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Mud cloth

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Bogolanfini, Mud cloth of Mali

Bogolanfini, Mud cloth of Mali

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  • 1. Mud Cloth bogolanfini From Mali
  • 2. Where? It is an African textile with varied said origins most renowned being Beledougou Bamana area north of Bamako in Mali.
  • 3. When? Excavations of archaeological deposits in caves in the Bandiagara area of Mali have proved the existence of a large cotton industry as early as the 11th century AD (Picton & Mack, 1989:31) depion mud cloth depict historical events of the 19th century (Polakoff, 1982:146).
  • 4. Traditonally Bamana women make the cloth during the non agricultural season which is between October and May.
  • 5. How? The cotton is harvested and handspun nearby. The looming process begins when men, using small hand or double heddle looms, weave the cotton into long strips, called finimugu. These thin strips (5 to 9 pieces) are them sewn together to create a panel. Women are the artists creating the designs and each have their own technique and style of preparing the cloth.
  • 6. • The cloth is soaked in mashed and boiled, or soaked, leaves of the n'gallama tree serving as a dye. Now yellow, the cloth is sun-dried and then painted with designs using a piece of metal or wood/bamboo. • The paint, carefully and repeatedly applied to outline the intricate motifs, is a special mud, collected from riverbeds and fermented for up to a year in a clay jar. Thanks to a chemical reaction between the mud and the dyed cloth, the brown color remains after the mud is washed off. Finally, the yellow n'gallama dye from the unpainted parts of the cloth turn white by applying soap or bleach. • After long use, the very dark brown color turns a variety of rich tones of brown, while the unpainted underside of the fabric retains a pale russet colour.
  • 7. CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE
  • 8. • Bògòlanfini is worn by hunters traditionally, as camouflage, as ritual protection and as a badge of status. • Women are wrapped in bògòlanfini after their initiation into adulthood and immediately after childbirth, as the cloth is believed to have the power to absorb dangerous forces released at such times. • Since 1980, Bògòlanfini has become a symbol of Malian cultural identity, promoted as such by the Malian government.
  • 9. Bògòlanfini patterns are rich in cultural significance, referring to : -historical events like a famous battle between a Malian warrior and the French, -crocodiles (significant in Bambara mythology) or -other objects -mythological concepts or proverbs.
  • 10. Why? Colour. Black background and white design are considered the traditional coloring of the cloth. A rust color is supposed to represent the strong supernatural powers that protect the hunter. It also signifies blood from either the hunt of from warfare and is useful as a form of camouflage. Women and girls typically wear the color White during ceremonial events. Gray is a rarely seen color but like rust, it serves as a camouflage for hunters. To the disdain of the older generation, untraditional colors such as reds, purples, yellows and oranges are now being used
  • 11. What? Changes. Due to the European colonialism, some of the traditional patterns were lost and brighter colours came into the picture. Since the independence in 1960, mud cloth developed toward a more modern look.
  • 12. Contemporary use
  • 13. In Fashion
  • 14. In other materials