Idpms design development in sisal 2006


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Idpms design development in sisal 2006

  1. 1. DESIGN DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP IN SISAL CRAFT 16 th to 30th January 2006 at Kuderu, Chamarajnagar Dist. Sponsered by: The office of Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, West Block No.7, R.K.Puram, New Delhi 110 066 Conducted by: IDPMS 440, 6th Cross, 7th Block, Jayanagar West, Bangalore 560 082
  2. 2. CONTENTS 1. Introduction 1 2. Inauguration 2 3. About IDPMS 3 4. Sisal Fibre 5 5. Approach and Design intrevention 6 5. Design Workshop 8 6. The workshop 12 7. Products Developed 14 8. Participants 26 9. Conclusion 30 10. Recomendations 29 11. About Designer 31 12. Acknowledgements. 34
  3. 3. INTRODUCTION : This is the fourth design workshop for the artisans in this area and there has been enough products made using the traditional way and the skills in the traditional way.This time the effort has been to take the artisans with varied skills and produce some designs that would interest the artisans as well as the market. In the previous workshops ,efforts are made to use the material using same technique of braiding, and revolving around the same products.The artisans also ask for change, and it has been considered for this workshop. The artisans in this workshop have come from various skill background, apart from the usual sisal braids and ropes , they also work with nylon and other fancy material, for making bags and show peices. The Products developed during the last Design development workshop 1
  4. 4. INAUGURATION : The inaugural function was organised in the Kuderu Jr. College premises, Kuderu Chamarajnagar Dist, on 16th Jan 2006, at 11:30 am. The following were the people present at the opening function; Mr. Ramakrishna suggested that the participants should learn new skills and come up with new products. He pointed out the support provided the Government to the artisans and that People contribute to the economic growth of the region. Mr. Seshaprasad spoke to the participants about the purpose of the design development workshop. He insisted that the artisan group should take advantage of the opportunity provided to them and work hard to make good products that they can sell well. Mr. Shekar Singh spoke to the artisans and also advised them to work hard in these fifteen days and reap the benefits later. Mr. Shekar Singh, MNSEC, Mysore, Sri Ramakrishna, Principal, Jr. College Kuderu,Sri Vijay Kumar, Vice principal , Jr. college Kuderu,Mr. Seshaprasad, Cluster manager IDPMS,Ms. Pushpalatha , IDPMS, Chamarajanagar and Designer Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan. The inaugural function 2
  5. 5. ABOUT IDPMS: IDPMS which truly means Initiatives for Development through Participation of Marginalized Sections, is committed to the economic growth of the rural poor. IDPMS started functioning in 1988, and it as jointly established by the Govt. Of Karnataka and the Govt. of Netherlands. At the time it was known as Indo Dutch Project Management Society. IDPMS worked with various development projects situated in Karnataka, and working through these projects, the organization gained experience and considerable knowledge and helped into its transformation into a resource organization. The array of knowledge includes issues for sustainable livelihood, Women empowerment, Information systems, Environment and conservation. IDPMS has been instrumental in formation of Self help groups for the past 15 years. Mysore, Chamarajnagar, Bellary and Bidar, Havery and Gadag districts have been covered under the operations. 5300 women involved in over 335 Self Help Groups has been formed in the guidance of IDPMS and presently more than 200 artisans in the sisal fiber craft , in and around Kuderumole in Chamarajanagar Dist, have been covered under this umbrella. The current activities of IDPMS are: • Skill trainings and Design development activities in the field of Handicrafts • Training programme on Micro enterprise development, PRA, Personality Development etc, 3
  6. 6. • Guidance to Micro Enterprise, • Formation of SHG’s and their successful operations, • Strengthening of the local support agencies ;Gram panchayat, ngo’s etc. • Networking of SHG’s, • Establishing access to formal credit organizations, • Training and orientation of banking Personnel. • Market related services; linkages, up scaling of enterprises operations, • Gender sensitization programme, • Technology Development and Data Bank Services, • Income generation activities in craft areas, and other activities. • Monitoring, Evaluation and Documentation, • Counciling for enterprise activities. Apart from this IDPMS has started an initiative for marketing called “AARAMBH” that is begining of the collective efforts for marketing of the produce of the rural artisan. Exhibitionsl are conducted under this initiative and it has been a good support for the producer groups. Some of the products made by the craft groups 4
  7. 7. ABOUT SISAL FIBRE: The Portuguese introduced agave in India in the 15th century. They are completely naturalized throughout the country. Sisal is grown in widely in India. It is small greenish gray hedge plant. The leaves have a thorn at the tip and grows up to a height of4-5 feet. These leaves yield valuable fibre. Sisal is locally called as katthale & Bhoothale its Botanical name is Agave sisalana and it is locally available in Chamarajnagar dist. Sisal fibre is a large genius of short stemmed, woody plants bearing a rosette of long, erect, pointed, fleshy leaves. About 275 spieces are distributed in tropical regions.The propagation happens by removing and re-rooting the suckers. Sisal fibre is Avery strong, Lustrous natural fibre and can take wear and tear very well. Sisal is the favorite world wide for floor coverings it is the most preferred natural fibre due to its clean smooth& shiny surface texture The most known application of sisal is ropes for local use. Sisal is being extracted in Ananthpur (AP), Utharanchal, seoni (MP), Gokak (Karnataka) & Kanyakumari (TN). Sisal is commonly used for marine ropes. cordage and twines.It’s also used for making hub cleaning fancy brushes used in bicycles. Sisal fibre is available locally for Rs 15-25 per kg. depending upon the season and the market requirements. 5
  8. 8. DESIGN INTERVENTION: The Design intervention for this group of artisans was planned with the past experience and the scenario in the Sisal sector. All the groups can only think of braided products, therefore to bring about some change, it was decided that we would work with other techniques where less fibre is consumed and more value is brought in to the product. With the existing skill levels, the initial efforts were to introduce the concept of fineness, use of spinning skills to produce finer yarns with sisal fiber. The products should mainly be for the local markets and exhibitions countrywide. Various techniques like weaving, coiling and stitching can be put together in order to get a novelty. The use of the available technology for spinning of sisal, and different method of producing yarns would add more value to the end products. The techniques like layering, stitching and using the fibre texture to most appealing uses , use of good colour combinations and new lifestyle products would be the direction for new products. 6
  9. 9. The artisans are having a skill background of rope making therefore can produce a variety of different ropes and cords that make the raw material of a range of fine and intricate products. The demand for sisal fiber products is ever growing in our county and it would be best to be working on the kind of Products that move fast and are required in good volumes. The blend of Sisal with other materials like Banana bark , which is abundant in the neighborhood, bamboo, Plastic rope which is common packing material, and cotton yarns. All such explorations are also a part of this workshop. 7 Workshop in progress
  10. 10. THE WORKSHOP: In the Workshop various techniques were used and many of them yeilded good results; Fine Yarn making: Using the knotted fibre in multiple ply a fine yarn can be made by using a rope spinner . This yarn has the strength and finish for use in high value products like woven material, floor and other interior woven fabrics. Fibre Stitching: Using the fibre waste, the fibres are layed on a news paper sheet , evenly spread , covered with another paper and then stitched over, with the help of sewing machine. This makes a good surface useful for many varied applications. Fibre knotting : This is the technique of getting a thin continuous long length by knotting the fibres together using a weavers knot. The continuous long length then can be used for producing a fine yarn that can later be used for weaving, knitting or any such applications 8
  11. 11. Fibre forms: As the name suggests, we took a balloon and over it wrapped the fibre and pasted with binding resin. This gave a perfect shape and form, and this technique was extended in getting other shapes also. Using plastic vessels , plastic sheet and resin, creating various forms that can be stable , and also building shapes around frames. This technique was extremely successful as the production is of high value and cost is low. Crochet: Crochet using the dyed sisal fibre to form laces and motifs for making bags and mats and other utility items , crochet on the wooden frames were done. This technique seemed to work very well and produced good results. The traditional technique of making rope by hand twisting was also used in the workshop. The raw material of the bags and baskets was made by this technique only. 9
  12. 12. Dyeing : Using the direct dyes six shades were produced for the products and these shades were developed according to the colour trends. The natural palette has been the basis of the shades and there are deep earth colours along with some mineral accents. Basket weaving : The technique of using frames for weaving stable forms , was tried out and found working very well, specially with the fine yarns. Paper backing: This is tried out to provide some stability to the fibre layers that are stitched to make bags and lamps. Firstly some paper pulp is taken in a big tub and then it is poured over a readily stitched layer, the resulting deposition of fibre. This is dried and is ready for use. 10
  13. 13. Square frames and round frames are taken and using the fine technique of ply-twist-weave , a very good finish is achieved. Though time taking, this technique is good for making a very durable, strong and finely finished form. Embroidery: Embroidery with sisal fibre on the non woven , stitched fibre layer, with fine rope for use in bags and accessories. Loom Weaving: Using the small loom, and four shafts, weaving was done on plastic warp , crating an interesting fabric for bags and mats. Further using sisal yarn produced on Medilary Charkha , and Banana bark rope, sisal and other yarns, Interesting fabrics were woven for use in bags, lamps and other interior applications. 11
  14. 14. WORKSHOP PHOTOES : 12
  15. 15. WORKSHOP PHOTOES : 13
  18. 18. NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED : 5 6 6” x 12” 6” x 9” SQUARE LAMP NET LAMP 16
  19. 19. NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED : 7 8 11” 12 x 16” DRUM LAMP AUTUMN LAMP 17
  22. 22. 7” 12” X 18” NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED : BOWL 13 TABLE MATS 14 20
  23. 23. 15 3” X8” X6” 16 2.5” X 7”X 6” NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED : SPRING BAG FOREST BAG 21
  25. 25. 19 9” to 11” NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED : FIBRE BAGS NEWSPAPER STAND 4”x12”x18”20 23
  27. 27. COSTING OF THE DEVELOPED PRODUCTS : No. Name of the Product Cost 1 Oval lamp Rs. 50.00 2 Dome Lamp Rs.100.00 3 Leaf lamp Rs.150.00 4 Bamboo Lamp Rs. 88.00 5 square lamp Rs.100.00 6 Net lamp Rs.120.00 7 Drum Lamp Rs.115.00 8 Autumn Lamp Rs.200.00 9 Loofah Rs. 30.00 10 Body Scrub Rs. 25.00 11 Square scrub Rs. 25.00 12 Mobile pouch Rs. 30.00 13 Bowl Rs. 42.00 14 Table mats Rs.120.00 15 Spring bag Rs.150.00 16 Forest Bag Rs.150.00 17 Crochet bags Rs.120.00 18 Leaf bowl Rs. 85.00 19 Fibre bags Rs. 85.00 20 Newspaper stand Rs.158.00 25
  28. 28. Name of the artisan Village Caste 1 Sakamma w/o Javaravsetty Tenkalmole OBC 2 Basavarajama w/o S.R.setty Tenkalmole OBC 3 Chandramma w/o Basavaraju Tenkalmole OBC 4 Chikmahadevamma w/o Nanjasetty Tenkalmole OBC 5 Mahdevamma w/o Rachasetty Tenkalmole OBC 6 Shivamma w/o Madshetty Tenkalmole OBC 7 Nagamma w/o B.D.setty Tenkalmole OBC 8 Pathamma w/o Hanumanthanaik Tenkalmole OBC 9 S.Madamma w/o Mahadevasetty Tenkalmole OBC 10 Basamma w/o Sanmadsetty Tenkalmole OBC 11 Sidhamma w/o Nagasetty Tenkalmole OBC 12 Puttabasamma w/o Doddasetty Tenkalmole OBC 13 Pushpamba w/o Srikantaswamy Kuderu OBC 14 Sheela w/o Shanmugaswmy Kuderu OBC 15 Pavitra w/o Shivanagappa Kuderu OBC 16 Latha w/o Basavaraju Kuderu OBC 17 Bramharamba w/o Chikabasavanna Kuderu OBC 18 Kantaveni w/o Nagasundar Kuderu OBC 19 Susila w/o Prakasha Kuderu OBC 20 Siddhamma W/o Ramesha Kuderumole OBC 21 Shivamma w/o Mahadevasetty Badagalamole OBC 22 Doddamma w/o Sidhasetty Badagalamole OBC 23 Sanamma w/o Sidhasetty Badagalamole OBC 24 Chndramma w/o Mahesha Badagalamole OBC 25 Rajamma w/o Mahadevasetty Badagalamole OBC 26 Putamma w/o Puttasetty Badagalamole OBC 27 Sakamma w/o Madasetty Badagalamole OBC 28 Manjula w/o Nagendraswamy Kuderu Ling* 29 Sashirekha w/o Govraja Kuderu SC 30 Shivamma w/o Malliah Kuderu SC PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP: * - Lingayata 26
  29. 29. PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP: Sakamma,Basavarajamma,Chandramma,Chikmahadevamma and Mahadevamma Shivamma, Nagamma, Pathamma, S Madamma and Basamma Sidhamma, Puttabasamma, Pushpamba, Sheela and Pavitra 27
  30. 30. PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP: Putamma, Sakamma,Manjula,Sasirekha and Shivamma Shivamma, Dodamma, Sanamma, Chanramma and Rajamma Latha, Bramharamba,Kantaveni,Susila and Siddhamma 28
  31. 31. 1. The artisans are from the background of rope making, and therefore it would be more appropriate to develop and refine the skills of spinning, fine twine making for these artisans. 2. The demand for hand spun twines is good in the domestic and the export market; therefore it would be good if twines and yarns could be the end products. 3. The medilary charkha is quite useful in twine and fine cord making, and all the artisans should be trained on it. 4. Sisal fibre lends itself very well to weaving and basic floor covering structures should be developed along with the fabrics for accessories on simple looms. 5. The skill development programmes conducted should be focused and the products from the workshop should be taken to be taught to the artisans. 6. Some products from the design workshop should be selected for bulk production and artisans should be advised to produce a stock of the designs at least 24 pieces each design. This would ensure that the products are tested in the market and the groups have sufficient stock of products whenever any fair is there. 7. There needs to be continual market support programme that helps the artisans to produce what market needs and have a continuous flow of work. Recommendations: 29
  32. 32. CONCLUSION : As it happens every time, the end of the workshop time; all the participants felt that there should have been more time with them. Many new products and techniques were evolved. The new possibilites with the fibre and getting away from the traditional conversion technique of braiding; brought in more hopes. The participants were eager to do more designs and were looking forward to taking orders and taking up production for the designs done during the workshop. Some of the participants were wanting to learn the basic yarn preparation and dyeing so that the dependecy for the prepared raw material is not there for them. Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan (Consultant Designer), Mr. Seshaprasad, cluster manager, IDPMS, MS. Pushpalatha, , addressed the participants and encouraged them on their efforts. On the whole , the workshop was a success once again and has brought in new possibilities in Sisal craft. It is indeed the begininng ... The concluding day Participant’s Interaction 30
  33. 33. ABOUT THE DESIGNER : RAJSHEKHAR NARAYAN 87/133, Govindappa road, Basavanagudi . Bangalore 560 004, Karnataka E-Mail : Telephone : 080 51203950 Mobile 9448119950 Working with design; especially with woven textiles & handicrafts,. likes to work with material and surface textures for the woven fabrics, design and product development in Handicrafts, a special interest in visual merchandising, documentation, digital cataloging, networking and market development EMPLOYMENT HISTORY National Institute of Design Bangalore Coordinator (1998 - 2001) Responsible for managing the office, identifying the problem areas in the region ; proposing and conducting design development workshops and training programmes, working with the handicraft sector and leading the craft design activities, developing new contacts, skill and product development workshops, and business for design consultancy Silktex Ltd. Bangalore Design Manager (1997 - 1998) Responsible for conceptualising collections of furnishings and dress materials, overall management and coordination of design studio. Supervision of sampling on Dobby and Jacquard looms, new developments, customer needs and day to day production requirements. JJSpectrum Silks Limited Calcutta Design Manager (1996 - 1997) Responsible for development of new design collections, standardising woven qualities, coordination and management of the design studio, supervising sampling, Market and trend analysis for the silk furnishings and dress material market. JJ Exporters Ltd. Calcutta Chief Designer (1993 - 1996) Responsible for conceptualising design collections of silk dress materials, overall coordination of developments. 31
  34. 34. Orion Corporation Bangalore Coordinator sourcing and development (1992 - 1993) Smilee Fashions Bangalore Designer (1991 - 1992) In charge of design and development of dress material using natural dyes andHand block printing and indigenous craftsmanship EDUCATION NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DESIGN, Ahmedabad Post Graduate Diploma in Textile Design 1991 National Institute of Design is Asia’s one of the premier institute for design education. The three year post graduate course included surface design, design and techniques of woven and knitted fabrics, craft documentation and design, ornamentation techniques, computer aided design, photography, graphic design, practical experience through industrial placements formed an integral part of the diploma. Indian Institute of Handloom Technology Varanasi Diploma in Handloom Technology 1988 Course curriculum included technology of weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing. Practical experience on Handloom, powerloom, dyeing and printing was integral part of the course. Syed Burhanuddin silver jublee Quadaria College, Burhanpur Bachelor of Science 1985 (two years) The two-year course had physics, chemistry and Mathematics as the major Subjects and English as first language. SKILLS Weaving, jacquard design, Jacquard weaving, print designs, furnishing design, made-ups design, silk fabrics design, sourcing of fabrics, sample presentation (header, folders, display etc.), visual Merchandising, sample photography, hand and machine embroidery, interior space design, handicraft design, curriculum for skill and design workshops, Documentation and teaching.Working Knowledge of SOPHIS and NEDGRAPHICS (weaving software),PageMaker, Photoshop, Coral Draw, Photo impact, MS office, Dreamweaver and Flash for graphics, communication and product design. ABOUT THE DESIGNER : 32
  35. 35. ABOUT THE DESIGNER : Since year 2001 various handicraft design development projects have been undertaken : • Survey of Natural Fibers in Kerala and Tamilnadu; an intensive planned survey in the two states, a study in the Philippines and a exhaustive documentation • Design and development of Sisal Fiber products; for IDPMS working with the craft groups in Mysore and Chamarajanagar. • Design development for Bamboo products: For CARD, Angamali 2002 • Design and development of Natural fibre product at Kanyakumari: RDTDC 2001 • Design and development of Pillow lace Products for SEDA, Aalaghaimandapam 2001 • Design and development of Screwpine products: Talayolaparambu 2002 • Design and development of Palm stem and other natural fibres, for Anavoor mahila Samajam, Anavoor – 2002 • Design development workshop for Coir and other natural fibres for Coir Board, CCRI, Kalavoor, 2003 • Design and development of Palm leaf product: for Chaitanya Jyothi Nellore 2005 • Design and development of Fabric Painting: at Naidupeta for Chaitanya Jyothi Welfare Society Nellore 2005 • Design and development workshop for Sisal and other natural fibres; at Kuderu, Chamarajnagar, for IDPMS, Bangalore 2005 • Design of Screwpine products for KIDS, Kottapuram, Jan 2005 • Design and development of Jute weaving for RDS Murugod, Dec 2005 • Design Development for bamboo products, RDTDC Mysore Nov 2005 • Design development for Leather puppets at Nimmalakunta, for RES, Hindupur 2005 • Design development for Cane and Bamboo, at Mysore , for RDTDC, tech wing, Nov 2005 • Design development for Tanjavur art Plates at Tanjavur, RDTDC, Bangalore Jan 2006 Apart from the consultancies, teaching assignments are a part of the work: visiting Faculty at NID Ahmedabad and Srishti in Bangalore. Languages known: Hindi, English, Kannada and Bengali. 33
  36. 36. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS : Designer : Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan Design associates: Mr. Karthikeyan B MNSEC, Mysore: Mr. S.C Devarmani, A.D. Mr. Shekar Singh, NABARD, Chamarajnagar: Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, AGM IDPMS : Mr. S. Sadanand Ms. Geetha Mr. Sesha prasad Ms. Pushpalatha Mr. Nagaraj Mr. Manohar Mr. Siddhappa And all the others at IDPMS . 34