2011 Foundation Wine Course 5: Riesling

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Wine Circle Foundation Wine Course # 5: Riesling

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2011 Foundation Wine Course 5: Riesling

  1. 1. 1<br />Foundation Wine Course V<br />Riesling<br />20 July 2011<br />Copyright © Brian Jamieson<br />
  2. 2. Riesling wines<br />Lutomer Riesling<br />Yugoslavia (now Slovenia)<br />Piesporter<br />Germany, Mosel<br />Liebfraumilch<br />Germany, Rhine<br />2<br />
  3. 3. 3<br />Riesling<br />A white grape variety originating in the Rhine region of Germany.<br />An aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity.<br />It is used to make dry, semi-sweet, sweet and sparkling white wines.<br />Riesling wines are usually varietally pure and are seldom oaked.<br />Riesling is a variety which is highly terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of the wines is clearly influenced by its place of origin.<br />
  4. 4. Origins<br />Cross between two mediaeval German varieties:<br />Gouais Blanc and Traminer x wild vine<br />Literature references:<br />1435 in Rhiengau<br />1477 in Alsace<br />4<br />
  5. 5. 5<br />Impact of Riesling<br />Riesling the world's 20th most grown variety at 48,700 hectares.<br />In terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the "top three" white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon.<br />
  6. 6. 6<br />Where?<br />Riesling is most commonly grown in colder regions and locations.<br />Riesling is the most grown variety in Germany (20.8%) in the French region of Alsace (21.9%)<br />Also in Austria, Luxembourg, northern Italy, Australia, New Zealand, Finger Lakes, USA, Canada, South Africa.<br />
  7. 7. 7<br />Longevity<br />Often consumed young.<br />Riesling's naturally high acidity and range of flavours make it suitable for extended ageing.<br />Ageing periods for quality Riesling wines would be<br /> 5–15 years for dry <br />10–20 years for semi-sweet<br /> and 10-30+ for sweet versions.<br />
  8. 8. 8<br />Petroleum aroma in aged Riesling wines<br />With time, Riesling wines tend to acquire a petrol nose .<br />An integral part of the aroma profile of mature Riesling and sought after by many experienced drinkers.<br />Ageing product :<br />1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene <br />TDN<br />German wine industry ambivalent about ‘petrol or kerosene’ nose.<br />
  9. 9. Matching with food<br />A Riesling's typical aromas are of flowers, tropical fruits, and mineral stone.<br />Riesling is a versatile wine for pairing with food, because of its balance of sugar and acidity. <br />It can be paired with white fish or pork, and is one of the few wines that can stand up to the stronger flavours and spices of Thai and Chinese cuisine.<br />9<br />
  10. 10. German wines<br />A big producer.<br />Traditional off-dry wines with residual sugar are now unfashionable.<br />But 100 years ago Mosel and Rhine wines were sought after and were often the most expensive on Edwardian wine lists.<br />Move to dry (Trocken) wines for local consumption.<br />
  11. 11. Classification of Quality German wines (the Rubbish)<br />Wein – cheap blended wine made from grapes outside the EU!!<br />Tafelwein – Table wine from grapes of EU origin <br />DeutscherTafelwein – must be 100% German; 75% from one region to have a regional name on label<br />Landwein– some quality considerations begin to creep in; from a specified region<br />
  12. 12. Classification of Quality German wines<br />Qualitätswein Bestimmer Anbaugebeit (QbA) – must be from one of the 13 regions; min alc 5.9 %<br />Equivalent to French AOC<br />
  13. 13. Germany’s 13 QbA wine regions<br />Ahr<br />Baden<br />Franken<br />Hessische bergstrasse<br />Mittelrhein<br />Mosel<br />Nahe<br />Pfalz<br />Rheingau<br />Rheinhessen<br />Saale-Unstrut<br />Sachsen<br />Wurttemburg<br />
  14. 14. Wines 1, 7 & 8<br />Wine 2<br />GERMANY<br />
  15. 15. Classification of Quality German wines (Quality wines): QmP<br />Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP) [Prädikatswein since 2007] – QbA from a specified district, village of vineyard<br />Kabinett QmP- delicate medium-dry wines<br />Spätlese QmP – late-picked grapes giving sweeter wines with more body<br />Auslese QmP – wines from selected grapes to give enhanced intensity and richness<br />
  16. 16. 16<br />Kabinett<br />Three styles on one vineDepends on ripeness,hence sugar content<br />Spatlese<br />Auslese<br />
  17. 17. Classification of Quality German wines (The Exotic)<br />Beerenauslese QmP – selected individual grapes usually showing ‘noble rot’; produces wines of great concentration; balancing acidity prevents ‘cloying’<br />Eiswein QmP – ‘Ice wine’; very ripe grapes are gathered individually, often in a cold December morning when the water content is still frozen; pressed immediately and the ice crystals are separated from the acid and sugars to give a wine that is very sweet but has fresh acidity.<br />Trockenbeerenauslese QmP – grapes that have been shrivelled almost to dryness due to noble rot; gathered individually late in the season to produce an intensely sweet nectar-like juice<br />
  18. 18. 18<br />
  19. 19. Mosel production<br />
  20. 20. Wine 1<br />Dr L, Loosen Bros, Riesling, Qualitätswein, Mosel, 2010<br />non-estate wine <br />comes exclusively from traditional vineyards with steep slopes and slate soil. <br />8.5% alc; 40 g/l residual sugar<br />Aromas: <br />The nose suggests honey, apricot, apples.<br />Palate: <br />Off-dry. Apricot, peach hints. Minerality?<br />20<br />
  21. 21. Dr Ernst Loosen<br />Ernst Loosen is a German winemaking hero.<br /> based in the Mosel<br /> grows only Riesling.<br />‘With plots in many of the region's most famous vineyards he makes fantastic wines that just scream fruit from the blue slate soils of these improbably steep slopes.’ <br />Decanter Magazine's 'Man of the Year' in 2005.<br />21<br />
  22. 22. The Bereich (Districts)of the Mosel<br />Ürzig<br />
  23. 23. Traditional slopes<br />New land<br />
  24. 24.
  25. 25. 25<br />Wine 2<br />Prinz von Hessen, Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, 2008<br />Trocken style, but still 8.7g/l residual sugar<br />Colour: Pale yellow, green<br />Aroma: Fresh, juicy fruits – peaches, citrus<br />Palate: Orange blossom and grapefruit. Well balanced fruit-acidity and fine mineral characteristics.<br />
  26. 26. Liebfraumilch<br />Liebfraumilch is probably Germany's most notorious wine type. <br />In principle a medium-quality wine designation although more commonly perceived to be a low-quality wine both at home and on the export market. <br />A semi-sweet QbA from the Rheingau, Nahe, Rheinhessen or Pfalz, consisting at least 70% of the varieties Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner or Kerner. <br />In practice there is very little Riesling in Liebfraumilch since varietally labelled Riesling wines tend to fetch a higher price. <br />26<br />
  27. 27. 27<br />Jancis Robinson Interlude<br />Riesling<br />The tragedy of German wines<br />
  28. 28. 28<br />Wine 3<br />Josemeyer, Les Pierrets Riesling, Alsace AOC, 2004<br />Les Pierrets = small stones also sparrows<br />35 year old vines<br />Hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed<br />Slow fermentation with natural yeast.<br />Residual sugar 6 g/l<br />Palate: Quince and peach with strong minerality.<br />‘Conjures up a limestone cliff after a thunderstorm’<br />
  29. 29. Wine regions of Austria<br />Look for:<br />Grüner Veltliner (spicy white) <br />and Riesling from Lower Austria <br />(Niederosterreich<br />Sweet wines from<br />Neusiedelersee<br />The anti-freeze scandal of 1980s<br />Diethylene glycol, not <br />Ethylene glycol (Anti-freeze), <br />to sweeten wines<br />Wine 5<br />
  30. 30. Wine 4<br />Domaene Gobelsburg, Riesling, Qualitätswein, 2008<br />Niederösterreich, -- Kamptal<br />A modern winery in a historic castle setting.<br />Aroma: <br />Deep and luxuriously intense Riesling aroma with hints of apples, melon and peach. <br />Palate:<br />Light to medium bodied. Trocken style<br />Bracing acidity; noticeable minerality; any oiliness?.<br />87 Parker points<br />30<br />
  31. 31. 31<br />
  32. 32. 32<br />Barossa and Eden ValleysSth Australia<br />Rockford<br />
  33. 33. 33<br />Wine 5<br />Rockford, Hand-picked Riesling, Eden Valley, Sth Australia 2003 <br />German (Silesian) heritage<br />Small producer in Barossa, Eden Valleys<br />Hand-picked, selected grapes.<br />Colour: Light straw-green <br />Aroma : Apple-blossom, citrus (lime?); any petrol?<br />Palate: Citrus combined with slatiness; long, fine finish; <br /> ‘Still very youthful. 94 points’. [James Halliday]<br />.<br />
  34. 34. Rockford boutique wineryVintage wine press<br />34<br />
  35. 35. New Zealand<br />35<br />Wine 6<br />
  36. 36. 36<br />Wine 6<br />Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Dry Riesling 2010.<br />Colour: Light straw-green.<br />Aroma : floral bouquet of sweet citrus-lime and fresh spring flowers.<br />Palate: light bodied showing distinct fresh lime and citrus mandarin flavours with excellent fruit sweetness.<br />.<br />
  37. 37. The Bereich (Districts)of the Mosel<br />Ürzig<br />Okfen<br />
  38. 38. 38<br />
  39. 39. Wine 7<br />Staatlichen Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese , M-S-R, QmB, 1976<br />1976 a good year in the Mosel – (remember the heatwave!)<br />Colour: Dark yellow-orange?<br />Nose: Citrus? Honey? Candied orange peel? Any petrol?<br />Palate: Ripe honeyed fruits; luscious; long finish; but sweet enough?<br />‘It is drinking well now, and still seems quite young and vibrant’.<br />39<br />
  40. 40. 40<br />Wine 8<br />Dr Loosen, Riesling Beerenauslese (BA), QmB, Mosel, 2006<br />Made from hand- selected botrytised grapes in an exceptional year (2006)<br />Only made in years when conditions allow botrytis<br />Harvested at around 120 ° Oechsle (cf.110 ° needed)<br />Only 6.5% alc; 160 g/l residual sugar<br />Nose: Apples, citrus?<br />Palate: Ripe honeyed fruits; luscious; long finish<br />
  41. 41. Residual sugar<br />Dr Loosen, Riesling Beerenauslese (BA) 160 g/l<br />Dr L, Loosen Bros, Riesling, Qualitätswein 40 g/l<br />Prinz von Hessen, Riesling ,Kabinett 8.7 g/l<br />Villa Maria, Marlborough Dry Riesling 8.1 g/l<br />Josemeyer, Les Pierrets Riesling, Alsace 6 g/l<br />Rockford, Hand-picked Riesling, Eden Valley<br />Domaene Gobelsburg, Riesling, Qualitätswein<br />Staatlichen Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese<br />41<br />
  42. 42. Preferred style?<br />Off-dry German style<br />Drier German Trocken, Alsace, Austrian style<br />High-fruit, acidic New World style<br />42<br />
  43. 43. 43<br />Today’s wines<br />1.Dr L, Loosen Bros, Riesling, Qualitätswein, Mosel 2010 £7.49 M<br />Prinz von Hessen, Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, 2008£9.99 M<br />Josemeyer, Les Pierrets, Riesling, Alsace AOC, 2004 £19.50 WS<br />4. Domaene Gobelsburg, Riesling, Qualitätswein, 2008 £10.50 WS<br />5. Rockford, Hand-picked Riesling, Eden Valley, Sth Australia 2003 <br /> £12.99 M<br />Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Dry Riesling, NZ, 2010 £8.99 W<br />Staatlichen Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese, QmP, M-S-R,<br /> 1976 £4 - £25<br />Dr Loosen, Riesling Beerenauslese (BA), QmP , Mosel, 2006<br /> (Quarter bottles) £10.99 M<br />--------------------------------<br />W Waitrose WS Wine SocietyMMajestic<br />
  44. 44. Which of today’s wines?<br />White<br />Riesling<br />Nose:<br />Fruit?<br />Petrol?<br />Minerality?<br />44<br />
  45. 45. 45<br />Final session<br />Wednesday 24 August 2011 at 2.30pm<br />Matching Food and Wine<br />

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