2011 Foundation Wine Course 5: Riesling

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Wine Circle Foundation Wine Course # 5: Riesling

Wine Circle Foundation Wine Course # 5: Riesling

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  • 1. 1
    Foundation Wine Course V
    20 July 2011
    Copyright © Brian Jamieson
  • 2. Riesling wines
    Lutomer Riesling
    Yugoslavia (now Slovenia)
    Germany, Mosel
    Germany, Rhine
  • 3. 3
    A white grape variety originating in the Rhine region of Germany.
    An aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity.
    It is used to make dry, semi-sweet, sweet and sparkling white wines.
    Riesling wines are usually varietally pure and are seldom oaked.
    Riesling is a variety which is highly terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of the wines is clearly influenced by its place of origin.
  • 4. Origins
    Cross between two mediaeval German varieties:
    Gouais Blanc and Traminer x wild vine
    Literature references:
    1435 in Rhiengau
    1477 in Alsace
  • 5. 5
    Impact of Riesling
    Riesling the world's 20th most grown variety at 48,700 hectares.
    In terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the "top three" white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon.
  • 6. 6
    Riesling is most commonly grown in colder regions and locations.
    Riesling is the most grown variety in Germany (20.8%) in the French region of Alsace (21.9%)
    Also in Austria, Luxembourg, northern Italy, Australia, New Zealand, Finger Lakes, USA, Canada, South Africa.
  • 7. 7
    Often consumed young.
    Riesling's naturally high acidity and range of flavours make it suitable for extended ageing.
    Ageing periods for quality Riesling wines would be
    5–15 years for dry
    10–20 years for semi-sweet
    and 10-30+ for sweet versions.
  • 8. 8
    Petroleum aroma in aged Riesling wines
    With time, Riesling wines tend to acquire a petrol nose .
    An integral part of the aroma profile of mature Riesling and sought after by many experienced drinkers.
    Ageing product :
    German wine industry ambivalent about ‘petrol or kerosene’ nose.
  • 9. Matching with food
    A Riesling's typical aromas are of flowers, tropical fruits, and mineral stone.
    Riesling is a versatile wine for pairing with food, because of its balance of sugar and acidity.
    It can be paired with white fish or pork, and is one of the few wines that can stand up to the stronger flavours and spices of Thai and Chinese cuisine.
  • 10. German wines
    A big producer.
    Traditional off-dry wines with residual sugar are now unfashionable.
    But 100 years ago Mosel and Rhine wines were sought after and were often the most expensive on Edwardian wine lists.
    Move to dry (Trocken) wines for local consumption.
  • 11. Classification of Quality German wines (the Rubbish)
    Wein – cheap blended wine made from grapes outside the EU!!
    Tafelwein – Table wine from grapes of EU origin
    DeutscherTafelwein – must be 100% German; 75% from one region to have a regional name on label
    Landwein– some quality considerations begin to creep in; from a specified region
  • 12. Classification of Quality German wines
    Qualitätswein Bestimmer Anbaugebeit (QbA) – must be from one of the 13 regions; min alc 5.9 %
    Equivalent to French AOC
  • 13. Germany’s 13 QbA wine regions
    Hessische bergstrasse
  • 14. Wines 1, 7 & 8
    Wine 2
  • 15. Classification of Quality German wines (Quality wines): QmP
    Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP) [Prädikatswein since 2007] – QbA from a specified district, village of vineyard
    Kabinett QmP- delicate medium-dry wines
    Spätlese QmP – late-picked grapes giving sweeter wines with more body
    Auslese QmP – wines from selected grapes to give enhanced intensity and richness
  • 16. 16
    Three styles on one vineDepends on ripeness,hence sugar content
  • 17. Classification of Quality German wines (The Exotic)
    Beerenauslese QmP – selected individual grapes usually showing ‘noble rot’; produces wines of great concentration; balancing acidity prevents ‘cloying’
    Eiswein QmP – ‘Ice wine’; very ripe grapes are gathered individually, often in a cold December morning when the water content is still frozen; pressed immediately and the ice crystals are separated from the acid and sugars to give a wine that is very sweet but has fresh acidity.
    Trockenbeerenauslese QmP – grapes that have been shrivelled almost to dryness due to noble rot; gathered individually late in the season to produce an intensely sweet nectar-like juice
  • 18. 18
  • 19. Mosel production
  • 20. Wine 1
    Dr L, Loosen Bros, Riesling, Qualitätswein, Mosel, 2010
    non-estate wine
    comes exclusively from traditional vineyards with steep slopes and slate soil.
    8.5% alc; 40 g/l residual sugar
    The nose suggests honey, apricot, apples.
    Off-dry. Apricot, peach hints. Minerality?
  • 21. Dr Ernst Loosen
    Ernst Loosen is a German winemaking hero.
    based in the Mosel
    grows only Riesling.
    ‘With plots in many of the region's most famous vineyards he makes fantastic wines that just scream fruit from the blue slate soils of these improbably steep slopes.’
    Decanter Magazine's 'Man of the Year' in 2005.
  • 22. The Bereich (Districts)of the Mosel
  • 23. Traditional slopes
    New land
  • 24.
  • 25. 25
    Wine 2
    Prinz von Hessen, Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, 2008
    Trocken style, but still 8.7g/l residual sugar
    Colour: Pale yellow, green
    Aroma: Fresh, juicy fruits – peaches, citrus
    Palate: Orange blossom and grapefruit. Well balanced fruit-acidity and fine mineral characteristics.
  • 26. Liebfraumilch
    Liebfraumilch is probably Germany's most notorious wine type.
    In principle a medium-quality wine designation although more commonly perceived to be a low-quality wine both at home and on the export market.
    A semi-sweet QbA from the Rheingau, Nahe, Rheinhessen or Pfalz, consisting at least 70% of the varieties Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner or Kerner.
    In practice there is very little Riesling in Liebfraumilch since varietally labelled Riesling wines tend to fetch a higher price.
  • 27. 27
    Jancis Robinson Interlude
    The tragedy of German wines
  • 28. 28
    Wine 3
    Josemeyer, Les Pierrets Riesling, Alsace AOC, 2004
    Les Pierrets = small stones also sparrows
    35 year old vines
    Hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed
    Slow fermentation with natural yeast.
    Residual sugar 6 g/l
    Palate: Quince and peach with strong minerality.
    ‘Conjures up a limestone cliff after a thunderstorm’
  • 29. Wine regions of Austria
    Look for:
    Grüner Veltliner (spicy white)
    and Riesling from Lower Austria
    Sweet wines from
    The anti-freeze scandal of 1980s
    Diethylene glycol, not
    Ethylene glycol (Anti-freeze),
    to sweeten wines
    Wine 5
  • 30. Wine 4
    Domaene Gobelsburg, Riesling, Qualitätswein, 2008
    Niederösterreich, -- Kamptal
    A modern winery in a historic castle setting.
    Deep and luxuriously intense Riesling aroma with hints of apples, melon and peach.
    Light to medium bodied. Trocken style
    Bracing acidity; noticeable minerality; any oiliness?.
    87 Parker points
  • 31. 31
  • 32. 32
    Barossa and Eden ValleysSth Australia
  • 33. 33
    Wine 5
    Rockford, Hand-picked Riesling, Eden Valley, Sth Australia 2003
    German (Silesian) heritage
    Small producer in Barossa, Eden Valleys
    Hand-picked, selected grapes.
    Colour: Light straw-green
    Aroma : Apple-blossom, citrus (lime?); any petrol?
    Palate: Citrus combined with slatiness; long, fine finish;
    ‘Still very youthful. 94 points’. [James Halliday]
  • 34. Rockford boutique wineryVintage wine press
  • 35. New Zealand
    Wine 6
  • 36. 36
    Wine 6
    Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Dry Riesling 2010.
    Colour: Light straw-green.
    Aroma : floral bouquet of sweet citrus-lime and fresh spring flowers.
    Palate: light bodied showing distinct fresh lime and citrus mandarin flavours with excellent fruit sweetness.
  • 37. The Bereich (Districts)of the Mosel
  • 38. 38
  • 39. Wine 7
    Staatlichen Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese , M-S-R, QmB, 1976
    1976 a good year in the Mosel – (remember the heatwave!)
    Colour: Dark yellow-orange?
    Nose: Citrus? Honey? Candied orange peel? Any petrol?
    Palate: Ripe honeyed fruits; luscious; long finish; but sweet enough?
    ‘It is drinking well now, and still seems quite young and vibrant’.
  • 40. 40
    Wine 8
    Dr Loosen, Riesling Beerenauslese (BA), QmB, Mosel, 2006
    Made from hand- selected botrytised grapes in an exceptional year (2006)
    Only made in years when conditions allow botrytis
    Harvested at around 120 ° Oechsle (cf.110 ° needed)
    Only 6.5% alc; 160 g/l residual sugar
    Nose: Apples, citrus?
    Palate: Ripe honeyed fruits; luscious; long finish
  • 41. Residual sugar
    Dr Loosen, Riesling Beerenauslese (BA) 160 g/l
    Dr L, Loosen Bros, Riesling, Qualitätswein 40 g/l
    Prinz von Hessen, Riesling ,Kabinett 8.7 g/l
    Villa Maria, Marlborough Dry Riesling 8.1 g/l
    Josemeyer, Les Pierrets Riesling, Alsace 6 g/l
    Rockford, Hand-picked Riesling, Eden Valley
    Domaene Gobelsburg, Riesling, Qualitätswein
    Staatlichen Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese
  • 42. Preferred style?
    Off-dry German style
    Drier German Trocken, Alsace, Austrian style
    High-fruit, acidic New World style
  • 43. 43
    Today’s wines
    1.Dr L, Loosen Bros, Riesling, Qualitätswein, Mosel 2010 £7.49 M
    Prinz von Hessen, Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, 2008£9.99 M
    Josemeyer, Les Pierrets, Riesling, Alsace AOC, 2004 £19.50 WS
    4. Domaene Gobelsburg, Riesling, Qualitätswein, 2008 £10.50 WS
    5. Rockford, Hand-picked Riesling, Eden Valley, Sth Australia 2003
    £12.99 M
    Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Dry Riesling, NZ, 2010 £8.99 W
    Staatlichen Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese, QmP, M-S-R,
    1976 £4 - £25
    Dr Loosen, Riesling Beerenauslese (BA), QmP , Mosel, 2006
    (Quarter bottles) £10.99 M
    W Waitrose WS Wine SocietyMMajestic
  • 44. Which of today’s wines?
  • 45. 45
    Final session
    Wednesday 24 August 2011 at 2.30pm
    Matching Food and Wine