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Sleeves, skirts, pants

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Terminology 3 lecture

Terminology 3 lecture

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  • Cuff: An extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms.

Sleeves, skirts, pants Sleeves, skirts, pants Presentation Transcript

  • Terminology 3 Sleeves, Skirts, & Pants
  • Sleeve
    • The part of an item of clothing that covers the arm
      • As part of the main garment pieces: All-in-one sleeve
      • Cut separately and set into the armhole of the garment: Set-in sleeve
      • The seam extends from the neck to the underarm : Raglan sleeve
  • Set-in sleeves
    • Dropped/Dropped shoulder : Shoulder of garment extended over upper arm
    • Bell : Sleeve made narrow at the top, set into normal armhole, and flaring at lower edge like a bell
  • Set-in sleeves (cont’d)
    • Trumpet : Fit into natural armhole, falling straight to elbow where it flares in the shape of a trumpet
    Juliet : Long sleeve with short puffed top, fitted on lower arm.
  • Set-in sleeves (Cont’d)
    • Shirt : Tailored wrist-length sleeve. A band or cuff at the wrist
    Puff : Short sleeve gathered, either at the armhole or at the cuff band or both
  • Bishop : Full sleeve set into normal armhole and gathered into band at wrist Leg-of-mutton : Sleeve with full top gathered or pleated into armhole and tapered to wrist where it looks like a regular sleeve Set-in sleeves (Cont’d)
  • Cuffs
    • Definition
      • Band
      • French vs. Single
      • Roll-up
  • Cuffs
    • Band : Simplest type of cuff made from a separate piece of fabric. Usually elastic or a woven strip large enough to slip your hand through
    • Shirt cuff : Two small pleats set into a cuff. Has a placket opening. Cuff overlaps with snaps or buttons. The number of buttons can vary
    • French : The cuff has gathers or pleats at the wrist and folds back onto itself
    • Single : Contrast to a French cuff, no section doubled back on itself
    Cuffs (Cont’d)
  • Cuffs (Cont’d)
    • Roll-up : extension of the sleeve that is folded over several times to form a cuff
    • Turn-back : Turned-back extension of the sleeve. Sleeve is cut longer and a section is turned up to form a cuff
  • All-in-one sleeves
    • Dolman : Fitted at wrist but cut with deep armhole.
    Kimono : Shoulder of garment extended over upper arm
  • All-in-one sleeves (Cont’d)
    • Cap : Small extension cut on the front and back sections of a blouse that covers the shoulder
  • Raglan Sleeves
    • Raglan : A sleeve in which the seam extends from the neck to the underarm
    Saddle : Form a saddle over the shoulder. Raglan variation.
    • A-line : Slightly flared
    • Pencil : knee-length skirt shape, close fitting from hip to hem.
    Skirts - Basic
    • Wrap : Open from waist to hem. Wraps around the body .
    Skirts - Basic (Cont’d)
    • Peg-top : Full at the waistline with darts, gathers, or small unpressed pleats, becoming very narrow at hem.
  • Skirts - full skirts
    • Gathered : Fabric gathered at the top, and attached to a waist band or bodice of dress
    • Flared : fitted at the waist, fuller at the hem.
  • Skirts - full skirts (Cont’d)
    • Bubble : Ballooning out and tapered in at hem.
    • Gored : Fits through the waistline and flared at the hem. Made of from 4 to 24 shaped sections
  • Skirts -full skirts(Cont’d)
    • Circular : butting a semicircle out of a piece of fabric folded lengthwise
    • Godet : a triangular piece of fabric inserted upward from the hem of the skirt to give more fullness
  • Skirts - full skirts (Cont’d)
    • Handkerchief : Hemline cut to fall in points as if made of handkerchiefs.
    • Tiered : Straight-lined skirt with a series of flounces.
  •  
  • Pants
    • Chino : Washable sport pants made with a durable close-woven cotton
  • Pants (Cont’d)
    • Culottes : Pants of any length cut to look like a skirt
    • Gaucho : Wide calf-length women’s pants
  • Pants
    • Flares : Pants with slight flare at hem
    • Boot-cut : cut wide enough so that pants can be pulled on over western boots
    • Hipsters/Hip-huggers : Low-slung pants of any style starting below the normal waistline, usually with belt resting on hip bones.
    Pants (Cont’d)
  • Pants (Cont’d)
    • Capri : Tight-fitting three-quarter-length pants, with short slit on outside of leg.
    • Overalls : Pants with a bib top and suspender straps over the shoulders that cross in back.
  • Pants (Cont’d)
    • Cargo : Any pants with cargo pockets
    • Carpenter : Front/back pockets + loops and pockets for tools
  • Pocket
    • Bellows : Outside pocket made with center box or inverted pleat that expands when pocket is used
    • Cargo : Large patch pocket used on shorts and pants. Curved top of pocket extends to waist and forms a loop through which belt is pulled.
  • Pocket (Cont’d)
    • Welt : An inset pocket with the lower lip finished by an upstanding welt.
    • Kangaroo : Extra-large pocket placed on center front of garment