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Presentazione italian fashion Presentazione italian fashion Presentation Transcript

  • Naples  Lecture by Marianna Carbone Academy of Fine Arts, Naples carmardue@hotmail.it «The Colors of Italian Fashion» LMA Art Academy of Latvia September 2013 Yesterday http://www.accademiadinapoli.it/
  • Naples  Postcards from Naples Everytime
  • A history report… Life in Naples …now
  • Contents Where I come from? • History and heritage in colors • Inspiration and tradition • The colors of the Fashion lords The city I’ve lived • Neaples Inspiration and tradition • «Artifex» colors Contemporary in colors • Academy of fine arts Naples • New style • New talents for young students Carbonem contents 2 minutes ago
  • Outline Carbonem outline The next two hours
  • ItalyNow Carbonem where I come from?
  • A history in colors Leading blue! Many years ago.. Why to make an opera when is so nice to dream only? «Il Decameron»Film by P.P. Pasolini, 1971 Giotto, Cappella degli Scrovegni Padova, 1303- 1305 Carbonem where I come from?
  • A history in colors Blue more golden age! Many years ago.. Virgin Enthroned with Angels, detail, Fogg Art Museum, Harvard. Spinello Aretino Tempera and gold leaf on wood, c. 1380 Gold and blue influence! Carbonem where I come from?
  • A history in colors History and heritage in colors Many years ago.. carbonemwhereIcome from? Cappella Sistina, Michelangelo Buonarroti 1508-1512 The color of God!
  • Inspirations and traditions Craft and memory Until now.. Lace, 16° century, Italy One of the oldest art related the fashion in Italy was the art of lace, born in Venice in the 15° century and then quickly spread around the world. Carbonem where I come from?
  • Inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemwhereIcome from? Border, Milan 2nd half 17th Century The fashion lace initially concerned only cuffs, then was used for collar borders and was an embellishment of personal and household linen as well as vestments of the church and veils for brides.
  • Inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemwhereIcome from? Fitted border, Venice, mid-17th Century The most famous place for the lace is Venice in particular Burano (a beautiful Island near Venice) that is the oldest center for embroidered/needle lace. The first Burano lace trace back to 1500. It was created in the noble house using a needle and thread without any canvas for support. The subjects were geometric designs; flowers, animals... This art was really vivid until the second half of 20th century when he women started very early, since they didn't attend school and spent all the time with their mothers who taught them how to do it. At 12-13 years they started to go to school at the Scuola dei Merletti, managed by nuns. It was a convenient place to work, since until 1950 most of the houses didn't have neither heat nor light, whereas there they were paid fort heir job and they also have light and heat all day..
  • Inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemwhereIcome from? Italy is a place where tradition and craftsmanship are still sheltered and nurtured, although it's becoming more and more difficult to protect these beautiful forms of art (just like filigree). One way to keep them alive is to embrace and remember them. Needlepoint lace pattern panel, Italy, 2nd half 17th cent
  • Inspirations and traditions carbonemwhereIcome from? The italian straw «strange» hat… 1928 The traditional art of working with straw found its greatest expression in the area of Signa from the latter part of the 19th century up to the present day. The manufacture of the world- famous Leghorn hat developed in this region. One of the first Italian fashion products to be exported was the straw hat. The processing of the straw hat was an old tradition alive until today where the heritage of the artisanal tradition of Florentine straw hats is united to the dynamism of today’s marketing.
  • Inspirations and traditions carbonemwhereIcome from? The «straw» color 1760 The tradition of artisanal art and quality are the most important ingredients of “made in Italy”. The opposite face of the fashion star system are the million of small company that make good quality product and exported all the world laboriusly.
  • Inspirations and traditions carbonemwhereIcome from? The «straw» color 1950 Typical straw hat from Florence in 1950s. That’s stunning!
  • Inspirations and traditions carbonemwhereIcome from? The «straw» color While we are talking.. Until today survive some art craft like wickers production, Though much of them on the market today come from the East, the traditional European craft survives in pockets of the Mediterranean lik ePortugal, Spain and Italy. In Sicily in particular wicker is still crafted according to the most ancient of traditions and is a real art. Sicilian Folk, Italian traditions and craftsmanship are subjects close to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana The designers explored many Sicilian crafts in the Spring Summer 2013 runway collection and wicker formed a true mouth dropping sub theme. Weaved wicker reeds are fashioned into corsets, dresses and even heels of shoes, as a visual and fashionable celebration of those great crafts from the past that still survive today.
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts carbonemwhereIcome from? Once upon in a time understanding of new scientific theories like the theory of color and light, opens to the daily life and the ephemeral. “A painting walks in the crowd” Fortunato Depero, Gilet futurista, 1930 ca Futur-gilet! Before the fashion industry the fashion met the visual art. This futuristic gilet is an espression of creativity and scientific knowledgment at that time. Here the futuristic energy of this artistic period is converted into creative joy that while moving from a deep
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts Once upon in a time carbonemwhereIcome from? Unknown author, Parasol, 1920-1930 Simultaneous colors for modern design. in the 20s futurism produces design objects, costumes, textiles, scenery, overcoming difference between art, fashion and everyday life
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts carbonemwhereIcome from? Once upon in a time Unknown author, Parasol, 1920-1930
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts Some yars ago... carbonemwhereIcome from? Giacomo Balla, Model of golf, 1930. A painting to wear... Very interesting is the relationship between the Futuristic painters, in particularly Giacomo Balla and clothing. It’s a sort of surprising decoration with vivid and brilliant shapes and colors to create irruption of vivacity in the daily life rythm!
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts carbonemwhereIcome from? Once upon in a time Giacomo Balla, Woman dress, 1930 Art/life/Art/ craft
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts carbonemwhereIcome from? Once upon in a time Fortunato Depero, gilet, 1924
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts carbonemwhereIcome from? Once upon in a time Painter, sculptor, designer, creator of famous «coveralls», Ernesto Thayat interpret the spirit of the decade working in all forms of art. Was collaborator of Madeleine Vionnet since 1918. E. Thayat, Sketches for M.Vionnet, 1921-1924
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts carbonemwhereIcome from? Once upon in a time E. Thayat, Sketches for M.Vionnet, 1921-1924 Thayaht also developed numerous patterns for printing on fabric that Vionnet used for her dresses, and designed some original models, including landscapes.
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts carbonemwhereIcome from? Once upon in a time The visual research around Futurism and Italian design of 20s and 30s in Italy, has certainly influenced many fashion designer until today! One of this is Salvatore Ferragamo, as we can see in his beautiful shoes there are many tribute s to the colors research of Futurism as well as to the artists of Bauhaus that made possible the union between pragmatism and
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color contrasts carbonemwhereIcome from? Once upon in a time Salvatore Ferragamo, Sandal, 1938-1940, raffia, cork wedge heel
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Elsa: pink and more… carbonemwhereIcome from? 1890-1973 Italian fashion designer, Elsa Schiaparelli (1890- 1973), was one of the most influential creators of Parisian haute couture in the era between the two World Wars. She was a visionary and artist in the fashion industry, bringing aShocking new style to the dull and drab knitwear age. She worked with Dada and Surrealist artists on her fashion, fragrance, and advertisement designs. Schiaparelli had close relationships with many artist in the Parisian artistic community, including Man Ray Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti, and Marcel Vertes. Some of her most important and iconic pieces were influenced by or collaborated on with the famous artists, specifically surrealists, of her day in 5 seasons in 1938 and 1939, she presented some of her most memorable thematic collections: the Circus, Pagan, Zodiac, Commedia dell’arte, and Music.
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Commedia dell’arte collection carbonemwhereIcome from? 1939 Elsa Schiaparelli's Patchwork evening jacket was inspired by the Harlequin pattern used by Surreallist artist during this time period, artist of influence included Pablo Picasso and Man Ray. See Le Beau Temps by Man Ray. Polychrome wool felt, blue silk faille; Commedia dell'Arte collection; embroidered by Lesage.
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Color and poetry carbonemwhereIcome from? 1937 Schiaparelli's "Cocteau" Evening Jacket, Fall 1937. Created by Elsa Schiaparelli and artist Jean Cocteau. Linen, metalic foil, beads, paillettes; embroidered by the House of Lesage.
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1937 Surrealist colors
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1937 Shocking-pink dress (fall 1937), silk- velvet bolero with metal embroidery by Lesage (fall 1938), and Starburst earrings, c.mid-1930s Shocking!
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1939 Shocking!
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1938 Circus collection Jacket with handmade acrobat buttons
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1938 Circus collection
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1938 Circus collection
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1914-1992 Vivid printsOn brief leave from the Italian Air Force, pilot Emilio Pucci, the Marchese di Barsento, is on holiday in Zermatt, Switzerland, when ski costumes he designed for himself and a girlfriend—a chic hooded parka and streamlined pants—catch the eye of fashion photographer Toni Frissell. She snaps his designs and encourages him to work on more. (“When one skis, it is not necessary to look a mess,” he will later say. “The skis are waxed, and it is just as important that one’s gloves are as perfect.” On leave in Capri, Pucci designs bright, breezy dresses for a female friend. Capri pants are born. His colorful wear mirroring the mediterranean surrounding Landscape of bougainvillea and blue sea.
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1968 «Prince of prints» “True elegance is freedom of expression” Emilio Pucci In the sixties, Pucci created prints more and more lively, with a kaleidoscope as a guide to color his Op- Art arabesques, filigree, and mosaic patterns in Art Nouveau stylized and geometric patterns.
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 2009-2010 «Prince of prints» His brilliance reminiscent of art, landscape and nature...
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 2009-2010 «Prince of prints» ...And ceramics.
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 60s «Prince of prints»
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? 1932 «The last emperor» “I know what women want,” “They want to be beautiful.” Valentino His dresses were clean and modern, yet unabashedly feminine—with bows, flowers, ruffles, lace, embroideries— always in the finest fabrics, always elegant. In his first collection, there appeared what would become his signature: a dress the color of poppies, later known as “Valentino red.”
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? «The last emperor» In July 2007, Valentino celebrated 45 years of luxury in high style. The glitterati flocked to Rome for a three- day gala, during which they were treated to a retrospective at the ancient Ara Pacis, dinner at the Temple of Venus, an aerial ballet, and a grand ball at the Villa Borghese. As fireworks sparkled overhead, it was clear to all assembled that Valentino was a living legend. That fall, the designer announced his retirement. “As the English say, I would like to leave the party when it is still full.” The following January, he walked his last runway to a standing ovation. 2007
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Rouge 2007 Although Italian red is very popular in many areas the true red is «valentino red»
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Valentino red and white 2013 All colors are pure and elegant. Valentino maison under the new creative direction continue to be sophisticated and glamour but more cool, modern and contemporary! Valentino Couture, S/S 2013
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Valentino in red flowers 2013 Valentino Couture, S/S 2013
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords Carbonem where I come from? Not only red : architecture black and white 2013 Valentino Couture, S/S 2013
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Back to red 2013 Valentino Couture, S/S 2013
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Back to red 2013 Valentino Couture, S/S 2013
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? King Giorgio 1934
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Greige by Giorgio Armani 80s A major contribution to the success of Italian designer fashion during the 80s decade was provided by Giorgio Armani who fascinates as much by his timeless style as by his excellent business sense. Armani’s particular design trademark is the classic suit which has been equally influential on menswear and womenswear.It became the symbol of a relaxed, businesslike appearance for either sex
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Greige by Giorgio Armani 2012 Inspired by the film in black and white, and the atmosphere of America in the twenties and thirties, his style chooses shapes sharp and clean tones and cool colors: beige, gray and greige, a new shade in the balance between the gray and earthy sand Armani’s particular production ranges between clothes of all kinds.Changes the design of the jackets: Deletes the internal supports (padding and interlinings), are moved to the buttons and changed the traditional proportions: thus born the unstructured jackets, absolute emblem of his
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Greige by Giorgio Armani 2012 Another source of great inspiration for Armani is the oriental culture and Arabic. In fact introduce some of its leaders korean collars, and coats similar to djellaba
  • The colors of the Fashion Lords carbonemwhereIcome from? Greige by Giorgio Armani 2012
  • The City I’ve lived Neaples inspirations and traditions carbonemcityI’velived Many years ago.. Naples, The maiolica Cloister of Santa Chiara, 1739 Brilliant pop- colors! There is an incredible cloister in one of the hundred churches in Naples that’s a sample of collection of brilliant and fresh colors. The scenes are about allegories and daily life.
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions History and heritage in colors Many years ago.. carbonemcityI’velived Naples, The maiolica Cloister of Santa Chiara, 1739 Brilliant pop- colors
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions History and heritage in colors Many years ago.. carbonemcityI’velived Naples, The maiolica Cloister of Santa Chiara, 1739 Brilliant pop- colors
  • Neaples inspirations History and heritage in colors Many years ago.. carbonemcityI’velived Pompei, Villa dei Misteri, fresco I century b.C.
  • Neaples inspirations History and heritage in colors Many years ago.. carbonemcityI’velived Artistic and cultural tangible assets of Umanity... Pompei, Villa dei Misteri, fresco I century b.C. «Rosso Pompeiano» One of the famous color in the world is rosso pompeiano. Pompei was discovered in 18° century and his frescos, his history, his heritage were really impressive!
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived Geography of blue: Antwerp blue, Prussian Blue, oltremare blue, cobalt, manganese, turquoise and finally, the most mysterious: «vietrese blue».. Ceramics, Vietri sul mare (Sa) Italy
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived The cultural history of a city is a sum of many stories, experiences, persons and traditions. It’s also the expression of past and future. Among various arts the Vietrese ceramic is a tangible asset of cultural expression and renovation of a city! Ceramics, Vietri sul mare (Sa) Italy
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions Inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived Ceramics, Vietri sul mare (Sa) Italy
  • A history in colors Inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived
  • A history in colors Inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived The city of «guarattelle» The word «Guarattella» is the dialect version of italian word «puppet». This tradition is alive since 1500 in south of Italy where in a tipical street theatre were represented fantastic stories about Pulcinella and other italian traditional masks. The guarattella is worn on the hand of the man who drives the puppet telling stories about wizards, devils, death and popular tales.
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived "From the 15th century, the puppeteers Neapolitan traveled far and wide. Often along with other street artists (actors, buskers, charlatans, mountebanks) the puppeteers turned from one city to another, from one country to another, in the wake of fairs and markets, doing know and appreciate their art not only along the borders of the Italian territory, but in the whole of Europe and beyond. So they exported the Italian Renaissance, and the puppet theater.
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived «Pulcinella and death» Known in England as Punch, in Spain as don Cristobal, in Holland as Pekilaring, in Russia as Petruska.
  • Neaples inspirations and traditions Until now.. carbonemcityI’velived The plays of guarattelle consists in some fights between Pulcinella an other supernatural personages (as Death or Devil) or deputies of high society (as Doctor, Judge, priest, Policeman, Boia) hardly ever Pulcinella loose the game and at the end of story he plays with beaten corpses. These stories are symbols of ancestral dynamism and vitality . The sentiment that tell are the sentiment of universe.
  • Artifex colors carbonemcityI’velived 1950 Thanks to the tailors tradition in Naples, south of Italy, there are many example of succesful stories as “Marinella ties company”. The shop, founded by Don Eugenio in 1914 soon becomes a small precious casket in which authentic treasures of refinement and taste can be found, a small corner of England in Naples. In a time when the English style is a lot in fashion, Marinella is the only one to propose, in Naples, a vast range of exclusive products coming from London, exacting the sole right from the English suppliers Marinella, Napoli
  • Artifex colors carbonemcityI’velived 1950 The passion for the elegance and the quality still today goes on, thanks to Maurizio Marinella, third generation of the family, that has picked up the inheritance of the mark with an entrepreneurial spirit in agreement with the modern laws of the marketing, succeeding in making the mark E. Marinella be affirmed also abroad, from the United States to Japan. The production signed E.Marinella has preserved the scrupulous attention to the quality of the raw materials and the cared manifacture, still today rigorously handicraft , for these "veracious Neapolitan" and at the same time "very british" ties. Marinella, Napoli
  • Artifex colors carbonemcityI’velived 1923 Unlike other cities, the historic center of Naples has kept alive a craft : The making of leather gloves. This took advantage of the presence of a strong regional industry of tanning and dyeing (called University of leather), has meant that Naples is called the "World Capital of the glove," before, to date, still holds. Known since the eighteenth century, this production really took off beginning of the next century. The presence of the Bourbon court in the capital of Kingdom of Two Sicilies has contributed significantly to the worldwide development of this product already known for its beauty and quality. Omega, Napoli
  • Artifex colors carbonemcityI’velived 1923 Omega was founded in 1923. At fourth generation the company still manages to create through the gloves selection of the best skins "full bloom" dyes by Immersion (not covered/ patent) cut by hand for better fit and lined silk or cashmere gloves (100%) of superior quality. There is a great synergy between experience and technique. A couple of gloves, manufactured in traditional way is the subject of 25 tasks ranging from cutting to finishing. These steps, all done by hand categorically, are mostly made at home or in homes. Omega, Napoli
  • Contemporary in colors carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Academy of Fine arts in Naples, Italy. 1752-2013 Academy of Fine Arts, Naples
  • Academy of Fine Arts, Naples carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Students of Fashion Design Students project work. Fashion Photography
  • New talents for young students carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Students of Fashion Design Students project work. Fashion design Circus Collection By Viola Russo
  • New talents for young students carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Students of Fashion Design Students project work. Fashion design Presentatio n of 90s collection By Claudia Piroscafo Cazzato
  • New talents for young students carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Students of Fashion Design Students project work. Fashion design Presentatio n of Baroque collection By Elena Soria
  • New talents for young students carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Students of Fashion Design Students project work. Fashion design Presentatio n of Minimalism collection By Irene Scarpato
  • New talents for young students carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Students of Fashion Design Students project work. Fashion design Presentatio n of Hokusai collection By Annamaria Ruocco
  • New talents for young students carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Students of Fashion Design Students project work. Fashion design Accessorie s collection By Carmine Dell’Anno
  • New talents for young students carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 Students of Fashion Design The colors of student are...
  • New style and new models carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 ...new colors sustainability... well doing… The only color that can inspire today is the natural color or the color of sustainability ! We have new model to follow as recycle, reuse, redesign, sustainable fabrications, diversion of waste materials from landfill, fair ...fair trade label These are the color of new generation of fashion designer but not about boring beige T-shirts or scratchy, drawstring pajama-style pants, but fun, playful, ethereal, cerebral, intelligent design
  • New style and new models carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013 ...new colors Formafantasma http://www.formafantasma.comOne of the strongest trends for designers is the expression of ecological, social and community consciousness through for-profit fashion design corporations, which most recently have moved upscale from organic cotton T- shirts and hippy- ish drawstring pants to high fashion. There is now a wide range of companies offering well designed merchandise, from one-off art, Yoj http://www.fashionyoj.com recycled and redesigned clothing, organic and sustainable textiles and garment production, to a range of community and indigenous support cooperatives bridging the gap between traditional craft and high fashion. The company in this slide are some sample of design and fashion suistainable.
  • Brief to remember… carbonemcontemporaryincolors 2013
  • Acknowledgments Thank you to: Carmine Dell’Anno Melania De Rosa Zaira de Vincentiis Claudia Piroscafo Cazzato Marinella Arianna Razzano Toty Ruggieri Roberta Ruggiero Annamaria Ruocco Viola Russo Mariangela Salvati Irene Scarpato Elena Soria Mauro Squillace