Fs10211 late 18th century notes


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Fs10211 late 18th century notes

  1. 1. FS10211: FASHION HISTORY 2 TEXT: CHAPTER 11: THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD: 1790–1820 LATE 18TH CENTURY (1790S)• During French Reign of Terror • MEN: What did they dress like?• Les lncroyables (M) (“incredible – Long disheveled hair (no powdered ones”) wigs) – English style, “anglophiles” – No triorne hats (more nondescript) – Adapt the riding coat (tailored)• Les Mervielleuse (W) (“marvelous • English were better tailors than the ones”) French due to wool (heavier – Neoclassical style material) vs. silk – Breeches – No more shoes, preferred boots• +5 bonus points (Midterm) (clunky, square-toed) – Find the connection for John • Not the streamline riding boot Galliano’s Dior 84 inspiration of the • Tassel on the front “hessian” Les Incroyables – “Pumps”—flat shoes for men • Tuxedo pump• James Madison is the 1st – Oversized carvats (not lacey)— president to wear long pants tied/wrapped around the neck higher – Dolly Madison (wife) was inspired by Josefine (Napoleon’s wife) – Walking stick “cane” (curved)
  2. 2. JOHN GALLIANO, “LES INCROYABLES” COLLECTIONhttp://designmuseum.org/desig http://www.fashioncollections.org/fn/john-galliano ashion-designers/john-galliano/• John Galliano has created the • His graduating collection was history most spectacular fashion making. ‘Les Incroyables’, was inspired by the French revolution, but as the shows of our time. Since his world would all grow to know and love 1984 degree collection, Les about the fabulous designer, it had the Incroyables, which ‘Galliano’ twist. This collection featured never before seen details such as metamorphosed his London upside down military jackets. This art school into a French collection impressed so many and he Revolutionary street scene, he was immediately put on the list of young designers to watch and to watch has transported his privileged out for. Joan Burstein, owner of audiences to more exotic and Browns, loved this debut collection so sartorially blessed places than much she purchased it in its entirety they could possibly have and displayed it in the window of her prestigious London boutique. imagined or experienced.
  3. 3. JOHN GALLIANO, “LES INCROYABLES” COLLECTION HTTP://FASHIONFIFTHAVENUE.BLOGSPOT.COM/2009/04/FASHION-IN-FLASHBACK-JOHN-GALLIANOS.HTML• While it is common knowledge that Les Incroyables was John Gallianos graduation collection(shown in July 1984), what is less known is the continued influence that the Incroyables had on all his subsequent collections and more so on his next one namely "Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals".An understanding of this collection cannot be made without dissecting the Incroyables, who they were, what they stood for and why they were important to fashion.• The French revolution and subsequent Reign of Terror that followed i.e a period from 1789 to 1799, led to renunciation of all forms of elaborate and luxurious dressing, for fear of being executed as a sympathiser of aristocracy.The men of the period clothed themselves in long jackets and leather boots(the style borrowed from Britain) and the women in simple robes like long flowing tunics and gowns similar to one worn by ancient Greeks.• "Les Incroyables(theIncredibles) et les Merveilleuses(the Marvelous Women)" were a collective group of young people known for their outlandish ways of dressing, who rose to prominence during the period of the French Revolution after the Reign of Terror , their exaggerated and luxurious styles in response to the sober sadness that the terror had spread.They were also called "muscadins" due to the enormous quantities of musk perfume that they wore.It wasnt certain whether in dressing the way they did, they mocked the royalty for their opulence or the bourgeois for their simplicity!! This is the exact disparity that John Galliano had brought out in his "Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals", playfully dressing up his modern Incroyables in what he thought the Afghans(or the East) would wear to mock the West!!• The Incroyables dressed themselves in a cartoon version of the English country suit comprising of skin tight pants, extremely short vests topped with a coat made so long its wide flared tails reached the ankles. The coat sleeves were long enough to completely cover the hands and the lapels too were very large. The front of the coat was cut to look uneven when buttoned and the back was bunched in folds. The coats collar stood up high at the back behind the head, and a huge cravat, or neck covering, was wrapped so high around the neck that it covered the chin and mouth. The Incroyables powdered their hair, which was either dressed in multiple braids or cut raggedly(like the guillotined victims), hanging long and shaggy on the sides of their heads, in a style called "dogs ears" and cropped short at the back.
  6. 6. Women: How did they dress? Late 18th Century• Robe en chimise • Victim Bulls—people that – Sheer muslin, requires no survived the revolution corset, possible sash under – Chokers—red ribbon to bosom commemorate the dead – “empire” waistline • Empress of Fashion— – Bare-legged and no heeled Josefine (Napoleon’s wife) shoe – Before: Marie Antoinette • Wore sandals (Roman- Greek inspired) – Naturally curly hair, not colored – Jockey hats tied under the chin
  7. 7. 1800-1820 Fashions Empire(French) & Regency (English)• Regency Period – The in between time of newly appointed king• Men – No more wigs, natural hair – Bicorne hat (crescent) • 2-cornered hat • Usually by miitary – Top hat – Tailored cutaway • Close to the body—with tails – Trousers – Pantaloon (fitting) • Stirrup under instep of foot
  8. 8. Early 19th Century (Women)• Simplified and streamline • Wet down muslin dresses – Similar silhouettes – Clings to body and shows • French—white muslin figure, exhibitionism • English—delicate floral muslin – Resembled folds of statues• Flat heelless sandals (Neoclassical style)• Color of shawl – Caused sickness of upper respiratory infections (“The Muslin – Had basic motifs and patterns Disease”) (paisley) • Indian inspired • Accessories – And the way the bow was tied – Loved to carry things around • Little pouch “reticule” (handbag)• Favorite fabric: Cashmere – Turbans/turban hats – From Kashmir – Bonnets – Goats are the main source until – Parasols Napoleon got into war (difficult trade) – Ostrich plumes – Scotland—mountainous—goats— – Fan and gloves copied paisley motif – Large muffs
  9. 9. Regency Period• Fashion icon of the time: • “Beau” Brummell “Beau” Brummell – Gloves “The Glover” – The ultimate dandy – Carvat – Witty and sarcastic – Black coat with bottle green – Streamline fashion pantaloons/trousers – Modern day “Metrosexual” – Navy jacket (cutaway) with – Friends with the Prince and red waistcoat attended parties to help men – No to wild colors dress – Best tailors in London—he – Hygiene—take milk baths hung out with the prince• Lord Spencer • Men wore a sort-of corset – Women adapted “the – “Man corset” Spencer” (high-waisted jacket)
  10. 10. “Beau” Brummell