Idpms - design development workshop 2005 - group 2


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Idpms - design development workshop 2005 - group 2

  1. 1. Contents1. Introduction 12. Innaguration 23. About IDPMS 34. Sisal Fibre 55. Approach and Design intrevention 76. Learning in the workshop 87. Design Workshop 108. Products Developed 139. Participants 2310. Conclusion 2511. Recomendations 2612. About Designer 2713. Acknowledgements. 29
  2. 2. INTRODUCTION1: The people of Tenkal mole and Badagala mole Near Kuderu, Chamarajanagar Dist, are mainly in to agricultural labor and in rope making craft. Sisal is abundantly available in the area and the people are involved in makig ropes to sell in the local weekly markets. These ropes are sold in bundles and are used for Tenkal mole Village tieing cattle , bullock cart etc. The demand for sisal rope is limited and therefore the people have started making ropes from the plastic Cement bags. The Bags are ripped apart in strands and then the strands are spun into ropes that are approximately 8mm in diameter. Four of these ropes are twisted together to form a thick rope. Ropemaking in Tenkal mole In the villages, children and ladies are involved in the stripping of strands and the spinning of rope is done by the men folk. This way it is a good team work and at the end of the day the women are able to earn Rs.15 to 25, and that is how the life goes on. The market now recognises the plastic rope and sisal is less and less to be seen in the markets. Ready plastic ropes 1
  3. 3. INNAGURATION : Mr. S.C.Devaramani, A.D. MNSEC, Mysore, Mr. S.Sadananda, Director IDPMS, Mr. Seshaprasad, Cluster manager IDPMS, Mr. Chandrasekhar, ADS, Kuderu, Mr. Honappa, ADS, Kuderu, Mr. M.N.Mangalore SI and Designer Mr. Karthikeyan Balaraman, Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan Were present at the inaugural function at Innaguration of the workshop Kuderu, Chamarajnagar Dist, on 14 March 2005, at 11:30 am. Mr. Devarmani spoke about the new opportunity that is in front of the artisans. He suggested that the participants should learn come forward to learn the new Designs. He mentioned about the support provided by AHVY: a scheme to the SHG’s to generate income and contribute to the economic growth. Mr. S.Sadananda addressed the participants about the purpose of the design development workshop and the seriusness that was expected from each artisan. He said that this is a opportunity to learn new techniques and that the emphasis should be on learning. He spoke about the various programmes taken up by IDPMS , and the continual support of the artisans in the entire development programme . Mr. Sadananda thanked the DC (H) for providing such an effective Programme for the rural Participnts of workshop artisans. 2
  4. 4. About IDPMS: IDPMS started functioning in 1988, and it as jointly established by the Govt. Of Karnataka and the Govt. of Netherlands. At the time it was known as Indo Dutch Project Management Society. IDPMS worked with various development projects situated in Karnataka, and working through these projects, the organization gained experience and considerable knowledge and helped into its transformation into a resource organization. The array of knowledge includes issues for sustainable livelihood, Women empowerment, Information systems, Environment and conservation. IDPMS which truly means Initiatives for D evelopment through P articipation of Marginalized Sections, is committed to the economic growth of the rural poor. IDPMS has been instrumental in formation of Self help groups for the past 15 years. Mysore, Chamarajnagar, Bellary and Bidar, Havery and Gadag districts have been covered under the operations. 5300 women involved in over 335 Self Help Groups has been formed in the guidance of IDPMS and presently more than 200 artisans in the sisal fiber craft , in and around Kuderumole in Chamarajanagar Dist, have been covered under this umbrella. Existing products 3
  5. 5. The current activities of IDPMS are: · Skill trainings and Design development activities in the field of Handicrafts · Training programme on Micro enterprise development, PRA, Personality Development etc, · Guidance to Micro Enterprise, · Formation of SHG’s and their successful operations, · Strengthening of the local support agencies ;Gram panchayat, ngo’s etc. · Networking of SHG’s, · Establishing access to formal credit organizations, · Training and orientation of banking Personnel. · Market related services; linkages, up scaling of enterprises operations, · Gender sensitization programme, · Technology Development and Data Bank Services, · Income generation activities in craft areas, and other activities. · Monitoring, Evaluation and Documentation,Existing products · Counciling for enterprise activities. 4
  6. 6. SISAL FIBRE: Agriculture is the main source of livelihood in and around Kuderu.Sisal fibre is a large genius of short stemmed, woody plants bearing a rosette of long, erect, pointed, fleshy leaves. About 275 pieces are distributed in tropical regions. The Portuguese introduced agave in India in the 15th century. They are completely naturalized throughout the country. Sisal is grown in widely in India. It is small greenish gray hedge plant. The leaves have a thorn at the tip and grows up to a height of4-5 feet. These leaves yield valuable fibre. Sisal is locally called as katthale & Bhoothale its Botanical name is Agave sisalana and it is locally available in Chamarajnagar dist. The propagation happens by removing and re- rooting the suckers. Sisal fibre is a very strong, Lustrous natural fibre and can take wear and tear very well. Sisal is commonly used for marine ropes. Sisal is the favorite world wide for floor coverings it is the most preferred natural fibre Sisal Growth due to its clean smooth& shiny surface texture. The most known application of sisal is ropes for local use. 5
  7. 7. India exports sisal floor covering products from Kerala and all fibre is Imported from Tanzania and china. Indian sisal is yet to gain its entry Into the export market. Sisal is being extracted in Ananthpur (AP), Utharanchal, seoni (MP), Gokak (Karnataka) &Kanyakumari (TN). Sisal is used for making rops, cordage and twines.It’s also used for making hub cleaning fancy brushes used in bicycle. Sisal Fibre Sisal fibre is available locally for Rs 10-15 per kg. and is generally sold in unwashed state. The local people buy it for making ropes and it is used generally in the same condition. More and more extraction machines are being put in the district and that is facilitating the sourcing of the fibre by the village in the Sisal Plant 6
  8. 8. APPROACH FOR DESIGN INTERVENTION: Since the number of artisans is more and the skill levels are average, the initial efforts were to introduce the concept of fineness, use of spinning skills to produce finer yarns with sisal fiber. . The products should mainly be for the local markets and exhibitions countrywide. Using new techniques for the products, using techniques that requires low skills and using the colour combinations that appeal to the masses, would be the most appropriate approach for this workshop. The blend of Sisal with other materials like Banana bark,which is abundant in the neighborhood, bamboo, Plastic rope which is common packing material, and cotton yarns, would give interesting results. The use of the available technology for spinning of sisal, and different method of producing yarns would add more value to the end products. Traditional braids when made using good colours and tight structure, can be very interesting and durable. 7
  9. 9. NEW TECHNIQUES INTRODUCED IN THE WORKSHOP: Multiple Strand Braiding: The usual braiding technique involves three plies and the resultant braid is usually a rounder and heavier braid. The four, five and six strand braids were tried out for better stiffness, appeal and light weight. The traditional way of hand spinning brought back, to make the fine Sisal twines, suitable for weaving and fine coiling. Tie and Dye : Sisal fibre is usually dyed with plain shades, this is made more interesting with the traditional Tie and Dye technique using rubber tubes to tie the fibre bunch and dyeing to achieve amazing tie – dyed effects. Fibre Stitching: Using the fibre waste, opening them up and spreading on the newspaper, stitching across it, and then soaking the stitched layer in water to dissolve paper. This technique gave excellent results and opened up a possibility of a new range of products that can be developed from the fibre waste. 8
  10. 10. Embroidery:Embroidery with sisal fibre on Cotton fabric forfashion and fashion accessories. This producesinteresting results.Frame weaving:On a 17” wooden frame, weaving was tried withsisal, banana bark, using he braids and sisal twineswere tried out. Working with banana bark 9
  11. 11. Design Development: The braids were made blending two or three colour fibres and that gave a very interesting surface effect. The natural palette is followed and therefore the Products have a vey natural look, the colours are more of minaral shades. Five and four strand braids have been prepared using plastic and sisal blends and also only sisal. The mix of material was also tried out and the available materials like Plastic packing cord and banna bark were used. Embroidery is a skill that is found every where and Kuderu is no exception. Using the Sisal Fibre, Khadi fabric was embellished and used to make items like bags, coasters. The feel and look of this style is very new and is equally promising. 10
  12. 12. Some frame weaving was also done and a conceptwhere a long braid is used to make up a singleproduct was tried. The result is a veryinteresting bag, and the simple frame used givesease of working and the shape of the finalproduct.Continuing on the same lines the same conceptwas tried on a wire frame , where in the wiremesh is removed after weaving of the bag andresult is a one piece , sturdy bag. 11
  13. 13. One interesting Product was developed from Fibre waste lying around , All the waste was gathered , opened up properly, spread in between two layers of News papers and stitched up from the top , forming checkered layers. The stitched newspaper was then soaked in water to remove the paper and the resultant as a non woven, stitched fibre layer. The interesting colours makes an excellent surface for use in bags, screens etc. The bags were stitched with foam leather and cloth lining. The light weight and the dramatic texture of the non woven fibre layer works very well for a fancy bag.Stitched up fibre Some Banana bark was braided with sisal and used for making a traditional braid bag. The light weight of the Banana bark keeps the bag light and the unique texture of surface makes the product very interesting. The artisans also made products on formed surfaces like pots. One bag was also made on a earthen pot and the round shape is retained very well by the braid giving a fancy look and structure to the bag. Sisal and plastic blended braid when woven on a wire frame , gave a very light weight and sturdy bag. Round and sqare frames were used for these bags. In all the stitching thread has been replaced with fibre and that makes the end product neat and strong. 12
  14. 14. Products of the workshop01 Beach bag 02 Holi Bag 13
  15. 15. Products of the workshop03 Lambani Bag 04 Madke Bag 14
  16. 16. Products of the workshop05 Melange Plate Bag 06 Peach Bag 15
  17. 17. Products of the workshop07 Forest Bag 08 Frame Bag 16
  18. 18. Products of the workshop09 Embroidered Costers 10 Coin Purse 17
  19. 19. Products of the workshop11 Fruit Bowl 12 Floor Mat 18
  20. 20. Products of the workshop13 Peach Long Bag 14 Pot 19
  21. 21. Products of the workshop15 Rag Bag 16 Round Mat 20
  22. 22. Products of the workshop17 Cusion Cover 18 Key Chain 21
  23. 23. Products of the workshop19 Granit 20 Maize Bag 22
  24. 24. PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP: Shivamma,Siddamma, Chowadamma, Mahadevamma, Manjula,Lakshamma, Gowarmma, Rangamma, Dodamma & Chikka theyyamma. Putamma,Madamma ,Mahadevamma,Siddamma,Mahadevi,Mahesi,Puttamma Basamma,Mahadevamma&Shivangamma. Rojamma, Puttabasamma,Chikkamahadevamma,Neelamma,Siddamma, Dundamma.Ratnamma,Puttananjamma, Anakamma & Rajamma. 23
  25. 25. Name of the artisan Village Caste1 Shivamma w/o Mahadevsetty Badagalamole OBC2 Siddamma w/o Basaasetty Badagalamole OBC3 Chowadamma w/o Morisiddasetty Badagalamole OBC4 Manjula w/o Basavanna Badagalamole OBC5 Lakshamma w/o Madhsetty Badagalamole OBC6 Mahadevamma w/o Kempasety Badagalamole OBC7 Gowarmma w/o Mahadevsetty Badagalamole OBC8 Rangamma w/o Chowdasetty Badagalamole OBC9 Dodamma w/o Siddasety Badagalamole OBC10 Chikka theyyamma w/o Mahadevsetty Badagalamole OBC11 Putamma w/o Puttasetty Badagalamole OBC12 Madamma w/o Puttannasetty Badagalamole OBC13 Mahadevamma w/o Ranagasetty Badagalamole OBC14 Siddamma w/o Ramesh Badagalamole OBC15 Mahadevi w/o Rachasetty Badagalamole OBC16 Mahesi w/o Sommana Tenkalmole OBC17 Puttamma w/o Hanumantanaik Tenkalmole OBC18 Basamma w/o Govindasetty Tenkalmole OBC19 Mahadevamma w/o Nanjasetty Tenkalmole OBC20 Shivangamma w/o Shivananjasetty Tenkalmole OBC21 Rojamma w/o chikkasiddsetty Tenkalmole OBC22 Puttabasamma w/o Doddamahadevsetty Tenkalmole OBC23 Chikkamahadevamma w/o Nanjasetty Tenkalmole OBC24 Neelamma w/o Puttaswamy Tenkalmole OBC25 Siddamma w/o Nagasetty Tenkalmole OBC26 Dundamma w/o Madhsetty Tenkalmole OBC27. Ratnamma w/o Basasetty Tenkalmole OBC28. Puttananjamma w/o Madasetty Tenkalmole OBC29 Anakamma w/o Nanjasetty Tenkalmole OBC30 Rajamma w/o Mahadevasetty Tenkalmole OBC 24
  26. 26. Conclusion: Participants in the workshop, felt that the workshop opened up their minds and the new possibility is now seen in the Sisal craft. It was a good time to work out different alternatives with braiding and multiple colour braids. The dying also added flavors to the designs. Mr. Devarmani, A.D. felt that this is a very good beginning and it should be taken ahead very seriously by the artisans. Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, AGM, NABARD Chamarajanagar , was happy to see such good work done by the participants and he encouraged the artisans to put in their sincere efforts. Mr. S.C. Devaramani , Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan (Consultant Designer), and Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, Mr. Seshaprasad, cluster manager, IDPMS, were present in the concluding session that ended with an interactive session with the artisans. Overall it was a good interaction and it was felt that there should be serious follow-ups. 25
  27. 27. Recommendations: 1. The artisans should be exposed to the other groups doing work with fibres and that would open up new ideas for working with similar materials. 2. The marketing support needs to be built up for the groups so that they have regular work and they produce articles that sell well. 3. The Design workshop should be given to the artisans at least once in a year and the same artisans should be trained further, and then these artisans should continue the work shop for another 15 days training the new artisans in the newly developed products. 4. There needs to be basic machinery for cleaning and opening up of the fibres for better utilization of the raw material and better finish of the Products. 5. The basic skill training must be made more intense and the different techniques that are used in other natural fibres such as spinning, knotting, multi braids, crochet and macramé etc. 6. The groups should be encouraged to prepare a stock of the good designs that are developed in the design workshop, and these should be taken to the market as early as possible. 7. Simple Dyeing machines should be made available for cost effective and good quality of dyeing of the fibre. 8. The mixed material approach for the products should be encouraged and more and more developments should be taken up with mix of natural fibres. 26
  28. 28. ResumeKarthik 31 Hartington Road Brighton BN2 3LJ 01273 604540PROFESSIONAL QUALIFICATIONS • 1997-2000………. National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, India AEPEP Textile design • 1994- 1997……. Govt College of Arts and Crafts, Chennai, India. B.Sc. Industrial Design in Textiles • 1992 -1994…….. Govt College of Arts and Crafts, Chennai, India. Integrated preparatory coursePROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES • Consultant designer for Parry Murray, London • Free lance designer for Sylvie Martel Designs, London • 2 years with Bharat Tissus, India as a designer in jacquard and dobby for furnishings from 2001- 2003. • 3 months as a contract designer with Chamundi silks, India and developed a range of fabrics using indigenous silk yarns in jacquards and dobby -2003 • 2 months as a consultant for Pathi silks, India -2003 • 6 months working in the craft sector with Industree Craft and Craft Council of India as a contract designer for their Natural fibre project in South India. • 6 months as a designer for XYLEM, India for their project using textile sensibilities on handmade paper. 27
  29. 29. ResumeCOMPUTER PROFICIENCY ● Ned Graphics (Dobby / Jacquard / carpets) ● Wilcom ● Soph ● Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Page Maker ● Windows, MS Of Excel, Power Point, etc) ● Corel DrawDESIGN PROJECTS WOVEN APPAREL Spring/Summer 2000 men’s casual wear collection Client: Marks and Spencer’s, UK INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Developed a range of nightwear for Autumn/Winter 2000/01 for Mafatlal Industries Limited, Ahmedabad, India. Client: Marks and Spencer’s, UK INTERIORS Developed concepts for space layout, furniture and textile elements for the Mill-Owners Association, Ahmedabad. Designed and produced all interior textile elements for Vedic Village Holiday Resort, Calcutta, India
  30. 30. Acknowledgement and credits: Designer : Karthikeyan Balaraman Design associates: Mr. Devaraj Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan MNSEC, Mysore: Mr. S.C Devarmani, A.D. NABARD, Chamarajnagar: Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, AGM IDPMS : Mr. S. Sadanand Ms. Geetha Mr. Sesha prasad Ms. Parvati Mr. Ramesh Mr. Nagaraj Mr. Siddhappa And all the others at IDPMS . 29