Women’s control underwear - Shapewear - Importadores y Distribuidores Lex van Boeckel – Searce March 2013
“The woman is the most perfect doll that I have dressed with delight and admiration.” However Nobody is perfect and... No Body is perfect But ... There are ways to hide your imperfections by SHAPEWEAR
SHAPEWEAR IN GERMANY• BELLY AND WAIST SHAPERS/CLINCHERS Ex. Corsets, pantys, girdles, high waist briefs...• LEGS AND PO-SHAPERS Ex. Bottom-booster pants, pantyhoses...• SHAPEWEAR BRAS Ex. Push-up bra – maximizer, minimizer...• MULTI-SHAPERS Ex. Body suits, control dresses....
SHAPEWEAR IN GERMANY CONTENTS Market & Market segments Trade channels Product characteristics Product marketing Buyer requirements Seasonality & Delivery Business practice Prices & Competitiveness
THE EU AND GERMAN MARKETShapewear MARKET SIZE – EU shapewear market € 1,076 million. – UK, Italy, France were largest markets – German share was 10%. – Spain, NL, Belgium, Poland, Sweden..... growing medium-sized EU markets. – In 2011 German the shapewear market € 180 million. – Representing 6.5% of intimates market (total: € 2,784 million).
THE GERMAN MARKETShapewear MARKET DEVELOPMENTS FAST GROWTH SINCE 2006 – More awareness among women of all ages. – Alternative to cosmetic surgery. – No longer feeling ashamed. – More variety in shapewear.
THE MARKETShapewear – Problem areas German consumers PROBLEMS – 85% shape of their belly. – 43% shape of their waist or hips. – 9% want to control their breasts. MOST POPULAR PRODUCTS – Belly High waist briefs, panty‟s and girdles. – Waist Waist clinchers and body‟s. – Bum/ Maxi briefs, long panty‟s, Legs leggings and pantyhoses
THE GERMAN MARKETShapewear – Market segments CONSUMERS– Middle aged and older women. Shapewear helps to wear dresses and other RTW clothing o Every day or formal occasions– Younger women. Shapewear helps to hide small defects, or to show their sensual curves. o When wearing tight clothing o Essential complement to their clothing wardrobe PRODUCTS– Functional shapewear that controls and enhance the body. Fabrics > 200 gram/m²– Fashionable shapewear that sculpts and smoothens the body. Fabrics < 200 gram/m²
THE GERMAN MARKETShapewear GROWING NICHES Bridal shapewear, e.g. body´s (breathable fabrics). Shapewear for specific situations, Maternity, Post-surgery. Sports shapewear in swimwear and fitnesswear. Health & Well-being e.g. for Thermal control or for an Improved body position. Shapewear for men e.g. tops and undershirts.
THE MARKETShapewear – Trends and Colours MARKET TRENDS - Return to healthier and fuller figures. - Need for Performance and Comfort. - Functional shapewear becomes more fashionable. - Fashionable shapewear becomes showy and sexier. - Worn as outerwear or as lingerie. - More expressive prints. PREFERRED COLOURS- Functional shapewear white, skin tones, pink, (light) blue, grey and black.- Fashionable shapewear depends on seasonal trends with many pastel colours.
THE MARKET - SUMMER FASHION 2013- High waist briefs - Body suits - Camisoles
THE MARKETShapewear – Forecast and Opportunities FORECAST – German retailers - 60% expand range and brands. – Shapewear is not a "fad’’. – More competition. OPPORTUNITIES – Flexible, breathable fabrics. – True specialisation. – Focus on niches. – Design • belly areas, • Using cuts/cut-outs, • using shaping-seams. – Organic shapewear • Beech fibres, bamboo, silk, latex.
TRADE CHANNELSShapewear – Channels for Bodywear (incl. Shapewear) IMPORTING MANUFACTURERS - Buy direct and sell direct - Sell to (importing) retailers (incl. home shopping). IMPORTING RETAILERS - Take up 80% of the market with dedicated manufacturers for private labels. IMPORTING WHOLESALERS - Operate per Nielsen area (8) also in Austria, CH, Eastern EU. NON- IMPORTING RETAILERS - Buy via traditional route Wholesalers, agents and from Importing manufacturers.
PRODUC CHARACTERISTICSShapewear – Product needs NEED FOR BETTER QUALITY: • Better shaping performance • Comfortable to wear • Easy to put the shapewear on/off • Perfect fit - after wearing them several times • Good design (fashionable shapewear). – Functional shapewear should be: • Light-weight • Not visible. Perfect !? It depends on the consumer and on what parts to control Ask what would be best for them.
PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICSShapewear – Comfort & Performance MORE COMFORT: - Lightweight material (ease of movement) - Pleasant feel (softer to wear) - Breathable material - Anti-moisture control technology. MORE PERFORMANCE: - Using material of an incredible elasticity. - Combinations of different material (polyamide, lycra..) and elastan.
PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICSShapewear – Sizes SIZES - The average German women is 1.68 cm tall, weights 67.5 kg. - Standard sizes in Germany range between 36 and 46. Most often for shapewear, the sizes S, M, L and XL are used, and sometimes XS and 2XL, or recently 2X up to 4X. Size Germany USA Cup XS/S 34/36 41-55 kg. 0-4 LBS 90 - 120 A-B-C S/M 38/40 41-55 kg. 0-6 LBS 90 - 120 A-B-C-D M/L 40/42 50-63 kg. 8-12 LBS 110-140 A-B-C-D-DD L/2XL 42/44 59-82 kg. 14-18 LBS 130-180 A-B-C-D-DD New 2X/3X 46/50 82-114 kg. 20-24 LBS 180-250 B-C-D-E-F New 3X/4X 52/54 104-129 kg. 26-30 LBS 230-285 B-C-D-E-F It is very important to point out to consumers to wear the right sizes. If the shapewear hurts, there is definitely something wrong. Tighter shapewear is not better, it can even be injurious!
PRODUCT MARKETINGShapewear - Presentation HOW TO PRESENT YOUR SHAPEWEAR? - In addition to Colombian reputation – What is your USP? - Special skills, material, designers, culture, music... Express to consumers by: - Instore material such as retail packaging, special labels, display racks, mobiles, posters, flyers, brochures etc.. - Outdoor presentation material being more expensive (billboards, on public transport) to increase awareness. Express to buyers (retailers, importing manuf.) by: - Fashionable shapewear collections in a „Sales Book’. - Interrelationship of shapewear with e.g. dresses, trousers jeans, pants, blouses, swimwear, footwear, jewellery etc.
PRODUCT MARKETINGShapewear - Communication THE MESSAGE - Use short to-the-point message. - Convincing by Problem, Solution and Testimonials - Must be in German. PROMOTION TOOLS – Website of a good quality – Advertising and publicity – Videos (YouTube) – Buzz via social networking site - Funny story contest – Promotion (gift vouchers, window displays etc.) – Networking with niche retailers – Celebrities or local designers – German re-looking, re-dressing programmes.
PRODUCT MARKETINGShapewear – Events and Trade shows MOST IMPORTANT TRADE SHOWS. – Wasche und mehr - for bodywear in Dortmund. – Dessous Wallau - for bodywear in Wallau. – CPD - the International Trade Fair for Womenswear and Accessories in Düsseldorf. – Munich Fabric Start, the fair for clothing fabrics. – Specific trade shows (health & well-being, medical...). Participate by yourself or with other parties. Or check the sites for a list of exhibitors (potential buyers).
BUYER REQUIREMENTSShapewear – Requirements to enter the German market LEGAL REQUIREMENTS – Safe to all consumers (Direction 2001/957EC). – Flame retardants (REACH Regulation EC 1907/2006). – Other REACH regulations concerning the use of : • Chemicals, Azo dyes, Organotin compounds or nonyl phenols ethoxylates. – Liability for defective products (sale of goods act 1979). Specifically for Germany: • Avoid the use of disperse dyes in textiles (hazardous to health). • Limited use of formaldehyde to make fabrics crease-resistant. NON-LEGAL REQUIREMENTS – The Environmental labels – Social labels (ISO 14001) – Private standards
BUYER REQUIREMENTSShapewear – Packaging and Labelling PACKAGING - Functional shapewear individually packed - Fashionable - Fancy and appealing boxes - Preferably in German, or in 4 languages - In lower segment sold on racks. - Most bras are also sold on racks. - Add convenience in distribution and Re-cycling in packaging LABELLING - On the article: fibre content, origin, size, washing instruction. - Additional quality labels or small booklets
SEASONALITY & DELIVERYShapewear – Delivery and Trends in Buyer behaviour DELIVERY AND TERMS – Due to the recession smaller orders and more frequently – Minimize the time-to-market and replenishment lead times for seasonal fashion products. – Typical lead-times: • Nearby countries 8 – 10 days. • Other continents 3 – 8 weeks. – Usually Inco terms are used – Payment for the first shipment is a letter of credit (L/C). – Some retailers insist on payment after delivery (usually 30 days). TRENDS IN BEHAVIOUR OF BUYERS OPPORTUNITIES Back-up suppliers Reduction of reliance on China Sense of cooperation and a need for more transparency.
BUSINESS PRACTICEShapewear – Contacts with clients CONTACTS WITH GERMAN CLIENTS – Right contact person – Contacts are by email, phone, skype (later SMS). – First formal approach in person, by e-mail or by phone. – German is highly appreciated. But, English is widely spoken. Russian (2nd) in the former eastern part. – Women in higher positions. – Say what you think. – Constant communication allows a sense of collaboration. – Track the arrival of the product.
PRICES & COMPETITIVENESSShapewear – Prices and Price setting Retail price of shapewear in Germany, 2012 RETAIL PRICES Brand Retail price Private label price - Middle and upper segments are less Corsette Chantelle € 33* price sensitive. Panty hose Kunert € 14 - 24 € 8 - 16 Panty Triumph € 42 – 70* € 14 - Willing to pay for a product/brand that Hanro € 60 makes them look good. Legging ShaToBu Spanx € 40 - 70 € 43 - Prices of private labels are much lower. High waist brief Triumph € 28 -40 € 16 - 22 Wolford € 44-120 Hanro € 50-150 PRICE SETTING AND ADJUSTMENTS Pro-booster Spanx € 99* - Your prices to buyers can be in FOB, Top / Camisole Triumph Hanro € 39 - 70 € 60 € 22 C&F or CIF. Magic body € 25-40 fashion - Import duties are between 0 and 12%. Body suit Triumph € 60 – 115* But reduction to 0% by GSP rates. Spanx Hanro € 50-110* € 80-120 - Note the currency risks – so adapt Body dress Triumph € 55 – 120* your quotations! Body skirt Triumph € 33* Bra push up Maidenform € 40-50 Bra super push up Spanx € 99* Bra minimizer Anita € 57
COMPETITIVENESSShapewear – Competitors (Countries and Players) MAIN SUPPLYING COUNTRIES – EU suppliers: Hungary, Austria, Netherlands... – Developing countries: China (all products), Indonesia (all products), Ukraine (corselets), Bangladesh (underwear, bras, girdles), Honduras (corselets, girdles), Morocco (underwear, girdles), Turkey (underwear, panty hoses, girdles), Mexico (corsets), Pakistan and Croatia. MAIN PLAYERS – Triumph (Swiss-owned) - combining function, innovation and style. – Spanx (US-owned) is a true shapewear specialist combining performance and fashionable sophistication. – Prima Donna, an intimates and shapewear specialist. – Anita (German-owned), a bodywear and shapewear specialist (see photo). – Wolford, Hanro, Magic Body Fashion, Wacoal, Maidenform and Yummie-Tummie. Growing competition with new specialised entrants. But also with swimwear, lingerie and clothing companies/fashion houses and retailers introducing shapewear.
CONCLUSIONSShapewear Fast growing market among German women of all ages who become more aware. Obesity is still growing. The belly and waist are the main parts of the body to be controlled. High-waist briefs, panty’s, girdles, waist clinchers and multi-shapers most in demand. Choose your segment - Functional, Fashionable, combination – or to focus on niches. Competition intensifies in the lower end of the market. But consumers want better quality. Fabric technology, new product functions will be crucial for success. Fabric innovation combined with fashion trends at an affordable price will PERFECTLY respond to the growing demand.
“To do better is better than to be perfect.”
TRADE CHANNELSShapewear – Positioning of main retailers – Most in the lower and value (middle) level of the market. – Main are Hunkemöller (134) and Triumph (108). – Discounters Aldi (4,000) and Lidl (3,260), mainly functional shapewear. – Calida Group (161 outlets) specialised underwear retailer.
SEASONALITY & DELIVERYShapewear - Seasons COLLECTIONS PER YEAR – Functional shapewear is sold throughout the whole year and has a long lifecycle. – Fashionable shapewear follows the spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons of apparel. ACTUAL SEASON Show Season Selling Season Delivery date -S pring – April, May, J une September / October August / September / January to April -Summer – J August, uly, October S eptember - Autumn (Fall) – October, February / March February / March / J / August / uly November, December April September - Winter – January, February, March - Holiday (formals / Christmas/ June / July October / New Year) November / - Cruise / Resort (for travelling and holidays) SEASONS – Two fashion seasons are sometimes adjusted by mid-season additions e.g. for Valentine‟s day or Christmas. – Usual retailers‟ selling out seasons are in summer (August - September) and in winter (December through February).