2011/1/24                                                             • Lab Introduction                                  ...
2011/1/24           Physiological Wear Trials生理测试                                                                         ...
2011/1/24                                                                                                                 ...
2011/1/24                          Pressure comfort                                                                       ...
2011/1/24                                 Cooling power of wind                                                           ...
2011/1/24      Computer simulations for biomechanical performances                   Fabric important properties          ...
2011/1/24      Typical moisture transfer behavior                                                                         ...
2011/1/244.4 Characterization of fabric thermal and                                                                       ...
2011/1/24                                                                                                                 ...
2011/1/24                      Result 结果(2)                                                                   Results (3) ...
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Functional garment design ispo 2011 a

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Performance garment / Sportswear design and evaluation. Presented by Dr. Hu Junyan, Research Fellow of Institute of Textile and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong on ispo china 2011 China Sports Fashion Trend Forum.

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Transcript of "Functional garment design ispo 2011 a"

  1. 1. 2011/1/24 • Lab Introduction  实验室介绍 Content 内容Performance garment / Sportswear design  • Performance Garment design 功能服装的设计 and evaluation • THERMAL SIMULATION 计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能 功能性运动服装的设计与性能检测 • Fabric Functional Properties Characterization Dr. Junyan Hu Senior research fellow 织物功能面料特性检测 胡军岩 高级研究员 • Physiological influence of Functional Material Tel: 852 27664206, Fax: 852 27731432 功能材料的生理影響 Email: tcjxhu@polyu.edu.hk • Summary  结语 ITC, The HKPolyU 香港理工大学纺织制衣系 1. Bio‐functional Textile Research lab ITF Research Projects  生物功能纺织品研究室 创新基金资助项目 High‐Performance Sportswear  and Devices (ITP/014/08TP) 高性能運動服與裝置 Heat production within active muscle and its transfer to skin and sportswear 运动肌产热及其在皮肤和运动服装 间的传递 1
  2. 2. 2011/1/24 Physiological Wear Trials生理测试 Physiological study of cycling wear 自行車服的生理效應研究 Competition wear HPRW HPCW Commercial Cooperate with Hong Kong  elite athletes Hong Kong elite athletes in HPSW 與香港精英運動員們的合作 Olympic Game 2008 日期: 09.08.2008 運動: 划艇 活動: 2008 北京奧運會 http://www.hkolympic.org/imagecatalogue/c_popup_photo_gallery/3635Photo took on 2nd Dec, 2009 at train center (Rowing) http://www.daylife.com/photo/08vx9cDf8OffW EAG 2009 Hong Kong Source: http://2009eagarchive.lcsd.gov.hk/tc/news/gallery.php?catid=160 2. Performance Garment design 功能服装的设计 Clothing system 服裝系統 Rad iati on ‐Requirements 消費者需求 Convection on ti duc Con • A safe product Thermal & Moisture exchange • An environmentally friendly product Clothing System Human Body • A sustainable product Physiological Environmental st Physical P Physical Ph i l process timuli Reactions: Condition •A comfort product •Shivering •Voluntary exercise Physical stimuli •Sweating •… Body Decoding stimuli Psychological Process Collaboration of Technology Individual Overall and Fashion Psychological Comfort Physiological Brain Perception 科技與時尚的結合 process Neuropsychological Process 2
  3. 3. 2011/1/24 In the aspect of thermal comfort:Thermoregulatory  著裝過程中的熱舒適 control system -Heat losses In a neutral environment 熱平衡調節系統 During exercise, these percentages could be reversed.The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, George Havenith, Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of HumanSciences, Loughborough University, LE11 3TU Source: The skin’s role in human thermoregulation and comfort P. 563 In the aspect of fitness: Psychological sensory comfort 著裝過程中的體形變化 ‐ Clothing comfort dimensions Key stretch points on the body 著裝 舒適性的生理基礎 Tactile Itch Prickle Scratch Rough my am old Cl C Thermal-wet Thermal- Stiff Da H St Snug Soft mp ot ick y Smooth Loose Pressure Source: Textiles in Sports, P205 Thermal-wet comfort Tactile comfort 熱濕舒適性 觸覺舒適性 • Sensations involving temperature and moisture • Direct fabric‐skin mechanical interactions  sultry  damp  clingy  prickly scratchy itchy  clammy  hot cold  sticky...  sticky rough  sticky… • Thermal receptors • Pain receptors in skin • Transport properties of clothing  heat transfer • Fabric surface/mechanical properties moisture transfer air permeability… 17 18 3
  4. 4. 2011/1/24 Pressure comfort International Standards for thermal comfort  壓力舒適性 clothing 有關熱舒適的一些國際標準 • ISO 7243, Hot environments — Estimation of the heat stress on working man, based on the WBGT‐index (wet bulb  globe temperature) • The space allowance between the body and the  • ISO 7726, Thermal environments — Instruments and methods for measuring physical quantities garment • ISO 7730, Moderate thermal environments — Determination of the PMV and PPD indices and specification of the  conditions for thermal comfort • ISO 8996, Ergonomics — Determination of metabolic heat production • ISO 7933, Hot environments — Analytical determination and interpretation of thermal stress using calculation of  • Fabric bulk mechanical behaviours and overall fitness of  required sweat rate required sweat rate garment • ISO 9886, Evaluation of thermal strain by physiological measurements • ISO 9920, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Estimation of the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance  of a clothing ensemble • The pressure receptors in skin • ISO 10551, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Assessment of the influence of the thermal environment using  subjective judgment scales • ISO/TR 11079, Evaluation of cold environments — Determination of required clothing insulation (IREQ) • ISO 13732 (all parts), Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Methods for the assessment of human responses to  • A number of synthetic sensations contact with surfaces • ISO 12894, Ergonomics of the thermal environments — Medical supervision of individuals exposed to extreme hot or  loose heavy lightweight cold environments soft  stiff snug… • ISO 13731, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Vocabulary and symbols 19 Cold environments and people with special  • 1 met is 58.15 W/m2. requirements • A sleeping person has a rate of 0.7 met, and  reclining awake is 0.8 met. • Office work is 1.2 met: a mostly seated activity • Working in cold environments but one that involves occasional moving about.  – be exposed to severe conditions • Walking slowly (0.9 m/s, or 2 mph) is 2 met,  • in the home,  moderate walking (1.2 m/s or 2.7 mph) is 2.6  met, and fast walking (1.8 m/s or 4 mph) is 3.8  • during outdoor activities,  met (ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals, 2005).  • sporting activities or  • Swimming ranges from 4 to 8 met, and jogging 8  • during transportation.  to 12 met (Brooks et al., 1996). • Wind chill is commonly encountered in cold climates; y • The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%,  The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%,• Low temperatures with 85% of total energy released as heat• cold stress – climatic conditions under which the body heat exchange is just equal to or too large for  heat balance at the expense of significant and sometimes uncompensable physiological  strain (heat debt) Metabolic rates of  different activities 不同運動條件下的新陳代謝率 ISO 11079:2007(E) Source: ISO 8996 Requirements for protection Exposure time and at different combinations of  服裝保暖要求 ambient temperature • A method (and international standard) has been proposed that determines the required clothing  insulation (IREQ) as a function of ambient climate and activity (ISO/DIS‐11079, 2004). Ref: ISO 11079, Metabolic rate 110WM-2 4
  5. 5. 2011/1/24 Cooling power of wind Problems of in winter clothing 風速的影響 冬季服裝系統常見問題 • Insufficient thermal insulation in winter: – chilling of the body  – Hypothermia • frostbite, discomfort, impaired judgment, reduced capacity to work and poorer  endurance. • especially in the hands and forearms, causes deterioration of manual sensitivity  and agility. • harder to memorize and learn new things • Over protection: – Thick clothing obstruct movement.  – Heavy – Sweating, heat stress • Cold environment come with snow, ice and windSource: ISO 11079 • Insensible evaporative heat losses – about 100 to 150 ml per day per m2 of skin surface Sweating 出汗 The maximum sweat rate  •1liter/hour • an unacclimatized person seldom reaches. •2–3 liter/hour •a well-acclimatized person 3.THERMAL SIMULATION •When evaporated, •removes about ten times the basal body heat 计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能 production. (Guyton and Hall, 2000). Running Thermal physiological S-Smart软件 requirements 熱生理需求 Thermal Function 体表温度分布 Moisture Function 体表水份分布 running Sweat Dissemination 汗液发散区域The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, George Havenith,Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human Sciences,Loughborough University, LE11 3TU 5
  6. 6. 2011/1/24 Computer simulations for biomechanical performances Fabric important properties 計算機仿真生物力學特性 織物功能特性 • Stretch – to ensurer clothing doesnt restrict body movement and performance. • Moisture management – to ensure skin stays dry, thus minimizing: – (a) evaporation from the skin which results in rapid heat and energy loss; – (b) friction between clothing and the body and therefore reduced irritation. • Waterproofness and breathability and breathability – for protection from the elements while maintaining a comfortable personal  microclimate. • Temperature control – buffering against temperature swings between periods of activity and rest. • Light weight – to enhance performance and conserve energy as less weight is carried.  • High strength and durability – to protect the wearer and their clothes.Pure Cotton Moisture Management Fabric with Nano 4. Fabric Functional Properties Characterization Technology  织物功能面料特性检测 全棉差別導水織物 ‐4.1 Evaluation of moisture transfer properties Normal pure cotton fabric 全棉面料 9 8 Moisture management pure cotton fabric 全棉差別導水面料 Standards making Design principle 0.20g 0 20g Influenced by 影响因素: •components of the water 水的成份 •water content in the fabric 面料中的含水量 36 6
  7. 7. 2011/1/24 Typical moisture transfer behavior 典型織物水傳遞特征 防水/拒水织物 Water Proof / Repellent fabric 慢吸慢干织物 Slow absorbing, slow spreading and very poor moisture management fabric 快吸慢干织物 Quick absorption and poor one-way transport Fabric 快吸快干织物 Absorbent and quick dry fabric 较好的液态水动态传递性能织物 Good absorbent moisture management fabric 很好的液态水动态传递性能织物 Excellent absorbent moisture management fabric 61# 典型織物水傳遞特征 典型織物水傳遞特征17# 58# 4.2 Fabric Tactile  4.3 Characterization of fabric thermal radiation properties Comfort Tester 红外輻射特性测量 接触感觉测量 ΔT=10 ˚C 1.2 1 0.8 IR intensity(v) 0.6 0.4 0.2 t t1 tt2 t t3 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Time(min) 1 .2 1 tr1 tr2 tr3 0 .8 IR intensity(v) 0 .6 0 .4 0 .2 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 T i m e( m in ) 41 42 Y Li, JY Hu, Lubos Hes, Textile Fabric Testing, US. 6,601,457 B2 7
  8. 8. 2011/1/244.4 Characterization of fabric thermal and Typical measurement results on the skin surface moisture transfer properties 織物的動態熱濕傳遞特性 M easurem ents on Sk in S u rface 20 0 t1 t2 t3 t4 t5 115 0 H e a t flu x 18 0 W e ig h t 114 0 16 0 Weight change of skin model (g) Temperature ( ℃), RH (% Heatflux W/m^2 14 0 113 0 12 0 112 0 %), Fan, J. Fan J and Y S Chen Measurement Y.S. Chen,. 10 0 Science Technology, 2002. 13: p. 1115-1123. 111 0 80 RH 60 T e m p e ra tu re 110 0 40 109 0 20 0 108 0 0 500 0 100 00 150 00 200 00 25 0 00 3000 0 3 500 0 Stan, a thermal manikin at Tim e (s) Kansas State University, is 1hr 3hr 6hr used to measure the insulation R Hs Ts H Fs w eight provided by cold weather clothing. http://www.astm.org/SNEWS/S 1. Dynamic contact process; 2. Insensitive perspiration steady state; O_2009/f2360_so09.html 3. Dynamic sweating process; 4. Dynamic wetting process; 43 44 5. Steady wetted state; 6. Drying process Typical measurement results on the fabric Typical measurement results on the fabric bottom surface upper surface Mrasurements on Fbaric Bottom Surface Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface 105 1150 120 1150 Weight 95 Weight 1140 1140 100 85 RH Weight change of skin model (g) g) 1130 1130 Weight change of skin model (g ( Temperature ( ℃) RH (5) Temperature ( ℃), RH (%) 75 80 RH 1120 65 1120 60 55 1110 1110 Temperature 40 45 1100 Temperature 1100 35 20 1090 1090 25 0 1080 15 1080 0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000 0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000 Time (s) Time (s) RHfu1 Tfu1 weight 45 46 RHfb1 Tfb1 weight Effect of Phase Change Material of Energy Consumption of Clothing Assembly 5. Physiological influence  of Functional Material Layer-4 Environment temperature: -15℃ 功能材料的生理影響 Skin Environment 33 ℃ Layer-3 -15 ℃ Wear Trials Layer-2 穿著試驗 Layer-1 Waterproof Cotton The Second Nonwoven Breathable Skin temperature Layer Polyester Fabric 33℃ Humidity Sensor Temperature Sensor Structure of the clothing assembly Sensor location 48 8
  9. 9. 2011/1/24 Bronze award at IENA 2006 35.00 the clothing assembly A 30.00 the clothing assembly C 25.00 Dew point 25.5℃ 20.00Temperature(℃) 15.00 10.00 WV_C LW_C IW_C 5.00T WV_A LW_A Di2 IW_A Frozen point Di1 0.00 0℃ 0.00 DL1 5.00 DL2 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00 -5.00 -10.00 Thickness(mm) -15.00 Comparison of temperature distributions in clothing assemblies A (Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric without heating) • Bronze award at IENA 2006, ITPC – Intelligent Thermal Protective Clothing  and C (Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric with heating) System, 2‐5 Nov‐2006, Nuremberg, Germany 49 Correlations between OMMC and dampness Correlations between OMMC and clammy 綜合水份管理特性與潮濕感覺間的關係 綜合水份管理特性與濕粘感覺間的關係 IR images analysis Results結果 實驗二: 紅外圖像分析 Stage one: Running at 4 miles/hr Experimental Protocol  第一階段:以4 英里/小時速度跑步 •Warm liquid MMF Normal arrive out MMF Normal MMF Normal surface• Environment 环境条件: •No evaporation –Temperature: 33ºC –RH:                 40% –IR camera 红外摄像机: Nikon Laird S‐270 –Physical exercise Rate 运动强度 4miles/ hr 英里/小时 •More area of Beginning began to sweat evaporation Heavy sweating• Special designed T shirt (left part is knitted MMF, right part  开始 开始出汗 出大汗 is normal pure cotton knitted fabric with same structure.)  特殊设计的T恤 (左半部为针织液态水管理面料,右半部为相同结构 的全棉普通针织面料) 0 8 28 Time时间 (min分钟) 9
  10. 10. 2011/1/24 Result 结果(2) Results (3) Skin temperature distribution when take off shirt after 80 minutes rest Stage two: Standing rest after 30 minutes running 休息80分鐘後,除下T恤後皮膚表面的溫度分佈情況 第二階段:跑步30分鐘後,立停休息 Dry & Warm Dry & Warm MMF Normal MMF Normal Damp, Damp, Cold Cold 75 85 Back view after 70 Back view at take off shirt 45 55 (rest) seconds Time 时间(min分钟) 刚除下T恤 除下T恤70秒后 Summary  结语 • Collaboration of  Technology and Fashion Contact information 科技與時尚的結合 联系方法 – Clothing system design Dr. Junyan HU – 服装系统性设计 胡军岩 博士,高级研究员 • Comfort requirement – 舒适性的需求 Tel: 852 27664206 Fax: 852 27731432 Email: tcjxhu@polyu.edu.hk MN104, 香港理工大学纺织制衣学系 MN104, Institute of Textiles and Clothing Acknowledgement 致谢We would like to thank HK Innovation Technology Commission and HKPOLYU for the funding of this research through projects ITS‐051‐02, ITP‐001‐07TP and ITP‐031‐08TP 10

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