Bluesign Innovation For Extremes 06.05.2009
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Bluesign Innovation For Extremes 06.05.2009

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Detlef Fischer Bluesign Presentation Innov_Ex 09

Detlef Fischer Bluesign Presentation Innov_Ex 09

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Bluesign Innovation For Extremes 06.05.2009 Bluesign Innovation For Extremes 06.05.2009 Presentation Transcript

  •  
    • Introduction
    • Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
    • The bluesign ® standard creates transparency
    • Industry challenges – resource management
    Agenda for today
    • Introduction
    • Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
    • The bluesign ® standard creates transparency
    • Industry challenges – resource management
    Part 1
  • bluesign technologies ag The company
      • Founded in 2000, based in St.Gallen, Switzerland (EMPA building)
      • Emerged from a project with Schoeller Textil, Nike and Huntsman
      • Development of “Supply Chain Tools” for the textile and related industry
      • Recognized by leading chemical companies such as Huntsman, Clariant, DyStar, CHT-Group, etc.
      • Supported by Patagonia, MEC, The North Face, VAUDE, Helly Hansen, Eileen Fisher, Haglöfs, R.E.I. etc.
      • SGS as shareholder since July 2008
  • bluesign technologies ag
    • Vision: “One world – one standard”
    • Bringing together the entire textile manufacturing chain to jointly reduce the environmental footprint of the textile industry
    Goal bluesign ® standard Textile manu- facturers Fibre manu- facturers Chemical Suppliers Brands & Retailers
    • Introduction
    • Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
    • The bluesign ® standard creates transparency
    • Industry challenges – resource management
    Part 2
  • Retailer/Brand situation Strict control mechanism in the supply chain Consumers assume that retailers are managing all risks (EHS, ethical) on their behalf
    • Just one case of allergy or health issue in the public is enough to put the brand at risk
      • Restoring a damaged reputation
      • is extremely costly
    "Brand Protection" Consequence Brand
    • Customer loyalty
    • People wear it
    • (often next to skin)
    • People identify with it
    • Emotional binding
    • Customer requirements
    • A safe product
    • An environmentally friendly product
    • A sustainable product
  • What happened in the last 20 years?
  • Current “ECO” approaches …
    • Eco labels
    … the Solution? Restricted Substance Lists (RSL)
  • Analyses show
      • MAK-Amines
      • PVC & Phthalates
      • APEO
      • Heavy Metals
      • PFOA and PFOS
      • Sensitizing dyes
      • Toxic solvents
      • Other toxic substances
    Harmful substances in textile products!
  • Approach by brands and retailers
    • Fact: Still a growing number of “problems”
    • Sourcing in locations with unknown EHS standards
    • Chemical industry can‘t handle increasing number of RSLs
    • EHS data of chemical components are often not available
    • In many cases, the decision maker at the manufacturing level does not possess the necessary chemical and toxicological know-how
    • Uncertainty through “new” problem substances e.g. PFOA / PFOS
    Unsatisfying implementation of RSLs
  • Practical experience Finding It is not possible to run a business based on analytical testing!
  • Practical experience
    • Recent European ECLIPS study shows:
      • Many MSDS are of generally poor quality
      • Large amount of products and substances not classified correctly
      • Much of important information not available
      • Implementation of EU-Directive deficient in 69%
    Material Safety Data Sheet l
  • Practical experience
    • MSDS from company with high EHS-Standards:
      • Written for environmental chemistry specialists and toxicologists
      • Interpretation complicated
      • For decision maker in the production difficult to implement
    Material Safety Data Sheet ll
  • Practical experience
    • MSDS of insufficient quality:
      • Data content doesn’t allow interpretation for end product
      • Often simply no data or inaccurate data available
      • Problem substances listed in RSLs are often not mentioned
    Material Safety Data Sheet lll
  • If You Don’t Know, You Don’t Care! Consequence Practical experience
  • Part 3
    • Introduction
    • Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
    • The bluesign ® standard creates transparency
    • Industry challenges – resource management
      • Environment
      • Health
      • Safety
      • Resource productivity
    The bluesign ® standard Worldwide industry standard
  • EHS Aspects … … in textile production work place ground-water contamination Soil contamination NO x CO 2 UFP‘s CH 4 SO 2 waste water waste products emission noise water raw material energy
  •  
  • Conventional approach Focus on end-product End-product Brands need more information Textile production chain Blackbox STOP
  • bluesign ® approach bluesign ® standard Input Process / Technology Focus on input streams End-product Textile production chain Blackbox Monitoring & Optimisation STOP STOP
  • Input stream management The five pillars of the bluesign ® standard Over 600 restricted and banned substances are monitored within the bluesign ® standard
      • Use of eco-efficient products = to achieve best performance with optimized resource consumption and minimum air and water emissions
      • Ecological footprint: minimized energy and material input per kg of textile product
    Input stream management Resource productivity
      • Carcinogenic substances
      • Mutagenic substances
      • Neurotoxic substances
      • Endocrine substances
      • Sensitizing and irritating substances
      • And others
    Input stream management Consumer safety
      • Emission factor (e-factor)
      • Substance emission factor (s-factor)
      • Recipe calculation based on e-factors leads to VOC optimisation
    Input stream management Air emission
  • Input stream management
      • Biodegradability, bioelimination
      • Fish-, bacteria-, daphnia-, algae toxicity
      • COD, BOD, TOC
      • AOX
      • Aliphatic hydrocarbons, sulfate, phosphate a.o.
      • ARS according TEGEWA Class I-III
      • Heavy metals
      • And others
    Water emission
    • Consideration of several relevant exposure scenarios:
      • Evaporation at large surfaces at stenter, printing and coating applications
      • Handling at the dyeing machine at high temperatures (batching tank)
      • Handling of almost empty barrel
    Input stream management Occupational health and safety
  • Input stream management Rating based on ecotoxicological data blue : All foreseeable applications within the bluesign ® standard grey : Can be used for “Performance Products” under conditions provided by “Best Available Technology” – as long as consumer safety is not compromised black : Usage ban Component categorization Rating Definition of applications (A) (B) (C)
  • Input stream management
    • Tackle the root of the problem:
      • Clean components lead to clean products
      • and reduce environmental impact
    Holistic approach
  • The bluesign ® standard in summary Qualitative comparison Focus on Consumer Safety Focus on Environment Market Penetration Focus on Resources & Processes Eco-Labels EU Eco Flower GOTS bluefinder™ bluesign ® standard Various RSLs
    • Various “Restricted Substance Lists”
      • Nike, Levi’s, New Balance, R.E.I., Columbia, adidas, PUMA, H&M, C&A, M&S, IKEA, Coats and others
    • REACH
      • Concentration of „Substances of Very High Concern“ (SVHC) in bluesign ® approved fabrics is smaller than 0.1%
        • No reporting requirement according to article 33 REACH
        • Notification according to article 2 REACH does not apply
      • Current list of SVHC on ECHA website http:// echa.europa.eu/chem_data/candidate_list_table_en.asp
    The bluesign ® standard in summary Manufacturers fulfill the following guidelines
  • Tools – chemical industry
    • Evaluation – Rating – Registration of commercially available chemical products
    • Translates the specialist knowledge of chemists and toxicologists into the language of the user
    • EHS-specialists of the chemical industry can register their products online on their own
    • Easy to use
    bluetool™
  • Tools – textile manufacturers
    • Screening Agreement and NDA
    • Preparative steps – data collection
    • On-site verification
    • Compatibility with bluesign ® standard
    • Report with recommendations and “roadmap”
    bluesign ® screening Phase 1: Screening Phase 2: Implementation
    • System Partner Agreement
    • Implementation of recommendations
    • Analytics per range – Certificate
    • Re-screening
  • Tools – textile manufacturers
    • Selecting products for new applications
    • Easily find alternatives for existing applications
    • Innovation security – new products are safe from the beginning
    • Online tool – accessible anytime, anywhere
    • Growing database
    • With these products RSLs and SVHC requirements are met
    bluefinder™
  • Tools – brands and retailer
    • Database including ecological and toxicological data of chemical substances relevant for textiles
    • Access to currently issued certificates
    • Overview of manufacturers:
      • in screening process
      • in implementation phase
      • with certified products
    • Manufacturers with access to the bluefinder™
    blueguide™ (in development)
    • Introduction
    • Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
    • The bluesign ® standard creates transparency
    • Industry challenges – resource management
    Part 4
  •  
  • Environmental Impacts … … of the textile industry
    • Chemicals
      • 25% of the chemicals produced worldwide are used directly or indirectly for textiles (Source: Greenpeace Germany)
      • » Environmental impact
    • Energy
      • High energy consumption in production, transport, retail and use
      • » Contribution to global warming (CO 2 )
      • Growing of cotton: 4,000 – 30,000 l / kg cotton
      • Finishing of textiles: up to 700 l freshwater / kg textile
      • Waste water in production: up to 600 l / kg textile
      • Use of water for a large brand – 1,200 small lakes or
      • 43,000 Olympic-size swimming pools per annum
      • » Mostly drinking water quality
    Water
  • Resource management Motivation for Manufacturers Resource savings help to keep costs down by potentially reducing chemicals, water and energy using existing equipment… … not dependent on capital investment!
  • Resource management
    • Resource inflation components (ric i ):
    • Electrical Energy ric 1
    • Water ric 2
    • Base Chemicals ric 3
    • Additives ric 4
    • Calorific Energy ric 5
    • Resource inflation components:
    • Resource inflation factor: rif = 2.01
    Resource inflation factor ric i = 1.0 1.55 1.0 1.77 1.0 2.24 1.0 1.67 1.0 2.61 BAT current
  • Resource management Cost inflation factor Total = 2.01 Electrical energy = 1.55 Water = 1.77 Base chemicals = 2.24 Additives = 1.67 Calorific energy = 2.61 Resource Inflation (rif): Cost Inflation (cif): Total = 2.09
  • Resource management Overview of the production process BAT 897’000 € Cost savings 2.09 cif 0.015 €/kWh 1.1 €/kg 0.45 €/kg 2 €/m 3 0.07 €/kWh Cost 2.01 rif
  • Resource management Convergence to BAT Resource Inflation Factor (rif) Cost Inflation Factor (cif) Initial-Screening Optimum 0 1 2 3 1 1. Re-Screening 2. Re-Screening 2.5 1.75
  • bluesign ® screening
      • Rating of all components in use
      • Monitoring of processes
      • Data acquisition and balancing of resources
      • Screening report with recommendations considering the current local situation
      • Indication of resources and cost saving potentials compared to “Best Available Technology”
    Full factory analysis
  • bluesign ® screening
      • Transparency in the production
      • Breaking down complex EHS-issues to a manageable level
      • Solution oriented
      • Compliance with all common RSLs and meeting SVHC requirements
      • “ Insurance” for manufacturers, retailers and brands
    Outcome
  • The bluesign ® standard
    • Consumer Safety
    • Only approved components low on harmful substances are used
    • Conserving Resources Minimized resource consumption leads to a sustainable product
    • High-tech and Comfort No compromise in functionality, quality or design
    Developed in Switzerland
  • The bluesign ® standard … … trademark strategy Semi Finished Product Components
    • Chemical comp.
    • Accessories
    • Yarns
    Final Product Labels Hang Tags
  • Thank you bluesign technologies ag EMPA Building Lerchenfeldstrasse 5 CH-9014 St. Gallen Fon +41 (0) 71 272 29 90 Fax +41 (0) 71 272 29 99 [email_address] www.bluesign.com
  • bluesign ® system partner
      • Huntsman, Switzerland
      • Clariant, Switzerland
      • DyStar, Germany
      • ERBA, Switzerland
      • Granger‘s, UK
      • SANITIZED, Switzerland
      • Sympatex, Germany
      • CHT/BEZEMA, Germany
      • Asahi Glass, Japan
      • Mahlo, Germany
      • Benninger, Switzerland
      • Polygiene, Sweden
    Supporter
  • bluesign ® system partner
      • Hong Kong Textiles, Hong Kong
      • G-FUN Industrial, Taiwan
      • Utermost Dyeing & Finishing, Taiwan
      • Paltex, Taiwan
      • Ho Chien Enterprise, Taiwan
      • Youngone, Korea
      • Grand Textile, Taiwan
      • Fortune Spring, Taiwan
      • Fabricoat, Taiwan
    Manufacturers in screening process
  • bluesign ® system partner
      • Polartec, USA
      • FILÓ, Brazil
      • M.I.T.I., Italy
      • Bischoff Gamma, Thailand
      • Guan Lin / Synnix Technology, Taiwan
    Manufacturers in implementation phase
  • bluesign ® system partner
      • Schoeller Textil, Switzerland
      • Eschler, Switzerland
      • Formosa Taffeta, Taiwan
      • Getzner, Austria
      • Everest Textile, Taiwan
      • Schoeller Wool, Austria
      • Lauffenmühle, Germany
      • Singtex, Taiwan
      • HOYU, Taiwan
      • Kingwhale, Taiwan
      • Trueway, Taiwan
      • Sunny Textile, Taiwan
      • and others
    Manufacturers with certified products
  • bluesign ® member
      • Patagonia, USA
      • Mountain Equipment CO-OP, Canada
      • The North Face, USA
      • VAUDE Sports, Germany
      • Helly Hansen, Norway
      • Eileen Fisher, USA
      • Haglöfs, Sweden
      • Jako-O, Germany
      • R.E.I., USA
      • Deuter, Germany
    Brands and retailers