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Module: History of Costume

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Master Magazine

  1. 1. TheHistory of CostumeReference Book
  2. 2. FOREWORD History is the study of the past, with special attention to the written record of the activities of human beings over time. It is a field of research which uses a narrative to examine and analyse the sequence of events, and it often attemps to investigate objectively . the patterns of cause and effect that determine events.The term costume can refer to a wardrobe and dress in general, or tothe distinctive style of dress of a particular people, class, or period.Costume may also refer to the artistic arrangement of accesories in apicture, statue, poem, or play, appropriate to the time, place or othercircumstances represented or described, or to a particular style ofclothing worn to portray the wearer as a character or type of characterother than their regular persona at a social event.Reference is the intensional use of one thing to indicate something else.Whilst, a book is a set of written, printed, illustrated, or blank sheets,made of paper, parchment, or other material, usually fastened togetherto hinge at one side.This is a History of Costume Reference Book.Natalie Zainal Kelvin Halim004F1409 007F1109Laura Ireen Liew Simone Chelsea Cubinar012F1109 002F1109
  3. 3. IntroductionFashion refers to the styles and customs prevalent at a given time.In its most common usage, “fashion” exemplifies the appearancesof clothing, but the term encompasses more. Many fashions are popularin many cultures at any given time. Important is the idea that the courseof design and fashion will change more rapidly than the culture asa whole. Fashion designers create and produce clothing articles.The term innovation means a new way of doing something. It mayrefer to incremental, radical, and revolutionary changes in thinking,products, processes, or organizations. A distinction is typically madebetween invention, an idea made manifest, and innovation,ideas applied successfully.This reference book basically preview fashion innovation; currentfashion styles that incorporated detailing from the past.
  4. 4. The Contents Foreword Introduction THE CHAPTER PRE-HISTORIC & WESTERN EUROPE MESOPOTAMIA THROUGH 11TH CENTURY 15TH CENTURYEGYPT, CRETE, MYCANAE,GREECE, ROME 16TH CENTURY THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE 17TH CENTURY THE APPENDIXES
  5. 5. Daria Werbowy by Michael ThompsonDraped furs, long-sleeved fur coat
  6. 6. PRE HISTOR ICANDMESOPOT
  7. 7. Daria Werbowy by Michael ThompsonCaps of fur worn to keep the head warm
  8. 8. Missonis Campaign Spring/Summer 2009 Beltsthin stripes of hide to tie around the waist Photographer Steven Meisel
  9. 9. Leather usedphoto by Reuters
  10. 10. UK Vogue March 2009 Editorial Black and White Animal hide short bootsPhotographer Nick Knight Model Anja Rubik
  11. 11. Babylonian slanted skirt Stylish by Craig McDean
  12. 12. Flair January 2009Rachel Clark Assyrian
  13. 13. Tilda Swinton by Craig McDean for Another Magazine Fringe, dominant features of the Sumerian costume
  14. 14. H & M Collection by Commes des Garcons for Amica Persian trouser Photographer Anja Frers Styling Marion Darimont Hair/Make-up Gabi Speckbacher
  15. 15. Greenpeace Tattoo Stop Killing Whales Advertising Agency Leo Burnett Hong kongCreative Directors Connie Lo, Chong Kin, Yiu Man To Art Directors Kenny Ip, Jacky Tong Illustrator Thomas Ho Photographer Lewis Ho
  16. 16. Cameron Krone for Contributing Editor The toga, most renowned Roman EditorialOur Swords Photographer Cameron Krone Fashion Editor - Michael Bargo
  17. 17. EGYPT CRETEGREECE MYCENAE ROME
  18. 18. Edita Vilkeviciute and Anna Maria Jagodzinska by Craig McDeanEgypt Middle Kingdom- still transparent fabrics
  19. 19. Tilda Swinton by Craig McDean Tilda Swinton by Craig McDean Another Magazine Another Magazine Necklaces/collars Pleated tunics and skirts were made of fell into the fine lines geometrically arranged which not only emphasized natural material the cut of the garment but also cling to the body in fluid, pleated lin
  20. 20. Anna Maria,Viktoriya, Sessilee by Steven Meisel Hat headdress- inverted plant pot resembles a beret
  21. 21. Lakshmi Menon for Dazed and Confused magazine Royalties wear gold, civilian wears linen
  22. 22. MaxMara Spring 2009 Stola, outer tunic
  23. 23. Nicole Kidman by Steven MeiselGreek chiton; better draping,clung to the body and himation;small cloak-like garmentwww.trendnista.com
  24. 24. Madonna by Steven Klein Strophium, a bust bodice made of unstiffened fabric
  25. 25. Linda Evangelista by Steven Meisel Minoan flounce skirt
  26. 26. Claudia Rogge Design The Byzantinestended to be very modest about any display of flesh
  27. 27. R E P I E M N E T I A N Y ZB
  28. 28. Numero French Issue 99Magie Noire Photography Miguel Reveriego Styling Capucine Safyurtlu Model Jessica Stam
  29. 29. Gizia Magazine The purple dyeThe manufacturing of purple dye was a secret guarded by its imperial manufacturers
  30. 30. Kuroi The Byzantinestended to be very modest about any display of flesh Photographer Carlos Alsina Stylist Benat Yanci
  31. 31. Tilda Swinton by Craig McDeanAnother Magazine Empress Theodora for ceremonial purposes wore ropes of pearls
  32. 32. Valentino Haute Couture Collection 2009 Jewel-encrusted robe nguyen topoftheworld.blogspot.com
  33. 33. Linda Evangelista by Steven Meisel Paludamentum, or long cloak
  34. 34. Numero Editorial Sirene Photographer Steven Klein DalmaticaThe Byzantines added two changes to this basic form They enlarged the sleeves, making them large draping bell shapes, and they broadened the hem dramatically also into a bell shape, allowing the garment to hang in folds about the legs
  35. 35. Numero Editorial Sirene Stola Photographer Steven Klein The stola was part of a layered outfit It was worn over the top of a long underdress and a shorter tuniceither of which might have had long sleeves early stolas were sleeveless
  36. 36. Craig McDean for Another Magazine They layered their clothing
  37. 37. Genevieve for Cheek Magazine 2009Richer people in the 11th Century use softer furs such as mink
  38. 38. WESTERN EUROPE THROUGH11TH12TH13TH CENTURY
  39. 39. Rue Du Mail Fall 2009 Hoods
  40. 40. Christian Dior Haute Couture Barbarian Armour Fall Winter 2006
  41. 41. Daria Werbowy by Nathaniel Goldberg Fur usage
  42. 42. Daria Werbowy by Nathaniel GoldbergFeatured jagged-edge- slitting
  43. 43. Givenchy Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2009 Veil
  44. 44. Tilda Swinton by Craig McDean Another Magazine Hennin conical headdress from which trails as veil
  45. 45. Elene Sudakova by Solve Sundsbo Eleanor of Acquitanebought the flowing gown into fashion
  46. 46. Missoni Spring/Summer 2009 Ad CampaignHigh-waisted gown with decorative belt
  47. 47. Dazed and Confused February 2009 Editorial BrazilPreferance for a range of sartorial elements
  48. 48. Givenchy Spring/Summer 2009Ad Campaign The fashion for puffed sleeves
  49. 49. 15 THCENTURY
  50. 50. Numero Korea MagazineWide, shallow, scooped neckline replaced by a V-neck Photographer Mariano Vivanco
  51. 51. Sun GoddessUK Harpers BazaarJuly 2009Houppelande sleevesdaggered/cutinto scallops
  52. 52. Polina Kouklina by Peter Lindbergh Houppeland, an outer garment long and full body
  53. 53. Cos Spring/Summer 2009Chemise/smock, worn next to the skinEditorial Colour Me Carefully,Colours of SummerPhotographer Will VanderperreStylist Joe Mckenna
  54. 54. Linda Evangelista by Steven Meisel Verdugada/Verdugadogown with a bell-shaped hoop skirt with visible casings, stiffened with reeds in casingwhich would become the farthingale
  55. 55. The Evangelist for Prive Asia Winter 2008 FarthingalePhotographer Baldovino Barani Stylist Holly Suan Gray Make-Up Angie Pasley Model Elyse Sewell
  56. 56. Dior Homme Ad Campaign Spring/Summer 2009Slashing, to reveal a lining of undergarment beneath
  57. 57. Numero Editorial Sirene The decorative technique known as slashinginvolved making small cuts in the outer fabric of a garment so as to reveal the inner lining Photographer Steven Klein
  58. 58. Cate Blanchett by Annie Leibovitz for Vanity Fair, February 2009 Farthingale
  59. 59. Emma Watson by Karl Lagerfeld A common use of wire was to create a kind of dome above the forehead and to attach a linen cloth that flowed over theback of the head, revealing the hair beneath
  60. 60. 16 TH CENTURY
  61. 61. Jessica Stam by Solve SundsboSleevesan essential part of the wardrobeso they were made in the samerich fabrics as other garmentsincluding silk and velvetThey often had fancy lace or linen cuffsattached to the ends of the sleeves
  62. 62. Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2009 Mens,Milan Pumpkin breeches(for the lower body), padded to give them a particular shape
  63. 63. Emma Watson by Karl LagerfeldFancy aprons were trimmed out in decorative laceand might be embroidered with intricate patterns.Aprons attached at the waist with a tie
  64. 64. A Medici collar provided a large, decorative frame aroundthe sides and back of a woman’s head. The collar was typicallyworn with a gown with a decollete neckline, a low neckline that revealed a woman’s cleavage
  65. 65. Yasmin Warsame by Steven Meisel Bombast,absolutely essential for both mens and womens clothing. Form of stuffing-cotton, wool, horsehair, sawdust
  66. 66. Cate Blanchett by Annie Leibovitz Vanity Fair, February 2009 The Ruff,wide-pleated collar around the neck. Stiffened with starch/wiredstood out like a wheel around the neck
  67. 67. Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2009 Mens Milan Codpiece a flad porch sewn at the top of mans hose
  68. 68. Nick Rae by Dimitri Theocharis Periwig,essential item for mens fashion in the 16th Century
  69. 69. Javier Artiñano La Conjura Del Escorial jason The Ruff A wide pleated collar, often stiffemed
  70. 70. Stella Tennant by NathanielGoldberg Middle centuryhead wear [dutch women]
  71. 71. CENTURYTH17
  72. 72. Miss Shaped by Steven Meisel Light muffs might be made ofdouble layers of satin or velvet stuffed to provide insulation
  73. 73. Interview March 2009 Mary-Kate Olsen by Craig McDean Stomacher also provided an important decorative element to womens gownsThey were often covered in a fabric that contrasted with the rest of the bodice
  74. 74. Heidi KlumVogue Germany EditorialStomacher, most basic form. A long V- or U- shaped panelthat decorated the front of the bodice extending from neckline down to the waistPhotographer Claudia Knoepfel & Stefan Indlekofer
  75. 75. Vogue Devon Aoki falling band collar it fastened at the neck and drapedover the shoulder and might be plain
  76. 76. Hair Storm by Solve Sundsbo Fontange Curled or frizzed, women’s hair was worn swept up into high piles at the beginning of the century fluffed at the sides during mid-century, and againat the end of the century, worn quite tall, in towering fontange hairstyles Photographer Anja Frers Styling Marion Darimont Hair/Make-up Gabi Speckbacher
  77. 77. H & M Collection by Comme des Garcons For Amica hose, a precursor to knit stockings. Hose were made from a loosely woven fabric and they were cut on the bias, or diagonally, which allowed them to fit the legs snugly
  78. 78. state of grace Bustlesconsisted of various objects, including cushions, pads, and frames made of wire and wood, that were tied around the waist or directly attached to a woman’s skirts Photo by Mario Testino
  79. 79. West East Magazine The New Puritans Cravat SteinkerkTwist the ends of the cloth and stuck it through a buttonhole in their waistcoat or justacourps Photographer Baldovino Barani Styling Holly Suan Gray
  80. 80. Nicole Kidman by Steven Meisel falling band/collarMade of unstiffened silk or cambric a fine linen
  81. 81. The AppendixesHTTP://WWW.TRENDNISTA.COMHTTP://MEN.STYLE.COMhTTP://WWW.FASHIONENCYCLOPEDIA.COMHTTP://WWW.HAUTECOUTURESHOW.BLOG125.FC2.COMHTTP://WWW.ARTANDCOMMERCE.COM

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