Transcripts For “Hands Off Dog Training”
Intro To Special Dog Training Techniques
Hello and welcome to all you dog lovers out there. My name is Chet Womach and
I am Dave Womach and we are the owners of playfulpupus.com and today we are
going to be talking to you about how to use the phenomenal training tool, which
is a clicker to totally transform yours’ dogs’ behaviors.
We found through our web site birdtricks.com and throughout our training with
parrots and I guess that is kind of where our background came from and
throughout the course of about six months of producing these tapes we found out
that the most powerful tool in any animal training is a clicker, much stronger
than any other device out in the market and it has got one of the most simple,
effective, and most inexpensive ways to train any animal.
Exactly like Dave said there are so many things we have done. We have our
background came originally in parrot training where we developed all sorts of
training materials with mostly using clickers to totally shaped behaviors in birds
and we just want to let you know that these principles will work in birds, they
work on cats, they work on dolphins, they work on whatever.
They are the basic principles that animal trainers all over the world use and that’s
why we want to come out each day taking those clicker training principles, which
have a whole lot of benefits that we’ll get into but specifically applying them
towards your dog.
The greatest thing about clicker training and the most unique aspect that it has
over any other form is that its focusing on all the benefits and all the positive
sides of training, your strictly rewarding behaviors that are good. You don’t
reward any behaviors that are bad.
You don’t punish any wrong behaviors. It’s strictly positive reinforcement
throughout the training. And when my brother mentions that what he is talking
about is this course won’t teach any methods involving choke collars, they won’t
talk about jerking on a leash.
I have seen courses out there where if you are doing leash control only, it’s off the
leash control. So your dog will heal while your walking while he’s not on a leash.
They train their dogs. They stay by your side by actually throwing circle chains at
the dogs, but to get him to stay there because if he leaves he gets hit with these
chains and essentially gets whipped with chains and obviously that has a lot of
negative drawbacks, negative feedback that your dog is going to perceive that is
coming from you and then resenting you and also this is not fun for the dog and
not only that your neighbors will probably turn you in. very, very true.
The first thing that I want to attack here and show you is that our training kit is
going to be designed a little way that you might not be used to and it might sound
a little bit funny. This first section we are going to introduce clicker training to
you and it will flow pretty well, will give you some background, will show you
some of the benefits, will talk to you about how to get started, how to get setup,
all those such things and this first portion will flow quite smoothly. However, we
designed the last portion, because there will be a few good hours of audio here to
listen to very differently. It won’t be designed to listen to from beginning to end.
It would be very segmented and that was done for a purpose. We created it that
way so it could be well index. So if your dogs’ only problem is he pees on the
carpet and you really don’t care about barking and you don’t care about biting
and you don’t care about leash control or whatever you can specifically reference
whatever chapter the party training is in and you don’t have to wade through one
and half hour of audio to find what you are specifically looking for.
So just beware of that when you are going through this kit and it gets a little bit
choppy in the sections where we spend specific chapters on the CDs and
breakdown the specific behaviors and how to correct them.
Shaping And Molding Behaviors
By Using Clicker Training
Clicker training has a lot of other benefits that you may not be aware of and I
think it’s extremely important to point out to you.
We first sort to stumble across this with parrot training and you may or may not
own a parrot but the benefits are the same. We notice that even though we didn’t
have this in mind at the beginning when we were trick trained the birds and
learnt to teach them what behaviors were rewarding, what clickers we started
training them a whole host of behaviors, the bond that was created was
significantly increased between ourselves and the parrots and the same holds
true for dogs.
Not only that but on top of all everything that Chet’s saying our birds responded
much, much, much faster the sound of a clicker. Instead of saying “good” or
something else to kind of bridge the gap between the animal does a behavior you
want and when you actually give it a reward the clicker hits an exact moment that
the animal does desired behavior.
Now that may not sound important but if you put in perspective if you want the
dog to walk over and sit on to a map, which we will get into later you want the dog
to first at least just look at the map. You can’t get that with saying a verbal bridge.
The dog looks at the map, you click it you get a reward. It takes a step towards the
map, you give it a click and rewarded and in pinpointing every single move that
the dog makes until you eventually shape and mold the exact behavior that you
are looking for. What he is talking about works in everything. It even works
believe it or not with training goldfish. They are known to be trained on a clicker
and you can just very, very specifically reward exactly tiny, tiny small increments
towards the dog’s good behavior and that’s some of the benefits that come in to
play versus correcting the dog in a bad portion and he doesn’t really know what
he is doing, right. So he feels confined in a worse relationship.
To kind of explain how this works and get you a better feel of exactly why this
works. I want to give a little bit of background into where, I don’t know if it will
be a clicker training that got started but operate conditioning got started and I
wanted to tell you a story and this is probably going to be in some other materials
of ours that you are listening to or reading but talking about Dr. Skinner and I
believe its in the 1920s, Dr. Skinner was a scientist that did a lot of studies on rats
and I will tell this story real brief and short, but essentially what he did is he
would take a hungry rat and he put it in a cage and his goal was to see if he could
train this rat, which is a laboratory rat to run over to a food dispenser that had a
little lever on it, raise its paw, put his paw on the dispenser, push down on the
paw, which would activate the dispenser and drop the food palate into the rat’s
cage. He will run over there , munch on it and eat it.
So that every time the rat got hungry he knew that he could just walk over, stump
on that paddle and he would get a palate. Now that seems very complex and it’s
got a long way to go but Dr. Skinner proved that this was possible and what he
did like my brother mentioned just a little while ago was he broke it down into
tiny, tiny, tiny, tiny steps.
We are going to teach you throughout this course how to do that on all sorts of
behavioral problems with your dog to all sorts of tricks to all sorts of games you
can play and what he did at first is he imagined there is a rat in the cage and
there’s nothing else in this cage except this food dispenser and the rat just kind of
wondered around sniffing different things and he waited until the rat knows just
sort of accidentally, by happen chance looked at the feeder, just looked at it and
immediately he hit a little remote button that he had on his feeder and it dropped
and went “click”, what we mean by that when he hit that remote the pellet
dropped and it made a click at the bottom of this cage and that click pricked up
the rat’s ears.
He saw the food palate, he ran over and he ate it and that was certainly the
beginning of where all this clicker training staff came from and too small, small
steps that didn’t take too long for every time the rat looked at the feeder he got a
food pellet being clicked in the bottom of his cage that he realized gosh all I have
to do is look at this food dispenser when I am hungry and I get a pellet and pretty
soon the rat was constantly staring at the food dispenser and then what happened
is Dr. Skinner phased that out and he made the rat not only look at the dispenser
but he stopped rewarding just looking at the dispenser and waited for the rat got
bored and accidentally took a step towards this dispenser and then he hit the
button and dropped the palate and it clicked on the bottom of his cage.
So then the rat would start taking steps towards the dispenser to earn a reward
and earn a treat and it got even further and to take this along he got it so he will
take all the steps and would actually bump right up against the food dispenser
clicking and rewarding with pellets the entire time.
Then he waited, so he accidentally bumped into the lever and clicked and
rewarded all that time making sure that every step towards the direction of
eventually stepping on the pellet dispenser was rewarded and every time the rat
got distracted and looked the other way or walked the other way the rat was not
given any sort of reward whatsoever.
And once he got the rat to the point where he was up against the food dispenser
the rat was constantly just touching the dispenser, he phased that out. He
stopped rewarding that until the rat got bored and started sniffing around the
dispenser and accidentally stepped on the lever with his foot and as soon as he
did he rewarded him by dropping a pellet in there and pretty soon he just
repeating the steps over and over and over again to a hungry rat. The rat just got
the picture that all he had to do is step on this dispenser, this little lever and he
got a reward and basically clicker training was born in a sense and its then taken
on to a whole lot of levels and then taught.
Its definitely a growing field and as well as it should be because its extremely
effective and if you train a rat just want to let you know that you should have a lot
of faith that you can train your dog, you can train your cat, your goldfish, your
dolphin, whatever you have, its possible and that’s show some of the background
of how this staff got started.
Training Sessions, Clickers & Conditioning
To start doing the training with your dog it’s important that you first discover
what his favorite treat is. It doesn’t have to even have to be his favorite treat but
any kind of treat that he doesn’t get in a normal everyday basis, not his dog food,
he’s not really going to get excited to work for the dog.
We have found with our golden retriever that he absolutely will die for
marshmallows or cheese. Those may not be the healthiest things but fortunately
due to how all the clicker training is structured it doesn’t necessarily have to be
the most healthy treat for your dog that’s not the point, obviously your main diet
should be healthy for him, but just something that your dog will be willing to do
that little extra step and you have his undivided attention when you have this
treat in view. Pretty obvious how to find a good treat for your dog.
In fact you probably already know by now that one way to do it is to just have
several different items out on a table or on a tray, you could have cheese, you
could have marshmallows, you could have strips of chicken, strips of beef, pretty
much anything you could imagine that you like to eat that your dog may like to
eat and let him see which one he goes for first. If it does not make a difference
then you are well on your way. Depending on how you got this kit it may have
come with a little training bag for treats and stuff, which will just hook on to your
bell pocket or click on to your waste band of your pants.
This item is difficult to get a hold of sometimes. So it may not be included with
your kit, it’s not a necessity. You can always just keep the treats in your pocket,
but regardless you want your treats nearby the entire time so that you are not
fishing for the treat, you can get it through your dog immediately.
There are a couple other points that I would like to bring out with finding a
reward for your dog and it’s extremely important that all people struggle with it.
The reward that you gives your dog is going to vary on entirely different
Your dog when you start out training him inside your living room with no
distractions might go for a small piece of anything, it could be a cracker, it could
be whatever but may be when you get outside and there’s a few more distractions
and he has the option to go smell things and go to sniff trees in a park that he has
never been to and all such things you might need a whole lot more enticing treat.
You also might run into the scenario where your dog just doesn’t seem to even
care about the tree and when that happens you need to possibly focus on
restricting the dog’s diet a little bit so that you are training him right before meals
and that you are training him limiting his diet so that he is hungry when you are
training him and you are feeding him throughout the day during this period, so
he is a little more motivated and the other snare that could happen is he might
not be a fan of treats.
You might need to find that he just really loves to be pet or he really just wants to
hold his favorite toy or he wants to do something and you are going to know what
that is better than us, maybe it’s a little scratch behind the ear or on his butt
whatever you are going to feel that out but beware that treats might not be the
one specific answer for what your dog is going to be rewarded with.
And I want to touch back on what Chet said about you may have to restrict your
dog’s diet. This is not in any way starvation to your dog, its simply feeding your
dog treats when he is hungry and doing that before meal. In our case we feed our
dogs three small meals during the day, they get breakfast, they get lunch, they get
It is very important that throughout this training that you do not leave your dog’s
food out the entire day. That’s not going to work if the dog has a buffet available
all day because why would you want to treat. But again just to reiterate if this is
not in any way starving your dog just simply taking advantage of the routine
points during the day where he knows he is going to get fed and also this creates a
better bond with you and your dog because its creating a time with the dog and
you everyday that he can look forward to playing with you and just having
interaction with you.
There are a couple of things, which you might find that will help you with this,
especially if you don’t work at home or you have to be away a lot of the time you
can buy automatic dog feeders that are basically electronic and they will measure
out portions of the food and will dump a certain amount of food in your dog’s
dish at different time intervals that you decide on and not where you cannot have
to always constantly be trying to find the dog food bag, and filling up your dog’s
food bowl, dog pull but he can have a set amount of food that will be very
regulated and he can multiple times a day.
Another point we are feeding your dogs like we said three times a day is certainly
we might not have thought about. There was an experiment and I might not get
this quite right but I think it’s called the Pavlov, something Pavlov. Basically the
scientist Dr. Pavlov was doing a study where he would ring a bell and the feed the
dog, ring a bell and feed the dog throughout his scientific studies and what he
found is after a certain amount of time he would ring the bell and the dog would
The dog might not even been hungry but the mind of the dog and the mind of
even humans has a whole lot of power and if you think you are hungry, if the dog
thinks this time to eat he’ll be hungry. So if you are feeding your dog multiple
small meals a day he is going to get hungrier more often because he is excited to
eat more often and you are going to have more opportunities to present your
treats to him if you are having trouble with him taking treats. And that I guess
brings us to our next point how many times a day do you want to plan on feeding
your dog, but how many little training sessions would you like to have?
It’s a common misconception. A lot of people think that you have to train your
dog for 15 minutes or 30 minutes at a time and it really varies from dog to dog
but with quicker training because its so powerful you want to give a chance to
your dog, you want to give a chance to think about everything that has just
So what we recommend is about five to eight small, quick, short and sweet
training sessions throughout the day. You can do a bunch. I guess the first
objection would be how are you going to get that in to a day. If you work, you
can’t come home. They don’t have to split evenly throughout the day. Say you
wake up at six o’clock and you are eating your breakfast, you can do a quick
training session. A couple, maybe half hour later you get out of the shower to
another quick training session.
The training sessions only and listen carefully here for an adult should be three to
five minutes and no longer. It’s important not to expand and exceed their
attention span or the dog will quickly become bored with training and want
nothing to do with it. And how early can you train the dog? Quite honestly you
can train a puppy. The puppies’ attention span is going to be a lot shorter and
with this case you should only train him really for a 30-second to a two-minute
training session, no more or you will lose your dog’s attention.
You can expand on this when your dog obviously becomes a veteran of trick
training and masters a whole lot of things and can grow but growing his learning
ability but definitely you are going to want to follow these guidelines when you
are first starting out.
The first step you want to take in getting your dog used to understanding what a
clicker means and just the whole idea behind the training is sit down with him
one day, have your treats ready in your pocket or anywhere just nearby and just
simply click the clicker and toss him a treat. Let him think about it just for a
Click the clicker again and toss him another treat. You want to repeat this quite a
few times until he realizes every time you click that clicker he gets a treat, which
there is a very, very, very important thing to remember here and this is only one
thing you walk away from with this section of the CD, please, please keep in mind
how important it is that you do not ever click your clicker around your dog unless
you give him a treat.
The clicker is your verbal promise to him that you will under no circumstances
100% of the time give him a treat every time the clicker goes off, no exceptions or
you will lose your dog’s trust and it will really mess up the training with your dog.
Yeah, you quickly phase out your progress.
What he is talking about here is also known as a “bridge” and if you are familiar
with such training terms and the clicking sound is a bridge and what it does is it
bridges the gap between the time that the dog does this specific behavior
correctly and the time he gets rewarded and the reason that you have the clicker
is so let’s say your dog sits and then you go to give him a treat and he stands up.
Well, now he doesn’t know what portion that he did correctly. He doesn’t know if
it was the standing up that got him the treat, that he gets eat out your hand, its
just that clicker because its so specific, its so precise that you can train him do
just the minute tiny little things by raising his ears, wiggling his nose, or any sort
of specific thing because it is going to immediately bridge and then reward your
The Power Of Targeting
You are going to know when you’ve gotten to this point where you are clicking the
clicker and giving your dog a treat, clicking the clicker and giving your dog a treat
where he has got it and the point you are going to know about, and the whole
point I guess is so that every time you click it he absolutely knows he gets a treat
and its all on his body language. Just watch his body language when you start
clicking that clicker after you have done multiple, multiple reps, and you see his
ears prick up and he looks directly at you. You know that he is now expecting that
treat every time that you sound that thing. And then you are ready to move on.
Now some of you are going to run into the problem like we did where we first
started doing this and started conditioning an Australian shepherd to get used to
the clicker and all of a sudden he was very afraid of the clicker.
You have to remember the dog’s ears are a lot more sensitive than ours and it was
extremely loud, it was extremely overbearing and he was very scared of the
clicker and he would see the clicker and he would run away. So there are a couple
of things that you need to be aware of so that that doesn’t happen. One is maybe
always wearing the clicker on you.
There are several clickers that come with belt loops with retractable cords that
come out of own so that you can have it on your belt and it will extend much like
a child leash that grows and expands or a dog leash that grows and expands with
how far away the dog goes. You can attach this to your belt loop. You can always
attach this if you don’t have one like that or you can’t find one.
You know it’s attached to a magnet to it and stick it on your belt. If you just want
it to be accessible and get the dog used to seeing it so he is not afraid of it because
he will see it and when he sees it you want to go and hide if he is afraid of the
The other thing you can do is that when you are clicking is to possibly put it in
your pocket. When you click so the sound is muffled and its not as sharp and
piercing to your dog’s ears, put it behind your back, you could cover it in tape so
its not as overbearing, just a couple of things like that just so he gets used to it.
Also be very careful so that you aren’t clicking it in his ear and just being careful I
guess and it is really important we talk about this in just one section earlier but I
guess kind of jumping back ‘cuz we skipped this part. Make sure that you keep
your clicker out of the reach of your kid. If you have kids in the house or you have
a spouse who has obsessive-compulsive reasons to click the clicker make sure
that it’s away from them.
Again just to reinforce that every time you click the dog gets a treat. You don’t
want your child or anybody running around clicking it. Yeah because if you have
your kid run around and clicking the singer hundred times your dog will become
desensitized to it because he has been hearing the click and he is not getting the
reward or in some cases the dog may be freaked out, which escalates the problem
and if he already doesn’t like the clicker it will just make it worse. So once you are
at that point and you are at the point where okay the dog obviously gets it that
you click and he gets a reward.
There’s obviously some good starting points that you are going to want to start at
and this can depend on what sort of dog that you have, whether he is a very timid,
shy, calm dog or whether he is a very aggressive hyper dog. Some dogs, our
Australian shepherds that is a little bit on the hyper side that when we started
training they were just running in circles, staying around it and it was just like
what can I do to calm this dog down.
So what we did is we would take a piece of treat, we will show it to him in our
hand and we get down on his level and we would show him our hand and close
the hand and the dog would want to get in there, eat the treat, be all excited about
the treat, but what we did is waited till he calmed down even just a little bit and
then we clicked and then we gave him the treat as soon as may be he is biting on
the hand. We waited for the release of his bite on the hand, not obviously a hard
bite but just a gentle gnawing at it looking, trying to get in and get him the treat.
It’s in between our fingers waiting until he relaxes or he backs off, clicking a
reward. So he gets the point that oh if I just relax, if I just back off and I calm
down I get rewarded and do that to the point where your dog is not paying
attention but just settling down somewhat so you can get him to be somewhat
controllable. On the other hand if your dog, like a golden retriever, if he is a little
too mellow, that’s again we want to just make sure you are doing your training
session before his meals.
Yeah, his attention span will be a little bit keener and sharper. Another thing
which you can do, that’s a good thing to start off once your dog is at the point
where, you can start this off with a shy dog or once your more hyper dog is
calmed down a little bit is what’s called targeting.
Now we did this with parrots and it was extremely, extremely effective in getting
very scared birds to come out of their cage and it works very well with dogs too.
Not that the dog is scared but as far as learning how to obey commands and what
you can use is what’s called the targeting stick and it can just be any sort of stick,
it could be a yardstick if you wanted it to be, it could be any sort of stick
whatsoever, a pointer and we would put the stick if your dog is sitting there in
front of your dog and wait till may be touch the stick to the dog’s paw and then we
click and we would throw the treat at the dog.
We don’t let him to get out of our hand with further treat away from the dog. So
he goes out and gets the treat and so he realizes every time that the stick touches
his paw that he gets a reward and then we would just like we would teach you
doing everything back the sticks slowly away, may be just an inch away so that we
are not the ones touching his paw and wait until if he already understood he is a
sharp dog, move to his spot to touch the stick and then got rewarded and if he
didn’t catch up on that what we would do is we would position the stick in some
sort of position that the dog most likely to move to next after he got bored of
waiting for us to do something. So that if he decided to walk away in the path of
him walking away he accidentally was bumped into the stick and then we would
immediately click him reward until the point that he understood, gosh every time
my paw touches this stick I get a reward and when he gets to that stage back it off
two inches, three inches, six inches, a foot, you know two feet, all over the house
and rewarding multiple, multiple times during each step so he understands
where to go to follow you to start understanding he needs to go certain places to
earn a reward and this will come into play in later stages of the training when you
need to teach and lure him crawling and coming to you and those such things, so
it’s important and its also a fairly easy step to start off with.
A couple of points that might help you if you feel like you are trying to juggle too
many things is like Dave said earlier on; get yourself a treat bag so that you can
easily have the treats on your belt in an easy accessible pouch and take the clicker
and attach it to this stick somehow that you are using.
If it’s a yardstick you can glue it, you can tape it on to the stick, you can wrap it
around with rubber bands, whatever you wanted to do, but just so that the stick
and the clicker are one so you can just grab them at the same time and not have
to have a separate hand holding the clicker and you play with how you hold the
clicker depending on whether you want to do that or not, but it just makes it
easier to see have a free hand available to you, one holding a treat and one
holding the stick and you can be training and doing everything multitasking.
Getting Your Dog To Sit
Teaching your dog the sit commands one of the first out of the three major tricks
that you want to teach it. Sit would be the first one you want to teach it to stay
and you want to teach it to lay down on command. These are the three core tricks
to train your dog. All of these things can be done without ever touching your dog.
You start out with your clicker in your left hand and your treat on the right hand.
When are going to take your treat out of your treat pocket or out of your pants
pocket or wherever it is. You will immediately notice that your dog is looking at
you because obviously you have something that it wants.
To teach the dog to sit on commands again with a clicker on your left hand and
the food in your right hand start walking towards your dog. As soon as he sits
down click the clicker and toss the food out to the side. Now the reason you threw
it down to the ground over to the side is so the dog gets up out of the sit position,
that’s very important and then he gets the treat.
You want to continue doing this each time making sure that you hold the food,
the treat, just a little above the dog’s nose and by raising the treat back and over
the dog’s head it is going to force him or her to sit down. Again as soon as it sits
down click the clicker and toss the treat out to the side.
If your dog doesn’t naturally sit down when you are trying this try another
method. You can just simply sit there, take out the treat and just wait and wait
and as soon as your dog sits down click the clicker and again toss the treat out to
the side making sure it gets out of the sit position to get it. And you just repeat
this and repeat this and pretty soon your dog will have this trick on you. There
are a couple of things that are important to know here.
One of them is that you are going to want to incorporate a verbal cue when doing
this, you are going to want to put the treat above your dog’s head and he finally
sits, you say the word sit along with clicking the clicker the instant that he does sit
so that you can attach the cue to the behavior. You could also incorporate
different hand cues if you want a certain hand cue to be the symbol to actually sit
we can incorporate that in also.
Keep in mind that the dog doesn’t have to sit because you told him to sit. As long
as he gets rewarded every time he sits it doesn’t matter how you get him to do it.
The point is that he understands that every time he sits he gets a click, so you
could be watching TV and it doesn’t have to take any extra time out of your life,
you can just be walking around your house and you notice him sitting and if you
have the clicker on you click and toss him a treat while you are in your own home
and the whole process will go a lot faster. You can do this when you are going
through a feeding times, all those sorts of things.
Now there is a couple of other things that will come up in teaching your dog to sit
that you will want to focus on and that is you want your dog to sit for longer than
one or two seconds. You might want him to sit and hold that sit for a couple of
seconds, 10 seconds, a minute, five minutes, may be want him to sit in the corner
and not bug someone, one of your guests who happens to be allergic to dogs,
something like that. What you would do to lengthen out that process and get him
to hold this sit longer and longer is once he knows that we will give the sit
command he automatically sits and he gets a reward.
Now give him the same command again and wait an extra second before you click
and give him the treat and then an extra two seconds and three and four and five
and so on and so forth until you are holding it out for as long of a period of time
as you want so that your dog learns okay I have to hold this sit until she says that
I am done.
Now what you are going to want to do is you are going to need a release
command with this type of behavior so that the dog knows its okay and maybe
you can just say “okay” and the word “okay” is combined with the clicker and a
treat thrown to the dog so that the dog knows okay that’s done. I don’t have to
worry about that any more so that you can eventually phase out the clicker in
later parts of the training. So you don’t always have to have a clicker on you and
the dog will be released with the okay command instead of being released with
the clicker command.
The other thing you are going to want to be able to do is have your dog vary the
times that he is able to sit and you don’t want to do this by I forgot the name of
the term but variable length training is what I am trying to get out. You are going
to want to have him hold this sit for 10 seconds, then have him hold it for 15, then
have him hold it for five, then have him hold it for 30, then have him hold it for
20, and just vary the amount of time that you make him hold the sit so he
becomes really, really used to waiting for your release command, your okay and
the clicker sound before he breaks his sit instead of just holding the sit for
however long he wants to until he feels comfortable. He needs to know that that’s
not how it is done, that it needs to be sitting until you give him the okay
And that’s done multiple times throughout the training course, its not something
where during one training session you do 30-second reps or another training
session that’s 15-second reps. You want to after the dog understands the sit
command and sits and he knows that then you want to start throwing him the
changes or variables for him.
Getting Your Dog To Stay
The stay command is a very important command to be able to teach your dog. It
can keep it safe when you are near a busy road, at a park, you can tell to stay
while you have to go grab on your kids. You keep your kids from running in the
street or whatever it is there is a number of awesome, awesome reasons for
teaching this trick or you just simply want a well-behaved dog, this is a great
command to teach. You start by having your dog sit, you give the sit command
and you tell it to stay.
You click the clicker and say okay and toss him the treat. After you do this, take a
step back, tell him to sit again, say stay, pause for a second, click, say okay, and
toss him the treat. The reason for saying okay is a release command like we talked
about in a sit session of this audio series. It’s very important that your dog
understands when to stay and when it’s okay to move about again. So you do this
You tell your dog to sit, tell him to stay and each time you move back a little bit
further, a little bit further, a little bit further, every time until you are five-six feet
away and then you want to work on the duration that your dog actually stays
there. Up to this point, it’s very important that you only have your dog stay for
just a second or two. So again you sit, stay, click and reward. So just about that
time in there you don’t want to work on how long he is until he really
understands the idea behind it.
So the second phase to this is getting your dog obviously to sit for certain amount
of time, or stay for a certain amount of time and before we get to that I want to
kind of interrupt myself and tell you that if your dog starts to whine while you
give the stay command and he starts to whine don’t reward him. If you give the
stay command and you walk back a foot then the dog starts to walk off don’t
reward him. Then just go back again and tell him to sit, tell him to stay, then you
yourself take a step backwards, click, give the release command and toss him his
It’s very, very, very critical never to reward a behavior that you potentially don’t
want. If he is winding, if he is barking, may be you don’t want your dog moving at
all during the stay command, you want him to just freeze in one position. If that
is the case then make sure that you don’t reward if he is moving his head. Then
however you want you can really shape and mould his behavior by rewarding
only a behavior that you want and not rewarding or just simply ignoring the dog
if he does a behavior that you don’t want.
So once you have got, you have got to the step where you are about five-six feet
back, seven feet back, and little bit further, a little bit further, and your dog
understands that he is supposed to stay there you want to start stretching out the
amount of time that he sits and he stays in one spot. To do this, it’s just like the
You tell him to sit, you tell him to stay, take a few steps back, and instead of just
clicking and rewarding after one second, you want to give it two seconds, three
seconds, four seconds, and then click and reward and just go on to change the
amount of time in between your command and the reward so that he doesn’t get
used to always staying for exactly five seconds and then when he thinks five
seconds is up he decides to run off.
If that is the case again you don’t reward that. Only reward the exact behaviors
you want and then eventually you have it up about 30 seconds, 35 seconds, 40
seconds, two minutes, and really work on this as long and shape it until the dog
stays as long as you want him to.
A couple of other things that are important. Obviously there is always going to be
funky things that are thrown into the picture. We learnt this first when we started
training parrots where the animal we are teaching the behavior like if you start
teaching your dog how to sit and then you want to teach him how to stay, but in
the command you really have to break everything you are teaching down into
various simple basic steps and take him inch by inch, half inch by half inch if you
have to and I just want to really drive home the point what my brother is talking
about with first teaching that dog to just sit for the same amount of time just with
you standing further away is basically how that works and then you work on how
long it takes. Don’t try to make it long and far away at the same time or mix up
those steps because it’s just not going to work as well.
When your dog already knows to sit, it’s just a whole, whole lot easier for him to
sit while you are further away and sit while you are further away and it’s a nice
smoother transition from there to make him sit for longer and longer periods of
time than jumping out and just getting yourself all out of order. There is also a
couple of things that are going to come into play like distractions of being in
certain environments you are going to want to be in and I will jump into those
here. You go to want throw distractions at your dog and his sit commands, for
example have him sit near an open door and then go outside, may be that’s the
door he really likes to go out of, have him sit before dinnertime.
So its like super, super rewarding and do a training session with a bull of food
sitting there, have him go the park and sit, have him go the park and sit next to
the door, then in an open van or an open car if your dog likes to go for a car ride,
have him sit and then open the door and make sure that he doesn’t go in there
and fall for that bait of opening the door.
Now there is a trick here. You don’t want to say come on boy, get in the car and
then punish him for not holding his stay, you can’t be stupid about the whole
thing, you don’t trick your dog but present a distraction where the dog has to
make his own choice completely on his own without any egging on from your
commands or anything whether he is going to hold the stay or not. You are going
to want to teach the stay in regions also besides holding just a sit-stay like my
brother had talked about.
You are going to want to hold it in front of the door where not necessarily
rewarding the dog for sitting in front of the door but rewarding this process for
not crossing that barrier from inside to outside so if you have to open up the door
to go get some groceries or carry something in you don’t have the dog jet out and
have him cut your legs out from under you when you are brining something
heavy in the door so he don’t come outside or you don’t lose those sorts of things
that will run out into the street.
So just have that in the back of your mind when you are training these behaviors
and stand up with your dog and after you master the sit and stay commands go
next to a door, open the door and tell him to stay. It doesn’t have to be an outside
door, it could be just a door that you don’t want your dog to go into, for example
we have a parrot room in our house but we don’t want our dogs going into
because dogs could eat birds and that’s not a good thing.
So what I could do is I could open up that door to that room and I could walk in
and I could tell him to stay and if he stays outside that room I will click and
reward him and if he comes in he does not get a reward and if he is either on a
training diet or a meal time and he is a little bit hungry and that’s what he is after
is that reward where lots of pets and lots of attention and he never gets it every
time he crosses that barrier he will learn that he is not supposed to do that and
every time you tell him to stay he will not go into that room and you can train
those dogs per region that you want them to stay in.
One of the biggest fallbacks we found at our golden retriever with the distraction
technique they were talking about is other’s dogs or animals at a park or just
anywhere if you are walking your dog, a lot of dogs get excited to see another dog.
We cover this more later on in this series but just as a distraction during training
above the hardest thing you are going to get next to giving your dog’s food like his
dinner and having him stay is we found having another dog in the same room
that is free to run around and do whatever it wants, yet the dog, your training has
to stay put.
So if you are really putting a challenge and you have two dogs and your neighbor
has a dog, after you have mastered the sit and stay commands try throwing him a
distraction pattern when another dog run around and then if he’ll still do it when
that dog is there you know that your dog has mastered this trick.
Mastering The Down Command
Getting your dog to master the down command or to lie down on command is
very much a needed behaviors and your good fortune is very simple to learn. It’s
basically as simple as seeing your dog lying down and if your dog, and the key to
this is that your dog already knows what the clicker means in a big way.
So I wouldn’t teach this trick first, I would teach something basic like a sit first
which is going to be a little bit easier, then the lie down, but master the sit so that
the dog really really knows that when every time you click that clicker, he did
something right, he doesn’t know what it is, but he did something right and he
has a treat coming.
So that being said go about your regular business in the morning and your whole
routine, you don’t have to take extra time out of your day or anything, sit down
and eat your breakfast at the breakfast table and just be aware of what’s your dog
is doing, if you see him lie down click and toss him a treat, believe me he will
understand what that clicker means.
He will know that he did something and he will go and probably come over to you
and start offering other commands that you may have taught him, do not reward
any more and then go back and wait for him to get bored and lie down again and
then click and give him a reward and do that over and over and over again until
basically he has got the command. Now there is a couple of things that could
obviously come into play, just like everything on this that we are teaching here.
One is may be you have a big room or may be your dog doesn’t like to hang out
with you in your breakfast time.
If that’s the case get yourself in a smaller room, may be a bathroom, may be a
very small bedroom, may be anywhere where your dog’s pretty confined, you can
see him no matter where he goes you may be close the door so he can’t run away
and be distracted. He has to hang out with you so that eventually the dog is not
going to stand up forever and he has to lie down and just to make sure that every
time he does you click, he perks up, gets real excited and you toss him a treat and
just so that you catch it every time until he obviously is laying down on command
and eyes are gazing at you, I am sorry, I shouldn’t say on command.
He is just lying down. As soon as he eats his treat he lays back down again. Eyes
staring at you and he is just very eager and hoping he is doing the right thing
knowing that every time he is lying down he gets a reward. When you have it to
that point is the time that you are going to want to attach a clue to the behavior.
I mentioned that your dog has mastered it and you will know because your dog is
always lying down during your training sessions and when he is doing that start
writing, I don’t know how to explain it, its writing the same sort of rhythm where
you toss a treat out, he gets it and he immediately lies down again. Catch him in
that rhythm where he is so used to just eating treat, going back, lying down,
eating treat, going back, and lying down, catch him instead of let him lie down
without saying a command or giving him a command with a hand signal, say
“down” right before he sits down or lies down and then as soon as he does you
click and you toss him a reward and then say “down” and attach that even though
he is already doing it without your saying it.
Make it so that that word is always associated with the behavior when he goes
down and once he has got that down, it hasn’t confused him, you back it off even
further and you stop staying down every time. This will happen with every animal
we know, parrots, dogs, but the animal would just offer the behavior over and
over and over and over and over again even if its not the behaviors that we want
him to do, may be he will resort to the behavior that he likes to do the most and
may be “down” is the one he likes to do the most.
Whatever the case just make sure that you are mixing it up so that he knows that
he just can’t lie down when you don’t say anything and expect a reward. He needs
to hear the word down before expecting a reward. And one thing we haven’t
talked about yet that needs to be covered is it’s important to only give the
A lot of times you will hear different people and listen for it now that I am telling
you about it, I am sure you will notice it lot more, you will look at the dog and say
sit, come on sit, sit, sit, good and finally after like the fifth time of saying sit the
dog finally does it. Although that person is doing is basically undoing all the
training that’s ever been done.
Make sure that you do not reward your dog unless he does it after you saying it
once. If you have to repeat the command don’t do it, ignore the dog, walk away
and then come back and try it again just so that you don’t have to tell him to stay,
stay, stay, you know I mean I know after hearing this you know make more sense
to you, but just make sure that you give the command once and make sure he
does it and only reward it after you have only said it once.
Keep in mind that your dog, however you train your dog is exactly how it is going
to be in the end, so just make sure that everything that he is doing from step A to
step Z is exactly how you want it. So this brings us to the end of our first session.
Conclusion Of Part One – What’s To Come
We certainly hope you have enjoyed it and you are going to find a whole bunch of
other and more advanced techniques and training on our second session CD that
came of your kit, its going to go over things like biting, aggression towards
children, aggression towards strangers, spouses being territorial, barking at
neighbors, barking at postmen, barking at whatever begging, barking, teaching
your dog to come on command through retrieve on command, teaching you just
about any of the advanced tricks that you can apply with your dog, coming up on
the next series.
Training To Come On Command
To teach your dog to come on commands can be pretty fun, can be pretty simple
and not hard to do at all. If you have a puppy, its going to make it just a little bit
easier but if you have an older dog it will also work. What you are going to want
to do is basically train your dog to understand that every time you call his name
great things happen and not just with food this time.
We have been teaching a lot of the other tricks for a lot of food but you are going
to want a lot of pets, happy praise along with the food for this one and in this
command you are going to want to pick his most favorite treat in the world.
You might have been able to get away with a mediocre treat or one that your dog
wasn’t the most fond of but he liked it a little bit better than dry nasty dog food
but this trick requires the best treats possible and the reason is you don’t want to
call your dog by name and basically sucker him into coming to you and then you
grab him by the collar and you shove him into his dog kennel. That’s not fun and
so we are going to teach you how to call him by name just when you want him to
come near you.
This is not going to be used to call him, to come to you when you want to put him
away or put him in a crate or put him in the kennel, those will be separate
commands and we will teach those separately with words like go to your kennel,
go into your crate, those sorts of things but its very important not to try to
confuse those and very important to remember when you call your dog’s name
make it happy and don’t put him in the kennel, those sorts of things or smack
him or do something that is bad in nature.
So basically what you are going to need is you are going to need his best treat, you
are going to need yourself and eventually you are going to need a few other
people to help grow this behavior.
Its going to start off with just in a controlled little distraction environment,
maybe your living room, your puppy is sitting there and you go up a few feet away
and you clap happily and say I don’t know whatever your dog’s name is, Spark
come, and you act all excited, so the puppy is happy seeing you.
So he runs over there just to play and you click and you give him a treat and you
just do this a whole lot just like everything a whole lot where you go back to
playing and then you clap and say Spark come and he comes again and again and
again and you just basically repeat that over and over and over again in different
situations, in different spots in the house, in different spots outside your yard and
then you increase distractions where you are going to let your puppy get
distracted by, I don’t know a certain smell that he is smelling in the yard and then
right at that instant you tell him to come but not from far away, don’t get off and
stay real close by this time and have those treats and as he seems to be distracted
you tell him to come and he comes over to you and you click a reward and when
you have this so it is just down pat, you can take it into other things, right Dave.
Yeah, our Australian shepherd enjoyed a game.
We actually trained him instead of saying come or calling him by name, he comes
actually to really extremely high pitch whistles. So what we started doing is
playing a little game with him where we would walk off when he was busy playing
or whatever and we go and hide in another room, either in the bathroom, the
bedroom, we have a walk in closet where we might hide in there and do this high
pitch whistle and it was just a hoot watching and listening to him.
He would run around the house trying to find you is just a game that you can play
after he has learned the come command to keep it from being a stagnant routine
of him and it just keeps it exciting and obviously when he finds you, make a lot of
praise and pet him and give him a treat and like just I said earlier always make it
a positive experience, never ever ever under any circumstance call your dog if you
are going to put him away, if you are going to punish him, just again to reiterate
make sure that is always a positive experience for your dog and that he is always
looking for it to come in when you call him. Very, very true.
The How & Why Of Properly
Crate Training Your Dog
It’s important that your dog is properly crate trained, so in an emergency if you
have to take it to the vet or just for regular checkups it knows the crate is a safe
place to be, also if you have guests that are allergic to dogs, afraid of dogs, or if
you have little kids over and you have a big dog, its just a smart thing to be able to
have your dog go to his crate every time he is told.
There are two ways of doing this. If your dog is a puppy, it’s probably the best
time to start doing it. With our Australian shepherd every night we put him in his
crate, to go to bed, we feed him in his crate, he has got to sleep in his crate, he ate
in his crate and every morning we take him out, we play with him and he just
knew that it was a safe place to be and then after a while of doing that we started
saying go to your crate, go to your kennel and he would just go at his own free will
if we left it open, we catch him sleeping in there just because he felt comfortable
in there and it was always used to being in and around his crate ever since he was
If your dog is an adult dog obviously it’s a little bit too late to do that method,
especially if your dog is simply afraid of the crate. There are a number of steps
you can take to get your dog used to the crate and be willing to go into it. To start
it out, you want to click and reward anything that shows any bit of progress
towards the crate. If your dog is just definitely afraid of the crate, say we have our
crate in the laundry room, so I use that just for the sake of keeping it easy here.
Let’s say that your dog is completely afraid of the crate, go on to the laundry room
and shut the door behind you and if it is a decent size laundry room and so the
dog is in there with the crate, unless he is really panicky then you want to take a
few steps back. But just reward him for even looking at the crate. If he takes one
glance at it, give him a click and reward. Every time he gets a little bit closer or he
takes a step forward towards the crate give him a click and reward. If he starts to
kind of sniff the crate give him a click and reward him.
Every time that he moves just even one step closer to the crate click and reward
for every little step. When he makes a big breakthrough, I am sure you are going
to notice a couple of spots where he just won’t get past, he won’t get within two
feet of the cage. He is okay with getting up to that point but he doesn’t quite want
to touch it, whatever a little hurdle is, as soon as he gets past it, make sure you
give him just a huge, huge, huge reward so he knows that he really did something
Again click and reward but also some praise and some patting never hurts. Also
another tip like we did with Taylor, as a puppy is we would like I said we put his
dinner in there. Now this obviously only is a fact of which your dog isn’t terrified
of the crate which obviously if he is terrified he takes the steps that I just talked
about. If he isn’t terrified he just get in the routine and in a habit so that your dog
knows every night he gets to go eat dinner in his crate and then when he has
finished eating dinner you will let him out and you run outside, you play with
He does his business out back or whatever and just make it a comfortable place
for your dog so that he knows that he can feel secured in that. Like Dave said you
are going to want to click the dog and reward every small step towards the
process of him getting to the final goal, which is inside the crate and being inside
the crate for a long period of time.
So a couple of points that you are going to want to know there besides clicking
every time he makes a step forward that you are going to want to stop, once you
have your dog to the point where he knows that he has to put one or both paws
may be inside the crate before you are to click and reward. Stop rewarding
anything else besides that and only move on forward.
Don’t ever reward just looking at the crate any more, just sniffing the crate any
more, only reward actually the step you are on or moving towards and you can
just do a lot of things with getting your dog comfortable with this by stuffing
You can find them at local pet stores, and then stuff peanut butter or favorite
treats in these Kong Toys so that he is a little bit distracted and he has got
something that he likes to play with and going to be busy trying to dig the peanut
butter out of so that he can have a little bit extra help in helping him overcome
that fear like Dave said eating inside the crate is another good option and that’s
basically how you can do that with an older dog.
Now a couple of points here. Your dog is afraid of being locked up there, in there
and you are going to leave him and he doesn’t know where to go, only knows that
you leave him. So what you are going to want to do is teach the dog that you come
back to him and that you don’t just leave him in there and so just start off by
closing the door, give him a click and reward just for getting the door even closed.
Then leave for 10 seconds, then leave for 30 seconds and come back.
Click and reward each time until the dog is okay with being in there for as long as
you want. Don’t ever come back to the crate and open it if he whines or barks or
basically don’t even let him see you. If he barks because then he will learn you
accidentally be training him that barking brings you back and so if he is barking
persistently you are just going to have to wait it out, hopefully you want to jump
too far right of the back, you are going to have to wait it out and just stand out of
sight until he has finished barking for I don’t know 15 seconds then walk into the
room, click reward and let him out play and let him know that it was great but let
him know that he only got out because he was quiet.
If he ever gets out by whimpering, barking, winding, or whatever, its going to be
really, really, really annoying, 1 a.m. at night when you are trying to go to bed
after a long day of work and this dog won’t stop yipping because he wants you
and he knows that gets your attention.
You can’t let him know that that gets your attention. Now some points for some
puppies. Puppies, especially smaller ones are going to have a little bit of bladder
control issues and you’re not going to want to leave a puppy in a crate for eight
hours and expect him to hold it because he is not going to do that. He is going to
have a little bit of problem especially right of the back.
But to get a puppy comfortable with it is the ideal situation because he has no
stigmas about the crate, feed him in there, play with the toys and there like all
those sorts of things you can also click him reward every step towards there but
aside from that wait till maybe he is just about to fall asleep and go and put him
inside the crate and pat him and may be loll him to sleep with the door open and
then shut the door and leave him until he wakes up, come back, click him reward
every time he gets up. If he is awake and he is not going to sleep let him be in
there, put a toy in there and distract him or just let him be in there by himself.
You can play with it on your own to see how it goes, shut the door for 10 seconds,
click him reward if he doesn’t do any whining or anything like that and let him
out and play with him and let him know he is a good boy, then put him back in
the crate using the crate command or go to your crate or whatever it is going to be
and basically just get him very comfortable with the fact that he is going to be
okay in there. You are always going to come back and clicking and rewarding to
get yourself through every hurdle to get him comfortable with every step of the
process whether its stopping from whining, whether its from just anything, just
anything at all. Those are the basic steps that are going to help you out.
How To Stop Your Dog’s Annoying Barking
How to stop your dog from barking? It’s so crucial to know because it is so
maddening when a dog is relentlessly barking to come in, it is relentlessly barking
to eat, it is begging, it is barking at gnats flying in the sky, cats that stroll by,
neighbors that walk by, just all sorts of different things and one of the first things
you need to know is why your dog is barking and besides, I guess I will just get
One of the things that can cause your dog from barking is boredom. So how you
fix that I can’t really give you a clicker training, sort of a way to fix boredom in
your dog, you need to adjust the dog’s environment so he has stuffs to do and
may be you need to take him on more runs, may be you need to take him on
walks, may be you have to hire somebody to walk him more regularly.
Do anything so that you can have more interaction with your dog so he is not
quite as bored and can get a little bit more physical activity and may be you can
present him lots of toys, you cannot leave him in an area that will annoy
neighbors too badly, those sorts of things to try to control the boredom issue.
Other reasons he may bark are begging and being let in and I guess those are
basically treated the same way.
This is very similar, we mentioned parrots a lot but we do have extensive training
in parrot background as well as dogs but a lot of parrots scream for their owners
to call. Well it’s the same thing with dogs barking for something that they want
and what you have to stand firm on is that your dog can never understand that
barking gets your attention, barking gets you to come and act excited which you
think is yelling but your dog just thinks its excitement.
It can’t bring any of that to the dog. Let me put it this way. If you were a dog and
you barked a few times and your owner always came over and said “what’s wrong,
what’s wrong”, I would certainly bark a lot if I wanted to get petted because it
would bring my owner over but if I barked a hundred times and nothing
happened and I barked a hundred more and then a thousand more and ten
thousand more times and my owner never came and my goal was to get my
owner to come.
An animal never continues to do an action that doesn’t bring a positive response
for the animal and it will phase out in its own behavior and that’s what you need
to stand firm on and you need to do. If you are sitting in your chair and your dog
is barking at your door to let him in. You need to not even look at him. He can’t
make eye contact, don’t make a movement towards the door, nothing, you need
to wait it out until your dog has stopped barking, go outside as soon as he
stopped, click, give him a treat and let him come in and that’s how you can know.
If you are preparing food and your dog is barking you need to stop, let your dog
bark until he is blue on the face, until he stops barking and as soon as he stops
barking click and reward and it’s a repetitive sort of thing. The problem is that
too many owners have trained their dogs to bark because it brings food or they
train their dogs to be let back in after they have eaten.
There are all those sorts of things and its just not really understanding what your
dog is doing and how your dog is trying to communicate with you. One thing I
want to chime in on here, its important that might have been a little confusing
though, its important that you don’t click and reward the dog as soon as he stops
barking because then he will just learn that the barking gets the result he wants.
You want to make sure that you don’t click him and reward until he has had
enough time to forget that he was barking. In most cases its 15 seconds later or 30
seconds later but seriously count it out and time it or whatever you need to do but
when the dog stops barking count 10, 20, 30 seconds whatever it is that you feel
comfortable with and after he has been silent for a long enough time then click
and reward, but just don’t get into any kind of habit of clicking right after he
stops barking or you will reinforce the barking behavior.
Also make sure to not reinforce barking in other situations like if your dog always
barks as somebody walks by; try to limit the visibility to those people. You know
dogs are going to want to alert people of changes and its not necessarily trying to
accomplish anything. They are just trying to do something good, its kind of a
natural instinct. So try to make it so they can’t see strangers they come up to your
front door or into your yard or go by on the street and those sorts of things and
don’t reward him again by when he barks, coming over, patting him and asking
him what’s wrong.
When they are outside make sure that he stops barking before you give him a
reward and before you let the person come inside who is a stranger and those
sorts of things. Looking at it from a dog’s perspective just to give you an idea of
how quickly the situation can go from being tolerable to totally intolerable. Say
you are watching TV and the dog is in the other room or he is outside. You will
use that, it’s a little bit more clear.
So the dog is outside and he barks for five seconds and you say okay well that’s
annoying the neighbors. I better get up, get out of my lazy boy, get up and let the
dog in. So the dog just learned okay I bark for five seconds I get let in. Well he
does it again, the next day you are sitting there and watching TV and the dog
starts barking again and he is barking and he is barking and you are just ignoring
it and he barks, he barks, he barks. Finally it just aggravates you enough that you
go outside and you start yelling at him, no bad dog.
Like I was saying earlier the dog thinks that is excitement and he doesn’t know
what you are saying, he doesn’t know that the words you are saying are
punishing. He just sees you yelling and screaming and playing with him and what
he just learned is all it takes is 30 seconds of barking now to get your attention
and then you come out, you play with him and you let him in and that’s exactly
what he wants.
This gets worse and worse and worse and pretty soon you just can’t tolerate it any
more and he has been barking for 10 minutes, 15 minutes, and pretty soon you
have totally trained your dog to just bark uncontrollably without even realizing it.
So taking down into perspective I guess that just kind of let you know what its
like from the dog’s point of view and how can you really confuse the dog because
pretty soon after yelling and screaming at it doesn’t work, you are going to spank
it or do a number of other things that will really damage your relationship with
the dog and one thing that people actually will recommend that works great with
clicker training, even especially in parrots too is putting the behaviors that you
don’t want on queue. So with parrots it would be screaming, with dogs it is
If your dog barks just as an alternative if this last method didn’t work for you if
your dog barks click, give it a reward. Wait again it barks, click, give it a reward,
click give it a reward just like we have been teaching earlier in the CD or audio file
and then you want to put a queue on it. So you say speak and he barks and you
click a reward.
You just want to time it right. So you say, you know you say speak, he barks, you
click, you reward, and each time reinforcing that he only does it when you tell
him to do it and then once you get him into this pattern of speak, he barks, you
reward, speak, bark, reward and you want to just not same thing and when he
barks ignore him and then do it again where you say speak and he barks and
reward him until you have completely phased out his bark as a begging action
and instead you only get that when you want it to, when you want him to do it on
command. Because obviously the dog isn’t going to just bark if he knows you are
going to leave the room and ignore him.
So there is a couple of different ways that can help you out here. Another couple
of points that I want to point in I want to jump back just a little bit and talk about
the dog’s point of view if you yell at your dog or you hit your dog or whatever
when he is barking. What your dog thinks of is , “okay I am going to bark because
he always come” and play, so I am barking and barking and then I see you, yes
you are coming and you get to play with me and then I run up to you and you hit
me and the point I am coming from is gosh.
Now every time, you know, he does not understand the barking is bad because we
haven’t taught him because we have trained him that it is good because we are
always rewarding him and now all of a sudden we have thrown him this curve
and now instead of, you know, getting excited, which is really your yelling, but he
doesn’t know it, you hit him. So you are training him to resent you and you are
training your dog that he gets beat now when you come outside and that’s where
your dog has come in from and it is not a good angle to come at the barking issue
or any issue that is bad whether it’s your dog peeing on the carpet, do not hit your
dog. Not because he don’t deserve it or whatever, just because it doesn’t work.
If it works, may be it would be a good idea, but it doesn’t work. So, don’t do it.
Now, the second point that I have is to like my brother said we are training your
dog to speak on command with the bark. You can train your dog to do other
things to alert you besides just bark.
You could set up a little bell on your front door so that you train your dog when
somebody new comes into the house that he rings the bell and he gets just a
fantastic reward, just as a good incentive to not bark when somebody comes up
and so pick somebody like I have a friend who my dog didn’t particularly care for
and caused quite a fuss when, that the dog would put up quite a fuss when he
would come over and what we did is we trained him with that by taking that
friend and the friend agreed to participate in some training process and having
the friend walk up to the house, the dog would accidentally bump into the bell
and we would then reward the dog and we would let the friend in and it is just
through the same sort of ways that we have taught everything here, it is slowly
progressing with a clicker training.
You could train your dog to either go, run and find you and paw your foot if
somebody is there or to ring a bell or to spin around in circles or to jump up in
the air, I really don’t care what he does and it doesn’t matter, but it is a different
way for your dog to communicate that somebody is there besides barking and it is
basically just more tolerable. But those are some things that should certainly help
you with that annoying barking problem and really help you overcome that.
How To Stop Your Dog’s Destructive Chewing
When trying to teach your dog to stop chewing, this really isn’t going to be that
complex of a behavior to try to cure. It’s usually just a phase that a dog goes
through just like kids go through phases and those sorts of things. So, how you
are going to set up your dog for success is try to do things that you do if just like
you had a toddler around.
Put up gates so he can’t get to areas where furniture is, create areas or rooms that
are just his room, give him lots of toys that he really likes, which means lots of
toys, every sort of, if you walk into our house our dogs don’t chew things any
more, but our toys, it’s like there is this toy pile, there are 15 toys over this toy pile
and the dog should play with all of them and they will play with each other, they
will pull on them, they will chew on them. There are toys for just pulling, there
are toys for chewing, there are toys that are meant to be fetched.
There are also different toys so that the dog especially if it’s a puppy has the
opportunity when it is teething to dig into something that really excites him
because it helps their gums feel better when those new teeth are coming in to
chew on that sort of stuff.
Also, if you have a puppy and the puppy is either nipping you or chewing on your
hands or biting or whatever it may be that you don’t like simply stop doing
whatever you are doing, get up and leave the room. Give him some time to kind of
think about what he did and then come back and play with him and as soon as he
starts nipping or biting you again, get up and leave the room because the last
thing you want to do is give any kind of reinforcement.
Some people will suggest to actually, in this case, yell at the dog and say no but I
would strongly recommend not doing that.
I do believe that that would be reinforcing the dog for a wrong behavior because
it’s an exciting noise to the puppy especially. Just simply ignore it, and after he
stops, then click and reward or just basically the same thing with the barking.
That is a behavior that you don’t want and obviously you are not going to put this
behavior on cue because you don’t really want him biting anybody under any
circumstance but by simply ignoring the behavior and rewarding him for being
good, this will quickly be phased out. What he is talking about is a little bit of
negative reinforcement, but not negative, when I say negative reinforcement, I
don’t mean like physical punishment.
What I mean by negative reinforcement is immediately giving the dog a negative
reward for the action so that you can decrease the amount of times that he will
actually perform that behavior. So that negative reward in this case is leaving the
room or instantly doing whatever the dog doesn’t like.
The instant he nips, bites, chews on your fingers, whatever and if he really likes
you and is a puppy that just loves everybody like most puppies do, then leaving
the rooms like, oh gosh that wasn’t any fun and every time I bite his hand or her
hand, she leaves the room. So I am not going to do that any more, that’s not fun
and it’s a good way to start dogs from biting. It is used with all sorts of different
animals with that sort of negative reward is basically what it is.
How To Stop Your Dog From
Always Jumping On People
Okay so I am going to have to break form here and I know that this CD was
created from a standpoint of teaching your dog how to be well behaved by never
touching your dog, but I do have to break form and actually touch your dog on
this next line. Stopping your dog from jumping up, obviously the dog is going to
be jumping on you. So it sort of touches you right after that. But there is a couple
of two different ways that we can do this that are going to work out and the first
one is like say your dog greets you very excitedly when you come home from
What I would try to do is try to find yourself a glass door in your house that
maybe you have or maybe you don’t. But if you can have a glass door in your
house, it is going to be helpful and come home from work, have the dog usually in
a spot where he can see you coming from work like our dog does and can see us
through the window.
Approach the door, the dog can be all excited and then give it the sit command or
the stay command so the dog, probably that you don’t want to actually stick with
the sit, with the lie down or something, it is not jumping up, preferably probably
to sit, get him to sit and then open the door.
Now, if the dog jumps up and jumps on you real quick or goes to jump on you
immediately shut the door and start over and teach your dog that no, he does not
get to see you unless his butt is firmly planted on the floor throughout the entire
greeting you process and continue to do that by shutting the door every time the
dog gets up. Instantly he gets up, don’t let it get the chance to come to you and
jump up on you because then you are just going to be stuck and I will show you a
little way how to get out of that here in a second.
But every day you come home from work or every day anybody comes home that
the dog is excited to greet, have him to do the same process where they open the
door after they have cued the dog to sit and shut the door if he gets up and if he
stays sitting, perfect, give him a great scratch, pat on the head and tell him good
boy and you are done and you can basically go back outside and do it again or as
long as the dog is excited to see you, you can do that.
In every instance that he is excited to see you throughout the day, you can
perform that. Now, let’s say that you have kind of messed up and the dog has
actually jumped up on you. Now this is what you can do. Don’t knee your dog in
the chest or something like that.
It does work, I know many people that the dogs have stopped jumping up on their
owners, but it also trains the dog really not to like you because he gets hurt every
time he comes near you. So, it is a little bit of a barrier that you are building for
yourself with that behavior. What I would do is do something that is just
uncomfortable for the dog, the dog really doesn’t like all that much, but it is not
that bad and that should be a, I guess a fail-safe or fall back.
When the dog jumps up, try to catch his paws and by catching his paws, you
stretch up his arms a little bit so he just feels a little awkward and a little bit off
balance and in an unnatural position, not hurting him whatsoever and as soon as
he’s uncomfortable some dogs will start to reach for your hands so that you will
not immediately drop him.
But don’t go to the point where he is ever hurting or stretching out so you tear
something or whatever. Just hold him up there longer than he wants to be held
up and let him realize on his own that every time I jump up on my owner, my
owner does not necessarily do anything wrong, but I don’t really like it because I
have to stay up here all the time and you are going to basically negatively
reinforce your dog to not jump up on you, obviously take the first choice first, it ‘s
a little more, you are able to fit it into your daily routine better and it is more
positive reward for your dog and it is more positive interaction when you first
meet your dog, but the second one does work too and it’s not a bad substitute.
Potty Training Your Dog
Potty training your dog is a lot easier than most people think, especially if your
dog is already trained and understanding what the clicker means.
So, if you are actually skipping forward to this section on the CD, make sure you
go back and refer to CD number 1 where we talk about clicker training and it is
best to even go back and retrain your dog the sit command using the clicker. Just
say your dog understands what a clicker means and you will know there are leaps
and bounds of improvement with house training your dog.
You start by just watching your dog and as soon as he starts to go inside of your
house, which you most likely will end up doing, just quietly, don’t make any fuss,
don’t yell at him, don’t tell him no, don’t even say words. Just go grab him. Take
him outside to his whatever spot that you want him to use as his bathroom if you
would like to call it that and put him back out there.
Wait until he starts to go again and as soon as he goes, give your cue, whether it’s
go potty or if you want to be clever and put a different term to it, whatever your
cue word is, in this case we will just say go potty as soon as he starts to do it, click
and reward and just make a big fuss and be excited that he did it properly.
Now, it’s important that there are a bunch of different tips here. Make sure that
you clean up the mess inside the house really, really thoroughly because dogs will
tend to go in the same spot every time. It is important that they can’t smell their
past odor and there is a bunch of products on the market that are available in
your pet shops and also a tip that might work well is white vinegar mixed with
about 50:50 white vinegar and then water and spray it out over to help kind of
eliminate the odor and the scent that was left originally and clean that up off your
carpet and make sure too that in your dog’s bathroom outdoors or wherever you
want him to go, make sure that you leave enough of a scent there like don’t
always pick up after every single mess.
Make sure that there is a little bit of a scent there so that it is a familiar place to
them especially during the training that oh this is where I go and just like the rest
of the training session, again I am going to, kind of, reiterate since I am guessing
you might be jumping into the section. Make sure that when the dog goes, as he is
going he gives the cue like go potty you click the clicker and reward him. You give
him a treat, you pat him, you play with him, whatever your dog’s favorite reward
is, make sure that you just make it a big scene and let the dog know that was a
I would also like to add that you should be very aware of your dog’s cycles
throughout the day. Obviously, puppies will go to the bathroom more often when
they have just eaten, when they have got up from naps, those sorts of things and
so you can set your dog out to succeed instead of fail so that you, you know that,
you don’t want to catch him in the house all the time. You want to try to get him
outside every time so he doesn’t fail.
You want to get him so that you notice, okay, this is exactly where he always,
always goes to the bathroom two minutes after every meal and so feed him, two
minutes later take him outside to his spot, tell him to go potty and then he will be
ready and raring to go right then and click and reward and it would just be a
smoother process, so get the reward right away. Make sure you do it after naps,
after all the natural times that you see your dog going to the bathroom so that you
can just set him up for success and catch him that many more times throughout
It is probably beneficial to keep a chart, maybe, of the times where he goes to the
bathroom so that you can be very aware of it and or so any pet sitter could be
aware of it. So the process goes a whole lot smoother.
Curing Your Dog’s Irrational
Fears Of Objects/People
It’s quite possible that your dog has a fear of something maybe like a vacuum
I have a dog that got afraid of, I guess it was like a TV tray, dinner sort of a thing
that it accidentally fell over one time and it just really spooked him. So he had
some fear associated with a few different objects.
So, I just want to walk you through how to quickly get your dog acclimated to
something like a vacuum cleaner or just work with any object whatsoever and it is
going to take me thirty seconds to spell out for you. Basically, it is just clicker
training, the same thing we have gone through so far.
Click the object in the room and then just bring your dog into that room with you,
maybe it is best if it is confined room, not really small like a small bathroom or
anything like that so that your dog will be afraid and be tucked into the corner,
but a big room where your dog has the option to roam freely and isn’t going to
pick the corner.
Stick the vacuum at a certain distance away from the dog where you can tell he is
not being affected by it and wait for your dog to look at the vacuum, click and
reward, then wait for him to take a step towards the vacuum, click and reward
and continue to move the object closer and closer and closer, not the object, I am
sorry, but continue to coax, lure, closer and closer to the object on his own free
will, not by you pulling him towards the object or not by you bringing the object
closer to him, but by rewarding just with clicks and good treats with the dog that
is well associated with.
The click, the sound of the clicker being rewarded until he has gotten so close that
he eventually is triggered to paw or touch with his nose or to just stand near the
vacuum or whatever is present and you take it a step further.
So, go into a bigger room and once you have got him used to the object itself is
okay, then turn it on (the vacuum), take it into a big room and do the same thing
where you bring the dog closer and closer and closer to the object while it is on
and with the same process just getting him accustomed to becoming familiar with
the vacuum cleaner and overcoming his fear through realizing that gosh no
matter how closer I get, I really don’t get hurt ever and so it is okay.
Now there is one thing that could happen and that is vacuum cleaner might be
really, that might hurt your dog’s ears and if that is the case, you know, but at
least you will be able to fear he will just not like the sound and so he will leave out
of that aspect. So, maybe it is best to start with a dust-buster or something that is
producing less noise.
But you can just kind of play along with those sorts and methods and get your
dog used to that object.
Curing Your Dog’s Dangerous Aggression
If you listen to nothing else on this CD or this audio session except for this one
track, it very well is worth all the money you spent on this kit, possibly even the
life of your dog. It talks about what we are going to talk about right now; how to
cure your dog’s aggression towards people because your dog can be put to sleep if
it bites a person and we do not want your dogs or anybody’s dog going after
So, pay attention, if your dog does have some serious biting problems and they
are very serious, then take it to a professional dog behavior consultant and not
one over the phone, but one that will do an in-house session.
Or you can take your dog so that he can get some professional on hand help and
some very, very accurate analysis of why your dog is doing this. But if you are just
trying to help and your dog is in the beginning stages, let’s kick it in the butt right
away and stop the behavior.
I think I mentioned earlier in this audio series that I had a friend, have a friend
who used to come over and the dog would growl at him and bark very loudly and
what we had to do is we took the dog on a leash and obviously the friend had to
participate in this. But he never would attack the person but he would continue to
bark at him and he could tell you he was not happy with his presence even when
he came into the house and number one key is we realize we cannot corner the
We could not tie him up and, and let the dog be cornered because that’s when he
would lash out. So don’t corner your dog and the next step we did was we clipped
the dog and put him on a leash and when the person would come up to the door,
the dog would start to go bark wild.
It did this in a whole lot of occasions, whenever the postman would show up,
whenever complete strangers would show up, all that sort of stuff and people
would come to the door, ring the door bell, the dog would really, really flip out
and this is very much the same with barking too. But I would have the dog on the
leash and I would open the door and it helped that the person knew the situation.
So try to, maybe talk to your postal carrier and let him stand there for the next 30
seconds, whatever it takes, but I helped the dog on the leash and I waited there
for the dog to completely calm down or at least calm down a little bit so he
stopped barking or stopped tugging on the leash, some form of progress and that
I would click and reward him and this only works if your dog is well associated
with the clicker.
But overtime through repetitions you can cure this behavior by simply making
your dog realize that okay if I just relax, I get this really good treat and everything
is okay and overtime, you know, after hundred times, after a thousand times,
whatever it takes of your dog realizing gosh, this always works out for the better
and this always works out wonderfully, maybe give the person a treat to come to
the door so that the stranger offers a treat to the dog so that if all strangers give a
treat to your dog, how bad can strangers be, I guess coming from the point of
where your dog is. So just a couple of points that you can use to cure that
aggression towards those strangers.
Start with stopping the barking and then go from there and getting him to calm
down and do those sorts of things. You can also work on this calming down
technique so he has an idea of what calming down is if you already have a
hyperactive dog. When you come home from work, maybe he does not jump up
on you, but totally, is totally, totally hyper.
Put him on a leash and just observe and wait for the dog to calm down by just
standing there very still, wait for the dog to calm down and then click and reward
for the dog calming down and then get to the point where you say calm down or
you have a certain cue that you attach to that behavior when your dog gets wild so
that your dog gets into a mode where he just calms down so that you can then
attach that phrase to the postman, to the stranger coming to the door, whatever it
takes so that you can have the dog calm down, realize this is a situation where he
will get rewarded if he just settles down, everything is going to be okay and those
sorts of things.
So I think that should help you a lot and if you have some serious problem with
dog biting or it has bitten people before, get him some professional help, in-house
help so that you can seriously attack this problem.
How To Train Prolonged Stays
If you have a problem of your dog begging at dinner or simply just want to train it
to have its own spot that you want it to go to while you eat dinner, while you have
breakfast or just when you want it to get out of your hair, you can teach it to go to
its rug and this is very, very similar to the crate training and it will just take a
little bit of time and a little repetition.
If your dog has already been crate trained, this will be a lot easier to teach,
especially if you did it using our methods. You will simply have a place that is
designated for your dog. If you have a like a pillow, kind of a mattress type thing
for your dog, if you want him to sleep there in your room and it is kind of in the
corner, maybe you have a specific rug that you want the dog to sleep on so that it
doesn’t get hair and everything all over the rest of the house or your bed or
I guess for the sake of explaining this, we will say it is a little red rug and you have
this rug in the room with the dog, you have the treats in hand, you have the
clicker in hand and as soon as your dog accidentally looks at the rug, you click it
and toss the treat.
When the dog takes a step forward towards the rug, you click it and again toss the
treat. Every step that the dog makes to get closer to the rug, you want to make
sure that you reward that and again like with the crate training, don’t reward,
stop rewarding if he backtracks. Don’t reward unless he moves forward and has
progressed to getting to the rug. The closer he gets to the rug again and he puts
his foot on the rug, you click, you reward.
As soon as he will stand on the rug, get him to sit down on the rug by simply
giving a sit command or waiting for him to sit and then clicking and rewarding
and you want to start adding your cue, which can simply be go to your rug and
time this out like we do on the rest of the training and you are saying go to your
As he is going on you click, you reward and this is just going to be a matter of
repetition and I do want to make a quick point that clicker training is not always
about the animal getting the behavior right, but it is just as important for the
animal to fail and not be rewarded as it is for the animal to do the right behavior
and get a reward and what I mean by this is you tell the animal, your dog, you tell
him to go to your rug and he goes, he lays down, he sits or whatever you want him
to do, you click and reward.
You tell him to do it again and he does not go. It is important that you completely
ignore that and don’t try to keep pursuing him, go to your rug, go to your rug, go
to your rug until he gets it. Because you want the dog to think, okay, I was used to
a pattern, I am used to doing something and getting a treat and all of a sudden, I
didn’t get a treat for doing what I was told, I don’t know, and let him think about
the fact that it did not go to the rug and then it reinforces that much more when I
do go to the rug and you click and you reward and that was a correct behavior.
I also want to make sure it is very, very important that you when training your
dog, you go to your rug, go into his chair, go wherever you want him to go, go to
his bed, that you train this by adding distance and you train this by adding
duration so that your dog will stay there for 30 seconds or a minute, 10 minutes,
20 minutes, 30 minutes, obviously you guess that you are having a nice dinner
outside, not outside but inside.
Don’t want a dog under their feet begging for table scraps. You want him to be
nicely tucked away, behaving themselves on their mat, in their bed whatever it is.
So gradually take that training by stepping back, making the dog hold his sit, his
lay down whatever it is on that mat or whatever his spot is for longer and longer
periods of time until you are really literally out after 20, 30 minutes.
It is the time _____ you want them to be and you can have him hold it and you
can even take a break from the room, come back, you know, leave the room for
five seconds, come back, leave the room for ten seconds, come back.
Make sure you are going out of site so that your dog doesn’t think that he only has
to hold to stay while you are there and those sorts of things, just so that your dog
will hold the stay when you aren’t paying attention to him and when he can’t see
you on the mat, in his bed and not _____ guess or for whatever situation.
Leash Training Your Dog
Clicker training can be very, very effective in leash training your dog so that he is
not always yanking on you when you are trying to take a nice walk or run, just do
whatever. So he is not just constantly pulling you.
So funny when I see people, being pulled by 200-pound dogs down the sidewalk
and it doesn’t look like a whole lot of fun to me. But it is really not that hard to
cure him. You can have that dog obeying your command.
It is very natural for your dog to want to pull on the leash and it is not extremely
effective to yank on the leash to get your dog to stop pulling, it just makes him
want to pull harder. If you have ever tried to pull your dog towards something he
did not want to go to, but to do, it pulls harder.
It is like pulling the donkey. He doesn’t want to go there. You are fighting yourself
when you do that and so some real quick simple tips that I thought were useful
was before I get to the clicker training part, getting your dog to pay attention to
where you are going. Now, in doing this, what I would do is I set out four cones.
You can just put basically an imaginary square and I would walk the square and
what I did is I had a big leash, 15-feet leash and I would let the dog get distracted
and then I would walk, fast-pace walk in the other direction. So I gave him a little
tug, not a jerk that yanked him off his feet or anything.
It made him yell, but just a little nudge in the other way that let him know well,
hey, my owner has gone that way and I forgot to pay attention and he is leaving
me. So I am going to run over and pay attention and what ends up _____ after
you do this a couple of times and the dog gets a few tugs in the direction when he
was not expecting it is all of a sudden he is watching you.
Now it is important not to make eye contact during this period of time with the
dog. You want the dog to realize that it was his mistake for not paying attention,
you don’t want to look at him and make eye contact and be very comfortable and
make it think like you were punishing him by jerking chain or whatever you are
doing and I am not advocating jerking a chain here, but, but I think you
understand the point.
Doing that so that you get the leash down shorter and shorter and shorter so that
the dog is always paying attention and keeping your eyes on you and that will
make it so that it is a little bit easier when are trying to corner with the dog and
just maneuver that he is not always going the opposite direction and trying to go
up to changing directions.
That being said, to stop pulling on the leash is very simple. Have a treat, have a
clicker and just go out for a walk. Have a regular decent-sized leash and I mean a
decent just a 4, 5, 6-feet leash and just go out for a walk. Start walking the dog
and as soon as he starts pulling, I just want you to stop and just wait. I don’t care
if you have to wait a minute, 30 seconds, 2 minutes whatever until the dog stops
pulling. It’s probably only going to take a few seconds and as soon as he stops
pulling at the far end of the leash, click, toss him a treat and go on. As soon as he
starts pulling again, immediately stop. Don’t pay any attention or pay any eye
contact to him. Don’t pet him.
Don’t do whatever until he relaxes, control the leash, pet, I am sorry, click, give
him a treat and go about your business and it won’t take very long for him to
realize that _____ I never, I never, I can’t ever pull on this leash, otherwise I
don’t get rewarded. Now, that will only go so far. You also need to reinforce good
behavior, which is once again to stop pulling on a leash for one second. Now jog
for two, three steps if he hasn’t started pulling on the leash, click, stop, and give
him another treat.
Then jog for five seconds and jog for ten seconds until you can build up your time
to the dog’s running for 20, 30, 40 minutes and an hour at a time _____ you
want to walk or run without pointing on the leash and then clicking and
rewarding and you probably won’t really need to click and reward once you get
past 15 minutes or so. The dog will have gotten the behavior down and just
realizes that he is not supposed to pull and just intermittent pets confirmation,
prays is all you are going to need and he is just going to be plenty happy with a
new adjusted habit.
But there is a pretty basic simple concept to get your dog to stop pulling on the
leash, important to clicker training and some other behaviors. He knows what the
clicker means before attempting this, usually like a sit, sort of a beginner
command and this should be a piece of cake and your dog will stop taking you for
a walk and you cannot actually walk your dog.
To close up the session of audio seminar here, I want to just give you a couple of
tips on the training of your dog that will lead you on to just greater success. First
one, I am just going to kind of rattle off a few. Try, try changing things up. Train
your dog in different clothing. Don’t always wear the same outfit when you are
Make sure you incorporate different distractions and different rooms, not at the
beginning but just towards the more advanced phases of each step. Make sure
that you have a dog walking by or there are neighbor kids outside playing, little
things it would normally be distractions if you can still have your dog doing all of
the desired behaviors with these distractions, you really are going to know it is a
huge improvement and just an incredibly well-trained dog, again just different
rooms have different people train your dog.