2SilhouetteBroad padded squareshoulders, trim waist andhips, with shoulder lengthcurled hair.The 1940s silhouette from a1940 issue ofWoman, suggests thatwomen take into accounttheir real body shapes.
3Silhouette developed during firsthalf of the 1940s.
4BodiceFitted with drapery, ruching or gathers; padded shoulder.NecklineHigh round, sweetheart, small collars.Shoes
5SleevesInset, short or long, puff.SkirtKnee-length, flared, straight, single pleat plaid skirts.
6FabricWool, cotton, linen, easy-care synthetics.TrimmingsLimited buttons, contrast color collarsand cuffs, patch pockets.AccessoriesTiny hats, large bags, shoes with highthick heels and some wooden soles.
7ColorSubdued, blue grey, bottle green, donkey brown.
8The New Look On February 12, 1947, Christian Diorlaunched the first collection of the House of Dior. Thenew collection went down in fashion history as the"New Look". The signature shape was characterized by abelow-mid-calf length, full-skirt, pointed bust, smallwaist, and rounded shoulder line. Resisted atfirst, especially in America, where fashion magazinesshowed padded shoulders until 1950, the radical newsilhouette soon became immenselypopular, influencing fashion and other designers formany years to come. The "softness" of the New Look wasdeceptive; the curved jacket peplum shaped over ahigh, rounded, curved shoulders, and full skirt of Diorsclothes relied on an inner construction of newinterlining materials to shape the silhouette.
9 Continued… Throughout the post-war period, a tailored, feminine look wasprized and accessories such as gloves and pearls were popular. Tailored suits had fitted jackets with peplums, usually wornwith a long, narrow pencil skirt. Day dresses had fitted bodices and full skirts, with jewel orlow-cut necklines or Peter Pan collars. Shirtdresses, with a shirt-like bodice, were popular, as werehalter-top sundresses. Skirts were narrow or very full, held out with petticoats;poodle skirts were a brief fad. Evening gowns were often the same length as day dresses(called "ballerina length"), with full, frothy skirts. Cocktail dresses,were worn for early-evening parties. Short shrugs and bolero jackets, often made to match low-cut dresses, were worn.
10The Impact of World War II on Fashion One might say that women’s fashion of the 1940s were dictatedby Adolph Hitler. The German invasion of Poland in September 1939set the tone for everything that happened in the next decade. Andas fashion follows social trends and the events of the worldeconomy, World War II necessitated changes in clothing styles andfashion design.Pearl Harbor was bombed on December 7, 1941 by which timeGermany had invadedNorway, Denmark, Holland, Belgium, France, Yugoslavia, andGreece. The world was at war and haute couture took a back seat tothe privations of global conflict.
11 Continued… In order to supply the war effort, fabric was rationed. Nylonand wool were both needed by the military and Japanese silk wasbanned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbor. Rayon, the newsynthetic fabric developed in the 1930s became the material mostoften used for the creation of ladies clothing during the War. By June 1941, with Britain under attack by the Nazis, clothrationing resulted in a coupon system. Adults in Britain received 66clothing coupons per year, reduced to 36 coupons by 1945. Supplieswere limited and prices were high. Many governments placedrestrictions on the use of fabrics and other materials used to makeclothing as they were needed by the military.
12 Both Britain and the United States putofficial restrictions on the use of the materials usedin the production of garments. The L-85 Orderspecified the amount of fabric that could be usedto create a garment. Hems rose with fabricrestrictions. The order also restricted the number ofpleats and trimmings as well as jacket and trouserlengths. The metal used for zippers was needed bythe military and buttons were limited - useful only,not for ornamentation. Women brought up during the austerity ofthe Great depression made do by recycling,making coats and jackets out of old blankets.Winter wear moved away from the use of wool andincorporated velveteen and corduroy for coldweather suits and dresses. Less fabric meant lean styles, with narrowhip lines and a trim over all appearance. Short andboxy was the fashion style of the day, out ofnecessity.
13Other Fashion Aspects of the 1940s 1. Hair was worn long and curled at the ends for a soft, femininelook. Beauty salons can be expensive and women saved money byhaving their hair cut less often. As so many women enlisted in themilitary or took factory jobs, it was easy to tie long hair back for safety.Then, the long hair could be worn down for casual or dress occasions.Women often knit or crocheted snoods which were an attractivecombination of a hair net and a veil. 2. Girdles were out as the rubber was needed for the war effort.Skirts and dresses were often fitted with adjustable waistlines. But itwasnt hard to be thin when food was rationed. 3. The fabric used in the manufacturer of swim suits was alsoreduced causing the disappearance of the little skirt flap so popular onone piece suits. Fabric reduction was responsible for bare midriffs andthe introduction of the 2 piece swim suit. The bikini made its debut in1946.
14Continued… 4. Shoe heels were lower and shoe designers thought to addinterest with the introduction of the wedge shoe. Many women woreflat heeled shoes for safety and comfort in the workplace. T-straps andopen toed shoes looked lovely and saved on shoe leather. 5. Pants became a staple of women who worked in factories andsoon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear and for work athome in the garden. The actress Katherine Hepburn helped maketrousers a popular garment for women as she appeared in severalmovies wearing elegant, wide legged trousers. 6. Stockings formerly made of silk were made out of nylon but whenthe military began to use nylon, many women used tan make up ontheir legs and drew a line up the back to simulate seams. Bobby socksbecame popular among the younger set. 7. Shoulder pads became popular to highlight themasculine, military look. They also added an interest to the shape ofthe slim silhouette.
17 Christian Dior Christian Dior (21 January 1905 - 23October 1957) was a French fashiondesigner, best known as the founder of oneof the worlds top fashion houses, alsocalled Christian Dior. Christians family had hopes he wouldbecome a diplomat, but Dior was artisticand wished to be involved in fashion. Tomake money, he sold his fashion sketchesoutside his house for about 10 cents each.In 1928 after leaving school he receivedmoney from his father to finance a small artgallery, where he and a friend sold art bythe likes of Pablo Picasso.
18The Dior fashion house On 16 December 1946 Dior founded his fashion house, backed byMarcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric magnate. The actual name of theline of his first collection, presented in early 1947, was Corolle, but thephrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chiefof Harpers Bazaar. Diors designs were more voluptuous than theboxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War IIstyles, influenced by the rations on fabric. He was a master at creatingshapes and silhouettes; Dior is quoted as saying "I have designedflower women." His look employed fabrics lined predominantly withpercale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waistedcorsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from thewaist, giving his models a very curvaceous form.
19 Anne Klien Anne Klein (August 3, 1923 - March 19,1974) was an American fashion designerwho founded her own womens sportswearand apparel label. She married her first husband, BenKlein, in the early 1940s, and together theyfounded Junior Sophisticates – a clothingcompany which completely transformedthe clothing styles, choices, and attitudesof young American women. The companyrevolutionized the junior market, doingaway with the traditional "little-girl" clothingthat featured button-and-bow detailing,and addressing the primary need of thisimportant group—the desire to look morestylish, more polished, and, above all, moregrown up.
20Vera Maxwell Vera Huppe Maxwell (April 22, 1901–January 15, 1995) was a legendarysportswear and fashion designer. She was the first American designerto make clothes with Ultrasuede material.She won the Coty American FashionCritics Award in 1953, the Neiman MarcusAward in 1955 and was honored in 1970with a retrospective exhibition at theSmithsonian Institution in Washington. Maxwell became known as adesigner in the 1930s and becamefamous for her innovative designs. Afteryears of designing for othermanufacturers, she founded her owncompany, Vera Maxwell Originals, in 1947.