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  1. 1. Parise guidethe travel guide with its own websitealways up-to-date d what’s happening
  2. 2. style • In the know • OnlineParisguidee
  3. 3. Produced byDeparture LoungeContributorsMaryanne Blacker, Rosa Jackson, Katherine Spenley, Julie Street, Richard WoodruffPhotographerBritta JaschinskiReproduced in Singapore by ColourscanPrinted and bound in Singapore by Tien Wah PressFirst published in Great Britain in 2005by Dorling Kindersley Limited80 Strand, London WC2R 0RLCopyright © 2005, 2006 Dorling Kindersley Limited, LondonA Penguin CompanyReprinted with revisions 2006All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in aretrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior writtenpermission of the copyright owner.A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.ISBN 13: 978 1 40531 398 8ISBN 10: 1 4053 1398 6The information in this e>>guide is checked annually.This guide is supported by a dedicated website which provides the very latest information for visitors toParis; please see pages 6–7 for the web address and password. Some information, however, is liable tochange, and the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of thisbook, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in thisbook will be a suitable source of travel information.We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
  4. 4. ContentsThe Website >> Your Password 6Top Choices 8The Year / Morning / AfternoonEvening / NightRestaurants 20Shopping 56Art & Architecture 92Performance 114Bars & Clubs 128Streetlife 152Havens 160Hotels 168Street Finder 182Index by Area 208Index by Type 218Travel Information 228Practical Information 230General Index 232
  5. 5. listingsrevi6One book to take…visit for theStay ahead of the crowd with edguideParis, and find the best places to eat,shop, drink and chill out at a glance.Packed with great ideas, incisive reviewsand stylish photographs, it’s the guidefor those who want to experience thereal soul and pace of the city. With itsown dedicated website, this is the onlyguidebook that’s always up-to-date.• Find a romantic restaurant for a specialoccasion, or a typical Parisian bistro• Explore markets, cafés and bars inParis’s coolest neighbourhoods• Discover the city’s nightlife, from localbars to the latest clubs• Shop till you drop at the very best ofParis’s clothes stores and boutiques
  6. 6. what’s newews7Click onto forthe latest news from and about placeslisted in the guide, plus readers’reviews and chat, features on hot topics,and up-to-the-minute short lists ofParis’s most useful service providers.The website is regularly updated,so every time you visit you bring yourguidebook up-to-date.…one website to visitWhen you click on Log in on thehome page of the website, a log-inbox will appear. Enter your user IDand password (see right).The password will be valid for aminimum of 12 months from thedate you purchased this guide.How to log in• Tap into what’s on at the theatreand who’s in at the galleries, and bookyour tickets online• Look up restaurants by name, by type andby area, and check the latest reviews• Link directly to all the websites in thebook, and many more• Have your say about places in the book,and recommend your favouritesyour password is: paris93581your user ID is: parislatest on what’s happening nowUser ID:Password:parisparis93581
  7. 7. top choicesParis is a perennially exciting city.Whatever your interests – dining infine restaurants or local bistros,exploring cultural attractions orshopping in designer boutiques –it’s all on offer here. This guidetakes you to the city’s latest andbest, opening with the top choicesof what to do through the year and24/7. And here, to get you started,are Paris’s most unmissable sights:d Tour Eiffel (p110)d Musée du Louvre (p100)d Notre Dame (p110)d Arc de Triomphe (p103)d Sacré Cœur (p107)d Musée d’Orsay (p100)d Champs-Elysées (p103)d Centre Pompidou (p100)d Ste-Chapelle (p94)d Cimetière du Père-Lachaise (p109)
  8. 8. 10Foire du TrônePelouse de Reuilly, 12ème • q Liberté/Porte Dorée/Porte deCharenton Open 11:45am–11pm daily (to 1am Fri & Sat)This colossal fun fair began in AD 957, when merchantsfirst met up with farmers to trade grain and wine. Todayat this site to the east of the city, instead of wheat sacksand wine barrels, there are 350 attractions, including agiant Ferris wheel, gravity-defying rides and carousels,and clouds of candy floss. End Mar–end MayPortes OuvertesAteliers d’Artistes de Belleville (AAB), 32 rue de la Mare,20ème; www.ateliers-artistes-belleville.orgThere’s more to the Paris art scene than majestic muse-ums and pricey private galleries, as the annual BellevilleArtists Open Studios confirms. For four days, more than250 artists in this multi-ethnic quartier (Map 12 F2) opentheir doors to the public. Pick up a map from the AABand set about discovering the neighbourhood’s cornu-copia of painters, photographers and jewellers, alongwith the bistros, funky cafés and shops. Mid-MaySummer Music FestivalsFestival de St-Denis, 01 49 33 66 66,;Paris Jazz Festival & Festival Classique au Vert, esplanade duChâteau de Vincennes, 12ème • q Chateau de Vincennes;Fête de la Musique, www.fetedelamusique.culture.frThroughout the summer, Paris is alive with the sound ofall kinds of music. St-Denis’ Gothic basilica (see p108) isthe glorious backdrop to a month-long classical- andworld-music festival starting in June. Inside the building,renowned performers belt out Brahms or Beethoven,and jazz, world, urban and folk music also reverberateboth inside and out. At the same time, as part of theParis Jazz Festival (Jun–Jul), both big-name and experi-mental jazz artists strike up in the Bois de Vincennes ina series of open-air afternoon concerts. Noise-pollutionlaws are in abeyance at the Fête de la Musique’s all-dayand all-night extravaganza on 21 June. The summer sol-stice is fêted by apprecia-tive crowds as interna-tional and world-musicacts, serious profession-als, one-man bands andmusical wannabes playtheir kind of music invaried locations all overthe city. To round off thesummer, classical musicwafts over the lawns ofthe Bois de Vincennesduring the FestivalClassique au Vert (Aug–Sep). Jun–SepCelebration is a year-round affair in Paris, with the French ever ready for aparty.The Champs-Elysées is packed with happy revellers on New YearsEve as people congregate to ring out the old and ring in the new. Theannual Fête de la Musique kicks off summer on 21 June, when both sea-soned and amateur performers take to the streets.Then come outdoor jazzand classical music festivals, and dance and theatre performances. Andnext, because it’s summer, a sandy beach materializes beside the Seine. Inmid-July, the Champs-Elysées is swamped again during the Bastille Dayparade and the climax of the Tour de France. Finally, in early October Parisofficially becomes the city that never sleeps as museums, swimming poolsand clubs stay open all night for La Nuit Blanche.Find out what’s on at any time with CHOICES – the yearLa Fête des TuileriesJardin des Tuileries, 1erOpen 11am–midnight daily (to 1am Fri & Sat)After the spring Foire du Trône, a similar array of ridesand attractions springs up around the rue de Rivoli bound-ary of the Jardin des Tuileries (Map 9 D4). Aug–Sep
  9. 9. 11La Marche des Fiertés LGBT (Gay Pride)www.fiertes-lgbt.orgThis vivacious and flamboyant celebration of gay, lesbian,bi- and transsexual culture attracts around 650,000onlookers and performers. A week of exhibitions, eventsand parties climaxes in the parade, which kicks off at2pm and dances its way to place de la Bastille. It’sfabulous fun, but the underlying message of tolerance,education and equality is serious. End JunLe Quatorze Juillet (Bastille Day)France’s national holiday recalls the storming of theBastille in 1789 and the beginning of the republic. By10am, hordes pack the Champs-Elysées for a glimpse ofFrench military might and the president reviewing thetroops. Later that night, thousands gather under the TourEiffel to watch the fireworks at Trocadéro, as others headoff for more partying at the bals des pompiers (firemen’sballs) held in stations all over the city. Some of thesekick off the previous night, when Parisians can alsodance their heart out on place de la Bastille. 14 JulLe Tour de FranceSee the action at www.letour.frThe world’s best road cyclists descend on Paris eachyear for the final stage of the Tour de France. Riders looppast place de la Bastille before completing nine lapsaround the Champs-Elysées, place de la Concorde andrue de Rivoli, including a final sprint up the ChampsElysées to the finish line. End JulFestival d’Automne01 53 45 17 00, www.festival-automne.comParisians are jolted out of their summer slumber withthe arrival of this forward-looking, city-wide arts festival,showcasing new talent from around the world. It’s allabout music, opera, theatre and dance not previouslyshown in France; the kind of productions that make yousit up and pay attention. Sep–DecJazz à la • q Porte de PantinLa Villette’s annual week-long jazz festival spills out intothe Cité de la Musique (see p108), local bars and thepark (scene of free open-air concerts). There’s a penchantfor innovative and experimental music, with appearancesby big names such as Herbie Hancock, as well as a hostof local favourites such as Baptiste Trotignon. SepLa Nuit BlancheCheck out all the activities at brainchild of Mayor Delanoë, “Sleepless Night” isdesigned to keep Parisians up all night with a heftydose of culture. And, it’s all free, from nocturnal swim-ming sessions and a 3am art crawl through the CentrePompidou, to techno concerts. A must for the culturallycurious, night owls and insomniacs. Early OctParis sur GlacePlace Hôtel de Ville, 4ème; place Raoul Dautry, 15èmeBoth open noon–10pm Mon–Thu, noon–midnight Fri,9am–midnight Sat, 9am–10pm SunIt might not be a frozen lake in the Alps, but in thedepth of winter, an open-air Paris ice rink can be equallyenchanting. Two rinks are open to the public free ofcharge – the one in front of the grandiose Hôtel de Villeis the largest and perhaps the prettiest, ringed with firtrees and twinkling lights when night falls. Skates areavailable for hire. Early Dec–early MarLe Réveillon (New Year’s Eve)While some Parisians prefer to spend their Réveillon (orFête de St-Sylvestre) sitting around the table suppingoysters and reminiscing, more spirited folk take to thestreets. Crowds throng the Champs-Elysées, barsaround Bastille teem and the Quartier Latin is alivewith people throwing their arms around each otherand screeching “Bonne année!”. 31 DecAUTUMNWINTERFor listings magazines with information on events and programmes in Paris, see p230
  10. 10. 12Traditional MarketsMarkets, a centuries-old Parisian feature, offer endlessvariety – from fat Provençal cherries in spring to hairyboars’ heads in autumn. There are over 80 in the city,including roving morning markets such as the MarchéIéna-President Wilson (Wed & Sun, Map 8 E3). Moststart around 8am. Some, such as rue Mouffetard in the5th (Tue–Sun, Map 20 H1), are all-day, open-air affairs,while others, such as the Marché Enfants Rouge (Map11 C4), are covered. The daily flower market on the Ilede la Cité (Map 16 H1) turns into a squawking bird mar-ket on Sundays and is definitely worth a visit. At all day-long markets, the pace is more leisurely in the mornings.and watch the city wake up over a coffee and a croissant.Alternatively, begin any weekday morning in plenty ofstyle with breakfast atMarket, chef Jean-GeorgesVongerichten’s fashionablerestaurant (see p40). Theofferings by master pastrychef Pierre Hermé that aresold here – including hisfamous flavoured maca-roons – are nothing shortof life-enhancing.Wheely FunFor information on bike hire, see p229Shoot along the banks of the Seine on Rollerblades or abike on Sundays (or every day from mid-Jul to mid-Aug),when the riverside expressways are closed to traffic.Glide from the Tour Eiffel down to the Musée dOrsay onthe Left Bank, and from the Tuileries to Bercy on theRight Bank. Alternatively, the roads and tracks of the vastand pleasant Bois de Boulogne are perfect for pedallingor skating – by afternoon, however, the crowds descend.Quiet MuseumsSee to check the national museums in ParisA museum city par excellence, Paris is blessed withboth blockbusting temporary exhibitions and stunningpermanent collections. To beat the crowds, arrive early.Note that national treasures such as the Louvre, theMusée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou are free onthe first Sunday of each month.Parisians, in general, are not morning people.The city takes its time towake up; so much so that early risers will often find that they have thestreets virtually to themselves.Then, suddenly, its frantic: shop and kioskshutters rattle open, delivery vans unload, Métro stations pour forth com-muters, cyclists and pedestrians dart through traffic, risking life and limb,and café counters fill and empty with alarming speed. One of the great joysis just to sit back and watch the scene unfold. But whatever your plans,mornings in Paris are worth getting up for.The major museums are lesscrowded and, at the other end of the cultural spectrum, there are themorning markets. No two are alike, and each stall has something tempting– from stacks of oozing cheeses to buckets of olives and piles of saucisson.Check for changes in opening hours at CHOICES – morningBest BreakfastsCafé Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli, 1er, 01 49 26 06 60;Market, 15 avenue Matignon, 8ème, 01 56 43 40 90Kick-start the day at the Café Marly (which opens at8am) with a strong espresso and an uncluttered bird’s-eye view of the Louvre’s iconic glass pyramid before thecrowds arrive. Or, pull up a chair at one of the cafés onrue Montorgueil (Map 10 H3) or rue de Buci (Map 16 F2)
  11. 11. 13Morning CinemaFor more on Left Bank art-house cinemas, see p120When the day dawns grey and cold or the rain begins tofall, slip into a cinema and cosy up with a good film.Chains such as the independent MK2 and the multi-national UGC offer a reduced tariff for the first morningsession. Look for version originale (VO) of foreign filmsif you don’t want to suffer French-dubbed renderings.Free Fashion ShowsNo matter if you weren’t on the invitation list for theParis fashion shows. The Galeries Lafayette (Map 9 D1)parades the latest looks in a weekly 30-minute freefashion show (11am Tue). Get there when the storeopens at 9:30am and admire the imposing glass domeand Art Nouveau staircase in relative calm before givingyour credit card a thorough retail work-out.Beauty TreatmentsFor more on beauty, see pp162–7Beauty salons are brimful on Saturday mornings; that’swhen serious working girls book their facials, manicuresand top-to-toe treatments. Join them to experience thebuzz, or opt for a leisurely weekday morning at a snazzysalon with the ladies-who-lunch set, and sit back andenjoy the cosseting.Sunbathing and SwimmingPiscine Butte-aux-Cailles, 5 place Paul Verlaine, 13ème,01 45 89 60 05Come mid-July, the Seine goes seaside for a month aspalm trees, deck chairs, umbrellas, hammocks and vastamounts of sand appear along a 3-km (2-mile) stretch ofthe Right Bank, opposite Notre Dame. Every summer, acouple of million people visit, so get there early if youwant some space to soak up the sun. There’s even aswimming pool. Serious swimmers may prefer thevintage Piscine Butte-aux-Cailles (Map 21 A5), with itsoutdoor pools fed by artesian wells. A morning dip hereis downright civilized.Auction ActionDrouot Richelieu, 9 rue Drouot, 9ème, 01 48 00 20 20,www.gazette-drouot.comThere’s nothing quite like an auction to get the bloodpumping, and Drouot Richelieu (Map 4 F5) holds salesMon–Sat in 16 different salesrooms – enough to sate abig bidding appetite. If you just like to look, auctionitems go on view from 11am the day before. Expecteverything from Louis XV chairs to works by Matisse.Cookery CoursesEcole Ritz Escoffier, 38 rue Cambon, 1er, 01 43 16 30 50,; Promenades Gourmandes, 187 rue du Temple,3ème, 01 48 04 56 84, www.promenadesgourmandes.comAcquire a souvenir of French cuisine that lasts longerthan a wheel of Camembert – expertise! Cookeryclasses with chef Paule Caillat at PromenadesGourmandes (Map 11 C3) run 9am–3pm and include amarket tour, a hands-on class and a three-course lunch.Alternatively, the illustrious Hotel Ritz’s Ecole Escoffier(Map 9 D2) holds Saturday morning introductory work-shops, focusing on seasonal produce (9am–1pm).Hot TicketsPlace de la Madeleine, 8ème (Map 9 C2);Gare Montparnasse, 14ème (Map 19 B1)Buy last-minute, cut-price theatre tickets for same-dayshows from one of Paris’s two Kiosque Théâtres (opendaily). Savvy Parisian show-goers often choose thisoption, as French theatres and some concert halls havecomplicated booking systems – requests for ticketssometimes have to be put in writing months in advance.
  12. 12. 14HammamLes Bains du Marais, 31–33 rue des Blancs Manteaux, 4ème,01 44 61 02 02, www.lesbainsdumarais.comBefore a night of bar-hopping, unwind at a single-sexsession in the Hammam at the Mosquée de Paris(see p164) or, at the more chic Les Bains du Marais(Map 11 B5). At both spots, the entry fee (5€ at theformer, 30€ at the latter) buys you hammam (Turkishbath), sauna and lounging-room access and a feeling ofhaving slipped into the pages of 1,001 Arabian Nights;massages, gommages (scrubs) and facials are extra.BrocantesThe appearance of fluttering street banners announcesthe onset of the season of antiquitiés-brocantes (bric-a-brac and antiques fairs). From Apr to May and Sep to Oct,dealers peddling country furniture, silverware, jewellery,linen, books and prints invade local streets and squares.Many sellers travel in from the provinces, and prices areoften lower than those at the permanent city antiquesmarkets. The weekly La Vie du Collectioneur (publishedevery Thursday) lists brocantes all over France.Stroll around any Paris park in the afternoon and you’ll find you’re notalone. Afternoon promenades, particularly following the customary, longSunday lunch, are de rigueur, and the wide-open, well-manicured publicspaces are the place to be. Boules players, with furrowed brows andflicking wrists, take over the dusty paths, and tittering children line up forweekend puppet shows. In the afternoon, too, shopping areas are alwaysbuzzy, especially on Saturdays; and, at the smallest hint of sunshine, thecobblestoned quays of the Seine are awash with sunbathers and picnick-ers. Between lunch and the apéritif is also prime time for visiting private artgalleries. Alternatively, Paris is a rewarding city to explore on foot, and anafternoon amble through the streets reveals myriad riches, from impressivearchitecture to inviting cafés.Look out for upcoming antiques fairs on CHOICES – afternoonSunday LunchLa Guinguette de l’Ile du Martin Pecheur, 41 quai Victor HugoChampigny-sur-Marne, 01 49 83 03 02, www.guinguette.frSunday lunch doesn’t get much more quintessentiallyFrench than at La Guinguette de l’Ile du Martin Pecheur(just 20 minutes from central Paris on RER line A2),where they serve chanson with the entrecôte à laBordelaise (Mar–Sep). Lazing at long tables (in the openair, weather permitting) beside the river Marne, enjoyinga singalong – it’s a scene straight out of a Renoir painting.Resolute foodies seeking a three-star bite on Sundayare, however, limited to lofty hotel establishments –haute-cuisine restaurants are all closed on Sundays.PicnicsFor other recommendations for food to go, see p38The tastiest of titbits, from earthy terrines and exquisitepatisseries to fragrant strawberries and cold champagne,can be found at the gourmet emporia Hediard orFauchon (both are located on place de la Madeleine,Map 9 C2) or La Grande Epicerie de Paris (see p80).Then, settle on a bench by the Seine on the Ile de laCité, or alternatively,déjeune sur l’herbe (picnic)in place des Vosges (Map17 C1). Sadly, the temptingexpanses of unspoiledlawn in the Jardin duLuxembourg or theTuileries are strictly“pelouse interdit” – keepoff the grass – domains.
  13. 13. 15TeaFor more suggestions on salons de thé, see p55Take tea at Ladurée (see p55), famed for the richest andthickest hot chocolate around and addictive macaroons.Alternatively, try a more exotic milieu and sample stickybaklava and mint tea in Le Ziryab, the restaurant withthe Seine-side view on the top floor of the Institut duMonde Arabe (see p98); or at funky Andy Wahloo (seep137), where pop art meets Morocco. Or, just aboutevery place on boulevard de Belleville (see p159) servesup palate-cleansing fresh mint tea.Architectural TreasuresPassage de Retz, 9 rue Charlot, 3ème, 01 48 04 37 99; Pavillonde l’Arsenal, 21 boulevard Morland, 4ème, 01 42 76 33 97Much of the cityscape was created between the 17thand 19th centuries, but you can also pay homage tosome modern masters of architectural design. LeCorbusier’s genius is on display at Villa La Roche (seep105); and the 60s avant-garde French Communist PartyHQ (2 place Colonel Fabien, 19ème, Map 6 E4) is thework of one of his contemporaries, Brazilian architectOscar Niemeyer. Paris’s first skyscraper – just 22 storeyshigh – was designed by Edouard Albert in the 50s, andis found at 33 rue de Croulebarbe in the 13th (Map 21A3). If you’ve a head for heights, whizz up to the top ofthe colossal Grande Arche de la Défense – one of ex-President Mitterand’s Grands Projets – for spectacularviews. A visit to the Pavillon de l’Arsenal (Map 17 C3),the museum dedicated to architecture and urban design,will then help explain what you’ve just surveyed. Winddown in the Passage de Retz, a former toy factory turnedart gallery. This 17th-century hôtel particulier with a mod-ern twist also features a boutique and café by the muchsought-after designer Christian Blecher (Map 11 C4).GamesStop off at the Jardins des Luxembourg (Map 16 E4) fora spot of cerebral jousting with the chess devotees whohuddle around board-topped tables and do battle through-out the afternoon. You can either watch or join thequeue to play. Serious card-players also occupy a tableor two. If you prefer a spot of pétanque, try the Arènesde Lutèce (see p98). The other players might let youjoin in, otherwise, bring your own set and some friends.Gallery-HoppingLa Maison Rouge, 10 boulevard de la Bastille, 12ème,01 40 01 08 81, www.lamaisonrouge.orgSt-Germain, with its maze of commercial art galleries,particularly along rue de Seine, rue des Beaux Arts andrue de Guénégaud, is the ultimate for an urbane after-noon wander. Artistic pickings on the Right Bank,though, can be a little more edgy; explore the art squatLes Frigos (see p112) and La Maison Rouge (Map 17D4), a former factory specializing in exhibitions of con-temporary art from private collections.ShoppingFor more on shopping in Paris, see pp56–91Go with the flow and shop, shop, shop in the 6th and7th arrondissements, where the fashion choice is sec-ond to none. Rue de Grenelle is the magic mile ofdesigner shoes, with clothes to match. Rue du ChercheMidi also does a fine line in shoes, bags and bread –the famed Poilâne bakery is here – while rue desSts-Pères is the place to stock up on sexy lingerie andglamorous outfits. Also, trawl rue du Bac, rue du Dragon,rue St-Sulpice and rue du Four before collapsing in ahappy heap encircled by shopping bags.From June through September, the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes stages afternoon concerts (see p10)
  14. 14. 16Salons SceneJim Haynes, 01 43 27 17 67,;Patricia Laplante-Collins, 01 43 26 12 88, parissoirees@noos.frEmulate Gertrude Stein at a salon, a kind of intellectualopen-house. Maverick academic and philosopher JimHaynes’s Sunday evening gatherings are legendary.Up to 50 people who call ahead are invited to his homeand a mix of ages, nationalities and professions isalways on the cards – as well as good food and wine.Patricia Laplante-Collins’s Paris Connections nights, alsoheld on Sundays, are similarly full of interesting typesand excellent food; each week has a different speakerand theme – such as tips on writing screenplays, or anintroduction to shamanism. Book in advance.Views over the CapitalAeroparis balloon operates summer to 9:30pm,winter to 5:30pm, 01 44 26 20 00, www.aeroparis.comTake an unofficial tour of the City of Lights. When thestreetlights are switched on, it’s a thrill to stand on theopen platform at the back of the No. 29 bus and checkout the sights from the Gare St-Lazare via the Marais toBastille. Alternatively, for another great view of Paris atdusk, take the last trip up in the tethered balloon at theParc Andre Citroën (see p167).Pre-Dinner DrinksLes Apéros de Jeudis,; Apollo, 3 placeDenfert-Rochereau 14ème, 01 45 38 76 77; Hotel Raphael, 17avenue Kléber 16ème, 01 53 64 32 00, www.raphael-hotel.comTo relax after a long day, grab a table at your favouritecafé around 7pm and enjoy a glass of champagne or a kir.(Parisians consider Pastisto be a drink for old men inthe South of France.) If it’ssunny, stake out your terri-tory on a terrace and catchthe last rays along withyour tipple. Trendy bar-restaurant Apollo is ideal,but Paris’s chicest summercocktail spot is the stun-ning rooftop terrace at theHotel Raphael. In less accommodating weather, try LeFumoir (see p132), Kong (see p134) or Pershing Hall (seep178). Or, every Thursday evening during summer, jointhe crowd at Les Apéros de Jeudi, when Parisians gatherin different open-air locations to meet over apéritifs.Open LecturesFor forthcoming events, see www.louvre.frPublic lectures at the Louvre are an erudite way toexpand your mind. They start at 7 or 8:30pm, are held inAt 7pm, the city’s tone shifts noticeably as people escape from the work-place and prepare to get on with the business of enjoying themselves.Given the emphasis the French place on eating, it comes as no surprise thatapéritif time is filled with anticipation. Parisians head to their local bar orcafé in droves as a prelude to dinner, or to wind up before a big night out.Midweek is a popular time for locals to hit town, be it to dance the nightaway or take in the season’s must-see show, so on Wednesdays andThursdays, in particular, the atmosphere is charged with excitement. Andclubbers who cant wait till late are well-catered for: the latest nightlifecraze is for “after-work” clubs, which allow people to go straight fromoffice to club and start – rather than end – their evenings with a boogie.Keep track of openings and closures at CHOICES – evening
  15. 15. 17French and are usually linked to current exhibitions. Tomake the most of it, visit the show before attending thelecture – and bring a dictionary. The atmosphere, whileintellectual, is inclusive, and the speakers seemgenuinely keen to share their insight with Joe Public.ClubbingFor further details, check,, Seven 2 One, 161 rue Montmartre, 2èmeEarly evening clubs (l’after work in French), catering tothose who just can’t wait to get a little bit of dance-flooraction, are currently hugely popular in Paris. Seven 2One, which kicks off at apéritif time on Wednesdaysand Thursdays, is the largest; while Work in Ze City clubnights (Thursdays) start a little later at 8pm and takeplace at various more upscale venues, such as theEtoile club, with a clientele to match.Shopping for LoveFor a singles scene with a difference, head to GaleriesLafayette’s (see p83) singles’ supermarket night (Thu),where you can pick up some gastronomic treats andperhaps a Parisian soulmate. Locals on the lookoutchoose a special purple basket to signal their singlestatus. If it all seems too overwhelming, there’s anexcellent in-store wine bar to help break the ice.Modern SoiréesReservations on 01 42 18 56 72The Fondation Cartier (see p113) hosts Soirées Nomades(Nomadic Evenings) for cool, arty types. These exceed-ingly hip events encompass anything that can be vaguelydescribed as “the arts”, from avant-garde electric-harpmusic to circus performances, storytelling evenings andbrass-band jam sessions. The programme is nothing ifnot eclectic. If you have time, get there early to checkout the building and the current exhibition before thesoirée begins. It’s essential to reserve ahead.A Romantic SunsetThe Pont des Arts (Map 10 F5) is one of Paris’s prettiestbridges, and certainly one of the most romantic. Theviews across the city are stunning, and couples clutch-ing bottles of champagne and the makings of a picnichead here in droves. Note, though, that it’s also whereboisterous foreign exchange students and buskingtravellers with questionable musical talents hang out.It may be a little sentimental, but watching the sun setover the city from this vantage point is a real pleasure.Early DinnerBe one of the lucky few and reserve an early table atL’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (see p37). The hugely populargourmet restaurant run by the eponymous superstar chefonly takes bookings for 6:30 or 11:30pm; anyone wishingto eat at a more usual hour has to turn up and queue.Outside. Even if it’s raining. So it’s a great idea to skiplunch and arrive early for a chance to try Robuchon’sexquisite – if pricey – food. Seating is arranged in a longbar formation so expect to sit alongside your companionand don’t be shy about talking to your neighbour.Come DancingFrom June to October, usually on Sundays, people flockto dance on the banks of the Seine. In the earlyevening, the square Tino Rossi (Map 17 C4) – the site ofan open-air sculpture park – comes alive with rhythmjunkies doing the rumba, executing a mean tango andsamba-ing as if their lives depended on it. Some of thedancers here are awe-inspiring, most are fairly averageand absolute beginners are welcome too. All that’srequired is a little enthusiasm and a large grin.
  16. 16. 18BaladesFor further details, check Friday nights, police close off boulevards aroundthe city to offer thousands of skaters a nocturnaladrenalin rush. The event starts at 10pm outside GareMontparnasse (Map 19 B1), but beginners can turn upfor free tuition (8–9pm). In order to join in the fun, youmust be experienced enough to know how to stop! Inorder to reduce the spills, the parade is cancelled in wetweather. If you need to hire roller blades, check out thewebsite for useful addresses.Late-Night FoodMany restaurants across the city serve until 11pm butone of the best options for a late meal is to indulge in aspecial late menu, offered after 10:30pm, at brasseriessuch as La Coupole (see p218). Two courses of classicbrasserie fare (see p29), a quarter bottle of wine and aterrific atmosphere will set you back a little over 20€.If hunger strikes in the early hours of the morning,head for Au Pied du Cochon (see p24) or La Tour deMontlhéry, aka Chez Denise (see p25), where you canorder anything, from a bowl of onion soup to a fullthree-course meal – even at 5am.Art AppreciationCatch an exhibition at the devastatingly cool Palais deToyko (see p104), which is open until midnight. Theshows are invariably interesting, offbeat and a hit withParis’s bright young things, who wander around thewarehouse-like space as much to be seen as to beinspired. The shop has become a destination in itself andTokyo Eat, the on-site restaurant, is currently one of thecity’s hippest places to go for a meal. Don’t miss a tripto the toilets-for-two and take advantage of the humanjuke-box concept – the waiter presents you with amenu of songs that the DJ will work into his playlist.Hitting the ShopsElyfleur, 82 avenue Wagram, 17ème, 01 47 66 87 19;Pavillon Noura, 21 avenue Marceau, 16ème, 01 47 20 33 33Most of the city’s shops and stores close at 7pm, butuntil midnight (and sometimes even later) on theChamps-Elysées you can stock up on magazines atThe twinkling Tour Eiffel is an appropriate metaphor for a night out in Paris:frivolous, fun and rather beautiful. Residents of the City of Lights reallycome to life after dark.The city looks stunning and, more often than not, itsinhabitants dress up accordingly. Night-time pursuits are taken veryseriously.There’s even a cultural all-nighter – La Nuit Blanche (see p11) –organized each year by the Mairie (city council).Year-round, a surprisingarray of high- and low-brow cultural attractions vies for your attention,ranging from late-opening exhibitions to mass roller-blading events, back-to-back film shows and wild club nights. Wherever you end up, take a cabhome – a drive along the expressways on the banks of the Seine or aroundthe place de la Concorde in the early hours is not to be missed.Stay in touch with late-night Paris through CHOICES – night
  17. 17. 19Publicis Drugstore (see p83); music and videos at VirginMegastore (see p223); and general supermarket provi-sions and beauty products at Monoprix (see p220). It’seven possible to get a free makeover at Sephora (seep220) – perfect for a pre-club transformation. Nearby,pick up delicious Lebanese titbits at Pavillon Noura andflowers at 24-hour Elyfleur. Over in the Marais, books andwine are on offer at La Belle Hortense (see p139).Exotic PleasuresLes Jardins d’Alexandrie, 28 rue Marbeuf, 8ème, 01 42 25 14 48;Café Egyptien, 112 rue Mouffetard, 5ème, 01 43 31 11 35Hook up with a hookah and smoke some shisha at anauthentic Arabian spot. Les Jardins d’Alexandrie offersup-market lounging as you listen to Arabic music anddrag on sweet tobacco in between sips of mint tea. Italso serves delicious food. Over on the Left Bank, CaféEgyptien is a more laid-back affair, and while the decormay be simple the shisha menu is extensive, and noteven remotely expensive for the excellent quality. Bothvenues stay open until around 2am.Dancing the Night AwayCheck, and for special club nights and one-off events;Latina Café, 114 avenue Champs-Elysées, 8ème, 01 42 89 98 89From up-market boîtes, to totally unpretentious – ifsomewhat seedy – haunts, Paris has every aspect ofthe clubbing scene covered. Those chasing the latestbig thing should check the listings for any night run byparty collective La Johnson. Current darlings of theclubbing set, they specialize in running very cool partiesin distinctly uncool clubs such as La Scala and ClubMadeleine Plaza. Alternatively, hit perennial favouritessuch as Le Queen (see p145), Le Cab (see p132), LeSee pp132–51 for our pick of Parisian clubsRex (see p135) and Batofar (see p151). Latino loversshould join a salsa session at the Latina Café (opendaily), but if you prefer a little more of a multimediaapproach, head to alternative club space Project 101(see p147).Cinematic All-NightersCinemas, in particular those on the Left Bank (seep120), often run special directors’ retrospectives atwhich three films are shown back-to-back starting atmidnight on Saturday. Breakfast is included for thesurvivors. If an all-nighter is too much, several movietheatres run special midnight showings of headliningfilms (also on Saturday nights). Check listings maga-zines such as Pariscope for details.Late BarsChao Ba, 22 boulevard Clichy, 18ème, 01 46 06 72 90The city is full of places to suit drinkers who prefer tostart late and end early, and this after-2am crowd tendsto be more relaxed and friendly than cocktail Cinderellaswho start at a reasonable hour. Fortunately, late barsdon’t charge entry. Unfortunately, drinks tend to bepricey. But when only an all-nighter will do, head to oneof these bars, which really get going after midnight: LeConnetable (see p137) is perfect for a très Frenchsession that often lasts until dawn; the Highlander pub(see p212) is open earlierbut is absolutely jammedafter hours; Le Bar (seep135) is a quiet place for alate tipple; Le Crocodile(see p141) is a prime spotfor cocktails; and the ChaoBa is a rather classy drink-ing den in Pigalle.
  18. 18. restaurantsRestaurants alone are reasonenough to come to Paris, whetheryou’re seeking a slice of history, adash of panache or a pinch ofperfection. What sets French chefsapart is their mastery of technique,which has filtered down to a younggeneration of bistro chefs whosecreative cuisine highlights seasonalingredients. The current trend isfor “tapas” – elegant food servedin tiny portions.
  19. 19. 22 CHOICES – restaurantsMaison Blanche15 avenue Montaigne, 8èmePerched on top of the Théâtre desChamps Elysées, the dining roomoverlooks dusky rooftops and themeandering Seine. (See p40)Kastoori4 place Gustave Toudouze, 9èmeOf all the terraces in this part oftown, Kastoori’s is the most indemand – for its great-value lunchmenu and thalis. (See p44)Le Cristal Room11 place des Etats-Unis, 16èmeActually the Baccarat store’s in-house restaurant, this PhilippeStarck-designed dining room is astunning location for lunch. (See p40)Market15 avenue Matignon, 8èmeThe place to be during Fashion Week,Market always puts on a great break-fast, with goodies by star pâtissierPierre Hermé. (See p40)La Tour d’Argent15–17 quai de la Tournelle, 5èmeIn addition to a lofty gourmet repu-tation, this restaurant has amazingviews over the Seine. (See p33)Le Square Trousseau1 rue Antoine-Vollon, 12èmeThe early 20th-century dining roomis full of charm, and in summer thepavement tables of this popularbistro can’t be beaten. (See p52)Restaurant du Palais Royal110 galerie Valois, 1erWith tables in the Palais Royal gar-dens, this restaurant has an enviablesetting. Fortunately, the foodis equally fine. (See p24)DESIGNERGREAT VIEWSLe Vieux Bistro14 rue du Cloître Notre-Dame, 4èmeLike Notre Dame, its imposing nearneighbour, this bistro is a Parisianclassic. A table on the terraceguarantees relaxing views. (See p30)L’Iode48 rue dArgout, 2èmeThis Breton outpost serves beau-tifully fresh fish and seafood and hasoutside tables on a pleasant, traffic-free street. (See p26)Café Noir15 rue St-Blaise, 20èmeWell off the beaten track, in summerCafé Noir makes the most of thetranquil location on a pedestrianstreet with outside tables. (See p49)R’Aliment57 rue Charlot, 3èmeThe bright, modern interior ofthis Marais eatery cuts acreative dash; the healthydishes follow suit. (See p28)Au Bon Accueil14 rue de Montessuy, 7èmeThe terrace view can’t be beaten asthe Tour Eiffel soars to dizzyingheights just metres away. (See p38)ALFRESCO
  20. 20. 23TOP CHOICES – restaurantsThe city’s Chinatown, with its many cheap restaurants, is located in the 13th arrondissementVelly52 rue Lamartine, 9èmeA local bistro can be just the placefor a tête-à-tête. In this time-worndining room, the updated bistrofood is a sensual pleasure. (See p45)L’Ambroisie9 place des Vosges, 4èmePosh frocks and suave suitsare de rigueur at this elegantrestaurant, with its exquisite settingand luxury food. (See p29)Le Souk1 rue Keller, 11èmeLess extravagant than a trip toMorocco, Le Souk is just as exotic,with its spiced tagines, mood light-ing and attentive service. (See p51)Abazu3 rue André-Mazet, 6èmeFreshness is key at this Japaneserestaurant, where Parisians go tochill out and enjoy the theatricalteppanaki experience. (See p34)Fogon St-Julien10 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 5èmeFind first-class Spanish food at thisaddress near Notre Dame. Their sixdifferent paellas will have you stamp-ing your feet for more. (See p32)L’As du Fallafel34 rue des Rosiers, 4èmeThere are falafal joints galore on thisstreet, but few can match this one.“Often imitated, never equalled”,says the sign. (See p29)Chez Vong10 rue de la Grande Truanderie, 1erIn a city where convincing Chinesecuisine is all too rare, Chez Vong isa real find, with tasteful decor andstunning food. (See p25)Aux Lyonnais32 rue St-Marc, 2èmeThis traditional bistro with vintagedecor, charming service and fragrantLyonnais food will deliver a perfectParis moment. (See p25)Sardegna a Tavola1 rue de Cotte, 12èmeThis sunny Sardinian restaurant hasestablished itself as the best of itskind in Paris, thanks to the quality ofits ingredients and cooking. (See p52)LATE NIGHTROMANTIC GLOBALBrasseries are a good choice for alate dinner; most remain open untilmidnight or later.Au Pied de Cochon6 rue Coquillière, 1erDon’t be put off by the name – thisbuzzy round-the-clock spot doesserve pig’s feet, but there’s also lesschallenging fare on offer. (See p24)La Tour de Montlhéry5 rue des Prouvaires, 1erA remnant of Les Halles’ marketdays, this is a great spot for a vaststeak in the small hours. (See p25)
  21. 21. 249 C310 G4To find more of Paris’s thousands of eating-places, check out’Ardoise seasonal menus28 rue du Mont Thabor, 1er • 01 42 96 28 18Open lunch & dinner Tue–Fri, dinner only Sat & SunPierre Jay’s bistro is one of the few in Paris to open onSundays, but that’s only one reason to visit. Localoffice workers and Parisians in the know congregatehere for the great-value food, ranging from pig’strotters to pan-fried scallops with oyster mushrooms.Desserts are not their strong point though. ModerateL’Espadon luxury lunchingHôtel Ritz, 15 place Vendôme, 1er • 01 43 16 30 Open lunch & dinner dailyL’Espadon delivers everything you’d expect of the Ritz:sumptuous surroundings, smooth (and surprisinglyunsnooty) service and simply fabulous food. The lunchmenu (68€) is a bargain, entitling diners to a lavishfour-course feast, including a stunning cheese trolleyand coffee with mignardises (tiny cakes). ExpensiveAu Pied de Cochon former market eatery6 rue Coquillière, 1er • 01 40 13 77 Open 24/7The signature dish of humble grilled pig’s trotter withBéarnaise sauce is one to try at this jolly 24-hourbrasserie in the heart of Les Halles, the city’s formercentral food market. It’s great for a meal of onion soupand briny oysters, too, and gets lively after 2am, whentheatre folk and clubbers tend to drop by. ExpensiveRestaurant du Palais Royal real class110 galerie Valois, 1er • 01 40 20 00 27Open lunch & dinner Mon–SatIn summer, a table on the terrace here is hotly sought-after, so book ahead. In winter the jewel-toned diningroom is a treat, and the Mediterranean-inspired foodis consistently delicious. (The chef claims to make thebest risotto in Paris.) For dessert, try millefeuillesfilled with fruit and crème Chantilly. Moderate9 D210 F3Restaurants
  22. 22. 25Cheap: under 13€ for a main course; moderate: 13–20€; expensive: over 20€CentreLa Tour de Montlhéry late-night joint5 rue des Prouvaires, 1er • 01 42 36 21 82Open lunch & dinner dailyHearty food (mutton chops, stuffed cabbage) and anoisy, smoke-filled atmosphere are the order of theday at this round-the-clock haunt in Les Halles.Closely packed tables mean that there is often cross-table chat; luckily, the flowing wine helps makeconversation a breeze. ModerateCafé Moderne creative cuisine40 rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, 2ème • 01 53 40 84 10Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatAchieving a balance between hip and inviting isn’teasy, but Café Moderne proves that it can be done –and well. The cosy red banquettes accommodate acosmopolitan bunch who contentedly polish offdishes such as thyme-flavoured lamb in filo pastry,and squid filled with Parmesan. ModerateChez Vong flavourful Oriental10 rue de la Grande Truanderie, 1er • 01 40 26 09 Open lunch & dinner Mon–SatThose who despair of ever finding great Chinese foodin Paris are relieved to discover this discreet LesHalles restaurant. Among the plants and chinoiserie,discriminating diners savour authentic steamed fish,Peking duck and prawns in lotus leaf. Not cheap, butthe freshness and flavour justify the price. ModerateAux Lyonnais revitalized bistro32 rue St-Marc, 2ème • 01 42 96 65 04Open lunch & dinner Tue–Fri, dinner SatFrench super-chef Alain Ducasse has rejuvenated an1890s restaurant into a classic bistro complete withburnished red façade, zinc bar, tiles and majesticmirrors. This is updated regional food at its finest –sabodet (pork sausage), eggs poached in red wine,and irresistible Saint-Marcellin cheese. ModerateLe Meurice heavenly hotel diningHotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli, 1er • 01 44 58 10 50Open lunch & dinner dailyThe cloud-painted ceiling, gilt galore and cushy chairsput you in just the right relaxed frame of mind to appre-ciate the subtle tastes of Yannick Alleno’s understatedcreations. Try a lightly smoked salmon chunk wrappedin paper-thin crisp potato, John Dory dotted with cuminor the most delicate lemon meringue tart. Expensive9 D3 10 F210 G210 G410 H4
  23. 23. 26 Georges quintessential bistro1 rue du Mail, 2ème • 01 42 60 07 11Open lunch & dinner Mon–SatOn this quiet corner, the glorious old Paris bistro offilm and fiction is alive and well and full to the raftersevery night. Its success rides on the winning combina-tion of a worn but grand interior, maternal waitressesand good, honest food such as duck with ceps andplump profiteroles doused in chocolate. ModerateL’Iode piscatorial delights48 rue d’Argout, 2ème • 01 42 36 46 45Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner SatIn the busy shopping area of the 2ème, this cheerfulseafood stop sticks to a mantra of keeping thingssimple. Expect treats such as grilled sole or crispydeep-fried baby squid; nothing flashy or too fancy,just fresh produce, relaxed service and lots of locals,especially in the airy upstairs room. ModerateLe Petit Dakar African chic6 rue Elzévir, 3ème • 01 44 59 34 74Open lunch & dinner dailyThanks to its link with the shop opposite sellingAfrican art and objets, Le Petit Dakar would look rightat home on the pages of Marie Claire Maison. Its menuis limited to just a few reliably tasty Senegaleseclassics such as thieb’oudjen (fish stew) or maffé(meat in peanut sauce). CheapRue Ste-Anne noodle centralDemand from Japanese ex-pats has created many greatnoodle shops in the 10ème, particularly on rue Ste-Anne. Higuma (at No. 32bis), with an army of dextrouswok-handlers in the open kitchen, is a favourite. Try agiant bowl of ramen topped with grilled pork, rice withtempura, or yakisoba (stir-fried noodles). Nearby, LaïLaï Ken (at No. 7) is equally popular with a youngclientele who comes for more of the same. Cheap11 C510 E210 G310 G3Restaurants
  24. 24. 27If a restaurant is crawling with locals, you’re likely to be on to a good thingCentreL’Ambassade d’Auvergne hearty fare22 rue du Grenier St-Lazare, 3ème • 01 42 72 31 Open lunch & dinner dailyThis two-storey tavern with heavy oak beams anddangling hams has a well-earned reputation for servingup Auvergne on a plate. That means sturdy farmhousefood that’s perfect for an icy winter’s evening (ifslightly less appealing in the height of summer). Porkand cabbage are menu staples, from cabbage soupwith Roquefort cheese to braised pork with cabbageand white beans. Also on offer is the famed regionalSalers beef, as well as lamb and fish dishes. Thehighlight, however, has to be the aligot, a creamypotato and Tomme cheese mixture, delivered to thetable in a large copper dish, that is then teased intolong ribbons by deft waiters and served as a sidedish. Admittedly, you’ve got to be in the mood for anintense cholesterol hit. There’s also a great selectionof regional cheeses, and eau de vie (fruit-basedbrandy) to round things off. ModerateAnahï South American hideaway49 rue Volta, 3ème • 01 48 87 88 24Open dinner only dailySisters Carminia and Pilat brought a little bit of LatinAmerica to this old Parisian deli almost 20 years ago.Since then, they’ve converted a stylish crowd, includingthe occasional celeb, to the joys of Argentinian beef,Mexican stews and assorted South American titbits.The snug atmosphere is appealing, too. ModerateLes Enfants Rouges winning wine bar9 rue de Beauce, 3ème • 01 48 87 80 61Closed Sun & Mon; closed dinner Tue, Wed, & SatRun by the couple behind the legendary Montmartrebistro Le Moulin à Vins – now Café Burq (see p46) –this intimate wine bar guarantees a serious selectionof wines from both well-known and up-and-comingproducers. Also on the menu is simple but robustFrench grub and a festive atmosphere. Moderate11 A411 C411 B3
  25. 25. 2811 Petits Marseillais southern comfort72 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème • 01 42 78 91 59Open lunch & dinner dailyA trendy crowd frequents this lively bistro run by twofriends from Marseille – they’re the nice guys behindthe bar. Food has a southern bent: pasta with babysquid and saffron, duck with polenta and Parmesan.As quarters are close, getting into a conversation withyour neighbours is also on the menu. ModerateR’Aliment trendy organic quick bites57 rue Charlot, 3ème • 01 48 04 88 28Open lunch & dinner Tue–Sat, dinner only MonPlenty of colour in the decor makes this funky organic eatery popular witha young, design-conscious set. Soups, quiches and daily changing hotdishes – such as vegetable gratin with squash seeds, and fried grouperwith roasted potatoes – are prepared directly behind the bar, within viewof the customers and filling the room with wholesome smells. It’s a goodidea to bring a book or a friend as service can be slow. ModerateLe Potager du Marais vegetarian food22 rue Rambuteau, 3ème • 01 42 74 24 66Open lunch & dinner dailyIt may be vegetarian and organic, but that doesn’tmean it’s all tofu and sprouts. Instead, tuck into tastydishes such as meat-free pasta carbonara with chan-terelles, minestrone and chunky tarts. No incense andbatik throws either, just a galley-style room with pared-back decor and an emphasis on healthy eating. CheapLe Pamphlet quick-change menu38 rue Debelleyme, 3ème • 01 42 72 39 24Open lunch & dinner Tue–Fri, dinner only Sat & MonThe menu at this Pyrenees bistro takes its lead fromseasonally available produce and changes severaltimes a week; one day, rack of Pyrenean lamb, thenext, glazed suckling pig. Owner-chef Alain Carrère –an aficionado of butter and cream – can be gruff, butgenerally a friendly atmosphere reigns. Moderate11 A511 B511 C4Restaurants
  26. 26. 2917 B1BrasseriesWhen you want a vintage setting, straightforwardfood, professional waiters and great atmosphere,nothing can beat a Parisian brasserie. Many of thecity’s most historic examples belong to the Flogroup, whose owner Jean-Paul Bucher founded theempire in 1968 with the purchase of Brasserie Flo,which resembles a hunting lodge but still has thefeel of an Alsatian tavern. Nearby, another Floflagship, Julien, brings a dash of class to this grittypart of town, near the Gare de l’Est, with its glitzyArt-Nouveau interior. Perhaps the most belovedFlo brasseries, however, are the Art-Deco LaCoupole – no longer a bona fide literary haunt, butstill a great venue — and the more intimate LeBalzar, whose purchase by the group sparked anoutcry among its intellectual habitués. The typicalbrasserie fare of choucroute (shredded, fermentedcabbage, also known as sauerkraut), enormousseafood platters, steaks and sole meunière isgenerally good enough in Flo brasseries to preventthe regulars from grumbling, and the desserts,such as giant ice-cream sundaes and parfaits,can be spectacular.Among the independent brasseries, the Brasseriede l’Isle St-Louis is a favourite for its tavern-likeinterior and view of Notre Dame’s elegant rear.Near the Gare St-Lazare, Garnier is known for itsoutstanding seafood and rather glamorous setting,while the down-to-earth Le Grand Colbert, next tothe Palais Royal, may have the oldest interior – partof the dining room dates from the 17th century.Whatever the brasserie, try not to be tempted bythe more complex dishes – the kitchens can getoverwhelmed at peak times, resulting in slapdashpreparations. For contact details, see p218.If you haven’t reserved a table, arrive by 12:30 for lunch or 7:30 for dinner to beat the crowdsCentreL’As du Fallafel Middle-Eastern mecca34 rue des Rosiers, 4ème • 01 48 87 63 60Open all day Sun–FriOne of many falafel joints on the bustling rue desRosiers, but undoubtedly the best. The “special”,with crunchy chickpea balls cooked to order, friedaubergine, shredded cabbage, hummus and spicysauces will convert non-believers. This is the epitomeof fast food, so don’t expect to linger. CheapL’Ambroisie classy cuisine9 place des Vosges, 4ème • 01 42 78 51 45Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatBernard Pacaud’s food is sedate and sophisticated,just like the interior of this 17th-century town housewith high ceilings and gilt flourishes. High-end diningmeans polished cooking, artistic presentation anddeluxe ingredients (lobster, foie gras, truffles).Service is efficient but sometimes frosty. Expensive17 C1
  27. 27. 3017 C3For the secrets of services charges and tipping, check’Enoteca Italian know-how25 rue Charles V, 4ème • 01 42 78 91 44Open lunch & dinner dailyThis welcoming wine bar is the place to try both Italianwine (there are some 30,000 bottles in the cellar) andchoice Italian food. Dishes such as swordfish carpacciowith pesto, risotto with asparagus, and bunet (choco-late flan), together with unpretentious service anddecor, mean reservations are advisable. ModerateLe Vieux Bistro timeless attraction14 rue du Cloître Notre Dame, 4ème • 01 43 54 18 95Open lunch & dinner dailyDespite its touristy address, The Old Bistro retains anauthentic feel, including a dining room that looks asif it hasn’t changed in decades, and a cache of regularswho never tire of dishes such as Lyonnais sausagewith potatoes, boeuf bourguignon and tarte tatin.Portions are generous; the service likewise. ModerateGeorget rustic bliss64 rue Vieille du Temple, 4ème • 01 42 78 55 89Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatMore like a country kitchen than a Paris restaurant,this is the kind of place where you get to watch yoursteak being chopped off an enormous side of beef andthrown on to the wood-fire griddle to sizzle. Theatmosphere might be smoky and the staff can berude, but the food is good and filling. Moderate11 B517 C216 H2RestaurantsLa Canaille eccentric eating4 rue Crillon, 4ème • 01 42 78 09 71www.lacanaille.frOpen lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatIn this quirkily laid-back literary café, don’t besurprised if the waiter hands you his note pad andasks you to write down your food order. The Frenchcuisine with a twist – salmon in a crunchy peanutsauce, for example – is reassuringly reliable. Cheap
  28. 28. 3116 H3CentreMon Vieil Ami modest inventiveness69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4ème • 01 40 46 01 35Open lunch & dinner Wed–SunDistinguished French chef Antoine Westerman’s takeon Alsatian cuisine bears no hint of pedestrian porkand cabbage. Instead, it’s all about innovative foodcombinations to match the unmistakably moderninterior of his one Paris bistro. Westerman’s culinarymastery lurks behind a demure, easily missedfaçade; in fact, compared to many eateries on the tinyIle St-Louis, Mon Vieil Ami seems very low-keyindeed. All the action is inside and on the plate:generous servings of chicken with caramelizedsauerkraut and potato purée, and roast cod withcarrots, raisins and dates. It’s lighter and more variedthan traditional Alsatian fare, but that’s because aMichelin three-star chef devised the menu.Westerman might not be flinging the pans out back,but he’s there in spirit, and that means that the bistrois fast becoming an old friend to many. ModerateL’Osteria risotto central10 rue de Sévigné, 4ème • 01 42 71 37 08Open lunch & dinner Tue–Fri, dinner only MonToni Vianello is the risotto maestro; he’s even writtena cookbook on the subject, and his risottos aresimply sensational – especially the one with pheasantand black truffles. This is some of the finest Italianfood around and, as a result, tables are jam-packed,often with designers and political gurus. ModerateAnahuacalli a trip down Mexico way30 rue des Bernardins, 5ème • 01 43 26 10 20Open dinner only dailyCooking from south of the border doesn’t come muchbetter than this; forget runny guacamole and dry tacoshells, this is mole poblano (turkey cooked with choc-olate) territory. It’s serious regional Mexican food withvery good margaritas served up by charming staff,albeit in a rather subdued atmosphere. Moderate17 C117 A2Wines by the glass and half-bottle can be disproportionately expensive compared to full bottles
  29. 29. 20 H13216 H216 Délices d’Aphrodite Greek odyssey4 rue de Candolle, 5ème • 01 43 31 40 Open lunch & dinner Mon–SatWith a dining room done out in cool Mediterraneanblue, a ceiling of trellised ivy, and good-quality Greekfood, from dolmades to spit-roasted lamb, this is theperfect antidote to a grey day in Paris. The service istypically Greek too – it can be slow but it comes witha smile, so relax. ModerateLe Reminet sugar and spice3 rue des Grands-Degrés, 5ème • 01 44 07 04 24Open lunch & dinner Thu–MonThis romantic little bistro just gets better and better,thanks to chef Hugues Gournay’s passion for food. Hisinterest in spices results in dishes such as lamb chopswith a cumin-and-red-pepper crust. Desserts are out-standing and service couldn’t be more helpful. A 13€lunch menu is available (Mon, Thu and Fri). ModerateLe Cosi rugged cuisine9 rue Cujas, 5ème • 01 43 29 20 20Open lunch & dinner Mon–SatCorsica has its own mountain cuisine featuring unusual cheeses, out-standing charcuterie and long-simmered stews, and the red walls of thisbistro create a suitably warm setting for this hot-blooded food. Expect asophisticated spin on rustic ingredients, with pulses, brocciu (a ricotta-like cheese) and cabri (kid) featuring large on the menu. If you’ve roomfor dessert, do try the delicious fiadone cheesecake. ModerateFogon St-Julien Spanish class10 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 5ème • 01 43 54 31 33Open lunch & dinner Sat & Sun, dinner only Tue–FriOwner-chef Alberto Herraiz dishes up some of the bestSpanish food in Paris in this sunny dining room on oneof the city’s oldest streets. His quest for quality ingredi-ents is evident in his elegant tapas and superb paellaValenciana: saffron-stained rice topped with plumpchicken, rabbit, snails and vegetables. Moderate16 H3Restaurants
  30. 30. 33Don’t hope to rush through an evening meal: expect a minimum of two hours at the tableCentreRestaurant Marty Art Deco dining20 avenue des Gobelins, 5ème • 01 43 31 39 Open lunch & dinner dailyThe Marty stands out among Parisian brasseries ontwo counts: it is independent, and chef Thierry Colashas an haute cuisine pedigree. As a result, the foodgoes beyond brasserie classics. Try salmon sautéedwith grapes and served with a celeriac purée, or vealwith herb butter and violet mustard. ModerateLa Tour d’Argent fine food with a view15–17 quai de la Tournelle, 5ème • 01 43 54 23 Closed Mon & Tue lunchViews don’t get much more Parisian than this, andthe cuisine doesn’t get more ageless: the restauranthas been serving the same pressed-duck recipe since1890. It’s kid-glove treatment all the way, but youdon’t have to blow the budget. The lunch menu isgreat value and the view’s the same. ExpensiveLe Pré Verre a modern twist on the classic8 rue Thénard, 5ème • 01 43 54 59 47Open lunch & dinner Tue–Sat, dinner only MonThe Delacourcelle brothers do French classics with anod to the modern. Chef Philippe is a fan of herbs andspices, and it shows in his pairing of rabbit withcumin, adding ginger to shallot sauce, showeringsquid with sesame vinaigrette or popping parsley inthe strawberry dessert. The cuisine is slightly fusion,but with an emphasis on good, sustaining food (suchas mashed potato with foie gras). Perched on a cornerin the scholarly Quartier Latin, this bistrot à vins isvery much a neighbourhood favourite, attractingcooing couples, conversing academics, serious suitsand curious visitors. It’s casual and friendly, with awooden floor and walls dotted with vintage jazz LPs.Très cool – especially in summer, when the doors areflung back and the tables spill on to the street. Thewine list is worthy, and the lunch menu is a bargain.Moderate16 G317 A321 A2
  31. 31. 34 Japanese cool3 rue André-Mazet, 6ème • 01 46 33 72 05Open lunch & dinner Tue–Sat, dinner only SunTeppanaki restaurants are rare in Paris, so it’ssurprising to find this Zen oasis in the heart of bustlingSt-Germain. On the main floor you can watch the sharp-knifed chefs at work, grilling fresh, raw ingredientsbefore the customers’ eyes, while the downstairs roomfeels calmer thanks to a small fountain. ModerateAllard old timer41 rue St-André-des-Arts, 6ème • 01 43 26 48 23Open lunch & dinner Mon–SatAllard doesn’t seem to have changed much since the1940s, and that’s just the way its regulars like it.Against a backdrop of weathered wallpaper, visitorsmix with the neighbourhood’s bourgeois, who flockhere for hearty dishes such as Bresse chicken withmushrooms and the canard aux olives. ModerateL’Epi Dupin creative cooking11 rue Dupin, 6ème • 01 42 22 64 56Open lunch & dinner Tue–Fri, dinner only MonChef François Pasteau’s bistro is full day and nightthanks to a mix of imaginative cooking (mackerel in ahazelnut-and-fennel crust and pigeon with braisedonions), fast, friendly service and a cosy old diningroom. Blackboard specials reflect the best producethe seasons have to offer. ModerateYen a slice of Tokyo22 rue St-Benoît, 6ème • 01 45 44 11 18Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatIf you have a yen for noodles, this is the place tosatisfy your craving. The neighbourhood couldn’t bemore Parisian, but once in the wood dining room youcould easily be in Tokyo. At lunchtime, try a bento box;at dinner, the speciality is soba – buckwheat noodlesserved with a delicious dipping sauce. Moderate15 C316 E2Restaurants16 F216 F2
  32. 32. 3516 F3CentreLe Salon d’Hélène southwest-side story4 rue dAssas, 6ème • 01 42 22 00 11Open lunch & dinner Wed–Sat, dinner only TueFrench chefs in general don’t tend to stray too far fromformality – but there are exceptions, and HélèneDarroze is one of them. In an effort to make her south-western cooking more accessible, she opened Le Salond’Hélène, a more reasonably priced, more casualeatery on the floor below her Michelin two-star restau-rant. Rather than a three-course-plus-cheese meal,Darroze took to tapas – she hails from France’s Basquecountry, and the Spanish influence is evident in hercooking. Graze on a range of beautifully presentedsmall dishes (oyster with foie gras ‘ice cream’, lan-goustine tempura, duck liver with dried fruit) from thecomfort of a plush pink sofa, bar-style high chairs withraised tables or a banquette loaded with cushions.Darroze comes from a family of chefs and also spenttime in Alain Ducasse’s restaurant in Monte Carlo, sodiners are in capable, and creative, hands. ExpensiveLa Table d’Aude country helpings8 rue de Vaugirard, 6ème • 01 43 26 36 36Open lunch & dinner Tue–Fri, dinner only Sat, lunch only MonBernard Pautou’s welcome is as warm as hiscassoulet – a robust duck, pork and bean stew forwhich the Aude, a region in Languedoc-Roussillon insouthern France, is renowned. This is no-nonsensecountry food – just the thing to keep winter chills andhunger pangs at bay. ModerateLe Timbre a modern touch3 rue Ste-Beuve, 6ème • 01 45 49 10 40Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatGarret-like Le Timbre serves refined French food (roastpigeon with mango and ginger chutney, Jerusalemartichoke purée with truffle oil) with a dash of theBritish, thanks to its Mancunian owner. Cleverlyarranged around the long counter, the dining roomencourages conviviality. Moderate15 D515 D3
  33. 33. 3615 A1Keep in touch with the Parisian restaurant scene at’Ami Jean Basque is best27 rue Malar, 7ème • 01 47 05 86 89Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatSome of the best bistro chefs in Paris come from theFrench Basque region, and Stéphane Jégo, who ownsthis tavern-like bistro, is one of them. Jégo cooks upspecialities such as axoa (veal stew) alongside moremodern inventions like marinated scallops withshaved ewe’s-milk cheese. ModerateL’Arpège art appreciation84 rue de Varenne, 7ème • 01 45 51 47 33Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriChef Alain Passard caters for the serious food connois-seur. His food is close to art, which seems appropriategiven that the Musée Rodin (see p101) is just opposite.The wine list is almost as long as War and Peace, thedecor is discreetly modern and the prices are rathersteep. In recent times, Passard has shunned red meat,preferring instead to serve fish, shellfish, poultryand – his overriding passion of late – vegetables. InL’Arpège’s kitchen at least, légumes have finally beengranted their rightful place alongside fish and meat asdiet staples. Passard prides himself on retaining theunique colours and flavours of his ingredients; conse-quently, his food looks as if it has escaped the pagesof a glossy art mag. Tender lobster braised in Jura wineand his signature dessert, a candied 12-flavour tomatofilled with dried and fresh fruit, nuts and spices, arebeautiful to look at and even better to eat. ExpensiveBellota-Bellota simple Spanish pleasures18 rue Jean-Nicot, 7ème • 01 53 59 96 96Open lunch & dinner Mon–SatThis breezy, tiled bar-cum-grocery is devoted toSpain’s finest ham: ruby-red meat from black-footedIberian pigs that graze on acorns (bellotas). And it’sthe acorns that give the ham its wonderful flavour.Excellent manchego cheese, anchovies, olives andtuna are also on offer. Perfect for lunch or a late8 G5Restaurants8 G5
  34. 34. 37In France, bread is broken at the table, and can just be put on the tablecloth if there’s no side plateCentreL’Atelier de Joël Robuchon hot spot5 rue de Montalembert, 7ème • 01 42 22 56 56Open lunch & dinner dailyHe might not be a household name outside France,but in Paris Joël Robuchon stands for French cuisineat its most refined. Gastronomes were devastatedwhen he announced his retirement from the rest-aurant world at the age of 51, and his comeback wasthe subject of rumours for years. Now in his late 50s,Robuchon has not only opened what is probably themost modern restaurant in Paris (with a twinestablishment in Tokyo), but he is also planning otherprojects, including one in the 16th arrondissement.What is all the fuss about? Well, his potato purée forone, made from the flavourful ratte variety and withnearly as much butter as potato. At L’Atelier, dinerssit around two bars in the compact, red-and-blacklacquered dining room (there are no individual chairsand tables), while cooks toil in the open kitchen,slightly removed from the communal counters. Youcan order a little – from a selection of about 20 smallplates inspired by Asia, Spain and offerings from thebest Parisian chefs – or a lot, as it is also possibleto have a blow-out three-course meal of full-sizedofferings without feeling rushed. Some of the mostoutstanding dishes are spaghetti à notre façon (anAlsatian take on carbonara), turbot with the famouspotato purée and, among the smaller plates, clamsstuffed with garlic and a crisp mackerel tart withParmesan cheese. Desserts, such as the chartreusesoufflé, are served in small portions to allow forgrazing. Telephone reservations are possible only for11:30am and 6:30pm; otherwise, be prepared toqueue alongside Left Bank lawyers and publisherswho are willing to swallow their pride for extraordina-rily good food. Expensive15 D1
  35. 35. 388 F58 F5Best Places to Buy Food to GoLong limited to a sandwich or a quiche, takeawayfood in Paris is growing more varied by the minute.For salads, hot dishes and perhaps a slice of pâté,stop by any neighbourhood charcutier/traiteur,where you will be charged according to the weight ofyour order. The gourmet counters at Le Bon Marché’sGrande Epicerie offer more exotic options, as dothose at Galeries Lafayette. British-style sandwichesare sold at the popular Cojean, while top chef AlainDucasse and à la mode baker Eric Kayser providehigh-class sandwiches at Be. Perhaps the best mealto go, though, is the fat falafel sandwich at L’As duFallafel, the pick of Lenny Kravitz and otherdiscriminating chickpea fans. For 5€, it’s heaven ona plastic plate. For contact details, see Bon Accueil a success story14 rue de Monttessuy, 7ème • 01 47 05 46 11Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriLying in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, this bistro isteeming most days and nights (often with out-of-towners in the tourist season). Owner Jacques Lacipièrehas refurbished it to give it a trendier edge and betterlighting, but the seasonal menu remains good qualityand the service is always agreeable. ModerateCafé Constant simply delicious139 rue St-Dominique, 7ème • 01 47 53 73 34Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatAs head chef at the luxury hotel Le Crillon (see p177),Christian Constant trained many of the best bistrochefs in Paris today, including Christian Etchebest ofLe Troquet (see p55). Constant is gradually colonizingthe rue St-Dominique with this eponymous café; hisclassic restaurant, Le Violon d’Ingres; and mostrecently, La Table de la Fontaine, an affordable fishhouse. But Café Constant is the locals’ favourite, andit’s here that the chef can express his casual side (heis often seen having lunch here, which shows howcomfortable he is with this simpler style of cooking).The menu is something of a nostalgia trip – oeufsmimosa, pumpkin soup with Gruyère, veal CordonBleu, profiteroles and île flottante, all prepared just asthey should be. Like the food, the setting doesn’t puton airs – white walls, old tile floors and red banquettes– and the staff are exceptionally friendly. ModerateRestaurants
  36. 36. 392 G58 H18 F2Centre & WestL’Angle du Faubourg cornering success195 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8ème • 01 40 74 20 Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriBoosted by the success of his Michelin three-star rest-aurant, Taillevent, owner Jean-Claude Vrinat openedthis more cost-conscious bistro. Contemporary in look,it combines both the classical and the modern in thekitchen, sending out attractive dishes such as braisedveal cheeks to an up-market clientele. ModerateLe Bistrot Napolitain perfect pizza18 avenue Franklin D Roosevelt, 8ème • 01 45 62 08 37Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatDown-to-earth bistros are thin on the ground in theseparts, which explains the popularity of this Italiantrattoria. It’s hard to resist the crisp-crusted classicpizzas, such as Margherita, but the carpaccio, fishand pasta are equally tempting. Perfect for a quickbite after the cinema, but book ahead. ModerateFlora provincial elegance36 avenue George V, 8ème • 01 40 70 10 49Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatThis stylish restaurant’s menu is influenced by south-ern France (chef Flora Mikula was born in Provence),but also dips into even sunnier lands, such as Turkey,Morocco and India. Mikula has a sure touch with pro-duce and lots of finesse, as dishes such as lobster withwild mushrooms in coral vinaigrette attest. ModerateGarnier a fishy business111 rue St-Lazare, 8ème • 01 43 87 50 40Open lunch & dinner dailySup on freshly shucked oysters at the bijou oyster barjust inside the door, or take an impeccably laid tablenear the window and watch the commuters fromnearby Gare St-Lazare grind by. The setting is elegant,waiters are considerate and the seafood is a cut wellabove that of most Paris brasseries. Expensive3 C5Many restaurants close in August for 2 weeks – call ahead to check
  37. 37. 40 A28 G3Maison Blanche a drop of the Med15 avenue Montaigne, 8ème • 01 47 23 55 lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & SunThe Pourcel twins just love the Mediterranean and itshows in their inventive menu. A plate of roast pigeonfillets with pan-fried peaches and cacao accompaniedby a penthouse view of Paris might not come cheap,but extravagance has its rewards. ExpensiveMarket exemplary innovations15 avenue Matignon, 8ème • 01 56 43 40 Open breakfast, lunch & dinnerdailyJean-Georges Vongerichten, the whizz kid behind NewYork’s Mercer Kitchen and Vong, has returned to hisFrench roots with this fashionable spot. Celebrities andlocal suits can’t get enough of his clever food, suchas raw-tuna spring roll or “burnt” foie gras with aLe Cristal Room glass actLa Maison Baccarat, 11 place des Etats-Unis, 16ème01 40 22 11 10 Open breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon–SatA giant chandelier immersed in an aquarium gives aclue as to who was in charge of decorating the newBaccarat museum and boutique: the daring and wittyPhilippe Starck. Formerly a private residence, thismansion is now, literally, a crystal palace, with glassand mirrors creating dizzying optical effects. The in-store restaurant, a showcase for Baccarat’s crystaland porcelain, has become a huge hit thanks to itsironic-but-chic decor and simple, yet deliciouslyprepared, food. What can you expect to eat? Most ofthe modish folk who come here probably don’t careall that much, but dishes such as a frothy soup ofpotimarron (a type of pumpkin that tastes likechestnut) and the very good club sandwich show thatthe kitchen is far from careless. If you have anymoney left over, you can pick up a jewel or accessoryas a souvenir. Be sure to book ahead. Expensive8 E2Restaurants
  38. 38. 41A three-course prix fixe menu, though often limited in choice, is much cheaper than eating à la carteWest3 C59 C2Lucas Carton haute cuisine9 place de la Madeleine, 8ème • 01 42 65 22 90www.lucascarton.comOpen lunch & dinner Tue–Fri; dinner only Sat & MonAlain Senderens believes passionately that fine foodmerits fine wine: he looks for hints of dried fruit, herbsor toasted nuts in wine and then marries them with thereal thing. Thus, each dish here is accompanied by awine that harmonizes perfectly with it; a late-harvestGewurztraminer with its rose-lychee bouquet teamedwith roasted foie gras in an exotic fruit vinaigrette is amatch made in heaven. The food is the perfectpartner for one of the most lavish dining rooms inParis – boasting curved Art-Nouveau wood partitionswith glass-encased butterflies and rich, merlot-coloured banquettes. Senderens bought therestaurant in 1985, perhaps as a nostalgic nod to thetime he spent here as a young saucier for therenowned chef Soustelle. Twenty years later, theapprentice is now the acclaimed master. ExpensiveSavy regional traditions23 rue Bayard, 8ème • 01 47 23 46 98Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriAn old-fashioned bistro, both in decor and disposition,that provides welcome relief from the 24-caratdesigner shops and salons of nearby avenueMontaigne. Comfort food, from coddled eggs to ribsteak with bone marrow and matchstick potatoes, isserved up in comfortable surroundings. ModerateA Toutes Vapeurs all steamed up7 rue de l’Isly, 8ème • 01 44 90 95 75Open until 11pm Mon–SatWaistline-watchers and the health conscious love thelittle paniers (baskets) of vegetable, fish and meatcombinations at this self-service eating house – allcooked while you wait. Choose a pre-prepared basket,a flavoured oil and, presto, it’s in and out of thechrome “dry” steamer in minutes. Cheap8 G3
  39. 39. 42 Locate Paris’s vegetarian restaurants through’Astrance top tables4 rue Beethoven, 16ème • 01 40 50 84 40Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriThis three-year-old, 25-seat dining room near Trocadérois arguably the most exciting restaurant to haveopened in Paris this century (though Joël Robuchon’sAtelier (see p37) is a close rival). Pascal Barbot andChristophe Rohat (who runs the dining room) workedwith Alain Passard at L’Arpège (see p36) before branch-ing out on their own with a style that reflects Barbot’stime as a chef in Sydney. Asian spices turn up in allsorts of unexpected places, but never shock the pal-ate. Minimalist names on the menu create an elementof suspense, but first come surprise nibbles: soupmade with nearly burnt bread (much more intriguingthan it sounds) or an avocado and crab millefeuilleflavoured with almond oil and a tiny Granny Smithjulienne. Then comes “The Pea”, a frothy green creamtopped with crisp, golden-brown shavings of bakedTomme d’Auvergne cheese and a fresh pea pod linedwith plump, tender peas. “The Mackerel” shows whatBarbot can do with a humble fish: boneless filletscome coated in spiced crumbs, on a bed of Asian-stylespinach with sesame. More amuse-gueules, such asherb-infused sorbets and an eggshell filled with eggycream, pave the way for inventive desserts combiningfruits and spices. The sober – but not off-puttingly so –grey dining room, its walls decorated with gilt-framedmirrors, puts the spotlight on the food. So cherishedare reservations here (you must book exactly onemonth ahead) that foodies congratulate each otheron their success in securing a table. ExpensiveRestaurants7 C5
  40. 40. 43A pichet (carafe) of house wine is usually good value and very drinkableWestLa Grande Armée modern classic3 avenue de la Grande Armée, 16ème • 01 45 00 24 77Open breakfast, lunch & dinner dailyJointly owned by the Costes brothers and designerJacques Garcia, this contemporary take on the classicbrasserie is more bordello red and leopard skin thanbeer and brass. Count on dependable food (duckshepherd’s pie), a stylish crowd and a surprisinglycosy atmosphere. Great for breakfast, too. ModerateLe Petit Rétro trad French5 rue Mesnil, 16ème • 01 44 05 06 05www.petitretro.frOpen lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatIn keeping with its authentic Belle Epoque decor, LePetit Rétro is a bastion of traditional French cooking.Melt-in-your mouth duck liver pâté and creamy vealstew never go out of fashion, which is precisely whythis not-so-little bistro is always brimful. ModerateL’Entredgeu packed-out bistro83 rue Laugier, 17ème • 01 40 54 97 24Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatDoes Paris need another bistro? Of course it does,when it’s as good as this one. The space is crampedand smoky, but locals crowd in nonetheless for thedaily changing menu, which might include spot-ondishes such as veal en cocotte with new potatoes orrack of lamb with a salsify jus. ModerateJamin cooking with class32 rue de Longchamp, 16ème • 01 45 53 00 07Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriBenoit Guichard, longtime second-in-command to master chef JoëlRobuchon (see p37), is a traditionalist at heart as his pigeon sausage withfoie gras exemplifies, but his menu reveals some contemporary thinking,too. And while the staid green-and-pink decor doesn’t have many fans, thefood does. The lunch menu is an excellent (and relatively economical) wayto sample his culinary prowess. Expensive7 C21 D27 E17 D3
  41. 41. 444 F42 F33 Table de Lucullus net benefits129 rue Legendre, 17ème • 01 40 25 02 68Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatSelf-taught chef Nicolas Vagnon doesn’t compromiseon quality, to the extent that his menu now focusesentirely on wild fish caught off France’s Ile d’Yeu. HisTuesday-night tasting menu presents a single seacreature, such as eel or scallops, in different guises.The modest dining room is non-smoking. ExpensiveLe Bistrot d’à Côte Flaubert a treat10 rue Gustave Flaubert, 17ème • 01 42 67 05 Open lunch & dinner dailyIt’s no surprise that haute cuisine chef MichelRostang’s first bistro turned out to be more sophi-sticated than many of its genre. The period interior,and walls of kaleidoscopic majolica ceramics and oldMichelin guides, provide a convivial setting in whichto sample consistently good bistro cooking. ModerateKastoori Indian idyll4 place Gustave Toudouze, 9ème • 01 44 53 06 10Open lunch & dinner dailyThere aren’t many Indian restaurants in Paris whereyou can enjoy a fairly authentic meal in warm, tastefulsurroundings, or on a quiet pavement terrace. Hencethe popularity of Kastoori, with its carefully spiced – ifnot chilli-potent – food. The 8€ lunch menu is one ofthe city’s best bargains. Cheap4 F5RestaurantsCasa Olympe fixed-menu finesse48 rue St-Georges, 9ème • 01 42 85 26 01Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriDominique Versini, aka Olympe, is a diva of the Parisrestaurant scene. The compact, ochre-painted diningroom showcases her fine cooking, which draws on herCorsican roots. The three-course, 34€ menu offerssimple dishes, like potato salad with truffle shavings,that highlight the quality of the ingredients. Moderate
  42. 42. 454 F44 F5West & NorthRose Bakery daytime distraction46 rue des Martyrs, 9ème • 01 42 82 12 80Open during the day Tue–SunThis café is dedicated to typically British products(from baked beans to sausages), many of themorganic. Quiches, soups and snack-sized pizzas satisfythe lunch crowd, but the big draw is the childhood-fantasy cakes, from tangy lemon tarts to sticky toffeepudding. The decor is as simple as the food. CheapMartel trendy French-Algerian3 rue Martel, 10ème • 01 47 70 67 56Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatThe latest haunt of couscous-loving fashionistas is thisbistro in the interesting and up-and-coming 10th.Among the most popular dishes are the “lovers’ arti-choke” a spiky treat to be shared, and lamb tagine withalmonds, prunes and apricots, but it’s hard for thefood to compete with the glamorous crowd. ModerateVelly down-to-earth bistro52 rue Lamartine, 9ème • 01 48 78 60 05Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriJust off the old-fashioned rue des Martyrs, Velly is thekind of bistro everyone hopes to find in Paris. In a no-frills setting, the real star is the food, prepared withseasonal ingredients and attention to presentation.Regulars love the oeuf cocotte with foie gras, and meatymains like onglet de veau with salsify fritters. ModerateChez Dom funky West African34 rue Sambre et Meuse, 10ème • 01 42 01 59 80Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & SunTypical of the quartier, Chez Dom serves authenticSenegalese food. Flower-printed tablecloths set thecheerful tone, and a glass of potent ti ponch arriveseven before you’ve asked for it. Boldly spiced meatand fish stews will have you licking the plate, but try tosave room for the “sexy chocolate” dessert. Moderate6 E511 A1
  43. 43. 46 Nord classy destination23 rue de Dunkerque, 10ème • 01 42 85 05 Open lunch & dinner dailyDespite its position opposite the busy northern railwaystation, the august Terminus Nord is no tourist trap,just one of the city’s most handsome brasseries. Refuelpost-journey on onion soup and fresh seafood servedby white-suited waiters under the gaze of huge fres-coes and turn-of-the-20th-century posters. ModerateCafé Burq fashionable French6 rue Burq, 18ème • 01 42 52 81 27Open dinner only Tue–SunFormerly a sepia-toned wine bar, the Moulin à Vins,this bistro has been reborn as a slick hang-out forMontmartre’s young artists, film-makers and mediafolk. The mostly classic French food is decent enough,but what people really come for is the joyous, ifsmoky, atmosphere. ModerateChez Michel from Brittany with love10 rue de Belzunce, 10ème • 01 44 53 06 20Open lunch & dinner Tue–Fri, dinner only MonThere’s no mistaking Thierry Breton’s roots: the menuis piled high with hearty seasonal offerings from hisnative Brittany. And to quash any doubt, he also sportsthe Breton flag on his chef’s whites. While the areaisn’t very chic, the restaurant, with its red velvet ban-quettes and farmhouse-style seating in the basement,is nicely perched behind the imposing St-Vincent-de-Paul church, and the food is very smart indeed. Theblackboard specials echo the seasons and carry anadditional cost but they’re worth it – game-lovers arewell catered for in the cooler months with pigeon,wild boar and venison. At other times, try plump, freshscallops with velvety celeriac purée. Breton’s Paris-Brest, choux pastry filled with hazelnut butter cream,is pure dessert happiness. The service can be excru-ciatingly slow, but the staff are affable, and if there’sany tension it melts when the food appears. ModerateRestaurants4 E25 A45 A4
  44. 44. 47When asking for water, specify une carafe unless you want mineral waterNorth4 E24 F1Chez Toinette neighbourhood bistro20 rue Germain-Pilon, 18ème • 01 42 54 44 36Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatYou don’t expect to find a discreet, candle-lit jewellike this one around the corner from bawdy Pigalle, soit’s all the more surprising to discover that ChezToinette also has seriously good food. You’ll oftenfind Provençal dishes on the menu, such as daube deboeuf; game is a speciality in winter. ModerateLao Siam Southeast Asian offerings49 rue de Belleville, 19ème • 01 40 40 09 68Open lunch & dinner dailyNeither service nor decor are particularly charming,but Lao Siam is almost always packed thanks to thelip-smacking flavours of its Thai and Laotian dishes.Squid salad is a good bet to start, followed by coconut-milk curry and a giant, juicy mango. The separatenon-smoking dining room is less busy. CheapLe Poulbot Gourmet trad French food39 rue Lamarck, 18ème • 01 46 06 86 00Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat; closed Sun Jun–Sep;lunch Sun Oct–MayIt’s a little out of the way, but this Montmartre restau-rant has a loyal following thanks to the sincerity of itsowner and of its cooking. The small dining room isthe perfect place to savour hearty dishes such as vealkidney with morel mushrooms. ModerateLa Cave Gourmande hidden talent10 rue duGénéral-Brunet,19ème • 01 40 40 03 30 • q BotzarisOpen lunch & dinner Mon–FriThis sedate neighbourhood near the Butte Chaumontpark is not where you’d expect to find an up-and-coming US chef, but Paris has a few such secret eatingdestinations. Mark Singer puts a modern spin ontraditional French dishes, so you might find escargots,but not bathed in the usual garlic butter. Moderate12 G1
  45. 45. 484 F2Seek out Paris’s classic brasseries through Famille globe-trotting hit41 rue des Trois-Frères, 18ème • 01 42 52 11 12Open dinner only Tue–Sat, dinner 1st Sun of each month,brunch 2nd–4th Sun of each monthFew Paris chefs have come to grips with fusion food,which is why La Famille, in newly fashionableMontmartre, has become such a hit. Young Basquechef Inaki Aizpitarte has had his passport stampedaround the world, particularly in Latin America andMorocco, and also worked with the inventive GillesChoukroun at Le Café des Délices before opening thisrestaurant with his cousin (he’s the one in charge ofthe bar and the hip music). The short, constantlychanging menu combines French (and especiallyBasque) ingredients with more tropical flavours,resulting in dishes such as pan-fried foie gras withmiso sauce, gambas pan-fried with passion fruit, andchocolate custard with Espelette chilli pepper. Noteverything works all the time but any culinary near-misses are easily compensated for by the fact thatdinner here is guaranteed fun. This is especially trueof the first Sunday of each month, when the entiremenu is served in tapas-like portions so that you canreally do Aizpitarte’s creative endeavours justice andgraze your way through every dish. A help-yourselfall-day brunch of French pastries and egg dishes isserved on the other Sundays, making customers feelthat they are really part of the family. Since the sparespace is rather limited and word has already been outfor a while, it’s essential to book. ModerateRestaurants
  46. 46. 49North & EastCafé Noir eccentric surprise15 rue St-Blaise, 20ème • 01 40 09 75 80 • q Porte de BagnoletOpen dinner only dailyA thriving bar scene has put this quartier on the map, but if it’s agood meal you’re seeking here, this quirky bistro is the place to go.Located on a pedestrianized street, the restaurant’s terrace tablesare irresistible in summer; inside you can admire the coffee potand hat collections while tucking into unusual dishes such astandoori prawns with chicken livers. ModerateAstier fashionably shabby chic44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11ème • 01 43 57 16 35Open lunch & dinner Mon–FriResolutely old-fashioned, Astier is as much loved forits worn decor and overrun tables as for its great-valuefour-course menu. That doesn’t imply second-ratefood: the cooking is classy and finely balanced bet-ween traditional dishes and seasonal specials. Thewine list is long and worthy. Moderate12 E34 E2La Mascotte old Montmartre52 rue des Abbesses, 18ème • 01 46 06 28 15Open lunch & dinner dailyAt this old-fashioned neighbourhood institution, dinerscan choose from the extensive seafood selection orsatisfy serious hunger pangs with the good-value 26€menu. This might include a salad of green beans andendive, chicken with potato purée, and an almondcake with Berthillon ice cream. Moderate12 F1Benisti North African pit-stop108 boulevard de Belleville, 20ème • no phoneOpen lunch & dinner Tue–SunJewish, Arab and Chinese communities comfortably co-exist in Belleville, as a walk down the main boulevardwill testify. One of the most popular places to stop andrefuel is this Tunisian snack and pastry shop, whereyou can order a gargantuan grilled-meat sandwich orsip mint tea with a plate of sticky pastries. Cheap
  47. 47. 12 E35018 F212êperie Bretonne Fleurie pancakes67 rue de Charonne, 11ème • 01 43 55 62 29Open lunch & dinner dailyTwo steps from the booming Bastille bar scene, thiscrêperie shows the quartier’s flip-side, with realBreton specialities. Proof of its authenticity is thecrêpe filled with andouille (tripe sausage), but youcan also stick to the more conventional ham, cheeseand egg variations, washed down with cider. CheapDong Huong Vietnamese canteen14 rue Louis-Bonnet, 11ème • 01 43 57 18 88Open lunch & dinner Wed–MonWhen you can’t face another multi-course meal, a bowlof Vietnamese noodles can be just the thing to reviveyour appetite. Dong Huong stands out for the quality ofits pho (noodle soups) and grilled meats and for itslarge non-smoking room – a rarity in Paris. The crunchyimperial rolls are also exceptionally good. CheapL’Homme Bleu North African local55bis rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11ème • 01 48 07 05 63Open dinner only Mon–SatThe queue out the door attests to L’Homme Bleu’spopularity (they don’t take reservations, so show upearly). The main floor is more atmospheric thanks toits open kitchen, but those lucky enough to get atable anywhere won’t complain. Delicious couscousand fragrant tagines are the stars. ModerateJacques Mélac no-frills wine bar42 rue Léon-Frot, 11ème • 01 43 70 59 27 • q CharonneOpen lunch & dinner Tue–SatThere’s nothing complicated about moustachioedJacques’ wine bar: cheese is hacked off a giant hunk,charcuterie is sliced before your eyes and the non-smoking room is reached through the tiny kitchen,where the day’s specials such as porc aligot (sausageand cheesy potato mash) are prepared. ModerateRestaurants
  48. 48. 5118 F118 F2Post-dessert coffee is served black; if you want milk, you’ll have to ask for it (expect strange looks)EastLe Petit Keller retro home cooking13bis rue Keller, 11ème • 01 47 00 12 97Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatThis little 1950s-vintage restaurant is popular for itsgreat-value set menu — 10€ at lunch and 15€ in theevening. The food is more like decent home cookingthan ambitious restaurant fare, which is fine with thelocals who can’t be bothered to whip up salmon withsorrel sauce, duck magret or apple crumble. ModerateLe Train Bleu vintage diningGare de Lyon, place Louis-Armand, 12ème • 01 43 43 09 Open breakfast, lunch & dinner dailyWith its stockpile of cherubs, gilt and big oak benches,Le Train Bleu is a glamorously vintage experience amidthe hubbub of the Gare de Lyon train station. As you’dexpect from a Belle Epoque dame, the food is a loftytake on French classics (lobster salad, veal chops)and there’s a bar, too, for a quiet drink. ModerateLe Souk spice-scented haven1 rue Keller, 11ème • 01 49 29 05 08Open lunch & dinner Sat & Sun, dinner only Tue–FriThough it’s run by chatty Algerians, Le Souk’s food istotally Moroccan, with sweet and fragrant tagines andpastillas (poultry wrapped in crisp pastry, sprinkledwith sugar) featuring alongside couscous. Tables areso sought after that there are two fixed dinner sittings,for which bookings are essential. Moderate18 E5Le Bistrot Paul Bert seasonal food18 rue Paul-Bert, 11ème • 01 43 72 24 01 • q Faidherbe-ChalignyOpen lunch & dinner Mon–SatThis place seems to have it all: an atmospheric set-ting, genuinely friendly service, a hip, festive crowd,intriguing (organic) wines and, best of all, great foodthat follows the seasons to the extent that the black-board menu changes every day. It’s a little out of theway, but you’re unlikely to regret the effort. Moderate
  49. 49. 5221 A418 Square Trousseau outstanding bistro1 rue Antoine-Vollon, 12ème • 01 43 43 06 00Open lunch & dinner Tue–SatThanks to its setting next to a leafy square, its beau-tifully weathered 1900s interior and the charismaticand friendly staff, Le Square Trousseau oozes charm.Wines from small producers complement modernbistro fare, such as green asparagus with melon andlamb shank in a syrupy sauce. ModerateAu Trou Gascon regional refinement40 rue Taine, 12ème • 01 43 44 34 26 • q DaumesnilOpen lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only SatDevotees of serious, French southwestern cookinghunt out this contemporary restaurant overseen byMichelin two-star chef Alain Dutournier. Dishessuch as the surprisingly light cassoulet and the gutsyregional Madiran wine make the trek to this outpostmore than worthwhile. ExpensiveL’Avant Goût top-quality bistro fare26 rue Bobillot, 13ème • 01 53 80 24 00Open lunch & dinner Tue–FriJust a taste of Christophe Beaufront’s creative fare andit becomes patently clear why landing a table in herewithout a reservation is impossible. The pot-au-feu decochon (pork simmered with fennel, carrot and spices),accompanied by ginger chips, onion in cider, gherkinsand horseradish purée, is exceptional. ModerateRestaurantsSardegna a Tavola authentic Italian1 rue de Cotte, 12ème • 01 44 75 03 28Open lunch & dinner Tue–Sat, dinner only MonIt’s rare to find an authentic Italian restaurant in Paris,let alone a Sardinian one that gives you a flavour ofthis rocky, sun-baked isle. No compromises here:both ingredients and dishes are genuine, from therobust Sardinian wines to the pasta dishes, oftenflavoured with almonds, mint or orange. Moderate18 F3
  50. 50. 53East & SouthLes Cailloux casual yet classy58 rue des Cinq-Diamants, 13ème • 01 45 80 15 08Open lunch & dinner Tue