Street fashion and subculture:  past present and future
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Street fashion and subculture: past present and future

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this presentation gives a bird's eye view of various subcultures and street-styles. the pictures in most of the slides are taken from the iconic book "streetstyles" by my guru Ted Polhemus ...

this presentation gives a bird's eye view of various subcultures and street-styles. the pictures in most of the slides are taken from the iconic book "streetstyles" by my guru Ted Polhemus (www.tedpolhemus.com)... contact me for more details/ discussion or read his books (available at Amazon)

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Street fashion and subculture:  past present and future Street fashion and subculture: past present and future Presentation Transcript

  • We are the only species which consciously, deliberately alters its appearance . This has been true throughout human history and will always be so because bodily expression can communicate things which words never can. Far from a superficial, insignificant medium of expression, the customized body lies at the heart of human nature and capability. – Ted Polhemus PROLOGUE
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  • ATTITUDE …
  • RITUAL …
  • IDENTITY …
  • PERSONAL VISION …
  • Human beings have always used their appearance as personal advertising - a calling card signaling who we are and where we are at. As our world grows ever more complex and fragmented, the importance of appearance grows ever greater: our visible differences and similarities facilitating interaction and relationships…. Hence the STYLETRIBES appear
  • STREET FASHION SUBCULTURES & STYLETRIBES PAST…PRESENT…FUTURE [email_address] +994 117 117 3 www.nift.com
  • Streetstyles are born in street (and suburbs) and hibernates in street (and suburbs). The followers may change their mind … but the styles and attitudes will not. Where the Styles originate?
  • The urge of being authentic creates a subculture Oozing through their cloths, hairstyles, make-ups, tattoos & accessories are the attitude . This attitude shows their commitments to the styletribe or subculture they belong to, and this subcultures by anyway, never changes their looks with ever changing moods or modes of mainstream fashion.
  • Why people joins in a subculture: “ We are authentic” “ our club” “ Hate Government” “ Fight against common odds” “ secrecy and dark side” “ creative addiction” “ craze”
  • What inspires to develop a subculture: Society Economy Movies Animations Comic strips intellectual and cultural climate Music movements Addiction Fantasy Myth Innovation / Discovery Disaster Calamity
  • Why a certain number of GANG MEMBERS gather in to form a Styletribe or Subculture : Because, their AIO matches. AIO = Attitude + Interests+ Opinions
  • Innovators Early Adopters Majority Late Adopters Laggards FASHION LEADERS FASHION FOLLOWERS T I M E Number Of Adopters DIFFUSION CURVE : SPREAD OF INNOVATION THROUGH A SOCIAL OR SUBCULTURAL SYSTEM
  • How long a subculture exists: “ FOREVER” sometimes ahead of fashion … Sometimes in fashion … Sometimes out of fashion … But it exists FOREVER
  • Afrocentrism Black Metal Inner Circle Bohemianism Conspiracy theorists Deaf culture Backpackers Fandom Furry fandom Otaku Trekkie folkies Freak scene Gamer Greens Hacker US Rave culture) Graffiti artists Import scene Nerd Cybers Demoscene Disco Emo Goths Greasers Grungers Hip hop culture Thugs/Gangstas B-boys Graffiti artists Blingers Hippies Hipsters Metalheads Nazi-metalheads Mods New Romantics Pachuco Punk subculture Rude boys Skate punks Raggare Rave scene Rivetheads Trojan Skinheads Gay skinheads Nazi-Skinheads Straight edge Hard-liners Swing Kids Teds Zazou Swinging Chavs Sloanes Townie Urbanites Computer art scene Bills New Age culture Nudists Biker gangs such as the Hell's Angels Body modification and tattoo subcultures vampire subculture Vegans Vegetarians BDSM subculture Queer culture Sexual fetish subculture Leather subculture Rockabillies Psychobillies Rockers Scooterboys Skinheads Anarcho-skinheads Punk-skinheads Red-Skinheads LIST OF SUBCULTURES :
  • What is style surfing: “ Not belonging to one subculture forever” “ Earlier I was Punk… Now being Goth… Tomorrow I may be seen with Primitives…”
  • A remarkable social and cultural inversion has occurred in the last fifty years: where once culture was the monopoly of the upper classes , it now, more often than not, bubbles up from those on the ‘wrong side of the tracks’ . This transformation has been especially evident in the world of style - with the authenticity of streetstyle challenging and then toppling the dictatorship of High Fashion.
  • NOW…
  • Tell me who’s Authentic… Couture or Street ?
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  • DIY
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  • The true is made false, the symbolic is made arbitrary and the authentic is made into fashion Ted Polhemus
  • PAST
  • Zooties Cowboys Bikers
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  • BIKER GATHERING 1998
  • Beats Teddy boys Rockabilly
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  • Surfers Mods Folkies
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  • Rockers Psychedelics Hippies
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  • Skin heads Funk Glam
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  • Rastafarians Headbangers Skaters
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  • Punk Goth Casuals
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  • Punks 2003
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  • Psychobillies Pervs Raggamuffins & Bhangra style
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  • New Age Travelers Ravers Acid Jazz
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  • Environmental Protest Group Modern Primitives Hiphop
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  • Hiphop
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  • PRESENT
  • As in pop music, the predominant tendency in appearance style today relies upon sampling & mixing diverse, eclectic, often contradictory elements into a unique, personal statement. Celebrating the confusion and diversity of our age, we surf through both history and geography to find our own reality - in the mix.
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  • Grunge
  • Islaja (27) and Lussu (28) Islaja : "I'm wearing my mother's old wedding dress. The bag is a souvenir from Moscow. Cycling wearing a mini-skirt and French soundtracks inspire me." Lussu : "I love all my treasures found at second hand markets. Last week I made real findings at a dust-bin. Like a dress with church tower prints."
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  • "I like all colors. I don't like tight trousers or too short skirts. I think there's no point in buying new clothes. In five years I'll still have the same look."
  • Henna (18) "I'm wearing exceptionally lots of second hand now. The shoes used to belong to my grandmother. I like black-and-white, it clarifies the style. Before I liked bright colours but now I'm into darker tints. The Pope is stylish. I like the pompous style of the Roman Catholic Church."
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  • Anni (14) "I bought my shoes from a shop and decorated them with pearls. When you make clothes yourself or customize them, you get exactly the clothes you want. I'm coming from Comics Festival. That inspired me to dress up colorfully. Japanese street styles inspire me, too. I would like to be a fashion designer or an artist."
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  • Sanna (21) and Jussi (20) Sanna : "My favorite brands are Tiia Vanhatapio, House of Björnberg, Dior Homme and Acne. Vintage is my obsession. I like strong, even exaggerated contrasts: old/new, cheap/expensive, black/white..." Jussi : "I'm wearing a hand made sweater from UFF, self made printed tank top and J.Lindeberg jeans. Lately I was inspired by boredom: It made me design the print on my top."
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  • “ NOW ANTI-FASHION IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN FASHION” “ I do read lots of fashion magazines - from all over the world. But fashion ain’t what it used to be. Today new trends are at least as likely to ‘bubble up’ from street level as they are to ‘trickle down’ from High Fashion . The implications of this for marketing and advertising are obvious - demanding a more unbiased and sociological approach than that typically provided by the fashion/style/design media. “
  • NEAR-FUTURE
  • Techno punk Cyber punk
  • Metal is off-course better than meat
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  • CYBORG
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  • Cyberpunk is a sub-genre, noted for its focus on "high tech and low life" and taking its name from the combination of cybernetics and punk . It features advanced science such as information technology and cybernetics, coupled with a degree of breakdown or a radical change in the social order.
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  • Postcyberpunk… Postcyberpunk describes a subgenre of science fiction which some critics suggest has evolved from classic cyberpunk . Like its predecessor, postcyberpunk focuses on technological developments in near-future societies, typically examining the social effects of an ubiquitous datasphere of computerized information, genetic engineering and modification of the human body, and the continued impact of perpetual technological change . Unlike "classic" cyberpunk, however, the works in this category feature characters who act to improve social conditions or at least protect the status quo from further decay .
  • FUTURE
  • Transhumanism is an international intellectual and cultural movement supporting the use of new sciences and technologies to enhance human cognitive and physical abilities and ameliorate what it regards as undesirable and unnecessary aspects of the human condition, such as disease and aging. Transhumanist thinkers study the possibilities and consequences of developing and using human enhancement techniques and other emerging technologies for these purposes. Possible dangers, as well as benefits, of powerful new technologies that might radically change the conditions of human life are also of concern to the transhumanist movement
  • Bio punk . . . Mutants
  • Differences between Cyber punk and Bio punk : Unlike cyberpunk,Bio punk builds not on information technology but on biology . Individuals are enhanced not by mechanical means, but by human genetic engineering .
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    • Videodrome (1983)
    • · Innerspace (1987)
    • · Tetsuo: The Iron Man (1988)
    • Tetsuo II: Body Hammer (1992)
    • · Naked Lunch (1991)
    • · Genocyber (1993) anime
    • · Crash (1996)
    • · MD Geist (1996) anime
    • · Gattaca (1997)
    • · eXistenz (1999)
    • · Minority Report (2002) -- The precogs were the result of genetic mistakes
    • · Resident Evil (2002)
    • · Code 46 (2003)
    • · Aeon Flux (2005)
    • · UltraViolet (2006)
    • · Children of Men (2006)…not yet released
    Movies… inspired by the Biopunk theory :
  • Thanks For not sleeping… NO SLIDES TO BE COPIED PRESENTED OR PUBLISHED IN ANY ELECTRONIC OR PRINT MEDIA WITHOUT PRIOR PERMISSION FROM KAUSTAV SENGUPTA UNAUTHORISED COPY WILL ATTRACT LEGAL ACTION UNDER INDIAN AND USA COPYRIGHT LAW
  • FURTHER REFERENCES
  • WEBSITES : Japanese street fashion www.japaneselifestyle.com.au/ fashion/japanese_street_fashion.html Selected street fashion from Helsinki, Finland. www.hel-looks.com Toronto street fashion photos, fashion news and trends, fashion industry forum and Toronto event listings... www.torontostreetfashion.com Shop street fashion trendy clothing urban clothing tops, tees, tanks, shirts, skirts, beauty products, makeup and accessories from Japan, Hong Kong, Korea. www.onatoko.com London designer interviews and runway archive, photo shoots, street style, weekly updated news and a fashion clinic. www.fuk.co.uk
    • Selected Readings :
    • MAGAZINES
    • Fashion News – Tokyo, Japan
    • The Face – London
    • Duo – London
    • Baaschix – Florida, USA
    • Blow – London
    • Dazed & Confused – London
    • G Spot : the electronic lifestyle magazine – London
    • i-D Magazine – London
    • U.H.F – USA
    • Zeitgeist – London
    • Blue – Sydney
    • Groovy Britains Magazine – London
    • Sin Magazine – Melbourne, Australia
    • Don’t tell it – USA
    • Village – Italy
    • Skin II - USA
    • Selected Readings :
    • BOOKS
    • The Black Leather Jacket - Mick Farren, London 1985
    • Fashion & Anti Fashion - Lynn Procter, London 1978
    • Skinheads - Nick Knight, London 1982
    • Urban Rhythms: Pop music and popular culture - Lian Chambers, London 1985
    • A History of Men’s Fashion - Farid Chenoune, Paris 1993
    • Today there are no gentleman - Cohn Nick, London 1989
    • Mods! – Barnes Richard, London 1991
    • Subculture: The Meaning of Style - Lain Chambers, London 1979
    • Futura Shock –Jim McClellan, NYC 1992
    • Postmodernism: The Twilight of the Real - Neville Wakefield, London 1990
    • Rebirth of Punk – StudioVoice - Tokyo
    • With special thanks to Ted who has helped me
    • through out the span of my street life to find out
    • the actual meaning of STREET
  • Kaustav SenGupta Asst. Professor & Centre Coordinator Department of Fashion & Lifestyle Accessories National Institute of Fashion Technology Chennai Regional Representative (South) Leather Design Centre CLE-ILGA-NIFT project Internal Design Consultant (IDC) Design Studio- SGSY Cluster +9941171173 [email_address] PART OF THIS PRESENTATION IS PUBLISHED IN SKIN II MAGAZINE USA – ISSUE 102