Flash or Not? Week 5: Light and Exposure/Flash Photography
Review AEB on Flickr
Review Light and Exposure
White Balance Function
Assignment, Flash or not
Digital photography is easy- when you have plenty of light and the conditions are ideal.
The flash is the biggest solution- not only does it interfere with your “moment” socially and artistically, but the flash can flatten out your digital images.
A good way to combat the problem in low light you can try using a higher ISO
Flash: Flat – no contrast – washed out No Flash: Natural warm colors - contrast
Crank ISO as high as it will go
Shoot RAW if possible (if post editing is used)
AV with the lowest f-stop on fastest lens
Noise reduction in post processing to help on the grain/noise
And although a fast lens can be very expensive, there are affordable primes out there, like the Canon f1.8 50mm.
Take advantage of candle light’s available illumination
Have some additional room light, set in AV mode and IS.
Capture these precious moments without a distracting flash.
Watch for blurred imaged caused by slow shutter speed.
Choose AV mode, use IS
Aim for eyelashes
Effects of Flash - Skintone Flash Washed out No Flash Warm skin tones
Flash or Not?
Major events at night and watch the grandstands.
The digital camera decided there was not enough light, so the camera flash fired automatically.
Expected max distance for inbuilt camera flashes-ten feet.
No Flash– Low lighting Decision
No Flash – No window glare
Keeping the Camera Still
Often it is not practical to use tripods in some areas (grandstands-train station).
Balance your body and, if possible, brace yourself against something solid, such as a wall or seat.
Then bring your elbows in firmly against your chest, and using the viewfinder hold your camera firmly against your head. Finally breathe, not too deep, and then hold it while you squeeze the shutter release.
Built in (good for 10 feet away, not good close up)
Higher end cameras
Electronic contact points
TTL metering: the camera measures the light in the scene based on the light coming through the lens. The camera is smart enough to meter the subject, do some quick calculations and then tell each (slave and master)(infrared) flash how bright they should fire.
Direct – can produce a harsh image Shadow behind subject
Wall Bounce – Brings out subject shape
Ceiling bounce -
Off camera shoe cord $70
Wireless transmitter $200
Very simple, very high quality flash
No sideways tilt, so bounce goes horizontally for vertical shots.
Canon 580EXII Speedlite
Top-of-the-line, professional grade external flash
Master/slave remote flash setting
Portraits – add mood, give contrast and provide interest.
Can be used to dramatically alter the mood of the model
Angled light: Dynamic variation between highlights and shadows to give a dimension and depth
Avoid straight on flash which washes out the subject
Strobes, speedlights, or LEDs: The main light should be strongest, and the second light should simply provide a nice fill
Most dynamic photographs are the ones in which the audience can walk into the scene – lighting and shape most emphasized by side light.
Flash Angles http://www.flickr.com/photos/seanmcfoto/577531995/ From Sean McCormack (Flickr) :
Light bouncing off the blood vessels in the back of the eye
Lens axis flash causes this
Red Eye Red Eye Deleted in Photoshop Elements
Christmas Tree in the Background
For indoor light displays or shots of the tree, slow down the shutter speed to allow ambient light to come into the camera.
Always use a tripod.
The flash usage depends on the situation; don't use a flash if you are just shooting the tree or the lights, but use the flash if people are in front of the tree.
Flash Indoors With camera flash: External flash bounced off the ceiling would produce a more evenly contrasted image
Light up close subjects
Softens hard shadows
Eye sockets at noon hours
No flash - silhouette Fill flash – Subjected highlighted
Shooting into Direct Sunlight
Move into the shade
Use fill in flash
Change your perspective
Spot metering/Exp compensation
silhouette Use light to direct the viewers eye
Every time you point your camera at a scene it needs to take a guess at what is important to you in the picture and which part you want to be exposed optimally
Overall Metering (Multi Segment/Zone Metering) camera attempts to take into consideration everything in your frame
Spot Metering camera to do it’s metering from a very small ’spot’ in the scene
Center Weighted Metering takes a little from both ends of the spectrum and tells the camera to focus it’s metering decisions upon the center of your image1