Eco fibres and eco friendly textiles 2Presentation Transcript
Organic cotton India conventional cotton India Organic cotton World production
SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECT California's Central Valley
ORGANIC COTTON SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECT
ORGANIC COTTON REDUCTION IN AGROCHEMICALS
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons) 900 900 928 398 268 206 India 400 475 500 450 Greece 630 650 600 598 141 38 Egypt 5 5 1 9 2 Brazil 5 Benin 400 500 400 750 500 479 Australia 70 132 126 120 2 Argentina 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 Country
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons) 200 100 100 33 Tanzania 30 20 2 Turkey 650 1500 1516 924 700 400 Peru' 50 50 50 75 100 Paraguay 20 20 20 16 Nicaragua 50 90 90 Mozambique 50 100 100 Israel 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 Country
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons) 7967 9028 12864 9498 6201 3408 Total 5 Zimbabway 30 30 35 Zambia 2852 3396 7425 5365 4274 2155 USA 800 300 250 150 16 Uganda 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 Country
Organic T shirt organic sweat shirt orgnic terry robe Organic fashion wear Organic night gown Organic slippers
Earth Friendly Fashions Simplify Life, Relax Your Mind, Calm Your Soul, Open Your Heart. Experience Fisher Henney Naturals
Organic cotton body wear Organic cotton apparel
Organic cotton apparels
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON COTTON THAT GROWS WITH NATURAL COLOURS DURING CULTIVATION BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED COTTONS KNOWN SINCE TIME IMEMORIAL IN INDIA
NON POPULARITY OF COLOURED COTTON LOW YIELD SEED AVAILABILITY LOW FINENESS, LOW STAPLE LENGTH LOW STRENGTH POOR SPINNABILITY LOW YARN AND FABRIC QUALITY LIMITED COLOUR RANGE CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON
ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION WAVE IMPETUS TO THE CULTIVATION OF NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON SHADES PISTA GREEN AND ALMOND BROWN MOST COMMON OTHER SHADES CREAM PINK MAUVE COUNTRIES INDIA USA ISRAEL CHINA PERU
IMPORTANT ASPECTS EARLIER LOW FIBRE LENGTH, POOR SPINNABILITY YARN SPINNING OF 10 TO 12s COUNT RESEARCH INPUTS IMPROVED FIBRE QUALITY POSSIBLE TO SPIN YARNS OF 30 AND 40s COUNT SUITABLE FOR WEAVING AND KNITTING IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS GREEN VARIETY TURNS BROWN IF NOT HARVESTED ON RIPENING BROWN VARIETY DARKENS WITH AGE AND EXPOSURE TO LIGHT GREEN AND BRWON DARKEN ON LAUNDERING NOT FAST TO BLEACHING
COTTON CORPORATION OF INDIA AND CENTRAL COTTON RESEARCH INSTITUTE NAGPUR 1996-97 INVESTMENT Rs. 80 LAKHS CULTIVATION OF COLOURED COTTON AT KHANDWA, MADHYA PRADESH DHARWAD, KARNATAKA PROJECT DID NOT SUCEED DUE TO POOR MARKET RESPONSE DEMAND OF HIGH PRICE BY FARMERS MAJOR PROBLEM CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTO FIELDS NECESSARY TO HAVE SEPARATE AREA FOR COLOUR COTTON CULTIVATION
MEANS TO OVERCOME TECHNICAL PROBLEMS LOW STRENGTH AND POOR SPINNABILITY BLENDING 30-50% OF WHITE COTTON WITH COLOURED COTTON CHANGE OF SHADE ON LAUNDERING ON LAUNDERING SHADE BECOMES DEEPER ALKALINE SCOURING STABILIZES THE SHADE CHANGE POOR BLEACHING FASTNESS DO NOT BLEACH
Dr. B.M. Khadi at the University of Agriculture Science Dharwad developed Brown, Green and cream coloured cotton Seeds available for cultivation Till 1960 coloured cotton grown in some parts of India was exported to Japan Coloured cotton is insect and desease resistant and also drought tolerent Innovation failed to take market place
The Cottton Project at the college of agriculture, Khandwa is engaged in research to boost the production and productivity of coloured cotton In 1996, the centre has been successful in developing a variety of cotton which produces seed cotton having natural almond brown colour (JCC-1). There is a vast scope in this direction as such a genotypes will avoid the use of synthetic dyes the demand of organically grown cotton is increasing very fast. Some more colours are being developed
Rocklea spinning Mills in collaboration with Australian farmers introduced range of yarns from brown and green varieties of cotton Blending of coloured cotton with white cotton in diffferent proporations produce shade varieties Australia
In Australia, Jeff & Marilyn Bidstrup, pioneered Australian coloured cotton, When blended, this cotton produces a beautiful "Sand Dune" colour, ideal for our first EcoDownUnder towels. The Bidstrups are leading the industry with Landcare Australia awards and minimising their impact on the environment through "dry land farming" rather than irrigating. Environmental management by rotating cotton crops every 3 seasons and no harsh chemicals applied to their land for over 3 years has seen yields become some of the highest in the industry.
NATIVE COLOUR COTTON PROJECT PERU
COMMENCED IN 1984 TO DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY TO SUPPORT INDIGENOUS FARMERS AND TRADITIONAL ARTISANS
15000 FARDMERS CULTIVATE COLOURED COTTON
50000 WOMEN INVOLVED IN TRADITIONAL HAND SPINNING AND HAND WEAVING
COLOURED COTTON IS PRODUCED WITHOUT THE USE OF SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS AND PESTICIDES
COTTON PLANT GROWS UP TO 5 METERS HIGH
YIELD 10 KG PER PLANT
REMARKABLY RESISTANT TO PEST AND DISEASES
THRIVES IN MARGINAL SOILS WITH LITTLE OR NO RAIN FALL
PRE-HISPANIC GRAVE in the Chancay Valley of Peru is heaped with naturally colored cotton bolls. The ancient people of this coastal area filled the body of the deceased with the cotton, which would absorb the bodily fluids, thereby aiding in the process of mummification. The arid sands of the region preserved the cotton (which was removed from the body when this grave was looted.)
SIX PRINCIPLE COLOUR VARIETIES CREAM Pista green MEDIUM BROWN REDDISH BROWN CHOCOLATE BROWN MAUVE Brown verities possess anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties COFFEE FILTERS MADE FROM CERTIFIED ORGANIC COLOURED COTTON FREE FROM PESTIFCIDES, BLEACHES AND SYNTHETIC COLOURS Natural coloured yarns and fabrics are certified by SKAL, Dutch certifying agency
PERUVIAN TAPESTRY from A.D. 1000 depicts a cotton plant complete with roots, leaves, stems, flowers and ripening cotton bolls spilling forth with naturally pigmented cotton Four species of cotton have different lint lengths. COTTON HARVESTING is done by hand in Peru
Women then sort the cotton, also by hand, for color and quality. Traditional spinning bowl LINT FIBER greatly enlarged reveals the natural twist The dark masses impart the natural color.
Coloured cotton bolls are hand picked Small quantity is used for craft production and domestic consumption in rural market. Large quantity is consumed in uraban market as textile products Medical remedy for over fifty somatic and psychosomatic disorders Colour cotton cultivation by traditional farmers is officially protected Large number of traditional farmers are immensely benefited No patents are held on native colored cotton, respecting and promoting the crop protection rights of the indigenous people of Peru.
Today Indian descendants of ancient Peruvian cultures still harvest, gin and spin by hand the natural colored cottons of Peru.
Slivers of coloured cotton
Naturally coloured yarn for Kniting and Weaving
Coloured cotton fabrics
COTTON CLOTHES in naturally occurring colors are produced in Peru
Sally Fox was introduced to colored cotton while working for a cotton breeder, whose focus was developing pest-resistant strains of cotton. The peoples of Central and South America had spun these strains for centuries, but the fiber qualities were not sufficient for modern machine spinning. Here was Sally Fox’s opportunity to combine her concern for the environment, work in her field of entomology, and practice her favorite pastime, spinning and weaving
Sally Fox in 1982 took on the challenge of improving an ancient agricultural art. Fox successfully bred and marketed varieties of naturally coloured cotton she calls FoxFiber ®. Today, Sally Fox designs fabrics with her cotton and continues research. Fox has received a patent and three Plant Variety Protection Certificates for her naturally colored cottons which, in addition to browns, she now grows in reds and greens. Her invention has been so popular it has sprouted two successful companies -- Vreseis, Ltd. and Natural Cotton Colours, both operating in Arizona.
Natural qualities found in Fox Fibre: Furnish lasting color; repeated washings intensify colors bringing out the warm and rich color tones Enable our cottons to be spun from 100% solid color to any percentage of color blends. Blends of Fox Fibre colors (with each other or with white) can create all of the color shades within the beige, khaki, brown, red brown, dark brown, and green color spectrums Provide a fire retardant tendency Eliminate the need for bleaches, dyes, & other costly processes during textile and product manufacturing
Sally Fox is associted with Athena Mills Arizona Athena Mills is recognized as a leader for two environmentally descriptive trademarks - Colorganic® and Colour-By-Nature®. Both marks ensure the final product's color is from naturally colored cotton. Colorganic additionally ensures certified organic growing practices for all of the cotton fibers in the final product. Fox Fibre offers consumers an ecological alternative in cotton: today's purchase for tomorrow's environment
ECO LABELS Eco-labels are product labels that inform consumers about the environmental impact of a product. They encourage producers to switch to environmentally sound production process methods (PPMs) for advantage in the marketplace. Eco-labels allow producers to differentiate their products from products that are less environmentally friendly and thus to reach environmentally conscious consumers.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLINESS OF THE ENTIRE LIFE CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT CRADLE TO GRAVE ASSESSMENT 1. Production of raw materials 2. Production of the end product 3. Packaging and transport of raw materials and the finished product 4. Use of the product by companies and consumers 5. Disposal of the product e.g. assessment of a T-shirt starts in the cotton field and ends in the incineration plant .
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
As little use as possible of chemical substances harmful to the environment
No or very few heavy metals in the product
Energy conservation during production and use
The lowest possible amounts of harmful substances in wastewater
Requirements which ensure that the product works well and will last long
Opportunities for recycling/reuse
The product should be as unproblematic as possible in terms of waste
Republic of China–Taiwan Green Mark Thailand (Thai Green Label Korea Environmental Labelling Japan Eco Mark India Eco Mark Australia/New Zealand Environmental Choice European Union Eco-label “Flower” scheme
Nordic Countries (Nordic Swan ) Austrian Eco-label Croatia (Environmental Label ) Netherland Ecolabel Foundation