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  • 1. Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps KRAKÓW June - July 2013June - July 2013 Lajkonik Bearded, boozy imposter… and city icon Jagiellonian University Kraków’s hallowed halls of higher learning “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times N°82 5zł (w tym 8% VAT) ISSN 1508-2334
  • 2. Find us on Google Maps How to reach us: tramways: 1, 9, 11, 14, 20, 22, 50 direction: Rondo Grzegórzeckie tramways: 9, 50 direction: Starowiślana Street buses: 125, 128, 184 direction: Rondo Grzegórzeckie Opening Hours: Mon. - Sat.: 10 am - 10 pm Sun.: 10 am - 8 pm IN THE PURSUIT OF EXCELLENCE, NO MATTER IS TOO SMALL. AND EXCELLENCE IS NO SMALL MATTER.
  • 3. 4 Kraków In Your Pocket CONTENTS Feature Jagiellonian University 8 Arrival & Transport 10 The Basics 15 Culture & Events 17 Hotels 28 Restaurants 36 Cafés 66 Nightlife Bars & Pubs 70 Clubs 74 Kazimierz Nightlife 78 History 80 Sightseeing 82 Old Town 83 Wawel 94 Kazimierz 97 Podgórze 102 Jewish Ghetto 105 Płaszów 107 Salwator 110 Las Wolski 112 Nowa Huta 113 Further Afield Wieliczka 116 Auschwitz 120 Tyskie 123 Tarnów 124 Leisure 128 Shopping 131 Directory 136 Maps & Index City Centre Map 139 City Map 140 Nowa Huta Map 142 Street Register 143 Listings Index 144 Features Index 146 Every city needs a symbol, and Kraków – pigeons (curse them!) aside for the moment – has Lajkonik. A jolly, mounted mock-invader from the East, as misappropriated and politically incorrect as he may seem, Lajkonik makes a surprisingly fitting composite of Kraków itself: part history, part legend, part tradition and part absurdity (with traces of alcohol). Get the full story on page 68, and turn to page 20 for the details of this year’s Lajkonik Parade, as well as what else is happening in Kraków during your stay. Photo: Elżbieta Lang, MHK. Contents The country’s best and brightest (and best-looking we’ve noticed) come to Kraków to study at the city’s storied Jagiellonian University. The highest-ranking college in Poland, JU is also one of the world’s oldest and deserving of investigation beyond bird-watching the undergrads as you cad about town. The university’s main spoils are all clustered together only minutes from the market square and we tell you more about what to see on page 8. THE RESTAURANT WORTH RECOMMENDING
  • 4. 6 Kraków In Your Pocket FOREWORD Copyright Notice Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Maps Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM ul. Poselska 20, 31-117 Kraków, If this is your first time in Kraków, you’re a little late to the party (we’ve already been here for 14 years, by comparison), but we’re glad you could join us. It’s no accident that Kraków has become Poland’s number one tourist destination. This dame has it all, from high breeding and good looks to cultural clout and an up-for-anything attitude. Endowed with the most voluptuous market square in Europe (p.86), an ancient riverside castle (p.94) and atmospheric former Jewish district (p.97), it’s no surprise that the city centre was added wholesale to UNESCO’s first-ever list of world wonders back in 1978. While your camera will certainly get a workout, so will your liver once it lights upon the highest density of bars and pubs to be found anywhere in the world (p.70). Whether or not you’ll agree that this is the best time of the year to visit Kraków (spoiler alert: it is) will depend on whether you prefer the spirit and pulse of the crowd, or the thrill and illusion of independent exploration. During peak tourist season, which you may have noticed you’ve thrown yourself into the thick of, the city still offers the opportunity for both. In concert with tourists, temperatures and ladies’ hemlines all hitting their high marks in the next two months, June and July also represent the absolute zenith of Kraków’s cultural calendar. First it’s fireworks and fangs along the river during the absolutely fabulous Dragon Parade (on the cover, as well as p.22), followed by the city’s loveable lout, Lajkonik (who we examine in depth on pages 68 and 20) emptying Kraków’s coffers and ‘kufels’ (-that’s Polish for ‘beer steins’) during his potty parade to the market square. For music fans it doesn’t get any better than the Jewish Festival (p.27), whose free finale on ul. Szeroka is one of Krakow’s greatest displays group ecstasy. If you’re looking to go Lone Wolf McQuade, this guide is full of suggestions for that too – look no further than across the river where a trip through Podgórze to Krak’s Mound (p.102) and on to Płaszów (p.107) is one of the most profoundly personal expeditions you can partake in. Whatever your preference, you have the perfect guide in your hands to take full advantage of all this city has to offer, so do your homework and don’t let all the hard work we’ve done just lie about. Keep this guide close to your vest, or if you’re feeling really randy, you might consider putting it in your pocket. As ever, we encourage your feedback via comments on our website – – or old-fashioned email to Enjoy Kraków. Editorial Writer/Editor Garrett Van Reed Research Manager Anna Hojan Researchers Maria Rulaff, Oliwia Hojan, Michał Albrychowicz Events Anna Hojan, Janina Krzysiak Photography In Your Pocket, Paweł Krzan Cover 12th Great PGNiG Dragons Parade, Teatr Groteska, A. Kaczmarz Sales & Circulation Director: Małgorzata Drząszcz 606 749 676 Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager Agata Trocha 606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków Company Office & Accounts Joanna Szlosowska 58 555 08 31 Published 20,000 copies, 6 times per year The number of cities now covered by In Your Pocket in print, online and via mobile application has climbed over 65 in some 21 countries, with an astounding 4.6 million city guides published each year. To keep up to date and show your support, ‘like’ us on Facebook ( krakowinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (twitter. com/@krakowiyp). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is completely subjective and independent of paid-for advertising or sponsored listings. In Your Pocket writers do not accept free meals, sexual favours, first-born children or other bribes in return for favourable reviews and reserve the right to say whatever the hell they damn well please about the venues listed in this guide, regardless of disagreement from advertisers, owners or the general public. The editor has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide at the time of going to press and assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors, poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers. Europe In Your Pocket Czech Republic Poland Romania SerbiaBosnia Kosovo Albania Greece FYR Macedonia Bulgaria Montenegro Italy Croatia Slovenia Austria Switzerland Ukraine Belarus Lithuania Latvia Estonia Russia Germany Belgium Netherlands Northern Ireland Ireland
  • 5. 9 June - July 8 Kraków In Your Pocket JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITYJAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY It may be hard to believe, but the young reprobates you see staggering out of Kraków’s bars and clubs actually represent the country’s educational elite. Kraków’s Jagiellonian Univer- sity is rated as Poland’s best institute of higher learning, as well as being one of the oldest in the world - in Central Europe only Prague’s Charles University predates it. Its story begins in 1364 when, after years of pleading, King Kazimierz the Great finally persuaded Pope Urban V to grant permission to establish a seat of higher learning in Kraków, which the King primarily funded with proceeds from the nearby Wieliczka salt mines. Three years later the school bell was ringing in the lessons, namely philosophy, law and medicine. Origi- nally named the ‘Kraków Academy’, the university started to flourish in the following century when math, theology and astrology were introduced, attracting eminent scholars from across Europe. The rapid expansion necessitated a larger campus and the building today known as Collegium Maius was built in the latter half of the 15th century. It was here that Nicolas Copernicus - who would later go on to revolutionise our understanding of the universe - studied from 1491 -1495. The university’s ‘golden age’ was certainly during the Polish Renaissance in the early 16th century when the Jagiellonian Library was established and the school set an attendance record that wouldn’t be surpassed until the late 18th century. When the country’s capital was moved to Warsaw in 1596, the university’s fortunes declined along with those of the city. During Poland’s era of partitions the university was actually threatened with closure before being saved by a decree from Austrian Emperor Ferdinand I. In an about-face from their initial hostilities towards the university, the Austrians began to invest heavily in its development and by the 1870s the school had re-established its lofty reputation. It was at this time that the Neo-Gothic Collegium Novum was built and one of the university’s greatest moments came in 1883 when professors Zygmunt Wróblewski and Karol Olszewski achieved the liquefaction of nitrogen and oxygen. Concurrent with a common theme throughout Polish history the prosperity was again fleeting. In 1939 the Nazis occupied Kraków and arrested the university’s professors during ‘Son- deraktion Krakau,’ sending them to the Sachsenhausen and Dachau concentration camps. Many never returned, but those that did helped form the underground resistance university which was in place until the war’s end. Jagiellonian also played its part in the anti-totalitarian protests of the ‘60s and ‘80s, and today is the once again the top-ranked training ground of Poland’s educational elite. Poland’s entry into the European Union in 2004 has greatly increased its fortunes and funding with the development of new departments and better facilities, including a new so-called ‘Third Campus’ or ‘The 600th Anniversary Campus’ in the Pychowice district which is slated for completion in 2015. For the 2012/2013 academic year the university enrolled over 51,000 students in 59 programmes of study. What to See Jagiellonian is made up of several campuses and academies all over Kraków, but the main points of interest to tourists are all clustered around Św. Anny and Jagiellońska Streets (B-3), just minutes from the southwest corner of the market square. Collegium Maius - the university’s oldest building and home to its museum - shouldn’t be missed. Adjacent is the picturesque Professors’ Garden, and around the corner you’ll find the beautiful Collegium Novum, beside which stands a monument to Copernicus. Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Mu- seum) B-3, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, The university’s oldest building (and one of the oldest in Kraków), Collegium Maius was built as the university’s main campus in the late 14th century, 36 years after the university’s founding. A century later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, visitors can take a 45-minute guided tour of the museum in English which includes the lecture halls, common rooms, professors’ quarters, library and treasury. Along the way you’ll see some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors’ maces and other university memorabilia, as well as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. Tours take place Mon - Fri at 13:00, and you should call or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place. If not, don’t fret; shorter, more basic English- language tours (omitting the gallery and scientific instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 minutes throughout the day (though we’re informed it’s wise to arrange these beforehand as well). Recently a separate interactive exhibit about mathematics titled a number (‘Wszystko...jest liczbą’) has opened (open 09:00 - 13:30; closed Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 7/5zł). The building’s court- yard also houses a gift shop and cafe, and don’t miss the beautiful Professors’ Garden just next door (accessible via a beautiful painted passageway). Q Open 10:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł for permanent exhibit, 16/12zł for entire museum (including gallery and scientific instruments) or tour. Admission free on Tuesdays between 15:00 and 18:00 for a self-guided tour. Collegium Novum B-3, ul. Gołębia 24. The main build- ing of Jagiellonian University, Collegium Novum (Latin: New College) was built in 1873-1887 to a neo-gothic design by Feliks Księżarski to match the style of Collegium Maius. Subsidised with money from Vienna when Kraków was a ‘property’ of Austrian Galicia, the building was opened for the university’s 500th anniversary after years of contro- versy and debate. In addition to the gorgeous façade, the building contains a beautiful assembly hall (Aula) where a painting of Austria’s Franz Jozeph I hung until a group of students famously shredded it in a symbolic act calling for the restoration of an independent Polish Republic in 1918. Several important paintings remain, however, including portraits of university founders Kazimierz the Great and Władysław Jagiełło, and Jan Matejko’s Copernicus: Con- versation with God. A plaque commemorating ‘Sonderak- tion Krakau’ can be found in the first floor lecture hall from which the university’s professors were arrested. Today the university’s administrative centre, Collegium Novum is not open to tourists, but you can have a poke around if you pose as a student. A monument to Copernicus also stands nearby. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Attended by over 51,000 students annually, Krakow’s job dodgers deserve more attention than most. The uni’s first female student, named Nawojka, achieved enrolment 300 years before it was permitted by passing as one of the boys. Of the alumni none have achieved more than Nicolas Copernicus, a product of the class of 1492. Lauded as the founder of modern astronomy, you might know him for being the first to assert that the earth orbited the sun. Fortunately for him it took the church over 100 years to decide that agreeing with him merited being burnt at the stake. Other students of note include Jan Matejko, who would go on to paint many of Poland’s most revered works of art, and whose house on ul. Floriańska is today a museum. Karol Wojtyla, better known as Pope John Paul II studied in the philology department, as did the Nobel Laureates Wisława Szym- borska and Ivo Andrie. Not that all students proved so diligent; Stanisław Lem, who would go on to pen the sci-fi classic Solaris, also studied at Jagiellonian, but hated his medical studies so much he flunked his exams on purpose. From its early beginnings Jagiellonian’s students proved a bit of a handful - exempt from local justice and answerable only to the rector they frequently ran wild, the Hungarian students particularly prone to launching pogroms on the town’s Jewish population when that was in fashion. And if they sound bad then they’re not a patch on Faust and Twardowski, two mystical (and mythical) sorcerers who allegedly studied at Jagiellonian before gaining notoriety for entering pacts with the devil. Notable Alumni Born in Torun (northern PL) on February 19, 1473, Nicolaus Copernicus went on to become the man today known as the ‘Father of Modern Astronomy,’ but that certainly wasn’t his only talent. A true ‘Renaissance man’ (like Danny Devito in the 1994 film?), Copernicus was also an eminent mathematician, physi- cian, polyglot, classics scholar, translator, governor, diplomat, influential economist, and had a doctorate in canon law (no, not like Danny Devito). The youngest of four children, his father, a copper trader from Kraków, died when he was just 10, and in 1488 young Nicolaus was sent by his uncle, the canon at Frombork Cathedral, to the Cathedral school of Wloclawek where he received a first class humanist education. In 1488 Copernicus began his studies at University of Kraków (now Jagiel- lonian University), where he likely formed the basis of his own doctrine on the structure of the known universe, before leaving without a degree in 1495 to join his uncle in Warmia, later travelling to Italy. In 1509 Copernicus began publishing serious works, the first being Latin translations of the work of an ob- scure Greek poet, Theophylactus Simocattes. He soon began dedicating more and more time to his theories on astronomy, and in 1514 published a hand-written book, The Little Commentary, setting out his revolutionary theories of a heliocentric universe. In the same year he began writing De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium - a completely heretical work for its time that would eventually propel him to international infamy after his death. In 1514, however, his renown had already reached such heights that he was approached by the Pope to revise the Roman calendar, which was known to be out of phase with the Moon. De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium was eventually published in Nuremburg at the very end of Copernicus’ life in March 1543, almost 30 years after he started writing it. Although many before him had hinted at the unthinkable, that the Earth wasn’t the centre of the universe and orbited the sun, it was Nicolaus Coperni- cus who first stated it so publicly. Nicolaus Copernicus outlived the publication of his masterwork, which he himself had delayed, by just two months, dying at age 70 in Frombork – a town on the Baltic coast in northern Poland where he had settled at the end of his life. His final resting place was never recorded, but his remains were discovered and confirmed by DNA testing beneath Frombork Cathedral in 2005. The matter of Copernicus’ nationality has long been a point of contention, particularly between Germans and Poles. To ascribe him a nationality today is largely point- less, since people in his day identified with the region of their birth more than any ‘nation’ in the modern sense. In Copernicus’ case he was born in Prussian territory with a German cultural background that was subject to the Polish crown. In the tradition of his time, he published his work in Latin, though there is ample evidence that he spoke both German and Polish. In Kraków, a monu- ment to Copernicus can be found in the Planty near Collegium Novum (ul. Gołębia 24, B-3), and the building where he studied and attended lectures - Collegium Maius (ul. Jagiellońska 15, B-3) - is today a museum. Nicolaus Copernicus After the invasion of Poland, the Nazis set about culturally crippling the country by eliminating its intellectual elite. Kraków, Poland’s cultural capital, was an obvious target as the Nazis intended to Germanise the entire region. Jagiellonian University, the second oldest in Europe, was deemed to be of particular danger to Nazi plans of brainwashing the population and under the codename Sonderaktion Krakau, the Nazis orchestrated an at- tack against Jagiellonian’s academics. On November 6th, 1939, German authorities ordered all professors to attend a lecture on ‘German plans for Polish education’. When 144 professors gathered in lecture hall 66 of Col- legium Novum, as you can guess, no lecture took place and everyone in the building was arrested. The flimsy pretence was that the university was ‘operating without German consent’ and all 183 detainees were sent to Sachsenhausen or Dachau. Although initially spared the gas chambers, the dire and disease-ridden conditions of the concentration camps in winter were enough to claim the lives of 15 professors before international outcry pressured the Germans into releasing some of them. In February 1940, 101 professors over the age of 40 were released, though 5 died from poor health within days. The other 62 arrested became victims of the concentration camps. Upon returning to Kraków the survivors formed an underground resistance university in 1942, of which Karol Wojtyła - the future Pope John Paul II - was a stu- dent. Today a plaque in front of Collegium Novum (B-3, ul. Gołębia 24) commemorates those professors who died or disappeared and black flags are hung from all university buildings each year on November 6th. Sonderaktion Krakau Collegium Novum
  • 6. 10 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Kraków In Your Pocket exit the motorway. Still, it’s one of the best stretches of road in the country until the bottleneck begins outside Kraków near Wieliczka. Driving around the city is incred- ibly frustrating with constant roadwork being done, one- way streets and seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive down: violate this rule and the chances of getting a fine are incredibly high, whether you’ve realised your infraction or not. Kraków’s road network is not at all adequate for the volume of cars on its roads and parking is yet another challenge. To say nothing of horse-drawn carriages full of tourists and trams, the lack of bicycle paths in the city centre also means sharing the street with unwieldy bicycles above the laws of the road, and the fact that they’re getting from point A to B twice as fast as you is yet another smack in the face. Put it all together and we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour of public transportation at the first opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and you’ll be safest leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is available under the large parking signs on the sidewalk and you’ll have to buy a pass from the neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, though parking machines have now replaced them in many areas. The cost of street parking is 3zł for the first hour, 3.50zł for the second, 4.10 for the third, and after that back to 3zł. Areas where parking is available are also marked on the map in the back of this guide. By Plane Kraków Airport ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00, Some 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport is small, modern and easy to navigate, though amenities are limited. Consisting of two small terminals, the domestic terminal offers little more than a pricey cafe, newsstand and ATM (bankomat), whereas in the international terminal you’ll find currency exchange, ATMs (bankomat), a cafe, restaurant, tourist information point (open 09:00 - 19:00), and 24hr lockers (9zł). Getting through check-in and security is a snap, the only hassle of the airport being that you have to walk around its entire perimeter to get from one terminal to the other (great design job there, boys). The best way to get to the airport from the Old Town, and vice versa, is generally by train. A free shuttle bus runs regularly between the international and domestic terminals, picking passengers up directly outside the en- trance and taking them the short distance to the Kraków Airport train stop (coordinated with the train times). Train tickets are purchased from the conductor on board the train, and now cost 12 zł one way. If leaving from Kraków Głowny train station, departures (odjazdy) to the Airport are frequent from Track 1; buy your ticket from machines on the platform or on board for no extra fee. Trains from the airport run frequently between 06:00 and 23:00 with a journey time of about 15-20mins. Public bus numbers 292 and 208 also depart from beside the International terminal entrance. This is a much cheaper option, though the journey to the train station takes about 35-40mins. Night bus 902 makes the same trip with departures at 23:25, 00:21, 01:21, 02:21, 03:21 and 03:55. The airport now also has its own trusted ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances. The advantages are a set price of 69zł from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time price hikes. Solid. By Bus Kraków Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda. International buses arrive and depart from the bus terminal (Dworzec Autobusowy, ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) behind the train station. Here you’ll find a snack bar, restaurant, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00). Lockers for left luggage cost 6-14zł (depending on size) for 24 hours, how- ever are unavailable when the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a separate night time waiting room. Tunnels connect the bus and train stations. Still the best way to get into town, with or without getting lost, is to make a right from the bus station into the train station, walk past the platforms and follow the stairs or ramp to the left back into daylight (beware getting sucked into the shopping mall). Cut through the main ticket hall of the train station, cross the square in front of Galeria Krakowska and take the underpass into the Planty. Congrats, you’re in the Old Town. Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey. These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level with tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus station. For exact travel times check which is now in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some des- tinations like Wieliczka and Niepołomice. Many mini-buses leave from the lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2), a short walk from the main bus station. Q Ticket Office open 07:00 - 19:45. By Car Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. While the road quality issue is being slowly addressed with EU directives and funding, the country’s clueless drivers are a trickier fix to be sure. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur- ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/ alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your licence and passport at all times when driving. With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time being there’s only one major highway leading into Kraków via Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesn’t come free. An 9zł toll is paid when you enter and again when you
  • 7. 12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 13ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Car Rental All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign license or international driving permit. [Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licenses and run the risk of hassle from the police.] Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car; ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face). Acecar C-3, ul. Bracka 8/1a, tel. (+48) 508 13 36 51, Large selection of cars. Competitive prices. Insurance and unlimited mileage included in rental price. Friendly, reliable service. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Dragon-VIP J-4, ul. Rejtana 7, tel. (+48) 509 58 88 60, A wide choice of vehicles from small cars like the Peugeot 207, through mid-size like the Peugeot 308 to more exclusive vehicles. It is also possible to hire a car with a driver. Delivery and collection of cars in Kraków is free. GPS is also available free of charge with some cars. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Outside of these hours on request. Hertz H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 62 62, www. Also at Kraków Airport, open daily 07:00 - 24:00, tel. 12 285 50 84. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Sixt ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 12 639 32 16, QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. E u r o p c a r J - 4 , u l . Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96, Offering both short and long term rental options with 9 different categories of car available for your individual needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your specific re- quirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including Kraków-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside of these hours open on request. J o k a D - 2 , u l . Z a ci s ze 7 (3 r d floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, A wide range of cars in- cluding Audis, BMWs, Subarus up to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Outside of these hours on request. Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 601 20 07 02, Internation- ally trusted service offering a range a vehicles from the Nissan Micra to luxury mini- vans. Located here near the train station and also at the airport (ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, open 08:00 - 22:00). Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. By Train Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-1, Pl. Jana Nowaka - Jeziorańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp. pl. Kraków’s main railway station, ‘Dworzec Główny’, is conveniently situated at the northern edge of the Old Town, making taxis and trams largely unnecessary for those with accommodation in the Old Town. Not so convenient are the ongoing renovation works - part of a plan to transfer the railway station completely underground and transform it into a modern transportation hub incorporating the bus station as well. To date, all of the platforms have been modernised and are open, however work on other areas of the station, including one of the tunnels, are ongoing. Travellers should anticipate some minor confusion and inconvenience until all the work is finished, which from what we hear should take place in the last quarter of this year. Upon disembarking your train, you’ll be herded underground into a newly modernised tunnel, which slyly leads straight into the neighbouring Galeria Krakowska shopping mall; head up the stairs before the entrance to avoid getting lost in the mall. With no facilities available in the tunnel, head down the path alongside the tracks to the original main hall where you’ll find an ATM (bankomat), currency exchange booth (kantor), and left luggage lockers. Stepping out onto the square in front of the train station’s main hall you’ll see Galeria Krakowska to your right, a bus and tram stop ahead and to the left (on ul. Lubicz) and a taxi rank straight ahead on ul. Pawia. It is less than a ten minute walk to Rynek Główny (the market square) from the train sta- tion, arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe and highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived. Crossing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels Hotel and following the crowds through the underpass to the other side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to the majority of Kraków’s hostels, hotels and nightlife; bear right, make a left on Floriańska Street and you’re on the ‘path of kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived. Now how to escape: Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by their yellow timetables; arrivals boards (przyjazdy) are the white ones. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - - which has limited but effective English language functionality. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge. [Note that tickets for the shuttle service to Kraków Balice airport, which runs every 30 minutes, can be purchased from machines on platform 1, or on-board the train for no extra fee.] The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of train, which basically determine the length of the journey, its comfort and cost. Express InterCity (EIC) and Express (EX) trains are the fastest and most expensive, giving you an assigned seat for the extra money. EuroCity (EC) trains offer international connections and require the paid premium for seat reservation as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), which offer second class compartments free of reser- vation fees (though you may end up sitting in the aisle), and InterREGIO (IR) trains which have no seat reservation fees. With these budget options you pay less, but the journey will take longer and may try your good humour with the potential for overcrowding and being forced to sit of stand in the aisle. Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 00:00 to 01:00. The work of architect Peter Rosenbaum - who would go on to design Wrocław’s immaculate station ten years later - the main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with neo-renaissance decorations like turrets and crenella- tions whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms were added in the immediate years before and after. In spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which included the creation of a water tower, printing house and residential estate for railway workers - plans were drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit by only 300 metres. Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell under threat, with plans to build a new one in the govern- ment quarter located across the river in Dębniki. Even after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is king and the commies had run out of it; the only sign of their grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT building, lovingly referred to by locals as ‘Szkieletor’. The years since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted Kraków’s train station any peace either, however the changes have largely been met positively as the area received a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and a new plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall now represent Kraków’s main gateway into the city. Presently the subject of a 63 million PLN investment to create a brand new transportation hub connecting the train, bus, airport shuttle and local tram services underground, Kraków’s train station is set to receive a new, modernised 12,000m2 ticket hall, as well as new waiting areas, a cafe, restaurants and passenger service points such as tourist information. The new transportation hub will be fully accessible to the disabled and is pencilled in for full completion no sooner than December 2013, though that date is highly optimistic. In the meantime, only one of the platform access tunnels is open (so expect some confusion) and the old station building appears to be headed towards redundancy and the sales rack. However, lovers of the historical building need not fret just yet. The local government is in talks to take over the classic Rosenbaum building from the train company and convert it into a gallery. Here’s hoping it’s put to good use. Station History Wikipedia/Axe
  • 8. 15BASICS June - July 14 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Kraków In Your Pocket Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around, but beware of the cowboys sometimes waiting outside the train station and some clubs. Make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed and a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likeli- hood of any funny business. There is a taxi rank across the square from the main train station on ul. Pawia (D-2) or walk up the stairs from the platforms to find reliable Radio Taxi 919 on the rooftop parking lot. Expect to pay 7zł plus about 2.30zł per kilometre. At night expect to pay up to 50% more for the pleasure. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you. Barbakan Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 61, MegaTaxi,tel.(+48)1219625, Nova Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 69. Radio Taxi 919, tel. (+48) 12 191 91, Taxis 98 Customs If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take 10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer. Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies depending by type;photos‹6,000zł,otherart‹16,000zł,forexample);ifthese conditions are met, the gallery curator then can (and should) provide you with a ‘zaświadczenie’ (permission document) describing the artwork’s price and when and where it was cre- ated. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value, you must get permission from the ‘Wojewódzki Konserwator Zabytków’ (Regional Curator’s Office) to take it out of Poland; bear in mind thatthisprocesswilllikelytake2-3months.Booksmustbeless than 100 years old and under 6,000zł in value in order to leave the country; otherwise, permission must be obtained from the NationalLibrary.Obviously,problemsarisewhenpurchasesare madeatbazaarsorfleamarketswherevendorscannotprovide thenecessarydocuments;ifthereisanydoubtaboutthevalue or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an ‘Antykwariat’ (antiques dealer - see shopping) for advice. Electricity Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug converter. The best place to pick these up is at home though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an electrical store if they can’t provide a converter themselves. Health & Emergency In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the operator. Between June 1st and September 30th however, English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using a separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist season. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo. Internet Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland, with practically every café and restaurant offering wi-fi to customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the network often requires nothing more than a password, which you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with a simple, “Poproszę o hasło do internetu?” If you don’t have your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below. Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Dietla 69, tel. (+48) 12 397 80 45, Six PCs complete with ev- erything you need to keep in touch, plus printing and postal services. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Computer use 5zł/hr. NanduB-3, ul. Wiślna 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 26, www. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 5zł for first hour, 4zł per hour thereafter. Printing and cd-burning available. Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km). Longest River Kraków is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river, flowing through Warsaw and into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Highest Point The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and the city lies 219m above sea level. Population (2011) Poland: 38,538,447 Warsaw: 1,708,491 Kraków: 759,137 Łódź: 728,892 Wrocław: 631,235 Poznań: 554,696 Gdańsk: 460,517 Katowice: 310,764 Local Time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Kraków it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. Facts & Figures The enterprising tourist should consider picking up the Kraków Tourist Card, a superb piece of plastic that allows you free travel on trams and buses, day and night. The best bit is free entry to over 30 Kraków museums - an impressive savings for the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are avail- able, priced at 60zł and 80zł respectively and they are valid until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse. Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Kraków Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card symbol. Available at all tourist information offices, for a full list of vendors and benefits visit Tourist Card Public Transport While Krakow has no un- derground metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00-23:00, with night buses continuing less frequently after that. Get tickets from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines on board trams and buses do not accept bills, so it is important to have some change handy. Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed, allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the alloted time. A standard fare is good for 20mins at a cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic. If you’re going a longer distance outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł. 1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend family passes for 16.00zł are also options, or consider the Kraków Tourist Card (see Basics), which includes unlimited free travel on trams and buses amongst its benefits. Note that ISIC and Euro‹26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26. Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket on-board. Beware that sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel on the lines hand- ing out costly fines to those without valid or proper tickets. MPK (Krakow City Transport) ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 13, tel. (+48) 12 191 50, Use this website to find local bus schedules.
  • 9. 17CULTURE & EVENTS June - July 16 BASICS Kraków In Your Pocket Law & Order In general Kraków is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travel- lers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use the guarded car parks we list in Arrival & Transport. Perhaps the biggest danger in Kraków is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women who take an overactive interest in them and suggest go- ing to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens. Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to com- plete prats who’ve thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Kraków’s premier drunk tank on ul. Rozrywka (which literally translates as ‘Entertain- ment Street’), where you can expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course). Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport, Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot. Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of May 17, 2013 based on €1 = 4.14zł Product Price (zł) Price (€) McDonald's Big Mac 8.70 zł € 2.10 Snickers 1.59 zł € 0.38 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.90 zł € 5.53 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 zł € 0.72 0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 zł € 2.17 Loaf of white bread 2.79 zł € 0.67 20 Marlboros 13.60 zł € 3.29 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.41 zł € 1.31 Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.80 zł € 0.92 Market Values Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ’forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Kraków and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)! Basic Pronunciation: ’ą’ sounds like ’on’ in the French ’bon’ ’ę’ sounds like ’en’ as in the French ’bien’ ’ó’ is an open ’o’ sound like ’oo’ in ’boot’ ’c’ like the ’ts’ in ’bits’’ ’j’ like the ’y’ in ’yeah’ ’w’ is pronounced like the English ’v’ ’ł’ like the ’w’ in ’win’ ’ń’ like the ’ny’ in ’canyon’ ’cz’ and ’ć’ like the ’ch’ in ’beach’ ’dz’ like the ’ds’ in ’beds’ ’rz’ and ’ż’ like the ’su’ in ’treasure’ ’sz’ and ’ś’ like the ’sh’ in ’ship’ ’drz’ like the ’g’ in ’George’ ’r’ is always rolled Yes Tak (Tahk) No Nie (Nyeh) Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch) Hello/Good day (formal) Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri) Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya) Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats) Please Proszę (Prosheh) Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh) Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham) My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…) I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee) Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.) Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!) Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.) Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!) Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko) Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…) Language Smarts Art Galleries Art Space C-3, ul. Św. Marka 22, tel. (+48) 607 68 70 85, 13:30 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52, 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. International Cultural Centre (Międzynarodowe Centrum Kultury)C-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 00, 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. Jan Fejkiel Gallery C-2, ul. Sławkowska 14, tel. (+48) 12 429 15 53, 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriańska 18/5 (2nd floor), tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66, www. 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Polonia House (Wspólnota Polska) C-3, Rynek Główny 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 43 55, www.swp.krakow. pl.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal- 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Space Gallery B-2, ul. Św. Marka 7, tel. (+48) 12 432 29 20, 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission free. Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Węgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Cinemas ARS Cinema C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12 421 41 99, office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 12-20zł. Cinema CityJ-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, of- fice open 09:15 - 22:45. Tickets 16-32zł. Cinema City Plaza L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 14-30zł. IMAX Kraków L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 18-30zł. Kijów.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00 33, office open 30 minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime. Tickets 12-25zł. Kino Agrafka C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. (+48) 12 430 01 79, office open 30 minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime. Tickets 10-18zł. Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423 07 68, office open 45 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 12-22zł. Cultural Centres British Council C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 428 59 30, 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
  • 10. 18 CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket City Tourist Information (Punkt Informacji Miejskiej) C-3, ul. Św. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 77 87, Helpful people who can tell you what’s going on and who can sell you tickets as well. Also the publishers of Karnet, a comprehensive monthly listing of cultural events in Polish and English. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Information & Tickets Cervantes Institute C-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel. (+48) 12 421 32 55, 09:30 - 19:30, Fri 09:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library open 12:00 - 15:00, 16:30 - 19:45, Tue, Wed 09:30 - 13:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 14:00 and every last Sat of the month 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Note opening hours may be subject to change. Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek Główny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, krakau.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library open 11:00 - 16:00; Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. Closed from July 29. JewishCommunityCentre(CentrumSpołeczności Żydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Judaica Foundation (Fundacja Judaica) D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 25zł, group ticket 60zł, Tue free. Guided tours 100zł. Rotunda (Centrum Kultury Rotunda)H-3, ul. Olean- dry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16, office open 16:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets depending on repertoire. Opera Stages Kraków Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow. pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the performance. Tickets 15-200zł. Philharmonic Stages Kraków Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska) B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www. office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before performance. Closed Mon. Note that the Philharmonic takes a summer break from June 22 to September 27. Tickets 15-50zł. Theatre Stages Stary Teatr (Old Theatre) C-3, ul. Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, Q Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and 2 hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Note that the Old Theatre will be taking their annual summer break from July 9. Tickets 15-50zł. Y Teatr Nowy (New Theatre) E-7, ul. Gazowa 21, tel. (+48) 12 426 45 06, Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 2 hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Note that the theatre takes its annual summer break starting June 24. Tickets 30-40zł. THE EXHIBIT THAT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE ALSO IN GDAŃSK FROM MAY 2ND
  • 11. 20 CULTURE & EVENTS 21CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July 28.06 Friday Richie Kotzen C-2, Lizard King Club, ul. Św. Tomasza 11a. Born in 1970 in Reading, PA, Kotzen began learning to play the electric guitar at age 7, inspired by KISS. His later influences included Jimi Hendrix, SRV, Eddie Van Halen, and Jason Becker. He became famous in 1991 when he joined the rock band Poison; unfortunately, he got kicked out two years later for having an affair with the drummer’s fiancee. He released 19 solo albums and plenty of collaborations, and says he is most proud of Vertú, his 1999 project with Stanley Clarke and Lenny White. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 70zł. Available at and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 29.06 Saturday Sting Oświęcim, MOSiR Stadium, ul. Legionów 15, www. No introduction necessary, naturally: the English musician has received 16 Grammies, 3 Brit Awards, a Golden Globe, an Emmy, and several Oscar nominations, and if you don’t know his name, you should weep silently in shame. He is currently on his Back to Bass Tour (has been since 2011), which began with the release of two compilation albums commemorating 25 years of his solo career. He played in Warsaw and Łódź last year, and now is back to rock the audience in Oświęcim. Q Concert starts at 16:30. Tickets 169-850zł. Available at and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 02.07 Tuesday Gov’t Mule G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4. Gov’t Mule, rocking out since 1994, have long been considered a staple act at American music festivals; they released not only many studio albums, but also a fair amount of live concert recordings. The group was founded by Warren Haynes, the longtime guitarist of The Allman Brothers Band, and Allen Woody, who unfortunately died in 2000. The band currently comprises Haynes, Matt Abts, Danny Louis, and Jorgen Carlsson. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 150zł. Available at and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). Concerts 09.06 Sunday Freddie Mercury Rock Opera D-2, Słowacki Theatre, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, www. A tribute to the one and only Freddie Mercury, the flamboyant lead vocalist of Queen and one of the greatest rock singers of all time, this extraordinary show will encompass African and Oriental music of his childhood, opera and ballet etudes he was fascinated with, and Queen’s biggest hits like “We Are the Champions” and “Another One Bites the Dust”. There will be over one hundred international artists on stage, including dancers, actors, vocalists, and the Royal Symphony Orchestra. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120-250zł. Available at and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 10.06 Monday Papa Roach G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4, www.metalmind. The story of Papa Roach begins in 1993 Vacaville, CA, with Jacobby Shaddix and Dave Buck- ner meeting during a high school football game. Two additional group members later, they performed Jimi Hendrix’s song “Fire” for the school talent show (which they did not win). From these humble beginnings grew an internationally known rock band that has sold over 18 million album copies, been nominated for Gram- mies, and gone on countless tours. On this particular European tour, they’re promoting their newest album, The Connection, which came out last year. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100-120zł. Available at www., Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00) and before the concert. 15.06 Saturday Bonobo G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4, www.bonobomusic. com. Bonobo, aka Simon Green, is a British downtempo/ trip-hop/electronic musician and DJ. He came out with his first song, “Terrapin” in 1999, and released a fully self- produced album Animal Magic two years later, becoming one of the “new downtempo pioneers”. Three years after his last tour and the premiere of Black Sands, he’s back with a new album called The North Borders. The man himself calls Borders a natural evolution and continuation of the Sands music palette. The concert version is sure to have some delightful small tweaks from the original. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 115zł. Available at and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 25.06 Tuesday Portishead ArcelorMittal Tinning Hall, ul. Ujastek 1, www. Formed in 1991 in Bristol (and named after the town 8 km to the west), this trip hop band has only put out three albums to date, and is cur- rently working on their fourth one, though - to quote Geoff Barrow - “this could mean another f*cking 10 years” before it’s released. They’re spending this year mostly on touring through Europe, including Poland. They’ll play in Kraków as part of the Sacrum Profanum Festival. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 135-199zł. Available at and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 13.06 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday 4th International Kraków Choir Festival ‘Cracovia Cantans’ Event takes place in various locations. Check description for more info., www.krakowchoirfesti- This is the 4th edition of the Cracovia Cantans International Choir Festival. Though young, the festival is certainly drawing attention and gaining momentum. This year, over 30 choirs from all over Europe (Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Latvia, Norway, Poland, Russia, Slovakia, Sweden, UK) as well as Singapore will perform at various Kraków churches. Here’s the programme: June 13, Thursday: 19:00 Light and Song Concert, St. Catherine Church, ul. Augustiańska 7 (D-7) June 14, Friday: 15:30 - 17:15 Competition singing, SS Peter & Paul’s Church, ul. Grodzka 54 (C-4) 19:00 Light and Song Concert, St. Catherine Church, ul. Augustiańska 7 (D-7) 19:30 Best of Choral Music Concert, Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2 (C-2) June 15, Saturday: 10:00 - 19:00 Competition singing, Concert Hall of Karłowicz Music School, Osiedle Centrum E2, Nowa Huta (O-4): 19:00 Light and Song Concert, St. Catherine Church, ul. Augustiańska 7 (D-7) 19:15 Concert, ul. Misjonarska 37 (G-1) 19:30 Best of Choral Music Concert, Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2 (C-2) 21:15 Singing After Dark Concert, SS Peter & Paul’s Church, ul Grodzka 54 (C-4) June 16, Sunday: 19:45 Best of Choral Music Concert, Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2 (C-2) Q Admission free. Cracovia Cantans 2013 12.03 Tuesday - 30.06 Sunday The Human Body K-4, Fabryka Club, ul. Zabłocie 23, www.human- Fascinating, informative, and a tad bit macabre: exhibits featuring preserved human bodies have been increasingly popular in recent years. If you’re not too faint of heart, and up for a spellbinding journey into the beauty and complexity of human anatomy, the Human Body Exhibition will be showcasing over 200 thematically organized organs and bodies. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 50zł during the week, 60zł on weekends; dis- counts for students, seniors, children, and the disabled. Available at and the venue. The Human Body 14.06 Friday - 16.06 Sunday 5th International French Song Festival. Edith Piaf Grand Prix Event takes place in various locations. Check de- scription for more info., tel. (+48) 12 421 28 23, This year’s 5th edition of the French Song Festival coincides with Edith Piaf’s 50th death anniversary. The festival begins on June 14th at 10:00 at Radio Kraków, al. Słowackiego 22 (I-1) with final auditions of 28th semi-finalists. Each candidate will present two French songs, including one by Edith Piaf. The list of laureates will be announced at 16:00 on the same day, followed by a concert entitled “French Songs Yesterday and Today” at 18:00. The festival will continue at the same location the following day: at 18:00 there will be a conference about the life of Piaf (with an introduction by Bernard Marchois, the owner of the Edith Piaf Museum in Paris) and a French song marathon with a Jacqueline Boyer concert at 19:00 and a Jean-Luc Bruno concert at 20:30. On the last day head to Jagiellonian University’s Auditorium Maximum (ul. Krupnicza 33, H-2) for the 5th French Song Festival Final Concert and awards ceremony at 18:00 - there will be special guests, performances by the laureates, and a display of exhibits from the Edith Piaf Museum. Q Admission free, prior reservation required. Email or call to reserve a pass; it will be available for pick-up at the Polish-French Friendship Association office (Al. Daszyńskiego 7, E-4. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun) from June 5. French Song Festival 06.06 Thursday Lajkonik Parade Event takes place in various locations. Check description for more info., This year’s Lajkonik parade is the central part of a programme called “Roots of Cracow Traditions Enchanted in the City’s Legends” organised by the Historical Museum in Kraków. The parade will be accompanied by art workshops for kids (11:00-13:00 on May 28th and 29th in the Barbican (D-2), or the Krzysztofory Palace (Rynek Główny 35, C-3) in case of rain) and a historical reconstruction of a Tatar camp, including a battle reenactment (15:00-18:00 on June 8th in the Barbican). The Lajkonik and his procession are set to march along their traditional route, which has remained unchanged for years.Q Full schedule available at our website. Admission free. Lajkonik Parade Photo: Elżbieta Lang, MHK More events at
  • 12. 22 CULTURE & EVENTS 23CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July 01.06 Saturday - 31.07 Wednesday Chopin Concerts at the Bonerowski Palace C-3, Bonerowski Palace, ul. Św. Jana 1, tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, Enjoy the music of Poland’s greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin, as performed by pianists Witold Wilczek, Weronika Krówka, Dobróchna Krówka, Kazuko Tsuji and others. Concerts are every day and a glass of wine is included in the price. Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 55zł. Available at the reception desk of Bonerowski Palace (open 24hrs) and before the concert. 01.06 Saturday - 31.07 Wednesday Classical, Opera, Film & Tango: The Best Concerts in Cracow C-3, St. Adalbert’s Church, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, The Royal Chamber Orchestra is made up of outstand- ing musicians, many Krakow Academy of Music alumni. St Adalbert’s is said to be the oldest church in Krakow and, thanks to its baroque dome, provides unique acoustics. Concerts are every day. Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 65zł. Available from 10:00 in front of the church. 01.06 Saturday - 31.07 Wednesday Folk Show D-2, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, This famous secessionist cafe is a great place to encounter Polish folk culture during these 90-minute performances taking place on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Enjoy traditional Polish food while being entertained by a local orchestra, folk danc- ers, and the legendary Lajkonik himself. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 85zł. Available at Jama Michalika everyday from 09:00. 01.06 Saturday - 31.07 Wednesday Klezmer Music tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts. com. Enjoy Jewish klezmer concerts performed by local virtuosos on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays in Hotel Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 12, E-6) and Saturdays at the Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwór 18, E-6). Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 50zł. Available before the concerts. Live Music - Cracow Concerts Main Market Square EVERY DAY 7:00 PM Exhibitions 18.04 Thursday - 15.09 Sunday Collected Works of Jan Matejko D-3, Jan Matejko House, ul. Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, Jan Matejko is one of those names you should probably know if you’re an art buff or interested in Polish culture or history, and should definitely know if you happen to be both. The great Polish painter is celebrating 120th death-day this year, and he should be pleased with the plethora of events the National Museum in Kraków is organising for the occasion, including this exhibition of all sorts of items the prolific artist liked to collect in his free time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł. 16.05 Thursday - 29.09 Sunday Economics in Art K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, This is MOCAK’s third exhibition in a series connecting art to other areas of life: the previous two were “Sport in Art” and “History in Art”. As it turns out, economics, and the recent world economic crisis, have been a huge inspiration for many contemporary artists - enough to make an exhibition with diverse works by well over thirty individuals (including Banksy!). The themes will be value, ethics,humanistaspectsofeconomics,andart’sdependence on market forces. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free. 16.05 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday Ghislain Dussart - Collages K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, Photographer Ghis- lain Dussart’s muse throughout the years was Brigitte Bardot, whom he followed since the very early days of her career. He is responsible for some of the most iconic and recognisable shots of the 50s/60s sex symbol, but this exhibition is about her lesser known side - the collages feature somewhat BDSM photographs of Bardot (and Dussart’s other muses) taken on the French Riviera. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free. 16.05 Thursday - 29.09 Sunday Spokojna Tour Now - Opening of Re Gallery K-4,MuseumofContemporaryArt,ul.Lipowa4,tel.(+48)12 263 40 00, MOCAK already has two galleries: AlphaandBeta,andnowthey’reopeningathird.ReGallerywillbea spaceforartstudents(bothPolishandinternational)toshowcase their talent and make an early mark on the art world. The gallery openingwillfeatureaconcertbystudentsoftheSpacialActivities Studio at the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw. The 26-strong orchestraledbyMirosławBałkawillperformapiecepreparedspe- cifically for the inauguration. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free. 16.05 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday Tadeusz Rolke - Rolke Studio K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, For long years, Tateusz Rolke workedasareporterandfashionphotographer,contributingtomany PolishmagazinesbeforeheemigratedtoWestGermanyinthe70s. He created his famous series entitled “Fischmarkt” in Hamburg, and released three albums after his return to Poland. The pictures showcasedinthisexhibitionallowaglimpseintohisinteractionswith modelshephotographedprofessionally,setagainstthebackground of communist Poland. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance1hourbeforeclosing.Admission10/5zł,Tuefree. 01.06 Saturday - 02.06 Sunday 13th Małopolska Dragons Parade: Modern Tradition Event takes place in various location. Check de- scription for more info., If you know anything about Kraków, you know the legend of the Wawel dragon, a dreadful beast that devoured all the livestock and terrorised the city until a brave tailor fed it sulphur covered in sheepskin, causing the monster to drink and drink and drink until it burst into a million pieces. Though similar legends abound (exchange sulphur for lime and a tailor for a butcher, and you’ve got yourself the tale of the Brno dragon), Poles are very attached to their smok wawelski, which is why this festival caught on so well (hey, thirteen years means you’re doing something right!). This year’s theme is the culture of Małopolska (Lesser Poland) - age-old traditions as well as modern customs, the collision of old and new. The organisers, aka Groteska Theatre, wonder which elements of heritage will survive unaltered, which ones will change with time, and what new traditions are waiting to crop up. The main attraction will be a parade of hand-made dragons along the old-town streets, with a prize waiting for whichever is deemed the most beautiful, but there will be plenty of other events taking place over the course of two days. Here’s the preliminary programme: Outdoor Spectacle on the Vistula River 01.06., 22:00, bend of the river by Wawel Castle This light&sound spectacle will involve fireworks, music, water curtains, and huge floating and hovering dragons (up to 25 m in length and 15 m in height). The majestic creatures will be animated by Groteska Theatre actors situated on barges, and the whole affair promises to be quite a show. Dragon Parade 02.06., 12:00-14:30, ul. Grodzka toward the Main Square Enjoy the lively and colorful throng of dragons (knights and and cheer for your favorite one. Last year over thirty artistic creations animated by over one thousand children paraded the streets. Family Picnic 01.06., 10:00-21:30 02.06., 10:00-19:00, Vistula Boulevards near the Dragon’s Den (B-5) These two day-long events will include contests, shows and performances (last year a knights tournament was part of the programme), music and dance troupes, and outdoor family fun in general. Q Admission free. Dragons Parade Photo: A. Kaczmarz
  • 13. 24 CULTURE & EVENTS 25CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Festivals 16.05 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday Kraków Photomonth Festival This annual month-long event is one of the largest photography festivals in Europe, and now in its 11th year. Beginning in mid-May all of the city’s best galleries, cafes, museums, cultural centres, and even more unique locations like public parks, private flats and post-industrial spaces, will be filled with dozens of individual and collective photo exhibitions. Check the website for more, including the numerous artist meetings, workshops, film screenings and other events that typically take place during Photo Month. Q Full schedule available at www.photomonth. com. Admission free. 31.05 Friday - 16.06 Sunday 8th Garden Holiday Festival Event takes place in various locations. Check de- scription for more info., The lovely Jagiellonian University Botanical Gardens are teaming up with Malwa Contemporary Music Club and the Art Gardens Society to create a holiday aimed at garden- ing and nature lovers. The focus will be to emphasise the importance of gardens in our lives; during the seventeen days of the festival, participants will have the opportunity to visit gardens and parks that are usually closed to the public, see botanical collections, and attend lectures. Q Full schedule available at Admission free. Chopin Concerts in the Legendary Wierzynek RestaurantC-3, Wierzynek, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, These special events run throughout the year. They are recitals by gifted members of the Kraków Music Academy, many of whom are laureates from international piano contests. The programme is as varied as you like, approaching the great man’s work from a number of perspectives. A must for all fans. Q Concerts take place everyday at 19:00. Tickets 60/40zł, VIP 220zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) as well as at the Wierzynek reception desk (open 24hrs). Classical and Film Music at St. Peter & Paul’s Church C-4, St. Peter & Paul’s Church, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Paul’s. The event beginsat20.00everyMonday,TuesdayandThursdayand onecanexpecttohearamixtureofbaroque,romanceand film music all performed by the The Orchestra of the City of Cracow. Q Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 60/40zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) and before the concert. Cracow Klezmer Concerts at the Isaac Synagogue E-6, Isaac Synagogue, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, An artistic attempt to preserve the Jewish heritage of Ka- zimierz, these concerts are performed by the Tempero. Consisting of professional musicians, all graduates of the Cracow Music University, not only are they skilled at Klezmer and other Jewish music, they have a modern approach to chamber music. All taking place at the Isaac Synagogue, one of the best preserved and largest synagogues in the country, at present used by Hassidic Chabad Lubavith Community. QConcerts start at 18:00 on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu and Sun. Tickets 60/40zł. Avail- able at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) and before the concert. Opera & Organ Concerts C-5, St. Giles Church, ul. Grodzka 65, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www. This series of Opera and Organ concerts includes works by all the greats: Mozart, Handel and Bach amongst others. The Opera Delights Concerts at St Giles Church (at the foot of The Royal Castle) give you a true taste of the city as it should be savoured. All performed by gifted graduates from the Cracow University of Music and soloists from Cracow Opera House and Philharmonic, this is not only for opera lovers, but for everyone who likes good music. Q Concerts starts at 19:00 on Wed, Fri and Sat. Tickets 60/40zł. Available at City Informa- tion Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) and before the concerts. Live Music - New Culture 16 30.06 Sunday - 28.07 Sunday 18th Summer Jazz Festival at Piwnica Pod Baranami Concerts take place in various locations., Kraków spoils its jazz fans in July when fantastic concerts take place every day for an entire month during the Summer Jazz Festival in the city’s leg- endary cult venue Piwni- ca Pod Baranami (Rynek 27, B-3). First organised in 1996 to celebrate this important artistic and literary venue’s 40th an- niversary, in addition to daily concerts in Pod Baranami’s intimate cellar the festival has gradually expanded to include larger concerts by international stars in such venues as the Philharmonic, the Opera, the market square, Mały Rynek, and various other venues around town, This year’s inaugural concert will take place in the magnificent new Małopolska Art Garden (ul. Rajska 12, A-2) on July 1st. Today Pod Baranami’s Summer Jazz Festival is certainly the biggest jazz festival in Poland, and one of the biggest in Europe, with over 300 musicians descending on Kraków to perform some 60 concerts in front of 40,000 people. There probably isn’t a renowned Polish jazz musician (and there are many of those) who hasn’t performed in this festival at least twice, and international stars whose names you might recognise include Chick Corea, Stanley Clarke, Jean Luc Ponty, Bobby McFerrin, Nigel Kennedy, Branford Marsalis and more. In fact, this year legend- ary American jazz saxophonist Branford Marsalis is back to perform a special concert at Kino Kijów (al. Krasińskiego 34, H-3) on July 16th. This year’s other big headliner is seven-time Grammy award winning jazz vocalist Al Jarreau, who will perform at the Kraków Opera (ul. Lubicz 48, J-2) on July 28th. Both of those concerts are likely to sell-out quickly, so don’t dawdle on tickets. And if you’re in Kraków during July, don’t miss this chance to hear some great live music per- formed in a venue that has become symbolic of the city’s creative spirit. For full details of this year’s pro- gramme, visit the festival’s website (also in English), or drop by the venue at Rynek 27 on the corner of the market square.QConcerts at Piwnica Pod Baranami start at 21:00, Jazz Night starts at 18:00, remaining concerts start at 20:00. Tickets for daily concerts at Piwnica Pod Baranami and Solo Piano Weekend 20-40zł, Bradford Marsalis 120-180zł, Al Jarreau 150-250zł, inauguration and final concerts 40-70zł. Tickets available at City Information Centre, ul. św. Jana 2 (C-2); Piwnica Pod Baranami tickets available at the venue before the show. Summer Jazz Festival
  • 14. 26 CULTURE & EVENTS 27CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July 09.06 Sunday Wieliczka Salt Festival Wieliczka, Saltworks Musem, ul. Zamkowa 8, tel. (+48) 12 278 32 66, The Wieliczka Salt Mine is celebrating Salt Holiday with a full day of attrac- tions like craft presentations, children’s workshops, a photo exhibition (Colors of European Salt - 10:00-16:00 in the South Building), historical reenactments, family competi- tions, therapeutic breathing exercises, and a concert by a rock-ska-reggae band called Pancakes. Q Admission free. 26.06 Wednesday - 29.06 Saturday Life Festival Oświęcim 2013 Event takes place in various location. Check description for more info., The music festival was created to demonstrate that there is more to the small city of Oświęcim than just the Auschwitz concentration camp, and to create more positive connections in the minds of visiting tour- ists. The festival’s message is peace, tolerance, and diversity, and its goal is combating racism and antisemitism. This year’s line-up of stars includes Sting, Ray Wilson, Brodka, and Red Hot Chili Pipers. Q Full schedule available at www.lifefestival. pl. Tickets 20-850zł. Available at, Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00) and at the event. 28.06 Friday - 07.07 Sunday 23rd Jewish Culture Festival Eventtakesplaceinvariouslocations.Checkdescription for more info., Jewish culture is big in Kraków. Very big. And for the 23rd time, this festival will give participantstheopportunitytolearn,grow,andexperiencewhat Judaism and Semetic culture is all about, both traditionally and contemporarily.Therewillbeconcerts,filmscreenings,lectures, musicworkshops,andguidedtours.QuiteafewwillbeinEnglish (like the “Jewish Kraków” and “Synagogues and Prayer Houses of Kazimierz” tours), so make sure to check the website.QFull schedule available at Tickets 10-200zł. Festival pass 180-450zł. Workshops 5-50zł. Workshops pass 20-150zł. Available at, Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00), from June 22 at festival box office (ul.Jakuba,nexttoChederCafe,E-6.Open10:00-19:00.From June 29 open 08:00 - 17:00. July 6 open 08:00 - 13:00. July 7 open 11:00 - 13:00.) and at the door. 20.07 Saturday - 31.08 Saturday Ars Cameralis - Kraków 2013. 10 Kraków Chamber Opera Summer Festival E-5, Kraków Chamber Opera, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06, For the 10th time, the Kraków Chamber Opera is organising a month-long music festival.Thisyearyou’llhavetheopportunitytohearPergolesi’s La Serva Pardona and Livietta e Tracollo, the Chatskele, Chatskele! Yiddish music concert, and the religious hymn Stabat Mater. Location is the Kraków Chamber Opera and the start time is 19:00 unless otherwise indicated.QTickets 40-120zł.AvailableatKrakówChamberOperaboxoffice(open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire). Opera 24.06 Monday Giuseppe Verdi - Don Carlos D-2, Słowacki Theatre, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, www.royalart. Based on the Friedrich Schiller play, Don Carlos details the story of Carlos, Prince of Asturias, the eldest son of King Philip II of Spain. At about four hours of music, it is Verdi’s longest play, and also the one with the the most versions; it was cut, modified, and embellished repeatedly in the twenty years following its initial premiere at the Paris Opera. QEvent startsat19:00.Tickets170-250zł.Availableatwww.ticketpro. pl and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 08.06 Saturday - 05.07 Friday 17th Kraków Opera Summer Festival Event takes place in various locations. Check de- scription for more info., tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, Kraków, as the culture capital of Poland, is home to all sorts of cultural endeavours meant to popularise music, film, poetry, and visual arts - and opera certainly is not forgotten among them. This is the seventeenth festival organised by the Kraków Opera, and it will kick off with a premiere of Verdi’s The Troubadour (fitting, since this year is the great com- poser’s 200th birthday). Performances will take place on June 8th, 9th, 11th, and 12th. Music lovers will also have the chance to experience Eugene Onegin with Mariusz Kwiecień in the leading role (the Polish baritone has sung at the Vienna State Opera, the Royal Opera House in London, and the Met, among others) - June 21st and 23rd, and two additional Verdi operas: Traviata (June 14th) with Edyta Piasecka-Durlak and Rigolleto (July 5th) with Katarzyna Oleś-Blacha and Leszek Skrla. Since you can’t have too much Verdi, his anniversary will also be commemorated with a Viva Verdi! concert performed at the Wawel Castle on June 25th. A castle does seem like the perfect setting for enjoying the higher arts, especially during such a lovely time of year - and so the courtyard will also become the stage for the Grand Pas...! ballet show (July 3rd), organised for the 4th time this year and featuring the crème de la crème of Polish soloists, and the Carl Orff scenic cantata Carmina Burana (premiere on June 28th, later performances on June 29th and 30th). The festival will also feature Christoph Willibald Gluck’s opera Orfeo and Euridice choreographed by Giorgio Madia (June 16th and 18th) and a guest performance by the Polish National Ballet, presenting a three-part ballet night entitled Obsessions (July 1st) - composed of Krzysztof Pastor’s ballet Mov- ing Rooms and a suite from his Kurt Weil as well as a version of Israeli choreographer Emanuel Gat’s Rite of Spring. Q Tickets 15-200zł. Available at Kraków Opera box office (open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the performance). Opera Summer Festival Kraków Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera Kameralna)E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06, The beginnings of the Kraków Chamber Opera can be traced back to 1991 although it didn’t find a permanent place it could call home until 2000 during which time they appeared around Poland and the world as guest performers. They have been described by poorly translated critics as “probably the most aesthetic and sophisticated theatre team in Poland which appreciates good tone of music, costume and vividness.” Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 40-120zł. 20.07 Saturday Giovanni Battista Pergolesi - La Serva Padrona La Serva Padrona, known in English as The Servant Turned Mistress, is Peroglesi’s most famous work. This is a humorous tale of an elderly bachelor terrorised by his female servant. When he decides to get married in hopes thathisfuturewifewillrestoreorderinthehouse,thecanny woman tricks him into marrying her, turning from servant into mistress. At only 45 minutes long, this opera buffa was originally performed as an intermezzo between the acts of a longer opera. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 50-100zł. Available at Kraków Chamber Opera box office. 21.07 Sunday & 28.07 Sunday Chatskele, Chatskele! Despite taking place at the Opera, this event is more of a musical evening presenting old Yiddish folk songs in new, original arrangements. The range of the repertoire will be vast, including love songs, pop songs, wedding songs, religious songs, lullabies and more. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 40-80zł. Available at Kraków Chamber Opera box office. 27.07 Saturday Giovanni Battista Pergolesi - Livietta e Tracollo Very fitting for a Polish audience, Livietta e Tracollo is also known as La finta Polacca, or The Fake Polish Woman. This is a baroque comedic opera filled with quirky characters and humorous situations. The plot revolves around the cunning Tracollo, who assumes the character of a poor Polish woman to rob the house of Livietta’s cousin; Livietta then decides to seek revenge. Q Event starts at 19:00. Ticket prices undecided at the moment. Kraków Chamber Opera Photo: Ryszard Kornecki Photo: Victor Korpusenko Photo: Paweł Zechenter, Kraków Chamber Opera Archive Co-financed with the funds of the Polish Minister of Culture and National Heritage G. Verdi THE TROUBADOUR 8, 9, 11, 12.06.2013 6:30 pm World Opera Arias – Viva Verdi! 25.06.2013 8:30 pm Arcaded Courtyard of the Royal Castle on Wawel Hill C. Orff CARMINA BURANA 28, 29, 30.06.2013 9:00 pm Arcaded Courtyard of the Royal Castle on Wawel Hill Grand Pas..! - ballet gala 3.07.2013 8:30 pm Arcaded Courtyard of the Royal Castle on Wawel Hill programme includes: 17 Krakow Opera Summer Festival 1 7 L e t n i F e s t i w a l O p e r y K r a k o w s k i e j 8 . 0 6 . - 5 . 0 7 . 2 0 1 3 th
  • 15. 29HOTELS June - July 28 HOTELS Kraków In Your Pocket No matter your budget, thanks to Kraków’s ascent into elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of accom- modation options in this fabled city. From fancy 5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels - you won’t be hard-pressed for a place to stay. With limited space, we obviously can’t list every sleeper in the city in our print guide, however you can find a comprehensive list of Kraków’s myriad accommodation options on our website. With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these days due to online booking discounts, special offers and other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instruc- tive to list room prices in our guide. Case in point, anyone who uses the Hotel Calculator function on our website - krakow. - will find a better rate than the official prices we once printed; as such, we encourage you to do just that and you can thank us later. Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities, and in our print guide we only list those lodgings that we most recommend to tourists. Cream of the Crop Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 34 00, You’ve chosen well. Few hotels in Central Europe can match the standard set by Copernicus, and it’s a firm favourite of visiting dignitaries, with former guests including George W. Bush. Tastefully uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork, marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes - some dating from the 14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel, gourmet food or the fitness centre and swimming pool housed in the medieval cellars. Q29 rooms (4 singles, 17 doubles, 8 suites). PTJHA6UFLGK DCW hhhhh Grand C-2, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00, Kraków’s first five-star hotel has long been established as the city’s most luxurious and has the legendary guest list to prove it. Rooms and private suites with original murals, coffered ceilings, stained glass windows, ornamental fireplaces and ceremonious service create the imperial ambiance the hotel has built its repu- tation on since its 19th century stint as the Czartoryski Palace, while a business centre and fitness club add mod- ern conveniences. Q64 rooms (55 singles, 45 doubles, 9 apartments). PTJHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh Gródek D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, The honeymoon choice. Brought to you by the same team behind the Pugetów and Maltański, so the quality comes as no surprise. The interior, designed by Swiss studio IKRL, is redolent of an aristocrat’s country retreat, and the individually designed rooms come with vases of flowers, bathrobes and a homely look that reeks of romantic class. Adjacent to a Dominican convent, Gródek offers an air of complete serenity and 5 star standards. Q23 rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles, 2 suites). PTHAR 6ULGKDW hhhhh Holiday Inn Krakow City Center D-4, ul. Wielo- pole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.hik.krakow. pl. Nothing short of top-level standards courtesy of the Holiday Inn. Large rooms with an appealing blue colour palette, staff who fuss over you, private parking and two separate restaurants make this the reliable choice one would expect. For the best price check out the special daily offers on their webpage. Q152 rooms (148 singles, 148 doubles, 4 suites). PTJAR6UFGKW hhhhh Hotel Stary C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08, A feast of opulence awaits inside one of Poland’s top hotels. Gain entry via a huge hardwood door that automatically swings open, 007-style. Occupying a former aristocratic residence many of the original details have been retained alongside chic touches such as a glass lift that zips guests to their rooms. Accommodation comes with sumptuous rooms filled with creature comforts and bathrooms fitted with Italian marble. A subterranean pool open to all can be found in the cellars, while perched on top of the hotel is a recommended albeit seasonal rooftop cafe/bar with views staring onto the main square. The class of Kraków, it’s no surprise that the English national football squad head- quartered here during Euro 2012. Q53 rooms (8 singles, 34 doubles, 4 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTJHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, A relatively new five-star hotel and spa on a quiet corner of the Wisła riverbank, the Niebieski is designed to be environmentally sustainable and energy efficient, with a harmonious holistic interior arrangement that extends from the new Vanilla Spa throughout the entire hotel. The spacious rooms feature wide, comfortable beds, unique modern furnishings and soothing colours, and the third floor apartments offer gorgeous views of the Wisła River and Wawel Castle from their terraces. The philosophy of well-being also applies to the Vanilla Sky on-site restau- rant which serves light fusion cuisine with only certified organic ingredients. There is also a 4-star hotel directly next door owned by the same people if you’d rather keep some of your cash to spend in the spa. Q40 rooms (38 singles, 38 doubles, 2 apartments). PTHAR 6UFGKDwW hhhhh Radisson Blu B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88 88, Located next to the Filharmonia and the Planty, the Radisson possesses a prime location right in the heart of Krakow. Few amenities are spared and you can take advantage of free bike rentals, breakfast, high-speed internet and even certain suites that allow smoking. Weekends can be quite busy in the summertime, so book in advance and take advantage of the small fitness centre and spa, as well as the various guided tours that are sponsored by and depart from the door of the hotel. Q196 rooms (148 singles, 148 doubles, 19 apartments, 29 Business Class Rooms). PTJHAR6UF GKDXwW hhhhh Sheraton Kraków A-5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, The choice of the stars. This is where the Dutch national football team set up camp during Euro 2012, though usually it’s wealthy tourists and corporate travellers who bustle through the glass-covered atrium in this sparkling five star venture near Wawel Castle. Rooms come decorated with chequered scar- let colour schemes and state-of-the-art amenities. Several fine restaurants and bars are also in the building, including a seasonal rooftop terrace bar overlooking the river and castle. Q232 rooms (228 singles, 228 doubles, 2 suites, 1 Wawel Suite , 1 Presidential Apartment). PTHAR6UF GKDCW hhhhh Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 26, Several locations around the historic centre - including the Floriańska and Grodzka Aparthotels - with accom- modation fitting up to six people. Take a look at these prices, they are basically unbeatable. All apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, satellite TV and internet access, and rooms come with a pleasant modern aes- thetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged. Q30 rooms (30 apartments). TJA6UGKW Apartmenthouse GrodzkaC-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 48 35, Top-rate accommodation with facilities that include fridge, LAN and cable TV. The interiors are a tasteful mix of old and new: original brickwork and timber touches combined with chic designer furnishings. Q16 rooms (16 apart- ments). TA6GW B&B La FontaineC-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, These high standard apartments right in the heart of the city come furnished in a chic, modern style decorated with relaxing scarlet and white colours. All have microwave ovens, air- conditioning, hairdryers and high-speed internet connec- tion, however the hike up to the third floor may not suit all guests. Q7 rooms (7 apartments). PTA6GKW Apartments NEW Greg&TomBeerHouseC-2,ul.Floriańska43,tel. (+48) 12 421 28 64, Greg and Tom have basically taken the lead on the local hostel scene.LocatedinalargetownhouseonKraków’srowdiest street, ‘Beer House’ is similar in style to their Zyblikiewicza Street ‘Party Hostel’ with spacious rooms that don’t feel overcrowded with bunks, all the now-standard amenities, and some slick modern decor like the chandeliers. Aside from the very nice community kitchen, however, all of the commonspacehasbeenmovedintotheadjacentpuband beer garden, where events and dinners are organised and non-guests are also welcome. Large, with modern lounge lighting and furnishings, good pizza, satellite TV and more, you’llbehardpressedtofindanyreasontoventurefurther. Partnerhostelsatul.Pawia12/7(D-2)andul.Zyblikiewicza 9 (D-3). Q10 rooms (92 Dorm beds). AGKW The Secret Garden Hostel D-7, ul. Skawińska 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 45, Secret Garden Hostel is part of a new wave of low-cost options, and it’s also one of the best. Certainly the most colourful, quarters come with names that leave no doubt over what colours to expect on opening the door, from Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint Sorbet. Dorms come with comfortable pine bunks, while private rooms are neat, simple efforts, with the addition of wrought iron furnishings and colourful bed spreads. The common room features low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test, plus there’s laundry services, free internet access and a garden for barbecues if the season is right. Secret Garden Hostel also has six fantastic apartments close to the main hostel with three others nearby in Ka- zimierz. Q23 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad, 14 Dorm beds). TA6UGW Hostels & Dorms
  • 16. 30 HOTELS 31HOTELS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Upmarket Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, A posh effort inspired by the age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with state-of- the-art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down here and this is one place which guarantees the memorable stay that this historic city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles, 2 apartments). PTYJHARUFL GKDW hhhh Amber B-2, ul. Garbarska 10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, Set across two floors and a loft the Amber combines pleasing cream and caramel colours to complement the light and modern interiors. Rooms offer satellite TV and internet access, as well as generous duvets in which to sink inside. July will see the opening of the Amber Design - the Amber’s 4-star boutique extension, with Art Deco interiors. Found down a quiet street just minutes from all the action. Q18 rooms (3 singles, 15 doubles, 8 triples). PTHAR6UFGKDW hhh andel’s Hotel Cracow D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 00 00, One of the first things you’ll see when you step off the train is this ultra- modern hotel designed by Jestico & Whiles, so there can be no doubt about location. Full of odd curves, recessed floor and wall lighting, Andel’s hosts a restaurant, bar, fitness studio, sauna and massage services. Rooms feature LCD TVs, CD and DVD players, in-house movies and light, bright colours, while the rooftop terrace of the Andel’s apartment is simply unbeatable. Q159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles, 6 apartments). PTYHAR6UFGKDW hhhh Best Western Kraków Old Town C-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 6, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 66, www.bwkra- The world’s biggest hotel chain is late to the party but has finally made it into Kraków’s Old Town, modernising this historic townhouse to meet the Best Western standard. Whether you like the way they went about it is a matter of taste we suppose, but note that most of the rooms have a bold, avantgarde jazz theme; that means piano key design motifs, wall-length close- ups of drum kits, show posters and multi-coloured (thankfully adjustable) lighting that all conspire to make the space look more like a jazz-themed cocktail lounge than hotel. Room sizes range from cramped to spacious, and some have a much more classic design, so it’s worth selecting exactly where you’ll sleep before you get your card out. On hand are also a bar, restaurant, conference facilities and one of the only hotel parking lots in the Old Town. Q92 rooms (92 singles, 91 doubles, 19 triples). PTHAUGKW hhh Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, After being recently pur- chased by famous restaurateur and TV personality Adam Gessler, the Francuski has undergone minor renovations to the interior that have it looking better than ever. Here gold-braided doormen and porters go about their business as the ground floor Gessler restaurant stays packed around the clock. A grand effort that oozes interwar elegance in a surprisingly quiet location right near the Czartoryski Museum, Francuski squeezes classic furniture into the rather tight quarters. Beds are large and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and trouser press. Best of all, breakfast and afternoon tea come included in the price of your stay. Q42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles, 15 apartments). TJHAR6FGKW hhhh Galaxy K-3, ul. Gęsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, Officially opened in September 2011, this enormous, modern hotel on the banks of the Vistula River offers a variety of rooms, including some specifically designed for families and others for those with disabilities. Oddly, the price of a standard room includes access to the adjoining spa’s indoor swimming pool, fitness club and hot tub free of charge, but internet access (wifi or dataport) is an additional 5 Euros a day. As you’ll note from the stylish map in the centre of the lobby, their location is well-placed for a walking-distance journey across the river to Schindler’s Factory and the neighbouring Museum of Contemporary Art, and generally more ideal for exploring Podgórze and Kazimierz than the Old Town. Q205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles, 50 triples, 5 suites). PTHARUFL GKDXCwW hhhh Hilton Garden Inn Kraków I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, This new- est luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisła has more to offer than just spectacular views of the river and Wawel. The first Hilton Garden Inn to open in Poland, the brand is designed to tame the tension of demanding businesspeople. Rooms come with large workspaces, a separate living area with a pull-out sofa, ergonomic chairs designed to relax your back and fully-adjustable beds. Arguably the most comfortable hotel room you’ve ever stayed in, a 24-hour business centre, fitness centre, conference facilities, bar and 2 restaurants are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147 singles, 147 doubles, 7 apartments). PTHARUFGKW hhhh Hotel Kossak A-5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, Senacki Hotel have added a star for their latest effort near the Wisła riverbank, which opened in 2009. 60 elegant, well- appointed rooms with flatscreen TVs, wifi and adjustable air conditioning - more than two-thirds of which overlook Wawel Castle - are at your disposal, as well as a large conference cen- tre with state of the art audio-visual equipment and a classy 7th floor restaurant ideal for receptions and daydreaming from the terrace. Q60 rooms (55 singles, 55 doubles, 5 apart- ments). PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhh Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. Św. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, Nice choice. Located a short walk from the train station and right on a corner of the ‘Royal Route’ it’s difficult to feel like you’re staying anywhere other than the heart of the city. Modern convenience in an elegant old building, the dapper rooms include everything you’d expect from a modern upmarket hotel and guests can enjoy the use of a fitness room and sauna, as well as conference facilities and a stylish restaurant with strong reputation. Q35 rooms (12 singles, 23 doubles, 1 apart- ment). PTHARFLGKDW hhhh Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, A grand effort inside a fully restored tenement building near the Barbican. Swish, spacious rooms come with rich colours and modern trappings offering a fine balance between past and present: wifi and satellite TV in each and the doubles even come with proper beds. The restaurant is full of stained glass, there’s a beer garden in summer and a full set of business facilities to boot. Q48 rooms (45 singles, 42 doubles, 3 apartments). THA R6UGKDW hhh Novotel Kraków Centrum H-3, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel. (+48) 12 299 29 00, This beautiful, modern hotel at the doorstep of the Old Town offers all the comforts you’d associate with a big brand name, plus views of Wawel Castle and the river from the upper floors. Fully handicap-accessible facilities, spacious rooms, air- conditioning from top-to-bottom, a stylish restaurant and fantastic hotel pool, hot tub and sauna all give you extra reasons to make a booking here. Q198 rooms (192 singles, 192 doubles, 6 apartments). PTHA6UFGK DCwW hhhh Park Inn by Radisson Krakow A-7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.parkinn. com/hotel-krakow. One of Europe’s fastest-growing hotel companies, Rezidor has plonked a modern colossus across the Wisła from Kazimierz, which must be eyeing the inter- loper’s simple, modern curves and colour scheme slightly dubiously. This mid-ranger in Dębniki features a fitness room and wellness centre, impressive business facilities, a bar and grill restaurant, lots of parking and an additional 152 kitted-out rooms in Park Inn’s signature colours: looks a bit like a Twister mat, but conjures fond memories. Q152 rooms (152 singles, 152 doubles). PTHAR6U FLGKDW hhhh Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-3, ul. Floriańska 14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, A beautifully restored historic hotel, and formerly the stamping ground of Tsar Aleksander I and Franz Liszt. Recent renovations have done nothing to disturb the character and rooms come with state-of-the-art facilities, Persian rugs and important looking antiques. Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Kraków, the Latin inscription above Pod Róża’s Renaissance door- way reads ‘May this building stand until an ant drinks the ocean, and a tortoise circles the earth’. So far, so good. Q57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments). PTJHA6UFGKDW hhhh
  • 17. 32 HOTELS 33HOTELS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Mid-range Ascot Hotel E-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 384 06 06, A modern front shields a sharply designed hotel that includes reprints of classic works by Tamara Lempicka in the lobby, and free internet access inside each room. Smartly appointed rooms come with reddish carpets and bouncy beds, while the shining white bathrooms also include hairdryers - not always a given in Poland. Q49 rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads). PTHA6ULGW hhh Campanile D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, Following the Euro2012 madness, the rooms and interiors got a full freshening up. Brightly decorated in the franchise’s flagship colours of cream and green, amenities include satellite TV and bathtubs. Within fast walking distance of the train station, ask for a room on one of the top-floors for views overlooking the surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles, 105 doubles, 43 triples, 1 suite). PTJHA6UGW hh Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, A modern building in a central location well-connected to transport points, Chopin features stylishly-designed interiors, including clean, colour- ful rooms, a western attitude to service, free wifi, fitness centre with sauna, restaurant, bar, conference facilities and more. Recent renovations, as well as regular promotions, make this a very good choice for the money. Q220 rooms (212 singles, 7 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHAR6U FLGKDW hhh Classic D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03 03, The work of a Danish architect, Classic combines clean lines and sleek furnishings with an exterior that slots in neatly with the surrounding Old Town. All rooms come with satellite TV, internet connection and air-conditioning. Q31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 5 triples, 5 apartments). PT JAR6UGW hhh Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, A modern Kazimierz hotel that caters to all, but keeps Jewish guests in mind with frag- ments of the Torah on the doors, Kraków’s only truly kosher restaurant, original paintings of Kazimierz life, and the only mikveh (Jewish ritual bath house) in Poland. Q27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5 triples, 2 suites). THA6UGDW hhh Hotel Kazimierz D-6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, Beautiful stained glass windows inside the restaurant fill this hotel with an upscale ambiance. Upstairs simple, modern rooms meet three-star standards, generally have at least one sloping wall, and come with spongy wallpaper you can’t keep your fingers off. Q38 rooms (38 singles, 28 doubles, 2 triples). PTHAR6GW hhh Hotel Kazimierz II E-5, ul. Starowiślna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, A well restored 19th century façade hides rooms containing cream and scarlet flourishes and, in some, grand extras such as period-style wardrobes. A very good middle-of-the- road gig this, with rooms armed with TV and internet access and a location on the border of the hip Ka- zimierz district. Q23 rooms (23 singles, 21 doubles). THAR6GW hhh UNRIVALLED VALUE FOR MONEY IN THE HEART OF CRACOW The Chopin Hotel Cracow Old Town means deep relaxation, Just in the Chopin Hotel Cracow Old Town: DESTINATION: Cracow city centre BENEFITS: Your home away from home at a reasonable price EXPLORE: keeping with the spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein come with elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and antique details. Some feature restored timber ceilings, and all are treated to modern finishes that include gleaming bathrooms, air conditioning and digital TV. Situated right in the thick of the tourist trail, so expect a host of sights right on your doorstep. Q28 rooms (23 singles, 19 doubles, 5 suites). PTHARFGKDW hhhh Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86, A beautiful historic building near Peter & Paul’s Church right on the ‘royal route’ between the market square and Wawel is the setting for this intimate, high-standard hotel. With four stars on their epaulettes since 2012, and a steady nod from the sometimes fickle folks at Michelin, rooms include lovely architectural details, fine fabrics and easy colour schemes. Some even come with a balcony, but you’ll find fantastic views of the Old Town from almost every room. Q20 rooms (20 singles, 16 doubles, 2 suites). PTHAR6UFLGKW hhhh Wentzl C-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64, A world-class hotel with the best views in the city. The rooms come decked in rich fabrics, hand-woven rugs, beautiful carpentry work and original artwork. The staff will do anything (within the realms of de- cency) to ensure a smooth stay, from booking opera tickets to reserving flights. And don’t for a minute think this is an antiquated type of hotel. While it drips with class you’ll also find state-of-the-art accessories with in-room home cinema, fancy coffee machines and Playstations available. Those who want a more active vacation should take them up on their free bike rentals for guests and take a ride along the Wisła riverbanks. Q18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 8 triples). PiTJA6LGKW hhhh Polski Pod Białym Orłem C-2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, Fabulously located between the Czartoryski Museum and Floriańska Gate, this incredible hotel offers views of the only surviving section of the city’s medieval defensive walls. One of the oldest hotels in town, the ‘White Eagle’ has been operating as an inn since 1815; after becoming state property under communism it was returned to the Czartoryski family (yes, they of the famous art collection and Da Vinci painting next door) and is today again one of Kraków’s most exquisite, yet overlooked accommodation options. Rather than blending the modern with the antique, the White Eagle has stayed in character going 19th century all the way; rooms are full of original frescoes and architectural details while providing all the expected amenities. Q57 rooms (28 singles, 21 doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites). PTJHA6ULGW hhh Qubus Hotel Kraków J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, A cool design includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an angle from the hotel’s façade. Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to high standards and feature 26 inch televisions, broadband internet as well as an ironing board to help with keeping up appear- ances. Unsurprisingly there’s a heavy business slant to this hotel, with nine conference rooms to pick from, while for after- work moments take timeout in the fitness centre - complete with top floor swimming pool with views stretching over central Kraków. Q194 rooms (183 singles, 170 doubles, 10 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UFKDCW hhhh Rubinstein Residence E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, It’s no longer possible to refer to Kazimierz as Kraków’s upcoming district. Kazimi- erz has well and truly arrived, and this place is the proof. In As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also offer a sauna and tanning bed. Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Kraków tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30 e-mail:
  • 18. 34 HOTELS 35HOTELS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Budget IbisBudgetKrakówBronowiceF-2,Al.ArmiiKrajowej 11a, tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, Some distance from the city centre, but a solid bet, and like all Ibis hotels it offers terrific value for your money. The tiny little roomspackapowerfulpunchandhavecomfybeds,flatscreen televisions,enormouswindowsandimpressivebathrooms(with shower, no bath). For what you pay you get a hell of a lot here, includingabuffetbreakfast.Recommended.Q120rooms(120 singles, 120 doubles, 16 triples). PTA6UGW h Ibis Budget Kraków Stare Miasto ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, Amongst the best budget hotels in Europe, with Ibis you get a reliable brand at the right price, and this one is outstandingly located near Kraków’s train station, only minutes from the market square-really,itcouldn’tbeeasier.Earningplusmarksforcost, convenience, and comfort as well, the rooms aren’t overly spa- cious,butincludecosybedswithextrafluffypillowsandduvets, flatscreenTVsandfreewifi.Modernlystyledwithplentyofcolour and personality, while some budget options can be downright crude,IbisBudgetisoutrightcharming,ensuringahappysleep. Q167rooms(167singles,167doubles). PTA6UGW Tournet D-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88, Excellent pension- style accommodation in the heart of the Kazimierz quarter. Rooms come with clean bathrooms, colourful duvets and effective heating. The more expensive rooms have TVs and huge double beds, while all have a kettle and alarm clock. Also find an in-house restaurant - Czarny Kocioł (The Black Cauldron) - downstairs. Q18 rooms (17 singles, 16 doubles, 10 triples). TA6GKW Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, A bit more plush than Ibis’ nearby budget hotel, this trusted brand guarantees a modern, wifi-enabled and - perhaps most importantly - soundproof room fitted with a bed that’s likely more comfort- able than whatever you’ve got at home. Amenities outside the room include a 24-hour bar for guests and a restaurant ready to serve you something to eat no matter what the hour. We don’t know many other hotels that cater to your needs around the clock like that...well, except for Ibis’ other almost 1,000 other hotels around the world. Seems to be a winning formula. Q135 rooms (135 singles, 135 doubles, 16 triples). PTHA6UGKW Karmel E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00, Smack bang in the middle of the action, this classic Kazimierz three-star gem may not offer the most spacious rooms in the city but what it lacks in square metres it more than makes up for with other things. Friendly and genuinely helpful staff oversee everything nicely, plonking chocolates on pillows and providing tea- and coffee-making facilities in all the rooms. There’s free wireless internet too, and a decentish cold buffet breakfast served in the downstairs restaurant. Q11 rooms (4 singles, 6 doubles, 1 suite). TA6GKW hhh Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, A small hotel with a futuristic look and a location that stands in the shadow of Wawel Castle. Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours with internet access and BBC available to veg in front of the television. Find modern bathrooms attached to each room, and a sharply designed restaurant on the ground floor. Q48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHA6UGKDW hhh Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, A beautiful stained-glass window by Stanisław Wyspiański over the staircase is the first thing to catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but functional and the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You might not get all new amenities, but you do get 175-year- old tradition. Q42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads, 2 apartments). PTJHA6GW hhh Royal C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35 00, This utterly charming hotel in an art nouveau turn of the century building gives you an experience you could only have in Kraków, and that’s a state- ment many pricier hotels can’t make. Authentic in every way - from the reception area with a canopied desk, glass phone booth and wonderful secessionist staircase, to the spacious rooms fitted with pre-war furnishings, carpets and wallpapers - as Royal’s facilities have recently been modernised (now garnering 3 stars) the style has stayed exactly as it was a hundred years ago. The unbeatable location directly faces Wawel castle from the confines of Planty Park, and the ground floor bar/cafe and Pod Wawelem restaurant are just more reasons to recommend this romantic old world hotel. It’s where we would stay in Krakow if we didn’t already live here. Q99 rooms (34 singles, 31 doubles, 10 triples, 11 quads, 10 suites, 3 apartments). PTJHA6UGKW hhh Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, Set in a new but classically styl- ish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel for those willing to taxi into town. Some rooms boast unique balconies while all rooms come furnished with an individual touch. Q45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12 triples, 4 quads, 4 suites). PTHAR6UKDW hhh Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00, Already one of the top mid-range offers in the city centre, Wawel was the beneficiary of a recent renovation, making it even more of a steal. Set inside a historic townhouse, some of the 19th century secessionist touches have survived, including the glass roof of the entrance and iron balustrade of the stairwell. A magnificent muralled courtyard will have you wishing it was summer all year round, while the fabulous mosaicked wellness centre will have you not caring to step outside at all. Q38 rooms (9 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment). PTJHARGKDW hhh Wielopole D-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 75, An incredibly good deal found three minutes from the Old Town. Simple, spotless and recommended, this hotel features a matey welcome in reception, and large rooms decked out in soft browns. Q35 rooms (9 singles, 27 doubles, 6 triples). PTAR6ULGKW hhh Wyspiański D-3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 95 66, While the blockish façade doesn’t promise much, the Wyspiański is well worth every one of its three stars. Rooms have been thoroughly modernised and feature rather natty patterned duvets, private bathrooms and televisions. The gleaming coaches regularly parked outside testify to its popularity amongst tour groups. Q231 rooms (150 singles, 109 doubles, 81 triples). OTYHA R6ULGKW hhh 31-066 Kraków phone: +48 12 430 54 45
  • 19. 36 RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket American Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46, Long known as Kazimierz’s link with the western world, Bagelmama brings an NYC deli staple back to the city where it’s speculated that the doughy ring may even have been invented all those years ago; and ironically across from Poland’s oldest synagogue no less. Inside this big, bright café you’re likely to meet Nava, it’s Yankee owner, as he scurries back and forth filling orders, refilling coffees and chatting with customers. A variety of fresh bagels come with the toppings of your choice, with options including sun-dried tomato cream cheese, humus, alfalfa sprouts, fresh salmon and more. Burritos are back on the menu, plus soup, wraps, falafel and the new bagel burger. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (7-21zł). TA6UGSW Grande Grill C-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 21, Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same teambehindKraków’smostfamousrestaurantbalancesmod- ern styling and cuisine with its medieval setting. The seasonal gardenpackedwithplantshangingfromtimberbeamshaslong been regarded as one of the best in town, and the addition of a stylishindoordiningareahasmadethisanexcellentyear-round venue. The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads ad burgers, all expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you would expect from the city’s most established restaurateurs. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (21-112zł). TAGBSW Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 1155, Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on some of the city’s most hallowed ground next to St. Mary’s Basilica. Inside you’ll find an absurdlylargenumberofstaffmembersmillingaroundamongst rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton John’s spectacles to an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over three levels, stop by to enjoy a juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once wore.QOpen10:00-23:30.(33-115zł). PTAUGBW SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace- Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown of Uncle Sam’s favourite bar food including nachos and some other Tex-Mex offerings. As the rock memorabilia and diner décor suggests, this place doesn’t take itself as seriously as most hotel eateries, and it’s one of your best bets for catching the game of your choice, be it NFL or MLB. Loosen the tie and belt at the same time. QOpen 16:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (39-96zł). PTAUGSW Asian HoraiD-7, Pl. Wolnica 4, tel. (+48) 12 430 03 58, www. A veritable veteran of the sushi scene at this point, Horai had a significant hand in turning Plac Wolnica over from a culinary no-man’s-land to a stable of respectable restaurants. With the short move across the square, Horai now inhabits a more modern contemporary interior devoid of illuminated panoramic photo-walls, paper lanterns or origami hi-jinks. Instead it’s a sharp, organic design with lots of blonde woods and an entire wall of stacked stones. An enticing menu with broad appeal covers Japanese and Thai cuisine with an extensive selection of sushi sets, curries and grill offerings. One of the most affordable meals of its kind in town and still one of the best. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50zł). PTAUVGBSW With the development of the market in Krakow, the number of places to eat is now extremely wide, though diversity seems to have been abandoned in favour of fill- ing every Old Town locale with a Polish-Italian restaurant. These, along with ‘European,’ are of course the types of cuisine that Kraków does best, with too many ethnic eateries still sadly compromised in an attempt to gain acceptance from the spice-allergic Polish palate. While Kraków’s culinary rep is improving all the time, the city’s restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French tyre company. In our opinion, however, there are more good restaurants to visit in this town than you could possibly fit in one trip, so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy now makes it impossible for us to list everything. In this section you’ll find reviews of what we feel are the most note-worthy or high-profile establishments in town, in order to help you find a place worthy of your time and money, as well as avoid those with prime locations that are not worth visiting. While our print guide carries a wide selection, there are even more listed on our website ( where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited. All reviews are updated regularly, completely subjec- tive and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Below is a list of recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. SPLURGE: Wierzynek remains the king of Kraków - the city’s oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the Rynek. For something a bit more modern, try Szara right next to St. Mary’s Basilica, or Kazimierz’s Studio Qulinarne, which features a splendid garden. The sophis- ticated wine list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus is also bankable for your best meal while in town. CHEAP: A traditional Polish milk bar (see our box) is as cheap as you’ll eat anywhere with a menu in your life. For something Polish with a bit of atmosphere try Polakowski or Smakołyki. If you’re not a fan of Polish food, Alebriche - Kraków’s Mexican eatery - is excellent, or head to Momo for something healthy and - you’ll never guess - green. LADS: Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king for pauper prices in one of Kraków’s two breweries - CK Browar and Stara Zajezdnia, or try Pod Wawelem where the bathroom features a vomitorium for those who over-consume. FAMILIES: Located near the market square, Mamy Cafe (see Cafes) was made specifically to give parents travelling with young children in tow a bit of a reprieve; head there directly. Near Wawel, Pod Wawelem has a sizable rumpus room for kids and food that they’ll eat. COUPLES: Kraków itself is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you shouldn’t have to search far for ‘the perfect place.’ Make a reservation in ZaKładka, Resto Illuminati, Trufla or Aqua e Vino, or for a particularly memorable evening, take a cab out to enjoy the outstand- ing views at U Ziyada. Dining at a Glance
  • 20. 38 RESTAURANTS 39RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Yellow Dog A-2, ul. Krupnicza 9/1, tel. (+48) 603 11 31 39, Across from arguably the best cafe in town, you’ll find one of Kraków’s most excit- ing eating experiences. Cherry-picking the best dishes of Thai, Vietnamese, Indian and other Asian cuisines (pad thai, pho bo, beef redang to name a few), Yellow Dog’s clever menu gives you a brief background to entice you towards each delicious entree. The side dishes - which include edamame, tom yum and satay chicken - will give you reason enough to fast for days before dropping in, and don’t forget the green tea cheesecake for dessert. Many of the dishes are gluten-free and all are outstanding. Making it all the more stylish is a slick, modern-minimal interior with large street-side windows and a bouncy hip- hop soundtrack. Definitely recommended and worthy of repeat visits. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (22-42zł). PTA6GSW Czech Ceska Chodba A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 30, tel. (+48) 12 421 05 62, The prevailing Polish impression of things Czech - from the language to the country’s pop culture - is that it’s all basically a wonky, absurd or surreal version of its famil- iar Polish equivalent. You can safely add Czech food to that list as well, which - as visitors to this popular cellar restaurant will discover - is not that much of a departure from Polish food, aside from some subtle nuances. Take the two-person Czech sampler for example, featuring exotic dishes like roast pork neck, goulash, dumplings, fried cheese coated in breadcrumbs and baked potatoes (who ever heard of such things?). It’s all a bargain and quite delicious of course, but what’s the best thing about a Czech restaurant? The beer, naturally, and here you have a wide selection of the country’s finest served in manly steins. As far as we know, the true Czech way is to drink your dinner. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (14-30zł). TAUGBSW Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 01. Presumably the Bohumil side of this unique enterprise, Diego i Bohumil combines Czech and Argentinean cuisine in one locale through the friend- ship of the two owners. The menu is split evenly between the two, and the multi-lingual menu helpfully reveals that almost every Czech entree seems to be a slight variation on a familiar Polish dish like goulash, potato pancakes or fried cheese; not that that’s a bad thing. Simple, solid and affordable, DiB is big on friendly, not fancy, making it a great place for after-work gatherings, watching a football match or relaxing on the quiet terrace (in season). Good selection of Argentinean wines and now more Czech beers than ever before. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-65zł). TGBSW French Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sławkowska 26, tel. (+48) 12 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac. pl. Kraków’s finest French restaurant is a magnificent white tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and famed throughout the city for scores of dishes including an exceptional foie gras and the occasional experimental hit. Located in a medieval cellar against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries, if you’re going to commit splurgery while in town, there are few better places to do it than here, and that’s a fact recognized by none other than the Michelin Guide. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40-130zł). TAGBW La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, The courtyard ter- race is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the interior has a pleasing elegance as well when there’s a gale outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly, as he turns out wonderful dishes such as roasted goose breast with mango, peach and honey-vinegar juice. The set tasting menus are a good value at 58-78zł. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-58zł). PTA6X ZaKładka - Food & WineJ-4, ul. Józefińska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, Located in a beautifullyrestoredtenementjustovertheBernadkafootbridgein Podgórze,thisthoroughlyclassyandprofessionalFrench-inspired bistro strikes a perfect balance of modern elegance, exciting upscalecuisineandbelowmarketpricestomakeitoutrageously popular.StudchefRafałTargosz’smenuincludesoctopus,oxtail, snails,mussels,chickenlivermousse,lambtripemeatballs,veal tongueandotherexoticdelicacies(aswellassavourysandwiches and less daring dishes) at absolutely pedestrian prices when compared to the skill of preparation and style of presentation. A perfectdatedestination,fromthemomentyoustepinsideseem- inglyeverythingaboutZakładka-fromthesharpblackandwhite interior to the delicious food and excellent wine list (the owner even has his own vineyard) - becomes an aphrodisiac; make a reservation now. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (26-38zł). PTAUGBSW Zazie BistroE-6, ul. Józefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08 29, While no stranger to fine French dining, this pleasant Kazimierz eatery is the closest Kraków has come to a casual Parisian bistro, complete with classic set meals (includinganappetiser,mainanddessert)foranaffordable39zł, and all the French culinary hallmarks like escargot, fantastic creme brulee and quiche that you can order by size from 1/8th to the whole pie. Set over two levels, the ground floor tries its luckatlookinglikeaParisiansidewalkterracewithawall-length muralofFrance’sfamousphalluslandmark,interiorstreetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out canopy over one table; head tothecellarforamoreromanticatmosphereofcandlelightand wine racks. Overall a great way to enjoy French cuisine without indulging any stereotypes about snobbery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (23-38zł). PTA6GSW Hungarian Balaton C-4, ul. Grodzka 37, tel. (+48) 12 422 04 69, This veteran restaurant and its mature, no-nonsense waitresses have aged well, not chang- ing a whit since establishing itself as one of the city’s first restaurants. Sure, the rustic folk interior is a bit outdated, but the food is still a bargain, with portions so big you’d be wise to share that plate of goulash-smothered potato pancakes - even the soups and stews can represent a meal on their own. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). PTAGBSW Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 04, This small, poorly named, but long-running Hungarian outfit in Kazimierz is the best the city has to offer, serving up an extensive menu of greasy, spicy and filling feast food from PL’s ally to the south. The ‘Deli Tal’ platter for two is a great way to sample the house specialties and also a great value, though this humble restaurant full of pop music is hardly the best choice for a romantic dinner. Still, the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale and after consuming bland Polish food day after day, having a flavourful Hungarian feed will remind you of the joy of eating. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (10-30zł). T6UGSW niedziela 12.00-21.00 poniedziałek-sobota 12.00-22.00 tel. +48 603 113 139 ul. Krupnicza 9/1, 31-123 Kraków The most exciting eating experience in Krakow ASIAN EATERY DYNIA RESTO BAR 20 Krupnicza St., Krakow Phone: +48 12 430 08 38 Open: Mon-Fri 8.00-23.00 Sat-Sun 9.00-23.00 Casual dining at its best... La Fontaine Full Center – Old Town The best of the french cusine Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
  • 21. 40 RESTAURANTS 41RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July style you’ll find in Andromeda will be on your plate, as the kitchen goes the extra mile in terms of aesthetic presenta- tion. Try the chef specialty ‘lamb braised in red wine with fresh garlic and vegetable’ while enjoying views of the Wisła and Kotlarski bridge. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (25-65zł). PTAUEGW Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33, This city-centre bargain near Mały Rynek features a creamy interior livened by bright orange tablecloths and garden dining in the back during the summer. While the atmosphere and interior may invoke the Mediterranean, the 19-25zł lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) isn’t above simple favourites like cheeseburgers, and Sunday’s brunch (12:00-16:00) features American pancakes with bacon, or BBQ ribs. The dinner menu reveals no lack of creative muscle with dishes like ‘Rabbit leg caramelized in honey, braised in red wine and plums’ at affordable prices, and the wine list is longer than your arm. Aperitif is an all round delight. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-85zł). PTA6UXSW Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find one of its most exclusive restaurants. The menu aims high, and gets results with gourmet choices that change with the seasons in order to incorporate fresh local produce as much as possible. As the menu updates itself, the quality remains constant, and here you’ll find one of the best wine lists you’ve laid eyes on. Original frescoes still grace the elegant gothic interior where the aristocratic cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, Following a freshening-up the reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns of Indus’s interior look sharper than ever, but it’s the spacious new summer garden full of colourful draped fabrics that we prefer when the weather’s warm. The near constant line of people filing in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, and while spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the business lunch specials for a fantastic value. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-32zł). PTAGBS International Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus. pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try the classic żurek soup - few places do it better - before moving on to more notable nosh like the venison that will have you wondering how such simple flavours can be so rich. The superior quality of this establishment has been grandfathered into Kraków’s restaurant scene, and offers the rare chance to eat well right off of Mozart’s flatwared face. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 22:00. (29-69zł). PTYAUG Andromeda K-3, ul. Gęsia 22a (Galaxy Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 342 81 42, This large, modern restaurant is not only spacious but also mildly space- themed in keeping with the aesthetic of the Galaxy Hotel it’s located in. Tables are elegantly dressed, but the best bit of Indian Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. (+48) 12 422 37 97, All around not a bad effort, but a bit hit-or-miss: the Dupiaza is excellent, but the same couldn’t be said for the Vindaloo or Chicken Masala Bhuna Gosht on our visits. And ordering your entree ‘extra spicy’ here certainly won’t leave your kids orphaned. If nothing else it’s a decent diversion from all the menorahs and prayer shawls on display in neighbouring restaurants. Find a pleasant interior with patterned tablecloths, pics of Himalayan mountain scenes and photo albums of the staff and guests’ journeys in the homeland. Bollywood dance performances are also organised in the summer garden. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-42zł). PTA6UVEGBSW Ganesh C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 18, tel. (+48) 12 432 50 86, Looking more like a fashion club than an Indian kitchen, this slickly modernised, minimally decorated cellar restaurant leans close to an upper crust aesthetic we associate with the capital, but it’s nicely executed and stops well short of being showy. Though low-slung lounge seating better suited for drinking than dining occupies two of three rooms, lanterns cast a canopy of dim constellations on the walls and there’s an intimate curtained booth for whichever lucky couple gets there first. The large menu ranges from mutton and seafood entrees to ‘sizzlers’ served on a hot plate, and like most Indian establishments, gets pricey once you add rice, bread and a bevvy. The lunch offer (soup and an entree for 25zł, served 12:00 - 16:00) is limited and rather weak, and your enthusiasm for this place will largely depend on the results of your order. We left underwhelmed and wondering if we’re finally suffering from Indian food fatigue. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (24-52zł). PTGSW We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes. Catering service available Ul. Sławkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282,, Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN INDIAN RESTAURANT and political dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-129zł). PTAIEGSW Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48) 12 430 08 38, Ultra-stylish, with a design that incorporates lots of shining leather, bare bricks and circular patterns. But the best bit of all is the large seasonal garden - an absolutely ace spot festooned with plant life and girdled by an ancient red brick wall. The main menu features solid breakfast options, spaghetti, soups, chicken and pork cooked up in a variety of ways, as well as a range of low-cal meals for those who’ve had enough of popping out of their buttons. This being Po- land, you can expect the staff to look rather nice as well. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (14-49zł). TA6UGBSW Europejska C-3, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 429 34 93, Impressive from start to finish, this legendary veteran cafe/restaurant exudes style, class and professionalism. The seces- sionist interior of artistic woodwork and green velvet booths under vaulted ceilings is elaborately enhanced with phonographs, grandfather clocks and other truly exquisite antiques, while English fox hunting imagery lines the walls. Perfect any time of day from their excel- lent English breakfast to international and Polish mains like ‘baked salmon steak in saffron sauce’ followed by to-die-for desserts, you can be assured of flawless service and an elegant atmosphere at this historic market square escape. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. (23- 67zł). PTAGSW
  • 22. 42 RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine and Wine) D-6, ul. Józefa 13, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 10, This local favourite offers a quiet, intimate setting for a romantic dinner just off the bohemian debauchery of Kazimierz’s main square from which you can try to pluck a date for one of the best meals in the area, with the open fireplace the finishing touch. Choose from pork tenderloin in Fourme d’Ambert or truffle sauce, and a host of great seafood dishes delivered fresh on Thursdays. Also on offer - and recommended - is the sirloin steak with Camembert sauce or garlic butter. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 22:00. (25-65zł). TA6GBSW Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under a glass-covered atrium in the Pod Różą hotel. A piano sits on a raised platform, and higher up there’s a balcony with tables overlooking the main floor. The menu features a veri- table list of birds and forest animals, including a rather tasty dead bambi. Prices are high for Krakow, but then so are the standards. QOpen 18:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (69-89zł). PTJAUEGSW Restauracja Unicus C-2, ul. Św. Marka 20 (Unicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 27, This elegant, upscale restaurant offers an enticing range of predominantly Polish dishes in the atmospheric cellars below the Unicus Hotel. To whet your appetite, among the treats populating the excellent value menu are the tried and true ‘Duck breast with traditional Silesian dumplings and two types of coloured cabbage with rose sauce,’ or try the local ‘Ojców-style trout roulade with cheese & buckwheat ravioli, crystallised in garlic sauce.’ Polish cuisine doesn’t get more polished than this, and the fine place settings and historic environs only heighten the experience. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (41-69zł). PTAGW NEW Resto Bar Kipi D-1, ul. Kurniki 6, tel. 12 429 00 07. Perhaps not worth seeking out on a special trip, this modern ‘resto-bar’ might prove your saviour if you’re trapped in Gale- ria Krakowska or have just tipped out of the train and need a meal immediately. Pairing bargain prices with something other than just pierogi, cabbage and potatoes, Kipi offers a nice, concise, but diverse menu of skillfully prepared soups, salads, smoothies, crepes, pasta, an intriguing burger (not what you expect) and enticing entrees like salmon with aru- gula salad and couscous. The daily special is an absolute steal for only 12.90zł and the slick interior is a relief. Across from Galeria Krakowska’s west exit, do yourself a favour: get away from the food court and go here. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (16-30zł). PTASW Resto Illuminati C-3, ul. Gołębia 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 73 73, Though the name comes off as a tad trendy and eager to be elite, Illuminati’s connotations of smart, secretive and ancient recipes are an apt portrayal of this attractive restaurant hedging modern Warsaw style into a medieval Kraków setting. Most enjoy- able and undervalued is the ability to dine in ancient vaulted brick surroundings without being buried underground in a windowless crypt. Check the wall-length blackboard for daily specials before considering ‘roast fillet of lamb, with date, spinach and pine nut stuffing, wrapped in Serrano ham with lamb liver, ratatouille and mint sauce.’ Oh yes. Also worth checking out for breakfast and their daily lunch specials served 12:00 - 17:00. Reassuringly there’s no need for blood rites to be a regular. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30. (46-77zł). PTA6EGBSW Lunch, or ‘obiad’ in local parlance, has always been the primary Polish mealtime in a feeding schedule that generally bookends small bites for breakfast and dinner around this laboriously prepared afternoon feast. A typical ‘polski obiad’ includes soup, meat and salads, followed by something sweet. However, going out to eat the traditionally home-cooked meal has never been a popular Polish practice, unless it’s to a budget cafeteria. As such, you’d usually find all of the city’s finest restau- rants with empty dining rooms until the onset of dusk. Taking their cues from Warsaw, however, the trend of the budget lunch deal has now reached Kraków and many of the city’s best restaurants are now strategising to fill their seats by offering multi-course meals in the afternoon at prices that are a fraction of what you would pay a la carte. As such, it’s a great way to enjoy some of the city’s most elegant establishments without breaking the bank or feel- ing out of place. You’ll notice offers for two-or-three course set meals priced from 15-30zł (4-7 Euro) all around the Old Town,andwe’velistedsomeofthebestoffersbelow.Bear in mind that these are not budget restaurants, but special day-time offers from restaurants that might otherwise be out of the price range of some, and that the prices rarely include something to drink. ‘Smacznego.’ AmaroneC-2,ul.Floriańska14(PodRóżąHotel),tel. (+48)124243381, one of the best restaurants in town, Amarone gives you a great opportunity to dine in style on little more than nickels anddimeseveryweekdayafternoon.Theirexcellent,elegant five-course sampling menu is not only a fantastic value for only50zł,it’salsooneofthemostsatisfyingwaystospenda rainydaythatweknowof,andyouwon’tbeneedingaproper dinnerlatereither.Proceedstraighttothebarofyourchoice. Efficiency! Q Lunch served Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00. Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33, More than just offering a set meal every day, Aperitif has its own lunch menu with an array of options including the daily special, plus a tasty club sandwich, chicken burger, a variety of hot wraps and more. A soft drink is included and the prices are 19-25zł. A great choice if you’re looking for a deal in an upscale restaurant and you aren’t in the mood for Polish food. Q Lunch served Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Hawełka C-3, Rynek Główny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422 06 31, Once patronised by European royalty, every day this veteran Rynek restaurant offers a set lunch menu of traditional Polish fare - soup, entree, dessert for 29zł. Q Lunch served 12:00 - 16:00. Miód i Wino C-2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, Drop by this above- average medieval theme-restaurant in the afternoon for a set three-course meal of soup, entree, dessert and kom- pot to drink for only 25zł. Q Lunch served 12:00 - 16:00. Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 49, www. Drop in during lunch to get the Gessler treatment for next to nothing. Though called the ‘espresso lunch,’ this is hardly a quick meal as din- ers enjoy the soup and entree of the day, plus ‘kompot’ - stewed fruit tea - and a choice of desserts, over what can easily become a languid hour spent feeling like you’re spoiling yourself. For only 20zł it’s a great idea for a fun, shockingly cheap date and highly recommended. Q Lunch served Mon-Sat 12:00 - 16:00. W Lunch
  • 23. 44 RESTAURANTS 45RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, Scandale Royal suc- cessfully skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by being one of the most stylish places to be all day and night. In more shades of violet than we knew possible, it nonethe- less stays well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length windows and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole. On the card you’ll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00 menu (featuring tapas) late night, when everything inside from the cushions to the clientele looks ed- ible. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (18-57zł). PTAUXSW Studio Qulinarne E-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 430 69 14, Housed inside an old bus hangar on the site of the City Engineering Museum, Studio Qulinarne has taken this airy industrial interior of bricks and timbers and turned it into one of Kraków’s most elegant din- ing destinations. Potted plants and illuminated white drapes cleverly hang between fine table settings with refreshingly mismatched 18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the main dining area. The air of exclusivity is diffused by a chil- drens’ corner, wall-length windows opening onto the street in fair weather, and the summer garden full of greenery and futons - one of the most comfortable places for a cocktail in town. The menu ranges from affordable pasta dishes to pricey exotic game, and we can recommend not only the venison, but the entire experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-75zł). TA6UEGBSW Szara C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, Enviably located right on the corner of the market square, Szara’s reputation as one of the best res- taurants in town hasn’t wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara man- ages to avoid the stuffiness of some other venues of this ilk. Choose from dishes like ‘Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce’ in what has come to be known as one of the cornerstones of Kraków’s culinary scene.The separate, more modern and casual bar just next door is a smart breakfast destination (served 8:00-12:00) and cocktail bar by night, plus in summer there’s plenty of outdoor seating. If you’re in Kazimierz, try their second venue at ul. Szeroka 39 (E-6).QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (41-85zł). PTAUGSW Szara KazimierzE-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved ‘Kraków legend’ status just as quickly. What makes it so spe- cial is not the location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and very cheerful. All of Kraków should be like this. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29-62zł). PTAGBSW The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel. (+48) 12 431 03 33, A sensory delight with crimson flourishes, feathery boas and gilt picture frames providing an air of Parisian decadence. A private members area and a pair of black-suited door police add an air of exclusivity while the live jazz concerts performed every evening are worth the visit alone. The high-end, high-quality European dishes are an added bonus, and brought to you by a busy team of beautiful waitresses dressed in evening wear. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (17-79zł). PAEGBS Tradycyja C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, The main ‘tradycja’ (tradition) of this historic market square locale seems to be re-branding itself every year, but that hardly dents the success of this tourist magnet. Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely unused), there’s no need to mess with what is still a marvellous dining space blending old Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, includingabeautifullypaintedtimberceilingandanoutrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to havecollectedthehighlightsofpreviouskitchens,rangingfrom grilledpolentawithnutsandgorgonzolasaucetoporktenderloin with plum-vodka sauce. The results cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices are well within reason. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (17-55zł). TAUEGBSW TruflaC-2,ul.Św.Tomasza2,tel.(+48)124221641.The Krakówdiningscenecontinuestoimproveandthiscosyplaceon Pl.Szczepańskisetsitselfapartbyofferinggreatfoodattheright price.Asimple,predominantlywhitedecorwithwoodenfurniture allows you to relax while interpreting the stylistically pleasing yet difficult to decipher handwritten cursive menu of classic Italian dishes. The open kitchen lets you in on the ‘creative’ cooking process and the year-round garden - with its small Japanese- stylegarden-isoneofthemostgorgeousyou’llfindaround.With limitedtablesinsideandout,plusTrufla’sloyalbandoffollowers, reservations might be wise. QOpen 09:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. (20-40zł). A6GBSW Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing the modern with finely preserved details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business hon- chos who have been regulars for years, this is a Kraków gem. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-95zł). PTA6UGSW U Ziyada ul. Jodłowa 13 (Przegorzały Castle, Zwier- zyniec), tel. (+48) 12 429 71 05, Pretty much the most romantic restaurant in Kraków, if you’ve got a date, blindfold them, put them in a cab and bring them here. Setinsideamagnificentcastleperchedatopajagoflimestone pokingoutofWolskiForest,theenormoussemi-circularterrace offersoutstandingpanoramicviewsoftheWisłaRiverandTatra Mountainsinthedistance,andwiththesepricesyou’rebasically getting them for free. The menu is a mix of international dishes, plusdishesfromtraditionalPolishandKurdishcooking,andthe environment is literally fit for royalty. Worth the trip. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (23-60zł). TAGBSW VanillaSkyH-4,ul.Flisacka3(HotelArtNiebieski&SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, The flagship restaurantofthe5-blingerArtHotelNiebieski,VanillaSkytakesa healthyapproachasoneofthecity’sonlyrestaurantstogetallof theiringredientsfromcertifiedorganicsources,andthechefhas constructed a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced fusion dishes that will make you want to happily commit to the eco-craze. Choose between options like ‘courgette cream soup withchanterelleravioli’or‘ArgentiniansteakservedwithParisba- guetteandProvencalvegetables’.Setinthecentreofaspacious diningroomonthehotel’sthirdfloor,thewell-dressedtablescircle agorgeousYamahaGrandTouchpianoonwhichliveconcertsare givenbyalocalmaestroThursdaytoSaturdayfrom12:00-22:30 andSundayfrom14:00-16:00.QOpen12:00-23:00.(39-69zł). PTAUEGBSW
  • 24. 46 RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket Israeli Hamsa E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, Located in a district whose dining estab- lishments still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past (see the place next door for example), here comes a restaurant free of pre-war nostalgic décor and wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean traditional East European fare. Making a bold impression simply by being bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like the hum- mus, babaganoush, falafel, labnah and muhammarah (our recommended choice), but are also beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware. An entrance from ul. Miodowa 41 now leads you to their beautiful garden where you can enjoy a breakfast buffet from 11:00 - 18:00 (17.80zł) or glass of Israeli wine. Fairly-priced and generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. (24-41zł). TAGBSW Italian Amarone C-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to a discerning audience - all of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering and how it should be prepared. The pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course tasting menu for only 50zł. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-65zł). PT JAUEGSW Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wiślna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 67, Still as exciting as the day it opened. Italian owned, this chic cellar space comes decorated in a minimalist style with cream and black colour combinations, and an atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan. Half restaurant, half lounge bar, the beautifully pre- sented dishes come cooked up by house chef Francesco. Earning rave reviews from all corners, this merits a place on any ‘must visit’ list you may be keeping. Stop in during lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:30) to get an appetiser, main and drink for only 35zł. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (24-78zł). PTAGSW NEW Boscaiola B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 12 426 41 27. If you know this town well, Szewka Street is probably the last place you’d look for a nice meal out. Aside from its location alongside fast food stands and filthy clubs, however, this classy Italian eatery should hardly be a surprise. With pedigree and another winning design job from the team behind the popular Mamma Mia, Boscaiola offers the most stylish interior on the block, full of lovely timber and white ceramic fittings (even mak- ing clever use of chain-link fencing), with large windows that bring a bit of sunshine and street theatre to the front tables; downstairs is a beautiful cellar full of wine bottles and wire-brushed brick and stone. The menu is a by-now familiar array of pizzas and pastas, but there’s no skimping on the quality or quantity of ingredients - only on the total of the bill at the end. Classy budget dining, right in the centre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-46zł). TAUGSW Corner Burger E-6, ul. Dajwór 25, tel. (+48) 535 85 01 09. Kraków’s Battle of the Burgers is officially underway and this small feed station makes a strong argument for itself. With a few elements of Americana - laminated menus, classic chequered tablecloths - the simple interior stops short of achieving any retro-chic appeal it might be trying for, thanks in part to amateurish paintings of Jules Winnfield (Samuel L’s character from Pulp Fiction) declaring ‘Tasty Burger!’ We certainly wouldn’t disagree with that, though: requiring two hands and enough concentration to kill any mealtime conver- sation, our ‘Firehouse’ was delicious, with the perfect amount of toppings and heat. There’s no soda fountain, but they do make some pretty decent shakes, and the hip surf rock soundtrack is priceless. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-50zł). TA6GBSW Love Krove D-6, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 793 79 32 12. Full of strange graffiti, slick graphics and a collection of wind-up robots, this hipster headquarters even includes a downstairs art gallery. As for food, Love Krove takes the burger concept and pushes it beyond your expectations; in fact, well beyond the capacity of your open mouth and maybe your stomach too. These burgers are so stacked with tantalising toppings (includ- ing guacamole, gorgonzola, rucola, chorizo and more) you can hardly fit them in your face, and it’s good sport watching the locals try to knife and fork them (sigh). Served on a fresh roll, most of the burgers on the menu come overflowing with mustard, mayo, salsa or sauce, meaning you may want to build your own to make eating less of a mess. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (15-25zł). TA6GSW MoaburgerD-3, ul. Mikołajska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 44, Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography and info all over the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, they’ve certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate just wouldn’t do) and you might even consider splitting one with a friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day. Piled with the toppings of your choice, in contrast to Love Krove, Moaburgers aren’t a mess to eat. In fact they’re darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover it’s not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries and a drink coming in over 30zł. Still, this is Kraków’s most popular burger joint. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (11-28zł). PTA6GSW Moo Moo Steak & Burger ClubD-3, ul. Świętego Krzyża 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97. On first glance this ‘club’ looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic interior that looks more designed for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The menu reveals an array of options from tartare to trout, but where’s the beef? In the delicious, but not too dense burgers, of which there are 17 variations, including chicken and vegetarian substitutes. Patties are thin and oblong, as are the buns, so that when cut in half you have what would pass in most places as two burgers on your plate. Steaks are offered at two weights so that you don’t get priced out, and the prevailingly realistic prices and random music playlist make this place a lot less pretentious than it first appears, and one we’ll be coming back to. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (20-69zł). PTAUVGBS Burgers
  • 25. 48 RESTAURANTS 49RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. (+48) 12 429 51 41, Tucked behind the Pugetów Palace, this veteran trattoria continues to im- part the cornerstones of Italian cooking - from pizza and calzones to gnocchi and fresh tortiglioni - now extending themselves to new favourites like the rosemary lamb. Combining sophisticated service with a casual atmo- sphere, dine in an interior of colourful photos of Italy, stout wooden tables and a timber ceiling, or enjoy the terrace seating in short-sleeve weather. Reliable and recom- mended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (15-46zł). PTAUGBSW La Campana Trattoria C-4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 32, Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, La Campana Trattoria is a completely different restaurant in summertime when it’s worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; full of sunlight and singing birds, it may be the best dining environment in Kraków. In winter, retreat to the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the same tried and true team behind Miód Malina and Wesele - two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the pastas and risottos are as good as you’d expect. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (16-52zł). TAEGBSW Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 28 68, Find some of Kraków’s best pizza dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven and the choice of numerous other Ital- ian standards prove Mamma Mia is more than a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting and exposed bricks - makes a cool backdrop for casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament to Mamma Mia’s growing reputation, even luring them in for breakfast (served 07:45-12:00, Sat 08:00-12:00, Sun 09:00-12:00) with fresh panzerotti, eggs, muffins and more. QOpen 07:45 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (14-43zł). PTAUGBS Marcello C-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 426 30 08, Magda Gessler has nested down on Kraków’s market square, adding her name to the illustrious Wentzl restaurant and opening this Italian eatery in the basement of the same historic locale. Tastefully decorated by Gessler standards, Marcello features a classic blue and white striped design motif and weathered wooden tables that essentially make you feel like you’re on a Tuscan picnic, albeit in a medieval cellar. Somehow it works and the old photos of Italian screen starlets that adorn the walls add that sexy touch of class that we fondly remember Sophia Loren for. Choose from all the hearty Italian staples, in addition to dishes like ‘grilled steak fillet in balsamic vinegar or rosemary sauce’, and an expansive selec- tion of Italian wines. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-56zł). PTAEGBSW Milano Ristorante C-3, Rynek Główny 42/ul. Św. Jana 1 (The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 12 374 13 00, Housed in perhaps the most magnificent building on the market square, just a stone’s throw from the Cloth Hall, Milano is a classy and smart dining option. A small collection of intimate rooms decorated with all manner of oddities including a rocking horse provide ample opportunity to tuck into a fine range of Italian and international dishes. The clientele is mixed albeit mostly well-heeled, whilst the almost inaudible music comes as an extremely pleasant surprise in what’s becoming an increasingly noisy city. All in all a great choice for pushing the culinary boat out when you’re in town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (33-119zł). PTAUEGBSW RatuszowaC-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 26, In summer, this is one of the most lively locations on the market square, with fantastic live concerts every evening in the covered seating under the Town Hall Tower. In winter, the weather’s lack of hospitality forces only you into the unique historic interiors hung with oil paintings and fitted with beautifully carved wood furnish- ings. Today the restaurant somewhat awkwardly shares the cellars with a theatre, and the fact that this once served as a prison hardly seems like a surprise what with the heavy iron doors and dim atmosphere. Upstairs or down, its a rare experience you don’t get many places any time of year - a fact reflected by the tourist prices on the familiar menu of Italian fare and pierogi. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (16-60zł). PTA6GBSW Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel. (+48) 12 292 55 32, This delicious venture is certainly in the running for Kraków’s best pizza, and most locals have already made up their minds that it is. Do your dining in their knockout back garden during the warmer months, or take to the dusky dining room complete with log fire and wall frescoes. The pizza here can get seriously ex- perimental with choices including roast turkey, almonds and avocado, and the chef also extends his repertoire to cover numerous Italian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-29zł). TAGBSW Da Pietro C-3, Rynek Główny 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 32 79, Da Pietro laughs in the face of every exclusive Italian restaurant to open in the Old Town in the last few years. This veteran outfit (Kraków’s first Italian restaurant) has ruled the Rynek for the last 20 years and continues to outclass the competition with its climate, qual- ity and even quantity. Portions are enormous, with signature dishes like ‘Ossobuco alla Milanese’ coming heaped with veal and vegetables on saffron rice, accompanied by a tray of bread and olive oil. As popular as the day it opened, a network of large candlelit cellars decorated with black and white pictures of Rome’s Colosseum await you inside (open from 12:30), or enjoy the Rynek seating (open from 10:30) in warm weather. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. (23-54zł). PTA6GBSW Fabryka Pizzy (Pizza Factory) E-6, ul. Józefa 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 80 80, Often rated as Kraków’s best pizza, Fabryka has expanded to a commanding four locations throughout the city since starting as a project of students at the Economic University some years ago. The secret isn’t the pleasant wooden and brick interiors or the slightly precious prices; clearly it’s in the ingredients and the list of premium toppings unheard of in other pizza joints, including feta, camembert, roquefort, capers, mussels, crabmeat, beans and Tabasco (!!!) to name a few. The cherry on this sundae, however, is the ar- rival of extra marinara sauce with the pie - a mind-blowing event for anyone now grown accustomed to the unilateral substitution of cheap, translucent ketchup for red sauce. If that’s not amore, well, we don’t know what is... Also in the centre at (C-2) ul. Sławkowska 3 and (J-2) ul. Lubomirskiego 41. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16-30zł). PTAGSW ul. Szewska 10, Kraków tel. +48 12 426 41 27 Classy budget dining, right in the centre. Cracow In Your Pocket, 2013 Pizza, pasta e magia
  • 26. 50 RESTAURANTS 51RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Japanese Kaze I-2, ul. Batorego 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 12. With the glut of Japanese restaurants in Kraków, finally here’s a place that takes a different approach. Specialising in Japa- nese hospitality and home-cooking, sushi is sidelined with merely a mention on Kaze’s large menu that offers various meal sets consisting of delicious miso soup, a main, rice and pickled cabbage. The helpful staff are good for a sug- gestion and as a result our ‘syogayaki’ was spot-on. Located somewhat obscurely in a brick cellar, Kaze makes great use of white curtains for privacy and bean bags for comfort, creating a relaxing atmosphere without any of the artifice so often found in sushi joints. Already proving popular with the locals, we weren’t the only diners to leave praising the staff and vowing to return. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (11-55zł). A6VGSW Koji C-4, ul. Poselska 18/1, tel. (+48) 12 422 52 66, The art of Japanese cuisine is on display in Koji where the skilled chefs work quickly to create an extensive range of soups, sashimi, sushi sets, hot mains and more. The menu helps novices decode the different styles with helpful photos, and goes beyond traditional expectations with ‘fusion sushi’ sets that include ingredients you wouldn’t anticipate like sun-dried tomatoes, olive tapenade and even guacamole. Our inari was delicious and the ‘Mint Carolina’ uramaki was delight- fully refreshing. For dessert there’s green tea flavoured ice cream and creme brulee, as well as tea, sake, Japanese beer and whisky to wash it down. Watch the chefs at work from the bar inside the small modern interior or relax in the seasonal back garden. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (39-100zł). AGBSW Kura ul. Józefińska 4, tel. (+48) 883 35 36 07. This small, trendy Japanese bistro in Podgórze is initially a bit of a challenge, but fortunately the waitresses - in ad- dition to being exceptionally beautiful (stop staring) are exceedingly helpful in explaining the Polish-only menu, which amounts to a variety of ramen soups and dump- lings, plus delicious noodle, tempura, shrimp, salmon and chicken dishes. One of the 55zł multi-course dinner sets is the easy way out and it even comes with authentic beer and dessert. The modern, minimal design features a separate bamboo mat sitting room, balsa wood lamps and an intimate table for the sushi chef at the centre of the front room, but Kura’s strengths and refreshing appeal are in its non-sushi dishes, all of which we’ve tasted have been light and delicious, right down to the perfectly sticky rice. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-45zł). A6UGBSW Musso Sushi A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 23, tel. (+48) 500 11 79 15, The 4-year pro- gression of an Eastern Europe tourist market seems to go something like this: Year one the city receives the moniker ‘The New Prague,’ year two a jillion hostels open, year three a jillion clubs open, and year four - where Kraków currently finds itself - it’s all sushi restaurants. Musso sushi seems to benefit from those who came before by not having to try so hard. The menu is more simple and straight-forward and here the chefs (shaved-head Polish men that they are) are actually brave enough to prepare your food right in front of you on the other side of the long dark wooden bar which can seat about 30 people on its three sides. They do a commendable job and we actually find eating here to be more of a joy than an exercise in pretension. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-100zł). PTAVGSW Kraków ul. Poselska 18/1 tel.12 42 252 66 KOJI SUSHI JAPANESE RESTAURANT WE WELCOME YOU WWW.KOJISUSHI.PL Here we list the local alternatives to the fast food fran- chises you might be familiar with from back home (if it’s the ‘Golden Arches’ you’re looking for you’re on your own). For more fast dining options, get adventurous by visiting a local milk bar or Polish Snacks & Shots bar (see our separate sections on each). Chimera Salad Bar B-3, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12, This beautiful courtyard buffet has been sealed off from the elements and now overflows with ambience year round. Full of pot- ted plants, climbing ivy, natural sunlight and surrealistic murals, Chimera’s Salad Bar may be the most pleasant budget dining environment in town; unfortunately it tends to overshadow the food a bit. Choose a plate for four or six portions, say ‘proszę’ and point at your pick of the salads, quiche, stuffed peppers and more. It’s not the best veggie fare in town, but it’s fast, easy, cheap and a great place to relax. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (13-24zł). TA6GSW COCA E-6, ul. Kupa 3, tel. (+48) 791 20 03 03. Little more than a sidewalk stand one street removed from Plac Nowy - Kraków’s fast food focal point - this small eatery serves fantastic freshly made Sicilian food. The ‘arancino’ - breaded rice balls filled with ragout (recommended) or spinach (7zł) are delicious and duly popular. Or try the canollis, stuffed Sicilian pancakes, salads or home-made pastas topped with different sauces every day. As authentic as it gets, the endear- ing owner speaks Italian only and frequently hands out freebies. With no set menu, what’s on offer changes day to day, but the endearing Italian owner is happy to offer samples and inform your order. Entirely authentic, handily located and open late. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (7-15zł). 6VGS Pod Osłoną Nieba (Beneath the Sheltering Sky) C-4, ul. Grodzka 26, tel. (+48) 12 422 52 27. Commonly known as the best kebab in Kraków and as such you’ll find the prices keep creeping up thanks to the ever-present queue by the outside hatch. Civilised sorts will choose to do their dining inside, in which case there’s two counters to choose from - one serving kebabs, the other dishing out set meals that consist of a strip of meat and a pile of cabbage, pizza or pasta. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. (12-30zł). PTAGBSW U Stasi D-3, ul. Mikołajska 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 50 84. If you’re looking for a truly authentic local dining experience, you simply can’t do better than U Stasi. This tiny, inconspicuous cafeteria tucked in a courtyard (past the pizza place) serves simple home-cooked Pol- ish food at shockingly cheap prices. Being family-owned (80 years and counting) with ‘table service’ and English menus, eliminates it from contention as a true ‘milk bar,’ but those are about the only differences. Impossible for groups, if you can find a place to sit at all, you’ll be doing it in silence at a table of students, pensioners, professors, and homeless people. The plum pierogi are delicious and the experience is simply priceless. Arrive before 14:00 to avoid eating the last thing left on the menu. Q Open 12:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Closed for July. (9-18zł). PGS Quick Eats
  • 27. 52 RESTAURANTS 53RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Pimiento E-6, ul. Józefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 02, Behind the gloss and sheen of Pimiento, this place is about meat and little more; big unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if you’ve had one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head here. Prices appear steep until you remember how much a good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection of South American wines wash it down. A second location in the Old Town at ul. Stolarska 13 (C-3, same hours). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (42-110zł). PTAUGSW Mediterranean Farina C-2, ul. Św. Marka 16 (corner of ul. Św. Jana), tel. (+48) 12 422 16 80, Home- made pastas and great fish dishes have won Farina a de- voted local following and industry accolades. The aromatic, high-quality Polish and Mediterranean cuisine is matched by the setting: three bright, breezy rooms decorated in a comfortable, homey style fitted with unfinished wood. The best time to visit Farina is between Thursday and Sunday when the seafood and oysters, imported from Brittany and Italy, are the most fresh. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-89zł). PTAXSW Portofino E-6, ul. Wąska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 37, Italian food at a decent price served on a quiet, atmospheric side street across from Kazimierz’s High Synagogue. With no pizzas clogging up the menu you can expect good pasta and some wonderful tossed salads, however the highlight of our last visit was the paella: certainly the best in Kraków, if it even has any competition. Sit on the terrace if you can; inside things get a bit more formal. Drop by between 12:00 and 17:00 for a special lunch menu featuring most of the menu’s entrees plus a soup starter for only 20zł. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (20-59zł). TA6UGBSW Warsztat (The Workshop) E-6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 14 51, This little cafe/restaurant pretty much represents everything we love about Kazimierz: a charmingly kooky, casual atmosphere of effortless originality created by candlelight and a clutter of battered musical instruments. The food - risottos, pasta, salads, pizza and more - is generous in portioning and rich in flavour without any notion that your wallet will be, making Warsztat an excellent detour from the day’s agenda. Rec- ommended. Also now at (D-6), ul. Bożego Ciała 1. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (15-43zł). A6GBSW Mexican Alebriche A-1, ul. Karmelicka 56. In a town that should be admonished for its awful Mexican food, Alebriche happily has almost nothing in common with its competition, and here’s the simple difference: it’s actually owned and operated by a local Mexican family (gasp!). Developing a cult following since its opening, Alebriche sends local expats into ecstasy with its simple, authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu includes everything from huevos rancheros to flan, with nacho sets, spicy soups, tamales, proper chicken mole and more in between. In addition to margaritas and micheladas, this is the only place in town where you can get horchata (our fave). A simple, but bright, colourful interior full of photos and folk art confirms that the focus is on food - so good you’ll be coming back until you’ve tried everything on the menu. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (13-30zł). AGSW Jewish Ariel E-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, You’ll hear mixed reports emanating from Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than disappointing we’ve met more than a number of people extolling the virtues of Ariel’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (19-78zł). PTA6EBXSW Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Ka- zimierz) E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit for those tracing the district’s past. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (21-49zł). A6EGBS Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, Late 19th century décor and a jumble of rugs and paintings, the interior of Klezmer Hois follows the Kazimierz code for interior design but it’s the strong menu that keeps the staff busy and the restaurant packed. We recommend the chicken in honey and ginger. Each night stirring music recitals keep the crowds amused and the wine flowing. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (19-59zł). TAUEGBSW Latin American Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 01. Two enterprising friends have consummated the strange marriage of their strikingly different national cuisines in the form of Diego i Bohumil - Kraków’s unique Argentinean-Czech restaurant. The menu is an even split of dishes from the two countries and is available in English, making it all the easier to evaluate ordering Argentinean highlights (like empana- das) other than the steak - still a reliably fantastic value at 45zł. Located on a quiet street midway between the Old Town and Kazimierz, enjoy the range of Argentinean wines in the simple interior, where images of gauchos and tangoing couples adorn the walls alongside characters from Czech folklore. Great food and great prices have made DiB a favourite. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-65zł). TIGBSW Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22 77, Manzana’s ‘New Latin’ concept cuisine consists of meat and fish dishes along- side reinvented classics (the massive burritos can be prepared a number of ways) served in a chic interior of dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and low-level Latin music. Though the prices aim a bit high, the ser- vice and atmosphere are comfortably relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place you’d want to frequent often. The daily specials encourage you to do just that and the weekend brunch (served all day) is legendary. We’re quite fond of this place. Q Open 07:30 - 10:00, 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. (20-50zł). PTA6GBSW
  • 28. 54 RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket ant cooking, and a popular choice for tourist groups. Once known for their blue country cottage interiors, a recent re-branding has preserved the atmosphere of 19th century village life created by the collection of rustic furnishings, farming machinery, folk music and motifs - not to mention staff members kitted out as saucy country wenches - while modernising it to look less like an old-fashioned museum. The fresh red and beige colour palette brings a brightness and levity that was previously lacking, and somehow makes the lengthy menu of stodgy peasant dishes more palatable, despite portions being as gut-busting as ever. Also at ul. Św. Agnieszki 1 (C-6, open 12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (12-65zł). PTAUGS C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429 25 05, For over fifteen years and counting this huge and rowdy Old Town cellar has been Kraków’s primary microbrewery, pouring fresh, unfiltered and unpasteurized Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales straight from the tank into your mug. As if that weren’t enough to have you plotting your route, there’s also a restaurant and disco in this underground complex, making it that much harder to find the daylight again once you’ve descended those stairs. Lads will love the beer hall atmo- sphere and sports on the tube, plus the added attraction of getting the home-brew served in a tall glass pipe with its own private tap on your table. To really go whole hog, reserve the classic Hunter’s Room - a beautiful banquet space with fine wood panelling and plenty of antlers - and feast in style on traditional Polish and Austrian dishes done right. Best of all, the prices don’t seem to have changed since the day they opened, making the food a great bargain. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (18-65zł). PTA6EGBSW Czerwone Korale C-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, This traditional Polish restaurant may have the disadvantage of being discreet from the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant and welcoming in the Old Town. Unlike others of its ilk, here the simple, but charming folk decor favours colour over clutter: cheerful chandeliers wrapped in wicker wreaths wound with bright ribbons and beads hang from arched red ceilings, giving the two dining rooms (don’t miss the beautiful banquet room in the back) a warm glow, while photos of dancing highlanders and peasant maidens frolick- ing in folk costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative innovations and a flair for presentation that we were hardly expecting. There’s an entire page of vegetarian dishes (!) and the overall quality of the food makes Czerwone Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (15-39zł). PTUGS Hawełka C-3, Rynek Główny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422 06 31, Kraków’s moved on, but Hawełka hasn’t. If you want to experience the Kraków of olde, this en- during, achingly formal holdover is the place to do it, just like Queen Elisabeth II, the King of Greece and numerous Austro- Hungarian Archdukes before them did at one time. The menu is an encyclopaedic choice of traditional Polish game and fish dishes served without interruption or reinvention since 1876, and the dining room is a very green (popular colour in those days) trip back to the turn of the 20th century with a reproduction of Jan Matejko’s massive ‘Prussian Homage’ looming over the proceedings - perhaps the only inauthentic thing about having a meal in this legendary local institution. QOpen 10:00 - 22:45. (20-69zł). PTA6BXSW The Mexican C-2, ul. Floriańska 34, tel. (+48) 500 10 31 00, Further proof of Poland’s naivete towards Mexican cuisine, this franchise finally arrives in Kraków after tying its mule to posts in five other Polish cities prior (that’s the sound of us smacking our foreheads). Gimmicks include busty Polish senioritas with exposed bel- lies slinging tequila shots from the bottle holstered to their belts, light fixtures fashioned from Desperados bottles, and ‘Wanted’ posters featuring sombreroed patrons tacked ev- erywhere. As for food and drink, all dishes come with pickled cabbage and the margaritas are rimmed with sugar, so forget authenticity. Still, this colourful, over-priced cantina could be great fun for a group piss-up, and though the placebo doesn’t work on us, all the snogging couples would suggest it’s a proven date destination. Ay carumba. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (20-50zł). TA6EBXS Polish Bar Smak B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12 431 21 49. Brilliant. Not at the top of anyone’s list for a night of fine dining, that is not the point of Bar Smak. Instead this is a local place for local people who cram around the wooden tables to eat huge portions of well-loved standards, from cheap pierogi to excellent bigos to great big golonka. Order from the board or ask for an English menu. Set meals of soup, a side, potatoes and a main go for 16zł, meaning you can eat like a Polish king for peanuts. Open late and we love it. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (10-16zł). T6UGS Chłopskie Jadło C-3, ul. Św. Jana 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 51 57, One of the most well- known and long-running Polish food franchises, Chłopskie Jadło is a reliable romp through the glories of Polish peas- Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds, obwarzankiaresoldfromrollingcartsoneveryotherstreet corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact the obwarzanek is one of only two Polish foods currently protected by the EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known as the Krakowian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for ‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel, inadditiontobeingitsinternationallypopularcounterpart’s predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by Kraków Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild. First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile dates back to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight on Kraków’s market square for over 600 years. Though increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still see countless people on the go munching these pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying anobwarzanekleavesalotuptochance.Krakowianbakers produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a hot one is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki also feed Kraków’s entire pigeon population when in the evenings the city’s 170-180 obwarzanki carts essentially become bird-food vendors. The Obwarzanek
  • 29. 56 RESTAURANTS 57RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July a unique local specialty that for some reason doesn’t seem to be served many other places. A large summer garden and experienced staff also make this a good place for groups and dinner events.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-48zł). PTAEGBSW Marmolada C-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49 46, While Kraków’s super-saturated restaurant market has seen plenty of tankings of late, the team behind the ever-popular and duly praised Miód Malina continues to expand. Sister eatery Mar- molada offers delicious local Małopolska delicacies, perfectly prepared and fired for a few minutes in a large stone oven before arriving at your table. Narrow, yet long and cavernous, Marmolada utilises floral folk patterns, canopied ceilings, big timber tables and poinsettas to create their unique combination of a comfortable local atmosphere and low prices with great food and service. Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down from the city’s most exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek), and you can leave with a bill that less than half the size. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54zł). PTAUEGSW Milkbar Tomasza D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 06. A modernisation of the classic Polish cafete- ria, the mantra of Polish/Irish-owned Milk Bar might be that cheap, slow-cooked Polish food need not be unappealing, lack flavour, or served in cramped, unclean surroundings. Hardly a reinvention of local cuisine, Milk Bar pays proper respect to its culinary roots (take our milky pickle soup with rice for example - only a Polish mind could conceive such a thing), swapping slippered grannies for a staff of cute students and institutional interiors for a bit of colour and wall-length windows. The daily special (18zł) includes soup and entree and gives you three options of each to choose from, or select from the set chalkboard menu of pierogi, potato pancakes, crepes, bagels and breakfast options. Comfort, cleanliness and taste are worth the extra 5zł in our opinion. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-18zł). PTAUGSW Miód i Wino (Honey and Wine) C-2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, Cham- pion dishes of traditional Polish fare in a setting piled as high as the food with muskets, antlers and suits of armour. All extras (vegetables, bread) cost extra, and you’ll need to explain clearly how you expect your meat to be cooked; but the flair of the service, quality of the food and fondness of the folk musicians playing full force nearby create a fun atmosphere that’s completely worth being in. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł). PTAUEBXSW Miód Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka 40, tel.(+48)124300411, excellentmealshaveseenMiódMalinaestablishthemselvesas one of the top restaurants in town, so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised window-side seating. This cheerful looking restaurant comes with raspber- ries painted onto the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral touches aplenty here, lending a storybook,candycottageatmosphere,whilethemenumixesup thebestofPolishandItaliancooking.Thepricesremainpegged generouslylowmakingavisitherenotjustrecommended(asthe Michelin Guide 2012 did) but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60zł). PTAUEGBSW Morskie Oko B-2, Pl. Szczepański 8, tel. (+48) 12 431 24 23, Morskie Oko aims to capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane so there’s plenty of primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits Traditional Polish food in modern form Polish Restaurant Open: Sun-Thu 12.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00 - 24.00 bursting out of tradtional costume and regular live bands making a racket. The food is caveman in style, delicious hunks of grilled animals. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-45zł). PTAEGBSW Pierogi Mr. Vincent D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 12, tel. (+48) 506 80 63 04. A great place to introduce yourself to this national staple, Vincent’s versions rises above the ordinary. Though it may be impossible to ‘reinvent’ a food as versatile as the pierogi, this veteran establishment has tried with apple and liver, minced lamb, chicken and spinach, and broccoli and feta among the 30 different options. Get a mixed-batch to share with a friend, and top it off with your choice of a variety of sauces and extras. Popular, cheap and cheerful (thanks to a sunflowered, starry-nighted Van Gogh interior), takeaway may be your best option at peak feed times. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. (9-18zł). AGS Pod Aniołami (Under the Angel) C-4, ul. Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, For a tasteofPolishmedievalcuisine,experiencethischarmingspot ‘under the angels’. As you enter you find yourself immersed in a cavernous,monastic-like,candle-lithaventhathasaverycosy andengagingatmosphereandanunexpectedwarmthinsome places two full levels under the old Royal Route. They have two transparent and open oven-grills along with displays for the main entree ingredients so you can watch the creation of your meal from beginning to end. Among the winding corridors reputedly built in the 13th Century you will find a year-round open garden and fountain, casks and medieval style wooden furnishings, and a few hidden bars so you needn’t wait for your drinks to descend to your depths. The menu includes massive meals for up to 35 people, and has nearly everything imagin- able that is smoked, grilled, or traditionally Polish. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (27-70zł). PTA6GBSW Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69, This classy veteran restaurant presents old school Eastern Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century setting. Busty waitresses in traditional costume bustle about serving large platters of steak with quail eggs, pheasant and wild boar (to name a few), as live folk music is performed each evening. Despite the now-familiar hearken- ing back to the old days, this is not your classic tourist trap. In fact, we heartily recommend it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55zł). PTA6UVEGBSW Kawaleria Szarża Smaku (Cavalry) B-3, ul. Gołębia 4, tel. (+48) 12 430 24 32, Three spacious rooms decorated with an equine motif - paint- ings of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and hunting trophies - include a large fireplace and lush seasonal garden. The menu changes seasonally, but represents a strong review of upmarket Polish game dishes with some vegetarian dishes included as well. For kids there’s not only a special menu, but an entire fun corner with a toy chest and rocking horse. Kawaleria’s excellent food, service and value have been recognised by many, most recently a tyre company called ‘Michelin.’ QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (23-58zł). PTAUGBSW Kogel Mogel C-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426 49 68, Kogel Mogel as it was, it seems, was too refined for its own good. Ditching the concept of grand banquet hall for the communist elite, Kogel Mogel now envelopes you in its elegance without any ‘comrade’ kitsch. The menu has gone full Galician and offers out-of-towners the chance to take home a much better impression of the local cuisine than you might acquire elsewhere. The goose dishes are particularly excellent, the fried salmon is outstand- ing and the ‘maczanka krakowska’ is an opportunity to try
  • 30. 58 RESTAURANTS 59RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Cracovian Cuisine, P-Z Pierogi Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawber- ries or plums, though you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly limitless. The standards are served almost everywhere in the city; head to Pierogi Mr. Vincent or Zapiecek for a more expansive selection. Placki These greasy, fried potato pancakes (‘placki ziemniac- zane’) are very similar to Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you) and ideal for meatless winter days. Served with sauce, goulash or simply sour cream on top, placki are a great hangover cure and you’ll find them on menus everywhere. U Babci Maliny’s ‘Placki po Węgiersku’ is generally accepted as one of the most delicious and highly-caloric meals you’ll ever have anywhere in your life. Soup Poland has three signature soups: barszcz, żurek and flaki. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków. It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg chucked in. Our vote goes to Bar Smak but you also can’t beat We- sele’s batch eaten out of a breadbowl. If you’re of strong constitution and feeling truly adventurous, spring for flaki – beef tripe soup enriched with veggies, herbs and spices. A hearty standby in most kitchens, we personally save the pleasure for compromising situations involving mother-in- laws, but you can take your chances at Chłopskie Jadło. Smalec Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage or a taste of żurek generally draw the line here. An animal fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, Smalec is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this prior to your meal; we’ve had the best at Pod Baranem, or buy your own at Krakowskie Kredens. Zapiekanka The ultimate Polish drunk food. Order one at any train station in PL and you’ll get half a stale baguette covered with mush- rooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least. However the vendors of Kazimierz’s Plac Nowy (D-6) have made a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’ With endless add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard procedure at this point. Because of their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the roundhouse,butthewaitisworthit.At8-10złit’sagreatvalue andwillsustainyouthroughanightofheavydrinking.Toleave town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Kraków. Cracovian Cuisine, A-O Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost uniformly off-white in colour. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below. Though most can be found at almost any Polish restaurant or milk bar in town, we’ve given you our picks of the litter, making your stomach a happy camper and keeping its contents intact. Smacznego! Bigos Traditionally a winter dish, Bigos is a hearty stew made in large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingre- dients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically Bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘confusion’ or ‘trouble’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate, sometimes underground, for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Pol- ish restaurant or prospective wife can be fairly measured on the strength of their Bigos; we’ve had the best at Miód Malina, Bar Smak and Kamil’s mom’s house. Gołąbki Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki before a battle outside Malbork against the Teu- tonic Order, and their unlikely subsequent victory has been attributed to the hearty meal ever since. Bolster your own courage at Pod Baranem or Kogel Mogel. Golonka Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh, boiled, braised, or generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true Polish delicacy, you’d be best served to buy it at a roadside stand as you’re driving through the countryside, but there are a few places in Kraków that have proven peerless when it comes to pork hocks: Kawaleria – where its served with pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem where the servings slip right off the bone and are so impossibly large we’d prefer not to know where they came from. Kiełbasa Sausages, and in Poland you’ll find several varieties made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey, horse, lamb and even bison. There are a few varieties to watch for including Krakowska, a Kraków specialty seasoned with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry sausage flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a blood sausage filled with groats and pig’s blood. These you’ll find in any ‘delikatesy’ or butcher shop, but head to Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski (see Late Night Eats) to get a taste of Kraków’s most famous sausage. Two old-timers have been grilling and serving sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this hallowed sidewalk stand. Naleśniki The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
  • 31. 60 RESTAURANTS 61RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July NEW Smakołyki B-3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12 430 30 99. One of our favourites for a while now, and it’s no fair keeping secrets, so we’ve finally got our whistle out. Budget food isn’t hard to come by in this town, but when it does, it’s typically service and ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here though. This hip, trendy bistro has it all, from great coffee and tasty Polish microbrews to simple, delicious Polish cuisine, all served inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro interior that even features a mezzanine, piano and nifty wall art made from pinned string. You won’t find a better value on food in this town, especially the daily specials inspired by world cuisine. If you know how hard it can be to find a seat with a wall plug and wifi that actually works in Kraków, you’ll also find that Smakołyki is a great place to work. Heartily recommended on all fronts. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-17zł). TA6EGSW Stara Zajezdnia (The Old Depot) E-6, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.sta- After spending decades completely abandoned, this old tram depot (across from the Transporta- tion Museum) has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia sadly suffers for its size, however, and the impressive main hall - which features the city’s longest bar - has already been deemed too impractical to open for group reservations of less than 100. The smaller out-building that presently serves as the main dining hall can still feel pretty lonely without a large party on hand, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat screens are on hand for football and the porter, wheat, lager and honey ales do well to wash down the ribs, pork knuckle and other tasty traditional faretailoredtocomplementtheon-sitebrewedbeer.Oncethat Polakowski D-6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12 421 07 76, The defini- tive local dining experience. Join the queue and order big plates of piping hot food dished up from metal containers, before bussing your dishes to the wash-up window. Choose from the likes of cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or beet salad sides, soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far better than it looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave. Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the extra yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and English language menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 10 (C-4), ul. Mogilska 35 (K-2) and in M1 (Al. Pokoju 67). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł). PTA6GS Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 49, www. Taking the helm of the Fran- cuski Hotel, Polish star restaurateur Adam Gessler has created one of the most impressive and popular places in town. Dingy, unfinished walls contrast with the olde-world over-the-top service of white suit-jacketed gentlemen who serve everything at your table, even preparing some of it in front of you from the laborious mincing of the steak tartare to the firing of the sugar glaze on the creme brulee, all while a pianist tickles ivories in the corner. The set three-course ‘Espresso Lunch’ (served Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00) is a fantastic opportunity to experience high society inter-war elegance for a shocking 20zł. As such, this place is packed and we are totally on board. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 24:00. (40- 60zł). PTAUEGSW “Heaven! Fantastic food, excellent wine, great service. In one word: PERFECT!” Maria - London Kraków ul. Grodzka 5 tel. +48 12 396 49 46 BEST PLACE TO EAT Pod Baranem C-5, ul. św. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12 429 40 22, An admirable estab- lishment near Wawel Castle, the interior of exposed brick and wooden ceiling beams, a fireplace and skilful mural of Kraków in one of the rooms, offset by framed photos of family and guests on the walls, creates a truly comfortable and classy dining environment. Serving Polish standards including cream of wild mushroom soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features more meat than you’ll find at a livestock market, with deer and wild boar getting into the menagerie as well. Our shred- ded pork wrapped in cabbage leaves with mushroom sauce left us more than satisfied, but the true standout was the complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread - maybe the best we’ve tasted in Kraków. For those stricken with food allergies, this is one of the only places in town to offer gluten- free meals, of which their menu dedicates a page. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (19-67zł). PTAIXS Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, The place to visit if you’re looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Huge portions of acceptable food helped by enormous amounts of veg, cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re served on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are en- couraged and half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from over-consumption to hock their recently imbibed pork hocks. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-60zł). PTAUEGBSW pops your buttons, don’t overlook the separate menu of single cask, single malt whiskies - a first for Kraków - if you want to beat your friends in the race to be first under the table. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-49zł). PTAUGBW StarkaD-6,ul.Józefa14,tel.(+48)124306538,www. If you want to try great Polish food without eating in a medieval cellar or barnyard interior, then seek out Starka,whoseclassic,darkinteriorwithitstimberceilingandbar crammedfullofcolouredbottlesmoreresemblesa19thcentury pub,thanksinparttothecaricaturesbyHeinrichZillethatcover the walls. Famed for its in-house flavoured vodka concoctions, you can’t leave without trying a few, but be wary that you don’t spoil your appetite. The menu of perfectly prepared Polish food ranges from boneless pork knuckle to rabbit loin wrapped in bacon and is a great value for your money. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (26-64zł). PTAGSW U Babci Maliny C-2, ul. Sławkowska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 01, Entering this hidden cellar through the courtyard of a building on the corner of Sławkowska and Św. Marka streets, you’ll descend the stairs and greet a crossword-puzzled babcia who decides if you can enter this kitschy country cottage of wooden benches slung with sheep hides. You’ll be grateful to have garnered her approval once you’ve tried the soups served in breadbowls and pierogi served on breadplates (really), to make no mention of the city-famous ‘placki po węgiersku’ - an enormous plate of potato pancakes smothered in goulash, cheese and sour cream. With budget prices for outland- ishly large and delicious servings, this should be a go-to for anyone being introduced to Polish food...or who hasn’t eaten in three days. Also with a location at ul. Szpitalna 38 (D-2). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12-25zł). PTAIVEGS
  • 32. 62 RESTAURANTS 63RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July the coat-rack. Thoroughly authentic and affordable. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (13-55zł). PTA6EGBSW Spanish Casa Juan B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 70. ‘Casa Juan’ sounds a bit more casual than the reality of this rather refined (and slightly stuffy) cellar opposite Teatr Bagatella, which overcomes competition from the garden din- ingupstairsandRomancolumnsleftoverfrompastrestaurant incarnations with festive Spanish colours and sun-soaked photos. The food is just as infused with flavour as the images on the wall, and Casa Juan cleverly side-steps the conceit of trendy tapas bars by offering honest Spanish home-cooking - the kind that keeps you at the table a long time and lovingly lulls you into siesta. Choose your wine from the line of bottles atopthedarkwainscotingnexttoyourtableandlettheevening unwind. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-59zł). PTAGS Thai Samui B-3, ul. Wiślna 10, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 65, After a successful launch several years ago, and subsequent move into the Old Town, reports from Samui - Kraków’s only exclusively Thai restaurant at the mo- ment - have been mixed at best, leading to an appearance on Magda Gessler’s ‘Kuchenne Rewolucje’ (Kitchen Revolutions) TV show in April 2012. Despite the makeover - including an exceedinglycolourfulintrioremboldenedwithgoldenelephants and sleeping buddhas - Ms. Magda’s magic seems to have been short-lived, and Samui continues to garner ‘meh’ reviews fromcustomersunimpressedwiththeslowserviceandslightly over-priced, mediocre food. Don’t be over-bold on the spice quotienthere, however - ‘medium’willactuallytoo hot for some palettes.QOpen12:00-23:00.(24-52zł). PTAGSW Wentzl Magda Gessler C-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 429 52 99, In the upstairs of a 15th century building on Kraków’s market square (niceview,huh?),theWentzlrestaurantitselfcantraceitshistory back to the 18th century, and added a new chapter when PL’s culinary first lady, Magda Gessler, re-branded the restaurant in March 2012. Swapping dusty oil paintings for fresh flowers, flowingcurtainsandpastelcolours,thenew‘Gesslered’interior is bright, full of energy and looks a bit like an Easter egg year round. We prefer her culinary sense: with a knack for elevating traditional cuisine to new artistic heights, the menu features creative dishes like ‘crispy foie gras with strawberry salad’ and ‘duck stuffed with nuts on gingerbread’. The flavours are wonderfulandwe’lleatatPaniGessler’stableanytime.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-118zł). PTAUGW Wesele C-3, Rynek Główny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60, This warm, timber-framed, two- level eatery is one of the most popular on the market square thankstoareputationbuiltonMichelinrecommendations,friendly serviceandacomfortableatmosphere.IfyourPolishisaboutas good as your Chinese, the name ‘wesele’ refers to the lengthy celebration of family, food, love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish wedding service, and if this place weren’t full of tourists all the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make youthinkyou’dactuallycrashedaPolishweddingparty.Themenu is classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant, and the goose breast is fabulous. We recommend it also. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-68zł). PTAUEGBSW Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was at- tended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest after another, with former diners including De Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influence the way the globe spins, as well as starlets like Sophie Marceau and Kate Moss. A set of wooden stairs lead to a series of impos- ing rooms decked out with tapestries and plantlife while a seriously high-end menu includes ‘pike perch flamed in mead’. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (30-115zł). PTAEBXSW NEW Zdybanka C-3, ul. Szczepańska 3/1, tel. (+48) 12 426 40 72, This narrow, little restau- rant may not look like much in a city saturated with Polish restaurants, but the food tells a different story. Using local products and updated seasonally, Zdybanka offers a large, affordable menu of Polish and European fare with standouts being the black pudding, sausages and grilled meats. The lunch specials are a great bargain at only 12-16zł (with a rare carafe of water included) and generally represent the best of what’s on offer each day; take advantage. The simple white interior with traces of copper and timber offers a touch of class, and the seasonal outdoor tables practically put you on the market square. Not a bad option at all. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (11-49zł). PA6UEGBSW Russian Wiśniowy Sad C-4, ul. Grodzka 33, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 11, Wiśniowy Sad offers Russian, Ukrainian and Caucasus specialities like lamb dumplings, caviar blini, pelmieni dried squid beer snacks and a borscht that would rival that of the village’s best babushka. Part-time chef, classical guitarist and all around swell guy Yury Beychuk takes turns with another musician serenading diners on Saturday evenings at 20:00. The interior is full of festive drapes and tablecloths, ornate murals, candles and crummy folk paintings, and you can expect to find some fur on Plac Szczepański 8 31-011 Kraków tel. +48 12 43 12 423 Morskie Oko Restaurantlocated at Szczepański Square 8 in a beautifulArt Noveau house offers Polish „Highland“atmosphere unique to Kraków. The delicious Polish regional cuisine, live folkPolish music and unique wooden highlandinterior will make you feel like in the heartof the Tatra Mountains. Augusta E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki, tel. (+48) 728 52 94 46, This imposingly largeandmodernriverbargemakestheneighbouringBarka docked next door seem modest and outmoded. In terms of riverboat dining, Augusta is as contemporary as it gets, with a stylish and surprisingly spacious post-industrial design of polishedaluminiumandglasslettinginplentyofnaturallight. Augusta’s two enviable sun decks can seat up to 60 people combined, every interior table comes with a great view, and somehow it’s all handicap accessible, even boasting an elevator; honestly, the effect isn’t unlike an upscale hotel restaurantonthewater.Assuchtheserviceistop-notchand you’d be silly to skip over the Mediterranean-inspired menu, featuringtunatartareandbeefcheeksinwinesauce.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (20-60zł). PTA6UGBSW Barka Food, Life, Music E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki (near the terminus of ul. Gazowa), tel. (+48) 668 82 04 54, If you’re thinking of boarding one of the several dining vessels along the Wisła River, makeitBarka.ThisDutchcargobargedatesbackto1889 and was once significant enough to the history of water transport to be featured on a Dutch postage stamp. Since then it has been modernised by Polish craftsmen with thrilling results. Descend into the spacious hold refitted with wooden floors, a sculpted bar, fireplace and skylights that let in plenty of natural light. The cocktail and wine lists are duly impressive, and the menu of creative designer food is thoroughly enjoyable. Utterly elegant and skillfully stylish, climb aboard and become an instant socialite. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (24-39zł). PTAGBSW Riverboat Dining Jarema Restaurant Kraków, Plac Matejki 5 phone: +48 12 429 36 69 The only Polish restaurant in Kraków recommended in the Michelin Guide 2010. WE INVITE YOU TO OUR SUMMER GARDEN
  • 33. 64 RESTAURANTS 65RESTAURANTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July desserts that all follow the philosophy of the five transforma- tions. Enjoy organic fair trade coffee and tea, local organic beers and fresh squeezed juices in a modest interior with paper bag lampshades and Manu Chau explaining his bongo upbringing on the speakers. Find out what else the local activists have on the agenda by dropping in Wednesdays for film screenings in English and weekends for live music. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (9-23zł). T6IVEGSW Vega A-2, ul. Krupnicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 430 08 46, A great alternative to Polish meat and starch menus; though the prices have gone up (get used to it, people), the food remains some of the best vegetarian fare in the city and therefore a bargain. All around excellent whether you’re a rabbit or not, with the biggest stand-out being the salad bar. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (11- 15zł). TA6UGSW Ukrainian Smak Ukraiński C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 94 ext.25, This veteran res- taurant has survived the test of time and continues to serve up consistently decent, stodgy food - shashlyks, steaks, pork, pierogi, potatoes and borscht - at suitably Ukranian bargain prices. Small children running amok all over the gor- geous courtyard garden further adds to the authenticity, but may have you heading to their folksy cellar where pleasant peasant-dressed staff keep the bottles of underappreciated Ukrainian beer coming to your table. Try all fifteen varieties and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl victim. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (14-30zł). TAGBSW Vegetarian Cafe Młynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02, The best café south of ul. Józefa since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a classic Kazimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and square-side summer seating, Młynek also serves a smat- tering of yummy vegan and vegetarian dishes like humus and garlic bread, quiches and a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho, but served hot). Sunday brunch com- plete with live classical music between 11:00 and 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (16-23zł). PTA6EGBSW Glonojad (Algae-eater) D-2, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 77, We’re the first to ap- plaud the opening of any vegetarian restaurant in PL, and while Glonojad’s concise, eastern-inspired menu - featuring curry, samosas, burritos and daily specials - is a refreshing alternative to your typical Polish cafeteria, the fact that the aforementioned mains hit rather low on the flavour scale and are served with two sides of standard slaw/salad in an uninspired interior means the end result isn’t that far off from being a sort of veggie milk bar; albeit one with beer and wine, wifi, a computer and even a mini bike-service to use. Fast, filling, healthy and a great value for your money, Glonojad is sure to be popular with students sick of greasy cutlets, but will sadly leave those with an appetite for more creative veggie fare disappointed. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (9-16zł). TA6GBSW Green Way C-3, ul. Mikołajska 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 10 27, Despite the somewhat soulless corporate packaging, this is an decent vegetarian effort well-favoured by students and travellers. Serving pita sandwiches, samosas, crepes, quiche, curry, enchilladas, some delicious spinach dumplings as well as daily specials, the prices are fair and affordable, though the ambience leaves a bit to be desired. It’s also just off the market square, making it the most central of all Kraków’s veggie offerings. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (11-22zł). PT6GBS Karma A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 506 06 06 84. One of Kraków’s most forward-thinking locales, in addition to excellent, free-trade coffee and tea, this modern cafe of- fers a range of treats for those who have embraced vegan or gluten-free lifestyles. All of the outstanding baked goods, including tarts, cakes and cookies, are made on site, and daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-frys and curries at great prices. There’s even a breakfast menu, giving you every reason to go early and often. For vegans, vegetarians, and anyone who enjoys great coffee, Karma is a must-visit. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (15-23zł). TA6GSW Momo D-6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. A cheap and cheerful vegetarian/vegan restaurant churning out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable mashes, a good choice of salads, a few Indian and Asian dishes and even kimchee. Popular with left-leaning schoolteachers, the wacky backpackersetandpeoplethatrefusetostopsmiling,Momo’s prices remain ludicrously cheap and the food is both healthy andworthcomingbackfor.Trytheexcellentspicysambarsoup and don’t forget to smother your food with their coveted pea- nut sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. (10-19zł). T6UGS NEW Pod Norenami B-2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. +48 661 219 289, Practised in the art of Asian vegetariancuisineandthemetamorphicpowersofthesoybean likenootherplacewe’veseeninPL,PodNorenami’slongmenu (toolongifwe’rehonest)featurestofu,mockchickenandmock beefpreparedinanastoundingvarietyoftraditionaldishesfrom thekitchensofJapan,Thailand,VietnamandChina.Whilesome FarEaststandbys(curries,tempura,sushi,padThai)aren’tnew toKraków,atruevegetarianrestaurantthatemphasisesmock meat certainly is, and the results have got people packing this place out and returning often. A fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual (much like the prices) as opposed to modern and kitsch (much unlike other Asian eateries). Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard? Hardly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (14-28zł). TAGSW Raw Organic D-7, Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 512 11 85 79,, if you aren’t familiar with this food and lifestyle approach, simply headtoPlacWolnicaandtheywillbehappytosingitsbenefitsto you.Thebasicideaisthatfoodlosesmuchofitsnutritionalvalue whenwecookit,thusarawdietgivesyou100%offood’snatural minerals and enzymes, keeping you healthier and happier, more youthful and energetic. Raw Organic offers a variety of creative shakesandfreshblendedjuices,salads,coldsoups,gluten-free cakesandmore.Theingredientsarenothingmorethanfreshfruit and veggies, seeds, nuts and seaweed, and the primary kitchen tool is a blender. Daring and audacious not only in concept, but also in price, everything we tasted was delicious, but you spend a lot to eat your fill and it’ll be interesting to see if this trend gains tractioninatownastraditionalasKraków.QOpen11:00-20:00. (12-35zł). TA6UGSW Spółdzielnia Organic Resto & Take-away ul. Meiselsa 11, tel. (+48) 536 77 74 05, spoldzielnia. org. In concept, ‘Cooperative’ (as it translates to in English) is an ambitious community initiative to promote a healthy, organic, vegetarian lifestyle by supporting local organic farms and creating more awareness about what we eat and where it comes from. In action, it’s a crunchy vegetarian lunch bar offering take-away wraps, stay-in daily specials and vegan A lot has changed over the years since communism got kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destina- tion as popular as Kraków hardly seems any more alien or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one relic remainssteadfastlyun-Western:thePolishmilkbar.These steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to an end- less queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar (‘bar mleczny’ in Polish) is a required cultural experience for anyone who has just set foot in the country. As in so many things, Kraków has the distinction of be- ing the birthplace of the bar mleczny. Poland’s first milk bar was actually opened on Kraków’s market square on May 30th 1948 in the townhouse now occupied by the upstanding Szara restaurant. Named ‘Pod Bańką’ (Under the Milk Churn), originally no hot dishes were served; this was a place where you went simply to enjoy milk (hence the name), humbly served in .25 litre glass with a straw (so classy). Run by the government, this was the new party’s ‘clever’ attempt at popularising milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine), inspired by Poland’s large surplus of dairy products. As restaurants were nationalised and then shut down by PL’s communist authorities, more and more milk bars appeared across the country and began offering cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses and especially workers; quite often meals at the local milk bar were included in a worker’s salary. By the mid-60s milk bars were widely prevalent across Poland as the party concept was to provide cheap, fast food to everyone (as cheerlessly as possible apparently). In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism that many bar mleczny resorted to chaining the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning you’ll still notice today that most milk bars use disposable dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by blue- haired, blue-veined, all-business babcias -and the food is as inspired as ever, the only difference being meat isn’t rationed any more in modern PL. Indeed, today’s milk bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as the milk soup with noodles served to schoolchildren in PL in the 1980s was. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, fortunately for us all, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open and dirt cheap through state subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. Below are our favourites in the city centre: Bar Targowy J-3, ul. Daszyńskiego 19, tel. (+48) 12 421 14 37. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (6-16zł). G Pod Temidą C-4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422 08 74. The easiest to find: look for the blue and white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (8- 16zł). UGS Milk Bars If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website,, know about it. Every venue on our website has a function for comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it. Frantic (Clubs) “Probably the best club in Cracow ! Girls are tops! Music, especially on the house floor, was awesome!!! Can’t wait to go back again!” David from Malmo, Sweden Czerwone Korale (Polish restaurants) “Greetings from Budapest to the restaurant crew of Czerwone Korale! We’ve been twice for dinner with the whole family on 29.04. and 30.04. 2013. Dumplings, salmon and beef tenderloin were excellent, lady waitress was very nice, friendly and professional. Atmosphere of this restaurant will be in our memory for a long time. Mariska, Terezia and Enre Kovacs from Budapest Cracow Chocolate Factory (Shopping) “They have a million kinds of chocolates and pralines, moreover, you can drink a real melted chocolate upstairs in the coffeeshop. It is the best place for me to buy sou- venirs for my friends (e.g.chocolate shoes!!:))” Bill from UK Chorąży Czapki & Kapelusze (Shopping) Agreathatshop.Ifyouwantahat,thisistheplacetocome.” Brian Palmer from Hendy, Wales Have Your Say ristorante pizzeria caffè Kraków, ul. Starowiślna 15A Pałac Pugetów tel: 12 429 51 41 e-mail: HOURS OF OPERATION: SUNDAY-THURSDAY 12 p.m.-10 p.m. FRIDAY-SATURDAY 12 p.m.-12 a.m.
  • 34. 67CAFÉS June - July 66 CAFÉS Kraków In Your Pocket 4D Gelato Caffe D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Kra- kowska), tel. (+48) 12 628 73 22, www.gelat- Delicious gourmet Italian coffee and ice cream on the first floor of Galeria Krakowska. On offer are more than 30 gelato flavours and fruit sorbets, including some creative and utterly adorable sundae creations for kids, plus pancakes, bruschette, ba- guettes and other savoury eats. This modern cafe with watermelon-coloured furnishings is the ultimate place to recharge and treat yourself when shopping becomes exhausting. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PA6UGSW Bal K- 4, ul. Ślusarska 9 (entrance from ul. Przemysłowa), tel. (+48) 608 58 94 59. If you’re feel- ing a bit self-conscious about being a tourist after visiting MOCAK or Schindler’s Factory, a trip to Bal will help restore your street cred. Located literally right behind MOCAK, but with a slyly hidden entrance (take your first left before the museums), this stylish cafe, bar and brunch spot is part of the first wave of pioneers pitching their tents in Zabłocie (that unseemly, industrial section of Podgórze). What should be an obscure studio space has been turned into a hip hangout with high ceilings and exposed bulbs, wooden tables and white walls. At its best in the mornings with great coffee and breakfast offerings (note the all-you-can-eat weekend brunch buffet for only 15zł), daily lunch specials accompany soup, sandwiches, quiche and a good beer selection. Essentially the antithesis of everything in the Old Town, with Bal Kraków’s young creatives are marking their territory. Find it and find out. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. TA6UGBSW NEW Bococa H-2, Pl. Inwalidów 7, tel. (+48) 12 359 61 65. This small NYC-inspired cafe/bistro is a great place to start the day or get some work done, offering all the (heretofore locally unheard of) hallmarks of a good brunch spot: delicious coffee, good sweets and healthy eats, fine wines and great bottled from Belgium, the UK and PL, vitamin-rich veggie cocktails and shakes, reliable wifi, and (drum roll, please)...even mimosas! As soon as you walk in the door, you can tell: this place gets it. Featuring a sharp, black and white interior of exposed bricks and fixtures, the Pl. Inwalidów location is a bit off the beaten track, but easily accessed by tram and bus. Essentially a little slice of Green Point (Brooklyn’s predominantly Polish neighbourhood), here in Kraków; let’s keep this ironic cultural exchange going (more like this, please). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PTA6GSW Cafe Szał C-3, Rynek Główny 1-3, tel. (+48) 695 60 27 74. On the second floor of the renovated Cloth Hall, Cafe Szał offers great views of St. Mary’s Basilica and the market square from its large terrace, but don’t be surprised if you’re asked to pay 2zł for the privilege, even if you’re ordering something (Welcome to PL!). Aside from that annoying policy (which is in place to keep museum tourists from swarming the deck), this is a clever spot for a romantic dessert date or snapping some stellar photos, and you’ll be happy to know the terrace is free to everyone on Mondays, Sundays, as well as every day in the evenings after the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery has closed (IYP tip: during the day try sneaking around to see if the second terrace in the same location on the other side of the spiral stairs is unlocked). The coffee, cocktails and cakes are all solid, but it’s really the sunshine and amazing backdrop that you’re here for. Soak it up. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAUGBSW ul. Pawia 5, 31-154 Kraków Galeria Krakowska (level -1 & +1) tel. 12/628-73-22 4D Gelato Caffe Gelato Caffé Few things in life get a Pole more animated than a good dessert. Ranging from doughnuts and pastries to a plethora of cakes and tortes, many of which have come to be associated with particular holidays, Polish desserts are known for not being too sweet and for too often incorporating marmalade, gelatine or alcohol (in our opinion, anyway). The classic Polish desserts we list below can be purchased in any ‘cukiernia’ (pastry shop) worth its salt (or sugar, as the case may be) and many cafes. Sernik Polish for ‘cheesecake,’ sernik is one of the country’s most popular desserts and you’ll have a hard time convincing any Pole you’ve been to their country if you don’t try it. Made with a sweet curd cheese (twaróg) and served cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with raisins, gelatine or chocolate sauce. Every Polish family has a sernik specialist whose job it is to bring one of these delicious cakes to holiday gatherings and get-togethers. Szarlotka Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world come from Poland, and Polish apple pie is a standard served almost everywhere you go. Made with shortbread, the apples are typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon and cloves. Kremówka A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremówka was popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who made the mistake of offhandedly commenting about eating cream cakes once in his hometown of Wadowice, thus creating a cottage industry in the small town 50km southwest of Kraków almost overnight. Pierniki Polish gingerbread, or pierniki, comes in many varieties, but the most famous is Toruński Piernik, which has been produced in the northern town of Toruń since the Middle Ages. Slightly soft, chewy and flavoured with honey, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, anise and lavender, these small gingerbread cookies can be glazed with sugar, covered in chocolate or filled with marmalade. Pączki A tradition since the 1700s, pączki are so popular they even have their own holiday – Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday) – when everyone in PL fills their faces with these dense deep-fried doughnuts. Typically filled with rose jam, glazed with sugar and topped with candied orange peel, pączki are similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main difference being that Poland’s conservative tendencies ensure there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made around trying to find. Makowiec Traditionally eaten at Easter and Christmas, this poppy seed dessert can be made as a cake, or as a bread loaf with a dense swirl of slightly sweetened poppy seeds in the centre. Sometimes alcohol is added to the filling, and icing and orange zest often glaze the bread. Polish Desserts Camelot C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421 01 23. Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collection of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolors pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local stage celebrities and braying tour- ists inside what is no less than a city institution. An extensive menu features all-day breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of warm local liquors, and the elevated seat in the window may be the most romantic spot in town. A cultural institution, descend to the cellar on Fridays at 20:00 to experience the delight- fully strange, often a tad corny, always endearing Loch Camelot cabaret. Recommended all around. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. T6GBSW Charlotte. Chleb i Wino B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte. com. Step into Charlotte and you might not be certain if you’ve wandered into a Parisian back-street bistro or a preppy fashion shoot. Here the clients are almost indistinguishable from the staff as well-bred hipsters break bread together at a central, communal table while their aproned friends scurry up and down the stairs with rattling trays full of homemade honey and jam jars. The menu is built around the delicious bread and croissants baked on site and includes French classics like Croque Madame and creme brulee, gourmet cheese and meat platters - all accompanied by great coffee or wine. The high ceilings and wall-length windows give Charlotte an open, sociable atmosphere, which either makes up for or explains the often spotty service - we’ll let you decide. We only know we’ll be happily returning. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. TA6GBSW A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a ciga- rette and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some western countries where the direction of one’s day seems to superstitiously depend on the ability to eat a good break- fast, here in PL the notion of ‘starting the day right’ with a fortifying meal just hasn’t caught on. In fact ask five Polish working girls what they’ve had to eat that day come 13:00, and you can bet at least three of them haven’t had more than a cup of yogurt, claiming they’re ‘just not hungry in the mornings.’ Mm-hmm... Hard-pressed as you may be to find a proper breakfast in this town, fear not - they do exist and we’ve provided the details of the best below. Smacznego, champ. Europejska C-3, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 429 34 93, The market square location and comfortable, yet classy atmosphere of the interior make Europejska a favourite of tourists and elder ex-pats. The extensive breakfast menu satisfies a variety of tastes with its set English, Polish and Vienna breakfast platters (29-39zł), with plenty of omlettes to choose from. If you’re not ready to take on a meal at this hour, the selec- tion of coffee drinks and tortes will sweeten anyone up. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:30. PTAGSW Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55, One of the best early menus availableinKazimierz,Scandaleoffersbagelswithgenuine Philadelphia cream cheese, proper English and American breakfast sets and a variety of large, fluffy omelettes - all at bargain prices. Try their sister site - Scandale Royal (Pl. Szczepański 2, B-2) - to happily go beyond bread, spreads and meat for breakfast in the Old Town. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 13:00. (9-19zł). PTAUBXSW Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22 77, Arguably the best week- end brunch in town. With outstanding ala carte options like breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros, pancakes with maple syrup and bacon, and English or American style fry-ups, you may not even be tempted by the breakfast buffet featuring an assortment of meat and cheeses, fruit and veggie salads, breads, beverages, musli and more. Q Breakfast served 07:30 - 10:00; Sat, Sun 07:30 - 16:00. (14-29zł). PTA6GSW Met Cafe & Brasserie C-3, ul. Sławkowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 98 03. Formerly known as ‘Met- ropolitan’ - the best place for breakfast in town - this cosmopolitan venue’s reinvention simplifies its offer while focuses on its strengths. The breakfast card is short but sweet with bagels, English breakfast (32zł), fluffy American pancakes (with real maple syrup, no less), and even ‘steak ‘n eggs’ with hashbrowns. Served until 15:00, there’s plenty of time to sleep in and still smell the bacon. QBreakfast served 07:00 - 15:00. (14-49zł). PTAGSW Moment Resto E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00, It’s Sunday brunch every day in Moment where breakfast is served until 16:00. Their large breakfast sets (Classic, English, Pol- ish, French, Vegetarian, Fitness) are one of the best bargains in town at 11-19zł, including free refills of coffee or tea. Q Breakfast served 09:00 - 16:00. (11-19zł). PTAGBSW Breakfast
  • 35. 68 CAFÉS 69CAFÉS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July ChederE-6, ul. Józefa 36 (entrance from ul. Jakuba), tel. (+48) 12 431 15 17, Opened by the Jewish Culture Festival Association in a former prayer house, Cheder continues Kazimierz’s obsession with its past, serving as a Jewishculturalcentreandcafe.Alargeopenspacewithwooden furnishings, Cheder hosts lectures, film screenings, concerts andothereventspromotingJudaism;howeveritsmostimpres- sive resource is the in-house library of Jewish-related books, many of which are in English. Whatever your relationship with Israel, this quiet, non-smoking, wifi-enabled cafe is undeniably one of the best places to work or study in town, with a delicious cup of Israeli coffee served in a traditional finjan to guide you. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GBSW NEW Cukiernia Michalscy B-3, ul. Św. Anny 2, tel. (+48) 12 426 49 27. The Michalscy brand is well-known, if not prolific in Kraków and this enormous new locale caddy-corner to the market square sees the firm flexing its muscles a bit. Located in a former shopping centre turned conference and banquet centre,Michalscy’scornerisexactlythat-merelyacornerofthe complex, but still the largest bakery/cafe in Krakow. As such it has quite a lot to offer tourists, especially those in large groups finding it a challenge to fit everyone in elsewhere. Specialising in coffee and cakes, you’ll find it full of families and tourists, but there’s still a good chance you can nab one of the nice window tables looking out on the square and stick a fork in some Pol- ish desserts. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTA6GSW Jama Michalika D-2, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 61, Not so much a café as alessoninlocalhistory.Establishedin1895,itwasherethatthe Młoda Polska movement was founded, with many of the leading artistsofthedaychoosingtotaketheirlibationsinsidethisgrand lookingvenue.Decoratedwithstainedglassandartworkfromthe fin-de-siecleerathiscaféservesasafavouredstampingground for elder tourists in colourful clothes, though the poker-faced na- ture of the staff limits the appeal of return visits. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. PTAUEBXSW Karma Coffee Roasters A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 506 06 06 84. If you want to rate the best coffee in Kraków, head to ul. Krupnicza. Karma’s is fair trade from Union Coffee - a small London roaster - and connoisseurs will also notethatit’spreparedwithoneofthebestespressomachines in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set. Karma caters to a more modern, alternative crowd with a range of Mamy Cafe C-2, ul. Sławkowska 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 06 65, The name not only refers to mothers, but literally translates to ‘we have a cafe’ - exactly describing the spirit of this hidden city cen- tre sanctuary which goes out of its way to accommodate parents with young children. The simple decor creates an ‘at-home’ atmosphere and helpful amenities include high chairs, changing tables and privacy screens, plus diapers andwetwipesbehindthebar.Separatemenusaretailored not only to the taste of the little ones, but also for pregnant mumsandthosewithallergies.Kidshaveplentyoftoysand games, and in summer the outside garden literally doubles the play space. Wifi-enabled so you can combine business with childcare (if you have to), there’s really nothing they haven’t thought of to make the job of being a parent easier. Take a break and take advantage. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. TA6UGBSW With the Kids vegan and gluten-free baked goods - tarts, cakes, cookies and more - made fresh on site each day. Daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-fries and curries that will make you feel great about what you’re eating, as well as how little you’re paying for it. With a full breakfast menu to complement their coffee, Karma is a wonderful place to not just wake up, but become a bit more conscious. Also a weekend location with a large garden in Kazimierz at ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 9/2 (D-7, open Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. TA6GSW Massolit Books & Café A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, A true labour of love, filled with dusty shelves groaning under the weight of thousands of titles with broken spines. This is not just the best English language bookshop you’ll ever find in Eastern Europe, but also an atmospheric café where budding playwrights conveneformutedwhisperingsandAmericancookies,bagels, pies, the best drip coffee in town, and now wine thanks to the recent opening of a comfy wine room. Ground zero for ex-pats, the bulletin board is an important community rallying point. A requisite pilgrimage point for foreigners; don’t miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. TA6GSW Noworolski C-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 71, located inside the Cloth Hall and breathe the hundred-year of Kraków’s highs and lows since it opened in 1910. Famous as the place where Comrade Lenin would read the papers during his visits, WWII occupation later saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before the family-owned business was taken away by the communist authorities, only to be returned in 1991. Things have changed little in terms of style andservicesincethen,makingNoworolskiacreakythrowback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years,buttheexquisiteartnouveauinteriorsbyJózefMehoffer are among the most decadent in town and well worth a look. You’ll find cheaper and better coffee in the city but it won’t be served to such an atmospheric backdrop. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. ABXSW Royal Art Cafe C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 40 41, Located in one of our favourite Kraków hotels, Royal Art Cafe is much more modern than the regal art nouveau hotel that houses it, with sharp lighting and design and windows over- looking the Planty. The latest presses are there to help you start your day, plus widescreen TVs on which you can catch some sports or world news in English. But Royal Art’s biggest draw is clearly the long rack of fine whiskeys behind the bar which are sure to smooth the wrinkles and loosen the collar at the end of any day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAGSW Satori Cafe-Bistro E-6, ul. Józefa 25, tel. (+48) 12 349 07 24, This charming little hideaway in Kazimierz has all the hallmarks of a great cafe: good coffee, lots of natural light, modern retro furnishings, shelves crammed with books, soothing music and a simple menu (in English even!) of tasty homemade pastas and delicious desserts, including a decent attempt at carrot cake. Ideal for work, study and even lunch, Satori has the feel of a classic local hangout, and though we’re not from the neighborhood, it’s all too easy to feel at home here. Delightful. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. A6EGBSW Sky BarC-2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, The cherry on top of the impeccable Hotel Stary, this seasonal cafe has all the class you’d expect from this outfit, not to mention the best views of the market square you’ll get without borrowing Back in the days when you couldn’t go to draw water from the well without a Tartar tipping your cow, stealing your wife, burning your house down, or all three, the city of Kraków fashioned itself an unlikely hero. While his origins are actually quite complex, the prevailing story goes that in the 13th century a troupe of sneaky, saucy Tartars had crept within striking distance of the city and pitched camp on the river, planning to attack the Polish capital for the umpteenth time come daybreak. Discovered by a detachment of hardy rafters from Zwierzyniec, the rafts- men routed them in their sleep and snagged their swag, with the boldest of the heroes dressing himself up in the elaborate oriental garb up of the Tartar general. Thusly equipped they proceeded to perform a clownish mock at- tack on Kraków and paraded themselves around town to great applause and approval. The city was so grateful for its apparent salvation that the mayor marked his calendar and made the satirical procession an annual event. Thus ‘Lajkonik’ was born and a celebration in his honour has taken place on the first Thursday after Corpus Christi ever since, for the last 700-some years. Dressed (to a design by none other than Stanisław Wyspiański) in richly embroidered red robes, a tall, pointed hat that could have been nicked from the Harry Potter costume box, and an embellished black bushy beard and eyebrows, Lajkonik (literally ‘hobby horse’ in Polish) would look ridiculous enough without the wooden horse protruding from his abdomen. Pythonesquely prancing about town on his own two feet, the merry, mock-mounted rider brandishes a golden mace which he uses to bash eager spectators on the head for good luck and collect ‘ransoms’ in the form of food and booze from local shopkeepers, en route to his rendezvous with the mayor on the market square. Accompanied by his misfit band of eccentrically dressed musicians and revelers who assist him in procuring bribes during his various, sometimes protracted pit-stops, Lajkonik is so beloved he basically has carte blanche to do whatever he wants along the procession route, which traditionally begins at 10:00 at the Norbertine Monastery in Zwierzyniec and ends in the evening on the market square, where the merry prankster isn’t necessarily expected to arrive sober. Once there he is hailed by the city’s mayor, who hands over a pile of ransom money and a ceremonial chalice, and the two lead the city in a toast to Kraków’s sustained salvation and long-term longevity. Huzzah! Though he appears in person only once a year, Lajkonik’s likeness can be seen all over town in souvenir stalls, on food product packages, and the logos and names for various restaurants and hotels. As an adopted symbol of the city, Lajkonik perfectly captures Kraków’s unique cocktail of history and legend, tradition and irreverence, spectacle and spirits. Our hero... Lajkonik Photo: Elżbieta Lang, MHK the personal aircraft of one of the guests here. For coffee and dessert or even a light lunch in a relaxing atmosphere, you really can’t do better. One of the Old Town’s best seasonal spots. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. TA6UXSW Słodki Wawel B-6, Wawel 9 (in the courtyard next to Wawel Visitor Centre), tel. (+48) 12 422 05 90, www.,theflagshipsweetsshopof thiswell-knownandwell-lovedlocalchocolatierandconfection- ery is located in the courtyard of Wawel Castle itself. Featuring a full cafe and splendid terrace in the spring and summer, no ticketisrequiredtoenterandenjoythishistoricbrandwhichhas been satisfying sweet tooths since 1898. Stop in to pick up an ediblesouvenirandtrythepopularlocalspecialtiesMieszanka Krakowska, Kasztanki, Krówka, Malaga and more. Wawel hasshopsnationwide,aswellasthreemoreinKrakówatRynek Główny33(C-3),ul.Kalwaryjska19-21(I-5)andul.Wielopole12 (D-4). Q Open 09:00 - 20:00 PAUGBSW Tektura A-2, ul. Krupnicza 7, tel. (+48) 516 14 12 59. Seemingly transplanted from Brooklyn, Tektura once and for all confirms ul. Krupnicza is the Old Town’s coolest street, while giv- ing the nearby Karma a challenge for the crown of Kraków’s best cup of coffee. A point of pride for the baristas, in addition to being espressoexperts,thestaffalsooperatealternativeAeroPressand Chemexcoffeemakersandareupforanykindofcoffeechallenge you can give them - with amazing results. There’s an entire shelf of enticing microbrews, a cocktail list and full range of fresh sand- wiches,breakfastsandsweetbakedgoodstoboot.Sportingahip, urban,industrial-chicinteriorofunfinishedbrickandconcrete,with an eco-angle accomplished by stools made from coiled recycled cardboard, Tektura also provides plenty of outlets to laptoppers, reliable wifi, boardgames and basically everything you could ever ask from a cafe/bar. We hope the competition is taking notes. QOpen08:00-22:00,Sun09:00-20:00. PA6GBSW
  • 36. 71NIGHTLIFE June - July 70 NIGHTLIFE Kraków In Your Pocket If you believe urban legend (like we do) Kraków has the high- est density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of course, are the thousands of tourists that flock to Kraków every year, and with higher tourism comes higher prices: expect to pay 7-10zł (2-3 Euros) for a large beer. The open- ing hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. Bars & Pubs Antycafe C-2, ul. Sławkowska 12, tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88, As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe a ‘hipster haven’, since mocking hipsters is more hip than being one these days, we wouldn’t want to do this fine establishment that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends of this 30m long ‘anti’-café, you’ll find candlelit nooks, eccentric art, great music, and a very cool vibe indeed. True to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of an edgy bar than a quaint café, and with a great beer selection and one of the least ostracising smok- ing sections in the Old Town, you’ve all the more reason to occupy a table. If you can find a free one, that is. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PXW Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06, Over several rooms of plush seating, highfashionphotographs,danglingchandeliersandaspacious garden during the warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp, modern space that mixes the new with the old. Seductively attractive,itsrangeofcocktailsisconsistentlyamongthebest in the city. Choose from knock-out creations like the Polish Spring Punch or put your head down and do your best to rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the list. While Kraków’s mojito love-affair continues unabated, Baroque’s still looks the best and comes in positively huge portions. After years of being a premier cocktail bar and restaurant, they’ve gone and jumped into the dance scene, keeping the signature Baroque style in the downstairs weekend club space. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PABXW Beer Gallery - Luxury D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 30, tel. (+48) 601 40 88 70, If you aren’t yet familiar with Belgian beer, hurry yourself to Beer Gallery Luxury for an education. Specialising exclusively in Belgian imported brands, the knowledgeable staff are ready to tell you all there is to know about the 150 bottles in stock (also available to-go) and the 8 types on draught, as well as letting you sample the latter. Rather than price each label individually, Beer Gallery offers every bottle at an average price of 10zł. Not only does this make it easier, it’s also cheaper than you’ll find at the shop and true connoisseurs may even recognise the opportunity to game the system. While little more than a hole-in-the-wall, this Belgian beer library with its encyclopaedic menu is the only place of its kind in the country and a great place to try some of the best beers in the world while duly impressing your date. Also at ul. Dominikańska 3 (C-4) and ul. Warszauera 10 (E-6). QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUGBW Bomba B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2/1, tel. (+48) 782 60 19 99. In almost no time at all, this small bar has managed to establish itself as a cult hangout thanks to a simple concept few places follow anymore: good music and good people equals good times. Unpretentious with an interior of unfinished wood, brick walls and a small upstairs balcony level with a great view of Plac Szczepański, the solid gold playlist rotates funk and soul, electro, dub-step, hip-hop and pop. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. AEBXW ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, Open: Mon – Sun 12.00 – Till the last guest Irish Pub Certified quality Guinness, a wide range of whiskey, live Irish music and live sports on a big screen in a great atmosphere in one of Krakow’s oldest and biggest pubs. (All matches shown) The Best Guinness in Poland!!! Awarded first place for quality in Poland’s Guinness Competition. Budda Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 65 22, To get the most out of Budda you need to visit in summer when adjoining courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco dance arena. On those chillier evenings make for one of the two the warmly lit crimson interiors on either end of the courtyard, the one on the right being the better of the two. Here, drink- ers down potent concoctions under the conceited gaze of gold buddhas illuminated by hundreds of flickering candles. Check out the unique mezzanine level for something a little different, while couples suffering a lull in their relationship should choose a cozy nook and study the wall paintings of randy Indian figures entwined in Kama Sutra embraces. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAEBXW Bull PubD-3, ul. Mikołajska 2, tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68, What the Great British Pub once looked like before the brewing industry was mugged by alcopops, Wetherspoons and silly smoking laws. Squint and you could be in the Rovers Return, what with all the glass sconces, booth seating and pictures of fox hunting toffs. The Brit associations and centre stage location mean a fair chance of running into groups of lads freshly dispatched from an EasyJet, thus disrupting the armchair atmosphere which would otherwise be ideal for an after-work beer and maybe a nap. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABXW Bunkier Cafe (Bunkier) B-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, Attached to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery, this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), Bunkier’s inviting atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely negligible table service that can’t be circumnavigated. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. ABXW C.K. BrowarB-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429 25 05, On top of being Kraków’s primary microbrewery (serving rather palatable Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales), CK Browar has plenty more going for it including the handsome beer hall interior with copper brewing vats, tiffany-style lamps and long wooden tables fit for a viking feast with a fist of grog. Redoubling the barbarian potential is the possibility of getting a five litre beer tower with its own tap fitted to your table. Damn good times, the downside being that what could be an elegant, even so- phisticated, beer cellar has become a rather loutish lads’ bar noted for bad music, bad service and occasionally bad company - namely intoxicated, unpredictable and sometimes aggressive local boys. Shame indeed. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAEBXW Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12 429 66 61. Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily self- proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of smoke. How many advances and grants have been blown here it’s hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and you’re guaranteed to become a character in at least two unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back then; back before all our ambition and drive went into drink, we went broke and ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory days. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PGBW ELITE: Those who want the sexiness of a strip club, without the laddish antics or dodginess, should try Stalowe Magnolie or Burlesque - discerning clubs that keep it classy while evoking sultry inter-war ambience. Modiva and Baroque are finalists for the ‘best cocktails in Kraków’ debate, while Baccarat and Taawa are the most upscale clubs in the Old Town and Kazimierz, respectively. STUDENTS: Not your most discriminating demographic, students will go anywhere there’s fun music and cheap drinks - namely Gorączka, Ministerstwo, Społem or the legendary Kitsch, while those with more intent to impress head to Frantic and Cien. LADS: Pod Papugami and Irish M’Bassy - where matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can try the local institutions known as Kitsch and Prozak. Alternatively, head to CK Browar for a rowdy beer hall that brews its own, or sample upwards of 150 Polish and foreign ales at House Of Beer. COUPLES: Couples looking for some face time should go tipple tasting in Beer Gallery - Luxury, snuggle in a cosy loft at Święta Krowa, soak up the karma sutra ambience of Budda Drink & Garden, converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia or stay home and listen to Barry White. ALTERNATIVE: Take your tight pants and non-prescrip- tion specs to Miejsce or Bomba, your photography portfolio to Pauza, your unfinished novel to Dym and your self-destructive side to Klub Piękny Pies or Rozrywki 3. Nightlife at a Glance Certainly there can be no more Cracovian activity than sitting in the sun in the late afternoon with a beer in your hand, recounting the events of the night before, making half-baked travel plans and dreaming up daft art projects you’ll never follow through with. In fact some people seem to have made a living out of such blissful idleness (they’re called ex-pats). While all of Kraków may seem like a beer garden in the summer months, contrary to the evidence in front of you, it is not legal to drink in public spaces, whether it’s the Planty, the Wisła riverbank or elsewhere. Nor should you need to. With more bars per capita than any other city in Europe, suddenly every single one has a garden full of patio furniture the moment the sun comes out. So which to choose? Most foreigners will keep to the market square (C-3), and while the views and vibe are super, you’ll find that every establishment on the market square charges 50% more for beer; every one except the venerable Vis a Vis (Rynek 29) that is, where a beer is still a swallowable 8zł. On the square’s opposite side seek out the courtyard of Buddha Bar (Rynek 6) where DJs spin records under the stars. Other Old Town notables include Bunkier - a positively huge terrace on the Planty (Pl. Szczepański 3a, B-2), Klub Re (ul. Św. Krzyża 4, D-3), and the popular nook known as Doubting Thomas Lane (ul. Św. Tomasza, C-3). Track down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy alfresco drinking at its finest - Plac Nowy (D-6) is a no-brainer, though for the most scenic garden head to Mleczarnia (ul. Meiselsa 20, D-6). Also, don’t forget ul. Szeroka (E-6) - far less lively than the rest of Kazimierz, but less grubby as well and catches sun later into the evening. Beer Gardens
  • 37. 72 NIGHTLIFE 73NIGHTLIFE Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rock’s split level glass bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after a long day facing stern museum curators. Not the cheapest place in town, but one of comfort for many. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PAUGBW House Of Beer D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 35 (entrance ul. Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 794 22 21 36, House of Beer may be the best of the bars improving the beer culture of Poland’s drinking capital, with over 200 bottles and 18 draught beers on hand in this high ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnish- ings and large leather sofas. Full of foreigners and locals alike, the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or having the unnecessary and all too common distraction of TVs nattering in the background. Some bottles can be a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking the barman to uncork one, or try the more local ales on draught for more of a bargain. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. PAGW Irish Mbassy C-3, ul. Stolarska 3, tel. (+48) 12 431 02 21, Cheekily stationed in the midst of Kraków’s embassy row, the massive Irish MBassy is a popular place for weekenders and expats to get their passports punched and forget where they are. Numerous TV screens beam down live sports over three stories of original brick and gothic details, punctuated by sponsorship signage, sports and Irish memorabilia. Absolute madness during matches, the doe-eyed staff do well to keep track of the orders fired at them, while a decent line of pub grub - burgers and baguettes - makes this a one stop solution for a long night. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. PAEBXW Klub Re D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 08 81, Your standard Cracovian cellar bar in most respects, Re is a stand-out for two reasons. The first is its success in bringing touring international acts to Kraków: some of the city’s most exciting and memorable concerts happen at this small venue, including contemporary indie bands from home and abroad. The second is its tree-lined beer garden, which despite encroachment from the neigh- bouring English Football Club, still ranks as one of the best in town in the warmer months. Check the (Polish-only) website for information on future events. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PUEBXW Movida Cocktail Bar D-3, ul. Mikołajska 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 45 97, After the break-up of the ownership team, Paparazzi has changed its name to Movida, but kept the spirit and identity of the place basically intact. A long, narrow space plastered with candid pics of celebs practising their pout, Movida’s cocktail list is second to none and this remains first choice for anyone looking to clinch deals over invigorating con- coctions fixed by a team of specialists. Two TVs playing sports and Guinness in the fridge add to the overall appeal of this celebration of celebrity. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00. PAEXW Pauza C-2, ul. Floriańska 18 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66. One of the trendiest drinking dens in the Old Town, head to this unmarked first floor bar to feel like you’re ‘in the know.’ Full of stylish haircuts and sexy dresses, Pauza twins as a photography gallery with perfectly illuminated high-quality exhibitions, making the hipsters feel justifiably art-smart. Furnishings are modern with low loveseats and stools and some enviable tables in the windows overlooking Floriańska. Despite an atrocious queue for the toilet and typically trendy house music, this is one of the best hangout spots in the Old Town. The tenement its in represents a veritable house of culture with a cinema and gallery on the upper floors and dingy club in the basement below. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBXW Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 01, After a couple of refurbs, Pod Papugami has doubled its capacity, the upstairs has been beset by some fake brick finishing and brightened a bit, and though it may have lost some character, generally it now feels less like you’re doing your drinking inside an ephysemic lung than previously (not a bad trade-off). Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphy’s, Guinness, Kilkenny and Stowford Press cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and gentle- men alike. A great place to meet people and find out just what exactly ‘the craic’ is, PP actually captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUX SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace- Nine plasma screens for live sports, friendly staff and a quality menu of bar eats that steers towards the Tex-Mex end of the spectrum make SPE an easy place to witness your ‘down time’ overpower whatever itinerary you thought you had in Kraków. The list of world beers goes above and beyond the usual choice of local liquids, and the American interior is a combo of Yank road signs and pics of rock’n’roll heroes. Though not open late, this low-key expat and itinerants bar is still your best bet for convincing the staff to help you watch your favourite MLB, NFL or NBA team in action. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUGW Spazio D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9 (corner of ul. Szpitalna and ul. św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 29 48, www.spazio- This sleek coffee and cocktail bar is an ideal place for an early evening/after work drink, thanks to an excellent design and extensive list of alluring libations. Unwind in the window or recline in the mezzanine with one of their creative (albeit pricey) Prosecco or whiskey cocktails. A small selec- tion of sandwiches and sweets are also on hand in this stylishly modern, subtly upscale lounge where every detail has been carefully considered, from the bathroom doors to the smiles on the bargirls. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAUEGBW Święta Krowa (The Holy Cow) C-2, ul. Floriańska 16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18. Perhaps the most enchant- ing and laid-back bar in the Old Town, Święta Krowa is an intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight, cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden in a small, soulful brick cellar off Floriańska, The Holy Cow inhabits two oriental sitting rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned stools and two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure a range of invigorating alcohol infusions and in winter this is the perfect hideaway for a hot krupnik (and maybe an opium nap). We miss the terrarium, but Święta Krowa is still a highly recommended cult hangout. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. XW Lizard King C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 11a, tel. (+48) 601 69 20 32, Follow- ing their success in other Polish cities, Lizard King has brought music to the masses of Kraków, largely other- wise deprived of a proper rock venue. Expect paid entry to see their nightly noisy Polish rock acts, plus expensive beer and cocktails that do nothing to dent its popularity. An abundance of balconies and tables leading to a large stage with an old-school LED display pixelating behind it make up the head-banging burnt sienna interior. Arrive early or reserve a table if you have more than a passing interest in the evening’s performance. Q Open 15:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. Concerts generally start at 20:00 or 21:00. PAEXW Piec’Art C-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 64 25, The most attractive of Kraków’s jazz dens, and as such a honey pot for pompous, preened jazz know-it-alls. The vaulted interiors make for great acoustics and frequently attract the biggest names in the city during evening concerts, but stand warned about the rife snobbism of punters and staff alike. Live jazz concerts take place almost every night but you should check their website for the exact schedule. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. PAEXW Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84 72, www. Not dissimilar to a 1920s Parisian brothel, the interior of this legendary venue is an appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas, with jewel-encrusted pictureframes and strings of red fairy lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures. Instruments cling to the walls as a team of young waitresses in eve- ning dress bring premium-priced drinks to your table. The live music is frequently outstanding, with velvet-voiced chanteuses crooning into the night to the appreciative applause of sharply attired couples and Rolexed busi- nessmen. A club card gets you into the VIP section with its own DJ station and bar, where plush, silk-canopied beds forbid bashful behavior. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel. (+48) 12 431 03 33, A pet project from the same team behind Stalowe Magnolie, so expect much of the same. The interior is a sensory delight washed in red, with plush loveseats, scattered cushions, exotic lamps and an outstanding bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with live piano and jazz performances. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PAEGB U Muniaka C-3, ul. Floriańska 3, tel. (+48) 530 69 05 29, Find one of Kraków’s most legendary jazz clubs at the bottom of a flight of stairs in a 14th-century cellar just seconds away from St. Mary’s Cathedral. Unchanged in years, though the names on stage may have fallen off the cutting edge and it’s now mostly clogged with tourists, U Muniaka is still a no bullshit jazz venue: pay the no bullshit waitress (10-20zł depending on the night), take a seat and hear some no bullshit jazz music. The acoustics are great, the atmosphere intimate and attentive, and don’t be surprised by unannounced appearances by legends like Nigel Kennedy or Jarek Śmietana. Enthusiasts shouldn’t be disappointed. Concerts nightly from 21:30. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. PEGW Live Music
  • 38. 74 NIGHTLIFE 75NIGHTLIFE Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Clubs With roughly 120,000 stu- dents and a growing tour- ist industry egging it on, Kraków’s club scene contin- ues to expand beyond rea- son, with each successive offing trying to out-swank its predecessor. The main hedonist high streets are Floriańska (C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where narry a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday night. Don’t be surprised to encounter weekend cover charges ranging anywhere from 5-20zł at most venues, and don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of them after 22:00. Clubs in the Kazimierz district appear in their own section. Baccarat C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67 60, Walk beyond the velvet rope of Baccarat and you notice one thing immediately: a lot of money has been spent on making this arguably the most stylish and extravagant music club in Kraków. Covered in plush upholstery and full of fine touches including every elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant mirrorball DJ station, and even a room with a dance-pole and wall-size mirror that can be coyly curtained off, Baccarat clearly raises the bar on Kraków’s nightlife scene. Though they’ve since added a smoking room, this swanky swish tank was the first to go completely non-smoking in the days of the dingy Kraków cellar club, which might explain why it still looks as great as ever. Expect to pay a small cover after 23:00. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 20:00 - 04:00. PAXW Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06, The addition of this upscale cellar club to one of the Old Town’s top pre-party destina- tions will save lucky Lotharios the legwork of looking for your dance-floor larks elsewhere, and the incomparable drinks from the upstairs cocktail bar send plenty of tipsy vixens spilling straight down into this sultry spider-web. Covering great food, vodka, cocktails, a summer garden and DJ par- ties, Baroque is one of the most complete venues in town and almost unmissable for anyone who views modernity as maturity and sexiness as sophistication. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 03:00. PABXW base music club B-3, ul. Św. Anny 6 (entrance from ul. Jagiellońska), tel. (+48) 883 93 00 03, www. Long gone, it would seem, are the days when you’d just throw some chairs in a basement, some beer in a fridge and call it a club. Base continues Kraków’s current cash-on-the-cuff club trend by pimping a spectacular 400 square metres of cellar space into another posh pleasure den, this one directly across from the ancient attic where Copernicus about-faced the field of astronomy almost 500 years ago. Full of fluctuating colours, padded bricks and reflective floors, Base features four distinctive bars in four aesthetic styles, two air-conditioned dance floors where DJs slice and splice the latest sounds, and the obligatory VIP section occupying the ground floor. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. PAXW Burlesque C-3, Rynek Główny 42/ul. Św. Jana 1 (The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 694 44 01 90, www. Located in the cellars of the market square’s 16th century Bonerowski Palace, the main draw of this intimate dance club with silk-draped ceilings innovatively strung with illuminated strands are the cheeky burlesque performances that take place Friday and Saturday after mid- night, when the club’s resident dancers take to the elevated stage in skimpy 1930s cabaret attire and tease the howling crowds with dance routines that stop short of stripping, but certainly leave little to the imagination. It’s an intimate experience and one that carefully treads a line of being just classy enough to bring the wife to. Despite the face police at the door, once you’re downstairs it’s less intimidating than you’d expect with fun music and an atmosphere that isn’t too snobby for students or too grubby for gentiles. Actually, it’s a hell of a good time. Tables are limited, so reservations would be wise. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAEXW Cień (Shadow) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 21 77, One of Kraków’s best regarded clubs for several years running, Cień is a wet dream for foreign lads weaned on commercial house music and enjoying favour- able exchange rates while being fawned over by bombshell blondes who make a sport of their sex appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false phone numbers under the interroga- tion lamp of the dawn, but witness yourself scrambling back formore.Moreposturingthantrulyexclusive,aslongasyou’ve made the effort to look the part and can stand up straight, your impatience with the door queue is probably the most likely thing to keep you out of Cień’s medieval cellars. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAXW Diva Music GalleryC-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 20 66, A young fashionista’s idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over two levels: the sexy cellar club full of disco balls and laser beams, leather divans and scantily-clad sirens beyond the red velvet rope, and the new ground floor cocktail lounge for those who don’t make it past the pretentious face control. The former makes for a fun place to mingle with coquettish calendar girls between pretending to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music, while the latter is a better daytime destination for being seen with an expensive cocktail before swanking off to your own self-image in one of the many mirrors suspended on the walls. On weekends prepare to dispense some cash to get downstairs. QOpen 16:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PAUEBXW Frantic C-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83, Dance alongside hourglass figures in what asserts itself as one of Kraków’s best clubs/meat markets. The design is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but the soundsystem lures some of the best DJs around to put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to jump inside the cat’s pajamas. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAXW Gorączka (Fever) B-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 61. Neatly located at the nexus of Kraków’s clubbing corridor, Gorączka has always been the sloppy, care-free, rebellious younger sister of the Szewska family, ready to break a bottle, break into tears or take off with the first guy who invites her to his place. Following a cheap make-up job/ renovation, the character of this place hasn’t changed a bit. Dodge the queues next door, look nice and win entrance to this fun meat-market full of eager ladies making-out with their dance partners and sweaty dudes with open shirts and wandering hands prowling to the extremely loud, but proven dance hits that always keep everyone’s flesh in friction. It’s a playful atmosphere and you’re guaranteed to have a drink spilled on you, but nonetheless, you’ve got every reason to feel bad about yourself if you’re heading home alone. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAX A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some, these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on commu- nist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4zł. Familiar as the bar food of the lean communist years, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically includes śledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license, Zakąski Przekąski bars offer budget food and drink late night and are a great place to meet the city’s strangest characters. We list the best in Kraków below: Ambasada Śledzia C-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. There’s a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly every corner in Kraków these days, and we’re gonnagoaheadandblameAmbasadaŚledziaforthisfishy fad. They were first, and if we’re judging by food, they’re also the best. In case you’re wondering, pickled herring (śledź) is a ‘delicacy’ in these parts in the same way that vodka is local parlance for ‘medicine.’ The two go great together and for 12zł it’s a cheap fling with foreign culinary culture. The dive bar interior of graffiti scribbles makes ‘The Herring Embassy’ a hipster haven - one that stays crammed with clients long into morning, and is evidently well worth imitating. There’s also a tiny second location (‘MałyŚledź’)inKazimierzatul.BożegoCiała11(D-6,open 10:00 - 02:00, Thu 10:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00). QOpen 08:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 05:00. GBW BaniaLuka B-2, Pl. Szczepański 6, tel. (+48) 790 77 06 48. For those nights when you simply refuse to let the party end, despite powerful objections from your liver, wallet and better sense, BaniaLuka is there for you. Open 24 hours, this rowdy bar has proven very popular with the young folks, who don’t seem to care that the cheap beer and booze (4zł) comes in smaller glasses (.4l of beer, 40ml of vodka), and have decided that eating questionable 8zł soviet-inspired vodka snacks is now the height of fashion. Though BaniaLuka is on par with the best, you’ll find similar establishments on almost every square in Kraków, so count out your złoty in increments of four and treat yourself to an early morning vodka crawl. Q Open 24hrs. PAGBW Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa C-3, ul. Św. Jana 3-5 (en- trance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75. Well-positioned for popularity on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnia’s around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded inside and out with students and street urchins, Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and trendy formula: offer 4zł drinks and a small 8zł menu of traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs that conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and ostentation of the city’s nightlife. Did we get that right? Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnia’s faithful have us in the fold for being one of the city’s most fun destinations any time of day or night, and for making vodka blindness cool again. Finally. Also at ul. Szewska 20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6). Q Open 24hrs. GW Polish Snacks & Shots When it comes to late night street food, Kraków has you covered. Though you’ll find kebab stands all over popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriańska and ul. Szewska in the Old Town, the best of them is Pod Osłoną Nieba at the corner of Plac Wszytkich Świętych and ul. Grodzka (C-4); though with the low quality of Cracovian kebabs, that’s not saying much. Your options are actually better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the 24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all over town (see Polish Snacks & Shots). Perhaps Poland’s most popular street food is the ‘zapiekanka’ (see Cracovian Cook- ing box for more) and the best place to get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only late night food spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand. For more on Kraków’s best late night eats, see below: Gospoda Koko B-3, ul. Gołębia 8, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 35, The real virtue of Koko is revealed at 2:00 in the morning when you want a civilised sit down meal without the company of tzatziki dribbling drunks. Serving generous portions of stodgy Polish classics like pierogi and fried cutlets for the same price as a kebab deep into drinking hours, this is a handy alternative for anyone looking to fortify their stomach without making a mess of their shirtfront. Formerly stuffed into an obscure back corner, Koko’s popularity has brought about the opening of a second street-side dining room which significantly outclasses the original space in terms of rustic charm. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. AUBXSW Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski E-4, ul. Grze- górzecka (Hala Targowa). This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a Cracovian street food institution for the last twenty years. Here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8zł you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable experience. Don’t miss it if you’re in the neighbourhood. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, This sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late night menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised of tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant finger foods like brus- chetta, tuna empanadillas, Black Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (8-23zł). PAUXSW Zapiecek Ekspres C-2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, Join legions of happy locals tucking into the legendary pierogi served with no fuss, no formality by an unsmil- ing lady from behind a counter. It is a long way from fine dining but for a quintessential Kraków experience there are few better places to come. Now open all night, it’s cheaper than a kebab and a much better value when everything else is closed. Q Open 24 hrs. (9-14zł). AGS Late Night Eats
  • 39. 76 NIGHTLIFE 77NIGHTLIFE Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Kitsch C-3, ul. Grodzka 1 (first floor). After its original complex was condemned, Kitsch has actually reopened in two locations, with this building just off the market square manifesting its more mainstream, meat market sensibilities (with the legendary Łubu-Dubu upstairs), and its more local, alternative, LGBT affectations apparently moving to ul. Dajwór in Kazimierz (along with Caryca). For those that remember the outrageous old days, Kitsch 2.0 actually bears a striking resemblance to its former self. Ascend the stairs to find a fur-trimmed bar backed by the same kitsch accoutrements - lava lamp, stuffed tiger, Santa Claus doll - and suddenly you’re having flashdance flashbacks of all the mornings you spent straddling and spilling beer on sexed-up, faceless strangers on the dark dance floor before following someone outside only to be lost and leaning forward the whole walk home. Right? Never a cover and never an off-night, Kitsch now creates those beautiful memories for a new crowd of shameless students and foreigners, so why wait? Take one home tonight! QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. PAX Ministerstwo (The Ministry) C-3, ul. Szpitalna 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 12 17. A well-loved design in this subterranean sinners’ resort features lots of tile, gold brick, exposed rock, three bars, two DJ stations and raised seating areas to retreat from the dance-floor action where an eclectic range of funk, old school and break beats are likely to lure you. The smell of Tabasco from ‘mad dog’ shots lingers at the bar where bronze ass-groping barstools give you a free frisking. Always packed with students and party people, Ministerstwo hosts the city’s best midweek party on otherwise sleepy Tuesday nights and the laid-back ground-floor garden (open every day) is one of the best kept secrets in Kraków during the warmer months. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Fri 18:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PABXW Prozak 2.0 C-4, Pl. Dominikański 6, tel. (+48) 730 06 63 80. Having gone from ‘A-list’ to ‘a miss’ and then just completely missing, this well-known dance club has been renovated and re-launched itself as ‘Prozak 2.0.’ Once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to ‘pull’ from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, Prozak has used its absence to get out of most of the guidebooks (not this one), back into the good graces of Kraków’s serious clubbing scene, and onto the cutting edge with an impressive line-up of top DJs on weekends. The interior, while spruced up a bit, hasn’t particularly changed and remains an endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd is mostly local, but just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly as ever with the party continuing until the natural selection of those with blondes and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PABXW Rozrywki Trzy D-3, ul. Mikołajska 3. Essentially the Piękny Pies of the Old Town, this somewhat inconspicu- ous club near Mały Rynek draws a similarly diverse crowd of curious tourists, eager students, aimless artists, hard-living hipsters and acknowledged alcoholics. Split over two floors with plenty of seating, smoking areas, a seasonal garden, two bars, and a separate room that hosts frequent concerts and DJ parties, Rozrywki 3 has wide appeal despite making little effort. The furnishings attempt to be nothing more than functional and there’s no face control - getting out is a lot more difficult than getting in. One of the best places in the Old Town if you’re looking for a long night full of spontaneous dancing, but actually dislike nightclubs. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PEXW Shakers Kraków B-3, ul. Szewska 5 (first floor), tel. (+48) 660 11 40 34, ers. Actually the name references the cocktail twisting barstaff, but there are still plenty of shimmying posteriors in here. Shakers is your classic Cracovian cocktail club: just snooty enough for the concept to succeed, but not so up it’s own...shaker that you won’t have a great time. DJ nights range from funk to electro, with the action happening on an intimate dancefloor between the bar and posh toilets. Cocktails range from 14-30zł and though the list isn’t that creative, the bartenders put on an impressive juggling show. Violet walls, black booths with gaudy gold pillows that match the round gold tables and the ubiquitous FTV make up the decor of this velvet rope affair. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Wed. PAXW Społem C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 79, Cheekily borrow- ing their name from a cooperative network of shops prolific across Poland during communist times (many of which are still open), Społem’s underground cellars are cluttered with communist-era appliances and plastered with propaganda posters and discontinued banknotes. The Soviet-nostalgia also applies to the smokey atmosphere and the kitsch Polish pop/disco parties held in the back room where the DJ station is cleverly tucked into a Soviet-era truck and the dance floor packed with fun-loving revelers young enough to enjoy the irony. I guess you can count us among them, because we had a great time. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAXW Gold Club B-2, ul. Jagiellońska 5, tel. (+48) 510 74 50 64, If you’re in Kraków with the lads, chances are good that you’re going to end up in one of the city’s strip joints and few can match Gold Club. This veteran skin showcase has always been one of Kraków’s best and most trusted, and its move to a new space in the Old Town only means you don’t have to pay cab fare to get there, or feel like you’re trapped once you do. Chances are you’ll be getting comfortable rather quickly with lap dances starting at 70zł and beers for 10zł. Groups are obviously catered to and encouraged (they even suggest erotic dance lessons for hen parties), and you can print a voucher off their website for 50% off entryandyourfirstdrink.QOpen19:00-05:00. PAX Taboo Gentlemen’s Club C-2, ul. Floriańska 33 (entrance from ul. Św. Marka), tel. (+48) 12 426 26 06, There was a time when Krakow’s gentlemen’s clubs were relegated to the outer limits and the grey areas of its urban grid (you know, Dietla Street, around the train station). Whether you view this as a good or bad thing, Taboo has been allowed to set a new precedent by becoming the most centrally located strip club in the Old Town. Find leather couches to lounge on alongside ladies in lingerie, sculptures of naked women holding up glass tabletops to set your drink on and six curtained ‘VIP rooms’ for privacy. Gone, it would seem, are the days when the kebab stand was the sauci- est stop on a Floriańska pub crawl and honestly, could it really be Poland without Pole dancing? Also now at ul. Szewska 21 (B-3). QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAXW Adult Entertainment Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their primary resource, the Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mix- ing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by both sexes and imbibed copiously. Wiśniówka Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry-flavoured variety. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. Żołądkowa Gorzka Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, it’s best enjoyed when sipped on ice. Krupnik Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. Żubrówka One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest that straddles the border (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ Goldwasser A celebrated Gdańsk tradition since 1598, Goldwasser is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in the world, Goldwasser’s secret recipe contains some 20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint. While we thought turning the potato into vodka was an example of creative ingenuity, we’re not sure what sort of statement the practice of turning gold into vodka makes about Polish culture... Polish Vodka
  • 40. 79 June - July 78 Kraków In Your Pocket KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFEKAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE Cafe & Club Kalashnikov D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 7, tel. (+48) 12 341 58 82, On first glance Kalashnikov looks like a slender, low-key cafe/ bar with limited seating, but further investigation reveals a large year-round heated garden (shared with Trattoria Pistola) connected to a downstairs club space open on weekends and during events. Patronised by young alternative types gathered around great beer while discovering Jimmy Cliff and growing out their dreadlocks, the decor pays homage to its namesake by cleverly photo-shopping the famous Russian assault rifle into the sepia inter-war pinups on the walls, with a few stray Sovietradiosandgas-maskedmannequinslayingaround.The vibe is good and the Polish micro-brews are great, making this a nice escape from the mania out on the street. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PAGBW Eszeweria D-6, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria’s old world antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once playedhosttosomeofthecity’smostnovelconcerts,however these days it’s more of a sleepy hang-out for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the restroom may also be the most romantic in town (no wonder there’s a queue) and they have a sister venue (Esze) across the street if you can’t find a table. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. BXW Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55, Some of the best cocktails in Kraków - test the Bahama Mama - served inside a series of sleek rooms that throng with Bond girls and people who look like they may well be minor celebs. Great fusion food, an enormous garden (heated in winter) and sexy service, this is modern Kraków at its strongest. You may not want to leave. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PAUEBXW Les Couleurs D-6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429 42 70. The quintessential thinking man’s cafe, Les Couleurs is a specialfavouriteamongKraków’saging,dog-facedbohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized, non-prescription glassesandanyonewithalaptop.PlasteredwithclassicFrench posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg, Kazimierz’s most well-lit bar - and one of it’s most well-loved - is an anytime affair wherecigarettes,coffee,beer,bileandbloodareasinterchang- able and easily confused as work, pleasure and art; as day and night.Recommended.QOpen07:00-01:00,Fri07:00-02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. UBXW Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608 498737, Openedbytheownersofa retro interior decor store by the same name, Miejsce instantly established itself as Kraków’s hipster headquarters. With half the patrons not hesitating to go behind the bar themselves, here you’ve put yourself at the centre of a closely-knit social scene, which a flapper dress or oversized spectacles and tight pants will ease your integration into, if that’s the goal. Decked out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps of different shapes and sizes, offset by hastily painted white walls and fantastic Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly original with a post- industrial artsy atmosphere that makes a nice departure from the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the district’s other offerings. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. AUGBW Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, In summer this is the most glorious beer garden in Kraków, and right next to an easily recognisable film set from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. If that parade gets rained on, or you find yourself here during the dregs of winter, take solace in the cross-street interior with its Old World atmosphere of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky portraits, wooden floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling street-side windows (not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great place for a romantic evening conversation or afternoon cof- fee with a book, this is what the whole of Kazimierz was once about: taking things as they come. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. AUGBW Moment E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00, From locals to tourists, laptoppers to hipsters, they take all kinds in Moment and seem to know how to please them all. Somewhat retro with low, loungy sofas in splashy fabrics, and a great menu of bargain breakfasts, Italian appetisers, wraps, salads and a range of entrees, Moment and similarly-styled not-distant neighbour Nova Resto Bar (ul. Estery 18) have captured Kazimierz in their time-stopping tractor beam (no surprise then that it’s the same owners). In fact, Moment’s plethora of Plac Nowy seating, evening drink specials and variety of inaccurate vintage clocks lining the walls offer a handy excuse for miss- ing your next day rendezvous with last night’s club conquest. Though this would certainly be an ideal place for it. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAGBW Mostowa Art Cafe E-7, ul. Mostowa 8, tel. (+48) 519 75 40 55. This seemingly nondescript gallery/cafe/ bar is the linchpin in a raft of new venues that have turned this quiet street between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian bridge to Podgórze into one of the hippest places to hang out these days. In warm weather the small interior of white walls dressed in the underwhelming art canvases of the month spills out onto the sidewalk as young people compete for a place to pass the time drinking delicious microbrews and homemade vodkas served out of a tiny fridge. Goes to show, it doesn’t take much, and whatever it is - this place has it. If you don’t know, now you know, hipster. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. AUGBW OmertaD-6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul. Kupa), tel.(+48)501508227, out for local beer connoisseurs, Omerta has expanded to in- clude more tables, a second bar and even more delicious drink options, making it harder than ever to resist this sociable pub. Despite a somewhat tired mafia theme replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather, Omerta makes up for the lack of originality with one of the best beer lists in town. The decisions begin with foreign or domestic - the answer to which informs which bar to hedge up to and receive an impressive menu of almost 50+ ales broken down by category and even ranked for you; discover the joy of ‘miodowe’ (honey beer) among others. Well-tempered locals create an ace atmosphere and repeat visits are inevitable and encouraged. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 01:00. UGW Singer D-6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all that was to come essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride around 3 am when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PAUBXW When the steady revitalisation of Kraków’s former Jewish district began back in the nineties, much of the investment came from business owners able to purchase derelict build- ings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area that passes for furniture, add a liquor shelf and presto! - open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the spirit of the neighbourhood. The district quickly became synonymous with cafes choked with smoke, candlelight, antiques and bo- hemians, where under the stewardship of alcohol one might be able to commune with a lost, forgotten world beneath the haze. As the area’s clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of Schindler’s List, brought more and more tourists to its historical sights, Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it quickly develop into the city’s hippest neighbourhood. Today the area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and res- taurants, even ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a trace of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail bar opening, there is no better place in Kraków for a night out. Kazimierz’s history makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it is the district’s nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much of the mystique it still carries today. Bars Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day with square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemia’s murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it’s not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals. And now they’ve added a kitchen and new dining room where they serve a full menu until 22:00 and drunk food afterwards. Essential in every way. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Mon 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. AEBXW Artefakt Cafe E-6, ul. Dajwór 3, tel. (+48) 535 79 96 66, This cult cafe/bar offers a wide range of events and happenings that lure Kraków’s hipsters and artists to its friendly confines like flypaper. With two bars over two floors, the upstairs is your quintes- sentially Kazimierz-cool hangout full of odd furnishings, broken-spined books and a separate gallery space, while the downstairs is plastered with theatre posters and features plenty of sofa seating to observe what’s going down on stage. While it seems there’s always something happening from concerts to chess tournaments to comedy nights, even when there’s not, you’ve still got a great atmo- sphere, good people and Czech beers on draught. In warm weather the good times often spill out onto the street aided by the small garden, whose separate entrance is actually a couple doors down. Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PAEGBW Kitsch D-4, ul. Dajwór 16, tel. (+48) 518 87 90 55, Since the ‘collapsing stairwell incident’ (shhhh...), Kraków’s legendary and flamboyant Kitsch dance club has opened two new locations - one smack on the market square, and this sloppy disco discreetly hidden in Kazimierz next to the Galicia Jewish Museum. While the market square spot is a proven and predictable money-making tourist magnet meat market, it seems the real fun/trouble has moved into this divey downstairs club full of classic ‘kitsch decor’ (fake fur, fluorescent colours), with a large dance-floor and some sordid sofas. The old Caryca has apparently come too (occupying the separate upstairs bar) and when the seasonal garden is in full swing, makes for quite the hip hangout. Kraków’s most liberal and least bashful club, join its legions of loyal fans letting loose of their inhibitions as dance-floor brain damage ensues into the early morning. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 07:00. PUBXW Klub Piękny Pies D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 9. The Beautiful Dog is back with new digs in Kazimierz - a boho district that better suits this cult drink tank for unwashed artists, Dylan Thomas impersonators, cougar vampires, counter-culture cuties and hard-living hipsters. The layout of Piękny Pies 3.0 is conscientiously similar to its last incarnation: though a bit more cramped in the front, the back room - with its second bar, stage, DJ station and dance floor - is a big improvement over the old space, and of course chain-smoking is encouraged. Some great concerts and DJs on the weekends, while the same great playlist of classic rock, indie hits, post-punk and new wave keeps the dancing spontaneous rather than obligatory throughout the week. One of the best choices in Kraków if you want a late night but not a ‘nightclub,’ you can disre- gard the hours because this place never closes. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEXW Literki E-5, ul. Berka Joselewicza 21, Down a strange alleyway (which also leads to Goodbye Lenin Hostel) you’ll find this eclectic club hidden in an old factory workshop. Embracing the nature of the location, Literki is a huge industrial space over two floors with a caged in balcony, a small dance-floor/ concert space with a thundering sound system, dark lighting (indeed the brightest lights in the club illuminate the drinks case) and some sharp iconic graphic art on the walls depicting screws, gears and other recognisable industrial garbage. With great Polish and Czech micro- brews behind the bar, this curious cult venue is definitely worth the trek, but their events and parties are so diverse we can’t tell you what to expect; check their webpage to find out the flavour of the day. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. EBXW Taawa D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 00, Orange-skinned mini-skirted solarium casualties will feel at home in this modern discotheque that is clearly bringing a pretentious clubbing vibe into this most unpretentious of neighbourhoods. Carpeting, illuminated glass tables and purple leather furnishings round out this refreshingly one room affair where long- legged lookers dance to disappointingly mainstream music. Looking to outclass Kazimierz’s other clubs, Taawa succeeds easily, especially in design, with strict facecheck and dress code. Q Open Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 05:00. PAX Kazimierz Clubs
  • 41. 81HISTORY June - July 80 HISTORY Kraków In Your Pocket One of the oldest cities in Poland, archaeological evidence proves that thereweresettlementsintheKraków area as early as the Palaeolithic pe- riod, with stone tools found on Wawel Hill dating back - way, way back - to 50,000BC. Legend attributes the city’s founding to Krakus, the mythi- cal ruler who vanquished the Wawel Dragon. The mysterious earthwork Mounds named after Krakus and his daughter Wanda, located in the Podgórze and Nowa Huta districts respectively, were probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town slightly later in the 8th century, when it was the capital of a tribe of pagan Slavs known as the ‘Vistulans’. By 966, the date of the firstwrittenrecordofthecity’sname,Krakówhadalreadygrown intoabusycommercialcentre,thanksinparttotheambertrade. In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians, passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the 990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city devel- oped rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038 KrakówbecamethecapitalofPoland,withWawelRoyalCastle becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in 1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287. Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which would be modernised over the next few centuries. Kraków particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz - which were closely connected with and would later be incorporated into Kraków. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364 he founded the Kraków Academy, now known as Jagiellonian University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Kraków experienced its ‘goldenage.’Talentedartists,humanistsandscientistsarrived fromRenaissanceItalyandGermanytocreateimpressivenew buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks and Wawel Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture. However, after several centuries of roaring times the city’s fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in 1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swed- ish House of Vasa, Kraków’s importance began to decline, resulting in Sigismund III’s decision to move the Polish capital to Warsaw in 1596; however Kraków maintained its role as the official site of royal coronations and burials. The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black Death that claimed 20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed the world’s second democratic constitution (after the US) on May 3, 1791, however only days later the country’s more militarised and expansionist-minded neighbours Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition transpired twenty years later. Kraków developed a reputa- tion as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in 1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko initiated his famous Insurrection on Kraków’s market square; it eventually failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the entireroyaltreasury.Polandwaspartitionedathirdtime(1795) and Kraków became part of the Austrian province of Galicia. Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation Kraków’s fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable exceptions of the section around the Floriańska Gate and the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result Kraków became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and art during the pre-war ‘fin de siecle’ era. The city was also modernised during this time with running water, electricity and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century. When the First World War broke out, Kraków was besieged by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city. Kraków became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against the Austrian garrison in Podgórze freed the city in advance of the war’s end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered Kraków, setting up command of their ‘General Government’ (theNazitermfortheoccupiedPolishlandsslatedtobepurified and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over 150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as ‘Sonderaktion Krakau.’ The Jewish population was ejected from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgórze district, with the Liban and Płaszów work and concentration camps close by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between 15,000and18,000,wasliquidatedin1943withitsoccupants shot where they stood, sent to work in Płaszów or sent to their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Kraków was liberated on January 18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the city miraculously coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact. Following WWII, the dubious process of ‘Sovietisation’ began, and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the country’s largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken Kraków’s intellectual and artistic heritage through industri- alisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed, including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity independent trade union gathered enough momentum to force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wałęsa became the first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Kraków’s archbishop Karol Wojtyła became the first non-Italian pope in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Kraków is arguably Poland’s most important historical and cultural artefact. In 2011 the city was visited by 8.6 million tourists. 966: First written record of the city 990: Incorporated into the Piast dynasty 1000: Kraków bishopric established 1038: Kraków becomes the capital of Poland 1241: The beginning of 50 years of Mongol mayhem 1257: Kraków granted municipal rights 1320: CoronationofKingWładysław the Short inWawel Cathedral, the first royal coronation in Kraków 1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the Wisła River 1364: Jagiellonian University founded 1386: Kraków wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth 1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw 1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city 1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from Kraków to Vienna, defeating the Turks and sav- ing Christian Europe 1734: Coronation of King August III, the final coronation in Wawel Cathedral 1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First Partition of Poland follows 1794: Prussian army captures Kraków after the Kościuzko Uprising; city’s regalia stolen and lost forever 1796: Kraków becomes part of Austrian Galicia after the Third Partition of Poland 1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe 1939: Nazi occupation begins 1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in the Podgórze district 1942: Establishment of the Płaszów concentration camp in Podgórze 1943: Liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto 1945: Kraków ‘liberated’ by the Soviet Army 1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta 1978: Kraków’s Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtyła inaugurated as Pope John Paul II 1981: Martial law declared in Poland 1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize 1989: Party-free elections in Poland; Communist regime crumbles 1999: Poland joins NATO 2000: Kraków is the first Polish city to named European Capital of Culture 2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Błonia to par- ticipate in a mass by Pope John Paul II 2004: Poland joins the European Union 2005: Pope John Paul II passes away plunging PL into national mourning 2007: Kraków celebrates the 750 anniversary of obtaining city rights and reaches its zenith as a tourist destination 2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk, Russia; Kaczyński and his wife Maria are con- troversially buried in the Royal Crypts at Wawel 2012: PL successfully hosts the Euro 2012 football tournament Kraków Historical Timeline One of the most fas- cinating traditions for tourists and Craco- vians is the hejnał (pro- nounced “hey-now”) – a short, melodious bugle call played every hour from the east, west, north and south sides of St. Mary Basilica’s left tower (C-3). Ergo the most fasci- nating and enviable profession carried out 54m above the city has to be that of the trumpeter who plays it. Michał Kołton has been responsible for the tradition since 2006 when he took over the role from his father, Jan Kołton, Senior Fire Marshall for the Kraków Fire Brigade. Jan himself had been climbing the 239 steps of St. Mary’s tower to carry out the tradition since 1971, keeping the hejnał in the family after his own father’s 35-year stint. But the job is more than a source of pride and fam- ily heritage. The seven firemen chosen to play are on call for a 24-hour rotation then off for 48 hours. While on call, they must be alert every hour to ring the church bell and play precisely on the hour. The seven trumpeters carry out their duty with great discipline, as such a long-lasting tradition cannot be neglected. And what a tradition it is. The most commonly read legend tracing the hejnał is that one morning in 1241 the Tartars invaded Kraków (as they always do). The warning song was blared to arouse the slumbering city to arms. The man playing was shot in the neck, thus abruptly cutting off the song in mid-melody. To this day, the tune cuts off in mid-recapitulation symbolizing Kraków’s vigilance as well as commemo- rating the lone night guard who aroused the city to defence, thereby saving it. However, Polish journalist Leszek Mazan wrote in Polityka magazine that he believes American journalist John M. Kelly fabricated the ‘legend’ in 1929. While little to no documentation regarding the origins of the song has been found, Mr. Kołton and the other players are certain the song’s story far precedes John Kelly’s writing as a fire warning for the city. The melody came from Hungary and was appropriately used as a warning for fires or invasions as the word ‘hejnał’ in Hungarian means ‘wake up’. Prior to the 15th century when the tower on St. Mary’s was completed, this warning was sounded from the city walls, which is most likely where the legendary trum- peter was shot and killed. While the historical birth and development of Kraków’s trademark remains a mystery, any visitor or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnał’s living tradition defines and shapes Kraków. In addition to pleasing visitors able to wit- ness the bugle call live from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live every day at noon on Jedynka Radio, number 89.4 on the radio dial in Małopolska. The Hejnał Rynek Główny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
  • 42. 82 83 Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city. With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement of Wawel Hill, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the 13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the en- chanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Kraków is today one of the most beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a claim validated by its historic centre’s inclusion on the first ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Kraków’s historic centre is the pride of Poland. What To See Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections - the Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter), with Wawel towering between them. These three areas are requisite for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day - and have been given their own separate treatment with accompanying cultural listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (we’ve attempted to make a life out of it), don’t hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgórze - arguably the city’s most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads here where the worst horror of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played out and Schindler made a name for himself. Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Kraków’s greenest district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor attrac- tions, Kościuszko Mound. Within these pages you’ll also find a section devoted to Nowa Huta, one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis of everything Kraków’s Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka, Auschwitz-Birkenau and Tarnów, information about all of which you’ll find here by reading on. However long your stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide will help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Kraków and Małopolska. OLD TOWN ible altarpiece and stained glass. It’s from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers that a bugler plays an abbreviated tune every hour on the hour - don’t miss it. On the other side of the square you’ll find the Town Hall Tower, with a viewing platform at the top (open in season) and a theatre and bar in the former basement prison. Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to pl. Wszystkich Świętych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis’ Basilica (B/C-4) with an Art Nouveau interior by Stanisław Wyspiański that should not be missed, while directly before you are three more incredible stained glass windows by Kraków’s favourite son in a specially-made modern building. Ulica Grodzka leads you past SS Peter & Paul’s Church (C-4) with its striking sculptures of the 12 disciples posed before it. Cut across the small square to your right and you’ll find yourself on one of Kraków’s most handsome streets, ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul II’s former residence is at numbers 19-21, which now house the Archdiocesan Museum (C-5). Kanonicza lets out directly at the foot of Wawel Castle (B/C-5), the city’s defining landmark. A source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel is worth spending half a day exploring, as well as the Wisła riverbanks below. Other Old Town highlights include the fabulous 20th century art collection on the top floor of the main building of the National Museum (H-3). The Old Town is also home to the second oldest university in Central Europe. Jagiellońian University’s Collegium Maius (B-3) is the school’s oldest building and was the studying place of Copernicus. Take an hour out to see the incredible library and lecture hall, as well as the oldest surviving globe in the world to depict the Americas. Finally, anyone looking to do some bizarre bargain hunting should head to one of Kraków’s catch-all marketplaces, with Stary Kleparz (C/D-1) and Hala Tar- gowa (E-4) - especially during the latter’s Sunday morning flea market - being bona fide cultural experiences in their own right (see Shopping for more). SIGHTSEEING SS Peter & Paul’s Church Photo: Paweł Krzan,, The main market square and St. Mary’s Basilica. Any exploration of Kraków’s Old Town should start with the ‘Royal Route’ - the historical coronation path of Polish kings when Kraków served as the royal capital from the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century. Most of the Old Town’s prime sights lay along this route from the Floriańska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less noble lineage, however, the route begins at Kraków’s train sta- tion (E-1), a walk from which to the main market square is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from the station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in the green space that encircles the Old Town known as the Planty (D-2). Ideal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty was once a series of medieval fortifications surrounded by a moat. After Poland’s Third Partition in the late 18th century, the order came down from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I to dismantle these neglected structures, however thanks to local effort the northern parts of the wall were spared, including the magnificent Barbican and Floriańska Gate. Walking the two blocks towards the Barbican, take note of the Słowacki Theatre (D-2) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A marvellous Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while it’s a bit difficult to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable ticket to the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the circular fortress of the Barbican (D-2) was added to the city’s defences in the late 15th century while, directly across from it, the Floriańska Gate (D-2) that officially began the Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and you’re on one of Kraków’s main commercial streets. Behind the Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs don’t fail to notice the architectural detail of the facades. On this street you’ll find the Jan Matejko House and Museum, as well as the underappreciated Pharmacy Museum (C-2). Arriving upon Kraków’s main market square or ‘Rynek’ (C-3), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with your finger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important sights in the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval market square in Central Europe, Kraków’s Rynek is 200 metres square and functions as the city’s social gravitation point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, filled with people, pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades and other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall or ‘Sukiennice’ - a neo- Gothic structure which has served as a market for merchants since the Middle Ages, and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek Underground museum housed beneath it, not to mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery on the first floor. Directly before you as you’re leaving Floriańska is St. Mary’s Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country famed for its incred- Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 33, Also at ul. Floriańska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 09:00 - 21:00). QOpen 07:15 - 19:45. Y C-3, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 12 346 38 99, Of- fering a wide range of tourist info and services, including a variety of sightseeing tours of Kraków (on foot, by bike, by boat, by electric car) and the region (including Auschwitz, Zakopane, Wieliczka and more) for groups and individuals. Also at ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3, open 08:00 - 21:00) and ul. Grodzka 28-30 (C-4, open 08:00 - 21:00). QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Jordan Tourist Information and Accommoda- tion Centre D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60 91, QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kraków History Museum Visitor Services Centre C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, Tourist info, ticket sales and gift shop for all 15 branches of the Kraków History Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. See Krakow C/D-2, ul. Floriańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, Also at ul. Grodzka 18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30), ul. Grodzka 59 (C-5, open 09:00 - 20:00), Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:00) and the ul. Basztowa underpass (D-2, open 09:00 - 20:00). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Tourist Information Mały Rynek. Photo: Paweł Krzan,, The Wawel Dragon entertains on the Wisła riverbank. Credit: Paweł Krzan, More beautiful photos of Kraków available online at,
  • 43. 85OLD TOWN June - July 84 OLD TOWN Kraków In Your Pocket St. Mary’s Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka) C-3, Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www. Tartar invasions of the 13th century left the original church in a heap of ruins and con- struction began on St. Mary’s using the existing foundations. It doesn’t matter how many times you see it, the altarpiece, stained glass windows of the nave, and the blue, starred ceiling will take your breath away. The magnificent altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work of the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz), and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the apostles. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański. Several local legends are attached to St. Mary’s. The architect of the smaller tower murdered his brother (the architect of the taller), apparently jealous that his structure was shorter and less elaborate. Racked with guilt he then committed suicide by throwing himself off the roof of the cathedral. Nowadays the taller tower is home to one of Kraków’s most enduring traditions. The bugle call played on the turn of every hour apparently takes its origins from an event in 1241. Having spotted invading Tartar forces on the horizon, a lone fireman started playing his trumpet to alert the habitants of Kraków. He was shot with an arrow in his neck, abruptly cutting off the tune mid-melody, but the town was roused from its sleep and defended itself. In honour of this event, seven local firemen now have task of tooting the tune every hour. The first written mention of the tradition dates back to 1392, though a local magazine recently claimed the whole custom was invented by an American in 1929. QOpen 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 15 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł. AB City Tour ul. Kościuszki 49, tel. (+48) 12 427 27 57, Their large fleet of electronic golf-carts (heated in winter!) zips tired-footed tourists around all the sights in town, while informational audio recordings explain Kraków’s history in an astonish- ing 26 available languages. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Y Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 33, The best value trip to Auschwitz on offer. Also at ul. Floriańska 44 (D-2, 12 421 13 27, Open 09:00 - 21:00). QOpen 07:15 - 19:45. Y Cracow Tours B-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 26, Variety of tour pack- ages including city centre tours, Auschwitz, the salt mines and Zakopane. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. C-3, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 12 346 38 99, This helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car tours of Kraków, as well as airport transfers and excursions to Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also at ul. Grodzka 28-30 (C-4, open 08:00 - 21:00) and ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3, open 08:00 - 21:00). QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. The Tourist Guide Association (Stowarzysze- nie Przewodników Turystycznych - Kraków), tel. (+48) 725 72 52 00, These well-connected linguists can help you find and book tours of Kraków in English, Czech, French, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, Dutch, Swedish, German, Polish, Russian, Slovak, Serbian and Croatian. Guided ToursChurches There’s hardly a resident of Kraków who doesn’t have a church for a neighbour. While the number of churches, ca- thedrals and monasteries in the city is almost endless, we’ve used a bit of discrimi- nation in only listing the most remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch here. All of these places of worship are located in the Old Town and still active to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to visit during services. Kazimierz, Podgórze and Nowa Huta churches are listed in their respective sections. Holy Trinity Basilica (Bazylika Św. Trójcy) C-4, ul. Stolarska 12, tel. (+48) 12 423 16 13, www.krakow. Built in 1250 by Dominican friars from Bologna, the church lost many of its treasures when it was gutted by fire back in 1850. Rebuilt in 1872 this huge struc- ture is now an important evangelical centre. The image of Our Lady of the Rosary, found inside the Rosary chapel, is said to have healing powers. Q Open 09:30 - 11:30, 13:30 - 16:30; closed to tourists on Sun. SS Peter & Paul’s Church (Kościół Św. Piotra i Pawła) C-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, Kraków’s premier Jesuit Church was built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing on the gates outside are its most striking feature, although the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which proves the earth’s rotation, shows demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be sure. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. St. Adalbert’s (Kościół Św. Wojciecha) C-3, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www.kosciol- Kraków’s oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan at the southeast corner of the Cloth Hall, a mad mix of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture, all crammed together in a higgledy-piggledy jumble of religious styles. The earliest parts of the building date from at least the 11th century, pre-dating the Rynek and explaining its seemingly random position within it. St. Adal- bert had his own cult following at the time, which explains how it managed to survive. A look inside is well worth it, not least because the floor sits some two metres below the surface of the main square. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:30 - 18:00. St. Francis’ Basilica (Bazylika Św. Franciszka) C-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, Our favourite church in Kraków thanks to the gorgeous interior Art Nouveau murals by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns that make this the most colourful place of worship in the city. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass windows around 1895, including the controversial and iconic centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of Creation.’ Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis’ Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at another church. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 15:00. Every 2nd Sunday of the month open 13:30 - 14:30 only. No visiting during mass, please. • Barbican D-2, ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 20, www. The showpiece of the city’s medieval defences, the Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to protect Kraków’s main entrance and was con- nected to the Floriańska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat that surrounded it. 24.4 metres in diameter with walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved impenetrable and today stands as one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Europe; cer- tainly the most well-preserved. Built in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers and rifle- men. Today the Barbican is used for various special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as an outdoor museum between the months of April and October, where you’ll learn the history of Kraków’s defensive walls. As the bastion is almost always empty, it makes a fantastic place for a game of tag or an outpost for spying on passersby, however beware the gruesome sight of pigeons who have inadvertently lynched themselves in the netting meant to keep them out of the turrets. We guarantee you’ll see at least three. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00. Admis- sion 8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Ticket includes admission to the nearby City Defensive Walls. Barbican Słowacki Theatre (Teatr im. Juliusza Słowackiego) D-2, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki. Regarded today as an architec- tural masterpiece, the Słowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when construction began due to the demolition of the medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it - an act that drew the ire of local cultural bigwigs like Jan Matejko. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled his design for the theatre on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade which is decorated with allegorical figures. Sadly, the interior is usually off limits to the public unless there is a produc- tion on; a pleading look is usually enough to get past this obstacle. The foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-de-siecle thinking, and the stage curtain is itself worth the James Bond deviousness needed to sneak in. Designed by Henryk Siemiradzki it features beautiful paintings representing drama, comedy, music and dance. Poland’s first cinema show was held here in 1896. Q Open depending on repertoire. Guided tours can be arranged by phone for 130zł (up to 40 people), but are only available in Polish at this time. Słowacki Theatre
  • 44. 86 OLD TOWN 87OLD TOWN Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Monuments Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Rynek Główny. One of the most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate the centenary of the great man’s birth, and, like so many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the oc- cupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original, and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place. Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (who’s most famous work, Pan Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’ and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas Mickevičius) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down the road at Wawel. Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) B-3, Rynek Główny. Among Kraków’s most well-known landmarks, this sculpture in the western corner of the market square is a popular meeting place and at some point serves as a photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who visits the city. Affec- tionately referred to as ‘The Head’, the bronze body part’s official title is ‘Eros Bendato’ (Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj. A student of Tadeusz Kantor’s at the Kraków School of Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitoraj’s monumental works dressed the Rynek from Oct 17, 2003 to Jan 25, 2004, during which the artist gifted this work to the city, sparking controversy over what to do with it. Initially, the sculpture was designated for Plac Kolejowy (E-2), but the artist was indignant about having his work in front of a com- mercial building (Galeria Krakowska). Despite protest from historians and many locals, the sculpture eventually found it’s current place near the Town Hall Tower, where it has become an unexpected tourist attraction. In summer, children can be seen crawling all over the hollow edifice, sticking their heads and limbs through the eyeholes for camera-snapping parents, though winter too often finds it profaned with trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitoraj’s work will find an- other of his large sculptures - titled ‘Luci di Nara’ - adorning the charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum (ul. Grodzka 53, C-4), and another in front of the Kraków Opera building (ul. Lubicz 48, E-2). Grunwald Monument (Pomnik Grunwaldu)D-1, Pl. Matejki. The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies of Poland and Lithuania against the Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, is considered to be one of the greatest battles ever to take place in medieval Europe. A defining moment in Polish history, the battle was immortalised in Kraków with the unveiling of this weighty monument in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulski’s (1877-1919) original masterpiece was, not surprisingly, destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy that now stands in its place dates from 1976, having been faithfully reproduced using sketches and models of the origi- nal. At the top on his horse is the King of Poland Władysław Jagiełło, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle. fot. Iwona Grabska Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) C-3. Kraków’s main market square (Rynek) serves as the city’s gravitational centre, and is the natu- ral start and finish point for any tour of the city. Originally designed in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter - the grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square has changed little in the years that have fol- lowed. Measuring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names, histories and curiosities. Through the centuries it was in Kraków’s Rynek that homage to the king was sworn and public executions held. Most famously it was here that Tadeusz Kościuszko roused the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794. The Rynek has always been the natural stage for public celebra- tions, with everything from parades of sausage dogs to Christmas crib competitions taking place. Not all the events have had been happy affairs however, and back in the 17th century King Jan Sobieski III was privy to a firework display which ended in bloodshed when some of the explosives were accidentally fired into the crowd. More recently the market square was subjected to a Nazi rally attended by Der Führer himself when the square’s name was changed to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ during German occupation. Fortunately the moniker didn’t last long and today the Rynek occupies itself by hosting annual Christmas and Easter markets, as well as numerous festivals and outdoor concerts. Taking centre stage is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this huge hall was effectively the first shopping mall in the world. To this day it is still crammed with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. In 2010, Rynek Underground (see our box) - a 4,000m2, hi-tech museum tracing the history of the Cloth Hall, and that of the entire city - opened un- derneath it, while the second floor hosts the underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery. Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Poland’s most eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz. Ironically, the bard never visited the city until after his death when his remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt, but this hasn’t stopped the statue from becoming one of Kraków’s best loved monuments. Across from Mickiewicz looms the magnificent St. Mary’s Basilica, its crowning glory being Veit Stoss’ altarpiece. The area surrounding the Basilica was formerly a cemetery, and the bodies of hundreds of Cracovians still lie beneath the cobbles. Ghoulish tourists will also appreciate the set of metal neck restraints displayed on the side door of St Mary’s, formerly used to punish philandering women. On the square’s other side is the 70 metre Town Hall Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and uncaring demolitions. From April to November, visitors can ascend up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted rooms which contain, amongst other things, 1960s photographs of Kraków and look out on the square below from the viewing point. Main Market Square Museums Kraków is host to a plethora of museums. Opening hours and exhibitions that are continually closing for restoration can strike visitors as willfully eccentric, until one stops to consider how much patience and care - and how little capital - is invested to maintain such high standards. It is for this reason that philanthropic visitors may even see fit to throw an extra złoty into the collection box. Alternatively, cheapskates and paupers should note that all branches of the National Museum are free on Sundays. The museums listed here are in the Old Town, while Kazimierz and Podgórze museums are listed in their respective sections of the guide. 19th Century Polish Art Gallery C-3, Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 424 46 03, www. Open again after a lengthy closure, this magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Of particular interest for their status as national treasures are the Italian-born, Polish-resident Marceli Bacciarelli’s ‘Portrait of Stanisław August Poniatowski in Coronation Dress’ from around 1790 and, a century on, Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’ from 1894. Other painters of note on display whose works shouldn’t be missed include Jan Matejko, Jacek Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz. One of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 24zł, audiogu- ide 5zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologic- zne) B-4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00, Though fresh from a recent boost of cash, Kraków’s Archaeology Museum may still seem out- dated and underwhelming to many visitors, particularly in comparison to Kraków’s other museums (mostly excellent) and natural history museums they may have visited else- where. Nonetheless, it has improved. In addition to the famous Zbruch Idol (see our box), regional Stone Age ar- tefacts and a charming room dedicated to local clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the museum houses a permanent collection of artefacts from ancient Egypt including some beautiful shrouds, a number of intricately decorated sarcophagi and some mummified cats. The lat- ter exhibition is best enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide, available for an extra charge. Housed in an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden (izł charge if you aren’t visiting the museum) - a great place to relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. From July open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 7/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Audioguide 5zł. Y Zbruch Idol
  • 45. 88 OLD TOWN Kraków In Your Pocket Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtyła (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne Kardynała Karola Wojtyły) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, John Paul II lived here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtyła, the young priest with a penchant for skiing (his Head skis are on show) and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among the items on display, you will find presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only hold the attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Personal guided tours available or for groups up to 25 people in French, English and Polish. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł, family ticket 12zł. Guided tours 60zł. Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace (Pałac Biskupa ErazmaCiołka)C-5,ul.Kanonicza17,tel.(+48)12424 9370, ace holds two permanent exhibitions of the National Museum, ArtofOldPolandfromthe12thto18thCenturiesandOrthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. As you could have guessed, both exhibitsconsistentirelyofsacralartfrombeforetheideaof‘art’ wasappliedtonon-religioussubjectmatter(howmanycenturies did that take?). Most of it came directly out of Kraków’s own churches or others in the region, and most of it is admittedly superb, if that’s your thing. If it’s not, it’s a bit of a snoozefest. The highlight is without doubt the strange 16th century Christ RidingaDonkey,anearlife-sizewoodensculptureofeveryone’s favourite model doing just that with vacant eyes and the mule atop a wagon. Eerily beautiful. Also of note is the wooden Ma- donna from Krużlowa which dates from around 1400. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30minutesbeforeclosing.Admission12/6zł,familyticket24zł, audioguide 5zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. City Defensive Walls (Mury Obronne) D-2, ul. Pijar- ska, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 20, This small museum is in turns uninformative and overly informative, but basically it gives you a chance to climb around what’s left of Kraków’s 13th century defensive walls. Pass a few silly man- nequinsinmedievaldressenroutetoafilmwithfantasticvirtual recreations of ancient Kraków (in Polish only), before walking thelengthofwallbetweentwotowersandgettingadescription of the other 40-odd towers demolished by the Austrians in the 18th century. Enjoy views and great photo opportunities over Floriańska street, but generally a visit to the Barbican (see Old Town Places of Interest) is more interesting and informative. Tickets are valid for 7 days and include entry to the Barbican as well.QOpen10:30-18:00.Admission8/6zł,familyticket16zł. Ticket includes admission to the nearby Barbican. Gallery of Ancient Art (Arsenał - Galeria Sztuki Starożytnej) C-2, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 55 66, This small branch of the National Museum is also a satellite of the Czartoryski Museum across the street, and brings together three unique collections of ancient art amassed abroad during the 19th and 20th centuries by the Czartoryski family, the Potocki family of Krzeszowice and the Kraków National Museum. On display are artefacts primarily from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome dating from between 3000 BC to the 7th century AD, with highlights including marble sculptures, Egyptian sarcophagi and animal mummies. It’s amazing that these items found their way to Kraków and they provide an interest- ing look at the material culture of the ancient world, but are hardly required viewing for those without a special interest in antiquity. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, familly ticket 16zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Cloth Hall (Suki- ennice) C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3, www. Theiconicglory-pieceat the centre of Kraków’s market square, there is proof that a struc- ture of some sort has existed on the site of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) since the mid-13th century. Originally resembling two rows of stone trading stalls with a thoroughfare running between them, a roof was erected over them around 1300 before King Kazimierz the Great approved the construction of a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century. As a result, Kraków’s importance as an east-west trading post increased; though the name ‘Sukiennice’ refers specifically to the trade of textiles and fabrics, Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines. After a fire destroyed the building in the mid-16th cen- tury, the Sukiennice underwent a Renaissance facelift overseen by Jan Maria Padovano (1493-1574) featuring brilliantly deformed gargoyles by the Italian-Polish sculp- tor Santi Gucci on the façade. At this time the Cloth Hall was probably the most magnificent building in all of Kraków. By the mid-1870s, however, Poland had been partitioned for nearly a century and the Cloth Hall was in a rather decrepit state. Between 1875-79, while the city was part of Austro-Hungarian-controlled Galicia, many of the outbuildings were torn down and the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside arcades were added by Tomasz Pryliński, a student of Jan Matejko. The interior was converted into a series of wooden stalls and on October 7th, 1879 the Kraków City Council voted to give half of the upper floor of the Cloth Hall over to the creation of the first Polish National Museum. It quickly became the focal point for a huge celebration of Polish patriotism attracting Poles from all three partitions as well as those from self-imposed exiles abroad. The 20th century saw ongoing development of the build- ing with the most significant work being carried out in the late 1950s when much of the 19th century interior was replaced. By the start of the 21st century, however, the building, particularly the display areas inside, was in poor condition and unprepared for the demands of a 21st century museum or shopping area. Beginning in August 2006 and lasting over 4 years, the building was given a complete re-modelling with lifts, air-conditioning and new natural and artificial lighting installed. Where once were sloped attics, you will now find lovely terraces overlook- ing the square below and St. Mary’s Basilica opposite. To take advantage of them and the adjacent Cafe Szał (see Cafes), visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (see Museums, and keep in mind you don’t need to pay admission to visit the cafe). Having visited the Art Gallery or the Rynek Underground museum take a break by visiting the Noworolski Cafe for coffee (see Cafes) and round it off by picking up a souvenir in the arcade within the Cloth Hall, where you’ll find all sorts of handicrafts, amber and other local products at surprisingly reason- able prices. And you’ll have the experience of shopping in what is basically a 700-year old shopping mall. The Cloth Hall
  • 46. 90 OLD TOWN 91OLD TOWN Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Hipolit House (Kamienica Hipolitów) C-3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, The Hipolit’s were a merchant family who lived in this fine build- ing around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries, although the building dates back considerably further than that. The inside has been transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century, and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly remarkable furniture and antiques. Worth a visit. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/5zł, family ticket 14zł. Wed free. HistoryofPhotographyMuseum(MuzeumHistorii Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego) H-1, ul. Józ- efitów 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32, www.mhf.krakow. pl. Allegedly Poland’s only museum dedicated exclusively to photography, this modest museum tracks the development of the art form over several cupboard-size rooms, including changing photographic exhibitions, an old darkroom, heaps of ancient cameras and a nice collection of historical images of Kraków. There’s plenty here to fascinate shutterbugs, but if your primary camera is your cellphone, you may not deem it worth the journey. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, except for groups (3 person mini- mum) who arrange at least 7 days in advance. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł, Sun free. Y Home Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Krajowej) J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www. This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the size, organisation and efforts of Poland’s underground military resistance from the time of the failed September campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home Army’s continuing fight for freedom within the country’s two occupied zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War II’s less acknowledged aspects and this fantastic museum goes to great length to demon- strate that Poland’s government, military and civilian popula- tion never surrendered in the fight for freedom. After a decade of collecting historical documents, artefacts and information from Home Army veterans, this museum opened to the public in September 2012 and is a must-visit for anyone interested in WWII history. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 13/7zł. Sun permanent exhibit free. Y NEW Hutten-Czapski Museum (Muzeum Hutten- Czapskiego) A-3, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 625 73 10, Located in a 19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the very centre of Kraków, this new branch of the Kraków National Museum will house a permanent and comprehensive collection of Polish ‘numismatics’ - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, who once owned the place, also includes old prints, manuscripts and othernationalmemorabilia.Anothershowroomwillbedevoted to the celebrated painter and intellectual Józef Czapski and to Maria Czapska. While that might not sound like the kind of thingworthpushingbackthedateofyourflightfor,theNational Museum has been working on this place for years and rarely disappoints. At the very least, the palace itself has been stunningly restored and includes a garden that we can’t wait to see when we get access following the official opening on June 27th. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Ticket prices undecided at the moment. Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D-3, ul. Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, www.muzeum. Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well as some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, stud- ies for gargoyles and collections of Renaissance furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this recently renovated museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Pol- ish master, and a man of many parts. Those with a special interest in Matejko may want to visit his workshop and manor house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta Museums), and the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery where many of his greatest works are displayed. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 16zł, audioguide 5zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y Józef Mehoffer House (Dom Józefa Mehoffera) A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 370 81 80, www. was one of the turn of the 19th century’s artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collabo- rating with Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches and important build- ings.This,hishouse,waswhere the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement of- ten met and is a delight to visit, filledwithelegantfurnishings,ArtDecotoimpressionist-eraart andmanysketches,designsandfinishedstainedglasspieces that attest to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months you won’t find a more magical place to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by the old-fashioned Cafe Ważka - one of the city’s best-kept secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 16zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, The Museum of Japanese Art & Technology houses the National Museums Japanese arte- facts, consisting primarily of local legend Feliks Jasieński’s fabulous 6,500-piece collection, featuring battlesuits, an- tiques, porcelain, incredibly beautiful watercolour paintings and comical woodprints. The modern building was created by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda, a native of Kraków who saw the private collection of Feliks Jasieński exhibited during WWII. Upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987, Wajda donated the $340,000 grant for the construc- tion of the museum. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 25zł, group ticket 60zł (up to 30people), Tue free. Guided tours 100zł. National Museum, Main Building (Gmach Główny Muzeum Narodowego w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 55 00, Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical histo- rians would have us believe, previous generations of Poles have in actual fact excelled in the arts. The superb National Museum of Art in Kraków showcases many such examples of their work. As well as a number of world-class temporary shows, the museum also houses fine collections of Polish applied arts and weaponry and gives its entire top floor over to the permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition - a truly awesome collection showcasing the works of such visionar- Polish Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa Polskiego) Al. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00, Until recently this magnificent museum was little more than a place of marginal interest to flight enthusiasts, most of them from Poland. A 46 million złoty investment has changed all that though. The aforementioned fortune has been spent on a brand new, propeller-shaped build- ing on four floors, bursting with hi-tech goodies including a cinema and an interactive space for children alongside a library, museum shop and a collection of planes including a marvellous Blériot XI dating from 1909 and a Polish- built RWD from the 1930s. Considering some 80% of the financing came from the EU it’s a little bit disappointing to see that most of the displays are in Polish only, but don’t let that put you off too much. The rest of the mu- seum remains intact, including hangars and buildings containing some remarkable machines, plus uniforms, photographs and even a complete Spitfire with Polish markings. The outdoor section (the museum is located on an old airfield) is littered with aircraft including several Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. All in all, the entire ensemble provides exactly the kind of entertainment and education a museum should provide, and can take up most of a day to explore thor- oughly. Northeast of the Old Town on the way to Nowa Huta, take tram numbers 4, 5, 9, or 10 -or- bus numbers 124 or 424, getting off at the ‘Wieczysta’ stop. A taxi if called in advance should cost around 25zł each way. Highly recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. Y Out of Centre Undamaged by the Nazi cyclone, Kraków’s Old Town remains in its original form, and as such represents a breathing history lesson. With a past that stretches back several centuries it’s not hard to unsuspectingly find yourself doing your boozing and dining inside a part of history. H a n d s d o w n t h e m o s t famous restaurant in town is Wierzynek (Rynek Główny 16) whose opening in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. The occasion of the gathering was to stop Europe from going to war, though by all accounts the banquet turned into a 21 day feasting and binge drinking marathon. The restaurant has been drawing big names ever since, with Spielberg, Castro and Daddy Bush being a only a few. Drink in more modern history in the Noworolski Café (Rynek Główny 1, see Cafes). This is the spot where Lenin would entertain both his wife and his mistress, while the art nouveau paintings are the work of Jozef Mehoffer, who has his own museum at ul. Krupnicza 26 (A-2). Jama Michalika (ul. Floriańska 45, see Cafes) was not only the favoured meeting point of all the artsy types in the Młoda Polska art movement, but also the home of Poland’s first cabaret, ‘The Green Balloon’. The opening night was so nerve racking for the compere he got blind drunk before swearing at the audience and falling off the stage. That’s show business, and the success of the cabaret was guaranteed from thereon. Dishing Up History
  • 47. 92 OLD TOWN 93OLD TOWN Kraków In Your Pocket June - July ies as Kantor, Wyspiański and Witkacy that any gallery would be more than proud of owning. The museum also houses a small shop and TriBeCa café. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 19zł, audioguide 5zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2, ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www. Located inside a wonderful 15th- century building, Kraków’s brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out on several floors and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of inter- est is the small exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz. Q Open 10:00 - 14:30, Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł. The Szołayski House (Ka- mienica Szołayskich) B-2, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 292 81 83, www. Formerly the city’s Wyspiański Museum, this branch of the National Mu- seum has been re-christened the Szołayski House, and pres- ents a new exhibition entitled ‘Forever Young! Poland and its art around 1900.’ Focussing on Poland’s secessionist Młoda Polska movement and Kraków’s role as its nexus, visitors will still see plenty of Kraków’s golden boy Stanisław Wyspiański - including some wonderful pastel sketches and his most iconic self-portrait - as well as satirical works associated with the legendary Green Balloon Cabaret and other noteworthy Polish Art Nouveau paintings. A new permanent exhibit on the ground floor honours Kraków’s Grand Dame of poetry Wisława Szymborska by exhibiting articles collected from her apartment after her passing in 2012. Of definite interest to Wyspiański lovers and general fans of the period, it may not be required visiting, but high marks for presentation, a manageable visitation time of one hour and a central location just off the market square make this an easy and enjoyable item to cross off your sightseeing checklist. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 18zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y Town Hall Tower (Wieża Ratusza) C-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 18, The only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining after many fires, reno- vations and uncaring demolitions, is this 70m-high tower, proudly standing next to the Cloth Hall. Ascend your way through the Gothic vaulted rooms to the ob- servation deck for great views of the Rynek, and on your way take a look at the photography exhibition of Kraków during the 1960s. Outside the tower you will also find a metal model of the old Town Hall as it looked in the 18th century and which is part of a series made specially by the local authorities to allow the blind to visualise the city. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00. Admission 7/5zł, family ticket 14zł. Y OneofWawel’smostwell-known,butofficiallyunendorsed legends is that of the fabled chakra stone. A chakra, fyi, is a natural energy point or centre of consciousness found in every living being, as believed in the religious, spiritual and yogic traditions of India, China, and independent groups in the West. According to chakra doctrine, there are seven chakra points on the body corresponding with the seven sacredstonestheHindudeityShivaflungacrosstheearth asagifttomankind.Thosesevenstonesjustsohappened to land in some of the most important spiritual centres on earth, namely Rome, Mecca, Delhi, Delphi, Jerusalem, Velehrad (CZ, must have been bad aim) and – what do you know? – the northwestern corner of Wawel’s immaculate courtyard. At least that’s where believers claim to have felt its cosmic energy the strongest. Most believers simply place their hands against the supposed energy source, though some have gone so far as to stand on their heads with back, palms and heels pressed against it leaving oily smudges on the wall that reveal its location to the uniniti- ated (when you enter the courtyard, turn left and make for the corner). Doing such today won’t earn you much sympathy from the Castle staff who consider the legend a nuisance and have done everything they can to deflect attention away from Wawel’s famous corner, including putting up a sign asking people to refrain from touching it (that obviously didn’t work), roping it off, putting museum exhibits over top of it and having a guard stand nearby as was the case during our last visit. Wawel tour guides are stricken from speaking about the chakra stone, as you’ll quickly learn if you broach the topic with one. Still don’t let that stop you from getting your chakra on. The Wawel Chakra If you’re admiring Wawel Castle, you might notice the strange, battered sculpture in front of it at Plac Bernardyński (C-5). That’s a replica of the ‘Zbruch Idol,’ a rare and coveted archaeological treasure from the 9th century. Why so rare? This is one of the most im- portant Slavic artefacts in the world - the only sculpture in existence believed to depict a Slavic god. For that reason, you’ll find replicas of the Zbruch Idol in many museums, however Kraków has the distinction of hous- ing the original idol in its fine Archaeological Museum (ul. Poselska 3, B-4). Commonly associated with the god of war, Światowid, the deity didn’t do a very good job defending himself when crusaders tossed him into the Zbruch river during the Christianisation of the East Slav tribes in today’s Ukraine. Discovered during a drought near the village of Liczkowce in 1848, the narrow, four- sided, 2.7 metre high limestone pillar has three tiers of badly-weathered bas-reliefs etched on it. The bottom tier shows a kneeling, bearded figure supporting the upper tiers with his hands. The smaller middle tier shows a figure with arms extended, while the large top section has a head on each side, united under a Slavic nobleman’s hat. Each figure possesses a different object: a ring, a drinking horn and tiny child, a sword and horse, and a solar symbol. While interpretations differ, many believe these tiers represent the three levels of the world, with the largest being that of the gods. Others speculate the stone represents four separate Slavic gods, not one, while some claim the very fact that it is made out of stone, not wood, makes it altogether non-Slavic. The Zbruch Idol Ulica Pomorska (Former Gestapo Cells) H-1, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, Con- sisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers the most chilling museum experience in Kraków (which is saying something). Located in the Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian House,’ this infamous building became the Kraków headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII, who converted its cellars into detention cells for the interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These cells have been preserved and are free and open to the public as the ‘Former Gestapo Cells’ - im- mediately to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin with the building’s main exhibit ‘People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,’ entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard. This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors chronologically through the city’s not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Kraków through an abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings and other archival materials. From the first victims executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid-50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in vivid and sometimes distressing detail. While the broad, more traditional museum presentation of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable 600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking, sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes for visit- ing. Ulica Pomorska is a 20 minute walk from market square, near the tram stop ‘Plac Inwalidów.’ Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł, family ticket 14zł, Tue free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free. Rynek Underground (Podziemia Rynku) C-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www. Opened in a blaze of publicity in September 2010, this hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four metres under the surface of the mar- ket square to explore the recently excavated medieval merchant stalls that predate today’s Cloth Hall, and to experience the city’s entire history - from its first settlers right up to the death of Pope John Paul II - over the course of some 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the museum’s popularity, and the fact that it is limited to only 300 people at a time, timed tickets should be bought in advance of when you want to visit to avoid long queues or the disappointment of no ticket availability. This can be done either online or from the information office confusingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance is located on the side opposite St. Mary’s Ba- silica, of course, and once you’ve negotiated the scrum of getting inside your experience begins with a short film projected on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into life before Kraków received its charter and the market square was laid out, displays on trade and transport in the city, and the remains of an 11th-century cemetery. Those more comfortable in traditional museums will be pleased to know there are still plenty of artefacts among the virtual exhibits, including the usual array of coins, clothing and other earthly remains. Don’t miss the series of short, subtitled documentaries covering different ages of Krakow’s history to your right before you reach the end of the underground circuit and its inevitable café and souvenir shops. In addition to the multi-lingual displays, audio guides are available in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed every first Tue. Last entrance 75 minutes before closing. Admission 17/14zł, family ticket 34 zł, Tue free. From July admission 19/16zł, family ticket 38zł, Tue free. Audioguide 5zł (ID must be left in order to take an audioguide). Rynek Underground © Stanisław Kłosin © Stanisław Kłosin Memorial outside Dom Śląski, ulica Pomorska
  • 48. 95 June - July 94 Kraków In Your Pocket WAWELWAWEL Sandomierska Tower (Baszta Sandomierska). One of Wawel’s two artillery towers, Sandomierska Tower was built around 1460 to defend the castle against attack from the south. A small chamber on the third floor would have served as either a guard’s lodging or a prison for nobles, whereas common criminals were held in the dungeons. Recently opened to tourists, climb the 137 winding steps for great photo opportunities, particularly of the castle courtyard and Cathedral.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00 (note that opening hours are extended to 19:00 June 1-2). From July open 10:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before closing. Admission 4zł. Children under 7 free. Tickets are sold from a machine outside the entrance. State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments (Reprezentacyjne Komnaty i Prywatne Aparta- menty Królewskie). Two collections in one, of which the latter is only accessible on a specially conducted guided tour, these are the rooms in which the royals once lived and did their entertaining. The spectacular State Rooms seemingly go on forever, and are full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th- centuryFlemishtapestries,sometrulyextraordinarywallpaper and the breathtaking Bird Room. Highlights include the eerie Deputies Hall, complete with 30 wooden representations of former Kraków residents’ heads on the coffered ceiling and an original throne that really brings the majesty of Poland’s past to life. The Royal Private Apartments are, as one would expect, stunning. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renais- sance details, rooms include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the charmingly named Hen’s Foot - two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower. What these rooms were originally used for is anyone’s guess, but the view from the windows is well worth the visit. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission to State Rooms 18/11zł. Royal Apartments 25/19zł (guide included). Cathedral Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 3327, ing of almost every Polish king and queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of Kraków in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathe- dral that subsequently burnt down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław the Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Con- sidered the most important single building in Poland, Wawel’s extraordinaryCathedralcontainsmuchthatisoriginal,although many glorious additions have been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Kraków, St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a suitably grand monumentdedicatedtothecontroversialclericafterwhomthe Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about asostentatiousasyou’reeverlikelytosee,ofparticularinterest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of kings and statesmen - most recently fromer president Lech Kaczyński - while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 11 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 50km away. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedra- ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides for the Cathedral and Cathedral Museum can be rented from the ticket office for 7/5zł in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech or French. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7zł. Note that the Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid to visit another day. Cathedral Tickets Lady With An Ermine (Dama z Ł asiczką). Kraków’s prized art piece is this Leonardo Da Vinci oil painting - one of only three in the world, and a sentimental favourite of Poles, reproduced and hung in many a home. Leonardo’s Lady has a chequered history; when she isn’t entertaining she always seems to be on the run or in hiding somewhere. For centuries she was off the map completely, before having a rendezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Ital- ian holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her home to his native Poland, where she was part of the family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876 moving into what would become her official address in Kraków’s Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans rescued her and returned her to Kraków where she is today one of the city’s most beloved treasures. Leonardo’s Lady will be on display at Wawel for the next two years until its proper home in the Czartoryski Museum is reopened after renovation. Exhibited on its own alongside in depth information about its complicated history and authenticity, the priceless painting requires a separate admission ticket and absolutely shouldn’t be missed. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł. Lady With an Ermine The Senator’s Hall fot. Anna Stankiewicz The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town (B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predomi- nantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Kraków’s architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and foreigners alike. Even for those who know or care little about the country’s past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-see highlights include the Cathedral’s mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of Poland’s very own crown jewels inside the Crown Trea- sury and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards and gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawel’s Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day. Castle Castle (Zamek Królewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219, Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to this day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class city. Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny i Zbrojownia). Containing Poland’s very own equivalent of the Crown Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass cases of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the country’s original corona- tion sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes, while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour 15minutes before closing. Admission 18/11zł. Mon free. Check ticket office for details and ticket availability. Lost Wawel (Wawel Zaginiony). This smartly conceived and executed exhibit presents the remaining fragments of medieval Wawel, including remnants of the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Kraków’s first church). A com- puter generated model of Wawel gives visitors a peek into the early 10th century construction. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/7zł. Check ticket office for details and for tickets. Oriental Art (Sztuka Wschodu). This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Here visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski III’s famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Para’s sabre. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before clos- ing. Admission 8/5zł. fot. Stanisław Michta, author KHRoN
  • 49. 97 June - July 96 Kraków In Your Pocket WAWEL KAZIMIERZ ished. Kazimierz was finally going places; in 1857 the first gas lamps lit up the streets, a tram depot added in 1888 and in 1905 a power station. By 1910 the Jewish popula- tion stood at 32,000, a figure that was to nearly double during the inter-war years, and a rich cultural life arose around them. But this was to change with the outbreak of WWII, and the Nazis’ monstrous ideas of racial superiority. Approximately three to five thousand of Kraków’s Jews survived the horror of the Holocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar Schindler. Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living in Kraków in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the past soon vanished. The anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist authorities sparked waves of emigration to Israel, and by the 1970s signs of Jewish life had all but disappeared. The fall of communism in 1989 sparked new hope. Kazimierz by this time had become a bandit suburb, the sort of place you’d only visit with military backup. But investment began trickling in and the area’s decline was reversed; 1988 saw the first Jewish Festival take place, and five years later the Judaica Foundation was opened. That was also the year Spielberg arrived to film Schindler’s List, a film that would put Kazimierz on the world map and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as high on itineraries as a trip to Wawel, illustrating the historical importance and public regard the area has. What To See To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). Here you’ll find the restaurant Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Kazimierz). Disguised to look like a row of shop fronts the doorways come adorned with traders’ names splashed on them: Holzer, Weinberg, Nowak. It’s not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you walk down the Austrian cobbles. Next door stock up on your literature by visiting Jarden, the area’s first Jewish bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka 6 (now Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant). The building formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed and ten women drowned. Modern day Szeroka has a raft of restaurants to pick from, though you can’t do much better than visit- ing Rubinstein at number 12. It’s named so for a reason. ‘Queen of Cosmetics’ Helena Rubinstein was born next door at number 14. Kazimierz is the district that housed Kraków’s Jews for over 500 years. Since the 1990s it has been rediscovered, and its expunged Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Famous for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and spanners, you’ll find the heart of Krakow’s artsy character. Peeling façades and wooden shutters hide dozens of cafes, many effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential point of interest to any visitor. The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz the Great. Unlike Kraków, which was largely populated by Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not until 1495 when Jews were expelled from Kraków that they started to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its Magdeburg Rights, which allowed markets to be held in what is now Pl. Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded as being one of the most influential Polish towns during the middle ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was flourishing and numerous synagogues had been constructed. Alas, Kazimi- erz was about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was hit by the plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined by the Swedish invaders. Famine, floods and anti-Jewish riots followed in quick succession, and it wasn’t long till a mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant Kazimierz a broken shell. In 1796 Kraków came under Austrian control, and four years later Kazimierz was incorporated into Kraków. It was to signal the area’s rebirth. The governing Austrians ordered Kraków’s Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and the area was slowly redeveloped; timber houses were banned, streets were cobbled and walls that once ringed Kazimierz demol- Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Kraków’s most forgotten square, it’s hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once equal in size and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny. When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski) upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each side than Rynek Główny) making it the second largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here that all the administrative and judicial authorities of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of free trade) covers only a small fragment of the square’s original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to sur- vive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo- Renaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum. Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jew- ish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed Kazimierz’s revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons and drunken derelicts. That is all beginning to change however, with more cafés and restaurants opening around its edges and a new pedestrian bridge connect- ing Kazimierz with Podgórze over the river to the south. Plac Wolnica Kazimierz Town Hall/Ethnographic Museum on Plac Wolnica fot. Marcin W Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne) B-5, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra- Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features a wealth of religious and secular items dating from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias too boot. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Royal Crypts (Groby Królewskie) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom itself), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki (1923), Józef Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski) is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the exit deposits you back outside. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Sigismund Bell (Dzwon Zygmunta) B-5, Wawel 3, www.katedra-wawelska. pl. Follow the crowds up the many gruelling flights of Sigismund’s Belfry to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell. The largest by far of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismund’s Bell weighs in at an astounding 13 tonnes (9630 kgs), measures 241cm in height, 242cm across at the lip and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as significant moments in history (most recently the funeral of former President Lech Kaczyński and his wife) the bell’s peal can be heard 50km away and is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring the strength of twelve strong men; a dangerous job, the bell-tollers are actually lifted from the ground by the force of the bell, resulting in at least one famous accident when a bell-toller was flung from the tower to his death during the interwar period. The entrance to Sigismund Belltower is within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at the ticket office across from the Cathedral’s main entrance. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. WawelVisitorCentreB-5,WawelHill,tel.(+48)12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor Centre Reserva- tion Office at least 30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for the Royal Apart- ments, however foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost if done in advance. In addition to ticket sales andpick-up,theVisitorCentreisalsotheplacetogetmore info about various theme tours on offer, pick up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift shop and café/ restaurant. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Wawel Visitor Centre Dragon’s Den (Smocza Jama) B-5, Western, low end of Wawel Hill, www. Formed about 25 million years ago, the spectacular limestone forma- tion of Wawel Hill is not the solid piece of rock it appears to be, butratherfilledwitheeriecaves and crawl spaces. As legend would have it, the craggy cham- bers beneath Wawel were once hometoSmokWawelski,orthe Wawel Dragon, a particularly nastycreaturewholikednothing more than to gorge himself on sheep and local maidens. Story goes that as the village ran out of virgins, the King promised the hand of his only daughter to the hero who could vanquish the vile beast. Wave upon wave of brave knights fell beneath the dragon’s fierybreathbeforeapoorcobblernamedKraktrickedSmok into eating a sheep stuffed full of sulphur, which instantly ignited inside his gullet. With an unquenchable thirst the dragon went and drank half the river before his distended bellyexplodedandthetownwasfreedofhiswrath.Therest, as they say, is history: Krak married the princess, became king,builthiscastleonthedragon’slairandthepeoplebuilt a city around it named ‘Kraków’ after their king. Smok’s bones were hung triumphantly outside the entrance of the Cathedral, where they remain today. His cave later became a famous tavern and brothel during medieval times and is now a tourist trap luring families into its dripping, less than awe-inspiring confines. Save this for last as you enter a descending staircase from inside the castle courtyard where it overlooks the Wisła River, to be later deposited outside the complex on the riverbank below in front of Smok’s sculpted bronze likeness unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local artist Bronisław Chromy. It was once possible to send Smok an SMS which would send him into temporary raptures of fire-breathing bliss, however he now does it without checking his phone first, so just be patient and don’t look down his throat. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00 (note that opening hours extend to 19:00 June 1-2). From July open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 3zł. Tickets are purchased from a machine outside the entrance. Dragon’s Den fot. Anna Stankiewicz
  • 50. 98 99 Kraków In Your Pocket June - July KAZIMIERZ KAZIMIERZ Churches Corpus Christi Church (Kościół Bożego Ciała) D/E-6/7, ul. Bożego Ciała 26, This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes up two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the city’s largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style, the pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast even) being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there are few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece (removed for renova- tion unfortunately). According to legend, a robber who had stolen a precious relic from another church repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 06:30 - 20:00. Not visiting during mass please. Skałka (Kościół Paulinów, Pauline Church) C-7, West end of ul. Skałeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44, Commonly referred to as Skałka, this gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most impor- tant religious sites in Kraków, with a fair share of history. In 1079, King Bolesław the Bold accused the bishop of Kraków, Stanisław Szczepański, of treason. According to legend, the bishop was beheaded with the sword seen next to the altar and then his body was chopped into pieces on a tree stump. After the murder, the royal family fell under a curse. To ap- pease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family built the Pauline Church and made regular pilgrimages there to atone for the murder. Szczepański was canonised in 1253. The Skałka crypt is packed tight with important Poles including composer Karol Szymanowski, writer Czesław Miłosz and painters Stanisław Wyspiański and Jacek Malczewski. Q Open 06:30 - 19:00; Wed,Sun 06:30 - 20:00. Crypt open 09:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please. The Old Synagogue Pla c Now y D - 6. While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes all the post- c a r d s a n d p h o t o - graphs, it is Plac Nowy in Kazimierz that has emerged as the spiri- tual centre of Kraków sub-culture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac Nowy is, if anything, something of an eyesore - a collec- tion of unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square filled with chipped green market stalls and rat-like pigeons flapping about. If you want something completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is. Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 hav- ing been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th century, and its Jewish connections are highlighted by an oft-encountered local insistence on referring to it as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square). For over 200 years it has served as a market place with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda) , being added in 1900. The rotunda was leased to the Jewish community in 1927 serving as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Following the war it resumed its role as the centre of the market around it, a function it still carries today. Butcher shops still occupy the interior, but the real action is to be found outside where hungry locals are happy to line-up outside the dozen or so hole-in-the-wall fast food hatches that operate from the rotunda, eager to taste the best ‘zapiekanka’ in Poland. Placing their orders through the small windows you’ll find everyone from police blokes ignoring emergency calls on their walkie-talkies, to stick-thin party girls getting their week’s worth of calories with this legendary Craco- vian street food. Visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness. Surrounding the Okrąglak (rotunda) are some 310 trading stalls, and you’ll find something going on daily from 5:30am till early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees but weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Sat- urdays, Sunday’s clothing market, and Tuesday and Friday morning’s bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive early to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle, ‘How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?’ As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Find the academics with beads, beards and secondhand books in places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Cou- leurs, while the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia down the road (ul. Meiselsa) boasts the city’s best beer garden during the warm months. Full of sham- bolic charm, Plac Nowy is beginning to diversify to a degree with glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale and Baroque, and Taawa - the first danceclub to open on Plac Nowy. Plac Nowy Take time out to explore the city’s two most important synagogues - the Old Synagogue and Remuh Synagogue - before veering to the right and onto ulica Józefa. The street actually takes its name not after Joseph of Bible fame, but the Habsburg Emperor Joseph II who stayed on this street while touring his nearly conquered territories. Find the High Synagogue at number 38, so called because the prayer room was located on the first floor. Looted dur- ing WWII the synagogue housed the Historic Monuments Preservation Studio in the post-war years, only returning to its intended function in the 1990s. Today it houses the Austeria bookshop (see Shopping) and a small exhibition space with rotating historical exhibits about the history of Poland’s Jewish population. Make a right on ul. Estery to visit Plac Nowy, or continue past the numerous cafes, art galleries and antique shops to ul. Józefa 12 (D-6) to find what many regard to be Kraków’s most picturesque courtyard. Accessed via an archway, the cobbled courtyard is instantly recognisable from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List, particularly from the other side on ul. Meiselsa, where you’ll find the excellent Mleczarnia cafe/beer garden and the Judaica Foundation at no. 17. When facing the courtyard and beer garden, Plac Nowy - the heart of the district - is again directly to your left. While on your Kazimierz safari do put aside time to visit the Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwór 18, E-6) and Isaac Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6), whose restored interiors now house a permanent exhibition titled ‘In memory of Pol- ish Jews’. In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee was executed inside these halls after refusing to set fire to it. The synagogue is also the source of an enchant- ing legend. It relates to the founder, Isaac, a devout but impoverished Jew who once had a dream telling him if he went to Prague he would discover great treasures buried by a bridge. Following his instincts he set off to Prague, only to find the bridge he had dreamt of surrounded by a garrison of soldiers. Having spotted him loitering, one of the soldiers challenged Isaac as to his intentions. Isaac came clean, only for the soldier to scoff words to the effect of ‘You’re an idiot! I’ve been having dreams all my life about a Kraków Jew called Isaac who has treasure hidden under his stove. But I’m not stupid enough to go to Kraków, especially seeing that every second Jew is called Isaac’. You can guess the rest. The moment Isaac returned home he pulled the stove down and discovered a wealth of riches, making him the richest man in Kazimierz. But Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish. Take for example the stunning Corpus Christi Church on ul. Bożego Ciała (D-6/7). Completed in 1405 the 70 metre tower dominates the horizon, and work through the ages has seen a slew of intricate details added to both the exteriors and interiors. Try and track down the tiny church prison in which sinners who had broken the sixth commandment would be held and subjected to public ridicule. Also of note is a 15th century painting, the Madonna Terribilis Daemonibus. Used in exor- cisms for the last five centuries the canvas is reputed to have warded off a hundred thousand demons. Sticking to the ecclesiastical theme stop by Skałka (C-7). It’s right by the altar that Stanisław, the Bishop of Szczepanów was murdered and then quartered at the whim of King Bolesław the Bold. Stanisław was later beatified, becoming the patron saint of Poland, and it became a tradition for Polish Kings to make the pilgrimage from Wawel to this church in a bid to compensate for the sins of Bolesław. A stone allegedly splattered with the blood of the saint can be viewed close by. Ghouls will also to be delighted to learn of the crypt, one of the most high profile in Kraków. It’s here you’ll find the mortal remains of local heroes Czesław Miłosz and Stanisław Wyspiański. Skałka
  • 51. 100 101 Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Isaac’s Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E-6, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow. pl. Isaac’s Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strik- ingly beautiful of the Kazimierz synagogues, decoratively endowed with arabesques and arches yet retaining a sober linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food, wine and sweets, Jewish calendars and other items. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4zł. New Jewish Cemetery E-6, ul. Miodowa 55. This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no more than memorials to entire families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuve- nation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit candles burning over the headstones. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. OldSynagogue(StaraSynagoga)E-6,ul.Szeroka24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in Polandandishometoafineseriesofexhibitsthatshowcasethe historyandtraditionsofPolishJudaism.Itisnolongeraworking synagogue. The English explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primeronthesubject.Inthemidstofalltheglasscasesstands the bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are also temporary exhibitions held from time to time particularly during the city’s Jewish festival held towards the end of June. The bookshop sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Kraków, in a number of languages. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes beforeclosing.Admission9/7zł,familyticket18zł,Monfree. Y Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga Re- muh z Cmentarzem) E-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. The smallest but most active synagogue in Kazimierz, dating from 1553. Under normal circumstances, if you enter quietly, you may even be afforded a glimpse of a service. Currently however, restoration works mean you’ll need to make an appointment to see the interior or stroll through the cemetery which was in use until 1800. This holy burial ground was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis because many of the gravestones had been buried to avoid desecration during the 19th century occupation of Kraków by Austrian forces. Most famous is the tomb of the 16th century Rabbi Moses Isserles, better known as the Remuh. Beside him lies his wife, Golda Auerbach, in the cemetery’s oldest tomb. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2zł. Temple Synagogue (Synagoga Tempel) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Kazimierz’s newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even held here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival of Culture. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2zł. Museums & Synagogues City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inżynierii Miejskiej)E-7, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 12 42, Evidence that Polish museums are catching up with the modern world, this charming museum insideanoldtramdepotfeaturesfiveseparateexhibitions.The first two deal with the history of public transport in Kraków and the development of the Polish automotive industry through a hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large collection of unique wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of printing in Kraków from the 15th to 20th centuries, while the other two are fun, interactive exhibits aimed at children and families. ‘Around the Circle’ teaches kids fundamental scientific principles via 30 hands-on play stations, and the outdoor ‘Garden Of New Words’ (Ogródek Nowych Słówek) is more like a playground for 3-5 year-olds where they’ll learn first-hand the meaning of words such as gravity (open in nice weather only and closed in autumn/winter). Recommended for families and more fun than it sounds, the science exhibits will hold kids’ interest long enough for Dad to look at car engines, while Mom dreams of escaping on that motorbike. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5.5zł, family ticket 24zł. Y Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne) D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.etno- Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore enthusiast Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside Kazimierz’s former Town Hall, this cultural highlight usu- ally gets overlooked by tourists - wrongfully so. There’s not enough space here to wax lyrical about the delights inside, including beautiful recreations of 19th-century peasant houses, folk costumes, some extraordinary examples of the so-called Nativity Cribs, the breathtaking top floor collection of folk art and two reproduced folk rooms - Izba Podhalańska and Izba Krakowska. With many of the exhibits explained in good English, all we need say is it does a highly commendable job of promoting and explaining Polish folk culture, and can’t come recommended enough. A separate gallery for changing exhibits can be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Galicia Jewish Museum (Żydowskie Muzeum Galicja) E-6, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, The brainchild of award- winning photo-journalist Chris Schwarz, The Galicia Jewish Museum is comprised of some 135 photographs aimed at keeping alive the memory of Jewish life in the south of Poland in the aftermath of the Holocaust. Schwarz’s images of forgot- ten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part of any Kazimierz tour. Though his exhibition serves as the focal point, the converted warehouse also houses temporary exhibits, a café, information point and a bookstore selling a range of titles of Jewish interest. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 30zł. Children under 7 free. Guided tours for groups of over 10 cost 13.50/8zł per person; individual guided tours cost 1h-100zł Tours available in English and German (book in advance for German). Y KAZIMIERZ KAZIMIERZ City Tourist Information D-6, ul. Józefa 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 04 71, Informa- tion on what to see and what’s going on in Kazimierz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 66, Jewish bookshop that also arranges guided Schindler’s List tours and trips to Auschwitz- Birkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Jewish Community (Gmina Wyznaniowa Żydowska)D-7, ul. Skawińska 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11, It has around 160 members and organises events and gatherings for the Jewish community in Kraków. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jewish Community Centre (Centrum Społeczności Żydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www. The headquarters of Kraków’s surviv- ing and strengthening Jewish community. JCC organ- ises numerous events (check website for calendar) and exhibits, arranges tours, and is home to a large library of Jewish related materials. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, This civic and cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierz’s best-kept secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Useful Contacts Father Bernatek Foot- bridge (Kładka Ojca Ber- natka) J-4. September 30, 2010 saw the grand opening of (gasp!) a new footbridge in the city. Not that everyone’s been crying out for one, the brand new Father Bernatek Footbridge (Kładka Ojca Bernatka) straddling the Wisła and linking Kazimierz with Podgórze in the south of the city occupies a site between ul. Mostowa and ul. Budzińskiego where several road bridges have stood in its place before, the last being dismantled way back in 1925. The leaf-shaped, 130m, 700-tonne structure which has been built to accommodate both pedestrians and cyclists was designed by a local company led by the architect Andrzej Getter, coming in slightly over budget at a sobering 30 million złoty, a controversial sum for many Kraków dwellers who believe the money could be spent more wisely and who also object to the name. [The name of the bridge honours a certain Laetus Bernatek (1847-1927), a monk and pharmacist who helped build a hospital in the city among other philanthropic deeds.] Others disagree, seeing the money well spent as part of the continuing revitalisation of both areas at either end. Among the other names bandied about but discarded were ‘Podgórze Footbridge’ and ‘Charles Footbridge’, although local revellers refer to it as the ‘Party Bridge’, a fitting moniker as its presence speeds up the process of getting from the clutch of bars and clubs situated at either end. A second footbridge is planned for the city, although disputes over where exactly to put the thing are ongoing. Father Bernatek Footbridge
  • 52. 103 June - July 102 Kraków In Your Pocket When Spielberg came to Kraków to produce his award- winning film Schindler’s List, the result was a fast and far-reaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Kraków’s former Jewish district. Ironically, how- ever, it didn’t reach across the river to Podgórze, despite the fact most of the film’s historic events took place there, as did much of the filming. As Kazimierz became super- saturated with tourists and bars, predictions were that Podgórze would emerge as Kraków’s next hip bohemian district; however aside from a small stable of rogue cafes, things were slow to develop and for a long time getting off the beaten path in Kraków was as easy as crossing the river to Podgórze. Since the opening of Schindler’s Factory as a major attraction and the construction of the Bernatek footbridge creating a direct artery of tourist traffic into the district, that has begun to change, but Podgórze remains Kraków’s most mysterious and underappreciated neighbourhood. A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual at- tractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgórze date from over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish invasion in the 17th century saw much of Podgórze levelled. Awarded the rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph II, the town was eventually incorporated as Kraków’s fourth district in 1915, and the following decades saw its aggressive development; quarries and brickworks were constructed, and a string of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5) is the only still standing. An indication of Podgórze’s age is Krakus Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it to the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history are what people most associate with the district. On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in Kazimierz were marched across the Powstanców Śląskich bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the Podgórze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, includ- ing a prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (K-4). Liquidated on March 14, 1943, the majority of the Ghetto’s residents were murdered there, while others met death in the nearby Liban quarry and Płaszów concentration camp, or in the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau. The opening of the Schindler’s Factory Museum (K-4, Lipowa 4) has, in addition to helping the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust, finally endorsed Podgórze’s status as a bona fide tourist destination. With plenty to see and do, you could easily spend an entire day exploring Podgórze and a walk up into the hills is not only a great way to get ‘off the beaten path’ - it’s also Kraków’s most evocative area. PODGÓRZEPODGÓRZE Churches St. Benedict’s K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark, daunting trails off ul. Rękawka into the wooded limestone cliffs of Krzemionki to discover one of Kraków’s oldest, small- est and most mysterious churches in the clearing next to the St. Benedict Fort. The date of the present structure has been hard to determine, but the curious site certainly dates back to the 11th century and a leading theory attributes it to the Benedictine monks of Tyniec. Saved from destruction and dereliction by a local priest the tiny, cramped interior - consisting of only a small nave and chancel with a painting of St. Benedict over the pulpit - has been restored, but can only be accessed twice a year: on St. Benedict’s Name Day (July 16th) and, ironically, during the pagan Rękawka festival held the first Tuesday after Easter. St. Joseph’s J-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 56, Presiding over the heart of historic Podgórze on the south side of the district’s main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most beautiful in Kraków and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and visitors should also note the abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping behind the church - all that remains of the original temple, dismantled due to design flaws.QOpen during mass only and by prior arrangement. Museums Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK Muzeum Sztuki Współczesnej w Krakowie) K-4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, Opened on May 20th 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, receiving rave reviews from all who have been thus far. Tucked behind Schindler’s Factory, the building alone will impress with it’s avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus the Mieczysław Porębski Library and its collection of works on art theory and history. Several provocative temporary exhibitions are ever-changing: check their website for details. Despite the relatively late closing hour (19:00), make sure to leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to of- fer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. Places of Interest Bednarski Park J-5, Entrances from ul. Parkowa and ul. Zamojskiego. Opened with great fanfare at the end of the 19th century, the park’s founder Wojciech Bednarski was reportedly carried around like a winning quarterback while newspapers from as far away as St. Petersburg applauded the park’s establishment. Though the park itself doesn’t offer much more than a partially paved path to walk on, this is one of the most beautiful, captivating natural spaces in Kraków with limestone cliffs, over one hundred different species of tree and the remains of an 18th century fortification. Covering eight and half hectares, Bednarski Park is lush and wild with trails winding everywhere, in turns shadowy and chimerical, or open with fine overviews of the city from its various ridges. Fort BenedictK-5, Lasota Hill. The only surviving fortress of three that were built in Podgórze in the mid-19th century to protect the Vistula river and the road to Lwów, Fort Benedict is one of only a few citadels of the ‘Maximillion Tower’ type left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area of 1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedict’s church. The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the 1890s and has since been used as Austrian military barracks and was even converted into apart- ments in the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction, filled with abandonned furniture and building materials. After numerous projects involving the fort failed to develop, care of Fort Benedict has recently been transferred back to the city of Kraków, with plans for its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment, however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding to the scenery and mystique of one of Kraków’s most surprising and strange corners. New Podgórze Cemetery (Cmentarz Podgórski) K-5, ul. Wapienna 13, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 25. Behind Kopiec Krakusa on the Krakus foothills, the New Cemetery is a large, picturesque memorial park filled with monumental sculpture. Opened in 1900, the cemetery originally had a strict Catholic character with a separate designated area for Protes- tants and a distinct section for suicides (marked ‘VIII-a’). Today it continues to grow and is ideal place to visit if you are here on All Souls’ Day (Nov. 1, 2) due to its basin-shape creating an amphitheatre of coloured candlelight. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Old Podgórze Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Podgór- ski)K-5,Corneroful.Limanowskiegoandul.Powstanców Wielopolskich. Podgórze’s primary necropolis for over a hundred years, the Old Podgórze Cemetery is/was the resting place of the formerly independent city’s most distinguished citizens. Established in the late 18th century, the cemetery’s grandarchedgatewayissetbackfromabusyintersectionona hillbehindtheiconicsculptureof‘GodtheFather.’Unfortunately, with the exception of a few, many of the most notable graves havebeenlostduringtheboneyard’sturbulenthistory.Crossing the stone entry, the first grave on the right is the resting place of Edward Dembowski - leader of the 1846 Kraków Uprising, laid to rest here in a collective grave with 28 insurgents shot by the Austrian Army; nearby is the Bednarski family vault, where Wojciech - founder of Podgo’s most beautiful park - reposes. Closeduponreachingcapacityin1900,theGermanslevelleda third of the cemetery during WWII while building a railway. Even moregrievouswasthesite’sreductiontoafractionofitsoriginal size during the construction of al. Powstańców Wielopolskich in the 1970s, when almost all the graves were destroyed or strewn haphazardly about. Like much of the district today, the cemetery’s charm lies in the nostalgic character of its general neglect and vanishing beauty. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Krakus Mound (Ko- piec Krakusa) K-5, above ul. Maryews- kiego. The oldest struc- ture in Kraków, Krakus Mound is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible panoramic views from its worn sum- mit. Sixteen metres high, sixty metres wide at the base and eight metres wide at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands in scruffy contrast to the manicured modern mounds elsewhere in the city, with a muddy path winding around to a bald peak. The site of pagan ritual for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Płaszów, the grim Liban quarry and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Kraków’s least explored and most captivating areas and should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from the major intersection of al. Powstańców Wielopolskich and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstańców Wielopolskich to the base of the mound. The result of great human effort and innovative engineer- ing, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and mystery. Connected with the popular story of Kraków’s mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said to have been constructed in honour of his death when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if there was truth to the legend that Krak was buried be- neath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mound’s prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave was found, however excavations were not completely comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in the lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century, and there is general agreement today that the mound was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century, though other hypotheses credit the structure to the Celts. Originally there were four smaller mounds around the base of Krak’s mound, however these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the construction of the city’s first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda Mound in Mogiła (T-4) - the city’s other, lesser prehistoric earth- work - hardly seems accidental. In addition to being an ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or 21st the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wanda’s Mound; conversely, standing on Wanda’s Mound at dusk, the sun sets in a straight line behind Krak’s Mound. The legend of Krak’s mound inspired the modern creation of burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and today they remain one of Poland’s greatest archaeological mysteries. Krakus Mound St. Benedict’s Church
  • 53. 105 June - July 104 Kraków In Your Pocket from Rynek Podgórski on ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another on the east end of ul. Limanowskiego near its intersection with ul. Rękawka and ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at the intersection of ul. Lwowska and ul. Józefińska (K-4), and another at Plac Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterów Getta, J-4). A tram initially ran through the ghetto, and though it made no stops, food and other valuable commodities frequently found their way into the ghetto via its windows. Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto, and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate, most notably Tadeusz Pankiewicz’s Apteka Pod Orłem on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked outside the ghetto, particularly in the Zabłocie industrial district, which included Oskar Schindler’s enamelware factory at ul. Lipowa 4 (K-4). Deportations Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews of the Kraków region - not just the city centre - to move to the Podgórze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages around Małopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000 people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what else to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to their families in the Kraków Ghetto. JEWISH GHETTOPODGÓRZE Ghetto Wall Fragments K-5, ul. Limanowskiego 69. An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of the area should climb the steep trail leading from the back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgórze Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned Fort Benedict. Ghetto Wall Fragments K-4, ul. Lwowska 25-29. Kraków’s most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this 12-metre stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983, a com- memorative plaque was raised, which reads in Hebrew and Polish: “Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the German torturers. From here they began their final journey to the death camps.” Starmach Gallery (Former Zucher Synagogue) J-4, ul. Węgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www. Built between 1879-1881, this unique brick building was one of four former prayer houses within the area of the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6 and 7 on the very same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa 7. Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans during the war (though it continued in secret) and the synagogue was converted into a warehouse and then a factory. When the ghetto was established, many valuable religious artefacts from Kazimierz synagogues were transferred here for protection, however the eventual liquidation of the ghetto guaranteed that they were looted and lost. After the war the building slowly fell into dereliction until Andrzej and Teresa Starmach rescued it in 1996, restoring the facade and turn- ing it into one of the largest and most renowned private art galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding and a visit is highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square, formerly ‘Plac Zgody’) J-4. First plot- ted out in 1836, this public square just across the river from the Powstańców Śląskich bridge has had a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over the years. During the time of the Kraków Ghetto it was at once the source of the residents’ greatest relief and also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation. As the ghetto’s largest open space, Plac Zgody was a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the op- pressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and other belongings that the victims had been forced to abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and a small monument was erected, the space’s historical significance never felt more pertinent than its post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterów Getta was renovated in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the design. Nonetheless, today it is perhaps the most iconic place in Podgórze. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially been turned into an evocative memorial to the victims of the Kraków Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection was also added within the small, former bus terminal building at the north end of the square, however it still goes sadly ignored (see if you can do something about that). During the war, Plac Bohaterów Getta 6 was the regular meeting point of the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB), as noted by a plaque on the front of the building. Kraków’s Jewish underground resistance orchestrated acts of sabotage outside the ghetto, with their greatest success coming in December 1942 when a grenade detonated inside the Cyganeria Café - a popular meet- ing place for Nazi officers on ul. Szpitalnia - killing and wounding several Germans. Plac Bohaterów Getta 18 - on the south side of the square at the corner of ul. Targowa - was the site of Pankiewicz’s famous Apteka Pod Orłem, now a branch of the Kraków History Museum with exhibits depicting life in the ghetto. Every year on the Sunday following the March 14th liquidation of the ghetto, a remembrance parade honouring the victims sets off from Plac Bohaterów Getta to the Holocaust monument on the site of the former Płaszów camp. Plac Bohaterów Getta Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orłem) J-4, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, When the Nazis created the Jew- ish ghetto in Podgórze in 1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterów Getta and its Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and over the two years of the ghetto’s existence, Apteka Pod Orłem became an important centre of social life as well as aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsi- fied documents and avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as one of the ‘Righteous Among the Nations’) and his staff risked their lives in many clan- destine operations while bearing witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately ‘liquidated.’ Today the building is a branch of the Kraków Historical Museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupa- tion, which through traditional and multimedia displays, and extensive testimonials from both Poles and Jews, heartrendingly describes life in the Kraków Ghetto. In- formation is displayed inside the chests and cupboards of the pharmacy, and visitors are encouraged to handle dozens of replica artefacts and reprinted photographs, heightening the reality of the events described and creat- ing a very intimate visiting experience. Though compris- ing only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent museum. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before clos- ing. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Mon free. Y Pharmacy Under the Eagle Zygmunt Put/Wikipedia/CC-BY-SA 3.0 Kraków has always been regarded as the cultural centre of Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews - one quarter of the city’s total population - who enjoyed the city’s relatively tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish community began almost immediately following German occupation in early September 1939, however. Despite an increasing series of regulations restricting the civil rights and personal freedom of Jews, more and more were arriving in Kraków from the rest of PL in the hope of finding safety amidst the city’s dense community. In October 1939, the Nazis registered 68,482 Jews in Kraków. Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940, Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the ‘General Government’ (the part of German-occupied PL that was not directly incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of Kraków’s Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of the General Government to be a “Jew-free city.” As a result of resettlement in late 1940, Kraków’s Jewish population was reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain the economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly deported, largely to labour camps in the east. Establishment On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wächter, Governor of the Kraków district, decreed the establishment of a new ‘Jewish Housing District’ on the right bank of the Wisła River in the district of Podgórze. What would become known as the ‘Kraków’ or ‘Podgórze Ghetto’ initially comprised an approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two- story buildings in Podgórze’s historic centre bound by the river and the Krzemionki hills to the north and south, and between the Kraków-Płaszów rail line and Podgórze’s market square to the east and west. In the 17 days between the ghetto’s es- tablishment and the March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline, approximately 3,000 original residents of the district were relocated across the river to be replaced by some 16,000 Jews, whose property and possessions were confiscated with the exception of what they could carry into the ghetto. Thousands of unregistered Jews also illegally entered the ghetto seeking protection, bringing the total population of the Kraków Ghetto to about 18,000. Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one apartment allocated for every four families and an average of two square metres of living space per person. Windows facing ‘Aryan’ Podgórze were bricked or boarded up to prevent contact with the outside world and a 3 metre high wall was erected around the confines of the ghetto, crowned with arches con- scientiously designed to resemble Jewish tombstones. Four guarded entrance gates accessed the ghetto - the main gate Main gate into the ghetto from Rynek Podgórski, 1941 Fragments of the ghetto wall at the playground on ul. Limanowskiego.
  • 54. 107 June - July 106 Kraków In Your Pocket PŁASZÓWJEWISH GHETTO It’s hard to go anywhere in Poland without being reminded of one of the darkest chapters in the history of humanity, and Kraków, for all of its beautiful and intoxicating diversions, really shouldn’t be any different. While hundreds of tourists use Kraków as a jumping-off point for visiting Auschwitz- Birkenau, few seem to realise that Kraków actually has a former concentration camp in its own backyard. Across the river, deep in Podgórze, a large the tract of land goes undeveloped and largely unvisited, despite being in one of the city’s most desirable commercial and residential areas - alongside a major thoroughfare (ul. Wielicka), across from the city’s largest shopping mall (Bonarka City Centre) and a short walk from a major tourist attraction (Krakus Mound), no less. This is the former site of the Plaszów concentration camp, today an expansive field of uneven terrain covered in grass, weeds, stones and a story that is hardly broached upon its own hallowed grounds. If you think you aren’t familiar with it, well actually, you are. It was here that the real-life events of one of the most well-known Holocaust stories - brought into popular consciousness by Steven Spielberg’s blockbuster film Schindler’s List - took place. When Schindler’s enamel factory (K-4) opened to the public as a museum in 2010 it gave the city a place to tell that story and address its own history under Nazi occupation. The site of the former Płaszów concentration camp itself, however, remains largely as it was when the Nazis abandoned it close to 70 years ago. In contrast to Auschwitz there are no professional tour guides here, no informative displays, no hand holding, no sugges- tions on how to experience the space - simply a poorly sign-posted place of reflection. A challenge to access even on foot, those intrepid enough to make the journey will find few places of interest aside from a couple buildings that hide their history, a few memorials and an impressive monument to the victims who perished here. In that sense Płaszów is more of a pilgrimage than a destination, and rewards those who walk its obscure paths with the opportunity to engage the past without any pressure or pretence. This is the most horrific place in Kraków; and the most peaceful. History Before World War II Kraków was home to some 65,000 Jews, who under Nazi occupation beginning in September 1939 faced almost immediate persecution. Under the directive of Nazi commander Hans Frank, ‘resettlement’ (largely to labour camps in the east) began in late 1940 and by the time of the establishment of the Kraków Ghetto in March 1941, their numbers had been reduced to some 16,000 individu- als crammed into a 20 hectare (50 acre) space in Podgórze, across the river from the Jewish district of Kazimierz (for more on the Kraków Ghetto see our online feature). In early 1942 the Nazis began to initiate Hitler’s ‘Final Solution’ for the annihilation of European Jewry, ramping up terror in the Kraków Ghetto with increased round-ups, deportations and street executions that resulted in the gradual reduction of the size and population of the ghetto. At the same time, the building of the Płaszów camp (which would precipitate the ghetto’s liquidation) was underway on the other side of the Krzemionki hills which overlooked the ghetto. Only four kilometres from Kraków’s market square, the site was chosen for its proximity to a handy railroad sta- tion, existing labour camp in the nearby quarry (see Liban, Podgórze Sightseeing) and its convenient location on top of two Jewish cemeteries - the old Jewish cemetery at ul. Jero- zolimska 25, and new Jewish cemetery at ul. Abrahama 3, the latter of which had just been established ten years prior and included an absolutely immaculate two wing pre-burial hall with three cupolas. This monumental building was retained and used by the Germans as a horse stable and pigsty throughout the life of the camp, however both cemeteries were levelled with the shattered tombstones used to cobble the lanes of the camp and whole tombstones used as pavers to create the main road. This was a typical Nazi practise for further humiliating their victims. First established as a forced labour camp in the summer of 1942, Płaszów soon became a favoured execution site for the Nazis as cattle cars full of children, the elderly and infirm were sent from the ghetto only to be systematically murdered and fill mass graves at the camp. Built with the sweat of slave labour, from autumn 1942 all those deemed ‘fit to work’ commuted every day from the ghetto to participate in the construction of their future prison and from January 1943 many no longer returned to the ghetto, but stayed in the unfinished camp barracks. When Amon Goeth arrived to take over as Płaszów camp commandant he wasted little time, speeding construction of the camp and liquidating the Kraków Ghetto only a month later. On March 13th and 14th, 1943, some 6,000 Jews (some accounts claim as many as 8,000) were permanently transported from the ghetto to Płaszów; 3,000 were sent by cattle car directly to the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau and some 1,000-2,000 (accounts vary) others were shot in the street, their bodies later transported to Płaszów and buried in mass graves. After Goeth’s arrival, and coinciding with the organised implementation of the camp system across Eastern Europe, Płaszów developed rapidly, becoming a destination for many Jews and political prisoners from southern Poland and beyond. Conditions were abysmal; following the liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto the average barracks contained 150 inmates in a space of about 80 metres, and by the summer of 1943 the number of inmates had ballooned from a mere Due to its size and the fact that there is no prescribed route, there are several ways to get to the territory of the former Płaszów camp. If you have a car you can drive around to the southern side of the camp and park on the side of the road across from Castorama on ul. Henryka Kamienskiego within view of the ‘Memorial of Torn-Out Hearts.’ It is also possible to park on the eastern side by driving up ul. Wielicka, turning right onto ul. Jerozolimska (K-5) and parking near the ‘Grey House.’ Without a car, the most straight-forward approach is to take tram numbers 3, 6, 9, 13, 23, 24, 50 or 69 and get off at the ‘Cmentarz Podgórski’ stop. Walk a couple blocks down ul. Wielicka in the same direction the tram was travelling and make a right onto ul. Jerozolimska (K-5). This will take you to the ‘Grey House’ on the east side of the camp (10mins total). Getting There Płaszów concentration camp at its height in 1944. Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the Nazis began to initiate ‘The Final Solution’ - Hitler’s systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry. May 29th 1942 was the first of ten days of terror within the Kraków Ghetto as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all documents were inspected. Those who couldn’t produce proper work permits were assembled on Plac Zgody before being transferred to Płaszów rail station, loaded into cattle cars in groups of 120, and sent to Bełżec death camp in eastern PL. Unsatisfied by the initial numbers, the Germans continued their arbitrary round-ups for days. One June 6th all previous documents were declared invalid and ghetto occupants were required to apply for a new ‘Blauschein’ or Blue Pass; those that were denied likewise met their deaths in Bełżec, including popular poet and songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig and renowned painter Abraham Neuman. By the end of the action, 7,000 Jews had been sent to their deaths, and many more simply shot in the streets. Two weeks later the area of the ghetto was reduced almost by half to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and demarcated by barbed wire. The increased density of the population and increasing brutality of the Germans set off a wave of suicides, but worse was to come. Work was also beginning on the nearby Płaszów labour camp, which would eventually portend the end of the ghetto. In October the Germans announced that the ghetto would be consolidated again and selections began anew, with no regard toward employment status, age or health. Sources differ on the exact numbers, but at least another 4,500 victims were sent to Bełżec and some 600 were shot inside the ghetto. Many children, orphans and sick people were sent to the newly established Płaszów labour camp, only to be murdered. Afterwards the area east of Plac Zgody ceased to be part of the ghetto, and a month later the remaining ter- ritory was divided into two sections: Ghetto A was reserved for the healthiest, most able-bodied residents, and Ghetto B for those less desirable and destined for deportation. Residents of Ghetto A began commuting daily to work on the construction of Płaszów labour camp, and after Amon Goeth arrived in Kraków as its new Camp Commandant the pace of the camp’s development hastened the ghetto’s demise. Liquidation As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to Płaszów, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000 Jews (some sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were immediately transported to Płaszów; residents of Ghetto B and all children under 14 were ordered to assemble on Plac Zgody the next day. Despite likely knowing what lay in store, many mothers stayed behind when Ghetto A was liquidated, refusing to abandon their children. March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgórze’s history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of it - was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape were shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets (some estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the barbed wire. The Kraków Ghetto disappeared leaving almost as little trace as the Jews who lived there. Liban Quarry J/K-5, ul. Za Torem. One of the creepi- est, most forgotten places in Kraków, the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here during Kraków’s WWII occupation. That said, the sight lies in overgrown abandon today, slowly becoming a nature sanctuary for waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and other various creatures (we’ve even seen an unattended horse grazing here) as the city seems to have forgotten it completely. Incredible limestone cliffs, ponds and dense vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery equipment, fenceposts, gravestones and tangles of barbedwirethatcanstillbefoundamongstthebrushhere. The limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis,’ run by two well-known Jewish industrial families from Podgórze, established a quarry here in 1873. By the end of the 19th century a complex of buildings was established within the quarry and a railway line laid as the families enjoyed an excellent reputation locally and abroad. However, during Nazi occupation, Liban was set-up as a cruel penal camp where 800 young Poles were kept prisoner from 1942 to 1944 performing forced labour. A small, discreet, overgrown and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site. In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the Płaszów concentration camp. Not wanting to use the nearby site of the camp itself out of respect, it must have taken little imagination on his part to settle upon Liban. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fenceposts strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly, the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved with Jewish headstones, which we can put you at ease by assuring you is not genuine. An incredibly evocative, yet peaceful and beautiful site, Liban allows you to ex- plore Kraków’s World War II history on your own terms, interpreting it as you like without the hand-holding of history books or tourist bureaus. Enter the quarry at your own risk by following a trail from Krak’s Mound toward Podgórze cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is noth- ing unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the quarry’s entrance have been known to aggravatedly deny entry or ask people to leave. Liban Quarry Allie_Caulfield
  • 55. 108 109 Kraków In Your Pocket June - July PŁASZÓWPŁASZÓW 2,000 before the liquidation to over 12,000. At the camp’s height in 1944 it is estimated that there were 25,000 prisoners interred within the camp, which covered some 81 hectares (200 acres) surrounded by four kilometres of electrified barbed wire. Twelve watchtowers equipped with machine guns and spotlights guarded the camp. As the camp expanded, separate living quarters were estab- lished for the men and women, Poles and Jews, as well as an administrative sector for the SS officers. Other features of the camp included a large roll call square, hospital, mess hall, isolation cells, stables, bathhouse, bakery and the various workshopswhereinmatesworkedextremelylonghourswithout rest or enough food to stave off starvation. In addition to the many on-site workshops, inmates also provided free labour to several local factories, Oskar Schindler’s enamelware factory inPodgórzeamong them. Slave labourornot, havingsucha job (which provided a small amount of security to many Jews who were quite skilled) was certainly preferable to not having one, and immensely better than working in one of the two limestone quarries located at Plaszów, which was essentially a death sentence. Many women were also employed in the quarries, haulingcartsofstonealongtheraillinesthathadbeenlaidwithin thecamp;theaveragelifeexpectancyforquarryworkerswasa merematterofweeks.Prisonersalsofaceddeathfromdisease (typhusandmalariawererampantinthecamp),starvation,and the cruelty of their captors. The Płaszów camp and its staff, led byAmonGoethwhotookpleasureinarbitrarilymurderingthein- mates,madethemselvesfamousfortheirsadistictreatmentof thecamp’sprisoners.PersonalaccountsfromPłaszówportray Goeth as a mass murderer instructing his staff to make sport out of the suffering and execution of the inmates. From January 1944, Płaszów was officially designated as an independent concentration camp with satellite camps estab- lished in Wieliczka and Mielec. Jews from smaller camps and ghettos that were being liquidated across Poland, Czechoslo- vakia, Hungary and Romania were sent to Płaszów, however many of them never made it inside the camp. Covered trans- port trucks full of Jews arrived several times a week and were taken directly to one of two mass execution sites where the condemned were shot, thrown into a mass grave and covered in dirt, layer upon layer. Plans to install a crematorium at the camp were drawn but never developed, with the efficiency of Auschwitz-Birkenau in this regard - to which many transports from Płaszów were sent - likely being a factor. Calculating the number of people who lost their lives at the camp is impossible; a rough estimate of the number of prisoners interred here over its short history would be in the neighbourhood of 150,000, but Nazi records fail to give us anything more than a speculative guess. Liquidation of the camp began in early January 1945, with the last prisoners leaving on death marches to Auschwitz; those who reached it were killed in the gas chambers immediately upon arrival. As the Soviet Army approached Kraków the camp was completely dismantled (including the Jewish pre-burial hall), the primary mass graves were exhumed, the bodies burned and the ashes spread over the site. What the Soviets saw upon arrival largely resembles what visitors will see when visiting the former grounds of the camp today - a barren field. Approximately 2,000 Poles and Jews who passed through Płaszów are known to have survived the war; 1,000 of these were the ‘Schindler Jews’ who escaped from Kraków to Brunnlitz before the war’s end. What To See Today almost nothing remains of the complex and sprawl- ing concentration camp, which covered over 80 hectares in Płaszów - today a district of Podgórze. In comparison to other Nazi prison camps, Płaszów was extremely well dismantled and has since been the subject of almost no historical ex- cavations or on-site documentation. Those private homes which were commandeered by the Nazis and incorporated into the camp were returned to their owners after the war and today sit on the fringes of the former camp as inauspi- ciously as any other house in the area. On one part of the former camp grounds an apartment block has been built. As a result it is very difficult to imagine what the camp may have looked like during the war. Visitors are left to their own imaginations and private thoughts while walking through the grounds, keeping their eyes peeled for traces of the past and the few monuments scattered about. Though difficult to find (without our help), several points of interest do exist, and we encourage visitors to make the walk from the north side of the camp to the large, easily visible monument to its victims on the southern side, taking in as many of these sites as possible en route. As you do, of course, bear in mind that though the area looks like nothing more than a neglected public park, this is actually a sacred place of remembrance. In addition to whatever remains exist from the two Jewish cemeteries once located on this site, it is estimated that the remains of 8,000-10,000 Płaszów prisoners are still located within the immediate area of the camp grounds. As a few obscure signs (the only evidence of city acknowledgement of the camp, aside from a few monuments) near the edges of the former camp clearly state: “Please respect the grievous history of this site.” The North End of the Camp If we approach the camp from ul. Jerozolimska (K-5, see Getting There), we have the greatest chance of seeing the most points of interest. This was also the main entrance into the camp, leading as it does from near the Kraków-Płaszów train station (L-5) to some of the limestone deposits the in- mates were forced to quarry. At the corner of ul. Jerozolimska and ul. Abrahama (which turns from a paved road between the apartments blocks into a dirt trail leading into the camp) we can feel that we are now inside the former camp, and a sign across the road tells us as much. On this corner at ul. Jerozolimska 3 stands the infamous ‘Grey House’, used as a prison and torture chamber by the SS during the camp’s existence. Turning right onto ul. Abrahama, which once ran through the middle of the camp, you’ll find a small monu- ment only about 20 metres from the Grey House. Though not directly related to the camp (which was yet to be built), this memorial remembers the site where 13 Poles were murdered by the Nazis on September 10th, 1939 - the first mass execution of WWII in Kraków. Across the path to the left we may be able to see the camp’s limestone deposits and even find the entrances to three anti-aircraft shelters carved into the rock by prisoners. A recently paved path to the right leads to another monument close behind Grey House, this one with a roof to protect it, and also not related to the camp (notice the trend), but to the Jewish Cemetery that formerly stood here. This new tombstone marks the burial place of Sara Schenirer, founder of the Beth Jacob School - the first religious school for girls in Kraków (1917), which became a model for Jewish schools all over Poland in her time (over 300 before she died in 1935), and for many schools in Israel, the US and elsewhere today. Following the worn footpath straight back from here (away from ul. Abrahama), about 25 metres away is a grove of trees where close inspection reveals extensive piles of concrete rubble that were once the Podgórze Jewish Cemetery’s mag- nificent pre-burial hall. Built in 1932, part of the hall was detonated by Goeth to amuse his company one night, while the rest was dismantled at the end of the war. Amazingly, there is still one surviving tombstone from the Podgórze Jewish Cemetery, and those determined to find it can at- tempt to do so, but it isn’t easy. Head left/due west from the ruins of the pre-burial hall until you get beyond the trees. Keep going another 15 metres from there and you should be able to pick up a trail heading north (to your right) that will take you directly to the site of the only other visible evidence of the forgotten Jewish cemetery (about 30 metres). Chaim Jakub Abrahamer, laid to rest in 1932, has the distinction of the only surviving headstone, surrounded by the anonymous foundations of other graves. Turn around and you can follow this faint trail all the way back to the Grey House. The South End of the Camp From the intersection where the Grey House stands, we now cross ul. Abrahama and continue up ul. Heltmana (the continuation of ul. Jerozolimska). This residential street was known as ‘SS-strasse’ during the war for it was here that the Nazi officers lived, including camp commandant Amon Goeth at number 22, known as the ‘Red House.’ You can see the back of the house by making a detour onto ul. Lecha, and if we follow it to the end and make a left onto the dirt trail there it will lead us to Hujowa Górka. One of the camp’s mass execution sites, it was here that the Nazis later exhumed the bodies of 10,000 Jews and burned them to hide their crimes. The name is a vulgar bit of Polish word play taken from the name of the SS officer who ordered the first executions here (Albert Hujar) and the Polish word for the male member; a print-friendly translation would be ‘Prick’s Hill.’ Today the site is marked by a modest wooden cross with a crown of thorns, surrounded by a few benches. From here you can see the large stone monument, which stands atop Płaszów’s other main execution yard. Towering over not only the camp, but also the highway towards which it unfortunately faces, this monolithic Soviet-era monument is known as the ‘Memorial of Torn-Out Hearts.’ Designed by Witold Cęckiewicz and unveiled in 1964, the inscription reads, “To the memory of the martyrs murdered by the Nazi perpetrators of genocide in the years 1943-45.” Near its base are two other monuments: to the left, a low-lying plaque remembering the Hungarian Jewish women processed in Płaszów on their way to Auschwitz; to the right, a stone obelisk commemorating all the Jewish victims of the camp. The last line of the long text reads, “In memory of those murdered, whose final scream of anguish is the silence of this Płaszów graveyard.” The ‘Grey House’ Zygmunt Put, Wikipedia CC BY-SA 3.0 The ‘Red House’ Zygmunt Put, Wikipedia CC BY-SA 3.0 Memorial of Torn-Out Hearts. Photo: Paweł Krzan, krzan. pl, Hujowa Górka Raduz, Wikipedia CC BY 3.0
  • 56. 111 June - July 110 Kraków In Your Pocket SALWATORSALWATOR Being that Salwator has always been Kraków’s most green, ancient and affluent district, it’s a bit of a wonder why more people don’t visit. Having done the hard but rewarding work of researching this seldom written about area, however, we’re happy to roll out the red carpet. Certainly the area’s main attraction is the stunning Kościuszko Mound and surrounding fortifications, but the scenic ascent to the mound is almost as pleasant as the earthwork itself and makes a perfect escape from the sometimes frenetic bustle of the city centre. Essentially comprising one long, virtually traffic-less, tree-lined avenue flanked by ancient churches, atmospheric cemeteries and grand villas - which begins at the city’s largest sacral complex and summits atop the city’s most magnificent overlook - Salwator should hold plenty of enchantment for visitors. What to See A perfect warm-weather expedition, exploring Salwator is more of a leisure activity than a sightseeing excursion, with its appeal lying in strolling shady lanes and taking in scenic views more than studying historical exhibits (though there’s the chance for that too). Picturesquely perched on the western fringe of the city-centre, well-removed from the tourist track, the small district of Salwator officially occupies St. Bronisława’s Hill in the district of Zwierzyniec, which rises above the Old Town between the Wisła River and the Rudawa - one of its tributaries. As such, a journey to Salwator starts at their confluence and the majestic Norbertine Monastery (G/H-4) - Kraków’s largest sacral complex. Consecrated way back at the end of the 12th century, the Norbertine Sisters of this immaculate convent were the first female religious congregation in Poland and once held much sway and influ- ence over the area. Until as recently as 1910, when Kraków’s mayor snatched and incorporated the territory into the city proper, the Sisters of St. Norbert owned the whole area of Salwator and surrounding Zwierzyniec. Before that time the Norbertine complex extended across ul. Kościuszko and, in addition to the convent’s Church of St. Augustine and John the Baptist, also included the two churches found at the foot of St. Bronislawa’s Hill (on the street of the same name). On the left side of ul. Św. Bronisławy (G-3) stands the small and unique Chapel of Saint Margaret, which is included on the Małopolska Wooden Architecture Route, while on the right is the hoary Church of the Holy Saviour. Continue up ul. Św. Bronisławy (as it turns into Al. Waszyn- gtona) about 500 metres on the left and you’ll arrive at the Salwator Cemetery - perhaps Kraków’s most picturesque necropolis. However, as you’re en route, don’t miss taking a quick look at the villas on ul. Gontyna (G-3) - a small looping alley off the main lane. Though the name ‘Salwator’ has more recently been applied to much of the surrounding district of Zwierzyniec (for marketing reasons), it originally referred strictly to this small ‘Garden City’ of 30 villas built to much hullaballoo after a 1910 design competition. One of Kraków’s most exclusive residential streets, ul. Gondyna has been home to many local luminaries and celebrities, and its villas are also no stranger to architecture textbooks. The highlight of the bunch (for us at least) is the manor on the right-hand crescent with a large bust of wild-haired Medusa on the facade. Perhaps those penetrating eyes are the same that filled Salwator Cemetery (G-3) with an unusually great number of statues and stone effigies. Continue up this avenue lined with ancient trees to where it bears right and you’re at the foot of the Kościuszko Mound and fortifications (F-3), one of Kraków’s most unique at- tractions. While you’re at the top, take a turn away from the Old Town for a moment and you’ll see the rolling expanse of Wolski Forest (Las Wolski) with the Camaldolese Monastery and Piłsudski Mound peaking out of the trees to the west. The road that lead you this far will also take you deep enough to find these further Zwierzyniec sights, as well as Kraków’s Zoo, but bear in mind that you could easily spend an additional day just hiking throughout this scenic woodland. Norbertine Monastery G/H-4, ul. Kościuszki 88, tel. (+48) 12 427 13 18, Founded by the once-powerful Premonstratensian Sisters of Saint Norbert’s in 1148, this fortified monastery has been destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout the centuries, seemingly irresistible to the marauding Tartar hordes whose proficiency at razing architectural marvels has been well noted by history. The structures seen today within the monastery’s many courtyards and high, crenulated walls were rebuilt at the turn of the 17th century and the interiors date to the 18th century. The baroque Church of St. Augustine and John the Baptist (open during mass only) can be entered through the 13thcenturyRomanesqueportalbeneaththetowerorthrough the outer courtyard. There have been two sisters canonised from the Cracovian order of Norbertine Sisters, Saint Emilia Podoska and Saint Bronisława - renowned for her righteous- ness. Some of Kraków’s most important traditions are also connected with the monastery: here and along the banks of the Rudawa the Emmaus festival has been celebrated every year since the 12th century on the Monday after Easter (April 1st, 2013). It is also from here that the Lajkonik procession - the foremost symbol of Kraków - sets off each year in June, due no doubt to the convent’s magnetism towards Tartars. Chapel of St. Margaret (Kaplica św. Małgorzaty) G-3, ul. Św. Bronisławy 8, tel. (+48) 12 424 43 60, This unique octagonal chapel is one of only three wooden temples left in Kraków. Originally built as a cemetery chapel, throughout its long history it was burned many times (wonder how that happened?) with its present structure having been built in 1690. In ironic, yet typi- cal, contrast to the pre-Slavic pagan god of the wind named ‘Poświst’ who once stood at this site, today you’ll find a statue of Pope John Paul II erected in 2008. The baroque 17th cen- tury altar within the charming chapel was borrowed from the Church of the Holy Saviour just across the street (G-3). Q Open during mass only from April to October when services are held on the first and third Sundays of those months. ChurchoftheHolySaviour(KościółNajświętszego Salwatora)G-3,ul.Św.Bronisławy9,www.parafiasalwa- One of Kraków’s oldest and most modestly beautiful churches, the Church of the Holy Savior stands atop a former early Slavic temple. In fact, archaeologists have dated this site as far back as the 10th century and some have even posited that it may be the first Catholic site in all of Poland. First men- tioned in writing back in 1148, you might be familiar with its historysincethen:burned,rebuilt,burned,rebuilt,burned,rebuilt in the 17th century as you see it today. The age of the site can bemostfeltintheinteriorwhichincludespreciousfrescoesfrom theearly16thcentury.Surroundingthechurchisasmall,scenic cemetery, including a wall-tomb for the Sisters who maintained it and an old gravedigger’s cottage. QOpen during mass only. Salwator Cemetery (Cmentarz Salwatorski) G-3, Al. Waszyngtona 1. This intimate, hill-side graveyard was ordained in 1865 and offers fantastic views of the Wisła. Perhaps the sanctuary’s most famous daisy-pusher is one of its most recent tenants - popular sci-fi author Stanisław Lem, put to earth here in 2006. Q Open from dawn till dusk. Kościuszko Mound (Kopiec Kościuszki) F-3, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 09, www.ko- History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the pure a son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing Polish authorities demanded his body be sent from Switzerland to be interred in the Wawel Royal Crypts. Such was the country’s love of Kościuszko that the people proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak and Wanda - and to make it the grandest in Kraków. With the approval of the Nor- bertine Sisters who granted the land, city authorities began developing an artificial burial mound to be constructed atop Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec. When construction began there was no lack of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held, followed by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts from Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed - as well as soil from his many battlefields, including those in America - before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages from all over Poland brought soil from their homes and villages to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound stands 34 metres high, 326 metres above sea level. A boul- der from the Tatra Mountains, which on a clear day can be seen on the horizon from the top of the mound, was placed at the top with the inscription, ‘Kościuszce’ (‘To Kościuszko’). In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities took over the territory of Zwierzyniec and went to building a brick fortress encircling the Mound with intent to use the location as astrategiclookoutpoint.DemolishingachapelofSt.Bronisława at the site, the Austrians, in their gentility, built a new chapel, incorporating it into the stronghold. Quite contrarily, the Ger- manslaterthreatenedtodemolishtheMoundandsurrounding fortifications during their WWII occupation as they set about destroying all Polish monuments and national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed,theMoundsurvivedthewarbetterthanthecountry’s population, 16% of which were casualties of Nazi and Soviet bloodshed. Today the fortress has been rebuilt and significant engineering improvements have been made to the Mound to ensure its longevity, including a vital drainage system. Climbing to the peak is exhausting work, but the panoramic views of Kraków are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic Chapel of St. Bronisława, which contains a medley of objects connected to Kościuszko’s life, can also be visited and the surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a radio station, restaurant, wax museum and five additional historical exhibitions. Admission is included with the mound to all exhibits and the hours are also the same, except for two exhibits: ‘Cracovian Mounds,’ and ‘Kościuszko - The First Chapter’ (Open 09:30 - 19:00).QMound open daily from 09:00 - 21:00; exhibitions 09:30 - 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing Admission 11/9zł. Lying just west of the Old Town, Salwator is about a twenty-five minute walk from the main market square and can be easily accessed by taking trams 1, 2 or 6 to their terminus at the Salwator roundabout (H-3). Alternatively, surefooted or cycling sightseers can follow the recreational path along the Wisła River from Wawel Castle to the Norbertine Monastery, where it ends at the Rudawa tributary. Bear in mind that the path up Saint Bronisława’s Hill to Kościuszko Mound is a slight grade 1.6 kilometres in length and may be uncomfortable for anyone awaiting a hip replacement. It is possible to drive to the foot of the mound, but making the journey on foot or by bike is certainly the recommended method for those with fine weather who are feeling up to the task. Getting There As with most ancient Cracovian landmarks, there are a fair few legends associated with the Norbertine Mon- astery (G/H-4, ul. Kościuszki 88). The first is to do with Saint Bronisława herself, who after being visited by the Holy Spirit and warned of an impending Tartar attack (which back in those days was a bit like having the Lord tell you that the sun was going to come up tomorrow), managed to rally the Sisters to safety in the adjacent hills which now bear her name. The monastery was of course destroyed and Saint Bronisława spent the rest of her days mending the spirits of those sceptical of a God that would send Tartars to burn their homes every damn weekend. She died in 1259. Another legend regards the Norbertine Cathedral bell and its mournful, murky tone. Story goes that between attacks by the Tartar hordes, a punishing storm struck the area destroying a nearby ferry crossing. As the Good Sisters lay dreaming of the swift new boat they would soon put in the water, they were awoken by the Tartar alarm (something like a cat being strangled) to witness all the merchants of Zwierzyniec hastening to the ferry crossing to escape the mounted brutes hot on their heels. Finding no such ferry all the merchants were skewered or drowned in the Wisła River, except for one who could swim apparently. To honour his extinct people, the lonely merchant commissioned a bell for the tower of the Sisters’ ravaged monastery. After several failed attempts to cast the bell, the bell-maker took his own life ashamed of the crack that kept appearing on its surface. Sans bell-maker, the Sisters accepted the flawed bell interpreting it as a symbol of the fractured lives of those it was meant to remember. Once erected atop the chapel tower, the Tartars swiftly arrived to toss the bell into the river (those jerks!). Legend claims that each year on St. John’s Night (June 23rd) the sunken, beleaguered bell can be heard tolling its Tartar-cursing chime until midnight when the clock on the Market Square sounds. Norbertine Legends Komitet Kopca Kościuszki
  • 57. 113NOWA HUTA June - July 112 Kraków In Your Pocket LAS WOLSKI The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis of everything cuddly Kraków is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other beingMagnitogorskinRussia’sUralMountains),andoneofthe finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world. Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of Kościelniki (as well as parts of Mogiła and Krzesławice) in an attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intel- lectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Kraków. The decision to build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over the next few yearsconstructionofamodelcityfor100,000peoplesprungup atbreakneckspeed.Builttoimpress,NowaHutafeaturedwide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Huta’s architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspira- tion coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New York(thatdespicablewesternmetropolis).Carefulplanningwas key,andthesuburbwasdesignedwith‘efficientmutualcontrol’ in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a fortress if it came under attack. Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was Nowa Huta was never fully realized. A fearsome town hall in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland was never built, nor was the theatre building across from it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added. However what was completed is very much worth the trip for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of Kraków; it’s as easy as a tramride. What To See Jump off a tram at Plac Centralny and find yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central Square is a masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the brainchild of architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of irony, this Soviet landmark which once bore Stalin’s name was officially re-designated ‘Ronald Reagan Square’ in 2004, though speak to any local and you’ll still find it referred to as Pl. Centralny. While this ‘square’ serves as the focal point for visitors, it’s the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1, T-2) that Nowa Huta is known for, not to mention named after. As Poland rebuilt itself from near complete destruction after WWII, steel was of vital importance. Work began in April 1950, and by 1954 the first blast furnace was in operation. Employing some 40,000 people in its heyday the Steelworks - named for a time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven million tonnes of steel annually, and at one time boasted the largest blast furnace in Europe. Such was its reputation that Fidel Castro chose to visit the Steelworks rather than Kraków’s Rynek on one state visit to Poland. Found on the end of al. Solidarności the entrance to what is known as the Sendzimir Steelworks has been given the full socialist makeover, with two concrete monstrosities built to echo the fine old buildings of Poland. You’ll hear the natives referring to this architectural masterstroke as ‘the Vatican,’ poking fun at the grandeur it was meant to emulate. Ironically, the Steelworks are even more less accessible to tourists than the Vatican, so you can give up any ideas of getting past the main gates. Nowa Huta may have been designed to be a socialist show- case city, but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist activity and played a huge part in the Solidarity strikes of the early 1980s, preceded by the struggle for permission to build the city’s first church; though it took 28 years, The Lord’s Ark (Kościół Arka Pana) was finally consecrated in 1977. While much of NH is the product of the last half century, a true tour of the area reveals a number of treasures of much older historical value. The most epitomising example of a pre-steel age in the area has to be Wanda’s Mound a mysterious prehistoric earthwork that proves the area’s settlement predates that of Kraków’s Old Town. The quiet communities of Krzesławice and Mogiła each hide pristine examples of ancient Polish sacral architecture in the wooden churches of St. John the Baptist and St. Bartholomew. Artist Jan Matejko enjoyed Krzesławice so much he used it as an art- ist retreat as his preserved period manor house evidences. Mogiła meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished reli- gious sites in Małopolska in the Cistercian Monastery and its morbidly miraculous cross. If you’ve more time to explore, a walking or cycling tour of Mogiła’s small back roads is akin to an open-air ethnographic museum, just watch out for the German shepherds behind every garden fence. Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram network. Tram 4 from Dwórzec Główny (the train station stop), or tram 22 from Starowiślna both go straight to Plac Centralny in about 20mins. Getting There Roses Avenue (Aleja Róż) Despite the density of visitors to Kraków since the budget airline boom, it’s still incredibly easy to derail yourself from the tourist trail. One of Kraków’s best diversions is Las Wolski (Wolski Forest) - a massive protected woodland atop several hills that majestically tower over the city centre a mere 8km to the west (just beyond Salwator and Kościuszko Mound). The forest’s close proximity and easy access make it one of the best recreational areas available to Cracovians; Las Wolski’s 422 hectares (1042 acres) include eight marked hiking trails (total length 35km/22 miles), a cycling path, horse-riding trail and cross-country skiing route. In addition to being an important local recreational enclave and wildlife habitat for deer, badgers, hares, foxes and other critters, the forest also shelters several tourist destinations, including the Kraków Zoo, Pilsudski Mound and the mysterious Camaldolese Monastery atop Srebrna Góra (Silver Mountain). Kraków Zooul. Kasy Oszczędności Miasta Krakowa 14 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow. pl. First opened in 1929, this lovely zoological garden has grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park offering visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals of almost 300 species, but still manageable in size. Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of the surrounding Wolski Forest - making this a great sunny day activity - and there’s surprisingly little to get depressed about. Among the rare, exoticandendangeredspeciesyou’llseeareIndianelephants, pygmy hippopotami, South American sea lions, camels, dwarf caimansandasurprisinglyimpressivearrayofbrightly-plumed pheasants (our favourite). There’s also a petting zoo, snack bar for when you’re hungry and ice cream vendors so your kids have something totally unnecessary to nag you about. Bus 134 leaves from Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kałuży, H-3) and drops you off at the entrance. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/10zł. Piłsudski Mound (Kopiec Piłsudkiego) Al. do Kopca (Wolski Forest). Man-made earthwork burial mounds were already an established Cracovian tradition by the 20th century (see Krakus Mound, Kościuszko Mound), and talk of building one in honour of Poland’s inter-war hero and leader Józef Piłsudski was underway even before his death in 1935. By 1937 it was complete, and though the Nazis had it slated for demolition and the communists even got the tanks out to pull down the huge granite cross that once stood at its peak, Piłsudski Mound still stands today as an enduring and sacred symbol of Polish independence. About a 25 minute walk north from the Zoo on the red trail, this is the highest point in Las Wolski; the panoramic views from the top are excellent and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains are visible to the south. Camaldolese Monastery Al. Konarowa 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 76 10, Those looking to get well off the tourist trail might consider a spiritual journey to Las Wolski’s mysterious and discreetly secluded Camaldo- lese Monastery (Klasztor Kamedułów), otherwise known as the ‘Silver Mountain Hermitage.’ Here the Camaldolites - part of the Benedictine family of monastic orders - have lived in peace and obscurity since their founder Mikołaj Wolski (after whom the entire forest is now named) arrived from Italy and wangled the land from Sebastian Lubomirski in 1604. Damaged by fire and rebuilt in 1814, this large, walled, white limestone architectural complex is today one of the finest representations of late-Baroque style in Europe. The hermetic lives of the Camaldolites arouse a great amount of curiosity and speculation from those beyond the wall due to their secrecy and seclusion. Clad in hooded white robes and bushy beards, the monks follow the severe self-imposed principles ‘Ora et labora’ (‘Pray and work’) and ‘Memento Mori’ (‘Remember you must die’), abstain from speaking unless absolutely necessary and only encounter each other during certain prayer times. Short verbal exchanges are allowed three times a week, while contact with the world beyond the monastery is only allowed five days a year. Be- tween prayer and work, simple vegetarian meals are eaten in the solitude of each monk’s small hermitage, where one of the only aspects of décor is the skull of his predecessor. An extremely isolated, strict and devout order, there are presently less than 60 Camaldolese monks in the world, of which 9 live in Las Wolski. While the compound is founded on isolationism, it is possible for men to gain entrance to the monastery daily from 08:00 - 11:30 and 15:20 - 16:30. Women, on the other hand, are only permitted 12 days a year, but three of them are in the next two months: June 23rd, July 14th, July 28th. Although access to the grounds is limited, the main church - featuring two 50m towers, eight ornate Baroque chapels, an impressive main altar and creepy underground crypts (crypts accessible to men only) - and its immediate surroundings are open at the specified times and well worth a look if you’re patient enough to get inside. To do so involves bravely pulling an iron ring attached to a long chain and waiting an indeter- minable amount of time for one of the monks to silently open the large wooden doors of the main gate, before vanishing again like a cloud of vapour. A truly spell-binding and spiritual place,themonastery’slegendgrewwhenItalianfootballcoach Cesare Prandelli and his staff made a 21km pilgrimage here from their Old Town hotel on foot, setting off at 03:00 in the morning and arriving for morning mass, after qualifying for the knockout phase of EURO 2012. The sanctuary can be more easily reached by taking any westbound bus except number 100 from the Salwator tram roundabout to the bottom of Srebrna Góra (Silver Mountain); it’s then a steep 200 metre walk uphill on the red trail to the monastery. Even easier is taking bus 134 from the Cracovia Stadium (ul. Kałuży, H-3) to the Zoo and from there it’s about a 20 minute walk south following the red trail (to the left if facing the zoo entrance). Pawel Krzan,, Car access to Las Wolski is restricted, so even if you have a vehicle it’s more sensible to take the bus. Bus number 134 leaves from ‘Stadion Cracovia’ (ul. Kałuży, H-3) near the Błonia and takes passengers directly to the Zoo at the very centre of the forest. Here you’ll find a map of all the trails in the area, the most popular of which is the red trail which leads north to Piłsudski Mound, and south to the Camaldolese Monastery. Take a look at the timetables at the bus stop to make sure you know what time you need to catch your return into town; you’ll have to come back to this spot to do so. Getting to Las Wolski Scale model of original urban plan for Plac Centralny and Roses Avenue.
  • 58. 114 NOWA HUTA 115NOWA HUTA Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Churches Church of St. Bar- tholomewR-5,ul.Klasztor- na11,www.mogila.cystersi. pl. Founded by Kraków bishop Iwo Odrowąż who brought the Cistercians to Mogiła from Sile- sia in 1222, the present struc- tureofthisoutstandingwooden churchdatesfrom1466.Asthe ChurchofSt.Wenceslasacross thestreetwaspartofamonas- tic complex, St. Batholomew’s was erected to accommodate the Catholic layman, one of whom - master carpenter Maciej Mączka - put his name and completion date on the door after buildingthisenduringwoodentreasure.Exceptionalforitsthree aisles - a rarity in wooden church architecture - the 18th cen- tury belfry and beautiful domed entrance gate have also been preserved. Getting inside can sometimes be a challenge, but it’s still at least worth taking a look at the exterior architecture. Mogiła is easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams 10 and 16; get off at the ‘Klasztorna’ stop and it’s a short walk south. Q During the summer tour guides actually work here on Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Though it’s in Polish only, you can pick up some English language info and have a look around. Church of St. John the Baptist S-2, ul. Wańkowicza, tel. 12 642 15 84. Next door to Matejko’s manor house, this is one of two wooden churches in the area. Built between 1633 and 1648 in the village of Jaworniki in the mountains on Poland’s eastern border with Ukraine, when the church was threatened by demolition in the 1980s local authorities surprisingly approved its transfer to Krzesławice as part of a planned open-air folk architecture museum which never came to be. A tower was added and the historic monument took on new life as a place of worship, which continues today with regular services held in the small, single-aisle interior. Q Open only during mass and by prior arrangement. The Cistercian Monastery R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11, Located in what remains of the sleepy village of Mogiła that Nowa Huta was plunked down upon, the ancient Cistercian Monastery, with its two adjoining churches, was the closest place of worship to Plac Centralny until Arka Pana Church (N-1) was finally consecrated in 1977. The vast and splendid Holy Cross Basilica and the adjoining Cistercian cloister, which date way, way back to 1266, are recognised as among the most important religious buildings in Małopolska. During the Renaissance the monastery was well known for its master painters and the huge interior of Holy Cross Basilica as well as the monastery library feature many fine works from the period. Most importantly, Holy Cross Basilica also stores the famous Cross of Mogiła - the source of many miraculous legends. Said to have been discovered when a blacksmith’s son jumped into the Wisła River to save what he thought to be a drowning man floating downstream, the cross was brought to the monastery and quickly began buildingareputationformiraclesbeforecementingthemwhen it was the only part of the church’s furnishings not destroyed by the fire of 1447, despite being made of wood. Christ’s hair andloinclothwereburnedhowever,andeversincethattimehe has donned a wrap of true fabric and a wig of real human hair. Weird. The monastery is easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams 10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna stop and it’s a short walk south. Q Holy Cross Basilica open 06:00 - 20:00, sightseeing between services only. On Sundays (when services are most frequent) the best time to visit is from 15:00 - 16:00 when the gardens are also open. The Lord’s Ark (Kościół Arka Pana) N-1, ul. Obrońców Krzyża 1, Built between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Huta’s first house of worship was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was pieced together brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance from the communist authorities. The complete opposite of what Nowa Huta was meant to stand for, The Lord’s Ark is a remarkable building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in Catholicism. With no outside help it was down to the locals to mix cement with spades, and find the two million stones needed for the church’s facade. The first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol Wojtyła, who would later as- sume fame as Pope John Paul II, but the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump delayed work, as some 5,000 mines and shells had to be carefully removed. Finally, on May 15th 1977, the church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noah’s Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the middle, the church houses an array of curious treasures, including a stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle containing a fragment of rutile brought back from the moon by the crew of Apollo 11, and a controversial statue of Christ that shows him not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. If you think that’s odd, check out the statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured - a half metre sculpture made from ten kilograms of shrapnel removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the Battle of Monte Cassino. In the early 1980s, the church became a focal point during anti-communist protests, not least for the shelter it afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during the period of Martial Law was dangerous business, as proven by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Włosik opposite the church. Włosik was shot in the chest by security ser- vices, and later died of his injuries. His death outraged the people, and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The monument commemorating the site of his death was erected in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during this period. As recently as September 2012, Kraków City Council awarded Arka Pana the ‘Cracoviae Merenti’ silver medallion for its significance to the city’s history. Q Open 06:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please. Museums Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Mate- jki) S-1, ul. Wańkowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74. Located in Krzesławice - a charming village hidden just one street behind Nowa Huta’s artificial lake, here you’ll find the small manor house with a wood shingle roof once used as a workshop by Poland’s greatest 19th century painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly ironic today, this is where the artist went to escape the crude haste of life in Kraków. First inhabited by Hugo Kołłątaj - an eminent Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Poland’s constitution (the first in Europe), Matejko purchased the manor in 1876 adding on the porch and the extension which would house his workshop. Inside guests will see Matejko’s famous ‘Gallery of Polish Kings’ as well as many illustrations, everyday items and period furniture. Next door is the wooden Church of St. John the Baptist - also worth seeing. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Mon, Sun. Visits for groups of over 10 available by prior arrangement. Call (+48) 12 656 50 51. Admission 7/4zł. Nowa Huta Museum (Dzieje Nowej Huty) O-2, os. Słoneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97 75, This small museum features a series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture of the district. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Wed free. Jakub Hałun, Wikipedia,CC BY-SA 3.0 of the only places to eat in NH that isn’t a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that hasn’t been updated in well over 30 years. Stop in Saturday evening to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on the dancefloor to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband and wife team, and we guarantee you won’t be able to leave before dancing with at least two grannies and having at least three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural experience, few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere. Wanda’s Mound (Kopiec Wandy) T-4, Near intersec- tion of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa. Though con- struction of Nowa Huta began in 1949, Kopiec Wandy is indisput- able evidence that the history of the area goes back much further. In fact, the village of Mogiła, which Kopiec Wandy is near the historical centre of, has been inhabited since 5000 BC without interruption, while archaeolo- gists date the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town much later in the 8th century. Together with Kopiec Krakusa in Podgórze (K-5) - Kraków’s other prehistoric earthwork - Kopiec Wandy plays a role in one of Poland’s greatest archeaological mys- teries as the mound’s date of construction, builders and function all remain a subject of great speculation. Leading theories suggest that both mounds were erected sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is that they were created as burial mounds which later became cult sites. Though seemingly random within the layout of modern Kraków, the location of the two mounds can hardly be seen as an accident; when standing atop Kopiec Wandy on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen setting in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa. Off a major road behind a handy tramstop (station ‘Kopiec Wandy’), Wanda’s Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small monu- ment from the 19th century by Jan Matejko who lived in the Krzesławice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect and geographical trespasses, Wanda’s Mound today lies just beyond the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir steel plant, of which glimpses of a large junkyard can be seen through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improve- ment, where Kopiec Krakusa and Podgórze can be seen in the distance, though Wanda’s Mound unfortunately doesn’t offer sweeping views of the same caliber as Kraków’s other mounds. The parkland surrounding the mound is in need of the development which is apparently planned, not to men- tion some proper modern archaeological studies; behind the mound is a footpath leading to the right towards one of Kraków’s hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but, honestly, it just gives us the creeps. Places of Interest The Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac Centralny i Aleja Róż) O-4. The centre of Nowa Huta’s architectural layout, Plac Centralny is the district’s primary landmark and one of social realism’s highest architectural achievements in PL, despite never being completed. The two main structures of the square were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none saw development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them - Roses Avenue (Aleja Róż, O-3) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’ While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining the way, you’ll find several curiosities worth peeping into. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00. Closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original 50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers and a coffer ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic plates. The character of this place hasn’t changed a bit and as such it’s a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework or famous Bolesławiec pottery at basement prices. Crossing the street to os. Centrum C, original interiors have also been preserved in the corner Skarbnica bookshop, but for a true taste of the district visit the incredible milk bar next door to it. Nowa Huta is literally chock-a-block with milk bars, but we’ve never seen anything as glorious as the midnight blue with a rainbow motif interior of this bar mleczny. If you think that can’t be topped, take a trip to the other end of the block to see the hideously outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited what is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in Kraków. He made a high-profile comeback in 1954 when the Steelworks were named after him, and a year later a statue of him was unveiledinStrzeleckiPark.ThefigurewasmovedtotheLenin Museumsoonafter,andthereaftermysteriouslydisappeared. In 1970 the decision was taken to construct a new one on Al. Róż, with Marian Konieczny winning the commission. Strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenin’s former flat. Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate Konieczny took three years to create a cracker of a statue, with the seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully foreward down the centre of town with raincoat open and furrowed brow. The people of Nowa Huta however were left unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle, battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left below the statue which read, “Take these old boots, get on the bike and get the heel out of Nowa Huta.” In 1979 a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty proved to be a local man who died of shock after being awoken by the blast. During the Martial Law era more attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he doggedly survived an effort to pull him down, as well as an arson attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was picked up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused fort. But his story doesn’t end there. Years later a Swedish philanthropist bought him for 100,000 Swedish crowns, and had him shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm. Today Nowa Huta’s former pet Lenin has been given a more youthful look by Swedish artists, and is now seen touting a pierced ear and a handrolled ciggie. But we kid. Memories of Lenin Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriańska 38, tel. (+48) 500 09 12 00, Specialising in communist themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Send- zimir Steelworks. Experience Stalin’s gift to Kraków - one of the world’s only centrally planned cities - in a genuine Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile. Q ‘Communism Tour’ 129zł per person. Tours
  • 59. 116 Kraków In Your Pocket WIELICZKA Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out of Kraków (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city limits) leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes. Alternatively, frequent trains also run for about 5.30zł, or take bus 304 from the ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’ stop outside Galeria Krakowska near ul. Kurniki (D-1), or one of the Wieliczka-bound mini-buses leaving from the parking area near there at the corner of ul. Ogrodowa and ul. Pawia (D-1). Cost 3.50zł, journey time 20-30mins. Getting to Wieliczka Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist cities in Eastern Europe, and as you’ve likely heard, one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in Wieliczka—a small town about 15km to the southeast. An astounding 1.2 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each year (that’s one out of every seven or eight visitors to Kraków), and it’s hardly a recent phenomenon—people have been visiting the salt mine for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official tourist trail opened underground here way back in the mid-19th century. But it’s not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in a recent survey (see Local Likes & Dislikes), Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again, not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres away. Not only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it has the distinction of having been included (along with Kraków’s Old Town) on UNESCO’s first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know, back when being a World Heri- tage site actually meant something). Additional accolades aside, this unique industrial heritage site has been a popular destination for centuries and if you’re visiting Kraków, you should also consider the short side trip out to Wieliczka, which in addition to the famous salt mine, also boasts a health resort, castle and museum. History About 20 million years ago, Kraków and the surrounding area apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfor- tunately for those of us here today, the beaches are gone, but left behind were some enormous salt deposits, shifted hundreds of metres underground by tectonic movements. Though cheap and universally accessible today, salt was an extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to its ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient sign of wealth, salt was used as currency before there was money; Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were said to be ‘worth their salt’ and the word ‘salary’ comes from the Latin word ‘salarium’ used to describe their wages. Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in the regions surrounding Kraków can be traced back to the middle Neolithicera(3500BC),butitwasthediscoveryofunderground rock salt in the 13th century that led to the rapid development of the area. Underground extraction began in nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon both cities had earned municipal rights and by the end of the 13th century the Cracow Saltworks was establishedtomanagebothmines,withitsheadquartersinthe Wieliczkacastlecomplex.OneofthefirstcompaniesinEurope, the Cracow Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown for the next 500 years until the first partition of Poland in the 18th century. Its heyday was the 16th and 17th centuries when it employed some 2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000 tonnesandtheSaltworksaccountedforonethirdoftherevenue of the state treasury. Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was further increased by mechanising the mining works with steam and later electric machinery, and the first tourist route was opened. By the 20th century however, over-exploitation and neglect of necessary protection works had begun to destabilise the mine’s condition and the market value of salt no longer made it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite the significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins, explosive gas), over the course of seven centuries 26 access shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual levels had been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers had been excavated with over 240km of tunnels reaching a maximum depth of 327m underground. Due to its unique saline microclimate and innovative engineering, the mine has been well preserved and is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.
  • 60. 118 Kraków In Your Pocket WIELICZKA What to See Wieliczka Salt Mine ul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, A visit to the salt mine begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft; buy your ticket from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display for the time of the next guided tour in your language. Your ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Under- ground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit. In between there’s an opportunity to take a break, use the restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if that’s your preference). However, be aware that the tour does not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you to and through the Underground Museum (which you have already paid for) as well. Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szczęść Boże (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable bit of miner’s lingo effectively means ‘God be with you’ and substitutes for Dzień dobry (‘hello’) when underground. Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs (don’t worry, you won’t have to climb them) to the first level 64m underground. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5kms covered during the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising a mere 1% of thisundergroundrealm.Whilewanderingthetimber-re-enforced tunnels you’ll gain insight from your guide into the history of the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the men who worked there. There’s the opportunity to not only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila). The tour visitsnumerousancientchambersandchapelsinwhichalmost everythingaroundyouismadefromrocksalt,includingthetiled floors,chandeliers,sculpturesandstringystalactitesthathang down. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m³ St. Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carv- ings from the New Testament done by miners that display an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the balcony at the top for 10zł), the first part of the tour ends at the undergroundrestaurantandsouvenirstands,atwhichpointyou should be instructed on your two options: how to exit (option A) or where and when to join the second part of the tour (option B). If this option B is unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide that you also want to see the Underground Museum and ask them how to do so. At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the restaurant and restrooms, beyond which you’ll find the queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the right for those that want to continue on to the Underground Museum (option B, which we heartily recommend). Your origi- nal guide should admit you into the museum exhibition which comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment which your guide will elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back to where you started. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30. Admission 73/58zł. Taking photos is an additional 10zł. In addition to the popular ‘Tourist Route’ described above, several other routes are offered including a handicap-accessible route, a route for children, and a new interactive ‘Miner’s Route’ in which tourists leave from the Regis mine in work clothes accompanied by an English-speaking guide, are assigned a role by the foreman and experience the daily routines, rituals and secrets of working underground. Miner’s Route open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission76/64zł. The Saltworks Castle & Museum (Muzeum Żup Krakowskich Wieliczka) ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 58 49, From the Daniłowicza Shaft it’s a short, rather picturesque walk to the Saltworks Castle, which served as the admin- istrative seat of the Cracow Saltworks Board. Originally built between the 13th and 16th centuries, the castle was demolished during World War II before being beautifully reconstructed in 1984. The castle courtyard features the foundations of the original oval-shaped defensive walls and a 14th century tower that once housed a prison and shooting gallery. The main building holds a museum documenting the history of Wieliczka and the castle itself from its early begin- nings to modern times, local archaeological findings, a model of 19th century Wieliczka, a collection of saltcellars from all over the world, and other temporary exhibits. With little to no information in English, the museum is hardly required visiting but interesting enough to warrant the negligible entry fee if you have time. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/3zł, family ticket 10 zł. Guided tours in English 35zł per person; must be booked at least 7 days in advance. Underground Health Resort (Uzdrowisko Ko- palnia Soli “Wieliczka”) Park Kingi 1, bldg. I, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 68, www.uzdrowisko. With the market value of table salt no longer being what it was in medieval times, today the salt mine is most valuable for its health benefits (and tourist dollars, of course). Given its perfect isolation from external factors, the specific microclimate of the subterranean saline chambers is completely bacteria- and allergen-free and rich in healthy micro-elements such as sodium chloride, magnesium and chloride. Such an environment is brilliant for anyone suffering from asthma, bronchitis, lung inflammation, allergies or recur- rent nose, sinus or throat conditions. As such, the salt mine also operates as a health resort offering a variety of single and multiple day health treatments in the Jezioro Wessel (Wessel Lake) and Stajnia Gór Wschodnich (Stable of East Mining Hills) saline chambers located 135m underground. Here individuals and groups can participate in a number of organised breathing exercises and walks, as well as music therapy (reservations required). The health resort also offers innovative methods for the treatment of serious respiratory ailments and a broad range of modern medical services with professional medical staff and equipment. More info can be found on their website. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Prices vary by season, treatment and length of stay. Check the website for specific quotes. LOCAL TOURS EXPERT TYNIEC KRAKÓW WIELICZKA SALT MINE ZAKOPANE THERMAL POOLSWARSAW AUSCHWITZ BIRKENAU AIRPORT TRANSFERS NOWA HUTA +48 12 346 38 99
  • 61. 121AUSCHWITZ June - July 120 AUSCHWITZ Kraków In Your Pocket and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural depicting two playful kittens. Block 11, otherwise known as ‘The Death Block’, is arguably the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the ‘Wall of Death’ - againstwhichthousandsofprisonerswereshotbytheSS-has beenturnedintoamemorialfestoonedwithflowers;itwashere that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-breaking visit in2006.Withintheterrifying,claustrophobiccellarsofBlock11 the Nazi’s conducted their first experiments with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial, and tiny ‘standingcells’measuring90x90cm-whereuptofourprison- ers were held for indefinite amounts of time - remain intact. The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory of the Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside. Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare ac- cordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a guide, it is highly recommended that you pick up the official guidebook (5zł), whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both sites. Q Both camps are open 08:00 - 19:00. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps costs 40/30zł. Tours for groups up to 10 people, 250zł. For larger groups 300zł. The film costs 4/3zł (included in the price of a group tour). Headphones cost 5zł per person (included in the price of a group tour). Official guidebook 5zł.. Auschwitz I (Państwowe Muzeum Auschwitz - Birkenau)ul. Więźniów Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of the infa- mous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (‘Work Makes You Free’) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind the world’s most notorious concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine. Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most af- fectingly, children’s shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs, artists’ drawings 1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a concentration camp in Oświęcim, primarily because of the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th, 728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnów become the first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000 Soviet POWs. 1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are con- ducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd. 1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz are established. 1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put to death. 1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers, crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk, approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous ‘death marches’. About 15,000 die during this ‘evacuation’. On January 27 the Red Army liberates Oświęcim, where roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison. Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it is visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German Pope Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th, 2009 thieves steal the infamous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ sign from above the main entrance gate, cutting it into pieces and abandoning it in the woods in northern PL; the sign has been replaced by a replica. A Brief History The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is pre- sented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit. Visiting the Auschwitz Museum Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and con- fusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows with different designations, and excessive signage that contradicts itself. This can be avoided by going as part of an organised group tour, organised by a local tour company. If you are visiting independently however, or in a small group, find the queue for the desk marked ‘Individual Guests’. Dur- ing peak tourist season the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a guided tour unless you get there before 10:00 (difficult to do from Kraków) or after 15:00; in the off season (November 1st - March 31st) it is also possible to explore the museum for free without a guide regardless of the time. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tours in English depart most frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish. Tour departure times change frequently; exact times can be seen online at and it would be wise to look them up before visiting. The museum makes a big effort to provide the tour in the native language of each guest, and tours in languages other than those just mentioned can be easily arranged if done in advance. After purchasing your ticket and headphones, your experi- ence typically begins with a harrowing 20 minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film (not recommended for children under 14) is not guaranteed year- round however, in which case your tour of the camp begins straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness. Visitors to Kraków are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a dif- ficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfort- able about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explana- tions for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going. Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways to get to Oświęcim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be signing on for atourorganisedbyamultitudeofKraków-basedtourcom- panies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to ensure everythinggoessmoothly;providingtransportation,tickets and general guidance, the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion upon arrival. For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for Oświęcim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, but not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up at the Oświęcim bus station which is at the other end of town. The journey takes 1hr 40mins and costs 14zł. Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins - 1hr 55mins and a cost of about 16zł; note, however, that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily crowded, particu- larly on weekends. The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24- 29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3zł) from the nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15zł. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour can take you back to Kraków from either camp - a group of eight would pay about 25-35zł/person. Getting There
  • 62. 123 June - July 122 AUSCHWITZ Kraków In Your Pocket Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Państwowe Muzeum Auschwitz - Birkenau) Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however it’s here that the impact of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Confer- ence on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubber-stamped the wholesale extermination of European Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held there in 1944. The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the complex’s size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand side lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the penal colony and also the women’s camp. At the far end of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria, as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander and reflect on their own before catching the return bus to Auschwitz I. Under occupation efforts were made to turn the town into a model Nazi settlement with plans for wide green spaces and modern estates. Aside from normal German settlers thetownsaw7,000SSservehereandtheyenjoyedagood community life complete with coffee house, swimming pool, kindergarten and a profusion of cultural events; at onestagetheDresdenStateTheatreperformedhere.The SS pub was housed in a building across from Oświęcim train station, and its top floor was turned into a flat to serve Himmler during his visits. After the war, however, the hunt was on to find the people who perpetrated the Holocaust. Camp Commandant Ru- dolf Hoss was captured in 1946, while posing as a farm hand. Sentenced to death he was hanged next to the gas chamberofAuschwitzIonApril16,1947.Otherswhofaced the hangman’s noose included the head of the women’s camp, Maria Mandel, as well as her 22 year old sidekick IrmaGrese,aka‘TheBeautifulBeast.’AdolfEichmannwas the mastermind behind mass Jewish deportations in the Eastern territories. Having fled to Argentina after the war he was kidnapped by Mossad agents, before facing the trial of the century in Israel in which he was sentenced to hang. Josef Mengele, ‘The Angel of Death,’ served as the camp doctor at Auschwitz and supervised selections for the gas chambers as well as brutal medical experiments on children. He evaded justice and died in a swimming accident in Brazil in the 1970s. The Nazi Perpetrators Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra Lomdei Mishnayot Synagogue (Centrum Żydowskie) Pl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 70 02, This centre located 3km from the Auschwitz museum maintains the town’s restored synagogue, shows a film with testimonies of Holocaust survivors and offers a specially tailored programme for those who call ahead. It also features a permanent exhibi- tion on Jewish life in the town of Oświęcim before World War II. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 6zł. Jewish Centre TYSKIE Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Książęce) ul. Mikołowska 5 (entrance from Katowicka 9), Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, The Tyskie Browary Książęce, in the town of Tychy (German Tichau) some 10km south of Katowice has been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. And because of its Silesian location it has witnessed a number of historic events over the years with its own history reflecting that of the region. The originally German-owned brewery now produces the famous Tyskie Gronie, Poland’s best selling beer, and Tyskie Browary Książęce’s (or just Tyskie) impressive ensemble of buildings also includes a superb little museum which is open to the public for tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a friendly and informative, English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire brewing process. Starting in the immaculately preserved Old Brewery, a masterpiece of original decorative tiles and old copper vats installed during WWI that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly put inside them, the tour follows the brewing process from start to finish and also offers a fascinating insight into the history of the factory. Highlights include the so-called Bachelors’ Quarters and the saucy tales that go with them, a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station and, across the road, a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. Now producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres of booze annually (or to put it another way, if you put all that beer into half litre bottles and laid them end to end you’d have a line of beer 80,000km long), the rise of the brewery is recorded inside the superb Brewery Museum, complete with interactive displays in English and housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902. Tours must be booked in advance, and yes, there’s a tasting session at the end. The tours are conducted in Polish, English, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Czech, Russian and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to hear what that might sound like). The museum building also houses the local City Museum, which is well worth having a look inside if you’ve got the time, while the town itself is also worth exploring to properly cap your trip to Tychy.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 2,5 hours before closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 12/6zł. The easiest way to get to Tychy from Kraków is by car and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half. Alternatively you can get there from Kraków by train which involves a change in Katowice and takes about two and a half hours. The brewery is a short walk southeast from Tychy train station. Getting There
  • 63. 125TARNÓW June - July 124 TARNÓW Kraków In Your Pocket By Car Tarnów is close to a number of major road routes in all directions and is worth considering as a place to stop off for a few hours or even for the night if you’re on a long journey. Only 80km from Kraków, thanks to the new (free!) A4 highway connecting the two cities, it’s an easy, hassle-free drive to Tarnów that should take less than an hour. Near the centre the most convenient place to park is ul. Bernardyńska (E-4), just southeast of the market square; from Pl. Sobieskiego turn onto ul. Targowa (D-4) and then make your next left on Bernardyńska (D-5). Parking must be paid Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-13:00 (Sun free), with some complicated math dictating the price depending how long you will be there (for example: 1zł/30mins, 2.50zł/1hr, 5.10zł/2hrs, 8zł/3hrs, after which it’s an additional 2.50zł for every hour over 3, or 17zł for the whole day). Buy a ticket from the kiosk, cross off the proper time and from there the market square and tourist info office are just one block to your north. By Train Tarnów is served by some 30 or so trains every day from Kraków, with a journey time of between 90 and 120 minutes depending on whether you take a local or express train. Main Train Station A-6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www. Following an extensive renovation, Tar- now’s train station reopened in November 2010, exactly one hundred years after its original opening in November 1910. While fully modernised to include all the modern passenger services you’d expect (24-hour ticket window, kiosk, shop, cafe, underground restaurant), the original character of the place has been retained, including Ed- mund Cieczkiewicz’s paintings of the Tatra and Pieniny mountains which were funded by the early train owners over a century ago. Walking to the centre only takes about 10mins up ul. Krakowska, while a taxi from outside the station will cost about 10-12zł. Hotels Bristol C-4/5, ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47 74 77, Enjoy a sumptuous atmosphere of slightly flamboyant grandeur inside Tarnów’s most exclusive hotel. Bristol’s immaculate rooms come with minibars, cable television, spacious beds and a choice of en suite facilities with either a shower or bath. Extras include plenty of elegant chande- liers, Doric columns that don’t actually support anything, a solarium, gym and an outrageously pink honeymoon apartment featuring a large Jacuzzi. Q17 rooms (4 singles, 5 doubles, 2 triples, 4 suites, 2 apartments). PTHAFGKW hhhh U Jana D-4, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, An excellent choice, with 12 apartments boasting views of the market square, all at a great value with prices varying based on size and standard. Where they get all these oil paintings is be- yond comprehension, but there’s a barrage of them on the ground floor and you’ll find some in your quarters as well. Suites are stylised quite tastefully to represent the Renaissance history of the building, with large beds in handsome frames, wooden floors and modern facilities including satellite television and wifi. It’s an unbeatable location, the downstairs restaurant is more reliable than many in the area as well, and now there’s a new billiards room to keep you busy. Q12 rooms (12 apartments). PTHA6GKW Eat & Drink Basteja D-4, ul. Kapitulna 8, tel. (+48) 14 656 42 02, Finding Basteja comes as a relief, as it validates the hope that there must be at least one cool cafe/bar hidden somewhere in this city. Hidden indeed it is - in a passageway between ul. Kapitulna and ul. Wałowa - and it owes a lot to its location which comprises part of Tarnów’s ancient city walls. On one side you’ll find an ethereal red interior with tasteful lighting and black and white photography of Old Tarnów on the walls, while across the passage you can’t miss the magnificent summer beer garden inside the ruins of the bastion it takes its name from. Either way, this is one of the most laid-back locales around and you’re likely to leave with it near the top of your list of trip highlights. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. GBW Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls and defensive towers), Tarnów’s exemplary Old Town began life in the 14th century, although most of what now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four sizes by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the 16th to the 18th century. At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which a bugler plays Tarnów’s ‘hejnał’ - a short traditional melody - every day at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Craco- vian cousin, the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jewish quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower and a pleasant pedestrian street, hug- ging its northern edge and featuring several interesting buildings as well as a number of monuments. In the spring and summer the Rynek comes to life with tables and chairs from the multitude of cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restaurants) lining it and has a warm and welcoming appeal. Rynek & The Old Town Eighty kilometres east of Kraków near the crossroads of two ancient trade routes lies the charming and hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size, Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many of the same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd men- tality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors will discover several unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in Jewish history should be extra motivated to visit Tarnów due to its deep Jewish heritage, many traces of which are still in evidence today in the city’s evocative Jewish district and large Jewish Cemetery. While the town’s nightlife may not have the sizzle of Kraków, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants, the best of which we list here, where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to easily warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as in addition to serving as a quiet, even romantic retreat from Kraków, Tarnów also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at Dębno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. You’ll find more information on Tarnów and all the surround- ing area has to offer on our website, but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information office when you arrive for more insights and to pick up a copy of our special Tarnów mini-guide. Getting There Eighty kilometres east of Kraków at the crossroads of two ancient trade routes between Germany and Ukraine as well as Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnów is easily reached by road. A good network of train and bus services running in and out of the city centre also link Tarnów with many major destinations throughout Poland. The nearest airport is Kraków Balice. By Bus Buses from Kraków to Tarnów run about once an hour, with the first leaving as early as 06:30 and the last bus back to Kraków departing at 21:45 (note that on Thurs and Sun there is one more bus to Kraków at 22:05). PKS schedules aren’t famous for their long-term consistency however, so you may want to check ahead. Minibuses also make the trip, departing from across from the bus station, so don’t overlook that option if you need it. Main Bus Station A-6, ul. Dworcowa 1. Offering almost nothinginthewayofservicesorfacilitiesasidefromacurrency exchange (kantor), toilets downstairs, and a few kiosks selling mobile top-up vouchers and snacks. Don’t be duped by the ticket windows, they only sell monthly passes and local fares, which goes a long way towards explaining why everyone just buys their tickets from the driver. There are no ATMs, so if you need cash you’ll have to go to the train station next door. To get into town, find taxis parked outside, which will take you to the Rynek for 10-12zł. Bus N°9 can be caught on ul. Krakowska (buy a 15min ticket for 2.20zł from one of the nearby kiosks), and heads east along the same street before peeling right and skirting around the southern edge of the Old Town. A walk into the centre takes about 10 minutes. Q Open 06:00 - 22:00. First mentioned in a document dated 1124, Tarnów was granted city rights by King Władysław Łokietek in 1330 - an event celebrated by a fine monument of the King on ul. Wałowa before the stairs leading up to Plac Katedralny. It was at this time that the medieval layout the city retains to this day was created, with the market square and Town Hall at its centre. A privately owned city until 1787, Tarnów’s greatest period of growth came under the illustrious, avant-garde nobleman Jan Tarnowski during the 16th century when the Old Town was largely reconstructed in the manner that today earns it the accolade of being Poland’s ‘Pearl of the Renaissance.’ When the Tarnowski clan expired without an heir in 1567, the city had already been incor- porated into the Austrian-Hungarian Empire during the era of Polish partitions. Tarnów’s citizens were quick to join the Polish legions when WWI broke out and the region saw many battles between the Russian and Austro- Hungarian armies, resulting in a trail of WWI memorial sites and cemeteries in the city’s vicinity. In October 1918 Tarnów gained notoriety when it became the first Polish city to reclaim independence after 146 years of occupation, and again on August 28th, 1939 when German terrorists detonated an explosive in the city’strainstationkilling20people,injuring32,andleading some historians to claim that WWII officially started here in Tarnów.Thebombswouldstartfallingfromtheskysixdays laterandbySeptember7ththeNazishadcapturedthecity. The first Jews settled in Tarnów in the mid-15th century and by 1939 their numbers had reached 25,000 - nearly half the city’s total population. On June 14th 1940, 728 Tarnów residents (mostly Poles, in fact) became the first victims of Auschwitz; of 40,000 Jews crammed into Tarnów’s ghetto, over 10,000 were executed and the rest deported to the Belzeć death camp. Today Tarnów’s Jewish heritage remains through several historical monu- ments and sites in and around the former ghetto, though no active Jewish community has survived. Tarnów was a stronghold of resistance during Nazi oc- cupation, before eventual ‘liberation’ into the communist regime on January 17, 1945. The city developed rapidly in the postwar period as the monstrous soviet-era resi- dential blocks in the north-east part of the city became home to over one-third of its 100,000 population in the mid-70s. The rise in the prices of meat in July 1980 in- spired a series of strikes in Tarnów predating the Gdansk shipyard strikes that would eventually lead to the com- munist regime’s collapse by over a month. Since Poland’s ascension to the EU in 2004, Tarnów has enjoyed the revitalisation of its Old Town and is gaining an increasing reputation as a noteworthy tourist destination. History in Brief Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnów Tourist Information Centre
  • 64. 126 TARNÓW Kraków In Your Pocket Cafe Tramwaj (Tram Cafe) D-4, Pl. Sobieskiego 2, tel. (+48) 503 37 23 29. It’s been over 70 years since streetcars graced the streets of Tarnów, but this antique tram parked on Plac Sobieskiego takes tourists and locals back in time to Tarnów’s golden era, when electrified public transport was a symbol of the city’s stature. Capturing the spirit of the old days (the good ones, mind you) this authentic wood-trimmed and furnished tram car full of sepia postcards and inter-war souvenirs is the perfect place to meet for coffee, a slice of cake and a conversation. It’s also a free wifi hotspot, which is hardly taken for granted in this town. If you can score one of the limited number of tables, you’ll be happy you did. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. P6GSW Soprano C-5, ul. Mościckiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 09 09, Just when we’d given up on having a nice meal out in Tarnów, Soprano saves our appetite. This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional Italian cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the best seats in the house are only seasonal - when the outdoor garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you can watch the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but that shouldn’t stop you from making this one of your meals out when in town. The soups are delicious and come with fresh olive bread, while our lamb shank with red currant sauce (42zł) was a worthy follow-up. Probably the most money you can spend on a meal out in Tarnów, and still a heck of a bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (18-42zł). PTAUGBSW Churches Cathedral D-4, Pl. Katedral- ny, tel. (+48) 14 621 58 85, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka. Dating from the 14th century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one of the old- est brick buildings in the city, must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and Ostro- gski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost in one of Tarnów’s many rambling back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident, including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the building. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:00 - 20:30. No visiting during mass please. Museums Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) D-4, Pl. Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum. To paraphrase the late John Paul II, the Churchneedsarttobetterunderstandwhatliesinsidethesoul of man, and Tarnów’s superb Diocesan Museum, established in 1888, does a very good job at doing just that. An astonish- ing collection of religious art from the 15th century onwards, housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of 16th-century houses, the museum’s most precious artefact is the original alter from St. Leonard’s church in nearby Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation reasons at the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include some truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from Małopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A marvellous and highly recom- mended experience. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00, Sun09:00-12:00,13:00-14:00.ClosedMon.Admissionfree. Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne) C-5, ul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25, www. As well as highlighting local ethnographic traditions,thisbetterthanaverage collection includes a large celebra- tion of Roma (Gypsy) culture, which isallegedlytheonlysuchcollection in Europe. A truly fascinating, if slightly dated, exhibition tracing Roma culture in Poland from its beginnings in the 15th century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that make up the exhibition include some excellent maps, models, costumes and photographs, all of which are best seen with the aid of a small and very good booklet, The Gypsies, written by the museum’s curator Adam Bartosz and available in English for just 3zł. There are still about 350 Roma living in Tarnów, and their culture is still very much alive. In the museum’s back garden you’ll find several traditionally painted gypsy caravans. QOpen09:00-15:00;Tue,Thu09:00-17:00;Sat,Sun10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł. Sun free. Town Hall Museum (Ratusz)D-4, Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass, porcelain and silver, and the most extensive collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in the country. Two new permanent exhibits have also been added: the Hunter’s Armoury and the Sarmatian Armoury. Sarmatism, if you’re wondering, was a beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that predominated the Polish nobility from the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing belief that Poles were descended from a looseconfederationofancientIraniantribes,PolishSarmatism evolved over the centuries from a set of values based on pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches. The Town Hall Tower can also be ascended if arranged ahead of time, and offers panoramic views for an extra 10zł. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Sun free. Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90, One of the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first port of call on arrival. Here you’ll find a wide range of free information on Tarnów and the surrounding region, free internet (browse away), a few souvenirs, bicycle rental and there’s even accommodation available upstairs. If you’re interested in a gadget-led tour, there are nine dif- ferent mp3 audio tours of the main sights for hire, in ad- dition to a GPS guide called Navigo City Tour. The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking staff, can give you a better idea of what that is, plus whatever information or advice you can’t find in this guide, so don’t be shy. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Tourist Information
  • 65. 129LEISURE June - July 128 LEISURE Kraków In Your Pocket The Stage B-1, ul. Łobzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63 85, Probably Kraków’s most at- mospheric billiards club, The Stage is much more than just a pool hall. There’s a full kitchen serving quality international cuisine and in the evenings this laid-back hangout features a range of events including concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as locals rack ‘em up on the seven handsome billiards tables in front of the street-side windows. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Cost of a table ranges between 5-20zł de- pending on time of day. Golf Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club Paczółtowice 328, tel. (+48) 12 258 60 00, www.krakow-valley. com. With a club house, driving, chipping and putting ranges, this magnificent 160ha 18 hole golf course 25km west of Kraków, is one of the largest and best in Central Europe. Reserve a tee-time on weekends when the fairway is busy. To reach them you’ll either need a car or take a train from Kraków to Krzeszowice (journey takes about 40 minutes) and then a private bus to Paczółtowice (7 minutes). Q Open from 09:00 till dusk. Royal Kraków Golf & Country ClubOchmanów 124, Podłęże, tel. (+48) 12 281 91 70, www.krakowgolf. pl. A nine hole golf course located close to the Royal Jagiel- lonian Hunting Grounds (Puszcza Niepołomicka) 18km east of Kraków. A clubhouse and restaurant overlook the double green 9/18 and the course is popular with both beginners and experienced golfers. Includes indoor driving ranges, and an indoor simulator open when the outdoor course is closed for the season. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Outdoor Attractions & Parks AeroPlatform (Balon Widokowy) B-7, Bulwar Wołyński, tel. (+48) 511 80 22 02, If you find yourself across from Wawel on the opposite banks of the Vistula River and fancy a slightly more adrenaline-pumping way to a panoramic view, take a scenic ‘ride’ in this massive balloon. Rising to a height of up to 150 meters, you’ll have about fifteen minutes to snap photos and overcome your acrophobia. Possibly in a move to appease some of the critics who consider it an eyesore, the balloon has “I love Poland” and “I love Krakow” written on opposite sides of it in enormous Polish writing. Come well before dusk, bring your student card if you’ve got one and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better view of Krakow. Q Open from 10:00 till dusk. Note that the balloon may not be able to fly in bad weather. Call in advance if there is any doubt. Admis- sion: Mon-Fri 38/20zł, students with proper ID 25zł, family ticket 90zł. Sat-Sun 45/25zł, family ticket 100zł (no student discounts on weekends). Botanical Garden J-2, ul. Kopernika 27, tel. (+48) 12 663 36 35, Covering almost 10 hectares, Poland’s oldest botanical gardens date from 1783 and offer a decidedly relaxing daytime escape from the city. Extensive flora-filled paths wind between fountains, herb and rose gardens, lillypadded ponds, and a 250-year- old oak tree - the last remnant of primeval forests which once covered the entire region. A humid greenhouse hides all manner of exotic flora, including a macabre collection of carnivorous plants, while a series of outdoor classical music concerts takes place in the warmer months. A great place for romantic rendezvous or finding some peace and quiet. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Greenhouses open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Admission 6/3zł. 12zł family ticket available on weekends. While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is geared more for those looking for outdoor activities on a beautiful day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Gener- ally, Cracovians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when the sun is out and features several unique green spaces, particularly the Planty and Błonia (see Outdoor Attractions), the latter of which is home to an ice rink in winter. Other highlights include Las Wolski (Wolski Forest), which is home to Kościuszko and Piłsudski Mounds, as well as the Zoo, and provides plenty of hiking opportunities. Cracovians also love getting out of town, whether it be short day-outings to Tyniec and Ojców (both of which you can expect to be packed on sunny weekends), or mountains excursions to the Beskidy and Tatra ranges to the south. Zakopane is an especially popular destination for skiing in winter and hiking in the summer. Use the listings below to keep active in every season. Adrenaline Sports Krakowski Park Linowy ul. Widłakowa (Pychowice), tel. (+48) 514 25 66 47, www.krakowskiparklinowy. pl. Give yourself a new high navigating the maze of rope bridges, nets and ziplines of this exciting ropes park just off the Wisła bike trail midway between Wawel and Tyniec Abbey (just beyond F-5 on the IYP map). 200 metres in total, with a height ranging from 5-9m, the course is of varying difficulty but a thrilling and safe challenge for everyone thanks to helmets and harnesses. Walking the entire course takes between 45 minutes and an hour. They also offer a shorter and easier route for children over 1.4m in height. For more info visit their website which has an English option. Q Open 15:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. 30zł for adults. 25zł for children under 16. 50zł for personal accompaniment by an instructor. 15zł for the children’s route. Laser Park I-4, ul. Zabłocie 20, tel. (+48) 12 296 01 30, Run amuck in the industrial waste- land around Schindler’s Factory known as Zabłocie dodging laser beams and zapping adversaries. Laser Arena uses a computer system to register hits from the virtual bullets in a safe, simulated gunfight within this highly unique setting. Prices are complex and as follows: Mon-Thu 20/30zł for 30mins, 35/40zł for 60mins; Fri-Sun 40zł for 30mins, 55zł for 60mins. Groups (14 players minimum) Mon-Thu 350zł, Fri- Sun 400zł. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Boat Rental & River Cruises Aqua Fun B-6, Bulwar Czerwieński Marina (near Grunwaldzki Bridge), tel. (+48) 604 29 90 00, www. Regular river cruises between Bielany- Zwierzyniec and Kazimierz abroad a stylish gondola (30mins, 20/15zł; 1hr, 25/20zł) or proper boat with refreshments and an upper deck (1hr, 25/20zł). Both gondola and boat rides run from 10:00 to 20:00 every half hour, however rides don’t leave until a sufficient number of people are on-board. All are speaker-equipped with an audio tour and can be rented privately. Night cruises and private trips with live folk or klezmer music can also be arranged in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Water Equipment H-3, SKS Nadwiślańska Marina near ul. Kościuszki 16, tel. (+48) 606 22 55 55, www. Water equipment rental for a variety of sports and persuasions, including a 12-person catamaran and 4-person motorboats. Canoe and kayak rental (20zł/hr), as well as 4-person pedalos (30zł/hr). Kayaking tours also organised. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Bowling & Billiards Cue Bar K-2, ul. Mogilska 35, tel. (+48) 12 417 22 10,ów’sfirstproperbilliardsbar,CueBartakes it seriously. Judging by the prices, maybe a little too seriously. Eight tables in total: three professional snooker tables (18zł/hr), two eight-foot pool tables and three nine-foot pool tables in the attic (15-17zł/hr). And beer, of course. Call if you’re interested in tournaments or private lessons. QOpen 13:00 - 22:30. W Hotel WilgaI-5, ul. Przedwiośnie 16, tel. (+48) 12 294 44 29, The only hotel in Kraków with a bowling alley, and since the closing of Fantasy Park, one of the only places you can go bowling in town. Located in Podgórze, Wilga offers two slightly wonky lanes, billiards, foosball and a small bar in its basement, which is ideal for small private parties. Reserve in advance to ensure availability. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Bowling 30-60zł/hr. Billiards 10zł. If you’re up before happy hour and feel like doing some- thing healthy for your body for a change, you might consider renting a bike. While Kraków isn’t exactly a great cycling city, the city has been doing an admirable job of improving the urban landscape with the addition of more and more bike paths. However, the best place to ride a bike remains the Wisła riverbank. A scenic, relatively easy trip for the fit leads from Wawel into the hills of Wolski Forest (Las Wolski). From the castle fol- low the river southwest until the end of the bicycle path at the Norbertine Monastery; make a left at the main road and turn right up steep ul. Św. Bronisławy (G-3). The lane continues upwards past Salwator Cemetery; turn sharply right at the crossroads at the end to visit the Kościuszko Mound (F-3). From the crossroads, the path continues into Las Wolski where you’ll find its three main attractions: the Zoo, Piłsudski Mound, and the Camaldolese Monastery. Alternatively, cross over Dębnicki Bridge (A-5) and follow the river in the same direction from the other side and you’ve got a lovely, flat ride of about 10km to popular Tyniec Abbey. The ride takes about an hour each way. Cool Tour Company C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 20 34, The big- gest bike rental in Kraków offers you a range of options, including road bikes and beach cruisers, bikes for kids and even olde school penny farthing or modern Dutch Stepper bikes: 10zł/hr, 40zł for 5 hours, or 50zł for the whole day. Or go for the tandem for double the price. 100zł and ID deposit required. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. Cruising Kraków C-2, ul. Basztowa 17, tel. (+48) 514 55 60 17, 10-30zł for 3 hours; each additional hour 5-8zł - prices depend of the type of bike rented. Bike tours also arranged daily, no reservation necessary, just meet at the Mickiewicz monument on the market square at 11:00. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Bike Rental Błonia Meadow G-3. A massive and inexplicably undeveloped tract of greenery directly west of the Old Town, the Błonia is a huge, triangular open space mea- suring nearly 50 hectares. Technically a park, although lacking any trees or other defining characteristics, the Polish name ‘Błonie’ denotes a ‘meadow’ - something of an amiable linguistic redressing of the Błonia’s true and unchanged historical function: it’s a cow pasture. The area’s ability to survive to modern times as the largest city centre open space in Europe can be accredited to a perfect storm of boggy undesirability, a centuries-long ownership dispute, and finally a medieval legislative wrinkle. Used by locals to graze cattle even midway into the 20th century, when the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel was built next to it in 1965 the city moved to permanently ban unfashionable bovines from the Błonia, only to find themselves obstructed by an apparently still legally binding 14th century decree by Queen Jadwiga which they would have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not being the most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic partner in those times, city council decided to stick with the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to air old Bessie on the Błonia to this day. Though a great idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called ‘Bovines on the Błonia’, tell the mayor to get in touch with my agent for more details), these days you’ll find the green triangle has primarily become the favourite leisure space of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball playing owners, while the perimeter is a popular track for cycling, running and roller-blading. Protected as a National Heritage Site since 2000, the Błonia is ideal for large-scale outdoor events, hosting numerous concerts, rallies and - most notably - historic open air masses by the Pope during his visits to Kraków. Błonia Meadow Kraków Beach (Plaża Kraków) I-4, ul. Ludwinows- ka 2, tel. (+48) 530 95 03 03, pl. Featuring 10,000 metres of sand spread out across a stretch of the riverbank on the Dębniki side between Grun- waldzki Bridge (B-7) and the building formerly known as the Forum Hotel (I-4), Krakow Plaża (beach) has become party central when the sun is out. Terrific views of Wawel Castle form the backdrop to a multi-faceted venue which offers said beach where you can play beach football and volleyball, a 25 by 8 metre swimming pool hollowed into the hull of a boat docked just offshore and a large children’s playground. Throughout the day pick up a cocktail or iced coffee from the attached open-air cafe-bar or a meal at the surprisingly good restaurant, Plaża Kraków (see Restaurants). After the sun goes down, Plaża Kraków turns into more of a club, with Wednesday salsa parties a particular standout. The easiest way to get there is gather eight people together and take the free ferry from the foot of Wawel. Life’s a beach. Q Swimming pool 20zł/per hour. Volleyball courts should be booked in advance between 10:00 and 20:00, after which they are free. Kryspinów Liszki, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 53, www. Kraków’s favourite summer sun destination is this artificial beach at Kryspinów Lagoon. As such it can be incredibly crowded on sunny weekends. 12 km away and well-connected to Kraków, Kryspinów features lifeguarded swimming areas, water sports rental equipment, windsurfing and wakeboarding instruction (available in English), water slides, playgrounds, a ropes course, beach volleyball and a few eating options. The
  • 66. 131SHOPPING June - July 130 LEISURE Kraków In Your Pocket While Kraków cannot be considered a shoppers’ paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of note include Kazimerz and the open air markets - particularly Plac Targowy (Hala Targowa, E-4). For typical Cracovian souvenirs head to the Cloth Hall in the centre of the main square (C-3): find all manner of glasswork, lace, amber, wood carvings, local sweets and stuffed dragons. For the generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout this section we’ve made a concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international brands and franchises, but unique, home-grown businesses; so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is. As this is PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether. Alcohol & Tobacco Nothing says, ‘I’ve beento Poland’ like a suitcaseofvodka (and maybeadodgymoustache).ThePoleshavebeendistillingand draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can makealegitimateclaimasthespirit’sprimordialhomeland.As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if it’s not to your taste. You can’t walk a block in this city without passing a church and an alcohol shop, so you’ve your choice of temples. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), Żołądkowa Gorzka (bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature gold flakes. That’s quite a shopping list. NEW Strefa Piwa (Beer Zone) I-2, ul. Krowoderska 37, tel. (+48) 12 426 42 54, Next to the solid bar of the same name, this is your go-to place in Kraków for buying and sampling a wide-range (we’re talking hundreds) of delicious beers from all over the world. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00. SzambelanC-3, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, Huge se- lectionofspecialvodkas,meadsandPolishabsinthsdecanted from enormous erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage (or strolling the Planty). Sample first, sample often. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Vinoteka 13 C-3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 50, An elite and elabo- rate selection of wines from all over Italy. Attached is Bar 13, where you can sample a vast majority of them. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Below we’ve tried to identify some uniquely Polish (and/ or Cracovian) gift ideas for everyone on your list: Girlfriend/Wife: Two words: jewellery and chocolate. For the first choose a beautiful piece of ‘Baltic gold’ from World of Amber, and for the second head to Cracow Chocolate Factory for some local sweets that are both artistic and delicious. Boyfriend/Husband: If you really want to spoil your man, head to Wittchen and outfit him in a luxury leather jacket, or perhaps something more practical and afford- able like a hand-made wallet. If hubby has a taste for tipples, head to Szambelan where you can decant one of their exclusive meads, absinthes or flavoured vodkas into a handsome gift bottle. Mother: Amber always wins with women, so stop at World of Amber to pick out a pendant mom will be proud to wear. All moms also love Bolesławiec folk pottery, so head to Dekor Art. Father: As a man matures he needs a good hat, no? The Chorąży hatmaker’s workshop has a surprisingly stylish assortment of hand-made hats that would look great on Dad. Or try Krakowski Antykwariat Naukowy for something old, odd and aesthetic that might be more Dad’s style. If that fails, try what the Poles do when things aren’t working out: vodka. Sister: The appeal of amber will hold true for any woman on your list, or try the natural, monk-made lotions and cosmetics of Produkty Benedyktyńskie. If sis is a bit of a bookworm, head to Massolit’s Polish literature section to pick out something of local interest. Brother: For home boy hit Idea Fix and peruse their collection of locally designed hoodies, t-shirts and other urban gear. If your brother’s more of an intellectual, search for a unique 3-player chess set, or fine-crafted traditional chessboard in the stalls of the Cloth Hall. If the young man’s an artist, pick out an avant-garde Polish film or the- atre poster from the vast collection at Galeria Plakatu. Children: Historically, ‘childhood innocence’ hasn’t been a very long-lived developmental stage amongst Poles. Apparently a privilege of the rich, what few toys there are for sale in PL are outrageously expensive compared to everything else. If the kids are infants, head straight to Bajo for some locally-made wooden toys or Galeria Bukowski for a Cracovian teddy bear. If that fails, candy from Bombonierka will do the trick. Grandparents: The land of babcias has plenty that will please the old folks back home, including linen and lacework from the Cloth Hall, Bolesławiec folk ceramic from Dekor Art or local jarred foodstuffs from Krakowski Kredens. Gift Shopping At a Glance PL’s famous Bolesławiec pottery. Hawana Bar also makes it a popular party destination, organising numerous events throughout the season. To get there take buses 209 or 269 from the Salwator tram roundabout to the ‘Kryspinów Zalew’ stop. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Passes 12/6zł, family tickets 20zł. Car parking 10zł. Stanisław Lem Science Garden (Ogród Doświadczeń) Al. Pokoju 68 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 346 12 85, A fun, interactive educational park for kids named after late, local sci-fi author Stanisław Lem. The 7 hectare park features different stations engaging kids in optical illusions and the laws of physics. Explanations are in English and Polish, and guides (English) are available for an additional 15zł if you call three days in advance. Reserve 90 minutes to visit the park in its entirety and get there from the centre via trams 1, 14 or 22 getting off at the M-1/Al. Pokoju stop. Q Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before clos- ing. Admission 8/5,50zł, children under 7 free. Family ticket 22zł. Combined ticket for the Science Garden and the City Engineering Museum 11/8zł. Cash only. Spa & Beauty Vanilla SPA H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, This luxurious spa in the centre of the new five star Niebieski hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of peels and masks using top of line cosmetics and munch on organic ‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to have the on-hand hands-on experts create your own personal care programme. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Swimming & Diving Kraków Water Park (Park Wodny) L-1, ul. Do- brego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www. The biggest indoor pool complex in Poland includes 800 metres of water slides for all ages, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines, swings and other in-water activites, this incredible aquatic playground is the thing your kid will remember most about Kraków. You won’t have such a bad time yourself with access to saunas, jacuzzis, fitness and wellness centres and a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors try to dunk each other. Prices to the pool vary but are in the range of 14-23zł for one hour, and 48-54zł for day access. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre E-4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz. pl. Authentic Thai massages: improve blood and limphatic circulation, re- lease physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of joints, remove toxins. Performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer: Classical Thai massage, Herbal compresses, Relaxing massage with essential oils, Massage for the physically active, Feet’n’legs reflexology, Back & shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount when you present In Your Pocket. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Massages 100-300zł. Local art market along ul. Pijarska
  • 67. 132 SHOPPING 133SHOPPING Kraków In Your Pocket June - July consoles for rainy days. The basement houses a gener- ally shabby, but also totally unpredictable selection of overpriced CDs and here you can also buy tickets to major concerts and festivals in PL. Also at ul. Podgórska 34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz), ul. Kamieńskiego 11 (Bonarka City Centre) and ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Massolit Books & Café A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, The best English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and Jewish literature in English, here you’ll also find recent English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over coffee and a slice of pie, or even a glass of wine. Stocked with remaindered books from the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and the prices are the best you’ll find anywhere. This legendary establishment has been long- running but constantly needs and deserves support. Still if you’re on a budget you can trade the novel you finished on the train for credit towards a new one. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Fashion & Accessories Chorąży Czapki i Kapelusze D-7, ul. Krakowska 35a, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy. Maybe you aren’t aware, but Polish old man hats are surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get one. Affectionately known as ‘the Hat Guy,’ give Józef the hatmaker a head and he’ll hand you a hand- some, perfectly fitting hat. Bring in your own fabric and he’ll even custom make one for you. With Józef’s name Art & Antiques Art abounds in Kraków, and in addition to the galleries proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work to tourists right on the market square, and along ul. Pijarska on either side of the Floriańska Gate (C/D-2). Remember, if you are taking original art that is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value, you’ll need the proper paperwork and permissions (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper dealers can provide this straight- away, but you may want to check before opening your wallet. Below we list the most interesting commercial art galleries in town; see the Culture section for more cultural art gallery listings. There is no shortage of possibilities for purchasing antiques in Kraków. Serious shoppers will find that the best items end up in the antique stores (‘Antyki,’ ‘Antyk- wariat’) that abound all over Kazimierz and the Old Town with one of the best places to prowl for lost treasure being ulica Józefa (D/E-6) in Kazimierz. Knowledgeable dealers offer prices comparable to those in the rest of Europe, however there are still bargains aplenty in the city’s markets if your interest is more in finding an odd souvenir while having a unique cultural experience than finding an undervalued 19th century artefact. Plac Nowy (D-6) is home to daily junk-peddlers, but the real bounty is revealed during Plac Targowy’s Sunday morning flea market (E-4) where every piece of trash has a price and haggling is compulsory. Galeria Plakatu (Poster Gallery) C-3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal- Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for film and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs for different plays, various propaganda and alternative film posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks. Many are in stock and many more available to order. They make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying a stack of unusual postcards. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Krakowski Antykwariat Naukowy C-2, ul. Sławkowska 6/8, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 43, www. The quintessential Cracovian antique bookshop (‘antykwariat’), this outfit buys and sells old prints, maps, graphic art, manuscripts, postcards, books, letters and more. Ring the bell and head upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Books, Music & Film Austeria E-6, ul. Józefa 38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89, Situated in the historical High Synagogue, Austeria is the largest Jewish bookstore in Kraków, offering literature, history, guide books and more in a number of languages, plus music CDs and tourist information. Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving historical exhibits related to Ju- daica in Kraków. Admission to the exhibit, 9/6zł. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Empik Megastore C-3, Rynek Główny 5, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 68, Right on the market square, Empik is a veritable one-stop shop for books, music, films, video games and more. A sizeable collec- tion of English-language periodicals lives on the ground floor, though the price mark-ups can be shocking. On the upper floors you’ll find guide books, maps and an English language fiction section, as well as video game and his shop’s Cracovian address sewn into each one, these hats make a great gift and keepsake; evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing. And they’re a bargain. Józef doesn’t speak English, but there shouldn’t be much mystery between the two of you; it’s not like you’re trying to draft legislation - it’s a hat, he’s a hat guy. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. IDEA FIX Concept Store E-7, ul. Bocheńska 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 46, The ‘idea’ here is promoting contemporary, young, independent Polish artists and designers - and for once we’re not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hopefully encourage Kraków’s hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption, drop in this expansive and sexy 230m2 concept store just off Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and accessories by independent local designers, Polish films and music, Polish fibre arts, interior design and more. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Wittchen D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel. (+48) 518 02 27 66, One of Poland’s top luxury brands, Wittchen creates high-quality hand-made leather goods, including shoes, jackets, hand bags, gloves, wallets, luggage and more. Each comes with a hologramed ‘Certificate of Authenticity’ proving it’s the real deal. Carried at many shops around Kraków, visit one of the shopping malls to see their company showroom. Also at ul. Podgórska 34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz) and ul. Kamieńskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Kraków’s open-air markets are the best places to get cheap local produce and the only places in the centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. In addition to the legendary Cloth Hall on the market square (C-3, open 10:00- 19:00), practice your “Proszę” and point skills at the unique shopping environments listed below. Keep in mind that while haggling might work at Plac Targowy’s Sunday flea market, it’s uselessly rude at any of the daily market stalls. Expecting vendors to break a 100 złoty note will also be met with utter disdain. Plac Nowy D-6, tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59, www. This historic square was a Jewish market in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher slaughterhouse. Today you’ll still find butcher shops inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce and junk are sold daily. It’s a different, often unpredictable scene on the square each morning, but Saturdays are generally reserved for more junk/antiques and Sundays for clothing, while Tuesday and Friday mornings it’s a full-on rabbit swap and pigeon fair - one of the most bizarre spectacles you can possibly witness if you arrive early enough (ends about 8:00). Markets begin around 5:30 in the morning and generally end by early to mid- afternoon depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined with atmospheric bars. PlacTargowyUnitarg E-4, ul. Grzegórzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.krakow. pl. The city’s best outdoor market, Hala Targowa is open every day for every- thing from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches. Morning is the best time to come and Sunday is undoubtedly the best day of the week to hit the stalls, when it becomes a full-blown sprawling flea market of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, mismatched shoes, stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can dream of at bargain prices. Different vendors set their own hours, but on Sundays most are there at dawn and packing up between 14:00 and 15:00; on weekdays many vendors stay as late as 18:00. At night on Plac Targowy you’ll find 2 24-hour alcky shops and the best grilled kielbasa in town, sold from a van. Stary Kleparz C/D-1, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered, open-air marketplace just north of the Barbakan offers bargain prices and the best selection in the city for local produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the order of the day during your visit. They say they are open until 17:00, but most stalls will have closed up much earlier. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - 16:00. Markets
  • 68. 134 SHOPPING 135SHOPPING Kraków In Your Pocket June - July Food & Sweets Bombonierka D-6, ul. Dietla 45, tel. (+48) 602 21 68 26, Looking straight out of the pages of a fairy tale, if you’re lost in the urban forest this cute little candy-striped sweets shop is certainly worth stopping in on your way to Grandmother’s house. Featuring over 70 different kinds of traditional Polish candies, puffy marshmal- lows, handmade lollipops, chocolate-dipped fruits and more, the cheery mavens here will even let you compose your own chocolate box and there’s no fear of being put in the oven, no matter how much you eat. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Cracow Chocolate Factory B-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 502 09 07 65, www.chocolate.krakow. pl. Wall-length street-front windows with a view into the Wonka-esque workshop lure tourists inside this enormous Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the crafts- men who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is the Cloth Hall in the center of the market square, where prices are surprisingly competitive, or visit any of the many galleries around the Old Town. Boruni Amber Inspirations C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel. (+48) 12 423 10 81, Also inside the Cloth Hall (C-3, stand numbers 23, 29, 36) and in Crown Piast Hotel (ul. Radzikowskiego 109). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. World of Amber C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 14, Also at ul. Floriańska 13 and 22 (C-3), ul. Powiśle 7 (A-5, Sheraton Kraków), and ul. Kamieńskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Amber & Jewellery Gifts & Souvenirs It’s only natural to want to bring something back home from your time in Poland, as well as prove to those who have no idea where the country is that it does indeed exist. Also, if you plan on visiting or staying with a Polish family while here it’s common courtesy to arrive with a gift. While there are chintzy souvenir shops all over the Old Town, the Mecca of them all is the centuries old Cloth Hall (C-3, open 10:00- 19:00) in the middle of the market square. Essentially a huge souvenir market, in the packed stalls you’ll find all sorts of Polish keepsakes including amber jewellery, carved wood, lace and cloth handicrafts and more. For a tourist market the quality is surprisingly high and the prices generally fair, so there’s no shame in shopping there. Below we’ve listed more unique local or national Polish businesses where you can find attractive gifts and feel good about how you are spending your money at the same time. Bajo C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel. (+48) 12 429 14 42, Founded by sculptor, architect, and Jagiel- lonian University professor Wojciech Bajor, this company aims to create natural toys for natural play, without any of the flashing lights or button-pushing that kids of the computer age are already overly inundated with these days. Ranging from colourful vehicles and animals to edu- cational blocks, all of Bajo’s toys are artistically designed entirely out of wood. Ideal for infants and young children and entirely Cracovian. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Dekor Art C-2, ul. Sławkowska 11, tel. (+48) 12 284 15 67. The tag team of Dekor Art and Mila across the street make ul. Sławkowska Kraków’s official Bolesławiec shopping corridor. If you’re not familiar with this well-loved folk ceramic brand, head here straightaway to get intro- duced. Crammed full of colourful dishware with simple, hand-painted and highly-recognisable folk motifs, this bargain shop is sure to help you make someone on your list happy. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 88 55, A Polish-owned worldwide teddy bear kingdom; Polish Paddington needs a home. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Kacper Ryx C-3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. +48 12 426 45 49, One of Kraków’s most interesting gift stores, this small “historical shop” skips the kitsch, instead offering a wide variety of high-quality, hand-made, history-based craft work. Enter via the same door as the Hipolit House museum, and step into what a gift shop may have looked like centuries ago, if there were such a thing: shelves and tables stocked with swords, armour and weaponry; leather flasks, pouches and bags; historical wood- prints and archaeological replicas; beer steins, goblets and pottery; cowls, dresses and other medieval apparel. Prices are fair and items are nicer than much of what you’ll find in the Cloth Hall. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Rock Shop C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ one to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St Mary’s Church. Classic white costs 99zł, black costs 105zł. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 2-floor old-school chocolatier that includes an immaculate shop/showroom and upstairs cafe. With delicious handmade treats in every direction - truffles, pralines, chocolate bars, postcards, figurines and more - Cracow Chocolate Factory perfectly captures that ‘kid in a candyshop’ excitement, and is great for dodging the rain, spoiling the sweet tooth of a date or picking up souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Delikatesy 13 C-3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, Located in the basement of Kraków’s nicest most central shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-made preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are also made daily. With the sheer volume of outstanding goods, Delikatessy 13 is probably one of the most dangerous places you can take your wallet when you’re hungry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Krakowski KredensC-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48) 696 49 00 12, An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite, Galician delica- cies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured meats, candies and pickled things. A warm roll with their sliced pork and mustard from the streetside window is a gourmet street food bargain at only 5-9zł (depending on weight), while we can also recommend the black pudding (kaszanka) and the pork hock (golonka). Also at ul. Kamińskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center) ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska) and the airport. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Produkty Benedyktyńskie (Benedictine Prod- ucts) D-6, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 16, This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment and make excellent gifts. Naturally, you can also get them online or straight from their source: Tyniec Abbey. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Słodki Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, Great for gifts, in this classiccafeandsweetsshopyou’llfindaplethoraofpricey,but gourmet, chocolates, caramels, bon-bons, cakes and biscuits alongside traditional Polish liquors and meads. Some snazzy gift boxes are available for the aesthetically-obsessed; try the edible box made of chocolate if you’re determined to go kitsch shopping on the Rynek. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. FACTORY Outletul. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, 15 minutes from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120 foreign and domestic brands including Levi’s, Reserved, Calze- donia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Solar, Simple and many more. You can get there by catching a free bus from Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) or Rondo Matecznego (I-5). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Galeria KazimierzJ-3, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, Opened in 2005, the success of Galeria Kazimierz marked another step in Kraków’s economic renaissance and rated as the area’s most prestigious mall before the over-blown open- ing of Bonarka. Still the most likeable shopping centre in town, GK boasts over 130 retail units including media giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters H&M, Zara, Simple, Mango, Bershka, Stradivarius and KappAhl, cosmetic specialists Sephora, and revered jewellers W. Kruk, Pandora and Swarovski. The Alma supermarket offers Kraków’s premier selection of food and beverages, while those preferring a sit down meal can choose from the American-themed Jeff’s or Pizza Hut. For recreational needs Galeria Kazimierz also touts a ten screen Cinema City complex with a fitness club underneath it. Situated nexttotheKazimierzdistrictthemalliseasilyaccessedon foot; those arriving by car have 1,600 free parking spaces to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48) 12 428 99 07, Covering 60,000 square metres over three floors, if you arrived in the centre by train it’s unlikely you missed this place: a huge glass and steel shopping Mecca opposite the old stationbuilding,whichasmallsgomakesitoneofthemost centrally located in Europe. GK has helped contribute to the regeneration of an area that once was home to dodgy dwellingsanddealings,andnowhasanewsquareandtrain platformaccess.StoreshousedhereincludeH&M,Peek& Cloppenburg,electronicsgiantSaturn,anenormousCarre- foursupermarketandover260otherretailunits,1400car parking spaces, an entertainment centre and restaurants. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Pasaż 13 C-3, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse was converted into a snazzy shopping area in 2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus Concept Stores. Not your typical shopping mall, Pasaż 13 has 17 designer shops including Dolce&Gabbana, Vero Moda and Miss Sixty. You’ll also find a fine Italian delikatessen and bar (U Louisa) in the cellar. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. While all other shops in Pasaż 13 open at 11:00, Delikatesy 13 and Bar 13 are open from 09:00. Shopping Malls ul. Dietla 45 (On the corner of ul. Krakowska - Kazimierz) 31-054 Kraków mobile + 48 602 216 826 Open: Mon - Fri 11.00 - 18.00 Sat 11.00 - 15.00 AAAAAAAAAnnnnnn uuuuuunnnnnnuuuuuussssssuuuuuuaaaaaaallllllllllllllllllyyyyyy sssssswwwwwweeeeeeeeeeeetttttttt ccccccaaaaaaannnnnndddddddddyyyyyy sssssshhhhhhhhhoooooopppppp
  • 69. 136 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY Kraków In Your Pocket All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides Online Mobile Print Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 633 03 76, Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47, Slovakia D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425 49 70, Sweden B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, UK ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 66, USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00, Dentists Denta-Med J-4, ul. Na Zjeździe 13, tel. (+48) 12 259 80 00, Q Open 24hrs. Emergency Room 5 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny I-1, ul. Wrocławska 1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40, Szpital Uniwersytecki J-2, ul. Kopernika 21, tel. (+48) 12 424 82 77, Genealogy Registry Office (Urząd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1, ul. Lubelska27,tel.(+48)126165515, Private Clinics Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423 38 34, Lux-Med I-5, ul. Wadowicka 6, tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. (+48) 12 266 96 65, Medicover K-3, ul. Podgórska 36, tel. (+48) 500 900 500, Also ul. Bora Ko- morowskiego 25B (Prądnik Czerwony), ul. Bobrzyńskiego 37 (Dębniki). Real Estate Hamilton May A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 426 51 26, Komercel A-1, ul. Karmelicka 48/3a, tel. (+48) 501 48 94 93, Mamdom, Ober-HausRealEstateAdvisorsC-2,ul.Sławkowska 10, tel. (+48) 12 428 17 00, Religious Services Christ the King Church (Chrystus Królem) K-2, ul. Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, Kupa Synagogue D-6, ul. Warszauera 8. St. Giles Church (Kościół Św. Idziego) C-5, ul. Grodzka 67, Q Holy Mass in English each Sunday at 10:30. Translators & Interpreters Anton Fecica B-2, ul. Dunajewskiego 8/11, tel. (+48) 12 422 73 37, Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikołajska 5/9, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 63, 24hr Pharmacies Apteka Dbam o Zdrowie I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18 50, Apteka GallaH-1, ul. Galla 26, tel. (+48) 12 636 73 65. Apteka Pod Opatrznością B-2, ul. Karmelicka 23, tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80. Business Associations American Chamber of Commerce in Kraków ul. Jodłowa 13 (Zwierzyniec), tel. (+48) 660 72 77 46, British Polish Chamber of Commerce B-3, ul. Św. Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, Consulates & Embassies Austria A-9, ul. Cybulskiego 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 99 40, Denmark B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, Finland B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00, Iceland B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 53 50, Japan I-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43 59, Mexico ul. Wiedeńska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12 638 05 58.
  • 70. Agrafka BLU Plac targowy ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków Phone +48 12 430 04 92 English and Italian menu available. “Ci voglio ritornare!” massi by “Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten a better pizza.” Tadeusz Płatek by ul. Sienna 12, Kraków Phone 12 426 49 68 Certificate of Excellence 2012 Recomendation What a hearty introduction to Polish quisine! Stuart Forster, British Guild of travel writers
  • 71. Etap Hilton Garden Kładka Bernatka Węgierska Józefińska Schindler‘s FactoryMOCAK Kopiec KrakusaLiban Quarry Fort Benedict Jerozolimska Galaxy view point
  • 72. 143STREET REGISTER June - July 29 Listopada, Al. J-1 3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3 Akacjowa L-1 Akademicka H-2 Aliny L-1 Altanowa G-1 Ariańska J-2 Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1 Asnyka B-1/2 Augustiańska D-6-7 Bajeczna L-3 Bałuckiego A-6 Bandtkiego F-1 Bandurskiego K-1/2 Barska A/B-6/7 Bartosza E-6 Basztowa C/D-2 Batorego I-2 Beliny-Prażmowskiego, Al. K-1/2 Berka Joselewicza E-5 Bernardyńska B/C-5/6 Biała Droga H-4 Biernackiego H-1 Biskupia B-1 Blachnickiego, ks. J-3 Blich J-3 Bobrowskiego K-3 Boczna H-4 Bohomolca L-1 Bocheńska J-4 Bonerowska E-4 Bonifraterska D-7 Bora-Komorowskiego, gen. K/L-1 Borowego F-2 Bosacka E-1/2 Bożego Ciała D-6/7 Boznańskiej K-1 Bracka C-3/4 Brązownicza F-2 Brodowicza K-1/2 Bronowicka F/G-1 Brzozowa D-5 Bułhaka A-7 Buszka F/G-2 Bydgoska G-1/2 Bytomska H-1 Ceglarska H-5 Celna J-4 Chmielowskiego I/J-4 Chocimska H-1/2 Chodkiewicza J-3 Chodowieckiego G-2 Chopina H-2 Ciemna E-6 Cieszyńska I-1 Cicha F-1 Ćwiklowa F-5 Cybulskiego A-3 Cystersów L-2/3 Czapskich A-3 Czarnieckiego J-4 Czarnowiejska H-2 Czarodziejska G/H-4 Czysta A-2 Czyżówka J-5 Dąbrowskiego, gen. K-4 Dąbska L-2 Dajwór E-6 Daszyńskiego J-3/4 Dębnicka H-4 Dębowa A-7 Dekerta K-4 Dembowskiego J/K-5 Dietla C/E-4/6 Długa C-1 Długosza J-5 Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1 Dolnych Młynów A-2 Dominikańska C-4 Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6 Dunajewskiego B/C-2 Dworska H-4 Dzielskiego K/L-1 Estery D-6 Fabryczna L-2/3 Fałata H-3 Feldmana A-1 Felicjanek A-4 Fenn’a Sereno I-2 Filarecka H-3 Flisacka H-3/4 Floriańska C/D-2/3 Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3 Franciszkańska B/C-4 Friedleina I-1 Galla G/H-1 Garbarska B-2 Garczyńskiego K-2 Garncarska H-2/3 Gazowa E-7 Gęsia K-3 Głowackiego G-1 Goetla G-2 Gołębia B-3 Gontyna G-3 Grabowskiego A-1 Gramatyka G-1 Grodzka C-3/5 Gromadzka L-4/5 Grottgera H/I-1 Grunwaldzka K-1/2 Gryfity G-3 Grzegórzecka E-4 Gzymsików I-1 Halicka J-3/4 Helclów I-1 Herlinga-Grudzińskiego K-4 Heweliusza L-5 Hofmana F-3 Humberta H-3 Igrców G-2 Ingardena H-3 Izaaka D/E-6 Jabłonowskich H/I-3 Jadwigi z Łobzowa F/G-1 Jagiellońska B-2/3 Jachowicza L-2 Jakuba E-6 Jaskółcza H-3 Joselewicza J-3 Józefa D/E-6 Józefitów H-1 Kadecka G-1 Kalwaryjska I/J-5 Kamienna I/J-1 Kamieńskiego I/J-5 Kanonicza C-4/5 Kapelanka H-4/5 Kapucyńska A/B-3 Karłowicza H-2 Karmelicka A/B-1/2 Kasztelańska G/H-3 Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1 Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1 Kielecka K-1/2 Kiełkowskiego K/L-4 Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2 Kilińskiego A-7 Klimeckiego K/L-4 Kmieca H-1 Kobierzyńska H-5 Kochanowskiego A-1/2 Koletek C-6 Kołłątaja E-3 Komandosów I-4/5 Konarskiego H-2 Konfederacka A-7 Konopnickiej A/B-5/7 Konwisarzy F-1/2 Kopernika D/E-3 Kordylewskiego K-2/3 Kościuszki H-3 Kosynierów L-2 Kotlarska K-3 Koźlarska L-5 Krakowska D-6/7 Krasickiego I-5 Krasińskiego, Al. H-3 Kraszewskiego H-3 Kredowa F-5 Kremerowska A-1 Królewska H-1 Królowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3 Krótka C-1 Krowoderska C-1 Krupnicza A/B-2/3 Krzemionki J-5 Krzesławicka L-1 Krzywa C-1 Krzywda L-4/5 ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7 Księcia Józefa F/G-4 Kujawska H-1 Kupa E-6 Kurkowa J-2 Kurniki D-1 Kwartowa L-1 Lanckorońska K-5 Lea F/H-1/2 Legionów Piłsudskiego J-4/5 Lenartowicza H/I-1/2 Leszczynowa F-3 Lewkowa E-6 Limanowskiego J/K-4 Lipowa K-4 Litewska H-1 Loretańska A-2/3 Lubelska I-1 Lubicz D/E-2 Lublańska K-1 Lubomirskiego J/K-2 Ludowa K-5 Ludwinowska I-4/5 Lwowska J-K/4 Łobzowska B-1/2 Madalińskiego A-6 Mała A-4 Malczewskiego F/G-3-4 Mały Rynek C-3 Masarska K-3 Matejki, Pl. I/J-2 Mazowiecka H/I-1 Meiselsa D-6 Metalowców E-3/4 Mickiewicza, Al. H-2 Michałowskiego A-1/2 Michałowskiego H/I-2 Mikołajska C/D-3 Miodowa D/E-5/6 Mitery I-5 Mlaskotów H-3 Młyńska K-1 Mogilska K/L-1/2 Moniuszki K-2 Monte Cassino A-7 Montelupich I-1 Mosiężnicza K-2 Mostowa D/E-7 Na Gródku D-3 Na Przejściu E-6 Na Szaniec L-3 Na Ustroniu I-4 Na Zjeździe J-4 Nadwislanska J-4 Nawojki G-2 Oboźna H-1 Odlewnicza F-1/2 Odrowąża I-1 Ofiar Dąbia L-3 Ogrodowa D-1 Oleandry H-2/3 Olszańska K-1 Orawska I-5 Orzeszkowej C-6/7 Owcy-Orwicza F-3 Paderewskiego C/D-1 Paproci L-4 Parkowa J-5 Patynów G-4 Paulińska C-6/7 Pawia D-1/2 Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5 Pędzichów I-1/2 Piastowska F/G-1/3 Piekarska C/D-7 Pietrusińskiego G-4/5 Pijarów K/L-1 Pijarska C/D-2 Piłsudskiego A/B-3/4 Piwna J-4 Pl. Bawół E-6 Pl. Bernardyński C-5 Pl. Biskupi B/C-1 Pl. Bohaterów Getta J-4 Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3 Pl. Inwalidów H-2 Pl. Kossaka A-5 Pl. Mariacki C-3 Pl. Matejki D-1/2 Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5 Pl. Nowy D-6 Pl. Słowiański C-1 Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5 Pl. Szczepański B-2 Pl. Św. Ducha D-2 Pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny C-4 Pl. Wolnica D-7 Pl. Wszytkich Świętych C-4 Płaszowska L-4 Pod Kopcem F-3 Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5 Podbrzezie J-3 Podbrzezie D-5/6 Podgórska E-7 Podchorążych G-1 Podskale I/J-5 Podwale B-2/3 Podzamcze B/C-5 Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3 Półkole L-3 Pomorska H-1 Portowa K/L-4 Poselska B/C-4 Powiśle A/B-5 Powroźnicza A-6 Powstańców Śląskich, Al. J/K-5 Powstańców Wielkopolskich, Al. K/L-4/5 Powstania Warszaw. Al. K-2/3 Prądnicka I-1 Prandoty J/K-1 Praska G/H-4 Prusa H-3 Przedwiośnie I-4/5 Przemysłowa K-4 Przybyszewskiego F-1 Pułaskiego A-6/7 Racławicka H-1 Radziwiłłowska E-2/3 Rajska A-2 Rakowicka J/K-1/2 Reformacka A/B-2 Rękawka J/K-4 Retoryka A-4 Reymana G-2 Reymonta G/H-2 Rodackiego J/K-5 Różana A-6 Ruczaj F/G-5 Rybaki I/J-4 Rybna L-4/5 Rynek Dębnicki A-6 Rynek Główny C-3 Rynek Kleparski C/D-1 Rynek Podgórski J-4 Rzeszowska E-6 Rzeźnicza K-3 Sądowa K-2 Salezjańska G/H-5 Salwatorska H-3 Sandomierska A/B-6 Sarego C/D-4/5 Saska L-4/5 Senacka C-4 Senatorska H-3 Siedleckiego E-4/5 Siemieńskiego G/H-1 Siemiradzkiego A-1 Sienkiewicza H-1 Sienna C-3/4 Skałeczna C/D-7 Skalica F-5 Skarbińskiego G-1 Skawińska C/D-7 Skłodowskiej-Curie D/E-3 Skwerowa A-7 Sławkowska C-2/3 Słomiana H-4/5 Słoneckiego K-1 Słonecznikowa F-3 Słowackiego, Al. H/I-1 Smocza B-6 Smoleńsk A/B-4 Smolki I/J-5 Sobieskiego I-2 Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1 Sołtyka E-3/4 Spasowskiego A/B-1 Spiżowa F-1/2 Starowiślna D/E-4/6 Staszica I-1 Stawarza J-5 Stefana Batorego A/B-1 Stoczniowców L-4 Stolarska C-3/4 Stradomska C/D-5/6 Straszewskiego I-3 Strzelców K-1 Strzelecka E-2 Studencka A/B-3 Sukiennicza C-6 Supniewskiego K-1/2 Swoszowicka J-5 Symfoniczna H-2 Syrokomli H-3 Szablowskiego F-1 Szafera K-2/3 Szczepańska B/C-2/3 Szenwalda L-1/2 Szeroka E-6 Szewska B-2/3 Szklarska L-4 Szlachtowskiego G-1 Szlak I/J-1 Szpitalna C/D-2/3 Szwedzka H-4 Szymanowskiego H-2 Śląska I-1 Śliska I-5 Ślusarska K-4 Śniadeckiego J-3/4 Św. Agnieszki C-6 Św. Anny B-3 Św. Bronisławy G-3 Św. Filipa C/D-1 Św. Gertrudy C/D-4/5 Św. Idziego C-5 Św. Jacka H-5 Św. Jana C-2/3 Św. Katarzyny D-6/7 Św. Krzyża D-3 Św. Łazarza J-3 Św. Marka C/D-2/3 Św. Sebastiana C/E-5 Św. Stanisława C-7 Św. Teresy I-1 Św. Tomasza B/D-2/3 Św. Wawrzyńca D/E-6/7 Świętokrzyska I-1 Tenczyńska B-4 Tkacka H-2 Topolowa J-2 Toruńska G-2 Traugutta K-4 Trynitarska D/E-7 Twardowskiego H-5 Tyniecka F/H-4/5 Urzędnicza H-1/2 Wadowicka I-5 Wałowa K-4 Wandy K-3 Warmijska G-1 Warszauera D/E-6 Warszawska D-1 Wasilewskiego A-7 Wąska E-6 Waszyngtona G-3 Węglowa D-7 Wenecja A-3 Westerplatte D-2/3 Widok L-3 Wielopole J-3 Wierzbowa I-4 Wietora I-4 Wioślarska G-4 Wiślna B-3 Władysława Łokietka I-1 Włościańska F-1 Wodna L-5 Wodociągowa F-4 Wójtowska H-1 Wolnica, Pl. J-4 Worcela D-2 Wróblewskiego I-1/2 Wrocławska H/I-1 Wrzesińska E-4 Wyczółkowskiego G/H-3 Wygoda A-4 Wyspiańskiego H-1 Zacisze D-1/2 Zakątek H-1 Zamenhofa D/E-2 Zamkowa A-6 Zarzecze F-1 Zatorska I-4/5 Zaułek K-4 Zegadłowicza A-4 Zielińskiego, gen. G/H-4 Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5 Zwycięstwa L-2/3 Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4 Zygmunta Augusta J-2 Żelazna J-1 Żółkiewskiego K-3
  • 73. 144 Kraków In Your Pocket LISTINGS INDEX Amadeus 30 Amber 30 andel's Hotel Cracow 30 Apartment Cracow 28 Apartmenthouse Grodzka 28 Ascot Hotel 33 B&B La Fontaine 28 Best Western Kraków Old Town 30 Campanile 33 Classic 33 Copernicus 28 Eden 33 Francuski 30 Galaxy 31 Grand 28 Greg & Tom Beer House 28 Gródek 28 Hilton Garden Inn Kraków 31 Holiday Inn Krakow City Center 28 Hotel Kazimierz 33 Hotel Kazimierz II 33 Hotel Kossak 31 Hotel Stary 29 Hotel Unicus 31 Chopin Cracow 33 Ibis Budget Kraków Bronowice 35 Ibis Budget Kraków Stare Miasto 35 Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto 34 Karmel 34 Matejko 31 Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA 29 Novotel Kraków Centrum 31 Park Inn by Radisson Andersa, al., gen. M/N-1/3 Artystów N-3 Bardosa T-4 Batalionu Parasol M-1 Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen. M-2/3 Bulwarowa P/R-1/4 Centralny, pl. N/O-3 Cerchów P-4 Daniłowskiego R-4 Gajocha O-3/4 Gardy-Godlewskiego, płk. O-2/3 Jana Pawła II, al. M/R-3/4 Klasztorna R-5 Kleinera T-1 Kocmyrzowska M/N-1 Lehra-Spławińskiego T-1 Ludźmierska N-1/2 Łempickiego S-1 Mierzwy O/R-3/4 Mościckiego O/P-1 Krakow 31 Pod Różą 31 Pod Wawelem 34 Pollera 34 Polski Pod Białym Orłem 32 Qubus Hotel Kraków 32 Radisson Blu 29 Royal 34 Rubinstein Residence 32 Ruczaj 34 Senacki 32 Sheraton Kraków 29 The Secret Garden Hostel28 Tournet 35 Wawel 35 Wentzl 32 Wielopole 35 Wyspiański 35 Alebriche 53 Amadeus 40 Amarone 42 Amarone 46 Andromeda 40 Aperitif 41 Aperitif 42 Aqua e Vino 46 Ariel 52 Augusta 63 Bagelmama 36 Balaton 39 Bar Smak 54 Bar Targowy 64 Barka Food, Life, Music 63 Bombaj Tandoori 40 Boscaiola 46 C.K. Browar 54 Cafe Młynek 64 Obrońców Krzyża N-1 Orkana P/R-3 Padniewskiego, bp. M-4 Przyjaźni, al. N/O-2/3 Ptaszyckiego R/T-4/5 Róż, al. O-1/2 Rydza-Śmigłego, marsz. M/P-1/2 Sieroszewskiego P/R-5 Solidarności, al. O/T-1/3 Stalowa O-1 Struga P-2 Tomickiego, bp. M-3/4 Ujastek T-1 Ujastek Mogilski T-2/4 Wańkowicza S-1 Wąwozowa S-1 Wiśniowy Sad M-2 Wojciechowskiego P-1 Zachemskiego P-4/5 Zuchów P-3/4 Żeromskiego O/P-1/2 Casa Juan 63 Ceska Chodba 38 COCA 50 Copernicus 41 Corner Burger 46 Cyrano de Bergerac 38 Czerwone Korale 54 Da Pietro 48 Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 52 Deli Bar 39 Diego & Bohumil 38 Diego & Bohumil 52 Dynia Resto Bar 41 Europejska 41 Fabryka Pizzy 48 Farina 53 Ganesh 40 Glonojad 64 Grande Grill 36 Green Way 64 Hamsa 46 Hard Rock Cafe 36 Hawełka 42 Hawełka 54 Horai 36 Chimera Salad Bar 50 Chłopskie Jadło 54 Il Calzone 48 Indus Tandoor 40 Jarema 56 Karma 64 Kawaleria Szarża Smaku 56 Kaze 51 Klezmer Hois 52 Kogel Mogel 56 Koji 51 Kuchnia i Wino 42 Kura 51 La Campana Trattoria 48 La Fontaine 39 Love Krove 46 Mamma Mia 48 Manzana 52 Marcello 49 Marmolada 56 Milano Ristorante 49 Milkbar Tomasza 56 Miód i Wino 42 Miód i Wino 57 Miód Malina 57 Moaburger 46 Momo 65 Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club 46 Morskie Oko 57 Musso Sushi 51 Pierogi Mr. Vincent 57 Pimiento 53 Pod Aniołami 57 Pod Baranem 60 Pod Norenami 65 Pod Osłoną Nieba 50 Pod Różą 42 Pod Temidą 64 Pod Wawelem 60 Polakowski 60 Portofino 53 Ratuszowa 49 Raw Organic 65 Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim 42 Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim 60 Restauracja Unicus 42 Resto Bar Kipi 42 Resto Illuminati 42 Samui 63 Scandale Royal 44 Smak Ukraiński 64 Smakołyki 61 SomePlace Else 36 HOTELS RESTAURANTS Nowa Huta Street Register P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino H Conference facilities T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled R Internet L Guarded parking F Fitness centre G No smoking K Restaurant X Smoking room available D Sauna C Swimming pool E Live music W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly S Take away I Fireplace J Old Town location Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery Symbol Key
  • 74. 146 Kraków In Your Pocket Spółdzielnia Organic Resto & Take-away 65 Stara Zajezdnia 61 Starka 61 Studio Qulinarne 44 Szara 44 Szara Kazimierz 44 The Mexican 54 The Piano Rouge 44 Tradycyja 45 Trufla 45 Trzy Papryczki 49 Trzy Rybki 45 U Babci Maliny 61 U Stasi 50 U Ziyada 45 Vanilla Sky 45 Vega 65 Warsztat 53 Wentzl Magda Gessler 62 Wesele 62 Wierzynek 62 Wiśniowy Sad 62 Yellow Dog 38 ZaKładka - Food & Wine 39 Zazie Bistro 39 Zdybanka 62 Bal 66 Bococa 66 Cafe Szał 66 Europejska 66 Le Scandale 66 Manzana 66 Met Cafe & Brasserie 66 Moment Resto 66 Camelot 67 Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 67 Cheder 68 Cukiernia Michalscy 68 Jama Michalika 68 Karma Coffee Roasters 68 Mamy Cafe 68 Massolit Books & Café 69 Noworolski 69 Royal Art Cafe 69 Satori Cafe-Bistro 69 Sky Bar 69 Słodki Wawel 69 Tektura 69 Alchemia 78 Ambasada Śledzia 75 Antycafe 70 Artefakt Cafe 78 Baccarat 74 BaniaLuka 75 Baroque 70 Baroque 74 base music club 74 Beer Gallery - Luxury 70 Bomba 70 Budda Drink & Garden 71 Bull Pub 71 Bunkier Cafe 71 Burlesque 74 C.K. Browar 71 Cafe & Club Kalashnikov 78 Cień 75 Diva Music Gallery 75 Dym 71 Eszeweria 78 Frantic 75 Gold Club 77 Gorączka 75 Gospoda Koko 74 Hard Rock Cafe 72 House Of Beer 72 Irish Mbassy 72 Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski 74 Kitsch 76 Kitsch 79 Klub Piękny Pies 79 Klub Re 72 Le Scandale 78 Les Couleurs 78 Literki 79 Lizard King 72 Miejsce 78 Ministerstwo 76 Mleczarnia 78 Moment 79 Mostowa Art Cafe 79 Movida Cocktail Bar 72 Omerta 79 Pauza 72 Piec'Art 72 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 75 Pod Papugami Irish Pub 73 Prozak 2.0 76 Rozrywki Trzy 76 Scandale Royal 74 Shakers Kraków 77 Singer 79 SomePlace Else 73 Spazio 73 Społem 77 Stalowe Magnolie 72 Święta Krowa 73 Taawa 79 Taboo Gentlemen's Club 77 The Piano Rouge 72 U Muniaka 72 Zapiecek Ekspres 74 Adult Entertainment 77 Barbican 84 Beer Gardens 70 Błonia Meadow 129 Breakfast 66 Burgers 46 Cloth Hall 88 Cracovian Cooking A-O 58 Cracovian Cooking P-Z 59 Currency Exchange 136 Dining At A Glance 36 Dishing Up History 90 Facts & Figures 15 Father Bernatek Footbridge 100 Gift Shopping At a Glance 131 Guided Tours 85 Have Your Say 65 Jagiellonian University 8 Kraków Historical Timeline 80 Krakus Mound 102 Lady With an Ermine 95 Lajkonik 68 Language Smarts 17 Late Night Eats 74 Liban Quary 106 Lunch 42 Main Market Square 86 Market Values 16 Memories of Lenin 115 Milk Bars 64 Nicolaus Copernicus 9 Nightlife At A Glance 70 Out of Centre 90 Plac Nowy 98 Plac Wolnica 97 Polish Desserts 67 Polish Snacks & Shots 75 Polish Vodka 76 Quick Eats 50 Riverboat Dining 63 Rynek Underground 92 Słowacki Theatre 84 Sonderaktion Krakau 8 Station History 12 The Hejnał 81 The Obwarzanek 54 The Wawel Chakra 93 The Zbruch Idol 93 Features Index LISTINGS INDEX CAFÉS NIGHTLIFE