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  • 1. The CompleteHome VeterinaryGuide
  • 2. THE COMPLETEHOME VETERINARYGUIDEChris C. Pinney, DVMThird EditionMcGraw-HillNew York Chicago San Francisco Lisbon London MadridMexico City Milan New Delhi San Juan SeoulSingapore Sydney Toronto
  • 3. Copyright © 2004 by Chris C. Pinney. All rights reserved. Manufactured in the United Statesof America. Except as permitted under the United States Copyright Act of 1976, no part ofthis publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored ina database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher.0-07-143395-3The material in this eBook also appears in the print version of this title: 0-07-141272-7All trademarks are trademarks of their respective owners. Rather than put a trademarksymbol after every occurrence of a trademarked name, we use names in an editorial fash-ion only, and to the benefit of the trademark owner, with no intention of infringement ofthe trademark. Where such designations appear in this book, they have been printed withinitial caps.McGraw-Hill eBooks are available at special quantity discounts to use as premiums andsales promotions, or for use in corporate training programs. For more information, pleasecontact George Hoare, Special Sales, at or (212) 904-4069.TERMS OF USEThis is a copyrighted work and The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. (“McGraw-Hill”) andits licensors reserve all rights in and to the work. Use of this work is subject to these terms.Except as permitted under the Copyright Act of 1976 and the right to store and retrieve onecopy of the work, you may not decompile, disassemble, reverse engineer, reproduce, mod-ify, create derivative works based upon, transmit, distribute, disseminate, sell, publish orsublicense the work or any part of it without McGraw-Hill’s prior consent. You may usethe work for your own noncommercial and personal use; any other use of the work is strict-ly prohibited. Your right to use the work may be terminated if you fail to comply with theseterms.THE WORK IS PROVIDED “AS IS”. McGRAW-HILL AND ITS LICENSORS MAKENO GUARANTEES OR WARRANTIES AS TO THE ACCURACY, ADEQUACY ORCOMPLETENESS OF OR RESULTS TO BE OBTAINED FROM USING THE WORK,INCLUDING ANY INFORMATION THAT CAN BE ACCESSED THROUGH THEWORK VIA HYPERLINK OR OTHERWISE, AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIM ANYWARRANTY, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TOIMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICU-LAR PURPOSE. McGraw-Hill and its licensors do not warrant or guarantee that the func-tions contained in the work will meet your requirements or that its operation will be unin-terrupted or error free. Neither McGraw-Hill nor its licensors shall be liable to you or any-one else for any inaccuracy, error or omission, regardless of cause, in the work or for anydamages resulting therefrom. McGraw-Hill has no responsibility for the content of anyinformation accessed through the work. Under no circumstances shall McGraw-Hilland/or its licensors be liable for any indirect, incidental, special, punitive, consequential orsimilar damages that result from the use of or inability to use the work, even if any of themhas been advised of the possibility of such damages. This limitation of liability shall applyto any claim or cause whatsoever whether such claim or cause arises in contract, tort orotherwise.DOI: 10.1036/0071433953
  • 4. C O N T E N T SIntroduction xixPart I Dogs and Cats 1History of the Dog 1History of the Cat 2Chapter 1 Choosing the Right Pet for You 5Housing Considerations 10Pets and Children 12New Pets and Other Pets 14The Responsible Pet Owner 14Finding the Right Dog or Cat for You 16The Prepurchase Exam 18Petproofing Your Home 22Your Dog’s Outdoor Home 23Naming Your Pet 24Introducing Your Pet to Its New Home 24Special Considerations for Cats 25First Encounters 26Rules of Play 26Chapter 2 Training Essentials 29Main Principles of Training 30Socializing and Desensitizing Your Pet 33Basic Training for Dogs 37Housebreaking Your Puppy 41Basic Training for Cats 43v
  • 5. vi CONTENTSLitter Training Your Kitten 44Solving Challenging Behaviors 45Canine Behavioral Disorders 45Feline Behavioral Disorders 58Chapter 3 Traveling with Your Dog or Cat 65Traveling by Car 65Traveling by Air 67Vacation Planning 68Chapter 4 Preventive Health Care 71At-Home Physical Exam 71Vaccinations and the ABCs of Immunity 72Controlling Internal Parasites 81Controlling Fleas and Ticks 82Preventing Heartworm Disease 87Dental Care 89Feeding Your Pet 92Battling Obesity in Dogs and Cats 100Caring for the Canine Ear 105Maintaining a Healthy Skin and Coat 108Nail Trimming 112Expressing Anal Sacs 114Chapter 5 Elective Surgeries in Dogs and Cats 115The Facts Concerning Anesthesia 115Neutering 117Tail Docking and Dewclaw Removal (Dogs) 119Cosmetic Ear Trimming (Dogs) 120Declawing (Cats) 121Postsurgical Care for Dogs and Cats 123Chapter 6 Infectious Diseases 125Infectious Diseases in Dogs 125Canine Distemper 125Parvovirus 129
  • 6. CONTENTSviiCoronavirus 131Infectious Canine Hepatitis (ICH) 131Canine Contagious Respiratory Disease (CCRD) 132Herpesvirus 134Leptospirosis 135Rabies 136Bacterial Disease 140Ringworm and Fungal Disease 140Infectious Disease in Cats 142Parvovirus (Panleukopenia; Feline Distemper) 142Feline Infectious Peritonitis 143Enteric Coronavirus (EC) 146Feline Upper Respiratory Disease (URD) 146Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) 150Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) 153Rabies 155Bacterial Disease 156Higher Bacterial and Fungal Disease 156Chapter 7 Parasitic Disease 159Fleas 159Ticks 160Mites 161Tapeworms 164Roundworms 166Hookworms 169Whipworms 171Warbles 172Heartworms 173Coccidia 178Ehrlichiosis 179Lyme Disease 181Cytauxzoonosis 182Hemobartonellosis 182Chapter 8 The Immune System 185Anatomy and Physiology 186Immunosuppression 189Allergies and Autoimmune Disease 189
  • 7. viii CONTENTSChapter 9 The Cardiovascular andHemolymphatic Systems 191Anatomy and Physiology 191Heart Disease and Heart Failure 194Arterial Thromboembolism (Cats) 200Anemia 201Bleeding Disorders 202Chapter 10 The Respiratory System 205Anatomy and Physiology 205Rhinitis 207Nasal Foreign Bodies 207Nasopharyngeal Polyps (Cats) 208Tracheobronchitis (Dogs) 209Collapsed Trachea (Dogs) 209Feline Asthma 210Pleural Effusion 211Pneumonia 212Chronic Obstructed Pulmonary Disease (COPD) 213Metastatic Lung Disease 214Chapter 11 The Digestive System 215Anatomy and Physiology 215Gastrointestinal Response to Disease and Treatment 218Disorders of the Teeth and Oral Cavity 220Esophageal Disorders 228Gastric Dilatation–Volvulus Complex (Dogs) 230Gastrointestinal Ulcers 231Hairballs (Cats) 232Hemorrhagic Gastroenteritis (Dogs) 233Intussusception 234Intestinal Obstructions 236Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD) 236Colitis 237Megacolon (Cats) 239
  • 8. CONTENTSixAnal Sac Disease 239Pancreatitis 241Hepatitis and Liver Disease 243Chapter 12 The Urinary System 247Anatomy and Physiology 247Kidney Disease 248Urinary Incontinence 251Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD) 251Canine Urolithiasis (Urinary Stones) 255Urinary Tract Infections 258Chapter 13 The Reproductive System 261Anatomy and Physiology 261Accidental Mating (Mismating) 265False Pregnancy 266Eclampsia 267Vaginitis and Metritis 268Cystic Endometrial Hyperplasia (Pyometra) 269Phimosis and Paraphimosis (Dogs) 270Prostate Disorders 271Chapter 14 The Skin and Haircoat 273Anatomy and Physiology 273The Itchy Pet 274Hair Loss (Alopecia) 281Seborrhea 284Acanthosis Nigricans (Dogs) 285Bacterial Skin Disease 285Miliary Dermatitis (Cats) 289Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex (Cats) 290Feline Acne 291Neurodermatitis (Cats) 292Solar Dermatitis 292Skin Lumps and Masses 293
  • 9. x CONTENTSChapter 15 The Eyes and Ears 297The Eyes 297Anatomy and Physiology 298Corneal Ulcers 300Conjunctivitis 302Glaucoma 303Cataracts 305Keratoconjunctivitis Sicca (Dry Eye) 305Retinal Degeneration and Disease 306Prolapse of the Third-Eyelid Gland (Cherry Eye) 308Entropion 308Ectropion 309Masses Involving the Eyelids 310The Ears 310Anatomy and Physiology 311Otitis Externa 313Ear Mites 316Otitis Media and Interna 317Ruptured Eardrums 318Deafness 318Aural Hematomas 320Chapter 16 The Musculoskeletal System 321Anatomy and Physiology 321Arthritis and Degenerative Joint Disease 322Patellar Luxation (Dogs) 327Torn Knee Ligaments (Cruciate Injuries) 329Hip Luxation 330Fractures 330Osteomyelitis 331Spondylosis Deformans (Dogs) 331Metabolic Bone Disease 332Mucopolysaccharidosis (Cats) 333Myositis and Myopathies 333Hernias 336Chapter 17 The Nervous System 339Anatomy and Physiology 339Seizures 341Paralysis 344
  • 10. CONTENTSxiDegenerative Disk Disease (DDD) 344Vertebral Instability (Canine Wobbler Syndrome) 349Myelopathies 349Vestibular Disease 350Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome 351Ischemic Encephalopathy (Cats) 352Chapter 18 The Endocrine System 353Anatomy and Physiology 353Hypothyroidism (Dogs) 355Hyperthyroidism (Cats) 357Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s Disease) 359Hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s Disease) 361Diabetes Mellitus 363Diabetes Insipidus 366Part II Birds 369Chapter 19 Choosing the Right Bird for You 371Factors to Consider 371Taming and Training Your Pet Bird 379Proper Nutrition 381Housing Your Pet Bird 384Chapter 20 Avian Anatomy and Physiology 389The Digestive System 389The Respiratory System 390The Urogenital System 391“Sexing” Your Bird 392The Endocrine, Circulatory, and Nervous Systems 393The Musculoskeletal System 393The Integumentary System 394Vision and Hearing 396Chapter 21 Preventive Health Care 397Preventing Injury or Accidental Poisoning 399Restraint 400
  • 11. xii CONTENTSAt-Home Physical Exam 402Nail Trimming 406Beak Care 407Feather Clipping 407Bathing 409Chapter 22 Avian Diseases and Disorders 411Respiratory Tract Diseases 412Digestive System Disease 414Neurologic Disorders 418Cardiovascular Diseases 419Endocrine Malfunctions 420Eye Disorders 420Ear Problems 421Disorders of the Skin and Feathers 421Hormone-Induced Feather Loss 425Musculoskeletal Disorders 427Reproductive Disorders 429Infectious Diseases 430Bacterial Infections 433Chapter 23 General Treatment of Sick Birds 435Care for Sick Birds 435Tube Feeding 436Hand-Raising Baby Birds 440Emergency and First Aid Procedures in Birds 441Part III Exotic Pets 445Chapter 24 Rabbits 447Restraint 447Housing 448Nutrition 450Reproduction 451Preventive Health Care 452Diseases and Disorders 453
  • 12. CONTENTSxiiiChapter 25 Guinea Pigs 457Restraint 458Housing 458Nutrition 459Reproduction 459Preventive Health Care 461Diseases and Disorders 461Chapter 26 Hamsters and Gerbils 467Restraint 468Housing 469Nutrition 470Reproduction 471Preventive Health Care 472Diseases and Disorders 472Chapter 27 Mice and Rats 477Restraint 477Housing 478Nutrition 479Reproduction 479Preventive Health Care 480Diseases and Disorders 480Chapter 28 Chinchillas 483Restraint 484Housing 484Nutrition 487Reproduction 488Preventive Health Care 488Diseases and Disorders 489Chapter 29 Prairie Dogs 493Restraint 495Housing 495
  • 13. xiv CONTENTSNutrition 496Reproduction 496Preventive Health Care 497Diseases and Disorders 497Chapter 30 Hedgehogs 501Restraint 502Housing 503Nutrition 504Reproduction 504Preventive Health Care 505Diseases and Disorders 505Chapter 31 Sugar Gliders 509Restraint 510Housing 510Nutrition 511Reproduction 512Preventive Health Care 512Diseases and Disorders 512Chapter 32 Ferrets 515Restraint 516Housing 516Nutrition 517Reproduction 518Preventive Health Care 519Diseases and Disorders 521Chapter 33 Miniature Pot-Bellied Pigs 525Restraint 526Housing 527Training 527Nutrition 527Reproduction 528
  • 14. CONTENTSxvPreventive Health Care 528Diseases and Disorders 530Chapter 34 Reptiles 537Care of Snakes 537Restraint 538Housing 538Nutrition 540Shedding 541Care of Lizards 542Restraint 542Housing 543Nutrition 546Care of the Pet Chelonian 547Restraint 548Housing 548Nutrition 549Preventive Health Care for Reptiles 550Diseases and Disorders 550Chapter 35 Amphibians 553Restraint 555Housing 556Nutrition 559Preventive Health Care 559Diseases and Disorders 560Chapter 36 Invertebrates 563Tarantulas and Scorpions 563Restraint 564Housing 566Nutrition 568Molting 568Preventive Health Care 569Hermit Crabs 569Restraint 570Housing 570Nutrition 571
  • 15. xvi CONTENTSMolting 572Preventive Health Care 572Diseases and Disorders of Invertebrates 572Chapter 37 Tropical Fish 575Getting Started 577Water-Quality Control 580Selecting Fish for Your Aquarium 584Diseases and Disorders 587Part IV Other Interesting Pet TopicsChapter 38 First Aid for Dogs and Cats 593The Five Goals of First Aid for Pets 593What to Do When You Encounter an EmergencySituation 594Planning for the Emergency 596General First Aid Procedures 598Addressing Immediate Life-ThreateningConditions 602Managing Trauma in Pets 607Managing Poisoning in Pets 610Other Common Emergencies in Pets 613Chapter 39 Caring for Injured and Orphaned Wildlife 633Caring for Injured or Ill Wildlife 634Caring for Orphaned Wildlife 636Chapter 40 Geriatrics: Caring for Your Older Pet 641Physical Challenges in Older Pets 642Saying Good-bye to an Older or Terminally Ill Pet 647Grieving for a Lost Pet 647Chapter 41 Increasing Your Pet’s Longevity 651
  • 16. CONTENTSxviiChapter 42 Reducing Stress and Promoting MentalWellness in Dogs and Cats 657Chapter 43 Cancer in Companion Animals 663Tumor Definition and Types 664Causes, Occurrence, and Diagnosis of Cancerin Pets 666Treating Cancer in Pets 670Specific Types of Neoplasia in Dogs and Cats 674Chapter 44 Zoonotic Diseases 685Animal Bites and Scratches 685Rabies 686Intestinal Worms 690Heartworms 691Ringworm 692Infectious Diarrhea 692Toxoplasmosis 693Leptospirosis 693Flea- and Tickborne Illnesses 693Mites 695Psittacosis 695Control Summary 695Chapter 45 An Introduction to Holistic Pet Care 699Botanical (Herbal) Medicine 701Nutritional Medicine 706Homeopathy 708Chiropractic Care 713Acupuncture 716Chapter 46 Ten Super Strategies for Reducing theCost of Pet Ownership 723
  • 17. xviii CONTENTSAppendix A Clinical Signs and Complaints in Dogsand Cats 733Appendix B Medications for Dogs and Cats 749Glossary 761Index 779
  • 18. Welcome to the Third Edition of The Complete Home VeterinaryGuide, your one-stop resource for information on companion ani-mal husbandry and health care. This Third Edition has been com-pletely updated and contains many new and exciting features,including a newly formatted and expanded section on pet first aid, aglossary of veterinary terms, a listing of the most common drugs andmedications prescribed for pets, a section on injured or orphanedwildlife, and much, much more!It’s no secret that pets are an integral part of our society today, as evi-denced by the billions of dollars spent each year on food, supplies, hous-ing, and pet care services. And of the over 60 million households thatcontain companion animals in this country alone, many are home tomore than one pet, and oftentimes these pets are of differing species.Because of this, a resource was needed that contained information on avariety of companion ani-mal species, all condensedinto one easy-to-read vol-ume. Hence, The CompleteHome Veterinary Guide, acomprehensive, up-to-dateguide to caring for compan-ion house pets, was created.The Complete HomeVeterinary Guide is loadedwith illustrations and cov-ers important topics con-cerning husbandry andhealth care for all popularspecies of pets. WrittenI N T R O D U C T I O Nxix
  • 19. from a veterinary perspective, this book provides an objective “nuts-and-bolts” look at pet care. It doesn’t matter if you own one pet or mul-tiple species of pets, The Complete Home Veterinary Guide coversthem all.Here are just a few of the subjects presented and questionsanswered in this expanded Third Edition:I Simple steps that you can take to improve your pet’s mentalhealth and well-beingI Matching clinical signs and complaints to disease conditions indogs and catsI Ten strategies for reducing pet care costs that you can imple-ment todayI How to treat annoying behavioral problems in dogs and catsI Complementary medicine and holistic approaches to pet careI What to do if you find an injured or orphaned bird or wild animalI The vaccination controversy: What is a pet owner to do?I How to treat skin challenges without steroidsI The universal warning signs of illness in pet birdsI Vital first-aid proce-dures, all of whichcould save your pet’slife somedayI Seven ways to help ourpets live longer andhealthier livesI Protecting your family andyourself from zoonotic(petborne) diseasesI The care and husbandryof exotic pets, from sugargliders to tarantulasxx INTRODUCTION
  • 20. I How to maintain highwater quality in aqua-riumsPart I of this book dealswith dogs and cats. Informa-tion ranging from selectinga pet to preventing diseaseis covered in this section.Fighting fleas, managingallergies, and coping withvarious medical conditionssuch as arthritis and dia-betes are just a few of thetopics that will prove valu-able to everone who ownsone or more of these triedand true companions.The popularity of petbirds is quickly closing thegap on that of dogs and cats.Part II covers importantinformation regarding theselection, housing, feeding,and preventive health careof pet birds, as well as selectdiseases and disorders.There are even sections on hand raising baby birds and on emergencyand first aid procedures for our feathered friends.For those pet fanciers who prefer less conventional choices forcompanionship, Part III is where it’s at! This section deals with exoticor alternative pets, including rabbits, guinea pigs, small rodents, chin-chillas, prairie dogs, hedgehogs, sugar gliders, ferrets, miniature pot-bellied pigs, reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates. For tropical fishlovers, there’s also a chapter on aquarium maintenance and diseaseprevention in fish.INTRODUCTIONxxi
  • 21. Part IV presents a vari-ety of topics of interest topet owners. You may havewondered how to adminis-ter cardiopulmonary resus-citation to a dog or cat, orwhat to do if your pet swal-lows a poison. Chapter 38covers those and otherimportant topics regardingemergencies and first aidprocedures for dogs andcats. In fact, this could verywell be the most importantsection of the book, since,in emergency situations,timing is of the essence. Asa result, foreknowledge ofthe material presented inthis chapter could verywell save your pet’s life one day.Other interesting and useful information presented in this section in-cludes caring for orphaned or injured wildlife, caring for the older pet,xxii INTRODUCTION
  • 22. increasing your pet’slongevity, reducing stressand promoting mentalwellness in pets, andunderstanding cancer indogs and cats. The chaptercovering zoonotic diseases,or diseases that can betransmitted from pets topeople, is sure to open someeyes! Although the chancesof transmission can be min-imized through good pre-ventive health care, manypet owners fail to realize theimportance of such care. Asa result, they can inadver-tently place their healthand, indeed, that of theirfamilies, in jeopardy.With the growth in popu-larity of holistic approachesto health care among peo-ple, it is no wonder thatmany satisfied followers areseeking such approaches fortheir pets. As a result, thera-pies such as acupuncture,herbal medicine, homeopa-thy, chiropractic, and nutri-tional medicine, as theyrelate to the health and well-being of our pets, are pre-sented in Chapter 45. Whatyou read may surprise you!Saving money seems tobe first and foremost onINTRODUCTIONxxiii
  • 23. everyone’s mind thesedays. And by followingthe 10 superstrategies sug-gested in Chapter 46 forreducing the cost of petownership, you’ll quicklyrealize that this book isone of the best invest-ments you’ll ever make!Of course, despite allthe information mentionedabove, this book is not designed to replace quality veterinary care forpets, but rather to supplement it. If your pet is exhibiting signs ofinjury or illness, always consult your veterinarian. Remember: Thesooner a correct diagnosis can be made by a qualified veterinarian, thegreater the chances are for a successful treatment.Now get set for an informative voyage into the world of petswith The Complete Home Veterinary Guide as your tour leader.Regardless of your pet fancy, this book is sure to increase your “petsavvy” as well as enrich the relationship you have with your lov-ing companion(s)!xxiv INTRODUCTION
  • 24. DOGS AND CATS1P A R TAccording to a recent (as of 2003) study conducted by the AmericanVeterinary Medical Association, there are over 110 million cats anddogs living in the United States alone. Pet owners spend billions ofdollars each on veterinary medical services and supplies for theirfour-legged companions. And this figure does not even include thefood they feed them! There is no doubt that, in American society atleast, dogs and cats are here to stay.History of the DogFor over 10,000 years, the dog has been an integral player in man’ssocial and cultural development. It’s blood and toil have helpedhumans discover new lands and build civilizations, and its use in warhas helped topple the same. It has hunted alongside humans for cen-turies and has been hunted by man for food. As eyes for the blind andears for the deaf, the dog has become an indispensable member of ourmodern society. But what really sets the dog apart from all the rest? Mil-lions of dog lovers will agree that it’s the special loyalty and devotionthe dog exhibits toward members of our own species—a characteristicthat has justly earned it the proper title of “[hu]man’s best friend.”1
  • 25. The modern-day dog(Canis familiaris) descen-ded from the wolf, withfour distinct groups recog-nized. The first group, thedingo group, is descended from the wolves of Asia. Its members weredispersed throughout the Asian, African, and Australian continents.Modern-day descendants of this group include Rhodesian ridgebacks,basenjis, and the dingoes of Australia. One distinguishing characteris-tic of this group is that they don’t like to bark too much.A second group of dogs, the greyhound group, is believed to haveevolved from wolves inhabiting the open plains of central Asia, Africa,and the Middle East. The oldest member of this group, the saluki, isthought to have originated prior to 1400 B.C.! Distinguishing features ofthe greyhound group include keen eyesight and incredible speed, twocharacteristics that the Egyptians found especially useful for huntingpurposes. Besides the saluki, other modern representatives include theAfghan hound, the borzoi, and, of course, the greyhound.The Northern dog group is believed to have evolved from the largegray wolf of northern Europe. Generally regarded as one-master dogs,descendants of this group have been used for a variety of functions,including pulling sleds (Alaskan malamutes, Siberian huskies), hunt-ing game (Norwegian elk hound), and guarding flocks (collies).A final group, the mastiff group, arose from wolves occupying themountainous regions of Eurasia. Gifted with a keen sense of smell,members of this group were commonly used as war dogs and as hunt-ing dogs. We still utilize the hunting skills of retrievers, setters, andpointers today. The mastiff, the St. Bernard, and the Great Pyrenees area few of the more sizable members of this group.History of the CatLike the dog, the cat is thought to also have wolflike ancestors. Themodern cat, Felis catus, is a direct descendent of Felis libyca, theAfrican wildcat, and Felis sylvestris, a European wildcat with a tabby-like appearance.2 DOGS AND CATSDogs are believed to be the firstanimals ever domesticated by humans.DID YOU KNOW?
  • 26. Interestingly, over the years, the domestic cat has undergone onlylimited selective breeding. As a result, it has the closest ties to its“wild” ancestors when compared to other domesticated animals. Evi-dence of this phenomenon can be seen in the similar size andanatomic features of all cats. Except for variations in characteristicssuch as muzzle and coat length and color, different breeds of cats gen-erally look alike. Compare this, if you will, to the dog, which comesin a multitude of sizes, shapes, and varieties, all brought on by selec-tive breeding.Cats first associated with humans back in the Stone Age, wherethey probably hung around camp for food scraps and leftovers. Itwas not until ancient Egyptian times that humans and felinesbecame true companions. Cats were used to hunt birds and catchfish for the Egyptians, and to rid their granaries of rats and mice. Sorevered did the cat become in early Egyptian society that goddesseswere fashioned after its image, and separate burial grounds were setaside for the mummified remains of those felines that departed fromthis world.As the world trade routes opened up and the high seas became animportant means of interaction between countries and peoples, thecat spread throughout the civilized world. Longhaired varieties soondeveloped, and became highly favored in the European communityuntil the Dark Ages, when superstition began to run rampant and catsbecame symbols of evil and witchcraft. They quickly lost their pre-ferred status, and the European cat population fell into decline.Unfortunately, when the Crusaders returned from the Holy Land car-rying plague-laden brown rats with them on their ships, there werefew cats around to meet this threat. As the bubonic plague devastatedEurope, the importance of the predatory nature of the cat increased,and numbers were soon back on the rise. As they regained their statusin society, cats found their way back into the farmers’ granaries andinto the courts of royalty.To this day, in the eyes ofmillions of cat fanciers,they still command a royalstatus in our society!DOGS AND CATS3The first evidence of feline domestica-tion dates back over 9000 years!DID YOU KNOW?
  • 27. Choosing the Right Petfor You1C H A P T E RBecause dogs and cats come in all types of shapes, sizes, colors, coatlengths, and personalities, how do you know which one is going tobe just right for you and for your particular situation? Here are severalquestions you should be asking yourself before you take the plunge:Why do I want a pet andwhat type do I want?Is it going to be an indoorpet or an outdoor pet?How will this pet interactwith my children orother pets in the house-hold?Am I willing to devote thetime and money neededto raise this pet?If you are simply look-ing for companionship,then you need only tochoose a furry individualFIGURE 1. 1 Dogs are believed to be descendedfrom wolves.5
  • 28. that strikes your fancy.Both purebreds and thoseof “questionable ancestry”can make great pets, andthe decision concerninggenetic purity is entirely up to you (Figs. 1.1 and 1.2). If you choose togo the purebred route, expect to pay more up front for your purchase.In addition, you run greater risk of facing genetic disorders inherent tothat particular breed. Being very cautious and prudent in your selec-tion process can minimize this risk.If you are like many pet lovers, you might be less finicky about alengthy pedigree and instead prefer a pet with a more mysterious genepool. In fact, there are several advantages to owning mixed-breeddog and cats (also known as domestic shorthairs, domestic medi-umhairs, and domestic longhairs). First, because of their diluted,colorful ancestries, theyexhibit a unique geneticphenomenon known ashybrid vigor. Because ofhybrid vigor, geneticallyblended pets, as a group,tend to be healthier and livelonger than their purebredcousins.Another obvious advan-tage of choosing a hybrid isthat they cost less to pur-chase than do their paperedpeers. Ask yourself, “Whattype of purebred breed(s) do Ilike best?” Then start lookingin newspapers, pet stores,and pounds and other animalshelters for crosses that con-tain the genes of your favoredbreed. In many instances, thegenetic makeup of the par-6 DOGS AND CATSOver 95 percent of felines in theUnited States are hybrids!DID YOU KNOW?FIGURE 1.2 Cats can be just as social and lovingas dogs.A dog with AKC “papers” is of higherquality than one without papers. F I CBecause the AKC has noreal regulatory enforcement of qualitystandards outside its sanctionedevents, purchasing a pet with “papers”is not a guarantee of quality.A C T OR F I C T I O NFF I C T I O N .
  • 29. ents is not known, yet you can usually guess the genetic background ofthe candidate by its anatomic features or by its behavior.For instance, let’s say you notice that a dog’s ears stand erect, yetare folded halfway. There is a good chance that this mystery breed ispart terrier. Does the dogenjoy lounging around inits water dish? It could con-tain some retriever blood.Does the cat appear to beslightly cross-eyed? Nodoubt it is part Siamese.Odds are that the individ-ual you encounter will be across between one or moreof this country’s top 10most popular dog or catbreeds.Of course, space limita-tions will play an importantrole in the type of dog or catyou’ll ultimately choose. Forexample, apartment dwellerswill usually want to limitthemselves to a cat or smalldog, whereas those withlarger living spaces will havemore options. However, thereare exceptions to every rule!Are you looking for anexercise companion (Fig.1.3)? If so, you will want tochoose a dog breed with astride length and aerobiccapacity that won’t slowyou down. On the otherhand, you might want a cutelap warmer just to keep youCHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU7FIGURE 1.3 Companionship is the number onereason for dog ownership.The excellent tracking skills of huntingdogs arise in part from their ability todetect distinct volatile fatty acidslocated on the surface of game or leftover on the ground, brush, and/or trees.DID YOU KNOW?
  • 30. company. If so, a cat or toypoodle will fulfill that needquite nicely.If you are in the marketfor a hunting dog, thereare many from which tochoose (Fig. 1.4). Setters,pointers, retrievers, hounds,and spaniels come in a widevariety of types, shapes,sizes, and abilities. Forupland game hunting, set-ters, pointers, and spanielsfit the bill. For waterfowl,retrievers won’t hesitateto plunge into the water toretrieve a fallen bird. Fortracking larger game, oneof the keen-scented houndbreeds might be what yourequire. Some hunting dogswill do it all! Keeping your particular needs in mind, research youroptions thoroughly, and talk with local gun club, hunting club, and/orbreed club members to assist you in the decision-making process.Perhaps you want a dog for protection purposes. If you envisionyour new acquisition roaming your backyard, lunging and snarlingat anyone or anything that approaches your gate, then forget it.Obtaining a dog under such pretenses is only asking for trouble (anda lawsuit), and is heartily discouraged. If, on the other hand, youplan to treat your dog as a true companion and household member,as well as protector, then your qualifications for ownership areacceptable.It stands to reason that an 85-pound rottweiler with glistening whiteteeth would certainly be more imposing to an intruder than would an11-pound Lhasa apso (not that the latter wouldn’t tear into the former—Lhasa apsos were originally bred for this purpose)! However, it isinstinctive that all dogs, regardless of breed or size, will actively defend8 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 1.4 As hunting partners, dogs have noequals!
  • 31. pack members (and, like it ornot, you are a pack member)or territory if threatened.If you want your dog to pro-tect you, it is important thatit recognize what does anddoes not constitute a threat.And this is where profes-sional protection trainingwill come in handy.All dogs to be used for protection purposes must be properly social-ized with people. Military and police dogs are perfect examples. Thesedogs are trained to attack on command only. Off duty, most are gentleas lambs. This is how your dog should be. This will not only ensureyour safety and that of your family and friends but also might preventa lawsuit! Remember: A socialized dog can be a great protector; anunsocialized dog is downright dangerous!Unless you are planning to become (or are already) a professionalbreeder, don’t purchase a dog or cat with visions of large profits fromthe sale of future litters. Most novices find out quickly that breedingoperations, if done correctly and humanely (as they should always be),represent a considerable investment in time and money. Be sure tofind out what these investments are prior to plunging into the petbreeding business.If you are a novice, confine your efforts to one of the more popularbreeds rather than to some exotic, delicate breed. As a rule, you’ll berewarded with larger litters and fewer problems with dystocia (diffi-cult or complicated birthing). In addition, the more popular the breed,the greater the demand will be for the offspring, resulting in greaterfinancial rewards.But breeder beware: When selecting your initial breeding stock,closely scrutinize the pedigree of the dog or cat in question. All that ittakes is one genetic defect to appear in one or more of the offspring,and your reputation as a breeder could be shattered!For many, the pleasure of dog or cat ownership is compounded bythe thrill of competition in the field or show ring (Fig. 1.5). Thousandsof events are sanctioned each year by national, state, and local clubsCHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU9Cats are loners by nature.F I C T I O NResearch has shown that feral cats,especially females, will actually exhibitpack behavior similar to dogs, groom-ing and taking care of one another!Only about 15 percent of cats willrefuse to socialize at all with humans.A C T OR F I C T I O NFF I C T I O N .
  • 32. that bring owners and their performers in from all over the country.Breeders are motivated by these events as well, for earning a reputa-tion for producing show champions is rewarding not only to the egobut also to the pocketbook.Housing ConsiderationsWhere are you planning to house your new pet? Hopefully, your answeris “indoors.” For some reason, many cat owners are under the falseimpression that a cat cannot be happy unless it is roaming free outdoors.Although this might have been the standard of thinking years back, it is10 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 1.5 The thrill of competition.
  • 33. time that cat owners changetheir attitudes toward thissubject. Aside from theobvious health hazards tooutdoor cats, such as carfenders and fan belts, hostile dogs, hostile humans, and infectious dis-eases, there is another important reason: an increased threat of zoonoticdisease transmission. As a result, although it is fine to allow your cat tospend some time outside, it should spend the majority of the day (and allof the night) inside.Dogs raised as housepets will respond more favorably to trainingand generally have less behavioral problems than those that are per-petually banished to the backyard from day 1. This is because dogscrave the attention and company of people, and, in most instances, abackyard existence does not fulfill this need. Problem behaviors anddisobedience frequently result from such discontent.In decisions regarding the housing of dogs, excitability, size, and coatlength are certainly three important considerations (Fig. 1.6). As a rule,the more excitable the dog, the more attention that dog will crave. Iso-late an excitable dog in a backyard away from human contact, and youare just begging for behavioral problems. At the same time, selecting alarge dog for a housepet and failing to housetrain or command-train itproperly could lead to some very disturbing and destructive confronta-tions. If you are not willing to devote the time to properly train anindoor dog, you should stick to one of the smaller breeds in order tolimit the damage that is bound to befall your carpet and furniture!Depending on the type of climate in which you live, haircoat lengthbecomes an important factor to consider when deciding on indoorsversus outdoor housing. In colder climates, dogs with long coats anddense undercoats can withstand the outdoor chill much better thancan their shorthaired counterparts. Conversely, dogs such as the Siber-ian husky and the chow chow may have a difficult time coping withsouthern heat without the benefits of air conditioning.Outdoor dogs with long haircoats will also require more groomingtime and effort to keep their coats healthy than if they were housedindoors. Are you willing to devote this time each day? If not, eitherselect a dog with a shorter coat, or plan on housing your dog indoors.CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU11The average cat will sleep well overhalf its life away.DID YOU KNOW?
  • 34. If you plan on housing a dog outside when it becomes an adult, besure that it is housetrained as a puppy. That way, if the need everarises to bring the dog indoors, it will be easier (and certainly moresanitary) to accomplish such a conversion.Pets and ChildrenDogs and cats can serve as great teachers to educate children aboutresponsibility and unconditional love! However, wait until your chil-dren are at least 5 years old before acquiring a new pet. Youngerchildren, some of who might just be starting to crawl or walk, stand agreater chance of being accidentally hurt or scratched by a housepet12 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 1.6 Dogs with long coats and/or thick undercoats should not be housedoutdoors in hot climates.
  • 35. than do older children. Onthe contrary, older childrenare better equipped tolearn about and/or under-take responsibilities asso-ciated with pet ownership,and can become active par-ticipants in the care of thenew family member.When selecting a pet fora child, choose one with anoutgoing personality, onethat can stand up to the rig-ors of ownership by a child(Fig. 1.7). Shy, introvertedpuppies and kittens rarelysatisfy the energy require-ments of children. Such petsmight be difficult to social-ize and could turn aggres-sive if mentally traumatizedby an overzealous child.With dogs, medium tomedium-large breeds arepreferred for children.Small dogs and toy breeds,because of their small stature, are more susceptible to accidentalinjury at the hands and feet of young ones. They are also more likelyto become aggressive if mishandled. On the other hand, while one ofthe giant breeds can be gentle as a lamb, such a pet could still pose asignificant health threat to your child because of its sheer mass.Personality features to look for in dogs include low aggressiveness,high tolerance, and low excitability. Golden retrievers are a favoriteamong parents, owing to their reputation for gentleness with children.Basset hounds, Labrador retrievers, and collies are also popular picks forchildren. Finally, when purchasing a puppy or kitten, limit your selec-tion to one that is between 8 and 12 weeks old. Because socializationCHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU13FIGURE 1.7 Dog ownership is an excellent way toteach children about responsibility and uncondi-tional love!
  • 36. naturally occurs during this time, a greater bond will form between itand your child.New Pets and Other PetsBefore bringing home a new dog or cat, consider your other pets thatare already in your household. Jealousies or incompatibilities (e.g.,cats and birds) could arise that need to be anticipated ahead of time.Be sure the new addition has been properly socialized to other pets,and vice versa! For example, if your existing dog is the type thatattacks anything that barks or moves on four legs, it might do the sameto your new arrival. Unsocialized dogs and cats (and even some thatare properly socialized) might refuse to accept another of their kindinto their territory without a fight.All newcomers should be gradually introduced to existing pets oneday at a time. Keep your new pet in a separate room or enclosure,allowing initial interactions to take place only under your directsupervision. These gradual encounters should eventually help breakthe ice between the two and help establish a social pecking orderwithin your furry family.The Responsible Pet OwnerPet ownership comes with major responsibilities in terms of both timeand money. For instance, dogs are pack animals and crave attentionfrom their human pack members (Fig. 1.8). Certainly one of the easiestways to upset a dog is to habitually ignore it. In fact, this lack of ownerattention underlies many of the problem behaviors seen in dogs.Regardless of whether you keep your dog indoors or outdoors, con-sider how much quality time you will be able to spend with it eachday. If your projections are low because of your job or other commit-ments, two dogs are often better than one. The company that one pro-vides the other while you are away can be an effective substitute foryour affections.Another factor to consider with a dog is how much time you willhave to devote to training. It cannot be stressed enough how importantthis is to your future relationship with your dog. One major cause of14 DOGS AND CATS
  • 37. owner dissatisfaction is an unruly pet. As a result, training is definitelyone aspect of pet ownership that should never be neglected.Reduced time requirement is a major reason for the increasing pref-erence for cats over dogs as pets. Cats are indeed fairly self-sufficient,seemingly needing only food, water, a clean litterbox, and very littletraining. While this is true in many instances, you are still not off thehook! All cats still need a daily dose of attention and grooming.The financial aspects owning a dog or cat, including food, supplies,training, and veterinary care, can cost hundreds of dollars each year,and that’s assuming that it stays healthy (see Chap. 46). Are you willingCHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU15FIGURE 1.8 Dogs are pack animals, and they crave attention.
  • 38. to accept financial respon-sibility for your pet’s pre-ventive health care or fortreatment in an event ofan injury or illness? If not,you are not ready for petownership.On a final note,although your intentionsmight be pure, never sur-prise someone with a newdog or cat unless you arepositively, absolutely surethat they want one in thefirst place. Think about it:Your gift to them includesnot only that furry bundleof energy but also a heartycommitment to training,time, and money (Fig. 1.9).Unfortunately, too manypeople do fail to thinkabout it that way, and as aresult, our nation’s poundsand shelters are overflow-ing with unwanted pets turned in by disgruntled or disinterested giftrecipients. As a result, it is always best to allow other people to come toa decision about pet ownership by themselves, and not to force it onthem by your good intentions. Believe me, everyone will be happier inthe long run!Finding the Right Dog or Cat for YouOnce you have decided on a particular type of dog or cat, now is thetime to start your search. Newspapers, pet stores, veterinary hospitals,the Internet, and word of mouth are all fruitful avenues for information.If you’re not interested in a registered pet, check with the local humane16 DOGS AND CATSA dog and cat that are correctlysocialized to one another can becomebest of buddies, whereas the sametwo animals, if socialization does notoccur, often become bitter enemies!DID YOU KNOW?FIGURE 1.9 Plan on brushing your dog everyday!
  • 39. society or animal shelter inyour area. These are excel-lent places to start andare often jam-packed withcanines and felines of alltypes, all eager to be adoptedinto happy homes. Usually,one can be yours to love foronly a nominal adoption fee.As an added benefit, youwill feel good knowing thatyou’ve saved an unwanted pet from an uncertain future.If a purebred fits your fancy, check pet stores or contact breeders,preferably within your area. Local veterinarians and groomers canoften provide specific recommendations. Magazines catering to dogand cat owners can also be excellent reference sources for profes-sional breeders. Finally, shows and other competitive events pro-vide a means of giving you a firsthand glimpse of the cream of thecrop and can give you the opportunity to meet prominent breedersin person.Before you go shopping, do your homework. Find out what thegoing rate is for the particular breed you want. Beware of the small-time operator who advertises or offers you a great deal on a “regis-tered” pup. These so-called great deals can end up costing you morein the long run in medical bills and emotional drain. Where qualitycounts, stick with reputable breeders who can provide you with thecomplete pedigrees of both parents and references of satisfied clients.This rule holds true for pet store purchases as well. Before buyingfrom a pet store, ask where the puppy or kitten came from and whothe breeder was. Ask to see the pedigrees of both parents. Reputablepet stores will have all this information readily available for yourinspection. And don’t hesitate to ask for references from satisfied cus-tomers. If the store is unwilling or unable to divulge such informa-tion, look elsewhere.Whatever you do, don’t rush your decision. Remember that you aremaking a long-term commitment. Take your time, and pick out thatspecial individual just right for you!CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU17To determine the age ofa young kitten, use ascale. Kittens under 6 months of agewill usually gain about a pound permonth of life. For instance, a 3-month-old kitten usually weighs around 3pounds, and a 4-month-old kitten willgenerally weigh in at about 4 pounds.DR. P’S VET TIP
  • 40. The Prepurchase ExamOnce you think you’ve finally found the perfect companion, nowwhat? For starters, you want to be sure you are getting a healthy spec-imen. Be sure to inquire as to vaccination and deworming history. Youmight be told that all of the “shots” and dewormings have been given.This might be true, but don’t hesitate to ask for, in writing, dates andnames of products used. Your veterinarian can then review this list forcompleteness during the professional prepurchase exam.Even before your veterinarian gets involved, you should performyour own prepurchase exam on the prospect. It is easy to do on siteand will help illuminate many problems that might otherwise eludethe untrained eye.1. Environment. For starters, take note of the surrounding envi-ronment in which the puppy or kitten is being kept. Does it look andsmell clean, or is it filthy, with uncleaned litterboxes or urine and feceslying all around? If the latter is true, you should question the integrity ofthe seller. Observe all the individuals in the litter or group. Do anyappear sickly, depressed, or otherwise unhealthy? An infectious diseasecan run rampant through such a congregation of young dogs and cats,and it could be just beginning to rear its ugly head within the group.2. Attitude. Now focus your attention on the actual candidate.Start with overall attitude. Does it appear active and healthy, or isit lethargic and depressed? Are breathing problems evident? Does itseem friendly and outgoing to people and to the other animals in thegroup, or does it seem shy and introverted? Dogs and cats destined tobe good pets should take an instant fancy to people, and should out-wardly display this affection. At the same time, avoid those individu-als with overbearing and domineering personalities. Observe howyour favorite treats other members of its group. Domineering personal-ities are usually quite evident. As a general rule, choose one that is“middle of the road”—not too domineering yet not too shy.3. Skin and coat. Once attitude and personality have been evalu-ated, check out the skin and coat. Any fleas or ticks present? How aboutany hair loss, scabs, or signs of infection? These could be indicators ofdiseases such as mange or ringworm, both of which can be zoonotic. Cats18 DOGS AND CATS
  • 41. especially are meticulous self-groomers. As a result, an unkempt hair-coat could signify parasitism or some other underlying health disorder.4. Lumps, bumps, or swellings. Run your hands over the umbili-cal area and, on both sides, over the points where the inner thighs con-nect with the abdominal wall. Do you notice any soft, fluctuantmasses? These could be herniations. Run you hands over the entirebody surface, feeling for other types of lumps and bumps. Note thelocation of any you find. Does the belly seem distended (swollen)? Ifso, it could be full of food, or it could be full of worms. Check beneaththe tail, looking for tapeworm segments and for evidence of diarrhea.Soiling on and around the hair in this area should tip you off to apotential intestinal disorder.5. Other anatomical considerations. Observe leg conformationand the way the puppy or kitten walks and runs. Any obvious defor-mity and/or lameness should be noted. In male dogs, check for descentof the testicles. Both testicles should be present at birth. If they aren’t,be prepared to neuter at a later date, not only for health reasons butalso to prevent the passage of this inheritable trait to future genera-tions. Fortunately, cryptorchidism is rare in cats.6. Head region. Now focus in on the head region. Using your eyesand your nose, check the ears for discharges or strong odors (usually asign of infection). Both eyes should be free of matter, with no cloudinessor redness. Compare both eyes, making sure that they are of the samesize, and that the pupils are of the same diameter. Glance at the nose,noting any discharges or crusts. Finally, look into the mouth. The gumsshould be pink. If they are white, the dog or cat could be anemic. Lookfor any severe underbites or overbites, or any missing teeth. Also glanceat the roof of the mouth. Cleft palate is a serious birth defect (see Table1.1), and unless it is surgically corrected, it will lead to secondary aspi-ration pneumonia and ultimately death.Consulting a VeterinarianLet’s say you’ve completed the exam described above and have foundsome potential problem areas. What do you do next? First, don’t get dis-couraged. Many of these conditions have quick, inexpensive solutions.This is where a veterinarian comes in handy.CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU19
  • 42. 20 DOGS AND CATSTable 1.1 Congenital or Inherited Disorders in Dogs*Eyes Microphthalmia (small eyes)Juvenile cataractsEntropion/ectropionGlaucomaProlapsed third eyelidTear duct deformityEars Congenital deafnessNervous system EpilepsyBrain underdevelopmentHydrocephalusInvertebral disk diseaseIntegument Umbilical herniaInguinal herniaDemodectic mangeDigestive system Cleft palateAbnormal dentitionOverbite or underbiteMusculoskeletal system DwarfismJoint dislocationsPatellar luxationCardiovascular system Blood-clotting disordersHeart murmursAnemiaRespiratory system Collapsed tracheaReproductive system Retained testicles (cryptorchidism)*For ethical purposes, all pets with congenital or inherited disorders should be neutered.
  • 43. Don’t feel awkward about asking the seller to pick up the tab (pay)for a professional prepurchase exam [and for cats, feline leukemiavirus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) testing] by a vet-erinarian of your choice. Sellers who are confident in the quality oftheir pets should have no qualms about this. If they balk, a warninglight should flash in your head. And don’t get suckered into a “money-back” or “lifetime” guarantee on a pet as an alternative to a profes-sional prepurchase screen. Such a guarantee doesn’t protect youagainst the emotional distress caused by having to return a pet towhich you’ve already grown attached.Follow your veterinarian’s recommendations as to the purchasequality of the dog or cat in question. If the one you have your heart seton does have medical problems that can be easily corrected, ask theseller to deduct these costs from the purchase price. They aren’t oblig-ated but by character to do so; as a result, you must decide on yournext move if they refuse or fail to compromise. The extra expense(including cost of supplies and required documents in addition to ini-tial purchase price of the pet; see Tables 1.2 and 1.3) out of your ownpocketbook might be worth it if you think you have truly found the petof your dreams! You be the judge.CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU21Table 1.2 Supply Checklist for Your New CatFood and water bowl BrushCat (kitten) food CombCollar or harness Bed or cathouseLeash Travel kennelClaw trimmers Flea control productsIdentification tag Scratching postCity license (if required) Toothbrush/pasteProof of rabies vaccination ToysLitterbox Heartworm preventive agentLitter
  • 44. Petproofing YourHomeIf you choose to allow yournew pet to have the run ofthe house, be sure to takeproper steps to petproofyour home. For instance,keep all electrical cords wellout of reach. This mightmean banishing your play-ful pet from certain areas ofthe house, but it is a minorinconvenience compared toa potentially fatal accident.Puppies especially love tochew, and electrical cordscan be mighty appetizing.Puppies explore withtheir mouths, and will pickup anything. Keep everything that’s not a toy out of reach, includingspare change. Also, be careful when putting out cockroach or rat poi-sons, as these can attract curious mouths.You will probably want to confine unsupervised puppies to non-carpeted floors until proper housetraining has been accomplished.Even so-called stain-resistant carpets can buckle under the strain ofrepeated bombardments.Keep all plants out of reach. Many dogs and cats love to chew onfoliage, and if they decide tonibble on a harmful orna-mented variety of plant, theycould poison themselves.Cats will also enjoy usingpotting soil as litter, and caturine has the unique abilityto quickly dispatch even theheartiest of house plants!22 DOGS AND CATSTable 1.3 Supply Checklist for Your NewDogFood and water bowls BrushDog (puppy) food CombCollar Bed or doghouseLeash Travel kennelTraining lead and Nail trimmersropeIdentification tag Ear cleanserCity license Toothbrush/paste(if required)Proof of rabies ToysvaccinationHeartworm Flea control productspreventativeCats love to play with strings andribbons. Unfortunately, stringforeign body intestinal obstructionsare relatively common feline medicalemergencies seen by veterinarians. Asa result, keep these items well out ofreach of your cat!A C T OR F I C T I O NFA C T.F
  • 45. Cats love to jump onto ledges, windowsills, and furniture. As aresult, be sure all opened windows are screened, and that all lamps,pictures, and collectibles are secured. Open washers/dryers, drawers,high ledges or balconies, hot irons on ironing boards, and stovetopburners left on can all be insidious dangers to your cat’s health.Pins, needles, rubber bands, yarn, string, ribbons, aluminum foil,cellophane, and holiday tinsel are just a few items that could causeserious health problems if eaten by dogs or cats. Inquisitive cats havebeen known to get their heads lodged within open cans and jars, andbecause cats possess a strange attraction to bags of all types, plasticbags can become death traps if entered.Your Dog’s Outdoor HomeNo doubt there will undoubtedly be special situations which pro-hibit the indoor dwelling of a grown dog. In these instances, outdooraccommodations provided for your pet must take into account itscomfort and well-being. Remember that dogs get hot and cold just aswe do, and when housed outdoors, need to be provided a means ofprotection against extremes in the weather. Your friend is entitled toa sturdy, well-insulated shelter. The doghouse should be positionedin a relatively shady area of the yard, and should also be elevated afew inches off of the ground using bricks or wood to prevent flood-ing in the event of a rainstorm. Ideally, the shelter should have ashort, enclosed porch which leads into the main house. This willhelp keep wind drafts from penetrating into the main living area.The main living quarters should be large enough to allow your dogto turn around comfortably within, yet confined enough to provideit a sense of security and to concentrate heat during cold winterdays. Finally, a ramp should be included to allow your dog easyaccess into its elevated home.If you build the doghouse yourself, select sturdy building materi-als, remembering that they must be able to withstand constant pun-ishment from teeth and claws. If fiberglass insulation is to be used,make certain that it remains well contained and sealed within thewalls and roof, since such material can cause severe gastrointestinalupset if swallowed.CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU23
  • 46. If you plan on further confining your dog to a pen or run, usea smooth concrete or quarry tile as flooring on which to place thedoghouse. Although such surfaces may not be the most comfortablefor your pet, they are the most sanitary and easy to clean. Floors con-sisting of grass, sand, pebbles, and/or just plain dirt only serve totrap and accumulate filth and disease, and should be avoided.The fence surrounding the enclosure should be made of wirechain link and be tall enough to prevent escape. Exposed metalpoints from the chain links at the top of the fencing material shouldnot extend above the metal support bar in order to prevent injuries ifyour dog does try to jump. The same rule applies for the bottomperimeter of the fence as well, just in case your dog tries to squeezeits way out.Naming Your PetNaming your new pet should be fun and involve the entire family.You can even find entire books dedicated to choosing the right namefor your dog or cat at your favorite bookstore. When deciding on aname, stick to one that has two syllables. This is especially impor-tant for dogs, enabling them to tell the difference between theirname and those one-syllable commands they must learn. You canfurther set its name apart from potential commands or reprimandsby adding a vowel sound to the end of it. Just be creative!Introducing Your Pet to Its New HomeYou will want to do everything in your power to make your new petfeel comfortable and secure in its new home. Establish an area in thehouse that your pet can call its own, and completely petproof it.When you first get your pet home, introduce it to its special roomimmediately. Allow it some time to scope out the new surroundings,including the sleeping accommodations you have provided. Thisshould include a cushioned bed, basket, or travel kennel. For kit-tens, cardboard or plastic boxes work just fine, assuming that easyaccess into these enclosures is provided. Be sure that your pet’s24 DOGS AND CATS
  • 47. sleeping area is in a part of the house far from noise and otherdisturbances.Special Considerations for CatsYour cat’s litterbox should also be placed in an area in the housewhere interruptions are not likely to occur. For very small kittens, analuminum pan or shallow tray may be used; for larger kittens andadult cats, your standard plastic varieties available from a pet shopwork just fine.Avoid using boxes or other cardboard devices for a litterbox. Notonly do they have a tendency to leak, but their porous nature is mostunsanitary to your cat. Covered litterboxes have the advantage ofkeeping the litter from being strewn across the floor—assuming,of course, that your cat feels comfortable enough to enter suchan enclosure!Try to match the type of litter used in your cat’s previous home,but be sure that it is dust-free. Also, avoid products containingchlorophyll to mask odors, as this substance can irritate your cat’snose and prevent it from using the box. Fill the box with about 11ր2inches of litter. For sanitation purposes as well as aesthetics withinthe house, make a habit of scooping out solids from your cat’s lit-terbox on a daily basis. (Note: Pregnant women should pass thisduty on to someone else, in order to reduce their risk of exposure totoxoplasmosis.) Both coarse-grained and fine-grained (“clumping”)litters can be spot-cleaned daily without having to dump out theentire box. However, regardless of litter type used, litterboxesshould be emptied completely and cleaned with soap and waterat least once a week to maintain sanitary conditions and to controlodor.Unless you plan to have your cat declawed at a young age, you willalso need to invest in a good scratching post to spare your furniture andfixtures from the ravages of your cat’s claws. Clawing comes naturallyto cats, which use such behavior to keep their nails in top conditionand to mark their territory. The scratching post should be made ofsturdy material and be heavy enough or braced so that it doesn’t fallCHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU25
  • 48. over when the cat attempts to scratch. A sturdy piece of soft wood isideal for this purpose. Other commercial varieties can be obtained froma local pet store. Avoid those posts lined with thick, compliant carpet,as this might not satisfy your cat’s needs, causing it to look elsewherefor a surface that will.First EncountersYour new pet’s first encounters with the rest of your family are impor-tant. Be sure that initial introductions, be they with children or otheradults in the family, turn out to be positive ones. Carefully supervisechild-pet interactions, and stress to your children the importance ofgentle play and handling. Instruct your children and other adults onthe proper way to pick up and hold a new puppy or kitten. Pets shouldnot be picked up solely by the front legs or by the neck. Instead, theentire body should be picked up as one unit, with the hind end sup-ported, not left dangling in midair. Picking a cat up by grasping theskin over the back of the neck is acceptable as long as the hind end issupported as well.If they had it their way, most children, and some adults, for that mat-ter, would choose to play with a new puppy or kitten 24 hours a day.However, you need to stress the importance of a rest time after periodsof play, and lay down strict ground rules against disturbing the pet duringthis downtime (Fig. 1.10).Rules of PlayPuppies and kittens love toplay. In fact, it’s part of theirnormal behavioral devel-opment. However, realizethat there is a right wayand a wrong way to goabout it. Follow these “rulesof play” to be sure that yourapproach is the correct one.26 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 1.10 Puppies need their rest, too.
  • 49. For dogs, toys should be made of nylon, rawhide, or hard rubber. Ofthe three materials, hard nylon or compressed rawhide is most desir-able because it is most easily digested if swallowed. Regular rawhides,pig ears, and similar substances are fine if the dog takes its time andchews slowly. For those dogs that don’t take the time to chew, avoidgiving these items altogether because they can cause serious stomachupset and even intestinal blockage if swallowed whole. Also, somedogs have difficulty differentiating rawhide from refined leather,which could put your new pair of shoes in serious jeopardy! Rubberchew toys should be solid and sturdy so that they cannot be easilyripped apart by sharp puppy teeth. Avoid chew toys with plastic“squeaks” in them. Most dogs can extract these mechanisms too easily,only to swallow them or aspirate them into their airways Regardless ofthe type of chew toy you pick, choose it as you would a child’s toy. Ifits design is such that it could cause suffocation or serious problemsif swallowed, put it back and choose a safer one.Avoid using old socks, shoes, or sweatshirts as substitute toys foryour dog because it won’t be able to tell the difference between old andnew. Allow a puppy to chew on an old shoe or sweatshirt while stillan adolescent, and you might find it fancying your expensive leathershoes or tennis warmups when it grows up.When selecting toys for your new kitten or cat, be sure that theycannot be torn apart easily and that they do not contain small partsthat could be swallowed. Wrinkled paper and shoeboxes are intriguingto most cats. Rubber balls or mice too large to swallow, as well as cat-nip toys (again, constructed for safety), are also considered safe toys. Ifa string is attached to a toy in order to entice a cat to play, alwaysremove it after the play session is over. Along the same lines, never useribbon or laces as play items. If a cat swallows such items, they coulddamage their intestines and have to be removed surgically.It is fine to play intensely with a puppy or kitten, but overt rough-housing should be avoided. If a play session progresses from a friendlyromp to an all-out frontal assault, end it immediately. Your pet needs tolearn how to keep its activity level to a socially acceptable intensity.Also, be sure that the youngster gets plenty of time to rest after an espe-cially active play period.CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU27
  • 50. The same rules of mod-eration apply to chewing.It is perfectly natural for apuppy to want to exploreits environment with itsmouth. During play, therewill be times when thepup will bite and nip toomuch or too hard. Whenthis occurs, shout “No,”pull your arm or leg away,and provide a chew toy asa substitute. In essence,what you want to tell yourpup is that it is fine to useits mouth to explore, justas long as it knows itslimits (Fig. 1.11). You’llbe surprised how quicklythey learn!28 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 1.11 Make sure that your puppy learnsthe rules of play early!
  • 51. Training Essentials2C H A P T E RProper training is definitely the key to a happy owner-pet relationship.It establishes your dominance in the relationship between you andyour pet right from the start, and it can help prevent many behavioralchallenges from rearing their ugly heads later on. Solid training canalso keep your pet out of troublesome situations that could threatenboth its health and yours (Fig. 2.1)!There is one characteristic exhibited by every good trainer: patience.Without this virtue, you’re going to have a tough time teaching yourpet anything. You need to set aside time each day for training andresolve to stick to it. Keep in mind that it will only be a temporary dipinto your time budget. After all, the more time you devote from thestart, the quicker and more satisfying the results will be.What about training school? Is it worth the time and the money?The answer is “Yes” if it will motivate you to devote the time for thetask at hand. You still have to be physically present during the train-ing (you can’t have someone else train your dog, and then expect yourstar pupil to respond likewise to your commands). If you choose thisroute, enroll in an active-participation class in which an instructordirects you and your dog through the training session. However, keepin mind that such a class doesn’t relieve you of your homework duties.You still need to practice with your pooch daily on your home turf.29
  • 52. Main Principles ofTrainingFor any training method tobe effective, it must followsome basic principles toensure its success. Someof these principles aredescribed in the followingparagraphs.Consistency andRepetitionThe magic success formulafor all training endeavors isderived from two key con-cepts: consistency and repe-tition. Consistency providesthe building blocks; repeti-tion is the mortar that holdsthe program together. With-out the two, you might aswell try to teach a rock howto fetch. The results will bethe same!Consistency means morethan just using the samecommands over and overagain. It also means usingthe same praises and correc-tions each time and keepingyour voice tones consis-tently unique for each. Evenyour body language andpostures used during train-ing should remain uniformbetween sessions. As trivial30 DOGS AND CATSDogs learn in primarily two ways. Themost basic type of learning, calledhabituation, is characterized by adiminishing response to a repeatedstimulus over time. In the second typeof learning, called associative learning,a dog creates a “link” between two ormore different types of actions, results,and/or stimuli (e.g., food rewards fordesired behavior). Socialization isregarded as a form of this associativelearning.DID YOU KNOW?FIGURE 2.1 Proper training will enhance yourrelationship with your dog.
  • 53. as it might seem, pets pickup on stuff like that. Dogsand cats also like routine, sostick to it. Train at the samehour each day and for thesame length of time for eachdaily session.Just as important as con-sistency to a dog or cat’slearning process is repeti-tion. Repeating an action ortraining drill over and overwill help reinforce the posi-tive response you are lookingfor. Furthermore, the morerepetition you implement into training, the leaner and more refinedyour pet’s learned skills become (Fig. 2.2).Verbal PraiseUse verbal praise instead of physical pain in your training sessions.Food treats are fine as a reward supplement, but they should neverreplace verbal compliments. Punishment might be warranted if yourpet purposely disobeys a command or commits an undesirable act, butthis should never take the form of physical punishment. There arealternative means, each of which is at least just as effective as physicalviolence.PunishmentDogs and cats can be reprimanded effectively with a sharp verbal “No.”Water sprayers, air horns, a can full of coins, handheld vacuums, andso on can all be used to gainyour pet’s attention quicklywithout inflicting any pain.If you decide to use pun-ishment, be sure to instituteit quickly, preferably within5 seconds of the act. If youTRAINING ESSENTIALS31F I G U R E 2 . 2 All cats should be trained to a har-ness and leash.When training, always endyour session on a positivenote. This will greatly accelerate yourresults.DR. P’S VET TIP
  • 54. don’t apply it before thistime expires, any punish-ment thereafter might satisfyyour anger, but it will serveno useful training purpose.Don’t extend your punish-ment past a few seconds.Prolonged exhortations willonly confuse your pet (andmight cause you to lose yourvoice).Never use your pet’s name during the negative reinforcement. Ifyou do, your pet might start to associate its name with the bad act andeventually become a basket case whenever the name is called. Reservethis name calling for positive, happy experiences only.If you do punish, always follow it up shortly thereafter with a com-mand or drill that will lead to a praise situation. Remember that the mosteffective training programs rely on praise more than on punishment. Forsome dogs, simply withholding praise from them is punishment enoughto modify their behavior! By rewarding your pet for doing good ratherthan punishing it for doing bad, you’ll get the positive results you arelooking for much faster.Other Suggestions1. Get the whole family involved. In any training situation, alwaystry to involve all members of the family. An all-too-common scenariois one in which a pet virtually ignores the commands of anyone but theone person who trained it. To avoid this, get the whole familyinvolved. Just be sure to remain consistent within the family withregard to the training methods and commands used.2. Use short commands. All verbal commands you employ needto be kept short and sweet. Using slightly different voice tones for eachcommand will help prevent confusion. If verbal punishment is to beused, make certain that it is totally different in tone and in presenta-tion than the other commands.3. Start young. Always start your pet’s training at an early age.While it is true that certain advanced training techniques can be best32 DOGS AND CATSSticking a dog’s nose in its stool orurine is an effective form of punish-ment. C’mon, who thoughtof this one! For some reason, this typeof punishment is still quite popularamong pet owners, even though itserves no useful purpose. Dogs areattracted to the smell of this stuff,anyway!F I C T I O N .A C T OR F I C T I O NF
  • 55. taught at around 6 months of age, basic training, including housetrain-ing for dogs, should be started as early as 8 weeks of age. If basic com-mand training is not taught this early in life, bad habits arise later on,some of which can put a damper on future training efforts.4. Keep training sessions short. Try to keep the training sessionsshort and to the point. For puppies and kittens 8 to 12 weeks of age,devoting 10 minutes two to three times daily will yield excellentresults. As your pet matures, the length of each of these sessions canincrease. Let your pet’s attitude be your judge. If it seems bored orindifferent, or has become totally unruly, you have probably exceededits attention span.5. End on a good note. Always end your training session on agood note. Doing so is very constructive in terms of your pet’s mentaldevelopment, and effectively sets the tone for the next session.Socializing and Desensitizing Your PetThere is no doubt that the most important time in a new puppy orkitten’s life is between the ages of 3 and 12 weeks. During this shorttimespan, the adolescent will learn who it is, who you are, and whoand what all of those other living, moving beings surrounding it are aswell. This stage of life in which such vital learning takes place iscalled the socialization period (Fig. 2.3).If for some reason a puppy or kitten fails to be properly introduced tomembers of its own species or to other species (including children) dur-ing this time, then there is a good chance that it will not recognizeTRAINING ESSENTIALS33F I G U R E 2 . 3 Dogs and cats can become best of friends if socialized at an early age.
  • 56. these individuals for what orwho they are, and it mighteven show aggressivenesstoward them. For example,dogs intended for breedingpurposes must be properlysocialized to members oftheir own species if they areto be expected to breed withone of these members. Also,prime examples of dogs notproperly socialized includethose that show extremeaggressiveness to men only,or those aggressive to chil-dren. Dogs in particular seepeople as two species: bigpeople and little people. Asa result, while a dog mightrecognize an adult personas the one who feeds andcommands it, it might not recognize a small toddler as one who com-mands the same respect if the pet is never properly socialized to smallchildren (Fig. 2.4). Some dogs aren’t fit for any type of human interac-tion at all. These have absolutely no socialization whatsoever andcould pose a threat to humans.Improper or negative socialization is even worse than no socializa-tion at all. Any traumatic experience or physical punishment thatoccurs before 12 weeks of age could permanently scar a pet’s person-ality to a specific group or species for life. For instance, dogs or catsthat exhibit a fear of men were most likely abused by a member of thissex during the socialization period. This is one reason why all physi-cal punishment should be avoided during this time in your pet’s life.Such activity could damage its relationship with the person doing thepunishing for life!The existence of this socialization period is one reason why youshould select puppies and kittens less than 12 weeks of age whenchoosing a new companion. If you don’t, you have no way of knowing34 DOGS AND CATSF I G U R E 2 . 4 All dogs must be properly social-ized to children.
  • 57. whether proper socializa-tion has taken place, and youmight be faced with behav-ioral problems in the future.Socializing a pet is not diffi-cult if you remember to keepall interactions positive andto guard against any physi-cally and emotionally trau-matic situations (Fig. 2.5).Before introducing a newpuppy or kitten to other ani-mals, be sure that it and theother animals are current onvaccinations and dewormings. In addition, always be sure that the ani-mals you are planning to introduce it to are socialized themselves, orelse you could have a battle on your hands.Weekend excursions to a park and/or neighborhood strolls aresome of the more opportune ways of introducing your new pet to otheranimals and to other adults and children. Allow children to freelyinteract with your puppy or kitten, but again, be sure that none gets toorough. For best results, you should repeat such encounters throughoutits socialization period. And by all means praise your pet for goodbehavior during these interactions. It will leave a lasting impressionon its personality (Fig. 2.6)!One word of caution: Socialization, like any personality skill, caneventually be lost if it is not reinforced periodically. As a result, evenas your dog or cat matures,don’t just discard those tripsto the park or strolls throughthe neighborhood. Remem-ber: You have to use it orlose it!Desensitization trainingis often overlooked by mostnew pet owners, yet it canbe one of the most valuabletools for preventing stressTRAINING ESSENTIALS35F I G U R E 2 . 5 Socialization is just as importantfor cats as it is for dogs.Cats may socialize to one breed of dogbut not to another!DID YOU KNOW?F I G U R E 2 . 6 The power of socialization!
  • 58. and behavioral problems as their dog or cat matures. There are threetypes of desensitization that need to be accomplished: (1) contact desen-sitization, (2) separation desensitization, and (3) noise desensitization.The first two types should be instituted at 8 weeks of age, and the thirdshould commence at 16 weeks of age.The first type, contact desensitization training, will condition yourpet to allow its haircoat, feet, ears, and mouth region to be handled.This is vitally important for your pet’s preventive health care program,for it will allow you to brush hair, trim nails, brush teeth, and cleanears without a fight! When interacting with your puppy or kitten,make a special effort to gently touch these regions with your fingersseveral times a day. Don’t attempt to perform any of the grooming pro-cedures mentioned above with the actual utensils; instead, simply gothrough the motions with your hands and fingers. Soon, your puppy orkitten won’t think twice when you reach out and grasp a paw or anearflap. Once it has been desensitized to your touch, then you gradu-ate up to actual grooming utensils. Just remember to temporarily discon-tinue your efforts if a struggle ensues. Any negative or painfulexperience involving these regions during your initial training effortscan produce the exact opposite effect and create an individual thatwill struggle vehemently when attempts are made to perform thesesimple procedures.The goal of separation desensitization training is to desensitize apet to being left alone by itself. This is especially important in dogsbecause of their “pack” mentality; however, it can apply to cats aswell. As far as dogs are concerned, separation desensitization trainingwill help prevent one of the most common behavioral disorders seenin the species: separation anxiety. You can start by placing your puppyin its travel kennel and leaving the house for a predetermined periodof time (a few minutes at a time for the first day, then gradually work-ing up over several weeks to 20 to 30 minutes departures each day),being careful not to make a fuss over your puppy or respond to itsprotests before you leave. In addition, when you reenter the house,wait several minutes before you let your pet out of its kennel, doingyour best to ignore its pleas. When you do finally let it out, take itimmediately outside to use the bathroom. Act as though your arrivalsand departures are “nothing special,” and your puppy will soon acqui-esce to being left alone (see discussion of behavioral disorders).36 DOGS AND CATS
  • 59. Desensitization to strange or loud noises should also be performedwhen a puppy or kitten is still young. The easiest method for accom-plishing this training is to regularly expose your young pet to recordingsof various sounds, such as thunder, lightning, and fireworks. Compactdisks containing these sounds and others are available at most bookand record stores, or can be tracked down over the Internet. Playingthese recordings while in the presence of your pet for 15 minutesdaily, adjusting the volume up over a 3- to 6-week period, will usuallyachieve the desired desensitizationBasic Training for DogsSome tools of the trade you’ll want to acquire to assist you in yourcanine training efforts include a leash, a 20- to 25-foot rope with an endclasp attached, and a sturdy collar or harness. If you decide to use a slipor choke chain collar, read the package directions and make certain thatyou know how to use it properly; otherwise, serious damage to yourpet’s neck and trachea could result. Because this device can be easilymisused, many veterinarians recommend not using them unless youare a seasoned trainer. A better alternative is to use a head collar (i.e., aGentle Leader®). This device applies pressure to the back of the neckand to the muzzle (without inflicting pain or pressure on the trachea),allowing you to effectively control your dog’s head during training.If your new puppy or dog is not used to wearing a collar (halter),harness, or leash, you must get it accustomed to them prior to any train-ing efforts. Start by placing a collar, halter, or harness on your dog andallowing it to wear it around the house for several days. Once you thinkyour dog feels fairly comfortable with it on, attach a leash to the claspand allow your dog to walk around with the leash dragging behind. Toprotect your dog from snagging furniture or other objects with the leashand hurting itself, you should supervise these sessions. After about sixto eight sessions over the course of 2 days, your dog should feel morecomfortable with its leash being attached to its collar, halter, or harness,and should be ready for further instruction (Fig. 2.7a).HeelThe first command you will teach your four-legged student is to heel,or walk at your side (Fig. 2.7b). To begin, position yourself on yourTRAINING ESSENTIALS37
  • 60. dog’s right side facing forward,with its shoulders even with yourleft knee. Take up the slack on theleash to prevent your dog frombecoming entangled in theexcess. Now, in simultaneousfashion, give a quick forward tugon the lead, say “heel,” and startforward with your left foot lead-ing. As your dog follows, keep itshead level and in control usingthe leash. Start out by going 5yards at a time, then stopping topraise for a job well done.If your dog refuses to move onyour initial command, go back tothe starting line and set up again.This time, if needed, follow thequick tug with an encouraging pullon the lead to initiate movement.Start and stop frequently, praisingas you go. As your dog starts tocatch on, increase the distance yougo each time. The ultimate goal isto have your dog walk briskly byyour side until a command isgiven to do otherwise.If your dog gets too far out in front of you, a quick, backward tugon the lead should be used to correct the discrepancy. For thosetrainees more interested in playing rather than learning, stop thetraining session temporarily until your dog settles down. Don’t scoldor show any other acknowledgment of its antics. It will soon learnthat you mean business!Once your dog has become comfortable walking in straight linesby your side, take it through some turns both to the right and to theleft. During the turns, your dog’s shoulder should remain aligned withyour knee.38 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 2.7a All dogs should be taughtto walk on a leash.
  • 61. StopOnce your dog respondsfavorably to the heel com-mand, it is time to teach it thecommand “stop.” With yourdog heeling at your side, givea sharp backward tug on theleash as you say “stop,” andhalt your forward motion.(The verbal exclamation dif-ferentiates this from the back-ward tug used to slow anoverenergized heeler.) Holdthe stop for 3 seconds, thenpraise heavily for compliance.Afterward, have your dog heelagain, and repeat the processover and over again, gradu-ally increasing the amount oftime you require your pet toremain still.Sit and StayFrom the “stop” position, pull upward on your dog’s lead while at thesame time saying “sit,” and pushing down on its rear end to achievethe sitting position (Fig. 2.8). Have your dog maintain this posture fora good 5 seconds, then break into a heel. Gradually increase the sittinginterval as your training progresses.When your dog has learned what “sit” and “stop” mean, it’s time toteach the “stay” command (Fig. 2.9). This is where your 20-foot ropelead comes in handy. Attach this to the collar and walk your dog againthrough the heel-stop-sit routine. Once your dog is in the sitting posi-tion, place your left hand in front of its face and say “stay.” Nowslowly walk about 3 yards away, keeping your back to your dog. If itbreaks its “stay” when you move, reel your dog in with the lead, andmake it immediately return to the sitting position. Then try again.TRAINING ESSENTIALS39FIGURE 2.7b Teaching your dog to “heel.”
  • 62. If the student stays inplace even for 3 secondsafter you walk away, heapon bundles of praise. If yourdog still disobeys, walk itthrough your heel-stop-sitroutine a few more timesbefore returning to the“stay” command. As yourpet starts to catch on, youcan begin increasing the dis-tances you go and timeintervals for it to stay put.Other Commands“Heel,” “stop,” “sit,” and“stay” are the basic obedi-ence commands that youshould start teaching yourdog as early as 8 weeks ofage. Two other commandsthat are optional, yet couldcome in handy in certaininstances, are “down” and“come.”“Down” should be in-cluded as an adjunct to the“sit” command. After yourdog is in the sitting position,utter the command whileapplying downward pres-sure with your free hand toits shoulder region. Note thedifference from the “sit”command, in which down-ward pressure is applied to the hind end. Now, from this down position,you can proceed into the “stay” drill.40 DOGS AND CATSF I G U R E 2 . 9 The “stay” command.F I G U R E 2 . 8 The “sit” command.
  • 63. “Come” can be taught as a continuation of the “stay” command.With your dog sitting or lying at rope’s length, give a quick forward tugwhile saying the command “come.” Again, use the lead to reel it in ifit decides to wander off track. Praise your dog only if it comes directlyto you from its original starting position.When, and only when, your dog has mastered these commands andresponds to them consistently can you discard the leash or lead. Foroff-leash training, repeat each command sequence as before. Don’t hes-itate to put the lead back on if your dog fails to cooperate. At first, it isespecially important to hold all off-leash training sessions in fenced-inyards or other enclosed areas to prevent you star pupil from dashingoff into the sunset!Housebreaking Your PuppyPuppies should be housebroken at an early age, preferably as close to8 weeks old as possible (Fig. 2.10) because this is when the period ofstable learning begins in adolescent dogs. Their minds are wide opento suggestions, and they learn quite quickly at this early stage of life.If you expect to yield successful results, you must be willing todevote some quality time to the task. Recognize that puppies have fourfairly predictable elimination times:1. After waking2. After eating3. After exercising4. Just before retiring forthe nightMake a concerted effortto take your puppy outsideat these times, and every 3to 4 hours in between. Whenyou suspect that it has togo, take your pup outsideand set it down in the grass.TRAINING ESSENTIALS41FIGURE 2.10 When housebreaking a puppy,use lots of praise and avoid punishment.
  • 64. If elimination takes place, praise your puppy, and then take it imme-diately back inside the house. By doing so, you will help it associatethe act with the location.If a minute passes and your puppy hasn’t gone, take it back inside.Don’t leave it outside to play or roam. Puppies trained in this mannersoon realize that their primary business for being outside is to elimi-nate, not to play. What happens if you catch your puppy in midact? Ifthis is the case, go ahead and rush it outside. The puppy might finishwhat it started before you make it out the door, but don’t get upset.Again, praise it immensely for going outside, and then bring it imme-diately back inside.If you happen to miss an accident altogether, don’t fret. If you sawit happen, a verbal punishment is warranted. On the other hand, if youdidn’t see it happen, do nothing. Simply try to be more attentive nexttime.Other housetraining tips to remember are1. Be sure that your puppy is current on its vaccines (since it willbe going outside) and is free of intestinal parasites. The latter isvery important because the presence of worms in the intestinaltract will cause unpredictable urges to eliminate.2. Always use lots of praise; never physically punish. Again,remember that puppies crave praise, and if they don’t get it, theyfeel punished. Give plenty of praise when they deserve it; holdit back when they don’t.3. When verbal punishment is indicated, avoid associating yourpuppy’s name with the reprimand. For instance, simply say“bad,” instead of “bad dog, Sugar.” By leaving names out of it,the puppy won’t associate its name with the bad behavior.4. Establish a regular feeding schedule for your new puppy. Feedno more than twice daily, and take your puppy outside after itfinishes each meal. It is preferable to feed the evening portionbefore 6:00 P.M. in order to help reduce the number of overnightaccidents that can occur otherwise.5. To help prevent accidents, keep your puppy in a confined areaat night. It should be puppyproofed and have a floor that won’t42 DOGS AND CATS
  • 65. be damaged if a slipup occurs. Utility rooms and half-bathroomswork well for this purpose, as do kitchens if they can be corneredoff. If accidents occurs during the night or while you are away,don’t get upset. As your training sessions progress, you’ll findthat this will become less and less of a problem. A natural instinctof any canine is to keep its “den” clean. These inherent instincts,combined with correct housetraining efforts on your part, willhelp fuel the success of your training efforts.6. When cleaning up an accident, always use an odor neutralizerrather than a deodorizer on the area in question. These are avail-able at most pet stores, and will usually eliminate any lingeringscents that can lure your pet back to the same spot. Avoid usingammonia-based cleaners, since ammonia is a normal componentof canine urine. Such cleaners might serve to attract, rather thanto repel, repeat offenders.Basic Training for CatsContrary to popular belief, some cats can be just as trainable as dogs.Keep in mind, though, that the independent nature of cats can makecertain training procedures a bit tricky, but if you maintain an under-standing attitude toward your task, your frustrations will be minimaland your rewards plentiful.As with dogs, all cats should be trained to walk on a leash at anearly age. Why? By teaching your cat to accept a leash and harness,you will be able to institute a daily exercise program for it, keeping itfit and healthy. In addition, since allowing a cat to roam freely out-doors these days is becoming more dangerous, a leash-trained cat canenjoy the same benefits of the great outdoors, yet without the risks.Finally, many travelers find that leash training comes in quite handy atrest stops during lengthy trips.Before you attach a leash to your kitten or cat, it must becomeaccustomed to a halter. Because halters provide more control andsecurity than do collars, the latter should not be used to walk a cat ona leash. Place the new halter on your cat and allow it to wear it aroundthe house for 10 to 15 minutes at a time. Then take it off, and repeat theprocess at 3-hour intervals throughout the day. Eventually lengthenTRAINING ESSENTIALS43
  • 66. the time you leave the halter on until your cat will wear it all day with-out a fuss.At this point, attach a leash to the halter and allow your cat to dragthe leash around for 10 to 15 minutes at a time before removing it. Repeatthis procedure throughout the day for a week or so. Do not allow yourcat to walk around unsupervised with the leash dangling free. If theleash becomes snagged, your cat could seriously injure itself.Once you feel that your cat has become accustomed to the leash,practice walking with it indoors using the lead for a week or two. Onlyafter your cat gives you total compliance should you attempt the samemaneuver outdoors. If everything goes as planned, be sure to rewardyour cat for a job well done. A scratch behind the ears or under thechin, or a favorite food treat, does wonders to help solidify and pro-mote such desired behavior.If you so desire, teach your cat commands as you would a dog.Remember: Because of the very nature of the feline, you can’t alwaysexpect 100 percent compliance; simply take all successes and run withthem! One helpful tip is to hold your training sessions when your catis hungry. If you do so, food rewards become powerful motivators forgood behavior.Litter Training Your KittenKittens will be instinctively drawn to litter or dirt in which to elimi-nate as early as 4 to 6 weeks of age. As a result, housebreaking a kittenusually involves minimaleffort on an owner’s part(Fig. 2.11). Allowing accessof your new kitten to its lit-terbox after eating, playing,waking up, or just beforebedtime will help encour-age repeat use. If your catdoesn’t seem to catch on,there might be some reasonfor its reluctance to use thelitterbox. If so, it is your jobto find out why.44 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 2.11 Most kittens will learn to use alitterbox without your help.
  • 67. Solving Challenging BehaviorsWhen searching for the leading cause of dissatisfaction among petowners, problem behaviors top the list. Each year, a multitude of dogsand cats are abandoned, evicted from their homes, or even put to sleepbecause of annoying behavioral activity. However, by understandingand employing special training techniques and/or therapy to correctsuch vices, and by allowing veterinarians to play active roles in thetreatment process, pet owners can often avoid such drastic actions.Canine Behavioral DisordersThe most common behavioral disorders you may encounter with yourdog include separation anxiety, nuisance barking, inappropriate elim-ination, digging, destructive chewing, jumping, fear of loud noises,and aggressiveness.Separation AnxietyIt has happened to many of us: We leave the house, sometimes for onlya few minutes, and our “best friend” proceeds to chew up the furni-ture, bark or howl, and/or eliminate in the house. If your dog behavesthis way when you leave your home, it is probably suffering from thebehavioral problem known as separation anxiety. (Note: Medical prob-lems can be the cause of such aberrant behavior; these must be ruledout before you can safely assume that you are dealing with a case ofseparation anxiety.) Before you can successfully treat a problem likeseparation anxiety, it is helpful to know what causes it.Dogs are considered pack animals; that is, they prefer to associatein groups rather than act as loners. Because you are its owner, a dogwill consider you part of its “pack” and will constantly want to asso-ciate with you. When youleave, you separate the dogfrom its pack, and this cre-ates separation anxiety (Fig.2.12). This behavior will bemagnified if you tend tomake a big fuss over the dogwhen leaving or returningTRAINING ESSENTIALS45For cases of separation anxi-ety that are refractory toconventional management, veterinarianscan prescribe specific antianxiety med-ications to help effect a cure.DR. P’S VET TIP
  • 68. to the house. Furthermore,certain other behavioral pat-terns on your part, such asrattling the car keys or turn-ing off the television, can beassociated to your departureby the dog.When treating separationanxiety, you must remem-ber that it is an instinctivebehavior; it is not due todisobedience and/or lack oftraining. As a result, overtpunishment for the act tendsto be unrewarding. In fact,most of these dogs would rather be punished than left alone! The keyto treating this problem lies in planning short-term departures, thengradually lengthening them until your dog gets used to your absence.Begin by stepping out of the house for 10 seconds at a time for thefirst few days or so. Hopefully this will allow your dog to get used toyou leaving the house, since it will learn that you will return soon.Vary your training session times throughout the day. The idea is togradually lengthen your absences (30 seconds at first, then 1 minute,then 2 minutes, etc.) so that your departures soon become secondnature to the dog.Points to keep in mind when attempting to break your dog of thisannoying behavior are as follows:1. Don’t make a fuss over your dog within 5 to 10 minutes of yourarrival to or departure from home. This will help keep theexcitement and anxiety levels in your dog to a minimum. Duringyour training sessions, try not to reenter the house while the dogis performing the undesirable act. Doing so will only serve toencourage the dog to repeat the act.2. Eliminate any behavior that might key the dog off to yourdeparture, such as rattling your car keys or saying “goodbye” toyour dog.46 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 2.12 Dogs enjoy spending time withother members of their “pack.”
  • 69. 3. For the dog that likes to chew a lot, provide plenty of nylonchew bones to occupy its time.4. Leaving the television or radio on while you’re gone seems tohelp in some cases.For severe cases of separation anxiety that fail to respond to desensitiza-tion training, an antianxiety medication, prescribed by a veterinarian,may be necessary.Excessive (Nuisance) BarkingLet’s face it: Some dogs just love to hear their own voices! Unfortunately,most owners and their neighbors hardly share the same adoration.There is no doubt that dogs that bark excessively are a nuisance andcan cause many a sleepless night. For this reason, correction of the prob-lem is essential to your sanity, and that of those who live around you.A dog might bark excessively for a number of reasons. The first isboredom. Dogs that have nothing else to do might simply “sing” tothemselves to whittle time away.Another potential cause is territoriality. Outsiders, whether humanor animal, will almost always elicit a bark out of a dog if threatening toencroach on its territory. Dogs can also use the bark indiscriminatelyas a communiqué to other outsiders to stay away. In such instances,the far-off bay of a neighborhood dog or the slamming of a car doordown the street can trigger a barking episode.Separation anxiety is another common source of nuisance barking.Some dogs have it so bad that they bark continuously when their ownerleaves them, even for a short period of time. Often, owners returnhome to find their dogs hoarse from so much barking.When attempting to break your dog of this annoying habit, alwaysremember this one principle: If you respond to your dog’s barking fitby yelling at it or physically punishing it, you will make the problemworse. Dogs that are isolated from their owners for most of the day don’tcare about what kind of attention they receive (positive or negative), aslong as they get some. Dogs that are barking because of boredom orseparation anxiety will soon learn that their actions will eventually getthem attention, and they’ll keep doing it. Even dogs that are barkingfor other reasons can catch on quickly that such vocalization will bringTRAINING ESSENTIALS47
  • 70. them a bonus of attention from their beloved owners. As a result, nomatter how mad you get, or how sleepy you are, avoid the urge to pun-ish your dog for its barking.The first thing you need to determine is whether separation anxietyhas anything to do with the problem. If you think it does, treat it as youwould any other case of separation anxiety. In many cases, dogs thatbark for this reason alone can be cured of their habit.Keep in mind, though, that the source of the barking might involvea combination of the factors, not just one. Dogs that bark for reasonsother than separation anxiety need to be given more attention through-out the day. A dog that tends to bark through the night should be givenplenty of exercise in the evening to encourage a good night’s sleep. Anylon or rawhide chew bone can be helpful at diverting its attention.Feeding the dog its daily ration later in the evening can also promotecontentment for the night.For those times of the day or night when the barking seems theworst, consider bringing the dog inside the house or the garage. This,of course, will not be possible if you failed to instruct your dog as tothe ways of household living when it was a puppy. Nevertheless,removing your dog from its primary territory and/or increasing theamount of contact with members of its pack can help curb the urge tobark. Also, if possible, encourage your neighbors to keep their petsindoors at night, since nighttime roaming of neighborhood dogs andcats is a major cause of nuisance barking.Inappropriate EliminationIt has happened to all of us: the early morning encounter in the familyroom or the unexpected (or sometimes expected) surprise awaiting ourarrival home from work—house soiling. It is a dirty habit, yet one thatmillions of pet owners have to put up with each day. In many of thesecases, the problem has an origin traceable to puppyhood; for others, itresults from developmental behavioral and/or health problems.Regardless of the cause, pet owners can take an active role in mostcases to minimize or stop completely this annoying habit.Don’t think that you will break your dog of this nasty habit by stick-ing its face and nose in the excrement after the fact. Not only is thisaction illogical and inappropriate for the particular situation; some dogs48 DOGS AND CATS
  • 71. might even enjoy it! Instead,pet owners need to take amore rational approach toidentifying the cause andsolving the problem. To dothat, you must first deter-mine what is causing it.LACK OF OR INADEQUATEHOUSETRAININGThe most common cause ofhouse soiling is undoubt-edly the failure of an ownerto housetrain the dog prop-erly during its puppyhood (Fig. 2.13). Many pet owners can’t under-stand why their puppy has no problems going on newspaper, but justcan’t get the knack of going outside. They seem to forget that, to a puppy,newspaper and grass are two different surfaces with different smells.To paper-train a puppy and then expect it to switch easily to anothertype of surface is asking a lot, and this often presents a confusingdilemma to the poor creature.Puppies need to be taught right from the start to go outside to usethe bathroom instead of encouraging them to go within the confinesof the home. At the same time, dogs that will be spending a greatdeal of time outside need to be housetrained as puppies, in case theneed arises later in life to bring them indoors for whatever reason. Ifyou miss this chance when it is a puppy, you could be in for troublelater on.Contrary to popular opinion, you can teach an old dog new tricks;it just takes longer! With older canines that weren’t properly potty-trained, proceed with training or retraining as you would with apuppy. Along with lots of praise, a favorite treat or snack can also beused to reinforce desired behavior. For those times you can’t be athome to monitor indoor activity, confine your dog to a travel kennel orsmall bathroom, since dogs are less likely to have premeditated acci-dents in such confined spaces. Just be reasonable as to the amount oftime you make it wait between eliminations.TRAINING ESSENTIALS49FIGURE 2.13 The cause of house soiling mustbe determined before effective treatment can beinstituted.
  • 72. SEPARATION ANXIETYInappropriate elimination activity can, as do many other behavioralproblems, result from separation anxiety. Dogs left alone may becomefrustrated and soil one or more parts of the house. Some dogs can evenbecome downright spiteful, targeting favorite furniture, bedding, and,if kept in the garage, even the roofs of automobiles. If your dog is trulysuffering from separation anxiety, most of its adverse behavior willoccur within 15 to 20 minutes of your departure. This predictabilitycan assist in efforts to correct the problem. Treat this as you would anyother case of separation anxiety.DESIRE TO DELINEATE TERRITORYThe desire to delineate territory is another reason why a dog maychoose to urinate (or sometimes defecate) indiscriminately. Certainly,intact (nonneutered) male dogs are more prone to this instinctiveactivity. Dogs have such a keen sense of smell that the mere presenceof a canine trespasser around the perimeter of the home can set off aurine-marking binge. Owners who move into preowned homes oftenfind out the hard way that the previous owners had a poorly trained orhighly territorial pet housed within.Neutering your pet may or may not help solve this problem,depending on its age. In many older males, house soiling has becomemore habitual than hormonal, and neutering does little to prevent it.Use of a pet odor neutralizer on the carpet and baseboards is war-ranted if you suspect that a previous occupant is to blame. Use of fencingor dog repellent (not poison!) around the perimeter of the house mayalso help keep persistent urine-markers away from your house.EXTREMELY SUBMISSIVE BEHAVIORExtremely submissive behavior often results in a cowering dog thaturinates whenever anyone approaches. This type of adverse elimina-tion is common in dogs that have been abused as puppies or havespent most of their growing years in a kennel or pound facility.Management of such behavior depends on your actions and bodylanguage when approaching or greeting such a dog. Try to avoid directeye contact and sudden physical contact with such dogs, for by doing so,you can send them into immediate submissiveness. If you’ve been gone50 DOGS AND CATS
  • 73. from the house for a while, avoid sudden and exuberant greetings whenyou get home. By ignoring your dog initially, you’ll lower its excitementlevel, reduce the immediate threat, and give it no reason to urinate.One trick you can try is to immediately and casually walk over toyour dog’s food bowl and place some food or treats in it. The idea isto distract your dog’s attention away from the excitement of yourarrival and create a more comfortable, pleasing situation for it. Onceyou’ve been home a while, then you can (and should) offer more ofyour attention.ILLNESS OR DISEASEFinally, don’t forget that some diseases or illnesses can cause a pet tourinate or defecate indiscriminately. For instance, dogs that tend todefecate inside the house should be checked for internal parasites.Diets with increased fiber content can also increase the number of tripsyour pet will need to take outdoors.Certainly if the stools are semiformed or seem to differ from normalappearance or consistency, an underlying medical reason should besuspected. In addition, some of the conditions that can increase thefrequency and/or urge to urinate include urinary tract infections, kid-ney disease, and diabetes mellitus. Urinary incontinence, character-ized by the inability of the bladder to retain urine because of poorsphincter function, is common in older dogs. For these reasons, don’tjust assume that your dog’s soiling problem is purely mental. Have thepotential medical causes ruled out first; then you can concentrate onbehavioral modification.Just a word about cleaning up an accident in the house. When usingcleaners to tackle the initial mess, be sure that they don’t containammonia. Dog urine contains a form of ammonia, and such productsmight actually attract your dog back to the same spot later on. Alongthis same line, after the initial manual cleaning, your next job is toensure that residual smell doesn’t attract your pet back to the samespot. To accomplish this, you need to employ a product containingodor neutralizers specifically targeted for dogs. These products areavailable at grocery stores or pet shops. Deodorizers should not beused, for it is virtually impossible to completely mask or hide a scentfrom the keen canine nose.TRAINING ESSENTIALS51
  • 74. DiggingAlthough separation anxietycan cause digging episodes,its influence on this behav-ior is much less than withother problem behaviors.Instead, sheer boredom and/or instinctive behavior arethe two common states ofmind that compel a dog todig (Fig. 2.14).Dogs with nothing else to do might opt for yard excavation just tohelp pass the time or to use up extra energy. The urge to break out ofconfinement and roam the neighborhood can also compel a dog to startdigging. Finally, as you might have already experienced, many dogslike to bury personal items such as bones or toys for exhumation at alater date. Such instinctive behavior, although aggravating, can hardlybe considered abnormal, and is difficult to totally eliminate.Increasing your dog’s daily dose of exercise could be just whatthe doctor ordered to help resolve its boredom and release any pent-up energy. Diverting the attention of a chronic digger is another plau-sible treatment approach. For instance, some troublesome cases haveresponded very well to the addition of another canine playmate.Rawhide bones and other chewing devices can also be used as attention-grabbers, but only if they don’t end up underground themselves. Ifmost of the digging occurs at night, overnight confinement to the garagemight be the answer to spare your yard from the ravages of claws.Finally, if you haven’t already done it, neutering can sometimes helpsnuff out the strong urge to dig in those dogs wanting to escape theyard and roam the neighborhood.Destructive ChewingMany canines are literally “in the doghouse” with their owners becauseof their destructive chewing. No one wants a pet that seeks and destroysany inanimate object into which it can sink its teeth. However, theurgency for dealing with such behavior is not governed merelyby personal property damage. Many of these chewers also end up in52 DOGS AND CATSF I G U R E 2 . 1 4 Digging behavior is often causedby instinct or by sheer boredom.
  • 75. veterinary hospitals sufferingfrom gastroenteritis or intesti-nal obstructions. Hence, suchadverse activity can costmore than just replacementvalue of furniture or fixtures.It can even sometimes costthe life of a pet!In puppies, destructivechewing can easily arise fromlack of training and frominappropriate selection oftoys (Fig. 2.15). Althoughpuppies are naturally goingto explore their environmentwith their mouths, they needto learn at an early age what isand isn’t acceptable to chewon. Solid command trainingis a must in these little guys.Avoid providing normalhousehold items such as oldshoes, T-shirts, or sweatshirts as toys to play with. Puppies can’t tell thedifference between old and new shoes, and they might decide to try outyour new pair for a snack one afternoon!Objects that repeatedly bear the brunt of your dog’s teeth should beplaced as far out of reach as possible. For furniture or immovable objects,special pet repellents should be sprayed around their perimeters to makea mischievous puppy think twice before sinking its teeth into the item.In young to middle-aged adults, separation anxiety is probably thenumber one cause of destructive chewing. As with all cases of separa-tion anxiety and the behavior it provokes, correction of the problemshould focus on correction of the anxiety attack. Finally, as with prob-lem barking, boredom plays a leading role in destructive chewing insome adult dogs. If you think this might be the case, increase your dog’sdaily activity, and provide it with plenty of alternative targets, such asrawhides or nylon bones, on which to chew. Divert its attention, andmost likely it will divert its chewing.TRAINING ESSENTIALS53FI G U R E 2 . 1 5 Destructive chewing is an annoy-ing behavior that can lead to serious healthchallenges.
  • 76. Other Causes and Forms of Aberrant BehaviorJUMPINGTalk about annoying behavior! Jumping is right up there with housesoiling and incessant barking. Jumpers are usually right there at the doorwhen visitors call and have this innate tendency to spoil a perfectlycordial greeting. After all, nobody wants a dog with dirty paws to jumpon their nice, clean clothes, especially if the dog weighs 50 pounds ormore (Fig. 2.16)!This is one challenging behavior that should never be allowed togain a firm root in a puppy. Probably the best way to assure this isthrough strict command training, starting at an early age. Until itlearns its commands, be sure to discourage your dog from jumpingon you or family members when the occasion arises. When it doesjump at or on you, quickly push it off with your hands and shout“No!” Or, as an alternative, flex your knee and make sudden contactwith its chest, making it fall backwards. Just don’t overdo it and hurtyour pet!For adult dogs that neverlearned their manners, arefresher course in com-mand training is the mosteffective method of curingthe chronic jumper. Some-times dogs that jump aresimply trying to tell theirowners that they want moreattention. In such cases, afew more moments of yourtime devoted to your furryfriend each day is an impor-tant adjunct to therapy.FEAR OF LOUD NOISESFear induced by loud noisessuch as thunder or gunshotscan be a common cause ofaberrant behavior in canines.54 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 2.16 Proper obedience training is thekey to curing the “jumper.”
  • 77. Many people argue that because of the ultrasensitive hearing of dogs,pain induced by the noise or a pressure change might play a bigger rolethan fear itself. Regardless of the reason, when confronted with thedisturbing sound, these dogs often become hysterical and quitedestructive in their attempts to escape. Many might even injure them-selves or their owners in the process.In the case of the hunting dog that shies away when a gun is fired,training sessions involving repeated, gradual increases in exposure tothe sound of gunfire are an effective method of ridding the dog of its fear.For dogs that fear the sound of thunder, fireworks, and other loud noises,owners must avoid direct attempts at comforting the pet, since doing sowould be indirectly rewarding the undesirable behavior. If your dog isthe type that comes unglued in these situations, consider letting it “rideout the storm” in a travel kennel. In addition, playing a radio or televi-sion loudly in the room where your pet is present might help mufflesome of the fearful sounds, as well as make your dog feel more at ease.Your veterinarian can prescribe antianxiety medications for yourdog if it has an exceptional fear of loud noises. In any event, theseshould be used sparingly and only as needed. The best treatment isprevention through the use of proper desensitization training.AGGRESSIVENESSOf all the undesirable behaviors a dog can exhibit, this one is certainlythe most disturbing and the most unacceptable. Aggressiveness can bedirected toward other dogs or toward other species, including humans.Certainly dogs harboring an uncontrollable inherent aggressivenesstoward the latter pose special problems to their owners in terms ofliability as well.DOMINANCEThis certainly plays an important role in canine aggressiveness. Somedogs refuse to submit to authority and will lash out at anyone or any-thing that attempts to exert such. In many instances, these dogs were notproperly socialized and/or trained when they were young. In others, sexhormones—namely, testosterone—can exert a strong influence as well.Treatment for such aggressiveness consists of a return to basiccommand and obedience training. In addition, exercises designed toreestablish dominance should be performed as well. If the aggressionTRAINING ESSENTIALS55
  • 78. is directed toward a particular person, that person should be included inthese exercises. Remember: Extreme caution and a good, strong muzzleare both advised before any attempts at such dominance assertion aremade! For domineering male dogs, neutering is recommended prior toany attempts at retraining.FEAR AND PAINThese are the two other common causes of aggressive showings incanines. If a dog feels threatened or overwhelmingly fearful, it natu-rally experiences a “fight or flight” syndrome, and might choose theformer option over the latter, depending on how it perceives its situa-tion. In addition, dogs have been known to naturally lash out in fear athumans or other animals on being startled, or more frequently, whenthey are experiencing pain. For this reason, sudden aggressive changesin personality with or without other signs of illness warrant a completecheckup by a veterinarian.Treating fear-induced aggression is aimed at reducing the threat you orothers pose to your pet. If fear aggression is induced by some outsidestimulus, such as thunder, then proper restraint and isolation are recom-mended while the stimulus lasts. If a dog suffers from a vision or hearingdeficit, attempts should be made to capture the dog’s attention prior toapproach. Also, remember that physical punishment not only is a uselesstool for training but it also, by itself, can lead to natural, aggressive back-lashes due to pain (and fear). This is just one more reason why such pun-ishment should be avoided. Finally, for those dogs suffering from injuriesor illnesses, owners should remember to always approach and handlethem with caution, for although they might not mean to, they couldexhibit aggressive tendencies due to the pain associated with the disease.TERRITORIAL DEFENSEDogs, male or female, will certainly defend that property they deemtheirs, and they might not hesitate to fight for it. Territorial aggressive-ness toward unwelcome animals or people is not uncommon, as anyutility-meter reader would attest to! Such aggressive behavior can bejust as easily sparked by a perceived encroachment while the dog iseating, or while it is playing with its favorite toy. Many bite wounds tohumans have been inflicted because of such actions.56 DOGS AND CATS
  • 79. Again, a return to the basics of command training should help curbsome of the territorial aggressiveness that might be exhibited by somecanines. Certainly, showing some respect for a dog’s “private prop-erty” (toys, bowls, etc.) and its eating privacy is a commonsense wayto avoid this type of aggressive behavior. It is important to impress thisconcept on children, too, because they are often the most frequent vio-lators of this rule. If a dog seems particularly possessive over toys,bones, and other objects, then the number of these objects should bereduced to only one or two items. Also, consider feeding the dog in anisolated area of the home, free from interruptions.“MEAN STREAKS”Finally, certain breeds and canine family lines can have inherent“mean streaks” in them. For instance, chow chows are notoriousamong veterinary circles for their aggressiveness toward strangers. Inaddition, pit bull terriers, because of selective breeding, pose a realthreat to any other dog that might cross their paths.In many instances, this inherent aggressiveness can be harnessedby way of proper socialization and by strict command training. Neu-tering can be of assistance as well in select instances.TREATMENTThe best treatment for most types of aggression is prevention. Byadhering to the principles of proper socialization and by proper com-mand training, most behavioral problems related to aggressiveness canbe controlled or avoided altogether.However, for any dog exhibiting aggressiveness, a thorough physicalexamination and consultation with a veterinarian is warranted. Rulingout underlying medical causes is certainly one reason for this; theother is that your veterinarian might choose to prescribe medicationsto assist in retraining efforts or as a direct attempt to curb the psycho-logical aspects of your dog’s aggressiveness. Antianxiety medicationsand behavior modification drugs are now commonly used in veterinarymedicine to help assist in the correction of many behavioral problems,including aggressiveness. Don’t hesitate to ask your veterinarian formore details.TRAINING ESSENTIALS57
  • 80. Feline Behavioral DisordersAmong cats, the three most common behavioral disorders seen includeinappropriate eliminations, destructive scratching, and aggressiveness.Inappropriate EliminationCats exhibit two types of normal elimination behavior. The firstinvolves urine spraying to delineate territories (the typical feline terri-tory encompasses over one-tenth of a square mile) and to attract mem-bers of the opposite sex (see Fig. 2.17). The second type is calledcovering behavior, in which a cat digs a hole in the soil (or litter), elim-inates in it, and then covers it to mask the scent. Most inappropriatehouse soiling that occurs with cats involves indulgences or deviationsin one or the other.The most frequent cause of house soiling deals with the first type,territoriality and sexual behavior. Both male and female cats, neutered ornot, can spray urine. A new cat in the neighborhood or a female in heatcan quickly set off instinctive behavior in a male cat kept indoors andlead to inappropriate mark-ings. Even moving into anew house or apartment inwhich a cat previously livedmight entice your cat to goaround the dwelling andmark those areas in whicha scent from the previousinhabitant is picked up.Neutering might helpcontrol urine spraying inthe repeat offender, yet, asmentioned before, it is notnecessarily a cure-all. Ifthere is a particular area inthe house that your cat fan-cies the most for its spray-ing activities, do your best58 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 2.17 Cats will often spray urine tomark their territories.
  • 81. to prevent its access to that part of the house. Or if you can, catch yourcat in the act and punish it using a squirt from a water sprayer or ablast of air from a compressed air canister. Then leave the sprayer orcanister sitting beside the soiled object or in the room for a few days.Chances are that your cat will get the drift and will abandon its ten-dencies to repeat the action. [Note: If plain water from your spray bottleseems to have little impact with your cat, adding a small amount ofvinegar or lemon juice (2 tablespoons per cup of water) to it willimpart to it an odor that is offensive to most cats.]Feline odor neutralizers can be used on carpets and furniture tohelp eliminate those lingering odors that might be causing the problembehavior. They should also be used anytime an elimination accidentoccurs outside the litterbox. These odor neutralizers are available froma veterinary clinic or a pet supply store. Household cleaners designedto simply mask odors or those containing ammonia are of no use; infact, the latter might actually attract your cat back to the same spot.For those tough cases of urine spraying in which nothing seems towork, special drug therapy prescribed by a veterinarian might providea satisfactory solution to the problem. However, such agents should beused only after other training methods have failed.REFUSAL TO USE THE LITTERBOXWhat about the cat that has stopped using the litterbox? There couldbe a number of reasons for this behavior. Some cats may not like thetype or brand of litter that was put in the box. Have you changedbrands lately? If so, switch back to the brand you were using before thehouse soiling started. Remember that the texture and scent of a litterare two factors that can influence your cat’s reaction to it.Some cats become upset if too much litter is placed in the box. Catsshould be able to reach the bottom of the pan when digging. If youhave one of these fickle cats, restocking the box with just a 1-inch layerof litter might do the trick.Still other cats will refuse to use a litterbox that, in their minds, isdirty. Check your frequency of litter changes. If the litter is not beingreplaced every day, this could be the problem. If so, step up the fre-quency. Also, do not use strong cleansers when doing your weeklyTRAINING ESSENTIALS59
  • 82. litterbox cleaning, as the residual scents from these might be justenough to send your cat off searching for another place to do its business.Refusal to use a litterbox may also be linked to some traumatic inci-dent, emotionally or physically, that occurred while your cat wasusing the box on a previous occasion. Because of this, it now associatesthe box or its location with the unpleasant incident. Obviously, thebest way to find out if this is indeed the cause is to move the litterboxto a different location, one that is quiet and away from disturbances.For those cats that are especially emotional, buying new litterboxesmight be required.Not all causes of house soiling are psychological in nature. Forinstance, the presence of feline lower urinary tract disease can bethe underlying cause of abnormal elimination behavior in felines.Since some of the diseases causing abnormal elimination can be life-threatening, always let a veterinarian rule out any medical causesbefore concentrating on behavioral causes.Destructive ScratchingScratching comes naturally to cats, which use this behavior to keeptheir retractable claws manicured and to mark their territories. As aresult, scratching, though itmight become destructiveand annoying, should beviewed as a perfectly nat-ural behavior.If your cat is engaged indestructive scratching, youhaven’t satisfied a basicneed. A scratching post is arequired tool for anyonewho owns a cat (Fig. 2.18).In fact, it is preferable totrain a cat on a scratchingpost right from the startinstead of bringing one into offset problem scratchingactivity. If your cat seems to60 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 2.18 A scratching post can be used tospare you furniture from the ravages of your cat’sclaws!
  • 83. fancy one or more particular pieces of furniture in your home, see ifyou can catch it in the act. If you do, use a blast of water or compressedair from a sprayer or canister to reprimand it, then leave the sprayer orcanister sitting beside or on top of the piece of furniture for severaldays. Most cats will avoid that piece of furniture like the plague fromthat point on. Some persons recommend commercial cat repellents orvinegar be used on furniture to discourage scratching, but these can bemessy and could stain your furniture.For that feline that seems refractory to punishment, try placing thescratching post near its favorite piece of furniture and allow it to makea choice. Make the scratching post as plush and tempting as possible.Catnip attached to the post can help lure a reluctant cat to its newscratching post. Be sure to reward your cat for making the switch.Special nail covers are available through veterinarians and petstores and can be applied to the nails of your cat to prevent scratching.Surgical removal of its front claws can also be considered to spare yourhouse from total destruction.AggressivenessBecause of the inherent nature of the cat, a display of aggressiontoward another member of its own species, especially if a territory hasbeen violated, is somewhat common. Aggressiveness toward humans,on the other hand, can be influenced by a number of factors, includingpersonality defects, fear, play activity, and medical disorders. Cats thathave not been properly socialized to people can be expected to showsome degree of aggressiveness when feeling threatened. It is also awell-known fact that even some socialized cats just want to be leftalone at times and may become aggressive if disturbed.PERSONALITY DEFECTSPersonality defects can lead to true aggressive tendencies in cats.These are cats that have been poorly socialized to humans, or haveexperienced negative socialization. Nervous or hyperexcitable cats orthose with extremely domineering personalities can also show aggres-siveness at times as well. An agitated or angry cat will flag its tail andflatten its ears against its head when approached or touched. A low-pitched growl or hiss is usually heard as well.TRAINING ESSENTIALS61
  • 84. All aggressive cats, especially males, should be neutered or spayed.If neutering doesn’t eliminate the problem, then antianxiety medica-tions can be used to help “take the edge off” the pugnacious feline.FEAR-INDUCED AGGRESSIONFear-induced aggression rarely responds to training or reprimand. Infact, if such actions are attempted while the cat is in such a state, seri-ous injury to an owner could result! The self-defense posture causedby fear-induced aggressive behavior is characterized by piloerection(hair standing on end), arched back, flattened ears, and hissing or spit-ting. Cats that feel threatened will lash out with their claws, and makeshort, sharp lunges at their adversaries. If they really sense danger,they often roll over on their backs, and assume a defense posture thatwill allow them to utilize the claws on all four feet.Obviously, eliminating the source of fear is the first step in managingsuch aggression. Afterwards, give your cat plenty of time alone to calmdown and relax. A special food treat can be offered as well to help takeits mind off the incident.PLAYFUL AGGRESSIONPlayful aggression must be differentiated from the two previous typesof aggression, since it is by far the easiest to address. This type ofaggression is seen primarily in younger cats filled with youthfulenergy and curiosity. These cats may stalk house guests or ambushunexpecting owners when they arrive home. This behavior providesthem a way to release excess energy and to practice their instinctivehunting skills. Most bites inflicted during this type of play are notmeant to break the skin; however, this can certainly be a function ofthe game’s intensity. One physical characteristic of a mischievous cator kitten is that they often carry their tail arched up over their back orin an inverted “U” position during these play episodes.Playful aggression can be managed by allowing your cat greateraccess to toys such as paper bags, ping pong balls, or windup, movingfigures. If you play action games with your cat using strings attachedto toys, be sure to remove these strings following a play session.Finally, taking your cat out for more walks during the day can helpexpend some of its pent-up energy.62 DOGS AND CATS
  • 85. Negative reinforcement utilizing water sprayers or compressed-aircanisters can also be used to break overzealous cats of their bad habits.As a last resort, simply isolating your rambunctious feline in anotherroom while you have guests over will ensure that they are not met withany unexpected surprises!MEDICAL CAUSESLet us not forget about medical causes for aggressiveness in cats. Catsthat don’t feel good often just want to be left alone, and if they are dis-turbed, they may show aggressiveness. Diseases that affect the nervoussystem (including rabies), metabolic disorders, and pain can all have anegative effect on a cat’s personality. If your cat has experienced agradual or sudden change in personality, have it examined by a veteri-narian in order to rule out possible medical causes for the change.TRAINING ESSENTIALS63
  • 86. Traveling with Your Dogor Cat3C H A P T E RAs a rule, most pets are good travel companions. Rarely do theybecome hysterical or sick to their stomachs when placed inside amoving object! However, whenever you plan on traveling with yourdog or cat, be it on an extended vacation or a short trip to the local gro-cery store, there are some guidelines that you should follow to ensurea safe, pleasant experience.Traveling by CarWhen traveling with your pet by automobile, always keep the safetyand comfort of both driver and passenger in mind. As a result, alwaysuse a travel carrier when transporting your four-legged friend by car(Fig. 3.1). Not only will your pet feel more secure in a carrier, helpingto reduce stress associated with the ride, but it will help minimizejostling and jolting movements that could injure your pet. If you havea dog that is too large to fit comfortably into one of these carriers, or ifthe carrier is too big for your car, then the backseat is the place to be,not the frontseat! An excited or stressed-out, unrestrained pet in thepassenger seat of an automobile creates a very dangerous driving con-dition. In addition, dogs and cats allowed to ride in frontseats can suf-fer serious or even lethal injuries should airbags deploy in an accident.65
  • 87. Special restraint harnessesor seatbelts are availablecommercially and shouldbe used to secure your petto its assigned seat.Even though most dogslove to stick their heads outof car windows while carsare in motion (it remindsthem of the wind in theirface while they are chasingprey), don’t let yours do it.Dogs with long, floppy earscan suffer trauma to theirearflaps. Also, both ear and eye injuries from insects and flying roaddebris can easily occur in dogs allowed such freedoms.For truck owners, never allow any dog to ride in the bed of a pickuptruck unless it is confined to a carrier. Many of the dogs you see lyingdead along the highway met their fate as a result of owners failing toheed such commonsense advice!Keep the interior of your car cool and well ventilated. Dogs and catsthat are excited and forced to travel in hot stuffy cars or those filledwith cigarette smoke can hyperventilate and overheat. Cigarette smokein itself can be quite irritating to the eyes, nose, and mucous mem-branes of your pet, and has even been linked to cancer in cats! Also,car exhaust fumes can quickly overcome a pet left inside an idling car.If you become stuck in traffic, be sure to crack the windows and keepthe air circulating within the car. And never leave a dog or cat unat-tended in a parked car if outside temperatures exceed 72 degreesFahrenheit or drop below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (Fig. 3.2). If you do,your pet could succumb to heat stroke or hypothermia, respectively.For trips over 2 hours, besure to take plenty of breaksto give your pet water andto relieve itself (for felines,keep a clean absorbent towellining the floor of the carrier,66 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 3.1 Cats should always be trans-ported in sturdy carriers.Second-hand cigarette smoke, eitherinhaled or licked from the fur, hasbeen linked to cancer in cats!DID YOU KNOW?
  • 88. since many cats on long trips will refuse to use a litterbox if offeredone). Crushed ice is a neat and spillproof way to quench a thirsty trav-eler’s thirst.If your pet gets car sick, try feeding a small amount of food about 30minutes prior to your trip. Often, an empty stomach coupled withstress can predispose a pet to motion sickness. If this fails to work, anantihistamine may be administered prior to travel. Contact your vet-erinarian concerning the various over-the-counter medications youcan use and their dosages.For those pets absolutely terrified of the car, a stronger tranquilizerprescribed by a veterinarian may be needed. Although this should beused only as a last resort, it can be an effective tool for taking the edgeoff your phobic friend and thereby making the ride much less stressfulfor everyone concerned.Traveling by AirIf you are planning to transport your pet by plane, consult a veterinarianbefore your trip to determine whether your pet has any medical condi-TRAVELING WITH YOUR DOG OR CAT67F I G U R E 3 . 2 Leaving your dog in a parked car even with the windows cracked canbe hazardous to its health.
  • 89. tions that may prohibit such travel. For example, should significanttemperature and/or pressure fluctuations occur during flight, theycould be harmful to a pet suffering from an underlying heart condition.Since different companies may have different policies, check aheadof time with the airline concerning its travel rules and requirements forpets. Many airlines will allow you to take a cat or small dog into thecabin with you; however, realize that for the comfort of you and fellowpassengers, it must be well behaved and silent during the trip. If youfear that these two criteria will not be met, your pet should travel cargo.If your dog or cat is to travel cargo, book either an early evening orearly morning flight during the summer months and midday flightsduring winter months to protect it from exposure to temperatureextremes. Also, book direct flights only so that there’s no chance of“lost baggage.” If possible, plan on arriving early enough at the gate sothat you can observe your pet being loaded onto the plane.If you own a pet carrier that is not fit for air travel, most airlineshave carriers for rent; however, be sure that the carrier selected foryour pet is the proper size for its safety during the flight. Call ahead oftime to confirm carrier availability.You will want to pad the inside of the carrier liberally with largeblankets and/or towels. And don’t forget to throw in one of your dog orcat’s favorite toys! A “live animal” sticker, as well as your name,address, and phone number, should be attached conspicuously to theoutside of the carrier.Avoid feeding your pet solid food within 6 hours of the plane trip.Provide a constant source of water during the flight by freezing waterin a water bowl the nightprior to your trip and plac-ing this in your pet’s carrierprior to the flight.Vacation PlanningPrior to leaving on a vaca-tion, there are certain itemsthat need to be taken care offirst. To begin, be sure you68 DOGS AND CATSWhen transporting yourpet by air, book nonstopflights to reduce thechances of your pet becoming lost lug-gage. In addition, during the summer,book flights early in the mornings orlate in the evenings to avoid exposingyour pet to midday heat.DR. P’S VET TIP
  • 90. are aware of all the requirements necessary for taking your dog or catto its intended destination, including required health certificates,quarantines, and customs. When traveling domestically and interstatewith your pet, two items you should always have with you are yourpet’s vaccination record and a current health certificate. A licensedveterinarian must issue this health certificate within 10 days of yourtrip. If traveling overseas, the embassy of the country of destinationcan inform you of all the necessary requirements for the safe and legaltransport of your pet.Be sure that the carrier you have for your dog or cat is sturdy and ingood condition. Also, make sure that your pet’s collar has identifica-tion tags, including a phone number, if possible, of where you’ll bestaying just in case your pet gets lost. Of course, you’ll want to take aleash along for daily exercise, as well as your pet’s brush and/or combfor daily grooming. Finally, plan on taking plenty of your pet’s foodalong with you, just in case the brand you normally feed your pet isnot available at your destination.Consult travel guides or travel agents to find listing of those motels,hotels, and campgrounds that accept pets, and plan your overnightstops around these locations. Finally, when you arrive at your destina-tion, look in the local phone directory for the name and number of alocal veterinarian in the area, in case of emergency.Try not to leave your pet unattended in your motel or hotel room. Ifyou do, be sure to place the “Do not disturb” sign on the front door sothat your pet doesn’t accidentally escape if housekeeping comes toclean your room while you are away.When camping with your pet, don’t allow it to roam or to interactwith wild animals. Cats especially, being the natural-bred hunters thatthey are, could get themselves in trouble real quick! It’s also a greatidea to have your pet checked out by a veterinarian following thesecamping trips to be sure that it didn’t pick up any unwanted parasitesfrom the local fauna.Finally, there will be times when your dog or cat will be better offstaying at home rather than traveling with you. In these instances,choose a kennel facility for your dog or cat as you would a hotel for your-self, making sure that it is clean, well ventilated, and staffed by a caringgroup of people. Many newer facilities are equipped with interactiveTRAVELING WITH YOUR DOG OR CAT69
  • 91. cameras attached to each run or pen that can be accessed over the Inter-net, allowing you to check in on your pet even if you happen to be on theother side of the world! Although it costs more to board a pet at such afacility, many owners feel it is well worth the price.Another great alternative is to let your dog or cat stay home andhire a pet sitter to check in on it throughout the day. If you can’t find aneighbor or friend to oblige, check your phone book for a reliable pro-fessional pet sitter near you, or ask someone at a local veterinary clinicto recommend one to you.70 DOGS AND CATS
  • 92. Preventive Health Care4C H A P T E RWhen it comes to health, pets are just like people. Some will gothrough their entire lives without any health problems along theway; others just seem to be prone to every illness that comes along. Anumber of factors play a role in the susceptibility of dogs and cats toillness, including genetics, environment, nutrition, immune systemcompetence, and, very importantly, the extent of preventive healthcare provided to them by their owners. In fact, for a pet that is genet-ically prone to illness, this latter factor can do wonders to help coun-teract some of these inherent effects. Unfortunately, many pet ownersfail to realize the importance of preventive health care; as a result,their pet can ultimately pay the price later in life.At-Home Physical ExamDo you worry about your pet’s health even when it appears healthy?Your veterinarian can ensure that your dog or cat is thriving by per-forming a thorough checkup, but what can you do between visits? Petscannot verbalize their discomforts, and people often worry that they’llmiss the early signs of illness. If you learn to examine your pet athome, you can have that all-important peace of mind between visits tothe vet (Fig. 4.1).71
  • 93. During your next visit topet clinic, the veterinarianwill probably begin with anexamination of your pet.Watch how your veterinar-ian performs the exam andask to participate in theprocess. Discuss your desireto supplement the vet’sexams with at-home checksthat you will make. The vet-erinarian should be pleasedwith your desire to providesuch attention to your pet’shealth and should be happyto help develop your skills(Fig. 4.2). Your teamworkwill provide the consistentattention to details thatcould prevent a tragedy.At-home examinationsare no substitute for a veterinary checkup, but doing them might oneday give you a jump on treating a minor or serious condition. For con-venience, these exams can be combined with regular grooming sessions.Use the physical exam checklist in Table 4.1 as your guide. Also, seeFig. 4.3 for instructions on how to take your pet’s temperature (see alsoTable 4.2), pulse, and respiratory readings. Finally, get into the habit ofweighing your pet every 3 months and recording your readings. Unex-plained weight loss or weight gain or a pattern of continual loss or gainshould prompt you to contact your veterinarian. Also check for othersigns of illness, such as a visible “third eyelid” in cats (Fig. 4.4).Vaccinations and the ABCs of ImmunityThe theory behind vaccinating any pet is to provide artificial exposureto certain disease-causing organisms, thereby priming the body’simmune system before actual exposure occurs (Fig. 4.5). Doing so will72 DOGS AND CATSFIGURE 4.1 Periodic physical exams per-formed at home are a vital part of your pet’s pre-ventive health care program.
  • 94. allow for a rapid, effective immune response if this exposure does hap-pen, without the lag time associated with a first exposure.If the mother has been properly vaccinated prior to pregnancy,most puppies and kittens receive protective antibodies from theirmother through nursing, primarily during the first 24 hours of life.These “passive” antibodies are important, since the immune system ofa neonate less than 6 weeks of age is incapable of mounting an effec-tive response to any antigen (foreign organism or substance). Around 8weeks of age, levels of these antibodies begin to taper off, leaving thepet to fend for itself.If a puppy or kitten that still has adequate levels of passive antibodiespresent in its system is immunized, the vaccination will be renderedineffective. For this reason, initial vaccinations are usually given aroundPREVENTIVE HEALTH CARE73F I G U R E 4 . 2 Preventive health care can help your cat live a happy and healthylife.
  • 95. 74 DOGS AND CATSTable 4.1 Physical Exam Checklist for Dogs and CatsDate Temperature WeightGeneral evaluation—Alert —Disinterested—Active —Lethargic—Healthy appetite —Poor appetite—Playful