Studio 54 opens in New York
Elvis Presley dies
Zandra Rhodes’ Conceptual Chic Collection
Yves Saint Laurent Opium perfume launched
John Travolta star in Saturday Night Fever
David Lynch’s film Eraserhead
Never Mind the Bullocks, Here’s the Sex Pistols album released
Iggy Pop releases Lust for Life
First in vitro baby boom
First own-name collection by Versace
Karl Lagerfeld’ s first collection for Fendi
Missoni designs exhibited in the Whitney Museum, New York
Betsey Johnson founds her own company
Charles James dies
John Travolta and Oliver Newton. John star in Grease
Brooke Shields stars in Louis Maller’s film Pretty Baby
Dallas begins on U.S. Television
Fashion Today (McDowell, 2005, 502.)
I think that I was the first to bring
back padded shoulders, because
six months after my collection the
fashion journalists came back
from Paris saying that everybody
had copied them. In People
Magazine 1977 in Davis 2011, 98.
With fashion and art both becoming more pervasive elements of contemporary life, it is
inevitable that they will continue to cross over each other’s boundaries . . .
Though the connection has grown close, there are still inevitable differences between
Art is typically private, the creation of an individual. Fashion is public, a collaboration
between designer, manufacturer, and wearer and then between wearer and viewer. Art
requires time, contemplation, and thought. Fashion is instantaneous . . .
Boodro 1990, 127.
Versace chose in his heroic model the streetwalker, but her transfiguration was into art
and media, transmogrification in the 1880s and 1890s under the aegis of Henri de
Toulouse‒Lautrec was almost bringing the vernacular custom of the street in to the
couture‒standard of art.
Martin 1998, 96
Fashion is undoubtedly of vastly greater significance than art in terms of its economic
importance, since, despite the fact that at one level it produces limited numbers of
expensive, individual items in a manner somewhat comparable to art production,
fashion’s principle economic engagement is with industrial production, which has effects
on a nation’s trade and employment that have no equivalent in the field of art.
Radford 1998, 156.
Seeking for the art quotient? Troy, 2003, 4‒5.
The situation was changing
(Drake 2006, 254.)
Even more significant to the future of Paris was the fact that
Milan was breeding a new generation of fashion designers.
During 1977 there were several articles in the French fashion
press praising the considerable design talent and innovation of
new generation of new young names such as Giorgio Armani,
Walter Albini and Gianni Versace. The Milan designers benefitted
from the support and infrastructure of brilliant as well as highly
competitive textile producers based in Pareto and a
manufacturing industy that were to prove vital to their
develoment of fashion brands. Many of the licenced lines that
the French fashion shewers had contracted out were now being
manufactured in Italy.
Modern art by postmodern high fashion in a puristical
• High modernism (Clark 1996, 5):
• General taste negation
• Premodern style negation
• Ignorance of non-western cultures
• Sequence to art critics
ɣ Wrong (street fashion)
ɣ Wrong (antic)
ɣ Wrong (India, Japan)
ɣ Wrong (innovation)
We will not be uninformed at the Millennium’s turn, but neither will we be uniformed.
Elle di Franca Versace (1965) Versace S.r.l. (20MITL, 1978) Gianni Versace S.p.A | Versace
Group (2000), a full collection 27.3.1979
Also Modifin SA, Versace Financiaria S.p.A., Alias S.p.A., Iganne VESA S.l.r., Ordersystem..
Gianni Versace: Fashion art = Culture
Marcel Proust: Fashion = Art
David Carrier: Fashon > Art
Sung Bok Kim: Fashion ≠ Art
Eco 2004/2002, 428.
• La bellezza di consumo
Il nostro esploratore del futuro non potrà più individuare
I’ideale estetico diffuso dai mass media del XX secolo e oltre.
Dovrà arrendersi di fronte all’orgia della tolleranza, al
sincretismo totale, all’assoluto e inarrestabile politeismo della
• Our explore from the future will no longer be able to identify
the aesthetic ideal diffused by the mass media of the
twentieth century and beyond. He will have to surrender
before the orgy of tolerance, the total syncretism and the
absolute and unstoppable polytheism of Beauty.
Actual, potential, fictional
Textual, Reader, Protagonist, Reader’s assumed
Parallel universe (multiverse)
Another world (imagined/fantasied or real)
Childers 1999, 210
Synonymous with bold fashion, Versace appears to a vibrantic yearning
to be noticed. A discernable lack of regard for the middle ground
coupled with innovations that always surprise are signature elements
in Gianni Versace’s legacy of epic propertions through astonishing
versatility, Versace incorporated Baroque and Renaissance motifs,
often going to the edge
to risk shocking the faint of heart. Versace pursued a clear mission in
popularizing the freedom of aesthetic choice-enticing luminarities,
celebrities and fashion pundits alike. Such daring extends to all of the
many items Gianni Versace has touched, including Versace jewelry,
whose striking statement is one that will not be easily forgotten.
Goodman 1978/1988, 67, 63.
• Consider again an ordinary swatch of textile in a tailor’s or upholsterer’s
sample book. It is unlikely to be a work of art or to picture or express
anything. It’s simply a sample – a simple sample. But what is it a sample
of? Texture, color, weave, thickness, fiber, content…; the whole point of
this sample, we are tempted to say, is that it was cut form a bolt and has
all the same properties as the of the material. But that would be too hasty.
cf. Baldassare Castiglione: The Book of the Couturier
Il Libro del Cortegiano 1528
• ”When is art? My answer is that just as an object may be a symbol – for
instance, a sample – at certain times and under certain circumstances and
not at others, so an object many be a work of art some times and not at
others. Indeed, just be virtue of functioning as a symbol in a certain way
does an object become, while so functioning, a work of art.
Wittgenstein: Culture and Values
The human gaze has a power of conferring value on things; but it makes them cost more too. 1e 1929
A beautiful garment that is transformed (coagulates, as it were) into worms and serpents if its wearer
looks smugly at himself in the mirror. ssc 1931
The face is the soul of the body. 23c 1932
In the art it is hard to say anything as good as: saying nothing. 23e 1932
On might say: "Genius is talent exercised with courage". 38e, 1940
Genius is what makes us forget skill. 43e 1943
Taste makes things ACCEPTABLE. 59e 1947
Taste is refinement of sensitivity; but sensitivity does not do anything, it is purely receptive. 60e 1947
The essentia of fashion culture
I don’t understand those who are
professionally cultured. I like pop
culture, the culture that doesn’t
need to show off. Real culture is one
with life; it doesn’t need to be
camourflaged, and it has a lightness
that remains unchanged even when
it is its most profound.
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