Trumpet : Fit into natural armhole, falling straight to elbow where it flares in the shape of a trumpet
Juliet : Long sleeve with short puffed top, fitted on lower arm.
Set-in sleeves (Cont’d)
Shirt : Tailored wrist-length sleeve. A band or cuff at the wrist
Puff : Short sleeve gathered, either at the armhole or at the cuff band or both
Bishop : Full sleeve set into normal armhole and gathered into band at wrist Leg-of-mutton : Sleeve with full top gathered or pleated into armhole and tapered to wrist where it looks like a regular sleeve Set-in sleeves (Cont’d)
French vs. Single
Band : Simplest type of cuff made from a separate piece of fabric. Usually elastic or a woven strip large enough to slip your hand through
Shirt cuff : Two small pleats set into a cuff. Has a placket opening. Cuff overlaps with snaps or buttons. The number of buttons can vary
French : The cuff has gathers or pleats at the wrist and folds back onto itself
Single : Contrast to a French cuff, no section doubled back on itself
Roll-up : extension of the sleeve that is folded over several times to form a cuff
Turn-back : Turned-back extension of the sleeve. Sleeve is cut longer and a section is turned up to form a cuff
Dolman : Fitted at wrist but cut with deep armhole.
Kimono : Shoulder of garment extended over upper arm
All-in-one sleeves (Cont’d)
Cap : Small extension cut on the front and back sections of a blouse that covers the shoulder
Raglan : A sleeve in which the seam extends from the neck to the underarm
Saddle : Form a saddle over the shoulder. Raglan variation.
A-line : Slightly flared
Pencil : knee-length skirt shape, close fitting from hip to hem.
Skirts - Basic
Wrap : Open from waist to hem. Wraps around the body .
Skirts - Basic (Cont’d)
Peg-top : Full at the waistline with darts, gathers, or small unpressed pleats, becoming very narrow at hem.
Skirts - full skirts
Gathered : Fabric gathered at the top, and attached to a waist band or bodice of dress
Flared : fitted at the waist, fuller at the hem.
Skirts - full skirts (Cont’d)
Bubble : Ballooning out and tapered in at hem.
Gored : Fits through the waistline and flared at the hem. Made of from 4 to 24 shaped sections
Skirts -full skirts(Cont’d)
Circular : butting a semicircle out of a piece of fabric folded lengthwise
Godet : a triangular piece of fabric inserted upward from the hem of the skirt to give more fullness
Skirts - full skirts (Cont’d)
Handkerchief : Hemline cut to fall in points as if made of handkerchiefs.
Tiered : Straight-lined skirt with a series of flounces.
Chino : Washable sport pants made with a durable close-woven cotton
Culottes : Pants of any length cut to look like a skirt
Gaucho : Wide calf-length women’s pants
Flares : Pants with slight flare at hem
Boot-cut : cut wide enough so that pants can be pulled on over western boots
Hipsters/Hip-huggers : Low-slung pants of any style starting below the normal waistline, usually with belt resting on hip bones.
Capri : Tight-fitting three-quarter-length pants, with short slit on outside of leg.
Overalls : Pants with a bib top and suspender straps over the shoulders that cross in back.
Cargo : Any pants with cargo pockets
Carpenter : Front/back pockets + loops and pockets for tools
Bellows : Outside pocket made with center box or inverted pleat that expands when pocket is used
Cargo : Large patch pocket used on shorts and pants. Curved top of pocket extends to waist and forms a loop through which belt is pulled.
Welt : An inset pocket with the lower lip finished by an upstanding welt.
Kangaroo : Extra-large pocket placed on center front of garment