Beijing 360° - panoramic photo album

北京 360˚ 方天梦 Tamas D. Varga text by 余泽民 Beijing 360˚ 全景印象 Panoramic impressions

北京 D·瓦尔伽·托马士 Tamas D. Varga 北京360˚ Beijing 360˚ 配文 text by 余泽民 Yu Zemin 出版社 Published by 360°艺术公司 360Art Kft. 装贴设计 Design 胡尔顿·托马士 Tamás Hurton

鸣谢我愿在此衷心感谢所有使我得以完成这本图册朋友们。我更是深深地感谢我的北京朋友亮罗，他那些绝妙的建议和丰富的当地知识使我在寻找激动人心的场面和创造我的全景图像的全部过程中自始至终助得益蜚浅。 Acknowledgement I would like to express my gratitude to all those who gave me the possibility to complete this album. I am deeply indebted to my friend in Beijing, Luo Liang 亮罗 whose help, stimulating suggestions and local knowledge helped me in all the time of search for exciting places and composing panoramic images of my panoramic vista.

北京 Author D. Varga Tamás 作者 D·瓦尔伽·托马士 Photos D. Varga Tamás 摄影 D·瓦尔伽·托马士 Text Yu Zemin 配文余泽民 Translation Garry Guan 英文翻译关学君 Panorama creation D. Varga Tamás 全景创意 D·瓦尔伽·托马士 Graphic design Hurton Tamás, Ciceró Stúdió Bt. 装贴设计胡尔顿·托马士，Cicer ó工作室 Prepress Hurton Tamás, Dame Vanda, Ciceró Stúdió Bt. 胡尔顿·托马士，朵麦·汪妲，Ciceró工作室 Editor D. Varga Tamás 编辑 D·瓦尔伽·托马士 Prepress Ciceró Stúdió Bt. 制作 Ciceró 工作室 cicerostudio@enternet.hu Executive publishers Bertényi István, D. Varga Tamás 出版负责人拜里尼·伊什特万，D·瓦尔伽·托马士 Published by 360 Art Kft. beijing360@360art.hu 出版社 360°艺术公司 beijing360@360art.hu 美国亚美语言服务公司关学君和夏立奇提供本图册中英文翻译。 Chinese-English translations provided by Mr. Garry Guan and Mr. Anthony Awsariti of Asian American Language Services (AALS) © 360 Art Kft., Budapest, 2007. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any material form or by any means, including photocopying, image scanning, storing or recording by any means in any form nor broadcasting or transmission through any medium of any part of this publication by electronic means and whether or not transiently or incidentally to some other use of this publication, without the express written consent of the copyright owner. 版权 © 360 Art Kft., Budapest, 2007. 版权所有在没有获得版权拥有者书面许可的情况下，严禁以任何方式利用、复印或以电脑途径呈示本画册内的完整或局部作品以及附属资料，严禁以任何形式和任何方式——电子、机械、拍摄或其他方式——进行复制或储入资料系统。修订版 ISBN: 978-963-87337-1-9

献辞我谨将这部画册献给我的爱妻维拉，并希望有朝一日她能造访中国，亲眼看看这部画册中所拍摄所描述的那些地方。序每当我为了拍摄这部全景摄影画册而飞往北京的时候，总是忍不住赞叹凌空鸟瞰到的绚烂晨曦。“东方红”果然名不虚传。怀着探索古代时光痕迹的初衷，我风尘仆仆地来到这里，见到的却是一座日新月异地、高度现代化的大都市。我每次重返北京，都会为这座城市面貌的瞬息万变而惊诧不已。. 对我来说，除了采集全景摄影景点之外，了解京城市民生活也同等重要。他们的确热情好客。（请翻到本画册的第51页阅读“水书” 章节的描述）。用全景展现周围环境，其实并非现代人的独特发明。这种艺术表现手法，也并非源于摄影技术。全景画的历史已有数百年之久。综观人类的漫长历史，试图表现、展示、描绘和拍摄我们周围环境的渴望自古存在。想想西班牙阿尔塔米拉山洞（Altamira）与法国南部拉斯考克山洞（Lascaux ）的壁画以及卢索克的墓壁画便可略知一二。可以这样说，这些画是人类借用广角的形式捕捉事件和全景空间的原始范例。中国画也不乏全景画的例证。虽然人们最熟悉的是那些立式卷轴挂图，然而早在宋代，就出现了许多巨幅的全景画卷。其中包括夏圭的逾十米的横幅长卷《长江万里图》和张择端的《清明上河图》。我真心希望，我用最新数码技术所拍摄的现代全景摄影，能够获得热烈的反响。通过此前出版发行的全景摄影画册——《布达佩斯360°》以及《匈牙利360°》，我旨在对全景摄影重新定义。人们通常所理解的全景，是一种广角和深地平线的图像；而我认为，您并不一定非要站在制高点上感受周围的全景空间。在360度的空间里，对那些唾手可得的物件和融化在地平线里的图形元素的全方位审视，对我来说已经创造出绝佳的构图。 Tamás D. Varga 并非所有的景点都适合于全景摄影，因此我们的画册也并不想循规蹈矩，并不想受制于那些约定成俗的预期性主题。方天梦通过我的摄影画册，我希望能让更多的读者熟悉中国的首都——北京；同时还让那些对这个城市已了如指掌了的北京人，也能换一个崭新的视角欣赏那些传统景点。这部画册借助将立体空间折置于一个平面之上的360度全景镜头技术，向您展示出许多鲜为人知的细节和奇妙氛围。欢迎您前来造访www.beijing360.cn网站，与我们共同分享新的探索与新的发现。

Dedication I dedicate this album to my wife, Vera, in the hope that one day she would be able to come to China to visit the places photographed and described in this album. Introduction Whenever I flew to Beijing to work on this panoramic photo album I admired the colours of the morning sky from the air. The East was always red indeed. I came with the desire to discover the remains of ancient times and encountered a bustling city modernising at high speed. Whenever I returned I was amazed by the changes of the cityscape. While I collected panoramic impressions of places, residents of Beijing were equally important to me. And they were very welcoming indeed. (Please turn to page 51 and read the water calligraphy text). Panoramic representation of the surroundings is not an invention of the modern age. Nor has this art form just originated with photography. It has been with us over centuries in pictography. The desire to show, display, paint and photograph the space around us is as old as mankind. Just think of the cave paintings of Altamira and Lascaux as well as the tomb frescos in Luxor. These paintings, which can be seen as the original examples of panoramic format, captured events and spaces in wide angle. Chinese painting formats are great examples of panoramic representation also. Most familiar are the hanging vertical scrolls. However, many large size panorama paintings were also created during the Song Dynasty including Xia Kui's more than 10 meters long horizontal scroll portraying the Yangze riverside and Zhang Zeduan's Qingming Shanghe Tu. I very much hope that modern panoramic photography taken with the latest digital technology will be met with a warm response. With the previously released album, Budapest 360°, as well as with the publication of Hungary 360°, I aimed at redefining the notion of panoramic photography. The common understanding of panorama involves an image of wide angle and deep horizon. However, I believe that you do not have to stand on a summit to sense the space surrounding you as a panoramic unit. In a space of 360 degrees the overall view of objects in your reach and elements melting into the horizon creates the perfect composition for me. Not all sites have the makings of a good scene for a panoramic photograph, and therefore our album Tamás D.Varga does not follow the common and perhaps expected themes of similar endeavors. Fang TianMen With my photo album I would like to acquaint visitors with the capital of China, Beijing and reacquaint 360 Art Ltd the citizens, who already know the city well with some famous sites. This album reveals lesser known details and atmosphere with the assistance of the 360 degree panorama lens technology which bends space onto a surface. We will make new discoveries together when you visit www.beijing360.cn.

长城是世界上修建时间最长、工程量最大的古代防御工程。自公元前七世纪的春秋战国时期，直到最后帝国的满清王朝，前 1. 长城断想后修筑了两千多年，总计长达五万多公里。 Thoughts on The Great Wall is the most massive ancient defensive engineering structure in the world, both in terms of time spent in building it and its sheer size. Beginning in the 7th century B.C.E. during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods down to the last two dynasties of the Ming and Qing, the Wall was built over a period of more than 2,000 years and has a length of over 50,000 the Great Wall kilometers. 金山岭长城距京城一百三十公里，位于密云，自古是兵家必争之地。城关相连，敌楼相望，重城护卫，射界交叉，这十里残 2. 金山岭垣保持了四百年前明长城的原貌。 The Golden Ridge The Golden Ridge segment of the Great Wall is 130 kilometers from Beijing in Miyun District. From ancient times it has been a strongly contested military area. This 5 kilometer remnant of the Wall with it gates, its outlook towers, its added outer defense wall meant to impede cavalry horses and its field of fire for archers has retained the appearance of the Ming Wall of some 400 years ago. 3. 司马台明代司马台长城距离京城一百二十公里，位于密云，长十九公里，烽火台三十五座，构思新巧，惊险雄奇，被联合国教科文组织列为“世界文化遗产”。 Simatai—Great Wall The Simatai section of the Great Wall, dating from the Ming dynasty, is located 120 kilometers from Beijing in Miyun and stretches 19 kilometers in length with 35 watchtowers. Its design is ingenious and the vista breathtaking. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. 川底下是隐匿在西山峡谷中的古老村落。依山而建，层层升高，瓦顶错落，小巷盘曲，至今神化般保存着七十余套、五百多间 4. 古村明清时代的四合院民居，是保存完整的北京古建筑群。 An Ancient Village Chuandixia (“Below-the-River”) is an ancient village hiddend away in the Xishan Valley. It was built against a mountainside and rises up in stages with tiled roofs all over and small, twisting alleyways. Miraculously, more than 70 courtyard homes with over 500 rooms dating from the Ming and Qing period (1368-1911 CE) have survived. The village is a perfectly preserved ancient Beijing construction complex. 四合院是北京民居的传统形式，是由东西南北四面房子围合起来的庭院式住宅，最早可追溯到商周时代，成型于汉代，到了唐 5. 老宅宋，四合院住宅已很盛行。 An Old Residence The courtyard house is the traditional Beijing dwelling. It is composed of a central courtyard surrounded by rooms on the four points of the compass. The earliest examples of this design go back to the Shang and Zhou dynasty period (1766-256 BCE) taking final shape during the Han (206 BCE- 220 CE) and reaching its high point during the Tang and Song dynasties (618-1127 CE). 川底下的木窗木门多采用木本色，木雕多为质地细密、以花卉、图案和文字为主的硬木透雕，古朴雅致，精美细腻。尤其在 6. 窗影日出日落，光影变化，妙趣无常。 Shadows Through The windows and doors in Chuandixia mostly use the wood itself for color, and the fine carving is mostly done in flowers, pictures and Chinese characters in hardwood fretwork. The style is simple the Windows and elegant, exquisite and delicate. Especially at sunrise and sunset, the light and shadow alternate producing a charming and mysterious display. 龙庆峡位于延庆县东北部，距离市区八十五公里，既有南方的灵秀，又有北方的雄浑，人称“小漓江”、“小三峡”。那里的 7. 冰宫夏日气温要比城里低6.4度，是天然的避暑胜地。 The Ice Palace The Longqingxia is located in the northeast part of Yanqing County, 85 kilometers from the urban area. With its delicate and beautiful northern topograpy and its strong and virile southern portion, it is know as the “Little Li River” and the “Little Three Gorges.” During the summer months the temperature there is 6.4 degrees cooler than in the city, a naturally air-conditioned refuge against the heat. 银山塔林位于昌平县北部，现存古塔十八座，其中金、元两代的墓塔七座（12-14世纪），塔高均在30米左右，比少林寺、灵 8. 银山塔林岩寺的墓塔还要高大。 The Yinshan The Yinshan Pagoda Forest is located in the northern part of Changping County. Today, 18 ancient pagodas remain, and of those seven are tomb pagodas dating from the Jin and Yuan dynasties Pagoda Forest (12th-14th centuries). The pagodas average some 30 meteres in height, taller than the tomb pagodas of the Shaolin and Lingyan Temples.

平谷县有一个面积16.8万亩的梦幻桃园，被列入了“世界吉尼斯记录”。这里产桃两百多种，年产总量上亿公斤。最大的桃子一公斤一个， 9. 蟠桃园一个就能卖一百欧元！ Garden of Immortal Pinggu County is home to a fantasy-like peach orchard of some 16.8 hectares and has been listed in the Guiness World Records. There are over two hundred varieties of peach grown here with Peaches a yearly yield of over 100 million kilograms. The biggest peaches are one kilogram each and a single one sells for as much as 100 euros! 卢沟桥建于金末（1189年-1192年），桥长266.5米，桥栏雕有501只石狮，桥下11孔。1937年7月7日日军在这里发动侵略进攻，史称 10. 明月吟 “卢沟桥事变”。 The Moon’s Lament The Marco Polo Bridge (“Lugou Bridge”) was built during the late Jin, Dynasty (1189-1192 CE). It has a length of 266.5 meters with 501 stone lions carved on its baustrades and eleven arches. On July 7, 1937, the Japanese army began its invasion of China here. This is known to history as the “Marco Polo Incident.” 颐和园坐落在北京西郊，是清代的皇家花园和行宫，动工于1750年，前后建了十四年，占地两百九十公顷，由万寿山、昆明湖、后山后湖组 11. 禅境成，集粹了中国古典园林艺术的精华。 The Realm of Quiet The Summer Palace (Yiheyuan) is situated in the western outskirts of Beijing. During the Qing dynasty it was the royal garden and served as the “traveling palace” (xinggong) when the Emperor was away from the capital. Work began on the structure in 1750 and took 14 years to complete. It occupies 290 hectares and is composed of Longevity Hill, Kunming Lake, Back Hill and Back Contemplation Lake. The Summer Palace is an exquisite and perfect example of the traditional art of Chinese gardening. 颐和园苏州街，地处后山后湖。岸边开有茶馆、糕点铺、当铺、钱庄、药店、印书局等。街内使用清式铜钱进行模拟交易，再 12. 雪霁笛声现了两百年前的商业文化。 The Sound of a Flute Suzhou Market St. at the Summer Palace is located in the Back Hill and Back Lake area. On either side of the lake are tea houses, pastry shops, pawn shops, banks, pharmacies and printing shops. After a Snowfall Here business is conducted using Qing dynasty style copper coins as in days gone by, and commerce flourishes once again as it did two hundred years ago. 正月十五，北京人不仅吃象征“团圆美满”的元宵，还举办热闹的灯节。灯节始自汉代，兴于盛唐，明朝的灯会长达十天！元 13. 元宵节宵节赏灯是恋爱的佳机，是古代中国的情人节。 The Lantern Festival On the 15th of the First Lunar month Beijingers not only eat the yuanxiao dumplings made from glutinous rice that symbolize a “happy family reunion,” they also stage the lively Lantern Festival. The Lantern Festival has its origins in the Han dynasty, and reached its height in the Booming Tang dynasty. During the Ming dynasty, the festivities continued for ten days! Enjoying the lanterns during the festival is also a great time for romance and traditionally was a kind of Chinese Valentines Day. 14. 罗汉皇帝碧云寺位于香山东麓，始建于元代（1331年），原为碧云庵。明代改庵为寺，清乾隆年间再次扩建，兴建了金刚宝座塔、行宫和罗汉堂。 The Arhat Emperor Biyun Temple is on the eastern slope of Fragrant Hill. Construction began during the Yuan dynasty (in 1331) and it was originally was knows as the Biyun Monastery (an). During the Ming dynasty it became a temple and in the reign of Qianlong during the Qing it was once again expanded when the pagoda, temporary Palace and Hall of the Arhat were built. 15. 衣冠冢金刚宝座塔位于碧云寺的最高处，通高34.7米，下部砌两层虎皮石基座，其上建塔。塔全部用华丽的汉白玉砌成。孙中山先生的衣冠冢就立在这里。 Personal Effects Tomb The “Diamond Cutter Throne” pagoda at Biyun is 34.7 meters highand is located at the highest point of Biyun Temple. Its base is contructed on two layers of “tiger skin stone.” The pagoda itself is built entirely of white marble. It is the repository of Sun Yat-sen’s personal effects tomb. 颐和园取“颐养太和”之意，是清代皇帝的行宫。园内种满桃花、海棠、牡丹、玉兰。每到春天，皇帝就离开紫禁城到颐和 16. 与春天合影园赏春怡性，听奏勤政。 Spring Photos The Summer Palace, or “Yiheyuan,” takes its meaning from the phrase “nurtured (yiyang) harmony (taihe) garden (yuan).” During the Qing dynasty was the temporary Imperial Palace (xinggong) used when the Emperor was away from the capital. The park is planted with flowering peach, and crab-apple, peony and magnolia trees. Each spring the Emperor would leave the Forbidden City and travel to the Summer Palace to appreciate the joy of celebrating spring and conduct government affairs.

昆明湖在万寿山南麓，约占颐和园总面积的四分之三。湖中有一座南湖岛，由十七孔桥与湖岸相连。清朝光绪皇帝和慈禧太后 17. 绿岛的寝宫，均建在昆明湖畔。 Green Island Kunming Lake is on the southern foot of Logevity Hill and occupies about 3/4 of the total land area of the Summer Palace. Nanhu Island is in the middle of the lake and it joined to the bank of the lake by a 17-arch bridge. The bedroom palaces of the Qing Emperor Guanxu and the Empress Dowager are both on the shores of Kunming Lake. 鼓楼位于京城南北中轴线的北端，建于明永乐十八年（1424年），是明清都城的报时中心。现在它已失去司时的功用，仍默 18. 京仙默地为北京涌来逝去的岁月作证。 Fairy God of Beijing The Drum Tower is located at the northern end of the north-south axis of the city. It was constructed in 1424 during the the Yongle period of the Ming dynasty and was the center for telling time for the city during both the Ming and Qing dynasties. It has now lost its time-telling function but remains a silent witness to the months and years that the capital city has seen. 北京人讲吃善吃。几百年来，他们依仗国都的便利，将各地风味都汇粹到这里。好吃的游客，既可去彻夜挑灯的簋街，也能 19. 太后迎宾去“老字号”济济的大栅栏。 The Empress Welco- Beijingers are fond of their food. For several hundred years they have relied on the covenience of living in the capital city to have the best of food from throughout the country brought here. Tourists mes Customers interested in good food and good eating can go to the all-night lantern festooned Gui Street. for restaurants or to the “time tested” shops in the busy Dashanlan section. 北京的胡同起源于元代，最多时达六千余条，宽的可以走并排马车，窄的只能侧身而过。长安街以北的每条胡同，都跟八百年 20. 消逝中前的元大都有关。胡同活着，元大都就活着…… Fading Away Beijing hutongs date from the Yuan dynasty and at their height numbered more than six thousand. The broader ones were able to accommodate horse-drawn vehicles side by side, the narrower ones were just large enough for a person to sqeeze through sideways. The hutongs north of Chang’an Street. all relate to the original Yuan capital area, Dadu (“Great Capital”), of some eight hundred years ago. As long as the hutongs exist, so does Dadu.... 坐着三轮车逛胡同，是了解老北京文化和风土人情的绝好形式。京城里的胡同数以千计，许多古巷狭窄弯曲，偏僻难寻。三轮 21. 三轮车车为寻找老北京的踪迹提供了方便。 The Pedicab Riding a pedicab through the hutongs is a wonderful way to understand the culture and local customs of Old Beijing. There are thousands of hutongs in the city. Many of the ancient alleys are narow and winding, out of the way and hard to find. 胡同是随元大都一起在一片荒野上建起来的老北京文化，它是否将随着北京的现代化建设而沉入历史的海底？这不仅是北京人 22. 胡同与井的忧虑，也是所有热爱北京之人的忧虑。 Hutongs and Wells Hutongs are a part of Old Beijing culture that were built on an open piece of land, as was the Yuan capital itself. Will they sink beneath the waves of history as the building design of Beijing’s modernizes? This is a worry not just for Beijingers, but for all those who love the city. 北京的茶庄兴起于清代，客人们不出城门，就能买到全国各地的名茶。小茶庄巴掌见方，大茶庄俨如药铺；到了现代，茶庄更 23. 茶庄趋多元化，成了集茶文化之大全的“茶超市”。 Tea Shop Tea shops became popular in Beijing during the Qing dynasty. Without having to leave the city walls, guests could buy tea from anywhere in China. Small shops were tiny little places just big enough to turn around in, large ones were just like the traditional herbal medicine shops. Today tea shops are getting even more diversified and have become tea supermarkets that pull together all the elements of the tea culture. 老舍茶馆位于前门西大街三号，营业面积两千六百平米，是以著名作家老舍及其剧名命名的、京味十足的传统茶馆。这里不仅 24. 大茶馆是艺人、票友的聚会场所，也是八方游客的慕名地。 The Tea House The Lao She Tea House is located at No. 3, Xidajie, Qianmen and covers an area of 2,600 sq. meters. It is named after the famous playwright Lao She and his play and is a traditional Beijing-style tea house. Not only a place where artists and amateur actors and actresses of the Beijing opera gather, the tea house draws people from all over, attracted by its reputation.

琉璃厂位于宣武区和平门外，是从清初开始形成的古玩字画、古籍碑帖和文房四宝的集散地。后来店铺越开越多，人气越来越 25. 琉璃厂大，逐渐成为老城内最火的古玩街。 Liulichang Liulichang is located in the Xuanwu District outside of Hepingmen (“Peace Gate”). Begining in the early Qing dynasty it was a commercial center for antiques, calligraphy, old books, stone rubbings and the traditional “four treasures of the study”: writing brushes, ink sticks, paper and ink stones. Subsequently the number of stores continued to multiply, became increasingly popular and gradually transformed into the most lively antiques street within the old city. 北京最早的鬼市有南北两个：南市在崇文门外，北市在德胜门外。战乱期间，城门晚开，于是搬到了什刹海，这个鬼市至今可 26. 鬼市寻。现在最有名的鬼市在东华门、大栅栏和潘家园。 The Ghost Market At the very beginning Beijing had two ghost markets, a southern market, outside the Chongwen Gate, and a northern market outside the Desheng Gate. During wartime since the gates of city were opened late in the morning, the markets were moved to Shichahai, which can still be found today. The most well-known ghost markets now are those at Donghumen, Dashanlan and Panjiayuan. 东华门夜市开在王府井北口，是京城最火的小吃街，每夜食客滚滚，美味飘香。如今的北京人足不出门，就能吃便天下，以至 27. 夜市本来老司空见惯的京城小吃，反成了偶尝的美食。 The Night Market The Donghua Gate night market is at the northern entrance to Wangfujing Street, the Capital’s most lively street for eating snacks. Each night visitors roll in as the wonderful fragrance of the food wafts on the evening breezes. Modern Beijingers can eat anything they want from the convenience of their home without ever stepping out of the door so that Beijing snacks, once commonplace, have now become a culinary treat eaten only ocassionally. 王府井是北京有名的商业区。明代这里修起十座王府，街的南端有一眼甜井，因此被称为王府井。1903年，这里兴建了规模巨 28. 围城大的“东安市场”，从此成为京城最繁华的地段。 Fortress Besieged Wangfujing is Beijing’s well known commercial district. During the Ming dynasty ten princely residences (wangfu) were built here and at the southern end of the street was a fresh water well (jing), thus the area was called “wangfujing.” In 1903 the huge “Dong’an Market” was built and from that time onward this became the Capital’s most wealthy and luxurious area. 同升和鞋店是最享盛名的百年老字号，1902年在在天津开业，主要经营帽子和布鞋；1932年，北京同升和店在繁华的王府井大 29. 鞋店春秋街开业，至今仍是京华名店。 The Story of a Shoe Shop The Tongshengde shoe shop enjoys a reputation as one of the most famous “century-old brands” around. It began in 1902 in Tianjin primarily manufacturing hats and shoes. In 1932 the Beijing branch opened in the flourishing Wangfujing Street. and remains today one of the famous stores in the nation’s capital. 北海公园位于京城的心脏，从辽至清修建了五朝。整个园林根据古代神话中的“一池三神山”构思布局，富有浓厚的梦幻色 30. 晨练彩。1915年辟为公园。 Early Morning Exercises Beihai Park is located in the heart of the capital and was rebuilt by each of the five successive dynasties from the Liao to the Qing. The garden as a whole is laid out as a “pond with the three Legendary Mountains,” rich in its sense of illusion and reverie. It was developed as a park in 1915. 北京有名的藏饰店有好几家，最聚人气的当属开在后海烟袋斜街的“天堂之约西藏风情”，拐个弯就是银锭桥。每天进出小店 31. 天堂之约的都是从藏饰中寻找时尚感觉的酷男倩女。 An Appointment There are many famous shops in Beijing selling Tibetan jewelry. The most popular is probably the “Appointment with Heaven” shop in Houhai on “Tobacco Pipe Street” (Yandai xiejie) right around With Heaven the corner from the Yinding Bridge. Everyday the little shop is patronized by stylish men and women looking to keep up with fashion through Tibetan jewelry. 湖广会馆位于宣武区，建于清代（1807年），不仅在梨园史上声名显赫，1912年8月25日，孙中山还在这里主持召开了国民党 32. 大戏院成立大会。湖广会馆与京城最老的“广德楼”一样，至今鼓乐不断，名角汇粹 The Grand Theater The Hu-Guang Guild Hall is located in the Xuanwu District and was built during the Qing dynasty in 1807. Not only famous in the history of Being opera, on August 25, 1912 SunYat-sen held the inaugural meeting of the Nationalist Party here. The Guild Hall, like Beijing’s oldest theater, the “Guangdelou,” continues to stage musical performances pulling together all the best actors and actresses.

潘家园旧货市场位于三环路东南角，是全国最大的“鬼市”。市场占地近五万平米，摊位、铺面三千多个，每周只开放周末两 33. 淘宝族乐园日，日流量多达十万人，光外国淘客就能上万。 The Flea Market The Panjiayuna flea market is located on the southeast corner of the 3rd Ring Road. It is the biggest “ghost market” in the country. The market occupies close to 50 thousand square meters with more than 3,000 stalls or shop fronts. The market is only open on weekends but is visited by some 100 thousand people each day, the number of foreign visitors alone numbering in the tens of thousands. 天坛，是北京城内最美的踏春地。早春时节，玉兰绽放，丁香如浪，海棠茂盛，杏林飞红。春日下，沧桑的古柏抖掉霜雪， 34. 赏春染上一层茸茸的新绿。 Springtime The Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) is the most beautiful place in Beijing to experience the arrival of spring. During the early part of the season the magnolias come into bloom, the lilacs come in waves, the flowering crab apple trees are luxuriant and the apricot trees are dotted with their red flowers. Under the spring sun the ancient cypress trees have shaken off the frost and snow and have put on a new green coat. 北京园林美不胜收。大的有皇朝气魄的天坛、北海、颐和园，小的有私家宅院的后花园。在新北京的摩天商厦之间，还掩映着 35. 月亮河越来越多象菖蒲河公园这样禅意道境的街心花园。 Moon River Beijing gardens are beautiful beyond compare. Large gardens include the imperial parks like Tiantan, Beihai and the Summer Palace, smaller ones are the rear gardens of private courtyard homes. And hidden away among modern Beijing’s skyscrapers is an increasing number of street gardens like the Changpu River Park with its Zen and Taoist atmosphere. 老北京习惯把皇宫左右叫“皇城根儿”，至今还有“东皇城根儿”、“ 西皇城根儿”的地名。护城河畔，清晨有人偷偷钓 36. 皇城根儿鱼；最美的，是礼花中角楼倒映在河面上的彩影。 The Foot of the Wall Old Beijingers habitually refer to the left and right sides of the Imperial Palace as “Huangcheng gen er,” or “Foot of the Imperial Wall.” Today they still use the terms “East Foot of the Wall” and “West Foot of the Wall.” In the early morning people can be seen secretly fishing on the banks of the moat. A most beautiful sight is the colorful reflection on the water of the watchtower bathed (“Huangcheng gen er”) in fireworks. 紫禁城是明清两代的皇宫，占地七十二万平方米，是世界上最大的宫殿。始建于1406年，建成于1420年。先后有二十四位皇帝 37. 紫禁城居住，末代皇帝溥仪于1924年11月5日凄然离宫。 The Forbidden City The Forbidden City was the Imperial Palace during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It occupies an area of 720 thousand sq. meters and is the largest palace in the world. Begun in 1406, it was finished in 1420. All together, 24 Emperors lived there. The last Emperor, Pu Yi, made his sad and tragic exit from the Palace on November 5, 1924. 故宫总面积七十二万平方米，但目前开放的区域只有三十万平方米。也就是说，游人虽然走断了腿，也只看到宫墙内的一小部 38. 紫禁城的秘密分秘密。比如承乾宫的梨花院，花开花落，寂寞无主。 The Secrets of The Imperial Palace has a total area of 720,000 sq. meters but currently only 300,000 sq. meters are open to the public. That is to say, after walking their legs off, visitors will have only seen a the Forbidden City small portion of the secrets contained within the Palace walls. . . . while in the Pear Flower Garden of the Chengqian Palace the flowers bloom and fall, forlorn and abandoned. 法源寺位于宣武门外，占地面积六千七百平米，自唐朝至今已有一千三百年历史，不仅是京城历史最悠久的千年古刹，也是中 39. 法源寺国佛学院和中国佛教图书文物馆所在地。 The Fayuan The Fayuan Temple (“Temple of the Origin of the Dharma”) is located outside the Xuanwu Gate and occupies an area of 6,700 sq. meters. With a history of 1,300 years stretching back to the Buddhist Temple Tang dynasty, it is not only the oldest temple in Beijing, it is the home of the Chinese Buddhist Academy and the Relic Hall of Chinese Buddhism Books. 大观园是清代文学家曹雪芹的小说《红楼梦》中所描写的、为贾妃元春省亲而修的别墅。北京大观园是1984年为拍摄电影《红 40. 大观园楼梦》设计修建，院落布局、甚至亭台小景均有出处。 The Daguanyuan The Daguanyuan was described in the novel The Dream of the Red Chamber by the Qing novelist Cao Xueqin and was the country villa constructed for he concubine Jia Yuanchun to visit her parents. The Beijing Daguanyuan was designed and built in 1984 for the movie, The Dream of the Red Chamber. The general layout of the open court area and even the small pavilions and plat- forms are all designs right out of the novel.

世界公园位于丰台区，距市中心十六公里，占地五十公顷。公园景区按五大洲布局，水系模仿四大洋形状。世界名胜均按 41. 袖珍世界 1:10的比例微缩，精细逼真。不出国界，一览乾坤。 The World in The World Park is located in the Fengtai District, 16 kilometers from city center, and occupies 50 hectares. The Park is laid out in the form of five continents with water imitating the four oceans. Miniature The world’s famous scenic spots are build on a 1:10 ratio in detailed and realistic miniature. Without leaving the country, you can see the whole world. 42. 798 “798时态空间”是北京新兴的大山子艺术区（原国营798军工厂）内面积最大、空间最高、前卫时尚的现代文化、艺术、商业空间。 798 Space „798 Space” (originally Armament Factory No. 798) is in the new art district of Dashanzi It is the largest avant-garde, modern culture, art and commercial space in the city. 中国的摇滚萌芽于北京，北京的摇滚先驱是《一无所有》的崔健。1994年，“魔岩三杰”和唐朝乐队在香港红堪体育馆的“摇 43. 摇滚婴儿滚中国势力演唱会”，是中国摇滚最辉煌的瞬间。 Baby Rockers Chinese rock began in Beijing. The pioneer of Beijing rock is Cui Jian, who shot to startdom in 1985 when he performed “Nothing to My Name” on a television talent show. The crowning moment of Chinese rock came in 1994 at the Hong Kong Hung Hom Coliseum (now the Hong Kong Coliseum) when the “Three Heroes of Magic Stone Records,” He Yong, Zhang Chu and Dou Wei, and the band “Tang Dynasty” performed at the “Rock China!” concert. 北京的鱼市有许多家，位于天桥闹市的“华声天桥民俗文化市场”内的鱼市虽然不是最大最老的，但是最火的一家。每日平 44. 鱼市均人流量达五万人。 Fish Market There are many Beijing fish shops. Although the fish market in the “Huasheng Tianqiao Folk Culture Market” in the busy Tianqiao District is not the biggest or oldest fish market, it is the most popular. An average of 50,000 people visit it each day. 地坛，是京城仅次于天坛的第二大坛，始建于明代（1530年），是皇帝祭祀社稷地神的场所。地坛的春节庙会，则是京城人气 45. 庙会最旺的民俗节，热闹非常。 The Temple Fair The Temple of the Earth (“Ditan”) is second only to the Temple of Heaven in Beijing and was built during the Ming dynasty (in 1530). It was where the Emperor performed the sacrifices to the gods of the earth and the grains. The Spring Temple Fair at the Temple of Earth is the most lively of the year. 京城的秋季，如流彩的调色板，火辣的枫叶、橘红的黄栌、金灿的白杨、淡黄的柳枝、松柏的常青和红墙绿瓦上湛蓝的晴空。 46. 金秋秋风吹过，阳光泻下，随着落叶摔成细碎的光。 Golden Autumn The Beijing autumn is like a flowing color pallete—fire red maple leaves, orange smoketrees, the white poplar trees sparkling with gold, the pale yellow of the willow trees, the evergreen of the pines and cypresses and the the deep blue sky above the red walls and green tile. An autumn breeze comes up, and the sun’s rays are broken into tiny slivves by the falling leaves. 中华世纪坛是为迎接千禧年而建，位于京西，由主体结构、青铜甬道、圣火广场、世纪大厅、艺术大厅、过街桥组成。二百七 47. 世纪坛十米的青铜甬道镌刻了中华民族的文明纪年。 The China Century Altar The China Century Altar was built to welcome in the new milleneum and is located in the western part of Beijing. It is a central structure with a Bronze Path, Sacred Fire, Century Hall, an Art Hall and connecting bridge. The 270 meter Bronze Path is engraved with a record of Chinese civilization. 玲珑塔位于西八里庄，建于明代1576年，是八角型密檐式砖塔，十三层，六十米高。原来寺院早化为灰烬，但与不远处造型洗 48. 玲珑塔秘史练、高耸入云的北京电视塔遥相呼应，别有意味。 The Secret History of The Linglong Pagoda is in West Balizhuang and was built during the Ming dynasty (in 1576). It was an octagonal, multi-eaves style brick pagoda with 13 storeys, 60 meters tall. The temple once the Linglong Pagoda the pagoda belonged to has long since been reduced to ashes but the ruins make an interesting juxtaposition to the clean lines of the CCTV broadcast tower not far away that soars into the sky.

天坛位于天安门东南。始建于明代1420年，是皇帝祭祀上天、祈求丰收礼仪场所。祈年殿高三十八米，直径三十二米，宝顶鎏 49. 天坛金，琉璃瓦蓝，三重檐亭，富丽堂皇。 Temple of Heaven The Temple of Heaven is southeast of Tiananmen. Construction began in 1420 during the Ming dynasty and this was the temple where the Emperor made sacrifices to Heaven and prayed for bountiful harvests. The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest is 38 meters high with a diameter of 32 meters. It has a gilded roof, blue glazed tiles, three layers of eves and is an magnificent and impressive structure. 书法，是中国美术之魂，是人、笔、纸、墨的美妙协奏。人借笔，写字言情；纸借墨，岁月留情。传统书法，旨在追求时空中 50. 水书的永恒；地上水书，突显了记忆的灵性。 Water Calligraphy Calligraphy is the soul of the Chinese fine arts. It is a magnificent “concerto” of man, brush, paper and ink. With a brush the calligrapher writes the characters that express the feelings; with the paper the ink leaves a permanent record. Traditional calligraphy seeks permanency in time and space; water calligraphy, written on the ground, reflect the evanescent nature of man’s memory. “圆舞曲传到中国，是在二十世纪三十年代。冒险家们在灯红酒绿的夜上海轻歌曼舞，戏梦人生。八十年代，圆舞曲随着开放 51. 露天舞场改革再度兴起，对于那代人来说，是西方文明的曙光。 Open Air Dancing The waltz came to China in the 1930s and adventurist young people took up casual dancing in the decadent atmosphere of nighttime Shanghai, living out their dreams. The waltz reappeared following the reform policies of the 1980s and, for the people of that generation, it represented the first glimmer of western culture. 天坛的设计和营造集明、清建筑与园林技术、艺术之大成。构思巧妙的殿宇，是中国古建筑中的罕见杰作；大面积绿林和丰富 52. 夜色植被，创造出“天人协和”的生态环境。 Evening Light The design and construction of the Temple of Heaven represent the culmination of Ming and Qing architecture and garden artistry. The ingenious design of the Halls is a rare masterpiece of traditional Chinese architecture. The large expanse of trees and rich vegetation create an ecological environment where “man and nature are in harmony.” 北京规划展览馆位于老北京火车站东侧，建筑面积一万六千平方米，展示面积八千平方米。讲述了这座不朽之都的悠久历史与 53. 俯瞰京城当代城市规划的成就，展望了北京发展的璀璨明天。 A Bird’s Eye View of The Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall is located to the east of the old Beijing railway station. It covers an area of 16,000 sq. meters with an exhibition space of 8,000 sq. meters. The Exhibition the Capital City Hall gives a picture of the long history of this enduring city, the achievements of its contemporary urban planning and casts an eye forward to a brilliant future. 菜市场是反映北京人生活变迁的窗口。七十年代只有白菜、土豆、萝卜、大葱；九十年代的菜篮里就已不分时令，应有尽有。 54. 菜市场今天的菜市场更像一座农展馆，怪菜洋菜目不暇给。 The Vegetable Market The vegetable market is a window on the changing life of a Beijinger. In the 1970s cabbage, potatoes, turnips and green onions were the only things you could buy. In the 1990s the vegetable basket no longer was conscious of the season, whatever you needed, you had. Today the vegetable market is even more like an agricultural exhibit hall, every kind of vegetable imaginable makes the eyes glaze over. 官园不仅鱼市有名，花鸟市场也很出名。笼具摊位让人眼花缭乱，鸟笼的材质、形状、风格、功能各异，学问颇多。除了鸟 55. 笼中趣笼，这里还卖各种各样的蛐蛐笼和蝈蝈笼。 The Lure of the Bird Cage Not only is the Guanyuan fish market famous, its flower and bird market is likewise extremely well known. The stalls with their bird cages dazzle the eyes, and cage materials, construction, style and functioning are all different, representing a great deal of expertise. In addition to bird cages, cricket cages and katydid cages are also sold here. 天宁寺位于广安门外，是京城现存最古老的寺院。初建于五世纪的北魏，原名“光林寺”。千年来屡遭战火，屡经修缮，寺院 56. 天宁寺名字也屡次更换。现存寺院为明朝重建、清朝重修。 The Tianning Temple The Tianning Temple is located outside Guang’anmen and is the oldest surviving temple in the capital. Initially built in the 5th century during the Northern Wei, it was originally called the “Guanglin Temple.” In the year since, the temple was frequently damaged as a result of wars and many times repaired and renovated. The name of the temple also changed several times. The current temple was rebuilt during the Ming and renovated during the Qing dynasty.

九天普化宫座落在朝阳门外，建于清代（1647年），是主祀雷神的道观。如今殿内的诸雷神均不见踪影，大殿被岳秀市场挡在 57. 对话背后。对当代人来说，钱神比雷神更灵验。 A Conversation The “Ninth Heaven Puhua Palace” is located outside Chaoyangmen. It was built during the Qing dynasty (in 1647) and was a Taoist temple for the worship of the Gods of Thunder. Today no traces of the Gods of Thunder remain. The Great Hall was blocked by the Yuexiu market. People today see the God of Money as more effective than the God of Thunder. 蓝岛大厦位于朝阳门外，紧邻区和CBD中央商业区。1993年开始时，不仅曾是京城最火的购物中心。虽然如今的商厦越建越 58. 石狮多，但大多效仿“以文兴商”的“蓝岛模式”。 Stone Lions The Blue Island Mansion department store is located outside Chaoyangmen immediately adjacent to the embassy district and the central business district When it opened in 1993 it was the most popular department store in the city. Although today there are increasingly more commercial centers being built, most copy the “Landao model” of “prospering the business through culture.” 北京的城墙原有四道，中央有高九米、厚八米、周长七公里的紫禁城，其外环以高六米厚两米、周长九公里的皇城，皇城外是 59. 城墙祭二十四公里长的内城，内城外还有从未完工过的外城。 Beijing had four rings of city walls. In the center was the Forbidden City wall, nine meters high with a thickness of eight meters and a circumfrance of seven kilometers. Beyond that was the wall Requiem for the city wall of the Imperial City, six meters high and two meters thick with a circumfrance of nine kilometers. Next was the Inner Wall, 24 kilometers in circumfrance and finally the Outer Wall, which was never finished. 东岳庙座落于朝阳门外，初建于六百年前的元代，后几经扩建，成为中国北方最大的道观。东岳庙主祀泰山诸神，为东汉时道 60. 东岳庙教创始人张道陵天师第三十八代后裔张留孙兴建。 Dongyue Temple The Dongyue Temple is located outside Chaoyangmen. Construction began six hundred years ago during the Yuan dynasty. It was later expanded several times to become the largest Taoist temple in north China. The Temple is primarily devoted to the gods of the sacred mountain, Taishan. It was built by Zhang Liusun, a decendant in the 38th generation of Master Zhang Daoling, who started the Taoist religion in the Eastern Han dynasty (25~220 C.E.) 半个多世纪来，北京的老城改造确实留下了不少遗憾，也为今天的规划者提供了代价昂贵的经验。北京城已从二环扩展到六 61. 现代面孔环，奥运建设更为京城发展提供了千载难逢的契机。 A Modern Face For more than a half-century, the rebuilding of the old city in Beijing has occasioned much regret, and now has provided today’s urban planners with expensive lessons.. The city of Beijing has expanded from two to six ring roads, and the construction for the 2008 Olympics has given the development of the city a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. 东便门角楼，是中国最大最早的城垣角楼，距今已有五百年历史。角楼四面开箭窗一百四十四个，至今留有八国联军的炮弹残 62. 断垣情岛片和铁沙枪弹。城头杂草丛生，道尽沧桑。 Gathering at the The Dongbian Gate (or Southeast Gate) watchtower is the largest and oldest wall watchtower in China, dating back some 500 years. On the four sides of the tower are 144 archery windows. Shards of cannon balls and rifle shot used by the Eight-Nation Allied Army during the Boxer Rebellion can still be found here. The top of the wall is overgrown with weeds, telling the history that Wall Ruins has long gone with the wind. 骑车上班，途中在报摊前捏一把闸，买一张报纸看看外面的世界……这是老北京共同拥有过的记忆。今天，外面的世界变成了 63. 自行车的命运里面的世界，自行车逐渐从交通工具变成了健身器。 The Fate of the Bicycle Riding a bike to work, braking at a newspaper stand to buy a paper see what was going on in the outside world...this is a memory all old Beijingers share. Today the “outside world” has become the “inside world” and the biclycle has gradually become a piece of exercise equipment instead of a means of transportation. 雍和宫是京城规模最大的喇嘛教寺院，初建于1694年，曾是清雍正皇帝继位前的府邸、登基后的行宫。1744年乾隆将其改成喇 64. 雍和宫嘛庙，集汉满蒙藏艺术于一体，至今香火鼎盛，信众不绝。 The Yonghe Palace The Yonghe Palace is the largest Lama temple in Beijing. First built in 1694, it was the residence of Emperor Yongzheng before he came to the throne and it became the the royal xinggong, or temporary Palace when the Emperor was away from he capital, after his succession to the throne. In 1744 Emperor Qianlong of the Qing dynasty turned it into a Lama temple combining the artistic (Lama Temple) styles of the Han Chinese, Manchus, Mongols and Tibetans. The incense still burns in profusion today and there is no lack of worshipers.

西单，早在明代就因地处交通要道而店铺聚集，到了清末，已形成一条繁华热闹的商业街。1949年后，西单经过几 65. 书城次大规模改造，现在与王府井、前门合为北京三大商业区。 Book City Xidan Street. was a place where shops had concentrated as early as the Ming dynasty, due to its location at the crossroads of the main transportation routes. By the end of the Qing dynasty it had become a thriving and prosperous commerical street. After 1949 Xidan Street. underwent several major reconstructions and today it is one of the three major commerical areas of Beijing, along with Wangfujing and Qianmen. 66. 神坛俗愿日坛位于朝阳门外，建于明朝（1530年），是皇帝祭祀大明之神“太阳”的地方。1951年扩建并辟为公园。 Exercising at the Altar Ritan, or the” Altar of the Sun,” is located outside Chaoyangmen and was built during the Ming dynasty (in 1530). It was where the Emperor made sacrifices to the Ming (“bright”) god of the “sun.” In 1951 it was expanded and opened as a public park. 西什库北堂是北京教区最大的天主教堂。原址在中海西畔，为1693年清康熙皇帝为感谢“耶稣会”神甫献药治病而 67. 北堂福音赐地建造，后几经兴衰，于1888年光绪年间迁到西什库现址。 The Gospel of The Xishiku St. North Catheral is the biggest Catholic church in the parish of Beijing. Originally it was located on the western bank of the Zhonghai having been constructed and given with the land by Emperor Kangxi in 1693 to the Jesuit Fathers as an expression of gratitude for their medical assistance. After a number of ups and downs, in 1888 it was the North Cathedral moved to its present location on Xishiku. 后海位于北海公园后门，湖光掩映，曲径通幽。是老北京风貌保存最好的城区。后海酒吧街因2003年的“非典”突 68. 野茶馆然火暴，清新的空气和幽雅的环境，吸引来夜不归宿的慕名客。 The Country Tea House Back Lake (Houhai) is located at the back gate of Beihai Park, where sunlight plays upon the lake water and small, winding paths open up to enchanting views. It is the area of the city that has best preserved the look of old Beijing. Because of the SARS epidemic in 2003, Houhai Bar Street. suddenly became a hot spot as people who were not returning home were attracted by its reputation of cool, fresh air and elegant surroundings. 三里屯酒吧街位于朝阳区，与七十九国使馆比邻，是借着洋人的人气打造出来的京城著名酒吧街。不要说洋人了， 69. 吧街就是到北京旅游、办事的外地客，也会来这儿“体验”一把。 Bar Street Sanlitun Bar Street. is in the Chaoyang District and neighbor to 79 foreign embassies. The well-known Beijing street was created with a western influence and any visitor or person on business who comes to the city, not just foreigners, will come here to “experience” the bar culture.. 中山公园位于天安门西侧，原为辽、金时的兴国寺。明代建皇宫时按“左祖右社”的制度改建为社稷坛，祭祀土地 70. 中山公园神与五谷神。1914年辟为中央公园，1918年改名中山公园。 The Zhongshan Park is located on the western side of Tiananmen. It was the location of the Xingguo Temple (“Temple for National Strength”) during the Liao and Jin dynasties. Zhongshan Park When the Imperial Palace was built during the Ming dynasty this area was redesigned in accordance with the “left/right” system whereby the Royal Ancestral Temple was located to the left of the Palace and the Altar of the gods of the soil and grain was located to the right. It was developed as the Central Park in 1914, and renamed as Zhongshan Park in 1918 in memory of Sun Yat-sen. 中华民族园位于亚运村西侧，是集中国各民族的传统建筑、民俗风情、歌舞表演、工艺制作、民族美食以及收藏陈 71. 中华民族园列于一体的大型综合博物院。 The Chinese Ethnic The Chinese Ethnic Culture Park is located to the west of the Olympic Village. It gathers together the traditional architecture, folk customs, dance performances, handicrafts, Culture Park cuisine and antiques of the ethnic minorities and displays them in what amounts to a large-scale museum.

天安门是皇城之门，建于1417年，取意“受命于天”、“安邦治民”。天安门广场原为御道直通的封闭式宫廷广 72. 历史舞台场。1911年辛亥革命后，两侧大门轰然倒塌，广场成为人民广场。 The Historical Stage Tiananmen (“Gate of Heavenly Peace”) was the gate to the Imperial City and was built in 1417. This gate (men) derives its name from the couplet: “Receive the Mandate of Heaven (tian), Bring peace to the country and governance to the people.” Tiananmen Square was originally a closed-off royal square leading directly to the Royal Way to the Palace. After the 1911 Revolution both sides of the gate crashed to the ground and the area became a public square. 朝阳公园并不是传统的中式园林，而是一座以绿化为主的、现代化的多功能文娱乐园。2006年10月1日国庆节，这 73. 红旗摇滚里悬挂起五百七十面国旗庆祝共和国走过的五十七年个春秋。 Red Flags Rocking Chaoyang Park is by no means a traditional Chinese-style tree garden. It is a modern, multi-functional and “green” pleasure garden. On October 1, 2006 for National Day 570 flags flew here to celebrate the 57th anniversary of the Republic.

长城断想长 1. 春秋战国，诸侯就为了炫威御敌开始修筑长城。但唯有平荡群雄、一统中国的秦始皇将以守为攻、以静制动的军事思想砌筑到秦长城的砖石中。从那之后，每朝帝王都或长或短地延续过秦始皇的和平梦。不过，长城再城坚也未能挡住鞑靼入侵，多少年寒剑冷戟，烽烟不断。正如伏尔泰所说：“中国的长城证明的是这个民族的极大耐力。”对历史而言，游客眼中的虎踞龙盘的巍峨壮景，是一座悲烈千古的和平纪念碑。 1. Thoughts on the Great Wall 断 During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, (722-221 B.C.E.) as a show of power and to defend against their enemies, the various feudal lords began to build “long walls.” But it was only the First Emperor, “Shi Huangdi,” of the Qin dynasty who, having brought the feudal warlords to heel and unified the country, used the military ideas of “defense as offense,” and “passive control” to construct the Qin Great Wall. From that time onward each emperor carried on for longer or shorter periods of time Qin Shi Huangdi’s dream of peace. But no matter how strong the Wall was, it was 想 unable to stop the invasions of the Tatars and for many years bitter fighting raged on as the beacon-fires remained lit. As Voltaire once said: “The Great Wall of China bears witness to the great patience of these people.” From the historical viewpoint, this tall and rugged, strategic vista, like a “crouching tiger and coiling dragon,” that greets the visitor’s eye is a tragic monument to an age-old hope of peace.

金 2. 金山岭风中的长城，是凄冷的；月下的长城，是孤单的。夜的无垠，吞噬了塞外的辽远；草的寂静，覆盖了野魂的呜咽。曾几何时，这里金戈铁马、血色狼烟。幽怨的羌笛，凝住了将军眉；哀惋的胡笳，刺痛了征夫脸。千百年后，唯有高悬的明月长叹这壮怀激烈、却徒具虚名的山天下雄关。我第一次爬长城，是跟着七十岁的外婆；最近一次则是陪着七十岁的妈妈。城砖喑哑，不仅暗示我生命之短暂，还令我惊诧于人类凶蛮的地老天荒。 2. The Golden Ridge The Great Wall is bleak and cold when the wind blows, and stands lonely beneath the moonshine. The boundless night envelopes the distance and the silence of the grass conceals the sobbing of the lost souls wandering the 岭 steppe. Not too very long ago, this area was home to well-equipped armies and blood-red beacon fires. The plaintive and bitter sound of the Qiang flute caused the generals and soldiers alike to furrow their brows. The sorrowful sound of the hujia pipes brought pain to the faces of those who had traveled far from home. Over a thousand years later only the moon hanging high in the sky is there to heave a deep sigh for this redoubtable and so-called “most impregnable pass under Heaven.” The first time I climbed the Great Wall was with my 70-year-old grandmother; the most recent time was with my 70-year-old mother. The bricks of the Wall were mute testimony to the short span of our lives and shocked me into realizing the savage nature of mankind throughout the ages.

3. 司马台司长城是世界之最，司马台长城则是长城之最。天桥天梯，险中之险，百米索桥，天马行空。这里汇聚了“险、密、奇、巧、全”于一体，堪称“长城建筑博物馆”。黎明中雾气氤氲，天光朦胧，一座座烽火楼，犹如卧龙耸脊。一个人，静悄悄地踩着夜露湿的陡峭石马阶朝城头攀爬，轻喘着，兴奋着，感觉象是趁着主神贪床未醒的空隙、偷偷登上皇椅戏耍的小仙，隔着雾瘴，玩味地窥伺脚下熙攘的人间。 3. Simatai—Great Wall The Great Wall is the world’s longest wall, and Simatai is its most impressive section. The “Bridge to Heaven” and the “Stairway to Heaven” are the height of danger to climb or cross, and the hundred meter cable bridge is like the Heavenly Steed soaring acorss the sky. Here are collected together the five characteristics of Simatai: “perilous, dense, marvelous, ingenuous, 台 and complete.” Simatai can properly be called the “Great Wall construction museum.” At dawn, hazy daylight appears through the morning mist and the line of watchtowers becomes the spine of a sleeping dragon. A solitary figure quietly treds the steep stone steps, wet with the evening dew, as he climbs to the top of the wall, breathing lightly, excited, feeling as if he were a minor immortal who, taking advantage of a free moment when the Creator, sleeping late, has not yet awakened, stealthily mounts the throne for fun and, separated by a thick mist, playfully spies down upon the busy world of men beneath his feet.

古 4. 古村土坡，小院，槐柏，柴扉，灰墙，褐瓦，石巷，驴车，还有坡下的清溪、半山的煤窑、村头公用了几百年的磨盘和那口纪念碑似的老井。川底下，这个距离京城只有六十公里的隐秘山村，讲述着四百年的沧桑史。这宅墙上，清朝“告示”隐约可辨；那厢房后，残留着红漆的文革标语；村公所前的告示栏写着“只生一个好”；农家饭馆，门口贴着时令菜谱。我不禁感叹流年似水，惊诧于几个时代在同一空间的超现实定格。村 4. An Ancient Village A sloping hill, a small courtyard, locust and cypress trees, a rough hewn door, plastered walls, brown tiles, stone streets, donkey carts plus a stream at the foot of the slope, a charcoal kiln atop a hill, a public millstone at the enrance to the village used for several hundred years, and an old well that looks like a memorial tablet—these are the remains of Chuandixia (“Below- the-River”). This hidden-away mountain village is located just 60 kilometers from Beijing and its remains tell a four-hundred-year-old story. On the wall of a dwelling the writing of an official “Notice” issued during the Qing dynasty can just be made out. Behind a set of rooms the remains of slogans written in red paint dating from the Cultural Revolution can be seen. In front of the public square the notice board still reads, “One Child is Best.” In the farmers’ restaurant the hours and menu are pasted up on the door. I am deeply struck by this surreal, freeze-frame shot of several eras co-existing in one and the same space and cannot not help feeling the years flowing by like water in a stream

老 5. 老宅北京的四合院并非城里人独享，在被时间遗忘了的川底下村，居然珍留着近百家。无论迷路到哪儿，我都做梦般望着一栋栋老宅发呆。院落的布局紧凑而不拘谨，无豪绅气魄，却精巧别致。考究的门楼上有门簪、下有门墩，旁边还有供奉门神的神龛。墙上写着“福、禄、寿”，地下铺着青石紫石，意为“平步青云、紫气东来”。走进门楼，影壁迎面，正房厢房，青砖灰瓦，石阶雕梁。走在院中，移步换景，时间在我脚下悄悄伸延。宅 5. An Old Residence The Beijing courtyard home was never exclusive to city residents. In Chuan- dixia, a village forgotten by time, almost 100 of these precious structures have survived. No matter where I wondered, lost among the winding alleys, I was transfixed by one after the other of these houses as I gazed at them like in a dream. The courtyards were compact but not crowded, they did not exhibit the boldness of the gentry class but were cleverly and interestingly laid out. The exquisite entry gates had decorative cylinders on top and door piers at the bottom, and to the side was a shrine to the god who guarded the house. On the walls were the characters for “prosperity,” “blessings,” and “longevity.” On the ground blue and purple stones were laid, referring to the phrases: “quietly walk among the blue (“highest”) clouds; a purple (“i.e., “auspicious”) cloud comes from the east.” (“Quietly walk among the blue clouds” refers to career success in the government, while “a purple cloud comes from the east” refers to a famous story of Lao Zi crossing China’s westernmost outpost, the Hanguguan.) Entering the the house gates one faces the yingbi, or inside screen wall, the primary and secondary rooms, the blue and gray tile, the stone steps and carved pillars. As I enter the courtyard the scene changes, time silently stretches out before my feet.

窗 6. 窗影精美多变的窗棂，是老宅的灵魂。木窗的图案有双灯笼格、斜棱格、回字格、条形格和正方格；窗户的式样有推拉窗、双层窗、支摘窗，即便是在同一座宅院，雕花木窗的设计也别具匠心，既有变化，又有统一。即使到了二十一世纪，川底下人仍爱糊窗纸，起风时瑟瑟做响，落雨后水渍班驳。淡淡的日光自镂空的雕窗漫入，在青石板地上描了一幅画，涂了一层腊。影 6. Shadows Through the Windows The refined and varied window grills are the soul of the old residences. Pat- terns include double laterns, beveled edges, concentric squares, straight lines and simple squares. As for the types of windows, there are push-pull windows, double layered windows, removable windows, and although in the same residence the design of the carved windows has a unique character, there are variations and unity at the same time. Right down to the 21st century the people of Chuandixia are still fond of pasting up window paper. When the wind blows it makes a rustling sound, and after a rain it is spotted with rain water. The weak rays of the sun come through the open spaces of the carved window, sketching a picture on the granite floor like a layer of wax.

冰 7. 冰宫中国的冰都在哈尔滨，京城的冰宫在龙庆峡。水晶的宝塔，彩色的龙宫，透明的长城，展翅的冰鹰。不用青石、瓦当，不用铁钉、木楔，冰雕艺人们在坚硬的水中，再现了中国传统建筑的形神。曾几何时，老北京还在三九天里到什刹海伐冰窖冰，为了能在酷夏驱热避暑；今天的北京人何止有了冰箱冰柜，还能携家带口地到冰宫仙境里走一走。宫 7. The Ice Palace China’s ice capital is Harbin but Beijing has its own Ice Palace in the Longqingxia. Ice crytstal pagodas, the multi-colored palace of the Dragon King, a transparent Great Wall and an ice eagle spreading its wings all greet the visitor who goes there. Without granite, eave tiles, without iron nails or wooden wedges, the ice sculptors bring forth the form and spirit of traditional Chinese architechture in the hard blocks of ice. Not all that long ago, old Beijingers would make a trip to the Shichahai in the depth of winter to cut ice for their ice cellars so that during the brutal summer months they could keep the heat at bay. Modern Beijingers, with their refridgerators and freezers, can still take the family for an outing to the fairyland of the Ice Palace.

银 8. 银山塔林去银山，冬季最美。悬崖峭壁漆黑如铁，雪后山岭银装素裹。九百年前，这里曾是辽金的佛教圣地，“铁壁银山”——被列为明朝的燕京八景。早在一千三百年前，这里就有唐代高僧讲经说法，筑坛立寺，金代山时僧尼多达五百。高僧多了，圆寂的墓塔逐渐密集成林。千年之中，佛地也免不了受俗世侵扰，寺庙几建几毁，墓塔越来越少。夏日的杂草，冬日的冰雪，听幸存者讲述因果与轮回。 8. The Yinshan Pagoda Forest 塔 Winter is the most beautiful season for visiting Yinshan. The inky black clifts look like iron, the mountain ridge wrapped in silvery snow. Nine hundred years ago this was a sacred place for Buddhism during the Liao and Jin dynasties. “Iron walls and silver mountains”--it is one of the Eight Great Sights of Yanjing (Beijing) dating from the Ming dynasty. One thousand three hundred years ago eminent monks came to the area to expound on the Buddhist 林 sutras, alters and temples were built. During the Liao and Jin dynasties there were as many as 500 monks and nuns living here. As the number of eminent monks increased, the tomb pagodas of the deceased gradually grew to a forest. In the thousand years since that time this Buddhist ground inevitably suffered the depredations of the mundane world, the temples were almost all destroyed and the tomb pagodas decreased in number as time went on. The weeds that grow in the summer and the ice and snow that winter brings speaks to us of karma and the cycle of rebirth.

蟠 9. 蟠桃园在中国，桃子象征长寿，给老人祝寿就送寿桃。送寿桃的数量有不同的讲究，有的地方要送九枚，意为“八仙献桃”；有的地方按寿诞计算，六十大寿就送六十只。传说中，3月3日是王母娘娘诞辰，她请天上诸仙参加蟠桃园盛会。蟠桃园共种桃树三千六百株，三千年才结一次果，吃一枚能延寿六百岁。相比之下，平谷桃园不但桃种桃十六万株，而且一年一熟。因此不难想象：来这里踏青的北京人，总会有一股成仙的感觉。 9. Garden of Immortal Peaches In China the peach symbolizes long life. To wish an old person long life, one gives a “birthday peach,” or “long life peach.” There are different views on just how many to give. In some places they say you must give nine, the idea here being that “the Eight Immortals offer a peach.” Some places give a number related to the person’s age. Someone celebrating their 60th birth- 园 day, for example, receives 60 peaches. It is said (in the famous legend of the Monkey King) that March 3 is the birthday of the Queen Mother goddess, and on that day she invites all the Immortals in Heaven to participate in the Grand Banquet of Immortal Peaches. Her Garden of Immortal Peaches is planted with 3,600 trees that bear fruit just once every 3,000 years, and eating one of these peaches can extend your life 600 years. By compari- son, the Pinggu peach orchard has some 160,000 trees that bear fruit every single year. No wonder Beijingers who come here for an outing always feel like they have become Immortals.

10. 明月吟明卢沟晓月，是多少带文人咏诗赏月的燕京佳景，直到今天，桥头的碑亭里仍镌刻着乾隆皇帝的御书。八百年明月照桥，从未厌倦对古代工匠们绝技的赞美；五百头石月狮泣血，难以清洗“七·七事变”的国耻民辱。京城里车水马龙，歌舞升平；卢沟桥枯苇临风，河床干涸。明月依然照桥，历史不容忘记。 10. The Moon’s Lament How often has the “Moon Over Lugou at Daybreak” inspired poets to write the praises of this wonderful sight of “Yanjing” (Beijing). Even today in the 吟 Tablet Pavilion the steles engraved with the characters written by Emperor Qianlong remain. For eight hundred years the moon shined down on the Marco Polo Bridge, with never a gap in the constant praise of the con- sumate skill of those ancient workers who built it. But the tears of blood of the 500 stone lions can hardly wipe clean the national shame and humili- ation of the “Marco Polo Incident.” The capital city is full of people, they laugh and dance in a time of peace, while the dried-up rushes at the bridge are left to face the wind, and the river channel has run dry. The moon continues to shine down upon the bridge, but history remembers.

禅 11. 禅境走出颐和园赏雪的长廊，绕过西太后夜宴的石舫，踏着岸边小径的松软细雪，无意中猛抬头：斜松寒岭，冰湖木舟，晨光倒影……仿佛误入了古人诗境，乍醒于杜甫草堂。“窗含西岭千秋雪，门泊东吴万里船。”我听到诗人在捻髯低吟。其实，这并非梦境，只不过是昆明湖一角的冬日小景。静悄悄的万寿山西麓，足印留下心迹，诗情带着禅意。 11. The Realm of Quiet Contemplation 境 Walking along the galleries of the Summer Palace admiring the snowy landscape, passing the stone boat where Empress Dowager Cixi once hosted evening banquets, you a small pathway dusted with snow and, unconscious- ly, you abruptly raise your head. Ahead of you, slanting pine trees atop a wintry hill, a wooden boat on a frozen lake, the morning sun reflected on the ice...you seem to have mistakenly wandered into the world of ancient Chi- nese poetry and suddenly awakened in Tu Fu’s thatched cottage. “Framed in my window, a thousand autumn snows on the western ridges; tied at my gate, a boat to take me ten thousand miles east to Wu.” The poet chants in a low voice as he strokes his whiskers. But no, this is not a dreamscape, just a winter’s scene tucked away in a corner of Kunming Lake. On the quiet western slope of Longevity Hill (Wanshoushan) memories of the past have left their traces, and poetry brings with it a sense of quiet contemplation.

12. 雪霁笛声雪冬日的颐和园，雪霁的苏州街，积雪的后山，冰封的后湖。冷凝的寂静中，从哪儿飘来的一阵短笛？灰色的砖墙，大红的门窗，红绿的灯笼，花彩的旌幡。纷乱的足霁迹里，哪个是不远万里来寻梅的人？时节虽异，景物依然，夏日的喧嚣虽然不再，但让这位来自布达佩斯的摄影师欣喜的是：又遇到了这位吹笛人。这是风吹旗卷的曲，这是雪落尘埃的歌。 12. The Sound of a Flute 笛 After a Snowfall The Summer Palace on a winter’s day. Suzhou Street turned white after a snowfall, Back Hill (Houshan), covered with snow, Back Lake (Houhu) locked in ice—in this frozen stillness from somewhere the sound of a piccolo comes floating on the breeze. Gray brick walls, scarlet doors and windows, red and green lanterns and colorful banners meet the eye. And the traces of all the people who have been here...which one did not come from afar to “look for plum flowers in the snow”? Through the different seasons, the 声 scene remains the same. Although the tumult of the summer is heard no longer now, the photographer from Budapest is overjoyed: he has found his flutist. The tune is of breezes and pennants blowing in the wind, of snow falling and scattering in the air.

13. 元宵节钢筋水泥的雨林，蚕食着京城的红墙绿瓦；宽阔的柏油元宵节马路，将小胡同的记忆碾到地下。太阳照样东升西落，日子依旧四季轮转，正月十五元宵节，只不过锅里煮的元宵从手摇的变成了机制的；无论今春的流行色是什么，灯会上的男女仍大红大绿，猪八戒将媳妇背到了都市，面对海潮般涌来的大厦，几多惊叹？几多尴尬？ 13. The Lantern Festival A forest of steel reinforcement bars and cement encroaches on the the red walls and green tiles of the capital city, and broad macadamized roads bury beneath them the memories of the small hutongs. But the sun, as ever, rises in the east and sets in the west, and the seasons follow one upon the other as they always have. The only difference on this Lantern Festival Day, the 15th of the First Lunar Month, is that the dumplings boiling in the pots are swirled around by machine instead of by hand. Whatever the year’s popular color, at the Lantern Festival the boys and girls are dressed in red and green, and Zhu Bajie (Pigsy, a character in the Chinese classic novel Journey to the west) carries his bride on his back into the city. Met by a sea of tall skyscrapers, how amazed he must be, how overwhelmed he must feel!

罗 14. 罗汉皇帝碧云寺殿堂雄伟，依傍山势，层层迭起，庄严肃穆，松柏参天，浓荫蔽日。金刚宝座塔群峰环抱、俯瞰京城；北院幽静碧绿，泉水淙淙；南院罗汉堂最为著汉名，五百罗汉木雕漆金，神态各异。细心人会发现，众罗汉中只有一位身披铠甲、头戴战盔、丝毫没有出家人样子的“破邪见尊者”。这竟是兴建罗汉堂的乾隆自己！想来，信佛的皇帝不仅希望自己拥有佛心，还幻想自己拥有佛寿吧？ 14. The Arhat Emperor 皇 The hall of the Biyun (“Asure Clouds”) Temple is imposing, rising in mul- tiple storeys against the side of a mountain. Solemn is appearance, the pine and cypress trees touching the sky, their deep shadows obscuring the sun. The pagoda of the temple soars high above and embraces it, giving a view of the capital city below. The north courtyard is serene and asure green, the spring water sings its murmuring song. The south courtyard is home to the famous Hall of the Arhat with the carved and gold-painted 帝 wooden statues of the 500 Arhat, each one with a unique countenance. The careful observer will discover that only one of the Arhat, “revered for refuting heresy,” is wearing body armor and a helmut and not at all looking like a monk. This is none other than the one who built the Hall of the Arhat himself, Emperor Qianlong! So, did the Emperor who was follower of Buddha not only hope to have a “heart of the Buddha” but also imagine themselves as having Buddha-like immortality?

衣 15. 衣冠冢在碧云寺金刚宝座塔的券洞里，安放着孙中山先生的衣冠冢，游人到此，无不肃立，追缅这位救国的伟人。然而，许多游客并不知道，就在这金刚宝座塔的基座下，还埋着一个当年被康熙皇帝平掉的衣冠冢。这另一个衣冠冠冢的主人不是别人，正是被崇祯皇帝碎尸、遭万古唾骂的明代权监魏忠贤。碧云寺两座衣冠冢命运的戏剧性对照，说明历史终归是公正的。 15. Personal Effects Tomb Within the arched enclosure of the “Diamond Cutter Throne” pagoda at 冢 Biyun Temple lies the “personal effects tomb” of Sun Yat-sen. Visitors who come here stand with respect as they contemplate what this great man, the savior of the nation, did. But many visitors are unaware that underneath the foundation of this pagoda there used to be another personal effects tomb, this one was destroyed by the Emperor Kangxi. This tomb is that of none other than the powerful Ming dynasty eunuch Wei Zhongxian, whom the Emperor Chongzhen executed and whose name will live forever in infamy. The two personal effects tombs that lie here offer a dramatic contrast and show that, in the end, history is just and fair.

与 16. 与春天合影春天是最富表情的季节，难怪所有人都争抢着跑来与她合影。晴天碧水，春影如织，花团锦簇，桃红柳绿。熙春攘的探春者与横流的春色融到一起。昨夜的风还很凉彻，今日的天已温热融融，世上人的血脉好象都连接到一颗心脏，世界万物似乎都通过一只肺呼吸。复苏，复苏！春天虽象妩媚女人一样嬗变，但人们并不吝啬为她付出代价。哪怕只是瞬间的拥有，哪怕只是在照片上。天 16. Spring Photos Spring is the prettiest season. No wonder everyone vies with each other to get a picture taken with her. Clear skies and blue water, a tapestry of shadows cast by the sun, a gorgeous array of multicolored flowers, peach trees and willows dressed in pink and green—this is the scene that greets the eye. The streams of people out enjoying the spring blend in with the riot 合 of spring colors. The air is still chilled from last night’s breezes as the day turns comfortably warm, everyone’s heart seems to beat together, everything seems to breathe in unison. Revival! Although spring is as fickle as a charming woman, people are not stingy when it comes to paying the price, though it be only for a fleeting moment or only in a photograph. 影

绿 17. 绿岛如果说，十七孔桥是昆明湖的银色项链；那么郁郁葱葱的南湖岛，则是一枚翡翠的项坠。从这里眺望万寿山顶的佛香阁，俯瞰昆明湖上的彩色游船，细观水面的掌心纹理，猜测那条是爱情线。假山叠错，密树遮天，山色如画，水波如诗。情人们甘愿做上钩的鱼，渴望做私奔的仙。尽管美景下的爱情显得很俗，可是再俗的爱情，对于坠落情网的人来说，都同样幸福。岛 17. Green Island If the 17-Arch Bridge is the silver necklace of Kunming Lake, the luxurient Nanhu Island is an emerald pendant. From there you can look out at the Tower of Buddhist Incence atop Longevity Hill, get a bird’s eye view of the colorful pleasure boats on Kunming Lake, inspect the “palm lines” of the water and guess which ripple line represents love. The man-made hills stand in layers, the thickly planted trees obscure the sky, the color is like in a picture and the ripples are like a poem. Romantic couples are ready to be ensnared and long to elope as Immortals. Although love sentiments in such a beautiful setting may seem trite, for those caught in the net the happiness is just a real.

京 18. 京仙只有时间，能将历史积淀得凝重，惟有月色，会把肉体蛀蚀变轻。子夜里，一个人走在鼓楼后的老街，墙皮斑驳的四合院墙，枝杈虬曲的枯槐病柳，当一千七百万市民坠入梦乡的时辰，我摇身变成一位老北京的仙人，看看祖上的老屋是否还在？听听门墩下的蟋蟀是否还唱？月披风晕，古道浮尘，趁着鼓楼沉睡未醒，踩着无声的影子，看看我的老北京。仙 18. Fairy God of Beijing Time imparts the dignity of history but it is moonlight that, like moths eating away at a heavy blanket, reveals the bare bones that lie below. Wan- dering the old streets behind the Drum Tower alone at midnight, the peal- ing, mottled walls of the courtyard homes, the curled branches of the dead pagoda trees and the diseased willows...when 17 million inhabitants have drifted into dreamland, suddenly I am transformed and walk the streets as the great men of old Beijing once did before me. Are the old roofs of the ancestors still there? Do the crickets in the door mounds still sing their song? The moon wrapped in a halo, the old streets with dust hanging in the air...as the Drum Tower lies deep in slumber, my feet walk among the silent shadows as I look at Old Beijing.

19. 太后迎宾太一百五十年前，一个叫狗子的河北小子到天津闯荡，摆了一个包子摊。他包的包子形如菊花、口感柔软、鲜香后不腻，引得全城人跑来品尝，忙得狗子只做包子不理客人，从此得到“狗不理”的绰号。后来，袁世凯把“狗不理”包子献入皇宫，慈禧膳毕大悦：“山中走兽云中燕，腹地牛羊海底鲜，不及狗不理香矣，食之长寿也。”就因为这一句夸奖的话，不仅使“狗不理”进了京城，还使西太后自己落魄成包子铺的“迎宾小姐”。迎 19. The Empress Welcomes Customers A hundred and fifty years ago a young Hebei boy named Gouzi (“Doggie” in Chinese) came to Tianjin to seek his fortune and set up a shop selling “baozi” (steamed buns). His baozi were shaped like chrysanthemum flowers, tender, fragrant and not greasy, and soon the whole city was beating a path to his shop door to eat them. So busy was Gouzi, he spent all his time making the baozi and ignored his customers. Hence he acquired the nick- 宾 name “Goubuli” (“Gouzi pays no attention”). Later Yuan Shikai presented some “Goubuli” baozi to the Palace, and upon finishing one of them, the Empress Dowager Cixi said, “No animal in the mountains, no swallow in the clouds, no cattle or sheep on the frontier, no food in the sea can compare with the taste of a Goubuli baozi. Eating them gives long life.” Such effusive praise not only brought “Goubuli” baozi into the capital city, the Empress Dowager herself became a kind of “Maître d'” for the baozi shop.

20. 消逝中消我是在胡同长大的孩子。大门道、上马石、门墩、门杠、胡同口，自然是我孩提时代的重要语汇；还有捉蛐蛐，逮知了，粘蜻蜓，玩弹弓……如今，不仅儿时的游戏轮为了记忆，就连随手能画出每个细节的学院胡同一号四合院，也早被喧嚣的金融街埋葬在地下。当我看到匈牙利朋友的这幅摄影作品时，那灰墙狭巷和寂静不安的紫红色天空，突然感到一股“行将逝去”的无语悲壮。逝同时庆幸，弟弟救下的两扇雕花大门，仍静静地躺在塔楼的阳台上。 20. Fading Away I grew up in the “hutongs” (“alleyways”) of Beijing. “Entryway,” “mounting stone,” “door pier,” “door staff,” “hutong enrance” -- all these are important 中 words from my youth. And catching crickets, cicadas, and dragonflies, using a slingshot....Today, not only is the pass-time of my youth just a memory, even the courtyard house at No. 1 Xueyuan Hutong, whose every detail I could sketch at the drop of a hat, has been buried beneath bustling Jinrong Street. When I see these photos done by our Hungarian friend, those grey walls and narrow passageways and quiet but restless purple-red sky, suddenly a wordless, melancholy feeling of “ imminent passing” comes over me. Still, it is a time to celebrate some good fortune. The two carved front gate doors my younger brother rescued are resting peacefully on the upper storey balcony.

21. 三轮车三三轮车是老北京的出租车，以前送煤、送菜、送老人看病、送孩子上学，北京人很难离开他。今天的三轮车成了风俗游的特色工具，拉着客人在故宫周围的小胡同里穿行。上了年纪的老北京，常会热心地凑过来闲侃，吹轮牛之中也不乏典故，更有掩不住的京城人自豪。不过，三轮车刺耳的车铃和车夫们清一色的黄马甲，也未免有股“伪民俗”味道。所以，可能的话，你最好还是卸掉个轱辘，一个人骑自行车串一串胡同迷宫。 21. The Pedicab The pedicab is Old Beijing’s taxi. In the past for delivering coal or food, getting old people to see a doctor, or sending kids off to school, it was hard for 车 a Beijinger to escape it. Today the pedicab has become a charastistic item for scenic tours, squeezing visitors through the small hutongs surrounding the Imperial Palace. There you will see Elderly Old Beijingers who often enthusiastically come together and start up leisurly conversations, with no lack of literary allusions in their spinning of tall tales, even less are they able to supress their pride in being residents of the capital city. But the ear piercing sound of the pedicab bell and the monotone organge vests of the drivers cannot help but give the sense of a “pseudo folk custom.” So, if pos- sible, you’re best off just “grabbing a couple wheels” and wending your way through the labyrinth of hutongs yourself on a bicycle.

胡 22. 胡同与井胡同一词初见于元曲。七百年前，关汉卿在《单刀会》里写过一句戏词：“杀出一条血胡同来”；元杂剧《张生煮海》里也有句对话：“你家住哪里？”“我家住砖塔儿胡同。”砖塔胡同在西四南大街，至今未变。胡同同来自元朝的皇族语言，是蒙语“井”的谐音。元大都的中轴线傍水而划，皇宫依水而建，民宅因井成巷。直到今天，以井命名的胡同还有四五十个。北京有个屎壳郎胡同，听起来滑稽，但译成蒙语则是“甜水井”…… 22. Hutongs and Wells 与 The word “hutong” first appeared in Yuan drama texts. Seven hundred years ago the playwright Guan Hanqing in his play Meeting the Enemies Alone (Dandao hui) wrote: “He fought his way out of a bloody hutong.” Also in Zhang Boils the Sea (Zhang sheng zhe hai) there is the following dialogue: “Where do you live?” “I live in Brick Tower hutong.” Brick Tower (zhuanta) hutong is located on Xisi Street South today, just where it has always been. The word “hutong” comes from the imperial language of the Yuan court. It 井 is an approximation using Chinese characters of the Mongolian pronouncia- tion for the word “well.” The central axis of the capital city the Yuan built, Dadu, was marked out along the water. The Yuan palace was constructed in accordance with the geography of the water, and private homes were built in lanes with wells. Even today, there are some 40 to 50 hutongs that take their names from the word “well.” Beijing has a hutong named “Dung Beetle”, which sounds comical, but in fact it is a phonetic transliteration for the Mongolian “Sweet Water Well.”

茶 23. 茶庄北京不产茶，但北京人嗜茶，于是茶庄盛行，遍布街巷。十九世纪在京城开店的，多是来自著名茶乡的安徽歙县人，相当于在巴黎开咖啡馆的奥弗涅人。那时侯，即使北京人开茶庄，也多请歙县人帮忙，或在店里“坐堂”迎客，或到茶山“坐庄”代购。茶庄不仅卖各类茶叶，还卖各色茶具。古色古香的老家具和文人气十足的博古架上，摆满了琳琅满目的陶壶瓷杯，将茶庄变成了茶艺博物馆。庄 23. Tea Shop Beijing does not produce tea but Beijingers love to drink it, and so tea shops are popular and can be found in every street and alleway. In the 19th century most of those opening tea shops in Beijing came from She County, in Anhui Province, a famous tea-producing area, something similar to how in Paris cafes are run by people from Auvergne. Even if a Beijinger would open up a shop, for the most part people from Anhui would be hired on to help, either to be on duty at the shop “sitting in court” to greet and welcome guests or on duty “as resident” at the tea-producing areas buying tea for the owner as an agent. Not only do tea shops sell every kind of tea there was, they also sell tea paraphernalia. Old traditional style furniture and elegant literati display cabinets are full of clay teapots and porcelain tea cups, turning the tea shop into a museum of tea culture.

大 24. 大茶馆北京的大茶馆曾在清朝走过红紫大运。无论达官显贵、还是闲人布衣，无论梨园名角，还是墨客文人，每个人都会与茶馆有过这样那样的纠葛。老舍的一出《茶馆》，道出了历史的荣辱兴衰。老舍茶馆沿袭了明清茶馆的风格，陈设古朴，格调典雅。好静的可以在二楼靠在藤椅里品茶看书，享受从茶里偷来的半日茶清闲；喜欢热闹的，则可到三楼一边喝大碗茶，一边尝京味小吃，欣赏戏曲、魔术和民乐表演，活脱脱一个“京味沙龙”。 24. The Tea House During the Qing dynasty Beijing tea houses experienced a tremendous boom. Whether it was prominent and high-ranking officials or just ordinary people, whether a famous actor or actress from the Beijing opera or poets and writers, everyone was involved with tea houses in one way or another. 馆 In his play, Tea House, the famous playwright Lao She told of the historical rise and fall of national honor in China. Today the Lao She Tea House follows the tea house culture of the Ming and Qing dynasties with simple and unsophisticated furnishings but a classically elegant style. Those who prefer a quiet environment can sip tea and read a book in a rattan chair on the second floor, stealing some leisure time afforded by the tea. Those who prefer more activity can go to the third floor for a large bowl of tea, try out the special Beijing snacks, enjoy a traditional opera, a magic show or a folk music performance, in what has become a kind of “Beijing salon.”

琉 25. 琉璃厂外面青砖灰瓦、木雕彩绘；里面古玩琳琅，墨香洋溢。追溯历史，这里曾是辽代的“海王村”、元代的琉璃窑场、清代的字画市场、今天的淘宝街。琉璃厂是北京古朴儒雅、信誉良好、货真价实的古玩街。心细的人能璃够发现：哪怕光看各家斋坊的铺面牌匾，就等于参观一个不收门票的名人书法展。店铺也越开越神气，古色古香，客人接踵，俨然一座座文物馆。 25. Liulichang Blue bricks and grey roof tiles, carvings and colored patterns on the outside, while inside antiques are laid out in all their splendor, and the smell of books is everywhere. During the Liao dynasty this area was known as 厂 “Haiwangcun” (“Village of the Sea King”), during the Yuan dynasty it was the Liuli kiln area, during the Qing a market for calligraphy and painting and today it is Taobao Street Liulichang is Beijing’s antiques street known for its simple elegance, reputation for trustworthiness, and for its authentic wares selling for honest prices. The careful observer will discover that just looking at the shop signs is like visiting an exhibit of famous calligraphers. And the shops, increasingly proud of themselves with their historical atmosphere and constant flow of visitors, are becoming just like art museums.

鬼 26. 鬼市老北京称旧货市场为“鬼市”。一是因为从前的鬼市只开在天黑以后、黎明之前，露天的地摊上灯笼摇晃，人影晃动，气氛诡秘；二是因为鬼市的货来路复杂，真假难辩；有的贱如废纸，有的开口天价。不过，现在的鬼市变成了热热闹闹的旅游市场。摊上的货五花八门、无奇不有，儿时的红宝书领袖像在这里变成了纪念品。不过，外行人看热闹，内行人看门道。要知道：在满眼皆是的赝品堆里，偶然也能淘到意外的珍品。市 26. The Ghost Market Old Beijingers call the market for second-hand goods the “ghost market.” One reason was that because this market was only open after nightfall and before dawn, as the lanterns hung on the outdoor stalls shook, they cast wavering shadows of the customers, and the whole atmosphere was strange and mysterious. Another reason was that becuse the provenance of the goods was complicated, it was difficult to distinguish between the counterfeit and the authentic. Some things were dirt cheap, while others were sky high in price. But today’s ghost market has become a lively destination for tourists. The goods put out on the stalls are of every variety imaginable. The “little red book” and images of Mao Zedong are sold here as souvenirs now. But while outsiders just see the lively activity, insiders see opportunity. For one thing must be kept in mind: among the piles of counterfeit goods that greet the eye, an unexpected treasure will ocassionally be found.

27. 夜市夜过去的老北京没有“大排挡”，天一擦黑，店铺就关了，肚饿嘴谗的人只能找走街串巷的小吃挑子。在行人多的地方，小吃挑子也多，逐渐形成了小吃夜市。不仅卖烧饼麻花、饺子馄饨，还有熟肉烤肉、茶水粥汤，夜市的规模越来越大。东华门夜市、隆福寺夜市、真武庙夜市……北京人逐渐“涮夜”成瘾，形成了北京的夜市文化。后来，东直门内的簋街应运而生，夜市不仅搬进了铺里，而且名吃汇粹。大红灯笼高高挂，彻夜不眠地恭候食客。 27. The Night Market 市 Old Beijing did not have any large, outside food stall area (da paidang). As soon as it got dark, the food shops would close, and hungry or thirsty Bei- jingers would have to hunt up snacks in the streets and alleyways sold by ped- dlers. Where there were lots of people, there were also lots of snack food ped- dlers and gradually the night market took shape. Not only are sesame cakes and mahua (twisted fried dough snack), dumplings and wontons sold, but also cooked and roasted meat, tea, congee and soup were sold as the scope of the night market expanded. There were night markets at Donghua Gate, the Longfu Temple and the Zhenwu Temple....Bejingers gradually became addicted to “frittering the night away,” and this became a part of Beijing night market culture. Subsequently, in response, Gui Street inside the Dongzhi Gate came into being, the night market move indoors and Gui Street became known as the place to find the best food. Huge red lanterns hang high in the air and welcome visitors throughout the night as they enjoy the fine cuisine.

围 28. 围城法国人有句谚语：“婚姻是被围困的城堡，城外的人想冲进去，城里的人想逃出来。”钱钟书根据这句泊来的箴言，给自己的小说起了《围城》的名字。这句话不仅可用在婚姻上、职业上，人生诸愿大都如此。罗大佑唱：“眼看着高楼盖得越来越高，我们的人情味却越来越薄，朋友之间越来越有礼貌，只因为大家见面越来越少……”早春的午前，这个在商厦包围的王府井闹市街心寻找春天踪迹的男人面容，恰好反映了现代都市人的“围城”心态。城 28. Fortress Besieged The French have a proverb: “Marriage is like a fortress besieged: those who are outside want to get in, and those who are inside want to get out.” The author Qian Zhongshu used this foreign proverb to title is novel Fortress Besieged. This idea is not only applicable to marriage and profession, but equally to all of life’s hopes and desires. The popular Taiwan singer, Luo Da-you has sung: “buildings rise higher and higher, but our humanness runs increasingly cold. Friends are increasingly polite to one another—because they see each other less and less.” The face of this young man in the picture on an early spring morning looking for traces of the season on a busy Wangfujing St., surrounded by commercial buildings, perfectly reflects the modern urban dweller’s sense of being “besieged.”

29. 鞋店春秋同升和鞋店的店名，出自清朝大臣铁良赠给第一任掌柜的一幅对联，意为“同心协力，和气生财”。鞋店鞋 1902年在天津创业，前店后厂，自产自销；三十年后分店店进京，由于服务周到，很快饮誉京城。1937年日军入侵，同升和在战乱中惨淡经营，二战末股分几家， 1949年在政府扶植下起死回生，毛泽东主席、周恩来总理等政界要员和国际友人的频频光顾，更使鞋店声誉大震。在今天的市场经济浪潮中，同升和仍是一张不沉的帆。春 29. The Story of a Shoe Shop The Tongshenghe Shoe House took its name from a written couplet given to the first proprietor by a major official of the Qing dynasty, Tie Liang. The couplet means “if you all work together, your harmony will lead to wealth.” The store began in Tianjin in 1902 with its own workshop in the back. Thirty years later it opened a branch in Beijing. The store very quickly gained a 秋 good reputation in the capital city because of it terrific service. With the invasion of the Japanese military in 1937 the store operated under extremely difficult circumstances and at the end of the war it was bought up by several interests. In 1949, with the support of the government, the store rose from the ashes. The frequent patronage of political leaders like Chairman Mao Zedong and Premier Zhou Enlai together with that of foreign friends gave great impetus to the shop’s reputations. In today’s rising tide of a market economy, Tongshengde remains, as always, an unsinkable ship.

晨 30. 晨练北京有分明的四季，北海有风霜雪雨，但对于晨练的人来说：三百六十五天却都一样。行云流水的太极拳，刚柔相济的八卦掌，噪音搅不了他们的心，游客晃不乱他们的眼，虽然年岁一天比一天老，可希望并不一天比一天少。对于必到的清晨而言，黑夜永远是昙花一现；对于乐观的人来说，没有比健康更宝贵的财富，没有比活着更实在的幸福。昔日的皇家园林，变成了今日的平民操场。练 30. Early Morning Exercises Beijing has four distinct seasons and Beihai experiences its wind, frost, snow and rain, but those who exercise early in the morning say “the 365 days of the year are all the same. “ Taijiquan, with its natural and flowing movements, Baguazhang, with its combination of hardness and softness... the practitioners of these exerecises are not disturbed by the noise, pass- ersby have no effect on their concentration. Although they grow old day by day, their hopes and desires do not diminish day by day. The early morning must arrive, the night is but a fleeting moment. For those with an optimis- tic view of life, there is nothing more precious than health, no more real happiness than being alive. The imperial gardens of the past have become the athletic fields of the people.

31. 天堂之约我到过西藏，到过那离太阳最近的地方。我摸过那质如蓝布的柔软天空，捻过那暗藏灵语的神湖圣水，向珠峰天堂疾驰，张着风与雪的翅膀。回到欧洲，我每天仍戴着藏银手镯、绿松石戒指和牦牛骨项链，每每触摸，都会听到那只对我耳语的、来自雪域高原的天堂之约。藏饰是吉祥平安的祝祷，是对六字真言的阐释。对生活在尾气和噪音污染中的北京人来说，通过藏饰，可以窥见高原的宁静与晴朗。之 31. An Appointment With Heaven I’ve been to Tibet, to that place on earth closest to the sun. I touched that soft, blue-cloth sky, ran my fingers through the waters of the holy lakes that spoke their hidden and sacred language, made my dash to Mt. Everest and opened my wings to catch the wind and snow. After I returned to Europe I wore my bracelets of Tibetan silver, my turquoise ring and my necklace made out of Yak bone. Each time I touched them I could hear that appoint- 约 ment with Heaven, spoken only to me coming from the Land of Snow. Ti- betan jewelry is a prayer for good luck and peace and an explanation of the Six Syllable Proverb, Om Man-i Pad-me Hum. For Beijingers living in an air and noise polluted city, through Tibetan jewelry they can get a glimpse of the peace and clarity of the high plateau.

大 32. 大戏院北京人称戏楼为“梨园戏院”，是因为那里只演京戏。“梨园”一词，要追溯到一千多两百年前既通音律，又爱法曲的唐玄宗皇帝。714年，他在宫内设“梨园亭”供乐师演奏、宫女歌舞，实际是中国第一所国立戏校。后来，玄宗不但被尊为戏曲祖师，“梨园”也成戏了京戏的代名词。京城的旧戏院雕梁画栋、宫灯悬穗，八仙桌，红木椅，曲声婉转，清茶飘香。曼舞轻歌皆世台，繁弦急管尽人情，台上的历史，台下的休闲。 32. The Grand Theater Beijingers refer to the opera house as the “Li Yuan Theatre” because all that is staged there is Beijing opera. The phrase “li yuan” (“pear garden”) goes back more than 1,200 years to Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang dynasty, who was an expert in tonality and loved Tang dynsty fa qu (“rule music”) music. 院 In 714 the Emperor erected a “Pear Garden Pavillion” in the palace as a place for musicians to play and for the Imperial ladies in waiting to sing and dance. In fact, it was China’s first national opera academy. Subsequently, the Emperor was not only honored as the founder of opera, the phrase “li yuan” became a byword for Beijing opera. In Beijing’s old opera house the fragrance of tea fills the air among the carved and painted beams, palace lanterns suspended in the air, large “Eight Immortals” tables, mahogany seats, and wonderful music and song. Dance and music all work together, giving free rein to human feelings, as history plays itself out on the stage and the audience relaxes and takes it all in.

33. 淘宝族乐园外国人到北京必做三件事：吃烤鸭、爬长城、逛潘家园。凌晨四点，灯光昏暗，树影斑驳，市场就已挤成淘宝一锅粥。家具鸟笼，古籍字画，文房四宝，钱币玉器，民族服饰，文革遗物……除了军火毒品，应有尽有。从前逛鬼市打灯笼，如今时兴打手电，一看那些手拎布袋、两眼圆睁、躬腰弯背的，肯定是成瘾的淘宝族。虽然那里的“现玩”比“古玩”多，不过懂行人只要耐心淘，总会有收获。逛潘家园要懂个规矩：族别人拿着的东西不要问价！ 33. The Flea Market When tourists come to Beijing, there are three things on their “must do” list: eat Beijing duck, climb the Great Wall and visit Panjiayuan. At four o’clock 乐 in the early morning, the lamp lights glowing in the twilight, the trees cas- ing mottled shadows, the marketplace is already in full swing. Furniture and bird cages, old books and calligraphy, the “Four Treasures of the Study,” coins and jade, ethnic costumes, relics of the Cultural Revolution...except for arms and illegal drugs, everything that should be here is, in fact, here. In the old days you would wonder around the “ghost market” with a lantern, today the fashion is a flashlight. When you see a person carrying a cloth 园 bag, eyes wide open, bending over to examine the items, then you know you have definitely spotted an addicted flea market aficionado. Although “modern antiques” outnumber “old antiques,” market insiders need only a bit of patience in “sifting for treasure” and they are bound to be rewarded with a catch. One rule you need to know about shopping in Panjiayuan: don’t ask what people have paid for their things!

赏 34. 赏春唐朝诗人白居易在《春游》中吟道：“逢春不作乐，但恐是痴人。”可见古人赏春，是风雅的趣事。春天的长安街迎春花黄、玉兰花白，颐和园万寿披绿，植物园桃花争艳，潭拓寺古木吐新。天坛的杏林更是杏花纷纭，微风乍起，无论头顶的蓝天还是脚下的绿地，都飘着细密如雨的残红。无论赏春的人有多少，每个人都会有一片彼此无争的希望空间。春 34. Springtime The Tang dynasty poet Bai Juyi in his poem “Spring Outing” wrote: “Not to enjoy oneself when spring arrives, Such a person, I fear, must be an idiot.” We can see by this that an appreciation for spring was an element of refined culture for our ancestors. Chang’an St. shows its yellow winter jasmine and magnolias, Wanshou Hill at the Summer Palace is draped in green, peach blossoms vie for beauty in the botanical gardens, and the ancient trees in the Tanzhe Temple all are budding green. The apricot trees at the Temple of Heaven are in full bloom, a gentle breeze suddenly comes up, and the blue sky above and the lush ground beneath your feet are bathed in sunset-red flowers floating on the air like a fine misty rain. No matter how many people there are appreciating the arrival of spring, each person will have his or her own individual “hope space.”

35. 月亮河月不知是月光流淌成的小河，还是河水凝结成的月亮？夜晚，散步在肃穆的紫禁城外，雍容华贵的御花园，变成了保险柜里的镀金盆景；曾经尘土飞扬、叫卖喧阗的皇城外树影婆娑，月光流银，天籁寂静。假山，亮亭台，小桥，流水，眼前的一切，虽然都是现代北京人的摩登造物，却也汇聚了中国古代园林的谐和精神。空间随着观景人的意境可敛可放，流动变化的，既是真实的，也是虚灵的。 35. Moon River Is it a small crystallized river, the trickling flow of the moonlight, or a moon created out of the river’s water? Strolling in the evening outisde the majes- tic Forbidden City, we see the stately and magnificent Imperial Garden as 河 if locked away in a bank vault and transformed into a guilded bonsai scene. The tree shadows play about outside the dusty Imperial City where ped- dlers had been hawking their wares, the moonlight like flowing silver, a quiet hush hangs over the landscape. Everything that meets the eye, the rockery, the pavillions, small bridges, the flowing water, though they are modern productions of today’s Beijing, they embody the spirit of harmony of the traditional Chinese garden. The garden space to the mind of the observer may be restricted or may be without limit, it is always changing, never the same, it is both real and ephemeral.

皇城根儿皇 36. 中国有句俗话：伴君如伴虎。可是住在皇城根儿的老北京，却过得清清净净，平平和和。一侧是高高的灰色宫墙，隔绝了历史沉重的凝雾；一侧是沉睡无波的护城河，拦挡了都市洪水般的喧嚣。皇城根儿的垂柳，简易城房前的花藤，枯了又绿，榭了又开，比河那边的绿化地自然，比墙那边的御花园恬静。偶然误入的，是迷途的游客，蓦然回首，仿佛置身于龙卷风的寂静核心。 36. The Foot of the Wall (“Huangcheng gen er”) 根 There is a saying in Chinese: being a companion with a monarch is like being a companion with a tiger. But the old Beijingers living at the “foot of the wall” pass a quiet and peaceful life. On the one side of them the tall, gray wall of the Palace isolating them from the burdensome realities of history; on the other side, the still water of the moat, cutting off the flood-like noise and hubbub of the city. Here are the weeping willows of “Huangcheng gen er,” the flower vines in front of the simple dwellings, 儿 drying out then green, withering then blooming, looks more natural than the man-made green lawn on the other side of the water, more tranquil than the royal garden on the other side of the wall. Occasionally a person will come wondering through–a visitor who has lost his way. Suddenly turning his head, he seems to find himself in the peacful and quiet eye of a hurricane.

37. 紫禁城紫皇城，既是曾经的辉煌，也是历史的沉重。气宇轩昂的三大宝殿，幽暗阴森的9999 间半宫室；金黄的瓦顶，大红的宫墙；庭院的怪柏，角楼的暮鸦；封存的旧事，禁蒙尘的威仪。曾几何时，诺大的皇城内只有一个男人过夜，万人之上的天子，囚困在浓重的阴气之中。三宫六院，勾心斗角；粉黛傧妃，寂寞争宠；太监宫女，争权夺利。威严的殿宇深锁寂寞，皇帝的命运，并不属于皇帝自己。 37. The Forbidden City The Imperial City–both a glory of the past and a heavy burden of history. The three imposing Great Halls, the 9,999 1/2 gloomy rooms (the 1/2 room is actually a stairwell and the total number of rooms was not to exceed the 城 10,000 of the palace of the “Jade Emperor,” or “Emperor of Heaven”), gilded roof tiles and vermillion Palace walls, the strangely shaped cypress trees in the courtyards and the crows at sunset on the watchtowers, the sealed memories of the past, the ghosts of fleeing kings–all this greets the visitor to the Forbidden City. It was not that long ago that just one man passed the night in such a huge palace, and that was the person set above all men, the Emperor, who was imprisoned in the gloomy atmosphere. The “three palaces and six courtyards,” the residential quarters of the royal family, were the center of intrigue where lonely concubines vied for the Emperor’s favor, and the eunuchs and palace ladies scrambled for power and profit. Locked deep inside the imposing palace buildings, the Emperor was not the master of his own fate.

38. 紫禁城的秘密故宫有许多看不到的秘密，还有许多看得到的。比如紫禁皇家宫苑的宫门都“朱扉金钉，纵横各九”，九为阳数，数字之极，八十一颗门钉象征帝王的尊贵。而故宫东华门的门钉居然少了一排，只有七十二颗，至今无人能解此谜。乾清宫是皇帝的寝宫兼办公处。宫内有个称为“建储匣”的保险箱，藏着全朝上下揣测的城秘密——皇位继承书，只有在皇帝驾崩后才能开启，并与皇帝身边秘藏的一份对照验证，方能生效，避免发生皇位之争。 38. The Secrets of the Forbidden City 的 The Imperial Palace has many hidden secrets, and many that are not hidden. For example, the gates of the Imperial Palace Garden according to the Da Qing Huidian (“Collected Statues of the Qing Dynasty”) were to have” vermillion panels and gold studs (“nails”) in nine vertical and hori- 秘 zontal rows.” The number nine was a yang (“positive or male”) number and was the highest digit. Eighty-one door studs symbolized the dignity and greatness of the Emperor. But the Donghua Gate is missing a row and there are only 72 studs. This puzzle remains unsolved even today. The Palace of Heavenly Purity was where the Emperor slept and worked. Here there is a box called the “heir apparent box” that contained the secret 密 document the entire court would be guessing at—the Imperial decree on the successor to the Emperor. The container was to be opened only upon the death of the Emperor and the document verified with a second copy kept on the person of the Emperor himself before the succession would go into effect, all this to avoid a struggle over the imperial succession.

39. 法源寺法这里不是囚牢，却监禁过宋朝皇帝；这里不是刑场，却牺牲过抗元忠良；这里的庙宇并不辉煌，却记载着磅礴的历史，弘扬着救世的佛法。大雄宝殿，高悬着乾隆皇帝的御书匾额；古刹丁香，会晤过诗人泰戈尔和徐志源摩。法源寺离京城闹市只有一步只遥，但晃若隔世，超尘拔俗。绿荫茂密，古墙斑驳，僧行如风，檐铃细脆，感觉听到了梵乐清音。 39. The Fayuan Buddhist Temple This is not a jail but the Song Emperor was once imprisoned here; it is not an execution ground, yet faithful officials who resisted the Yuan dynasty were 寺 sacrificed here; the temple building is not an imposing structure, yet it has seen much history and has promoted the dharma of the Buddha that gives salvation to all. High in the Grand Hall of the temple hangs a horizontal tablet personally inscribed by Emperor Qianlong. Amidst the lilac in the ancient temple, the poets Rabindranath Tagore and Xu Zhimo once met face to face. The Fayuan Temple is just a step away from the bustling capital but in a flash you find yourself in a completely different world, soaring above the mundane and ordinary. Amid the rich greenery and old mottled walls, monks glide by as if carried on the wind and bells under the eves give off a crisp, tinkling sound like that of a Sanscrit chant.

大 40. 大观园千载一部《红楼梦》，说不尽的大观园。这里既演绎了才子佳人的情感悲剧，也微缩了一个社会的崩塌和一个时代的无奈。世界上恐怕没有第二部小说，能象《红楼梦》一样给后人留下这么多线索和这么多空白，即使添入无数人的智力和想象，也只能破解一片梦，只能仿建一处景。这部书本身，就是一座永远不可能逛完的大观园。观 40. The Daguanyuan A book that comes along once in a thousand years, The Dream of the Red Chamber, and a park that is indescribable, the Daguanyuan (“Grand View Garden”)--here the tragic love story of two young lovers was played out, a story in microcosm of societal collapse and the helplessness of an age. There will probably never again be a novel able to leave posterity such a rich tapestry or such a blank canvass like The Dream of the Red Chamber. No matter how much intelligence or imagination could be brought into play, all that might be done is to analyze a dream, to re-create the scenes of a past world. The Dream of the Red Chamber is a “Daguanyuan” that never ends. 园

袖 41. 袖珍世界对于我们这一代在文革期间出生的人来说，世界是以天安门为中心划的一个圆。至于圆的边界在哪里？我们从未想过，也无从知晓。自小灌输的夜郎自大式自豪，使我们心安理得于对世界的无知。记得上高中时，我才第珍一次看到埃及的金字塔和巴黎的凯旋门，是在母亲同事送的一本挂历上。从那时起，我就怀了一个梦：一个人光着脚，到世界上走走。现在的孩子们实在幸运，拎一桶矿泉水，就在嬉笑中周游了世界。 41. The World in Miniature For those of us born during the Cultural Revolution, the world was a circle centered on the image of Tiananmen. And where were the boundaries of 世 this circle? We never thought about them, and we had no way to know about them. The ignorant pride we were imbued with since childhood made us comfortable with our ignorance of the world. I remember once when I was in high school I saw an Egyptian pyramid and the Arc de Triomphe for the first time. They were pictures on a calendar a colleague of my mother had sent us. From that time onward I cherished a dream: to travel the world “barefoot.” Kids today are really lucky. With a bottle of mineral water in hand, they can laugh and play and make a trip around the world. 界

7 42. 798 798，既是一个文化现象，也是一个历史现象。曾经的兵工厂，现在的前卫殿堂，在同一个空间内，包含了从 50年代新中国社会主义改造、工业化、文化革命、改革开放、先锋时代等一系列既彼此环扣、又相互割裂的鲜明历史痕迹，是中国现代艺术的实验场和大观园。矛盾中孕育和谐，模仿中蕴藏创造，幼稚中不乏思考，彷徨 9 中不断蜕变。798的空气，与北京所有的地方都不一样。 42. 798 Space 798 Space is a cultural and historical phenomenon. A former armament factory and currently an avant-garde venue, it contains the historical traces, both those that bound people together and those that split them apart, of Chinese history of the 1950’s, the socialist transformation of the New China, industrialization, the Cultural Revolution, the policy of reform and openness and the age of the avant-garde. It is a testing ground and grand exhibition space for modern Chinese art. Contradiction has given birth to harmony, 8 creation has emerged from imitation, intellectual reflection has character- ized the youthful mind and amidst constant searching, continual change. 798 Space is like no other place in the capital city.

摇 43. 摇滚婴儿北京摇滚，是世界摇滚史的婴儿；我弟弟伟民，则是最早在京城降生的摇滚婴儿之一。在学院胡同一号——我俩曾在那里长大的三间明朝老屋，曾是“做梦”、“穴位”、“神经”、“城堡”等乐队的产房。作为鼓手，滚伟民登过香港红勘的疯狂舞台；作为牺牲品，也随着早期摇滚沉入潭底。今天的商业化摇滚被软化了、美化了、俗化了，但愿有一天，新一代的摇滚婴儿能有人离经判道。失掉愤怒焦虑的摇滚不再是摇滚——就象没有开刃的刀，不能算刀！婴 43. Baby Rockers Beijing rock music is just a baby by world standards. My younger brother, Weimin, is one of the earliest rockers of the capital. The old three-room Ming dynasty house at No.1 Xueyuan hutong where we grew up was like a “maternity ward” for rock music groups. As a drummer, Weimin once got up on the crazy Harbour Plaza stage in Hong Kong; as a sacrificial victim 儿 he also sank to the depths of rock music in the early period. Today’s com- mercialized rock is a lot less rough around the edges, “prettified,” and more accessible to the average person. We can only hope that someday some of the new generation of rockers will strike out in a different direction. Rock without anger and anxiety is no longer rock—it is like a knife without an edge, you cannot call it a knife!

鱼 44. 鱼市中国人养鱼有两千年历史，养金鱼至少也有几百年。由于“金”、“吉”音近、“鱼”、“余”谐音，所以人们养鱼为图“吉利有余”。北京人养金鱼的嗜好受宫廷影响。无论故宫、北海、还是颐和园，只要有水的地方都有金鱼。金鱼分两种：四尾的龙睛鱼是宫廷和官宦人家养的真正“金鱼”，而两尾的鲤鱼类称做“小金鱼”。别看一个“小”字，价格能差十万八千里。在今天，北京人养鱼不仅图吉利，还为修身养性。养鱼的热情不仅扩大到热带鱼，还养比自己寿命还长的乌龟。市 44. Fish Market Chinese have been raising fish for 2,000 years, and raising gold fish for at least several hundred. Because the characters for “gold” (jin) and “good luck” (ji) have similar pronunciations, and those for “fish” (yu) and “surplus” (yu) are the same, people raise fish so that “good luck and profit will be in surplus.” The Beijinger’s fondness for raising gold fish was influenced by the Imperial Court. The Imperial Palace, Beihai and the Summer Palace all have gold fish wherever there is water to be found. There are two varieties of gold fish: the four-tailed Dragon Eye, the authentic “gold fish,” was raised by the Court and the eunuchs and then there is the two-tailed carp known as the “small gold fish.” But don’t let the word “small” fool you, for the price can be anything but. Today Beijingers raise fish not only to seek good luck and profit, but also as a form of self-cultivation. The enthusiasm for raising fish has not only spread to tropical fish, tortoises that live longer than their owners are also raised.

庙 45. 庙会庙会本是跟寺庙宗教活动伴生的集市，早在唐朝就已成俗，到了明代更为风行。一般在农历的每月初一、十五、二十五开市，最热闹的莫过于一年一度的春节庙会。赶庙会时，善男信女们不仅烧香拜佛、逛市采购、品尝小吃，还携老带小、呼朋唤友地看演出：唱戏的，说相声的，变戏法儿的，耍杂技的，踩高跷的，还有比武、摔跤、表演绝技的……现在庙会的宗教气氛越来越淡，成了“人往一块儿扎、钱往一块儿花”喜庆消费新形式。会 45. The Temple Fair Temple fairs were originally markets that were part of the religious life around temples. They were common as early as the Tang dynasty (618-907 CE) and especially popular by the Ming (1368-1644 CE). These fairs were generally held the 1st, 15th and 25th of every lunar month, the most popular by far being the yearly fair held during Spring Festival. When devout men and women would attend a temple fair they would burn incense and worship Buddha, buy things in the market, sample the snacks, bring along the old and the young, have a grand time with their friends watching the performances on offer: opera, “cross talk” (comic dialogue), magic, acrobatics, walking on stilts, as well as martial arts, wrestling and other remarkable feats.... Today the temple fair has increasingly less of a religious atmosphere and has become a new form for spending money on entertainment along the lines of the old adage: “When people gather, they crowd together; when money gathers it gets spent.”

金 46. 金秋北京是四季分明的城市，秋天是京城最美的季节。登高、泛舟、观月、赏菊、看红叶、吃月饼……北京人为自己安排了太多了节目，惟恐让秋天荒废一日。这种时节，无论是香山、颐和园，还是天坛、地坛，到处挤满了秋游的人。虽说“热闹之处无美景”，但“热闹之处有人情”。中秋节“对月独酌”，纯属自欺欺人。月圆时，全世界的华人的都在举头望月，思念亲人。秋 46. Golden Autumn Beijing has four distinct seasons but autumn is the most beautiful. Climbing, boating, gazing at the moon, enjoying the chrysanthemums, looking at the red leaves, eating “moon cakes” . . . . Beijingers have set themselves many things to do so they don’t waste a day. During this time of year there are crowds of visitors everywhere...Fragrant Hill, the Summer Palace, the Tem- ple of Heaven and the Temple of the Earth. Though some might say “busy places ruin the scene,” still, “busy places are where people get together with one another.” The idea that, as the Tang poet Li Bai once wrote, one could during this festival “drink wine alone under the moonlight” is pure self-delu- sion nowadays. But during the full moon Chinese all over the world gaze up and turn their thoughts toward family.

47. 世纪坛世乾坤轮转，岁月流逝，中华上下五千年历史，凝缩在世纪坛青铜甬道上镌刻的五千道刻痕上。2000年，中国人做了一次冷静回首：是什么推动文明的崛起？又是什么导致它与衰败？站在新世纪的交汇点上，历尽沧桑的中纪华民族又该如何面对？世纪坛的圣火辞旧迎新，指向太空的神针呼唤未来。 47. The China Century Altar The universe turns and the years come and go. Five thousand years of Chi- nese history are compressed and engraved on the 5,000 Year Bronze Path that leads to the Altar. In 2000 Chinese took a cold, hard look backward. What spurs the development of civilization? What leads to its downfall? Standing on the threshhold of a new century, how should the Chinese peo- 坛 ple, with their long history, face it? The Sacred Fire of the China Century Altar bids farewell to the old and welcomes the new, and the Space-time Probe points toward the heavens beckoning the future.

48. 玲珑塔秘史明代万历皇帝的母亲李太后盖玲珑塔，说是为“弘扬佛玲法”，背后另有隐情。李太后本是卑微宫女，因得宠于隆庆皇帝而生下万历。隆庆驾崩，李氏虽被尊为皇太后，可万历当时只有十岁，内外朝政由李太后执掌。但是由于她的“草根”出身，朝廷危机四起。于是她巧设心机，声称自己是“九莲菩萨”转世，广建佛寺。规模珑宏大的慈寿寺就为供奉她的真身——九莲菩萨所建。何奈清末一场大火，只剩下这座孤零零的砖塔。 48. The Secret History of the Linglong Temple 塔 The mother of Ming Emperor Wanli, Empress Dowager Li, built the Ling- long Temple it was said to “promote the Law of Buddha” but with an added hidden motive. The Empress Dowager was originally a lowly Palace maid but as a result of gaining favor with Emperor Longqing she gave birth to 秘 Emperor Wanli. When Emperor Longqing died, although Mme. Li was made Empress Dowager, she was in control of the Court because Wanli was only 10 years old. But because of her “grass roots” background, she was faced with Court crises at every turn. Then she put into effect an ingenious scheme, claiming she was reincarnated as the “Nine Lotus Buddha,” and built Buddhist temples on a broad scale. The enormous Cishou Temple 史 (“Temple of Compassion and Longevity”) was built for the purpose of wor- shiping her “true body,” the Nine Lotus Buddha. As luck would have it, a major fire at the end of the Qing dynasty (1644-1911 CE) burned the structure down and now all that remains are the brick pagoda we see today.

天 49. 天坛蓝天之下，古松怀抱。这座比故宫还要大四倍的祭天神庙，每个细节都是按古人对“天”的想象与理解设计的。双层的坛墙，南方呈地象，北圆呈天象，中轴的“神道”象征登天的道路。南部的拜天坛分三层，每层的铺石、栏板与台阶数字均为九的倍数，九为天数。北部祈年殿中央的四根龙柱代表四季，中层十二根金柱代表一年的月份，外层十二根檐柱代表一日的时辰。皇帝既称“天子”，祭天的使命自然责无旁贷。 49. Temple of Heaven 坛 Embraced by ancient pines under a blue sky, every design detail of this temple to Heaven, four times larger than the Imperial Palace, reflects the thinking and conceptualization of the ancients concerning man’s relation- ship to “Heaven.” Enclosed in a double wall, the southern square section symbolizes the earth, the northern circular section symbolizes Heaven, the “spiritual path” along the central axis symbolizes the road used to ascend to Heaven. The Altar to Heaven at the southern end is divided into three layered terraces, each having paving stones, bannisters and steps in groups of nine, nine being a “Heavenly” number. The northern Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest has four ornate “dragon” posts in the center representing the four seasons and 12 gilded posts along the inner circle representing the twelve months of the year. Along the outer circle are 12 eve columns representing the hour periods of the day. The Emperor was called the “Son of Heaven” and so naturally the responsibility of making a sacrifice to Heaven was his alone.

水 50. 水书诗与书法，是华夏艺术的一对孪生。诗，不仅可以吟咏，也可以书咏；书法，不仅借墨色流传，也能随清水挥发。在昔日皇帝祭天的神坛前，一位仙风道骨的平民老汉正凝神运气，泼水挥毫，书写一对唐人绝句，赠给“萍水相逢”的“外国友人”。挥发了的字，并非意味着永远消失——尤其是对一位摄影师的眼睛来说：阳光下的水书蒸发到天上，结晶的云总有一天会化成诗雨，落回到地面。书 50. Water Calligraphy Poetry and calligraphy are the twins of Chinese art. Poetry can be recited in voice, or it can be recited in writing; calligraphy can be done with ink for a permanent record, or it can be done with water and vaporized with the sun’s rays. In front of the altar where the Emperor once sacrificed to Heaven, a sage-like ordinary citizen concentrates his mind and spirit, sprinkles water on the ground, wields a writing bush and writes down a piece of Tang dynasty poetry as a gift to a “foreign friend” he has “chanced to meet.” The vaporizing characters by no means imply permanent loss—especially to the eyes of a photographer: the water characters vaporize into the sky beneath the sun’s rays. The cloud forming from the vapor will one day become poetic rain and fall back to the earth.

51. 露天舞场公园里辟出一片空场，路边放一台收提录音机。噪音刺喇，“嘭嚓嚓”，旋律走调，“嘭嚓嚓”。先跳“维也纳森林”，再跳“兰色多瑙河”……路过的外国游客看得露天目瞪口呆，连按快门：欧洲人优雅的宫廷舞，也被移植到露天街头。这一对悠然自得地造型，那一对煞有介事地甩头。八十年代激进纳新的年轻人，如今已经步入中年，“新新人类”的摇滚步伐赶不上了，但仍从容自娱地“嘭嚓嚓”…… 舞 51. Open Air Dancing A space opened up in a public park, a hand-held tape recorder off to the side, traffic noises, the beat of the music, the melody plays.... First it’s “Vien- na Woods,” then it’s the “Blue Danube.” Foreign passers-by are dumbstruck and quickly get their cameras going: the elegant royal dances of Europe have been transplanted to a public street corner in Beijing! Here a couple, a 场 model of carefree self-donfidence as they dance, there a very serious couple making a show of swing their heads every which way.... Youngsters from the 1980’s who were enthusiastic about learning new things are now entering middle age. The “neo-generation” cannot keep up with rock, but it still have fun swaying to a more gentle sound....

夜 52. 夜色墨绿的草坪，如正午的海；紫红的夜空，如北极的光；殿宇的轮廓，如海市蜃楼，天坛的古柏，如灵异的仙林。千百万俗众呢？白昼的喧嚣呢？皇园的威仪呢？一切都被这绿色淹没了，一切都被那紫红遮蒙了，万籁寂静，大音稀声。我长这么大，还从来没见过如此神秘的夜色，居然在北京城内——在我久别的家。 52. Evening Light 色 The dark green of the grass is like the sea a midday, the purple-red of the night sky like the aurora borealis. The outline of the palace buildings appears like a mirage and the ancient cypress trees of the Temple of Heaven look like a strange and mysterious celestial forest. Millions of people? The daytime noise and clamour? The quiet dignity of the Imperial Gardens? Ev- erything has been buried by this green, everything obscured by that purple- red color. Nature is quiet, few sounds are heard. As old as I am, I have yet to see another evening light as mystical as this, and it is right here within the walls of Beijing—my home from long ago.

俯 53. 俯瞰京城北京是个充满生机的古老都市。传统文明在胡同、宫墙和寺院里延留，复苏；当代的文明随着林立的大厦、立体公路桥一起蓬勃萌生。一层的《北京湾》青铜雕塑，将浓缩的京城地理尽收眼底；二层的《北京旧城》青铜瞰浮雕，再现了1949年老城的格局；三层的历史照片、地图及实物，展示了北京的文化特征与规划特点；四层的银幕，述说着老北京的变迁与不朽。在这里，可以俯瞰京城的过去与未来。 53. A Bird’s Eye View of 京 the Capital City Beijing is an old city full of life. Traditional culture lives on and is rejunivi- nated in the hutongs, within the Palace walls and the temples; contemporary civilization continues to blossom with its forests of tall buildings and its auto overpasses. On the first floor of the Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall is a bronze replica of “Beijing Bay” showing in miniature the city’s topography. The second floor has a bas-relief of “Old Beijing” showing 城 the city as it appeared in 1949. The historical pictures, maps and artifacts on the third floor show the unique cultural characteristics of Beijing and the key points of the building plan. On the fourth floor visitors can watch a movie that tells of the changes that have taken place as well as the enduring elements of the old city. In this Hall a visitor can get a bird’s eye view of Beijing, past and future.

菜 54. 菜市场俗话说，“越是民族的，就越是世界的”，北京城里的菜市场也正应了这句话。京城的菜市场数以百计，不仅与城里人的生活密不可分，而且是外国游客的观光地。北京城吸引他们的，不光是皇园庙宇、名胜古迹，还有原汁原味的百姓生活。商贩们满脸堆笑，叫市叫嚷嚷；采购的人问这问那，讨价还价；外国人兴奋异常，按动快门……菜市场，不仅是人们买菜的去处，还是了解民风民俗的风景线。 54. The Vegetable Market There is a saying, “the more national a thing is, the more international it is.” The Beijing vegetable market is a perfect example of this. There are 场 hundreds of such markets in the city. Not only are they inextricably tied in with the life of Beijingers, they are also sites for foreign tourists to visit. What attracts visitors to Beijing are not only the Imperial gardens and temples or the historical sites, it is also the authentic life of the ordinary Chinese. The vegetable sellers are all smiles, talking and shouting a mile a minute. Customers are shooting questions at them, haggling over prices. Foreign visitors join in the excitement and get their cameras going. The vegetable market is not only a place to buy food, it is a scene for understanding local customs and traditions.

笼 55. 笼中趣北京人形容清代遗老遗少时总爱说：“他成天提笼架鸟。”其实提笼架鸟并非专为摆谱儿，而是跟现代人骑摩托、玩游戏机、打高尔夫球一样，是一种情趣嗜好。北京胡同里的老百姓不少有这个喜好。养鸟的人分三类：有的养鸟为了看，有的养鸟为了听，有的养鸟为了玩，训练得法的聪明鸟可以凌空衔钱叼球。养鸟成瘾的人就像宠女人，虽然买时装的钱可以省，但中买“房子”的钱省不了。只要看看鸟笼市场的阵势，你就会明白…… 55. The Lure of the Bird Cage In describing the life of Qing dynasty city dwellers, Beijingers have always had a saying: “They just carried birds around in cages all day long.” In fact, carrying birds in cages was not done to impress people but was a passion- ate hobby, just like riding a motorcycle, gaming or playing golf is today. Many hutong residents in Beijing are fond of this hobby. People who raise birds break down into three types: some raise birds for their looks, some for their singing and some as an amusement. Intelligent, trained birds can soar in the air and catch money or balls in their beaks. People who are 趣 addicted to raising birds are like those who dote on women. Although they can save money on stylish clothing, this cannot be done when buying a “house.” All you have to do is see the array of bird cages for sale in the market to understand this point ….

天 56. 天宁寺在京城仿古寻幽，天宁寺是不能不去之处。寺院已经找不到了，只剩下孑然耸立的千年砖塔。天宁寺塔建于九百年前的辽代，经风历雨，依旧威仪。须弥座的壶门，浮雕精美；十三层重檐，庄重傲慢；三千只风铃，铿锵交响；金刚威武，菩萨慈颜，云龙飞舞，莲座宁清宁。“富有音乐的韵律，是中国古代建筑设计中的杰作”。试想当年，六十米高的宝塔傲立城中，嵯峨俯瞰，必是昔日繁华市井的标志性建筑。 56. The Tianning Temple For a quiet, beautiful spot reminiscent of ancient times, a visit to Tianning Temple is a must. The temple itself is no longer to be found and all that remains is the solitary “thousand year” pagoda that soars into the air. The 寺 Tianning Temple Pagoda was built nine hundred years ago during the Liao dynasty and has remained an awe-inspiring site through the vicissitudes of history. Here is the sumeru pedestal (throne) with its finely carved arches, thirteen levels of eves that proudly and majestically greet the visitor, 3,000 wind chimes jangling in the air, the diamond-hard might of the pagoda, the compassionate face of the buddha, dragon clouds dancing in the sky as tranquility reigns on the lotus throne. “It is replete with a musical rhythm, a masterpiece of traditional Chinese architectural design.” This 60 meter- pagoda proudly soaring skyward within the walls and looking down from its towering height must have been a symbolic structure for a prosperous and flourishing town.

对 57. 对话古朴的殿宇，尴尬面对着张扬的商厦；孪生的石碑，被市场的刀片无情地割开，孤零地张望着朝他奔来的喧嚣市井。雷神逃了，或者说“被请走了”；残庙虽在，但早已失掉了神威。人类创造的历史，不仅对人十分残酷，在利益面前，即使对神也不留情。这是历史的对话、时光的对话，是一个被割断喉管了的聋哑人，对着千人一面的拜金者的欣狂呐喊。话 57. A Conversation Simple and unsophisticated halls awkwardly face commercial buildings; twin stone tablets are cut with the knife of the market without emotion as they watch forelornly the noisy city approach. The God of Thunder has fled, some say was “asked to leave.” Although the remnants of the temple remain, the spiritual power has long since gone. In creating history, mankind is not only deeply cruel to other men, when profits are involved, he also treats the gods without mercy. This is an ongoing conversation with history, with time. It is the scream of the deaf and dumb whose power to talk has been taken away, a scream at the monolith of frenzied money-worshipers.

石 58. 石狮本来卫护皇城的神武石狮，如今被越来越无敬畏之心的当代人无休无止地克隆复制。或看守琳琅满目的商品、花花绿绿的钞票；或把守豪华饭店、洗浴中心；或受聘于火锅城、面包坊昼夜不歇地笑脸迎宾；有的被遣送国外，有的被派驻墓地……对石狮来说，“被贬谪了”；对市民来说，却是一种民主。时代更迭，京城变迁，石狮从集权的标志，变成了自由的象征。狮 58. Stone Lions The stone lions that once protected the Imperial City are today ceaselessly cloned by people with no sense of reverance or awe. They either stand guard over a dazzling array of commercial products or are imprinted on colorful banknotes; they may guard a fine restaurant or a public bath center; they may be hired on to greet guests day and night at a Hot Pot City or a bakery; some have been sent abroad, some sent to take up duties at a grave site....yes, the stone lion as been “degraded.” But for city dwellers, this change embodies a democratic spirit. Times change, as does the capital city, and stone lions are no different: from a sign of power they have become a symbol of freedom.

59. 城墙祭城老北京的威仪，依仗着层层叠叠的城墙：灰色巍峨的宫城，红墙琉璃瓦的皇城，有九座城门的京城，还有壮志未遂的城外城。二十世纪的抵临，敲响了北京城墙的第一记丧钟：1900年东安门被烧，十年后左安门坍塌，随后一段段城墙被拆，皇城早已名存实亡。七十年代修地铁，又推平了外城，如今只有幸存的几座城门和几段残垣，象几颗稀疏无用的牙齿摆在哪儿，墙无论怎么装饰，都很悲凉。新京城象洪水一样泛滥，记忆夯入大厦的地基。 59. Requiem for the city wall The dignified bearing of Beijing was owing to its many walls: the lofty gray walls of the Palace, the red glazed tile wall of the Imperial City, the city wall with its nine gates and the unfinished outer. The approach of the 20th century sounded the first funeral bell for the city walls of Beijing. The 祭 Dongan Gate was destroyed by fire in 1900. Ten years later the Zuoan Gate collapsed and then one by one, sections of the wall were torn down. The wall of the Imperial City has long since remained only in memory. During the building of the subway in the 1970s the Outer Wall was leveled and now all that survives are a few city gates and wall remnants, like a few, scattered useless teeth just standing there. No matter how you dress it up, it is a pitiful sight. The new city is like a flood, and memories of the old city lie pounded down under the foundations of new buildings.

东岳庙东 60. 这里不仅供奉着泰山东岳大帝、帝后天仙娘娘等道教尊神，还有主掌人间善恶福祸、因果报应、生死轮回的冥府圣班。戏子、琴师来拜喜神，木匠、瓦匠来求鲁班。根据民间说法，这里大大小小三千多尊神像，有求福的、求寿的、求子的、求财的、求技的、求平安的；有为活人祈福、为亡魂超度的；有高瞻远瞩、安邦治国岳的；还有不嫌琐碎，调节纠纷的……这里的神无所不包，无所不能，名曰道观，实为俗世众生的“心理诊所”。 60. Dongyue Temple The Dongyue Temple was a place not only for making offerings to the Taoist gods like Dongyue, god of the sacred mountain Taishan, and the Goddess of the Immortals, it was also used to as a place for netherworld ceremonies dealing with human good and evil, good fortune and disaster, retribution, 庙 and the cycle of life and death. Actors and musicians would come to pray to the God of Joy. Carpenters and bricklayers would come to beseech Lu Ban, the God of Carpentry. According to custom, the more than 3,000 small and large statues of gods that were here could be prayed to for prosperity, long life, children, wealth, skills and peace; some were for the living to pray for prosperity and for the sins of those departed; some gods looked after the peace and stability of the nation; and some were not averse to getting into petty things, regulating disputes....There was a god for everything here, and there was nothing they could not do. It was called “Taoism” but in fact it was really a “psychology clinic” for the common folk.

61. 现代面孔无所谓这是哪家宾馆，无所谓这在哪个城区。二十一世纪的北京，那些虽嵌满玻璃、却不透明的豪华大厦现代如同一道道屏障，隔断了古城传统的过去，展示给人们的是电脑游戏中假设的未来。大刀阔斧的老城改建，确实为渴望发展的北京人注入了一针兴奋剂。一边是老北京泣血，一边是新北京腾飞，在这阵至今未解的挛痛中，北京人应该慢下脚步反省片刻：为了我们所追求的“现代面孔”，是否决定得过于仓促？付出的代价是不是太大了？面 61. A Modern Face Whatever the hotel, wherever the area, the palatial buildings of 21st century Beijing, set with their opaque glass windows, stand like screens cutting off the traditional past of the ancient city and laying before the inhabitants the “virtual” future of a computer game. The reconstruction of the old city 孔 as it has fallen “under the knife and broad axe” has indeed given a shot of adrenaline to Beijingers yearning for development. Old Beijing sheds tears of blood while new Beijing soars into the sky. Amidst this spasm of pain, which is not yet over, Beijingers should slow down and take a moment to think: in the pursuit of our “modern face” have we made decisions too hast- ily? Have we paid too high a price?

62. 断垣情岛晚饭后，生人熟人聚在一起。甩手，拍背，躬身，抻腿，耍一套五禽戏，打一路太极拳，练一段意念功，走断垣一圈八卦掌……然后借着断壁残垣的博物馆似的灯影，扯扯物价，聊聊家常。公寓楼时代，缺少了街坊邻里；现代的脚步，冲淡了传统人情。对这些念旧的老北京来说：摩天大厦越筑越高，柏油马路越修越宽，街心的草坪成了激流岛，地上的月色成了桃花源。情 62. Gathering at the Wall Ruins After dinner strangers and friends alike gather together. Swinging arms, pounding backs, bending over, stretching legs, doing the “five animals exercise,” a cycle of Taijiquan, a round of Yiniangong mental concentration, some Baguanzhang shadow boxing....then by the museum-like lantern lights of the wall ruins they trade stories about the cost of things and chat about 岛 family matters. In the age of the apartment there is a lack of neighborhood, and the modern pace of life has diluted the traditional sense of human rela- tions. For these nostalgic old Beijingers, as the skyscrapers rise higher into the air, as the macadamized roads grow broader, the grassy areas that are left between the streets have become like battered little islands turned into a Shangri-la by the moonlight.

63. 自行车的命运根据《上海新报》1868年的报道，自行车是当时的街头自行奇景。1896年，三个伦敦人骑车环游世界，次年12月 22日抵达上海，轰动全城。末代皇帝溥仪为了骑车，锯掉了宫中的门槛。当时的媒体预言：“自行车必将大兴于中国。”八十年后，这个预言实现了，中国的自行车数超过五亿辆！四十岁以上中国人的初恋，几乎都与自车行车有关，北京成了自行车王国中的王国。然而，中国的自行车业在九十年代连遭雪崩：汽车时代的到来，结束了自行车王国的黄金时代。的 63. The Fate of the Bicycle According to a report in the Shanghai Xinbao of 1868, bicycles were an unusual sight on the streets of the city. When three Londoners who were 命 bicycling around the world in 1896 arrived in Shanghai the following year on December 22, they caused a great sensation. The last emperor, Pu Yi, had the door sills of the Palace sawed off to accommodate his bicycle riding and the media predicted: “The bicycle will be very popular in China.” Eighty years later, this prediction came true when the number of bicycles in the country surpassed 500 million! The first love of any Chinese over the age of 运 40 is almost alway related to a bicycle, and Beijing became the king of kings when it came to these two-wheeled vehicles. But during the 1990s the Chi- nese bicycle industry was buried in an avalanche: the era of the automobile had arrived, ending the golden age of the “bicycle kingdom.”

雍 64. 雍和宫 “这鼓一声，钟一声，磬一声，木鱼一声，佛号一声。乐音在大殿里迂缓地、曼长地回荡着，无数冲突的波流谐和了，无数相反的颜色净化了，无数现世的高低消灭了。谐音盘礴在宇宙间——解开一小颗时间的埃尘，收和束了无量数世纪的因果。这是哪里来的大和谐？在金漆的殿椽间，在佛像的眉宇间，在我的衣袖内、耳鬓旁、感官上、心灵中和梦乡里……” 64. The Yonghe Palace (Lama Temple) “The drum, the bell, the stone qing and the wooden fish sound along with the name of Buddha chanted by the monks. The music in the Great Hall rever- 宫 berates slowly, ponderously. Countless criss-crossing waves of sound and competing colors are harmonized, the countless differences of the temporal world are leveled. The harmony infuses the universe—for a split second the bonds of the temporal world are released and the chain of cause and effect is completed. Where is this great harmony coming from? From the gilded Hall beams, from the forehead of the Buddhist statue, from inside our coat sleaves, our ears, our organs of sense, our soul, our dreams....

书 65. 书城如果说甲骨文是商代的出版物，那么中国的图书史可追溯三千五百年。甲骨文，钟鼎文，竹简书，碑刻拓片，出版物的形式几经变迁。现代意义上的图书，则出现在东汉蔡伦发明造纸术后的六百年。中国现存最早的刻板印刷出版物，是唐朝初期（705年）的《无垢净光大陀罗尼经》。十一世纪中叶，宋朝的毕生发明活字印刷，更在图书史上功不可没。散步在西单图书大厦门前，你是否想到古代中国人的智慧？城 65. Book City If you call the oracle bone inscriptions of the Shang dynasty “publications,” then the history of publications in China goes back some 3,500 years. The oracle bone inscriptions, the bronze inscriptions, bamboo slips and stone engravings meant for taking rubbings all represent the changing form of published materials in China. Publications in the modern sense of the word appeared six hundred years after the invention of paper by Cai Lun during the Eastern Han dynasty (25-220 CE). The earliest surviving printed materials date from the early Tang dynasty (in 705), this is the Dha ¯ranı of the Pure Immaculate Light sutra. In the mid-11th century dur- ¯ ing the Song dynasty, Bi Sheng invented moveable type, an even more impressive achievement in the history of publishing. As you take a stroll past the doors of the the Xidan Book Mansion, does this get you thinking about the wisdom of our ancestors?

66. 神坛俗愿神据说，日坛原有一块白石砌成的祭坛。坛面铺着大红琉璃，象征太阳。每到春分日出时刻，皇帝都率领文武百官举行祭礼，气氛神圣，场面浩荡。现在，祭坛坛四周的矮墙仍在，火红的琉璃早已不见，只剩下残破的砖石与雨后的苔藓。晨曦里，一群老人喜兴起舞，老伯擂鼓，老妇舞扇，“咚锵咚锵咚咚锵”……在昔日的神坛，许着健康的俗愿。 66. Exercising at the Altar 俗 It is said that the Temple of the Sun Park (Ritan) used to have an altar hewn out of white stone. In front of the altar was a large piece of red glazed tile symbolizing the sun. Every year at the vernal equinox the Emperor would lead government officials in an imposing ceremoney admidst a solemn atmosphere. Today the four low walls surrounding the sacrificial altar still remain but the fire red tile has disappeared long since and all that is left are some broken bricks and moss. In the morning dawn a group of elderly people enthusiastically begin doing the fan dancing exercise, the men beating drums while the women wave their fans, “dong-qiang dong-qiang, dong- dong-qiang”....the sound reverberates around the once sacred altar as they 愿 dedicate themselves to their healthful pursuit.

67. 北堂福音北哥特式的白色教堂，红柱黄瓦的中式碑厅；指向天庭的教堂尖顶，眼瞪如铃的震邪石狮。堂外池畔的圣母是西方人面孔，堂内圣像上的玛利亚却是满清贵妇，墙外素白，墙内色艳。这西方与东方的数百年对话，虽然有堂趣，又不免尴尬。早期的西方传教士们，既传播了福音，也传播了鸦片；既有无私奉献，也有强盗劣行。尽管如此，中国人仍旧感激那些爱过并帮助过中国的使徒们，他们不仅带来了西方人的信仰，还带来了科学、教育与文明。 67. The Gospel of the North Cathedral 福 A white Gothic-style church, a Chinese-style stone inscriptions hall with red columns and yellow tile, a church spire pointing toward Heaven, a pair of stone lions with bulging eyes like bells frightening off evil—the North Ca- thedral is an imposing structure. The Holy Mother on the pond bank outside has a western face, inside in the holy paintings, the face of Mary is that of a Manchu noble woman. Outside, pure white--inside the church is painted in dazzling colors. This several-hundred-year conversation between East and West, although interesting, cannot help but be a bit awkward. The early western missionaries propagated the Gospel and along with that, opium. There were selfless contributions, but also thuggery and evil behavior. Nev- ertheless, the Chinese people are still grateful for those emmisaries who loved and helped China. They brought not only their western beliefs, they 音 also brought science, education and modernism.

68. 野茶馆野清代的北京，不仅名流会粹的大茶馆林立，在水滨巷尾，还开有许多野茶馆。野茶馆幽静清雅，不图热闹。矮矮几间土房，门前搭着芦棚，土砌桌凳，砂壶海碗。客人们呷着浓茶，听蝉鸣蛙鼓，聊年景桑麻。临湖的地茶方，总有更多的人凑趣，乘船饮酒，放乎中流。百年过去，后海岸边的野茶馆不仅没少，反而越开越多；不仅卖茶卖酒，还卖咖啡和雪茄。 68. The Country Tea House During the Qing dynasty Beijing was not only the home of a plethora of 馆 major urban tea houses that attracted distinguished patrons, along the wa- terways and in the alleys and lanes many “country” tea houses were in op- eration. These tea houses were serene and refined places, not looking for excitement. A few mud brick rooms, wicker booths set up in front, table and stools hewn out of stone, clay tea pot and a large tea bowls.... Guests would sip strong tea, listen to the sounds of cicadas and frogs, discuss the year’s harvest and farming conditions. More people would gather near lakes, taking boats out and drinking wine, floating in midstream. A hundred years later and not only are there no fewer country tea houses on the banks of Back Lake, there are increasingly more of them. And not only do they sell tea and wine, but also coffee and tobacco.

吧街吧 69. 十年前，这里还是服装、汽配的杂乱市场；现在一掸土气，独领风骚，不但是京城老外的消闲地，更是时尚族、白领族、演艺族、漂族和背包族的“消费特区”。这里的门脸相连，如不细辩，很难分清谁是谁家。这里既有清吧、闹吧，还有迪吧、同志吧；这里既演爵士、摇滚，也唱流行曲和乡村乐；这里既能容边缘群体，又能纳商海蛟龙。三里屯的生活从午后开始，直到凌晨才露倦意。 69. Bar Street Ten years ago this was still a wide open market area with clothing stores, auto spare parts stores, etc. Now, dusted off and with a new character, it holds its head high and stands out from the crowd. Not only is it a place 街 where foreigners spend their leisure time, it has become a “consumer zone” for the city’s fashionable people, white collar workers, entertainers, urban nomads and backpackers. The shop fronts here are right up against each other, and unless you look carefully it is hard to tell who is who. Here you will find “quiet bars,” “rowdy bars,” “DJ bars” and “gay bars.” In these bars you can hear jazz and rock, sing popular songs and country music. The bar scene is big enough for groups on the margins as well as the ambitious “business dragons” of the city. Life in Sanlitun begins in the afternoon and goes on until the wee small hours of the morning before any signs of weariness begin to show.

70. 中山公园这里的古柏成林，蔽日遮天；这里的果树满园，杏花如海；这里的假山层叠，花棚环绕；这里的水榭荡波，兰中山亭倒映；这里的中山堂，曾经停放过孙中山先生的灵柩；这里的社稷坛上铺着从各地贡来的五色圣土。皇帝视“社稷”为国家象征，五色土意为“普天之下，莫非王土”。筒子河上夏季泊舟，冬季溜冰。隔河眺望，是紫禁城森严的宫墙。公 70. Zhongshan Park The forest of old cypress here blocks out the sun. Fruit trees are all over the park and the apricot trees are like an ocean. Man-made hills cascade one upon the other, enclosed by flower trellises. The reflection of pond- side pavilions plays across the water. The body of Sun Yat-sen once lay here in the Zhongshan hall. The Altar to the god of grain and the soil is 园 spread with multi-colored “sacred soil.” The Emperor regarded the gods of grain and the soil as the symbol of the nation, and the point of the multi- colored soil was to say “there is no soil under Heaven that does not belong to the King.” Boats dock on the Tongzi River in the summer, and in the winter people go ice skating there. Across the river you can see the severe Palace walls of the Forbidden City.

71. 中华民族园中华五十六个民族，五十六种风俗，五十六段历史，五十六门语言，五十六种艺术，奇妙和谐地会粹一体，色彩斑斓地展现在京城的“龙脉”上。园中花树环绕，亭轩错落，竹屋掩映，泉水潺潺。这里是再现各民族生态环境、历史民俗的人文博物馆，也是奥林匹克公园的文化民组成部分，体现出2008年北京奥运会提出的“人文奥运”、“绿色奥运”的主题。 71. The Chinese Ethnic Culture Park 族 Fifty-six ethnic groups, 56 customs, 56 histories, 56 languages, 56 styles of art—all marvelously and harmoniously gathered into one body, colorfully ap- pearing on the capital “landscape.” Flowering trees encircle the park, pavilions and bamboo structures are everywhere, and the sound of spring water is 园 in the air. The Chinese Ethnic Cultural Park is a cultural museum that exhibits the ecological environment and historical customs of China’s minorities. It is also a cultural component of the Olympic Park embodying the 2008 Beijing Olympics theme of a “humanistic Olympics,” a “green Olympics.”

72. 历史舞台天安门广场，曾是百官下马、百姓禁入的宫廷广场。新帝登基，皇后册封，都在这里颁诏天下。皇帝出宫历史祭祖，这是必经之路。中国近代史的百年变革，这里是风云激荡的大舞台，1949年10月1日开国大典，共和国从这里开始了新纪元。半个世纪将过，2008年北京奥运会的倒记时表，耸立在广场东侧的历史博物馆门前，五个可爱的吉祥物“福娃”，代表北京人道出由衷的心声：“北-京-欢-迎-你！” 舞 72. The Historical Stage Tiananmen Square was once an Imperial square where officials dismounted as they approached the Palace and where the common people were forbidden to come. When a new emperor took the throne or an empress was invested, all this was officially announced to the world here. When the Em- peror left the Palace to worship his ancestors, this was the route he had to use. For the modern history of Chinese over the past 100 years, this has also 台 been the stage where the winds of change have blown. On October 1, 1949 the founding ceremony of the nation was held here and the Republic began a new era. A half century later the countdown clock for the 2008 Olympics rises in front of the National Museum of History on the east side of Ti- ananmen Square. Five cute “fuwa,” (“good luck dolls”) express the heart-felt words of all Beijingers: Beijing Welcomes You!

73. 红旗摇滚自1949年新中国成立，北京城每逢“十一”都赤旌猎猎。红色，是跨向未来的豪迈；金星，是引路的北斗。红旗几经风雨，几历磨难，几度春秋，几多变幻。二十一世纪的中国，正发生着翻天覆地的变化，红旗背后，巨厦摩天；五星之下，歌舞升平。今日中国，就是一团映天的赤火，让中国人自豪，令世界人瞩目。 73. Red Flags Rocking 摇 Since the founding of the new China in 1949, the sound of the red ban- ner fluttering in the wind has been heard each “10/1” in the city of Beijing. The red color represents the bold march toward the future, the gold star, the guiding North Star. Through all the trials and hardships, through all the years, through all the changes, it has always been there. And now the China of the 21st century is in the midst of earth-shaking change. Behind the red 滚 flag, huge buildings reach and touch the sky; beneath the five stars, people sing and dance and there is joy and peace. Today’s China is a red flame casting its reflection on the sky, filling the Chinese people with pride and drawing the attention and focus of the entire world.

其它全景册页由 Tamas D.Varga -Other panoramic albums by Tamas D.Varga D·瓦尔伽·托马士罗特·皮特换一个视角看匈牙利的首都布达佩斯我们的摄影作品将引导那些想要 I always thought I knew Hungary, as it is my homeland. However, I am still amazed by the 了解匈牙利首都布达佩斯的游客 abundant sights I witnessed while collecting 和那些熟悉这个城市的市民到一 the material for this volume. 些名胜古迹观光游览。我们借助 My previous impressions and visual experiences 于唯一能够综观全景的360度环 gained new meaning as I searched for sites wor- 景技术，为读者呈现出至今为止 thy of presenting in this panoramic technique, 可能不太熟悉的细节与氛围，通 and then searched further for the right perspec- tive from which to bring the topic to life while 过特殊的光学手段将空间尽现于 stretching it 360° degrees. In the process, I can 一条宽屏画面之中。 say I rediscovered Hungary. With the previously released album, Budapest 以画册为先导，我们还将在www. 360, as well as with the publication of Hungary budapest360.hu 网站上每月不断 360, I aimed at redefining the notion of panoramic photography. Because, what is the com- 地为都市爱好者、祝愿者和旅游 mon understanding of panorama? An image of 者们展现这座美景如画的欧洲大 wide angle and deep horizon. Contrary to this, 都市日新月异的新面貌。 I believe that you do not have to stand on a summit to sense the space surrounding you as a panoramic unit. Beijing 360° 北京360° ISBN: 978-963-87337-1-9 The desire to show, display, paint and photograph the space around us is as old as mankind. 自人类有史以来，企图表现、展示、描绘和拍摄我们周围环境的渴望便已 Just think of the cave paintings of Altamira and Lascaux as well as the tomb frescos in Luxor. 存在。想想西班牙阿尔塔米拉山洞（Altamira）与法国南部拉斯考克山洞 These paintings, which can be seen as the original examples of panoramic format, captured （Lascaux ）的壁画以及卢索克的墓壁画便知。这些画可以被看做是以广角 events and spaces in wide angle. 方式捕捉事件和空间的全景格式之最初范例。 Chinese painting formats are great examples of panoramic representation also. Most familiar 中国画也不乏全景图画的例证。最令人熟悉的是那些立式卷轴挂图。然而， are the hanging vertical scrolls. However, many large size panorama paintings were also crea- 9 789632 215303 ted during the Song Dynasty including Xia Kui’s more than 10 meters long horizontal scroll 许多巨幅全景画卷也在宋代时出现。包括夏圭的逾十米的横幅长卷《长江万 360Art Ltd., 2007 portraying the Yangze riverside and Zhang Zeduan’s Qingming Shanghe Tu. I very much hope 里图》和张择端的《清明上河图》。我非常希望以最新的数码技术而拍摄的 Budapest, Hungary 布达佩斯-匈牙利 www.beijing360.cn that modern panoramic photography taken with the latest digital technology will be met with 现代全景摄影能够受到热烈的反响。 a warm response.

Beijing 360° - panoramic photo album

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