Discover Trinidad & Tobago Guide 2011

20th ANNIVERSARY ISSUE A

ER - IS INT L T Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island CONTENTS AN T& Ferry Service T RA ER - I S INT L T L SP Welcome 5 A T& ND O N OR TATION C . LTD TR SP Your T&T directory 118 AN OR O TATION C . Calendar 2011 16 T&T in brief 7 History 15 Travel tips 11 Discover Trinidad 20 Accommodation 22 Environment 53 Arts & entertainment 31 Festivals 59 Beaches 36 Nightlife 63 Business 40 Shopping 67 Carnival 44 Sightseeing 71 Production team Eating out 49 Sports 78 Editors Caroline Taylor, Jeremy Taylor Design and *photography Aisha Provoteaux, Ariann Thompson * except where otherwise credited Discover Tobago 82 Sales Denise Chin, Jacqueline Smith Writers Jason Arthur, Laura Dowrich- Phillips, Judy Raymond, Caroline Taylor, Ariann Thompson Editorial assistant Mirissa De Four Production Joanne Mendes, Quality Service Jacqueline Smith Cover photo by Ariann Thompson Printed by The Office AuthorityFamily A publication of Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. (MEP), 6 Prospect Accommodation 86 Festivals 102 Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Arts & entertainment 89 Shopping 106 Trinidad & Tobago Beaches 92 Sightseeing 109 T: (868) 622-3821 • F: (868) 628-0639 • E: info@discovertnt.com Eating out 96 Sports 114 • W: www.discovertnt.com Eco-adventure 98 And connect with us online on: • Facebook www.facebook.com/discovertnt Reference 118 • Twitter www.twitter.com/meppublishers Discover the other 136 San Fernando 130 • Blog: http://meppublishers.blogspot.com Maps Scarborough 133 Central Trinidad 128 South Trinidad 132 © 2011 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this Northeast Trinidad 127 Tobago 134 Vacation publication may be reproduced in any Northwest Trinidad 126 Trinidad 122 form whatsoever without the prior written consent of the publisher. Port of Spain 124 Service directory 118 ABOVE LEFT: Clear-water pool, Asa Wright Nature Centre, Trinidad ABOVE RIGHT: Barbados Bay, Tobago, where a fresh fish market operates Monday – Saturday 1

WELCOME! Thank you for choosing Trinidad & Tobago. And thank you for choosing Discover Trinidad & Tobago to show you around.We will cover as much as we can in these few national and international writers, photographers,short pages, and share some of our favourite editors, and designers.places and pastimes. They are so different,these two small Caribbean islands near the Discover onlinecoast of South America. Trinidad has the cultural We have also amassed an archive of invaluableenergy, the buzz, the instinct for satire and material on T&T from these outstandingcelebration; it is resource-rich with oil and gas, contributors, who know this country and careand environmentally rich too, as any naturalist about getting things right. You can see all ofwill tell you. Tobago meanwhile is legendary for it on our new website, www.discovertnt.com,its peace and calm, its glorious beaches, its where we hope you will find everything you needaffection for the old-time ways. to explore every aspect of T&T life and culture.Four sectionsTo help you explore these two contrastingislands, we have divided this book into four Trinidad &sections. The first (pages 1 – 19) provides Tobago’s tourism sTAndArdsbasic practical information common to authorities run an & fEEdbAckboth Tobago and Trinidad — money matters, annual inspectiontransport, headline events. The second programme(pages 20 – 78) explores Trinidad, the larger called Trinidad &island, with different areas of interest arranged Tobago Tourism Industryalphabetically, from Accommodation to Sports. Certification (TTTIC). A special logo is used to indicate approval. CurrentThe third section (pages 79 – 123) does the information can be found at www.same for Tobago. The final section (pages 114 gotrinidadandtobago.com.– 132) contains maps of both islands and their Advertising in Discover is openbiggest cities and towns. Here you will also to anybody, but publication offind a Service Directory, listing our advertising an advertisement does not implypartners, who are more than ready to help editorial or official endorsement,you with any aspect of your visit; and finally a quality assurance, or participation inpage encouraging you not to leave Trinidad & the TTTIC programme.Tobago without seeing both islands. Every effort has been made to ensure that information is correct at press time.our 20th anniversary But things in T&T change swiftly,With this edition, Discover Trinidad & Tobago and we make no guarantees aboutcelebrates 20 years of publication. It is the only information presented. If you havelocal guide to have published for so long, year any suggestions or queries, we wouldin, year out. In that time we’ve produced 22 be delighted to hear from you: we takeeditions, become the most sustainably produced all feedback seriously.local guide, and worked with some of the finest 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E wElcomE 5

T&T IN BRIEFQuick factsairports: Crown Point International Airport, (1,864 sq miles) or 105x80km (65x50 miles)Tobago (10km/7 miles from Scarborough);Piarco International Airport, Trinidad (27km/17 time zone: GMT -4, EST +1miles from Port of Spain) Government:climate: tropical. Dry season January – May, • system: parliamentary democracywet June – December (islands just south of the • ruling party: the People’s Partnershipnormal hurricane belt). Temperature range 72 – • prime minister: Kamla Persad-Bissessar95°F (22 – 35°C); average 83°F (29°C) • president: George Maxwell Richards • opposition party: People’s Nationalhighest point: Trinidad’s El Cerro del Aripo Movement(940m/3,085ft); Tobago’s Main Ridge(549m/1,860ft) language: English (official)location: 11°N, 61°W. Trinidad and Tobago Population: 1.2 million (July 2010):33km (21 miles) apart, 10km (7 miles) from 40% Indian, 37.5% African, 21.7% mixed.Venezuelan coast 50,000 (primarily African descent) in Tobagosize: Tobago 300km2 (116 sq miles) or religion: Roman Catholic 26%, other Christian48x16km (30x10 miles). Trinidad 4,828km2 31.6%, Hindu 22.5%, Muslim 5.8%A yellow poui tree in the Queen’s Park Savannah (Nisha Kong)capital: the national capital is Port of Spain, above (pop 45,000, 270,000 metropolitan).Tobago’s capital is Scarborough (pop 17,000) 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T&T In brIEf 7

PUblIc wI-fI ArEAs Media and communications Piarco country phone code: +868 Press: three daily national Airport; newspapers (Express, Rituals coffee shops mail: TTPost (national mail Guardian, Newsday), seven (nationwide); Sweet service); plus FedEx, DHL, weeklies (including Tobago Lime Restaurant UPS and others News), one tri-weekly (Woodbrook); Trincity Mall (food court); and landline telephone: radio: 37 FM stations; two a growing number of Telecommunications Services AM stations other locations of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT) and FLOW. Prepaid Television: 12 local stations, international phone cards five free-to-air (NCC-4, CCN available TV6, Gayelle, CNC3 and C-TV), seven available only mobile telephone: bmobile via cable (ACTS, IBN, ieTV, (TSTT) and Digicel operate on Parliament Channel, Synergy, Practicalities GSM networks; prepaid SIM Tobago Channel 5, Win-TV); cards available for unlocked some only available on one currency: Trinidad and phones island Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1=TT$6.30 driving: on the left. Trinidad speed limits 80kph (50mph) on highways and 55kph (34mph) in settled areas; 50kph (32mph) in Tobago. Seatbelts required. Visitors can drive up to 90 days on valid foreign/ international licenceCaribbean Airlines and Air Jamaica offer the best valueand the best travel experience. Come... fly with us. Electricity: 115v/230v, 60HzCaribbean AirlinesAntigua • Barbados • Caracas • Guyana • Jamaica • New York/JFK money: ABMs (ATMs), credit/South Florida • St. Maarten • Suriname • Toronto • Trinidad & TobagoAir Jamaica debit cards and travellers’Fort Lauderdale • Grenada • Kingston • Montego Bay cheques in general useNassau • New York/JFK • Philadelphia • Toronto Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; VAT 15% on goods and services water: tap water safe to drink (boil to be extra safe) Scarlet ibis among the mangrove at Caroni Swamp (Maria Huggins) 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T&T In 9 brIEf

TRAvEL TIPS how to reach Trinidad & Tobago how to move around in T&T by air: scheduled flights are operated by Aeropostal, American Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental, To and from the airports: Copa, LIAT, Monarch, Spirit, Suriname Airways, and Virgin authorised taxis operate Atlantic. Others offer charter flights outside arrivals halls at Piarco and Crown Point airports; by sea: the peak cruise ship season is November – April, check the approved rates (on with visits from Fred Olsen, Holland America, Ocean Village, display at the taxi stands) Princess, Saga Travel, Seabourn, and Windstar lines Private taxis: have to be on arrival: you need a passport valid for three months beyond summoned by phone (check your intended stay. Non-residents need documentation of Yellow Pages) return or onward travel and a valid local address. Visas are generally not required for visits up to 30 days. For yacht arrivals, car rental: local and clearance certificate from the last port of call and the vessel’s international companies have registration certificate (or authorisation for use) are required offices at the airports water taxi: a regular water taxi service (above) links Port of Spain with San Fernando. The journey time is around 45 minutes and the one-way fare TT$15. The service is operated by the National Infrastructure Development Company (623-0310, nidco.co.tt). At press time, four new vessels had joined the operation; there was discussion about adding new stops (Chaguanas, Point Fortin) and new routes (to Venezuela and nearby islands), and the need to increase the fare to TT$20 — check discovertnt.com for updated information.10 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s 11

Tour operators: see directory Fleets of privately operated, PUblIc TAXIs on pages 118 – 21 unscheduled maxi-taxis (12 – buses: operate from hubs in 25 seat small vans or mini- Port of Spain (City Gate, on buses) and route taxis (ordinary South Quay), Chaguanas, and cars) operate specific routes, picking King’s Wharf, San Fernando up passengers and dropping them off by request. to most of Trinidad; and from Maxi-taxis have coloured stripes to indicate the area Sangster’s Hill, Scarborough, they serve. Legal, registered taxis have licence plates to most parts of Tobago. beginning with h and are unmetered, so confirm the Many are new, articulated, fare in advance. air-conditioned vehicles. Fares are low; schedules can be Public taxis operate from different stands depending checked at ptsc.co.tt on the route they take: Inter-island ferries: see Port of Spain to: Route taxi stand: page 136 Cascade Charlotte and Prince Streets Chaguanas Broadway and Independence Square Curepe – Sangre Grande lower Henry Street republic bank Diego Martin/Petit Valley South Quay and Abercromby Street how to contact... Maraval Duke and Charlotte Streets San Fernando Broadway and Independence division of Tourism, Square Tobago: 639-2125, San Juan lower Charlotte Street visittobago.gov.tt St Ann’s/St James Hart Street Immigration division: 625- Wrightson Road lower Chacon Street 3571 (Trinidad), 639-2681 Long Circular Road lower Chacon Street (Tobago), immigration.gov.tt Chaguaramas Park and St Vincent Streets Tobago House of Assembly: 639-3421, tha.gov.tt Chaguanas to: Tourism development Couva & nearby towns higher Southern Main Road company: 675-7034, tdc. Curepe Chaguanas Main Road co.tt, gotrinidadandtobago. Port of Spain lower Southern Main Road com Tourist information offices: San Fernando to: 639-0509 (Crown Point All areas see map, page 130 Airport); 635-0934 (Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago); 669- Scarborough to: 5196 (Piarco Airport) All areas Carrington Street Trinidad & Tobago government online: ttconnect.gov.tt12 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s 13

hISTORYmaxi-taxis: depart from City Gate on South Quay, or from thecorner of South Quay and Wrightson Road, in Port of Spain; PrEcAUTIonsin San Fernando from Queen Street or St James Street; and inTobago from lower Scarborough opposite the port.Colour Route like much of the world, Pre-Columbian timesBlack San Fernando – Princes Town, connections to Mayaro the islands are affected Both islands settled by Amerindian tribes migrating northwards from the South American mainland fromBlue Tobago by crime, particularly around 5,000 BCBrown San Fernando – La Romaine – Siparia – Point Fortin Trinidad.Green Port of Spain – Chaguanas – San FernandoRed Port of Spain – Arima, connections to Always: drive with Separate colonies Blanchisseuse/Matelot extreme care ... leave tobago trinidadYellow Port of Spain – Diego Martin – Chaguaramas valuables at home 1498 On his third voyage, Columbus 1498 Columbus lands in Trinidad, naming or well concealed ... sights Tobago and calls it Magdalena it after the Trinity walk in company ... 1627 – 1650 Various attempts at European 1498 – 1797 Neglected Spanish colony;Emergency numbers lock your vehicle ... settlement Amerindians decimated lock your room/house 1768 Tobago Assembly established late 18c French Catholic planters arrive;Ambulance (public fire: 990 door ... close windows 1672 – 1781 British, Dutch, French jostling for Africans imported as slaveshospitals): 811 Hyperbaric medical facility: at night or if you are control 1797 British colonycrime stoppers: 800-TIPS, 660-4369 (Roxborough, going out ... be aware 1781 French sugar colony 1838 End of slaverycrimestopperstt.com Tobago) of your surroundings 1814 British sugar colony 1845 – 1917 144,000 indentured labourersEms (emergency medical Office of Disaster ... raise an alarm and 1838 End of slavery imported from Indiaservices): 624-4343 (north Preparedness: 640-1285 head to the nearest 1889 Under Trinidad control; 1858 British start trying to suppressTrinidad), 653-4343 (south/ (Trinidad), 660-7489 (Tobago) police station if you Assembly disbanded Carnivalcentral Trinidad), 639-4444 Police: 999 or 555 (Trinidad); suspect you are being(Tobago) 639-2520/5590 (Tobago) followed never: venture A single nation into deserted orSustainable travel unfamiliar areas alone under British rule 1898 Tobago fully merged with TrinidadBoth climate change and globalisation can hit developing island ... wear extravagant 1903 “Water Riots” in Port of Spain, Red House burned downnations particularly hard. Here’s what you can do to safeguard the jewellery ... leave 1925 First national elections, with limited franchiseislands’ natural and cultural treasures: handbags or wallets 1937 Oilfield and labour strikes lying around ... use 1945 Universal adult suffragebuy local: buy local CDs, books and DVDs from authorised an ABM if you sense 1945 Public emergence of steelbandsretailers (not pirated copies); and purchase locally produced food someone suspicious 1956 Internal self-governmentand souvenirs (not made from endangered species) nearby (if your card gets stuck, call thefly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon bank immediately) Independencedioxide emissions from your flight ... leave valuables in 1962 Independence from Britain your car ... leave car 1970 “Black Power” uprisingmind your gas: choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs windows down when 1976 Republic within the Commonwealthwhen renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; don’t stopping, especially 1980 Tobago House of Assembly restoredlet your car idle; keep your tyres inflated; try to carpool; and when at night ... engage in 1990 Unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro-Islamist Jamaat al-Muslimeenyou can, walk or cycle any altercations with 2010 Most recent general election strangers14 T r A V E l T I P s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E HIsTorY 15

CALENDAR 2011 APRIL A month for music: Pan Jazz in de Yard (Trinidad) • Trinidad) • Maypole Festival (Tobago) • Rapsofest: the Power of the Oral Traditions • 29th, in honour of St Peter, patron saint of fishermen • and trade unionists rally Jazz Artists on the Greens Harvest festivals in Tobago their members in Fyzabad, (Pigeon Point, Tobago) • (Whim, Delaford, Belle south Trinidad, on Labour Tobago Jazz Experience Garden and Mason Hall) Day (public holiday, 19th) in and Jazz on the Beach memory of past battles (Tobago) • Pan in the 21st JUNE Century (Trinidad) A heavy emphasis on Also: WeBeat Festival (St commemoration this James, Trinidad) • Harvest Also: the long Easter month: young Tobagonians festivals in Tobago (Lambeau, weekend, with public celebrate island traditions Bloody Bay and Roxborough holidays on Friday 22 and with the Junior Tobago Monday 25: horse-racing Heritage Festival • Hindus JULY at the Santa Rosa track in remember India’s sacred Tobago’s month: Tobago Arima (Trinidad), goat and River Ganges with the Heritage Festival • Great crab races in Mt Pleasant Ganga Dhaara River Fête Weekend • Prime (Monday) and Buccoo Festival (Blanchisseuse, Minister’s Charity Golf (Tuesday) • Point Fortin Trinidad) • Christians Classic • Charlotteville Borough Day: a week of mark Corpus Christi (3rd, Fisherman’s Fest • South J’Ouvert, mas, pan and a public holiday) and the Caribbean Open Golf parties • Trade & Investment Fishermen’s Fest on the Tournament • Tobago Convention (Trinidad) • Goodwood harvest festival JANUARY MARCH (Tobago) • T&T LiteraryThe Carnival season begins. During Carnival reaches its climax on Monday 7 Festivalthe month, the parties and panyards, the and Tuesday 8, after a week of big showsentertainers and mas camps get under way (Soca Monarch, Panorama, Dimanche Gras), MAYin earnest and is followed by cool-downs at beaches A month of food and and at Argyle Falls, Tobago fashion: Taste TrinidadAlso: New Year’s Day (public holiday) • & Tobago celebrates theSailing and cricket seasons begin • Tobago In sport: Trinidad & Tobago Golf Open • islands’ culinary skills •Carnival Caravan • Harvest festivals in Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament Tobago stages its CulinaryTobago (Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring Festival • Trinidad &Garden, Plymouth, Mt Pleasant) Also: Chinese New Year on the 3rd (the Tobago Fashion Week year of the Rabbit) • Jazz Artists on the FEBRUARY Greens • Hindu spring festival of Phagwa Also: a public holiday forThe Carnival season – a long one this year (Holi) • Turtle nesting season begins • Indian Arrival Day on the– is in top gear Public holiday on the 30th for Spiritual 30th, celebrating the arrival “Shouter” Baptist Liberation Day, of the first Indians in 1845Also: Tobago Carnival Caravan • Tobago commemorating the end of the colonial ban • Beacon Cycling Series •Carnival Regatta (Tobago) • Harvest on the “Shouter” Baptist faith • Harvest Rainbow Cup International OPPOSITE PAGE: Soca celebrity Machel Montano charms the kids at the children’s concert “Boyfestivals in Tobago (Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo, festivals in Tobago (Mt St George, Mason Triathlon (Tobago) • La Boy and the Magic Drum” ABOVE: Black Rock Performers folk dancer representing “A Queen ofFranklyn, Bon Accord) Hall, Roxborough, Bon Accord) Divina Pastora (Siparia, Spirit” (CaféMoka)16 C A L E N D A R D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T H a n n i v e r s a ry i s s u e CALENDAR 17

The Hindu festival of Ganga Dharaa honours the environment and Mother Ganga (Martin Farinha) in Castara and Black Rock the start of the season (Trinidad) • National Tourism for parang, Spanish- Week • Harvest festival in Also: Jazz on the Hill flavoured music, which will Patience Hill, Tobago (Trinidad) • Soca for run straight through till Summer and other big Christmas noVEmbEr concerts featuring local Pan is Beautiful in and international stars • Also: the Eid-ul-Fitr holiday Trinidad, the Scarborough Steelband Music Festival marking the end of the Muslim Cup Golf Tournament (Trinidad) • Tourism fasting month of Ramadan • and Christmas Caravan in Adventure Park/T&T Road Republic Day (24th, public Tobago Trip: displays, tours, and live holiday) marks the country’s entertainment transition into a republic in Also: Best Village 1976 • International Open competition finals • Harvest AUGUsT Water Swim • Horse-racing festivals in Plymouth, Black A month of nationalist classics in Arima: Royal Oak Rock, Les Coteaux, Moriah, feeling: Emancipation Day Derby, Santa Rosa Oaks Scarborough, Montgomery (1st, a public holiday) marks and Caribbean Champion (Tobago) the end of slavery in 1838; Stakes (Trinidad) • Panyard Independence Day (31st, Sensations • San Fernando dEcEmbEr a public holiday) marks Jazz Festival (Trinidad) Christmas (public holiday, independence from Britain • Tobago Fest: parties, 25th) dominates everything, street parade and J’Ouvert followed immediately by Also: the Carib Great • Tobago International Boxing Day (public holiday, Race for powerboats, from Gospel Festival • Turtle- 26th) with its horse-racing Trinidad to Tobago) • Arima watching season ends and parties, as minds turn to Borough Day: J’Ouvert, next year’s Carnival steelpan, calypso and parties ocTobEr • Best Village Competition Staging of the hindu Also: Paramin Parang begins, and runs through epic Ramleela prepares Festival (Trinidad) • the November • Muhtadi the way for the festival of Muslim festival of Hosay International Drumming Divali (public holiday, late (Trinidad) • on Assembly Festival in Tobago • Osun October/early November) Day, the Tobago House River Festival • Castara and its thousands of of Assembly celebrates Fisherman’s Fête (Tobago) flickering deyas and rewards Tobagonians’ • Santa Rosa Festival achievements, with (Arima) • Harvest festival in Also: Steelpan & Jazz exhibitions, sports and Speyside, Tobago Festival (Trinidad) • Coast- recreation • Tobago Flying 2-Coast Adventure Race Colours (kite-flying festival in sEPTEmbEr (Trinidad) • Amerindian Plymouth). Towards the end of the Heritage Day, Arima • Blue month come the ambitious Food Festival (Tobago) • Many dates are set shortly before T&T Film Festival and European Film Festival the event, and are always subject to change or cancellation. For more, see our Festivals sections under each island, and visit us online at www.discovertnt.com.18 19

Cruise ships docked in Port of Spain for a CommonwealthHeads of Government Meeting (Keown Thomas) TRINIDAD20 21

ACCOMMODATION The business traveller A weekend conference, a Carnival adventure, a search for the blue- Business hotels in Trinidad can crowned motmot... Trinidad’s visitors have their needs and budgets, be grand or simply practical, and the island’s accommodation stock can cater for them all. but they provide what the businessman needs and expects. Several of the major brands have properties in and around Port of Spain (Crowne The eco-adventurer Plaza, Hilton, Holiday Inn, Hyatt, Marriott), and there are The eco-visitors and nature enthusiasts, both scientific and some popular independent amateur, on the other hand, get out of town quickly and head properties like the Kapok. There for the hills and the forests. A few properties cater especially is plenty of flexible conference for those interested in the island’s flora and fauna, its wetlands, and meeting space in the city, its nesting turtles, and above all its magnificent variety of birds. and a recently established Accommodation is usually close by, but is in limited supply: it conference bureau. Excellent includes the world-famous Asa Wright Nature Centre in the hills hotels and facilities are part above Arima. of the reason why Trinidad continues to be the business For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit centre of the region. us online at discovertnt.com. AVAIlAbIlITY & PrIcEs The vacationer hotel rooms average City, coast or mountain? Port of Spain is not uS$125 a night, the best base for a sun-and-sand holiday (the guesthouses $65; famous Maracas Bay is more than half an hour’s but discounted rates and packages drive); its visitors are after the excitement of are often available. however, peak its music, partying, bars and nightspots, its season is December – April, and flamboyance and its general “buzz”. Luxury rates increase dramatically around seekers gravitate to the large hotels with Carnival time when droves of their world-class spas and entertainment; expatriates and tourists flock to adventurers and budget travellers stay at the Trinidad. Book as far in advance as smaller hotels, guesthouses, and bed-and- you can. breakfast properties. Beyond the city, the north and northeast coasts supply most of the beachABOVE: Anise Resort & Spa, Sans Souci properties, smart or rustic.22 A c c o m m o d A T I o n D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A c c o m m o d AT I o n 23

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT The small size of the local arts scene means that many artists are part-time semi-professionals. But there’s certainly no shortage of vibrancy or creativity. T RINIDAD artists draw on the classical and folk traditions of Europe, Africa and India, combining them in original ways or addingEmail: info@aliciashouse.comwebsite: www.aliciashouse.com a creole touch to create new forms that are distinctly Trinidadian. With limited audiences, events often have short runs, so if you blink you’ll miss them. Keep a close eye on ads and announcements in the local media and especially online. Facebook has become one of the most reliable sources for information about current arts and cultural events. Most of the work not directly related to the Carnival arts closes down after Christmas, when Carnival shows and parties take over, and resumes by Easter. Around September, Signal Hill Alumni Choir performing at their 25th anniversary concert at Queen’s Hall (Keown Thomas) 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 31

look out for performances on THEof Ramleela, an epic Books frInGE Alice Yard (aliceyard.blogspot.com) Filmadaptation of the Ramayana in Woodbrook is the backyard of aenacted by villagers at Monique Roffey and Amanda Smyth are among local writers house that once belonged to architect The two-week annual Trinidadopen-air venues, mostly in who have published internationally successful books recently: Sean Leonard’s great-grandmother. & Tobago Film Festival incentral Trinidad. Roffey’s novel White Woman on a Green Bicycle was shortlisted Now it hosts performances and installations September screens local, for the 2010 Orange Prize. Both visited Port of Spain to launch by local and visiting artists who work in the visual regional and internationalActivity is typically their books. media, dance, music, and literature. Recently it’s been films at MovieTowne andconcentrated in or near the site of a pop-up store selling clothes and bags other venues. TrinidadianPort of Spain, with music Book launches, readings and lectures take place at the National designed by Robert Young of The Cloth. filmmakers Horace Ové, Yaoand theatre taking place in Library, UWI, the University of Trinidad & Tobago, the National Ramesar, and Frances-Annevenues from Chaguaramas, Museum, and at bookstores. The biggest names in local Erotic Art Week, in mid-year, features painting, Solomon have had notablewest of the capital, to literature are Nobel laureates VS Naipaul and Derek Walcott, but drawing, photography, readings and cellphone films, releases in the last few years.the university of the there are many more. among other things. The organisers say it’s “open toWest Indies (uWI) in the any contemporary artistic exploration of our erotic Most Thursday nights there areeast. But San Fernando Look for fiction and plays from Lisa Allen-Agostini, Tony Hall, ethos”. It’s staged simultaneously at venues that free showings of art films athas its own arts scene, Earl Lovelace, Ian McDonald, VS Naipaul, Elizabeth Nunez, Sam include a rumshop, a wine bar, and the offices of an Studio Film Club, run by artistsa long-established Selvon, and Elizabeth Walcott-Hackshaw. For writing on local advertising agency. Peter Doig and Che Lovelace.theatre tradition, and history, culture and environment, see Michael Anthony, Lloyda new Academy for the Best, Anthony de Verteuil, Bridget Brereton, Gérard Besson, The local version of the Red Earth Festival trinidadandtobagofilmfestival.Performing Arts in the CLR James, Kim Johnson, John La Rose, Julian Kenny, Eric (redearthfestival.webs.com), presented in June to com, studiofilmclub.blogspot.works. Williams, and Discover’s sister organisation Prospect Press. coincide with World Environmental Day and of com which Discover is a media sponsor, offers poetry,Government-sponsored music, and clay sculpture workshops as well asevents include the annual environment-related activities.production of Best village, Dance BELOW: National Academy for the Performing Arts, Port of Spaina festival of the folk arts.The new National Academy Dance companies put on short annual seasons, usually atfor the Performing Arts in Queen’s Hall. The work runs the gamut from the experimentalPort of Spain has staged modern style of Dave Williams to the classical/European dance ofspecially commissioned the Cascade Festival Ballet, and Indian dance from the Nrityanjalishows that include Theatre. Other notable names: Noble Douglas, Astor Johnson,steelband concerts and Metamorphosis, Carol La Chapelle, Elle Inc, and regional folkmusicals. performing groups.Fashion and jewelleryLeading designers take part in Fashion Week T&T in mid-year, and present their own shows, often atyear-end. Leaders in the field are Heather Jones, Claudia Pegus and Meiling.Local jewellery ranges from the shells and seeds strung together by Akilah Jaramogi (sold, alongwith other local craft, at the Hotel Normandie), to the works of art wrought from gems and preciousmetals by Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Barbara Jardine, and Jasmine Thomas-Girvan.32 A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 33

3Canal performing at Queen’s Hall (Stephen Broadbridge) visual arts The National Museum (623-5941) has a small representative collection of local art which is on show for most of the year, and a collection of watercolours by the country’s leading 19th-century painter, Michel Jean Cazabon. The Art Society (artsocietytt.org, 622-9827) has an annual show in November of new work that includes paintings, drawings, and sculpture. The society also organises plein-air painting sessions in picturesque venues, mostly in the dry season, of course. Art exhibitions can be found, primarily between Easter and Christmas, at several established galleries and other venues that might include an artist’s home, a restaurant, or the lobby of aMusic corporate headquarters.Trinidad’s most popular musical exports are Choral groups such as the Marionettes and Landscape features very prominently in local painting, but there’s also abstract and avant-gardeprobably the steelpan (created in Port of Spain the Lydian Singers perform local and western work to be seen. Names to look for: MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, sculptors Ralph and Vera Baney,in the 1930s) and soca. Classic old-time classical music, sometimes accompanied Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward Bowen, Carlisle Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Kencalypso is still a staple on the menu at the by steelbands, which also stage occasional Crichlow, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Che Lovelace, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, LisaNu Pub (formerly the Mas Camp) on Ariapita concerts of their own. Budding and established O’Connor, Peter Sheppard, Sundiata, and Noel Vaucrosson.Avenue in Woodbrook, and steelpan players solo vocalists host their own recitals. For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.entertain audiences at competitions, festivalsand events year-round (but especially at If you’re in the mood to party, look for showsCarnival time). by Machel Montano; Kes the Band; Destra Garcia and Atlantik; Shurwayne WinchesterHome-grown indie music, local rock, jazz and and YOU; Faye-Ann Lyons, Bunji Garlin and thechutney can often be heard live at bars and Asylum Band; and countless other soca stars.restaurants. Among the most popular: sitarist Very popular gospel concerts are staged atMungal Patasar and his Indian-creole fusion larger venues such as the Jean Pierre Complex.music; Orisha chantuelle Ella Andall; the rapso Coming up to Christmas, parang groupsof 3Canal and Maximus Dan; and local fusion take centre stage, playing Spanish-influencedbands 12theband, jointpop, and Orange Sky. seasonal folk songs.TheatreTheatre groups mostly stage local adaptations of metropolitan comedies, and sometimes originallocal work. The Centre for Creative and Festival Arts at UWI, St Augustine stages productions thathave included local and regional classics, calypso musicals, and plays based on local history. Popularvenues for plays include Queen’s Hall in Port of Spain, the CLR James Auditorium at the CiprianiLabour College in Valsayn, Naparima Bowl in San Fernando, and the Central Bank Auditorium andLittle Carib Theatre (both under renovation). There are occasional performances and readings at theTrinidad Theatre Workshop, founded by Nobel laureate Derek Walcott in 1959. For stand-up comedywith a strong local flavour, sample shows by Rachel Price and Learie Joseph.34 A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 35

BEAChES THIS PAGE: Maracas Bay with Tyrico Bay in the background (Martin Farinha) OPPOSITE PAGE: Maracas Bay is the most popular beach in Trinidad (MF) The beaches along Trinidad’s four distinct coastlines may not rival those in Tobago, but they have everything you need for a beach excursion.North coast and Chaguaramas Northeast coastmaracas: the most popular and into the rainforest. The Grande rivière: perfectbeach in the north, with great Marianne River flows into the for nature-lovers. It’s thefood and facilities. A favourite bay, and is great for kayaking. second largest leatherbackfor camping at Easter time. Rental accommodation turtle nesting ground in theHotel nearby available world (March – August). Also good river bathing,Tyrico: if you like the idea of scotland bay: a sheltered kayaking, rainforest hikes.Maracas’ amenities but don’t and secluded bay in Accommodation and facilitieslike crowds, this is a smaller, Chaguaramas only accessible on the beachquieter choice nearby by boat. Calm clear water good for snorkelling and saline (“sally”) bay: clearlas cuevas: good bathing swimming water with good swimming.with small caves at the far end Facilities availableof the beach. Facilities onsite macqueripe bay: small secluded bay at the end balandra bay: goodblanchisseuse: a popular of the Tucker Valley Road for swimming, and evenweekend getaway, with hiking in Chaguaramas. Recently bodysurfing at the roughertrails to the nearby waterfall renovated, good for swimming end36 b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E bEAcHEs 37

Pulling seine on the beach at Mayaro (Martin Farinha) Lifeguards are TIPS typically on duty & TRICKS 9am – 5pm or 10am – 6pm where available, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas Permits are required both for camping and for turtle-watching on the nation’s beaches. Contact a reputable tour guide, your hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arrangements However inviting they may look, it’s best to avoid the beaches in Chaguaramas, Galeota and between Point Lisas and Point Fortin owing to local industrialisationSalybia: popular for surfing (November – April)and for swimming (especially June – September).Fringing reef off eastern end. New beach facilitiesMatura: Rough waters make it inadvisable forswimming, but in March – August it is a popularand important leatherback turtle nesting siteEast coast South & southwestern coastsManzanilla: bordered by distinctive coconut forest (“the Cocal”). Facilities and lifeguards available Quinam: popular south coast beach. Calm wonderful views of southwestern coast and, onat the northern end. Large estuary and lookout where the Nariva River meets the sea. Rental waters, good for swimming. Fine brown sand clear days, neighbouring Venezuelaaccommodation available disappears at high tide. A favourite for family outings on the weekend. Facilities and hiking trails Granville: getting there is half the adventure.Mayaro: glorious stretch of beach, the longest on the island. Popular for long weekends and public Popular on weekends and for Ash Wednesdayholidays. Sands dotted with distinctive “chip chip” shells, which protect small oceanic organisms and Columbus and Cedros bays: both stunning Carnival cool-down partiesare a local delicacy. Late-afternoon fishing ritual of “pulling seine”, bringing in the day’s catch in huge in good weather. Cedros is the widest beach onfishing nets. Rental accommodation available the island at low tide. Quiet fishing villages with For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.38 b e a C h e S D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T H a N N I V E R S a Ry I S S u E beaCheS 39

BuSINESS A meeting-place for the Americas. dTT:Tell us about the origins of the TTCB, and why it was created. the country offers as a business and leisure destination to a captive, influential and diverse audience. crf: The meetings and conference market What facilities are available to has always been a significant niche market for Trinidad. In 2008 there were approximately business travellers and conference 84,000 business and convention stopover organisers in Trinidad (and visitors, accounting for 19 per cent of all Tobago), and how does this make stopovers. Globally, the meetings, incentives, the islands a preferred destination conventions and exhibitions industry or for these people? “business tourism” is one of the highest- yielding inbound-tourism segments due to its Trinidad has the largest and newest conference high per-delegate spend. infrastructure in the English-speaking Caribbean. Many hotels offer conference facilities, including international brands like the Hyatt Regency What exactly is the role the and the Hilton. We have a wide array of TTCB plays in the business and accommodation options and events venues tourism sectors in Trinidad & on offer, including the luxurious new Carlton Tobago? Savannah, the new Hyatt, and the newly X The main focus of the bureau is increasing the number of events, conferences and meetings held in T&T. It is a veritable “one-stop shop” for meeting planners. Ultimately, the goal is boosting business-tourism revenue by ? increasing business travellers’ length of stay, T We have the and the diversity of pre- and post-conference highest buy rates Firstline FX RINIDAD IS activities available. for your foreign already a financial currency! Order and information in advance so it’s In 2009, Trinidad hosted the waiting for you hub of the Y 5th Summit of the Americas when you land! T BU Caribbean and a BES TES gateway to Latin America, with a (SOTA) and the Commonwealth R A high influx of business travellers. heads of Government Meeting The Tourism Development (ChOGM). What were these Call Us Visit Company (TDC) has set up the experiences like? Corner Agra St. Trinidad & Tobago Convention 628-1554 628-1175 & Delhi St. Bureau (TTCB). We spoke to the T&T really has demonstrated its ability to St. James head of the bureau, Canadian-born successfully host large meetings, conferences Mon- Fri Chantel Ross Francois. and conventions. SOTA and CHOGM Email Us 9 am to 5 pm provided a valuable platform to promote what info@firstlinemoney.com ORDER WWW.FIRSTLINEMONEY.COM OPPOSITE PAGE: Eric Williams Financial Complex, Port of Spain40 b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E bUsInEss 41

renovated Hilton, with several What sort of Hyatt, in conjunction with thenew hotel properties on the University of the West Indies. events andway. In Tobago, award-winning We also partnered with theresorts like Coco Reef are ideal conferences is the Local Organising Committeefor corporate meetings and TTCB looking to for the FIFA Under-17 Women’steam-building retreats. attract? World Cup last September. This came after a hectic firstWe have excellent and We’ve embarked on a diverse half of 2010, when the bureaureliable access from major programme of promotional provided support to severalinternational hubs; sound activities aimed at attracting conferences and events. Wephysical infrastructure; state- a range of events, from believe Trinidad & Tobago isof-the-art telecommunications; sporting events to religious perfectly positioned to be theattractive leisure activities; an conferences and literary meetings and conventionsexciting and diverse culture; seminars. In November 2010, centre for not just thefestivals throughout the for example, we hosted the Caribbean, but for North,year; and warm, welcoming, International Conference on South and Central Americatalented people! Caribbean Literature at the as well.42 b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

OPPOSITE PAGE: LaToya Woods, Miss Universe Trinidad & Tobago 2010, enjoys mas on the road in Tribe’s Carnival band (Keown Thomas) BELOW: Roland St George’s costume “Fantasma”, Dimanche Gras 2010 (Atiba Williams) CARNIvAL You can party non-stop for weeks, dance in the streets for two whole days, meet a monster three storeys high having a rest by the side of the road. At Carnival time, anything can happen.T RINIDAD is the source. From On your marks… Carnival in Trinidad After Christmas, soca artists start churning out their “power soca”sprang the carnivals in tunes in earnest. Calypso tents, though a dying breed, startNotting hill, Brooklyn, showcasing local bards’ latest barbs, panyards across the countryWashington, DC, Atlanta, come alive with musicians learning their notes for the PanoramaToronto, Miami, and competition, and the mas camps are abuzz with wirebenders,dozens of other cities bead- and feather-stickers, costume designers, and hordes ofwhere West Indians gather. would-be masqueraders registering for their sections (in betweenThey may be larger, but running to the gym to get in shape). By the week before Carnival,their roots are Trinidadian. the “fete jumbies” have attended almost every party for months.44 c A r n I V A l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E c A r n I VA l 45

Panorama 2010 finals (Stephen Broadbridge) Go…! The reign of the “merry monarch” begins with J’Ouvert at 4am on Monday. The huge music trucks and hordes of people in outrageous costumes or old clothes drench each other in mud, oil, paint, chocolate, as they let loose across the island. Stained and exhausted, the most determined return to the streets towards midday for the first phase of the masquerade. Others try to crash the all-inclusive bands or watch the prancing masqueraders high on music, freedom and various legal and not-so-legal substances. In the hills of Paramin, intimidating blue devils swarm over the winding mountain roads to demand that you “pay de devil”. Tuesday is the real day of colour and creativity, as the bands in their full regalia take over the streets from early morning to long after sunset. Some of the costumes are carefully conceived and lovingly made elements of that year’s theme; others are varieties of bikinis, beads and feathers à la Rio de Janeiro (complete with borderline nudity). By dark, everyone has a good idea who the Band of the Year and Road March (the most popular soca tune) titles will go to. But few can think of anything but skipping work or school and crawling onto a beach come Wednesday. wHErE doEs until next cArnIVAl year… comE from Carnival literally means “farewell to the Neither Carnival Monday or flesh”. Trinidad’s Carnival Tuesday is a public holiday. began in the 1780s, when Nor is Ash Wednesday. But European Catholic rituals of masked carnal we’ve never heard of anyone abandon before Lent gradually merged with getting fired for absenteeismGet set… West African masking festivals and street or dereliction of duty. The theatre. The British colonial government beach or the river, eitherOn Carnival Friday, moko jumbies, stickfighters, flambeaux-carriers, bats, jab-jabs, Dames tried to repress the festival and its traditions before or after the CatholicsLorraines and more re-enact the Canboulay Riots in the streets of Port of Spain, and the (stickfighting, drumming, calypso, the steelpan, receive ashes on their“traditional mas characters” do battle. When the sun sets and the fireworks light up the sky, it’s African religions), without success. In the 20th foreheads, is the recognisedtime for the spectacular International Soca Monarch contest, and hopeful soca artists from around century, corporate and government interests way to spend Wednesday,the world compete for the Groovy Soca (laid-back, tuneful soca ballads and hooks, often great for sought to impose order on the festival through resting the aching limbs,J’Ouvert) and Power Soca (frenetic, rabble-rousing party tunes) titles. competitions and committees; but Carnival cooling the sting of sunburn, remains an organism that, at its core, exists to sleeping off the exhaustion ...Steelbands are the focus on Saturday night, as the best bands large and small vie for the subvert authority. and dreaming of doing it allchampionship and bragging rights for the next year. The nation’s finest calypsonians and huge over again.hand-built costumes take the stage to bid for the Carnival King and Queen and Calypso Monarchtitles at the Dimanche Gras show on Sunday night. For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.46 c A r n I V A l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E c A r n I VA l 47

TAlk lIkE An EXPErT EATING OuT So many ethnicities, so many cultures: no wonder Trinidad’s food is so fascinating. Restaurants Trinidad is well served these days by fine-dining restaurants. The options include Asian, creole, European, Middle Eastern, calypso: indigenous Pretty mas: the opposite steelpan: developed Jamaican, Japanese and Trinidadian music with of J’Ouvert anarchy: in Trinidad during American cuisine, complete roots in West African mass-produced World War II, the with elegant décor and songs of praise and costumes, designed only non-electronic ambient music. On Ariapita mockery to enact a theme or instrument invented in Avenue and environs, in display the body, often the 20th century. Began Woodbrook, lines of trendy J’ouvert: the anarchic consisting of skimpy as single “ping pongs” restaurants and bars will opening phase of bikinis, feathers, and hung around the neck entertain you all evening. Most Carnival, starting in the beads playing just a few notes, restaurants offer vegetarian wee hours of Monday now covering the full options. Much of the best morning road march: the song western scale in bands “local” food is based on skilful played most often by topping 100 players and adventurous fusion. ol’ mas: the satire music bands at judging Two of our favourites are and slapstick humour points Traditional mas: Angelo’s and Veni Mangé in associated with J’Ouvert Carnival “characters” Woodbrook, which celebrates and its crazy costuming soca: fast-paced, high- like the ominous its 30th anniversary this year. energy offspring of Midnight Robber, Playing mas: calypso, pioneered by talkative Pierrot masquerading, Ras Shorty I (Garfield Grenade, and gender- “jumping” with a Blackman) in the bending Dames Street snacks Carnival band, usually 70s, fusing African Lorraines. Best viewed in costume (up to and Indian sounds. at traditional character Street vendors operate throughout the populated areas of the island, and everyone has a favourite. uS$700 “all-inclusive”). Trinidad’s pop music, parades, viey La Cou Each vendor should display a food badge. Make sure to try: Some bands sell out it has absorbed R&B, (two Sundays before from September, but dancehall, hip-hop, Carnival) and on doubles: the food of choice for breakfast or bake and shark: thick slices of fried shark returns can often be reggaetón, house music Carnival Friday in Port after a long night of partying. It consists of curried between fried bread that’s slightly crisp outside grabbed last-minute and other influences of Spain chickpeas packed between two pieces of barra and light inside. It’s the signature snack at (flat fried bread), and topped with sweet and Maracas Bay, on the north coast, where after peppery sauces a swim in the warm water you join the linesABOVE: JW & Blaze performing at Soca Monarch 2010 (Keown Thomas) OPPOSITE PAGE: Pan-seared lamb, potato lollipop, garlic-scented spinachand beetroot jam48 c A r n I V A l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E E AT I n G o U T 49

buljol: well seasoned shredded at the vendors’ booths to saltfish, mixed with onions, oTHEr locAl buy this Trinidad favourite. tomatoes and pimento peppers fAVoUrITEs You can garnish with various sautéed in olive oil, often served condiments, and salad. Try with coconut bake the pineapple and chadon beni (aka “shadow beni”) callaloo: soup made from dasheen leaves, coconut milk, ochroes and pumpkin, and sometimes salted Pholourie: seasoned flour meat or crab and split-peas fritters with chutney dipping sauce Pastelle: seasoned meat, fish, lentils or soya with raisins, olives and capers, encased in cornmeal and Aloo pie (a spicy mashed steamed in banana leaves potato filling in between fried elongated puffy bread) and Pelau: one-pot dish of rice, pigeon peas and meat corn soup (a savoury blend of split peas, corn on the souse: boiled pork, served cold in a salty sauce with cob, ground provisions and lime, cucumber, pepper and onion slices flour dumplings, mixed in a flavourful broth) are quick sorrel: popular at Christmas time, this deep red snacks found everywhere drink is made from the sorrel fruitStew beef, a delicious creole dish, served with vegetable rice and macaroni pie50 E A T I n G o U T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E E AT I n G o U T 51

drinks: try coconut water around the ThE ENvIRONMENT Savannah, straight from the nut; local fruit juices; and sno-cone (shaved ice drenched in syrups and condensed milk) Quick and affordable meals You can find something new every day. Roti shops serve roti and paratha with irresistible curries, and there are many small outlets serving Chinese food, creole food, Lebanese food and more. For an interesting experience try Les Femmes du Chalet (the Breakfast Shed), where several vendors serve local food all day on the Port of Spain waterfront. For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com. Hundreds of bird and butterfly species, hiking and biking paths, mountain trails, caves, wetlands, secluded waterfalls with cooling plunge pools, dense rainforest ... Trinidad really is a nature-lover’s paradise. Birding Asa wright nature centre: scarlet ibis, the national bird, bird-watching opportunities, one of Trinidad’s best-known flying through the dusk into the or book into the onsite Petrea birding locations, near Arima, wetland to roost, like splashes Place for the night. and a marvellous base for of red paint across the evening exploring the life of the sky. Boat tours should be nariva swamp & bush Northern Range, especially its booked in advance. bush sanctuary: a rich variety of birds. The centre recognised “wetland of has several nature trails, and a Pointe-à-Pierre wild fowl international importance”. In breeding oilbird colony on its Trust: this 25-hectare wildlife the dry season, you can walk grounds. reserve is located on the across much of the swamp, grounds of the Petrotrin but in the wet season, its caroni swamp & bird refinery near San Fernando. 200 bird species are viewed sanctuary: an afternoon Visit for a day (advance from kayaks and fishing boats boat tour among muscular bookings required), taking (contact a good tour company mangroves brings you to the advantage of the trails and or guide). ABOVE: Capuchin monkey (Genevieve Carpentier)52 E A T I n G o U T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E EnVIronmEnT 53

hiking Trinidad takes hiking enthusiasts through tropical rainforests, into caves and beneath waterfalls. On the northwest peninsula, chaguaramas has great trails for novices and experienced hikers. From the Chaguaramas Golf Course, a brief hikeTurtles through the forest ends in the plunge pool of the 76-metreFrom March to September each year, hundreds of leatherback Edith falls. A longer trail upturtles lay their eggs on the Matura and Grande Rivière beaches the covigne river Gorgeand others along the island’s northeast coast. They heave passes over rocks, throughthemselves out of the water, dig their nests and lay their eggs in the shallow pools and up riversand. Some weeks later you might see hatchlings as they venture cascades.into the ocean for the first time. Just take care not to touch ordisturb them, or worse yet take pictures with a flash. Permits are Trinidad’s second highest peak,required to access these beaches during nesting season. El Tucuche, is a favourite with caribbean discovery Tours: Stephen Broadbridge, owner of CDT, has been in the business for over a fEATUrEd decade. CDT offers custom-designed nature and Eco-ToUr cultural itineraries with expert guiding though forested oPErATors mountains, rivers, waterfalls, secluded beaches, wetlands and villages. The clientele includes eco-adventure and family vacationers, bird-watchers, scientists, university faculties, and film and television crews. Package itineraries (including local transportation and accommodation) are available. Contact: (868) 624-7281/620-1989 • www.caribbeandiscoverytours.com. See our interview with Stephen on the Discover website at www.discovertnt.com. T&T sightseeing Tours: Charles Carvalho’s TTST has been in business since 1984, and offers easy sightseeing tours, city tours, Tobago day tours, historical tours, golf trips, and nature tours including mild to strenuous hikes, boat tours, diving trips, and turtle-watching and birding. It can arrange hotel reservations, car rentals, aircraft charter, conferencing, and cultural itineraries. Contact: (868) 628-1051 • www.trintours.com OPPOSITE PAGE: Grande Rivière beach is a successful protected nesting area for the giant leatherback turtles where you can see hundreds of turtles in one night. In this photo one turtle is laying and the closer one covering her nest (Marcus Gomez) ABOVE: The cold fresh waters of the Paria Waterfall are only a two-and-a-half-hour hike from Blanchisseuse (MG)54 E n V I r o n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 55

hardcore hikers. Beginning in the Maracas-St Joseph valley, they encounter a variety of ecosystems and their inhabitants, including perhaps the indigenous golden tree frog. The summit offers views of the north coast, the central plains and the Southern Range. From there, you can continue hiking to Maracas Bay or return to Maracas-St Joseph. Experienced hikers may enjoy trekking to El cerro del Aripo in the Northern Range, higher than El Tucuche by a few metres, where they might just come face to face with an ocelot (wild cat). The Tamana caves on the eastern edge of the Central Range are home to thousands of bats. The hike to the caves is short but steep, and muddy in the rainy season. From there, you can hike up to the top of mt Tamana, only about 300m, but with rewarding vistas of the in an elaborate system of stalagmites and stalactites in the Northern and Central Ranges. Gasparee caves. The pool at the bottom of the caves is a good way to refresh yourself before the hike back up. The noisy cumaca cave on the southeastern end of the other great hiking spots Nothern Range has a large oilbird colony. The hike takes maracas waterfall: At 91.5m, Trinidad’s highest waterfall. about two hours and the river Paria waterfall: Accessed either from Blanchisseuse or Brasso running through the cave Seco, with deep plunge pool for bathing. makes it slippery. It’s also Arena forest: gentle gradients are ideal for novices, also good for dark, so hikers need to carry bird-watching. flashlights. Limestone weathering on Gasparee Island off OPPOSITE PAGE: Cathedral Rock at Paria Bay, North Coast (Nisha Kong) ABOVE: El Tucuche Chaguaramas has resulted (936m) in Trinidad’s Northern Range, the second highest point on the island56 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E EnVIronmEnT 57

BELOW: Kayaking in Chaguaramas OPPOSITE PAGE: Enjoying a snocone during Phagwa celebrations at the Aranguez Savannah (Brian Kinzie) Water adventures FESTIvALS kayaking is a popular sport in Trinidad. Kayaks Trinidadians love to celebrate. And the island’s religious can be rented from the Kayak Centre in Williams and cultural diversity means that they don’t have Bay, Chaguaramas; the Salybia Water Sports to look very hard to find a reason for celebrating and Recreation Centre offers guided kayaking life, freedom and time off work. tours up the Salybia River and hikes to the Matura waterfall. The Nariva Swamp in the southeast and Blanchisseuse on the north coast are other popular kayaking spots. Reputable tour guides organise kayaking expeditions anywhere in the country. Trinidad’s small but growing surfer population spends weekends in the northeastern coastal village of Sans Souci. Surfing is also good at Balandra, Toco and Salybia in the northeast and Maracas and Blanchisseuse in the north. kite- surfing is increasingly popular on the south TIPs coast beaches of Mayaro, Moruga and Los Iros. & TrIcks without a reputable, turtles, as this can cause certified guide: it’s easy them severe distress Permits are needed to get lost or have an for some locations and accident make sure that any activities (like camping guide or tour company and turtle-watching) when turtle-watching, you choose is a member of do not use flash the T&T Incoming Tour don’t attempt a long photography, touch or Operators Association cArnIVAl (February/ which banned the activities abir. Especially popular hike or difficult trail otherwise disturb nesting (www.ttitoa.com) March, moveable) of this Afro/Christian is the Children’s Phagwa The island’s signature religion. celebration hosted each year festival kicks off the at the Tunapuna hinduFor more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com. calendar with fêtes, music, PHAGwA (March, School. dance and a two-day parade moveable) of bands in towns across Phagwa, or holi, is lA dIVInA PAsTorA the island. the hindu festival that (second Sunday after welcomes the arrival of Easter) sPIrITUAl (sHoUTEr) spring in India. Traditional hosted in Siparia each bAPTIsT lIbErATIon folksongs called chowtals are year, this is a religious dAY (March 30)* sung to the beat of dholak festival shared, remarkably, Marks the repeal of the drums; celebrants douse by Roman Catholics and colonial-era Shouter each another in coloured hindus. A wooden statue, Prohibition Ordinance, vegetable dyes known as decorated with flowers and58 E n V I r o n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E f E s T I VA l s 59

dressed in white, is processed through the rEd EArTH Eco ArTs fEsTIVAlstreets. For the Catholics, who keep the (June, moveable)statue in their local church, she is a black hosted at natural oases like Chaguaramasvirgin Mary, “the Divine Shepherdess”; for and Blanchisseuse, this festival raiseshindus, she is Siparee Kay Mai. awareness through environmental and arts events. It is held each year around World HosAY (moveable) Environment Day (June 5).This Muslim festival commemorates thedeath of hussein, the grandson of the wE bEAT fEsTIVAl (June, moveable)Prophet Mohammed. It lasts for three An annual festival centred in St James,nights, culminating in a procession of Port of Spain, featuring vintage kaisoexquisitely made tadjahs, depicting the tomb (calypso), talent shows, a pan explosion andof hussein, to the thunder of tassa drums. a steelband parade at the end.St James and Cedros are major centres ofthe festival, with smaller celebrations around EmAncIPATIon dAY (August 1)*the island. Celebrated on August 1 to commemorate the abolition of slavery in 1838. The focus TrInIdAd & TobAGo fAsHIon is the Lidj Yasu Omowale EmancipationwEEk (May, moveable) village in Port of Spain, which featuresFounded in 2008; showcases talented local lectures, exhibitions of African art, a tradeand regional designers and models, both exposition and live entertainment. There isestablished and emerging. also a street procession, kanboulé/Canboulay, through the streets of Port of Spain. IndIAn ArrIVAl dAY (May 30)*Commemorates the arrival of the first sAnTA rosA fEsTIVAl (August)Indian labourers in Trinidad on the Fatel A month-long Amerindian/CatholicRazak in 1845. More than 140,000 Indians festival commemorating the death of Santawere recruited over the next 70 years to Rosa de Lima, the Roman Catholic patronwork Trinidad’s plantations after African saint of the New World. It begins withemancipation left them without labour. the firing of a cannon on August 1 fromCommunities re-enact the arrival of this Calvary hill in Arima, and ends on thefirst group on beaches around the country, Sunday following the feast day of Santaand outstanding members of Trinidad’s Rosa (August 23). A statue of the saint isIndian community are rewarded for their borne through the streets of Arima in acontributions. The Divali Nagar site just procession by members of Trinidad’s Cariboutside Chaguanas is a focal point. community, including the Carib Queen, and Roman Catholics. corPUs cHrIsTI (June, moveable)*Roman Catholics process through Port IndEPEndEncE dAY (August 31)*of Spain as a public profession of faith, a Celebrated on August 31, this was thepractice dating back to Spanish colonial day when Trinidad & Tobago became Deyas, small clay lamps containing oil and cotton wicks, are lit during Divali, the Hindu festival of lightsdays. It is a traditional day for planting independent from Britain in 1962. It startscrops, as it is believed that it always rains with a parade of the various protectiveon Corpus Christi. services; later, national awards are given60 f E s T I V A l s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E f E s T I VA l s 61

NIGhTLIFEto deserving citizens, and fireworks light are shared with non-Muslim friendsup the Queen’s Park Savannah. There and neighbours, among whom sawine, aare often also huge concerts and an milk-based vermicelli dessert, is a holidayIndependence Day Cycling Classic. favourite. Trinidadians take their entertainment very, very seriously. TrInIdAd & TobAGo fIlm fEsTIVAl rAmlEElA (moveable) The multitude of bars, nightclubs and lounges, roadside watering(September, moveable) Also known as Ramdilla and Ramlila, this holes, multi-level VIP clubs with dazzling lights and sizzling cocktails,Started in 2006 and now the second largest nine-day festival precedes Divali. Parts of shows exactly how crucial a business partying is to Trinis.of its kind in the region. It showcases hindu scripture about the life of Lord Ram Wdramatic, documentary, short, and are re-enacted with music and dancing.animated films from or about the Caribbean The best-known productions are held in hAT’S YOuR TASTE, SMALL LIMEand Latin America, and hosts workshops Couva and Felicity, in central and south or big fête? Do you have the stamina to Port of Spainand educational programmes. www. Trinidad. hop from lime to club to bar to club totrinidadandtobagofilmfestival.com late-night doubles and back? Whatever. St James, on the western dIVAlI (October/November, moveable)* Trinidad has no shortage of entertainment options. And if edge of Port of Spain, is rEPUblIc dAY (September 24)* This hindu lunar festival honours Mother you just want to enjoy a movie, a play or a concert, you’re fancifully called “the city thatMarks the adoption in 1976 of a new Lakshmi (goddess of light, beauty, riches covered there too. never sleeps” because of itsrepublican constitution, in which a and love) and celebrates the return of Lord thumping music, sidewalkpresident replaced the British monarch Rama from exile: thousands of flickering vendors and straightforward,as the head of state, and the first meeting deyas light his way. Felicity in south down-to-earth drinking dens.of the republican parliament. Events Trinidad is among the most popular venues. Of these, the most famousinclude the hyundai Open Water Classic at In the nine days leading up to Divali, is Smokey and Bunty, aMaracas Bay and the Republic Day Cycling Trinidadians of all ethnicities and religions legendary liming spot whereChallenge and 5K Fun Run. visit the Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas, and regular characters are part hundreds take part in the ritual lighting of of the experience. Hereford’s AmErIndIAn HErITAGE dAY deyas at dusk on the day itself. Bar also has its charms: at(October 14) their infamous Hard WineDescendants of the original Caribbean bEsT VIllAGE (moveable) Thursdays, you can samplepeoples gather from around the region for Ten counties vie for various titles in the their “horny goat weed”.a smoke ceremony and street procession Prime Minister’s Best village trophyin Arima to honour the heritage of Caribs, competition. Action heats up at mid-year, But if your taste runs moreAruacs and other Amerindian ancestors. and culminates in October/November. towards the swanky lounge, villages compete in various aspects of the sports bar and the EId-Ul-fITr (moveable)* folk tradition, including food, storytelling, nightclub, head towardsThe Muslim festival celebrating the end Carnival traditions, dance, music, theatre, neighbouring Woodbrook.of the holy month of Ramadan (the ninth and the selection of a Best village Queen, Cutters and live entertainmentmonth of the Muslim year, according to “La Reine Rivé”. can be found at Sweet Limethe moon), a period of prayer and fasting on Ariapita Avenue, nextfrom dawn to dusk. Morning communal * These festivals are public holidays. Other door to the Ma Pau casino.worship in mosques and large open spaces public holidays: New Year’s Day (January 1), The food, entertainment andthroughout the country is followed by Good Friday and Easter Monday, Labour Day atmosphere of Zanzibar,alms-giving; people visit family and friends, (June 19), Christmas Day and Boxing Day one major road over inexchanging gifts and sweets. Sweets (December 25, 26) MovieTowne, make it a favourite sports bar for groupFor more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com. Ravi Bissambhar performs at Blue Range Cooler Fete (Christopher Daniel)62 f E s T I V A l s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E nIGHTlIfE 63

limes, and you can take in a movie or a showat the on-site cineplex and Fiesta Plaza. On the dancefloor at 51 Degrees (courtesy 51 Degrees/Stuart Patrick)Other night spots on the Ariapita Avenue stripare the Corner Bar, Studio, Coco Lounge, theSqueeze, Shakers, and Satchmo’s. At MoreVino, you will find wines from around the worldand fresh sushi. The neighbouring Drink! WineBar features DJs on Friday nights. La Casa deIbiza, Woodford Café and Trotters serve liveand televised entertainment with the food..Not far away, Aura serves cocktails, wines andcutters in elegant surroundings, and Minglersand Earth provide cosy indoor seating andpicnic-table-style pavement seating alongCipriani Boulevard.But this only scratches the surface. Whatabout the elegant bars and lounges at hotelslike the Kapok (Maraval), the Carlton Savannahand Hilton (St Ann’s), or the Hyatt Regency(Port of Spain waterfront)? And ...If you’ve got your dancing shoes, take themto the 51 Degrees nightclub, where karaokestarts the party off on a Thursday evening.The Zen Nightclub is noted for four levels ofdance floors and bars, including a special VIPlevel. Katalyst has a nightclub interior withan attractive deck outside; likewise, ClubAlchemy has merged the nightclub and loungeexperience. It will cost you $80 – $175 to getinto a nightclub, though most clubs run regularfree-entry and free-drinks promotions.If you still have time and energy, fêtes,parties and live concerts featuring localand international acts might be staged inlarge outdoor venues like the Queen’s ParkSavannah at any time, especially aroundCarnival.64 n I G H T l I f E D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E nIGHTlIfE 65

Further afieldOutside the capital, the Theatre and cinema MovieTowne, at Invaders Bay in Port of Spain and Price Plaza in ShOPPINGfuturistic Space La Nouba Chaguanas, shows many of the latest films, as does Caribbean What to buy, and where to buy it? Can you really go home “handsnightclub in South Trinidad Cinemas 8 at Trincity Mall. MovieTowne hosts the Trinidad & swinging”? Of course not. So read on.hosts popular drinks-inclusive Tobago and European Film Festivals in September and October.Champagne Fridays and The single-screen Globe (Port of Spain) and Palladium (Tunapuna)themed party nights. Privé offer double features and cheap seats.(an exclusive nightclub withguest-list-only entry) and the Theatre, dance and concerts find homes at Queen’s Hall and Where?110 Jazz and Calypso Lounge the newly-completed National Academy for the Performing Artsare also popular. in Port of Spain. The CLR James Auditorium at Cipriani Labour malls: there are five major College in Valsayn has become a popular theatre venue, and the shopping malls in Trinidad, allAlong the East-West Corridor, University of the West Indies in St Augustine a more serious one. comfortably air-conditioned:Trincity Mall’s restaurants and In south Trinidad, the main performance space is Naparima Bowl The Falls at West Mallbars include the very popular in San Fernando. (Westmoorings), Long CircularBootleggers and J Malone’s. Mall (St James), Trincity MallDiscerning limers might also (near the airport), Gulf Citydrift towards Trevor’s Edge in (La Romaine, San Fernando)St Augustine or Sandbaggers For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit and Grand Bazaar (Valsayn).in Trincity. us online at discovertnt.com. Several smaller shopping plazas and mini-malls also house a range of stores. downtown: in every major urban district in Trinidad, shopping is centred on a few key streets. In Port of Spain, the main street is lower Frederick Street, with shopping on surrounding streets. Charlotte Street, to the east of Frederick Street, is renowned for its bargain shopping. In San Fernando, the focus is High Street. items that can be bought this way, but plenty more will probably be added to the list during 2011. online: online shopping is gaining traction in Trinidad, Trade fairs: enterprising Indian businessmen have been with local websites offering doing brisk business in Trinidad recently with trade fairs selling to deliver goods direct to clothing, jewellery, household products, food, and furniture at customers’ doorsteps. So bargain prices. far, shoes, clothing, lingerie and accessories are the main ABOVE: One of the many jewellery stores found in The Falls at Westmall66 n I G H T l I f E D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E sHoPPInG 67

What?Souvenirs: mugs, key chains, T-shirts, figurines, magazines can be found at bookstores. Local elegant smart or casual creations fromCarnival dolls and handcrafted copper trinkets. magazines can often be picked up for free at local designers; cloth from India. Boutiques popular coffee houses, watering holes and catering to the plus-size market have beenMusic: local music is thriving in Trinidad. Apart beauty establishments. cropping up recently.from calypso, soca and chutney, you can findlocal rock, hip-hop, gospel, reggae, choral, and Jewellery: Trinidad’s fine jewellers produce Art & craft: slippers, belts, handbags andIndian music at most music stores. You can some extraordinary pieces. You can buy work accessories can be bought from sidewalkbuy local music online at TrinidadTunes.com. from the studio, and often at galleries, select vendors, at some beaches, or at shopping stores and sidewalk vendors. plazas in downtown Port of Spain. Paintings,DVDs: locally produced television series and sculptures and other artwork can be found atfilms are being packaged for home viewing. Clothing and fabrics: one thing you are sure local art stores and galleries, mainly in PortYou can find original DVDs of these shows at to find in abundance is clothing. Among the of Spain.most music stores. main options: cheap, mass-produced items from China, India and the USA; high-endBooks: local novels, coffee-table books, boutiques with clothing from Europe and the For more information, see the Service Directory at the backnon-fiction, history, biography, poetry and USA; ethnic clothing from India and Africa; of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.Wooden sculptures in the craft market at the Cruise Ship Complex, Port of Spain68 S H O P P I N G D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h a N N I V E R S a Ry I S S u E SHOPPING 69

MADE IN T&T SIGhTSEEING Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, downtown Port of Spain (Mark Lyndersay)O NE OF ThE best-known T-shirt and clothing linesin T&T is Native Spirit,produced by B & Tees. Wecaught up with its co-founder What sort of designs do you use? Each garment has always been individually airbrushed, featuring fun designs that incorporate the coconut trees, tropical animals, the little gingerbread homes, the unique roti, doubles, rum and Carib beer, all the things we love about these islands. The T-shirts wereTracy Kaufmann. really popular, so we purchased screen printing equipment to meet the demand, and numerous What are the origins of thedTT: staff and artists gradually joined B & Tees Ltd,Native Spirit/B&Tees brand? which has now been in existence for almostTk: I met my husband Bruce [Kaufmann] at 25 years.York University in Toronto, where we wereboth studying art. He was airbrushing his own how do you explain that longsurfing designs on T-shirts and selling them tohis friends in Trinidad. I came to visit his family in success?1986. It was my first trip to the Caribbean: the Our customers are people who appreciatelush beauty of the country and the charm of the our quality, long-lasting products, and want tofun-loving people made a huge impression on wear designs that truly reflect their Caribbeanme. It was, and continues to be, a very creatively lifestyle. There’s a really special e-mail ainspiring place to live. That’s really what inspired German tourist to Tobago sent us that sumsour creation of the T-shirt line, and setting up B & it up. He said whenever he wants to escapeTees that year. from the dreary weather of the winter months in Germany, he simply puts on his Native Spirit T-shirt and remembers the warm, specialWhat kind of products do you memories of his holiday in Tobago.offer for locals and visitors?Native Spirit is our unique brand of “Original Art Where can people buy yourto Wear, Inspired by the Caribbean”. It featuresT-shirts, polos, ladies’ tops, kids’ tees, girls’ products?dresses, baby rompers, headwear and beach We wholesale throughout Trinidad & Tobagobags for fun people of all ages. The “Running and retail in Long Circular Mall, Trincity Mall,Man” symbol represents the fun and freedom Gulf City Mall in La Romaine, and Gulf Citythe customer feels when wearing a Native Lowlands Mall in Tobago. You can also buySpirit garment. Our motto is “Live Life ...Wear Native Spirit products online at nativespirittees.Native Spirit!” com.70 s H o P P I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E sIGHTsEEInG 71

Port of SpainThe capital city can be explored in a day. A good starting point is From Independence Square,the International waterfront on Wrightson Road. Grab some head north along Fredericklocal cuisine at the femmes du chalet (the Breakfast Shed), then Street: great for shopping,take a stroll along the boardwalk. You’ll pass office towers and the with several souvenir22-storey Hyatt, where you can enjoy an outdoor art exhibition. shops. On the way, you’ll pass woodford square,Cross Wrightson Road and head along Independence Square surrounded by the Anglicanand the brian lara Promenade. At the western end are the twin Trinity cathedral, the redtowers of government finance and the blue-glassed nicholas House, where parliament sits,Tower. At the eastern end is the Roman Catholic cathedral of and the Hall of Justice.the Immaculate conception, completed in 1836. At the top of Frederick Street, entry to the national museum and Art Gallery is free (allow two hours). Next to the museum, in a style entirely its own, is the national Academy of the Performing Arts (nAPA). The west The Queen’s Park savannah, stretching High on a hill west of the city, fort George, between the city and the off the Western Main Road in St James, is hills, is touted by locals as an important historical landmark. Erected in the world’s largest traffic 1804, it features a signal house, a lock-up, and roundabout. As you travel original cannon. There are breathtaking views round it, you pass on the of the Caroni Plains, the Gulf of Paria, Port of western side a row of Spain, and west Trinidad. seven mansions built in the early 1900s, now dubbed In chaguaramas, book a boat tour “down the Magnificent Seven, de islands”, a series of small islands off though some are in a less the northwest coast. One goes to the than magnificent state of abandoned leper asylum and the lighthouse repair. At the northern edge on chacachacare, another to the caves on of the savannah are the Gaspar Grande. Or enjoy a round of golf at the Emperor Valley Zoo and nine-hole public course, an invigorating kayak the botanical Gardens, a voyage on Williams Bay, or the many hiking popular spot with picnickers and biking trails in this National Heritage Park. and nature enthusiasts. The President’s House is due for OPPOSITE PAGE: Port of Spain International Waterfront Centre (Nisha major renovation in 2011. Kong) ABOVE: Small boats, Chaguaramas (Matik Nicholls)72 s I G H T s E E I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E sIGHTsEEInG 73

Central heading eastThe Temple in the sea at High in the hills of theWaterloo was the stubborn Northern Range, north ofstatement of Indian labourer St Augustine, is the mt stSiewdass Sadhu when he was benedict monastery. Peopledenied permission to build a of all denominations join thesmall temple on the coast. It monks at prayer, enjoy thewas fully completed in 1994 view of Trinidad’s centralto commemorate the 150th plains, explore the forestanniversary of the arrival of trails, and have tea at PaxIndian workers in Trinidad. Guesthouse.The dattatreya Yoga centre In the foothills of theand mandir in Carapichaima Northern Range, about fiveis an ornate Hindu temple miles north of Arouca, isbuilt in the Dravidian style of the picturesque lopinotthe 12th – 14th centuries. On The Temple In the Sea at Waterloo (Nisha Kong) Village. The plantation houseits grounds stands an 85-foot of the old cocoa estate hasmurti (statue) of Hanuman, Near Gran Couva, the la Vega Estate and Garden centre is been restored and turnedwith another smaller murti home to a range of plants and trees, and is popular for picnics, into a museum. During thecontained within it. kayaking, and other outdoor activities. Christmas season, Lopinot is a good place to enjoy live parang bands. Days out in the south cleaver woods in Arima is the site of a reconstructed You may well want to spend a couple of days Amerindian ajoupa (hut) and a in south Trinidad. On the first day, explore display of artefacts. There are downtown San Fernando from King’s Wharf to trails into the forest. Library Corner. On Harris Promenade, you can TOP: The museum at Lopinot Village ABOVE: Christ statue at Mt St Benedict, the oldest monastery in the region, founded in 1912 (Nisha Kong) see the train engine immortalised in the calypso The northeastern tip of “Last Train to San Fernando”. Watch the sun set Trinidad is a rocky headland from the top of san fernando Hill and take in called Galera Point, with an ashore to lay their eggs in the and mayaro, guarded by views of south and central Trinidad, including abandoned lighthouse. Picnic sand. A few months later, their miles of coconut palms, the Central Range. tables await under the almond hatchlings emerge and head are the longest in Trinidad, and sea-grape trees. for the open sea. Be sure to Atlantic breakers thudding Next day, go east to the devil’s woodyard, go with an approved guide, as onto the sand (watch out for an active mud volcano near Princes Town, then From March to August, the permits are required to view rip currents). southwest to La Brea and the Pitch lake, the northeast beaches, especially these endangered animals. largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world. matura and Grande rivière, For more information, see the Service You can take a dip in the warm sulphur pools are nesting grounds for giant Further down the east coast, Directory at the back of this book, andThe Pitch Lake at La Brea, the world’s largest natural asphalt lake (only go with authorised tour guides). leatherback turtles that come the beaches of manzanilla visit us online at discovertnt.com.74 s I G H T s E E I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E sIGHTsEEInG 75

MADE IN T&TC harles Carvalho started T&TSightseeing Toursin 1984, andmade it a successfrom the start.he has been anadvertising partnerof Discover for 16years. Caroni Swamp (CaféMoka)dTT: What for you Trinidad and leave port at 8pm follow anybody – I do what Iare the most popular at night to accommodate tours have to do, and offer the besttours that people can to the sanctuary. But when product I can to the clients.go on? they come with us, they can That’s why we’re still here. leave at 6pm, because wecc: Asa Wright Nature have two or three trips going how should ourCentre and the Caroni Bird into the Bird Sanctuary a day!Sanctuary are my top-selling readers get in touchtours, and my favourites too. with you? Phone, What distinguishesI love the drive to and from e-mail, website?the Pitch Lake. When we T&T Sightseeingfirst started the business, Tours in the market? Any way! My phone linesCaroni Bird Sanctuary was an are open 24 hours a day.afternoon tour, and you had First of all, my minimum group No matter where you are orto reach there for 4pm. But size is one person. I started what time zone you’re in, youit’s a natural environment, so off like that, and it’s something can get us any time. WouldI started selling tours there most tour operators don’t do. you believe one of our onlyin the morning, right through You don’t have to wait for the customer complaints is thatthe day. You may not see the tour to fill up – you can get a we respond to our e-mails tooscarlet ibis return to roost, but one-on-one tour. On top of quickly!you see them feeding during that, it’s value for money. Wethe day through the mangrove. went the extra mile from the www.trintours.com, 868-628-You have the caiman, the beginning, trying to provide 1051 (telephone), 868-622-snakes, the fish and aquatic value for customers. And I 9205 (fax), carvalho@tstt.net.life, and all the other birds. The think that’s been one of our tt (e-mail).cruise ships used to come to successes. I don’t want to76

SPORTS fooTbAll With male and female national teams (Soca and American sprinter Maurice Green. There are 45 clubs nationwide, and is around the islands off Chaguaramas (particularly Chacachacare), on the north Trinidad has a healthy appetite for sport. Warriors and Soca the Southern Games at coast, and in the Gulf of Drive past any recreation ground or open field on an evening Princesses), professional Guaracara Park is one of Paria. Contact a dive shop or weekend and you’ll see people engaged in some type of and secondary school the biggest annual meets. like Rick’s Dive World or sporting activity, most likely football or cricket. leagues, and clubs for The sector is presided over Dive TnT. children of all ages, football by the National Amateur is a truly national sport. Athletics Association. fIsHInG The country hosted the Onshore fishing is popular FIFA under-17 Women’s bAskETbAll in Chaguaramas, Las World Cup, in 2010, and Basketball is played every Cuevas, Galera Point and the men’s equivalent in night on community courts the Nariva river mouth. 2001. Trinidad & Tobago across the island. There Popular boat-fishing spots was the smallest nation are seven zonal leagues include the Chaguaramas ever to qualify for the as well as a national team, islands, where fishermen World Cup, in 2006. The and courts at St Augustine troll for carite, kingfish hasely Crawford and (uWI), Maloney, and cavalli, and bank Marvin Lee stadiums are Pleasantville, Point Fortin, for redfish, salmon and home to Trinidad’s football and Port of Spain (the Jean croakers (grunt). Pelagics team: Pro League matches Pierre Complex). Major such as marlin, sailfish, (April – December) are events are the Super Ten tarpon, kingfish and played there and at the (October – early December) wahoo are prized. Fishing Larry Gomes (Arima), Ato and the National Club tournaments are held year- Boldon (Couva) and Manny Championship. round. Ramjohn (Marabella) stadiums. cYclInG Golf Easter brings out T&T’s Trinidad has three 18- ATHlETIcs cyclists against some of hole courses: Moka’s St T&T has always been a the best in the world at Andrew’s Golf Club, quiet force in track and the annual Easter Grand Trincity’s Millennium field, with athletes winning Prix held at the Arima Lakes, and Petrotrin’s coveted hardware at velodrome. Smaller Pointe-à-Pierre GolfN the Olympics and other events such as the Beacon Club. There are nine-hole ATIONAL SPORTING ORGANISATIONS (NSOs) GOvERN vARIOuS international meets. Its Classic around the Queen’s courses at Brechin Castle, sports and manage the development of athletes. As a result, the country has athletic prowess lies largely Park Savannah and the usine Ste Madeleine and been well represented on the international stage in track and field, football, with sprinters like Richard Southern Games also Chaguaramas. cricket, hockey, boxing, martial arts, swimming, motor sports and shooting. Thompson. Locals get to attract cycling enthusiasts.In 2010, the country’s athletes won 44 medals at the Central America and Caribbean see their stars in action Contact: T&T Cycling HockEYGames, easily breaking the previous 1966 record of 24. at the annual hampton Federation. The hockey year is split Games, held at the hasely in two: the indoor seasonThe sports calendar is packed, with tournaments and meets throughout the year. While Crawford Stadium in Port dIVInG (September – January) andsports tourism is not yet fully developed, many events do include foreign competitors. of Spain: participants Trinidad cannot match the outdoor season (March have included Jamaican Tobago as a diving – August, on Tacarigua’sABOVE: Horse-racing, Santa Rosa Park, Arima (CaféMoka) phenomenon usain Bolt destination, but the best astroturf).78 s P o r T s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E sPorTs 79

BELOW: Cricket on a Sunday at the Queen’s Park Savannah (Christopher Daniel)OPPOSITE PAGE: A participant in a Trinidad & Tobago Rally Club event (Karen Pinheiro) sAIlInG spots. In March, the Surfing Association Trinidad has one of the largest racing stages the CSN Sans Souci, the first event fleets in the Caribbean, and Chaguaramas in the cross-Caribbean Carib Challenge is a major sailing hub. The racing season Cup series, with an international begins around November/December and surf festival in May and national continues till May/June. In the dry season championships in July. winds are stronger (northeast trades, consistent force 4 – 5) than in the wet TEnnIs season (1 – 3). The Sailing Association There are public courts at King George hosts 16 races, including general-handicap v Park in St Clair, and courts for hourly races where any boat can take part. rental at the Trinidad Country Club and some hotels. crIckET sUrfInGPerhaps the only sport to rival football’s popularity, cricket has gained new interest and From November to March, north coast YAcHTInGnew fans thanks to the Twenty/20 format in which the national team is considered a beaches (especially Sans Souci) provide With its well-serviced marinas, boatyardsregional powerhouse, despite its third-place finish in the Caribbean T20 tournament in attractive swells; the rainy season can and sheltered harbours, Chaguaramas is2010. This is also the home of Brian Lara, the former West Indies captain who has held offer strong waves as well. Las Cuevas, the hub of yachting activity in the region.just about every record available to a batsman. Major matches are staged at the beautiful L’Anse Mitan, Grande Rivière, Roughside Immigration and Customs are based atQueen’s Park Oval. The Trinidad & Tobago Cricket Board is the presiding body. and Salybia are among other popular CrewsInn. HorsE rAcInG the Nariva Swamp can only be exploredSanta Rosa Park, Trinidad’s only horse- by kayak. Reputable tour companiesracing track, is equipped with an AmTote and guides provide kayaking trips.betting system. Thoroughbreds pound For sea kayaking, the Kayak Centre inthe dirt nearly every Saturday and public Chaguaramas offers the sheltered watersholiday. There are about 40 race days a of Williams Bay, and provides equipment.year. Big events include the New Yearraces, Derby Day, Diamond Stakes, mArTIAl ArTsMidsummer Classic, President’s Cup, and Kung fu, karate, bushido, aikido, judo, jujitsu,the Santa Rosa Classic. tai chi, kickboxing ... Several dojos teach martial arts styles. Purple Dragon, founded HorsE rIdInG by Professor Don Jacob, teaches Trinidad’sDressage and show jumping instruction only indigenous form of karate, Don Jitsuis available from Bays & Greys Riding Ryu, and operates several schools locally.Centre (Santa Cruz), Jericoe Stables (StAnn’s), and Goodwin heights (the St Ann’s moUnTAIn bIkInG250-acre former coffee and cocoa estate). A popular and challenging sport. TrailsFor trail riding, contact hidden valley in Chaguaramas are ideal for beginners: moTor sPorTs(Chaguaramas) or Bonanza Stud Farm its forest paths and old military and Rally Trinidad is perhaps the biggest motor sports event in T&T, attracting fans and(Arima). agricultural roads are a popular ride, as competitors each March from all over the region. Rally Tobago entered its second year are the Santa Cruz valley and the Matura in 2010. The Trinidad & Tobago Rally Club (TTRC) hosts legs of the Caribbean Speed kAYAkInG to Matelot stretch. For a lung-burster, try Stages Rally Championship. Drag racing is popular, though it is yet to find a permanentRiver kayaking is best in the wet season Blanchisseuse to Morne La Croix Road. base. There are five different rallying locations in south and central Trinidad.when rivers are full. The Yara, Marianne, There are no trail maps, so check with aand Godineau Rivers are rewarding, and guide. For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.80 s P o r T s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E sPorTs 81

Sunset over Pigeon Point Beach TOBAGO82 T o b A G o D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo 83

ACCOMMODATION L uxuRY OR BuDGET? OCEAN OR The Crown Point area, next forest? Beach or infinity pool? villa or host to the airport, pulls more home? Room service or self-catering? Ah, visitors than anywhere Tobago may be small, but it finds room for every sort of hospitality. decisions, decisions. else, and if you like social life, nightlife, and plenty of entertainment options, this is the place to go for. There are both luxury and budget hotels within easy walking distance of the airport, close to Store Bay and Pigeon Point beaches, and an array of restaurants and bars. The further you go from the airport, the quieter Tobago becomes, and the more space there is for specialist pursuits: eco- vacations, hiking, diving, fishing, biking, birding.ABOVE AND OPPOSITE PAGE: Plantation Beach Villas, Black Rock86 T o b A G o : A c c o m m o d A T I o n D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T o b A G o : A c c o m m o d AT I o n 87

Blue Waters Inn, near Tobago’s divingmecca at Speyside, has a dive shop and ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENTnature trails.A villa is something one could easily getused to, and for a group it can be very Given how laid back Tobago is, you might assume that the wholeaffordable. At the luxury end you can island shuts down after sunset.live like royalty, and the simpler, cottage- Nstyle properties are very comfortable too.Spectacular views, architecture and service OT SO. ThEare often part of the deal. entertainment and nightclubBe prepared for higher rates during peak scene isperiods like Christmas, New Year, Easter, growing fast and becomingCarnival and the Jazz Festival in April. But more sophisticated. A nightmost occupancy rates fell during the global on the town in Tobago is arecession, and prices with them, so there serious affair.are steals to be had before the economygets back to normal.For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of Bars & clubsthis book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com. Tobago’s watering holes are friendly, cheerful places, many serving intriguing cocktails, live entertainment, and great food. Happy hours may well get the evening going; among our favourites are the views and ambience of Sundowners Bar, the Pavilion Restaurant, Seahorse Inn, and Blue Waters Inn. Entertainment Tobago’s only cinema is the MovieTowne multiplex at Gulf City Lowlands Mall. The Itsy bitsy folk Theatre presents dinner theatre several Tuesdays during the year. In season, Golden Wooden sculpture at the Kimme Museum, Bethel 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 89

star presents variety showsand the Scouting for Talent MADE IN T&Tcompetition (followed by DJ visual artsmusic and dancing). If thereare no big festivals or events There is a small but impressive visual arts community in Tobago.on, bars, clubs, hotels and The Tobago museum (639-3970) at Fort King George in For a long time, David Maharaj, the ownerrestaurants feature local Scarborough exhibits local art. A number of small galleries and of Bar Code, wanted to open a sports bar inmusic with regular and studios offer art for display or sale, including Trinidad-born Scarborough, Tobago’s capital. he thoughtrotating headliners. Martin and Rachael Superville’s The Art Gallery; Horizons; it could bring new life to the area, celebrate D’Art Yard; Tobago Fine Art; and Café Iguana. Notable Tobago regional culture and talent, and provide artists include Jason Nedd, Jim Armstrong, Kevin Ayoung- “good service, a clean, friendly environment, Julien, Edward Hernandez, David Knott, and Earl Manswell. and excellent food”.Nightclubs German-born luise kimme (639-0257, www.luisekimme.com, Anyone who goes to Bar Code now can seebar code: technically not bookings required) displays her dramatic, larger-than-life-sized that Maharaj was on to something. Sportsa club but a sports bar, with wood and bronze sculptures depicting local characters at her bars were in short supply; the presenttwo pool tables and plenty of atmospheric gallery/atelier (The Castle) location was “literally just rubble and dustseating, some of it open-air. in Bethel. … a construction site.” But the landlordsTV screens might be running were willing, and in 1999 the idea insport highlights, Bar Code Maharaj’s head began to take shape in theevents, or live performances Sundays are a no-contest. real world. Bar Code opened on October 22,from the bar. The food is truly All roads lead to Buccoo and sUndAY 2000. Maharaj was 25. scHoolvaried for a late-night spot, its famous Sunday Schoolespecially when washed street party. Each weekend, A decade later, Bar Code resounds with socadown with Bar Code signature revellers dance their way into the music. It stages Carnival shows and hostsdrinks. new week with this two-act drama top artists like Machel Montano, Rupee, that every visitor should experience. From 9pm to Problem Child, and Alison hinds. AccordingThe G-spot: the latest 11pm, the action is mainly for visitors, with steelpan to Maharaj, its burgers and jerk wings areaddition to the night scene music from the Buccaneers and dozens of craft, still rated the best on the island.is in Crown Point, on three food and even gambling stalls filling the street andlevels. Partying below; food surroundings. From 11pm, the local crowd begins he seems surprised to have lasted so long,and drink, and the pool area; to swell and DJ music continues in the beach facility and to have learned so much along the way.on the middle, entry level; and neighbouring hendrix Original Sunday School he talks a lot about his business partner,and a VIP lounge above, until the party dies out. Make sure you’ve got plenty Alicia, who has been with Bar Code sincewith white voile curtains and of energy: on a good night that can mean 5am. opening day, originally as an employee.couches in each section. “Everywhere along the way,” Maharaj says, The annual Great Fete Weekend in July is a “she has been the backbone.”The shade: perhaps the six-night party at Club Pigeon Point, with DJs,undisputed champion of sound systems and live entertainment. The One thing has made all the difference, henightclubs in Tobago, this is Jazz Experience in April presents great live thinks: “Pride. A Tobagonian, running andthe only open-air venue on entertainment in Plymouth, and has the whole island owning a business, serving the community,the island. DJs play soca, buzzing with parties, barbecues and excitement. giving them options, exposing them todancehall and hip hop, with a standards that were not there before,sprinkling of alternative, rock For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us and contributing to the progress ofand reggae during the night. online at discovertnt.com. entertainment in Tobago.”90 T o b A G o : A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T o b A G o : A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 91

BEAChES If you find a single beach in Tobago that doesn’t tempt you to take a quick dip or a soak in the sun, please tell us about it. E vEN SO, certain beaches really stand out. We’ve rated six of our favourites for accessibility, cleanliness, facilities (like toilets and changing rooms), onsite refreshments (bars, restaurants, vendors), safety, ambience, and the quality of the swimming. PIGEon PoInT (4.7/5) Location: Crown Point This is probably Tobago’s most famous beach. There’s a little journey to get there (which is fine if you have a vehicle, or don’t mind a little walk), and an entry fee (TT$18), but you’re sure to recognise the distinctive cabana at the end of the jetty. The beach scores high for accessibility, cleanliness, amenities, safety, and clear shallow water: swimming and snorkelling are a dream. Food and beverage vendors OPPOSITE PAGE: Turtle Beach, Black Rock ABOVE: The calm waters of Pigeon Point Beach on the leeward side of the island are on hand; Renmar’s, the beach bar, has a surprisingly Buccoo Reef and the Nylon against them because of their large range of drinks and Pool, and watersports are environmental impact.) There cocktails. Glass-bottom well catered for. (While jet- are toilets and showers, and boats leave from here to skis are popular, we advise lifeguards on duty.92 T o b A G o : b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: bEAcHEs 93

Store Bay, Crown Point sTorE bAY (4.25/5)Location: Crown Point lifeguardsTobago’s second most popular TIPs are typicallybeach, after Pigeon Point, near & TrIcks on duty 9am –hotels and the airport. The 5pm or 10amwater is good for swimming, – 6pm whereand there are lifeguards, available, but notshowers and toilets (small at all beaches. Redfee), and food and beverage flags indicate unsafevendors. The beach experience bathing areashere ranks high for accessibility,cleanliness, amenities, Permits aresafety, and idyllic water. The required both forbeach is usually busy, and camping and forthe one disadvantage could turtle-watchingbe the number of vendors on the nation’s(for beach chairs, reef tours, beaches. Contactjewellery, etc.). But their zeal a reputable tourcan generally be neutralised guide, your hotel,by a friendly “no thanks”. or the ForestryBuccoo Reef and Nylon Pool Division to makeglass-bottom boat tours leave arrangements.from here through the earlyafternoon. cAnoE bAY (3.5/5) powdery sand, hugged by lush and cleanliness, but if you need other top Tobago beachesLocation: Cove Estate, vegetation and hidden from on-site amenities like food orLowlands the main road – you could changing rooms, you’ll need mt Irvine: great swimming, snorkelling, amenities, fresh bread made in traditional dirtThis is a private beach with easily find yourself one of just to look elsewhere or bring your watersports and amenities, with a fish market ovens, with a nearby waterfall and seine fishingan entrance fee of TT$12. It is a few people there. Great own supplies. on site in the afternoonone of the calmest beaches snorkelling, and a restaurant stonehaven bay: good swimming and Parlatuvier bay: good facilities, snorkelling,in Tobago, perfect for children serving local food. bAck bAY (2.5/5) snorkelling. Turtles nest here in season fish market and a chance to see magnificentsince there are practically no Location: near Plymouth, Great courland bay: good swimming, with frigatebirdsconcerns about aggressive bloodY bAY (3/5) accessed via a cliffside trail kayaks and hobie cats for hire. Turtles nest Pirate’s bay, charlotteville: 144 steps leadtides or currents. Changing Location: west coast, This is a beautiful and often here in season down to this beautiful, pink-sand beach, withfacilities are available, and a between Parlatuvier and deserted beach. There’s Arnos Vale bay: perhaps Tobago’s best calm water and good swimming/snorkellingbar which also provides food. L’Anse Fourmi even a little pool that nature snorkelling, with a reef just offshore and the speyside: good snorkelling, glass-bottom Don’t let the name fool you: this seems to have made just beautiful old waterwheel nearby boat trips to Angel Reef, Goat Island and Little EnGlIsHmAn’s bAY is one of the most unspoilt and for two, where water flows culloden bay: good for snorkelling (not so Tobago, and a hub of diving activity. Enjoy(3.5/5) peaceful beaches in Tobago. in and out with the tide. It much for swimming). Nearby Footprints Eco facilities at nearby Jemma’s Treehouse KitchenLocation: west coast, off The golden sand, clear blue has great natural beauty and Resort offers birding trails as well as a bar and blue waters beach: good snorkelling,Northside Road water and the odd fisherman placidity, but because of the facilities swimming and facilities. Glass-bottom boatThis quiet secluded beach may be your only company. isolation, with no amenities or castara bay: good swimming, facilities and tours leave from the pieris one of Tobago’s best-kept This quiet, no-frills beach lifeguards, we strongly advisesecrets: half a mile or so of scores for its great swimming you to go with a group. For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.94 T o b A G o : b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: bEAcHEs 95

EATING OuT The food is one thing, the setting is another: luckily no one has to choose which is the more gratifying. T OBAGO hAS SOME FINE AND MEMORABLE RESTAuRANTS, which somehow manage to combine elegance and homeliness. Some are comfortably air-conditioned; at others you can enjoy the warm island breeze and perhaps an ocean or garden view from the patio or the bar. Menus are remarkably varied, from top-class Italian to freshly-caught lobster. Some of the best kitchens blend international cuisine with island variations and flavours. Local food Tobago Don’t confine yourself to the restaurants, excellent as they may be, specialities or even the fast-food chains. Across the island you will find small People will tell you that you roadside eateries which serve home-cooked creole food and fresh certainly can’t leave Tobago fruit juices. At Store Bay, ten minutes’ walk from the airport, six without tasting curried crab small kiosks sell a classic range of local favourites. It would be a and dumplings. They’re right. shame to leave Tobago without remembering its authentic taste. This is Tobago’s signature dish: filling, tasty, lavish and irresistible. Seafood is always a good option in Tobago, as fresh catch is close at hand. “Blue food” is the name given to ground provisions and root vegetables: you will often find it used as a staple. Among Tobago’s other treats are sugar cake (a sweet, colourful snack made from grated coconut and sugar) and bene balls. Bene is a west African word for sesame seeds, which, when mixed with molasses, produce a hard and delicious sweet that comes in bricks and sticks as well. For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.ABOVE: Curried crab and dumpling OPPOSITE PAGE: Miss Jean’s menu, Store Bay96 T o b A G o : E A T T I n G o U T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T o b A G o : E AT T I n G o U T 97

ECO-ADvENTuRE Tobago’s natural environment is one of the On land Adventure nature reserve: best reasons for a visit. this 12-acre estate in Arnos Vale shelters wild birds, and its prolific flora attract many species of butterflies. Established organic orchards include mango and citrus. Grafton caledonia wildlife bird sanctuary: formerly A world of a cocoa plantation, now a The Buccoo Reef and Bon dIVErsITY nature centre complete with Accord Lagoon Complex winding trails frequented by is Tobago’s first Ramsar the “king of the woods”, the Site, a wetland of international motmot. Twice-daily feedings importance; Buccoo Reef has been a guarantee excellent bird protected marine park since 1973. The island’s sightings. abundant flora and fauna include: • 210 recorded bird species offshore islands: • 133 species of butterflies (including the superlative places for bird- impressive blue emperor) watching. Imposing frigate • 25 species of snake (none of them poisonous) birds circle high above the • 17 species of bats ocean, and roost on St Giles. • 14 species of frog Rare red-billed tropicbirds • 12 species of mammals nest on Little Tobago from • 5 species of marine turtles (including the December – July. endangered giant leatherback) • 6 species of lizard. Trails: hiking, mountain biking and horseback trails Turtle-watching: one of Tobago’s best-known nature activities T carry you into the heart of is watching the ancient nesting ritual of the sea turtles (March- Tobago. The Main Ridge August). Although five species of marine turtle can be found OBAGO has been forest is easily accessibly by in Tobago, the most common are the giant leatherback, voted the world’s the Gilpin and Niplig trails. hawksbill and green. All (and their eggs) are legally protected. top eco-tourism Biking enthusiasts can opt for Leatherbacks come ashore primarily in Black Rock, while the destination (World Travel Awards, easy trails, like those passing hawksbills prefer the coral reefs of the northeast. Greens can be 2003). Like Trinidad, Tobago was once part of through the boardwalk around found near seagrass beds around the island. the South American mainland, and has inherited the Lowlands area, or extreme tremendous biodiversity concentrated in a small mountain trails that can be waterfalls: experienced guides can lead you through the area and easily accessible. here are some of our reached only on foot. All offer rainforest to hidden waterfalls, or to the three-tiered Argyle Falls favourite places and activities. spectacular views. Guides are near Roxborough, which is part of the essential Tobago circuit. recommended and in some ABOVE: A green iguana on ixora flowers (Giancarlo Lalsingh) OPPOSITE PAGE: A critically places required. endangered leatherback hatchling makes its way to the sea (GL)98 T o b A G o : E c o - A d V E n T U r E D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: Eco-AdVEnTUrE 99

THIS PAGE: Kingfisher On waterOPPOSITE PAGE: Blue-headedwrasse, Mt Irvine reef (Giancarlo diving & snorkelling:Lalsingh) available around the island for every level of expertise. Drift snorkelling and diving in coastal areas minimises damage to the living reefs. In addition to the tropical fish, from November – June huge manta rays glide silently alongside the undersea visitor. Make sure your chosen dive TIPs & operator is a member of the TrIcks Association of Tobago Dive Operators. Permits are needed for some locations and activities (like camping Game fishing: for those and turtle-watching): ask your tour operator who prefer catching fish to swimming alongside them, the don’t attempt a long hike or difficult trail without T&T Game Fishing Association a reputable, certified guide: it’s easy to get lost or runs multiple fishing have an accident tournaments. Blue marlin over 800lb have been caught when turtle-watching, do not use flash here. Environmentally sound photography, touch or otherwise disturb nesting techniques are employed: turtles, as this can cause them severe distress non-champion-sized catches are tagged and returned to make sure that any guide or tour company you the sea. Tobago’s peak fishing choose is properly certified. season is November – May. Glass-bottom boat tours: eternally popular, suitable for other octocorals. Speyside Grange Bay are exceptional; all ages and fitness levels, and visitors have a chance to see and the wind is just right for revealing the beauty of worlds the world’s largest brain coral. kite surfing at Little Rockly beneath the surface without Bay. Chartered boats sail up even getting you wet. A tour watersports: enjoy kite the coast serving refreshments of Buccoo Reef includes the surfing, kayaking, and jet in a wonderful Caribbean intriguingly named Nylon Pool, skiing? Pigeon Point, Mt atmosphere. We advise and the other-worldly Coral Irvine and Charlotteville are against jet ski use, though, Gardens replete with staghorn popular spots. For traditional owing to the environmental and star coral, sea fans and surfboarding, Mt Irvine and impact. For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.100 T o b A G o : E c o - A d V E n T U r E D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: Eco-AdVEnTUrE 101

FESTIvALS There’s scarcely a month in Tobago without a festival of some kind. These are some of our favourites. TobAGo HErITAGE fEsTIVAlThe Tobago heritage Festival, started in 1987, is dedicated to preserving the culturaltraditions of the people of the island. Aside from the opening and closing nights, theproductions take you to different villages for dances, food, music, storytelling and othertraditions. Each year has its own theme. Among regular productions are the Ole TimeTobago Wedding in Moriah, Folk Tales and Superstitions in Golden Lane and Les Coteaux,and Games We used to Play. The festival runs from mid-July – August 1. bUccoo GoAT & crAb rAcInG fEsTIVAl & mT PlEAsAnT GoAT rAcEStarted almost 80 years ago, goat racing was a “regular folks” response to the colonial class’spastime of racing thoroughbred horses in Trinidad. The event is held on Easter Mondayand Tuesday at Mt Pleasant and Buccoo, the main location. All the trappings of horseracing are there – stables, trainers, live commentators – except that the “jockeys” have to runalongside their steeds. And as for the crabs ...Tobago Heritage Festival, Moriah wedding procession dancing in the street (CaféMoka)102 T o b A G o : f E s T I V A l s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

A drummer heats his bongo drumskin in the flames at the Tobago Heritage Festival (CaféMoka) cArnIVAl TobAGo blUE food fEsTIVAlTobago’s Carnival season coincides with The Blue Food Festival celebrates the useTrinidad’s, but is even more laid back. of local root crops in food preparation,It focuses more on the theatrical and especially dasheen. “Blue food” coversfolk elements, especially traditional mud any root crop from the ground, like sweetmas (said to be therapeutic for the skin), potato, cassava, or yam. Why blue? Somewhich of course necessitates an ocean varieties of dasheen can turn blue orswim afterwards. The Tobago house of indigo when cooked, so the expressionAssembly’s Inter-department Queen and has become a catchall for root crops inCalypso Show, and the Roxborough Afro- general. The event is hosted by the villageQueen and Windward Calypso Show are councils of Bloody Bay, L’Anse Fourmi andstaple seasonal events. Parlatuvier in early to mid-October, in the lead up to National Tourism Week. A blue- GrEAT fêTE & cArIb GrEAT rAcE food cooking competition is the festivalThe Great Race (August) draws highlight: skilled cooks compete to createTrinidadians to Tobago in droves. First fine dishes from dasheen. Some of theseheld in 1969, this 84-mile speedboat race might surprise you: the entire dasheenfrom Port of Spain to Tobago’s Crown plant is used to make bread, cookies,Point ends in the ultimate beach party lasagne, even ice cream. A cultural show,(which starts well before the boats reach a mini-zoo and sometimes a queen showthe finish line and ends in the wee hours of entertain the crowd.the next morning). The race starts early inthe morning, and the first boats normally TobAGo cUlInArY fEsTIVAlarrive on the beach at about 9am. Originally Produced each May by the Tourismtied to the Great Race festivities, Tobago’s Department of the ThA, this freeGreat Fête Weekend (July/August) is now international event at Pigeon Point invitesa separate five-day beach party at Store Bay, you to sample dishes from around the world,Pigeon Point and Mt Irvine. especially those native to Tobago. HArVEsT fEsTIVAls & TobAGo JAZZ EXPErIEncEfIsHErmAn’s fEsTIVAls This is a reincarnation of the Tobago Jazzharvest festivals were originally village Festival, now held at Pigeon Point heritagethanksgivings for the produce of the Park. The 2010 version featured R&B starprevious year. People invited friends from Chaka Khan, who closed out the four-dayother villages to join them at church event, and neo-soul sensation Erykahceremonies and something to eat afterwards. Badu. Previous events have attracted EltonThe tradition mushroomed into massive John, Stevie Wonder, Mary J Blige, Sting, TobAGo mUHTAdI InTErnATIonAl drUmmInG fEsTIVAlvillage cookouts, always on a Sunday, Diana Ross, and George Benson. Though Started in Canada by Trinidad-born Muhtadi Thomas, the Muhtadi Internationalvisitors welcome. Fisherman’s festivals marketed as a jazz event, the festival draws Drumming Festival has had a Tobago edition each August since 2005. Drummers from allare held in the coastal villages, mainly on on talent from several genres, including over the globe celebrate the personality of the drum in all its forms over two days, withSt Peter’s Day (June 29). Like the harvest calypso, soca and chutney. It is normally daytime workshops and live performances at night. The event has drawn performers fromfestivals, they begin with church services in held during the last week of April, from the Ivory Coast, Guadeloupe, India, and of course, Trinidad & Tobago.the morning and end with eating, drinking, Thursday to Sunday. Jazz purists flockand partying into the night. Tobago for Jazz on the Beach at Mt Irvine. For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.104 T o b A G o : f E s T I V A l s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T o b A G o : f E s T I VA l s 105

SHOPPINGShopping choices in Tobago expanded with the opening of Gulf CityLowlands Mall, the island’s first venture into genuine mall shopping. And for gift ideas? Art: You never know what will turn up in the galleries or artists’ studios: sometimes it’s a gem. A visit to German-born artist Luise Kimme is likely to be a memorable experience: her work includes many dramatic, larger-than-life sculptures from oak, cedar, lime, cypress and bronze, and her studio at Bethel (“The Castle”) is a work of art in itself. Visit on a Sunday, or call to arrange an appointment. Batik: The Cotton House carries a large collection of handmade batik items, and lets visitors see how batik fabrics are created. BeautifulC wall hangings and garments uSTOMERS fOuND THEy COulD are popular batik products. easily get used to the air-conditioned mall environment, the secure parking, the food Craft: Interesting craft pieces court, the range of shops and the MovieTowne can be found at stalls nearcineplex that is part of the Gulf City lowlands the more popular beaches,development. and boutique stores often carry high-quality craft items:Duty-free shopping is limited to two shops at the airport, handmade pottery, ceramics,but supermarkets and mini-marts are plentiful enough for jewellery, soap, wood carvings,everyday needs. for fruit and vegetables, and the many beachwear. Several craftother items that markets handle, try the Scarborough kiosks at the Store Bay Beachmarket, especially on Saturdays. fish is best bought fresh facilities sell local and importedin the afternoon wherever fishermen have some to sell. beachwear and souvenirs.106 T O B A G O : s H O P P I N G D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M

SIGhTSEEINGBene balls, a hard sweet made of sesame seeds and molasses In Tobago, you see just as much or as little as you want.food: Tobago has its own favourite, home-made snacks: bene balls, sugar cake, nut cakeand tamarind balls can be found at little stallsand shops around the island, and at CrownPoint airport opposite the check-in area, theperfect parting souvenir.For more information, see the Service Directory at the back ofthis book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com. W hEN YOu FEEL LIKE STIRRING, BOOK A TOuR WITh A registered tour operator, or rent a vehicle and go exploring on your own. If you limit your stops, you can tour the entire island in a day. here are 20 of our favourite places (in no particular order): ABOVE: Fort King George, Scarborough 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: ToUrInG 109

Crown Point & the southweststore bay: one of Tobago’s watersports. Some glass- Store Bay twice daily. bon Accord lagoon:most popular beaches, great bottom boat tours leave here a popular spot for bird-for swimming and snorkelling. for Buccoo Reef. kimme museum (“The watchers; some boatmen takeThere’s craft shopping, and a castle”): workshop and visitors to a small white-sandrestaurant; glass-bottom boat buccoo reef & nylon Pool: gallery of German-born beach inside the lagoon calledtours leave from here. stretching from Pigeon Point sculptor Luise Kimme, who No Man’s Land for barbecues. to Buccoo Bay, an arc of five carves three-metre-highfort milford: a perfect spot reef flats is home to some 40 Tobago dancers and folklore Plymouth: the Courlanderfor enjoying a Tobago sunset. species of coral. It is rich in characters from solid slabs Monument is a strikingOverlooking the Leeward marine life, from tiny jewelfish of German wood. Open sculpture commemoratingcoast, this fort was built in to reef sharks and barracuda. Sundays 10am – 2pm, small 17th-century settlers from1777 by the British. Only a The Nylon Pool is a warm, entrance fee: 639-0257, www. Courland (now part of Latvia).few cannon and walls remain. metre-deep sandbar in the luisekimme.com. Fort James lies at the far end lagoon: it’s said swimming of the village; and a “mysteryPigeon Point Heritage Park: here will make you feel ten Grafton caledonia wildlife tombstone” carries thethis beach, with its distinctive years younger, and lovers who sanctuary: a former cocoa cryptic inscription: “She wasjetty and carat-thatched kiss underwater are destined estate which evolved into a a mother without knowing it,cabana, is a vibrant spot. A to remain together forever. bird sanctuary after 1963’s and a wife without letting herprime party location, it offers Hmmm. Glass-bottom boat Hurricane Flora. Offers nature husband know it, except by fort bennett (above): a beautiful lookout point over Stonehavengood food, shopping, and tours leave Pigeon Point and trails and scenic hiking. her kind indulgences to him.” Bay, complete with a little pavilion and small garden.Scarborough Leeward coastfort king George & Tobago Adventure farm & nature reserve: this 12-acre organic estate grows a variety of fruit. Itmuseum: Tobago’s main fort, supports birdlife, has created a butterfly garden, and is a shelter for endangered species.perched 140m (460ft) abovesea level, has magnificent Arnos Vale river Estate & waterwheel: beautiful and rustic, featuring one of the best-views of Scarborough, Bacolet, preserved colonial-era waterwheels (1857) on the islands, great birdwatching opportunities, andthe windward coast, and several nature trails, one to an Amerindian site and former slave village.Lowlands. The fort, Tobago’sbest preserved, includes a main ridge: rising to 576m (1,890ft), this spinal ridge runs down two-thirds of the island.military cemetery, an old chapel Declared a protected forest reserve in 1776, it is the oldest in the western hemisphere. Aand a cell block. The Tobago favourite trail is Gilpin Trace, an easy 45-minute walk to a waterfall. A certified guide is stronglyMuseum has displays on botanical Gardens (above): these sprawling grounds with their recommended.Tobago’s early Amerindian era majestic trees and fine views provide a chance to relax amongand colonial days. brilliant flamboyants, silk cotton trees, and avenues of royal palms. charlotteville: legendary for its peace and beauty. An excellent dive centre with its own dive shops.110 T o b A G o : T o U r I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: ToUrInG 111

Windward coast Granby Point: a relaxing stop-off point on your little Tobago: just 2km2 (1.2 sq miles), this tiny way up the windward coast. A beachfront area offshore island is a trekkers’ and bird-watcher’s and playground lie below the fort. idyll. Once a haven for birds of paradise imported from New Guinea (and later wiped Argyle falls: Tobago’s best-known waterfall out by hurricanes), the island is now a bird and a highlight of the windward coast drive. sanctuary. Glass-bottom boat tours (TT$150) A 15-minute walk brings you to this beautiful depart from Speyside and Blue Waters Inn. three-tiered fall. A guide, available at the visitor centre, is recommended. Entrance fee, www. flagstaff Hill: at the northern tip of Tobago, argylewaterfall.com. reached via an unpaved road from the crest of the hill before descending into Charlotteville. speyside: the hub of Tobago’s diving industry, It was the site of an American military lookout known for its own fantastic diving. There are and radio tower during World War II. The view is magnificent views from the Speyside Lookout panoramic, encompassing St Giles Islands and south of the village. Speyside has remained the village of Charlotteville. charmingly subdued despite its popularity. There’s a tourist office, dive shops, watersports For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of Crusoe’s Cave, Crown Point operators and good restaurants. this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com. TIPs & TrIcks If you decide to drive yourself around in Tobago, note that gas stations are concentrated around the Scarborough and Crown Point areas, so if you’re driving up the coasts, make sure you top up your tank first. If you plan to drive into the mountains or off-road, consider a 4WD vehicle. Take extreme care while driving at night outside the southwest, since you can’t count on street lighting.112 T o b A G o : T o U r I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: ToUrInG 113

SPORTS crIckET Scarborough’s Shaw Park is Tobago’s premier cricket ground, hosting regional and remote villages, some inaccessible by car. Warning: muddy trails can be hazardous in the wet season. NB: No map of the trails Tobago is a world-class diving location, but aficionados of other first-class fixtures and top local league has been produced, so ride with a guide if you sports will find lots do as well, both on land and on water. games. Impromptu games are played want to find the best (and safest) routes. Cost: anywhere. Trinidad & Tobago Cricket Board, US$40 – 50 for rides up to four hours W: www.ttcricketboard.com T: 636-1577 sAIlInG The dry season (December – May) is the cYclInG best time for sailing. Most of the north There are two annual international cycling coast bays offer good daytime anchorage, events in Tobago: West Indies v Rest but only professional captains should of the World, and the Tobago Cycling attempt the windward side. The Tobago Classic. Parts of the Beacon Cycling Series Carnival Regatta (formerly Sail Week) is a take place in Tobago, and the Rainbow popular annual event, for partying as well Triathlon Club arranges several events. as sailing, and provides racing for varying Tobago Cycling: 639-5053 levels. Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association, T: 634-4210, W: www.ttsailing.org fooTbAll Tobago united play T&T Pro League sPorT fIsHInG matches at the Dwight Yorke Stadium in The key offshore seasons are: October Bacolet, while ad-hoc matches are staged – April for marlin, sailfish, wahoo, tuna on beaches and parks everywhere. Trinidad and dorado; and May – September for & Tobago Football Federation (TTFF), T: barracuda, kingfish, bonito, and snapper. 623-7312, W: www.ttffonline.com; T&T Pro There are two major tournaments: the League, T: 645-4489, W: www.ttproleague.com Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament at Charlotteville (www.tgft. GyMS & fiTneSS  com); and the Trinidad & Tobago Game head for one of the larger hotels: most Fishing Association Tournament at have well-equipped gyms Speyside (www.ttgfa.com, 624-5304). There have been record catches in recent years, HorsE rIdInG with a junior world record 400kg (890lb) You can enjoy horseback riding on some blue marlin caught in the 2008 TTGFA beaches, including Stonehaven, Grand tournament. Conservation is important, so dIVInG Courland and Canoe Bays. There are competitions and charters use the tag-Tobago is a prime international dive location, with over 60 established sites (mainly around woodland trails in the lower half of the and-release system. Cost: US$500 for anthe northern coasts) offering everything from shallow reef dives to deep diving, wreck island. Most hotels can organise trips, and eight-hour tripdiving and drift diving. There are turtles, sharks, moray eels, barracuda, tarpon, parrotfish, there is an office at Canoe Bay. Trinidad &rays (sting, eagle and manta), huge corals (big brain), sponges and sea fans. Most operators Tobago Equestrian Association: www.ttea.4t.com sUrfInGoffer introductory courses. There is a recompression chamber at Roxborough Medical The season is November – April, butFacility, 20 minutes’ drive from Speyside. Diving with a PADI registered operator is moUnTAIn bIkInG surfers always keep a keen eye on the seastrongly recommended, and be sure to dive with a member of the Association of Tobago Tobago provides some great terrain during hurricane season. Mt Irvine andDive Operators. Association of Tobago Dive Operators: www.tobagoscubadiving.com. Cost for mountain bikers of all levels, from Bacolet are major surfing spots, witharound $100 – 125 for a morning trip breathtaking downhills to easy coast cruises: board rentals and lessons available. Surfing coastal tracks, rainforest rides through the Association Trinidad & Tobago: www.ABOVE: Diving at Speyside (Stephen Broadbridge) Main Ridge Forest Reserve, isolated beaches surfingtt.org114 T o b A G o : s P o r T s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: sPorTs 115

Mt Irvine Golf Course, Tobago (Mark Lyndersay) morE sPorTs Athletics: Tobago Athletic Committee, 660-7655 basketball: Tobago Basketball Zonal Commission, 620-8487 Hockey: Trinidad & Tobago Hockey Board, www.tthb.tstt.net.tt rugby: Tobago Rugby Football Club, 639-5374 Table tennis: Tobago Table Tennis Association, 750-4608 Power boating: Trinidad & Tobago Powerboat Association, www.ttpba.com Volleyball: Tobago Volleyball Association, 660-7063 sports company of Trinidad & Tobago: 636-1401, www.sportt-tt.com Trinidad & Tobago olympic committee: 625-1285, www.ttoc.org TEnnIs Beach, Store Bay and Englishman’s Bay are Several hotels have their own tennis all popular. On the southeast coast, Anse facilities and will provide racquets and Bateau is a good anchorage and fuelling balls. There are public courts at Store Bay. point. Tobago Tennis Association, T: 769-0218 For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com. TrIATHlons Competitions and training events, such as May’s Rainbow Cup International Triathlon at Grafton Beach, are held during the year. Rainbow Warriors Triathlon Club, W: www.rainbowtri.com, T: 632-9004; Cyclones Triathlon Academy, T: 301- 1888/637-9860 wATErsPorTs Equipment rental and lessons in all manner of watersports – kite surfing, jet skiing, parasailing, surfing, kayaking, water skiing – are readily available at beaches islandwide, particularly in the Crown Point and Speyside areas YAcHTInG If you’re arriving in Tobago by yacht, Golf check in with customs and immigrationTobago has two 18-hole golf courses, at Mt Irvine hotel and Tobago Plantations. Costs: in Scarborough or Charlotteville, the twoapproximately uS$40 – $100. Trinidad & Tobago Golf Association: 629-7127, www. official ports of entry. There are no officialtrinidadandtobagogolfassociation.com anchorage sites, but Mt Irvine Bay, Grafton116 T o b A G o : s P o r T s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E TobAGo: sPorTs 117

SERVICE DIRECTORYBUSINESS ADDRESS COST* ISLAND TEL. WEBAccommodationBelleviste Apartments Crown Point $$ Tobago 639-9351 www.belleviste.comBlue Haven Hotel Bacolet Bay $$$ Tobago 660-7500 www.bluehavenhotel.comCrown Point Beach Hotel Crown Point $$$ Tobago 639-8781 www.crownpointbeachhotel.comPlantation Beach Villas Black Rock $$$$ Tobago 639-9377 www.plantationbeachvillas.comTropikist Hotel Crown Point $$, $$$ Tobago 639-8512 www.tropikist.comVilla Sans Souci Tobago Plantations, Lowlands $$$$ Tobago 628-3334 www.villa-sans-souci.comVillas at Stonehaven Black Rock $$$$ Tobago 639-0361 www.stonehavenvillas.comAlicia’s House 7 Coblentz Gardens, St Ann’s $$ Trinidad 623-2802 www.aliciashouse.comThe Allamanda 61 Carlos St., Woodbrook $$ Trinidad 622-1480Cara Suites Southern Main Road, Claxton Bay, San Fernando $$$ Trinidad 659-2272 www.carahotels.comCarlton Savannah 2-4 Coblentz Ave., Cascade $$$ Trinidad 621-5000 www.thecarltonsavannah.comCourtyard by Marriott Invaders Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain $$$ Trinidad 627-5555 www.courtyard.com/poscyHacienda Jacana PO Box 6, Port of Spain $$$$ Trinidad 498-7597 www.haciendajacana.comHilton Trinidad Lady Young Rd., Morvant $$$ Trinidad 624-3211 www.hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidadHoliday Inn Express Hotel 1 Exposition Drive, Trincity $$$ Trinidad 669-6681 www.hiexpress.comHyatt Regency Hotel 1 Wrightson Rd., Port of Spain $$$$ Trinidad 623-2222 www.trinidad.hyatt.comKapok Hotel 16–18 Cotton Hill, St Clair $$$ Trinidad 622-5765 www.kapokhotel.comMonique’s Guesthouse 114–116 Saddle Rd., Maraval $$, $$$ Trinidad 628-3334 www.moniquestrinidad.comMt Plaisir Estate Hotel Grande Rivière, Toco $$, $$$ Trinidad 670-1868 www.mtplaisir.comPar-May-La’s 53 Picton St., Woodbrook, POS $ Trinidad 628-2008 www.parmaylas.comRoyal Hotel 46–54 Royal Rd., San Fernando $$$ Trinidad 652-4881 www.royalhoteltt.comThe Royal Palm Suite Hotel 7A Saddle Road, Maraval $$, $$$ Trinidad 628-5086 www.royalpalm.co.ttTradewinds Hotel 38 London St., St Joseph Village, San Fernando $$ Trinidad 652-9463 www.tradewindshotel.netDining & NightlifeBar Code Corner Mt. Marie & Milford Rds., Scarborough $$ Tobago 635-2633 www.barcodetobago.comAdam’s Bagels 15A Saddle Rd., Maraval $ Trinidad 622-2435Angelo’s 38 Ariapita Ave., Woodbrook $, $$ Trinidad 628-5551Cara Suites Southern Main Road, Claxton Bay, San Fernando $$ Trinidad 659-2272 www.carahotels.comCarlton Savannah 2-4 Coblentz Ave., Cascade $$ Trinidad 621-5000 www.thecarltonsavannah.comHilton Trinidad Lady Young Rd., Morvant $$ Trinidad 624-3211 www.hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidadHyatt Regency Hotel 1 Wrightson Rd., Port of Spain $$ Trinidad 821-6467 www.trinidad.hyatt.comKapok Hotel 16–18 Cotton Hill, St Clair $ Trinidad 622-5765 www.kapokhotel.comSpace La Nouba La Romaine $$ Trinidad 697-1165 www.spacetrinidad.comSubway Lot 21 Frederick Settlement, Caroni $ Trinidad 645-8158Tradewinds Hotel 38 London St., St Joseph Village, San Fernando $$ Trinidad 652-9463 www.tradewindshotel.netVeni Mangé 67A Ariapita Ave., Woodbrook $$ Trinidad 624-4597 www.venimange.comZanzibar Fiesta Plaza, MovieTowne, Invaders Bay $$ Trinidad 627-0752 * Price range (US$): $: under $50; $$: $50 – $100; $$$: $100 – $200; $$$$: $200 and over.118 S e r v i c e D i r e c t o r y D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I V E R S A RY I S S U E Service Directory 119

SERVICE DIRECTORY continuedBUSINESS ADDRESS ISLAND TEL. WEBtouring & travelFrankie’s Tours Mt. Irvine Tobago 631-0369 www.frankietours-tobago.comPlantation Beach Watersports Black Rock Tobago 639-9377 www.sailtobago.comSherman’s Auto Rentals Lambeau Village Tobago 639-2292 www.shermansrental.comThrifty Car Rental Crown Point Tobago 639-8507 www.thrifty.comAmerican Airlines 69 Independence Square, Port of Spain Trinidad 821-6000 www.aa.comAuto Rentals Lady Young Rd., Morvant Trinidad 675-7368 www.autorentalstt.comCaribbean Airlines Ltd. Nicholas Towers, Independence Square, Port of Spain Trinidad 625-7200 www.caribbean-airlines.comCaribbean Discovery Tours 9B Fondes Amandes, St Ann’s Trinidad 624-7281 www.caribbeandiscoverytours.comChaguaramas Development Authority Airways Road, Chaguaramas Trinidad 634-4227 www.chagdev.comKalloo’s Auto Rentals 31 French St., Port of Spain Trinidad 622-9073 www.kalloos.comPort Authority of Trinidad & Tobago Wrightson Rd., Port of Spain Trinidad 623-9353 www.patnt.comT&T Sightseeing Tours 165A Western Main Rd., St James Trinidad 628-1051 www.trintours.comBusiness & communicationsAbraham Tobago Realty Bacolet St., Scarborough Tobago 639-3325 www.abrahamrealty.comCaribbean Estates, Lands and Villas Cor. Milford & Golden Grove Roads, Canaan Tobago 639-5263 www.realestatetobago.comTobago House of Assembly 12 Sangster’s Hill, Scarborough Tobago 639-2125 www.visittobago.comCentral Bank Eric Williams Plaza, Independence Sq., Port of Spain Trinidad 625-2601 www.central-bank.org.ttNational Gas Company of Trinidad & Tobago Pt. Lisas Industrial Estate, Pt. Lisas Trinidad 636-4662 www.ngc.co.ttRepublic Bank Head Office, 11–17 Park St., Port of Spain Trinidad 625-4411 www.republictt.comSmithy Shipping and Hardware 58-60 George St., Port of Spain Trinidad 686-8817Telecommunications Services of Trinidad & Tobago Head Office, 1 Edward St., Port of Spain Trinidad 625-4431 www.bmobile.co.ttTDC Convention Bureau 29 Tenth Avenue, Barataria Trinidad 675-7034 www.tdc.co.ttThe Office Authority 60A Boundary Rd. Ext., San Juan Trinidad 674-1884 www.cppp93.comTourism Development Company Ltd. 29 Tenth Avenue, Barataria Trinidad 675-7034 www.tdc.co.ttTucker Real Estate 167 Western Main Rd., St James Trinidad 628-9307 www.tuckerrealestate.comSpasFace & Body Clinic Cross Crossing Shopping Plaza, San Fernando Trinidad 653-8329 www.faceandbodyclinic.comShoppingLagniappe Duty Free Crown Point Airport Tobago 639-0326B&Tees 12 Diamond Vale Industrial Estate, Diamond Vale Trinidad 637-3412 www.nativespirittees.comExcellent City Centre 3-5 Frederick St., Port of Spain Trinidad 623-6464 www.excellentstorestt.com120 S e r v i c e D i r e c t o r y D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I V E R S A RY I S S U E Service Directory 121

Salybia Bay Salybia Bay Galera Point Galera Point Bay Bay Grande Rivière Grande Rivière e e erip erip cqu cqu Ma Ma Paramin Diego Martin Diego Martin Paramin Brasso Seco Brasso Seco Asa Wright Asa Wright Nature CentreNature Centre Scotland Scotland Lopinot Lopinot Bay Bay Saline (“Sally”) Bay Saline (“Sally”) Bay El Socorro El Socorro Curepe Curepe f f Manzanilla Manzanilla Brasso Brasso Manzanilla Bay Manzanilla Bay and Bush-Bush Bush-Bush and Sanctuary Sanctuary Pointe-à-Pierre Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust Wild Fowl Trust Mayaro Mayaro Pitch Lake Pitch Lake Mayaro Mayaro Bay Bay Barrackpore BarrackporeTRINIDAD Rushville Rushville Los Bajos Los Bajos San FranciqueSan Francique 122 m A P s : T r I n I d A d D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E mAPs: TrInIdAd 123

PORT OF SPAIN TRINIDAD 124 m A P s : P o r T o f s P A I n D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E m A P s : P o r T o f s PA I n 125

NORThWEST NORThEAST TRINIDAD TRINIDAD 126 m A P s : n o r T H w E s T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E mAPs: norTH 127

Divali Nagar Divali NagarCENTRAL TRINIDAD 128 m A P s : c E n T r A l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E mAPs: cEnTrAl 129

SAN FERNANDO TRINIDAD 130 m A P s : s A n f E r n A n d o D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E mAPs: sAn fErnAndo 131

SCARBOROuGh TOBAGO S o l o m o n H oc h o y H i g hw a y Scarborough LowerSOuTh TRINIDAD 132 m A P s : s o U T H D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E mAPs: soUTH 133

TOBAGO134 m A P s : T o b A G o D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E mAPs: TobAGo 135

NOW, DISCOVER THE OTHER Please don’t leave without seeing both the islands.V ISITORS TO T&T SOMETIMES SETTLE DOWN IN ONE ISLAND or the other, and eventually leave with impressions and memories of only half of this kaleidoscopic country.Which is a shame. Partly because the two islands really are so different; and partly becausea visit to T&T offers you two destinations for the price of one. Two different places, twodifferent communities, different landscapes and seascapes, different personalities, differentpleasures and experiences. Does it make sense to miss one of them completely?And it is so easy to hop from one island to the other. Even a day trip, or a single overnightstay, can round out your experience of T&T with a whole extra dimension. Here’s how todo it. By air: Caribbean Airlines operates several flights every day between Trinidad and Tobago. Flying time is 20 minutes between Piarco and Crown Point airports, and the cost is TT$300 (less than US$50) for a round trip. Book in advance on 625-7200, caribbean-airlines.com. By sea: There is also a daily ferry service between Port of Spain and Scarborough, operated by the Port Authority (623-2901/5, patnt.com). The ferries — T&T Express and T&T Spirit — are modern, fast and comfortable. The voyage takes about two and a half hours each way, and costs only TT$100 for a round trip (half price for children aged three to 11). During the day, you see a good deal of the coastline of north and northwest Trinidad, and the dramatic passage through the Bocas, the deep narrow channels between Trinidad’s northwest tip and its scattering of offshore islands. And the ferry terminals at both ends are conveniently next to downtown Port of Spain and Scarborough. An older ferry, Warrior Spirit, makes a more leisurely trip, taking five hours or more each way for TT$75 round-trip, but you can book a cabin for TT$160. Again, children between three and 11 travel for half price.136 D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M

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Discover Trinidad & Tobago Guide 2011

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Discover Trinidad & Tobago Guide 2011 — Document Transcript