Good fashion= Good designA combination of:• Line• Shape• Color• Texture• Pattern
Cycle of fashion lasted decades• In early traditional cultures, styling of clothes did not change or if it changed stayed for a long period.
Travel changed this• From Baghdad to Moorish Spain; Turkey to Middle East and Central Asia.
Paris: Where fashion began• Paris, France from 1600s became center of fashion, where French royalty and affluent used designers to outfit them.
Haute culture• Started after the French Revolution (1789), haute couture design firms grew. French for “Fine Tailoring” High- fashion, individually designed, original, handmade garments for the elite, $2K-$40K.
A little history 1900s-1950s• US magazine Vogue in 1909 helped spread the word in fashion• Manufactured fabrics, included nylon and rayon• Looser fitting, functional clothes, especially for workforce• Long hair, Long hemlines, corsets, hats
1920s and chanel• Chanel liberated women from "corseted silhouette" and popularized the acceptance of a sportive, casual chic as the feminine standard.
chanel• Her influence went beyond clothing into jewelry, handbags, and Chanel No. 5 fragrance.
Women’s liberation• Shorter hair, disbandoned Victorian era clothes• Shorter skirts• Nylon (cheaper hosiery)• Corsets abandoned• Alternating long hem lines, narrow shoulders and tightly fitted bodices with long, full, or narrow skirts.
1960’s• Hippie style – liberal fashion with influence from the east, using bright colors, peasant embroidery, cheeseclo th, and safari jackets.
60’s continued• Clothes came in brighter colors• In 1966, Mary Quant came up with the idea of the miniskirt• Pants become commonplace for women• The mod and hippie subcultures emerged• Twiggy become a fashion icon
1970’s• Influence of disco, punk, and feminist movement included: torn clothing, pant suits for women, and influence of white, neon and after-glow.
1980’s• Business casual with the power look and health conscious. High price not linked to high fashion and more use of easy to care synthetic fibers. Rebellious, colorful, and crazy.
1990’s• In US dress-down leads the way to informality, comfort and athletic look override business attire. Grunge – a style started by youth culture. Messy, uncombed, not too much effort.
2000’s• Free-spirited: Bohemian Chic and Hipster - mixed different styles from punk, grunge, hippie, hipsters using large sunglasses, flowing skirts, boots and loose jumpers.
Designer Label• A cross between couture and mass market eg Donna Karan, Yves St Laurent, Gucci.
Mass market• Affordable ready-to- wear, off-the rack high street fashion while trying to keep the look of Designer or Haute Couture eg Old Navy, Gap, Abercrombie and Fitch, H&M.
4 Fashion capitals PARIS NEW YORK Clean-cut & casual Chic and stylish MILAN LONDON Casual elegance Unorthodox clothesDior ,Chanel, Calvin Yves Saint Klein, Ralph Laurent Lauren Valentino, Milan Fair Vivienne Westwood
A fashion year• Work a year in advance• 2 seasons: – Spring/Summer (lightweight) – Autumn/Winter (heavier fabrics)
The brand• Every fashion hub and then every fashion house has an identity. The collection has to identify with the brand/look and complement each other.
Theme for Collection• Designer selects theme, color, type of fabric, place, history, event.
designing for Collection• Designing builds of theme and includes number of garments, to be done. From paper pattern to muslin sample, adjustment, accurate pattern, samples in fashion fabric and various colors in 3 month period.
Fashion show• Press and buyers get their first look of the collection at the show.
fad• A fashion with a sudden burst of popularity or novelty that “catches on.”
style• Your own defining form of dress that may or may not incorporate what is the fashion trend.