Low Itu Ok[1]


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The Finland issue of Under the influence.
Graphic design by Xavier Encinas.

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Low Itu Ok[1]

  1. 1. «Puhumatta para !»
  2. 2. EDITO- UNDER THE INFLUENCE THE FINLAND ISSUE - WINTER 2008/09 - Publisher UNDER THE INFLUENCE PUBLISHING LTD. publishing@undertheinfluencemagazine.com Creative Director/Editor Mark O’Sullivan mark@undertheinfluencemagazine.com RIAL Art Director/Editor Susan Connie Marsh susan@undertheinfluencemagazine.com Photo Editor Edward Lane eddy@undertheinfluencemagazine.com Graphic Designer Xavier Encinas xavier@undertheinfluencemagazine.com Advertising advertising@undertheinfluencemagazine.com Editorial Director Sarah Hay Copy Editor Laetitia Queyranne Writers Pihla Hintikka Oliver Farry Bryony Harris MGD Lahiffe Stylist Sandrine Goncalvès Benoît Masbonson Ayako Iijima Katie Burnett Amanda Ericsson -3- Photographers Mark O’Sullivan Only thirty two years before the birth of Nokia, in eighteen thirty five, the Edward Lane undoubtedly influential first edition of the Kalevala was compiled and Susan Connie Marsh edited by Elias Lönnrot from ancient folk and oral poetry he had collected Raul Diaz Hanna-Kaisa Korolainen throughout Finland and Karelia, thus creating Finland’s definitive epic. Christophe Pérez This fascinating poem crafted around the mysteries of nature, the origin Sanna Saastamoinen-Barrois of all things that be, the enigmas of human tears, embodies the entire Jussi Saastamoinen wisdom and accumulated experience of a nation. The Kalevala had a Jeremy Barrois deep everlasting impact in bolstering the Finn’s confidence and faith in Emanuele Fontanesi Finnish fashion pioneer Ritta Immonen’s passing away last august the possibilities of their language and culture, even more so than the Typography came after our decision to explore Finland as the inspiration behind Beowulf song in the anglo-saxon countries, the founding act of finnish Futura Std the winter issue of Under the Influence. We felt it was only right to touch identity as well as the start of a national awakening process known upon her role in Finnish fashion, the collaborations the brand she co- as the Karelianism vogue. Nokia might just be the notch of pride that Printing founded continues to nurture with local designers and artists, as well as topped it all. Grafix.pl prominent aspects of the country’s history, culture and mindset. Press With an ever increasing surface of a seven square kilometers a year KDpresse.com Indeed, the “grand old lady’s” Marimekko brand helped to bring growing rate and an extreme and often unforgiving climate, it is no “national” design to a worldwide audience through her boldly patterned wonder nature has such a great impact on every aspect of the people’s Distribution exportpress.com cotton clothes - Spring/summer 09 will see the premiere of British based, shape of mind and spirit. Nature is there, it is strong. It IS. The incessant half Finnish illustrator Sanna Annukka’s collection for the brand. Another brightness of the summer light and contrasting perpetual darkness example of the vitality of the brand is controversial Finnish artist Miina of the cold winter experienced in the far north is as unforgiving as Thanks to Äkkijyrkkä’s successful ongoing collaboration with Marimekko to bring omnipresent. That’s maybe why the Finn’s needed a sweeter folklore Family and her work to a wider audience. with the moomins, a new little world that would serve as a gentler Friends postcard in order to reach out to the expanding modern world. Another well documented Finnish success story is that of Nokia, the powerful industrial conglomerate which started out in eighteen sixty In effect, when looking closely at some of this fashion season’s most ISSN - 1759-121X striking moments, one might find finnish folk art and design pattern seven as a paper mill on the banks of the Nokianvirta, went on to Printed in Poland produce a century later the brightly colored ‘Kontio’ rubber boot traces as well as kinship with the sami’s reindeer fur clothing. The John before becoming what we came to recognize as one of today’s biggest Galliano autumn/winter 08 collection is a perfect illustration of this, worldwide communication networks, thus setting a huge contrast with moreover when you consider the resemblance its quirky make-up and what might be pictured as the local way of life. Finnish people indeed hairstyle bears with the colours found in Sanna Annukka’s Kalevela live in a land of marshes and mountains, lakes and rivers, seas, gulfs, inspired maidens. Whether conscious or not, these nods to the sami islands and inlets inhabited with trolls, hunters and legends. This lush herders and their bright bold outfits hold the promise of a rising trend but often harsh natural environment has bred a long tradition of folklore rooted in the most specific aspects of Finland’s heritage. which started out in the earliest age of Suomi with the worshiping of With designers such as Marimekko, Ivana Helsinki and Iittala enjoying even the least conspicuous elements of nature, your regular animist success on an international level, our aim was to reach for the roots of society, almost in the same fashion as Japan. The Sun, Moon, Stars, Finland as our source of inspiration for us to commission and produce Earth, Air and Sea were to the ancient finns living self-conscious beings, new works influenced by the folk, fairytales, colors and contradictions when not gods. Then came the moomins, but that’s a different story… of the Finnish landscape and spirit.
  3. 3. SUOMI/Finland
  4. 4. Photographer - Edward Lane Stylist - Sandrine Goncalvès Make-up - Akiko Sakamoto Hair - Ramona Eschbach O O O KINGS NORDIC------
  5. 5. - 10 - - 11 - Previous page: Dress Dries Van Noten, Scarf Paule Ka, Jewellery Maison Martin Margiela. Left page: Dress Dries Van Noten, Jacket Ines & Marechal, Belt Maison Martin Margiela, Boots Pierre Hardy. Right page: Dress & mittens Paule Ka, Hood Christian Lacroix, Necklace Moutoncollet, Tights Maison Martin Margiela.
  6. 6. - 12 - - 13 - Dress Xuan Thu Nguyen, Necklace Dorothee Simonnet. Cardigan & Necklace Dries Van Noten, Dress Josep Font.
  7. 7. - 14 - O Coat Dries Van Noten.
  8. 8. - 16 - - 17 - Cape Sylvia Rielle, Top Christian Lacroix, Boots Pierre Hardy, Bag Maison Martin Margiela. Top & Sleeves Maison Martin Margiela, Pants Wolford, Necklace Helene Zubeldia.
  9. 9. - 18 - - 19 - Trousers & Shoes Maison Martin Margiela, Belt Soaz.
  10. 10. - 20 - - 21 - Top Jean Luc Amsler, Jacket Dries Van Noten, Neckalce Moutoncollet, Ring & bracelet Soaz, Pants Wolford. Same as previous page.
  11. 11. - 22 - - 23 - Dress Paule Ka, Scraf Dries Van Noten.
  12. 12. III. The tacky old express train seat feels safer than the pendolino one and I can’t help picturing Eeva running after cows and away from goblins right here only sixty years ago. Hiitola is no longer part of Finland. The eastern Karelia of the Maiden of Finland ceded to Russia in the Winter War. Karelia is never forgotten in politics but how many people remember the area in general? Does anybody go there anymore? Suddenly my computer makes a weird noise. I try pushing the buttons, nothing. Battery checked. Wire checked. Electricity! I swear out loud and seek for sympathy. Communal complaining anyone? In a surprise move, people are smiling. A gap-toothed man behind my seat hands me a strawberry. A young blond nerdy hick asks with a wide accent if I need help. I have a sudden flash back of a zombie movie. Are they drunk? High? Mental? No, they are simply friendly. Welcome to Savo, Eastern Finland. Next to me a family, wearing matching Marimekko striped t-shirts, are eating Karelian pies, hard rye crust filled with rice pudding. It takes a long time and patience to make them, but in the end it’s worth it. An allegory of a Finn. After passing Pieksämäki, the unhappiest town in Finland voted by the public for many years now, the contradiction of this part of Finland is in your face. The nickname Land of a Thousand Lakes derives from here. The landscape is absolutely beautiful with glittering water and branches swinging in the wind. Joyful and friendly people who haven’t heard of the words stress, burn out, nor MADE hurry. Or maybe it just seems like it. Rather than happiness, unemployment, alienation and high suicidal rates are characteristic of this area. Finland is the only country in Europe in which anti-depressants are the most popular medicine sold. The lighter it seems, the darker it gets. One precautionary provision is always there to help and hinder a Finn. The plague is called alcohol. Story by IV. In the restaurant wagon many happy passengers have red noses already. A couple of older lads are laughing their hearts out with their pints of Lapin Kulta. Young art student girls with big wooden pearls around their necks giggle and Pihla gulp dry ciders. A stiff lady sitting straight, with a silky Marja Kurki scarf, is eating meatballs and mashed potatoes with a plastic fork. In one corner a smelly hillbilly sings the Finnish national anthem and toasts himself repeatedly. I sit by the window by myself and guzzle my beer. Here we are, the miniature Finland Hintikka packed in one wagon sitting next to and talking to each other without a problem. It’s like in the sauna. Finns are losing their inhibition of talking. In a cruise boat on the Baltic Sea they loose it all. A short guy wearing a four-cornered hat is winking at me. Oh please shoot me. IN - 24 - I. He’s moving closer. – I own reindeers, he says with pride and sits in front of me. - 25 - This must be a) a hidden camera show b) a new reality TV-show or c) a horribly Helsinki train station at noon. It’s a Friday in July and the sun will be up for tacky bachelor party. – And some huskies, if you ever want to come for a ride nineteen hours today. Two pairs of statues hold the spherical lamps on either some day, he adds. I can’t help but ask him if he’s serious. And he definitely side of the main entrance designed by Eliel Saarinen. I’m taking a good look at is. According to his ID, Erkki is a 31 year old fellow born in Inari who each the art nouveau genius’ work when the smell brings me back to reality. – Don’t autumn takes part in a reindeer roundups near Rovaniemi, the city of the two believe what they say about us, a staggering man whispers, raises his eyebrows most famous Finns, Santa Claus and Lordi. and offers me a sip from his bottle of black Salmiakki booze. I pass. But the guy What is a genuine Lapp doing in eastern Finland? To my surprise he tells me he has a point. What is a Finn made of? spent the week in Helsinki teaching Sami to linguistic students in a university. Track eight. About a hundred passengers are already standing next to an empty Overwhelmed I try to make a joke about his hat. C’mon, nobody wears a track, staring quietly in the direction of travel like robots. No one is talking. I try four-cornered hat below Oulu, or even there for that matter. – I’m proud of my to scan what’s happening, nothing, of course. This is a country where people background. Kippis! And just like that Erkki, one of the rare 3000 who speak plan everything in advance. You rarely see a Finn running to a train at the Sami, a dying language, as their mother tongue and who actually still makes a last minute let alone missing it. When the French deal with a leaking pipe it’s living out of reindeer, is gone. already causing water damage, a Finn would never have allowed the pipe to The joke is on me. I feel incredibly ridiculous with my Ivana Helsinki dress and leak. Precaution is the key, for better or worse. I’ve even seen a Finn marking a high heels. I want to go to the bathroom and wash my face, put on rubber hangover down on a calendar. I gobble up raw peas, a Finnish summer goodie, boots, a threadbare t-shirt and baggy trousers, wear a scarf in my hair and sit and join staring. in a hammock, pick blueberries and breath the fresh air. The further away from FIN- The white and blue clinical looking wagon is in chaos for a minute. Everyone Helsinki you go, the more exposed you feel. And little by little it starts to feel wants to find their place at the same time. Passengers get welcomed abord the good. It feels like home. train in Finnish, Swedish and English. Stiff businessmen push the buttons of their V. hi-fi laptops, some stare out the window. Nobody smiles nor talks. Kids fingering their mobile phones are desperately trying to look as hip-hop as their idol, 50 The phone rings. My brother wants to know if he should make me a birch switch Cent. I ask the lady behind me if it’s ok to recline the seat a bit further. I guess for the sauna tonight. While staring at the lakes rolling by outside, I wish I were stiffening and looking away equals yes. in the heat already, by the lake of our summer cottage, naked, dipping into the Outside tall yellow houses begin to change to yellow crops surrounded by thick water, under the glowing sun that doesn’t go down until 11 pm. I want to be dark green pine forests. Here and there you get a glimpse of a wooden red throwing more water onto the heater where a sauna elf sits guarding the spirit house and black and white cows. As soon as the landscape changes to grey, you of traditional place. know you’re in the city of Lahti. Businessmen step out. The train to Kuopio through – He’s an elf, a guy whispers in my ear and bursts out laughing so that I almost Eastern Finland takes about five hours. I lay my head and close my eyes. spill my beer. I beg your pardon? Timo is a friend of Erkki’s and according to him II. the reindeer caretaker is also working part-time as an elf in Santa Claus’ office in the capital of Lapland, Rovaniemi. I see. This is a work trip to Saint Petersburg, Mikkeli – St. Michel. The conductor comes and demands us to leave the train. then to Tallinn to bring as much booze as possible back to Finland. – Watch out, Apparently Finland’s pride, the fanciest and fastest pendolino train has some he might be under your window next Christmas if you don’t behave well enough, technical problems, as usual. Old rusty express one is picking us up. It seems Timo prattles with a wide smile and for a while I believe him. that I’m the only one who’s irritated even a bit. Other passengers shake their LAND Photographs - Sanna Saastamoinen-Barrois heads, but kindly get up and step outside. No making a scene, no swearing, –We will shortly arrive in Kuopio. Thank you for traveling with us and welcome no raising your voice, no I want my money back. But Finns obey only in front aboard again, the official tape announces. I gather my belongings, say good of authority. Outside on the platform the art of Finnish communication begins: bye to the elves and jump out of the train. I breathe my lungs full of the fresh communal complaining. How can they do that? I need to be at home on time. summer night air and head to the sauna. We should file an appeal. I participate with one of my favorite lines of the genre: VI. I hate pendolinos. People nod with sympathy. An old Finnish lady turns to me and asks: – Which city are you from? After a relaxing weekend in the summer cottage, built by my grandfather himself, Eeva, a Finn turned Canadian with curly gray hair and lightly slanted eyes, I feel I have energy to once again face the urban life in Helsinki. Lau Nau is begins telling me how she’s going to meet her grandchildren she hasn’t seen in singing to my ears: I’m of the sea, I’m of the sun. In two ways, staying from a ages. Toronto called her at the age of sixteen, during the Second World War. He place. The railway station is full of noises, Greenpeace volunteers try to persuade was half Canadian, half German and they decided to get away. – You see that people to join them and there’s always a baby crying somewhere. I walk through rock over there? She points to the forest next to the light blue wooden station. – I the lobby to the main gate and bump into at least five people. know who put it there, she adds and nods convincingly. I’m starting to wonder When waiting for the 3T tram I can smell Chanel. A girl with white graphic if I’ve met a psychic. hair and bright red lipstick is checking her phone with one hand and smoking – The goblin from my hometown Hiitola has been here. Ok, just a mental case, or a Vogue with another. Her legs are covered with flower print leggings and the maybe not. She tells me a long story of a malicious goblin called Hiisi who lives black Iloa dress is fantastic. in the Finnish forest. Beardless, ugly Hiisi is always dressed as a scoundrel and is She might be a graphic designer or fashion assistant but inside, she’s a berry found near ominous crevasses, large boulders and other amazing geographical picker. She’s probably heading to the trendy bar Erottaja and is going to drink features. some glasses of fair-trade red wine from South Africa and sing along to Le Corps –When we were evacuated from our home because of the war, my family took Mince de Francoise’s “Cool and Bored”, but she knows how it feels to sit in a all the cows and goats to the train. I remember guarding them while staring hammock and ride a bike to school when it’s minus 25 degrees. She knows how outside, looking at the woods terrified that I could see Hiisis travelling in a noisy it feels when the first snowflakes of winter are falling down. She remembers the procession, attacking people who did not give way to them. I knew we’d have first spring day. to get away from the woods, to the cultivated area where the Hiisi would never The girl probably takes trips to Berlin, Paris and New York every now and then step foot. Then I saw a big boulder and I thought I was going to die. But I never but secretly she wishes she had time to make lingonberry juice herself and see did. Not yet. Eeva giggles and before I have the chance to say anything, she’s the Northern Lights more often. Urbanism is only a mask. A Finn is always, and already wishing me a good trip and jumping into the old rusty express train. A will never cease to be, a forest-dweller inside. corner of Kalevala by Elias Lönnrot is popping out of her bag.
  13. 13. W PH O TO ST G TH A YL RA IS PH T Y M - K ER AK A - K E- TIE AT H UP BU JA AI - R H R NI NE EN - C T T E B M SHI HO T A SC O N LA T H DE YA W EL L - F HA W VE UK MI W RO AM LTO .KA N I N TIE IK BU SU E A RN AT O ET T.C XY G O LO EN .U M K O DE LS RF A W C E Pu rp le an d G ol d Ja ck et Sc ot tR am sa y Ky le ,P ur p le bo tto m sS pi jk e rs en Sp ijk e rs .
  14. 14. - 28 - C ol la rS pi ke rs en Sp ik er s, C ap e sle ev e to p Bu dd hi st pu nk ,S ki rt Sp ijk er s en Sp ijk er s. H at N ok i,T op Sp i jk er se n Sp ijk er s, W hi te ca pe St yl ist ’s ow n. - 29 -
  15. 15. - 30 - Dr es sD isa ya at H ar ve y N ic ho ls. C ol la r, bo d y su it an d sh or ts Sp ijk er se n Sp ijk er s. - 31 -
  16. 16. - 32 - Pu rp le dr es sa sa co lla rS pi jk er se n Sp ijk er s ,T ria ng le dr ess Di sa ya at H ar ve y N ic ho ls. Dr es sS te ve & JY on iP at Do or sb y Ja sM .B . - 33 -
  17. 17. SANNA ANNUKKA www.sanna-annukka.com © Sanna Annukka.
  18. 18. - 36 - - 37 - © Sanna Annukka.
  20. 20. - 40 - - 41 - KAKSKERTA NEIGHBOURS GARDEN
  21. 21. - 42 - - 43 -
  22. 22. - 44 - - 45 - MY FAVOURITE PLACE NIGHTSWIM
  23. 23. VÄI- Walking to aeroplanes is something we NÄ- probably won’t be allowed to do very soon. I could run among these aircraft and disappear, any moment I want. I suppose that makes this little walk roman- ce. I bent down and scooped a handful of runway snow into my mouth, and it was still dripping from me as I passed the identikit air-hostess on the steps and gave her the most manic look I could find, wouldn’t want the little aeroplangel feeling too comfortable in her job. The MÖI- cold ice burnt my tongue and tasted bitter and filthy. I’d chosen this flight carefully; it meant not flying over the Baltic Sea. I could ne- ver dare to look at it again. It is not like other seas, it forgives nothing, no life that does not belong there can last more than a few moments. I had to be away from it, the suction I felt every time the tide went out, pulling me towards it. I’d lost NEN - 48 - my sister there, that’s why I was running, - 49 - that’s why I wanted to be in there. I lost her…we were walking, holding hands, an unusual thing to do but it was cold. We walked along the coast a while. A stranger to her but a face I knew came to me and felt me with his gun, pushing bits of my flesh and boner. «Come with me to the ashes of the old boathouse, I’m sure we’ll find something in common», he said. There, he wanted to kill me. Story by MGW Lahiffe I couldn’t remember why, there were probably a lot of reasons. I wouldn’t have time to ask more than one ques- tion, I decided. «What’s your name?» I asked. «Väinämöinen», he said back. He changed his expression and looked at my silent sister, her mouth open and showing her tongue. «I will let you go if I can have her», Väinämöinen said. I will never trust my mouth again. It said yes. It is like when a beggar stops you in the street for change and your pockets are full and you see the hunger in his eyes, and you say no. What will you do with that change? Throw it on a desk or in a jar until some turbulent day needs calming by sorting it and changing it for better money. I said yes and I saw the grim evil in him as he moved to her. She ran though, good girl I thought, and she kept running. Into the November sea, into the furnace of cold that is the Baltic, her hair splayed like seaweed as she went under. Photograph - Jussi Saastamoinen
  26. 26. - 54 - - 55 -
  28. 28. A PICTURE TELLS A Aki Kaurismäki was born in Orimattila in southern Finland in 1957. After an initial apprenticeship co-directing his elder brother Mika’s films, he directed his first film in 1983. Among his films are Leningrad Cowboys Go America, Ariel, I Hired a Contract Killer, Drifting Clouds and The Man Who Wasn’t There, for which he was nominated for a Best Foreign Language Film Oscar. His films, mostly set in Helsinki, are stylised accounts of working-class and marginal life. He is widely considered to be Finland’s greatest ever film maker. Still taken from the film Drifting Clouds by Aki Kaurismäki. THOUSAND WORDS - 58 - - 59 - the same: he allows them one day of rehearsal and no more so their performances never become too ‘actorly’; they are always pitched between natu- ralism and the expressive passivity that wheedles the secrets, sorrows and emotions out of characters that are summoned as if from thin air. It’s not for nothing that Kaurismäki is the only major film direc- tor for more than 75 years to have made a silent film, his 1999 adaptation of Juhani Aho’s classic novel Juha. Drifting Clouds, like all of Kaurismäki’s films, is neither blindly optimistic nor masochistically des- People with hangdog looks are two a penny in Kaurismäki films but in Drifting Clouds he pairing. But it recognises the simple desires of peo- chose to hang one on an actual dog. Pietari perches on the ironing board, attentive to his ple; to paraphrase Kurt Vonnegut, all its characters master and mistress’ needs and concerns. He is ever present throughout the film and goes want something, even if it’s only a glass of water. OLIVER FARRY everywhere with Lauri and Ilona. He provides the sort of unstinting, unwavering loyalty that only a good dog can. And Pietari’s performance – for that is his name in real life – is Some people might claim that Kaurismäki resolves too easily some of the problems he sets himself in impressive. the film but the clouds of the title drift, they never The objects we see in the picture are significant in both the film and in Kaurisamäki’s completely disappear. It’s not a perfect film but few work in general. The retro kitchen appliances are commonplace yet they are more than good films are perfect. He allows his characters to simply kitsch nostalgic signifiers for the director who was born in 1957. In the lives of be, as well as essentially good, naïve, stupid, mean They’re probably a couple, looking out at what seems to be the middle hire purchase, including the big colour TV that Lauri surprises Ilona with his characters, these clunking, CFC-wheezing, lead-lined hulks are the only constants. and wrong. But he is always on their side and the distance, until you realise that there’s a mirror placed, at an unusually early in the film. «Trees still grow,» says Lauri defiantly after he loses his job. But the appurtenances of a one thing that is never excluded in a Kaurismäki high level, half-obscured by a pile of tea towels or some such linen, their But after the breakup of the Soviet Union and the collapse of Finland’s contented domestic life are less assured. The new colour television gets repossessed as film is hope, because that, no matter how mispla- ease of access indicating they’re called on a lot in this household. The number one trading partner the cold winds of recession blow over the the couple fail to meet their payments. The furniture follows. But the old vacuum cleaner, ced or impossible it might be, is what people do. couple is Lauri («not yet fifty», as he says in this very scene) and Ilona country. Both lose their jobs. First Lauri, who keeps his redundancy a toaster, radio and TV remain. Neither are the truths of the world assured, Ilona, at a job (38). There’s a studiousness about them that suggests a moment of some secret from Ilona for a month («Most the routes don’t make any money. interview, says that the Dubrovnik was the ‘best restaurant in town’ only to be cruelly told, importance. Ilona, with her dressing gown belted like a corset and her Half the people drive and half take the Metro. The rest can’t afford to ‘yes… after the war.’ 1950s kitchenware, looks like the doomed heroine of a Douglas Sirk walk.») Then Ilona, whose cherished restaurant Dubrovnik is bought out The ironing board appears throughout the film, as emblematic as the ironing board in melodrama. But the era is the early 90s and Lauri and Ilona are the by creditors. Both find it hard to adjust. Lauri loses his license – and a John Osborne’s Look Back in Anger was. But with Osborne, it was a symbol of stifling do- protagonists of an Aki Kaurismäki film, Drifting Clouds (1996). It is a job driving tour buses – when it is found he is almost deaf in one ear. mesticity. With Kaurismäki, it is indicative rather of domestic order and reassurance: when film in which the characters and the viewers sense the musty shroud of Ilona is told she is too old to work in restaurants – «But I’m only 38,» Lauri leaves Ilona briefly, ashamed at being unable to stand up to her thuggish employer, poverty creep up on them. But for all that it is not unburdened of hope. she says, only to be told, «exactly, you could drop dead any minute,» the saddest pointer to his loneliness is the fact that he is forced to iron his shirts on the top The strange high angle of their kitchen mirror allows them to rehearse by a man who is over 50 but «has contacts». of a bedside locker. The ironing board is part of the film’s tribute to work, not a grimly pu- the hopeful stance that they find themselves assuming for so much of the The couple are childless but during the film we see briefly the portrait of ritanical or Stakhanovite valorisation but a eulogy to the simple efforts of ordinary people film their necks are likely to seize in an eternal crick, if the continuous a smiling boy, whose identity is otherwise unexplained but can easily in their everyday labours and the dignity that goes with it. Lauri cleaves so tightly to this setbacks they experience don’t knock them back out of shape. be guessed at. Kaurismäki provides a twist that would be lost on many ideal that he proudly refuses to draw the dole, further imperilling himself and Ilona. The moment of import is a job interview, for which Lauri has scrab- viewers – the child in the photo is Matti Pellonpää, his regular leading Kaurismäki’s characters inhabit a world that flits in and out of the actual one, it’s not real bled together a semblance of formality. At the start of the film, both man, who died relatively young the previous summer. Ilona’s grief is fur- but it is realistic. Like Fassbinder, he plots only the salients of his drama and his characters are employed, Lauri as a tram driver and Ilona as the maître d’ in an ther hinted at when she leaves off cleaning, saddened by news reports bud as the films progress. His films lead off from a standing jump; the characters, like the old-fashioned restaurant. They seem happy but ultimate happiness is of a tsunami in the Philippines and the execution of the Nigerian poet hero of his best-known film The Man Without a Past, have no past history to begin with. It elusive,kept at one, two, three, four removes. Everything is paid for on Ken Saro-Wiwa. fills itself in gradually. His method of working with actors (usually the same ones) is always
  30. 30. - 62 - - 63 - Pull Sylvia Rielle, Wool Neckles Ikou Tschuss, Pants Eres. Merino Wool Coat Ikou Tschuss, Legging Burfitt, Necklace Sylvia Rielle & Corpus Christie, Shoes Jean-Charles de Castelbaljac.
  31. 31. 6 65 - 65 - Dress Fornarina, Fur Collar Lutz & Patmos.
  32. 32. - 66 - - 67 - Hat Lutz & Patmos, Jumper Fornarina, Necklace Corpus Christi. Shawl Lutz & Patmos, Legging Eres.
  33. 33. - 68 - - 69 - Mohair Cardigan By Malene Birger, Pantie Wolfoord, Necklace Corpus Christie. Hair - Pascal Wolfert at LeBigOne, Make-up - Estelle Jaillet at LeBigOne, Model - Sophie at Major.
  34. 34. AURORA PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHE PÉREZ Rvontulet, literally meaning “foxfire”, is the Finnish name for the Northern Lights. It comes from the Sami legend in which the tail of a fox running along snow-covered fells strikes the snow drifts, sending a trail of sparks into the sky. This magnificent natural phenomenon, like dancing curtains of light in the night sky, is actually a result of charged particles, electrons and protons, accelerating in the earth’s magnetic field and colliding with air molecules. Light is created when these particles give up a part of their surplus energy. The oxygen in the atmosphere produces the vibrant green, yellow and red colors commonly associated with the light, whereas the rarer blue and violet hues are due to the nitrogen. Paradoxically, the sun is the culprit of these nighttime spectacles, whose eruptive activity and solar flares catapult particles of matter out into space at speeds of 1000 km a second on solar winds. The floating particles in the atmosphere from the sun’s boisterous flare-ups create the lights, much like the soft thrashing of a furry tail in the snow.
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  37. 37. MOO- MIN- ABOUT Illustration from the book Moominland Midwinter by Tove Jansson (orig. Trollvinter from 1957) - © Moomin Characters™ - 76 - internet and the apparent loss of innocence, the Moomins seem to becomes for a mere moment a creature of mystery and intrigue - 77 - hit a traditional yet subtly enriching role as educators of the grand to Moomintroll. BRYONY HARRIS public in being good-natured, kind souls. Respect, consideration and acceptance are unspoken yet underlying messages to those What is striking about watching the television adaptations who read and watch them. Melancholy, dreaming, boredom, of her books, are the moments of quiet. Richard Murdoch’s thick intrigue and the threatening situations they come across all serve voice warmly narrates; however there are many surreptitious naturally to enrich the characters and their interactions with each moments when we just watch. Moomintroll pads around his cosy other. looking kitchen finding something to eat, the whole family sit and enjoy their breakfast with only occasional slurping sounds to Subtle but powerful evocations of life lived close to the pepper the air, Little My toboggans down the hill for what seems elements and nature, of emotions effected by the seasons, and like minutes. These moments are significant pause points that act Tove Jansson, creator of and imagination behind the peacemaker, homemaker, jam-maker, all round warmth maker, of internal struggle serve to address a wider more complex adult subconsciously as the books did, giving the eyes time to dwell magical Moominvalley and everyone in it, died at the ripe age of Snufkin- the well respected flute-piping lone ranger, the Hemulus- theme which expands throughout the books. One winter, when dreamily over the character, and drawing you in wholly. 86 in 2001, leaving behind her a legacy of weird yet endearing a detached old gent who avidly studies nature, and Sniff- the lazy Moomintroll wakes up and can’t get back to sleep, he ventures characters and a rich tapestry of child and adult-identifiable yet anxious mouse who always seems to have a runny nose. out into the snowed-under desolate hills, feeling lonely, sad When people have the gift of constructing a whole storylines which have been translated into 34 languages and Our stage - Moominvalley, a varied, lush land dense with forests and scared. The nightmarish Groke with the staring eyes, who other universe in their minds, like Tolkien with his Ring world, played on TV sets all over the world. Her wonderland was first and tiny coastal archipelagos reflective of rural Finland, has freezes and kills everything in her path, is always looming in and Jansson with her fat quirky Moomins, it can become dreamt up after her uncle warned her as a young girl that if heavy snowfall all through the winter, so the Moomins gorge his mind. On his journey he encounters all sorts of strange new almost timeless. Instead of identifying with reality, we buy into she kept pinching food from the kitchen cupboards, then the on pine needles and hibernate, to reappear bouncing into the creatures, those who carry on their lives throughout the cold north imagination – it is a comfortable, exciting place to be, and Moomintroll, dweller of the space between the wall and the spring, with flowers and fruit abundant, and hot coffee and winds. Despite unnerving circumstances, Moomintroll learns and difficult to leave. stove, would come and breathe freezing air down her neck. This warm fresh bread served as their first breakfasts. As Jansson’s matures. memory of spook and danger would go on to play a lingering imagination broadened, so did the nooks, crannies and creatures role in her Moomin tales; indeed her liberal, bohemian family and of Moominvalley, and with them darker and more complex Jansson lived much of her life in relative obscurity, living youth would exert a significant influence on the characteristics of adventures. On a summer trip to a seemingly deserted island, on a remote island in the Gulf where her family spent their our unearthly friends. the Hemulus discovers a mysterious and beautiful barometer, summers when she was young. She later passed the Moomin takes it home to the camp, and wakes to an eerie storm and an baton to her brother Lars to continue. Her lifetime companion, Moomintroll, our main reference and naïve protagonist, imposing swarm of white ghostly figures with red flickering eyes Tuulikka Pietela, a well-known artist in her own right, became the was originally drawn by Jansson with wiry and ugly features, whose flailing robes burn with electricity; the Hattifatteners have inspiration for the character Too-Ticky. She had several female but soon developed into a fatter, softer hippo-like thing. He come to reclaim their prized treasure. lovers throughout her life; the certain sexual ambiguity of the lives with his family, the head of which, Moominpappa - the Moomins could be a nod to this aspect of her character. With no echo of Jansson’s own well-known sculptor father – spends his Folklore being at the forefront of traditional Finnish drastically specific gender traits, all that differentiates Moomintroll days reading the paper, writing his memoirs, and occasionally national identity, the mythical and the untouchable become from his female counterpart Snorkmaiden, is her little blond tuft uprooting the family on slightly reckless and whimsical trips. On current themes running through the Moomin adventures. So too of fringe. Their relationship, although fractionally coy, remains one occasion he sets off on a jaunt to build himself a house – is the development of morality and humanity passed on from more of a brother and sister bickering. However, Snorkmaiden’s which turns out very reminiscent of the shape of a heating stove. generation to generation. Much like another Finn, Mauri Kunnas girly preoccupations are blown when a Hattifattener singes her Among others in the houses’ motley crew are Moominmamma- and his dog stories, placed at a time before the invention of the blond lock – inspecting herself in the mirror and moaning she
  38. 38. Red sun just above the horizon, pink light kisses the fells desi- gned by the last ice age. Scenery continues until at last dissolves into sky. As the wind changes direction, the reindeer turn their heads against the blow and start moving. Their natural instinct leads to new pastures. Finland Lapland Samiland For centuries reindeer herders have followed their stock with their dogs and handmade skis. The reindeers’ yearly migration leads the people to move along with the stock. When reindeers are doing well, people are doing well. Reindeers make the people live, they offer shelter, food, transportation, and clothing. Nature has offered everything needed. There was no waste. Words & Photographs Jussi Saastamoinen
  41. 41. - 86 - - 87 - H AT J O H N G A L L I A N O DRESS MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA.
  42. 42. - 88 - - 89 - C H R I S T I A N L A C R O I X ( L E F T PA G E ) — C E L I N E ( R I G H T PA G E ) Model: Ulla Lauska at M Management.
  43. 43. KAIHO
  44. 44. There is longing. There is leaving. There is coming back. There is leaving again. There are the faces of loved ones, always a bit changed. A new line here. Couple of kilos there. The boobs have boobed out, or in. A hair is getting longer, or the hairline higher, sometimes there is no hair. And sometimes there just is no more. Past away, beyond –i don’t know what. There is the blue moment, just before the darkness all is blue. There is a rotten coloured ground, that shimmers when the frost arrives. There is this everywhere reaching whitness, that leaves nothing, but a naked nature. There is the green that comes through all the death. And everything is full of the bright life again. Sometimes i and the silent lake wonder about the circling monoghramy of the landscapes. If all that would be the macrocosmos of a living being, if the nature would be the body, would the colour be the spirit ?
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  48. 48. S A N N A S A A S TA M O I N E N - B A R R O I S ( A R T I S T )
  50. 50. FOR Miina Äkkijyrkkä is no stranger to controversy. The Finnish sculptor has never followed the mainstream, nor given up on anything she believed in. She says what she thinks and she What is your normal day like? says it loud. In 2002, the uncompromising artist received a State Art Award for her talent of using Either a normal day doesn’t exist, or every day is normal. It THE LOVE contradictory elements in her art. The sculptures depends on the season. In spring, when the overwhelming steely of cows are combinations of agriculture and Scandinavian light spreads everywhere, I draw as much as “high” culture. She is famous for connecting her possible. It’s the time for calving and I run to the cow house all passion for cattle-raising and the visual arts as the time to check if new calves have been born. It’s hard, I sleep well as gluing together performance art and too little, but I want to be awake. During the summer, I’m welding respect of traditions. Today, in addition to creating or preparing my exhibitions. This summer was different since I performance and sculptural works, she is involved was trying to find myself a new place to live. I realized that none of the countryside villages attract me anymore because of the OF CALF in a rich collaboration as a textile designer fear of darkness and the lack of stimulus that surrounds the spirit with Marimekko. Still, for some, and especially there. It’s not my life. I’m in a hurry. I have a burning desire to for officers of Helsinki, she is only a crazy cow fulfill myself, to satisfy the intuition I have with cows. woman who doesn’t obey the rules, uses too much space, creates too much noise and damages the How is it to live in Finland as an artist? town’s property. For the past 44 years she has been an important advocate for the protection I’m almost 60 years old now and I have no place to live. Helsinki of Finncattle, the native Finnish dairy breed. is trying to evict me and my cows, and to make sure that I won’t Äkkijyrkkä currently resides in Helsinki, «On find any kind of home in my own hometown. Cows and my work the 6th of November, the court announced that as a sculptor go so obviously together that it’s hard for me to INTERVIEW - PIHLA HINTIKKA Äkkijyrkkä has to leave her home by the end of think that they would ever be strewed in different directions. My PHOTOS - JEREMY BARROIS the year - and probably say good bye to her cattle ideas will probably change if I have to travel 100 kilometers to too. This interview was made a couple of weeks the source of my inspiration. ‘Operation Eviction’ wouldn’t be excruciating if I was really depressed and slouched in bed all before the verdict.» day. In that case it could be good to move for a change. My kids have flown the nest and it would be the perfect opportunity to create art. I’ve recently had exhibitions from New York to Tokyo, and suddenly I have no place where I can unpack my bags, think things through and continue to work. I want to live 45 minutes away from the centre, or else in another country or planet. I often visit Paris but I couldn’t bring my cows there either. I’d love to find a place somewhere in France with pastures, not too far away from Paris. I just want to be somewhere with my - 107 - cows. People don’t seem to understand that success is always a result of hard work. It doesn’t happen easily or by chance, like a seagull pooping on your head. You have to say no to so many things in order to walk on the right path that will lead you Why cow’s? to success. If an athlete wins a golden medal, the town treats him like a hero. As a sculptor I use a lot of space, which is The first steps of a calf are untouched, they are moments of Sisu inconvenient, and the town wants to get rid off me. If the police (Finnish strength) and coming to life. Calves are careless, I’m attempt to shoot my cows, it will be a very big deal. inspired by their braveness and their power, they fill me with a fanatic joy and drive. A calf bursting into life is more abstract Is art a battle? than an elegant gazelle, it breaks all the rules of finesse and that is why it’s at the heart of all my art. I can infinitely use its How to keep the artistic spark alive is a personal battle. An abstract form. Also, the cow’s status has changed over the years. artist needs to express himself but he has to be able to reject all The cow used to be a part of the family, but nowadays it’s only the impulses from his surroundings in order to stay focused on a number code. We have lost the real contact with the animal. the substance. If a creative person becomes famous in a small I’ve been researching all the instances in the world where cows country he gets approached continuously and in many different have had a direct relationship or impact on a human being. ways. This takes a great deal of energy, and may shape the I’m particularly interested in the cow’s ability to learn, I find it personality. It’s not good. There are always admirers and haters, unbelievable how little people actually know about it. but every artist should have a safe place to be calm and alone. Sometimes I feel like I’m carrying a vulnerable artistic spark in You’ve been called Äkkijyrkkä (Abrupt) and Lång (Long). What my arms and I would like to take it home to all my colours and do these names stand for? papers, but then somebody interrupts me by asking how many cows I own. They usually get pissed off because I don’t grant Liina Lång (Long Rag) is a signature name because I received them enough time or a proper answer. Unfortunately, I don’t a State Art Award and lost everything. I wanted to have an have five secretaries and ten doors like the officers of Helsinki. anonymous name. I didn’t use it for a long time because it didn’t I can’t sneak out from a back door, I work outside and anyone work for anyone, it was too soft. I am, and I’ll always remain can grab my arm without any respect for my privacy. It’s no Miina Äkkijyrkkä (Mine Abrupt). I came up with this name wonder that in Helsinki some people think I’m a “horrible bitch” because it’s funny, like a fence made of brushwood, visually because I don’t have the energy to explain the simplest things too with all its consonants. My family has always been all about to everyone who asks. I often yearn for the kind of peacefulness name-games. A name is never just a name; it expresses the that Paris could offer, millions of people around and nobody who essence of a person. I would never want to have a common knows me. The mass is like a forest, filled with different stimulus, name. I’m already indignant that there are two other Äkkijyrkkäs glamorous colors and all in life that strikes me. I can close my in Finland, and that I’m receiving their mail. Äkkijyrkkä is a big eyes and listen to all the noises like a billowing race, a storm. I name and it shouldn’t belong to just anyone. love metropolitans. If I’m really depressed, I fly to New York.