R & d activities in khadi sector – 15.11.03, iitd
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R & d activities in khadi sector – 15.11.03, iitd Presentation Transcript

  • 1. R & D ACTIVITIES IN KHADI SECTOR – TEXTILE DEPT. CONTRIBUTION Prof. R.B.Chavan
  • 2. KHADI & TEXTILE GROUP TEAM
    • FACULTY-
    • Prof. R.B.Chavan (Chemical Processing)
    • Prof. R.Chattopadhayay (Spinning)
    • Mr. R.P.Tiwari (Weaving outside expert)
    • SPECIAL INVITEE
    • Dr. R. Alagirusamy
    • Dr. A. Das
  • 3. KHADI & TEXTILE GROUP TEAM
    • PROJECT STAFF – From the Inception of Project
    • Contributed to project and taken up other assignment -
    • Laxmikant (M-Tech Student – Arvind Mills, Ahmedabad)
    • Santosh (M-Tech Student – Clariant, Switzerland)
    • Ashwini Goyal (M-Tech – TIT, Bhivani)
    • Shirish Kumar (Ph D student)
    • Rajesh Kumar (Dip. In handloom tech. – DRDO, Mumbai)
    • Project staff presently in position -
    • Rajkishore Nayak (M-Tech)
    • Abhishek Goenka (B-Tech)
    • Shivmohan Tripathi (Dip. In Textile Chemistry – Khadi Vidyalaya)
    • Narendra Mishra (Attendent)
  • 4. PROJECTS IDENTIFIED
    • BASIS
    • TO IMPROVE THE QUALITY OF KHADI
    • TO ENHANCE KHADI SALE
  • 5. PHILOSOPHY
    • NO BASIC RESEARCH
    • IDENTIFICATION OF WELL ESTABLISHED TECHNOLOGIES PRACTICED IN THE MILL SECTOR (MASS PRODUCTION)
    • DOWNSIZE THE TECHNOLOGY TO MAKE IT SUITABLE FOR KHADI SECTOR (PRODUCTION BY MASSES)
  • 6. MISSION PROJECTS
    • FINISHING OF KHADI GARMENTS
    • QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL
    • MERCERIZATION OF KHADI YARN
    • MODIFICICATION OF NEW MODEL CHARKHA (NMC)
    • ADDITIONAL PROJECTS
    • BLENDING OF ACRYLIC WITH MERINO WOOL
    • STATUS REPORT ON KHADI INSTITUTION IN WARDHA REGION.
  • 7. STRATEGY
    • PHASE I
    • STANDARIZATION & TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION AT IIT-DELHI
    • PHASE II
    • TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION ON ALL INDIA BASIS
    • PHASE III
    • TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER IN KHADI SECTOR
    • PROVED TO BE SUCCESSFUL STRATEGY
  • 8. VISITS TO SELECTED KHADI INSTITUTIONS
    • MAJOR PROBLEMS
    • QUALITY OF KHADI
    • MARKETABILITY
    • LACK OF TECHNICAL MANPOWER
  • 9. FINISHING OF KHADI GARMENTS
    • PHASE I
    • STANDARDIZATION AND TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION AT IIT DELHI
    • SOFT FINISH
    • STIFF FINISH
    • STONELESS STONE WASH FINISH
    • ENZYME FINISH/BIO-POLISHING
    • WRINKLE FREE FINISHING OF POLYVASTRA
    • TECHNOLOGY DEONSTRATION AT IIT DELHI
    • FEBRUARY 26-28, 2001
    • FEED BACK: SOFT AND STIFF FINISH IDENTIFIED FOR INTRODUCTION INTO KHADI SECTOR
  • 10. TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION WORKSHOP ON SOFT & STIFF FINISHING OF KHADI GARMENTS
    • Central Sliver Plant, Etah (UP) April 25-26,2002
    • MGIRI, Wardha June 29-30,2002
    • K. Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki July 11-12, 2002
    • K. Khadi Gramodyog Samittee, Dausa Aug 10-11, 2002
    • Padyur Sarvodaya Sangh, Padyur Aug 31-Sept 1, 2002
    • Marathwada Khadi Gr. Samitee, Nanded Sept 7-8, 2002
    • K. Shri Gandhi Ashram, Saharanpur Sept 21-22, 2002
    • Chhotanagpur Khadi Gr. Sansthan,
    • Tiril, Ranchi Sept 30, Oct 1, 2002
  • 11. TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION ON ALL INDIA BASIS
    • STATE NO. OF WORKSHOPS
    • MAHARASTRA 2
    • UTTAR PRADESH 3
    • TAMILNADU 1
    • JHARKHAND 1
    • RAJASTHAN 1
    • TOTAL 8
    • FUNDS FROM KVIC Rs. 8 LAKS
  • 12. FEED BACK FROM THE WORKSHOP
    • The technology is viable & can be immediately adapted in khadi sector.
    • The marketability of khadi garment would be enhanced after finishing.
    • The equipments used for technology demonstration were suitable for only for demonstration & not for bulk production of finishing of khadi garments.
    • A production unit for finishing of khadi garments in different zones must be set up for technology dissemination.
  • 13. EXPERIMENTAL PRODUCTION OF FINISHED KHADI GARMENT
    • The dye house manager shri Dinanath from Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki took the lead in finishing of khadi garment & fabrics using demonstration model machines.
    • Processed more than 1 lac meters khadi fabric from own & other khadi institutions.
    • The market feedback of soft & stiff finished khadi fabric & garments was very encouraging.
    • Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki was identified for setting model garment finishing unit.
  • 14. RECOMMENDATION FOR FURTHER ACTION PLAN
    • Setting up of model garment manufacturing & garment finishing production unit.
    • The use of model unit as training center for training of technical personnel from other khadi institutions.
    • The training while showing the actual production will be more realistic.
    • Such training would facilitated the technical staff to implement the technology in their respective institutions.
  • 15. RECOMMENDATION FOR FURTHER ACTION PLAN CONTINUE…
    • The training on production scale machine would also convince the khadi institutions, the improvement in khadi quality achieved by using proper machinery & process parameter.
    • Some of the khadi institutes may come forward to invest on their own rather than depending on the kvic funding for the procurement of some of the machines depends on their financial condition.
  • 16. KVIC RESPONSE TO THE MODEL UNIT
    • It is heartening to mention that KVIC appreciated the idea for setting of model khadi garment finishing unit at Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki.
    • A grant of Rs.12.55 lacs was approved.
    • The model khadi garment unit will have the capacity for finishing 500-800 garments/day.
  • 17. INAUGURATION OF GARMENT FINISHING UNIT
    • I am extremely delighted that with the grant from KVIC, painstaking efforts by faculty & technical staff of khadi group, extremely good cooperation from KVIC state office- Lucknow, secretary & staff members of Gandhi ashram, Barabanki, a model khadi garment finishing unit has been set up & inaugurated on June 2, 2003 by honorable shri Sanghpriya Gautam, minister for state A.R.I ( Government of India)
  • 18. GARMENT FINISHING UNIT
  • 19. INAUGURATION OF GARMENT FINISHING UNIT
  • 20. GARMENT MANUFACTURING UNIT
        • A grant of Rs. 11.5 lacs has been sanctioned for setting up model garment manufacturing unit at Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki.
  • 21. TOTAL ADDITIONAL GRANT GIVEN BY KVIC
    • Rs. (Lakhs )
    • 1. TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION
    • WORKSHOPS 8
    • 2. GARMENT FINISHING UNIT 12.55
    • 3. GARMENT STICHING UNIT 11.50
    • TOTAL 32.05
  • 22. DYEING OF KHADI WITH NATURAL DYES
    • For environmental protection the concept of natural dyes is well accepted particularly in western market.
    • India has a reach tradition of dyeing cotton, wool & silk with natural dyes.
    • Problems associated with the traditional knowledge on dyeing with natural dyes are :
      • Non-reproducibility of the results
      • Inadequate fastness properties of the dyed fabric.
  • 23. DYEING OF KHADI WITH NATURAL DYES
    • Research & Development at IIT Delhi –
    • A dyeing technique has been established for dyeing of cotton, wool & silk with following natural dyes which would give reproducible results :
    • Anar (Pomegranate)
    • Babool (Acacia)
    • Harda (Myrabolan)
    • Katha (Kutch)
    • Arjun (Arjuna)
    • Safeda (Eucalyptus)
    • Amla
  • 24. DYEING OF KHADI WITH NATURAL DYES
    • Bulk Scale Trial –
    • A bulk scale trial was conducted by carrying out dyeing of 3000 mts of fabric with different natural dye sources at Khshetriya shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki.
    • This trial has been very successful .
  • 25. QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL
    • With the help of an expert committee consisting of members from KVIC, khadi institutions, BIS & IIT Delhi
    • A draft of more than 200 pages of quality assurance of khadi is ready.
    • A workshop on quality assurance on khadi has been conducted at MGIRI, Wardha on September 5-6, 2003
  • 26. IMPLEMENTATION OF QUALITY ASSURANCE NORMS
    • DISCUSSION WITH KHADI INSTITUTIONS FOR ACCEPTABILITY OF THE NORMS GIVEN IN THE MANUAL
    • INCORPORATING THE SUGGESTIONS FROM THE KHADI INSTITUTIONS AND REVISING THE QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL
    • SETTING OF QUALITY ASSURANCE LABORATORIES IN ONE OF THE KAHDI INSTITUTIONS.
  • 27.
    • HRD PROGRAMMES ON QUALITY ASSURANCE WITH PRACTICAL DEMONSTARTION OF THE TEST EQUIPMENTS.
    • TESTING THE ACHIVEABILITY OF THE YARNS AND THE FABRIC AS PER THE NORMS.
    • IDENTIFICATION OF THE TECHNICAL PERSONNEL FROM KVIC & KHADI INSTITUTION AND THEIR TRAINING IN QUALITY ASSURANCE.
    IMPLEMENTATION OF QUALITY ASSURANCE NORMS
  • 28. MERCERIZATION OF KHADI YARN
    • A simple process
    • Treatment with 25 % caustic soda
    • Advantages
      • Increase in strength of yarn.
      • Increase in dye ability.
      • Improved dimensional stability.
    • Hank mercerization machine
      • A machine for mercerization of 1 kg. Of khadi yarn has been designed & fabricated.
    • A work for design & fabrication of machine for mercerization of 3 kg. of yarn is in progress.
  • 29. PHOTOGRAPH OF 1 KG. MERCERIZATION MACHINE
  • 30. DEVELOPMENT OF WOOL / ACRYLIC BLEND
    • A technique has been standardized for blending of acrylic fibre with Merino wool.
    • This technique has been adopted by one of the khadi institution, Udyog Mandir, Aamer (Jaipur) for production of acrylic : wool (80:20) blended shawls.
    • It has been reported that 100 such shawls have been produced for market feedback.
    • Market feedback –
      • Good acceptability in the market.
      • Reduction in the price of shawl almost by Rs. 200.
      • Affordable by low and middle income group people.
      • Saving in foreign exchange in import of Merino wool.
  • 31. PHOTOGRAPH OF WOOL / ACRYLIC BLEND SHAWL
  • 32. LONG TERM ACTION PLAN
    • Khadi group at IIT Delhi firmly believes that the technological inputs would bring the radical change in the khadi sector to meet the global challenges.
    • It has been suggested to set up a Technology Mission For Khadi.
  • 33. STATUS REPORT ON KHADI INSTITUTIONS IN VIDHARBHA REGION
    • A comprehensive study on the technology status of nine khadi institutions in the Vidharbha region has been carried out.
      • Gram Seva Mandal, Gopuri
      • Maharogi Sewa Samiti, Dattapur
      • Nag Vidarbha Charkha Sangh, Mul-Chandrapur
      • Nagpur Khadi Mandal, Gandhisagar-Nagpur
      • Magan Sangharalaya, Wardha
      • Sane Guruji Gram Vikas Pratishthan, Nagpur
      • Vavelal Khadi Sansthan, Vavelal (A.P.)
      • Jaipur Dyeing & Printing works, Nagpur
      • Weaver’s of different sansthan at Kamthee.
  • 34. STATUS REPORT ON KHADI INSTITUTIONS IN VIDHARBHA REGION
    • Needless to say the status of technology is low & there is enormous scope for improvement.
    • Following areas need immediate attention –
      • Exhaustive technical training programs.
      • Standardization of hank sizing & provision of ready warp beam to weaver to weaving quality & weaver’s earnings.
      • Strengthening the chemical processing of khadi yarn & fabric.
      • Introduction of hank mercerization process in the khadi sector
      • Setting of quality control laboratories.
      • Design & product development.
      • Design & fabrication of suitable equipments useful for khadi sector.
      • Setting up of model khadi unit.
  • 35. STRATEGY PAPER FOR POSITIONING OF KHADI IN NEXT 10 YEARS
    • It is heartening to mention that KVIC has set up a working group to formulate a strategy paper for positioning of khadi in next 10 years.
    • It is hoped that this group would bring forward the ideas & KVIC will provide necessary funds to put khadi on sound technology foundation, which is essential for the survival of khadi & also to meet the challenges of global competition .
  • 36. STRENGTH OF KHADI GROUP
    • REASONABLLY CONVERSANT WITH PROBLEMS OF KHADI SECTOR
    • VERY GOOD LINKAGE HAS BEEN ESTABLISHED WITH KVIC & KHADI INSTITUTIONS
    • KHADI PROBLEMS CAN BE OVERCOME BY NEW TECHNOLOGICAL INPUTS
    • TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER
    • EXHAUSTIVE TRAINING PROGRAMMES
    • KHADI GROUP IS CONFIDENT TO PROVIDE THESE INPUTS
  • 37. BEYOND MGIRI PROJECT
    • SETTING UP MODEL SPINNING AND WEAVING UNIT AT BARABANKI
    • INSTALLATION OF STENTER FOR POLYVASTRAS PROCESSING
    • DYEING OF COTTON WITH NATURAL DYES AND PRODUCT MARKETING
    • ISOLATION OF NATUARL DYES IN POWDER FORM
    • TECHNOLOGY MISSION FOR KHADI
  • 38. FUTURE ACTIVITIES
    • NEW PROJECTS (PRIORITY)
    • SETTING UP OF MODEL SPINNING & WEAVING UNITS
    • SETTING UP OF QUALITY ASSURANCE LABORATORIES.
    • STANDARIZATION OF HANK SIZING TECHNOLOGY
    • IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINE FOR HANK, SPOOL, PIRN WINDING
    • PROVIDING READY WARP TO WEAVERS
    • SERIES OF HRD PROGRAMMES (A PROPOSAL 15 HRD PROGRAMMES IS SUBMITTED TO KVIC)