio Salierivied for supremacy in a composers’competition (one of the mostImperial Apartments2A2B2E2D2CChurchStairs to next floorThe tour starts in the private roomsof Elisabeth (Sisi) and Franz Josef. Ahighlight of the state apartments isthe j ★★ Hall of Mirrors,where the 6-year-old Mozart firstplayed the clavichord to Maria The-resa in 1762. His virtuoso perfor-mance was soon the talk of thetown, laying the foundations for hismeteoric rise to fame. The k ★★Great Gallery is dominated bythree enormous ceiling frescoes cel-ebrating the glory of the Habsburgs,and illuminated by magnificentchandeliers. In the painting of Isa-bella’s wedding procession in l ★Hall of Ceremonies, each of the98 coaches belonging to the aristoc-racy of Europe is identifiable by itsfamily insignia. Maria Theresaclearly had expensive tastes; shespent a million silver florins on therosewood paneling and pricelessminiatures in the m ★★★ MillionRoom. Finally, don’t miss the n★★ Blue Chinese Room whereKarl I abdicated in 1918, endinga remarkable six centuries ofHabsburg rule. @ 2 hr; early morn-ing is very busy, lunchtime is the qui-etest time to visit. SchönbrunnerSchlossstrasse. y 01 811 13-239.www.schoenbrunn.at. Grand Tour(40 rooms)/Imperial Tour (22 rooms):€13.50/€10.50 adults, €12.20/€9.50concessions, €9.50/€7.50 kids(6–18). Apr–June, Sept–Oct 8:30am–5pm; July–Aug 8:30am–6pm; Nov–Mar 8:30am–4:30pm. U-Bahn 4(Schönbrunn).
  • 116. 108TheGreatOutdoors6 ★★ Gloriette. This immenseneoclassical arcade was built tocommemorate the Austro-Hungar-ian victory over the Prussians in1775. Sited high on a hill overlook-ing the palace and gardens, withthe city as a distant backdrop, itsupmarket cafe affords sensationalviews, especially at sunset. Theweekend buffet brunches (€29) areexcellent. Schlosspark. y 01 8791311. €€.7 ★★★ =Schönbrunn Zoo.Take a break from all the art, music,and culture, and visit the zoo—Vien-na’s most-visited attraction afterSchönbrunn Palace. It’s the oldestzoo in the world, founded in 1752by Emperor Franz I. Some of the750-plus animals are housed in orig-inal baroque buildings. You cantravel round the enclosures by mini-train. Current crowd-pullers includepolar bear twins, Fu Long the panda(b. 2007), and Tuluba (Big Ears) theelephant (b. 2010). @ 2 hr; avoidSat–Sun and school holidays if possi-ble. Maxingstrasse 13b. y 01 8779294. www.zoovienna.at. €14adults, €6 concessions and kids,free under 6. Feb 9am–5pm; Mar9am–5:30pm; Apr–Sept 9am–6:30pm; Oct–Jan 9am–4:30pm.U-Bahn 4 (Hietzing).•(€40–€79) available online. U-Bahn4 (Schönbrunn).5 ★★★ =Schlosspark. It’shard not to feel rather superior asyou stroll among the statues, foun-tains, immaculately clipped hedging,and bright flower-filled beds of thevast and beautiful Palace Park. Laidout by Maria Theresa’s son, JosephII (a keen gardener), in the strictsymmetry of French-style gardensof the era, it’s a great place towatch the Viennese at leisure. Thegrandest follies in the park includethe Schöner Brunnen after whichthe palace is named, complete withgrotto and nymph in true baroquestyle; the Fountain of Neptune fac-ing the palace; and the majestic Glo-riette—a neoclassical arcade. Themagnificent iron-and-glass PalmHouse (a replica of the one in Lon-don’s Kew Gardens), is full of exoticplants collected over centuries. ADesert House contains plants fromarid regions. Kids large and smallwill enjoy the Maze and the adjoin-ing Irrgarten (Crazy Garden)—aneccentric kids’ playground full ofunusual wooden toys, crazy mirrors,sandpits, and wacky climbingframes. @ 2 hr. Schlosspark. Nophone. www.schoenbrunn.at. Freeadmission. Apr–Oct 6am–dusk; Nov–Mar 6:30am–dusk, see website forexact times. Palm House: €4 adults,€3 kids. Daily Oct–Apr 9:30am–5pm;May–Sept 9:30am–6pm. Maze/Irrgarten: €3.50 adults, €2.20 kids,€7.50 family ticket. Apr–June, Sept9am–6pm; July–Aug 9am–7pm; Oct9am–5pm. U-Bahn 4 (Schönbrunn).Children just love the Palace’s Irrgarten(‘Crazy Garden’).
  • 117. 6 The Best Dining
  • 118. 110TheBestDiningBest Fish★★ Umarfisch, Naschmarkt 76–79(p 121)Best Ice-Cream★ Bortolotti, Mariahilferstrasse 22(p 116)Best Asian Cuisine★★ Indochine 21, Stubenring 18(p 118)Best Brunch★★★ Naschmarkt Deli, Nasch-markt 421–436 (p 120)Best Beer Cellar for a Meal★★ Zwölf Apostelkeller, Sonnen-felsgasse 3 (p 122)The Coolest Cafe in Town★ Café Drechsler, Linke Wienzeile22/Girardigasse 1 (p 116)Best Alfresco Meal★★★ Witwe Bolte, Gutenberggasse13 (p 121)Best Vegetarian Cuisine★★ Wrenkh, Bauernmarkt 10 (p 121)Most Eccentric Loos★★★ Steirerek im Stadtpark, AmStadtpark (p 121)Best Noodle Bar★★★ Ra’mien, Gumpendorfer-strasse 9 (p 121)Best for Carnivores★ Ribs of Vienna, Weihburggasse22 (p 121)Best for Afternoon Tea & Cake★★★ Café Sacher, Philharmoniker-strasse 4 (p 117)Best Wiener Schnitzel★★★ Figlmüller, Wollzeile 5 (seep 10, 2)Best Neighborhood Italian★★★ Osteria Numero Uno, Burg-gasse 25 (p 120)Best Boho Cafe★★★ Hawelka, Dorotheergasse 6(p 118)Best Meal with a View★★★ Le Loft, Sofitel Hotel, Prater-strasse 1 (p 119)Most Traditional Coffeehouse★★★ Café Sperl, Gumpendorfer-strasse 11 (p 117)Dining Best BetsCafé Sperl—one of the oldest and most popular coffeehouses in town. Previous page:Le Loft.
  • 119. 111DiningBestBetsUUUUUUUAmHeumarktRechteWienzeileKärntnerRingHauptstr.OperngasseFavoritenstr.SchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseMargaretenstrasseArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseWiednerLinkeWienzeileOperngasseElisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.Kärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.Frankenberg-gasseKarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohlleben-gasseGusshausstrassePressgasseMühlgasseFloragasseMozartgasseTaubstummen-gassePaulanergasseStraussengassKrongasseRubensgasseGross NeugassRienösslgasseKleine NeugasseFleischmann-gasseMayerhofgasseBelvederegasseGrohgasseStrobachgassePilgramgasseMollardgasseSandwirtgasseHofmühlgasseAmerlingstr.KoperngasseMagdalenenstr.ZollergasseSchadekgassNeubaugasseKirchengasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseLindengasseGumpendorferStrasseSiebensterngasseKantgasseCanovagasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseSchleifmühlgasseStrohgasseSalesianergasseRüdigergasseWehrgasseFranzensgassePlösslgasseWehrgasseSchönbrunnerstrasseLisztstr.OpernringGetreidemarktResselparkMittelsteigKettenbrücken-gasseMariahilferStrasseEsterhazygasseRechte Wienzeiletr.Hamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseWaaggasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseRennwegReisner Str.WienMuseumLeopoldMuseumOberesBelvedereUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergMargareten-platzMöllwald-platzRilke-platzBundes-länder-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Erzherzog-Johann-PlatzBeethoven-platzSchwarzenberg-platzBrahms-platzSchillerplatzEsterhazyparkBotanischerGartenDerUniversitätWienSchwarzenberg-GartenBelvedere-GartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEPILGRAMGASSENEUBAU-GASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERTAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKARLS-PLATZSTADTPARKStiftskircheSt.Joseph-kircheKarls-kircheMariahilf-kircheSalesianer-klosterPilgram-brückeStiftskaseAmHeumarktRechteWienzeileKärntnerRingHauptstr.OperngasseFavoritenstr.SchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseMargaretenstrasseArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseWiednerLinkeWienzeileOperngasseElisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.Kärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.Frankenberg-gasseKarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohlleben-gasseGusshausstrassePressgasseMühlgasseFloragasseMozartgasseTaubstummen-gassePaulanergasseStraussengassKrongasseRubensgasseGross NeugassRienösslgasseKleine NeugasseFleischmann-gasseMayerhofgasseBelvederegasseGrohgasseStrobachgassePilgramgasseMollardgasseSandwirtgasseHofmühlgasseAmerlingstr.KoperngasseMagdalenenstr.ZollergasseSchadekgassNeubaugasseKirchengasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgasseDürergasseWindmühlgasseLindengasseGumpendorferStrasseSiebensterngasseKantgasseCanovagasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseSchleifmühlgasseStrohgasseSalesianergasseRüdigergasseWehrgasseFranzensgassePlösslgasseWehrgasseSchönbrunnerstrasseLisztstr.OpernringGetreidemarktResselparkMittelsteigKettenbrücken-gasseMariahilferStrasseEsterhazygasseRechte Wienzeiletr.Hamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseWaaggasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseRennwegReisner Str.WienMuseumLeopoldMuseumOberesBelvedereUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergMargareten-platzMöllwald-platzRilke-platzBundes-länder-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Erzherzog-Johann-PlatzBeethoven-platzSchwarzenberg-platzBrahms-platzSchillerplatzEsterhazyparkBotanischerGartenDerUniversitätWienSchwarzenberg-GartenBelvedere-GartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEPILGRAMGASSENEUBAU-GASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERTAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKARLS-PLATZSTADTPARKStiftskircheSt.Joseph-kircheKarls-kircheMariahilf-kircheSalesianer-klosterPilgram-brückeStiftskaseBortolotti1CaféCuadro13CaféDrechsler10CaféSperl2Dock56IndianPavilion8KimKochtShopundStudio9NaschmarktDeli11Ra’mien4ShanghaiTan3Umarfisch7ZumRotenElefanten5ZurGoldenenGlocke12131211107689231451/4mi000.25kmU-BahnChurchPostOfficeMuseumWalkingPathUNaschmarkt & MargaretenDining
  • 120. 112TheBestDiningCity Center DiningUUUUUURechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.SchottenringLinke WienzeileMaria-TheresienstrasseEsslinggWerdertBörsegasseHelferstorferStr.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegenJoaneeWindmühlgassGumpendorferstr.StiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseWickenburggasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.WasagasseWallnerstr.StadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseMariahilfer StrasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMUMOKSecessionHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzFrankhplatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.NEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHOFBURGSCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt.MichaelerAugustinerkircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumVotivkircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastRechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.SchottenringLinke WienzeileMaria-TheresienstrasseEsslinggWerdertBörsegasseHelferstorferStr.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegenJoaneeWindmühlgassGumpendorferstr.StiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.Felderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseWickenburggasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.WasagasseWallnerstr.StadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseMariahilfer StrasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMUMOKSecessionHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzFrankhplatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.NEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHOFBURGSCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt.MichaelerAugustinerkircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumVotivkircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastAugustinerkeller 4Bräunerhof 5Café Leopold 1Café Meirerei Volksgarten 3Café Sacher 6Fabios 10Fratelli 14Gösser Bierklinik 11Gulaschmuseum 15Hawelka 9Hollmann Salon 20Indochine 21 17Kunsthistorisches Museum 2Le Loft 22Motto am Fluss 21Neni im Zweiten 23Ofenloch 12Oswald & Kalb 18Plachutta 16Ribs of Vienna 8Spezerei 24Steirerek im Stadtpark 7Wrenkh 13Zwölf Apostelkeller 1953421
  • 121. 113DiningBestBetsUUUUUOberDonaustr.AmHeumarktAmStadtparktParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.GonzagagassegasseHeinrichsgassetorgasse Marc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.Taborstr.Praterstr.ZirkusgasseKleine SperlgasseWeintrauben-gasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseSalesianergasseSingerstr.Lisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenG.-Keller-GasseSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGrossMohreng.GriechengasseSalztorg.WeihburggasseLothringerstrasseBeatrixgasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfg.VordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrasseAspernbrück-gasseWienMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaKarls-kircheDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeOberDonaustr.AmHeumarktAmStadtparktParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPWollzeileWeiskirchnerstr.GonzagagassegasseHeinrichsgassetorgasse Marc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.Taborstr.Praterstr.ZirkusgasseKleine SperlgasseWeintrauben-gasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseSalesianergasseSingerstr.Lisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenG.-Keller-GasseSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGrossMohreng.GriechengasseSalztorg.WeihburggasseLothringerstrasseBeatrixgasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfg.VordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrasseAspernbrück-gasseWienMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheSt. AnnaKarls-kircheDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brücke1/4 mi00 0.25 km11141310615 16181217202122232489197U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterLibraryMuseumWalking PathU
  • 122. 114TheBestDiningNeubau & Josefstadt DiningUUUSpitalgasseAlserstrasseJosefstädterstrasseRichterg.HermanngasseBandgasseZieglergasseHalbgasseZollergasseNeubaugasseKirchengasseSeidengasseKellermanngasseHöfergasseMariannengasseSkodagasseLaudongasseKupkagasseKochgasseLammgasseLederergassFuhrmanngassePiaristengassFlorianigassePiaristengassePfeilgasseStrozzigasseZeltgasseSiebensterngasseNeubaugasseLangeGasseLazarettgasseSchönborngasseBurggasseHernalserGürtelHernalserGürtel AlserstrasseKinderspitalgasseBreitenfeldergasseFlorianigasseJosefstädterstrasseLerchenfelder Str.NeustiftgasseKandlgasseWestbahnstrasseStollgasseStolzenthalergasseBennogasseBlindengasseAlbertgasseTigergasseLerchengasseFeldgasseBernardgasseKaiserstrasseKenyongasseSchottenfeldgasseMyrthengasseSchellhammer-gasseLerchenfelderGürtelLerchenfelderGürtelOttakringerStrasseGeblergasseThelemangasseFriedmann-gasseMuseum fürVolkskundeAllgemeinePoliklinikPrivatklinikJosefstadtKarl-Farkas-ParkSchönbornParkNEUBAU7.JOSEFSTADT8.ALSER STRASSEJOSEFSTÄDTERSTRASSETHALIASTRASSEMaria-TreuKlosterSt.-UlrichEvangelischeKircheDreifaltigkeits-kircheRenaissanceTheaterTheater i.d.JosefstadtSpitalgasseAlserstrasseJosefstädterstrasseRichterg.HermanngasseBandgasseZieglergasseHalbgasseZollergasseNeubaugasseKirchengasseSeidengasseKellermanngasseHöfergasseMariannengasseSkodagasseLaudongasseSchellhammer-gasseKupkagasseKochgasseLammgasseLederergassFuhrmanngassePiaristengassFlorianigassePiaristengassePfeilgasseStrozzigasseZeltgasseSiebensterngasseNeubaugasseLangeGasseLazarettgasseSchönborngasseBurggasseHernalserGürtelHernalserGürtelLerchenfelderGürtelLerchenfelderGürtelAlserstrasseOttakringerStrasseKinderspitalgasseBreitenfeldergasseGeblergasseThelemangasseFlorianigasseFriedmann-gasseJosefstädterstrasseLerchenfelder Str.NeustiftgasseKandlgasseWestbahnstrasseStollgasseStolzenthalergasseBennogasseBlindengasseAlbertgasseTigergasseLerchengasseFeldgasseBernardgasseKaiserstrasseKenyongasseSchottenfeldgasseMyrthengasseMuseum fürVolkskundeAllgemeinePoliklinikPrivatklinikJosefstadtKarl-Farkas-ParkSchönbornParkNEUBAU7.JOSEFSTADT8.ALSER STRASSEJOSEFSTÄDTERSTRASSETHALIASTRASSEMaria-TreuKlosterSt.-UlrichEvangelischeKircheDreifaltigkeits-kircheRenaissanceTheaterTheater i.d.JosefstadtAlte Backstube 4Amerlingbeisl 10Café der Provinz 3Die Wäscherei 1Kulinarium 7 8Lobo y Luna 6¡Mas! 2Naturkost St. Josef 71070 13Osteria Numero Uno 9Witwe Bolte 11Zu den 2 Lieserl’n 5Zu Ebener Erde und Erste Stock 121 2674351/4 mi00 0.25 kmU-BahnInformationChurchLibraryPost OfficeTheaterHospitalMuseumWalking PathU
  • 123. 115DiningBestBetsUUUUUUniversitäts-campusOperng.Dr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.WähringerStr.SchottenringMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.RenngasseStrauchgasseSchauflergasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseReStiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgasseWindmühlgasseLindengasseGumpendorferStrasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreiteGasseKirchberggasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.JosefsgasseTrautson-gasseDoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseSchlössergasseWickenburggasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.Bergg.Türkenstr.RotenhausgasseWasagasseFlorianigasseWallnerstr.StadiongasseLöwelstr.KBurgringOpernringMölker BasteiTieferGrabenThavonatgasseSchottengasseMariahilfer StrasseFriedrichstr.Schwarzspanierstr.Lerchenfelder Str.Garnisong.GetreidemarktNaturhistorischesMuseum NEUEBURGSpanischeHofreitschuleBurgtorLeopoldMuseumKunst-HallePalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMUMOKSecessionHOFBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzO. Wagner-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzFrankhplatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.SCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERStiftskirchSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftMariahilf-kircheJustiz-ministeriumVotivkircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienEnglishTheatreStiftskaseRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastUniversitäts-campusOperng.Dr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.WähringerStr.SchottenringMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBörsegasseHelferstorfer Str.HessgasseHohenstaufengasseRockhgasseHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.RenngasseStrauchgasseSchauflergasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseReStiftgasseSchweighofergasseTheobaldgasseWindmühlgasseLindengasseGumpendorferStrasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreiteGasseKirchberggasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.JosefsgasseTrautson-gasseDoblhoffgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseSchlössergasseWickenburggasseEbendorferstr.FrankgasseRathausstr.Bergg.Türkenstr.RotenhausgasseWasagasseFlorianigasseWallnerstr.StadiongasseLöwelstr.KBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiTieferGrabenThavonatgasseSchottengasseMariahilfer StrasseFriedrichstr.Schwarzspanierstr.Lerchenfelder Str.Garnisong.NaturhistorischesMuseumHOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSpanischeHofreitschuleBurgtorLeopoldMuseumKunst-HallePalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMUMOKSecessionSchlick-platzHelden-platzRoosevelt-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzO. Wagner-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzFrankhplatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzBörse-platzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkBurg-GartenVolksgartenFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.SCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSMUSEUMS-QUARTIERStiftskirchSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftMariahilf-kircheJustiz-ministeriumVotivkircheMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienEnglishTheatreStiftskaseRathausParlamentJustiz-Palast1089121113
  • 124. 116TheBestDining★ =Bortolotti NEUBAU ICE-CREAM PARLOR  Dozens of differentice-cream flavors await you at thispopular gelateria, including hazelnut,coconut, cherry, bilberry, yoghurt,and poppy seed. Mariahilferstrasse 22(also 66 & 94 from Feb to mid-Oct).y 01 526 1909. No credit cards.8am–11pm daily. U-Bahn 3 (Neubau-gasse). Map p 111.★ Bräunerhof HOFBURG CAFE Join the locals in this genteel tea-room to enjoy a variety of coffeesand strudels. At weekends, a quar-tet plays in the afternoons. Stall-burggasse 2. y 01 512 3893.Entrees €7.70–€12.50. No creditcards. Mon–Fri 8am–9pm; Sat 8am–7pm; Sun, hols 10am–7pm. Tram1/2/D (Oper). Map p 112.★ =Café Cuadro MARGARE-TEN CAFE  A trendy organic cafe,serving bio-breakfasts (until 4pm),square ethno-burgers, salads, vege-tarian strudels, and affordable cock-tails (from 5pm). Margaretenstrasse77. y 01 544 7550. Entrees €3.90–€9.20. V only. Breakfast, lunch &dinner daily. U-Bahn 4 (Pilgram-gasse). Map p 111.★ =Café der Provinz JOSEF-STADT CAFE  This low-key, mellowcafe draws students and locals inwith its simple menu of salads,savory and sweet pancakes, not tomention homemade lemonade, anddelicious organic brunches at week-ends. Maria-Treu-Gasse 3. y 01 9442272. €4.80–€7.80. Breakfast, lunch& dinner daily. U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus).Map p 114.★ Café Drechsler NASCHMARKTCAFE  This cult cafe by the marketwith its cool, Conran-designed inte-rior never closes. What’s more, itserves sensational brunches, andregularly hosts DJs. Linke Wienzeile★★ Alte Backstube JOSEFSTADTVIENNESE  Tuck into real Viennesehome-cooking in this old-fashioned,country-style, candlelit tavern, housedin a former 17th-century bakery. Thelunch menu is especially good. LangeGasse 34. y 01 406 1101. Entrees€6.80–€23.60. MC, V. Lunch & dinnerTues–Fri and Sun; dinner Sat. U-Bahn2 (Rathaus). Map p 114.★★ Amerlingbeisl SPITTELBERGAUSTRIAN  An informal eatery serv-ing simple but varied light bites,including a good vegetarian selection.Sit outside in the pretty, cobbledcourtyard. Stiftgasse 8. y 01 5261660. Entrees €7–€12. AE, DC, MC, V.Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Tram49 (Stiftgasse). Map p 114.★★ Augustinerkeller HOFBURGVIENNESE  Hearty local dishes,beer on tap, and jolly Heurige musicin the evenings are the order of theday within the ancient brick vaultsof this former monastery cellar.Augustinerstrasse 1. y 01 5331026. Entrees €10.50–€24.50. AE,DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily.Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Map p 112.Vienna Dining A to ZAmerlingbeisl—a true locals watering-hole.
  • 125. 117ViennaDiningAtoZwashed down with the local housebeer or an exotic cocktail. Albertgasse49/corner Laudongasse.y 0664 3896 671. Entrees €6.90–€22.90. AE,DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5pm–2am; Sat10am–2pm; Sun 10am–midnight.Tram 5/33 (Florianigasse). Map p 114.★★ Dock 5 CITY CENTER FISH The sensational clam chowder andseafood platters will appeal to fishfanatics. Right next to the Musikver-ein, it’s handy for pre- or post-con-cert dinners. Karlsplatz 5. y 01 5053839. Entrees €11.50–€49.50. DC,MC, V. Dinner daily. U-Bahn 1/2/4(Karlsplatz). Map p 111.★★ Fabios FREYUNG MEDITERRA-NEAN  See and be seen in thissophisticated, minimalist restaurantwhere the decor is sleek, the wait-ers suave, and the modern-Mediter-ranean cuisine impeccable. Saveroom for dessert. Tuchlauben 4–6.y 01 532 2222. Entrees €28.50–€34.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinnerMon–Sat. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).Map p 112.★★ Fratelli CITY CENTER ITALIAN Hugely popular Italian restaurantserving homemade pastas and piz-zas. Ask for a table on the pretty22/Girardigasse 1. y 01 581 20 44.Entrees €4.90–€14.50. AE, DC, MC,V. Open 24 hours daily. U-Bahn 1/2/4(Karlsplatz). Map p 111.★★ Café Leopold MQ CAFE Hip,arty types frequent the LeopoldMuseum’s cool cafe-bar for tastybrunches, bagels, and wraps duringthe day, followed by cocktails andfunky DJ sounds at night. Museums-platz 1. y 01 523 6732. Entrees€3.90–€11.40. MC, V. Sun–Wed10am–2am; Thurs–Sat 10am–4am.U-Bahn 2 (MuseumsQuartier). Mapp 112.★ =Café Meirerei Volksgar-ten HOFBURG CAFE  Come to thistiny garden pavilion for its sensa-tional alfresco buck’s fizz breakfasts,gooey gateaux, and ice-cream sun-daes. Volksgarten. y 01 533 2105.Entrees €3.80–€12.60. AE, DC, MC,V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily(Apr–Oct only). Tram 1/2/D (Dr-Karl-Renner Ring). Map p 112.★★★ Café Sacher CITY CENTERCAFE  The place to try Vienna’sfamous chocolate cake, Sacher-torte, made to a secret recipe andserved with whipped cream in aposh, traditional tea-room. Philhar-monikerstrasse 4. y 01 51 456-0.Entrees €16.60–€21.50. AE, DC, MC,V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily.Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Map p 112.★★★ Café Sperl MQ CAFE Oneof Vienna’s best-loved cafes, servinglocal dishes in a plush, fin-de-sièclesetting. Newspapers and billiard-tables add to the relaxed ambience.Gumpendorferstrasse 11. y 01 5864158. Entrees €7.10–€9.80. AE, DC,MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm; Sun11am–8pm (closed Sun July–Aug).U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 111.★★ Die Wäscherei JOSEFSTADTINTERNATIONAL  A stylish, candlelitlocals’ haunt, serving tasty pizzas, sal-ads, steaks, and cheeseburgersCafé Sperl—the archetypal Viennese cof-fee house.
  • 126. 118TheBestDiningwhen hot Buchteln (jam doughnuts)are served. Scrumptious with cof-fee. Dorotheergasse 6. y 01 5128230. Snacks €3.50–€4.30. Nocredit cards. Mon–Sat 8am–2am;Sun 10am–2am. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stepha-nsplatz). Map p 112.★★★ Hollmann Salon CITY CEN-TER AUSTRIAN  This stylish restau-rant serves high-quality three- andfour-course menus of organic,regional cuisine, and beautifullycrafted desserts. Grashofgasse 3(entrance in Heiligenkreuzerhof).y 01 96 11 960-40. Set menus €16–€43. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinnerMon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schweden-platz). Map p 112.★★★ Indian Pavilion NASCH-MARKT INDIAN  Try the specialtythali (mixed curry platter) on thepavement terrace of this tiny marketcafe, and wash it down with a Cobrabeer, a mango lassi (yoghurt drink),or Darjeeling tea with cardamom.Naschmarkt 74–75. y 01 587 8561.Entrees €9.50–€12.80. No creditcards. Mon–Fri 11am–6:30pm; Sat11am–5pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karl-splatz). Map p 111.★★ Indochine 21 CITY CENTERASIAN  Transport yourself to Indo-china via the spicy hotpots, fishshaded terrace or in the wittilyfrescoed, brick-vaulted basement.Rotenturmstrasse 24 (entrance onErtlplatz). y 01 533 8745. €7.90–€24.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & din-ner daily. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).Map p 112.★★ =Gösser BierklinikFREYUNG BEER CELLAR  One of thetop drinking haunts in Vienna, thisjolly beer cellar—with a level ofnoise to delight parents of tod-dlers—serves superb ales andhearty Viennese Schmankerln (deli-cacies), including beer soup. Steindl-gasse 4. y 01 759 812. Entrees€9.90–€23. DC, MC, V. Lunch & din-ner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephans-platz). Map p 112.★ =Gulaschmuseum CITYCENTER AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN Fif-teen different types of gulasch (ameaty casserole seasoned withpaprika) are served here, includingeven a chocolate gulasch for dessert.Schulerstrasse 20. y 01 512 1017.Entrees €8.60–€14. MC, V. Breakfast,lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 112.★★★ Hawelka CITY CENTERCAFE  This scruffy, bohemian cafehas long attracted artists and localliterati. Join them here at 10pmIndochine 21—the ultimate in French-Vietnamese cuisine.
  • 127. 119ViennaDiningAtoZthe KHM’s grand cupola hall. Book inadvance for the special Sunday Artand Buffet brunch and art tour. KHM,Maria-Theresien-Platz. y 0644 9664546. Brunch €39 adults, €23 kids.AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.Tram 1/2/D (Burgring). Map p 112.★★★ Le Loft KARMELITER FRENCH A minimalist, glassy dining space atopthe Sofitel Hotel, with gourmet Frenchcuisine and the best aerial views intown. Book several weeks in advance.Hotel Sofitel (18th floor), Praterstrasse1. y 01 906 161-0. Entrees €31–€85;bar menu €9–€25. U-Bahn 1/4(Schwedenplatz). Map p 112.★★ Lobo y Luna NEUBAU SPAN-ISH  There’s a tiny restaurant hid-den behind the sleek bar here. Itserves a select choice of tasty tapasdishes, including chorizo in riojasauce and prawns in garlic. Monds-cheingasse 2. y 01 944 9966. Tapas€5.50–€9; set menus €17.50–€24.AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sat (win-ter); Mon–Fri (summer). U-Bahn 3(Neubaugasse). Map p 114.★★ ¡Mas! JOSEFSTADT TEX-MEX The sleek minimalist candlelit inte-rior draws a cool crowd for cocktails(happy hour 6–8pm), tasty tacos,quesadillas, and other Tex-Mex cui-sine. Laudongasse 36/corner Daun-gasse. y 01 403 8324. Entrees€3.80–€11.90. AE, MC, V. Mon–Satdishes, and exotic fruits of this chicrestaurant, which specializes in out-standing modern French–Vietnam-ese cuisine. Stubenring 18. y 01513 7660. Set menus €28–€68. AE,DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily.Tram 1/2 (Stubentor). Map p 112.★★★ Kim Kocht Shop und Stu-dio NASCHMARKT ASIAN Thereare just three or four simple butexquisite Asian noodle dishes onoffer daily at this cafe. Korean chefSohyi Kim serves them up alongsideher mouthwatering array of home-made chutneys, sauces, soups,spices, and dressings. Naschmarkt28. y 01 319 34 02. Entrees €12–€16. No credit cards. Tues–Satnoon–6pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).Map p 111.★★★ Kulinarium 7 SPITTELBERGMODERN AUSTRIAN  This refinedwine bar serves sophisticated cui-sine to accompany its top-notchinternational wine selection. Trysnails from Vienna’s vineyards fol-lowed by beef poached in bordeaux.Sigmundsgasse/corner Siebenstern-gasse. y 01 522 3377. Set menusonly €50–€70. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–11:30pm. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volks-theater). Map p 114.★ =KunsthistorischesMuseum MQ CAFE  Grab a coffeeor a light snack between galleries inFantastic views over the city from Le Loft.
  • 128. 120TheBestDining★★ Ofenloch FREYUNG VIEN-NESE  This traditional restaurantserves classic Viennese fare with amodern twist in a series of intimate,romantic dining rooms. The Zwiebel-rostbraten (steak heaped withcrispy onions) is especially tasty.Kurrentgasse 8. y 01 533 8844.Entrees €10.50–€18.50. AE, MC, V.Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 112.★★★ 1070 SPITTELBERG MEDITER-RANEAN  A tiny, welcoming bistrowith a relaxed ambience, specializ-ing in “running cooking”: no menubut rather a series of small seasonalpasta, meat, and fish courses, fol-lowed by exquisite puddings or acheeseboard. Gutenberggasse 28.y 0676 566 1774. All dishes€4–€6.90. MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sun.U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). Mapp 114.★★★ Osteria Numero UnoNEUBAU ITALIAN  The ownersmake you feel like house guests atthis tiny, quirky restaurant. There’sno menu: Silvia cooks as manycourses as you can eat while Lucaserves the wines. Burggasse 25.y 01 526 0357. Allow €30 for 3courses. No credit cards. DinnerTues–Fri (also Sat Nov–Dec). U-Bahn2/3 (Volkstheater). Map p 114.★★ Oswald & Kalb CITY CENTERVIENNESE  A hugely popular beisl(bistro), serving upmarket variationson Viennese cuisine to the city’sbeautiful people, in a modern, can-dlelit setting. Bäckerstrasse 14.y 01 512 1371. Entrees €14.50–€20. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner daily.U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 112.★★ Plachutta CITY CENTER VIEN-NESE  One of the city’s finest res-taurants, where the local specialtyTafelspitz (boiled beef) has beenraised to an art form, with 10 cutsof beef to choose from. Wollzeile38. y 01 512 1577. Entrees6pm–2am; Sun 10am–midnight;Sun brunch 10am–4pm.Tram 5/33(Laudongasse/Lederergasse). Mapp 114.★★ Motto am Fluss CITY CEN-TER MODERN AUSTRIAN  A sleekrestaurant serving affordable gour-met Austrian cuisine in the mainboat terminal, overlooking the Dan-ube Canal. On the upper deck, thecafe is popular for alfresco break-fasts, coffees, and light bites. Schiff-station Wien-City, Schwedenplatz 2.y 01 25 255 10. Entrees €11–€26.MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily; bar6pm–4am. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schweden-platz). Map p 112.★★★ =Naschmarkt DeliNASCHMARKT CAFE  Come here forhearty all-day breakfasts, market-fresh salads, and mighty triple-decker sandwiches. It’s also a trendybar by night. Naschmarkt 421–436.y 01 585 0823. Entrees €4.50–€5.50. No credit cards. Breakfast,lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 111.★ =Naturkost St. Josef NEU-BAU VEGETARIAN  Choose fromtwo tasty menus—the dishes changedaily—or there are soups and juicesat this simple, quality vegetariancafe-cum-healthfood store. Zoller-gasse 26. y 01 526 6818. Set menus€7.20–€8.60. MC. Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat 8am–4pm. U-Bahn 3 (Neu-baugasse). Map p 114.★ Neni im Zweiten KARMELITERINTERNATIONAL  This fashionableAustro-Israeli cafe in a smart designcenter serves sensational breakfastsuntil midday, followed by a bistro-style menu with specialty dishescooked in a wood-fired oven. Prat-erstrasse 1 (also a branch at theNaschmarkt). y 01 212 1210.Entrees €12.50–€20.50. DC, MC, V.9:30am–2am daily (hot food until11pm). U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).Map p 112.
  • 129. 121ViennaDiningAtoZ★★★ Steirerek im StadtparkSTADTPARK MODERN AUSTRIAN Viennese gossip magazines alwaysfeature celebrity diners at thisupscale riverside restaurant, longranked Austria’s top gourmet tem-ple. The restrooms count amongEurope’s quirkiest. Am Stadtpark.y 01 713 3168. Entrees €28–€44.AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri. U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark). Map p 112.★★ Umarfisch NASCHMARKT FISH It’s worth squeezing round the tinytables at this Mediterranean-stylemarket-cafe, as it serves the freshestfish and shellfish in town. Nasch-markt 76–79. y 01 587 0456.Entrees €12.90–€27.90. DC, MC, V.Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 111.★★★ Witwe Bolte SPITTELBERGAUSTRIAN  Enjoy classic regionaldishes, fish, game, and steaks at thistiny, traditional locale, or on its tree-shaded terrace in a fountain-splashed,cobbled square. Gutenberggasse 13.y 01 523 1450. Entrees €10.80–€24.AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily.U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). Map p 114.★★ Wrenkh CITY CENTER VEGE-TARIAN  The city’s leading vegetar-ian restaurant, in a modern yetcomfortable setting. Bauernmarkt10. y 01 533 1526. MC, V. Mon–Sat€15.10–€25.40. AE, DC, MC, V.Lunch & dinner daily. Tram 1/2.U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 112.★★★ =Ra’mien MQ ASIAN This hip, Asian fast-food joint com-bines delicious (and often spicy)noodle dishes from China, Vietnam,and Thailand, with minimalist can-teen-chic. Gumpendorferstrasse 9.y 01 585 4798. Entrees €7–€16.20.AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sun. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Mapp 111.★ Ribs of Vienna CITY CENTERAMERICAN  This dark but lively cel-lar restaurant is paradise for carni-vores, serving sticky barbeque ribsand juicy steaks. I challenge anyoneto complete the specialty “meter ofspare-ribs.“ Weihburggasse 22.y 01 513 8519. Entrees €12.60–€23. No credit cards. Mon-Fri 11am–3pm and 5pm–midnight. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 112.★ Shanghai Tan MQ ASIAN Theblack-and-red decor of this large,dark restaurant affords an intimateambience in which to savor itsextensive menu of oriental (primar-ily Chinese) delicacies. Known forits aromatic noodle dishes, it alsoserves delicious sushi, dim sum,and satay. Gumpendorferstrasse 9.y 01 585 4988. Entrees €11.80–€16.80. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch &dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karl-splatz). Map p 111.★★ Spezerei KARMELITER TAPAS/WINE BAR  A great lunch-stop, thistiny delicatessen serves fish tapas,salads, platters of cold cuts andcheeses, and exquisite pasta disheson a sunny sidewalk terrace in thenewly-fashionable Karmeliter dis-trict. Karmeliterplatz 2. y 01 218 4718. Entrees €4.70–€10.90. MC, V.Mon–Sat 11:30am–11pm. Tram 2(Karmeliterplatz/Taborstrasse). Mapp 112.Enjoy the informal ambiance of thistrendy noodle bar.
  • 130. 122TheBestDininga la carte. Gumpendorferstrasse 3.y 01 966 8008. Entrees €9.50–€14.90. No credit cards. Lunch &dinner Mon–Fri; dinner Sat. U-Bahn 2(MuseumsQuartier). Map p 111.★ Zur Goldenen Glocke MAR-GARETEN VIENNESE  Entering thisancient tavern is like arriving in thecountryside. Gingham-checkedtablecloths and hunting scenes dec-orate the interior. The menu fea-tures authentic Viennese cuisine.Kettenbrückengasse 9. y 01 5875767. Entrees €9.90–€17.80. DC,MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pmand 5:30–10:30pm; Sun 11:30am–3pm. U-Bahn 4 (Kettenbrücken-gasse). Map p 111.★★ Zwölf Apostelkeller CITYCENTER HEURIGE  There’s always ajolly atmosphere at this medieval,vaulted Heurige in the heart of theold town. It offers superb wines, alengthy menu of Austrian dishes,and live music every night. Sonnen-felsgasse 3. y 01 512 6777. Entrees€3.40–€14.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch& dinner daily. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stepha-nsplatz). Map p 112.•noon–10pm. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephans-platz). Map p 112.★★★ =Zu den 2 Lieserl’nNEUBAU VIENNESE  The pea-greenfacade hides a well-kept secret: Thislittle-known rustic beisl with a court-yard garden serves some of thefinest (and largest) schnitzels inVienna. Burggasse 63. y 01 5233282. Entrees €7–€11.90. No creditcards. Daily 11am–11pm. U-Bahn 2/3(Volkstheater). Map p 114.★ Zu Ebener Erde und ErsteStock SPITTELBERG BOHEMIAN Expect a cozy Biedermeier atmo-sphere at this family-run cafe, asyou tuck into hearty gulasch andsimilar Austro-Hungarian dishes.Burgstrasse 13. y 01 523 6254.Entrees €9.50–€14.90. AE, V. Break-fast, lunch & dinner Mon–Fri. U-Bahn2/3 (Volkstheater). Map p 114.★★ Zum Roten Elefanten MQAUSTRIAN  The “Red Elephant” hasbecome part of Vienna’s in-scene,with a daily-changing menu ofstraightforward seasonal dishes.The set lunch menu (€7.90 for twocourses) is excellent value; dinner isZwölf Apostelkeller—fine wines, Heurige music and a rustic beer-hall atmosphere.
  • 131. 7 The Best Nightlife
  • 132. 124TheBestNightlifeBest Dressed Crowd★★★ Red Room, Stubenring 20(p 129)Best for Romance★★★ Aux Gazelles, Rahlgasse 5(p 129)Best People-Watching★★★ Volksgarten, Burgring 1(p 131)Best for Cutting-Edge Sounds★★ rhiz, Stadtbahnbögen 37–38,Lerchenfelder Gürtel (p 132)Most Eccentric Bar★★★ phil, Gumpendorferstrasse10–12 (p 129)Best Country-Style Bar★★ Steirisch-Pub, Siebenstern-gasse 17 (p 130)Best Views★★★ Le K-Fé, Hotel Sofitel, Prater-strasse 1 (p 129)Best Jugendstil Bar★★ American Bar, Kärntner Durch-gang 10 (p 35)Best Beach Party inthe City★★ Strandbar Herrmann,Herrmannpark/Urania (p 130)Best for Party Animals★★★ passage, Babenburgerpas-sage, Burgring 1 (p 131)Best Jazz Club★★★ Porgy & Bess, Riemergasse11 (p 132)Best Bar to Wear a Bikini★★★ Badeschiff, Donaukanallände(p 130)Best for Celebrity-Spotting★★★ Eden Bar, Liliengasse 2 (p 131)Best Beer★★★ Siebenstern Bräuwirtshaus,Siebensterngasse 19 (p 130)Best Gay Bar★★ Café Savoy, Linke Wienzeile36 (p 131)Best Wines★★★ Meinl’s Weinbar, Graben 19(entrance at Näglergasse 8) (p 129)Best Dance Club★★★ Flex, Donaukanal (by theAugartenbrücke) (p 130)Best Cocktail Lounge★★ Planter’s Club, Zelinkagasse 4(p 129)Best Canalside Venue★★★ Summer Stage, RossauerLände (p 73)Nightlife Best BetsMost Eccentric Bar: Phil’s. Previous page: Café scene at night.
  • 133. 125NightlifeBestBetsUUUURechte WienzeileMargaretenstrasseLerchenfelder Str.Linke WienzeileElisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseLehárgassePressgasseMühlgasseStraussengassPhorusgasseKrongasseLambrechtgasseRubens-gasseGrossNeugassKleineNeugasseFleischmanngSHartmGartengasseGrohgasseStrobachgasseSchlossgassPilgramgasseKoperngasseSteggasseMagdalenenstr.SchadekgassKirchengassStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgassLindengasseGumpendorfer StrasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreiteGasseKirchberggassNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Bellariastr.Trautson-gasseSiebensterngasseSchleifmühlgasseGrüngasseRüdigergassWehrgasseFranzensgasseWehrgasseSchönbrunnerstrasseJoBurgringGetreidemarktMittelsteigZiegelhofeKettenbrückengasseBurggasseMariahilfer StrasseRechteWienzeilerHauptstr.Hamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseWaaggasseKlagbaumgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseOperngasseTheobaldgasseBabenbergerstr.HofmühlgasseNaturhistorischesMuseumHOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionFoltermus.,Haus d.MeeresMargareten-platzHelden-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzSchmerling-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkINNERESTADT1.VOLKS-THEATERKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSt. UlrichStiftskirchSt. Joseph-kircheMariahilf-kircheJustiz-ministeriumVolkstheaterTheater ander WienKUNSTHALLEwienKunsthistorischesMuseumStiftskaseJustiz-PalastRechte WienzeileOperngasseMuseumstr.MargaretenstrasseLerchenfelder Str.Linke WienzeileBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseLehárgassePressgasseMühlgasseStraussengassPhorusgasseKrongasseLambrechtgasseRubens-gasseGrossNeugassKleineNeugasseFleischmanngSHartmGartengasseGrohgasseStrobachgasseSchlossgassPilgramgasseKoperngasseSteggasseMagdalenenstr.SchadekgassKirchengassStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgassLindengasseGumpendorfer StrasseStiftgasseSigmundgasseBreiteGasseKirchberggassNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Bellariastr.Trautson-gasseSiebensterngasseSchleifmühlgasseGrüngasseRüdigergassWehrgasseFranzensgasseWehrgasseSchönbrunnerstrasseJoBurgringGetreidemarktMittelsteigZiegelhofeKettenbrückengasseBurggasseMariahilfer StrasseRechteWienzeilerHauptstr.Hamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseWaaggasseKlagbaumgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseHofmühlgasseNaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumHOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionFoltermus.,Haus d.MeeresMargareten-platzHelden-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzSchmerling-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkINNERESTADT1.VOLKS-THEATERKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEPILGRAMGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSt. UlrichStiftskirchSt. Joseph-kircheMariahilf-kircheJustiz-ministeriumVolkstheaterTheater ander WienKUNSTHALLEwienStiftskaseJustiz-Palast1/4 mi00 0.25 kmU-BahnChurchPost OfficeTheaterMuseumWalking PathUAux Gazelles 6Café Savoy 10Café Willendorf 12Lutz 7Market 11passage 2phil 8Plutzer Bräu 3Sektcomptoir 9Siebenstern Bräuwirtshaus 4Steirisch-Pub 5Volksgarten 1453129111087612Neubau & Naschmarkt Nightlife
  • 134. 126TheBestNightlifeUUUUUUUOberDonaustr.ParkringKärntner RingSchubertringSchottenringWollzeileTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseBerggasseZelinkagasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseHeinrichsgasseWerdertorgasseBörsegasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseNaglergasseBognergasseRenngasseFärbergasseSeitergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseGoethegasseTaborstr.TaborstrasseKleine PfarrgasseSchiffamts-gasseGrossePfarrgasseSchiffgasseKleine SperlgasseGr.SperlgasseHaidgasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.MalzgasseKrummbaum-gasseSchreygasseFranz-Hochedlinger-GasseWallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseCobdengasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.FlossgasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarktTuchlaubenOpernringFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringTandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseImWerdAmHofTieferGrabenDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.GriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseKarmelitergasseLeopoldsgasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseBräunerstr.HOFBURGDom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausAlbertinaHoherMarktAltesRathausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderZumheiligenJosefJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzKarmeliter-platzDeutsch-meister-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzBörse-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkWilhelmkienzl-ParkSTEPHANS-PLATZHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGSCHWEDEN-PLATZTABOR-STR.STUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterStaatsoperKammer-spieleKammer-operAugarten-brückeRossauerBrückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brückeOberDonaustr.ParkringKärntner RingSchubertringSchottenringWollzeileTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseBerggasseZelinkagasseGonzagagasseEsslinggasseHeinrichsgasseWerdertorgasseBörsegasseRockhgasseNeutorgasseMarc-Aurel-Str.WipplingerstrasseNaglergasseBognergasseRenngasseFärbergasseSeitergasseHabsburger-gasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseGoethegasseTaborstr.TaborstrasseKleine PfarrgasseSchiffamts-gasseGrossePfarrgasseSchiffgasseKleine SperlgasseGr.SperlgasseHaidgasseLilienbrunngasseGredlerstr.Hollandstr.MalzgasseKrummbaum-gasseSchreygasseFranz-Hochedlinger-GasseWallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseCobdengasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseHegelgasseKumpfgasseJohannesgasseSingerstr.FlossgasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktKohlmarktTuchlaubenOpernringFranz-Josefs-KaiSalzgriesFleischmarktLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringTandelmarktgasseGrossMohrengasseImWerdAmHofTieferGrabenDorotheergasseAugustinerStr.GriechengasseSalztorgasseWeihburggasseKarmelitergasseLeopoldsgasseFranz-Josefs-KaiGölsdorfgasseBräunerstr.HOFBURGDom- U.Diözesan-MuseumMozarthausAlbertinaHoherMarktAltesRathausKrhs. DerBarmherzigenBrüderZumheiligenJosefJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzKarmeliter-platzDeutsch-meister-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzAlbertinaPlatzConcordia-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzBörse-platzRudolfs-platzMorzin-platzStadtparkWilhelmkienzl-ParkSTEPHANS-PLATZHERREN-GASSESCHOTTENRINGSCHWEDEN-PLATZTABOR-STR.STUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-kircheMalteseFranziskaner-kircheSt. AnnaSt.MichaelerAugustiner-kircheDominikaner-kircheKapuzinerkircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheStephansdomSt. PeterStaatsoperKammer-spieleKammer-operAugarten-brückeRossauerBrückeSchweden-brückeSalztor-brückeMarien-brücke1/4 mi00 0.25 km1471165108923City Center Nightlife
  • 135. 127NightlifeBestBetsUUUUDonaukanalWien-nordPratersternPratersternAmHeumarktAmStadtparkSchüttelstrasseHeinestr.Weiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseNovaragasseAfrikanergasseZirkusgasseBlumauergasseGross StadtgutgasseGlockengasseMayergasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgasse Praterstr.ZirkusgasseRotensterngasseSportklubstrasseCzerningasseLaufberger-gasseStoffelagassLichtenauergasseVivariumstrasseMarxergasseSeidlgasseSeidlgasseHetz-gasseKolonitzgasseKollergasseBechardgasseKegelgasseOberViaduktgasseWeyrgasseSalmgasseUnterViaduktgasseGeusaugasseBlattgasseLöwengasseMarxergasseLöwengasseRadetzkystr.Obere Weissgerberstr.BeatrixgasseUnterViaduktgassegasseAspernbrückgasseInvalidenstr.AdamsgasseKübeckgasseHörnesgasseBlütengasseUnterWeissgerberstr.ParkgasseKundmanngasseErdbergstr.HetzgasseKegelgasseKrieglergasseRadetzkystr.HiessgasseRechteBahngasseSchallautzerStr.HauptalleeRasumofskygasseTempelgasseLandstrasser Hauptstr.Baumannstr.UngargasseReisnerStr.HintereZollamtsstr.WeissgerberländeDampfschiffstrasseFranzensbrückenstr.GeusaugasseUntere DonaustrasseHundertwasser-hausKunstHaus WienJ. StraussMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)St. ElisabethKrankenhausUniversität fürAngewandteKunstOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzEste-platzKolonitz-platzR.-V.-Alt-PlatzOswald-Thomas-PlatzRadetzky-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzAnton-Weber-PlatzHerrmann-ParkVenedigerAuLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEPRATER-STERNNESTROYPLATZROCHUSGASSESt. OthmarPrater-museumSt. RochusAspern-brückeFranzens-brückeDonaukanalWien-nordPratersternPratersternAmHeumarktAmStadtparkSchüttelstrasseHeinestr.Weiskirchnerstr.VordereZollamtsstrasseNovaragasseAfrikanergasseZirkusgasseBlumauergasseGross StadtgutgasseGlockengasseMayergasseWeintraubengasseSchmelzgasse Praterstr.ZirkusgasseRotensterngasseSportklubstrasseCzerningasseLaufberger-gasseStoffelagassLichtenauergasseVivariumstrasseMarxergasseSeidlgasseSeidlgasseHetz-gasseKolonitzgasseKollergasseBechardgasseKegelgasseOberViaduktgasseWeyrgasseSalmgasseUnterViaduktgasseGeusaugasseBlattgasseLöwengasseMarxergasseLöwengasseRadetzkystr.Obere Weissgerberstr.BeatrixgasseUnterViaduktgassegasseAspernbrückgasseInvalidenstr.AdamsgasseKübeckgasseHörnesgasseBlütengasseUnterWeissgerberstr.ParkgasseKundmanngasseErdbergstr.HetzgasseKegelgasseKrieglergasseRadetzkystr.HiessgasseRechteBahngasseSchallautzerStr.HauptalleeRasumofskygasseTempelgasseLandstrasser Hauptstr.Baumannstr.UngargasseReisnerStr.HintereZollamtsstr.WeissgerberländeDampfschiffstrasseFranzensbrückenstr.GeusaugasseUntere DonaustrasseHundertwasser-hausKunstHaus WienJ. StraussMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)St. ElisabethKrankenhausUniversität fürAngewandteKunstOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzEste-platzKolonitz-platzR.-V.-Alt-PlatzOswald-Thomas-PlatzRadetzky-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzAnton-Weber-PlatzHerrmann-ParkVenedigerAuLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEPRATER-STERNNESTROYPLATZROCHUSGASSESt. OthmarPrater-museumSt. RochusAspern-brückeFranzens-brückeAdria Wien 3Badeschiff 6Eden Bar 9Flex 1fluc 13Jazzland 4Le K-Fé 5Meinl’s Weinbar 8Planter’s Club 2Porgy & Bess 10Prater Sauna 14Red Room 11Strandbar Herrmann 12Weinorgel 7121314U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterHospitalMuseumWalking PathU
  • 136. 128TheBestNightlifeUUUUUUUniversitäts-campusAltesAKH Univ. WienWähringerGürtelSpitalgasseNussdorferStr.AlserstrasseWähringerGürtelBuchfeldgasseSensengasseBoltzmanngasseFuchsthallergasseSechsschimmelgasseBleichergasseW.ExnergasseBindergasseSäulengasseSchubertgasseSemperstr.MollgasseMichaelerstr.Semperstr.CanongasseHans-Sachs-GasseGentzgasseSchopenhauer Str.PrechtlgasseTendlergasseGiesser-gasseSeverin-gasseHöfergasseMariannengasseSkodagasseLaudongasseKochgasseLammgasseLederergasseFlorianigasseLangeGasseFlorianigasseAnastasius-Grün-GasseViriot-gasseWähringer StrasseLustkandlgasseNussdorferStrasseCanisiusgassePulverturmgasseThavonatgasseHeiligenstädter Str.SobieskigasseSternwartestr.SpitalgasseLazarettgasseColloredogasseAnton Frank GasseHaizingergasseHofstattg.WähringerstrasseGymnasiumstrasseMartinstrasseAbtKarlGasseSchulgasseKreuzgasseStaudgasseAntonigasseSchumanngasseBorschkegasseLeo Slezak GasseTheresiengasseWähringerGürtelWähringerGürtelHernalserGürtelHernalserGürtelAlserstrasseKinderspitalgasseJörgerstrasseBreitenfeldergasseFlorianigasseJosefstädterstrasseBennogasseBlindengasseFeldgasseWeimarerstrasseCottagegasseLiechtensteinstr.Museum fürVolkskundeEvangelischesKrankenhausAllgemeinesKrankenhausF.-SchubertsGeburtshausJosephinumMuseumAllgemeinePoliklinikPrivatklinikJosefstadtO. Wagner-PlatzFrankh-platzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzWider-hofer-platzSchönbornParkWähringerParkA.Carlsson-ParkFlorianiparkSchubertParkJOSEFSTADT8.RATHAUSWÄHRINGER STR.-VOLKSOPERNUSSDORFERSTR.MICHELBEUERNALSER STRASSEJOSEFSTÄDTERSTRASSEMaria-TreuKlosterMaria deMercedesVolksoperUniversitäts-campusAltesAKH Univ. WienWähringerGürtelSpitalgasseNussdorferStr.AlserstrasseWähringerGürtelBuchfeldgasseSensengasseBoltzmanngasseFuchsthallergasseSechsschimmelgasseBleichergasseW.ExnergasseBindergasseSäulengasseSchubertgasseSemperstr.MollgasseMichaelerstr.Semperstr.CanongasseHans-Sachs-GasseGentzgasseSchopenhauer Str.PrechtlgasseTendlergasseGiesser-gasseSeverin-gasseHöfergasseMariannengasseSkodagasseLaudongasseKochgasseLammgasseLederergasseFlorianigasseLangeGasseFlorianigasseAnastasius-Grün-GasseViriot-gasseWähringer StrasseLustkandlgasseNussdorferStrasseCanisiusgassePulverturmgasseThavonatgasseHeiligenstädter Str.SobieskigasseSternwartestr.SpitalgasseLazarettgasseColloredogasseAnton Frank GasseHaizingergasseHofstattg.WähringerstrasseGymnasiumstrasseMartinstrasseAbtKarlGasseSchulgasseKreuzgasseStaudgasseAntonigasseSchumanngasseBorschkegasseLeo Slezak GasseTheresiengasseWähringerGürtelWähringerGürtelHernalserGürtelHernalserGürtelAlserstrasseKinderspitalgasseJörgerstrasseBreitenfeldergasseFlorianigasseJosefstädterstrasseBennogasseBlindengasseFeldgasseWeimarerstrasseCottagegasseLiechtensteinstr.Museum fürVolkskundeEvangelischesKrankenhausAllgemeinesKrankenhausF.-SchubertsGeburtshausJosephinumMuseumAllgemeinePoliklinikPrivatklinikJosefstadtO. Wagner-PlatzFrankh-platzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzWider-hofer-platzSchönbornParkWähringerParkA.Carlsson-ParkFlorianiparkSchubertParkJOSEFSTADT8.RATHAUSWÄHRINGER STR.-VOLKSOPERNUSSDORFERSTR.MICHELBEUERNALSER STRASSEJOSEFSTÄDTERSTRASSEMaria-TreuKlosterMaria deMercedesVolksoperBabu 1B72 4Q [kju:] 3rhiz 5Weinstadt 21/4 mi00 0.25 kmU-BahnChurchPost OfficeTheaterHospitalMuseumWalking PathU25314Gürtel Nightlife
  • 137. Sekt (sparkling wine) is a popular aperitifin many of Vienna’s bars, and especiallyhere at the Sektcomptoir.129ViennaNightlifeAtoZbooks and vinyl records. Gumpen-dorferstrasse 10–12. y 01 5810489. www.phil.info. U-Bahn 2(MuseumsQuartier). Map p 125.★★ Planter’s Club ALSERGRUND The leather seats and potted palmsof this colonial-style bar attract achic set for cocktails, and there’s awide choice of rum and whisky.Lively Latin beats tempt customersonto the small dance floor. Zelinka-gasse 4. y 01 533 3393-15. www.plantersclub.com. U-Bahn 2/4 (Schot-tenring). Map p 126.★★★ Red Room RINGSTRASSE Located beneath Comida (a smartHispano-Caribbean restaurant), thisüber-chic red bar serves exemplarycocktails to the smart set while theDJ spins lively Black beats on an illu-minated dance floor. Stubenring 20.y 01 512 4024. www.comida.at/redroom. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Mapp 126.Bars★★★ Aux Gazelles MQ  Thistiny oriental-themed club is great forchilling out to mellow Arabianrhythms. Sip an exotic cocktail Bed-ouin-style on comfy cushions in itsintimate, sumptuous interior. Rahl-gasse 5. y 01 585 6645. www.auxgazelles.at. U-Bahn 2 (Museums-Quartier). Map p 125.★★★ Le K-Fé KARMELITER  Sipchampagne with Vienna’s elite inthis boxy minimalist bar with wrap-around glass and dazzling city vistason the 18th floor of the Sofitel Hotel.Advance booking for cocktails atsunset essential at weekends. HotelSofitel (18th floor), Praterstrasse 1.y 01 906 161-0.U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwe-denplatz). Map p 126.★★ Lutz MQ  A lively crowd fre-quents the trendy Lutz bar with itsgleaming cocktail bar, wraparoundleather banquettes, and cigar menu.There’s a choice of over 200 cock-tails, long drinks, and champagnes.Arrive after 10pm. Mariahilfer-strasse 3. y 01 585 3646. www.lutz-bar.at. U-Bahn 2 (Museums-Quartier). Map p 125.★★★ Meinl’s Weinbar CITY CEN-TER  Informal yet classy, this beau-tiful basement wine bar is part ofthe city’s celebrated Meinl delicates-sen empire. It serves an impressiverange of wines, grappas, cham-pagnes, and brandies by the glass.Graben 19 (entrance at Näglergasse8). y 01 532 33 34 6100. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 126.★★★ phil MQ  A quirky bar andfunky furniture shop resembling alarge sitting-room, except thateverything has a price tag attached.Join the laid-back (non-smoking)crowd, and browse through theVienna Nightlife A to Z
  • 138. 130TheBestNightlifeStiftgasse. y 01 526 1215. www.plutzerbraeu.at. Tram 49 (Stift-gasse). Map p 125.★★★ Siebenstern Bräuwirt-shaus NEUBAU  A lively brew-pubwith its own range of eightdistinctive beers brewedin situ and served inrustic cellar rooms orunder the shade ofchestnut trees in thebeer-garden. Try theChili Beer. Sieben-sterngasse 19. y 01523 8697. www.7stern.at. Tram 49(Stiftgasse). Map p125.Dance Clubs★★★ Badeschiff CITY CEN-TER  Enjoy cocktails with the beau-tiful people, and DJ sounds fromhip-hop and Indie to Turbo-Folk andBalkan beats on this funky summer-time moored “ship” on the DanubeCanal. There’s a swimming pool too.Donaukanallände (between Schwe-denbrücke and Urania). y 0699 15130749. www.badeschiff.at. U-Bahn 1/4(Schwedenplatz). Mapp 126.★★★ Flex ALSERGRUND  The bestdance club in town, famous for itsawesome sound system, with top-notch DJs and a huge variety of cut-ting-edge beats, including techno,Indie, and underground rock. Go onTuesday nights for Viennese elec-tronica at its best. Donaukanal (bythe Augartenbrücke). y 01 5337525. www.flex.at. €3 cover. U-Bahn2/4 (Schottenring). Map p 126.★★ Market NASCHMARKT Striking futuristic visuals, electronicsounds, themed DJ nights, and liveconcerts draw a hip crowd to thislively dance club in the former vaultof a bank. Linke Wienzeile 36. Nophone. http://markette.wordpress.★★ Sektcomptoir NASCHMARKT Just off the Naschmarkt, this diminu-tive locals’ bar is an ideal place torelax and relish a glass of Sekt (spar-kling wine) after a long day’s sight-seeing. Schleifmühlgasse 19. y 0664432 5388. www.sektcomptoir.at. U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Mapp 125.★★ Steirisch-PubSPITTELBERG Tinylocals’ bar, brimmingwith rural atmo-sphere, and withjust a handful ofseats. Open mostnights until dawn.Siebensterngasse 17.y 0699 11227141.www.steirisch-pub.at.U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). Mapp 125.★★ Strandbar Herrmann CITYCENTER  Soak up the holiday moodat this lively summertime beach barbeside the Danube Canal, with itsgolden sandy beach, Mediterranean-style bar, cheerful cocktails, andtrendy DJ sounds. Herrmannpark/Urania. No phone. www.strandbar-herrmann.at. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schweden-platz). Map p 126.★★★ Weinorgel CITY CENTER  Atiny brick-clad wine bar in the vaultsof a former Gothic monastery. Pea-nuts and sawdust bestrew a simplewooden floor. World wines by theglass. Bäckerstrasse 2. y 01 5131227. www.weinorgel.at. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 126.Beer Cellars★★ Plutzer Bräu SPITTEL-BERG  This hugely popular loft-styleBierkeller with brick vaulting andlong, blond-wood trestle-tables is aSpittelberg stalwart. In summer, thetables spill on to an attractive cob-bled terrace. Schrankgasse 2/corner
  • 139. 131ViennaNightlifeAtoZ1789. www.cafe-willendorf.at.U-Bahn 4 (Pilgramgasse). Map p 125.Live Music★ Adria Wien KARMELITER  Apopular canalside, open-air beach-bar and live band venue (summermonths only). Obere Donaustrasse(between Salztorbrücke and Augar-tenbrücke). y 0660 312 47 03.www.adriawien.at. U-Bahn 1/4(Schwedenplatz). Map p 126.★★★ Eden Bar CITY CENTER Anyone who’s anyone in Viennadrinks at this atmospheric, sophisti-cated bar with its plush-red, ArtDeco interior and live music nightlyfrom 10pm. Dress smartly (menmust wear ties). Liliengasse 2.y 01 512 7450. www.edenbar.at.U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 126.★ fluc PRATER  This rugged baris one of the best places in townto hear live, experimental, elec-tronic, and Indie acts, while FlucWanne in the basement stageselectro and disco parties puttingout a broad range of DJ sounds.Praterstern 5. y 01 218 2824.com. U-Bahn 4 (Kettenbrücken-gasse). Map p 125.★★★ passage RINGSTRASSE This futuristic club in a former sub-way has minimalist decor and anultra-cool lighting system. Back-drops morph to suit varying sounds(house, disco, hip-hop, funk, etc.) ondifferent nights. Babenburgerpas-sage, Burgring 1. y 01 961 8800.www.sunshine.at. Tram 1/2/D (Bur-gring). Map p 125.★★★ Prater Sauna  A formersauna and swimming complex, thisis now one of Vienna’s hottestclubs, offering up techno and elec-tro beats. Waldsteingartenstrasse135. y 01 72 91 927. www.pratersauna.tv. U-Bahn 2 (Messe Prater).Map p 126.★★★ Volksgarten RINGSTRASSE Vienna’s beautiful people love thishot and happening party complex.It’s all here—house, hip-hop, soul,techno, funk, salsa … plus an idyllicgarden and an electronic roof thatopens for moonlit dancing in sum-mer. Burgring 1. y 01 532 4241.www.volksgarten.at. €5–€15(depending on event). Fri–Sat from11pm. Tram 1/2/D (Burgring). Mapp 125.Gay & Lesbian★★ Café Savoy NASCHMARKT A long-established gay bar, with atraditional cafe atmosphere thanksto its plush furnishings, giant mir-rors, statuary, and stucco decor.Linke Wienzeile 36. y 699 18126391. www.savoy.at. U-Bahn 4(Kettenbrückengasse). Map p 125.★★ Café Willendorf NASCH-MARKT  The affectionately namedRosa Lila Villa (pink-purple villa) is atthe heart of the Viennese gay andlesbian scene. The inviting court-yard garden is open in summer.Linke Wienzeile 102. y 01 587Indie and underground rock at Flex.
  • 140. 132TheBestNightlife★★★ Porgy & Bess STADTPARK This relaxed, modern jazz joint in aformer porn cinema is hugely popu-lar thanks to its eclectic program ofworld-class home-grown and inter-national modern and non-traditionaljazz acts. Riemergasse 11. y 01 5128811. www.porgy.at. U-Bahn 3(Stubentor). Map p 126.•www.fluc.at. U-Bahn 1/2 (Prater-stern). Map p 126.★★ Jazzland CITY CENTER  Forover 30 years, this brick-built club ina cellar under Ruprechtskirche (St.Rupert’s Church) has showcased thebest of Austrian and internationaljazz, from blues, Dixie, and swing tomodern jazz. Franz-Josefs-Kai 29.y 01 533 2575. www.jazzland.at.Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schweden-platz). Map p 126.The Gürtel ring-road is currently the nerve center of Vienna’snightlife. Beneath the Jugendstil arches of the city railway designedby Otto Wagner lies a mixed bag of dance clubs, pubs, and bars. It’sthe in-place to party all night long to the sound of trains rumblingoverhead. Start: Josefstädter Strasse U-Bahn station.★★ rhiz  One of the cradles of Vienna’s renowned electronicascene, this laid-back Internet cafe-bar remains a popular platformfor new projects and experiments in electronic music. Stadtbahnbö-gen 37–38, Lerchenfelder Gürtel. y 01 409 2505. www.rhiz.org.Map p 128.★ B72  Situated under Arch 72 of the Gürtel, this old-timer’s spe-cialty is alternative live music and electronic sounds. Dark, smoky,and split-level, it draws a lively young crowd. Stadtbahnbögen72–73, Hernalser Gürtel. y 01 409 2128. www.b72.at. Map p 128.★★★ Q [kju:]  There’s always a great party mood at Q, where theclientele are young and carefree, the cocktails potent, the barmenflashy, and the dance music loud. It’s easy to find, occupying threearches bathed in pink, red, and green fluorescent light. Relaxeddoor policy. Stadtbahnbögen 142–144, Währinger Gürtel.y 01 8045055. www.kju-bar.at. Map p 128.★★ Weinstadt  This soothing wine bar, simply decorated withbare brick vaults, is the perfect place to relax with friends. It offersan excellent choice of local and international wines, including chalk-board specials, to wash down platters of cold cuts, cheeses, andolives. Stadtbahnbögen 154, Währinger Gürtel. y 0664 734 11786. www.weinstadt.cc. Map p 128.★★★ Babu  The place to see and be seen, this long-standing cock-tail lounge and dance club attracts a cool crowd. It’s a lively venueon several floors. Dress smartly, there’s a strict door policy. Stadt-bahnbögen 181–184, Nussdorferstrasse. y 0699 11754072. www.babu.at. Cover charge varies. Map p 128.Gürtel Party Tour
  • 141. 8 The Best Arts &Entertainment
  • 142. 134TheBestArts&EntertainmentBest Ecclesiastical Sounds★★ Augustinerkirche, Augustiner-strasse 3 (p 137)Best Cinema to Snooze in★★★ Burgkino, Opernring 19 (p 138)Best Place to Meet a MozartLook-alikeKonzerte im Mozarthaus, Singer-strasse 7 (p 137)Best Chance of Getting Stand-ing-Room Tickets★★ Volksoper, Währingerstrasse 78(p 139)Best Ballet★★★ Das Wiener Staatsballett,Staatsoper, Opernring 2 (p 138)Best Acoustics★★★ Musikverein, Karlsplatz/Bösendorferstrasse 12 (p 137)Most Angelic Choirboys★★★ Wiener Sängerknaben, Sch-weizerhof (p 138)Best Show for Kids★★ Lilarum Puppet Theater, Gölln-ergasse 8 (p 140)Best ‘Jungle’ in Town★★ Dschungel Wien, Museums-platz 1 (p 140)Most Palatial Setting for aConcert★ Schönbrunner Schlosskonzerte,Orangerie Schönbrunn (p 137)The Hottest Ticket in Town★★★ Staatsoper, Opernring 2 (p 139)Arts & Entertainment Best BetsBest acoustics at Musikverein.Previous page: Mozart souvenirs.
  • 143. 135City Center Arts & EntertainmentA&EBestBetsUUUUUUUUUAmHeumarkRechteWienzeileAmStadtparkParkringKärntnerRingSchubertringDr.-K.-RennerRingWollzeileWeiskirchnerstrassVordereZollamtsstrasseHerrengasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.BognergasseFärber-gasseSchaufler-gasseSeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgasseDumbastr.Volksgartenstr.Bellariastr.Reichsratsstr.Wallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseKollergasseWiesingerstr.BechardgasseKegelgasseOberViaduktgasseSalmgasseCobden-gasseUnterViaduktgasseGeusaugasseRosenbursen-strasseMarxergasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseÖlzeltgasseRochusgasseJohannesgasseSalesianergasseStadiongasseSingerstr.BeatrixgasseLöwelstr.Invalidenstr.Lisztstr.Linke BahngasseRechte BahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteKohlmarktTuchlaubenBurgringOpernringFleischmarkLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr. StubenringSchallautzerStr.GetreidemarktDorotheergasseAugustiner Str.GriechengasseWeihburggasseMariahilferStrasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseLandstrasserHauptstr.Baumannstr.UngargasseReisner Str.Beatrix-gasseHintereZollamtsstr.Bräunerstr.AlbertinaSt.ElisabethKrankenhausLeopoldMuseumMUMOKHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzEste-platzMinoriten-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzRadetzky-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAmModena-ParkkKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSESCHWEDEN-PLATZVOLKS-THEATERMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKStephansdomSt.PeterStiftskaseRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastAmHeumarkRechteWienzeileAmStadtparkParkringKärntnerRingSchubertringDr.-K.-RennerRingWollzeileWeiskirchnerstrassVordereZollamtsstrasseHerrengasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.BognergasseFärber-gasseSchaufler-gasseSeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgasseDumbastr.Volksgartenstr.Bellariastr.Reichsratsstr.Wallnerstr.Liebenberg-gasseKollergasseWiesingerstr.BechardgasseKegelgasseOberViaduktgasseSalmgasseCobden-gasseUnterViaduktgasseGeusaugasseRosenbursen-strasseMarxergasseRotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseÖlzeltgasseRochusgasseJohannesgasseSalesianergasseStadiongasseSingerstr.BeatrixgasseLöwelstr.Invalidenstr.Lisztstr.Linke BahngasseRechte BahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteKohlmarktTuchlaubenBurgringOpernringFleischmarkLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr. StubenringSchallautzerStr.GetreidemarktDorotheergasseAugustiner Str.GriechengasseWeihburggasseMariahilferStrasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseLandstrasserHauptstr.Baumannstr.UngargasseReisner Str.Beatrix-gasseHintereZollamtsstr.Bräunerstr.AlbertinaSt.ElisabethKrankenhausLeopoldMuseumMUMOKHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzMaria-Theresien-PlatzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzStephans-platzBeethoven-platzEste-platzMinoriten-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzRadetzky-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenStadtparkVolksgartenAmModena-ParkkKarlsplatzINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTEHERREN-GASSESCHWEDEN-PLATZVOLKS-THEATERMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKStephansdomSt.PeterStiftskaseRathausParlamentJustiz-Palast11312710843911256Akademietheater11Augustinerkirche3Burgkino4DasWienerStaatsballett5Kammeroper8KonzerteimMozarthaus7Konzerthaus10KursalonWien12LilarumPuppetTheater13Musikfilmfestival1Musikverein9Staatsoper6WienerSängerknaben21/4mi000.25kmU-BahnInformationChurchPostOfficeHospitalMuseumWalkingPathU
  • 144. UUUOperngasseMuseumstr.TeOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseTreitlstr.MühlgasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorfer StrasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseSiebensterngasseSpiBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktAugustinerStr.BurggasseMariahilfer StrasseWiednerHauptstr.Linke WienzeileBurgtorLeopoldMuseumKunst-HalleMUMOKSecessionRilke-platzMaria-Theresien-Platz AlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzBurg-GartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERVOLKS-THEATERMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt. Joseph-kircheStaatsStiftskaseOperngasseMuseumstr.TeOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseTreitlstr.MühlgasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseWindmühlgasseGumpendorfer StrasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseSiebensterngasseSpiBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktAugustinerStr.BurggasseMariahilfer StrasseWiednerHauptstr.Linke WienzeileBurgtorLeopoldMuseumKunst-HalleMUMOKSecessionRilke-platzMaria-Theresien-Platz AlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzBurg-GartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERVOLKS-THEATERMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskircheSt. Joseph-kircheStaatsStiftskaseDschungel Wien 3Raimund Theater 5SchönbrunnerSchlosskonzerte 6Tanzquartier Wien 2Theater an der Wien 4Volkstheater 11/4 mi00 0.25 km142653U-BahnChurchMuseumWalking PathULiechtensteinMuseumMuseum fürVolkskundeEvangelischesKrankenhausAllgemeinesKrankenhausSigmundFreudMueumMoyaJosephinumMuseumPathologisch-Anatomisches-BundesmuseumAllgemeinePoliklinikPrivatklinikJosefstadtMaria-TreuKlosterSchottenstiftServiten-kircheMaria amGestadeVotivkircheDreifaltigkeits-kircheMaria deMercedesAugarten-brückeRossauerBrückeSalbrüUUUUUDonaukanalUniversitäts-campusAltesAKH Univ.WienUntereAugartenstr.RembrandtstrasseDr.-Karl-LuegerRingWähringerStr.SchottenringSpitalgasseAlserbachstr.NussdorferStr.PorzellangasseAlserstrasseJosefstädterstr.TürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseHessgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.Schlösser-gasseBerggasseThurngasseSensengasseMariannengassePiaristen-gasseFlorianigasseLangeGasseLöwelstr.SpitalgasseLazarettgasseRossauerLändeObereDonaustrasseLiechtensteinstr.Währinger GürtelLiechtensteinParkRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkVolks-gartenSchönbornParkA.Carlsson-ParkJOSEFSTADT8.ALSERGRUND9.SCHOTTENTORSCHOTTENRINGROSSAUERLÄNDERATHAUSWÄHRINGER STR.-VOLKSOPERDonaukanalUniversitäts-campusAltesAKH Univ.WienUntereAugartenstr.RembrandtstrasseDr.-Karl-LuegerRingWähringerStr.SchottenringSpitalgasseAlserbachstr.NussdorferStr.PorzellangasseAlserstrasseJosefstädterstr.TürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseHessgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.Schlösser-gasseBerggasseThurngasseSensengasseMariannengassePiaristen-gasseFlorianigasseLangeGasseLöwelstr.SpitalgasseLazarettgasseRossauerLändeObereDonaustrasseLiechtensteinstr.Währinger GürtelLiechtensteinParkRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkVolks-gartenSchönbornParkA.Carlsson-ParkJOSEFSTADT8.ALSERGRUND9.SCHOTTENTORSCHOTTENRINGROSSAUERLÄNDERATHAUSWÄHRINGER STR.-VOLKSOPERU-BahnUBurgtheater 5Schauspielhaus 2Theater in der Josefstadt 3Vienna’s English Theatre 4Volksoper 1143251/4 mi00 0.25 km136TheBestArts&EntertainmentMQ Arts & EntertainmentCity Center West A&E
  • 145. 137Arts&EntertainmentAtoZ★ Kursalon Wien STADTPARKCheerfully enjoyable (albeit verytouristy) soirées of Viennese waltzclassics with the Salonorchester AltWien. Johannesgasse 33. y 01 5125790. www.kursalonwien.at. Tickets€40–€90 (€69–€124 includingdinner). U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark). Mapp 135.★★★ Musikverein CITY CENTERVenue for the city’s celebrated NewYear’s Day concert, performed bythe resident Vienna PhilharmonicOrchestra, one of the finest in theworld. Karlsplatz/Bösendorferstrasse12. y 01 505 8190. www.musikverein.at. Tickets €5 (standingonly)–€79. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).Map p 135.★ Schönbrunner Schloss-konzerte SCHÖNBRUNN Stepback in time at one of the daily con-certs of popular Viennese classicsstaged in the Orangery of theSchönbrunn Palace, where Mozartonce performed. Orangerie Schönb-runn. y 01 812 5004-0. www.imagevienna.com. Tickets €40–€79. U-Bahn 4 (Schönbrunn). Mapp 136.Classical Music★★ Augustinerkirche HOFBURG The Gothic Augustinian Churchboasts fine acoustics, and sacredworks by Haydn, Mozart, andSchubert are frequently performedhere during Sunday Mass (11am).Augustinerstrasse 3 (entrance onJosefsplatz). y 01 533 70990. www.hochamt.at. Free admission. U-Bahn3 (Herrengasse). Map p 135.★ Konzerte im MozarthausCITY CENTER  Listen to Mozart,Haydn, Schubert, and Beethovenchamber music in the intimate SalaTerrena of the Deutschordenshaus,where Mozart used to live and playin 1781. Concerts Thursday to Sun-day. Singerstrasse 7. y 01 9119077. www.mozarthaus.at. Tickets€29, €47. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephans-platz). Map p 135.★★ Konzerthaus STADTPARK Amajor venue for classical symphonyand chamber music, played by theresident Vienna Symphony Orches-tra and other renowned ensembles.Lothringerstrasse 20. y 01 242 002.www.konzerthaus.at. Ticket pricesvary. U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark). Mapp 135.Arts & Entertainment A to ZThe Kursalon—the place to hear Strauss waltzes.
  • 146. 138TheBestArts&Entertainmentthe summer festival season. Mostpopular is the Musikfilmfestival inRathausplatz, which takes place fromJune to August. When darkness falls,free screenings of opera and con-certs are shown against a dramaticilluminated backdrop of the City Hall.Rathausplatz. No phone. U-Bahn 2(Rathaus). Map p 135.Dance★★★ Das Wiener StaatsballettCITY CENTER  World-class balletproductions—plus a glittering list ofguest artistes. Staatsoper, Oper-nring 2. y 01 514 440. Tickets€3–€4 (standing only), €8–€250.Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Map p 135.★★★ Tanzquartier Wien MQVienna’s leading dance centerhosts an ambitious program oflocal and international troupes,with the main emphasis on experi-mental dance. Halle G, Kunsthalle,MuseumsQuartier, Museumsplatz 1.★★★ Wiener SängerknabenHOFBURG  Founded over 500 yearsago, the Vienna Boys’ Choir is per-haps the most famous of its kind inthe world. Hear them sing Mass atthe Hofburg’s ancient Burgkapelleon Sundays (mid-Sept to June) at9:15am. Schweizerhof. y 01 5539927. www.hofburgkapelle.at, www.wsk.at. Tickets €5–€29. U-Bahn 3(Herrengasse). Map p 135.Cinema★★★ Burgkino RINGSTRASSEThis tiny, old-fashioned cinema showsonly English-language movies, andregular late-night screenings of TheThird Man (set in post-World-War-IIVienna) in its original British version.Opernring 19. y 01 587 8406. www.burgkino.at. Tickets €7–€8.50. Tram1/2/D (Oper). Map p 135.★★ Musikfilmfestival RING-STRASSE  Vienna has 15 differentvenues for open-air cinema duringGet details of what’s on when from tourist offices, or in the list-ings magazine Falter (www.falter.at), published every Wednesdayand available from a Tabak (newsagent) or a sidewalk kiosk. Ticketscan be bought in advance directly from the individual venues oronline at ticketing agencies such as Austria Ticket Online (www.austriaticket.at) or Club Ticket (www.clubticket.at). The Wien-Ticket Pavillon ticket-booth beside the opera house(Karajanplatz; y 01 588 85; Mon–Sat 10am–7pm) sells tickets for allvenues. The Bundestheaterkassen (State Ticket Office) sells ticketsfor the Akademietheater, Burgtheater, Staatsoper, and Volksoper(Operngasse 2; y 01 514 447 880; www.bundestheater.at; Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat–Sun 9am–noon; Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Book as early as you can: ticket sales at many venues (includingthe Staatsoper, Volksoper, Theater an der Wien, and Musikverein)begin months ahead of the performance. Some venues offer limitednumbers of last-minute standing-only tickets. The Staatsoper, forinstance, releases 567 standing-room tickets 80 minutes before theperformance starts—a bargain if you’re patient enough to queue.How to Get Tickets
  • 147. 139Arts&EntertainmentAtoZOpera” is the city’s leading operettahouse. It also stages light opera,classical musicals, and ballet.Währingerstrasse 78. y 01 51444-3318. www.volksoper.at. Tickets€2–€3 (standing only), €5–€80.U-Bahn 6 (Volksoper). Map p 136.Theater★ Akademietheater STADTPARKThis excellent repertory theater (asecond venue for the Burgtheater)covers everything from classic tocontemporary drama. Lisztstrasse 1.y 01 514 44-4740. www.akademietheater.at. Tickets €2.50(standing only), €5–€51. U-Bahn 4(Stadtpark). Map p 135.★★★ Burgtheater RINGSTRASSEThe National Theater is one of thebest German-speaking theaters inthe world. The resplendent foyer hasstairway frescoes painted by Klimt.Dr-Karl-Lueger-Ring 2. y 01 514 44.www.burgtheater.at. Tickets €2.50(standing only), €5–€51. Tram 1/2/D(Burgtheater). Map p 136.y 01 581 3591. www.tqw.at. U-Bahn2/3 (Volkstheater). Map p 136.Opera & Musicals★★ Kammeroper CITY CENTERThis small opera house puts on avaried repertoire of everything fromclassic operetta and opera buffa(comic opera) to rock opera andmore quirky contemporary musicaltheater. Fleischmarkt 24. y 01 5120100-77. www.wienerkammeroper.at. Tickets €5 (standing only), €17–€72. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).Map p 135.★★ Raimund Theater MARIA-HILF  In recent years, this theaterhas made its name as the definitivevenue for musical comedy, premier-ing the German-language versionsof blockbuster hits such as Cats andPhantom of the Opera. Wallgasse18–20. y 01 588 85. www.musicalvienna.at. Tickets €5 (standing only),€10–€109. U-Bahn 6 (Gumpendor-ferstrasse). Map p 136.★★★ Staatsoper CITY CENTEROne of Europe’s finest operahouses, with daily performancesfrom September to June, and kids’opera in summer. Opernring 2.y 01 514 447 880 (tickets). www.wiener-staatsoper.at. Tickets €3–€4(standing only), €8–€250. Tram1/2/D (Oper). Map p 135.★★ Theater an der WienNASCHMARKT  Founded in 1801 asan opera house, this plush theaterpremiered Mozart’s Die Zauberflöte,Beethoven’s Fidelio, and JohannStrauss’s Die Fledermaus. Today, asVienna’s second opera house, ithosts 12 productions a year and itsprogram changes monthly. LinkeWienzeile6.y 0158885.www.theater-wien.at. Tickets €12–€160. U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 136.★★ Volksoper ALSERGRUNDAffordable and fun, the “People’sBook in advance for a night at the Opera.
  • 148. 140TheBestArts&Entertainment★ Theater in der JosefstadtJOSEFSTADT  One of Vienna’s old-est, best-loved, and most ornatetheaters, founded in 1788, andknown for its lightweight plays,comedies, and farces. Josefstädter-strasse 26. y 01 42700-300. www.josefstadt.org. Tickets €4 (standingonly), €5–€63. Bus 13A (Theater inder Josefstadt). Map p 136.★★ Vienna’s English TheatreJOSEFSTADT  Continental Europe’soldest English-language theater wasfounded in 1963, and offers year-round performances of English andAmerican classics, comedies, andcontemporary works. Josefgasse 12.y 01 402 12600. www.englishtheatre.at. Tickets €22–€42. U-Bahn2 (Rathaus). Map p 136.★ Volkstheater MQ  With anauditorium holding nearly a thou-sand people, this is one of the city’slargest theaters. It puts on anexceptionally broad repertoire,embracing classic and modern playsand operetta. Neustiftgasse 1. y 0152 111-400. www.volkstheater.at.Tickets €9–€46. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volks-theater). Map p 136.★★ =Dschungel Wien MQLanguage is no barrier for kids atthe lively “Jungle” family arts centerwith theater, dance, puppet shows,video, and music workshops for kidsaged 2 and over. Museumsplatz 1.y 01 522 0720-20. www.dschungelwien.at. Tickets €7.50. U-Bahn 2(MuseumsQuartier). Map p 136.★★ =Lilarum Puppet The-ater LANDSTRASSE  Kids (aged3–10) find the Lilarum’s mini-playsenchanting, with their charminghand- and rod-puppets. The storiesseem to transcend any languagebarriers. Göllnergasse 8. y 01 7102666. www.lilarum.at. Tickets €7.60.U-Bahn 3 (Kardinal-Nagl-Platz). Mapp 135.★★★ Schauspielhaus ALSERGR-UND  Of Vienna’s 50-plus theaters,the Schauspielhaus is at the fore-front of contemporary produc-tions—often of a thought-provoking,controversial, or alternative nature.Porzellangasse 19. y 01 317 0101.www.schauspielhaus.at. Tickets €18adults; €9 students; €12 conces-sions. Tram D (Bauernfeldplatz).Map p 136.The Vienna Boys’ Choir (Wiener Sängerknaben, www.wsk.at)was founded in 1498 as part of the imperial choir. Originally it com-prised just 12 boys. Over the centuries it grew in size, and countedmusical luminaries such as Haydn and Schubert among its mem-bers. Nowadays Vienna’s leading choir is a highly commercializedand rather overhyped organization. Four separate choirs, eachconsisting of 24 angelic choirboys, continuously tour the world, nolonger dressed in imperial costumes, but in twee blue sailor-suits. InVienna, they sing Sunday Mass in the Burgkapelle and give occa-sional concerts in the Musikverein.Vienna Boys’ Choir
  • 149. 9 The Best Lodging
  • 150. 142TheBestLodgingBest for Families★★ Lassalle, Engerthstrasse173–175 (p 152)Most Historic Hotel (also Bestfor Chocolate Cake)★★★ Sacher, Philharmoniker-strasse 4 (p 153)Worst for the Wallet★★★ Palais Coburg Residenz,Coburgbastei 4 (p 152)Best for Design Buffs★★★ Das Triest, Wiedner Haupt-strasse 12 (p 149)Best for Design Buffs on aTight Budget★★ = Roomz, Paragonstrasse 1(p 153)Most Eccentric Decor★★ Kuchlmasterei, Obere Weiss-gerberstrasse 6 (p 151)Most Centrally Located★★★ Do & Co, Stephansplatz 12(p 149)Most Environmentally-FriendlyHotel★★ Hotel am Stephansplatz,Stephansplatz 9 (p 151)Most Spectacular Cityscapes★★★ Schloss Wilhelminenberg,Savoyenstrasse 2 (p 153)Best for Wine Connoisseurs★★★ Rathaus Wein & Design,Lange Gasse 13 (p 152)Most Royal Welcome★★★ Imperial, Kärtner Ring 16(p 151)Best Urban Luxury★★★ Sofitel Vienna Stephans-dom, Praterstrasse 1 (p 153)Best “Beach” Hotel★★ Strand Hotel Alte Donau,Wagramerstrasse 51 (p 154)Best Boutique Hotel★★★ Altstadt, Kirchengasse 41(p 148)Best for a Romantic Getaway★★★ Hollmann Beletage, Köllner-hofgasse 6 (p 150)Best Spa Hotel★★ The Ring, Kärtner Ring 8 (p 153)Best See-and-be-Seen Hotel★★★ Le Méridien, Opernring 13–15(p 152)Lodging Best BetsPrevious page: Rathaus Wein & Design.Sacher—Vienna’s most historic hotel.
  • 151. 143LodgingBestBetsUUUUUUAmHeumarkRechteWienzeileParkringKärntnerRingOperngassFavoritenstr.SchubertrinPrinz-Eugen-StrasseMuseumstr.MargaretenstrassArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseUngargasseNeulinggasseFasangasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchelling-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrasseMühlgasseFloragasseMozartgasseTaubstummen-gassePaulanergasseTheobaldgasseGumpendorferStrasseKantgasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanerg.ÖlzeltgasseTongassRochusgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseSchleifmühlgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergasseWehrgasseFranzensgassePlösslgasseJuchgasseBarichgasseSchützengasseKlimschgasseWehrgasseGerlgasseJacquingasseAspangstr.MBeatrixgasseObereBahngasseLisztstr.Linke BahngassRechte BahngassBurgringOpernringDapontegasseGetreidemarktResselparkKettenbrücken-gasseMariahilferStrasseWaaggasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseRennwegLandstrasserHauptstr.Baumannstr.UngargasseBeatrixgasseWiednerHauptstr.LinkWienzeileAlbertinaSt.ElisabethKrankenhausLeopoldMuseumMUMOKUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergKrankenhausRudolfsstiftungRilke-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzBeethoven-platzAlbertinaPlatzSchwarzenberg-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzFasanplatzBrahms-platzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzBotanischerGartenDerUniversitätWienSchwarzenberg-GartenBelvedere-GartenBurg-GartenStadtparkArenberg-ParkAlfred-Grünwald-ParkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERVOLKS-THEATERKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERTAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKARLS-PLATZSTADTPARKSalesianer-klosterAmHeumarktRechteWienzeileParkringKärntnerRingOperngassFavoritenstr.SchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseMuseumstr.MargaretenstrassArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseUngargasseNeulinggasseFasangasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchelling-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.GoethegasseBösendorferstr.LehárgassePaniglgasseResselgasseDumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrasseMühlgasseFloragasseMozartgasseTaubstummen-gassePaulanergasseTheobaldgasseGumpendorferStrasseKantgasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanerg.ÖlzeltgasseTongassRochusgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseSchleifmühlgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergasseWehrgasseFranzensgassePlösslgasseJuchgasseBarichgasseSchützengasseKlimschgasseWehrgasseGerlgasseJacquingasseAspangstr.MBeatrixgasseObereBahngasseLisztstr.Linke BahngassRechte BahngassBurgringOpernringDapontegasseGetreidemarktResselparkKettenbrücken-gasseMariahilferStrasseWaaggasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseLothringerstrasseRennwegLandstrasserHauptstr.Baumannstr.UngargasseBeatrixgasseWiednerHauptstr.LinkWienzeileAlbertinaSt.ElisabethKrankenhausLeopoldMuseumMUMOKUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergKrankenhausRudolfsstiftungRilke-platzMaria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzBeethoven-platzAlbertinaPlatzSchwarzenberg-platzR.-Stolz-PlatzFasanplatzBrahms-platzSchillerplatzAnton-Weber-PlatzBotanischerGartenDerUniversitätWienSchwarzenberg-GartenBelvedere-GartenBurg-GartenStadtparkArenberg-ParkAlfred-Grünwald-ParkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERVOLKS-THEATERKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERTAUBSTUMMEN-GASSEKARLS-PLATZSTADTPARKSalesianer-kloster1/4mi000.25kmBristol5DasTriest3DasTyrol1DreiKronen2Imperial7LeMéridien4TheRing6StarlightSuitenHotelamHeumarkt8U-BahnInformationChurchPostOfficeHospitalMuseumWalkingPathU12435678City Center South Lodging
  • 152. 144TheBestLodgingUUUUUURechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMargaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasesStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgassGumpendorfer StrasseStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseKettenbrücken-gasseBurggasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionKUNSTHALLEwienHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskirchSt.MichaelerAugustinerkitcheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheateTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-PalastRechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngassDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.Margaretenstr.WiednerLinke WienzeileHerrengasseSchreyvogel-gasseNaglergasseTeinfalstr.Löwelstr.BognergasseRenngasseStrauchgasseFärbergasseSchauflergasseHabsburger-gasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.EschenbachgasseNibelungengasseGoethegasseLehárgasseResselgasseTreitlstr.Schauhofer-gasseFrankenberg-gasseMühlgasseMozartgassePaulanergasseSteggasseStiftgasseSchweighofergasseKöstlergasseTheobaldgasseStiegengasseJoanelligasseLuftbadgasseDürergasseWindmühlgassGumpendorfer StrasseStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.-DoblhoffgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.Reichsratsstr.Wallnerstr.SchleifmühlgasseWehrgasseFranzensgasseStadiongasseLöwelstr.KohlmarktBurgringOpernringGetreidemarktMölker BasteiAmHofTieferGrabenSchottengasseDorotheer-gasseKettenbrücken-gasseBurggasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.HeumühlgasseSchikanedergasseFriedrichstrasseBräunerstr.AugustinerStr.NaturhistorischesMuseumKunsthistorischesMuseumVölkerkundeMuseumEphesosMuseumSammlung AlterMusikinstrumenteSpanischeHofreitschuleAlbertinaBurgtorLeopoldMuseumZoomDschungelPalaisAuersbergTheseus-TempelMoyaMUMOKArchitektur-zentrumDritteMannSecessionKUNSTHALLEwienHelden-platzRathaus-platzBallhaus-platzJosefsplatzMichaeler-platzFritz-Grünbaum-Platz.Maria-Theresien-PlatzErzherzog-Johann-PlatzFriedrich-Schmidt-PlatzMinoriten-platzSchmerling-platzMinoriten-platzAlbertinaPlatzR.-Stolz-PlatzSchillerplatzRathaus-ParkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.HOFBURGNEUEBURGMUSEUMS-QUARTIERHERREN-GASSEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZStiftskirchSt.MichaelerAugustinerkircheSt. Joseph-kircheSchottenstiftJustiz-ministeriumMinoriten-kircheVolkstheaterBurgtheaterTheater ander WienStaatsoperStiftskaseKunstForumRathausParlamentJustiz-Palast2311/4 mi00 0.25 kmAlma 8Ambassador 18City Central 9Do & Co 5Domizil 14Graben 4Hollmann Beletage 12Hotel am Opernring 3Hotel am Stephansplatz 6Hotel Europa Wien 16Kaiserin Elisabeth 15Kärtnerhof 11König von Ungarn 13Mailbergerhof 21Mercure Wien Zentrum 7Nossek 1Palais Coburg Residenz 17Pertschy 2Sacher 19Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom 10Zur Wiener Staatsoper 20City Center Lodging
  • 153. 145LodgingBestBetsUUUUUAmHeumarkAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstrassArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Kärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePraterstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenG.-Keller-GasseSalzgriesFleischmarkLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseWienMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheKarls-kirchDominikaner-kircheKapuziner-kircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheSt. PeterSalesianer-klosterGardekirchAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brückeAmHeumarkAmStadtparkParkringKärntner RingSchubertringPrinz-Eugen-StrasseWollzeileWeiskirchnerstrassArgentinierstr.NeulinggasseMarc-Aurel-Str.Wipplingerstr.SeitergasseTegetthoffstr.HimmelpfortgasseJohannesgasseBallgasseKrugerstr.WalfischgasseSchellinggasseMahlerstr.FichtegasseKärntnerstr.Kärntnerstr.Schwarzenberg-str.Bösendorferstr.Dumbastr.Brucknerstr.Mattiellistr.KarlsgasseSchwindgasseWohllebengasseGusshausstrassePraterstr.Liebenberg-gasseWiesingerstr.CobdengasseRosenbursenstr.Rotenturmstr.SpiegelgasseSonnenfelsgasseRiemergasseBäckerstr.Schulerstr.PostgasseKantgassePestalozzi-gasseCanovagasseHegelgasseLothringerstrasseZaunergasseBayerngasseMarrokanergasseÖlzeltgasseVeithgasseJaurésgasseJohannesgasseStrohgasseReisnerStr.SalesianergasseSingerstr.AspernbrückgasseLisztstr.RechteBahngasseNeuerMarktSeilerstätteBrandstätteBauernmarktTuchlaubenG.-Keller-GasseSalzgriesFleischmarkLugeckGrabenDominikanerbasteiFranz-Josefs-KaiBiberstr.StubenringSchallautzerStr.ResselparkGriechengasseWeihburggasseLothringerstrasseRennwegBeatrixgasseVordereZollamtsstrasseTaborstrassePaniglgasseWienMuseumMAK(Museum fürAngewandteKunst)Dom-U.Diözesan-MuseumHoherMarktAltesRathausKünstler-HausUnteresBelvederePalaisSchwarzenbergDr.-Karl-Lueger-PlatzFranziskaner-platzOskar-Kokoschka-PlatzBeethoven-platzPassauerPlatzSchweden-platzJ.-Raab-PlatzSchwarzenberg-platzJuden-platzG.-Coch-PlatzMorzin-platzSchwarzenberg-GartenStadtparkAmModena-ParkKarlsplatzSTEPHANS-PLATZLANDSTR.WIEN-MITTESCHWEDEN-PLATZSTUBENTORSTADTPARKSt. Ursula-KircheMalteseFranziskanerkircheKarls-kirchDominikaner-kircheKapuziner-kircheMaria amGestadeRuprechts-kircheSt. PeterSalesianer-klosterGardekirchAkademie-theaterKammer-spieleKammer-operAspern-brückeSchweden-brückeMarien-brücke4567 89121110141517161821201913U-BahnInformationChurchPost OfficeTheaterLibraryMuseumWalking PathU
  • 154. 146TheBestLodgingUUUUUUUUUUUniversitäts-campusAltesAKH Univ. WienHOFBURGNEUEBURGRechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngasseFDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.WähringerStr.SchottenringSpitalgasseenstrasseAlserstrassePorzellangasseJosefstädterstrasseLerchenfelder Str.WiednerLinke WienzeileHahngasseTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseBörsegasseHessgasseHohenstaufen-gasseHerrengasseTeinfalstr.RenngasseSchauflergasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.GoethegasseLehárgasseMühlgassePaulanergasseWAndreasgasseHermanngasseBandgasseZollergasseSchadekgassNeubaugasseKirchengasseStiftgasseTheobaldgasseWindmühlgasseLinden-gasseGumpendorfer StrasseStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.JosefsgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseSchlössergasseWickenburggasseBerggasseTürkenstr.WasagasseThurngasseSensengasseHöfergasseMariannengasseSkodagasseKupkagasseLederergassFlorianigasseFlorianigassePiaristengassStrozzigassSiebensterngasseMyrthengasseNeubaugasseSchleifmühlgasseStadiongasseWähringer StrasseLöwelstr.BurgringOpernringServitengasseLangeGasseTieferGrabenThavonatgasseSchottengasseStrudlhofgasseSpitalgasseLazarettgasseBurggasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.FriedrichstrasseRossauerLändePramergasseLiechtensteinstr.LerchengasseFeldgasseLaudongasseRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkKarl-Farkas-ParkEsterhazyparkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkSchönbornParkA.Carlsson-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.NEUBAU7.JOSEFSTADT8.ALSERGRUND9.SCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSEROSSAUERLÄNDEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEZIEGLERGASSENEUBAU-GASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZUniversitäts-campusAltesAKH Univ. WienHOFBURGNEUEBURGRechte WienzeileHauptstr.OperngasseFDr.-Karl-LuegerRingDr.-K.-RennerRingMuseumstr.WähringerStr.SchottenringSpitalgasseenstrasseAlserstrassePorzellangasseJosefstädterstrasseLerchenfelder Str.WiednerLinke WienzeileHahngasseTürkenstrasseMaria-TheresienstrasseHörlgasseKolingasseBerggasseBörsegasseHessgasseHohenstaufen-gasseHerrengasseTeinfalstr.RenngasseSchauflergasseOperngasseBabenbergerstr.Elisabethstr.GoethegasseLehárgasseMühlgassePaulanergasseWAndreasgasseHermanngasseBandgasseZollergasseSchadekgassNeubaugasseKirchengasseStiftgasseTheobaldgasseWindmühlgasseLinden-gasseGumpendorfer StrasseStiftgasseBreiteGasseNeustiftgasseVolksgartenstr.Auerstr.Bellariastr.JosefsgasseLandesgerichtsstr.BuchfeldgasseFelderstr.LichtenfelsgasseLenaugasseGrillparzerstr.UniversitätsstrasseReichsratsstr.GarnisongasseSchlössergasseWickenburggasseBerggasseTürkenstr.WasagasseThurngasseSensengasseHöfergasseMariannengasseSkodagasseKupkagasseLederergassFlorianigasseFlorianigassePiaristengassStrozzigassSiebensterngasseMyrthengasseNeubaugasseSchleifmühlgasseStadiongasseWähringer StrasseLöwelstr.BurgringOpernringServitengasseLangeGasseTieferGrabenThavonatgasseSchottengasseStrudlhofgasseSpitalgasseLazarettgasseBurggasseMariahilfer StrasseHamburgerstr.FriedrichstrasseRossauerLändePramergasseLiechtensteinstr.LerchengasseFeldgasseLaudongasseRathaus-ParkSigmund-Freud-parkKarl-Farkas-ParkEsterhazyparkBurg-GartenVolksgartenAlfred-Grünwald-ParkSchönbornParkA.Carlsson-ParkFlorianiparkINNERESTADT1.NEUBAU7.JOSEFSTADT8.ALSERGRUND9.SCHOTTENTORHERREN-GASSEROSSAUERLÄNDEVOLKS-THEATERRATHAUSKETTEN-BRÜCKENGASSEZIEGLERGASSENEUBAU-GASSEMUSEUMS-QUARTIERKARLS-PLATZAltstadt 10Deutschmeister 1Falkensteiner Hotel am Schottenfeld 9Franz 2Hotel de France 4K+K Maria Theresia 11Kugel 12The Levante Parliament 6Rathaus Wein & Design 7Regina 3Schloss Wilhelminenberg 8Zipser 51/4 mi00 0.25 kmU-BahnU834712291101156City Center West Lodging
  • 155. 147LodgingBestBetsA23A23A4A4A4A4A22A22UUUUUUUUUUUUUUDonaukanalDonauNeueDonauAlteDonauNordbahnstrassUngargasseNeulinggasseInnstrassePraterstr.AusstellungsstrasseMarxergasseEngerthstrasseWassergasseWalcherstrasseBaumgasseErdbergstr.Modecenterstr.Erdbergstr.HauptalleeRotundenalleeMeierstrasseKaiseralleeEngerthstrasseVorgartenstrasseHandelskaiHandelskaiSüdportalstrasseEngerthstrasseHaussteinstr.DonizettiwegWagramerstrasseArbeiterstrandbadstr.DonauturmstrasseErdbergerLändeLandstrasserHauptstr.SchüttelstrasseDampfschiffstr.SchweizerGartenDonauparkPraterZWISCHE-BRÜCKENLANDSTRASSE3.PRATER-STERNNESTROYPLATZROCHUSGASSEKARDINAL-NAGL-PLATZVORGARTENSTRASSEDONAUINSELKAISERMÜHLEN-VICALTE DONAUSCHLACHTHAUS-GASSEERDBERGGASOMETERMESSE PRATERKRIEAUSTADIONDonauinselVIC (ViennaInternational Centre)/UNO CityErnst-HappelStadionDonaukanalDonauNeueDonauAlteDonauNordbahnstrassUngargasseNeulinggasseInnstrassePraterstr.AusstellungsstrasseMarxergasseEngerthstrasseWassergasseWalcherstrasseBaumgasseErdbergstr.Modecenterstr.Erdbergstr.HauptalleeRotundenalleeMeierstrasseKaiseralleeEngerthstrasseVorgartenstrasseHandelskaiHandelskaiSüdportalstrasseEngerthstrasseHaussteinstr.DonizettiwegWagramerstrasseArbeiterstrandbadstr.DonauturmstrasseErdbergerLändeLandstrasserHauptstr.SchüttelstrasseDampfschiffstr.SchweizerGartenDonauparkPraterZWISCHE-BRÜCKENLANDSTRASSE3.PRATER-STERNNESTROYPLATZROCHUSGASSEKARDINAL-NAGL-PLATZVORGARTENSTRASSEDONAUINSELKAISERMÜHLEN-VICALTE DONAUSCHLACHTHAUS-GASSEERDBERGGASOMETERMESSE PRATERKRIEAUSTADIONDonauinselVIC (ViennaInternational Centre)/UNO CityVIC (ViennaInternational Centre)/UNO CityErnst-HappelStadionArcotel Kaiserwasser 2Hilton Vienna Danube 5Kuchlmasterei 4Lassalle 3Roomz 6Strand Hotel Alte Donau 1U-BahnU6534211/2 mi00 0.5 kmDanube Lodging
  • 156. 148TheBestLodgingpatrician house oozes style, withlavish wallpapers, velvets, and free-standing baths. Kirchengasse 41.y 01 522 6666. www.altstadt.at. 42units. Doubles €139–€169 w/break-fast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2/3(Volkstheater). Map p 146.★ Ambassador CITY CENTERAdd your name to the visitors’ bookalongside such luminaries as com-poser Franz Lehár, actress MarleneDietrich, and writer Mark Twain atthis upscale hotel. Kärtnerstrasse22/Neuer Markt 5. y 01 961 610.www.ambassador.at. 86 units. Dou-bles €322–€584. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Mapp 144.★ = Arcotel KaiserwasserDANUBE  A large, modern hotelnext to ‘UNO City,’ with its owngardens, wellness center, andbeach area, all just a 10-minuteU-Bahn ride from the city center.Wagramerstrasse 8. y 01 22424-0. www.arcotelhotels.com. 282units. Doubles €70–€320. AE, DC,MC, V. U-Bahn 1 (Kaisermühlen-VIC). Map p 147.★★ Alma CITY CENTER  A smartcontemporary boutique hotel in atranquil alley just off Schweden-platz. Hafnersteig 7. y 01 533 2961. www.hotel-alma.com. 26 units.Doubles €134–€184 w/breakfast.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwe-denplatz). Map p 144.★★★ Altstadt SPITTELBERGExotic and decadent yet homely,this boutique hotel in a convertedVienna Lodging A to ZThe stylish Altstadt.Arcotel Kaiserwasser.
  • 157. 149ViennaLodgingAtoZoffers friendly service, comfortablestylish rooms, and an impressivecollection of contemporary Austrianart. Mariahilferstrasse 15. y 01 5875415. www.das-tyrol.at. 30 units.Doubles €149–€229 w/breakfast.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Museums-Quartier). Map p 143.★ Deutschmeister SERVITENJust a few minutes’ walk from theRingstrasse, this friendly hotel isgood value, with clean, simplerooms and a superb buffet break-fast. Grünentorgasse 30. y 01 3103404. www.city-hotels.at. 52 units.Doubles €89–€220 w/breakfast. AE,DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 4 (RossauerLände). Map p 146.★★★ Do & Co CITY CENTERSophisticated suede walls, teakfloors, and deep sofas are the hall-marks of this glossy, bulbous hoteland rooftop restaurant in the iconicHaas Haus, with unparalleled viewsover Stephansplatz and the cathe-dral. Stephansplatz 12. y 01 24188.www.doco.com. 43 units. Doubles€225–€410. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 140.★★ Domizil CITY CENTER  Thischarming hotel has light, spaciousrooms and a homely atmosphere. It★★ =Bristol RINGSTRASSEThe exuberant marble lobby of thislandmark hotel belies the tastefulfin-de-siècle charm of its rooms.For the ultimate indulgence, reservethe Prince of Wales suite. KärntnerRing 1. y 01 515 160. www.luxurycollection.com/bristol. 140 units.Doubles €279–€529. AE, DC, MC, V.Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Map p 143.★★ City Central KARMELITER  Aclassic Viennese hotel with moderncomforts and friendly service. Apart-ments are also available for longerstays. Taborstrasse 8. y 01 21105-0. 58 units. Doubles €109–€154.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwe-denplatz). Map p 144.★★★ Das Triest MARIAHILF  For-merly used as a stable on theVienna–Trieste stagecoach route inthe 17th century, this boutiquehotel now has chic modern interiorsdesigned by Sir Terence Conran,and attracts an arty clientele. Wied-ner Hauptstrasse 12. y 01 589 180.www.dastriest.at. 72 units. Doubles€220–€292 w/breakfast. AE, DC,MC, V. Tram 62/65 (Paulanergasse).Map p 143.★★ Das Tyrol MQ  This small lux-ury hotel near the MuseumsQuartierBoutique Hotel Das Triest.
  • 158. 150TheBestLodgingy 01 310 4040-0. www.hotelpensionfranz.at. 24 units. Doubles€79–€95 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor). Map p 146.★★ Graben CITY CENTER  Smartand central, there’s no better locationif you want to hit the main shoppingstreets. Ask for a superior doubleroom. Dorotheergasse 3. y 01 51215310. www.kremslehnerhotels.at. 52units. Doubles €170–€250 w/break-fast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 144.★★ Hilton Vienna DanubeDANUBE  One of three Hiltons inthe city, this hotel claims some ofthe most spacious guestrooms inVienna. Ask for a room with a Dan-ube view. Handelskai 269. y 0172777. www.hilton.at/wiendanube.367 units. Doubles €75–€399. AE,DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Ernst HappelStadion). Map p 147.★★★ Hollmann Beletage CITYCENTER  Spacious rooms, designerfurniture, and plenty of home com-forts make this inner-city sanctuary awelcoming bolt hole. Köllnerhofgasse6. y 01 961 1960. www.hollman-beletage.at. 16 units. Doubles €140–€250 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Mapp 144.is ideally placed for shopping andsightseeing in the city center. Schul-erstrasse 14. y 01 513 3199-0.www.hoteldomizil.at. 40 units. Dou-bles €135–€185 w/breakfast. AE,DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephans-platz). Map p 144.★★ Drei Kronen NASCHMARKTThe “Three Crowns” (of Austria, Hun-gary, and Bohemia) are carved on thefacade of this simple but comfortablehotel. Ask for a room overlooking theNaschmarkt. Schliefmühlgasse 25.y 01 587 3289. www.hotel3kronen.at. 41 units. Doubles €65–€149 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 143.★★ Falkensteiner Hotel amSchottenfeld NEUBAU  Dramaticcolored-lighting effects distinguishthis trendy, modern hotel. It attractsa young and savvy clientele. Schot-tenfeldgasse 74. y 01 526 5181.www.schottenfeld.falkensteiner.com. 144 units. Doubles €105–€230.AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 48 (Ziegler-gasse/Burggasse). Map p 146.★★ Franz SCHOTTENRING  Fur-nished in old-Viennese baroque style,this comfortable guesthouse is a pop-ular budget choice. Its intercon-nected rooms are well suited tofamily groups. Währingerstrasse 12.Living room, Hollmann Beletage.
  • 159. 151ViennaLodgingAtoZDoubles €359–€789. AE, DC, MC, V.Tram 1/2/71/D (Schwarzenbergplatz).Map p 143.★★ Kaiserin Elisabeth CITYCENTER  Formerly frequented byMozart, Wagner and Liszt, this hoteloffers traditional Viennese elegancewith sumptuous (if slightly over-the-top) furnishings. Weihburggasse 3.y 01 515 26. www.kaiserinelisabeth.at. 63 units. Doubles €216–€245 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 144.★★ K+K Maria Theresia SPIT-TELBERG  Affordable modern lux-ury, just a stone’s-throw from theMuseumsQuartier. Kirchberggasse6. y 01 521 23. www.kkhotels.com.123 units. Doubles €270–€295 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2/3(Volkstheater). Map p 146.★★ Kärtnerhof CITY CENTERHidden down a tiny lane, this quiet,friendly hotel has traditional furnish-ings and a roof terrace. It’s a popu-lar choice with budget-consciousvisitors. Grasshofgasse 4. y 01 5121923. www.kartnerhof.com. 44units. Doubles €110–€179 w/break-fast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/4(Schwedenplatz). Map p 144.★★★ König von Ungarn CITYCENTER  Step inside and take a tripback in time to the days when thisgrand hotel served as a guesthousefor cathedral dignitaries, and Mozartlived next door. Schulerstrasse 10.y 01 515 84-0. www.kvu.at. 44units. Doubles €215 w/breakfast.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stepha-nsplatz). Map p 144.★★ Kuchlmasterei PRATERSmall, stylish, and a little different,Kuchlmasterei began life as a res-taurant before adding several opu-lent suites. Treat yourself to thespecial bath menu. Obere Weissger-berstrasse 6. y 01 712 9000. www.kuchlmasterei.at. 7 units. AE, DC,★★ Hotel am Opernring CITYCENTER  Located opposite the cele-brated State Opera at the heart ofthe city, this hotel has stylish con-temporary rooms and serves a deli-cious champagne breakfast buffet.Opernring 11. y 01 587 55 18.www.opernring.at. 47 units. Doubles€149–€325 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC,V. Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Map p 144.★★ =Hotel am Stephans-platz CITY CENTER  The centrallocation of this hotel (right next tothe cathedral) is unbeatable. Runalong eco-friendly lines (sustainablewood, organic meals, recycling), itsorganic breakfasts are delicious.Stephansplatz 9. y 01 534 05-0.www.hotelamstephansplatz.at. 56units. Doubles €180–€280 w/break-fast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 144.★★ Hotel de France SCHOT-TENRING  This charming, character-ful hotel on the Ringstrasse boastsfriendly, traditional Viennese serviceand a cozy atmosphere. Schot-tenring 3. y 01 313 68-0. www.hoteldefrance.at. 194 units. Doubles€115–€305. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn2/4 (Schottenring). Map p 146.★★ Hotel Europa Wien CITYCENTER  Ideally located on apedestrian street in the city center,this business-class hotel combinesmodern furnishings with Austriancharm. Kärtnerstrasse 18. y 0151594. www.austria-trend.at/hotel-europa-wien. 160 units. Doubles€450–€650 w/breakfast .AE, DC,MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).Map p 144.★★★ =Imperial RINGSTRASSEThis sumptuous hotel conjures upthe glory days of the Habsburgempire with its palatial rooms. It’sthe pick of the bunch for visitingheads of state. Kärtner Ring 16.y 01 501 10-0. www.luxurycollection.com/imperial. 138 units.
  • 160. 152TheBestLodgingunits. Doubles €110–€190 w/break-fast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3(Stephansplatz). Map p 144.★ Mercure Wien Zentrum CITYCENTER  The most central of sev-eral Mercure chain hotels, wellplaced for exploring the lively “Ber-muda Triangle” nightlife zone.Accommodation is predictably func-tional, but good value. Fleischmarkt1a. y 01 534 60-0. www.mercure.com. 154 units. Doubles €99–€248.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwe-denplatz). Map p 144.★★ =Nossek CITY CENTER Sample true Viennese hospitality inan excellent central location at thisfriendly little guesthouse, furnishedin baroque style. Graben 17. y 01533 7041. www.pension-nossek.at.31 units. Doubles €115–€150 w/breakfast. No credit cards. U-Bahn1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 144.★★★ Palais Coburg ResidenzCITY CENTER  The ultimate in tradi-tional luxury, this regal palace has atop-notch gourmet restaurant, avast wine cellar, and a rooftop pool.Coburgbastei 4. y 01 518 18-0.www.palais-coburg.com. 35 units.Doubles €670–€2,700. AE, DC, MC,V. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 144.★★ Pertschy CITY CENTER  Stayin this guesthouse in a beautifulbaroque palace; it has pretty, well-proportioned rooms, a central loca-tion, and frequent special offers(check the website for details).Habsburgergasse 5. y 01 534 49-0.www.pertschy.com. 55 units. Dou-bles €119–€207 w/breakfast. AE,DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephans-platz). Map p 144.★★★ Rathaus Wein & DesignJOSEFSTADT  This bijou hotel fea-tures a different Austrian vintner inthe design (and mini-bar) of eachroom, together with frequent wine-tasting evenings for its guests. LangeMC, V. Suite €247. Tram N/O (Hin-tere Zollamtsstrasse). Map p 147.★★ Kugel SPITTELBERG  The per-fect choice for an affordable roman-tic break in the picturesqueSpittelberg area, not far from theMuseumsQuartier. Ask for a roomwith a four-poster bed. Siebenstern-gasse 43. y 01 523 3355. www.hotelkugel.at. 30 units. Doubles €55–€150 w/breakfast. No credit cards.Tram 49 (Neubaugasse). Map p 146.★★ =Lassalle DANUBE  Nearthe Donauinsel (Danube Island)beaches and the Prater funfair, thishotel is superb for families, with agames room, toddlers’ playroom,and babysitters available uponrequest. Engerthstrasse 173–175.y 01 213 15-0. www.austria-trend.at/law. 140 units. Doubles €69–€280w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1(Vorgartenstrasse). Map p 147.★★★ Le Méridien RINGSTRASSERelax in the sophisticated spa, thenjoin the smart set for cocktails in theglamorous Shambala Bar. Bedroomsare sleekly minimalist. Opernring 13–15. y 01 588 900. www.lemeridienvienna.com. 294 units. Doubles€180–€465. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram1/2/D (Oper). Map p 143.★★★ The Levante ParliamentRINGSTRASSE  A striking turn-of-the-century designer hotel, justbehind the Austrian Parliamentbuilding, with an ultra-modern inte-rior of light natural stone, darkwood, glass, and chrome. Auer-spergstrasse 9. y 01 228 28-0.www.thelevante.com. 70 units. Dou-bles €180–€390. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus). Map p 146.★★ Mailbergerhof CITY CENTERA gorgeous hotel in a small baroquepalace with stables and its own cha-pel, near the cathedral and theopera house. Annagasse 7. y 01512 0641. www.mailbergerhof.at. 40
  • 161. 153ViennaLodgingAtoZ152 units. Doubles €69–€159. AE,DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Gasometer).Map p 147.★★★ Sacher RINGSTRASSE  Vien-na’s most famous hotel, founded in1876, Sacher retains its palatial19th-century style, reveling in opu-lent, romantic rooms and rococofurniture. Its famous Sachertorte ison the must-eat list of every tourist.Philharmonikerstrasse 4. y 01 514560. www.sacher.com. 152 units.Doubles €310–€828. AE, DC, MC, V.Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Map p 144.★★★ Schloss Wilhelminen-berg OTTAKRING  This former cas-tle surrounded by parkland on thewestern outskirts is now a contem-porary-style hotel with sensationalcity vistas. Savoyenstrasse 2. y 01485 03. www.austria-trend.at/wiw.87 units. Doubles €155–€260. AE,DC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Ottakring) then Bus46B/146B (Schloss Wilhelminenberg).Map p 146.★★★ Sofitel Vienna Stephans-dom KARMELITER  A sleek, chichotel, designed by French architectJean Nouvel in a minimalist paletteof blacks, grays, and whites. With anexotic spa and an acclaimed rooftoprestaurant (p 119), this is where thebeautiful people of Vienna hang out.Gasse 13. y 01 400 1122. www.hotel-rathaus-wien.at. 40 units. Dou-bles €148–€198. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). Map p 146.★ Regina SCHOTTENRINGLocated in a grand city palace, themain appeal of this traditional, fam-ily-run hotel is its rather faded ele-gance. Ask for a room overlookingthe Votivkirche. Währingerstrasse 1.y 01 404 46-0. www.kremslehnerhotels.at. 148 units. Doubles €157–€500 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor). Map p 146.★★ The Ring RINGSTRASSE  Tra-dition meets modernity at this five-star hotel near the opera house.Behind an impressive 19th-centuryfacade, the stylish but comfortablerooms, snazzy suites, and fitnessspa ooze casual luxury. Kärtner Ring8. y 01 221 22-0. www.theringhotel.at. 68 units. Doubles €199–€470. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 1/2/D(Oper). Map p 143.★★ =Roomz SIMMERING  A“budget design hotel” offeringsmart, minimalist rooms to design-savvy visitors who can’t afford city-center prices. An added bonus—it’sright by the funky Gasometer devel-opment. Paragonstrasse 1. y 01743 1777. www.roomz-vienna.com.Terrace, Rathaus Wein & Design.
  • 162. 154TheBestLodging★★ =Strand Hotel AlteDonau DANUBE  A city “beach”hotel, with cheerful rooms, alfrescobreakfasts in summer, bikes for hire,and its very own beach completewith rowing boats. Wagramerstrasse51. y 01 204 4040. www.strandhotel-alte-donau.at. 29 units. Dou-bles €100–€150 w/breakfast. MC, V.U-Bahn 1 (Alte Donau). Map p 147.★ Zipser JOSEFSTADT  Don’t beput off by the plain facade of thiscontemporary hotel. It’s a friendlyplace with attractive, generouslysized bedrooms—some have tran-quil, tree-shaded balconies. LangeGasse 49. y 01 404 54-0. www.zipser.at. 55 units. Doubles €99–€205 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus). Map p 146.★ Zur Wiener Staatsoper RING-STRASSE  In a prime location nearthe opera house, this welcoming,family-run hotel oozes Viennesecharm. Bedrooms have high ceil-ings, crystal chandeliers, and floralwallpapers. Krugerstrasse 11.y 01 513 1274. www.zurwienerstaatsoper.at. 22 units. Doubles€118–€150 w/breakfast. AE, DC,MC, V. Tram 1/2/D (Oper). Mapp 144.Praterstrasse 1. y 01 906 16 3100.www.sofitel.com. 182 units. Doubles€285–€555. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Map p 144.★★★ =Starlight SuitenHotel am Heumarkt STADT-PARK  Light, airy apartments andcheerful service are the hallmarks ofthis central hotel. Ideal for families.Am Heumarkt 15. y 01 710 7808.www.starlighthotels.com. 50 units.Doubles €195–€225 w/breakfast.AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark).Map p 143.Smart apartment at the Starlight SuitenHotel am Heumarkt.Strand Hotel Alte Donau.
  • 163. TheSavvy Traveler
  • 164. 156TheSavvyTravelerNew Year’s Eve festivities. When-ever you choose to visit, there’salways a superb choice of theaterand music, and over 80 museums toprovide entertainment for all thefamily, whatever the weather.ClimateVienna’s mild climate means thatyou can enjoy visiting the city year-round. As a general rule, Vienna hascold winters, hot summers, andtemperatures are mild during springand fall. May marks the start ofbalmy days, and alfresco dining(until Sept). It is hottest betweenJune and August with temperaturesranging from 64° to 70° F (18–22° C).This is also the wettest time of year,but the rain helps to keep the citycool and pleasant. September is oneof the best months for sightseeing,with crisp, sunny days, comfortabletemperatures, and fewer visitorsthan during high summer. October,too, can be very mild and pleasant,when the leaves in the city parksand vineyards start to change color.The notorious Föhn wind can blowat any time of year. This warm, dryAlpine wind often brings crystal-clear days (beautiful light for photo-graphs), but it is also blamed forheadaches and bad moods. Novem-ber heralds the first chills of winter.January and February are the cold-est months when snow is frequent,although it rarely settles for long inthe city center. It can be surprisinglycold during this time, so rememberto bring plenty of warm clothes.Festivals & Special EventsFor further information on what’son, check out the ‘Events’ section ofwww.vienna.info and the websitewww.whatsonwhen.com.Government Tourist OfficesIn the U.S.: 120 West 45th Street,9th floor, New York, NY 10036 (y 1212 944 6880); 6520 Platt Avenue,# 561 West Hills, California, CA91307-3218 (y 1 818 999 4030). InCanada: 2 Bloor Street West, # 400Toronto, ON, M4W 3E2 (y 1 416967 4867). In the U.K. & Ireland:9–11 Richmond Buildings, London,W1D 3HF (y 020 7440 3830 or0845 101 1818). In Australia: 1stfloor, 36 Carrington Street, SydneyNSW 2000 (y 02 9299 3621).Wherever you live, the best placefor information is the official websiteof Vienna Tourism at www.vienna.info.The Best Times to GoThe best time to visit is from May toOctober. May, when the lilac andchestnut trees are in bloom, marksthe start of beer-garden season.June to August, when the days arelong and hot, is ideal for lazy after-noons in Vienna’s extensive parks;for swimming and sunbathing at thecity’s beaches; and for river tripsand watersports on the Danube.However, Vienna can get verycrowded at the height of summer,especially during school vacations.September marks the start of thetheater season as all the major ven-ues launch their new programs and,in October, the new wines from theWienerwald vineyards are toasted inthe city bars and country Heurigen.Another popular time is Christmas,when snow has often fallen, festivedecorations and lights illuminate thecity, and the streets are filled withstalls selling roasted chestnuts andGlühwein (mulled wine). Many visitorscome to shop at the Christmas mar-kets or to enjoy the city’s celebratedBefore You Go156TheSavvyTravelerPrevious page: Vienna airlines ride, Wiener Prater.
  • 165. 157BeforeYouGoopera and orchestral music in someof the city’s most celebrated ven-ues, and a Jazz Fest (first twoweeks in July) at the State OperaHouse and Volkstheater.FALL Fall is the cultural start of theyear, when the major theaters andopera houses reopen for the seasonand launch their new programs. TheSpanish Riding School starts toperform again (Sept–June), the trot-ting races begin in the Krieau at thePrater (until June), and the ViennaBoys’ Choir sings Mass once moreon Sundays (mid-Sept to June) aftertheir summer break. On the LangeNacht der Museen (first Sat inOct), all the museums in the cityopen from 6pm to 1am, and oneticket allows entry to all of them. Atthe end of the month, the NationalHoliday (26th Oct) celebrates thewithdrawal of Allied troops in 1955,following the passing of the Neutral-ity Act. October also sees the startof Wien Modern (Oct–end Nov), amodern music festival at the Konzer-thaus, and the Viennale, Austria’sleading film festival. In November,the Schubertiade concert seriestakes place at the Musikverein, andChristkindlmärkte, the city’smuch-loved Christmas marketsopen (mid-Nov to end Dec).WINTER Christmas markets are infull swing right across the city forthe month of December, at Freyung,Karlsplatz, Spittelberg, Schönbrunn,and Heiligenkreuzerhof. On 6thSPRING The Spring Marathon takesplace in April and participants maketheir way from the Schönbrunn Pal-ace to the Rathaus. The Frühlings-fest (Spring Festival) of classicalmusic runs from April to mid-May,alternating each year between theMusikverein and the Konzerthaus.The Wiener Festwochen (ViennaFestival) follows in May. This is Vien-na’s main arts festival of opera, the-ater, and performing arts (frommid-May to mid-June). Spring alsomarks the start of the SchönbrunnPalace concert season (Mar–Oct),the Prater funfair (Apr–Oct), andperformances of the Spanish Rid-ing School (until June).SUMMER Highlights of this gloriousseason of balls and open-air enter-tainment include the Fête Imperialsummer ball at the Spanish RidingSchool in July; the Mozart Operaseries, performed nightly in theSchönbrunn Park until mid-August;and the Donauinselfest (last week-end in June), a three-day pop festi-val on Danube Island. The freeMusikfilm Festival at the Rathaus(mid-July to mid-Sept) is one of sev-eral open-air cinema venuesthroughout the city. The Vinovawine fair takes place in the Prater(second week in June), and Vienna’sgay community celebrates late Junewith the frivolous RegenbogenParade (Rainbow Parade). On themusic front, there’s the Klangbo-gen music festival (July–Aug) ofVIENNA’S AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURE & MONTHLY RAINFALLJAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUNETemp (°F) 26 35 53 55 59 64Temp (°C) -3 2 12 13 15 18Rainfall (mm) 38 41 40 50 60 72JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DECTemp (°F) 68 70 62 53 42 35Temp (°C) 20 22 17 12 6 2Rainfall (mm) 60 62 42 40 50 42
  • 166. 158TheSavvyTraveler • www.wien.at  The city’smunicipal online information ser-vice, run by local government,contains maps and all sorts ofuseful information, with sectionson business, culture, health, lei-sure, history, and politics. • www.aboutvienna.org  A fun,English-language website devotedto the city’s sightseeing, culture,and cuisine. • www.austria.info  The Aus-trian National Tourist Board’swebsite contains everything youneed to know for holidaying inAustria, plus it has a facility forbooking accommodation. • www.austriatoday.at Vien-na’s sole English-language news-paper is only available online. • www.niederoesterreich.at Information on Niederösterreich(Lower Austria), the region sur-rounding Vienna. • www.viennaairport.com Use-ful for flight planning, with detailsof airport services and transportto and from the city center. • www.oebb.at Timetables,fares, and online booking for thenational rail system, the Öster-reichische Bundesbahnen (ÖBB). • www.wienerlinien.at Sched-ules and routes for the city’s pub-lic transport network, includingbus, tram, U-Bahn and night-bussystems, plus details of all thevarious ticket types on offer. • www.ddsg-blue-danube.at Details of sightseeing cruises andspecial day-trips on the water-ways of the Danube.Cellphones (Mobiles)Austria is on the GSM 1800 (GlobalSystem for Mobiles) wireless net-work, which means that worldphones are the only U.S. phonesthat can be used in Vienna. InDecember, St. Nicholas and hiswicked companion Krampus maketheir annual appearance in variousSt. Nicholas festivities andparades. Christmas is marked byMidnight Mass (arrive early to geta seat in the Stephansdom). Christ-mas Day and Stefanitag (BoxingDay) are public holidays. NewYear’s Eve is traditionally cele-brated with a performance of DieFledermaus at the Opera Houseand Volksoper (shown on largescreens in Stephansplatz);Beethoven’s 9th Symphony isperformed at the Konzerthaus; andthe glittering Kaiserball takes placeat the Hofburg. The nation’s largestSilvester (New Year’s Eve) partytakes place in the city center, withstreet entertainment, revelry, anddazzling fireworks. The famous NewYear’s Day concert is performedby the Vienna Philharmonic at theMusikverein (requests for tickets forthe following year’s concert mustarrive in writing at the Musikvereinon 2nd Jan, no sooner, no later).Then there’s ice-skating for every-one (mid-Jan to Feb) in front of thecity hall at Vienna Ice Dream, fol-lowed by the Fasching carnival sea-son (6th Jan–Ash Wed). Faschingfestivities include the Opera Ball(last Thurs before Shrove Tues), oneof the grandest society events ofthe year, climaxing at the lavishHeringschmaus (Ash Wed) buffet.The Haydn Tage concert series(mid-Feb to first week Mar) takesplace at the Konzerthaus.Useful Websites • www.vienna.info  The officialwebsite for the Vienna TouristBoard contains lots of useful infor-mation on where to stay (includinga hotel booking facility), what to do(museums, galleries, sights), whereto go (restaurants, theaters, night-life), and much more.
  • 167. 159GettingThereCar RentalsDon’t bother! Driving in Vienna is anightmare. You’re much bettersticking to the city’s highly efficientpublic transport system. Vienna issurprisingly compact and many ofthe main sights are all within easywalking distance. If you really wantto rent a vehicle, it is usuallycheaper to reserve a car beforeleaving home, ready for collection atthe airport. Try Avis (y 01 700732700; www.avis.at); Budget(y 01 7007 32711; www.budget.at); Europcar (y 0866 16 10;www.europcar.at); Hertz (y 017007 32661; www.hertz.at); or Sixt(y 01 7007 36517; www.sixt.at).Europe, check with your local net-work provider before leaving home,and confirm that your phone isunlocked (and therefore able toreceive international calls). GSMphones work with a removable plas-tic SIM card, encoded with yourphone number and account informa-tion. You can buy a cheap pay-as-you-go cellphone at any phone storein Austria for about €40–€75, whichusually includes some prepaid call-ing time. The major networks—A-1,Drei, One, and T-Mobile—all sell SIMcards with €10 worth of calls for€40. You can top this up usingphone cards purchased from super-markets and Trafik (a chain oftobacconists) for €20 or €40. Localcellphone numbers start with 0650,0660, 0664, 0676, and 0699.By PlaneMost visitors fly into Vienna Interna-tional Airport (y 01 7007-0; www.viennaairport.com) at Schwechat,20km (12 miles) southeast of thecity center, although some Euro-pean charter flights make use of thecheaper Airport Letisko Bratislava(y +421 2 4857 3353; www.airportbratislava.sk), just 60km (37 miles)east of Vienna. At Vienna International Airport,the Vienna Tourist Service desk atBaggage Reclaim (y 01 700732875; daily 6am–11pm) can pro-vide general maps and pamphletsand help you find a hotel room ifyou haven’t reserved ahead. Toreach the city center, follow signs tothe S-Bahn suburban train station(y 05 1717; www.oebb.at; 4:34am–11:49pm) for cheap, easy connec-tions. Trains run every 30 minutes. Ittakes 24 minutes on the S7 to reachWien Mitte central station and costs€3.60. The City Airport Train (CAT;y 01 252 50; www.cityairporttrain.com; 6:05am–11:25pm; €10) takes16 minutes, but it is the moreexpensive option. Airport buses(y 01 711-01; 1:20am–0:20am; €6)shuttle every 30 minutes to Schwe-denplatz in the city center, wherethere are U-Bahn connections. Jour-ney time is usually about 20 min-utes, depending on traffic. Expect topay around €35 for a taxi-ride tothe city center. When traveling toand from the airport, be sure torequest airport rates in advance. On arrival at Airport LetiskoBratislava, a shuttle bus operates 19times a day to Vienna’s SüdtirolerPlatz. It takes roughly 90 minutesand costs €7.70. Alternatively,catch bus no. 61 (every 10–20 min;5am–11pm) to the main station,then take a direct train to Vienna’sSüdbahnhof (almost hourly,6:50am–11:50pm). From April toOctober you can arrive by hydrofoilalong the Danube from Bratislava inGetting There
  • 168. 160TheSavvyTravelerBahnhofCity Wien West; trains fromthe south and east at the Südbahn-hof and Wien Meidling; and trainsfrom the north at Franz-Josefs-Bahn-hof. Facilities at each include a travelagency, snack-bars, newsagents, andshops. If you’re arriving by Eurocitytrain, book in advance (you have topay a supplement if you book within72 hours of departure). Reserve abed if you’re traveling overnight.Many of the night trains have no buf-fet service, so bring some drinks andsnacks with you.By BusInternational coach connections canbe long and uncomfortable so Idon’t really recommend them.There is no central bus station, soyour arrival destination will vary,depending which company you’retraveling with. Wien Mitte coach sta-tion handles most of the interna-tional coach services as well asdomestic routes from eastern Aus-tria. Domestic coach routes fromsouthern and southwestern Austriaterminate at the Südbahnhof coachstation. Eurolines (y 01 798 2900;www.eurolines.at) offer coach ser-vices throughout Europe, arriving atthe bus station at the U3 U-Bahnstation of Erdberg, and occasionallyat Südbahnhof.75 minutes (y 01 588 80; www.ddsg-blue-danube.at; five sailingsdaily, from €19). A taxi-ride fromBratislava airport to Vienna city cen-ter takes around 45 minutes, andcosts approximately €200 to €300.By CarAustria has an excellent network ofmotorways but you need an Auto-bahnvignette (toll-sticker) in orderto drive on them. These are avail-able at gas stations, tobacconistsand border-crossing points, andmust be attached to the inside ofyour windscreen. A 10-day vignettecosts €7.90. The main access routefrom the north is on the A22 Dan-ube motorway (Donauuferauto-bahn); from the west on the A1western motorway (Westautobahn);the A2 and A23 southern motor-ways (Südautobahn); and the A4eastern motorway (Ostautobahn)—the route from Schwechat Interna-tional Airport. The motorwaysconverge on the Gürtel (outer ring-road). From here, follow signs toZentrum (city center).By TrainVienna has several mainline railwaystations, three of which have inter-national connections. As a generalrule, trains from the west (and somefrom Budapest) arrive at theGetting AroundOn FootVienna is easy to explore on foot.Most of the major attractions liewithin the Ringstrasse, and theTourist Office has an excellent freemap to help you. Don’t worry if youget lost—the graceful tower of theStephansdom is never far fromsight and always useful fororientation.Public Transport TicketSystemVienna’s comprehensive publictransport system is clean, fast, andvery efficient. It comprises theU-Bahn (underground trains), S-Bahn(regional trains), trams, and busesand it’s easy to use. Flat-fare ticketsare valid for all modes of transport,and can be purchased at tobacco-nists and in U-Bahn stations from
  • 169. 161FastFactsplatform indicates the destination ofthe next train and the waiting timeuntil its arrival. The U-Bahn runsdaily from about 5am until just aftermidnight, with trains at approxi-mately 5-minute intervals (more fre-quent at rush hour); every seven toeight minutes after 8:30pm. Atweekends they run 24 hours a day.By Tram or BusTrams are my favorite mode oftransport. I especially enjoy touringthe Ringstrasse by tram (see p 58)to admire the fine architecture ofthe city center. As with buses, tramsare identified by numbers and/or let-ters. Bus routes 1A, 2A, and 3A arecity-center mini-hoppers. Mostroutes operate from 5am until mid-night, when a useful network ofnight buses (marked with a blue “N”)operates until 5am. Details of indi-vidual routes can be found at www.wienerlinien.at.By TaxiThere are taxi-ranks at many busyjunctions, and outside most largehotels. You can hail a taxi in thestreet if its yellow sign is lit up, orbook one by phone (y 01 601 60;y 01 401 00; y 01 313 00).By CarVienna’s maze of narrow one-waystreets, its expensive, restricted park-ing, and ubiquitous trams (whichalways take priority over other traffic)make driving in the city center decid-edly stressful and best avoided. If youdo drive anywhere in Austria, remem-ber to keep to the right-hand side.automatic machines (with instruc-tions in English) and occasionallystaffed ticket offices. Before board-ing a train, you must put your ticketin the blue validating machine (Ent-werter) found at the entrances tothe U-Bahn stations. On buses andtrams you must immediately stampyour ticket upon boarding. Travelingwithout a valid ticket can result in aheavy fine. Tickets and passesinclude an Einzelfahrschein (SingleTicket, €1.80/€2.20 if purchased ontrams and buses, correct changerequired); a Streifenkarte (StripCard, €7.80, for four journeys); a24-Stunden Wien-Karte (24 hoursunlimited travel, €5.70); a 72-Stun-den Wien-Karte (72 hours unlimitedtravel, €13.60); an 8-Tage-Karte(valid for 8 days—not necessarilyconsecutive ones— €28.80) and aWochenkarte (valid Mon–Sun only,€14). The Vienna Card (€18.50) alsoprovides 72 hours of unlimitedtravel plus other discounts (seePasses, p 165). Kids under six travelfree; kids under 15 travel free onSundays and during the Vienneseschool holidays.By U-BahnThe U-Bahn (underground train) isthe fastest way of getting abouttown, although admittedly it’s notas scenic as the trams. There arefive color-coded routes (U1—red,U2—purple, U3—orange, U4—green, U6—brown). Transport mapsare posted in all stations; free mapsare available from Wiener Linien(y 01 790 9100; www.wienerlinien.at); and an electronic board on theAPARTMENT RENTALS For long-termaccommodation (including short-term lets), look at Bazar magazine,or online at www.bazar.at, for thelatest listings of apartments orrooms to rent. The previous chapter(The Best Lodging) contains detailsof a couple of apartment-hotels.Fast Facts
  • 170. 162TheSavvyTravelerCard (€2 per day plus a smalldeposit) from Royal Tours, Herren-gasse 1–3 (daily 8–11:30am and1–6pm) or Pedal Power, Ausstel-lungsstrasse 3 (daily 9am–5pm) andthen pay the accrued fees when youreturn the card.BUSINESS HOURS Most stores openMonday through Friday 9am to 6pmand close at 5pm on Saturdays.Some larger stores open late onThursdays until 9pm. Supermarketsopen Monday through Friday 8amto 6pm or 7pm; until 5pm Saturday.General office hours are Mondaythrough Friday 8am to 3:30pm (orsometimes 4pm or 5pm).CLIMATE See “The Best Times to Go”and “Climate”, p 156.CONCERTS See “How to Get Tickets”,p 138.CONSULATES & EMBASSIES AmericanEmbassy, Boltzmanngasse 16(y 01 313 39-0; www.usembassy.at). Canadian Embassy, Laurenzer-berg 2 (y 01 531 38 3000; www.kanada.at). British Embassy, Jaures-gasse 12 (y 01 716 130; www.britishembassy.at). Irish Embassy,Rotenturmstrasse 16–18 (y 01 7154246; www.embassyofireland.at).Australian Embassy, Mattiellis-trasse 2 (y 01 506 740; www.austria.embassy.gov.au/vien/consular.html). For other embassiesand consulates, consult the AustrianForeign Ministry website, www.bmaa.gv.at.CUSTOMS Anyone arriving from out-side the E.U. is allowed to bring intoAustria up to 200 cigarettes, two bot-tles of wine, and one bottle of liquor,duty free. There are no limits for any-one arriving from another E.U. coun-try. For specifics on what you canbring home with you, Americansshould consult U.S. Customs(y 202 354 1000; www.customs.gov). Canadians should contact theCanadian Customs & RevenueATMS The easiest way to get eurosis via bank or credit card at one ofthe many ATMs (called Bankomats),which are dotted about the city. Bewarned, however, you may becharged a fee for withdrawingmoney from your home bankaccount, and credit-card companiescharge interest.BABYSITTING Many mid- to upper-range hotels can arrange babysit-ting services. Otherwise, contactWienXtra-Kinderinfo (y 01 400084 400; www.kinderinfowien.at) fordetails of reputable babysittingagencies.BANKING HOURS Most banks areopen Monday through Friday from9am to 3pm (Thurs until 4:30pm).BIKE RENTALS Vienna has over300km (186 miles) of marked cyclepaths and plenty of bike-hire outlets(Mar–Oct), including Pedal Power,Ausstellungsstrasse 3 (y 01 7297234; www.pedalpower.at); BicycleRental Hochschaubahn, Prater113, by the roller-coaster ride(y 01 729 5858); and IntersportRiebl, Schönbrunnerstrasse 63(y 01 544 7534; www.intersport.at). Prices start at around €5 (1 hr),€15 (half-day) and €24 (full day).There’s also a bike-hire systemcalled Citybike (Herrengasse 1–3,y 0810 500 500; www.citybikewien.at), with over 60 pick-up pointsaround town—look out for the dis-tinctive circular red “Citybike” sign.All you need is a credit card (MC orV) to release a bicycle at one of thebike stations. You can only hire oneCitybike per card. The first hour isfree of charge (following a one-offregistration charge of €1), thenrates increase from €1 for twohours to €4 for four hours. You canreturn the Citybike to any bike sta-tion. The fee debited will depend onthe time you return the bicycle to anempty bike box. If you don’t have acredit card, you can buy a Tourist
  • 171. 163FastFactsEMBASSIES See “Consulates &Embassies.”EMERGENCIES Dial y 133 for police,y 122 for fire, y 144 for anambulance, y 141 for an emer-gency doctor. Hospitals (Kranken-häuser) with emergency facilities(open 24 hours a day, seven days aweek) include: Allgemeines Kran-kenhaus, Währinger Gürtel (y 0140400-0; www.akhwien.at);Unfallkrankenhaus Meidling, Kun-dratstrasse 37 (y 01 601 50-0;www.ukhmeidling.at); and LorenzBöhler Unfallkrankenhaus,Donaueschingenstrasse 13 (y 0133110-0; www.ukhboehler.at). Adentists’ emergency service oper-ates after hours and at weekends ony 01 512 2078. See also“Pharmacies.”EVENT LISTINGS The main listingsmagazine (German only) for what’son in the city is Falter (www.falter.at), published every Wednesday andavailable from kiosks and newsa-gents. The Tourist Office produces amonthly events listing covering the-ater, concerts, film festivals, specta-tor sports, exhibitions, and more.Look out for the free monthly maga-zine Enjoy Vienna available in barsand hotels, and the Friday edition ofthe free newspaper Heute (in Ger-man) for further listings. Online,www.hauptstadt.at is a useful siteto source information on nightlife,pop concerts, and cinema venues.FAMILY TRAVEL Vienna is a surpris-ingly child-friendly city, with lots ofattractions that appeal to young-sters. Look for the items taggedwith a =icon in this book. There’seven a tourist office, WienXtra-Kin-derinfo, devoted solely to kids (see“Tourist Offices”).GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS The bestgay and lesbian resource in Viennais the Gay Guide, available in vari-ous bars and at the Tourist-InfoWien office in Albertinaplatz. TheAgency (y 800 461 9999; www.cra-adrc.gc.ca). The British shouldcontact HM Revenue & Customs(y 0845 010 9000; www.hmce.gov.uk). Australians should contact Aus-tralian Customs Services (y 026275 6666; www.customs.gov.au).New Zealanders should contact NewZealand Customs (y 1800 428786; www.customs.govt.nz).DENTISTS See “Emergencies.”DINING Breakfast in Vienna tradition-ally consists of a cup of coffeeaccompanied by a bread roll orcroissant with butter, jam, andsometimes a selection of cold cutsand cheeses. If your hotel doesn’tinclude breakfast in its rates, it’s theperfect excuse to indulge at one ofthe city’s legendary coffee houses.Most cafes and coffee houses openfrom 7am to midnight, althoughsome stay open later. Restaurantsgenerally open 11am to 3:30pm and6pm to midnight. Some remainopen all day. Dress codes arerelaxed, except in a handful of moreupmarket restaurants. Many restau-rants require table reservations inadvance, but they are generally notnecessary in cafes, Heurigen, andless formal eateries. Ask your con-cierge to help with any arrange-ments on arrival in Vienna. Youngchildren are welcome in most ven-ues, with the exception of the moreexclusive restaurants.DOCTORS See “Emergencies.”ELECTRICITY Like most of continentalEurope, Austria uses the 220-voltsystem (two round prongs). Ameri-can (110-volt) appliances will needboth a transformer and an adapterplug. Some electronic items, includ-ing most laptops, have built-in trans-formers but will still need a simpleadapter. U.K. 240-volt appliancesneed a continental adapter, widelyavailable at home but difficult to findin Austria.
  • 172. 164TheSavvyTravelerreport at the local police station forany missing items if you intend tomake an insurance claim. For help infinding lost property on a train,phone Südbahnhof (y 01 580 035656) or BahnhofCity Wien West(y 01 580 03 2996); or on a tramor bus, phone the Wiener LinienGeneral Information Office (y 017909-100). Otherwise, try the cen-tral lost property office, ZentralesFundservice, Bastiengasse 36–38(y 01 4000 8091; Mon–Fri 8am–3:15pm (until 5:30pm Thurs).MAIL & POSTAGE Austria’s postal ser-vice is generally swift and reliable.Stamps (Briefmarken) can be boughtat post offices, tobacconists, andsome newspaper kiosks. Letter-boxesare plentiful and easy to find—they’rebright yellow. Most post offices openMonday through Friday 8am to noonand 2 to 6pm. Some also open on Sat-urday 8am to noon. The post officesat Südbahnhof, BahnhofCity WienWest, and Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof havelonger opening hours (including Satand Sun mornings), and the main postoffice at Fleischmarkt 19 (y 0577677 1010; www.post.at) is open daily6am to 10pm.MONEY Austria’s currency is theeuro, with notes issued in denomina-tions of 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 euros,and coins of 1 and 2 euros and also1, 2, 10, 20, and 50 cents. Creditcards are widely used in Vienna(especially Visa and MasterCard) butit is a good idea to carry cash to usein bars and cafes, and to check thepayment methods available beforeyou order a meal or run up a bar bill.If you do get caught short, thereare numerous bureaux de changearound town, and most internationalbanks’ cash cards can be used toobtain cash in local currency fromsome ATMs, although the commis-sion charged can be high. Forup-to-date currency conversioninformation, go to www.xe.com.Rosa Lila Villa, Linke Wienzeile 102(www.villa.at) offers information,advice, and counseling in its LesbianCenter (y 01 586 8150) and theGay Men’s Center (y 01 585 4343).HOLIDAYS Most shops and all banksand services are closed on publicholidays, which are as follows: NewYear’s Day, Epiphany (6th Jan), EasterSunday, Easter Monday, Labor Day(1st May), Ascension Day (sixth Thursafter Easter), Whit Monday (sixthMon after Easter), Corpus Christi,Assumption Day (15th Aug), NationalHoliday (26th Oct), All Saints Day (1stNov), Feast of the Immaculate Con-ception (8th Dec), Christmas Day,and Stefanitag (26th Dec).INSURANCE It is important to takeout adequate personal travel insur-ance for your trip, covering medicalexpenses, theft, loss, repatriation,personal liability, and cancellation.Private medical insurance is essen-tial for all non-E.U. visitors. How-ever, thanks to a reciprocalagreement, citizens of the U.K. andother E.U. countries are entitled toreduced-price medical treatment onpresentation of a valid EuropeanHealth Insurance Card (EHIC—applyonline at www.dh.gov.uk/travellers).Dental care, except emergency acci-dent treatment, is not available freeof charge and should also be cov-ered by private medical insurance.INTERNET Most Viennese hotels haveInternet access in guest rooms or anInternet terminal in the lobby. Manycafes offer the opportunity to log onto the Internet via Wi-Fi with yourown wireless-enabled laptop. Inter-net cafes are scattered around town.A popular one is Surfland InternetCafé, Krugerstrasse 10 (www.surfland.at; daily 10am–11pm; €2.90for 15 min, €5.90 for 1hr, specialrates for Vienna Card holders).LOST PROPERTY Inform all credit-cardcompanies immediately if yourcredit cards are stolen, and file a
  • 173. 165FastFactsPASSPORTS Citizens of the U.S.A.,Canada, the U.K., Ireland, Australia,and New Zealand need only a validpassport to enter Austria. Take aphotocopy of your passport’s infor-mation page and keep it somewhereseparate. This will speed up thereplacement process at yourembassy if it gets lost or stolen.While in Vienna, keep your passportand other valuables in your room/hotel safe.PHARMACIES Pharmacies (Apotheken)are recognizable by their red serpen-tine “A.” Most open Monday throughFriday 8am to 6pm, and Saturday8am to noon. After hours, there is arota system. Either dial y 1550 forinformation, or check at a local phar-macy—they all display a sign indicat-ing the nearest one open.SAFETY Crime rates are low in Viennaalthough it is advisable to take sensi-ble precautions against petty crime:Don’t carry excess cash, and use thehotel safe for valuable goods; don’tleave anything visible in a parkedcar; beware of pickpockets incrowded places (especially in theNaschmarkt); and stick to well-lit,populated areas by night. In particu-lar, steer clear of parks after dusk(especially the Prater and the Stadt-park) and Karlsplatz undergroundstation at night, which is a notoriousdrug-dealing hotspot. If you need apolice station, ask for a Polizei-wachzimmer. For emergency policeassistance, dial y 133.SENIOR TRAVELERS Discounts forseniors are available (with proof ofage) for most museums, publictransport, and entertainment.SHOPPING See “Business Hours.”SMOKING The Viennese are bigsmokers and unlike many countriesin the E.U., at the time of publicationthe ban on smoking in public placeshas not yet come into force. Thereare some no-smoking (Nichtraucher)restaurants, and many others haveORIENTATION TOURS See “Tours.”PARKING In most streets within theGürtel, you need a 30-, 60-, 90-, or120-minute Parkschein (parkingticket), available from tobacconists,banks, train stations, and WienerLinien ticket offices. To validate it,cross out the appropriate time,date, and year, and leave it visibleon the dashboard. Parking restric-tions are in force in the Innere Stadtfrom 9am to 7pm (maximum 90min). If your car gets clamped forillegal parking, the fine for releasingit is around €300. Car parks aremarked with a blue P and chargearound €2 to €5 per hour. You’llfind further information on parkingin the Transportation section ofwww.wien.gv.at.PASSES The Vienna Card (availablefrom hotels and tourist offices,€18.50) provides 72 hours of unlim-ited travel by subway, bus, or tramplus 190 discounts at a variety ofmuseums, attractions, cafes, restau-rants, shops, and Heurigen. Thecard is available from the Tourist-Info Wien office in Albertinaplatz,hotels, and all ticket offices of theVienna Transport Authority. (High-school kids and students are alreadyeligible for discounts at variousViennese sights with their interna-tional student card and so may notbenefit from a Vienna Card.) If you are planning to visit theImperial Apartments, the SisiMuseum and silver collection at theHofburg, Schönbrunn Palace andthe Imperial furniture collection (20min from Schönbrunn at Andreas-gasse 7; y 01 524 3357-0; www.hofmobiliendepot.at; Tues–Sun10am–6pm), you should invest in aSisi Ticket (€23.50 adults, €14kids, valid for one year), making asaving of around 20% on the normaladmission prices. It also means youdon’t have to wait if there arequeues for any of the attractions—abig bonus during peak season.
  • 174. 166TheSavvyTraveler(available from post offices andnewsagents) and coins. A minimumof €.20 is needed to make a localcall. Some post offices have phonebooths where national and interna-tional calls can be made. Cheap ratecalling is Monday through Friday6pm to 8am and at weekends.Avoid making international callsfrom your hotel as hefty surchargesare often added. For directoryenquiries in Austria and the E.U.,dial y 118877; for internationaldirectory enquiries, dial y 0900118877. International country codesfor ringing home are as follows:U.S.A. and Canada y 001; U.K.y 0044; Irish Republic y 00353;Australia y 0061; and New Zea-land y 0064.TICKETS See “How to Get Tickets,”p 138.TIPPING There are no fixed rules fortipping, but a tip of around 10% isexpected in taxis, and €1 per bag isnormal for porters in hotels. Restau-rant prices usually include a covercharge. If not, this has to be statedon the menu. It is customary to givea 10% tip or to round up the bill.Announce the total sum (includingtip) to the waiter when they takeyour money. They will normally thenpocket the tip and return yourchange.TOILETS There are over 300 publictoilets throughout the city (markedWC), mostly open daily 9am to 7pm,although some are open 24 hours aday. Those with attendants costaround €.50. At some stage, be sureto visit the Jugendstil toilets on Gra-ben, which still retain their original1905 green railings, lanterns markedDamen (for women) and Herren (formen), and brass washstands.TOURIST OFFICES Vienna’s main tour-ist office, Tourist-Info Wien, Alber-tinaplatz/corner of Maysedergasse(y 01 24555; www.vienna.info;daily 9am–7pm), provides maps,no-smoking areas. Smoking isbanned in all Austrian airports andrailway stations.SPECTATOR SPORTS The Austrians arefootball-crazy, especially havinghosted the 2008 European Champi-onships, with the national footballleague running from the fall untilearly spring. Two of the nation’s topteams—Austria Memphis andRapid—are based in Vienna. Themain stadium is Ernst Happel Sta-dium in the Prater, which seatsnearly 50,000 (Meiereistrasse 7;y 01 728 0854; U-Bahn 2 (Sta-dion)). Also in the Prater is theFreudenau race course (Rennbahn-strasse 65; y 01 728 9531; www.freudenau.at; races Mar–Nov) andKrieau trotting arena (Nordportal-strasse 274; y 01 728 0046; www.kreiau.at; races Sept–June). TheStadthalle (Vogelweidplatz 14;y 01 981 000; www.stadthalle.com; U-Bahn 6 (Burggasse/Stadthalle)) hosts a variety of sport-ing events (and pop concerts),including ice hockey (Sept–Feb).TAXES Visitors from non-E.U. coun-tries are entitled to reclaim VAT(20%, called Mehrwertsteuer), whichis included in the price of any pur-chase over €75. To claim, a tax-refund check must be filled out bythe shop at the time of purchase(remember to take your passport).This is then stamped by border offi-cials when you leave the E.U. Therefund is most easily claimed whenleaving the country—there’s a coun-ter for instant refunds at ViennaInternational Airport, also one atBahnhofCity Wien West, Südbahn-hof, and at major border crossings.TAXIS See “By Taxi,” p 161.TELEPHONES Austria’s country codeis y 0043, Vienna’s is y 01.When calling a Viennese numberfrom within the city, the local codeis not required. Most public phonebooths accept phone cards
  • 175. 167FastFactsseason). For something a little differ-ent, I recommend a nostalgic hour-long tour in a vintage open-topcoach with Oldtimer Bus Tours,Siedengasse 32 (y 01 503 744 312;www.oldtimertours.at; departingHeldenplatz May to mid-Oct daily11am, 12:30pm, 2pm and 4pm;adults €19, kids €10) or, for theenergetic, a three-hour City Seg-way Tour (y 01 729 7234; www.segway-vienna.at; departing fromthe Staatsoper Apr–Oct daily 2pm(also May–June daily 10am, andJuly–Sept Fri–Sun 10am; €70 perperson, must be at least 12 yearsold). Pedal Power, Ausstel-lungsstrasse 3 (y 01 729 7234;www.pedalpower.at) offers twoguided bike tours daily betweenMay and September—ClassicVienna and Culture & Danube. Eachtour is three hours long, and takesin many of the city’s historic sights.For boat tours, see “Danube BoatTrips,” p 101.TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES Viennacaters reasonably well for travelerswith disabilities (Behinderte),although some of the older muse-ums and attractions have limitedfacilities. Most museums haveramps, and many U-Bahn stationshave wheelchair lifts, but buses andolder trams don’t. The newer tramshave doors at ground level. A planof U-Bahn stations for sight-impairedvisitors is available from WienerLinien. The tourist office website(www.vienna.info) has helpfuladvice and detailed information onsuitable hotels, restaurants, andattractions with disabled facilities,together with parking information,toilet locations, and much more intheir “Specials” section.VAT See “Taxes” above.WEATHER See “The Best Times toGo” and “Climate”, p 156.pamphlets, hotel bookings, souve-nirs, and a ticket booking service.There’s also a small tourist informa-tion office, Tourist-Info Wien Air-port, in the airport Arrivals hall(y 01 7007 32875; daily 6am–11pm). WienXtra Jugendinfo,Babenbergerstrasse 1 (y 01 4000-84100; www.jugendinfowien.at;Mon–Wed 2–9pm, Thurs–Sat1–6pm) is an information serviceaimed at visitors aged 14 to 26. Italso sells reduced-rate tickets forvarious events and pop concerts.WienXtra-Kinderinfo, Museums-Quartier (y 01 400 084 400; www.kinderinfowien.at; Tues–Thurs2–7pm, Fri–Sun 10am–5pm) isdevoted solely to kids, with a smallindoor playground and stacks ofinformation on kids’ activities.TOURIST TRAPS Be careful not to betaken in by the sales pitches of thesmooth-talking ticket touts dressedas Mozart lookalikes, who hangaround the main tourist attractionswaiting to pounce on unsuspectingvisitors. The concert packages theyoffer tend to be touristy and over-priced. A couple of the more reputa-ble establishments are listed in theArts & Entertainment chapter, p 133.TOURS Vienna has several tour com-panies. Cityrama, Opernpassage(y 01 504 7500; www.cityrama.at)offers tours lasting from one hour(in central Vienna) to longer excur-sions to the Vienna Woods andnearby cities, including Salzburg,Prague, and Bratislava. A great wayto explore the city is on the ViennaSightseeing buses, Graf Starhem-berggasse 25 (y 01 712 4683-0;www.viennasightseeing.at). Buy aticket for one hour (€13), two hours(€16), or 24/48 hours (€20/27) thenhop on and off at the main sights asmany times as you want between10am and 8pm (buses run every 15min June–Aug, less frequently out of
  • 176. 168TheSavvyTraveler1349  The Plague almost wipes outthe entire population of Vienna.1365  Vienna University is founded.15TH CENTURY  A period of politicaland economic instability followsthe massacre and expulsion ofthe Jews in 1421. After the Hus-site Wars, Vienna temporarilyfalls under Hungarian rule.1438  Albrecht V is elected HolyRoman Emperor and Viennabecomes the seat of the Empire.1469  Vienna is made a bishopricand the Stephansdom becomes acathedral.1493  Emperor Maximilian I drivesthe Hungarians out of Austria.1498  Maximilian I founds theVienna Boys’ Choir.1521  Ferdinand I becomes sover-eign of Lower Austria and abol-ishes Vienna’s special privileges.The citizens revolt and Ferdinandresponds with violent suppres-sion. Following the King of Hun-gary’s death, Ferdinand I laysclaim to the Hungarian crownand attempts to expand hisauthority throughout the region.In reaction, the Sultan of theOttoman Empire declares war onthe Habsburgs.1529  The first Turkish siege takesplace. After the withdrawal of theTurks, Vienna is transformed intoa fortress to protect it from con-tinued Ottoman threat.1571  Following the Reformation,Protestant Maximilian II allowsreligious freedom. At this time,8% of the city is Protestant.1618–48  A Bohemian rebellionstarts the Thirty Years’ War. In2000 b.c.  First Indo-Germanic tribessettle in the region.400 b.c.  Celtic tribes create a set-tlement called Vindebona atHoher Markt.15 b.c.  Roman legions occupy Vin-debona. A further settlement (intoday’s Belvedere district)becomes a Roman garrison town.280  The Romans introduce viticul-ture to the region.433  Vindebona is destroyed byHuns, leading to a period of inva-sions by Goths, Avars, and Slavtribes.8TH CENTURY Charlemagnedeposes the Duke of Bavaria andfounds the Carolingian Empire.First mention (in the SalzburgAnnals) of the name “Wenia” onthe borders of the Eastern Marchor Ostmark (later renamedOstarrichi).976  The Babenbergs become mar-graves of the Eastern March.1137  Vienna receives its towncharter; construction of theStephansdom begins.1200  The city walls are erected.1246  The last of the Babenbergs,Duke Frederick II, is killed. Con-trol of Austria passes to KingOtokar of Bohemia.1278  Otokar is killed in the Battleof the Marchfeld against KingRudolf I von Habsburg. Thismarks the start of the Habsburgdynasty (which rules until 1918).LATE MIDDLE AGES  The Habsburgcourt becomes a cultural hub ofcentral Europe, attracting numer-ous musicians and minstrels.Vienna: A Brief History
  • 177. 169Vienna:ABriefHistoryEARLY 19TH CENTURY  The onset ofindustrialization leads to a rapidincrease in Vienna’s population.1825  Johann Strauss forms his firstwaltz orchestra, and his twosons, Johann and Josef, follow inhis footsteps.1848  The citizens rise up againstpolitical repression. Ferdinand Iabdicates in favor of his nephew,Franz Josef.1848–1916  Franz Josef transformsVienna into a magnificent mod-ern metropolis. The Ringstrassebecomes a grand boulevard withelegant public buildings.1867  Franz Josef becomes the dualmonarch of Austria-Hungary.1869  The State Opera House openswith a performance of Mozart’sDon Giovanni on 25th May.1897  The association of artistsknown as the “Secession” isfounded, led by Gustav Klimt.1897–1910  New mass political par-ties start to emerge, includingGerman Nationalism and theSocial Democrats. Anti-SemiteKarl Lueger, leader of the Chris-tian Socialist Party, becomesVienna’s mayor.1903  The Wiener Werkstätte isfounded.1914  Archduke Franz Ferdinand isassassinated in Sarajevo, startingthe chain-reaction slide towardWorld War I.1918  World War I ends, the dualmonarchy collapses and Austriabecomes a republic on 12thNovember.1920–34  Socialism prevails in so-called “Red Vienna.”1938  Anschluss: Hitler annexes hishome country, and Austria1623 the Counter-Reformationbegins.1629  A further plague claims30,000 lives.1638  The Turks invade again,bringing with them a lasting“gift”—bags of coffee.1683–1736  Prince Eugène of Savoyleads the Imperial Army to vic-tory against the Turks and theFrench, and reasserts theHabsburg Empire’s status as amajor power. Vienna becomesan international center of artsand music.1740  Maria Theresa—the greatestof all Habsburg rulers—ascendsthe throne. Her 40-year reignushers in a golden era.18TH CENTURY  Vienna developsfrom a court-based feudal societyinto the dazzling bourgeois capi-tal of a great European power.The death penalty is abolishedand there is greater tolerancetoward Jews and non-CatholicChristians. Majestic palaces,churches, summer residences,and parks spring up throughoutthe city.1750–1830  Music flourishes inVienna. Gluck, Haydn, Mozart,Beethoven, and Schubert all liveand work in the city.1792  The reign of Franz II begins.He is later appointed Holy RomanEmperor.1805  Napoleon lays siege toVienna; Franz II gives up the titleof Holy Roman Emperor in 1806,becoming Franz I of Austria.1809  Napoleon invades again andtakes up residence in the Schön-brunn Palace. In 1810 he marriesFranz I’s daughter, ArchduchessMarie Louise.
  • 178. 170TheSavvyTraveler1995  Austria joins the E.U. and theEurozone.2006  Austria assumes presidencyof the E.U. for a term of sixmonths.2008  Vienna hosts the 2008 Euro-pean Football Championships.2009  Vienna celebrates the 200thanniversary of Haydn’s death.2011  Vienna celebrates the 100thanniversary of Mahler’s death.becomes his “Ostmark” in theThird German Reich.1945  World War II ends. The Rus-sians occupy Vienna on 11thApril, followed by the other Allies.1955  A treaty signed in the Belve-dere Palace marks the end of theAllied occupation and guaranteesAustria’s sovereignty andneutrality.1979  With the building of the Inter-national Center, Vienna becomesthe third United Nations city,after New York and Geneva.Vienna’s Art & ArchitectureFew cities can match Vienna’s architectural riches. Indeed,the entire city center has been declared a UNESCO World Cul-tural Heritage Site due to the remarkable diversity and quality of itsbuildings.Early ArchitectureLittle survives of Vienna’s earliestarchitecture except some Romanremains at Michaelerplatz and inthe Römermuseum in Hoher Markt.Few buildings retain any Roman-esque features either. The roundedarches, thick walls, and small win-dows typical of this period weremostly replaced by the medievalGothic style in the 13th century. Thefinest example is the city’s oldestchurch—the Ruprechtskirche.Gothic: 1150–1550The Gothic style imported fromFrance enabled builders to makewalls thinner and taller, with largewindows to let in more natural light.Other Gothic features includedpointed arches, delicate stoneworktracery, flying buttresses (free-standing exterior pillars to supportthe building), and elaborately con-structed ceilings, using the newlyacquired techniques of cross-vault-ing and fan-vaulting. The intricate filigree work of theMaria am Gestade Church andthe soaring proportions of the mag-nificent Stephansdom are bothtextbook examples of the Gothicstyle.Renaissance: 1550–1650The Renaissance style was firstdeveloped in Florence, Italy, as aconscious revival of certain aspectsof ancient Greek and Roman design,with an emphasis on geometry andregularity, enlivened by decoration. Symmetry, proportion, and theuse of a classical “vocabulary” ofcolumns, lintels, arches, domes, andniches are the main characteristicsof this architectural style. Surprisingly few Renaissancebuildings survive in Vienna. The citywas frequently under attack duringthis period, so precious resources
  • 179. 171Vienna’sArt&ArchitecturePrunksaal—Austria’s finest exam-ple of secular baroque—in theNationalbibliothek. The BelvederePalace, Schwarzenberg Palace,and St. Peter’s Church—allimpressive baroque edifices—werecreated by his successor, Lukas vonHildebrandt. To see the finestrococo interiors in the city, visit theSchönbrunn Palace and theAcademy of Sciences.Biedermeier: 1815–1850A new bourgeois culture known asViennese “Biedermeier” emergedafter the Napoleonic Wars and theCongress of Vienna in 1815. This leftits mark not only on architecture,but also on interior design and thevisual arts, paving the way for thelater styles known as Jugendstil andthe Secession. The main character-istics of the Biedermeier style aresimplicity, elegance, and functional-ity of design. Splendid examples of VienneseBiedermeier architecture includethe Stadttempel and theDreimäderlhaus.Historicism (neoclassicism):1800–1880At the peak of his power followingthe 1848 Revolution, the youngEmperor Franz Josef I set aboutupstaging Napoleon III’s radicalmakeover of Paris. He invited themost famous architects in Europe tocreate a magnificent new boulevardright round the heart of Vienna’shistoric city center, or Innere Stadt.Known as the Ringstrasse, itbecame a showcase for bombasticimperial buildings, which lined it oneither side. The fashionable style atthat time was a version of neoclassi-cism known in Vienna as “Histori-cism.” This was a reaction againstthe fussy complexities of baroqueand rococo architecture, and areversion to the purer classicism ofyesteryear. Historicism wasof building materials were used tostrengthen the fortifications. Fineexamples include the Stallburg, theSchweizertor, and the strikinggabled facade of the Franzis-kanerkirche (the interior is a mish-mash of Gothic, Renaissance, andbaroque styles).Baroque & Rococo:1650–1800Vienna is best known for the splen-dor of its baroque palaces andchurches. This was Vienna’s goldenage, and baroque became thefavored style of the Habsburgs who,finally freed from the financial bur-dens of repeated wars and invasions,embarked on an unprecedentedbuilding spree. Originating in Italy,the baroque style modified the clas-sical ground-rules of Renaissancearchitecture, using them in a moretheatrical way, which appealed tothe emotions. Running in tandemwith the Counter-Reformation, thebaroque style also clearly underlinedthe wealth and power of the CatholicChurch and the Habsburg rulers. Keyfeatures of baroque include classicalforms enhanced by grand curvinglines, exuberant ornamentation andcarving (often in gilt, stucco, or mar-ble), monumental ceiling frescoes, adramatic use of color, light andshade, plus illusory effects liketrompe l’oeil. The rococo style developed inthe early 18th century as an evenmore ornate, blousey version ofbaroque, involving vast quantities ofgilded stucco and brightly coloredfrescoes. This was the favorite styleof the Empress Maria Theresa,hence Austrian rococo is sometimesreferred to as “late-baroque There-sian style.” Karlskirche is the crown jewelof Vienna’s baroque treasures,designed by the Austrian architectFischer von Erlach, who also builtthe Schönbrunn Palace and the
  • 180. 172TheSavvyTravelerformed, led by Klimt, Wagner,Olbrich, and Hoffman. This uniquelyViennese style stripped away someof the more decorative aspects ofJugendstil, focusing instead on func-tionalism and geometry. The best examples of the style inVienna include the iconic Seces-sion Building, Wagner’s Pavilions,the Postsparkasse, Majolikahaus,and Loos’s American Bar.Modern Architecture 1970–The post-war years marked a leanarchitectural period in Vienna asAustria struggled to cope with theignominy of military defeat and eco-nomic recession. However, duringthe early 1970s and ’80s a newgeneration of architects emerged tocreate some highly imaginativestructures. Pre-eminent among themwas the eccentric genius, Friedens-reich Hundertwasser, whose multi-colored KunstHausWien,Hundertwasserhaus, and Fern-wärme incinerator brighten themodern cityscape. Hundertwasserdied at the turn of the millennium,but this creative trend has continuedinto the 21st century. No single stylepredominates, but the use of glassand steel is widespread. The innova-tive Gasometer development andHans Hollein’s hugely controversialHaas Haus, right at the heart of theUNESCO-protected Innere Stadt (citycenter), are noteworthy examples ofthe quirky modern style.characterized by clean, elegantlines, balance and symmetry, andthe use of neoclassical motifs andcolumns. Typical examples of VienneseHistoricism on the Ringstrasseinclude the Burgtheater, the Kun-sthistorisches Museum (KHM)and the NaturalhistorischesMuseum (NHM) epitomizing theItalian neo-Renaissance style. TheParliament Building evokes aGreek interpretation of Historicismwith its columns and statues ofGreek philosophers. Also along theRingstrasse are several fine neo-Gothic edifices, including theVotivkirche and Neues Rathaus.Jugendstil & Secession:1880–1920The collision of tradition and moder-nity in Vienna around 1900 createdan unusually fertile climate for thearts. Architects felt constrained byneoclassicism, although they foundthe clean lines and elegant stylesappealing. As the Art Nouveaumovement emerged in other partsof Europe, Vienna spawned its owndistinctive version, known as“Jugendstil” (Young Style). Classichallmarks of the style include sim-ple, functional lines; organic, flowingmotifs (often flowers, flames, waves,or flowing hair); and extensive useof iron, stucco, and stained glass. In 1897, an iconoclastic splinter-group called the Secession wasUseful Words & PhrasesUseful PhrasesENGLISH GERMAN PRONUNCIATIONGood day Guten Tag goo-ten tagHow are you? Wie geht es Ihnen? vee gait e see-nenvery well Sehr gut zair gootthank you Danke dan-keh
  • 181. 173CurrentHeading1ENGLISH GERMAN PRONUNCIATIONyou’re welcome Bitte sehr bee-teh zairgoodbye Auf Wiedersehen owf vee-der-zainplease Bitte bee-tehyes/no Ja/Nein yah/nynexcuse me/sorry Entschuldigung ent-shool-di-gungWhere is/are …? Wo is/sind …? Voh ist/zintleft/right links/rechts links/rekhtsstraight on geradeaus ge-raa de-owsI would like… Ich hätte gerne … Ick heh-teh ger-nehDo you have a…? Haben Sie ein …? Hah-ben zee eynHow much is it? Wie viel kostet es? Vee feel kos-tet esWhen? Wann? VanWhat? Was? Vasyesterday Gestern ges-terntoday Heute hoi-tehtomorrow Morgen mor-gengood/bad gut/schlecht goot/shlektbetter besser beh-sermore/less mehr/weniger mair/vay-niggaDo you speak English?Sprechen Sie Englisch?Shpre-khen zee eng-lishI don’t understand Ich verstehe nicht ich fer-shtaia nikhtThe bill please die Rechnung bitte die rekh-nung bee-tehI’m looking for… Ich suche … ich zoo-khethe station der Bahnhof dair baan-hofa hotel ein Hotel eyn ho-telthe market der Markt dair mahrkta restaurant ein Restaurant eyn res-tow-rona toilet eine Toilette ey-neh toi-le-teha bank eine Bank ey-neh banka pharmacy eine Apotheke ey-neh a-po-tay-keha doctor ein Arzt eyn artstbreakfast Frühstück froo-shtooklunch Mittagessen mi-taak-essendinner Abendessen ar-bend-essencoffee and cake Kaffee und Kuchen kah-fay unt koo-khenThe menu please die Karte bitte dee kaar-teh bee-tehNumbersENGLISH GERMAN PRONUNCIATION1 eins aints2 zwei tsvy3 drei dry4 vier feer5 fünf funf6 sechs zeks7 sieben zee-ben173UsefulWords&Phrases
  • 182. 174TheSavvyTravelerENGLISH GERMAN PRONUNCIATION8 acht akht9 neun noin10 zehn tsenDays of the WeekENGLISH GERMAN PRONUNCIATIONMonday Montag mawn-taagTuesday Dienstag deens-taagWednesday Mittwoch mit-vokhThursday Donnerstag donners-taagFriday Freitag fry-taagSaturday Samstag zams-taagSunday Sonntag zon-taag
  • 183. 175IndexIndexSee also Accommoda-tions and Restaurantindexes, below.AAcademy of Sciences, 171Accommodations. See alsoAccommodations Indexbest bets, 142maps, 143–147Adam and Eve (Klimt), 69Adria Wien, 131Air travel, 159–160Akademietheater, 139Albertina, 91Albrecht V, 168Alles Seife, 85Alpine & BotanicalGardens, 68Alsergrund district, 70–73Alte Donau, 100Altmann & Kühne, 88American Bar, 124, 172Amusement parks, 97–99Antiques, shopping for, 85Apartment rentals, 161Apple Strudel Show, 45Arcadia, 80, 92Architecture, 170–172Architekturzentrum Wien, 76Arnold Schönberg Center,38, 39, 48, 49Art galleries and museums,170–172Belvedere, 33, 66–69, 91KUNSTALLE wien, 76KunsthistorischesMuseum, 18, 19, 58,119Leopold Museum,34–35, 76, 77, 117Museum für AngewandteKunst, 12, 13, 35, 60Museum für Völk-skunde, 78Museum of Modern Art,76–78, 91–92Secession, 16, 33shopping for art, 85Arts and Craftsmovement, 34artup (shop), 80, 87ATMs, 162Attersee (Klimt), 77Augarten, 80, 85Augustinerkirche, 31, 55,134, 137Aux Gazelles, 124, 129BBabenburgs, 168Babette’s, 85Babu (club), 132Babysitting, 162Backhausen, 85–86Badeschiff, 124, 130Ballet, 138Banks, 162Baroque architecture, 171Bars, 129–132Beaches, 100Beauty products, shoppingfor, 85Beer cellars, 130Beer-gardens, 99Beethoven, Ludwig van, 33,37, 50, 103Beethovenplatz, 50Belvedere, 33, 66–69, 91,171Berg, Alban, 38“Bermuda Triangle” nightzone, 64Biedermeier architecture,171Bike rentals, 97, 162Blau, Tina, 69Blue Chinese Room (ImperialApartments), 107Blue Danube Shipping, 101Blue Danube waltz, 39, 40Boats, 100, 101Boeckl, Herbert, 69Böhle (deli-bistro), 88Bonaparte, Napoleon, 169Books, shopping for, 85Börse, 60, 72–73Botanical gardens, 68Brahms, Johannes, 40Bratislava, Slovakia, 101Bride (Klimt), 69Bristol hotel, 51, 149British Bookshop, 85B72 (music venue), 132Bundestheaterkassen, 138Burggarten, 18, 38, 58Burgkapelle (Schweizerhof),30Burgkino, 134, 138Burgtheater (NationalTheater), 60, 139, 172Burial rituals, 54Buses, 160, 161Business hours, 162CCafé Korb, 64Café Savoy, 124, 131Café Sperl, 4Café Willendorf, 131Cake, 5Carolingian Empire, 168Cellphones, 158–159Central Cemetery, 41Children, activities for, 11in accommodations,148, 149, 151–154neighborhood walks,64, 65, 68, 76outdoor activities, 95,97–101, 103, 106,108performing arts, 140resources, 163in restaurants, 10, 33,116–122shopping, 90special interest tours,28–30, 38, 41–45,58, 60Children’s Museum (ZoomKindermuseum),44–45, 76Christmas markets, 5Churches and synagoguesAugustinerkirche, 31,55, 134, 137Burgkapelle, 30Franziskanerkirche,64, 171Franz-von-Assisi-Kirche,23Jesuitenkirche, 64–65Kapuzinerkirche, 54Karlskirche, 16, 54,67–68, 171Maria am Gestade,55, 170Maria Treu Kirche, 78Michaelerkirche, 55Peterskirche, 55, 63,171Ruprechtskirche, 54,60, 65, 170Schottenkirche, 71Servitenkirche, 73Stadttempel, 49, 171Stephansdom, 11, 54Votivkirche, 60, 72, 172Church of Capuchin Friars(Kapuzinerkirche), 54Cinema, 138City Centerdining in, 112–113lodging in, 144–145nightlife in, 126–127performing arts in, 135City Center North, 82–83City Center South, 143City Center West, 136, 146City Synagogue (Stadttem-pel), 49Classical music, 137, 138
  • 184. 176IndexHHaas Haus, 63, 172Habsburg dynasty, 168, 169Hall of Ceremonies (ImperialApartments), 107Hall of Mirrors (ImperialApartments), 107Hansen, Theophil, 72Haus der Musik, 41, 43–44Heinrich II, 71Heldenplatz (HeroesSquare), 47–48Hernals district, 92Herrengasse, 71Herzilein Wien, 90Heurigen (wine taverns), 103Historicism (architecture),171–172Hitler, Adolf, 48, 169–170Hofbackstube, 45Hofburg, 4, 10, 28. See alsoImperial ViennaHoffman, Josef, 34Hoher Markt, 65Holidays, 164Hollein, Hans, 63Holzer Galerie, 85Horseback riding, 4, 28, 44Hotels. See Accommoda-tions IndexHundertwasser, Friedens-reich, 22, 24, 43Hundertwasserhaus, 22, 24,172Hussite Wars, 168IImperial Apartments, 10, 29,106, 107Imperial Armory, 60Imperial hotel, 51, 142, 151Imperial Silver Collection,28–29Imperial Vienna, 26–31Impressionist paintings, 69Industrialization, 169Insurance, 164Interiors, shopping for,85–87Internet, 164JJazzland, 132Jesuitenkirche, 64–65Jewelry, shopping for, 91Jewish sights, 46–49J & L Lobmeyr, 80, 86Johann Strauss Gasse 4, 40Josefsplatz, 30–31Josefstadt, 78, 114–115Josefstadt Theater, 78Eugène of Savoy, 168European Football Champi-onships, 169European Union member-ship, 169Event listings, 163Exchange rate, 164FFalter (magazine), 138Fashion, 87–88Ferdinand I, 168Ferdinand II, 37Fernwärme, 24, 172Ferstel, Heinrich von, 72Festivals, 156–158Fidelio (opera), 40Figlmüller, 4, 10, 110Flex (club), 124, 130Fluc (bar), 131, 132Folk dance, 39Folklore Museum (Museumfür Völkskunde), 78Food, 88–90. See also DiningFranz II, 28, 169Franziskanerkirche, 64, 171Franz Joseph (Franz Josef),10, 12, 28, 31, 35, 58, 169Franz-von-Assisi-Kirche, 23Freud, Siegmund, 47, 60, 73Freytag & Berndt, 80, 85Freyung, 71Frey Wille, 91Full-day toursone day, 8–13two days, 14–19three days, 20–24GGänselhäufel, 100Gasometer, 23, 172Gay and lesbian travelersbars and clubs for, 131resources, 163–164German language, 172–174German Nationalism, 169Gerstl, Richard, 69Gifts, 91Gluck, Christoph Willibald, 40“Golden Cabbage,” 33Gothic architecture, 170Graben (street), 63Great Gallery (Imperial Apart-ments), 107Greene, Graham, 50, 51Grinzing vineyards, 102–103Grüne Erde, 80, 86Grüner Veltliner white wines,103Gürtel district, 128, 132Climate, 156, 157, 162Clothing, 87–88Collalto Palace, 37Concerts, 131–132, 162Conran, Terence, 149Consulates, 162Cruises, 100, 101Currency, 164Customs, 162–163DDance clubs, 130–132Dance performances,138–139Danube Canal Cruise, 22, 23,43, 100Danube Park, 101Danube Riverlodging near, 147outdoor activities,100–101swimming in, 6Das möbel > dasgeschäft, 86Das Wiener Staatsballett,134, 138DDSG, 22Death and Life (Klimt), 77Demel (bakery), 88Dentists, 163Design, interior, 34, 85–87Dining, 163. See alsoRestaurant Indexbest bets, 110maps, 111–115Disabled travelers, 167Doctors, 163Documentation Center ofAustrian Resistance(DÖW), 47Donau. See Danube RiverDonauinsel, 101Donauturm, 101Dorotheum, 80, 85DÖW (Documentation Centerof Austrian Resistance), 47Dreimäderlhaus, 37, 72Driving, 159–161Dschungel Wien, 134, 140Dvorák, Antonin, 40EEden Bar, 124, 131Electricity, 163Elisabeth, Empress ofAustria, 12, 28Embassies, 162Emergency services, 163English Theater, 140Ephesus Museum, 60Erlach, Fischer von, 67, 106
  • 185. 177IndexMuseum of Modern Art(MUMOK), 76–78, 91–92Museum shops, 91–92MuseumsQuartier (MQ) dis-trict, 18, 44, 74–78, 136Music, 6classical, 137, 138live, 131–132, 162special interest tour,36–41Musicals, 139Musikfilmfestival, 138Musikhaus Doblinger, 92Musikverein, 6, 13on neighborhoodwalk, 67performing arts at,134, 137on special interest tour,39, 41NNaschmarkt, 17, 80, 89, 111,125National Theater (Burgth-eater), 60, 139Naturhistorisches Museum(NHM), 58–59, 172Nazi government, 48,169–170Neidhardt frescoes, 64Neighborhood walksBelvedere, 66–69Museum Quartier,74–78Schottenring & Alsergr-und, 70–73Stephansdom, 62–65Neoclassicism (architecture),171–172Neubaudining in, 114–115nightlife in, 125shopping in, 5, 84Neue Burg, 31, 60Neue Donau, 101Neues Rathaus (New TownHall), 60, 172NHM (NaturhistorischesMuseum), 58–59Nightlife, 6bars, 129–132beer cellars, 130“Bermuda Triangle”night zone, 64best bets, 124dance clubs, 130–132for gay and lesbiantravelers, 131live music, 131–132maps, 125–128“Night of Glass,” 48Lower Belvedere, 68. Seealso BelvedereLueger, Karl, 169Lutz (bar), 129MMadame Tussaud’s, 43,98–99Mädchen und Buben, 80, 90The Magic Flute (opera), 40Mahler, Gustav, 48Mail, 164Majolikahaus, 172MAK. See Museum fürAngewandte KunstMakart, Hans, 95Manner (bakery), 88Maps, shopping for, 85Margareten, 111Maria am Gestade (St. Maryon the Riverbank), 55, 170Mariahilf, 84Maria Treu Kirche, 78Market (club), 130–131Markets, Christmas, 5The Martyrdom of St. Sebas-tian (Rottmayr), 63Maximilian I, 168Maximilian II, 106Mayer am Pfarrplatz, 103Meinl am Graben, 80, 88–89Meinl’s Weinbar, 124, 129Michaelerkirche (St.Michael’s Church), 55Michaelerplatz, 28, 170Michel Mayer, 87Military history, 69Million Room (ImperialApartments), 107Mode Mühlbauer, 80, 87Modern architecture, 172Moser, Koloman, 34Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus,37, 38, 40, 107, 108Mozartgasse, 40Mozarthaus, 11–12, 41, 64,137MQ district. See Museums-Quartier districtMUMOK (Museum of Mod-ern Art), 76–78, 91–92Munch, Edvard, 69Museum für AngewandteKunst (MAK), 12, 13museum shop, 80, 91special interest tour,35, 60Museum für Völkskunde(Folklore Museum), 78Museum of MilitaryHistory, 69Joseph II, 108Judenplatz, 47Jüdisches Museum, 48Judith (Klimt), 69Jugendstil, 32–35, 172KKaffeehäuser, 4Kagran (military paradeground), 101Kammeroper, 139Kapuzinerkirche (Church ofCapuchin Friars), 54Karas, Anton, 51Karlskirche, 16, 54, 67–68,171Karl VI, 16, 67Kärtnerstrasse, 81Kettenbrückengasse 6, 40KHM. See KunsthistorischesMuseumKiehl’s, 85The Kiss (Klimt), 33, 69Klimt, Gustav, 33, 69, 77Knips, Sonja, 69Knize, 87Konzerte im Mozarthaus,134, 137Konzerthaus, 137Kristallnacht, 48Kuchen mit Schlag, 5KUNSTHALLE wien, 76KunstHausWien, 22–24, 43,172Kunsthistorisches Museum(KHM), 18, 19, 58, 119,172Kunstlerhaus, 67Kursalon Wien, 95, 137LLa Maison d’Elisa, 91Landler folk dance, 39Lanner, Joseph, 39Le K-Fé, 124, 129Lena Hoschek, 80, 87Leopold I, 49, 106Leopold Museum, 34–35, 76,77, 117Leopoldstadt, 49Lichterloh, 80, 86Lilarum Puppet Theater,134, 140Lipizzaner, 88Live music, 131–132, 162Lobau National Park, 101Lodging. SeeAccommodationsLoos, Adolf, 35Loos Haus, 28, 35Lost property, 164
  • 186. 178IndexSchatzkammer (Treasury),10, 30Schauspielhaus, 140Schiele, Egon, 34, 69, 77Schindler, Emil, 95Schlosspark, 108Schönberg, Arnold, 38, 39,48, 49Schönbichler, 89–90Schönbrunn, 95, 104–108Schönbrunner Schlosskonz-erte, 134, 137Schönbrunn Palace & Park,5–6, 24, 45, 106, 171Schönbrunn Zoo, 24, 45, 108Schottenkirche, 71Schottenring district, 70–73Schreyvogelgasse 8, 51Schubert, Franz, 40Schullin, 91Schwarzenbergplatz, 48,171Schweizerhof (Swiss Court),29–30, 171Schweizertor (Schweizerhof),30Secession Building, 16–17,33, 172Secessionist art, 77, 169,172Second Viennese School ofMusic, 38Sektcomptoir, 130Self-Portrait (Schiele), 77Senior travelers, 165Servitenkirche, 73Sewer system, 50–51Shakespeare & Co, 85Shoppingart and antiques, 85beauty products, 85best bets, 80books and maps, 85for children, 90design and interiors, 34,85–87fashion and accesso-ries, 87–88food and wines, 88–90gifts and souvenirs, 91jewelry, 91maps, 81–84museum shops, 91–92in Neubau district, 5, 84Sibelius, Jean, 40Siebenstern Bräuwirtshaus,124, 130Siegmund Freud Museum,47, 73Silberkammer, 28–29Sisi (Elisabeth, Empress ofAustria), 12, 28phil (café/shop), 80, 86, 124,129Piccini, 89Planetarium, 99Planter’s Club, 124, 129Playgrounds, 95Plutzer Bräu, 130Porgy & Bess, 124, 132Postage, 164Postsparkasse, 35, 172Pozzo, Andrea, 64Prater, 5, 22, 23, 43, 51,95–99Prater Sauna (club), 131Protestants, 168Prunksaal (Josefsplatz),30–31, 171Public transport ticketsystem, 160–161QQ [kju:] (club), 132RRaimund Theater, 139Red Room, 124, 129Reisenbergweg, 103Religious tolerance, 168, 169Renaissance architecture,170–171Ressel Park, 40Restaurants. See RestaurantIndexrhiz (cafe-bar), 124, 132R Horns Wien, 87Riesenrad, 99The Ringstrasse, 5, 56–60River Danube. See DanubeRiverRococo architecture, 171Rollerblade rentals, 97Römermuseum, 65, 170Rottmayr, Michael, 63, 67Rupert of Salzburg, 65Ruprechtskirche, 54, 60, 65,170SSacher Confiserie, 80, 89Sacher hotel, 51, 142, 153Safety, 165St. Mary on the Riverbank(Maria am Gestade), 55,170St. Michael’s Church(Michaelerkirche), 55St. Peter’s Church (Peter-skirche), 55, 63, 171Salieri, Antonio, 107Sammlung Alter Musik-instrumente, 37–3899 Wines, 89Nouvel, Jean, 153OOldbrich, Joseph Maria, 16Old Musical Instruments Col-lection (Neue Burg), 60Onyx Bar, 13Opera, 40, 58, 139Oppenheimer, Max, 69Orangerie im Schloss Schön-brunn, 106–108Ottokar I, 168Ottoman Empire, 168Otto Wagner Pavilions, 33,67, 172Outdoor activitiesThe Danube, 100–101Grinzing, 102–103Prater, 95–99Schönbrunn, 95,104–108Stadtpark, 94–95PPalais Albertina, 31Parking, 165ParksBurggarten, 18, 38, 58Danube Park, 101Lobau National Park,101Prater, 5, 22, 23, 43, 51,95–99Ressel Park, 40Schlosspark, 108Schönbrunn Palace &Park, 5–6, 24, 45,106, 171Stadtpark, 39, 60,94–95Parlament, 60, 172Pasqualati Haus, 37, 72passage (club), 124, 131Passes, 165Passports, 165Performing artsbest bets, 134cinema, 138classical music, 137,138dance, 138–139maps, 135–136musicals, 139opera, 139theaters, 60, 78,139–140Perzy, Erwin, 92Peterskirche, 55, 63, 171Petit Point, 91Pharmacies, 165
  • 187. 179IndexVienna International GardenShow, 101Vienna Philharmonic Orches-tra, 43–44, 137Vienna Stock Exchange,72–73Vienna University, 168Vienna Woods, 5Viennese Workshop. SeeWiener WerkstätteVindebona, 168Vineyards, 103Volksgarten, 31, 124, 131Volksoper, 134, 139Volkstheater, 140Votivkirche, 60, 72, 172WWaaggasse 1, 40Wagenburg, 106Wagner, Otto, 33–35, 67Wagner Apartments, 34Walde, Alfons, 77Walking around, 160. Seealso Neighborhood walksWaltzes, 39Wax museum, 43, 98–99Webern, Anton von, 38Wein & Co, 90Weinorgel, 130Weinstadt, 132Whitbread, Rachel, 47Wieden district, 39–40Wiedner Hauptstrasse 7, 40Wiedner Hauptstrasse 32, 40Wiener Prater, 97–98Wiener Sängerknaben, 30,134, 138Wiener Werkstätte (VienneseWorkshop), 34, 77, 169Wien Museum, 16, 67Wien-Ticket Pavilion, 138WineGrinzing vineyards,102–103shopping for, 88–90viticulture history, 168Winter Riding School, 44Woka Lamps Vienna, 87Wolford, 80, 88XXocolat, 80, 90ZZeiss Planetarium, 99Zoo, 24, 45, 108Zoom Kindermuseum(Children’s Museum),44–45, 76TTanzquartier Wien, 138–139Taxes, 166Taxis, 161, 166Technisches MuseumWien, 45Technische Universität, 40Telephones, 158–159, 166Theater an der Wien, 40, 139Theater in der Josefstadt,140Theaters, 60, 78, 139–140,172Theresa, Maria, 106, 169The Third Man (film), 50–51,95, 99Third Man PrivateCollection, 50Thirty Years’ War, 168–169Tickets, 138, 162, 166Tilgner, Viktor, 38Tipping, 166Toilets, 166Tostmann Trachten, 80, 87Tourist offices, 156,166–167Tours, 166–167. See alsoFull-day tours; Specialinterest toursTown hall, 60, 172Trains, 160Trams, 5, 161Transportation, 159–161Treasury (Schatzkammer),10, 30Trzeßniewski, 90Turks, 168, 1692006Feb01, 88UU-Bahn, 33, 161United Nations, 101, 169UNO City, 99, 101Upper Belvedere, 68, 69.See also BelvedereVVIC (Vienna InternationalCenter), 101Viennaart and architecture,170–172favorite moments in,4–6history of, 168–170maps, 2–3Vienna Bag, 88Vienna Boys’ Choir, 140, 168Vienna International Center(VIC), 101Sisi Museum, 10, 29Sisi Vienna, 87Skyscrapers, 101Smoking, 165–166Snow globes, 92Social Democrats, 169Socialism, 169Song (shop), 87Souvenirs, 91Spanish Riding School,4, 28, 44Special interest toursfor children, 42–45churches, 52–55imperial Vienna, 26–31Jewish Vienna, 46–49Jugendstil Vienna,32–35music, 36–41The Ringstrasse, 56–60“The Third Man” tour,50–51Spectator sports, 166Spider, world’s largest, 59Spittelberg, 78Sports, spectator, 166Spring at the Prater (Blau), 69Staatsoper, 18–19history of, 169performing arts, 134,138, 139special interest tours,38, 48, 58Stadtpark, 39, 60, 94–95Stadttempel, 49, 171Stallburg (Josefsplatz),30, 171State Opera. See StaatsoperStatuary (Stadtpark), 95Steirisch-Pub, 124, 130Stephansdomarchitecture, 170churches and syna-gogues, 11, 54construction of, 168neighborhood walk,62–65Sternwarte Urania, 23Stilwerk, 80, 86–87Stock Exchange, 72–73Strandbar Herrmann, 124,130Strauss, Johann, I, 39, 169Strauss, Johann, II, 40, 95,107, 169Strauss, Josef, 169Strauss, Richard, 40Summer Stage, 73, 124Swarovski, 91Swimming, 6Swiss Court (Schweizerhof),29–30, 171
  • 188. 180IndexHollmann Salon, 118iMas!, 119–120Indian Pavilion, 33, 118Indochine 21, 110, 118–119Kim Kocht Shop and Studio,119Kulinarium 7, 119KunstHausWien Café, 24Kunsthistorisches Museumcafé, 119Le Loft, 110, 119Lobo y Luna, 119Lusthaus, 97Meinl am Graben, 63Meirerei, 95Menagerie, 68Motto am Fluss, 120MQ Daily, 44Naschmarkt Deli, 33, 110,120Naturkost St. Josef, 120Nemi im Zweiten, 120Ofenloch, 1201070, 120Osteria Numero Uno, 110,120Österreicher, 13Oswald & Kalb, 120Palmenhaus, 31Pancho und Mas!, 73phil, 80, 86, 124, 129Plachutta, 120–121Ra’mien, 110, 121Ribs of Vienna, 110, 121Schweizerhaus, 99Shanghai Tan, 121Spezerei, 121Steirerek im Stadtpark, 110,121Strandgasthaus Birner, 101Umarfisch, 33, 110, 121Witwe Bolte, 110, 121Wrenkh, 110, 121–122Würstelstand, 65Zu den 2 Lieserl’n, 122Zu Ebener Erde und ErsteStock, 122Zum Martin Sepp, 103Zum Roten Elefanten, 122Zur Goldenen Glocke, 122Zwölf Apostelkeller, 110, 122Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom,110, 119, 129, 142,153–154Stralight Suiten Hotel amHeumarkt, 154Strand Hotel Alte Donau,142, 154Zipser, 154Zur Wiener Staatsoper, 154RestaurantsAlte Backstube, 116American Bar, 35, 172Amerlingbeisl, 116Augustinekeller, 55, 116Böhle, 88Bortolotti, 110, 116Bräunerhof, 116Café Central, 71, 72Café Cuadro, 116Café der Provinz, 116Café Dreschler, 110,116–117Café Frauenhuber, 38Café Landtmann, 60Café Leopold, 117Café Meirerei Volksgarten,117Café Mozart, 51Café Museum, 16Cafe-Restaurant Corbaci, 76Café Sacher, 110, 117Café Sperl, 4, 110, 117Charlie P’s, 73Comida, 129Demel, 28Die Wäscherei, 117Dock 5, 117Dschungel Wien Café, 44Echo der City Thai, 73Ella’s, 47Fabios, 117Figlmüller, 4, 10, 110Fratelli, 117–118Gloriette, 108Gösser Bierklinik, 118Griechenbeisl, 41Gulaschmuseum, 118Halle, 76Hans Maly, 103Hawelka, 110, 118AccommodationsAlma, 148Altstadt, 142, 148Ambassador, 148Arcotel Kaisserwasser, 148Bristol, 51, 149City Central, 149Das Triest, 142, 149Das Tyrol, 149Deutschemeister, 149Do & Co, 142, 149Domizil, 149–150Drei Kronen, 150Falkensteiner Hotel amSchottenfeld, 150Franz, 150Graben, 150Haas Haus, 63Hilton Vienna Danube, 150Hollman Beletage, 142, 150Hotel am Opernring, 151Hotel am Stephansplatz,142, 151Hotel de France, 151Hotel Europa Wilen, 151Imperial, 51, 142, 151Kaiserin Elisabeth, 151Kärtnerhof, 151K+K Maria Theresia, 151König von Ungarn, 151Kuchlmasterei, 142,151–152Kugel, 152Lassalle, 142, 152Le Méridien, 142, 152The Levante Parliament, 152Mailbergerhof, 152Mercure Wien Zentrum, 152Nossek, 152Palais Coburg Residenz, 142,152Pertschy, 152Rathaus Wein & Design, 142,152–153Regina, 153The Ring, 142, 153Roomz, 142, 153Sacher, 51, 142, 153Schloss Wilhelminenberg,142, 153
  • 189. 181PhotoCreditsPhoto CreditsFront cover (L-R): © Shutterstock; © Jon Arnold Images Ltd / Alamy; © FAN travelstock /Alamy.Back cover: © Elvele Images Ltd / Alamy.All interior images © Teresa Fisher, with the following exceptions:© Arcotel Kaisserwasser: p 148 bottom.© Daniella Beranek / Altstadt Vienna: p 148 top.© Hollmannn Beletage: p 150.© Kian Lovett: p 17 top, p 109, p 119, p 123, p 155.© LOOK Die Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH / Alamy: p 131.© Petr Blaha / Hotel Wein & Design: p 141, p 153.© Rob Crandall / Alamy: p 12.© Strandhotel: p 154 bottom.© Victoria Schaffer / Hotel Das Triest: p 149.
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