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  • 1. STYLE I STYLE n early 2000, during a musical milieu dominated by Eminem, Limp Biskit and Britney Spears, a group of young indie rockers called The Strokes exploded onto the scene as the leading group in garage rock revival. Ryan Gentles, working as a booker at Manhatten’s Mercury Lounge heard their demo tape and was overwhelmed to the extent that he resigned to become their full-time manager. Frequently referred to as the sixth Stroke, his role as manager is above and beyond that of a mere booking agent, administrator or behind the scenes manager. The Strokes, including Ryan, operate as a rare democracy, to the extent that the band splits all profits in equal proportions, six ways. (Normally managers receive 10-20%). Esther Couch caught up with him to ask a few questions. Have you always been interested in music? Yeah, definitely. I have two older brothers who were always kind of the ‘marker for cool’ as you’re growing up, as older siblings tend to be. I would listen to my brothers’ albums - they were in high school at the time, so I would World fashion be listening to The Doors and Led Zeppelin, Queen, Guns n’ Roses and The Beatles. I remember not knowing what the hell they were singing about, the lyrics were obviously way over my head at that point…actually a lot of them still are. Both my brothers were very musical. I remember going to nightclubs when I was about 13 or 14 (accompanied by my parents, of course) to see my brothers play in some shitty bar or club and being blown away by the whole spectacle of actually seeing bands play live. It was so loud, and impressive like A Stroke something that I thought you only get to see on MTV. I went to my first real concert in 1990 at Giant’s Stadium, it was Billy Joel’s Storm Front tour! Then when I went to the Lollapalooza summer festival in Philadelphia in 1994 it was all over… I saw the Breeders, Nick Cave, Of Ge- The Beastie Boys, Smashing Pumpkins, and Courtney Love do a few songs, and it changed my life forever. I started a band that summer, got a job at a local record store and that was it for me. I was 16 years old.Was there a key nius moment when you decided that you wanted to work in the industry or was it something which you just seemed to fall into?I did some YLE - internships; first at Geffen Records in the Throughout the history of A&R department, and then at a local NYC music venue, The Mercury Lounge. I really popular music, managers have enjoyed doing all the ‘management’ aspects of often played an integral role in STTER promoting our band. At the end of my internship the formation and exposure of at Mercury Lounge, they asked me to stay on their bands. Many managers rest as a paid employee - something like $8 per behind the scenes, others adopt a hour or something. more aggressive approach. 30 IN VIEW Russell Lock up your daughters STYLE need to do as a business decision is not street and we were sold out an hour before what they want to do as an artistic decision. they hit the stage, and turning people away. If anything, being such closer friends helps While I was helping The Strokes during this discussion, not hamper it. Sometimes those early months, they asked me over I win and they’ll try it, but most of the time and over again to be their manager, and I they win and they shoot down the idea and always said “no”. I was really happy booking don’t want to do it, even if they acknowledge the venue and helping them, but I wanted to that it might help their short-time goals for stay at the Mercury. It was as the excitement success. The point is that I’m a manager grew around what we were doing, and as it who acknowledges that ultimately it’s their became more fun to help this one band that career, and their identity and their legacy. My I truly loved and these guys that I truly loved, only responsibility is to present these options that I started to seriously think about it. for them, let them know that this is what I think is the best way or this is what I think would be the repercussions of doing either I’d sent a copy of the demo to Rough Trade Brand X, Y or Z and let them make the decision in the UK per my boss’s suggestion and they about doing it or not. I try to keep my ego in bit right away. It was at that point that my life check and realise it’s their art not mine and changed, and I considered for the first time so they should always have the final say in leaving my dream job at the Mercury Lounge how to promote themselves the way they to be a manager; a term that I felt uneasy feel comfortable. about, as I was barely 23 years old, had no money in the bank and could hardly afford rent at my apartment (which I shared with 3 Is there a breakdown between the other dudes all sleeping in one big bedroom, creative role you may play as a manager just so we could afford the tiny, disgusting and the marketing aspects? place on 33rd street and 2nd ave). I was scared. I had never managed a band, I had Ryan Gentles Yeah, there is totally a no experience, and I had only known these breakdown between these two. Even when on to bigger and greater things and left guys for a month or two. I didn’t know any Ultimately, I ended up getting more it comes to touring, they’ve always been their mark on the music industry, and it’s conventional way to manage a band. All I responsibility and more confidence from VERY vocal about where they’d like to go, really rewarding to remember that I was could think of was just to try and get them the owners at the Mercury Lounge, and when they’d like to be home, and how they down there booking these bands in this whatever the hell they wanted. the woman I consider to be my ‘mentor’, want themselves “represented” with regards little club. Theresa Chambers. She was the lead to marketing and probably more importantly talent booker for the Mercury Lounge At what point did you decide to become a how they DON’T want to be “represented”. and Bowery Ballroom and about as Throughout the history of How and why did you become the full-time manager? My job is to take the language that we speak tough and street wise as they come popular music, managers manager of The Strokes? to each other and the decisions we make in in the music business. When she left, have often played an integral that room together, and try to get the huge It was sometime in November of 2000 that and the position became open at the wheels that turn at the labels to turn in a way I had a friend who would send me bands I became the full time manager, after I got Mercury Lounge to book the bands, we role in the formation and that reflects most accurately the way that she liked from the local music scene. the call from Geoff Travis in the UK saying managed to talk the owners into letting exposure of their bands. we envision it, so that THE BAND doesn’t She sent me a CD of a band called The he wanted to put out the demo I sent him as me book the room, at the tender age Many managers rest behind have to worry about that, and can just focus Strokes that she told me I should have a record, and fly The Strokes to the UK to of 21, which is pretty crazy, now that STYLEMAG. the scenes, others adopt a on being creative while I’m putting together into the Mercury Lounge. I listened to do a tour. At that point, I got them a music I think about it. At the end of the day, COM 28 more aggressive approach. what they would consider “the boring” part the CD, and that was it. It was the best attorney, a publicist and a booking agent. At they just wanted the best local bands of it. thing I had heard the whole time I had that point, I was like “OK, I’m building a team with the best draws to fill their club night From a stylistic point of view, the band has been at the Mercury Lounge, and we At first we just didn’t think of it. Then around this group….well, I guess that makes after night, and that’s what they relied evolved quite dramatically in the last six in the music business know about this got about 100 demos per week there. I someone in the band, probably Julian me their manager, I might as well stop on me to do. So, thinking that I had my years. band. Working at The Mercury Lounge listened to the three songs on the demo [Casablancas], said “hey, you don’t have denying it, and just take this chance”. I told dream job, I left school during the final you get to meet everyone, because 30 times the first day I got it in the office. any experience, and we don’t have any them I’d do it. I quit the Mercury lounge in weeks of my final class just 3 credits Have you played any role in helping their they all come through that door to see The demo was rough, but that voice experience… we both have the same to lose January 2001, borrowed $2000 from Albert’s shy of a bachelor’s degree from Pace image to evolve? some band or another at some point and those guitar sounds were brilliant and same to gain… let’s just split everything dad to pay my rent for 4 months because I University. I wanted to book local acts, in time…the lawyers, the label folks, and completely exceptional and stood we make 6 equal ways…”. We sat in a literally had no money and lived cheque to the ones without record deals, playing No, absolutely not. This isn’t the 60s the booking agents, the promoters, the apart. I booked them their first show room for less than an hour with the same cheque while working at the Mercury, and the local music scene, that’s what I $4.99 anymore, and there are no more Andrew publicists. They all have to come there at the Mercury Lounge, giving them a lawyer and worked out something no longer borrowed money from my old boss at Geffen found exciting. I can remember booking Loog Oldham’s or Brian Epstein’s or even at some point, and I made sure I made Thursday night closer spot which is a than a page or two, and signed it together (now our new publicist!) to buy a laptop, and so many bands that are now quite big, Malcolm McLaren’s. If you’re not a boy tons of copies of a new demo that The very coveted spot. I actually remember the same day. That was it. Is it difficult at didn’t look back. I got on my first airplane and back then they were just the bands band then no-one has any say in what you Strokes had just recorded (it became getting a lot of flack for giving them that times trying to maintain a perspective of the day that the 5 Strokes and I boarded a that hung out at all the same bars or wear or the way you comb your hair except known as “the modern age E.P”). We spot from my boss, but I just told him to what is best for the band when you are all plane to fly to London, courtesy of Rough at least played the same shitty, tiny for the musicians in the band… not in any sent it to all these people with a typed, trust me on this. such close friends? That is probably the Trade, to sign a label deal in the UK and do clubs. I booked Interpol in there several self-respecting rock band I’ve ever met to professional letter, inviting them to see most difficult thing about managing a band a tiny club tour of England. times, sometimes on the same bill as date, anyway. If anything, since we’re all this “great new band”. I had the Strokes I broke up my fledgling band about a like The Strokes that all have such very the Yeah Yeah Yeahs. I mean, maybe similar in age, they influence me. I’ll see play every Wednesday night of the month later and asked The Strokes if strong convictions and are quite astute 40 or 50 people would come through How were the management fees some shoes that Fab got or some suit Albert month that December. The first night, they wanted some help in promoting about making the right decisions in trying to the room the whole night, that was it… 30 negotiated when you first became bought, and think ”wow, that’s sweet!” and about 70 people showed up. By the their band. They said yes, and I set do the best thing for their art and for what but the music was awesome. Now of manager? then end up picking up a pair for myself. 4th Wednesday, the line was down the out to let every contact that I had made they believe in. Sometimes what I feel they course, both of those bands have gone
  • 2. 50 copies of Gordan Ramsey’s new book to be won Select SelectFood & Wine p ee pes &K out Reci Cut Food for thought Food &Wine In the French documentary The Gleaners and I, director Agnès Varda shows us a mountain of potatoes: a giant brown pile of spuds squatting in an empty lot. T he potatoes, she tells us, are being dumped simply because they’re the wrong size or shape. Heart-shaped potatoes are not acceptable. It’s a strong image of how much food is thrown away every day. At the World Food Summit in June 2008, the director-general of the U.N.’s Food and Agriculture Organisation, Jacques Diouf said, “in a single country, food wastage can amount to [US]$100 billion annually”. This excess seems even more appalling given Summer that, as Diouf added, we only need US$30 billion (A$31 billion) to feed the world’s hungry. World hunger aside, the environmental cost is also huge. According to the Australia Institute, we admit to throwing out a whopping A$5.3 billion worth of food each year. Nearly half the household waste we discard is food. Snap When we toss our leftovers into the bin, they go the same way as any other rubbish: to landfill. Once there, they don’t properly decompose because landfill is an oxygen- free environment. Instead, the food scraps bit of thought “I’m amazed with people who…leave a little ferment, producing methane - a greenhouse before a trip to the shops can help you avoid pad of butter untouched or leave half a cup gas 25 times more potent than carbon bringing home stuff you don’t need. And a bit wasabi tuna and of tea,” she says. “I never leave anything on dioxide. of creativity in the kitchen will help you find the plate and if I do it goes to the chickens.” sugar snap pea salad ways to use up your leftovers. Food Rescue Yet, this is small potatoes compared with the impact of growing, producing and As well as saving money, it could easily shrink Some people are enterprising enough transporting food that is simply thrown away. your eco-footprint by up to 10 per cent. As 4 x 150g tuna steaks to capitalise on this mountain of unused Edith Thompson says, “It’s a mind frame you olive oil, for brushing food. Dumpster divers, or ‘freegans’ raid At every step, from the farm gate to the have to get into.” 200g sugar snap peas, supermarket skips to find dented cans, ageing dinner table, food is wasted. Farmers discard yoghurt, even chocolate bars still in their Facts & Figures trimmed, blanched and T imperfect fruit and vegetables, supermarkets wrappers. order too much, restaurants over cater and thinly sliced o make the wasabi and lemon individuals shop too enthusiastically and suffer 1 tablespoon toasted In the French dressing, place the oil, lemon Although not everyone has the time or from ‘eyes too big for their tummies’. sesame seeds inclination to be rummaging about in documentary The Gleaners juice, wasabi, sugar and salt in a supermarket skips, the freegans are 1 red onion, thinly sliced And with more than a third of our eco- and I, director Agnès Varda wasabi and lemon bowl and stir to combine. preventing waste from ending up in footprint attributable to our food choices, this 1 large red chilli, seeds shows us a mountain of dressing Set aside. destination landfill - and they’re getting a waste makes a monumental difference to our removed and thinly sliced free lunch at the same time. potatoes: a giant brown planet. A British study reported that for every Heat a large non-stick frying pan ½ cup Thai basil leaves tonne of food waste avoided, a quantity of pile of spuds squatting in over high heat. Brush the tuna A commercial and more formal version of the ¼ cup (60ml) olive oil greenhouse gases equivalent to 4.5 tonnes of an empty lot. with oil and cook for 1 minute same thing is a chain of discount supermarkets carbon dioxide is saved. 1 tablespoon lemon juice based in Victoria called Not Quite Right. Why have we become so wasteful? Is it each side or until cooked to your 1 teaspoon wasabi paste Its stores stock groceries, dairy, liquor and because food is now relatively cheap? Or liking. Allow to cool and separate 1 teaspoon caster we only need US$30 billion personal care and beauty products, all is it because we’re such a high turnover (superfine) sugar into chunky pieces. Place the sourced from manufacturer excess or stock (A$31 billion) to feed the generation, not used to making every resource approaching its best-before date. sea salt flakes count? tuna, sugar snaps, sesame seeds, world’s hungry. lemon wedges, to serve onion, chilli, basil and dressing in Then there are various charities, which collect Edith Thompson, a former radio producer and Visit www.selectfood& a bowl and gently toss to coat. unused food and redistribute it to those in presenter who grew up during the depression, whopping A$5.3 billion need. now grows organic vegetables in her Divide between bowls and serve For more summer recipes worth of food each year backyard. She thinks the reason people are so with lemon wedges. Serves 4. But it’s easy to stop wasting food at home. A wasteful is because they’re too busy. selectfood&wine 11 10 selectfood&wine SelectFood & Wine Words : Taylor Eason I drag corporate wineries though the mud. That’s interesting and enlightening to hear. Family-owned companies exude more Right now, we’re expanding our labels, devotion and spunk than mainstream, either establishing, partnering with or buying money-driven entities, so it’s painful when wineries that fit our philosophy and fill a void, they sell out to big business, even for good like higher-tier cabernet producer Louis M. reasons. Martini in Napa. We also have McWilliams and Black Swan in Australia. And a lot of Maybe the founders want to finally enjoy others. [54 brands, including: MacMurray retirement, and their children don’t want Ranch, Barefoot Cellars, Rancho Zabaco and to live knee-deep in vineyard dirt. It seems Dancing Bull.] o insane that anyone would eschew the wine st How is Gallo positioning itself for talk lifestyle but, hey, people have their reasons. t Selec o future growth and changing consumer Gall One family has allowed this pastoral life a habits? Gin to bind them — a family that has trudged through the mucky hardship of government Not what you regulations, market fluctuations and consumer In the late 1970s, we started buying land fickleness: The Gallos. in Sonoma County to begin making higher quality wines from grapes we farmed. That Yes, that Gallo, of pot-bellied jug wine fame. led to the Gallo of Sonoma line [which has Perhaps you considered Gallo to be one since been renamed Gallo Family Vineyard]. of those soulless corporate drones? Sure, We’re also diversifying for the younger they successfully market umpteen cases of drinker — they want to try new stuff. Malbec think wine annually, but they are, indeed, family- is growing by leaps and bounds, and we now owned and operated. They have been since have a partnership with Los Alamos winery 1933 when Ernest and Julio established in Argentina. But our long-term goals are to the company. In fact, 15 of their children, balance out the portfolio and focus on mid- grandchildren and great-grandchildren still range wines. run the largest family-owned winery in the Perfe world. To give you an idea of the scope and After talking with Gina, I felt surprisingly depth of their offerings, one in every four relieved. And after conversations with the bottles of wine poured in the U.S. is sold by principals at Louis M. Martini winery, I E&J Gallo. Whoa? Yes. Corporate? No. learned the Gallos are good stewards. They purchased Martini in 2002, and have poured I drag corporate wineries though the mud. Family-owned To put my mind at ease with these enviable, much needed resources into the enterprise. ct Po leviathan stats, I recently interviewed third Sounds like the Gallo family practices what it companies exude more devotion and spunk than mainstream, generation Gina Gallo, one of seven kids, preaches. money-driven entities, so it’s painful when they sell out who jumped into the family business in 1991. She started out in sales and followed her to big business, even for good reasons grandfather Julio into winemaking shortly thereafter. Although her face has smiled back rk from magazines and her credit cards never max out, she’s surprisingly down-to-earth and cool. She spoke frankly about Gallo’s plans and the challenges of working for a family business. Taylor: What advantages does Gallo have Refreshing healthly meals being family-owned and operated? Gina: Agriculture is perfect for a family business. There’s no immediate return on investment on a grape crop so we have the luxury of thinking long term. Also, we’re a to make your mouth water big foodie family and we all get along. That helps. I conducted an impromptu poll in my office, asking what my co-workers thought of when they heard “Gallo.” Virtually everyone replied “cheap” or “jug” wine. How is Gallo overcoming that reputation? Recommended Wines From the Gallo portfolio: Frei Brothers 2006 Gordan Ramsey Pasta Pasta Pasta Chardonnay Russian River, $15 $4.99 MacMurray 2006 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, $16 0ver 20 summer Talks food and Louis M. Martini 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, $25 pasta recipes the f-word Whitehaven 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, $19 selectfood&wine 31 30 selectfood&wine
  • 3. alice fashion - American music - art - Mystic travel- life- Rick Owens- There is no denying Rick Owens has been at the top of his game ever since he introduced his sophisticated urban silhouettes in the early 90s. His clothes have been widely copied and worn by countless celebrities, from his gorgeous washed leather jackets to shawl-like skinny knits and floor-length skirts in murky tones The theme of this issue is distortion. What does that word evoke to you? I can totally relate to it. For me, distortion means a lot I prefer his straight arias to the pop of things. It’s about altering, enhancing, exaggerating, stuff. Some of these songs dated a emphasising, corrupting, celebrating and owning what bit but I still listen to his ‘Samson and you do. Delilah’ and ‘Dido and Aeneas’ arias. Your clothes are always wearable. Are you inspired Talking about longing, those songs – by what you see on the street or do you feel performed by a man in inspirational distanced from it? make-up – are dripping with it. I’m not on the street the way I used to be, but I remember the basic ideas: anti-conventional longing,” but it sounds nice, doesn’t it? flamboyance, embracing the grotesque and feeling Yes it does. So was it about desire in a way? immortal. As I got older I kind of got that out of my system, so my aesthetics became more relaxed. how to stop Vestiges remain though. Longing is something everyone can relate to. Salome’s longing for John the Baptist; grimly Can you talk me through your austere spring/ determined hours at the gym longing for a perfect summer 09 collection? body. Even drug highs are a longing for euphoria. It’s swearing that longing for validation – a timeless, classic motif. I was kind of thinking ‘healthy, disciplined, hard The silhouette you worked on was soft and fluid, elegance’. even when you showed more tailored pieces. There was a feeling of ease and comfort too. Is What fabrics did you use to get that effect? or at least how to simplicity necessary in uncertain times? I always go back to my georgettes, crepes and silk On the contrary, I think that during hard times people gazers; but this season I had a fantastically drapable swear creativly are only going to buy something that truly engages soft finish for alligator that I’m going to be using until them, and it might be the moment for a frivolous, defiant you all get really sick of it! gesture… But I suppose anytime’s a good time for that! “ The footwear was slightly odd. Can you tell us Did religion inspire your last show? Some elements the idea behind it? seemed to refer to ancient Egypt and priests. up to I think that having weight at the end of the leg makes I do love a bit of mysticism. I don’t believe in any that part of the body look skinnier and kind of floppy. [religion] but I’m attracted to rituals and devotion. I Having that weight drag also adds a nice note of you no good rather glibly described my show as “Priestesses of abandon… Did you find it odd? 11 12 at the sun dance pretty film festival Birds of a Feather spring Peter Jensen i love When luminary British illustrator “ and all-round artistic talent Julie candy Verhoeven paired up with award- winning Danish fashion design thing star Peter Jensen to create key pieces for spring/summer 09, the result could only ever be inspiring heath Leger talks to us about his new What happens aussie flick when you combine a pair of shoes with Darren Brass? Tattooed sneakers that’s “I asked Julie to collaborate with me this season because she’s an old friend of mine (she was my tutor what. Darren for my Master of Arts at Central Saint Martins), and I felt that what we were working on for spring/summer 09 was very much in the vein of her illustrations and – of Miami Ink aesthetic. “Each season I have a muse who I base the collection fame – is most on. They are often characters or actresses from films and this season our muse is American actress Jodie Foster. Julie has been looking at four iconic well known for Jodie Foster films (made at different points during the actress’s career) and has taken elements from each and worked them into her little Julie Verhoeven his graffiti style universe of illustrations. While I have different muses each season, there is always a signature Peter Jensen tattoo work but aesthetic that I would describe as wearable, young and daywear. It’s accessible and there is a naïve, childlike quality to the designs along with a touch of Scandinavia also has a long and Britain. “Julie and I will be creating a few things together history with for this spring/summer collection. We’re particularly thinking about dresses and a silk scarf featuring digital placement prints.” skateboarding 14 13
  • 4. MF Stuff Scene from Mayfair SHOOT FIRST, STUFF THE QUESTIONS It’s the end of the year, which means the video game publishers have been seriously busy, throwing top titles at us in time for Christmas. Fancy some pointless violence? Then read on. Call of Duty: World At War takes the top selling series back to its World War II roots, as you campaign in the jungles of South Asia against the Japanese, and tackle the Germans as the Russians press deep into German territory. If we’re honest, then we’ve only really had a chance to play the online multiplayer version. And it rocks. Like a demented chimp. Using the same game engine as CoD4, the only real differences are locations and Do we ever get tired or bored reading your sordid confessions? Not a chance! The one weapon types. Everything else is as you like it. Which means cracking online firefights and a solid single player campaign, this time with the addition of co-op, so you and a friend can fight your way through to thing we do get is jealous, because you lot seem to score more often than we do! the end of WWII! There’s even a flame-thrower! Cracking graphics combined with tweaked gameplay (the Japanese soldiers often feign death, suddenly leaping up to knife you in the back!) means yet another success story for Activision. An absolute must buy for fans of shooters. From the same stable, we have the game based on James Bond: Quantum of Solace. Now, ‘game of the DEAD GOOD FUN BOARDING BONANZA film’ projects are usually diabolical, but luckily developers Treyarch have used the same game engine as CoD. Which means very smooth movement, standard first person shooter controls and plenty of dapper, If you’re planning on taking to the slopes this winter, then it’s You can’t help but think that, should the suited action. Naturally, you play the role of Bond (albeit in first person), with the game’s action closely important that you do it with style, and a surefire way to do this world be invaded by flesh eating zombies, it following the film, so don’t expect me to give the plot away. The cast, and Daniel Craig himself, all appear is to bag yourself the Royal iPod jacket from snowboarding gear would only be fair for the talentless, moronic, in the game, with Bond appearing during third person moments when the camera pulls back to allow aficionados, Surfanic. The funky pinstripe design is guaranteed to oxygen thieves that regularly inhabit the Big you to pull off a pre-recorded move. Or QTE, as they’re called in the trade. Overall, the game’s a definite have you cutting a dash as you throw a big stiffy (?) into a radical Brother house to be wheeled out as the first improvement on recent Bond tie-ins, mainly thanks to the mix of action and stealth and the use of the stalefish (??), and the fully integrated iPod system – complete with victims for the brain-munching monsters. CoD4 game engine. Online multiplayer looks to be a blast, too, although when we tried to play (before the dinky little control buttons in the arm – will allow you to drown out Surely. Well, sadly, in this comedy-horror game’s release), we were the only people online! Expect lots of sniper rifle and run and gun action if you with your favourite tunes the worrying crack as you crash down from extravaganza from Nathan Barley creator go online with this one. Great stuff. an overambitious gay twist (???). Practicality comes in the shape of and host of the hilarious Screenwipe, Charlie Horror/survival games have always been a popular genre on consoles, with Resident Evil ruling the a handy goggle pocket, goggle wipe, storm flap and ski pass holder, Brooker, the exact opposite happens, as roost, but Dead Space is Electronic Arts’ latest challenger, and it absolutely blew us away. You play Isaac and the mobile phone pocket means you can even call for your own Britain gets taken over by flippin’ zombies, Clarke (see what they’ve done there?), engineer. Sent to fix a large mining ship, you soon encounter ambulance. and the safest place to be is, yep you grisly goings-on as you traipse through dingy corridors trying to make repairs. The entire crew is dead, With a full day on the slopes ahead, you’re going to need some guessed it, inside the Big Bro house. Is there their bodies turned into hideous ‘necromorphs’ whose limbs become bony knives or worse. Unfortunately, storage – perhaps for a packed lunch and a flask – but there’s no no justice in the world? you’re only armed with tools (although there is a gun in the game), and have to use things like plasma point donning a trendy jacket and then Set over five episodes, the housemates, cutters to kill your enemies. The graphics and audio are absolutely stunning; the eerie noises, scrapes, fucking up the image with a scabby led by unlucky production runner Kelly, try moans and thuds will send shivers up your spine, while the zero gravity sections are something to see. Jansport rucksack from off the to survive and make their escape as the The developers reckon on at least 20 hours of play with Dead Space, and so far we’re only about five market. The iPod Beat Bag, zombies decimate the world and make their hours in! This one could become a cracking little series and is definitely one to buy. also from Surfanic, will way ever closer to the fresh meat inside the transport your thermos, gates. Will they escape? Do you really want All three games are available now on Xbox 360 from all good retailers. mobile phone, iPod, and me to spoil it? Well, too bad, because I had even your snowboard, in to sign a form saying I wouldn’t. So there. a fashionable manner, and Shockingly gruesome for an E4 show, WHEELY GOOD READ WHEELY GOOD READ the easy reach iPod control Brooker’s script is hilarious, the gore comes panel means direct access to thick and fast, and it isn’t half satisfying musical entertainment during seeing a random selection of ex-Big Brother When it comes to handy little gadgets for listening to our favourite any snowbound hike. types getting their throats ripped out and tunes, you really can’t go far wrong with top quality toys from Perfect. their guts chewed up. Gear4, and we’ve been rocking out with these two new little The Royal Jaime Winston is cute and sexy, and handles the lead role well, and beauties. Firstly, for a discreet little desktop speaker, we’re loving iPod Andy Nyman is absolutely brilliant as the aggressive, contestant-hating the Blackbox Micro. USB powered, it’s teeny tiny and plugs jacket producer, and revels in the brilliantly sharp, comic lines. And the sight of directly into your computer to free your legally downloaded music (priced Davina McCall all zombied up and trying to bite people is well worth the – we’re not pirates (yaaaargh!). But don’t let the size fool you, as £120) and the iPod price alone. it packs a serious volume punch, with its special SFX gel base, Beat Bag (priced £50) Dead Set is available now from all good stores, comes packed with that uses any flat, solid surface to enhance the bass and improve If you like expensive, shiny cars, then pay attention. Two cracking car are available at loads of great extras and costs £19.99. the sound quality. And at just £19.99, it’s perfect for your office, books have just popped on sale, and feature some of the most drool- home or even to take away on holiday. Secondly, we’re also really worthy metal to ever grace a showroom. The first book, Ferrari Legends, digging the super Gear4 Bluphones (£49.99), lightweight bluetooth is exactly that; a beautifully presented tome featuring frankly gorgeous headphones, that fit snugly round your lugholes and provide top photography courtesy of Michel Zumbrunn. Trust us, this is some of the quality sound, without those pesky frustrating wires that threaten to best car photography you’ll see, although it doesn’t hurt that the subject GAME ON! garrotte you at every turn. And best of all, we make Preston Matt matter itself is eye-wateringly pretty! wear them in the office, so he can keep his terrible Indian music to Working with motoring journalist, Richard Heseltine, Zumbrunn presents Yes, okay, we know these games have already been out for a little while, but we got them himself! Check out for further details. 40 vehicular milestones in Ferrari’s history, and the end result is the at Christmas and our mums hid them under the tree and wouldn’t let us unwrap them until ultimate coffee table book for any self-respecting tifosi. Heseltine’s words the big day. Which seriously messed up our schedules, but what you gonna do? are the perfect accompaniment to Zumbrunn’s lens. Anyway, as you can imagine, the festive period was taken up by pretty much non-stop Turning from the sublime to the more realistic, The Car Design Yearbook video games action – well, you know, when not eating and drinking till we puked, at any 7 is exactly that. Covering current trends in automotive design, design rate. And we couldn’t have been entertained by two better games. First off, we found consultant Stephen Newbury and journalist, Tony Lewin, cast an expert ourselves battling through a desolate wasteland, fighting off a marauding army of ugly, eye over the 130 or so concept and production cars released over the mutant monsters. No, not ladies night at the Croydon Chicago Rock, but the futuristic last 12 months, examining the direction the motoring industry has taken battleground of Fracture. You play as Jet Brody, battling against an army of mutated and predicting future features. While some of the cars discussed are warriors in this action packed shooter. It’s not the most tasking game, but the graphics are perhaps less glamorous than those offered by the prancing horses chaps pretty good, and it’ll provide a fair few hours of frenetic shoot-em-up fun. in Italy, this is probably a lot more relevant to anyone interested in the Secondly, we slipped into our spidey suits for a bout of web-slinging action in Spiderman: way the motor industry approaches the future. Once again, excellent Web of Shadows. New York City is under threat from a symbiote invasion, and good old photographic work helps to illustrate the technical points made by the Spidey is the only man who can help. And it gets even more interesting, as you get to writers, and some of the concept cars shown will have you shaking your switch between the red suit, and the cool, evil back suit, and decide whether to team up with the goodies or the baddies. Sweet! Slightly more head in bemusement. grown-up than previous Spiderman games, and with more meaty adventures and controls, you’ll be swinging through the streets with ease and Both titles are published by Merrell and can be found in good bookshops. fun for many an hour. Alternatively, contact the Merrell orderline on 01235 465500. Both games are available now and cost the average price. www.paulraymond.com_91 24_Mayfair Mayfair_27
  • 5. A PAUL RAYMOND PUBLICATION MO teradise AR RN ST Vol 74 No1 #1 PO PATRICK W ell hello there all my lovely Men Only TERA British boyfriends! Yes, that’s right, Tera’s here and she’s here to stay! My good friends at Men Only asked me to turn you all on with my body and my filthy mind and that’s just what I’m going to do. So hold on to your lovely hard cocks because we’re gonna get busy… Now, as some of you will already know, my husband and on screen stud, Spyder Jones, is also in the US rock band, Biohazard, and since I’m lucky enough not to have a boring day job I get to accompany him on tour whenever they’re out on the road. So I’m sitting here in our hotel room right now, writing all this up for you while he’s cleaning himself up after a little pre-show sex. I love coming to Europe, not only because the cities are so different to the US and there’s so much history behind them all, but because I get a real kick out of fucking in another country. I have a list of the places I’ve visited in my life and next to every one of them is a column with lots of boxes for me to tick off if, and when, I’ve completed one of my numerous sexual goals. One tick for straight sex, one for giving head, one for taking it in the ass, one for coming through oral sex, one for three way fucking, and one for lesbian Welcome to MO ER Teradise BETT MO E BLU Tera Patrick, the number one pornstar in the world, has a new fuck house – right here at Men Only! Photos: Mike Honcho fun! Plus, there’s an extra box on the end of it all for anything extra special that might happen along the way. But usually when we’re out on the road we like to indulge in some private video making (the best of which make it onto my website). Just now, I played one of my favourite games – how fast can I make my man come? That wouldn’t be much of a challenge to me WELCOME TO if my old man didn’t get to fuck every hot porn star that comes our way, but since he’s boned just about every name you can think of, you can believe that I have my work cut out! He went out to get us some lunch and I got myself ready for a surprise cock-sucking attack. First, I put on some of my sexiest underwear, a black lace push-up bra and matching knickers that cut right into my ass and make my butt cheeks look so round and juicy you could eat them like a peach. Then I got the video camera TERADISE! out and set it up so that you could see exactly what I was doing right on the TV screen. So when he came back into the room, stuffing a club sandwich into his face, he was confronted by the sight of my sweet ass and juicy, wet pussy right in front of him on the TV, my fingers probing both my holes. www.paulraymond.com_63 24_Mayfair Tera Patrick’s Wicked World SHOCK MO reviews DVD Reviews Games Reviews IN THERAPY Alektra Blue is the 24 year old American pornstar with killer legs Alektra Blue is the 24 year old American pornstar with killer legs On The and piercing bright eyes who and and piercing bright eyes who and CHRISTINE Couch With After the raving success of Kill Bill, After the raving success of Kill Bill, Asking a cast of primarily Japanese actors with little or no English to act Alektra Blue E Sukiyaki Western Django. OF TH David Carradine must have had the David Carradine must have had the an entire movie speaking in English could be seen as akin to asking John GAMEONTH pick of scripts with which to follow pick of scripts with which to follow Sargeant to dance the fandango with his feet nailed together and his cock Contender Home Entertainment up that hit. Afterall, if John Travolta up that hit. Afterall, if John Travolta M stuffed into a barrel of bees – entertaining but so very, very wrong. But that’s 4/5 managed to rekindle the flames of his managed to rekindle the flames of his CONDITION not factoring in having the talent of director of Ichi The Killer, Takeshi Miike, career off the back of Pulp Fiction, career off the back of Pulp Fiction, behind the camera. PUCHI there was no reason why Carradine there was no reason why Carradine Sukiyaki Western Django cobbles together the plot of Sergio Corbucci’s couldn’t do the same. So why the hell couldn’t do the same. So why the hell Django and Sergio Leone’s A Fistful Of Dollars, and wraps them both up in the did he chose this turkey to sail back did he chose this turkey to sail back mother of all Japanese samurai movie influences, the Taira-Minamoto War. Or, out onto the choppy seas of stardom? out onto the choppy seas of stardom? in other words, it’s two classic spaghetti westerns chopped up with a katana. White Crane Chronicles follows White Crane Chronicles follows Miike’s eye for visuals is outstanding, and even though you’ll be struggling at SOM Carradine (aka White Crane) as he Carradine (aka White Crane) as he times to understand what’s being said, it matters very little when the visuals are seeks revenge for the death of his seeks revenge for the death of his so eye-catching that you can watch this entire film without listening to a single Sukiyaki Western Django. martial arts master, Myling, who is martial arts master, Myling, who is E word and still come away knowing that was 90 minutes well spent. OF TH killed when the warlord Khan Xin’s killed when the warlord Khan Xin’s Contender Home Entertainment When a wandering gunslinger rides into a town that’s just waiting for the FILM NTH troops attack the home of Myling’s troops attack the home of Myling’s bomb to go off between two warring factions of heavies, the Genji and Heike 4/5 MO Wudang monkes and slay everyone Wudang monkes and slay everyone gangs, he inadvertently flicks the switch from edgy stand off to full blown gang Sex Toys For in their path. in their path. warfare and starts a chain of events that culminates in predictable buckets of A Flawless Fancy So, that’s the martial arts movie by So, that’s the martial arts movie by bloodshed. numbers plot sorted out, which, when numbers plot sorted out, which, when You’re going to recognise the plot within the first five minutes but it’s it comes to it, matters little as long it comes to it, matters little as long tantamount to Miike’s talents that even though you know what’s going to Rich Boys as the fight scenes are shit hot. But as the fight scenes are shit hot. But happen you want to see it just the same. watching Carradine fight at the age watching Carradine fight at the age Who cares that this is meant to be the American Wild West? Who cares that of 73 is as excruciating as watching of 73 is as excruciating as watching you can’t really understand a word anybody says? And who cares that you a fat Steven Seagal waddling round a fat Steven Seagal waddling round know the plot before the movie’s even begun? It’s a gorgeous ride through a the screen, beating up on fitter, faster, the screen, beating up on fitter, faster, hail of bullets and sword slashing and we defy you to not love every minute of it. younger men. Clearly, it’s been edited younger men. Clearly, it’s been edited Christ, it’s saying something when the only natural English speaking member of to make it look like the guy’s still got it to make it look like the guy’s still got it the cast, Quentin Tarantino, is the worst actor on screen! Do not miss this, it’s a but one tiny moment half way through but one tiny moment half way through PLUS gives the game away when Carradine gives the game away when Carradine has to jump off a stage to beat up Asking a cast of primarily Japanese actors with little or no English has to jump off a stage to beat up some fool bullies – it’s like watching a to act an entire movie speaking in English could be seen as akin to some fool bullies – it’s like watching a After the raving success of Kill Bill, After the raving success of pensioner get off a bus! asking John Sargeant to dance the fandango with his feet nailed pensioner get off a bus! David Carradine must have had Kill Bill, David Carradine must Add to that the pain of keeping your together and his cock stuffed into a barrel of bees – entertaining but Add to that the pain of keeping your the pick of scripts with which to have had the pick of scripts eyeballs on the screen between fight so very, very wrong. But that’s not factoring in having the talent of eyeballs on the screen between fight follow up that hit. Afterall, if John with which to follow up that scenes as the crap plot unfolds, and director of Ichi The Killer, Takeshi Miike, behind the camera. scenes as the crap plot unfolds, and Travolta managed to rekindle the hit. Afterall, if John Travolta Ms Kin K Bootz the horror of discovering that there’s Sukiyaki Western Django cobbles together the plot of Sergio the horror of discovering that there’s flames of his career off the back managed to rekindle the two parts to this Chronicle (dur… Corbucci’s Django and Sergio Leone’s A Fistful Of Dollars, and two parts to this Chronicle (dur… of Pulp Fiction, there was no flames of his career off the what’s chronicle mean?) right after wraps them both up in the mother of all Japanese samurai movie what’s chronicle mean?) right after reason why Carradine couldn’t do back of Pulp Fiction, there the closing credits sweep by, and influences, the Taira-Minamoto War. Or, in other words, it’s two the closing credits sweep by, and Tales From the same. So why the hell did he was no reason why Carradine you’ve got yourself a surefire recipe classic spaghetti westerns chopped up with a katana. you’ve got yourself a surefire recipe chose this turkey to sail back out couldn’t do the same. So for career death if ever there was one. Miike’s eye for visuals is outstanding, and even though you’ll be for career death if ever there was one. onto the choppy seas of stardom? why the hell did he chose this struggling at times to understand what’s being said, it matters very White Crane Chronicles follows turkey to sail back out onto the little when the visuals are so eye-catching that you can watch this The Darkside Carradine (aka White Crane) as he choppy seas of stardom? entire film without listening to a single word and still come away seeks revenge for the death of his White Crane Chronicles knowing that was 90 minutes well spent. martial arts master, Myling, who follows Carradine (aka White White Crane Chronicles White Crane Chronicles When a wandering gunslinger rides into a town that’s just waiting is killed when the warlord Khan Crane) as he seeks revenge Bright Spark Productions for the bomb to go off between two warring factions of heavies, the Bright Spark Productions Xin’s troops attack the home of for the death of his martial arts Genji and Heike gangs, he inadvertently flicks the switch from edgy 2/5 2/5 Myling’s Wudang monkes and slay master, Myling, who is killed stand off to full blown gang warfare and starts a chain of events that everyone in their path. when the warlord Khan Xin’s culminates in predictable buckets of bloodshed. So, that’s the martial arts movie troops attack the home of You’re going to recognise the plot within the first five minutes but by numbers plot sorted out, which, when it comes to it, matters little as long Myling’s Wudang monkes and slay everyone in their path. it’s tantamount to Miike’s talents that even though you know what’s as the fight scenes are shit hot. But watching Carradine fight at the age of So, that’s the martial arts movie by numbers plot sorted out, which, going to happen you want to see it just the same. 73 is as excruciating as watching a fat Steven Seagal waddling round the when it comes to it, matters little as long as the fight scenes are shit Who cares that this is meant to be the American Wild West? Who screen, beating up on fitter, faster, younger men. Clearly, it’s been edited to hot. But watching Carradine fight at the age of 73 is as excruciating as cares that you can’t really understand a word anybody says? And make it look like the guy’s still got it but one tiny moment half way through watching a fat Steven Seagal waddling round the screen, beating up who cares that you know the plot before the movie’s even begun? gives the game away when Carradine has to jump off a stage to beat up on fitter, faster, younger men. Clearly, it’s been edited to make it look It’s a gorgeous ride through a hail of bullets and sword slashing some fool bullies – it’s like watching a pensioner get off a bus! like the guy’s still got it but one tiny moment half way through gives the and we defy you to not love every minute of it. Christ, it’s saying Sukiyaki Western Django. White Crane Chronicles Add to that the pain of keeping your eyeballs on the screen between fight game away when Carradine has to jump off a stage to beat up some something when the only natural English speaking member of the scenes as the crap plot unfolds, and the horror of discovering that there’s fool bullies – it’s like watching a pensioner get off a bus! Contender Home Entertainment Bright Spark Productions cast, Quentin Tarantino, is the worst actor on screen! Do not miss Add to that the pain of keeping your eyeballs on the screen between fight Add to that the pain of keeping your eyeballs on the screen between 2/5 this, it’s a hidden gem. 2/5 UK £3.50 Vol.74 No.1 scenes as the crap plot unfolds, and the horror of discovering that fight scenes as the crap plot unfolds, and the horror of discovering that 24_Mayfair www.paulraymond.com_91
  • 6. MF Motors Beauty of the beast Ford Form On When not hustling the local sports bike nuts improve downforce and sucker it down to the around their favourite Sunday afternoon road’. roundabout (why do they do that?), the Together with the basic shape it’s an engine tsaeb eht fo ytuaeB tsaeb eht fo ytuaeB monster will be lapping up attention wherever it we’ve seen before, of course, as it’s used in parks. To say the Monster is ugly is like telling any number of fast Fords and Volvos. Now your kids Christmas isn’t happening this year. though it’s got new camshafts, a revised For pure naked aggression there’s arguably cylinder head and gasket, modified intake and Don’t be an idiot and don’t dis the badge. only one thing that will top the Monster 1100 exhaust manifolds, and substantial tweaks Ducati’s legendary air-cooled Monster breathes again, – and it isn’t yours truly trying to get in the to the management system and turbo boost DAVID LONG insists you give Ford’s new and FLICK CLACKER throws his leg over the new beast shower before my kids. There is another pressure. The track is an inch or so wider Focus RS the respect it deserves. Monster 1100, the 1100S. Essentially the same than the standard sporty Focus too, whilst to take it for a thrap… bike but with a little more glitz in the form of stronger and longer driveshafts, those revised H carbon-fibre front mudguard, belt cover for suspension settings and retuned steering each cylinder and exhaust protectors. engineering complexity and, of course, to keep mean that the RS Team have been able to ow weird’s this? It’s got five cylinders, Pics: Ducati Motor Holdings I The icing is the clever use of gold paint on the price down to something we can actually optimise traction and controllability in a way 2.5 litres, twin turbochargers, 296 the wheels to match the quality replacement afford. rarely seen in a front-wheel drive hatch. can rev it to destruction in an effort to impress horsepower, more than 400Nm of t’s a long time, 15 years, and in terms of Ohlins suspension used on the S-model. More significantly perhaps, after literally tens And it looks the part too, doesn’t it? With somebody, or something, at the lights. torque, a top speed of 150mph+ and it’ll rocket motorcycle production, it’s even longer. Whether this little lot justifies the extra £1400 of thousands of development miles – and its wider, more muscular wheel arches, this In the first of its six gears the Monster revs out from zero to 60mph in under six seconds. Plus There aren’t many motorcycles that have on top of the projected asking price of £7800 is numberless circuits of the Nürburgring – he gloriously lurid green paint-scheme, and a cleanly. Forget about power output but think it’s German and it’ll go on sale early next year stood the test of time from inception to still another talking point altogether. All we should and his guys have done it because they’re set of revised, deeper side mouldings with more about the 79.5ft-lb of torque pulsing from for under £25,000 – and yet the chances are being on sale today. As a fresh-faced 15-year- be discussing is the merits of a 15-year-old confident that it’s the right thing to do. triangular air vents behind the wheel arches. the crankshaft to stretch the chain and pound you won’t buy one. Why not? Because it’s a old back in 1993, Ducati’s Monster 900 design made good for 2008 by a 34-year-old Confident, too, that with the new ‘RevoKnuckle’ These and the sharp bonnet louvres clearly the rear tyre. Wheelies off the throttle in first Ford, and you’re an idiot. wouldn’t have meant that much if you weren’t Monster fan. gear are mandatory. Second gear doesn’t see Okay, okay. Maybe that’s a bit harsh. Maybe into motorcycles. Now 15 years on, the boy the Monster give the same urgency to ride you’re the exception, one of the very few has become a man, possibly married and with vertically by accident, but punch forward it punters out there who isn’t hung up on brands, a family of his own and, more likely than not, does and it’s a great feeling. Especially when who’s happy to be seen behind the wheel of looking for some peace, time on his own and in third and fourth gear on B-roads where something other than an Audi, or a Merc or a excitement. fast exciting rides come with point and squirt BMW, and who recognises that, particularly if Cue a seriously big interest in Ducati’s latest tactics. it’s your own money you’re spending, Ford’s air-cooled Monster: the Monster 1100. Ducati’s Slick gearbox and clutch actuation doesn’t current crop is up there with the best. latest has also grown up. Although it retains always shine through, particularly when the The Focus ST certainly is, outselling the Golf the obvious Monster silhouette – hunched bike’s hot and stuck in traffic. There isn’t one GTI by two-to-one in its first year thanks to a muscular look, wide handlebars, exposed valid reason why you’d be stuck in traffic combination of blistering performance, the right engine – everything bolted to the tubular steel though, because the Monster 1100 is a smart, price and, of course, that irresistible orange trellis frame is new. Even the frame itself… agile mover and anyone wanting to make paintjob. But now there’s this instead: the new The upshot of three years’ worth of design the most of its race-heritage will find it loves Focus RS hyperhatch, or if you prefer, an ST aggro to change an icon and retain its iconic to deal with traffic like a slalom skier on the with knobs on. Designed to build on the ST’s looks has paid off. Quite simply, this is the best front suspension (and a special Quaife signal its unique identity – no-one’s going slopes. success and to cash in on the company’s air-cooled Monster Ducati has produced; this victory in the 2007 World Rally Championship, semi-active limited-slip differential to improve to mistake this for a Halfords kit job – and Making the most of the wide, forward placed is saying something, because the deposed it’s also a clear demonstration of Ford’s traction and on-limit handling) RS owners will together with a set of beetle-black trim strips one-piece handlebars and lightweight chassis 1000cc S2R Monster the 1100cc version determination to take on Germany’s finest get everything they need to reduce torque- and mirrors, a new front bumper with a deeper lets you cajole the Monster into turns at replaces was bloody good. as well as Subaru’s new WRX STI and the steer and to get that power down when and front airdam, a mesh lower grille and chrome- speeds and angles you probably thought you The thing is, with the new Monster there isn’t Mitsubishi Evo X. where they need it most. To this end, and edged xenon headlamps in their own black wouldn’t achieve. But then that’s what happens one particular area that really, really shines. Inevitably, rally bods will be disappointed to fitted with standard 19-inch wheels but with housings, it all looks very ‘now’. when suspension, tyres and great feedback all Every aspect of the bike stands out: engine, learn that it’s a front-wheeler rather than a special springs, dampers and anti-roll bars, There’s more sinister black stuff round the get together for a non-stop party. looks, ride quality, noise and so on. Okay, so WRC-style all-wheel drive machine. But RS it rides a little lower than the already-low ST, back too, with air-channeling venturis tunneling Tyres for the test were Bridgestone’s latest it can be argued the claimed engine isn’t the engineering boss, Paris Dakar racer Jost and according to Capitos traction and handling under the car and a black spoiler on the top BT-series, BT016. Now these are good in the most potent V-twin in the world, but then the Capitos, says don’t panic. He says he’s have been completely reworked ‘to of it, whilst the interior of the first car officially sense they suit the bike’s agility and give good only other air-cooled competitor is Harley- to break cover featured a black roof-lining and grip even before fully warm. When they do done it this way deliberately, to minimise the Davidson. None of its engines are quite as twin Recaro microfibre-covered sports start to ripple at the outer edges, then you will car’s overall weight, to slick as the Monster’s. seats colour-matched to the exterior – already know there’s a good amount of ground reduce its Twist the throttle wide open at standstill and a shade designed to echo the original clearance that has been explored. Helping to you get a booming exhaust/airbox note that 1970 Escort ‘Rallye Sport’ RS1600 boost confidence even further are the Showa gets louder as the revs settle. It’d be a lot competition car. Admittedly, even with front forks and Sachs rear shock. This tidy set louder if the electronics didn’t register the bike carbon-look trim, alloy-effect highlights, up will tell you exactly what the tyres are doing wasn’t moving, but it does and caps revs to and RS-branded scuff plates, and what the suspension is putting up with to 6200rpm, some 4000rpm less than it does steering wheel, pedals, gearknob and keep the rider in place. when it is rolling. Still, at least it means nobody instrumentation, the standard spec’s not that luxurious, and there aren’t going to SPECIFICATIONS be that many optional extras, either. But 2008 Ducati Monster 1100 then the RS was conceived as a driver’s Price: £7800 (tbc) (S-model £9200 tbc) car and that means less is more when it Power/torque: 95bhp/79.5ft-lb (claimed comes to sat-nav, DVDs and all the rest of it. crankshaft output) Engine: 1078cc (98 x 71.5mm) air-cooled, Trouble is these days, and no matter how good they get, no-one wants to drive 4-valve Desmodromic actuated, four-stroke 90° Fords because they’re perceived as less V-twin with six gears and fuel injection. Chassis: tubular steel trellis frame. ‘exclusive’ than Audis and BMs. The irony Brakes: 2 x 320mm front discs with 4-pot being, of course, that because no-one buys them – and because everyone these calipers, 245mm rear disc with 1-pot caliper. days drives an A4 or a 3-Series – it’s the 43mm fully adjustable telescopic front forks, Ford which looks like the exclusive choice. monoshock rear suspension adjustable for Consequently they’re reckoning to build pre-load and rebound damping. Tyre sizes: 120/70 x 17in front, fewer than 10,000 of these, 3,000 have been pre-ordered, and if there’s any justice 180/55 x 17in rear. the rest’ll sell out fast. www.paulraymond.com_53 24_Mayfair Mayfair_27 52_
  • 7. The American Dream From how much you pay your staff to the cut of the colourful tee, getting the basics right is something Dov Charney, boss of American Apparel, insists on American Apparel
  • 8. Sexy? Americal Apparel, Inc. Headquarters/Factory Can ethics be sexy? Dov Charney, founder of American Apparel 747 Warehouse St. thinks so. A little over three years ago, the Canadian entrepreneur Los Angeles, CA 90021 and self-confessed “Jewish hustler” set up his fledgling clothing label from a base in downtown Los Angeles. Offering a fair-pay Phone: (213) 488-0226 deal to his largely immigrant workforce and overseeing every Fax: (213) 488-0334 aspect of the design and manufacturing, Charney has created one of the most covetable labels around and revolutionised the idea of “ethical fashion”. “Right now, the world is becoming more aware”, he says. “We’re elevating the quality of humanity”. Today, American Apparel is an empire to rival the major streetwear brands. Charney has over 140 stores worldwide selling AA’s trademark selection of leisurewear in a dizzying palette of colours. He has also just signed a deal with private financiers to expand the company to the tune of £61 million. “Ask me what I’m gonna do with it,” he says - “ask me.” I oblige. “Well actually, I can’t tell you right now. But wait and see. We’re gonna go crazy!” Born in Montreal (in the same neighbourhood as Naomi Klein, author of No Logo and outspoken critic corporate thing of fashion maverick. He is fond of a grand, provocative statements: “Socialists have a tendency to eat their own babies,” he says, at one point in the interview. “I want to make products that appeal to a new generation,” he adds. “As I travel about, I see a new international web emerging of artists, photographers and financiers. It seems like it doesn’t really matter where you are from anymore. Where people are located geographically has become less than how they think.” Eschewing traditional business models and ignoring the competition, Charney has forged his own unique path within the highly competitive fashion industry, rooting out a new type of customer. Whether it’s their much praised Y-fronts (“a particular favourite of mine,” says Charney) or a head-to-toe fluoro look (very nu-rave), the AA experience seems an almost anti-fashion statement. While many fledging brands establish their identity by emblazoning their logo across the range, Apparel wear is discreet to the point on anonymity. Fun, functional and emphatically straightforward, the label aims to reach beyond seasonal trends and dictated style. “There’s a definite utility to what we do,” he says. “We avoid the baroque where possible.” American Apparel “ We sew We’re Europe Canada approximately Distribution Centre Distribution Centre elevating the American Apparel GmbH 1 million garments 350 Louvain #203 Neuer Zollhof 1 Montréal, QC H2N 2E8 quality of 40 221 Düsseldorf “ each week. Phone: (514) 939-0245 Phone: +49 211 239-2563 Fax: (514) 939-0695 Fax: +49 211 239-2709 humanity Clothing manufacturing is a very tough job, but we’ve always tried to do things differently. In the early days we talked about “sweatshop free” now we talk less, however we continue to provide the same benefits (and more) to our workers.
  • 9. Live The Dream Colours Although Charney claims to never read fashion magazines, undoubtedly one of the keys to American Apparel’s ongoing success is it’s simple, sexually charged advertising. Reminiscent of outtakes from homemade porn films and often featuring employees in various states of undress (an “ early on displayed Charney’s own decidedly pert buttocks), the ads chime perfectly with the current fashion climate. After one much-publicised run-in with the press, Charney is now keen to play down the nods to “porn chic” People but still, there’s no denying that he has made the humble tee, jogging pants and sweatshirts seem rather more exciting - a major achievement for what are willing is essentially cotton basics. to pay a “People are willing to pay a higher price for the perfect T-shirt,” says Charney. “The question isn’t what does it cost? “but does it fit perfectly higher well?” Now extending the line to include such items as skinny jeans (in a rainbow range of colours, naturally), he is refreshingly honest about his price for product. “There is always room for improvement. I want to optimise our “ performance, to become an expert at what we do. We didn’t build this the perfect thing for a fast buck.” For someone who currently has £61 million riding on him, Charney seems surprisingly laid back. Having kick-started the current T-shirt trend for ethical fashion, he remains unfazed by the likes of Levi’s and Nike moving into similar territory. “I believe in spontaneous combustion, “ he says, trying to explain why so many labels are thinking along similar lines at the moment. “I think it’s only natural.” Whether it’s a global sportswear brand suddenly discovering its conscience or new entrants into the field, such as Ali (“Bono’s wife”) Hewson’s label Edun, Charney argues that there’s more than enough room for everyone. “No one wants to work for a company where it’s known that the source is exploitative. There’s always going to be some levels of injustice but if we know that there’s absolute injustice then something needs to be done. Right now, there’s so much opportunity. It could be good for everybody.” To all the fashion haters, meanwhile, his message is clear. “Let’s not be so negative. Get out of your chair and see what you can do.” For us “sweatshop free” was never about criticizing other business models; it was about attempting something new. It comes down to this: not blindly outsourcing, but rather knowing the faces of our workers and providing them American Apparel the opportunity to make a fair wage.
  • 10. broomfeild type 18/4/05 4:29 pm Page 47 4PLAY foot fet 28/4/05 2:46 pm Page 47 4PLAY03 joan wise 24/5/05 3:39 pm Page 70 FP Nick Broomfield_Vol. 01 No.1 FP Feature_Vol. 01 No.3 FP Fetish Invasion_Vol. 01 No.2 Fetishes Queen of Best Foot the Scene Forward Nick Broomfield talks T about his controversial hey used to be film, his admiration for called the ‘outer fetishists and a man with fringe’ of the adult X-video The worlds of his head in a toilet… marketplace – films featuring naked mainstream adult feet and legs and all the sexual entertainment and e know, To those in th ss, the shenanigans that veteran foot-o-philes know O fetish have been riginally released in 1996, she’s the Bo nd a can quite naturally go along with them. There coming closer over Fetishes was the ground- woman behitish were XXX movies, and there were foot fetish breaking, controversial film that the last few years. massive fe tion vids, and sex shop shelves would even separate gave many people their first insight into en MARC MEDOFF empire. But m most the two genres into different shopping areas of the secret, taboo world of fetishes. The her name to they’ll their stores, as if the pair would ‘fight’ if they were investigates these film has now been re-released for a new placed in close of proximity of each other. But people, and related strange audience, as a special edition with extra now it appears more and more as if those days of s assume she’e… bedfellows… footage. 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This is not decades now Joan – through her three “ about fetishes, but the original idea was Surewood, who has starred as the cocksmith porno,” says Larry Wells who, along production/distribution companies Joan of their lives, that means to go to, say, San Francisco, Los in hundreds of sex movies in the American with Joan, began the personal-turned- Wise Productions, Jaguar Videos Angeles, New York, England and Japan, hardcore production mecca of suburban Los a lot to them. professional quest in the early 70s that Limited and Brandenburg Erotic – has and do a kind of travelogue of houses of Angeles. “It used to surprise me, but not any has since grown into a mini empire literally defined the often bizarre but domination and fetishes. 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From its do was to make a film that was going to approach to adult movie making has woman-on-man discipline, naked beginnings via live shows, then film, Do you think it’s less of a taboo now? be shown on mainstream television, slowly but surely put the porn movie spanking, and above all, and what next video and now DVDs and online, which at that time really hadn’t been I think it is, certainly amongst people I makers on their toes – literally started it all for Joan Wise herself – the her creation has managed to spawn a and figuratively. And ForePlay_47 70_ForePlay ForePlay_47