Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2010

CONTENTS Welcome 5 T&T: the facts 11 Traveller’s tips 7 Events calendar 17 Discover Tobago Economy 44 Accommodation 24 Festivals 45 Arts & entertainment 29 Shopping 49 Beaches 32 Sightseeing 52 Dining 36 Sports 56 Eco adventure 39 Weddings 59 Discover TriniDaD Economy 96 Accommodation 62 Festivals 99 Arts & culture 70 Nightlife 103 Beaches 74 Shopping 105 Carnival 76 Sightseeing 110 Dining 82 Spas 116 Eco adventure 91 Sports 121 index 125 Maps 128 Editor: Caroline Neisha Taylor Consulting editor: Jeremy Taylor Design: Aisha Provoteaux Sales: Denise Chin, Samantha Rochard, Jacqueline Smith Writers: Laura Dowrich-Phillips, Onika Henry, Christine Schofield, Caroline Neisha Taylor Editorial assistant: Mirissa De Four Production: Joanne Mendes, Jacqueline Smith Cover Abir colours used during Phagwa (Edison Boodoosingh) A publication of Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. (MEP) 6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Trinidad & Tobago T (868) 622-3821 • F (868) 628-0639 E info@discovertnt.com • W www.discovertnt.com And connect with us online on: • Facebook www.facebook.com/discovertnt • Twitter www.twitter.com/meppublishers • our Blog http://discovertnt.blogspot.com Above A hiker stands at the © 2010 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may entrance of the Aripo Caves be reproduced in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of the publisher. (Brian Kinzie) 1

WElCOmE! Congratulations on choosing to explore the unique Caribbean islands of Trinidad and Tobago, and thank you for allowing us to guide you on your journey. It might take a lifetime to truly experience all that the islands have to offer, but we can at least show you where to start! abouT T&T house are all locally based, uses significantly less energy and These two Caribbean islands so that our success ultimately paper during production. have retained their individual benefits the local community. characters, undiluted by large- We are also mindful of our explore… scale tourism. In both Trinidad carbon footprint. Starting with The introductory section of this and Tobago, distinct as they are, our 2009 edition, we’ve focused book gives you an overview of the you will find a spectacular natural our print publication on the history and lifestyle of both islands environment and a creative and most important information you together as a nation, before self-reliant people, brimming with need on the go, while publishing helping you to discover what humour and candour. additional information on our makes each island special. Tobago is perfect for an idyllic website – and saving 2.2 million So whether you are from a beach getaway, an escape into pages of paper over the last two neighbouring town or a distant nature, or heart-pounding eco years. We have also adopted the country, we welcome you. There is adventures on land or at sea. latest printing technology, which so much to discover! Trinidad, meanwhile, is the economic powerhouse (based on oil and gas), with a unique culture that spawns dynamic creative STaNdardS & FEEdbaCk industries and world-renowned • The country’s tourism authorities run an annual inspection festivals like Carnival. programme called the Trinidad & Tobago Tourism Industry Certification (TTTIC). A special logo is used to indicate approval. abouT Discover Current information can be found at www.gotrinidadandtobago. This is the 21st edition of com. Advertising in Discover is open to anybody, but that does Discover, the trusted guide to T&T, not imply editorial endorsement or participation in the TTTIC produced by people who know programme; use of advertisers’ services is at your own discretion this country and care about and risk. getting it right. • Every effort has been made to ensure that information is By trusting Discover, you can correct at press time. But things change swiftly, so we can make be sure that you are investing no guarantees about its continued accuracy. If you have any in the islands: our contributors, suggestions or queries, we would be delighted to hear from you. production team and printing Above A magnificent owl butterfly distracts predators by mimicking the head of a lizard (Brian Kinzie) 5

TravEllErS’ TipS International travel air: scheduled flights are operated by Aeropostal, American Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental, Copa, Delta, LIAT, Monarch, Suriname Airways, and Virgin Atlantic. Others offer charter flights sea: the peak cruise ship season is November–April, with visits from Fred Olsen, Holland America, Ocean Village, Princess, Saga Travel, Seabourn, and Windstar lines enTry requireMenTs: you need a passport valid for three months beyond intended stay. Non-residents require documentation of return or sea: daily inter-island service between Port of Spain Ground transport onward travel and a valid local and Scarborough operated The Public Transportation Service address. Visas are generally not by Port Authority of Trinidad & Corporation (PTSC: www.ptsc. required for visits up to 30 days. Tobago (www.patnt.com), and co.tt) operates scheduled bus For yacht arrivals, clearance water taxi service between services (TT$2–12) alongside certificate from last port of Port of Spain and San privately operated, unscheduled call and vessel’s registration Fernando operated by National maxi and route taxis (TT$2–15). certificate (or authorisation for Infrastructure Development Legal, registered taxis have licence use) required Company (www.trinywatertaxi. plates beginning with H and are com): unmetered; confirm fare in advance Domestic air & • Warrior Spirit (5.5hrs): airporT Transfers: sea bridges TT$160 (cabin), TT$75 return (economy), children 3-11 authorised taxis operate outside arrivals halls at Piarco and Crown years half price Point airports; check approved air: daily flights between • T&T Express and T&T Spirit rates (on display at the taxi Trinidad and Tobago (20 mins, (2.5hrs): TT$100 return, stands) TT$300 round trip) on Caribbean children 3-11 years half price Airlines (625-7200, www. • Water Taxi (45mins): TT$15 buses: operate from hubs caribbean-airlines.com) one way in Port of Spain, Chaguanas, Above A Caribbean Airlines Dash-8 comes in for a sunset landing at Crown Point, Tobago (Giancarlo Lalsingh) 7

Edison Boodoosingh and King’s Wharf, San Fernando Chacon Street Maxi-Taxis: 12–25 (Trinidad); and Sangster’s Hill, • Curepe-Sangre Grande: lower Henry seat minibuses, similar set Scarborough (Tobago) Street routes, departing downtown • Diego Martin/Petit Valley: Port of Spain from City Gate; car renTal: local and Abercromby Street San Fernando from “the Stand” international companies operate • Maraval: Duke and Charlotte on Chancery Lane; and lower nationwide: Streets Scarborough opposite the port. • Budget: 669-1635, • San Fernando: Broadway and Bright colour bands indicate www.budget.com South Quay service areas: • Frankie’s (Tobago): 631-0369, • San Juan: lower Charlotte Street • Black (San Fernando–Princes www.frankietours-tobago.com • St Ann’s/St James: Hart Street Town): connections to Mayaro • Kalloo’s (Trinidad): 622-9073, • Wrightson Road/Long Circular Road: • Blue (throughout Tobago) www.kalloos.com lower Chacon Street • Brown (San Fernando–La • Sherman’s (Tobago): 639-2292, • Chaguaramas: Park and St Vincent Romaine–Siparia–Point Fortin) www.shermansrental.com Streets • Green (Port of Spain–Curepe– • Thrifty (Tobago): 639-8507, In Chaguanas (Trinidad): Chaguanas–San Fernando): www.thrifty.com • Couva (and nearby towns): higher runs from City Gate; lower end Southern Main Road of Southern Main Road (for rouTe Taxis: stop to pick • Curepe: Chaguanas Main Road San Fernando) and Eleanor up or put down as necessary, • Port of Spain: lower Southern Street (for Port of Spain) in servicing specific routes from Main Road Chaguanas designated taxi stands: In San Fernando (Trinidad): • Red (Port of Spain–Arima): In Port of Spain (Trinidad): • All areas: “The Stand”, car park connections to Blanchisseuse, • Cascade: Charlotte and Prince parallel Chancery Lane and Matelot via Sangre Grande Streets In Scarborough (Tobago): • Yellow (Port of Spain–Diego • Chaguanas: South Quay, opposite • Carrington Street Martin–Chaguaramas) 8 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

privaTe Taxis: listings available in the Yellow Pages Emergency Numbers • Ambulance (public hospitals): 811 Tour operaTors: see • Crime Stoppers: 800-TIPS, advertiser directory www.crimestopperstt.com • EMS (emergency medical services): 624-4343 (north Trinidad), general inforMaTion 653-4343 (south/central Trinidad), 639-4444 (Tobago) • Division of Tourism • Fire: 990 (Tobago House of Assembly, • Hyperbaric Medical Facility: 660-4369 (Roxborough, Tobago) Scarborough): 639-2125, www. • Office of Disaster Preparedness: 640-1285 (Trinidad), visittobago.gov.tt 660-7489 (Tobago) • Immigration Division: 625- • Police: 999 (Trinidad); 639-2520/5590 (Tobago) 3571 (Trinidad), 639-2681 (Tobago), www.immigration. gov.tt • Ministry of Tourism (Port Ship Complex, Tobago); 669- • Kidnapping hotline: 623-6793 of Spain): 624-1403, www. 5196 (Piarco Airport) • Lifeline (suicide prevention): tourism.gov.tt • ttconnnect (Trinidad & Tobago 645-2800, 645-6616 • Tobago House of Assembly government online): www.gov.tt • National AIDS hotline: 800- (Scarborough): 639-3421, 4448, www.aidsline.tt www.tha.gov.tt Help neTworks • National Family Services: • Tourism Development • Childline: 800-4321, www. 624-8218 (Trinidad), 639- Company (Barataria, Trinidad): ttcadv.net 1512 (Tobago) 675-7034, www.tdc.co.tt, www. • Domestic violence hotline: • Rape Crisis Society: 622- gotrinidadandtobago.com 800-SAVE 7273 (Port of Spain), 657- • Tourist Information offices: • Families in Action 5355 (San Fernando) 639-0509 (Crown Point hotline: 628-2333, www. • Rebirth House (substance Airport); 635-0934 (Cruise familiesinaction.net abuse): 623-0952 9

prECauTiONS Like much of the world, the islands are affected by crime, particularly Trinidad. Always: drive with extreme care and practise defensive driving; leave valuables (jewellery, money, passports, credit cards, etc) at home or well concealed; walk in company; lock your vehicle; lock your room/house door; keep windows closed at night or if you are going out; be aware of your surroundings; raise an alarm and head to the nearest police station if you suspect you are being followed Never: venture into deserted or unfamiliar areas alone; wear extravagant jewellery; leave handbags or wallets lying around; use an ABM if you sense someone suspicious nearby (if your card gets stuck, call the bank immediately); leave laptop computers or other valuables in your car; leave car windows down when stopping, especially at night; engage in any altercations with strangers SuSTaiNablE TravEl Both climate change and globalisation can hit developing island nations particularly hard. Here’s what you can do to safeguard the islands’ natural and cultural treasures: Buy local: buy local CDs, books and DVDs from authorised retailers (not pirated copies); and purchase locally produced food and souvenirs (not any made from endangered species) Fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon dioxide emissions from your flight Mind your gas: choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs when renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; don’t let your car idle; keep your tires inflated; try to carpool; and when you can, walk or cycle Recycle: Ace, Carib Glass, Piranha, and SWMCOL process plastic, glass, aluminium, paper, cardboard and electronics (e-waste); some sponsor receptacles around the islands. The International School of Port of Spain also runs a recycling programme Reduce: turn off electrical devices when you don’t need them; avoid plastic bags and styrofoam; buy and consume only what you need; reuse when you can Right Palm Tanager (Atiba Williams) 10 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

Trinidad & Tobago: ThE FaCTS The islands airporTs: Crown Point International Airport, Tobago (10km/7 miles from Scarborough); Piarco International Airport, Trinidad (27km/17 miles from Port of Spain) capiTal: national capital, Port of Spain (population 45,000; 270,000 metropolitan); Tobago capital, Scarborough (pop 17,000) cliMaTe: tropical. Dry season January–May, wet June–December (islands just south of hurricane belt). Temperature range 72–95°F (22–35°C); average 83°F (29°C), with 60–75% humidity HigHesT poinT: Trinidad’s El Cerro del Aripo (940m/3,085ft); Tobago’s Main Ridge (549m/1,860ft) locaTion: 11°N, 61°W. Trinidad & Tobago 33km (21 miles) apart, 10km (7 miles) from Venezuelan coast at the nearest point size: Tobago 300km2 (116 sq miles) or 48x16km (30x10 miles). Trinidad 4,828km2 (1,864 sq miles) or 105x80km (65x50 miles) TiMe zone: GMT -4, EST +1 11

Media & communications waTer: tap water safe to drink (boil to be safer); bottled water widely available counTry pHone coDe: +868 Mail: TTPost national mail service; plus FedEx, Public wi-fi DHL, UPS and others • Piarco Airport lanDline TelepHone: • Rituals coffee shops (nationwide) Telecommunications Services of Trinidad & Tobago • Sweet Lime Restaurant (TSTT) and FLOW (Columbus Communications). Prepaid international phone cards available Society Mobile TelepHone: bmobile (TSTT) and Digicel operate on GSM networks; prepaid SIM governMenT: parliamentary democracy; cards available for unlocked phones ruling party People’s National Movement under Prime Minister Patrick Manning; President George press: 3 daily national newspapers (Express, Maxwell Richards; United National Congress Guardian, Newsday), 7 weeklies (including Tobago Alliance main opposition News), 1 tri-weekly language: English (official) raDio: 37 FM stations; two AM stations. For all-local fare, try Radio Trinbago 94.7FM populaTion: 1.3 million: 40% of Indian descent, 37.5% African, 21.7% mixed. 50,000 Television: 12 local stations, five free-to-air (primarily African descent) in Tobago (NCC-4, CCN TV6, Gayelle, CNC3 and C-TV), seven available only via cable (ACTS, IBN, ieTV, Parliament religion: Roman Catholic 26%, other Channel, Synergy, Tobago Channel 5, Win-TV); some Christian 31.6%, Hindu 22.5%, Muslim 5.8% only available on one island Practicalities currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1=TT$6.3 Driving: on the left. Trinidad speed limits 80kph (50mph) highways and 55kph (34mph) settled areas; 50kph (32mph) in Tobago. Seatbelts required. Visitors can drive up to 90 days on valid foreign/international licences elecTriciTy: 115v/230v, 60Hz Money: ABMs (ATMs), credit/debit cards in general use Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; departure tax TT$100; VAT 15% on goods and services (Photo by Martin Farinha) 13

Identity we stand, islands of the blue Caribbean Sea. This, our native Heroes land, we pledge our lives to coaT of arMs: features thee. Here every creed and race sTepHen aMes: world national birds scarlet ibis finds an equal place, and may top 25 golfer with three major (Trinidad), cocrico (Tobago) God bless our Nation.” (Patrick PGA titles, including historic and hummingbird; three ships Castagne, 1962) victory over all-star field with of Columbus and Trinity Hills’ Tiger Woods at the Players “three sisters” peaks; fruited naTional flag: strips Championship (2006) coconut palm native to Tobago; of red (fire, vitality of the sun); and national motto: “together we white (water, purity and power of aTo bolDon: four-time aspire, together we achieve” the ocean); and black (earth, one Olympic medallist (2 silver, 2 people united on islands’ soil) bronze for 100m and 200m, naTional anTHeM: 1996 and 2000), and 200m “Forged from the love of liberty in naTional flower: World Championship gold the fires of hope and prayer, with chaconia (“wild poinsettia” or medallist (1997). Current boundless faith in our destiny we “pride of Trinidad & Tobago”), a broadcaster for NBC in the USA solemnly declare: side by side flaming red forest flower george bovell iii: nation’s first Olympic medallist in swimming, winning Olympic bronze in the 200m individual medley (2004) Janelle penny coMMissiong: Miss Universe 1977 Hasely crawforD: nation’s first Olympic gold medallist, winning the men’s 100m dash (1976) Talk dE Talk Bacchanal: scandalous, social commotion, a rowdy event Fête: party (both noun and verb) Lime: hang out with friends Maco: to be nosy (or someone who is nosy) Mas: Carnival, masquerade Wine: both a noun and verb, describing sensual Trinbagonian dancing; ask for a demonstration! Above Former Miss Universe 1998 Wendy Fitzwilliam in carnival array (Martin Farinha) 14 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

HeaTHer HeaDley: Trinidad-born Tony Award-winning and Grammy-nominated singer and actress clr JaMes: prolific writer, historian, cultural and political figure, and leading voice in Pan- Africanist movement lennox kilgour: Olympic bronze medallist in weightlifting (1952) brian lara: multiple record-holding cricketer with two test match score records (375 runs not out in 1994 and 400 not out in 2004); highest first class score (501 not out, also in 1994); all-time leading run scorer in test cricket giselle laronDe-wesT: Miss World 1986 resolution for the establishment of the International Josanne lucas: Tobago-born sprinter, Criminal Court and the island’s first female World Championship medallist (400m hurdles in 2009) Jizelle salanDy: won her first junior WBA and WBC World Light Middleweight titles in peTer MinsHall: mas designer, multiple 2006, adding IWBF and WIBA titles by 2007. Died winner of Band of the Year titles, winner of T&T’s tragically in 2009 first Emmy Award for costuming of the 2002 Winter Olympics opening ceremony leslie “Tiger” sTewarT: boxer lifted the 1986 WBA Light Heavyweight belt; islands’ vs naipaul: Trinidadborn, knighted (UK, second World Champion 1990) Nobel Prize winner (Literature, 2000) ricHarD THoMpson: double 2008 clauDe noel: Tobago native and nation’s Olympic silver medallist (men’s 100m dash and first boxing World Champion, lifting the WBA’s World men’s 4x100m relay) and World Championship Lightweight title in 1981 silver medallist (men’s 4x100 relay) billy ocean: born Leslie Charles in kwaMe Ture: born Stokely Carmichael Trinidad, international pop star with hits like in Trinidad, former prime minister of the Black “Caribbean Queen” (1984) Panthers, leader of the All-African People’s Revolutionary Party Jean pierre: scored the most goals in the 1979 World Netball Championships to lead roDney wilkes: nation’s first Olympic T&T to victory, the first country to host and win the medallist for weightlifting (silver in 1948, bronze championships in 1952) renny quow: Tobago-born sprinter, winning DwigHT yorke: Tobago-born football star the island’s first medal (bronze) in the men’s 400m and leading striker for UK teams like Manchester at the World Championships (2009) United and Aston Villa. He was an integral part of Trinidad & Tobago’s unsucessful World Cup ria raMnarine: nation’s first female World campaign in 1989. Years later, he captained T&T Champion (2005), and WIBA Mini Flyweight title to an impressive debut at the 2006 World Cup in holder (2009) Germany, where the islands made history as the smallest country ever to qualify arTHur nr robinson: Former President of the republic, launched UN General Assembly Above Stephen Ames, T&T’s US PGA Tour golf professional (Mark Meredith) 15

T&T: NOW aNd ThEN THen 1884: Hosay Riots in Trinidad; Tobago’s sugar c 15,000 islands part of South America; settled by industry collapses -1,000 BC: Amerindians 1889-98: Tobago merged with Trinidad; Tobago 1498: Christopher Columbus lands in Trinidad Assembly disbanded on July 31, claims island for Spanish and 1903: Water Riots in Port of Spain; Red House names it after Catholic Holy Trinity burns down 1596: Tobago claimed by British 1908: commercial oil production begins in 1627–1650: Courlanders settle Tobago’s west coast southern Trinidad near Plymouth, and Dutch the east 1914: first calypso recorded in Trinidad 1699: Trinidad Amerindians rebel against 1925: first national elections (limited franchise) Capuchin missionaries (Arena Uprising) 1931: Piarco International Airport opens 1757: Trinidad’s Spanish governor moves capital 1935-41: first steelpans emerge in Laventille, to Port of Spain from St Joseph Trinidad 1768–9: first Tobago Assembly established; 1937: oilfield and labour strikes led in southern Scarborough made island’s capital Trinidad by Tubal Uriah “Buzz” Butler 1776: oldest forest reserve in western 1940: Crown Point Airport opens in Tobago; hemisphere designated in Tobago national airline British West Indies Airways 1781: French seize Tobago, convert it to sugar (BWIA) commences operations colony 1941: Chaguaramas peninsula 1783: Spanish governor Chacón’s Cedula de 1945: public emergence of steelbands; universal Población entices Catholic white and free suffrage implemented coloured settlers to Trinidad with land 1951: repeal of ordinance prohibiting activities incentives; rapid development begins of Spiritual “Shouter” Baptist faith 1790: great fire of Scarborough destroys much of 1956: self government under Eric Williams’ downtown; hurricane ravages island People’s National Movement (PNM) 1797: Trinidad captured by Sir Ralph 1958: islands join Federation of West Indies Abercromby’s British fleet 1960: Trinidad campus of University of the West 1801: massive slave uprising in Tobago quelled Indies (UWI) established 1806: first Chinese workers imported to Trinidad 1962: islands leave Federation, gain 1807: slave trading abolished in British empire independence from Britain 1808: great fire of Port of Spain destroys much 1963: Hurricane Flora devastates Tobago of the city 1970: “Black Power” uprising in Trinidad 1814: Tobago ceded to British under Treaty of 1974: Garfield Blackman (Ras Shorty I) releases Paris first soca album 1816: six companies of free blacks from the 1976: new republican constitution; president United States (mainly Baptist) settle in replaces British monarch as head of state southern Trinidad, and one in Tobago 1980: Tobago House of Assembly restored; 1834-8: slavery abolished – slaves apprenticed islands enjoy economic prosperity (1834) then emancipated (1838) 1983: oil prices fall, crippling local economy 1834-1917: indentured labour imported to Trinidad 1990: unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro- from other islands, China, Portugal, Syria, Islamist Jamaat al Muslimeen Lebanon, and India 1857: first oil well drilled in Trinidad near Pitch now Lake 2007: Caribbean Airlines replaces BWIA as 1858-84: Trinidad governor criminalises Carnival national carrier; record oil prices fuel activities economic boom 1881: Canboulay Riots in Trinidad 2008: economic slowdown Opposite page Design by Shurnel at T&T Fashion Week 2009 (Edison Boodoosingh) 16 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

Events CalENdar 17

January • 1 (public holiday): New Year’s Day • Carnival season begins • Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring Garden, Plymouth and Mt Pleasant • Sailing season begins • Tobago Carnival Caravan February • Carnival countdown begins • Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo, Franklyn and Bon Accord • Tobago Carnival Caravan • 12: Soca Monarch finals (Trinidad) • 13: Panorama finals (Trinidad) Top Carnival Queens semi-finals: Kadaffi Romney plays “Manzandaba In Flight” from “Africa – • 14: Dimanche Gras (Trinidad); Her People, Her Glory, Her Tears” (CaféMoka) Above An Orisha elder and devotee perform a ritual in honour of Oshun at the Ojubo Orisa Chinese New Year (year of the Omolu shrine in Chaguanas (Mariamma Kambon) Tiger) 18 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

of the colonial ban on the June “Shouter” Baptist faith, a fusion of African and Christian • Ganga Dhaara River Festival: traditions, with performances honours the descent of and religious observances India’s sacred River Ganges (Blanchisseuse, Trinidad) • Harvest Festivals (Tobago): April Lambeau, Bloody Bay and • 2–5 (with public holidays): Roxborough long Easter weekend features • Junior Tobago Heritage hot cross buns, horse racing Festival at the Santa Rosa track in • St Peter’s Day Fisherman’s Arima (Trinidad), and goat Festival (Tobago) and crab races in Tobago’s Mt • 3 (public holiday): Corpus Pleasant (Monday) and Buccoo Christi celebrated by Catholics (Tuesday) in honour of the sacramental • Jazz Artists on the Greens Eucharist (Pigeon Point, Tobago) • 4–12: WeBeat Festival (St • Pan Jazz in de Yard James, Trinidad) • Harvest Festival (Tobago): • 19 (public holiday): Labour Goodwood Day, marked by trade union • Jazz on the Beach (Tobago) marches and gatherings in • Pan in the 21st Century Fyzabad (Trinidad) • Point Fortin Borough Day (Trinidad): full week of J’ouvert, mas, pan and parties July • Tobago Jazz Experience • Charlotteville Fisherman’s • 11th Annual Trade & Fest (Tobago) • 15–16: Carnival Monday and Investment Convention • Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Tuesday (Trinidad) Castara and Black Rock • Carnival cooldowns • Jazz on the Hill (Trinidad) • 19–21: Tobago Carnival • Prime Minister’s Charity Golf Regatta (Tobago) May Classic (Tobago) • Beacon Cycling Series • Soca for Summer and other • Harvest Festivals (Tobago): big concerts featuring local and March Whim, Delaford, Belle Garden international stars • Argyle Falls cool down and Mason Hall • South Caribbean Open Golf (Tobago) • La Divina Pastora (Siparia, Tournament (Tobago) • Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Trinidad) • Steelpan Music Festival Mt St George, Mason Hall, • Maypole Festival (Tobago) (Trinidad) Roxborough, Bon Accord • 29: Rainbow Cup • Tobago Games • Missionary Love Feast in International Triathlon • Tobago Heritage Festival Moriah on Palm Sunday (Tobago) • Tourism Adventure Park or T&T • 20: Jazz Artists on the Greens • Taste Trinidad & Tobago: Road Trip: displays, tours, and (St Augustine, Trinidad) celebrates the islands’ culinary live entertainment • Phagwa (Holi) dexterity • 30–Aug 4: 11th Great Fête • Tobago International Game • Tobago Culinary Festival Weekend (Tobago) Fishing Tournament • Rapsofest: the Power of the • 4–7: T&T Golf Open Oral Traditions • Turtle nesting season begins • Trinidad & Tobago Fashion August • 30 (public holiday): Spiritual Week • 1 (public holiday): “Shouter” Baptist Liberation • 30 (public holiday): Indian Emancipation Day Day commemorates the end Arrival Day • Arima Borough Day: J’ouvert, 19

steelpan, calypso and parties the goddess of love, fertility runs through December marking the borough’s and inland waters (Trinidad) anniversary (Trinidad) • 24: Santa Rosa Festival • San Fernando Jazz Festival • Best Village competition (Arima, Trinidad) (Trinidad) begins, runs through November • 31 (public holiday): • Tobago Fest: parties, street • Carib Great Race Independence Day parade and J’ouvert • Castara Fisherman’s Fête • Tobago International Gospel (Tobago) Festival • Harvest Festival (Tobago): September • Trinidad & Tobago Film Speyside • Eid-ul-Fitr (public holiday) Festival • Muhtadi International • International Open Water • Turtle watching season ends Drumming Festival: started Swim • 24 (public holiday): Republic in Canada by Trinidad- • Horse racing classics in Day born Muhtadi Thomas, and Arima: Royal Oak Derby, Santa highlights different cultures Rosa Oaks and Caribbean around the call of the drums Champion Stakes (Trinidad) October (Tobago) • Panyard Sensations • 14: Amerindian Heritage • Osun River Festival: marked • Parang season: begins with Day, where descendants from by Orisa devotees celebrating competition at month’s end, around the region gather for 20 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com 20 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

Opposite page Celebrating Divali in Felicity (Edison Boodoosingh) Above Part of the annual Independence Day Parade (Mariamma Kambon) a smoke ceremony and street • Harvest Festivals (Tobago): recreation day procession in Arima (Trinidad) Plymouth, Black Rock, Les • Paramin Parang Festival • Blue Food Festival (Tobago) Coteaux, Moriah, Scarborough, (Trinidad) • Coast-2-Coast Adventure Montgomery • Tobago Flying Colours: annual Race (Trinidad) • Pan is Beautiful XII kite flying festival in Plymouth • European Film Festival • Scarborough Cup Golf • Hosay (Trinidad) (Trinidad) Tournament (Tobago) • 25 (public holiday): Christmas • Harvest Festival (Tobago): • Tobago Christmas Caravan Day Patience Hill • University of the West Indies • 26 (public holiday): Boxing • National Tourism Week International Half Marathon Day, marked with horse racing • Ramleela festival (Trinidad) and parties • Steelpan & Jazz Festival (Trinidad) Many dates are set just before December the events are scheduled, and • Assembly Day: Tobago House are always subject to change or November of Assembly celebrates cancellation. For more, see our • Divali (public holiday) and awards Tobagonians’ Festivals sections under each • Best Village competition achievements, along with island, and visit us online at finals exhibitions and a sports and www.discovertnt.com 21

TObagO The Arnos Vale waterwheel in Tobago (1857) (Mark Meredith) 23

TObagO hOSpiTaliTy Tobago offers something for everyone. From Where to start the busy southwest to the rainforests of the • Abraham Realty (Scarborough): 639-3325, interior, you can find comfortable, quality www.abrahamrealty.com lodging. • Belleviste Apartments (Crown Point): 639-9351, You can choose a luxury or budget hotel, www.belleviste.com • Blue Haven Hotel a beach resort, an elegant villa, a self- (Scarborough): 660-7400, catering apartment, a homely guesthouse, www.bluehavenhotel.com • Blue Waters Inn (Speyside): or a simple cottage in a quiet fishing 660-2583, www.bluewatersinn.com village. Most choices offer airport transfers • Crown Point Beach Hotel and visitor activities including tours led by (Crown Point): 639-8781, www.crownpointbeachhotel. experienced nature guides. com arounD crown poinT THeMeD HoliDays price & availabiliTy Hotels and resorts are thick on There are lodgings geared to Tobago is working to extend its the ground in Crown Point, near specific interests, whether you’re accommodation options. Two the airport, including Blue Haven, on a diving trip (try the Blue new large hotels are in the works, Crown Point Hotel and Tropikist. Waters Inn in Speyside), a golfing including the island’s first five-star There are self-catering apartments holiday (luxurious villas like Sans facility at Culloden Reef. at Belleviste and Store Bay Holiday Souci will help you rest up before Until then, make sure you book Resort, and stunning villas like teeing off), or an escape into ahead for traditionally popular those at Stonehaven, Seahorse Inn nature (try the Footprints Eco times of the year such as Easter, and Plantation Beach Villas a little Resort). Carnival, the Jazz festival and way up the coast. holiday weekends. 24 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

• Footprints Eco Resort (Golden Lane): 660-0416, www.footprintseco-resort.com • Ocean Point Resort (Lowlands): 639-0973, www.oceanpoint.com • Plantation Beach Villas (Black Rock): 639-9377, www.plantationbeachvillas.com • Seahorse Inn (Black Rock): 639-0686, www.seahorseinntobago.com • Store Bay Holiday Resort (Crown Point): 639- 8810, www.storebayholidays.com • Tropikist Beach Hotel (Crown Point): 639-8512, Crown Point Beach Hotel www.tropikist.com Tel: (868) 639-8781/3 • Fax: (868) 639-8731 • Villa Sans Souci (Lowlands): 639-3325, E-mail: reservations@crownpointbeachhotel.com www.villassanssouci.com www.crownpointbeachhotel.com • Villas at Stonehaven Set on seven acres of beautifully landscaped (Black Rock): 639-0361, grounds overlooking Store Bay, we offer www.stonehavenvillas.com ocean view accommodation with kitchenette. The Chart House poolside restaurant and Sundowners bar cater for your entire food planTaTion beacH villas and beverage requirements. Recreational The Caribbean sea, a beautiful beach, 6 facilities include tennis courts, table tennis, luxurious villas, a grove of trees. Ideal for shuffleboard and free internet facilities for families, weddings and reunions. We assure you our guests. From our grounds you can walk a taste of paradise. down steps that lead to Store Bay Beach.

muSiC and the arts Once, Tobago was strictly a place to relax and unwind. Not any more. The entertainment landscape has been expanding, and Tobago is attracting international acts and patrons Veteran calypsonian Winston Bailey (The Mighty Shadow) performs as a special guest at Dimanche Gras, 2009 (Mark Lyndersay) 29

bars & clubs For chilling out after sunset, there are plenty of bars, clubs, hotels and restaurants that offer good drinks, live performances, tasty food and good company. For happy hours, try Sundowners Bar with its sunset views of Store Bay, or the Pavilion Restaurant and Seahorse Inn which both offer exquisite views of Stonehaven Bay. Sports bars like the snazzy folk perforMance new Bar Code in Scarborough The Itsy Bitsy Folk Theatre presents dinner theatre several (639-CODE, www.barcodetobago. Tuesdays during the year. The dance and music communities com) are an emerging format (particularly the drummers) are quite vibrant on the island: in Tobago. Here you can enjoy many groups meet regularly every week for practice, and guest an array of signature drinks and at various events. These are also the groups who take the stage local or international dishes, at the Tobago Heritage Festival in July – not to be missed if you while taking in a seaside view. really want to know Tobago. You can shoot some pool 30 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

afterwards, catch one of the cineMas aficionados descending on the sports games on their big-screen There is one cinema in island for the annual jazz festival. TV, or enjoy a live performance. Scarborough, and a multiplex While the clubs are really cinema at the new Gulf City visual arTs pumping on the weekends, some – Lowlands Mall. There is a small but impressive especially in the Crown Point area visual arts community in – present mid-week entertainment, Music Tobago. Artists like Luise Kimme with local bands, drummers, Tobago is staging big music (639-0257, www.luisekimme. dance groups and theme nights. concerts these days, often com) and Martin and Rachael In season, Golden Star presents featuring Jamaican dancehall or Superville (owners of The Art variety shows and the Scouting for reggae singers – more choices on Gallery) have impressive studios Talent competition (followed by DJ the entertainment menu. with original artwork on display music and dancing). Not that music is confined or for sale. The Tobago Museum Friday and Saturday are big to big events. Bars, clubs, hotels (639-3970) at Fort King George nights at The Shade nightclub, and restaurants feature local in Scarborough exhibits local art. while Tobago’s other club, The performers as regular and rotating Other well-known artists include Deep, is open every night. And of headliners, with theme nights Jim Armstrong, Kevin Ayoung- course, you can’t forget “Sunday reserved for hip-hop, jazz, Latin, Julien, Edward Hernandez, David School” every Sunday night at reggae, R&B, and of course Knott, and Earl Manswell. Buccoo Village, where both tourists calypso, soca and steelpan music. and locals gather along the streets April is jazz month, with for much more, visit of the village to enjoy local food, local, regional and international us online at www. steel band music, and popular DJs. jazz (and non-jazz) talent and discovertobago.com Opposite page (top) Folk Fiesta Heritage dancer doing the belè (Oswin Browne) Opposite page (bottom) Tambrin drums are warmed by the fire which gives them their unique sound (Oswin Browne) 31

Buccoo Bay (Mark Meredith) 32 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

Beauty and ThE bEaCh Tobago is truly a beach-lover’s paradise. Here are some of our favourites. 33

Around Crown Point food stalls, changing rooms grange beacH (aka THe wall): Just past the Mt pigeon poinT: Tobago’s canoe bay: Tobago’s Irvine Golf Course, this is an ideal most famous beach. Protected calmest and shallowest bathing beach for swimming by Buccoo Reef, the calm waters beach, perfect for young families. make it ideal for families. Great Rarely crowded, with excellent sToneHaven bay: for watersports enthusiasts; facilities including bar and magnificent, rugged beach with some glass-bottom boat tours beachfront cabanas. Entrance fee good facilities start from here. Entrance fee MT irvine: a pair of Leeward coast sTore bay: extremely beaches offering excellent popular (and busy) beach for facilities, snorkelling and surfing casTara: stunning, quiet both locals and visitors. Great for (in season). The Mt Irvine Beach and unspoilt beach in a friendly swimming, and snorkelling under Hotel side offers refreshments and fishing village, with calm water coral cliffs at southern end. Glass- beach amenities. Snorkelling gear, and fine golden sand. Enjoy the bottom boat tours leave from canoes and hobie cats can be sight of fishermen bringing in their here. Excellent craft shopping, hired onsite nets (“pulling seine”) or bread baked in old-fashioned dirt ovens. Excellent facilities including a restaurant, stores and craft stalls. Accommodation nearby englisHMan’s bay: quiet and secluded crescent- shaped bay, hidden by trees. Its deep, clear waters offer good swimming and snorkelling. Craft shopping and restaurant onsite culloDen beacH: good snorkelling. Follow the signs to Footprints Eco Resort king peTer’s bay: quiet, calm bay with dark sand. Good snorkelling and spear fishing parlaTuvier: fishing village with a tranquil beach and a few snackettes blooDy bay: secluded, breezy beach with clear blue waters, nothing at all like its name! Man o’ war bay: main beach near Charlotteville, ideal for swimming. Accommodation nearby piraTe’s bay: stunning and unspoilt beach with crystal- clear water and a fabulous view. Accessed via half-mile long dirt track, or by sea 34 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

Windward coast bacoleT bay: used as a location in the 1960s Swiss Family Robinson film, this black-sand beach is popular with surfers bellevue bay: accessed off the Belle Garden Bay Road junction, the waters here are calm by windward-side standards king’s bay: picturesque long stretch with calm water and good facilities. Fresh fish on sale; fisherman “pull seine” in the evenings speysiDe: Tobago’s dive capital. Speyside and Blue Waters beaches both offer tranquillity and great snorkelling; bE iN ThE kNOW… the offshore reef is within swimming distance. Glass- Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am–5pm or 10am–6pm bottom boat trips to Angel Reef, where available, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate Goat Island and Little Tobago unsafe bathing areas start here. Watersports facilities, accommodation and restaurants Permits are required both for camping and for turtle-watching abound on the nation’s beaches. Contact a reputable tour guide, your hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arrangements for much more, visit us online at www. Tropical sun can quickly give light skins a bad burn, even discovertobago.com through cloud, so use your sunscreen From top Store Bay, Crown Point (Mark Meredith), Carnival visitor Tomas Mikuzis from Miami relaxing in Tobago after enjoying his first Carnival (Peter Sheppard) Opposite page Pigeon Point, Tobago (Peter Sheppard) 35

lET’S EaT OuT As in every culture, food and festivity go hand in hand in Tobago. 36 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

Many of Tobago’s good restaurants take advantage of the island’s exquisite landscape. Breathtaking hillside or ocean views, waterwheels and sugar mills can all be part of the dining experience. Most restaurants are in the island’s touristy southwestern tip, Scarborough and the northeast. Roadside eateries abound, serving home-style Tobagonian dishes, while trendy sports bars offer their own cocktails of food, drink, and entertainment. No matter where you eat, you’re unlikely to go wrong if you choose fresh seafood, Tobago’s signature crab-and- dumpling, or freshly squeezed tropical juices. And Tobago’s snacks and desserts will indulge any sweet tooth. Where to start www.crownpointbeachhotel. entertainment at peak times com of year. 639-0686, www. • Bar Code Sports Bar & Grill • Cocoa House Restaurant seahorseinntobago.com (Scarborough): this stylish & Bar (Golden Lane): 660- new sports bar is located 0416, www.footprints-resort. right at the Scarborough port, com giving you relaxing views of • Sea Horse Inn Restaurant the ships and ferries coming & Bar (Black Rock): featured and going. Enjoy a range of on the UK’s Richard & Judy signature drinks and local and show (GMTV) and the Travel international dishes (including Channel, there’s a little a local staple, fish broth); something for any palette shoot some pool; watch big – from seafood to steaks, sports games on their big- local creole to international sHore THings screen TV; or rock to the beat and fusion. Enjoy beautiful 25 Milford Road, Lambeau. of their live music acts. 639- oceanside breezes and views T: 635-1072 CODE, www.barcodetobago. of Stonehaven beach, where Delightful seaside verandah com giant leatherbacks come dining for brunches, lunches • Blue Waters Inn Restaurant ashore March–August. Sip and teas in a setting of (Speyside): 660-2583, www. delicious cocktails at the Caribbean craft and rhythm. bluewatersinn.com bar, or dive in to a delicious Mon-Fri 10am–6pm, Sat • Chart House Restaurant 3-course meal under 8am–4pm. (Crown Point): 639-8781, the stars. There’s nightly Above A selection of herbs, seasonings and vegetables used in local cooking (Giancarlo Lalsingh) Opposite page This local creation of sliced baigan (melongene) topped with sliced onion, fresh tomato, cheese and local herbs is a tasty appetiser (Marc Seyon/Very Caribbean Limited – verycaribbean.com) 37

Taste of Tobago… sauce with lime, cucumber, balls, sugar cake, cashew pepper and onion cake, cassava pone, coconut Baked pig: the whole pig is sweetbread, black cake, ice cooked in the earth, most often Curried crab ‘n dumpling: cream and desserts flavoured at the Saraka (Salaka) Feast Tobago’s signature; delicious with fruit, coconut and even during the Tobago Heritage and extremely filling! Guinness … how many pounds Festival have you gained? Oil down: breadfruit and meat Blue food: any ground provision boiled down with coconut milk Tom tom: cooked half-ripe or root vegetable (dasheen, plantain pounded in a mortar, eddoes, sweet potatoes, cassava, Pacro water: broth made with making a kind of pudding et al) chiton or “sea cockroach” (said to have aphrodisiac properties) Yabba: thick soup with Bush tea: brewed from herbs dumpling, fish, pigtail, potato, and plants like graterwood, Squash: drink made from lime breadfruit, cassava, dasheen, trumpet, bois canot, lemon and lemon juice green banana and anything grass, lime bud and fever grass else the chef feels moved to Sweets: toolum, guava cheese, include. Other popular soups Conch souse: large sea snails pawpaw balls, shaddock are sancoche, cowheel and fish boiled and served cold in a salty candy, tamarind balls, benne broth Below Fried samosas stuffed with meat or vegetables have been adopted into the local cuisine of Trinidad and are often served as appetisers or party snacks. (© Marc Seyon/Very Caribbean Limited - verycaribbean.com) 38 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

Bon Accord Lagoon (Oswin Browne) Small island, big advENTurE Tobago has been voted the world’s top eco-tourism destination (World Travel Awards, 2003). Fertile and pristine, and blessed with continental biodiversity from the time when Tobago (and Trinidad) were joined to the South American mainland, Tobago is home to a wealth of ecosystems. It brims with activities and adventures to satisfy the most active eco-explorer – and there’s plenty to interest the more laid-back nature lover too. 39

World-renowned biodiversity For centuries, Tobago’s unique worth has been appreciated and protected, on both land and sea. Tobago’s central mountain range (rising to 876m/1,890ft) encompasses the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere, which became a reserve in 1776. In 1973, Buccoo Reef was designated a nationally protected marine area. The Buccoo Reef/Bon Accord Lagoon Complex is the island’s first Ramsar Site, recognised as a wetland of international importance. It embraces the ancient inshore coral reef system on the leeward coast and the Bon Accord mangrove swamps and seagrass beds, where the rarely seen green sea turtle may be found. Here are some of our favourite eco adventures. Eco adventures on land Trails: hiking, mountain biking and horseback trails carry you into the heart of the island. The most frequented hiking area is the Main Ridge forest, easily accessibly by the Gilpin and Niplig trails. Biking enthusiasts can opt for easy trails, like those passing through the boardwalk around the Lowlands area, or extreme mountain trails that can be reached only on foot – all offer spectacular vistas. Guides are recommended or required waTerfalls: experienced guides can escort you through the rainforest or to the 3-tiered Argyle Falls near Roxborough. Visitors to Rainbow Waterfall can experience local cultivation techniques while literally sharing in the fruits of their labour Tobago cocoa esTaTe: a working cocoa plantation and heritage park, where visitors can participate in the fermentation and drying processes. Once considered a dying art, these techniques are being revitalised for the first time since Hurricane Flora decimated Tobago’s cocoa crops in 1963 grafTon caleDonia wilDlife birD sancTuary: formerly a cocoa plantation, it is now a nature centre complete with winding trails frequented by the ‘king of the woods’, or mot mot. Twice daily feedings guarantee excellent bird sightings offsHore islanDs: superlative places for bird watching. The imposing frigate birds seen circling high above the ocean roost on St Giles. Rare red-billed tropic birds nest December–July on Little Tobago aDvenTure naTure reserve: a 12-acre estate in Arnos Vale shelters many wild birds. The prolific flora attract butterflies, and there are established organic orchards including mango and citrus TurTle waTcHing: one of Tobago’s best-known nature activities is watching the ancient nesting ritual of the sea turtles (March–August). 40 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

Although five species of marine turtles are either native to or migratory to Tobago, the most common are the giant leatherback, hawksbill and green. All (and their eggs) are legally protected. Leatherbacks come ashore primarily in Black Rock, while the coral reefs of the northeast welcome hawksbills. Greens can be found near seagrass beds around the island Eco adventures at sea glass-boTToM boaT Tours: one of the most popular marine activities, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. A tour of Buccoo Reef includes the intriguingly named Nylon Pool, and the other-worldly Coral Gardens replete with staghorn and star coral, sea fans and other octocorals. Speyside visitors have a chance to see the world’s largest brain coral Above A newly hatched turtle makes a dash across Grafton Beach Tobago for the safety of the sea (Giancarlo Lalsingh) Below Gilpin Trail, one of many in Tobago’s Main Ridge (Oswin Browne) 41

snorkelling & Diving: available island-wide bE iN ThE kNOW… for every level of expertise. Drift • Permits are needed for some locations and activities (like snorkelling and diving in coastal camping and turtle-watching), but any reputable guide or areas minimises damage to tour operator will arrange these the living reefs. In addition to an assortment of tropical fish, • Don’t attempt a long hike or eco adventure without a in November–June huge manta reputable, certified guide: it’s easy to get lost or have an rays glide silently alongside the accident undersea visitor • Snakebites and scorpion stings are rare; the biggest waTersporTs: enjoy kite natural danger is the Portuguese Man-o’-War (vinegar surfing, kayaking, and jet skiing: is good if you get stung), and the sap and fruit of the popular spots are Pigeon Point, manchineel tree (most common on beaches). Seek local Mt Irvine and Charlotteville. For advice on whether these are present traditional surfboarding, Mt Irvine and Grange Bay are exceptional; • Wear long trousers for lengthy bush treks and never wear and the wind is just right for kite open-toed sandals. Comfortable shoes with good grip are surfing at Little Rockly Bay. There recommended are chartered boats that sail up the coast serving refreshment in a • Take a little knapsack with a change of clothes, socks and wonderful Caribbean atmosphere something to eat, stored in a waterproof bag. If you carry a camera that’s not waterproof, you’ll want to keep it here gaMe fisHing: for those too who prefer catching fish to swimming alongside them, the • Avoid wearing black: it attracts mosquitoes and if you’re in T&T Game Fishing Association the open, soaks up the heat has six fishing tournaments scheduled for 2010. For two • When turtle watching, do not use flash photography, touch years running, blue marlin or otherwise disturb nesting turtles, as this can cause them over 800lbs have been caught severe distress here. Environmentally sound techniques are employed; a • Please keep Tobago clean: don’t discard your rubbish in catch and release programme waterways and in the outdoors ensures that non-champion sized catches are tagged and returned Whatever your pleasure, you are far more likely to run short to the sea. Tobago’s peak fishing of time than of things to do in Tobago; perhaps this is why so season runs November–May many visitors return, year after year. Opposite page A cocrico (Ortalis ruficauda), the national bird of Tobago, Grafton Bird Sancuary, Tobago (Giancarlo Lalsingh) 42 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

Where to start • Footprints Eco Resort (Golden Lane): 660-0416, www.footprints-resort.com • Frankie’s Tours & Rentals (Mt Irvine): 631-0369, www.frankietours-tobago.com • Ocean Experience (Crown Point): 631-8430, A world of diversity oceanexperiencetgo@yahoo.com Tobago has an incredible degree of biodiversity for its small size. Its • Plantation Beach Watersports abundance of flora and fauna include: (Bon Accord): 639-SAIL, • 210 recorded bird species www.sailtobago.com • 133 species of butterflies (including the impressive blue emperor) • 25 species of snake (none of them poisonous) • Sherman’s Auto Rentals & • 17 species of bats Ground Tours • 14 species of frog (Lambeau): 639-2292, • 12 species of mammals www.shermansrental.com • 5 species of marine turtles (including the endangered giant leatherback) for more, visit us online • 6 species of lizard at www.discovertobago. com 43

buSiNESS braNChES OuT Tobago’s economy is almost equally divided between the public sector and tourism, and the global economic climate, including a new travel tax implemented in the UK, has significantly impacted the tourism industry. The Airports Authority tallied international visitor air arrivals to Tobago at 56,517 for 2008, down 15% from 66,266 in 2007. Tobago has also suffered from inflationary pressures over the last few years, particularly in the area of food prices. While the tourism industry is expected to recover and rebound strongly after the downturn, economic diversification is not only desirable but necessary. To this end, the much- publicised Cove Eco-Industrial Estate and Business Park (CEIDP), brainchild of the Tobago House of Assembly (THA), is nearing completion. Promoting light industry, CEIDP will accommodate knowledge-based industry including information technology, light manufacturing, agro- processing and export as well as selected downstream activities related to natural gas. It will also Where to start house a receiving/metering facility for natural gas from Trinidad. Cove Eco-Industrial & Business Park: Tobago House of Assembly Investment is encouraged (Scarborough): 631-2683, www.tobagocove.com through various tax holidays, Tobago Hotel & Tourism Association (Carnbee): 639-9543, www. incentives and exemptions, tobagohoteltourism.com including those on import duty. Trinidad & Tobago Chamber of Industry & Commerce: Tobago Division Additional incentives apply to the (Scarborough): 639-2669, www.chamber.org.tt export-processing zone. Potential Trinidad & Tobago Entertainment Company: 624-0514, www. investors are invited to apply ttentonline.com for space in the business park Trinidad & Tobago Film Company: 625-FILM (3456), www. and can contact Vernie Shield, trinidadandtobagofilm.com Chairman, Tobago Division of the T&T Chamber of Commerce, for for much more, visit us online at www. information concerning investment discovertobago.com in Tobago. 44 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

Above Goat racing at Buccoo (Oswin Browne) Opposite page Unit Trust building, Scarborough (Oswin Browne) ThE FESTivE SpiriT Tobago stages a major festival or event every few months and mini- festivals every month. It’s a wonder there’s time to rest. Here are some of the biggest. 45

HarvesT & fisHMerMan’s fesTivals There are Sunday harvest festivals in one of the island’s villages every month, where villagers share food and drink and communal celebration. Fisherman’s festivals take place in the coastal villages during the year, mainly on St Peter’s Day (June 29). Both events begin with church services in the morning and end with eating, drinking, and partying in the night! carnival Tobagonians enjoy a Carnival season that is more laid back than the sister isle’s, and focuses more on the theatrical and folk elements of Carnival. Most play traditional mud mas (said to be therapeutic for the skin) – which of course necessitates an ocean swim afterwards. The THA’s Inter-department Queen and Calypso Show, and the Roxborough Afro-Queen and Windward Calypso Show, are staple seasonal events. The legend of Gang Gang Sarah It’s a story that has been passed down for generations. Gang Gang Sarah was a wise witch (or, depending on who you ask, a soucouyant – a noctural bloodsucking creature of local folklore that can turn itself into a ball of fire) who flew from Africa to Tobago centuries ago in search of her family. In her old age, after her husband’s death, she climbed a giant silk cotton tree (sacred in many indigenous religions) hoping to fly back to her homeland. But having eaten local salt she was unable to fly, and fell to her death. The “Witch’s Grave” marks where she fell. goaT & crab racing At Easter time, only Friday and Monday are official holidays, but Easter Tuesday is not really a day for work in Tobago: everyone heads to Buccoo for the Family Day and Goat and Crab Races. There is special training for the goat ‘jockeys’, and a track has been constructed especially for this race; even Virgin Atlantic’s Richard Branson has taken part. The Festival has been hosted in Buccoo for nearly 80 years, and in fact is so nice it’s done twice: first from Easter Sunday to the following Tuesday, and then again for the Heritage Festival mid-year. Jazz fesTival April’s Tobago Jazz Experience replaced the Plymouth Jazz Festival in 2009. While it still has international headliners as part of the show, like its predecessor, the new focus is more on local, regional, and “world music” artists. A few shows are free, and there is a Caravan feature which takes some performances to different villages around Tobago. Tobago culinary fesTival Produced each May by the Tourism Department of the THA, this free international culinary event invites you to sample dishes from around the world, and especially those native to Tobago, all in the beautiful and relaxed environment of Pigeon Point. 46 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

FESTival TradiTiONS Moriah Wedding: signature Tobago Heritage Festival event, featuring groom in stovepipe hat and tailcoat and bride with trousseau on head, processing slowly with the distinctive three-step “brush back” Tambrin: quintessential Tobagonian music, driven by three shallow goatskin tambrin drums (high pitched cutter, roller, and boom bass), fiddle, and steel triangle. Accompanies social events Reel, Jig and Saraka: indigenous dances from Pembroke, with roots in West African rituals invoking the ancestors, and accompanied by tambrin music. Libations are offered at the beginning of reels. Saraka feast held in Pembroke during Tobago Heritage Festival Speech bands: Tobago Carnival tradition, featuring cast of costumed characters speechifying in rhyme. Left A belè dancer performs during the visit of HRH the Prince of Wales to Tobago (Giancarlo Lalsingh) Right Royal Sweet Fingers, the most popular tambrin band in Tobago, warm their tambrins over an open flame (Oswin Browne) 47

Below The Great Race takes place at greaT feTe & carib greaT race the end of August (Martin Farinha) Opposite page Tobago’s new The Great Race (August) is a major event that draws Trinidadians to Tobago Lowlands Mall in droves. First held in 1969, this 84-mile speed-boat race from Trinidad’s Gulf of Paria to Crown Point in Tobago ends in the ultimate beach party (which starts well before the boats reach the finish line and ends in the wee hours of the next morning). The race starts early in the morning, and the first boats normally arrive at about 9am on the beach. Originally tied to the Great Race festivities, Tobago’s Great Fête Weekend (July/August) is now a separate five-day beach party at Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Mt Irvine. HeriTage fesTival sees the dasheen plant – all of The Heritage Festival (July) is it – used to prepare all kinds of the premier cultural event on the mouth-watering dishes, including island, with a new theme every bread, cookies, lasagne, and year. Each village produces an even ice-cream. The festival takes event showcasing the island’s place in the countryside amidst unique mores and traditions in the lush green forest of the Main dance, music, cuisine, story- Ridge, and includes a culinary telling, drama and more. The competition, a cultural show, a festival serves not only as an mini zoo and sometimes a queen entertainment event, but a way show. of teaching and passing on communal values and customs. for a full listing of annual events and blue fooD fesTival public holidays, visit the This October event brings the calendar section of this whole island to Bloody Bay on book. and for much more, the northwest coast. A truly visit us online at www. unique culinary experience, it discovertobago.com 48 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

a NEW lEvEl of shopping in Tobago Tobagonian ingenuity ensures that your shopping experience here will be unique. Rustic or elegant, utilitarian or ornamental, there is truly something for everyone’s taste and shopping list (including yours!). 49

Below left Tobago’s craftsmen carve calabash shells into a variety of shapes including African-influenced masks and assorted other hanging baskets and vessels. These are available throughout the island, including at this stall at the Store Bay beach facility. (© Marc Seyon/Very Caribbean Limited - verycaribbean.com) Below right Pan Man Craft, Crown Point Airport, Tobago (Nneka Edwards) local crafT THe Mall experience One-of-a-kind hand-crafted items Completed last year, the Gulf City Lowlands Mall is a one-stop are a good buy, and are widely commercial centre for clothing, shoes, pharmaceuticals and personal available near Crown Point. care items, books, accessories, souvenirs, jewellery, home furnishings, Shore Things in Lambeau offers banking, and fine wines and cigars. There is a comfortable food court, original art and craft (all-natural and the new MovieTowne multiplex cinema is adjacent. The Mall is fruit soaps, calabash, ceramics, conveniently located just off the highway between Crown Point and fabric, paintings and prints, pottery, Scarborough. and more) as well as food and There is a smaller mall in Lower Scarborough, hosting a number of drink in an idyllic setting. shops and businesses. At Bago-to-go in Lowlands, you can find hand-crafted dolls, jewellery, pottery, sculptures, fooD & supplies textiles, and other trinkets. Grocery stores can be found from Crown Point to Scarborough, the The kiosks at Store Bay sell largest in Canaan and Carnbee. Specialty food items are available anything from local sweets to in Mt Pleasant at Moreshead. Small parlours, dry goods stores and hand-tooled leather goods. Most produce stands are located almost everywhere. are locally produced, though The Scarborough Market, next to the Scarborough Mall and best imported clothing, beach wraps visited on a Friday or Saturday, specialises in fish, fruit, vegetables and and souvenirs are also for sale. local foods. Similar items are sold at Pigeon Vendors at the port in Scarborough and opposite the check-in area Point and Scarborough Market. at Crown Point airport sell traditional candies in sizes that travel well. bago To go Fortune Plaza, Canaan, Tobago. T: 631-0068 Bago To Go is no run of the mill souvenir & craft shop. Unique wares of metal sculpture, batik, banana leaf jewelry, calabash, dolls, hand made ceramic and more will compel and entice you. 51

TOuriNg & ExplOriNg Tobago may be tiny, but between the historical landmarks that tell of the island’s complex colonial history (it changed hands some 31 times in colonial days) and its stunning natural attractions, there is a lot to experience. To explore, you can book a tour with a registered tour operator, or rent a vehicle and go exploring on your own. If you limit your stops, you can tour the entire island in a day. Here are 20 of our favourites. Crown Point & the pigeon poinT Nylon Pool is a warm, metre-deep HeriTage park: this beach sandbar in the lagoon. It’s said southwest with its distinctive jetty and carat- swimming here will make you feel thatched cabana is a busy and ten years younger, and lovers who sTore bay: one of vibrant spot, and a prime party kiss underwater are destined to Tobago’s most popular beaches, location. Good food, shopping, and remain together forever. Glass- great for swimming and watersports opportunities. Some bottom boat tours depart Pigeon snorkelling. Great craft shopping glass-bottom boat tours depart Point and Store Bay twice daily and restaurant on site, and here for Buccoo Reef glass-bottom boat tours leave kiMMe MuseuM (“THe from here buccoo reef & nylon casTle”): workshop and pool: a must on any visit to gallery of German-born sculptor forT MilforD: a perfect Tobago. Stretching from Pigeon Luise Kimme, who carves three- spot for enjoying a Tobago sunset Point to Buccoo Bay, an arc of metre-high Tobago dancers and overlooking the Leeward coast, five reef flats is home to some folklore characters from solid this fort was built in 1777 by the 40 species of coral. It is rich in slabs of wood. Open Sundays British. Only a few cannon and marine life, from tiny jewelfish to 10am–2pm, small entrance fee: walls remain reef sharks and barracuda. The 639-0257, www.luisekimme.com 52 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

Below Fort King George in Scarborough, Tobago (Mark Lyndersay) Opposite page The entrance to the old Arnos Vale sugar factory in Tobago, which houses examples of production facilities from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (Nisha Kong) Scarborough boTanical garDens: its vast grounds with majestic trees and captivating views provide the chance to relax among brilliant flambouyants, silk cotton trees, and avenues of royal palms forT king george & Tobago MuseuM: Tobago’s main fort, perched at 140m (460ft) above sea level, with magnificent views of Scarborough, Bacolet, up the Windward coast, and south over Lowlands. The site, perhaps Tobago’s best preserved, includes a military cemetery, old chapel and cell block. The Tobago Museum displays the history of Tobago’s early Amerindian era and colonial days grafTon caleDonia plyMouTH: the Courlander range of birdlife and a butterfly wilDlife sancTuary: Monument is a striking sculpture garden, and is shelter for former cocoa estate which, commemorating 17th-century endangered species following 1963’s Hurricane Flora, settlers from Courland (now part evolved into a bird sanctuary. Offers of Latvia). Also visit Fort James arnos vale river nature trails and scenic hiking and the Mystery Tombstone with esTaTe & waTerwHeel: its cryptic inscription: “She was a beautiful and rustic, featuring forT benneTT: a mother without knowing it, and a one of the best-preserved beautiful lookout point over wife without letting her husband colonial-era waterwheels Stonehaven Bay, complete with a know it, except by her kind (1857) on the islands, great little pavilion and small garden indulgences to him.” bird watching opportunities, and several nature trails, one to an bon accorD lagoon: Leeward coast Amerindian site and old slave a popular spot for birdwatchers; village some boatmen take visitors to aDvenTure farM & a small coral white-sand beach naTure reserve: this Main riDge: rising to inside the lagoon called No Man’s 12-acre organic estate grows 576m (1,890ft), this spinal Land for barbecues a variety of fruits. It supports a ridge runs down two-thirds of 53

the island. Declared a protected forest reserve in speysiDe: known for its fantastic diving. 1776, it is the oldest in the western hemisphere. There are magnificent views from the Speyside A favourite trail is Gilpin Trace, an easy 45-minute Lookout. The village has remained charmingly walk to a waterfall. A certified guide is strongly subdued despite its diving mecca status. There’s recommended a Tourist office, good dive shops, watersports operators and good restaurants cHarloTTeville: legendary for its peace and beauty, it is an excellent dive centre with its liTTle Tobago: just 2km2 sq (1.2 sq own dive shops miles), a trekkers’ and bird watcher’s idyll. Once a haven for imported Birds of Paradise from New Windward coast Guinea which were wiped out by hurricanes, the island is now a bird sanctuary. Glass-bottom boat granby poinT: relaxing stop-off point on tours (TT$150) depart Blue Waters Inn, Speyside, your way up the windward coast. A beachfront area twice daily and playground lie below the fort flagsTaff Hill: at the northern tip of argyle falls: Tobago’s premier waterfall Tobago, reached via an unpaved road from the crest and a highlight of the Windward coast drive. A of the hill before descending into Charlotteville. 15-minute forest walk brings you to the stunning It was the site of an American military lookout three-tiered waterfall. A guide, available at the and radio tower during World War II. The view is visitor centre, is recommended. Entrance fee, www. panoramic, encompassing St Giles Islands and the argylewaterfall.com village of Charlotteville. 54 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

bE iN ThE kNOW… If you decide to drive yourself around in Tobago, here are a few important things to remember: Gas stations are concentrated around the Scarborough and Crown Point areas, so when driving up the coasts, make sure you top up your tank first. The Discover map shows where the major gas stations are Tobago is mountainous, so if you plan to drive into the mountains or off-road, consider a 4WD vehicle Take extreme care while driving at night outside of the southwest, as street lighting is not always installed A young boy fishing at Mt Irvine beach (Mark Meredith) 55

diviNg – and what else? Tobago is a world-class diving location, but aficionados of other sports and activities will find lots do as well. 56 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

crickeT of the island. Most hotels can organise trips, and Scarborough’s Shaw Park is the premier cricket there is an office at Canoe Bay. Trinidad & Tobago location, hosting regional first-class fixtures as well as Equestrian Association: www.ttea.4t.com top local league games. Impromptu games are played anywhere. Trinidad & Tobago Cricket Board: www. MounTain biking ttcricketboard.com, 636-1577 Tobago provides some great terrain for mountain bikers of all levels, from breathtaking downhills to cycling easy-coast cruises. Explore coastal tracks, rainforest There are two annual international cycling events in rides through the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, isolated Tobago to which international competitors are drawn: beaches and remote villages, some inaccessible West Indies vs Rest of the World, and the Tobago by car. Note that muddy trails can be hazardous in Cycling Classic. Parts of the Beacon Cycling Series the wet season. NB: No map of the trails has been take place in Tobago, and the Rainbow Triathlon Club produced, so ride with a guide if you want to find the arranges several events. Tobago Cycling: 639-5053 best (and safest) routes. Cost: US$40–50 for rides up to four hours. Diving Tobago is a prime Caribbean dive location, with over 60 established dive sites (mainly around the northern tip) offering everything from shallow reef dives to deep diving, wreck diving and drift diving. Observe turtles, sharks, moray eels, barracuda, tarpon, parrotfish, rays (sting, eagle and manta), huge corals (big brain), sponges and sea fans. Most operators offer introductory courses. There is a recompression chamber at Roxborough Medical Facility, 20 minutes’ drive from Speyside. Our advice: dive only with a PADI-registered operator. Association of Tobago Dive Operators: www. tobagoscubadiving.com. Cost around $100–125 for a morning trip fooTball Tobago United play T&T Pro League matches at the Dwight Yorke Stadium in Bacolet; ad hoc matches are staged on beaches and parks everywhere. Trinidad & Tobago Football Federation (TTFF): 623- 7312, www.ttffonline.com; T&T Pro League: 645- 4489, www.ttproleague.com golf Tobago is served by two fine 18-hole golf courses at Mount Irvine Hotel and Tobago Plantations. Costs approximately US$40–$100. Trinidad & Tobago Golf Association: 629-7127, www. trinidadandtobagogolfassociation.com gyMs & fiTness Head for one of the larger hotels – most have well- equipped gyms Horse riDing You can enjoy horseback riding on some beaches, including Stonehaven, Grand Courland and Canoe Bays. There are woodland trails in the lower half Right Kitesurfing in Tobago (Stephen Broadbridge) Opposite page A catamaran moored off Coco Reef, Store Bay, Tobago (Giancarlo Lalsingh) 57

sailing dorado, and May–September surfing The dry season (December–May) for barracuda, kingfish, bonito, The season lasts November–March, is the best time for sailing. Most and snapper. There are two but surfers always keep a keen of the north coast bays offer major tournaments: the Tobago eye on the sea during hurricane good daytime anchorage, but International Game Fishing season. Mt Irvine and Bacolet are only professional captains should Tournament at Charlotteville major surfing spots, with board attempt the windward side. The (www.tgft.com) and the Trinidad rentals and lessons available. Tobago Carnival Regatta (formerly & Tobago Game Fishing Surfing Association Trinidad & Sail Week) is a popular annual Association Tournament at Tobago: www.surfingtt.org event, not only for sailing but for Speyside (www.ttgfa.com, 624- partying, and provides racing for 5304). There have been record Tennis varying levels. Trinidad & Tobago catches in the last two years, Several hotels have their own Sailing Association: 634-4210, with a junior world record 400kg tennis facilities and will provide www.ttsailing.org (890lb) blue marlin caught in racquets and balls. There are the 2008 TTGFA tournament. public courts at Store Bay. Tobago sporT fisHing Conservation is important, so Tennis Association: 769-0218 The key offshore seasons competitions and charters use are October–April for marlin, the tag-and-release system. TriaTHlons sailfish, wahoo, tuna and Cost: US$500 for 8-hr trip Competitions and training events, such as May’s Rainbow Cup International Triathlon at Grafton oTHer sporTs conTacTs Beach, are held throughout the • Athletics: Tobago Athletic Committee, 660-7655 year. Rainbow Warriors Triathlon • Basketball: Tobago Basketball Zonal Commission, 620-8487 Club: www.rainbowtri.com, • Hockey: Trinidad & Tobago Hockey Board, www.tthb.tstt.net.tt 632-9004; Cyclones Triathlon • Rugby: Tobago Rugby Football Club, 639-5374 Academy: 301-1888/637-9860 • Table tennis: Tobago Table Tennis Association, 750-4608 • Power boating: Trinidad & Tobago Powerboat Association, www.ttpba.com waTersporTs • Volleyball: Tobago Volleyball Association, 660-7063 Equipment rental and lessons • Sporting Company of Trinidad & Tobago: 636-1401, www.sportt-tt.com in all manner of watersports – • Trinidad & Tobago Olympic Committee: 625-1285, www.ttoc.org kitesurfing, jetskiing, parasailing, surfing, kayaking, waterskiing and more – are readily available at beaches around the island, particularly in the Crown Point and Speyside areas yacHTing If you’re arriving in Tobago by yacht, check in with customs and immigration in Scarborough or Charlotteville, the two official ports of entry. There are no official anchorage sites, but Mt Irvine Bay, Grafton Beach, Store Bay and Englishman’s Bay are all popular locations. On the southeast coast, Anse Bateau is a good anchorage and fuelling point for much more, visit us online at www. discovertobago.com Above Tobago Plantations Golf Course in Lowlands (Mark Meredith) Opposite page Fort Granby, Tobago (Oswin Browne) 58 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com

A Tobago WEddiNg A real traditional Tobago wedding is a very special thing. The village of Moriah shows everyone how it’s done during the annual Tobago Heritage Festival. (Oswin Browne) But for those who would like Non-English documents must must be concluded by 6pm. to create their own tradition by be accompanied by English Tobago has several service marrying on this idyllic island, translations. The IRD is open providers who offer the requirements established by Monday–Friday, 8am–4pm. complete wedding packages. the Marriage Act of 1996 are The cashier closes for lunch Representatives work with straightforward and simple: 12–1pm and at 3pm for the day you to plan your dream wedding and honeymoon, • establish temporary residency • you will receive two marriage including locating the by scheduling wedding certificates that are accepted perfect venue and sourcing activities no less than three in most countries. It is everything from flowers to full days after arrival advisable to check your entertainment. Many hotels nation of origin for any and villas offer honeymoon • have a valid return ticket additional requirements packages complete with oceanside vistas for your • obtain a special marriage • those who wish to marry wedding. license (US$55) at the Inland under the age of 18 must Revenue Department (IRD) obtain the written consent of for more information, in Scarborough, with proof of their parent or guardian visit the Tobago identity (valid passport), and association of wedding evidence of your single status, • your wedding ceremony professionals: including any relevant divorce will require two witnesses 631-8586, www. decrees and death certificates. identified by passport, and tobagowedpros.com 59

TriNidad Young masquerader in golden glory around the Queen’s Park Savannah during the Junior Parade of the Bands (Mariamma Kambon) 61

WhErE Where to Start • Abercromby Inn (Port of Spain): 623-5259, www.abercrombyinn.com TO STay • The Allamanda (Woodbrook): 622-1480 • Alicia’s House (St Ann’s): 623- 2802, www.aliciashouse.com • Cascadia Hotel & Conference Trinidad’s room stock has been growing Centre (St Ann’s): 623-3511, www.cascadiahotel.com in both range and quality in recent years, • Carlton Savannah slowed only by the global economic (Cascade): 621-5000, www.thecarltonsavannah.com downturn. Most accommodation – hotels, • Hyatt Regency Trinidad guesthouses, international chains – are (Port of Spain): 623-2222, www.trinidad.hyatt.com centred in and around the capital and • Kapok Hotel (Maraval): 622-5765, San Fernando, with fewer properties in www.kapokhotel.com rural areas. • Monique’s Guesthouse (Maraval): 628-3334, www.moniquestrinidad.com HoTels Royal and Tradewinds hotels. • Mt Plaisir Estate Hotel Popular among business (Grande Rivière): 670-8381, travellers to Port of Spain are guesTHouses www.mtplaisir.com the new Hyatt Regency on the For tighter budgets, guesthouses • Par-May-Las (Newtown): 628- waterfront; the newly refurbished near the capital include the 2008, Hilton Trinidad in St Ann’s (US Allamanda (Woodbrook), Par- www.parmaylas.com President Obama recently May-La’s (Newtown), Monique’s • Royal Hotel (San Fernando): stayed in the presidential suite); (Maraval), Alicia’s House (St 652-4881, www.royalhoteltt. and the Courtyard by Marriott Ann’s), and the Abercromby Inn, com on Invader’s Bay. All have near the heart of Port of Spain. • Tradewinds Hotel impressive conference facilities If you have a quiet escape (San Fernando): 652-9463, and amenities, in line with the into nature in mind, Grande www.tradewindshotel.net island’s business tourism thrust. Rivière on the northeast coast • Tucker Real Estate Hotels in the Port of Spain is exquisite, with establishments (St James): 628-9307, suburbs include the Kapok like Mt Plaisir right on the www.tuckerrealestate.com (Maraval); the Cascadia Hotel beach. Here you have the & Conference Centre (St Ann’s); extraordinary opportunity to and the new Carlton Savannah witness endangered leatherback courTyarD (Cascade). In San Fernando, two turtles come ashore to nest by MarrioTT leading establishments are the (March–August). Invader’s Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain. T: 627-5555 W: www.marriott.com prices & availabiliTy Courtyard by Marriott is all Average room rates in 2006 and 2007 were US$125 for hotels and about Refreshing Business. $65 for guesthouses, with rooms usually available on short notice Our guest rooms and public outside the high season (December–May). Room rates and occupancy spaces are designed to are significantly higher during Carnival and other major events, so enable productivity and you’ll need to book well in advance to secure a spot. provide an area for relaxing solitude. 62 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

64 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

Email: info@aliciashouse.com website: www.aliciashouse.com 66 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

A crossover CulTurE Every culture is unique, but Trinidad is doubly special because of the number of cultural traditions that have been preserved and cross-pollinated by generations of migrants from all over the world, all in one small island. 70 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

Trini Artforms • Chutney: featuring East Indian instruments like the sitar and dholak drums, derived from Hindi folk songs; distinct from Hindi devotional bhajans or Phagwa chowtal songs • Limbo: sacred folk dance indigenous to Trinidad, once performed at wakes in African communities; the lower the dancer could go, the higher the spirit of the dead could ascend • Parang: Trinidad’s Christmas music, derived from Venezuelan carols; accompanied by cuatros, fiddles, box bass and maracas as paranderos (parang singers) call from house to house • Rapso: blend of African story-telling, calypso, and rap to deliver the “power of the word in the rhythm of the word” for more on carnival artforms, see the carnival section of this book Dance DraMa & THeaTre The local dance scene spans regional folk dance (the There is usually at least one play running on any most popular being the indigenous limbo, bongo, given weekend, and sometimes there’s a play at and belé), ballet, jazz, modern, Indian classical, and every major auditorium in the country. styles from around the world. Commercial offerings are primarily popular farces, Dance schools and semi-professional companies either local originals or adaptations of foreign plays. present high-quality shows year-round, while University departments and community organisations smaller troupes present experimental multi-media produce excerpts or full productions of popular productions. musicals (both local and foreign). There are also The Best Village competition keeps folk dance intimate dramas, solo shows, and experimental traditions alive in local communities, and groups like performances. the Northwest Laventille Cultural Movement and Shiv The island’s festivals produce both original and Shakti dance company often guest at shows across ritual drama. The annual Best Village competition is the country through the year, particularly around where many local actors and playwrights cut their cultural holidays. teeth. The Hindu religious drama of Ramleela is Above Tassa drums on the ground at Hosay celebrations in St Clair, Trinidad, January 2009 (Edison Boodoosingh) 71

performed in open-air sites each liTeraTure tradition of artists growing their year before Divali. The island has produced own “world music” from distinctly some stellar writers over the Trini roots: Ella Andall, Maximus filM generations. Among the best- Dan, Mungal Patasar, Orange Sky, Film is a growing industry here, known are Michael Anthony, Lloyd David Rudder, and 12theband. with several filmmakers of Best, CLR James, John La Rose, There are small but vibrant Trinbagonian heritage producing Earl Lovelace, Ian MacDonald, VS pockets of rock, pop, reggaeton, and showcasing their works Naipaul, Elizabeth Nunez, Sam R&B, jazz, and reggae musicians. internationally. The Trinidad & Selvon, Elizabeth Walcott-Hardy Choral groups, student groups, Tobago Film Festival is the place and former prime minister Eric and soloists keep classical to see the best in local and Williams. western and eastern traditions regional film. alive, presenting recitals and Music sometimes full-scale operas or fasHion & Jewellery For indigenous Trinidadian musical theatre productions, and The Trinidad & Tobago Fashion music, the best time of year is local music in non-traditional Week showcases some of the clearly Carnival, but increasingly settings. best local talent. it can be enjoyed year-round. Renowned local designers Competitions are a great place visual arTs include Heather Jones, Meiling, to hear established and budding The seven galleries of the Claudia Pegus, and Robert music talent. National Museum house some of Young; Chris Anderson and Beyond our local traditions, the country’s best artwork, and Gillian Bishop produce beautiful there is an increasingly diverse a number of other fine galleries handcrafted jewellery. music scene, with a strong showcase new work. There is 72 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

a significant art market, and a number of notable local artists: the late Michel-Jean Cazabon and Boscoe Holder, MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, sculptors Ralph and Vera Baney, Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward Bowen, Carlisle Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, Lisa O’Connor, Shalini Seereeram, Peter Sheppard, Irénée Shaw, Sundiata, and Noel Vaucrosson, to name but a few. for much more, visit us online at discovertrinidad.com Top Folk dancers performing at Best Village dance finals (Edison Boodoosingh) Below Chinese dancers at the folk dance finals of the Prime Minister’s Best Village trophy competition (Edison Boodoosingh) 73

The best bEaChES The beaches along Trinidad’s four distinct coastlines may not rival those in Tobago, but you’ll find everything you need for a great beach excursion. Here are some of the most popular spots. 74 Discover Trinidad2010 www.discovertobago.com Tobago 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

bE iN ThE kNOW… Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am–5pm or 10am–6pm where available, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas Permits are required both for camping and for turtle watching on the nation’s beaches. Contact a reputable tour guide, your hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arrangements Tropical sun can quickly give light skins a bad burn, even through cloud, so use your sunscreen However inviting they may look, it’s best to avoid the beaches in Chaguaramas, Galeota and the areas between Pt Lisas and Pt Fortin due to local industrialisation, which can contaminate otherwise pristine beaches North coast saline (“sally”) bay: protect small oceanic organisms clear water with good swimming. and are a local delicacy. Late Maracas: most popular Facilities available afternoon fishing ritual of “pulling beach in the north, with great seine” – bringing in the day’s food and facilities. A favourite for balanDra bay: good for catch in huge fishing nets. Rental camping at Easter time. Hotel swimming, and even bodysurfing accommodation available nearby at the rougher end South & Tyrico: if you like the idea of Maracas’ amenities but don’t salybia: popular for surfing (November–April), southwestern like crowds, this is a smaller, and for swimming (especially coasts quieter choice nearby June–September). Fringing reef off eastern end. New beach facilities quinaM: popular south las cuevas: good bathing coast beach. Calm waters, good with small caves at the far end of MaTura: Rough waters for swimming. Fine brown sand the beach. Facilities onsite make it inadvisable for swimming, disappears at high tide. A favourite but in March–August it is a popular for family outings on the weekend. blancHisseuse: popular and important leatherback turtle Facilities and hiking trails weekend getaway, with hiking nesting site trails to the nearby waterfall and coluMbus anD into the rainforest. Marianne River ceDros bays: both stunning flows into the bay, and is great for East coast in good weather. Cedros is the kayaking. Rental accommodation widest beach on the island at available Manzanilla: bordered low tide. Set in quiet fishing by distinctive coconut forest (“the villages with wonderful views of Cocal”). Facilities and lifeguards southwestern coast and, on clear Northeast coast available at northern end. Large days, neighbouring Venezuela estuary and lookout where Nariva granDe rivière: River meets the sea. Rental granville: getting there perfect for nature-lovers. Second accommodation available is half the adventure. Popular on largest leatherback turtle nesting weekends and for Ash Wednesday ground in the world (March– Mayaro: glorious stretch of Carnival cool-down parties August). Good for river bathing, beach, the longest on the island. kayaking, rainforest hikes. Popular for long weekends and for much more, visit us Accommodation and facilities on public holidays. Sands dotted with online at discovertrinidad. the beach distinctive “chip chip” shells, which com Above Saturday afternoon at Maracas Bay (Caroline Taylor) Opposite page Las Cuevas Beach (Aisha Provoteaux) 75

76 Discover Trinidad2010 www.discovertobago.com Tobago 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

All you need to know about CarNival Carnival in Trinidad & Tobago is the mother of West Indian-style carnivals everywhere else in the world. People let loose for weeks before the dancing and partying in the streets on Carnival Monday and Tuesday. You can get a taste of the experience in New York, Toronto, London and other Caribbean strongholds the world over, but you won’t know true Trini Carnival experience until you return to the source. carnival 101 The origins of Trinidad Carnival lie in a unique interaction between Africa and Europe. It dates back to the 1780s and the arrival of French Catholic planters who carried on the ritual of European carnival on Trinidad shores. They staged elaborate masquerade balls at Christmas and as a “farewell to the flesh” before the Catholic Lenten season. Their enslaved Africans had their own masking traditions, and held festivities around the burning and harvesting of the sugar cane (this was known as cannes bruleés, anglicised as Canboulay). For each group, masks and mimicry were an essential part of the ritual. After the emancipation of slaves in 1838, Canboulay became a symbol of freedom and defiance. In response, the British colonial government outlawed drumming, stickfighting, masquerading, African-derived religions, and even tries to Above Petrotrin Siparia Deltones playing “Am not drunk” at Panorama finals (Peter Sheppard) Opposite page Tribe masquerader Arveyann Thomas in her “Brazilian Macaw” costume during Trinidad Carnival 2009 celebrations in Port of Spain (Troy Marshall, www.troymarshall.net) 77

suppress the steelpan – but was as early as July, and soca artists and physiques for the wining never able to stamp out what has unveiling their big Carnival tunes season. become a hallmark of Trinidadian months before at carnivals in the This is also when the identity. diaspora, it seems that Carnival is competitions begin for ever-present. steelbands, calypsonians, De wining season Nevertheless, it’s after soca singers, limbo dancers, They call it the soca switch. It used Christmas that Carnival fêtes stickfighters, costume designers, to be from Boxing Day (the day featuring the biggest soca stars traditional Carnival characters, after Christmas) that radio stations begin in earnest. The radio and and Carnival Kings and Queens. across the islands would switch television airwaves are dominated These showcase the best from Christmas music (or whatever by the latest soca and pan tunes, practitioners of our Carnival arts. they were playing) to Carnival while would-be masqueraders music. But these days, with embark on gruelling fitness warM-up week Carnival band launchings starting regimens to build up their stamina The excitement builds the week 78 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

Carnival lingo Calypso: indigenous Trinidadian music with roots in West African songs of praise and mockery, strongly influenced by stickfighting chants (calinda) and lavways that the lead singers (chantouelles) sang for Carnival bands. Originally sung in patois (a local French derivative) Canboulay Riots: significant uprising in 1881 against the British governor who attempted to ban the Carnival arts Ole mas: the tradition of making and wearing original J’Ouvert costumes, resourcefully crafted from old clothes and other found materials, to satirically make a socio-political statement Playing mas: masquerading, usually in costume with a band (up to US$700 “all-inclusive”). Some bands sell out from September, but returns can be grabbed last minute. Of course, you can make your own costume (or band) – and don’t need a costume to band-hop Pretty mas: mass-produced costumes, usually skimpy bikinis, feathers, and beads Road March: song played most often by bands at judging points Soca: fast-paced, high-energy offspring of calypso, pioneered by Ras Shorty I (Garfield Blackman) in the 70s, fusing African and Indian sounds. Trinidad’s pop music, it has absorbed R&B, dancehall, hip- hop, reggaeton, house music and other influences Steelpan: developed in Laventille communities in the 1930s, the only non-electrical instrument invented in the 20th century. Began as single “ping pongs” hung around the neck playing just a few notes, now covering the full western scale in bands topping 100 players Traditional mas: characters like the ominous Midnight Robber, talkative Pierrot Granade, and gender-bending Dames Lorraines; best viewed at traditional character parades, Viey La Cou (two Sundays before Carnival) and on Carnival Friday in Port of Spain before Carnival, with wall-to-wall fêtes, events and competitions. Early on “Fantastic Friday” morning, stickfighters, moko children on Carnival Saturday of Carnival: the breathtaking jumbies and a cast of actors and for Kiddies Carnival at the costumes of would-be Kings and dancers descend on east Port of Savannah; some of the finest Queens of Carnival, and the race Spain to re-enact the Canboulay costume designs are seen for the Calypso Monarch crown. Riots. In the early afternoon, right there. Once night falls, traditional Carnival characters steelbands clash at Panorama, Taking iT To THe take the spotlight in Port of the greatest showcase for the sTreeTs Spain. And as 9pm hits, some of instrument anywhere in the Monday morning means J’Ouvert, the biggest soca stars begin to world. the element of Carnival that has vie for the Soca Monarch crowns. Sunday – Dimanche Gras – is most retained its subversive The streets belong to the reserved for two of the hallmarks roots. Before dawn, thousands of Opposite page Tamara Alleyne Gittens portrays “Fairy Dust” from the band Kaotic (Mark Lyndersay) 79

Joanne Rowley (Tigress) sings “Yuh Ent See Wajang Yet” on Dimanche Gras night (Mark Lyndersay) Opposite page A young reveller enjoys herself at the Junior Carnival King and Queen competition at the Jean Pierre Complex, Port of Spain (Mariamma Kambon) people chip and slither through most masqueraders are already down”, to rest aching bodies and the streets of the country’s up in search of their bands. cool stinging sun-burn…eager to cities, covered in paint, grease Spectators arrive early at judging do it all again! and mud, alongside traditional points to watch the bands pass, Carnival characters like jab jabs, and make their own assessments blue devils, bats, and those in as to who should win the coveted Schedules & outrageous “ole mas” costumes. Once the sun comes up on Band of the Year and Road March titles. Information Carnival Monday, most stagger Some don’t make it through National Carnival Bands into bed to sleep off the high the day, flaking out by early Association: 628-3143, www. (natural or induced). Around afternoon. Others go right ncbatt.com noon the action picks up again through till Last Lap, arriving National Carnival Commission: as thousands flock into Port of home in the wee hours of 627-1357, www.ncctt.org Spain and other cities to meet Wednesday morning. Pan Trinbago: 623-4486, www. their bands or just to soak up pantrinbago.co.tt the atmosphere. Others venture THe cool-Down Trinbago Unified Calypsonians up into the Northern Range to Neither Carnival Monday or Organisations: 623-9660, www. experience some of the most Tuesday are official holidays, tuco.co.tt authentic blue devil mas in the nor is Ash Wednesday. But that hills of Paramin (just remember doesn’t stop Trinis from flocking for much more, to “pay de devil”). to the island’s beaches or across visit us online at By 8am on Tuesday morning, to Tobago for a customary “cool- discovertrinidad.com 80 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

FiNE FOOd, FiNgEr FOOd (and everything in between) Trinidadians love their food, and it’s easy to understand why. Drawing on the culinary skills and traditions of all the many ethnic groups on this cosmopolitan island, Trinidad’s cuisine can’t help being distinct, tasty, and full of surprises. 82 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

Above Bouillabaisse soup with tomato, fine Dining and even at traffic lights, where carrot, leeks, pimentoes and mixed seafood The restaurant scene has been some vendors ply their trade at (Desiree McEachrane) blossoming in Trinidad in recent your car window. Opposite page Salt and pepper shakers and ciabatta bread at the Hyatt Regency, years. You can come across some Trinidad’s waterfront restaurant (Desiree magnificent establishments locaTion, locaTion, McEachrane) tucked away from the hustle and locaTion bustle of major towns, but Ariapita Sometimes it’s as much about Avenue in Woodbrook (a suburb the where as the what. In St of Port of Spain) is considered James, on the western edge of the island’s restaurant mecca. Port of Spain, nightfall brings out Delicious Asian, Creole, European, sidewalk vendors selling grilled Middle Eastern, Jamaican and fare, burgers, roti, corn soup, American food is conjured up souse and ital food. People trek here by superb qualified chefs. from all over the country to San Trendy combination Fernando to partake in Halal restaurant/sports bars are a meats barbequed over coals and fashionable choice for dining served with fries, salad and garlic and liming, especially when big rolls. In Debe village, just outside sporting events such as football San Fernando, people throng to and boxing are on. small wooden huts for sumptuous Indian delicacies. At Maracas finger fooD Beach, bake-and-shark is a must. Some of the best foods in Trinidad are bought from roadside vendors conDiMenTs and eaten with your hands. The secret is in the sauce. Trinis Doubles is perhaps the leading love to douse their food with roadside delight, a favourite of condiments such as pepper the breakfast and late evening sauce, ketchup, garlic sauce, crowds. Roasted corn, oysters, tamarind sauce, barbeque sauce, coconuts and souse can be chutney and pickled fruits and found around the Queen’s Park veggies. Wash it all down with Savannah at night. Local fruits, local juices, a cold local beer, once in season, can be bought at freshly brewed coffee, fruit supermarkets, on the sidewalks smoothies or some local rum. 83

Taste of and olive oil, often served with coconut bake soft dough wrapping (roti skin). Dhalpurie roti skin Trinidad… is filled with ground split • Callaloo: soup made from peas. Doughy buss-up-shut No lime, party or event in dasheen leaves, coconut (paratha) can replace roti Trinidad is complete without milk, ochroes, pumpkin, and skin and be served on the food. No river lime is complete sometimes salted meat or crab side without a good curry duck, no north coast beach lime without • Doubles: curried chickpeas • Sancoche: soup made from a bake-and-shark, no party between two discs of soft split peas, with dumplings, without a late-night corn soup fried bread carrots, potato, ground or chicken foot souse, and no provisions, meat, and Christmas lime without a tasty • Pastelle: seasoned meat, anything else that inspires pastelle. lentils or soya with olives, the cook capers and raisins in • Bake and shark: fried acornmeal casing and • Souse: pork boiled and bread – slightly crisp on steamed in banana leaves served cold in a salty sauce the outside, light on the with lime, cucumber, pepper inside – sandwiching thick • Pelau: one-pot dish of rice and onion slices slices of fried shark. It’s and pigeon peas with meat been described by the Travel • Sno-cone: shaved ice Channel’s Bizarre Foods’ • Pholourie: seasoned fritters drenched in syrups or kola Andrew Zimmerman as one made with flour and split and condensed milk (on of the best sandwiches he has peas, dressed with chutney request) ever eaten in his life! sauces • Sorrel: deep red drink made • Buljol: shredded saltfish • Roti: curried meat, shrimp from fruit of the same name, mixed with onions, tomatoes or vegetables folded into a popular at Christmas Above MovieTowne Woodford Café’s Christmas 2008 menu – ham and turkey platter, served with two mini pastelles and two sides (Desiree McEachrane) Opposite page Steamed red snapper served on a bed of plantain and topped off by tomato choka, prepared by chef Sabrina Rosales, former executive chef at Battimamzelle restaurant (Desiree McEachrane) 84 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

Veni Mangé is a creole restaurant in Woodbrook owned by sisters Roses Hezekiah and Allyson Hennessy (a cordon bleu chef). They share their thoughts on Trinidad cuisine and their favourite dishes. Q: How would you describe the cuisine of Q: What has been the secret to Veni Mangé’s Trinidad & Tobago? longevity? A: Very cosmopolitan, as we are influenced A: Consistency in quality and value for by African, Indian, Spanish, Chinese, money and insistence that everything is done Portuguese, French, British etc. with love and as near perfect as possible. As owners, we are always there to meet and greet Q: What are the main ingredients used in our the guests who feel at home when they return. local cuisine? The décor is warm and tropical, creating the A: Rice and dumplings are staples. Chicken is ambience of a typical Caribbean home. the most consumed meat, but the secret of our food is the combination of herbs and spices Q: Which of your dishes would you recommend used to season before cooking as well as the to a first-time visitor to T&T? addition of coconut milk and a little sugar. A: Callaloo soup and any of our creole dishes. We always say if you like beef eat beef, if you Q: What is creole food? like fish, eat fish, everything is Veni Mangé A: A creole is a Caribbean native descended food. from foreign lands … so the food would be an interpretation of their recipes. Our pelau Q: Which food should visitors never leave is a combination of pilaf and paella, our coo- these shores without tasting? coo is fu fu from Africa. A: A bowl of callaloo or stew from Veni Mangé, bake-and-shark, or our local roti. Q: What is the most popular dish at Veni Mangé? Q: What’s your local guilty pleasure when it A: Stewed oxtails with dumplings. This is a comes to food? casserole made with the oxtail well seasoned A: Roses is vegetarian (for which Veni Mangé with garlic, onions, chives, celery, chadon caters), and loves her fried tofu cutlets in beni and other spices, and served with Trini tamarind sauce and almost any tropical fruit. dumplings – which are not soft like ones Allyson’s is coo coo with callalloo and steamed from England, they are firm. red snapper in coconut sauce. 85

Where to start • Flambeaux (Port of Spain): 627-5555, www.marriott.com • Monet (St Ann’s): French cuisine with an infusion of • Adam’s Bagels (Maraval): • Hyatt Waterfront Restaurant Caribbean flavours. casual dining – salads, (Port of Spain): 623-2222, T: 625-4612, W: www. baked goods, light soups and www.trinidad.hyatt.com carltonsavannah.com sandwiches. T: 622-2435 • Ithaki Restaurant • Mt Plaisir Estate Restaurant • Angelo’s (Woodbrook): (St Ann’s): 623-3511, (Grande Rivière): 670-8381, restaurant offering authentic www.cascadiahotel.com www.mtplaisir.com Italian fine dining, from • J. Malone’s Irish Pub & • Roustica (Trincity Mall): casual Calabria-born owner and chef Restaurant (MovieTowne restaurant specialising in Angelo Cofone. T: 627-5551 & Trincity Mall): Irish-style wood-oven gourmet pizzas. T: • Driftwood Restaurant & Bar pub with food, drink and 640-5080 (San Fernando): 652-9463, entertainment to match. T: • Relish The Carlton Savannah. www.tradewindshotel.net 624-9828, 640-5080 Coblentz Avenue. T: 621-5000 86 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

Below Pan-seared salmon with sliced avocado, cucumber, radish, lettuce and red onion, topped with fried sweet potato, prepared by chef Sabrina Rosales, former executive chef at Battimamzelle restaurant Opposite page Cassava chips on a bed of banana leaves, prepared by chef Sabrina Rosales, former executive chef at Battimamzelle (Desiree McEachrane) E: FB@thecarltonsavannah.com international dishes. T: 624- the hook here. T: 222-2571 At RELISH all portions are bite 9983, W: www.sweetlime.co.tt • Veni Mange (Woodbrook): sized, perfect for sharing and • Subway (nationwide): serves delicious creole food; enjoying with everyone at your international chain serving featured by the New York table, in the style of communal healthy soups, salads, Times. T: 628-5254, W: www. dining – ideal for encouraging sandwiches and snacks. T: venimange.com conversation and togetherness. 662-5716, W: www.subway. • The Verandah (St Clair): serves • Snappers (Trincity Mall): com Caribbean food, known for its casual restaurant where • Tiki Village Restaurant and executive lunch menus. T: 622- seafood is the specialty. T: Bois Cano Bistro & Bar 6287 640-5080 (Maraval): 622-5765, www. • Zanzibar (MovieTowne): • Sweet Lime (Woodbrook & kapokhotel.com restaurant serving a wide variety La Romaine): open-air bar • Trader Jack’s Island Grill & of food, with vibrant decor and and restaurant, with local and Bar (MovieTowne): seafood is entertainment. T: 627-0752 87

ECO advENTurE Once, Trinidad (and Tobago) was joined to the South American mainland. The resulting blend of island and continental ecology makes Trinidad gives Trinidad an enormous biodiversity. It also allows visitors to explore a wide range of systems (mountain, forest, swamp, rivers, plains, coasts) within a small area. Down the Caroni River (Maria Huggins) 91

Natural Environment There are three mountain ranges in Trinidad: the Northern, Central and Southern Ranges. The Northern Range is the highest, with El Cerro del Aripo and El Tucuche reaching more than 900m (3,000ft). Cloaked in tropical rainforest, they watch over the island’s varied landscape of coastline, caves, gorges, mangrove swamp, rivers, lagoons and waterfalls. Trinidad’s waters are fed year-round by the Orinoco and other South American rivers. Its two main inland bodies of water are the Caroni and Nariva Swamps, both Ramsar Sites (protected wetlands of international importance). Caroni is particularly known for its roosting scarlet ibis, while Nariva is the home of the elusive West Indian manatee. There are coral reefs off Toco. • 92 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

Eco adventures Here are some of our favourites among Trinidad’s countless eco adventure opportunities: asa wrigHT naTure cenTre: nestled in the hills above Arima, this 193-acre eco centre is renowned for its bird watching opportunities. Originally a cocoa and coffee plantation, it was bought by the English Dr Newcome Wright and his Icelandic wife Asa in 1947. Two years later, the New York Zoological Society established a research station to investigate its tremendous biodiversity. After Newcome’s death, Mrs Wright sold the land on condition that it remained a conservation area; a non-profit trust was set up in a birdWaTChEr’S paradiSE 1967. There are guided tours, nature trails, bird watching, a Birdwatchers are richly rewarded on a trip to Trinidad (and Tobago). plunge pool, restaurant, gift shop Here’s some of what to look out for: and more onsite. Reservations recommended: 667-4655, www. Plains & gardens: Coastlines: brown pelican, asawright.org hummingbirds, yellow orioles, boobies, frigate birds kiskadees, flycatchers, tanagers, caroni swaMp & birD bananaquits, honeycreepers, Wetlands: scarlet ibis, heron, sancTuary: an extensive parrots osprey, bittern, crake, coot area of protected swamp and marshland, home to many species Mountains: Forests: toucan, trogon, oilbird of flora and fauna. The highlight kites, hawks, harriers, corbeaux (caves), bellbird, manakin, is witnessing flocks of rare scarlet (vultures), falcons woodpeckers, kingfishers, ibis fly home to roost each parrots, macaws evening. Boat tours leave daily around 4pm cHaguaraMas: this Flora & Fauna national heritage park west of Port Vegetation ranges from littoral woodland behind the beaches to of Spain is mostly undeveloped, montane rainforest and elfin woodland high in the mountains. Within and is popular for hiking, cycling, these habitats are: kayaking, and golf. Two highlights • 2,500 flowering shrubs, including 700 orchids are the 76m (250ft) Edith Falls, • 370 species of trees and Morne Catherine, the highest • 300 species of ferns peak in the area. Offshore, the • 620 butterfly species 30m (90ft) deep limestone • 430 bird species Gasparee Caves are breathtakingly • 108 recorded mammal species (57 of them bats) beautiful. If you don’t want • 70 species of reptile (some, like leatherback turtles, are protected) anything too strenuous, try a • 30 amphibian species picnic in Tucker Valley’s Samaan • countless insect species Park. Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA): 634-4227, www. Above A scarlet ibis, Trinidad’s national bird, at the Emperor Valley Zoo (Giancarlo Lalsingh) chagdev.com Opposite page Turure Falls, Cumaca (Edison Boodoosingh) 93

The strange mud volcanoes of Moruga Bouffe in south Trinidad (Mark Meredith) MuD volcanos: These 1–2m “volcanos”, cousins of the sulphur spring, abound in south Trinidad. Devil’s Woodyard near Indian Walk is the most accessible, while those at Piparo are the most active nariva swaMp: you’ll need a guide to kayak through this protected swamp for a glimpse of manatees in their natural habitat, and spot anacondas, caimans, and blue-and-yellow macaws norTHern range Treks: there are several adventures to be had here, most requiring a good guide. In the Heights of Guanapo, the Guanapo Gorge, and La Laja and Sombasson waterfalls are the main attraction. Large colonies of bats and oilbirds inhabit the Aripo Caves. The climb to El Tucuche provides a challenge even to seasoned hikers. Nearby, the Maracas Waterfall is a popular excursion piTcH lake: covering about half a square kilometre and producing some of the world’s finest asphalt (mined and exported since 1859), this is one of only three such lakes in the world. Guided tours are available, and there’s a museum onsite. La Brea Pitch Lake Tour Guides Association: 651-1232 TaMana caves: offering some of the best views of the Central Plains, Mt Tamana’s caves are home to over a million bats, which pour out each 94 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

bE iN ThE kNOW… Permits are needed for some locations and activities (like camping and turtle-watching) but any reputable guide or tour operator will arrange these Don’t attempt a long hike or difficult trail without a reputable, certified guide: it’s easy to get lost or have an accident Snake bites and scorpion stings are rare; the biggest natural danger is the Portuguese Man-o’- War which infests coastal waters (vinegar is good if you get stung), and the sap and fruit of the manchineel tree (most common on beaches). Seek local advice on whether these are present Wear long trousers for lengthy bush treks, and never wear open-toed sandals. Comfortable shoes with good grip are recommended evening in a spectacular display Take a little knapsack with a change of clothes, socks and something to eat, stored in a waterproof THree pools: an easy hike up the Marianne bag. If your carry a camera that’s not waterproof, River brings you to three freshwater bathing pools with you’ll want to keep it here too a natural water slide Avoid wearing black: it attracts mosquitoes, and if TurTle waTcHing: Trinidad’s Grande you’re in the open, soaks up the heat Rivière, on the north coast, is the second largest leatherback turtle nesting ground in the world. During Only hire Trinidad & Tobago Incoming Tour nesting months (March–August), huge endangered Operators’ Association (TTITOA) registered guides. leatherback turtles return to the beaches on which They are professionally trained and have public they were born to lay their eggs, which hatch two liability insurance months later. During peak season, hundreds of turtles come ashore here and at northeastern beaches like When turtle watching, do not use flash Matura. It is an astounding and humbling experience, photography, touch or otherwise disturb nesting but do take care not to disturb the turtles when turtles, as this can cause them severe distress nesting. Permit/guide required. Nature Seekers (Matura): 668-7337, www.natureseekers.org; Grande Keep Trinidad clean: don’t discard your rubbish Rivière Tourism Development Organisation: 469-1288 in waterways and in the outdoors. This can cause flooding and environmental pollution wilD fowl TrusT: a must-see. Housed on oil refinery lands, this non-profit Trust covers 25 hectares and is a sanctuary for endangered birds (including the scarlet ibis). You can view Where to start free-roaming wildlife and enclosed animals, some of which are bred for reintroduction to the • Caribbean Discovery Tours: 624-7281, www. wild. There are two lakes, a learning centre, and caribbeandiscoverytours.com accommodation on site. Reservations required: • Trinidad & Tobago Sightseeing Tours: 628-1051, 628-4145, www.triniwetlands.org www.trintours.com 95

The regional buSiNESS CENTrE Trinidad is the business capital of the region, owing to its natural hydrocarbon reserves. With those reserves quickly being consumed, this “Caribbean Tiger” has moved to diversify its economy – and to establish itself formally as an International Financial Centre. 96 Discover Trinidad2010 www.discovertobago.com Tobago 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

conference cenTre Trinidad is also aiming to be the leading meetings and conferences capital of the Caribbean, and last year hosted two mega-events: the Fifth Summit of the Americas and the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting. According to Prime Minister Patrick Manning, the hosting of these two events (held at the Hyatt Regency on the newly constructed waterfront) will position Trinidad & Tobago for significant benefits, including increased investment flows in all areas of the economy – energy, tourism, manufacturing, agribusiness, entertainment, services, and particularly international conferencing and finance. weaTHering THe sTorM The Central Bank expected GDP growth in 2009 to be 0–1%, down from the 3.5% of 2008. The robust energy sector was an early casualty of the global downturn, followed by shrinkages in the manufacturing sector and the government’s budget cuts across the board. Rising unemployment, and a slow-down in real estate and construction provided a sharp contrast to the situation a year ago when all sectors were booming. Although analysts predicted that Trinidad & Tobago would weather the adverse economic climate better than other Caribbean countries, there have (Photo by Martin Farinha) been challenges. Some energy Opposite page The stock exchange board at Nicholas Towers, investment was lost in 2009 downtown Port of Spain (Edison Boodoosingh) due to the economic downturn. With the recession in the US Trinidad has been seeking new financial subsidiaries of CL (Trinidad’s main natural gas LNG markets in Europe, Latin Financial, a conglomerate with client) reducing demand for America and the Caribbean. interests in media, energy, spirits, LNG, coupled with competition The government has also had banking, insurance and real from bigger, lower-cost suppliers, to bail out three heavily indebted estate around the Caribbean. 97

Where to start • American Chamber of Commerce: 622-0340, www.amchamtt.com • Central Bank of Trinidad & Tobago: 625-4835, www.central-bank.org.tt • Invest Trinidad & Tobago (eTecK): 638-0038, www.investtnt.com • South Trinidad Chamber of Industry & Commerce: 652-5613, www.southchamber.org • Trinidad & Tobago Chamber of Industry & Commerce: 637-6966, www.chamber.org.tt • Trinidad & Tobago Entertainment Company: 624-0514, www.ttentonline.com • Trinidad & Tobago Film Company: 625-FILM (3456), www.trinidadandtobagofilm.com • Trinidad & Tobago Manufacturers’ Association: 675-TTMA, www.ttma.com • Trinidad & Tobago Stock Exchange: www.stockex.co.tt looking aHeaD of communities in enhancing One encouraging sign was that Despite the economic challenges, Trinidad’s tourism product. In headline inflation – which had Trinidad remains the business 2009, the government also passed 15% in 2008 – fell to leader in the region, and has announced a stimulus package to below 6% in August 2009. Food assumed the role of the regional upgrade the islands’ room stock. price inflation also declined. godfather. In 2009, the Prime Minster, Patrick Manning, announced a stimulus package to help some beleaguered CARICOM countries bMobile weather the economic storm. Look out for a full-service At home, large-scale projects bmobile outlet coming continue with (controversial) soon to One Woodbrook plans for an aluminium smelter in Place. Be sure to look out La Brea and infrastructure for a for our new BlackBerry rapid rail system. handsets and other Efforts are being made to handset specials. See you boost the tourism sector as part soon! of the economic diversification programme. Public consultations were held early in 2009 on a draft national tourism policy Opposite Fireworks light up the sky above the Queen’s Park Savannah to mark the anniversary of that, in part, emphasises the role the nation’s Independence in 1962 (Mariamma Kambon) 98 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

A flow of FESTivalS This festival island constantly celebrates life, creativity, and diversity – Archbishop Desmond Tutu called T&T a “rainbow nation”. Here are some of the most distinctive events. 99

Hosay This originally Islamic festival commemorates the martyrdom of Hussain, the Prophet Muhammad’s grandson, and later murder of his brother Hassan. The lively three-day procession sees tadjahs (fanciful replicas of the tomb) carried through the streets to tassa drumming; they are eventually cast into the sea. Popular venues for watching and joining Hosay activities are St James, Curepe, Tunapuna, Couva, and Cedros. Dates vary each year according to the moon. 100 Discover Trinidad2010 www.discovertobago.com Tobago 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

carnival Year. A major hallmark of the forbade participation in this Undoubtedly the island’s largest festival is the vegetable dye abir, African-influenced religion. and most famous festival, a fuschia liquid that Phagwa (or showcasing some of the nation’s Holi) participants spray over one la Divina pasTora most distinctive artforms: another as part of the revelry. A Catholic devotion with origins calypso, soca, steelband, limbo Celebrations also include chowtal in Spain, this local tribute to the and others. For the full low-down, singing and dancing competitions. Divine Shepherdess includes see the Carnival section in this Hindus, who refer to the Black book. spiriTual (sHouTer) Virgin statue as Siparee Kay Mai. bapTisT liberaTion Day Held annually on the second pHagwa (Holi) Celebrated on March 30, this day Sunday after Easter, the festival Each March the Hindu community commemorates the abolition of is one of the main events in the recognises the beginning of the the British-instituted Shouters southern town of Siparia. Indian spring and the Hindu New Prohibition Ordinance, which TasTe T&T A showcase of the island’s finest foods and chefs. The accompanying Restaurant Week is a great opportunity to enjoy discounts and specials at some of the island’s best restaurants. inDian arrival Day Celebrated on May 30 in commemoration of the arrival of the first indentured labourers from India in 1845, with historical re-enactments, cultural shows, fashion shows, craft and clothing markets, and more. The Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas is a focal point. webeaT fesTival An annual festival each June centred around the Western Main Road in St James, featuring vintage kaiso (calypso), talent shows, a pan explosion and a steelband parade to end the festival. eMancipaTion Day Celebrated on August 1 to commemorate the emancipation of African slaves in 1838. It’s marked with street processions (including towering moko jumbies), church services, cultural shows, and an Emancipation Village in Port of Spain offering craft and clothing, plus shows featuring local and international acts. Above A former Miss T&T, Anya Ayoung-Chee, graces the Fashion Week runway in a piece from Meiling’s “House of Jaipur” collection (Mariamma Kambon) Opposite page The Hosay festival produces magnificent tadjahs which are carried through the streets (Edison Boodoosingh) 101

besT village republic Day The Best Village competition keeps folk traditions Commemorates the nation’s status as a republic alive in local communities, and is where some of within the Commonwealth, achieved on September the nation’s finest performing arts professionals 24, 1976. Events include the Hyundai Open Water make their start. It culminates in October/ Classic at Maracas Bay and the Republic Day Cycling November, and encompasses all indigenous local Challenge and 5K Fun Run. culture – dance, drama, folklore, food and farming products, sports, and the selection of a Best Village aMerinDian Queen, La Reine Rivé. HeriTage Day Descendants from around the region gather for a sanTa rosa fesTival smoke ceremony and street procession in Arima on Celebrated in late August, the festival honours October 14 to honour the heritage of Caribs, Awaraks the patron saint of the local Carib community. and other Amerindian groups. Commemorations include sharing traditional Amerindian foods, church services, and a street Divali procession with the Santa Rosa statue, led by the Celebrated in October or November according to Carib Queen. the moon, this Hindu festival of lights honours Mother Lakshmi (goddess of light, beauty, riches inDepenDence Day and love) and celebrates the return of Lord Rama The commemoration of the islands’ independence from exile: thousands of flickering deyas light his way. from Britain in 1962 with parades, fireworks and Epic theatrical re-enactments of Hindu scriptures big concerts (sometimes featuring international (Ramleela) take place just before. acts), plus the Independence Day Cycling Classic. eiD-ul-fiTr panyarD sensaTions Eid marks the end of Ramadan (the ninth month of An annual series each September in panyards the Muslim year), during which fasting is practised across the island showcasing the national from sunrise to sunset. The day begins in the mosque instrument, the steelpan, as well its top bands and and continues with alms-giving, hospitality and shared practitioners. meals with family, friends and neighbours of all backgrounds. The date of this festival varies, since it TriniDaD & Tobago filM fesTival depends on the sighting of the new moon. The September festival started in 2006 and is now the second largest of its kind in the region. for a full listing of annual events and Each September it showcases a range of dramatic, public holidays, visit the calendar documentary, short, and animated films from section of this book. or about the Caribbean and Latin America, and Above Emancipation Day celebrations (Edison Boodoosingh) hosts a number of workshops and educational Opposite page Machel Montano performs at the Alternative Concept programmes. W: www.trinidadandtobagofilmfestival.com 7 (Keown Thomas) 102 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

When night falls ... As Trinidad’s cosmopolitan population has grown more affluent, nightlife and entertainment choices have grown to meet the growing demand. There’s no shortage of possibilities – find your niche and dive in! 103

When the market for the party or concert is too large for even the biggest clubs, mega-concerts move to huge arenas like the Queen’s Park Oval, the Centre of Excellence, the Jean Pierre Complex, the National Stadium or the Queen’s Park Savannah. They often offer general and VIP (or VVIP!) tickets, with the pricier passes providing you with all- arTs & culTure hangouts in all the major towns inclusive food and drink. These For those into the arts: there like St Augustine, Trincity, Arima, big party and concert events are are nearly always music, theatre Chaguanas and San Fernando. concentrated around Carnival or dance productions under Hotels have modern and well- time, public holidays, and school way, at several venues. See our equipped bars and lounges, vacations. Arts & Culture section for more often with great ambiance. information. filMs bars & lounges You can catch the most recent Where to start You’d be hard pressed to find movies at several cinemas, any corner of Trinidad without at including two multiplexes at • Bois Cano Bistro & Bar least a basic roadside bar where MovieTowne in Port of Spain and (Maraval): 622-5765, you can perhaps shoot pool and Caribbean Cinemas 8 in Trincity. www.kapokhotel.com sing karaoke while downing a Classic and independent films • Carlton Savannah six-pack. are also screened by the Studio (Cascade): 621-5000, www. You’ll find loads of these in St Film Club, UWI Campus Film thecarltonsavannah.com James along the Western Main Classics, and at film festivals • Driftwood Restaurant & Bar Road, and its signature bar – (including the Trinidad & Tobago (San Fernando): 652-9463, Smokey & Bunty’s – is often and European Film Festivals). www.tradewindshotel.net patronised by characters who are • Hilton Trinidad (St Ann’s): an evening’s entertainment all by parTy TiMe 624-4485, www. themselves, particularly around Trinidadians love to party, and hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidad Carnival time. like to do it in very fine style. And • Hilton Lobby Bar Beyond the basics, there are once they’ve started, they don’t (St Ann’s): 624-4485, www. upscale bars and lounges with like to stop. This party market hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidad swanky interiors, good food has fuelled the growth of mega- • Hyatt Lobby Lounge (whether you’re looking just for clubs whose various levels and (Port of Spain): 623-2222, finger food or a good meal) and special VIP areas are packed out www.trinidad.hyatt.com scintillating signature drinks. all weekend. The more exclusive • J. Malone’s Irish Pub & Some feature big-screen TVs ones maintain strict dress codes, Restaurant (MovieTowne & showing popular sports games; operate with invitation lists, and Trincity Mall) karaoke nights; games areas with usually require ID for entry. But • Skyview Lounge (St Ann’s): pool tables and dart boards; and no matter where you are in the 623-3511, www.cascadiahotel. special themed nights featuring country, there is a nightclub you com performances from contemporary can find to dance the night away. • Sweet Lime (Woodbrook): rock, reggae, soca, jazz, world It’s not only about partying, 624-9983, www.sweetlime.com. and fusion bands. though. Some of the biggest tt Around Port of Spain, Ariapita nightclubs have evolved into • Trader Jack’s Island Grill & Bar Avenue – sometimes just called spaces that present concerts (MovieTowne): 222-2571 “The Avenue” – is a microcosm with local music stars and big- • Zanzibar (MovieTowne): of the bar and lounge experience name international pop, R&B, 627-0752 in Trinidad, but there are popular and house music acts. Above Coco Lounge (Aisha Provoteaux) Opposite page The Falls at West Mall, a premier shopping mall (Aisha Provoteaux) 104 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

What to buy, WhErE TO buy iT Trinidad continues to be a major shopping centre in the Caribbean, attracting shoppers from all over the region and neighbouring Latin American countries. 105

Regional shopping centre Trinidad’s appeal as a shopping mecca lies in the mix of local fare, ranging from jewellery to music; high-end branded goods; and cheap imported items from Venezuela, China, India, Brazil and the United States, among others. Shopping options are pretty extensive, with bargain shopping in downtown Port of Spain, San Fernando, Chaguanas, Arima, Tunapuna and main streets in other districts. Malls offer merchandise priced for any pocket, with the added convenience of air-conditioning, secure parking, food courts, recreation for children, and in some cases Sunday opening hours (a rarity in the Caribbean). Consumers can also shop now from the comfort of their homes (Photo by Aisha Provoteaux) 106 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

by calling in to buy items from will also find local gospel, rock, steelpans, Carnival dolls and local as-seen-on-TV shopping reggae, R&B, pop, jazz (including other T&T paraphernalia programmes. And a growing pan jazz), alternative and fusion number of entrepreneurs have set books & up shop on the internet to sell Jewellery: Trinidad’s Magazines: in addition to shoes, clothing, music, lingerie and jewellers create unique pieces international bestsellers, you can other items. from silver, gold, copper, leather, find a range of books by local beads and semi-precious writers, covering natural history, Best Buys stones. Some will take orders for biography, art, fiction, poetry and custom-made accessories more at local book shops. There cloTHing: casual or formal, has been a boom in magazine petite or plus size, branded or crafT: handmade leather publishing, particularly lifestyle generic, local or foreign – you goods such as sandals, belts, titles can be sure to find something and other accessories (some tailored to your needs. Leading made from wood and seeds) can fooD & beverages: local designers produce striking be found at shops in the malls Trinidad is known for its mouth- creations running the gamut from as well as from roadside and watering cuisine. Popular buys for casual to couture. Many outlets beach vendors those travelling back home include also sell traditional Indian, African roti skins, pastelles, fruit cakes, and other ethnic wear, and a range souvenirs: no trip biscuits and crackers, pepper of high-quality fabrics is complete without a T-shirt sauce, seasonings and curry featuring local sayings and powders, and even frozen fried Music: soca, calypso bawdy humour. Plenty of shops chicken. Trinidad’s rums, beers and and steelpan albums are good sell these, as well as cups, homemade wines are among the buys, widely available, and you mugs, key-rings, hand-crafted most popular (and weighty) items 107

Where to start B&Tees Native Spirit: Native Spirit is a unique brand of “original art to wear” producing original, locally-made Trini, Caribbean and tropical designs printed and embroidered on T-shirts, polos, ladies’ tops, dresses, bags and headwear. Their products are also available online. Long Circular Mall, St James; 622-7969, www.nativespirittees.com Excellent City Centre: located in downtown Port of Spain, Excellent City Centre provides a shopping experience unrivalled in the capital. Capturing the essence of modern architecture and history in its structure, Excellent City Centre is the largest department store in Trinidad, housing over 60 shops selling clothing, shoes, souvenirs, music, baked goods, 108 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

communication equipment, accessories, and perfumes won international acclaim: Gold and Wood, Kata, among other items. You can taste the flavours of the Judith Lieber, Kazuo Kawasaki, and Stefan Preutz. island at the expansive food court where anything from The Falls at West Mall, Level 3 (western entrance), 632- Indian delicacies to natural juices can be bought. 3 5492/1387 Frederick Street, Port of Spain, 623-6464 Just CDs: if you are looking for a wide range of Ferreira Optical Boutique: Optique gives local and international music, then this is the place Trinidadians a new look on life, redefining eyewear to go. Pop, R&B, jazz, soca, calypso, even classical while pushing the boundaries of design in frames music can be found here, as well as popular movie and sunglasses. Inspiration for this line of designs DVDs. You can also find accessories for your home comes from the natural world of insects and entertainment needs such as CD and DVD towers, flowers, the sleek urban landscape, or the detail player cleaners and cases. Long Circular Mall, St James, and sophistication of haute couture. The materials 622-7516; MovieTowne Mall, Port of Spain, 625-3472 used to construct this custom eyewear is also innovative – exotic woods, buffalo horn, gold and Sapodilla Gift Shop: Sapodilla offers a unique silver, dotted with diamonds and sapphires, and a selection of local craft, including a wide range of selection of accessories in semi-precious stones to batik, ceramics, local jewellery, T-shirts and souvenir match. Not surprisingly, some of the models have items.. Level 2, Trincity Mall, Trincity, 640-8634 Left Design by Peter Elias at T&T Fashion Week 2009 (Edison Boodoosingh) SpOTlighT ON FaShiON In its two years of existence, Fashion Week Trinidad & Tobago (FWTT) has become a standing-room-only event. Showcasing the creativity of the local industry, FWTT is the only local forum for designers, upcoming and established, to present their designs in a professional setting. In 2009, the event saw the return to the ramp of designers such as Sonia Mack and introduced soca star Machel Montano as a designer with his children’s line Boy Boy. Regional designers are also a part of FWTT, using the forum to boost their profile in the lucrative Trinidad market. Established in 2008, FWTT is a concept that has been decades in the making. Its establishment comes at a time when fashion as a local industry is beginning to gather momentum, with fashion degrees now being offered at the University of Trinidad & Tobago and the formation of the Fashion Association of Trinidad & Tobago to promote the industry. In its first year, the event was held under a tent at Adam Smith Square in Woodbrook in similar style to the prominent New York Fashion Week. In 2009, the event moved to the prestigious Hyatt Regency on the redeveloped waterfront. The week-long affair attracted Trinidad’s glitterati: beauty queens, sports personalities, soca stars and prominent members of the business community. 109

iSlaNd SighTS For a single island, Trinidad is incredibly diverse, her human and physical landscapes varying vastly from coast to coast. Starting early and limiting your stops, you could see the entire island in a day if you really wanted to, either on your own, or with guides like Caribbean Discovery Tours or T&T Sightseeing Tours. Here are our 20 favourite sites. Port of Spain & northwest location for the proposed international financial centre (IFC). Nearby are Nicholas Tower and the Twin queen’s park savannaH: Trinidad’s Towers, which house the Central Bank; and the Central or Hyde Park, this is the green heart of the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (where T&T’s city, and supposedly the largest roundabout in the many ethnicities are depicted in the stained glass). world. Popular with joggers and sports enthusiasts. Further north is Woodford Square, often transformed Coconuts, corn soup, pholourie and sno-cones are into a platform for political rallies, and bordered by sold along its perimeter. Off the northern end are the Red House, Hall of Justice, National Library (NALIS) and the Emperor Valley Zoo and Botanical Gardens, with an the Anglican Cathedral extraordinary collection of flora. Along the southern end, the new Academy for the Performing Arts looms. forT george: among cannons and a small Along its western side, see the Magnificent Seven, a museum, enjoy magnificent panoramic views of the series of beautiful colonial-era buildings (from south entire west coast from 335m (1,100ft) above Port to north): Queen’s Royal College; Hayes Court; Milles of Spain Fleurs; Roomor; Roman Catholic Archbishop’s House; Whitehall; and Killarney or Stollmeyer’s Castle. cHaguaraMas naTional HeriTage park: paradise for all nature-lovers and eco presiDenT’s anD priMe MinisTer’s adventurers! Hiking trails, historical exhibits and resiDences: adjacent to the Gardens is the landmarks, a golf course, restaurants, marinas, President’s House (1873). Next door is the new beaches, and breathtaking waterfalls. There are residence of the Prime Minister, which doubles as a great opportunities for land sports (cycling, hashing, diplomatic centre mountain biking and more) and watersports (kayaking, sailing, yachting, powerboating, and porT of spain: the Brian Lara Promenade dragon-boat racing). You can catch boats to the is the heart of Port of Spain and borders the new offshore islands to explore natural wonders like the waterfront, which includes the Hyatt Hotel and the Gasparee Caves and offshore reefs Left A sculpture on one side of the entrance doors to the Hanuman Temple (Camille King) 111

The north & northeast by the Compte de Lopinot, galera poinT: who fled Haiti after the 1791 This magnificent headland Maracas: perhaps revolution. Popular for sports, beyond the Toco Lighthouse Trinidad’s most famous beach, river bathing, cave exploration at the northeastern tip of the and the best place to eat (make sure to hire a guide), and island is where the navy blue a shark-n-bake! Amenities parang around Christmas time. Atlantic Ocean and electric blue available, and hiking trails lead But beware: the Compte is said Caribbean Sea meet into the Northern Range to appear at full moon, astride a white horse! Central Trinidad MounT sT beneDicT cHurcH & MonasTery: cleaver wooDs: caroni swaMp: perched 240m (800ft) up, the west of Arima, home to a small nesting site of the national bird, oldest Benedictine monastery Amerindian museum, with a the scarlet ibis. Boat trips depart (1912) in the Caribbean offers picnic area and nature trails 4pm through mangrove and astounding views of the Caroni marshland, where you can see a plains and beyond. Its 600 acres asa wrigHT naTure variety of birds, flora and fauna offer nature trails, an art gallery cenTre: formerly a cocoa and studio, gift shop, guesthouse and coffee plantation, its 193 HanuMan and café acres are now Trinidad’s most TeMple & DaTTaTreya renowned bird sanctuary and yoga cenTre: lopinoT: nestled in the eco centre. Guided tours, the distinctive 26m (85ft) statue Northern Range, a small museum nature trails, restaurant, of the Hindu god Hanuman is has been made of the estate accommodation, gift shop, the tallest of its kind outside of house, slave quarters and prison and freshwater pool all on site. India, and towers over the Yoga on the cocoa estate developed Reservations recommended Centre and mandir 112 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

bE iN ThE kNOW… If you decide to drive yourself around in Trinidad, here are a few important things to remember: A valid international permit, or one issued by the UK, US, Canada, or EU is required and valid for 90 days Driving is on the left! Gas (petrol) stations are concentrated around cities, towns and commuter routes, so when taking longer road trips into rural areas, make sure to fill your tank first Top Temple in the sea at sunset (Ife Smenkh-Ka-Ra) Below Cut-out parang players at the home of Trinidad’s traditional Christmas music in Lopinot (Mark Meredith) 113

waTerloo TeMple: its story is as magical www.triniwetlands.org as its views across the Gulf of Paria. Indian indentured labourer Siewdass Sadhu toiled for san fernanDo Hill: the city’s foremost decades to build a temple in the sea, as it was landmark – scarred by quarrying but since declared forbidden to build on colonial land. It is now a a national park – offers amazing vistas of the city, sacred spot for Hindu worship Gulf of Paria, Caroni Plains, and Northern Range, with picnic huts and a children’s play area poinT lisas: Trinidad’s major industrial complex sprawls along the west coast, and houses Devil’s wooDyarD MuD volcano: plants producing steel and petrochemicals. Guided much less terrifying than its name (given by tours available European settlers trying to explain the bubbling and rumbling), it is one of many mud volcanos in the la vega garDen cenTre: this estate in southland. Though usually harmless, large eruptions Gran Couva is home to a range of plants and trees, can occur. Playground and picnic tables onsite and is popular for picnics, kayaking, and other outdoor activities piTcH lake: One of the only lakes of its kind, producing natural asphalt that’s been mined since 1859. Guided tours available; museum on The southland site. La Brea Lake Tour Guides Association: 651- poinTe-à-pierre wilD fowl TrusT: 1232 a magnificent 25-hectare sanctuary and breeding centre for endangered waterfowl, with learning for much more, visit us online at centre and eco lodge. Reservations required. 628-4145, discovertrinidad.com 114 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

Above La Vega (Wheel Barrow Imaging 2009) 115 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com 115

116 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

(Photo from fotolia.com) SpECial TrEaTmENT In the last ten years, a spa culture has developed from the beauty industry, its many treatments offering some respite from daily stresses – or forming part of a relaxing vacation. Some are located in hotels, catering both to guests and the general population, while others are independently owned. 117

(Photo from fotolia.com) services Asian inspired, designed to induce whom they may have developed Spa treatments range from feelings of calm and relaxation. a relationship, or who have a massages (deep tissue, Swedish, Fountains, plush furniture and cosy reputation for doing the best work. aromatherapy, hot stones and colour schemes combine to make more) to steams, body scrubs, each spa a retreat from the bustle Time to indulge peels and wraps, and saunas of every day life. (which are growing in popularity). Naturally, the décor and degree The Face & Body Clinic: in the You can elect to have individual of luxury differ according to the spa business for 25 years and treatments, and many spas also target clientele, but service across with locations in San Fernando, offer package deals. the board is warm and welcoming. Port of Spain, Tobago, and If you have the time, you can In some spas, wine, tea or coffee Chaguanas. Offerings are based make a day of your spa outing by is served at no extra cost, as well on the products, treatments and adding beauty treatments such as light refreshments like cheese professional programmes of Spanish as manicures, pedicures, facials, and crackers. spa and body-care giant Germaine eyebrow tinting, and waxing Spa staff members are friendly de Capuccini. T: 653-8329, www. (including Brazilian waxing for and open to lively conversation, faceandbodyclinic.com women). but respectful of one’s need Sanctuary Day Spa: located in St for silence. When making Clair and the Hilton Trinidad. They aMbience appointments, clients can request use eastern methods and products The décor of local spas is often the services of particular staff with to promote peace, tranquillity, 118 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

bE iN ThE kNOW… Do make an appointment beforehand. Check availability if you need same-day service Do ask about cancellation policies. Some spas charge you for no-shows Do arrive at least 15 minutes before your appointment Do wear comfortable clothing that can be easily removed for body treatments. Some places may allow you to wear a swimsuit for your comfort, and most provide robes Do alert your therapist/beautician about any allergies or healthcare concerns you may have Do observe cell phone etiquette so as not to disturb other clients Tipping (at the client’s discretion) is encouraged and some spas allow you to tip the staff directly; others ask that you leave your tip at the front desk with the name of your attendant. wellbeing and good health. Among the many services are Reiki, Shiatsu, and Shirodhara, a form of Ayurvedic medicine. T: 628-8040 Donna’s Skincare Studio: client care is what sets this San Fernando spa apart. Clients are given complimentary feet and hand massages, free consultations and follow-up services. Clients are pre-booked for appointments, called for feedback following visits, and educated about their treatments. T: 652-1782 Santosha Spa and Wellness The Carlton Savannah,Cascade. T: 868-621-5000 E: santosha@thecarltonsavannah.com A soothing, peaceful haven designed and delivered with you in mind. A sensory bouquet of wellness and relaxing experiences that promises to soothe your senses and restore your balance. for much more, visit us online at discovertrinidad.com 119

playiNg hard Whether your game is motor racing, cycling, adventure racing, power boat racing, basketball, kayaking, or keeping in shape at the gym, you needn’t skip a beat: Trinidad has the facilities – and fellow enthusiasts – to keep you on the right track. Above Trinidad and Tobago’s star right-winger, Carlos Edwards, controls the ball during the 2010 World Cup qualifying match against Honduras at the Hasely Crawford National Stadium (Mariamma Kambon) 121

aTHleTics in 2001, and the national team – the Soca Warriors Trinidad’s athletic traditions lie largely in sprinting. –represented T&T as the smallest nation ever to There are 45 clubs nationwide, and competitive events qualify for the World Cup in 2006. T&T Pro League hosted throughout the year attracting the best in matches (April–December) are played at these and local, regional and international talent. National Athletics the Larry Gomes (Arima), Ato Boldon (Couva) and Association: 645-6976, www.naaatt.org Manny Ramjohn (Marabella) stadiums. Trinidad & Tobago Football Federation (TTFF): 623-7312, www.ttffonline. crickeT com; T&T Pro League: 645-4489, www.ttproleague.com A national passion. The Queen’s Park Oval in Port of Spain is one of the Caribbean’s most beautiful cricket golf grounds and the venue for local and international Trinidad has three 18-hole courses: Moka’s St Test, One-Day International, and Twenty/20 matches. Andrew’s Golf Club, Trincity’s Millennium Lakes Cricket is also played on savannahs and village pitches and Petrotrin’s Pointe-à-Pierre Golf Club. Nine-hole all over the country. Trinidad & Tobago Cricket Association: courses exist at Brechin Castle, Usine St Madeleine 636-1577, www.ttcricketboard.com and Chaguaramas. Trinidad & Tobago Golf Association: 629-7127, www.trinidadandtobagogolfassociation.com cycling Cycling is growing in popularity, with some big meets gyMs & fiTness attracting international participation. The Beacon Gyms are everywhere, including some of the larger Cycling Series and West Indies vs the World are hotels and malls. Many offer daily, weekly, and highlights of the racing calendar, as well as the monthly passes to their facilities and classes. National Championships (at the Arima Velodrome). Trinidad & Tobago Cycling Federation: www.ttcyclingfederation. Horse racing com Santa Rosa Park is Trinidad’s only racing track. There are about 40 race days annually, all on fooTball public holidays or Saturdays. Santa Rosa Park: 646- A close second to cricket in the heart of Trinidadians. 2450, www.santarosapark.com; Trinidad & Tobago Racing T&T hosted the FIFA World Under-17 championships Authority: 646-1986 Above Ramnaresh Sarwan and Dwayne Bravo at the Queen’s Park Oval in Port of Spain after a Test match against Sri Lanka (Gerard Gaskin) Opposite page “Hydrotherapy,” captained by Dane Ferreira, at Turtle Bay, Monos Island (Peter Sheppard) 122 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

yacHTing With its well-serviced marinas and boatyards, Chaguaramas is the hub of yachting activity. Immigration and Customs are based at CrewsInn. Chaguaramas’ sheltered harbours have countless maintenance and repair yards and marinas. Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago: 634-4938, www.ysatt.org; Trinidad Yacht Services: www. trinidadyachtservices.com 123

kayaking Popular spots include the Yara and Marianne rivers on the north coast; the Nariva Swamp (a guide like Caribbean Discovery Tours is necessary); and bE iN ThE kNOW… Williams Bay in Chaguaramas. Rental equipment is On beaches and on village and city savannahs it’s usually available onsite. common to see “fête-matches” in progress, whether it’s “small-goal” football, rugby or cricket MarTial arTs Several dojos teach martial arts styles. Purple Dragon teaches Trinidad’s only indigenous form of Karate, Don Jitsu Ryu, and operates several schools. Purple Dragon: 675-1688, www.purple-dragon.com; Shoto surfing Kan Karate Do International Federation: www.skiftt.com From November to March and during hurricane season, north coast beaches provide favourable sailing swells (with varying consistency). Sans Souci, Las Trinidad has one of the largest racing fleets in the Cuevas, L’Anse Mitan, Grande Rivière, Roughside Caribbean, and Chaguaramas is a major sailing and Salybia are also popular. In March, the Surfing hub. The racing runs approximately November–June. Association stages the CSN Sans Souci, the first The Sailing Association hosts 16 races, including event in the cross-Caribbean Carib Challenge Cup general handicap races where any boat can take series. Surfing Association Trinidad & Tobago: www. part. Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association: 634-4210, surfingtt.org www.ttsailing.org Tennis sporT fisHing Tennis is a vibrant sport in Trinidad, especially On-shore fishing in Trinidad is popular in at junior level. There are public courts at King Chaguaramas, Las Cuevas, Galera Point and George V Park in St Clair; courts for hourly rental the Nariva river mouth. Popular boat-fishing at the Trinidad Country Club and some hotels; and spots include the Chaguaramas islands. Fishing some with annual memberships. Reservations are tournaments are held year-round. Trinidad & Tobago needed to use public courts. Trinidad & Tobago Tennis Game Fishing Association: 632-6088, www.ttgfa.com Association: 625-3030 Other sports contacts • Basketball: National Basketball Federation, 646-1663, www.nbftt.org • Body building: Trinidad & Tobago Bodybuilding Federation, 678-9166 • Drag racing: Trinituner, www.trinituner.com • Hashing: Port of Spain Hash House Harriers, www.poshashhouse.tripod.com • Hockey: Trinidad & Tobago Hockey Board, www.tthb.tstt.net.tt • Horse riding: Trinidad & Tobago Equestrian Association, www.ttea.4t.com • Sporting Company of Trinidad & Tobago: 636-1401 or www.sportt-tt.com • Trinidad & Tobago Olympic Committee: 625-1285, Dragon Boat Race (Martin Farinha) www.ttoc.org 124 Discover Trinidad 2010 www.discovertrinidad.com

advErTiSEr liSTiNgS accoMMoDaTion Belleviste Apartments Crown Point Tobago 639-9351 www.belleviste.com Blue Haven Hotel Bacolet Bay, Scarborough Tobago 660-7400 www.bluehavenhotel.com Blue Waters Inn Batteaux Bay, Speyside Tobago 660-2583 www.bluewatersinn.com Crown Point Beach Hotel Crown Point Tobago 639-8781 www.crownpointbeachhotel.com Plantation Beach Villas Black Rock Tobago 639-9377 www.plantationbeachvillas.com Seahorse Inn Black Rock Tobago 639-0686 Store Bay Holiday Resort Crown Point Tobago 625-0428 www.storebayholidays.com Tropikist Hotel Crown Point Tobago 671-9143 www.tropikist.com Villa Sans Souci Tobago Plantations, Tobago 628-3334 www.villa-sans-souci.com Lowlands Villas at Stonehaven Black Rock Tobago 639-0361 www.stonehavenvillas.com Abercromby Inn 101 Abercromby St., Port Trinidad 627-6658 www.abercrombyinn.com of Spain Alicia’s House 7 Coblentz Gardens, St Trinidad 623-2802 www.aliciashouse.com Ann’s Allamanda 61 Carlos St., Woodbrook Trinidad 622-1480 Carlton Savannah 2 Coblentz Ave., Cascade Trinidad 621-5000 www.thecarltonsavannah.com Cascadia Hotel & 67 Ariapita Rd., St Ann’s Trinidad 623-3511 www.cascadiahotel.com Conference Centre Courtyard by Marriott Invaders Bay, Audrey Trinidad 627-5555 www.courtyard.com/poscy Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain Hilton Trinidad Lady Young Rd., Morvant Trinidad 624-3211 www.hiltoncaribbean.com/ trinidad Hyatt Regency Hotel 1 Wrightson Rd., Port Trinidad 821-6467 www.trinidad.hyatt.com of Spain Kapok Hotel 16–18 Cotton Hill, St Clair Trinidad 622-5765 www.kapokhotel.com Monique’s Guesthouse 114–116 Saddle Rd., Trinidad 628-3334 www.moniquestrinidad.com Maraval Mt Plaisir Estate Hotel Grande Riviere, Toco Trinidad 670-1868 www.mtplaisir.com Par May La’s Picton St., Woodbrook Trinidad 628-2008 www.parmaylas.com Royal Hotel 46–54 Royal Rd., San Trinidad 652-4881 www.royalhoteltt.com Fernando Tradewinds Hotel 38 London St., St Joseph Trinidad 652-9463 www.tradewindshotel.net Village, San Fernando Dining & nigHTlife Bar Code Corner Mt Marie & Milford Tobago 635-2633 www.barcodetobago.com Rds, Scarborough Blue Haven Hotel Bacolet Bay, Scarborough Tobago 660-7400 www.bluehavenhotel.com 125

Blue Waters Inn Batteaux Bay, Speyside Tobago 660-2583 www.bluewatersinn.com Crown Point Beach Hotel Crown Point Tobago 639-8781 www.crownpointbeachhotel.com Seahorse Inn Black Rock Tobago 639-0686 Adam’s Bagels 15A Saddle Rd., Maraval Trinidad 622-2435 Angelo’s 38 Ariapita Ave., Trinidad 628-5551 Woodbrook Carlton Savannah 2 Coblentz Ave., Cascade Trinidad 621-5000 www.thecarltonsavannah.com Cascadia Hotel & 67 Ariapita Rd., St Ann’s Trinidad 623-3511 www.cascadiahotel.com Conference Centre Hilton Trinidad Lady Young Rd., Morvant Trinidad 624-3211 www.hiltoncaribbean.com/ trinidad Hyatt Regency Hotel 1 Wrightson Rd., Port Trinidad 821-6467 www.trinidad.hyatt.com of Spain J. Malone’s MovieTowne & Trincity Trinidad 624-9828 www.yorkgarmentsltd.com Mall Kapok Hotel 16–18 Cotton Hill, St Clair Trinidad 622-5765 www.kapokhotel.com Roustica Upper Level, Trincity Mall, Trinidad 640-5080 www.yorkgarmentsltd.com Trincity Snappers Upper Level, Trincity Mall, Trinidad 640-5080 www.yorkgarmentsltd.com Trincity Subway Lot 21, Frederick Trinidad 645-8158 Settlement, Caroni Sweet Lime Ariapita Ave., Woodbrook Trinidad 624-9983 www.sweetlime.co.tt and South Trunk Rd., La Romaine Trader Jack’s MovieTowne, Invaders Trinidad 222-2571 www.yorkgarmentsltd.com Bay Tradewinds Hotel 38 London St., St Joseph Trinidad 652-9463 www.tradewindshotel.net Village, San Fernando Veni Mange 67A Ariapita Ave., Trinidad 628-5254 www.venimange.com Woodbrook Verandah 10 Rust St., St Clair Trinidad 622-6287 Zanzibar Fiesta Plaza, MovieTowne, Trinidad 627-0752 Invaders Bay Touring & Travel Footprints Eco Resort Culloden Bay Rd. Tobago 374-7518 www.footprints-resorts.com Frankie’s Tours Mt Irvine Tobago 631-0369 www.frankietours-tobago.com Ocean Experience Pigeon Point Tobago 374-7518 Plantation Beach Black Rock Tobago 639-9377 www.sailtobago.com Watersports Sherman’s Auto Rentals Lambeau Village Tobago 629-2292 Thrifty Car Rental Crown Point Tobago 639-8507 www.thrifty.com Auto Rentals Lady Young Rd., Morvant Trinidad 675-7368 www.autorentalstt.com Budget Rent-a-Car 5 Plover St., Lange Park, Trinidad 669-6103 www.budget.com Chaguanas 126 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

Caribbean Discovery Tours 9B Fondes Amandes, Trinidad 624-7281 www.caribbeandiscoverytous. St Ann’s com Kalloo’s Auto Rentals 31 French St., Port of Trinidad 622-9073 www.kalloos.com Spain Port Authority of Trinidad Wrightson Rd., Port of Trinidad 623-9353 www.patnt.com & Tobago Spain T&T Sightseeing Tours 165A Western Main Rd., Trinidad 628-1051 www.trintours.com St James Water Taxi Service St Vincent St., Port of Trinidad 623-1886 www.nidco.co.tt Spain business & coMMunicaTions Abraham Tobago Realty Bacolet St., Scarborough Tobago 639-3325 www.abrahamrealty.com Caribbean Paper & Printed 60A Boundary Rd. Ext., Trinidad 674-1884 www.cppp93.com Products (CPPP) San Juan Central Bank Money Eric Williams Plaza, Trinidad 625-2601 www.central-bank.org.tt Museum Independence Sq., Port of Spain National Gas Company of Pt Lisas Industrial Estate, Trinidad 636-4662 www.ngc.co.tt Trinidad & Tobago Pt Lisas Republic Bank Head Office, 11–17 Park Trinidad 625-4411 www.republictt.com St., Port of Spain Telecommunications Head Office, 1 Edward Trinidad 625-4431 www.bmobile.co.tt Services of Trinidad & St., Port of Spain Tobago Tucker Real Estate 167 Western Main Rd., Trinidad 628-9307 www.tuckerrealestate.com St James spas Donna’s Skin Studio 126, SS Erin Rd., Duncan Trinidad 652-1782 Village, San Fernando Face & Body Clinic Cross Crossing Shopping Trinidad 653-8329 www.faceandbodyclinic.com Plaza, San Fernando Sanctuary Day Spa 10 Broome St., St Clair Trinidad 628-8040 Santosha Spa 2 Coblentz Ave., Cascade Trinidad 621-5000 www.thecarltonsavannah.com sHopping Bago To Go Main St., Scarborough Tobago 631-0068 Gulf City Lowlands Mall Lowlands Tobago 631-1321 Shore Things Ltd 25 Milford Rd., Lambeau Tobago 635-1072 B&Tees 12 Diamond Vale Trinidad 637-3412 www.nativespirittees.com Industrial Estate, Diamond Vale Excellent City Centre 3 Frederick St., Port of Trinidad 671-7283 www.excellentstorestt.com Spain Just CDs Long Circular Mall, St Trinidad 622-3472 James and MovieTowne Sapodilla Gift Shop Level 2, Trincity Mall Trinidad 662-0282 127

TObagO St G Island iles MAP KEY 128 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

Tobago: SCarbOrOugh Bank Church Bank Church 129

MAP KEY Cave Beach with facilities Peak Beach without facilities Petrol station Beach Trinidad: NOrTh WEST Automatic Lighthouse Teller Machine Fort 130 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 ‘ www.discovertnt.com

MAP KEY Automatic Post o ce Cave Waterfall Beach without facilities Teller Machine Police station Peak Golf course Lighthouse Petrol station Path Viewpoint Swimming area Beach Trinidad: NOrTh EaST Place of interest Waterway Swamp Beach with facilities Turtle nesting site 131

Trinidad: pOrT OF SpaiN 132 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

134 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com

MAP KEY Trinidad: CENTral 135

Trinidad: SaN FErNaNdO 137

Trinidad: SOuTh 138 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 Cu na po Solomon Hochoy H i g hway Rd . Gulf of Paria Rio Nap arima - Mayaro Rd. Claro San Fernando Naparima R Indian Mayaro d M Tableland an ah Walk Grand La Romain a m b r e R d. Devilís W oodyard O r t o ire R iver Lagoon La Brea St Princes Madeleine Mud V olcanoes R io Mayaro Pitch Lake Town Cl www.discovertnt.com Third ar Vessigny o- Sixth G Company Company ua Mayaroya gu Bay Point Oropuche Debe nders Rd/Cats Hill R d . aya re R d. Fortin Lag oon Sau F y z a ba d R d . Chatham Fyzabad Mud Mayaro-Guayaguayare Rd. North Volcanoes TRINITY HILLS Penal WILDLIFE SANCTUARY R d. nT ru n k . R o ck R d . & RESERVE Guayaguayare th e r Rd Granville S ou rin Siparia -E Cedros ria Erin pa Guayaguayare Cedros Mud o- Si Galeota LS Rd Mud Volcanoes . Bay Volcanoes a nd HIL Bay Point Pena l Qu C o o ra Erin Erin er n I TY Fullarton (San nF Morne RIN Rd. Sa Diablo T Columbus Mud Chatham Francique) Moruga inam Rd. Bay Bonasse Volcanoes Mud South Puerto Volcanoes Moruga Grande Palo Quinam Columbus Channel Mud Erin Los Seco Icacos Volcano Pt Iros The Police Station Serpentís Mouth Highway Automatic Teller Machine

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Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2010

by ixoratnt on Jul 19, 2010

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Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2010 — Document Transcript