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# Waves

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### Waves

1. 1. WAVES
2. 2. Waves  A wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space caused by the varying speeds of winds.  The crest is the highest point of a wave and a trough is the waves lowest point.  The distance between two adjacent crests equals a wavelength.  The height of a wave is the difference between the crest and the trough.  The amplitude of a wave is half of the waves height.
3. 3. ---
4. 4. FREQUENCY  The number of waves that pass a point in a certain amount of time. 
5. 5. Wave Size Depends on the strength of the wind and the length of time it blows. Gentle breeze = ripples Stronger winds = lager waves Wave size also depends on the distance over which the wind blows. Longer distance = Bigger wave
6. 6. Wave movement  Waves makes water appear to move forward, but unless the wave breaks onto a shore, all water returns close to its original spot after the wave passes.  Only the energy in the wave is moving forward not the water.  When a wave does crash onto a shore that wave is called a breaker. This collapsing of a wave is what propels a surfer back toward the shore.
7. 7. Tsunamis Not all waves get their energy from wind. Some like Tsunamis are caused by earthquakes beneath the ocean floor. Most common in the pacific Ocean striking Alaska, Hawaii and Japan
8. 8. Affects on Shore Longshore Drift Rip Current
9. 9. Longshore Drift  Water washes up the beach at an angle carrying sand grains  Water and sand then run back down the beach  Waves slow down and deposit sand on shallow underwater slope = SANDBAR
10. 10. RIP CURRENT  Sandbar traps water flowing along the shore  Some water breaks through the sandbar and flows back down the sloping ocean bottom.  The rush of water the flows back to sea is = RIP CURRENT
11. 11. WAVES & BEACH EROSION  Waves shape a beach by eroding the shore in some places and building it up in others. What protects from Erosion??  Barrier Beaches  Sand Dunes  Groins