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Sleeves, skirts, pants

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Terminology 3 lecture

Terminology 3 lecture

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  • Cuff: An extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms.
  • Transcript

    • 1. Terminology 3 Sleeves, Skirts, & Pants
    • 2. Sleeve
      • The part of an item of clothing that covers the arm
        • As part of the main garment pieces: All-in-one sleeve
        • Cut separately and set into the armhole of the garment: Set-in sleeve
        • The seam extends from the neck to the underarm : Raglan sleeve
    • 3. Set-in sleeves
      • Dropped/Dropped shoulder : Shoulder of garment extended over upper arm
      • Bell : Sleeve made narrow at the top, set into normal armhole, and flaring at lower edge like a bell
    • 4. Set-in sleeves (cont’d)
      • Trumpet : Fit into natural armhole, falling straight to elbow where it flares in the shape of a trumpet
      Juliet : Long sleeve with short puffed top, fitted on lower arm.
    • 5. Set-in sleeves (Cont’d)
      • Shirt : Tailored wrist-length sleeve. A band or cuff at the wrist
      Puff : Short sleeve gathered, either at the armhole or at the cuff band or both
    • 6. Bishop : Full sleeve set into normal armhole and gathered into band at wrist Leg-of-mutton : Sleeve with full top gathered or pleated into armhole and tapered to wrist where it looks like a regular sleeve Set-in sleeves (Cont’d)
    • 7. Cuffs
      • Definition
        • Band
        • French vs. Single
        • Roll-up
    • 8. Cuffs
      • Band : Simplest type of cuff made from a separate piece of fabric. Usually elastic or a woven strip large enough to slip your hand through
      • Shirt cuff : Two small pleats set into a cuff. Has a placket opening. Cuff overlaps with snaps or buttons. The number of buttons can vary
    • 9.
      • French : The cuff has gathers or pleats at the wrist and folds back onto itself
      • Single : Contrast to a French cuff, no section doubled back on itself
      Cuffs (Cont’d)
    • 10. Cuffs (Cont’d)
      • Roll-up : extension of the sleeve that is folded over several times to form a cuff
      • Turn-back : Turned-back extension of the sleeve. Sleeve is cut longer and a section is turned up to form a cuff
    • 11. All-in-one sleeves
      • Dolman : Fitted at wrist but cut with deep armhole.
      Kimono : Shoulder of garment extended over upper arm
    • 12. All-in-one sleeves (Cont’d)
      • Cap : Small extension cut on the front and back sections of a blouse that covers the shoulder
    • 13. Raglan Sleeves
      • Raglan : A sleeve in which the seam extends from the neck to the underarm
      Saddle : Form a saddle over the shoulder. Raglan variation.
    • 14.
      • A-line : Slightly flared
      • Pencil : knee-length skirt shape, close fitting from hip to hem.
      Skirts - Basic
    • 15.
      • Wrap : Open from waist to hem. Wraps around the body .
      Skirts - Basic (Cont’d)
      • Peg-top : Full at the waistline with darts, gathers, or small unpressed pleats, becoming very narrow at hem.
    • 16. Skirts - full skirts
      • Gathered : Fabric gathered at the top, and attached to a waist band or bodice of dress
      • Flared : fitted at the waist, fuller at the hem.
    • 17. Skirts - full skirts (Cont’d)
      • Bubble : Ballooning out and tapered in at hem.
      • Gored : Fits through the waistline and flared at the hem. Made of from 4 to 24 shaped sections
    • 18. Skirts -full skirts(Cont’d)
      • Circular : butting a semicircle out of a piece of fabric folded lengthwise
      • Godet : a triangular piece of fabric inserted upward from the hem of the skirt to give more fullness
    • 19. Skirts - full skirts (Cont’d)
      • Handkerchief : Hemline cut to fall in points as if made of handkerchiefs.
      • Tiered : Straight-lined skirt with a series of flounces.
    • 20.  
    • 21. Pants
      • Chino : Washable sport pants made with a durable close-woven cotton
    • 22. Pants (Cont’d)
      • Culottes : Pants of any length cut to look like a skirt
      • Gaucho : Wide calf-length women’s pants
    • 23. Pants
      • Flares : Pants with slight flare at hem
      • Boot-cut : cut wide enough so that pants can be pulled on over western boots
    • 24.
      • Hipsters/Hip-huggers : Low-slung pants of any style starting below the normal waistline, usually with belt resting on hip bones.
      Pants (Cont’d)
    • 25. Pants (Cont’d)
      • Capri : Tight-fitting three-quarter-length pants, with short slit on outside of leg.
      • Overalls : Pants with a bib top and suspender straps over the shoulders that cross in back.
    • 26. Pants (Cont’d)
      • Cargo : Any pants with cargo pockets
      • Carpenter : Front/back pockets + loops and pockets for tools
    • 27. Pocket
      • Bellows : Outside pocket made with center box or inverted pleat that expands when pocket is used
      • Cargo : Large patch pocket used on shorts and pants. Curved top of pocket extends to waist and forms a loop through which belt is pulled.
    • 28. Pocket (Cont’d)
      • Welt : An inset pocket with the lower lip finished by an upstanding welt.
      • Kangaroo : Extra-large pocket placed on center front of garment

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