TEXTILLEGPROM Fashion trends rappiort F/W 2012


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The fashion report was presented on 28th September 2011 at the All-Russia Exhibition Centre (Hall 75), Moscow, Russia hosted the 37th Federal Trade Fair “TEXTILLEGPROM” – the largest exhibition in Russia and the CIS countries for textile and light industry goods and equipment, functioning in B2B format and covering the entire spectrum of products and services of this economic sector.

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TEXTILLEGPROM Fashion trends rappiort F/W 2012

  1. 1. National Institute of Fashion For Federal Trade Fair "TEXTILLEGPROM" Moscow , September 2011
  2. 2. <ul><li>The most of the fashion trend forecasting services make reports on global fashion trends, industry news and consumer insights, trade fairs, retail destinations, major runway shows. However most of them don’t have clear vision of national fashion features and cultural influences on trends and fashion. Meanwhile, this is the most important part today, when budgets are very tight in the fashion industry. This is the subject of interest of manufacturers oriented for domestic market in Russia. Therefore, </li></ul><ul><li>first we make our fashion trends forecasting directly for the Russian manufacturers with strong highlights. Our report is based on the scrupulous statistical data analysis of street fashions of major cities in Russia. </li></ul><ul><li>Secondly, we separately analyze all aspects of fashion design: silhouettes, shape of key items that influencing these silhouettes, color, print, texture of fabrics, and accessories. </li></ul><ul><li>Our research has been done with a consideration of the preference patterns of various ages and needs of consumers, which is so important in planning of an apparel collection. </li></ul><ul><li>Our studio consists of one of the best team of designers and trend analysts in Russia. That is why NIM has been invited to hold seminars at various trade shows and events and seasonally presented at “TEXTILLEGPROM” – the largest exhibition in Russia and the CIS countries for textile and light industry goods, functioning in B2B format and covering the entire spectrum of products and services of this economic sector: </li></ul><ul><li>http://www.textillegprom.ru/en/the_fair/news_releases/ </li></ul><ul><li>http://www.textillegprom.ru/about_the_fair/business_program/kalagova.php </li></ul>
  3. 3. Content: <ul><li>Runway trends influence the Russian market in F/W’ 2012-13 </li></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Image </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Silhouette </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Key items </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Color </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Texture, structure, and textile design </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Accessories </li></ul></ul></ul>
  4. 4. The different age groups of the customers have their own preferences, which is of importance in design of collection. In this presentation we analyze: AGE GROUPS Youth group ( age 20-35) Middle age group (35-55) Elderly age group (55 and upwards)
  5. 5. Image
  6. 6. <ul><li>Way of the Warrior </li></ul><ul><li>associated with </li></ul><ul><li>Zen philosophy </li></ul><ul><li>Independent </li></ul><ul><li>Goal-oriented </li></ul><ul><li>Disciplined </li></ul><ul><li>Sophisticated </li></ul>Debt to Nature Max Mara
  7. 7. Anglo-Saxon or Scandinavian image Collections were created for independent and strong woman as in previous seasons. However today her image comes closer to the Nature . Her look recalls Anglo-Sax and Scandinavian types. Her lifestyle and mentality are reminiscent of Northern epic heroes and Vikings, from whom comprehension of fatal magic female force has come to us. Kenzo
  8. 8. Andrej Pejic DELUXE CAVE Woman
  9. 9. Ralph Ruccci Chanel Austerity and self-sufficiency in combination with business style It is image of a woman who’s overcome cataclysms of 2012. She combines wild cat plastic with terminator endurance.
  11. 11. ENGLISH ARISTOCRATISM Elegance and bon tone are the major qualities of the Lady Moschino Chanel Ralph Lauren
  13. 13. Silhouette
  14. 14. Silhouettes usage statistical data over fall/winter 2011-12 season in Russia Silhouette Youth group 57% 9% 16% 14% 4% Middle age 53% 12% 14% 16% 5% Elderly age 54% 13% 10% 23% -
  15. 15. RECTANGULAR SILHOUETTE « FROM BOYFRIEND SHOULDER » <ul><li>Volume enlargement of the silhouette </li></ul><ul><li>Sloping shoulders accentuate silhouette bulkiness </li></ul><ul><li>Whole silhouette is divided as 1 to 1 or 1 to 2 </li></ul>Jil Sander Celine
  16. 16. “ from boyfriend shoulder” SILHOUETTE ON RUSSIAN STREETS
  17. 17. Classic rectangular silhouette <ul><li>The shape becomes more flexible due to the quality of fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>The basic length is maxi or hardly bellow a knee line </li></ul><ul><li>Silhouette becomes elongated and it‘s width slightly increases </li></ul>Jean Paul Gaultier Diesel Black Gold Calvin Klein
  19. 19. <ul><li>Waistline at its natural place </li></ul><ul><li>Smooth and pure shapes </li></ul><ul><li>Garments are noticeably narrowed downwards that underlined elegance of forms </li></ul>Celine SEMI-FITTED SILHOUETTE Akris
  20. 20. OVAL SILHOUETTE « ANGULAR OVALS » These oval silhouettes are drawn towards a wide rectangular « WIDE-OPENED OVALS » Large volumes are created by draperies and widened sleeves. Such silhouette accentuates an accruing tendency of oval silhouette usage a lot more. Chanel Alexander Wang Burberry Prorsum
  22. 22. « Wide-open ovals » ON RUSSIAN STREETS
  23. 23. THE TRAPEZOID Influence of an oval silhouette has had an impact on the trapezoid silhouettes. The trapezoid has flowing and smoothed angles, therefore the whole image does not look so aggressively as it was some years ago. Alexander Wang Michael Kors
  24. 24. X-SHAPED SILHOUETTE <ul><li>The sleeve head and the bottom of clothes are frequently rounded up </li></ul><ul><li>The length of clothes is hardly above a knee or the middle of a calf line </li></ul><ul><li>This silhouette is seen mostly in trench coats </li></ul>Burberry Prorsum
  26. 26. THE KEY ITEMS
  27. 27. Youth group : OUTERWEAR Quilted jacket Overcoat Raincoat Trench coat Down-padded coat
  28. 28. Куртки Пальто Плащи Пуховики Youth group : SWEATERS & JACKETS Jumper Cardigan Sweatshirt Denim Cloak Suit jacket Jacket Waistcoat Sweater
  29. 29. Youth group: TOPS Top Dress Shirt Blouse T-shirt Turtleneck sweater Maxidress
  30. 30. Youth group: BOTTOMS Skirts Trousers Breeches Jeans Shorts Leggings Sports trousers Capri
  31. 31. Middle age group : OUTERWEAR Quilted jacket Overcoat Raincoat Trench coat Down-padded coat
  32. 32. Middle age group : SWEATERS & JACKETS Sweater Cardigan Suit jacket Jacket Jumper Cloak Dinim Waistcoat Sweatshirt Poncho
  33. 33. Middle age group : TOPS Top Dress Blouse Shirt Turtleneck T-shirt
  34. 34. Middle age group : BOTTOMS Skirt Trousers Jeans Shorts Capris Leggings
  35. 35. Elderly age group : OUTERWEAR Quilted jacket Overcoat Raincoat Down-padded coat Trench coat
  36. 36. Elderly age group : SWEATERS & JACKETS Suit jacket Poncho Sweater Cardigan Jacket Jumper Cloak Denim
  37. 37. Elderly age group: TOPS Dress Shirt Top Turtleneck
  38. 38. Elderly age group: BOTTOMS Trousers Skirt Jeans Breeches Sports trousers
  40. 40. REPTILE LEATHER Currently, usage of computerized pattern of reptile skin fits perfectly into the leading fashion trend - which is an aspiration of an digital era person towards the wild nature
  42. 42. Natural structures Natural structures fit effortlessly in a today's costume as an imitation of the cracked or relief surface with new textures. Sometimes it looks like surface with the emerged outgrowths.
  43. 43. PSYCHEDELIC ORNAMENT Character of bright English prints is so much exaggerated by present designers that it has adopted psychedelic nature, in which challenging color kaleidoscope camouflages the person.
  45. 45. THE THICKENED MAT LEATHER The leather became more thickened with mat tint. It resembles dense wool or a soft seal skin
  47. 47. CARELESS BULKY KNITTING Effect of carelessness in a way of knitting also gives softness to the whole image
  48. 48. THE FUR RESEMBLING A WIG The long fur, which is creating an image of uncombed and ungroomed yeti, has found its level among vanguard models of designer’s collections.
  49. 49. THE FUR « YETI »
  50. 50. THE FUR REMINDING A CUDDLY TOY Such multi-colored and differently-textured types of fur are often used in one model, that is why it looks shabbier and touching as a teddy bear.
  51. 51. The fur reminding forgotten good old Soviet toys evokes cozy memoirs
  52. 52. THE PATCHY FUR Presence of negligence and lack of a luxury hint is a leading trend of furs range. This shabby and flocculent fur resembles the one, which our ancestors wore. This fur seems to belong to the person, who stood up into fights with the pack of wolves...
  53. 54. COLOUR The color scheme reflects the emotional part of a new female image and the general atmosphere of collections.
  54. 55. Achromatic Brights Darks Pastels Achromatic Brights Darks Pastels Achromatic Brights Darks Pastels Youth group ( age 20-35) Middle age group (35-55) Elderly age group (55 and upwards)
  55. 56. THE BLACKS. In last fall-winter seasons black color has supplanted all spectrum of colors. Models on runway looked like the funeral procession striding from one collection to another. Last season black colors changed already a little and began to remind dark gray. In this season picturesque dark gray colors remind glitter and variety tints of natural black pearls Chanel Black color on Russian streets Alexander Wang
  56. 57. THE WHITES. The scheme of white colors has also changed. Now they are not snowy white, but warm tints of white. No wonder that PANTONE has given names to all of them: an ivory white, an oyster white, a porcelain white, an antique white etc. Both dark grey and dingy white silhouettes are often supplemented with unexpected accents of bright colors Bensoni Akris The white color on Russian streets
  57. 58. Chado Ralf Rucci Chanel THE B&W. The classic black and white color combination allows to reach laconism of an English image. Moreover, in this season contrasting trimmings of constructive lines and edges of details go down a treat giving additional graphicness and rigidity to a clear-cut silhouette of a business woman. This color combination looks more provocative than mix of charcoal-blacks and antique-whites. However, the color combination of dark grey with tints of dingy white or neutrals sound most sharply and exciting The classic b&w on Russian streets
  58. 59. BRIGHTS. The saturated and compound contrast of related colors have appeared last spring. In fall-winter’12 season they completely fill in entire silhouette. Often they harmonize with achromatic colors. It gives them refinement and adds zest. These colors remind dramatic sounds “dièse and bémol”, which seem to be disappearing in a heavy fog. There are many models designed upon discreet achromatic scale where bright color supported by nothing else sounds unexpectedly sonorous. Burberry Prorsum Alexander Wang Akris Chanel
  59. 60. Bright colors on Russian streets
  60. 61. NATURALS. This palette has became popular last season already. Tints of flesh and beige colors have priority in it. Through the usage of these colors designers transfer elegance and feminity of Scandinavian images which are far from being soft. This color scale looks especially magnetic in the suits with various light fur dressed on models with lightened fluttering long hair. Owing to tints of flesh color even heavy overcoats and jackets look fabulous Diesel Black Gold Akris Burberry Prorsum Natural colours in the streets.
  62. 63. FOOTWEAR A nkle boots - massive wedge heel - hefty heel - usage of print Open-toe sandals combined with socks. Coarse knee-length socks and woolen socks evoke thoughts of traditional Scandinavian motives.
  63. 64. SHOES Comfortable elegant shoes come back. It became fashionable to trim them with a practical tweed, which reminds of old good England. BROGUES AND LOAFERS As a result of the currency of androgynous style one can discover more frequently the elements of man's clothes in a female image In fact, brogues became the hit of the season F/W’12
  64. 65. HANDBAGS Rigid bag - a sac/briefcase A sac/briefcase is the best variant for the business and self-sufficient girl. It can contain all necessary thing that she needs during the day.
  65. 66. Soft and fluffy handbag There is an aura of warmth and coziness about it. Natural fur of chinchillas and foxes is used for its manufacturing
  66. 67. Wattled bags Ethnic motives continue to win the market. Designers use different geographical zones for their inspiration and create collections which based on motives of national clothes of one or another country. - Monochrome scale with dominated classical colors - Reptile leather - Decorative components are brushes, fringes and wattled thongs.
  67. 68. ACCESSORIES The cultural heritage of Scandinavian people has become a source of inspiration for the last winter collection. For the spring collection - the cultural heritage of Asia and Africa has served. Long-forgotten ethnic motives is becoming stronger again. Massiveness and laconism of decorations.
  68. 70. Dainty fancifully twirled patterns
  69. 72. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION 971-70-30 FashionInstitute.ru Dean of Fashion Design faculty : Inga Kallagova [email_address] +7 (925) 044 71 54 Moscow, September’ 11 .