1. © Lonely Planet
13
Contents
On the Road 4
West Coast Beaches 121
Labuan 123
Tanjung Lesung 123
Indonesia Highlights 6
Gunung Krakatau 123
Natural Indonesia 125
Destination Indonesia 18
Ujung Kulon National Park 133
Bogor 134
Getting Started 20
Around Bogor 139
Sukabumi & Selabintana 139
Itineraries 25
Pelabuhan Ratu
Puncak Pass Area
139
141
History 32
Bandung
North of Bandung
143
150
South of Bandung 152
The Culture 53
Bandung to Pangandaran 153
Pangandaran 155
Environment 73
Around Pangandaran
Cirebon
160
162
Food & Drink 79
Around Cirebon
CENTRAL JAVA
165
165
Cilacap 167
Java 88
Purwokerto 167
History 89
Wonosobo 167
Culture 92
Dieng Plateau 169
Getting There & Away 94
Borobudur 171
Getting Around 95
Yogyakarta 176
JAKARTA 96
Around Yogyakarta 191
History 96
Prambanan 194
Orientation 99
Solo (Surakarta) 198
Information 100
Around Solo 204
Dangers & Annoyances 101
North Coast 207
Sights 101
Pekalongan 207
Activities 106
Semarang 209
Jakarta for Children 107
Ambarawa 213
Tours 107
Bandungan 214
Festivals & Events 107
Gedung Songo Temples 214
Sleeping 107
Demak 214
Eating 110
Kudus 215
Drinking 112
Around Kudus 217
Entertainment 113
Jepara 217
Shopping 114
Around Jepara 218
Getting There & Away 115
Karimunjawa 218
Getting Around 117
EAST JAVA 220
Around Jakarta 118
Surabaya 220
WEST JAVA 119
Trowulan 228
Jakarta to Merak 119
Pulau Madura 229
Merak 121
Malang 233

2. 14 CONTENTS
Around Malang 238 Activities 312 Around Negara 346
Blitar 242 Courses 313 Gilimanuk 346
Panataran 243 Tours 313 Taman Nasional
Gunung Kelud 244 Festivals & Events 314 Bali Barat 347
Pacitan 244 Sleeping 314 Labuhan Lalang 348
Around Pacitan 244 Eating 318 CENTRAL MOUNTAINS 348
Probolinggo 244 Drinking 320 Gunung Batur 348
Gunung Bromo & Entertainment 320 Danau Bratan 352
Bromo-Tengger-Semeru Shopping 320 Gunung Batukau Area 355
National Park 245
Getting There & Away 321 NORTH BALI 356
Bondowoso 249
Getting Around 321 Yeh Sanih 356
Ijen Plateau 250
AROUND UBUD 322 Singaraja 357
Jember 252
Bedulu 322 Around Singaraja 358
Watu Ulo & Papuma 252
Pejeng 323 Lovina 359
Kalibaru 252 West of Lovina 363
Meru Betiri National Park 253 Tampaksiring 323
North of Ubud 324 Pemuteran 363
Alas Purwo National Park 254
South of Ubud 324
Banyuwangi
Baluran National Park
255
256 EAST BALI 325 Sumatra 365
Coast Road to Kusamba 325 NORTH SUMATRA 370
Bali 258 Gianyar
Bangli
325
326
Medan
Bukit Lawang
371
378
History 259
Semarapura (Klungkung) 327 Parapat 387
Culture 261
Around Semarapura 328 Danau Toba 388
Getting There & Away 266
Sidemen Road 328 Sibolga 394
Getting Around 267
Pura Besakih 329 PULAU NIAS 395
SOUTH BALI 269
Rendang to Amlapura Gunung Sitoli 397
Kuta & Legian 269 Road 329 Teluk Dalam 398
Seminyak 279 Gunung Agung 330 Pantai Sorake &
North of Seminyak 284 Kusamba to Padangbai 331 Teluk Lagundri 398
Sanur 285 Padangbai 331 Traditional Villages 400
Benoa Harbour 289 Padangbai to Candidasa 334 ACEH 401
Bukit Peninsula 289 Tenganan 334 Banda Aceh 404
DENPASAR 295 Candidasa 335 Pulau Weh 409
Orientation 296 Candidasa to Amlapura 336 Aceh’s West Coast 412
Information 296 Amlapura 337 Pulau Banyak 414
Sights 296 Tirta Gangga 338 Gayo Highlands 415
Festivals & Events 296 Amed & the Far East Coast 339 Gunung Leuser
Sleeping 297 Kubu Region 341 National Park 417
Eating 297 Tulamben 341 WEST SUMATRA 419
Shopping 297 Tulamben to Yeh Sanih 342 Padang 420
Getting There & Away 297 WEST BALI 342 Around Padang 425
Getting Around 300 Tanah Lot 342 Mentawai Islands 425
NUSA LEMBONGAN & Pura Taman Ayun 343 Bukittinggi 431
ISLANDS 300 Around Bukittinggi 435
Marga 343
Nusa Lembongan 301 Danau Maninjau 437
Tabanan 343
Nusa Ceningan 304 Kerinci Valley 440
South of Tabanan 343
Nusa Penida 304 North of Tabanan 344 BENGKULU 444
UBUD 306 Balian Beach & Bengkulu 444
Orientation 306 Lalang-Linggah 344 Northern Bengkulu 447
Information 306 Jembrana Coast 345 Pulau Enggano 447
Sights 307 Negara 346 RIAU 448

3. CONTENTS 15
Pekanbaru 448 Around Bima 527 WEST KALIMANTAN 595
Around Pekanbaru 451 Sape 527 Pontianak 595
Dumai 451 KOMODO & RINCA Sungai Kapuas 602
Riau Islands 451 ISLANDS 528 Singkawang 606
Pulau Batam 451 Komodo 529 Around Singkawang 607
Pulau Bintan 455 Rinca 532 Ketapang 608
Other Riau Islands 459 FLORES 532 Gunung Palung
Labuanbajo 534 National Park 610
JAMBI 460
Jambi 460 Ruteng 538 CENTRAL KALIMANTAN 611
Muara Jambi 462 Around Ruteng 540 Pangkalan Bun 611
Bajawa 541 Sungai Lamandau &
SOUTH SUMATRA 463 Sungai Balantikan 613
Palembang 463 Around Bajawa 543
Kumai 614
Danau Ranau 467 Boawae 544
Tanjung Puting
Krui 467 Riung 545 National Park 614
Pasemah Highlands 467 Ende 545 Palangka Raya 618
Pulau Bangka 468 Kelimutu 548 Sebangau National Park 621
Moni 549 Sungai Kahayan 621
LAMPUNG 469
Around Moni 551 Muara Teweh 623
Bandarlampung 470
Maumere 552 SOUTH KALIMANTAN 623
Way Kambas National Park 472
Around Maumere 554 Banjarmasin 623
Kalianda 473
Larantuka 556 Around Banjarmasin 629
Gunung Krakatau 474
Around Larantuka 557 Marabahan &
Bakauheni 474
SOLOR & ALOR Margasari 629
Bukit Barisan Selatan ARCHIPELAGOS 557
National Park 474 Kandangan 629
Adonara 558 Negara 630
Nusa Tenggara 475 Lembata
Alor
558
561
Upau
Loksado
630
630
History 476 WEST TIMOR 564 Around Loksado 631
Wildlife 476 Kupang 567 South Coast 632
Climate 476 Around Kupang 570 EAST KALIMANTAN 632
Getting There & Soe 571
Around 477 Balikpapan 632
Around Soe 572 Around Balikpapan 636
LOMBOK 478
Kefamenanu 573 Samarinda 637
Mataram 483
Around Kefamenanu 574 Kutai National Park 641
Around Mataram 486
Atambua & Tenggarong 641
Lembar & the Around 574
Southwestern Peninsula 487 Sungai Mahakam 642
Senggigi 488 ROTE 575
Upper Mahakam 644
Gili Islands 492 SUMBA 577
Sungai Kedang Kepala 646
North & Central Lombok 504 Waingapu 581
Around Waingapu 583 Sungai Belayan 647
Sapit 506 Berau 647
Gunung Rinjani 506 East Sumba 583
South-Central Sumba 584 Pulau Derawan &
Tetebatu 510 Sangalaki Archipelago 648
South of Tetebatu 511 Waikabubak 584 Sungai Kayan &
South Lombok 511 West Sumba 586 Apokayan Highlands 650
East Lombok 515 Krayan Hulu 650
SUMBAWA 516 Kalimantan 590 Sebuku Sembakung
Tarakan
651
651
West Sumbawa 517 History 591
Sumbawa Besar 519 Culture 592
Around Sumbawa Besar 521 Wildlife 593 Sulawesi 654
East Sumbawa 523 Getting There & Away 593 History 656
Bima & Raba 525 Getting Around 593 Climate 656

4. 16 CONTENTS
Getting There & Away 656 National Park 704 Kei Islands 763
Getting Around 657 Manado 704 Tanimbar Islands 769
SOUTH SULAWESI 657 Pulau Bunaken 710 Southwestern Maluku 771
Makassar 659 Tomohon 714 Aru 771
Around Makassar 666 Around Tomohon 714
Pantai Bira 667 Danau Tondano
Airmadidi
715
715
Papua 772
Pulau Lihukan & History 774
Pulau Betang 670 Bitung 715
Climate 775
Pulau Selayar 670 Pulau Lembeh &
the Lembeh Strait 715 Wildlife 776
Taka Bone Rate 670
Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Culture 777
Watampone 670
Saudara Nature Reserve 716 Getting There & Away 777
Sengkang 671
Sangir-Talaud Islands 717 Getting Around 778
Pare Pare 672
SOUTHEAST SULAWESI 717 WEST PAPUA 780
Palopo 672
Kolaka 718 Sorong 780
TANA TORAJA 672
Kendari 719 Raja Ampat Islands 782
Rantepao 673
Around Kendari 720 Fak-Fak 785
Makale 679
Raha 721 Around Fak-Fak 785
Around Tana Toraja 679
Around Raha 721 Manokwari 786
MAMASA VALLEY 683
Bau Bau 722 Pegunungan Arfak 788
Mamasa 684
Tukangbesi Islands 722 Cenderawasih Bay
Around Mamasa 684 National Park 789
CENTRAL SULAWESI
Pendolo
686
686
Maluku 724 THE NORTH
Jayapura
789
789
Tentena 687 History 725
Sentani 792
Poso 689 Culture 727
Around Jayapura & Sentani 794
Around Poso 690 Getting There &
Away 727 Pulau Biak 796
Lore Lindu National Park 690 Pulau Yapen 800
Getting Around 727
Palu 691 THE BALIEM VALLEY 801
NORTH MALUKU 728
Donggala & Tanjung Wamena 802
Karang 693 Pulau Ternate 729
Pulau Tidore 735 Around Wamena 806
Kolonedale 694
South of Tidore 736 Baliem Valley – South 807
Teluk Tomori 694
Pulau Halmahera 737 Baliem Valley – Northeast 810
Morowali Nature Reserve 694
Pulau Morotai 740 Baliem Valley – Northwest 811
Luwuk 695
SULA & BURU 741 Danau Habbema 811
Banggai Islands 695
Sula Islands 741 Lani Country 811
Tanjung Api National Park 695
Pulau Buru 742 Yali Country & Beyond 812
Ampana 695
PULAU AMBON 742 THE SOUTH 813
TOGEAN ISLANDS 696
Kota Ambon 742 Merauke 813
Pulau Batu Daka 698
Around Pulau Ambon 749 Wasur National Park 814
Pulau Kadidiri 699
LEASE & SERAM 751 The Asmat Region 815
Pulau Una Una 700
Lease Islands 751 Korowai & Kombai Regions 816
Pulau Togean 700
Pulau Seram 754
Pulau Tomken &
Pulau Bolilangga 700 BANDA ISLANDS 756 Directory 817
Pulau Malenge 700 Bandaneira 757 Accommodation 817
Pulau Walea Kodi 700 Pulau Gunung Api 761 Activities 819
NORTH SULAWESI 701 Pulau Banda Besar 761 Business Hours 823
Gorontalo 702 Pulau Hatta 762 Children 823
Around Gorontalo 703 Pulau Ai 762 Climate Charts 826
Kotamobagu 704 Pulau Run (Rhun) 763 Courses 826
Bogani Nani Wartabone SOUTHERN MALUKU 763 Customs Regulations 827

5. © Lonely Planet
C O N T E N T S 17
Dangers & Annoyances 827
Discount Cards 829 Transport 842 Further Reading
IN INDONESIA
858
858
Embassies & Consulates 829 GETTING THERE & AWAY 842 Availability of
Festivals & Events 830 Entering the Country 842 Health Care 858
Food 832 Air 842 Infectious Diseases 858
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 832 Land 844 Traveller’s Diarrhoea 861
Holidays 832 Sea 845 Environmental Hazards 862
Insurance 833 Tours 845 Women’s Health 864
Internet Access 833 GETTING AROUND 847 Traditional Medicine 864
Legal Matters 833 Air 847
Maps 834 Bicycle
Boat
848
848
Language 865
Money 834
Photography & Video
Post
835
835
Bus
Car & Motorcycle
850
851
Glossary 871
Hitching 853
Shopping
Solo Travellers
836
837 Local Transport 853 The Authors 875
Telephone 837 Minibus (Bemo) 854
Time 838 Tours
Train
854
855
Behind the Scenes 878
Toilets 838
Tourist Information
Travellers with Disabilities
839
839 Health 856 Index 888
Visas
Volunteering
839
840
BEFORE YOU GO
Insurance
856
856 GreenDex 907
Women Travellers 841 Vaccinations 856
Work 841 Internet Resources 858 Map Legend 908
Regional Map Contents
PACIFIC
SOUTH OCEAN
CHINA
SEA Brunei
Malaysia
SUMATRA
pp366–7
KALIMANTAN
p591
SULAWESI MALUKU
p655 p725
PAPUA
p773
Jakarta
JAVA pp90–1
NUSA TENGGARA
pp476–7
BALI East
p260 Timor
INDIAN
OCEAN
TIMOR SEA