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Make the center wrap. Cut an 8-in.                                                                                        ...
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Process photos by Jim McIntosh.                                 19                                            20          ...
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Art on0508

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  1. 1. online beginner exclusive wire Try This on for size Adjustable-Shank Wire-wrapped Ring Comfortably accommodate up to four ring sizes with this adjustable ring. by Jim McIntosh You can make this ring with a variety of wire types and cabochons. The face of the ring measures 11 ⁄ 8 x 7 ⁄ 8 in. (29 x 22 mm). M any people can’t wear traditional rings because arthritis, joint inflammation, or large knuckles make it impossible for them to slip rings on and off. The shank of this adjustable wire ring easily expands to slip over a large joint before returning to its original size. I used Argentium Sterling Silver wire, but you can use sterling silver, gold-filled, or another metal. Some people believe that untreated copper can bring relief to arthritis sufferers, so copper would make a great material for this ring (though untreated copper may react with your skin, turning it green). © 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
  2. 2. 1 2 3 4 5Measure your cabochon. Cut a 4-in. Prepare the wire. Cut three strands of(10.2 cm) piece of painter’s tape, and trima 1 ⁄8 -in. (3 mm)-wide strip from the long 22-gauge (0.6 mm) square wire to the determined length. Straighten each wire materials ■ Cabochon: 25 x 18 mmside of the tape [1]. Set the wide strip aside by holding one end with your flatnose ■ Wire:to use later. Beginning at the center of pliers and pulling the wire through a ■ 22-gauge (0.6 mm), square, dead-soft,one long side of the cabochon, wrap the polishing cloth. 45 in. (1.1 m)narrow piece of tape around the cabo- Hold the wires side by side, keeping ■ 21-gauge (0.7 mm), half-round, dead-chon’s perimeter [2]. Trim the excess tape the sides square to each other. Secure the soft, 38 in. (96.5 cm)so that the ends meet but do not overlap. wires with a piece of painter’s tape about Use a fine-tip permanent marker to 3 in. (76 mm) from the wire ends. tools suppliesdraw a line on the tape opposite where Starting at the taped end, run your ■ Painter’s tapethe tape ends meet. This marks the center fingers down the wires to make sure they ■ Permanent marker: fine tipof the cabochon’s other long side. don’t overlap or twist. Secure the other ■ Wire cutters Make additional lines about 5 ⁄64 in. end with tape about 3 in. (76 mm) from ■ Pliers: flatnose(2 mm) to the right and left of the first the wire ends to create a wire bundle [4]. ■ Polishing cloth Tape measureline [3]. These lines represent how wide ■ ■ Ring mandrelyou’ll make each wire wrap. Transfer the wrap lines. Open a tape ■ Rawhide mallet Repeat the series of three lines at the measure to the length of your wire bundle. ■ Needle filecenter of each short end of the cabochon. Place the marked painter’s tape below the ■ Finishing items (optional): flex shaft,I made the width of my short-end wraps tape measure, aligning the tape’s center hard felt buff, rougenarrower than the long-side wraps. mark with the tape measure’s midpoint. Place the wire bundle below the tape suppliersDetermine the wire length. Remove [5]. Line up one end of the bundle with ■ Wire and cabochon (Rio Grande,the tape from the stone and place it sticky- the end of the tape measure. Use a fine-tip 800.545.6566, www.riogrande.com)side down on your work surface. To find permanent marker to transfer the marksthe amount of wire you need, note the on the tape to the bundle. I do not transferlength of the tape. Multiply the length by the center mark of each line group.2 and add 9 in. (22.9 cm). © 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
  3. 3. Make the center wrap. Cut an 8-in. (20.3 cm) piece of 21-gauge (0.7 mm) half-round wire to use as your wrapping wire. Using flatnose pliers, hold the wrapping wire vertically approximately ½ in. (13 mm) from the top, with its flat side facing you. With your free hand, fold the long end of the wrapping wire up over the pliers and place it to the right of the short end. 6 7 Notice that it resembles a checkmark. Hook the short end of the wrapping wire over the bundle at the left line of the center marks [6]. Use flatnose pliers to press the wrapping wire in place. With your fingers, bring the long end of the wrapping wire over the bundle and place it to the right of the short end. Press the wrapping wire down on the bundle to secure it [7]. Continue wrapping with the long end of the wire until you reach the right line of the center mark. I made seven wraps on my ring.sizing up Make sure that the last wrap leaves the tail of the wrapping wire on the same side of the wire bundle as the wrap lines (the side with the exposed wire ends will be thethe situation inside of the bezel).When you’re sizing rings, you need to keep wire gauge in mind. As the wire Trim the ends of the wrapping wire sogauge gets heavier, additional millimeters are added to a ring size’s that neither end extends past the edge ofcircumference. The ring circumference in this chart is based on a wire the bundle. Press each wire end again withthickness of 1.6 mm. the pliers to set the wire.Tension in the shank of the featured ring may leave a gap of severalmillimeters between the shank end and the ring base, making the finishedring slightly larger than anticipated. Since this ring is adjustable, you maywant to make the ring slightly smaller than your ideal size. ring size chart U.S. ring size Circumference Circumference for 1.6 mm of finger (mm) material thickness (mm) 5 49.0 54.0 6 51.5 56.5 7 54.0 59.1 8 56.5 61.6 9 59.1 64.1 10 61.6 66.6Source: The Contenti Company. Other sources show up to 0.5 mm variance. © 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
  4. 4. 8 9 10 11 12Make the left and right end wraps. If the end wraps aren’t centered on the the adjacent wrap [10], and then repeatMake the left wrap as you did the center left and right ends of the cabochon, adjust on the other side of the center wrap.wrap. I wrapped the wire around the them now. When they are centered, use Place the cabochon in the U-shapedbundle five times for my end wrap. Trim flatnose pliers to set the loose ends by frame, with the back of the cabochonthe wires, but do not press the wire ends pressing them to the bundle. supported by the bends. Bring the twoagainst the bundle. Repeat to make the bottom wires together so they meet at theright wrap. Make the cabochon supports. Hold the center of the cabochon’s right side, and wire bundle in your nondominant hand use flatnose pliers to bend the wires at 90ºForm the bezel. Align the wire bundle and use flatnose pliers to grasp the bottom angles away from the center of the stone.so that the center wrap is in the middle of wire on one side of the center wrap. The two wires should be parallel [11].one long side of the cabochon [8], and Twist the pliers to make a small bend Remove the cabochon, and tape thebend the wire bundle into a U shape [9]. toward the middle of the bezel. Repeat on two bottom wires together about 4 in. (10.2 cm) from where the stone will sit [12]. Secure the top of the cabochon. Place the cabochon in the bezel, and bend the top wires to make a design on top of the cabochon. See “That’s a Wrap,” page 5, for tips on making a secure design. When you are satisfied with your design and have the stone securely in the frame, bring the ends of the top wires to the center of the cabochon’s right side 13 and bend them so that they align with the bottom wires. Set the top wires to the outside of the bottom wires, and tape all four wires together [13]. Wrap the bezel’s center wires around the cabochon, and then bend them so that they align with the four-wire bundle. Place the center wires to the outside of the taped four-wire bundle, and tape all six wires together [14]. These wires will form 14 the ring shank. © 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
  5. 5. 15 16 17 18Wrap the ring shank. Cut approximately Determine your ideal ring size (see Use wire cutters to trim the excess30 in. (76.2 cm) of half-round wire for your “Sizing Up the Situation,” page 3) and note wrapping wire, and press the wire endwrapping wire. Using flatnose pliers, hold the circumference. Measuring from the to the shank wires, using flatnose pliers.the wrapping wire vertically approximately first wrap, find the circumference length Trim the excess wire from the shank1 in. (25.5 mm) from its top end, with the on the shank wires and mark that point wires so they extend about ¼ in. (6.5 mm)wire’s flat side facing you. with a fine-tip marker [16]. past the end of the wraps. Use pliers to With your free hand, fold the long end Continue wrapping, pressing the wrap- grasp the shank-wire ends and fold themof the wrapping wire up over the pliers ping wire to the shank wires every six to over the top of the ring shank, pressingand place it to the right of the short end eight wraps until you reach the mark [17]. them tightly to the shank wraps [18].so that it resembles a checkmark. Holding the shank wires so that theback of the cabochon faces you, hook thewrapping wire over the shank wires [15],with the short end on the back side of theshank wires. Slide the wrapping wire as that’s aclose to the cabochon as possible. To wrap the shank, use your fingers tobring the long end of the wrapping wire wrap over the shank wires to the right of the To make a secure bezel for your cabochon, you need to think about whereshort end. Keep the wrapping wire tight to place your wraps. In general, you can vary the placement of the wraps,to the shank wires, but do not allow the but they should be evenly distributed to keep the wire bundle that makes up the bezel wall intact. For the featured ring’s bezel, I made sure to wrapshank wires to compress and overlap on one long side of the cabochon and at both small ends.one another. Continue wrapping, using flatnose Wrapping over the top of a cabochon serves two purposes: It’s decorative, and it helps secure the cabochon in the bezel.pliers to press the wrapping wire to theshank wires every six to eight wraps to set When designing the top wraps of the cabochon, make sure that the swirlsit. After you’ve wrapped 1 ⁄2 in. (13 mm) of cover at least two-thirds of the cabochon to prevent the stone from popping out of the bezel. If your design doesn’t cover two-thirds of thethe shank wires, remove the tape pieces cabochon’s surface, you will need to make angled bends in the wire on thethat are holding the shank wires together. top of the bezel just as you did on the bottom. © 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
  6. 6. Process photos by Jim McIntosh. 19 20 21Shape the ring shank. Using a ring 90º to bring it under the cabochon.mandrel, hold the end of the wrapped With your fingers, squeeze the shank Jim McIntoshshank at the mandrel’s mark for your ideal together to compress its diameter. Check has been makingsize. Carefully bend the shank around the the size on the ring mandrel, and compress jewelry for over 6mandrel, working from the end of the the shank until the ring is slightly smaller years. He says, “Itshank toward the cabochon [19]. Tuck than your ideal size. Compress the shank has always beenthe shank end under the cabochon. until the end of the ring shank reaches my desire to push the side where the shank meets the the envelope ofNOTE: You may need to remove the ring cabochon [21]. wire art as far asfrom the mandrel to bring the open end Place the ring back on the mandrel possible.” He may be contacted via hisunder the cabochon properly. at the mark for your ideal size. Using a Web site, www.macjewels.com. rawhide mallet, lightly hammer the out- Once you have the basic shape of the side of the ring shank to refine the shapering shank, remove the ring from the and work-harden the ring.mandrel. Use flatnose pliers to carefullygrasp the shank wires where the shank File and polish the ring. Use a needlemeets the stone [20]. Bend the shank file to smooth any sharp wire ends. Polish the wire with a polishing cloth, or apply jeweler’s rouge according to the manufac- turer’s instructions and then buff it with a hard felt buff in a flex shaft. © 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
  7. 7. Make jewelry that makes a statement . . . your statement Looking for projects that use different materials such as metalwork, wirework, stone, glass, polymer, and enamel? Then Art Jewelry is the magazine for you! Discover the secrets you need to create breathtaking pieces that express your own distinctive style like never before! Whether you want to learn a new technique, try a Subscribe different material, or get ideas for your own jewelry projects, there’s something for Today! you in Art Jewelry! Order online at www.artjewelrymag.com/promo Enter code: I4XZ1 or call 800-533-6644 Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Time. Outside the U.S. and Canada, call 262-796-8776, ext. 661.05X1017 I4XZ1

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