6. Determination of Color in mid-length and ends Hair Analysis Take swatch from the tableau, fan it and place at the clients hair, repeat until the correct shade level is determined In case of uncertainty choose the darker strand Topchic Permanent Haircolor
7.
8. Blueprint for Formulation STEP 1: IDENTIFY THE EXISTING LEVEL OR LEVELS = XL Use swatches from the Color Tableau or Universal Shade Chart to determine the existing level (s). (It is essential to know the existing level and base shade (s), so a starting point can be determined and if the target color can be achieved in a single or double process) STEP 2: DETERMINE THE TARGET LEVEL = ↕-> Consider: Hair to be lighter, darker or maintain the same level, only adjusting the tone STEP 3: DETERMINE THE TARGET COLOR = TC Consider: Fashion tones with gold or reddish tones or a natural brown tone (choose a desired shade) Topchic Permanent Haircolor
9. Blueprint for Formulation STEP 4: DETERMINE NATURAL CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT = NCP From the NCP Chart, choose the NCP at target level. Decide whether you want to control or enhance the end result. STEP 5: DETERMINE THE GREY PERCENTAGE = % Use the three categories of grey percentage, also consider whether the client prefers grey coverage or grey blending. When there is grey in the natural hair, the formula must contain a portion of the N-Series for optimum coverage. NOTE: Step 1 & 2 determine the volume of Topchic Lotion needed Step 3, 4 & 5 determine the Topchic Shades needed. Topchic Permanent Haircolor
10. * When adding Blonding Cream Topchic Permanent Haircolor Selection of Lotion Target is ... H 2 O 2 Darker than Base Level Same Level or 1 level lighter than Base Level 2-3* levels lighter than Base Level 3-4* levels lighter than Base Level 3% - ( 10 volume) 6% - (20 volume) 9% - (30 volume) 12% - (40 volume)
17. Natural Contributing Pigment Chart Natural Level Activating Pigment Controlling Color 2 Darkest Orange Green Ash, Ash Ash, A 3 Dark Dark Orange Green Ash, Ash Ash 4 Dark Orange Blue Ash, Ash Ash 5 Medium Orange Blue Ash, Violet Ash, MB, A 6 Light Orange MB, SB, A, NA, NP 7 Extra Light Orange MB, SB, A, NA, NP 8 Medium Gold (yellow-orange) SB, A, NA, NP 9 Light Gold A, NA 10 Extra Light Gold or * yellow possible A, P, V* * Yellow may appear as the underlying pigment at level 10 after decolorization, in this case, use 10V (violet) as the controlling color toner
Topchic Topchic Permanent Haircolor that combines powerful optimum grey coverage shades with superior conditioning, shine and a pleasant fragrance. Key Benefits: Coenzyme Technology Color Equalizer System TRAP - 2,5,6-Triamino-4 Pyrimidinol Sulfate
Patented Coenzyme Technology: During the oxidation process, free radicals are formed which compromise the hair structure. Free radicals exist from molecules that have become detached for a variety of reasons, which include environmental and chemical effects. The molecules become negatively charged from damage. The negative molecules begin searching for a positive molecule which to attach. In the process they destroy other molecules, which creates an unbalance. The innovative Coenzyme Technology protects the hair during coloration. While the hair is in the processing state, the Coenzymes attach to the excess negative free radicals, neutralizing the effect and re-balancing the hair structure. So the damaging free radicals are neutralized and the hair structure is protected. The coloration process is not compromised. This means less damage, improved hair structure and extraordinary brilliance and intensity. A less compromised hair structure provides better durability of the color.
Take a swatch from the tableau, fan it and place it at the clients hair Repeat until the correct shade level was determined In case of uncertainty choose the darker strand The exact determination of the base is also important for determining the need of pre-treatments
Product Usage: A maximum of 50% or 1/2 of the color formula can be substituted with a concentrate Tips for Concentrates: The concentrates should not be used alone For additional Intensity in fashion shades Additional control in Highlift (P Mix only)
Explain how this is like a law of nature; we have to work with it, so we simply control it Basically, either a client wants to be a warm fashion tone; or they don’t If they don’t we typically need to utilize a controlling color in our formula
Note you have options at each level to choose for control What determines your choice of color is client priority, hair texture, density, porosity, how many levels of lift you are achieving The various color choices simply give you options to choose for less control or more, depending on your needs
Topchic Natural Formulations Review these formulations, but also discuss the option to choose one of the other color choices listed Discuss the difference in the end result choosing a different color Note the 25ml of TC and 15 ml of control color are a basic guideline; this can be altered to achieve more control if desired EX: 25 ml control color and 15 ml TC, or 20 ml control color and 20 ml TC
How does it look if you paint a black and white wall blue? The result will be a pattern of light blue/dark blue You should equalize the colors prior to painting blue. The stronger the differences on the wall, the more challenging it is to equalize the colors. This is similar to coloring hair, if gray hair is present, equalizing and the coloring can be reached in one step. The desire of many clients is for an even color result. This means the white hair must be covered because otherwise it would be too vivid Fashion shades have a tendency to cover gray less than natural shades, adding N-shades improves the coverage of fashion shades The greater gray percentage, more N-shade must be added into the formulation
Many clients desire the coverage of their grey hair to match the color of their natural hair, achieving an even color result throughout This demand can be met by using the N shades, which can be applied either directly or mixed with other shades In case of resistant or very coarse hair, the N-shade should be replaced by the corresponding NN-shade The higher concentration of pigments and alkalinity in these shades, combined with the relevant color character ensure satisfactory grey coverage, even on coarse and resistant types of hair Adding an N or NN-shade to the fashion color makes it possible to adequately cover white hair and still achieve a fashion color result
Resistant Grey: Discuss who the resistant grey client is; and how to identify resistant hair (coarse, wiry texture, unruly fine hair, grey showing through) Be sure your client wants 100% coverage; if the grey is showing through from previous color, find out if they like that “natural look”, or prefer complete coverage Be sure the client is aware the perception of all hairs completely covered may give a slightly darker coloration
Identify what a spot or streak is This formulation is for spots, streaks, or isolated areas; should not be applied on entire head
After completion of these formulations, do one of these again, but add in a grey streak or spot Walk through formulation showing how to pre-soften the streak or spot first, and then continue with the formulation Remember, to always apply color formulation over spot or streak area first; then proceed with remainder of head
Greying clients have: A desire for youthfulness, and expect you to provide the service and expertise that satisfies their needs. A purpose in mind: to cover grey hair, while maintaining or improving their overall appearance. AND: They want to retain their youthfulness with a modern, natural color service, which is lively and shiny.
GREY HAIR CLIENTS ARE A DEMANING TARGET GROUP WITH SPECIFIC NEEDS IN GREY COVERAGE Up to 100% grey coverage is still fully required. But requirements have changed in the last years in regard to the hair color: Natural color result, no “helmet” look. Lively dimensional color with fashionable reflects. Not too dark colors which fit to their complexion. Brilliant and shiny hair.
While TriFlective Naturals are final shade creations with a defined assortment, N and NN shades can be mixed with the entire assortment for ultimate variety. While TriFlective Naturals provide a very lively and shimmering color result, N and NN shades allow you to achieve also a more solid grey coverage result if desired. TriFlective Naturals do not replace the existing N and NN shades but they are an extension of grey coverage service offer. Depending on the clients wish the most suitable product can be chosen.
