Ilikemystyle quarterly issue 1 short


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This is the short version of the first issue of Ilikemystyle Quarterly, the first user generated fashion magazine.

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Ilikemystyle quarterly issue 1 short

  1. 1. first user-generated fashion magazine the 1st People’s Fashion Magazine (generated by the users of i like my style Quarterly this could be you! stary from london Fr/De/Au: € 12,- UK: £ 9.50 Fr /De /Au: € 12,– UK: £9.50 Be/Es/Gr/It/Lu/NL/Port.Cont.: €10,– Be /Es /Gr /It /Lu /NL /Port.Cont.: € 10,-
  2. 2. Letter from the editors ADIDAS SLVR / CONTEMPORARY SPORTS WEAR New Age 1, 2010 by Eliza Koch / username: koch Ilikemystyle Quarterly FrEquently Asked Questions Do I know the people in this magazine? Why would I want to know them? There are tons of celebrity magazines out there with photoshopped images and for- mulaic interviews, which is totally fine with us. We all read them. But we believe that the contributors of / people in Ilikemystyle Quarterly are highly entertaining, outra- geous, or just incredibly cute—and they’re real. Plus: Robert Pattinson, Kate Moss, and Donatella Versace are cordially invited to join our social network and become co-stars in the print magazine. What is user-generated content? All photos, texts, and illustrations are created by users of Some of them are professionals, like Marcelo Krasilcic who gave us a beautiful photo from Ipanema (page 123). Others are simply in it for the fun, like covergirl Eloise Hindle. Why does the photo with the guy in the furry, yellow Jeremy Scott coat (page 30) look so shitty? Does it? We like to snap pictures with our cellphones and forward them to our friends. It’s the way our world looks today: immediate, subjective, sometimes blurry. Who’s on the cover of the next issue? This could be you. Join, send in stuff, become part of the team. This magazine is only as good as you are. What do Chanel brooches (page 192) have to do with street style? Ilikemystyle Quarterly isn’t only about street style. It’s about variety, diversity, and passion. A teenage girl in pink H&M stockings, a white-bearded architect in a Fendi fur, some candy-colored kids in Johannesburg—they’re all relevant. Why is there so much text? Because some of our users like to write. So what am I supposed to be wearing this season? Spiky ballerinas (page 258). Jean shorts (page 74). A pendant in the shape of a Singa- porean elephant (page 96). Your call. And who are you guys? A bunch of friends from Berlin, New York, Texas, Austria, and Hong Kong. Most of us have a background in media, others in fashion. We believe in thinking high and low. And in dressing down—and up. Allyson Felix / 24 / Sprinter “There is no substitute for hard work – as long as you live a balanced life.”
  3. 3. CoNtributorS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 tHis could be you! 9 10 11 12 13 14 People who worked on Ilikemystyle Quarterly 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 1 username: selofan 46 username: may 2 Charlotte Cornaton 47 Felix Velasco 3 username: 48 Robin Kranz maisonlieske 49 Pauline Hoch 4 Cay Sophie 50 Antje Majewski Rabinowitz 51 Amelie von Wulffen 5 Frank Hornig 52 username: 6 Katharina davidcasavant 25 26 27 28 29 30 Koppenwallner 53 Delusional 7 username: KarlMarc Downtown Divas 8 Kirsten Herrmann 54 username: 9 Cody Chandler persephone 10 Jennifer Rubell 55 Joachim Bessing 31 32 33 11 Dinçer Şirin 56 Cordula Reyer 12 Sawa Takai 57 username: sigridrothe 13 username: jules 58 Michael Bullock 14 Nika Scheidemandel 59 Emily Segal 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 15 Guglielmo Castelli 60 Janet Cho 16 Julia Whicker 61 Etienne Descloux 17 Marco Rechenberg 62 Nils Dunkel 18 Kelly 63 Julia Knolle 19 Georgina Benjamin 64 Roy Chang 43 44 20 Chen Jin 65 Grace Hollaender 21 username: mauri 66 Haidee Findlay- 22 username: rene Levin 23 Greta Waroka 67 Ken Baldwin 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 24 Ingeborg Harms 68 Brenda Guesnet 25 Billy Cristian 69 Daniela Birnhäupl 26 Tenzing Barshee 70 Mark Krayenhoff 27 Nicolas Kantor and AA Bronson 28 Anita Pauls 71 username: petitsoleil 52 53 54 29 Anne Philippi 72 Marcelo Krasilcic 30 Eckhart Nickel 73 Pippin Wiggles- 31 Ulrika Åkerlind worth-Weider 32 Gabriele and 74 Jackie Thomae Gabriel Schauf 75 Michael Scaturro 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 33 username: dustin 76 Basil Katz 34 Eliza Koch 77 Volker Hobl 35 Sarah Wilde 78 Lukas Nikol 36 Pia Chew 79 Heike Blümner 64 65 37 Clark Parkin 80 username: sireduard 38 username: anoukotb 81 Lettie Jane 39 username: face Rennekamp 40 this could be you! 82 Ayzit Bostan 41 Mahret Kupka 83 Peter Kempe 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 42 username: minou 84 username: deixis 43 Lauren Hamersmith 85 Paul Kopkau 44 username: 86 username: hydra almdudler 87 Sofia Ekmann Neves 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 45 Alexa Karolinski 88 Daniel Reich 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88
  4. 4. The People Enigmatic home stories, global blind dates, style profiles. Exceptional pErsonalitiEs in their own words and worlds. a nod to this season’s superstars from . 13
  5. 5. the pEoplE international wardrobe Where’s the best place to take your grandma in Hamburg? Who to call for an all-nighter in Buenos aires? the most colorful leggings in london, the softest lederhosen in Bavaria, the edgiest art in istanbul? Users of share soursawanet their local expertise. from Milano read on page 20 t-shirt: American Apparel tank top: American Apparel skirt: Junya Watanabe shoes: PLAY Comme des Garçons 15
  6. 6. anitapauls Buenos aires from read on page 20 photo: Estefania D’Esperies all clothes: vintage store Juan Pérez 17
  7. 7. gabriel from hamBurg read on page 21 jacket, shirt, and jeans: Acne camera: Rolleiflex 6008 roychang25 from taipei read on page 21 shirt: Hang Ten tie and hat: vintage borrowed from friends pants: Comme des Garçons shoes: Energy photo: Andreas Gessler 19
  8. 8. international wardrobe My Crazy, multi-coloured 80s (username: geniegenie) gEorgina Benjamin by leggings from london Hidden on a cobbled street only five minutes from the conventional chain stores of central Covent Garden is a treasure trove that I can’t help delving into each time I’m in the area. The Pop Boutique is where I go for my fix of affordable, heck–downright cheap–vintage, acid- bright leggings (which I’m passionate about at the moment). Whether worn with flats in the daytime, or with huge heels and white lace socks in the evening, the leggings found at this shop should always be worn with confidence—the swirly, polka-dot, multi-coloured Lyrca shouts too loud to go unnoticed. My five pairs have cost me a total of £25, but the looks of bemusement (Is she really wearing those?!?) they’ve left on people’s faces have been priceless. So what else have I bought there? Pretty summer dresses, bowties, leather skirts, mohair cardigans with massive shoulder pads… The list of my Pop purchases goes on. I think it’s safe to say that by now, the staff probably knows me by name; I never leave the store empty handed. The Pop Boutique, 6 Monmouth Street, London WC2H 9HB Midwest MEmories in new york ken Baldwin (username: cuddlz) By new york from picture on page 30 My favorite place to shop in New York is Dave’s Army and Navy on Sixth Avenue. They have the best army gear and work wear in town: fatigue jackets, sweat pants, camouflage accessories—amazing! I’ve always been into outdoor hunting clothes. I guess ‘cause I grew up geniEgEnie in Columbus, Ohio. I buy Carhartt accessories here, Pointer overalls, from london dress: C&A thermals, navy stripe shirts, and knit caps. You can mix the stuff into your wardrobe and it looks timeless. Dave’s New York, 581 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10011 29
  9. 9. cuddlz from nEw york read on page 29 fur coat: Jeremy Scott 31
  10. 10. The People Julia richmond Virginia Julia Whicker (username: juliawhicker) may be the most stylish writer since Patti Smith. her well-crafted pictures (dachshunds, photo effects and all) read like a prologue to her upcoming novel, Wonderblood*. *read the first chapter of Wonderblood in The Words section (page 253). dress: H&M cardigan: vintage shoes: Colin Stuart 33
  11. 11. The People Julia richmond Virginia this page: dress: Guess Collection opposite page, top: necklace: vintage opposite page, bottom: Julia’s dachshund Olive 37
  12. 12. The People mknyc Mark Krayenhoff (username: MKNYC) is an architect and one of New York’s true eccentrics. Here he offers a glimpse into his wardrobe, and boyfriend AA Bronson (username: aabronson) explains Mark’s sartorial system. suit: Ozwald Boateng shirt: Richard James 43
  13. 13. The People shirt: custom-made shirt, NYC opposite: leather jacket: Toronto, Ontario jacket: Levi’s t-shirt: army & navy belt: eBay pants: Junya Watanabe
  14. 14. suit, shirt, and tie: Ozwald Boateng 49
  15. 15. The People Doppel gänger The people on the following pages are not couples. Often they don’t even know each other. Yet their photos seem to have something in common. A study of simultaneity and singularity. 55
  16. 16. The People doPpelgängeR petitsOleil from Paris judith from San Francisco 59
  17. 17. The People doPpelgängeR Rene from Berlin SiReduard from Vienna 61
  18. 18. The People Girl meets girl They live in Tokyo, los Angeles, Paris, Berlin, Buenos Aires and they’ve never met. During their blind dates via Skype, e-mail, IM, or even telephone, the girls talked about unicorns, Flemish paintings, and the power Charlotte of jean shorts. username: chavanitas panties: Topshop 65
  19. 19. The People obviously I PArty all over the place BrenDA GueSneT (username: randomvintage) from MInDen and jAneT Cho (username: janetscho) from Tokyo PArT 1: jAneT ASkS BrenDA jAneT: I hear you’re in Argentina right now. Do you prefer men from Argentina or Germany? BrenDA: Oh my goodness. Okay. So first, let me explain why I am currently in Argentina. I’m doing a student exchange with Rotary and I chose to go to Argentina, so I’ve been here for about six months, and will return to Germany in July to finish school (I’m six- teen years old). So far, it’s been an incredible experience. I’ve traveled through Brazil and the south of Argentina (I am way in the north, in Iguazú). As for men, Argentinean guys all look kind of the same to me. I can somehow never tell them apart. Also, they are extremely annoying and overbearing, which makes them unattractive. For some reason, I just feel more attracted to Europeans... jAneT: I understand. I used to prefer my kin (which is Asian), and now I am open to all types. What’s your favorite Argentinean food? BrenDA: Argentinean food is kind of an issue for me since I’m a vegetarian. But I really like dulce de leche (this type of sticky carameltoffeefudge stuff) and the pizza here is actually really nice! jAneT: What is your favorite dessert? BrenDA: This could keep me going for hours. On the spot, I’d say brownies with vanilla ice cream, lemon cake with raspberries, panna cotta, and creme bruleé. All of which I have not had in such a long time. Raspberries don’t even exist here. Ugh. jAneT: I love the contrasting neon-color tights and matching outfits in your photos. Do you also wear that outside? BrenDA: I do. And I shocked my entire ninth grade class. I was in my new-rave indie phase, (you know, 2007-08: neon everywhere, especially on skinny jeans; plus hearts and stars, skulls, animal print–that was me right there, listening to CSS, New Young Pony Club, Tilly and the Wall and such) so I obviously didn’t care at all. I was fed up with my small town and wanted to be rebellious, which was very easy. All I had to do was wear pink tights. I then moved on to vintage dresses and gold jewelry, and preferred stockings: American Apparel scarf/stole: Bossini janeT username: black and greyish colors. skirt: mom’s closet janetscho 77
  20. 20. The People Girl meets girl jAneT: What do you do with your female friends? PArT 2: BrenDA ASkS jAneT BrenDA: I’m sixteen and I’m on an exchange, so obviously I party all over the place, and before that, I love to get dressed with my girlfriends and I also love having sleepovers af- BrenDA: How old are you? What do you do for a living? What are your main interests? terwards. Apart from that, I love cooking, baking, eating way too much, walking around, jAneT: I am 26. I’m currently teaching fifth- and sixth-graders English in a Japanese ele- taking pictures, going insane, traveling, drinking tea, sunbathing, swimming, listening to mentary school. Technically, I am not a student, but I like to study languages, fash- music, and just lying in bed talking about nothing with my best friends. ion, and psychology on my own. I love styling my own outfits, remaking clothing jAneT: If you could be an animal, what would it be? and accessories, reading magazines and books on psychology, taking small trips BrenDA: I’d love to be a dolphin. Or a lioness! in Japan (preferably to locations where I can dip into an outdoor hot spring in the jAneT: I want to be a dolphin too. I have yet to swim with one in the ocean. Or I want to be snow), trying out new cafés that have DELICIOUS desserts and coffee, hip hop a bird that migrates with seasons. What is your first thought when you wake up? dancing, and drawing people who have fallen asleep on the train. BrenDA: Oh no! Did I sleep too long?! BrenDA: Do you live in Tokyo? If you do–first that is amazing, I am so jealous–and sec- jAneT: If you could create any dream world and live in that world, what would it be? ond, how do you get to meet people in such a huge city? BrenDA: I think that’s a really hard question to answer, because I know I could think jAneT: I live in a place that is a one-hour train ride away from Tokyo. I meet people about this for ages and invent awesome things. But then I would be like: But maybe I through existing friends, coworkers, and through a dance class that I go to regu- wouldn’t really be happy in that magical castle with unicorns grazing in my garden and larly. And sometimes I go to random “meet-up” groups just to see new faces. that I’d rather just stay where I am because I’m pretty happy right here in this life. BrenDA: Do you live alone? What does your home look like? jAneT: I live in a studio, and my space feels like a slightly expanded version of a room on a yacht. BrenDA: What makes you wear one thing over another thing when you get up in the morning? jAneT: Um...I can’t even put it into words. If I feel that I want to be more creative, I try to grab a few things that I won’t normally wear together and just go with it for the day. I usually think about the color and shape once I am “feeling” which piece to grab. BrenDA: What are your favorite places for buying clothes? Any favorite designers, even if you can’t afford their stuff? jAneT: Actually, I don’t even buy that much stuff these days since I started remaking Brenda things. But if I go crazy shopping, Harajuku in Japan is on my top list, and then the vintage stores in Shimokitazawa are also very nice. I love shoes from Balenciaga, username: Giuseppe Zanotti, and Vivienne Westwood. I also like Giles, Theater Products, and randomvintage mercibeaucoup. I’m interested in clothes that surprise me visually, like looking at outfit (including mask): H&M a surrealist painting for the first time. And I like Elsa Schiaparelli. BrenDA: What magazines do you love? jAneT: So-En, W, French Vogue, PS, i-D. Also, magazines that talk about discovering tiny shops and cafés in Tokyo. Magazines that show people how to pimp a kimono with a modern edge. BrenDA: What’s your favorite time of the year and why? jAneT: I am a summer gal. I love sun, sexy and colorful outfits, beach volleyball, reading, hanging out with friends at the shore, listening to the waves, eating ice cream, and watching the sun set—oh, I forgot to mention sunflowers. BrenDA: Why do you love your friends? jAneT: They’re super honest, spontaneous, and appreciative. We have so much fun talking about nothing and laughing our heads off. I love to be goofy with them. 79
  21. 21. The People quite a lot of clothes She is from Singapore and one of the earliest and most avid users of . Sharing her vision with devoted regularity and always posing with panache, her constant stream of outfits strikes the fickle hearts of fashion addicts worldwide. Whether she is attending an 80s-themed Depeche Mode party; going on a romantic dim sum brunch date with Mr. Voodoomary; or simply taking Rufus, her Bichon Frisé, on a tour of duty, she never fails to charm. Here’s a humble tribute to the inimitable Pia CHeW (username: Voodoomary) and her fashion anthology. 97
  22. 22. 22 28 6 11 17 1 29 18 23 7 12 2 3 8 13 19 24 30 25 4 14 31 9 20 32 5 15 26 99 21 10 16 27 33
  23. 23. Far out Traveling with curiosity and class. Users of and their stories on brief and everlasting encounters. Their pictures of exotica, violence, and beauty. 109
  24. 24. Far out Into Thin hair They have the eyes of a woman, they cannot be tamed, and they produce the finest fiber in the world. Joachim Bessing (username: jbessing) traveled high up into the andes, deep into Peruvian culture, and beyond the niceties of luxury travel in search of the mythical vicUña. On the Andean plateau above Nazca, at the settle- ment of campesinos called Ccollpapampa. This boy is wearing traditional Incan garb. In ancient times, the hair of the vicuñas was reserved for kings. The animal is still considered holy today. Its hair is referred to as the “fiber of the gods” (in a strictly non-dietary sense). 111
  25. 25. far Out From Everywhere with Love Our globe is an enchanting place, sometimes cryptic, often seductive. Users of write home from places you’ll never dare to enter—or desperately need to. 119
  26. 26. far Out from eVerywhere with LOVe Waves of Krasilcic / Username: marcelok by Marcelo Ipanema I shot this image a few days before Xmas last year. I was amazed at how creative the beach vendors at Ipanema are. This one sells Coke, cold Matte, and Guarana, a popular Brazilian soda. The two police guys at the bottom are part of the new beach patrol system implemented this summer. The water was warm, clean and the waves inviting. 123
  27. 27. far Out from eVerywhere with LOVe by Tree hug frank hornig / Username: atlantikfrank General Nikol / Username: supermicro by Lukas Smoke There are few things both hipsters and conservatives alike hate more than each other: tree huggers. I had never actually met one until I went to Olympic This picture was taken on the very gentle hills in the DMZ (demilitarized National Park near Seattle. I didn’t know I was traveling into Twilight ter- zone) on the border between North and South Korea. Upon closer inspection, ritory. Stephanie Meyer penned Bella and her vampire lover’s tales for that you’ll notice in the background the military reinforcements that South Korea cold and foggy area. And Forks, where the two go to high school, is one of has built in order to complicate an invasion by the North. the most depressing places I’ve ever seen. The North Korean general shown here probably holds an enviable po- Luckily I brought a book by Thich Nhat Hanh, a Buddhist monk. I sition within the DPRK army. He has been assigned to accompany the few have no particular interest in Buddhism—it must have been the title: Happi- foreign visitors in the DMZ. It’s a privileged position because it comes with ness. On our long drive down from sunny Montana, I read it out loud to my extravagant amounts of Western and Chinese cigarettes. Somehow, all the two travel companions. We laughed about it, gently. foreigners know that cigarettes are the gift to offer to North Koreans, who Olympic National Park is home to the only rainforest in the Northern all smoke. The General chain smokes, one cigarette continually clenched be- Hemisphere. When we entered, we were soon surrounded by the most ma- tween two fingers on his right hand, and yet he still has enough packs to sell jestic moss-covered trees. That’s when I remembered the monk’s wisdom: off on Kaesong’s black market. This trade commodity surely allows his fam- “I stop in front of one of the trees. I bow to it. It makes me feel happy. I ily a comfortable lifestyle in North Korea, hence his shit-eating grin. touch the bark with my cheek. Tree hugging is a wonderful practice,” for I gave the gentleman something else as a gift: raisins & hazelnut Ritter “a tree never refuses.” You can rely on it, according to the monk, and it will Sport chocolate—my favorite flavor. I always wondered what he got for this make you feel “refreshed and happy.” I followed the monk’s advice. It didn’t chocolate on the black market. change my life. But it made my day. 127
  28. 28. Far out whatalotigot Smarties are the non-US equivalent of M&M’s: chocolate on the inside, candy colored on the outside. The “Smarties” is also what a flock of fashion obsessed personalities in Johannesburg call themselves. The sharp-eyed, New York-based stylist Haidee FiNdlaY-leviN (username: haideefindley) went back to her home turf in South africa where she was taken by surprise. A mismatch of neon-colored, preppy sportswear, skirts, kilts, and clothes that they have reshaped, adapted, and DIY-ed themselves. 129
  29. 29. 131
  30. 30. far out chocolate-vanilla triangle parfait Bed Supper Club Bangkok Yum! You only get to know a country if you take a bite. Greta Waroka (username: noniloves) traveled to thailand and did a well-documented, in- depth investigation of the pleasures this beautiful kingdom has to offer. 135
  31. 31. far out Yum! Match Fanta-ice lolly fish with meatball-stick in shabu-shabu noodle soup with ice tea Chatuchak Market ginger sauce wonton glaze Central World Plaza meatballs with carnati o n milk Bangkok Siam Paragon Mall street stall Bangkok Park Avenue Chatuchak Market Bangkok Koh Pangan Koh Samui Airport Bangkok fried banana with schnitzel Singaporean food banana roti rice with shrimps chicken noodle soup vanilla ice cream with french fries Orchard Food Court (pancake) (sweet and sour) Chatuchak Weekend Thong Nai Pan Beach Schnitzel-House Central World Plaza Chaweng Road Chaweng Noi Beach Market Koh Phangan Koh Samui Bangkok Koh Samui Bangkok crushed ice with Swensen’s ice cream dim sum mango waffle meatballs-stick in milk peach cake rambutans Park Avenue MBK Food Court MBK Food Court wonton glaze MBK Food Court Siam Paragon Koh Samui Airport Bangkok Bangkok street stall Bangkok Bangkok Koh Pangan 137
  32. 32. Far Out Almost Flying One weekend in spring, COdy Chandler (username: chandlerca) took his friends amanda, Paul, and Brett on a journey through South Florida in the mighty Mercedes-Benz G-Class . They * encountered rare animals, got tribal in the everglades, and ran into the midnight breakers. amanda took notes in her journal. *Mercedes-Benz is a friend and sponsor of Ilikemystyle Quarterly and helped to make this magazine possible. 141
  33. 33. almOst Flying Paul and I got naked and ran into the ocean. It was Paul’s first time in the atlantic. We held exotic animals. My marmoset’s name was Meliik. Brett was jumpy. 145
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  35. 35. Kultur kritik Reviewing the world of fashion and beyond. CultuRal exChanges between bloggers, critics, the highly admired establishment, and the users of . 155
  36. 36. Kulturkritik Blogalogues What’s the difference between shaded and jaded? are there similarities between Francis Ford Coppola’s Dracula and Chanel’s latest collection? Where’s the beauty in reenacting British royalty? the world’s brightest Fashion BloggeRs on their life as taste- makers and frontrowers. clock wise from top left: A Shaded View on Fashion Fashematics Girls Are Made of Sugar Kingdom of Style 157
  37. 37. Blogalogues Diane Pernet [] Call Me President Obama Interview: adriano sack / username: adriano She is one of the most towering characters in the global fashion circuit, a revered former filmmaker, an avant-garde designer, and the mastermind behind the collaborative online fashion blog, A Shaded View on Fashion. No need to be introduced: Diane Pernet. In your blog, I just read that fashion is a snooze (most of the time). When does fashion wake up/wake you up? Real creative talent always interests me. I enjoy the thought behind a collection as well as the process of making it. What is important is to feel the atmosphere of the designers in their clothes. When was the last time that a fashion show felt really groundbreaking to you? I loved the Galliano show when he had his models walk through a long tunnel of circular light. It was produced by Alexandre de Betak and it was like cinema. Has there been a fashion documentary in the last years that you considered extraordinary or are these movies just another form of embedded journalism? In my mind, nothing is more interesting than reality and that is why I love documentaries. My favorites are Valentino, The Septem- ber Issue, and the Marc Jacobs documentary. What makes movies so interesting as a vehicle to explore fashion? Films go beyond the frozen image. My background is first film then fashion. I absolutely love the intersection of the two. It gives me the opportunity to promote filmmakers in the same way that I’ve sup- ported designers over the years. How did you get infatuated with fashion in the first place? I loved it since I was a little girl. I was in- fluenced by cinema. At first I didn’t pursue fashion because I’m not a great illustrator, but soon I realized it was not that important. What really counted were your ideas. Do you remember the first wardrobe item that you loved as a girl? It was a yellow cartwheel jumper with a funny zigzag trim that my grandmother made for me. I loved it. I also loved my plaid glasses—they were clear plastic with plaid material inside. Is there anything really unacceptable in fashion? People should feel good in their clothes. If some- one like Beth Ditto feels good round then all the better. I am getting sick, however, of looking at guys’ cracks when they are not young and beautiful. I don’t understand why they think we want to see a not-so-beautiful ass. Call me President Obama on that one, but I heartily agree. If it is a young and beautiful body, no problem. But when it’s not...I don’t want it in my face. Three wardrobe pieces, accessories, or technical devices you seriously don’t want to live without? A long flowing skirt, a simple black shirt, my veil, and of course my red lipstick—black crayon and transparent powder. Which other blogs do you read on a frequent basis? SHOWstudio, Style Bubble, The Business of Fashion. One superficial but bulletproof trick for how to be glamorous, please! Stay out of the sun and wear a beautiful shade of lipstick if you are a woman. Read the complete interviews and much more on 159
  38. 38. Kulturkritik Jonathan Zawada [] Keep it unreal! interview: Martin sau tin Cho / username: bucnam Never before have fashion and math made for such chummy bedfellows. Fashematic is fash- ion runway shabu-shabued into digestible algebra equations! Compulsive, pure genius—the most disparate, obscure references collide, yet all make perfect hilarious (non)sense. What’s your inspiration? The inspiration for the equations was really just the outfits them- selves. I really don’t see them any other way than as equations! Some insights into your encyclopedic background? It’s really all a lie—all smoke and mirrors. By presenting them as equations, the fashematics look much smarter than they really are. I’m a graphic designer by trade, so I’ve had a lot of experience dissecting images, and my own work tends to be constructed from a fairly linear sum of influences, so maybe that has something to do with it? Where are you from? I live in Sydney, Australia—unfortunately not the most stylish city in the world, but very pretty nonetheless. Describe your style in Fashematic. Nerd + handyman. Congratulations on the launch of Fashematical, your beautiful graphic illustration-zine of zombies in the runway’s finest from spring/summer 2010. Explain the relationship between the undead and fashion. Thanks! The summary of rampant consumerism in George A. Romero’s Dawn of the Dead really says it all, only to me this seems even more acute when you are watching a hungry, skeletal woman walking to the end of a runway having seemingly no idea why she was heading there in the first place, then mindlessly turning back, then doing it all over again about a minute later. Wardrobe item that you own that represents you. Tie-dyed overalls. If you could invite anyone or anything to your dinner party, who would you break bread with? That Honda robot and the lead singer from Gogol Bordello. Movie(s) that color your world? Adaptation, Studio Ghibli’s Porco Rosso, and 2001: A Space Odyssey. I would give up everything just to... Live in Super Mario’s galaxy. What would your dream house look like? It would be a big glass atrium filled with tropical plants— like a big greenhouse built on top of hundreds of giant concrete cat statues. And it would contain butterflies, a fish pond/swimming pool, and a tent to sleep in inside. Song of your life? It’s corny, but “All Is Full Of Love,” by Björk. Favorite expression of yours? Nothing tastes as good as skinny looks. Character whose style you like from: a movie? Annie Hall. Comic/cartoon? Tank Girl. In real life? My wife, Annie. History Channel or Discovery Channel? Discovery Channel for sure. It will all be on History Channel in a couple of hundred years anyway. What’s the look/prediction for 2010? Ponchos! Any last words? Keep it unreal! Read the complete interviews and much more on 161
  39. 39. kulturkritik clOSe- upS Fashion is for people who want to be seen. Experts in the visual arts analyze some outstanding pictures from . clock wise from top left: Ingeborg Harms Jennifer Rubell Cay Sophie Rabinowitz Delusional Downtown Divas Cordula Reyer Daniel Reich 167
  40. 40. kulturkritik clOSe- upSMatch She doesn’t Want to answer my quEstions by cordula REyer A lady, a housewife, a whore in the kitchen? The bourgeois environment of that small kitchen with the silly paint- ing of some unhappy flowers above the tidy stove is in sharp contrast with her looks. Nevertheless, the photo elicits a strong romantic feeling for me. So does hydra herself. Her vintage, glamorous brown fur adds to her exotic looks and beautiful black hair. Almost stubbornly, she turns away to light her cigarette. She doesn’t want to answer my questions. Obstinately, she twists her foot and keeps her secret. I like the fact that she almost walks out of the frame to escape me. Her shredded punk skirt would for sure be a favorite for Rei Kawakubo. I love the combination. Her vintage shoes are fantastic. It seems liberating to be in somebody else’s shoes. “Give her a cigarette,” Peter Lindbergh would often shout during his photo shoots. And indeed–all of a sudden–the photo would come alive. It does the trick here. I look and I see a story. A story that could be told by Fassbinder. I see Lola, Lili Marlene, Petra, Veronika. This is about a girl from a far away place trying to escape that timeless frame of a kitchen that’s way too small for her style, her preten- sions, and her desires. Cordula Reyer was a model and Helmut Lang’s muse. Today she is a writer and lives in Los Angeles and Vienna. hydradonkey Boy from 173
  41. 41. kulturkritik clOSe- upSMatch SO yes, I would date hiM by the delusional dOwntown divas Swann: Well somebody needs the Apple Bottoms and the boots with the furrr! A g N e s s : This guy just slipped a girl a roofie at Lit but by the time they got home, he was so dehydrated that he passed out first. O o n a : This guy is totally going to grow up to be someone’s creepy uncle who always wants to close-dance at Channukah parties. So yes, I would date him. MaISonlieske from BErlin The Delusional Downtown Divas are the stars of a series of webisodes about vanity, presumptions, and ambition in the New York art world. 177
  42. 42. Kulturkritik With Compliments We didn’t produce these photos ourselves, but we think they’re remarkable. Some of the season’s best fashion spreads seen by our users. Paradis No. 5 This display of morbid innocence has the capacity to ren- der the editorial somewhat unassailable—confusion paired with veridicality has something ultimately seductive in its despair and ethereality. At least that’s how I see it. Perhaps that’s Paradis No. 5 “Haunting and Touching” because, to this day, I would still like to hang David Hamilton’s nymph-like images on my photographer and stylist: Hellen van Meene wall. I look at the dresses in this shoot by Hellen van Meene for Paradis, which stylist Van- essa Reid has chosen, with great pleasure. They’re brilliant dresses you can’t buy, but that doesn’t diminish my interest at all, because they really look marvelous in photos. They’re like nightgowns that scream for bloodstains but disguised as street wear. And they’re fea- tured in Paradis, which is a semiannual men’s magazine, run by a Dutch woman with a background in the arts, hence the handsome morbidity. About ten years ago, Hellen van Meene made a name for herself with pictures of plum youth in distress. It seems only natural today to linger at the edge of our romantic nightmares by casting these somber Bilitis girls. Or, as the dreadful Rachel Zoe would put it, Love, love, love... I die. by Katharina Koppenwallner / username: k-koppenwallner 181
  43. 43. Kulturkritik Vogue Italia, February 2010 “Bohemian Way”, pages 366–373 photographer: Emma Summerton stylist: Edward Enninful Vogue Italia, Febraio 2010 I have an antipathy towards the “chill girl” strain of “boho,” the kind that recalls slouchy hats, snow sports, one-hitters, and small vocabularies. What follows then is that for me, the stomping ground of “boho,” the “music festival,” is, the most horrible subtext for fashion. I don’t want the gloss of my maga- zine to be on any continuum–synthetic, staged, or otherwise–with any order of jam band. Acid, on the other hand, is no problem. Unfortunately, Vogue Italia’s spread, Bo- hemian Way, by photographer Emma Summerton has the trappings of banal bohemia: an Afghan /patchwork/antique jumble, chunky turquoise, a bell sleeved tunic, and tie-dye. But Sasha Pivovarova is dead. And it’s not dead like the zebra whose pelt she’s flung over, not the numb absence of a DNR, but elegantly, vampirically dead—dead like a rich deranged zombie. Look closer; the chunky turquoise is in fact a pile of heirlooms, her shoes; pearled little opera houses. She looks like a time-machined and cryogenically-unfrozen Anna Piag- gi. It seems like something very, very terrible has happened. A couple pages later, we get to see the whole room. It has deep-sea, showgirl-voo- doo vibes, like in Romeo + Juliet’s Miami with a vitrine full of funeral roses for a rotten, gilded Catholicism. Here, Pivovarova’s skin is too blue for her to just be a corpse—she looks capsized. Maybe “the bohemian way” isn’t just over but undead: It embodies what Slavoj Žižek calls “...dead but nonetheless alive...what Lacan calls tissue of libido, ‘la- mella,’ a substance of life which cannot ever be destroyed. The problem here is no longer mortality but the opposite: It’s this kind of horrible life form, like that of vampires, which you can never get rid of.” Later yet, our girl’s back is on the couch in a mess of patchwork. The colors and tie- dye are still textbook bohemian but the silhouettes are refined: a strapless gown and shawl, weighed down with unreasonable cuffs at the wrists. Then it’s the last set of images, and Pivovarova is upright again and (sullenly, scarily) anticipate. It’s my favorite outfit of the bunch: the long orange gown with one digi-print leg exposed and all those nutty bangles. We can see the room again, but this time it’s as if all the junk–the pop art vase full of roses, the setees, the Old South lamps, the patchwork–have been tidied up for what’s to come, and keep on coming: Eternity. by emily Segal / username: rIPyourself 185
  44. 44. HoBbiesObsessive pastimes, intriguing nocturnal behavior, and aesthetic achievements of the users of . 191
  45. 45. HoBbies Badges of glamour What do chloë sevigny, madeleine albright, and Peter KemPe (username: peterkempe) have in common? all treasure their collection of brooches, but only he specializes in chanel. Photographer rObin Kranz (username: robin) stages the precious pieces. left: classical badge, Summer 2003, after a photo by Horst P. Horst from 1937, redone in a pop art style. right: Cameo brooch from the runway collection Fall/Winter 1987. It shows Coco Chanel during her “English period,” when she had an affair with the Duke of Westminster. 193
  46. 46. Bolshevism meets Chanel No.5: emblem from the Paris-Moscow Fall 2009 collection. 195
  47. 47. HoBbies sketches of style Paul Newman’s new ears. Martin Margiela’s brain. Miuccia Prada’s delicate melancholy. Italian illustrator GuGlIelMo CastellI (username: skydoll) pays tribute to his most cherished fashion icons. Audrey Hepburn, actress 203
  48. 48. HoBbies Remember where you lost it Parties bring out the best in people: laughter, joy, dance, and ★ theglamourai from New york romance. But in the heat at Basement burlesque party read on page 224 of the night, they might encounter ghosts, excess, and their own demoNs. snapshots from the beautiful realm called n ig htl ife. Plus: factsheets about these notorious hours. 209
  49. 49. aBc ★★★ from munich at a New year’s party in los angeles read on page 226 213
  50. 50. HoBbies Pippin Wigglesworth-Weider, username: PiPPinweider from Zurich When? Sometime in 2004, after my final exams, and having graduated from boarding school, jumping into the afterlife. W h e r e ? Old, cheesy, rich club in Zurich: Diagonal. After they kicked me out, I organized my own party: Vertical. W h o w e r e t h e m o s t i m p o r t a n t p e o p l e t h e r e t h a t e v e n i n g ? The waiter. He always was. A good waiter whom you’ve known for some drunken years is a nice kind of family. To p i c s : I really can’t remember. W h a t w e r e y o u w e a r i n g ( c l o t h e s , f r a g r a n c e , m a k e u p ) ? Black Zegna cotton suit. Very, very dark violet Van Laak shirt. Black Zegna tie (lost while having fun). Black Hermès croc-belt. Black Bally scribes. W h a t w a s s p e c i a l a b o u t t h a t n i g h t ? Due to incompetence during sabrage, the methusalem’s neck was fractured, I cut my lip, blood every- where, some foreign guy started pressing toilet paper against my mouth… S o u n d t r a c k o f t h e n i g h t ? Can’t remember. If I could choose: Huey Lewis & the News! O t h e r p e o p l e ? Who was the guy pressing toilet paper against my lip? Was he gay? T r a n s p o r t a t i o n ? Old bulletproof S-Class—the edgy, heavy one, with a trusty driver waiting to bring me anywhere. D r i n k / S t i m u l a t i o n ? Vodka. Champagne. Stuff. H i g h l i g h t ? Yeah, he was gay. Actually, he was in my class. S e x ? He wanted me. Didn’t want him. Too drunk anyway. S l e e p ? Duh! 217
  51. 51. adriano eckhart photo: Martin Fengel ★★★★★ ★★★★★★ from New york from sonoma county at Kenny scharf’s Halloween party at Buddha Bar, Kathmandu read on page 228 read on page 229 221
  52. 52. Remember where you lost it Billy cristian, username: Billy from barcelona When? Summer 2009, my best friend’s birthday party!! W h e r e ? In Barcelona in my apartment and then to the club. W h o w e r e t h e m o s t i m p o r t a n t p e o p l e t h a t e v e n i n g ? It was me... and of course my friend whose birthday it was. W h a t w e r e y o u w e a r i n g ( c l o t h e s , f r a g r a n c e , m a k e u p ) ? My little brother and I wanted to dress up a little that day so we both were wearing a bowtie and vintage Levi’s jean shorts. I was wearing a dark gray jacket with spikes from some stupid store in Barcelona, a white shirt from Tiger of Sweden, a bowtie–but the thing is, it wasn’t a bowtie, it was a hair clip, so I had to re- make it–glossy black Dr. Martens, the rings my dad bought me in Sweden, and my dearest necklace—a Jesus cross. When it is a special day or a party, I always use a Dior Homme fragrance—the people go crazy. W h a t w a s s p e c i a l a b o u t t h a t n i g h t ? I remember it because we had so much fun. All my friends were at my place, eating, drinking, laughing, telling stupid stories about days we had been drunk together and playing beer games. S o u n d t r a c k o f t h e n i g h t ? Can’t remember. But I know it was my friend’s birthday party and she loves Dizzee Rascal, so I think it could have been one of his tracks. O t h e r p e o p l e ? The Indian family who wanted to take pictures with me… haha! T r a n s p o r t a t i o n ? I usually walk because I live in the city... okay I lied, we took a taxi, and usually we do that. D r i n k / S t i m u l a t i o n ? Mojito, wine, beer, and yes, I got stimulated… H i g h l i g h t ? We filmed a lot that night and I can’t stop laughing when watching my brother getting angry and screaming at me: “I HATE YOU… DIEEEEEEE!!” He was really drunk and all of this is recorded. S e x ? Scott wanted me, I said no, but now I regret it. Damn! S l e e p ? Sleep when you’re dead. 223
  53. 53. The words Hardboiled interviews, eclectic chitchat, and deep-digging essays by users of on the pHenomena of our world. 233
  54. 54. nine sTeps to THe Words World domination nine sTeps to World domination Why Korea is the new Japan by martin sau Tin Cho / username: bucnam In August 2007, the Seoul Fashion Artist Association (Seoul’s version of the Chambre Synd- ical de la Couture) declared “Year Zero” for Korean fashion, officially christening the dawn of a “Korean fashion wave.” Because Koreans are drilled into taking orders and government memos very seriously, Korean streets instantly exploded with a variety of fashion tribes and extremely individualistic expressions of style. All of a sudden, the impact of Seoul’s street fashion presence was felt throughout the blogosphere, with Google spewing images and analyses of the new Bryanboys and Susie Bubbles from Seoul. When Seoul-based fashion designer Juun J. sent his models down the Paris men’s Spring/Summer 2007 runway in a collection inspired by the military and his personal fetish for the officer’s trenchcoat, fashion capitals from Milan to New York clamored to heed to his order. At Feburary 2010’s New York Fashion Week, Korean fashion designers debuted with polished shows supported by an exhibition at the New York Public Library entitled ‘Concept Korea.’ It should have been penned: ‘Voilà Korea.’ With just a blink of the eye, style from this tiny peninsula was knighted pop. In a somewhat ironic reversal of cultural imperialism, South Korea has managed to outshine neighboring Japan’s hegemony. Korea’s conquest for global domination, which would make Alexander the Great both proud and dizzy, was propelled as swiftly as the the kicks of their TaeKwonDo fighters. Everything designed, new, and technologically-driven grows here under catalyzed lab-like conditions. The Korean success story is deeply rooted in many motifs and summing up the rea- sons makes it clear that this won’t be a passing trend: seoul: Seoul, the engine and soul behind South Korea, is fiercely fuelled by its ambi- tious and design-obsessed mayor, Oh Se-hoon. Making the city’s urban redevelopment his priority, his mission is to place Korea firmly onto the list of the world’s top five nations of cultural exports. Cultural figureheads and avant-garde designers the world over instantly took note: now the fashion-obsessed can shop at the capital’s very own 10 Corso Como and Ann Demeulemeester’s flagships in shopping mecca Cheongdam-dong. This past winter, Miuccia Prada set up shop next to Seoul’s historic royal palace, where she made her contri- bution to the future of the city’s arts endeavors by erecting the Prada Transformer, a state of the art performance/movie/cultural venue. poem to praise mountains Technology: Being on the manic fringe of technological innovation, South Korea by Chen Jin / username: chenjin is the world’s most internet-wired nation, its netizens buzzing down a constant highspeed 243
  55. 55. eyes at the end of THe Words Your Fingertips whereas most genetic women are afraid to put all of it together. They’re afraid of what their friends will think of them–whether they’ll scare the boys–whatever; they Wonderblood, Chapter one shouldn’t be. Isn’t that a matter of style and how comfortable you are with expressing it? Style is not about what other people think. You don’t learn it; you’re born with it. Taste, you can learn. Taste is based on seeing more and more and more things. You Julia Whicker’s novel starts as a tale about a can read Vogue as much as you want, but that will always be someone else’s style fragile future and a somber past, populated by superimposed on you. Style is innate; it’s not borrowed. fairytale characters, lost children, and medieval Is your passion for knowledge analogous to your passion for acquiring stuff? brutality. and this is only the beginning. Well look: when I plan to buy something, I buy it. Then I can take it home and I can play with it. If you look at an object in a book, it’s not the same thing. You can’t hold by Julia Whicker / username: juliawhicker it in your hand, you can’t walk around behind it, you can’t pick it up. The only way you can understand art objects is to actually have them physically. This is what I call Deep hunger, so cavernous she barely noticed, as well as an odd excitement filled her as she ‘eyes at the end of your fingertips.’ I respect people the most who have a direct physi- entered the city. Gimbal picked up the little dog and carried her because she did not want her cal knowledge of things. to get lost among the goats and sheep they were now passing—spindle-legged black goats What do you think of New Yorkers’ style? with curved, vicious horns and daemonic eyes and hooves that could kill the little dog with I live on the Upper West Side. It is a styleless pit. I mean if Dante has a circle of hell one kick, and others with udders drooping almost to the ground and sad long stripes up their for people who have no style, these people are going right there, direct. I have by far faces. Gimbal passed goatherds, mostly children, and then as she went further down the the most style of anybody up there. path, in the dust, under the spiny shade of a line of palms, she began to see women carrying Most genetic women will not wear wigs; they don’t think about wigs. They water, men on horses, magicians with their girdles of chalky, severed heads and their furious spend thousands of dollars on a gown, but their hair always looks kind of like their eyes. Carts with wood for fires, a man with a gun, a lost child. hair. Like Anna Wintour’s hair always looks like Anna Wintour’s hair. But if you re- It was not really a city, but a glorified camp—lean-tos and huts and tents striped ally want to transform yourself, you should just change the way your hair looks. gold and red, cooking pits and unmarked graves and noise, noise, the screaming gulls—the Do you have any designers that you particularly like? carnivals returned to winter over here and when they left, only the officials and the servants Besides me? I don’t look at designers, I look at what they make. ‘Cause I’m object- of the castle remained, but these mostly lived inside the compound proper. But in this deep, oriented, not personality-oriented. I’m not going to be his/her follower just because balmy February there must have been fifteen carnivals set up around the castle and Gimbal of what they are. reeled from all the sounds and the smells as she elbowed her way through thicker and thicker What kind of advice would you give to aspiring drag queens? swaths of people. No one looked at her. She pulled her scarf closer around her hair and Go out there and do it! It has to be an image in and of itself; it should be an honest wiped at her cheek—some tear was there, astoundingly, though she could not imagine why. form of self-expression. And that means, therefore, that anything you do for some ul- The dog did not squirm in her arms, but watched everything with oil-black eyes. terior motive will work against you. If you’re a dancer, then you really have to turn it Near the wall, she stopped to get her bearings. Gimbal could not determine where out; if you’re a comedian, you really have to be funny; if you’re a performance artist, or how to enter but to her left–yes–rising inside the walls, was the greatest execution stage it really has to be weird. And the cost of entry is really small. Basically it’s a couple she’d yet seen, a tall shell-shaped platform painted pitch black and curtained in iridescent of dresses and a cheap-ass wig. silk so expensive, so foreign, she studied it for a full moment before realizing it was silk. Are you a performance artist? She hadn’t seen silk since her mother was alive all those years ago—her mother kept scrap Absolutely. I mean it is, ‘cause that’s what I do. You know I’m not a singer, I’m a of printed silk in a box of her treasures. The scrap had seemed full of liquid-water coolness fairly good dancer but that’s not what I do. Performance art is as much about the idea and moonglow—a celestial fabric. Now, this conch-pale silk hung under the fanned awning, behind the performance as the performance itself. With me, there’s always some coup rippling in the breeze and varying in a gradient between shades of white, peach, pink, and de theatre involved. Whatever happens, happens; you never know. blue. They must tie it back during the executions—otherwise, the blood. “Why the staring, oldish lady? Have you never been here before?” She turned and there stood a woman with a metal basin of blood at her feet, of inde- terminate age, with an indecipherable expression, gazing up at the execution stage from one of the booths. In profile, her nose was sharp and long, and her hair–colorless and wispy as a 253
  56. 56. THe Words Wonderblood, Chapter one child’s–was parted low on her forehead so her face seemed very small. Upon it, all her fea- tures appeared tight and slanted, but her hair was shining markedly for having no particular color. Gimbal could not decide if she was pretty or very ugly and when the woman faced her, she found herself staring. The eyebrows were pale and heavy, the mouth, childlike. The eyes, ravaging, painful to behold, looked like wounds in her head. Gimbal stepped back. “I don’t mean any harm,” she muttered. The woman nodded. “I didn’t expect you did.” She wore a loose, long-sleeved tunic, feathers fashioned into a necklace, and over- the-knee boots of bloody-looking leather—everything black but the feathers, which were teal, brown, and white. Inside her stall, the ground was covered in sawdust and sacking. She gestured to the tub of blood: “It’s not for me. It’s for the magicians.” “Of course,” Gimbal said. Her lips curled slightly. “Would you like some?” “Oh. No.” She nodded once more. “If you don’t mean any harm, why stare so hard? What are you looking for, at? Or who? Whom?” She raised her eyes. “I should say, if you’re not doing anything in particular, per- haps you might want to move on, because this space is occupied by me and mine. Since I don’t know you and you’re not here to buy my blood, I should think you’d like to press on, lady. Maybe.” Gimbal blinked. “I…didn’t realize I was in the way.” “Oh, you’re not…in my way. My sister’s way, yes, probably, you will be if you don’t go on. She’ll be along soon. For the blood.” She cast her hand almost disgustedly at the basin. On her left middle finger was a ring of blue glass that caught the sunlight in a scintillating flash, and Gimbal wondered where she’d gotten such a thing and why she wore it around the blood, the wrongness of it curi- ously upsetting. The ring, a giant star, cosmic and iron, and somehow like a crown, seemed to hold light within its facets. A murky apprehension grew in Gimbal’s temples. She very courtesy neugerriemschneider, Berlin much wanted to walk away. The woman watched with her expressionless face and said, “She has to get it while it’s not too cold. The blood. My sister’s not very nice.” Gimbal attempted to turn but the woman continued. “Of course, if you are doing something particular—” She frowned. “Who am I to stop you?” “I have to go,” Gimbal said. “Where?” Gimbal did not reply. She took four steps to the right. “Oh no, not that way. Any way but that way,” said the woman. “What?” “Looking to go inside, are you?” She was glaring now. Gimbal froze. The woman pushed through a hinged half-door and exited her booth, Kopftuch, 2009 came and stood beside her, and all around her was the sharp smell of citrus. by antje majewski / username: oskarbravo “You should’ve said so. You should’ve just told me. What, exactly, are you looking 255
  57. 57. THe Words ping pong review ping pong review: slightly protruding under his skin-colored t-shirt (another one of this season’s musts) is es- Wrap it like pecially fetching. Please make sure you steer clear of the shank-snap, nylon varieties from adidas with triple stripes running down the side—opt for the cotton, frat boy drawstring marc JaCobs! sweatpants instead. Phoebe Philo is wrapping the fashion world around her fingers. Her debut for Céline was stellar (eclipsing the latter), especially those nappa leather t-shirts. Every good collec- an e-mail conversation about: the stylistic message tion this season has some traces of Céline’s DNA in it—the return to minimal, wearable of the movie Un prophète, the reign of fashion sportswear. Her all-neutral color palette (khaki, camel, ivory, black, beige) rules. ALSO: she designer phoebe philo, skinny arms versus confident brought back military drab and safari jackets as staples. And it’s not some designer’s com- arms, The Tin drum, the eternal question of how ment on the wars (blah blah snore), it’s just one designer spearheading the zeitgeist! I’m so to wear an Hermès scarf. plus: some bitchy remarks looking forward to seeing her on the cover of Gentlewoman! about german fashion sensibility. Watching the Oscars right now. Tom Ford on the red carpet is trying so hard to give his best Olsen Twin face…he does look better again, though. He’s like a greenhouse flower: by adriano sack / username: adriano needs warmth, love, and care. And lots of light (on him). and martin sau Tin Cho / username: bucnam Talk soon, Martin On Mar 7, 2010, at 6:35pm, Adriano Sack wrote: On Mar 8, 2010, at 12:29pm, Adriano Sack wrote: Dear Martin, Just listened to “The time is now” by Moloko, which pleasantly reminds me of how Hey Martin, much Sigrid’s hair in the “Smart Moves” story (page 89) looks like singer Róisín Murphy’s Weird morning: Dysfunctional internet gave us deadline trouble. A woman on the hair in the Moloko music video. Guess I’m sidetracking before I’ve even gotten started. street was complaining to her cell about “spring break girls gone wild” at some holiday Let’s start the conversation, like Hillary used to say. destination to which she’ll never return. One thing: Did you spot obituary references to Alexander McQueen in any of the But: my Armenian laundry retrieved my lost shirts. The GOOD news of the day. It recent shows? would have been a painful loss: two +Js, a vintage Thom Browne, and two shirts from this Then: Should I dress like Tahar Rahim in Un Prophète this spring (adidas sweatpants, crazy store, Piombo, in Milan. The latter I strongly recommend to anybody who wants dial- black leather jacket from Orchard Street, thick but short moustache, longish hair)? up color in his wardrobe. At first sight, it looks like the cave of a cashmere-loving parrot, but Also: Please explain the rise of Phoebe Philo! the deeper you get into the sweaters, shirts, and scarves, the more you feel a kindred spirit to Can’t wait to hear your take on this, the owner. He had Nan Goldin shoot the campaign images for his store–which seemed like Adriano the ultimate luxury–before Bottega Veneta hired her to rip off her own iconic images from The Ballad of Sexual Dependency. Anyways: There were two “women with arms” moments at the Academy Awards. On Mar 7, 2010, at 7:29pm, Martin Cho wrote: When Sarah Jessica Parker was interviewed on the red carpet and showcasing her carrot- Hey Adriano, colored face and a cream-colored Chanel couture dress, her incredibly skinny arms made First of all, Sigrid looks ten times better than Róisín Murphy! She’s got it right: me wonder what kind of diet makes your shoulders look like latex-covered collar bones. It’s hair/wig is the new hat—the Uma Thurman-in-Pulp Fiction-hairdos at Lanvin; “Krusty the cheesy to praise the winner, but Kathryn Bigelow looked as if she had been working out blonde clown” at Junya Watanabe; and that oversized beehive at Prada. Miuccia’s new col- with two 8.5-pound Oscar statues for years: her arms looked defined but not excessive. Con- lection wouldn’t have felt complete without the double bobblehead effect that tops off the fident. The overall impression, however, was that of a very corporate and old school glam- orthodox Jewish wife silhouette. our. Where is Björk dressed as a swan or Cher as a hooker when we really need them? Still reeling from the loss of McQueen. Typing this makes the hair on the back of my After investigating Prada’s Women’s Fall/Winter 2010 show, I wonder if the ortho- neck stand up. Surprisingly, however, no real tributes yet. Tribute = inspired copying, so it dox Jewish wife is the right reference. I was more reminded of the White Ribbon aesthetic of would never be as brilliant anyways... north German, protestant farmers before WWII (before WWI, actually). Also in the opening Tahar Rahim is a sight to behold. I completely dig his ghetto fab style. His belly scene of The Tin Drum by Günter Grass, a man has to flee from his prosecutors and hides un- 259
  58. 58. THe Words ping pong review derneath the many layers of the underskirts of an unknown peasant woman in a potato field. While the police are looking for him (in vain), the woman starts breathing heavily because the guy takes advantage of her while hiding in her garment. I’m probably over-interpreting here, but there is some dirt on Miuccia’s black widow dresses. That look is so radically sex- less, it vibrates. Going to Berlin soon. Might have to take some presents. What does a girl really need this spring/summer and why? Can’t wait to hear from you, Adriano On Mar 8, 2010, at 4:21pm, Martin Cho wrote: Hey Adriano, Swung by Uniqlo this morning to check out the latest from +J. Well done as usual. I wanted a few things–some wardrobe basics–but all of a sudden my mouth felt dry at the thought of half of New York owning the exact same things. I stormed out and bumped into a stylish girl who obviously culled her wardrobe from vintage/obscure places—the tired cliché of mass retail killing true personal style crept into my mind again. Btw, I think my look for Spring/Summer will be Tom Waits’s character from Down by Law: cowboy boots with spurs. Then again, I always look so hopelessly faux grunge/punk that slathering myself with actual colors–bright colors–would be a more challenging experiment for me. Those neon, pink-toed brogues from the Fall 2010 men’s Comme des Garçons show could be the perfect starter. Some gift extravaganza ideas off the top of my head: 1. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s black, “Like a Prayer”-inspired mini-dress from last season with zip-open multi-colored cross motif. 2. Christian Louboutin’s spiked ballerinas. Sooo German. 3. Any moribund jewelry from Delfina Delittrez Fendi. 4. Tragic leftovers from former New York darling Phi, e.g. 5-inch metal strappy heels for $35! 5. A pair of Chanel clogs. Before the Germans discover the crocs. Hit me back when you get a chance to peel away from the mag. Yours, Martin On Mar 8, 2010, at 4:50pm, Adriano Sack wrote: Hey Martin, Re: Uniqlo: Non-shopping can be a necessity but never an ideology. Re: Gifts: I opt for 1, 2, and 5. And some knitwear by Tom Scott. Re: Next season: what will be the smartest shape and why? And what happened to the dream couple, art & fashion? Whispering Foxes, 2009 Enlighten me! by nils dunkel / username: dunkel Yours, Adriano 261