Stratus

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    Stratus - Presentation Transcript

    1. Chrysler Cirrus Dodge Stratus Plymouth Breeze Automotive Repair Manual by Marc M Scribner and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers Models covered: Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze 1995 through 2000 (10C 1 - 25015) ABODE FGHIJ KLMN Haynes' IMTS H Accm ASSOCIATION MEMBER Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA
    2. About this manual Its purpose must pass on to you to cover its labor and that Section. overhead costs. An added benefit is the Procedures, once described in the text, The purpose of this manual is to help sense of satisfaction and accomplishment are not normally repeated. When it's neces- you get the best value from your vehicle. It that you feel after doing the job yourself. sary to refer to another Chapter, the refer- can do so in several ways. It can help you ence will be given as Chapter and Section decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service Using the manual number. Cross references given without use The manual is divided into Chapters. of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections department or a repair shop; it provides infor- Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sec- and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For mation and procedures for routine mainte- tions, which are headed in bold type between example, "see Section 8" means in the same nance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble horizontal lines. Each Section consists of Chapter. consecutively numbered paragraphs. References to the left or right side of the occurs. At the beginning of each numbered Sec- vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver's We hope you use the manual to tackle tion you will be referred to any illustrations seat, facing forward. the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, which apply to the procedures in that Sec- Even though we have prepared this doing it yourself may be quicker than arrang- tion. The reference numbers used in illustra- manual with extreme care, neither the pub- ing an appointment to get the vehicle into a tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Section li sher nor the author can accept responsibility shop and making the trips to leave it and pick and the Step within that Section. That is, for any errors in, or omissions from, the infor- it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to mation given. saved by avoiding the expense the shop Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand. CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on. WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury. Introduction to the Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze The Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and injection system. lateral links. Plymouth Breeze models are four-door sedan The engine transmits power to the front The standard power rack and pinion type body styles. They feature transversely wheels through either a five-speed manual steering unit is mounted behind the engine mounted engines which were offered in three transaxle or a four-speed automatic transaxle on the front suspension crossmember. An displacements; a 2.0 liter in-line four-cylinder via independent driveaxles. electronically controlled variable-assist engine with a Single Overhead-Camshaft All models feature an all steel unibody speed-proportional power steering was avail- (SOHC), a 2.4 liter in-line four-cylinder engine design and independent front and rear sus- able as an option, which provided maximum with a Dual Overhead-Camshaft (DOHC) and pension. The front suspension incorporates a power steering at low vehicle speeds. the 60-degree V6 six-cylinder engine with shock absorber/coil spring assembly with All models are equipped with power Single Overhead-Camshafts (SONG) (one upper and lower control arms, while the rear assisted front disc and rear drum brakes with over each cylinder head). suspension utilizes a shock absorber/coil an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) available as All models are equipped with an elec- spring assembly and upper control arm an option. tronically controlled multi-port electronic fuel in combination with a trailing arm and
    3. 0-6 Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and cate of Title and Registration. It contains On the models covered by this manual the unpublicized process in vehicle manufactur- information such as where and when the engine codes are: ing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are vehicle was manufactured, the model year C............................2.0L 4-cyl SOHC compiled on a numerical basis, the individual and the body style. H ............................ 2.5L V6 SOHC vehicle numbers are essential to correctly X............................ 2.4L 4-cyl DOHC identify the component required. VIN engine and model year codes On the models covered by this manual the Vehicle Identification Number model year codes are: (VIN) Two particularly important pieces of S........................... 1995 information found in the VIN are the engine T........................... 1996 This very important identification num- is code and the model year code. Counting V........................... 1997 ber located on a plate attached to the from the left, the engine code letter designa- W.......................... 1998 dashboard insi d e the windshield on the tion is the 8th digit and the model year code driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration). X........................... 1999 designation is the 10th digit. Y...........................2000 The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certifi - The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is stamped into a metal The Body Code Plate is mounted to the right hand shock tower in plate fastened to the dashboard on the driver's side - it's visible the engine compartment through the windshield
    4. Vehicle identification numbers 0-7 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, the engine identification number is stamped on the left rear of the engine block (behind the starter motor) The Vehicle Safety Certification label is affixed to the rear edge of the driver's door ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER • OIL AND VIN NUMBER FILTER On V6 engines, the engine identification number is located on the 2.4L four-cylinder engine identification number locations rear of the engine block just below the cylinder head Body Code Plate identification numbers can be found stamped on a machined pad on the left rear of the The Body Code Plate is a stamped metal engine block. 2.5L V6 engine identification is plate attached to the driver's side shock located on the rear of the engine block just tower in the engine compartment (see illus- below the cylinder head (see illustrations). tration). It contains more specific information about the manufacturing of the vehicle such Transaxle identification as the paint code, trim code and vehicle order number, as well as the VIN. numbers The transaxle identification information Vehicle Safety Certification can be found on a bar code label located on label the front of the transaxle (see illustration). The Vehicle Safety Certification label is Vehicle Emissions Control attached to the driver's side door end (see illustration). The label contains the name of Information (VECI) label the manufacturer, the month and year of pro- The emissions control information label duction, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is found under the hood, normally on the (GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating radiator support or the bottom side of the (GAWR) and the certification statement. hood. This label contains information on the emissions control equipment installed on the Engine identification numbers vehicle, as well as tune-up specifications (see The 2.0L and 2.4L four-cylinder engine Chapter 6 for more information).
    5. 0-8 Buying parts Replacement parts are available from parts on an exchange basis, which can save unique to the vehicle and not generally avail- many sources, which generally fall into one of a considerable amount of money. Discount able elsewhere (such as major engine parts, two categories - authorized dealer parts auto parts stores are often very good places transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). departments and independent retail auto to buy materials and parts needed for general Warranty information: If the vehicle is parts stores. Our advice concerning these vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, fil- still covered under warranty, be sure that any parts is as follows: ters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, replacement parts purchased - regardless of Retail auto parts stores: Good auto bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and the source - do not invalidate the warranty! parts stores will stock frequently needed general accessories, have convenient hours, To be sure of obtaining the correct components which wear out relatively fast, charge lower prices and can often be found parts, have engine and chassis numbers such as clutch components, exhaust sys- not far from home. available and, if possible, take the old parts tems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These Authorized dealer parts department: along for positive identification. stores often supply new or reconditioned This is the best source for parts which are Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Most automotive machine shops can perform removed from an assembly, should always Maintenance techniques be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any this task, as well as other repair procedures, There are a number of techniques such as the repair of threaded holes that damaged washers with new ones. Never use involved in maintenance and repair that will have been stripped out. a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such be referred to throughout this manual. Appli- Flat washers and lockwashers, when as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic. cation of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the var- ious tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete. Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts Grade 1 or 2 Grade 5 Grade 8 together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undam- aged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric) fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Grade Identification Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and Hex Nut prevent breakage. Some mechanics use tur- Grade 5 pentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, 3 Dots let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or Hex Nut removed with a special nut breaker, available Grade 8 Class Class Class 10.9 9.8 8.8 at tool stores. 6 Dots If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assem- bly, it can be drilled and removed with a spe- Standard hex nut Metric hex nut Metric stud strength markings cial tool commonly available for this purpose. strength markings strength markings
    6. Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-9 Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile Metric thread sizes Ft-lbs Nm manufacturers are making wider and wider M-6 ............................................................... 6to9 9to12 use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is impor- M-8 ............................................................... 14to21 19to28 tant to be able to tell the difference between M-10............................................................. 28to40 38to54 standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and M-12............................................................. 50 to 71 68 to 96 metric hardware, since they cannot be inter- M-14 ............................................................. 80 to 140 109 to 154 changed. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are Pipe thread sizes sized according to diameter, thread pitch and 1 /8 ................................................................ 5to8 7to10 length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 1 /4................................................................ 12 to 18 17 to 24 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per 3/8................................................................ 22 to 33 30 to 44 inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 25 to 35 34 to 47 1 /2 ................................................................ metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between U.S. thread sizes threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are 1/4-20......................................................... 6to9 9to12 nearly identical, and easily confused, but they 5/16 - 18 ....................................................... 12to18 17to24 are not interchangeable. 5/16 - 24 ....................................................... 14 to 20 19 to 27 In addition to the differences in diame- 3/8 - 16 ......................................................... 22 to 32 30 to 43 ter, thread pitch and length, metric and stan- 3/8 - 24 ......................................................... 27 to 38 37 to 51 dard bolts can also be distinguished by 7/16 - 14 ....................................................... 40 to 55 55 to 74 examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the 7/16-20 ....................................................... 40 to 60 55 to 81 distance across the flats on a standard bolt 1 /2 - 13 ......................................................... 55 to 80 75 to 108 head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millime- ters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most stan- T -I J * i, !`S'o,'v, f r p . Cfiffko dard bolts have slashes radiating out from D the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automo- biles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. I W-2 HAYNES I Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric Standard (SAE and USS) bolt Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots dimensions/grade marks P Property class (bolt strength) stamped into one side, while metric nuts are L G Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) marked with a number. The greater the num- T Thread pitch (distance between L Length (in inches) ber of dots, or the higher the number, the threads in millimeters) T Thread pitch (number of threads per greater the strength of the nut. D Diameter inch) Metric studs are also marked on their D Nominal diameter (in inches) ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, made of and their thread diameters, have metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geo- studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in specific torque values, many of which are metric code to denote grade. their original locations. Also, when replacing noted in the Specifications at the beginning It should be noted that many fasteners, a fastener with a new one, make sure that the of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque especially Grades 0 through 2, have no dis- new one has a strength rating equal to or recommendations closely. For fasteners not tinguishing marks on them. When such is the greater than the original. assigned a specific torque, a general torque case, the only way to determine whether it is value chart is presented here as a guide. standard or metric is to measure the thread Tightening sequences and These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the procedures fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not same size. Most threaded fasteners should be aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the Standard fasteners are often referred to size and grade of a fastener determine the as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded com- amount of torque that can safely be applied should be noted that SAE technically refers to ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening to it. The figures listed here are approximate a non-metric fine thread fastener only. the fastener can weaken it and cause it to for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are break, while undertightening can cause it to grades can tolerate higher torque values. referred to as USS sizes. eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as Since fasteners of the same size (both studs, depending on the material they are cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential standard and metric) may have different cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-
    7. 0-10 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Micrometer set Dial indicator set ened in sequence to avoid warping the com- identify the two halves with numbered pieces Hose removal tips ponent. This sequence will normally be of masking tape so they can be easily recon- Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a spe- nected. conditioning, do not disconnect any of the cific pattern is not given, the following proce- A/C hoses without first having the system dures can be used to prevent warping. Gasket sealing surfaces depressurized by a dealer service department Initially, the bolts or nuts should be Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are or a service station. assembled finger-tight only. Next, they used to seal the mating surfaces between Hose removal precautions closely paral- should be tightened one full turn each, in a two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum lel gasket removal precautions. Avoid criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each or pressure contained in an assembly. scratching or gouging the surface that the one has been tightened one full turn, return to Many times these gaskets are coated hose mates against or the connection may the first one and tighten them all one-half with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. turn, following the same pattern. Finally, compound before assembly. Age, heat and Because of various chemical reactions, the tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a pressure can sometimes cause the two parts rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal ti me until each fastener has been tightened to to stick together so tightly that they are very spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a the proper torque. To loosen and remove the difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can hose, first loosen the hose clamps that fasteners, the procedure would be reversed. be loosened by striking it with a soft-face secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular Component disassembly pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate hammer can be used if a block of wood is it around the spigot. Work it back and forth Component disassembly should be placed between the hammer and the part. Do until it is completely free, then pull it off. Sili- done with care and purpose to help ensure not hammer on cast parts or parts that could cone or other lubricants will ease removal if that the parts go back together properly. be easily damaged. With any particularly they can be applied between the hose and Always keep track of the sequence in which stubborn part, always recheck to make sure the outside of the spigot. Apply the same parts are removed. Make note of special that every fastener has been removed. lubricant to the inside of the hose and the characteristics or marks on parts that can be Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry outside of the spigot to simplify installation. installed more than one way, such as a apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the As a last resort (and if the hose is to be grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled clean surface in the order that they were necessary, use an old broom handle, but from the spigot. If this must be done, be removed. It may also be helpful to make keep in mind that extra clean up will be nec- careful that the metal connection is not dam- sketches or take instant photos of compo- essary if the wood splinters. aged. nents before removal. After the parts are separated, the old If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, When removing fasteners from a com- gasket must be carefully scraped off and the do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually ponent, keep track of their locations. Some- gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket weaken with age, so it is a good idea to ti mes threading a bolt back in a part, or material can be soaked with rust penetrant or replace them with screw-type clamps when- putting the washers and nut back on a stud, treated with a special chemical to soften it so ever a hose is removed. can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be cannot be returned to their original locations, fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by Tools they should be kept in a compartmented box flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is A selection of good tools is a basic or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muf- recommended because it is usually softer requirement for anyone who plans to main- fin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each than the surfaces to be scraped, which tain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a par- reduces the chance of gouging the part. owner who has few tools, the initial invest- ticular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover Some gaskets can be removed with a wire ment might seem high, but when compared bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this brush, but regardless of the method used, to the spiraling costs of professional auto type is especially helpful when working on the mating surfaces must be left clean and maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. assemblies with very small parts, such as the smooth. If for some reason the gasket sur- To help the owner decide which tools carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior face is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick are needed to perform the tasks detailed in dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be enough to fill scratches will have to be used this manual, the following tool lists are marked with paint or tape to identify the con- during reassembly of the components. For offered: Maintenance and minor repair, tents. most applications, a non-drying (or semi-dry- Repair/overhaul and Special. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or ing) gasket sealer should be used. The newcomer to practical mechanics connectors are separated, it is a good idea to
    8. Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-11 Dial caliper Hand-operated vacuum pump Timing light Compression gauge with spark plug Damper/steering wheel puller General purpose puller hole adapter Hydraulic lifter removal tool Valve spring compressor Valve spring compressor Ridge reamer Piston ring groove cleaning tool Ring removal/installation tool
    9. 0-12 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Ring compressor Cylinder hone Brake hold-down spring tool Brake cylinder hone Clutch plate alignment tool Tap and die set should start off with the maintenance and Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) it has the capacity of accepting a very wide minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for Combination pliers - 6 inch range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Hacksaw and assortment of blades mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set Then, as confidence and experience grow, Tire pressure gauge and a 1/2-inch drive set. the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, Grease gun Socket set(s) buying additional tools as they are needed. Oil can Reversible ratchet Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into Fine emery cloth Extension - 10 inch the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period Wire brush Universal joint of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will Battery post and cable cleaning tool Torque wrench (same size drive as assemble a tool set complete enough for Oil filter wrench sockets) most repair and overhaul procedures and will Funnel (medium size) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce add tools from the special category when it is Safety goggles Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) felt that the expense is justified by the fre- Jackstands (2) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) quency of use. Drain pan Standard screwdriver (stubby - Note: If basic tune-ups are going to be part of 5/16-inch) Maintenance and minor repair routine maintenance, it will be necessary to Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) tool kit purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) The tools in this list should be consid- light and combination tachometer/dwell Pliers - vise grip ered the minimum required for performance meter. Although they are included in the list Pliers - lineman's of routine maintenance, servicing and minor of special tools, it is mentioned here because Pliers - needle nose repair work. We recommend the purchase of they are absolutely necessary for tuning most Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) combination wrenches (box-end and open- vehicles properly. Cold chisel - 1/2-inch end combined in one wrench). While more Scribe expensive than open end wrenches, they Repair and overhaul tool set Scraper (made from flattened copper offer the advantages of both types of wrench. These tools are essential for anyone tubing) Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to who plans to perform major repairs and are in Centerpunch 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) addition to those in the maintenance and Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch minor repair tool kit. Included is a compre- Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert hensive set of sockets which, though expen- Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or Spark plug gap adjusting tool sive, are invaluable because of their versatil- 4mmto10mm) Feeler gauge set ity, especially when various extensions and A selection of files Brake bleeder wrench drives are available. We recommend the 1/2- Wire brush (large) Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although Jackstands (second set) 6 inch) the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)
    10. Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-13 Note: Another tool which is often useful is an needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a nut. Once the plug is fully seated, electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch larger tool box can be purchased to expand remove the jam nut and bolt. and a set of good quality drill bits. the tool selection. Building a tool set gradu- 3) The third method uses a patented ally allows the cost of the tools to be spread thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. Special tools over a longer period of time and gives the These easy-to-use kits are designed to The tools in this list include those which mechanic the freedom to choose only those repair damaged threads in straight- are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, tools that will actually be used. through holes and blind holes. Both are or which need to be used in accordance with Tool stores will often be the only source available as kits which can handle a vari- their manufacturer's instructions. Unless of some of the special tools that are needed, ety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the these tools will be used frequently, it is not but regardless of where tools are bought, try hole, then tap it with the special very economical to purchase many of them. to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the A consideration would be to split the cost screwdrivers and sockets, because they hole is back to its original diameter and and use between yourself and a friend or won't last very long. The expense involved in thread pitch. friends. In addition, most of these tools can replacing cheap tools will eventually be Regardless of which method you use, be obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem- greater than the initial cost of quality tools. be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A lit- porary basis. tle impatience or carelessness during one of Care and maintenance of tools This list primarily contains only those these relatively simple procedures can ruin tools and instruments widely available to the Good tools are expensive, so it makes your whole day's work and cost you a bundle sense to treat them with respect. Keep them public, and not those special tools produced if you wreck an expensive part. by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dealer service departments. Occasionally, dirt, grease or metal chips before putting Working facilities references to the manufacturer's special Not to be overlooked when discussing tools are included in the text of this manual. them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, tools is the workshop. If anything more than Generally, an alternative method of doing the always check closely under the hood for tools routine maintenance is to be carried out, job without the special tool is offered. How- some sort of suitable work area is essential. ever, sometimes there is no alternative to that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. It is understood, and appreciated, that their use. Where this is the case, and the tool Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pli- many home mechanics do not have a good cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work ers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a workshop or garage available, and end up should be turned over to the dealer service panel mounted on the garage or workshop removing an engine or doing major repairs department or an automotive repair shop. wall, while others should be kept in a tool box outside. It is recommended, however, that Valve spring compressor or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, the overhaul or repair be completed under Piston ring groove cleaning tool meters, etc. must be carefully stored where the cover of a roof. Piston ring compressor they cannot be damaged by weather or A clean, flat workbench or table of com- Piston ring installation tool fortable working height is an absolute neces- Cylinder compression gauge impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and sity. The workbench should be equipped with Cylinder ridge reamer stored properly, they will last a very long a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four Cylinder surfacing hone ti me. Even with the best of care, though, inches. Cylinder bore gauge tools will wear out if used frequently. When a As mentioned previously, some clean, Micrometers and/or dial calipers tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Sub- dry storage space is also required for tools, Hydraulic lifter removal tool as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning sol- Balljoint separator sequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do. vents, etc. which soon become necessary. Universal-type puller Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained I mpact screwdriver Dial indicator set How to repair damaged from the engine or cooling system during nor - mal maintenance or repairs, present a dis- Stroboscopic timing light (inductive threads posal problem. To avoid pouring them on the pick-up) Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut ground or into a sewage system, pour the Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump or bolt hole can become stripped, usually used fluids into large containers, seal them Tachometer/dwell meter from overtightening. Stripping threads is an with caps and take them to an authorized Universal electrical multimeter all-too-common occurrence, especially when disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, Cable hoist working with aluminum parts, because alu- such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal Brake spring removal and installation minum is so soft that it easily strips out. for this purpose. tools Usually, external or internal threads are Always keep a supply of old newspa- Floor jack only partially stripped. After they've been pers and clean rags available. Old towels are cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Buying tools excellent for mopping up spills. Many Sometimes, however, threads are badly dam- mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most For the do-it-yourselfer who is just start- aged. When this happens, you've got three work because they are readily available and ing to get involved in vehicle maintenance choices: and repair, there are a number of options disposable. To help keep the area under the 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be available when purchasing tools. If mainte- oversize and install a larger diameter cut open and flattened to protect the garage nance and minor repair is the extent of the bolt, screw or stud. or shop floor. work to be done, the purchase of individual 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a Whenever working over a painted sur- tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug extensive work is planned, it would be a good face, such as when leaning over a fender to to the original screw size. You can also service something under the hood, always idea to purchase a modest tool set from one buy a plug already threaded to the origi- cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to of the large retail chain stores. A set can usu- nal size. Then you simply drill a hole to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made ally be bought at a substantial savings over the specified size, then run the threaded especially for this purpose, are available at the individual tool prices, and they often plug into the hole with a bolt and jam come with a tool box. As additional tools are auto parts stores.
    11. 0-14 Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. The battery on these vehicles is located inside the wheel well of the left front fender. Due to the lack of accessibility, remote battery connections are provided inside the engine compartment for jump- starting and easy battery disconnection (see illustration). Connect the red colored jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of booster battery and the other end to the positive (+) remote terminal inside the engine compartment. Then connect one end of the black colored jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery The remote battery terminals (arrows) are located in the engine and other end of the cable to the negative (-) remote terminal. compartment and well marked - when connecting jumper cables Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine connect the cable to the positive terminal first, running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse then the negative terminal order of connection.
    12. 0-15 Jacking and towing Jacking attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to should only be used for changing a tire or lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and placing jackstands under the frame. Never tighten the lug nuts in a diagonal pattern. work under the vehicle or start the engine Install the cover (and trim ring, if used) while this jack is being used as the only and be sure it's snapped into place all the means of support. way around. The vehicle should be on level ground. Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an the wheels. automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally oppo- site the wheel being changed. Set the parking Towing brake. As a general rule, the vehicle should be Remove the spare tire and jack from towed with the front (drive) wheels off the stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ground. If they can't be raised, place them on ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of a dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACC the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting position, since the steering lock mechanism the handle and then prying against the back isn't strong enough to hold the front wheels The jack fits over the rocker panel flange of the wheel cover. Loosen the wheel lug nuts straight while towing. (there are two jacking points on each side about 1/4-to-1/2 turn each. Vehicles equipped with an automatic of the vehicle, indicated by a notch in the Place the scissors-type jack under the transaxle can be towed from the front only rocker panel flange) side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height with all four wheels on the ground, provided until it fits in the notch in the vertical rocker that speeds don't exceed 25 mph and the panel flange nearest the wheel to be distance is not over 15 miles. Before towing, Neutral and release the parking brake. changed. There is a front and rear jacking check the transmission fluid level (see Chap- Equipment specifically designed for point on each side of the vehicle (see illus- ter 1). If the level is below the HOT line on the towing should be used. It should be attached tration). dipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly. to the main structural members of the vehi- Turn the jack handle clockwise until the Caution: Never tow a vehicle with an auto- cle, not the bumpers, brackets or suspen- tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts matic transaxle from the rear with the front sion. and pull the wheel off. Replace it with the wheels on the ground. Safety is a major consideration when spare. When towing a vehicle equipped with a towing and all applicable state and local laws Install the lug nuts with the beveled manual transaxle with all four wheels on the must be obeyed. A safety chain system must edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don't ground, be sure to place the shift lever in be used at all times.
    13. 0-16 Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu- lubricants are available for use during vehicle contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which ally made with copper and graphite lubri- maintenance and repair. They include a wide is a dry-type lubricant. cants, is used for exhaust system and variety of products ranging from cleaning sol- White grease is a heavy grease for exhaust manifold bolts. vents and degreasers to lubricants and pro- metal-to-metal applications where water is a Anaerobic locking compounds are tective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. problem. White grease stays soft under both used to keep fasteners from vibrating or low and high temperatures (usually from -100 working loose and cure only after installation, Cleaners to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or in the absence of air. Medium strength lock- Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner dilute in the presence of water. ing compound is used for small nuts, bolts is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and car- Assembly lube is a special extreme and screws that may be removed later. High- bon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry- pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, strength locking compound is for large nuts, type lubricant film which will not harden or used to lubricate high-load parts (such as bolts and studs which aren't removed on a gum up. Because of this film it is not recom- main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for ini- regular basis. mended for use on electrical components. tial start-up of a new engine. The assembly Oil additives range from viscosity index Brake system cleaner is used to tube lubricates the parts without being improvers to chemical treatments that claim remove grease and brake fluid from the brake squeezed out or washed away until the to reduce internal engine friction. It should be system, where clean surfaces are absolutely engine oiling system begins to function. noted that most oil manufacturers caution necessary. It leaves no residue and often Silicone lubricants are used to protect against using additives with their oils. eliminates brake squeal caused by contami- rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Gas additives perform several func- nants. Graphite lubricants are used where oils tions, depending on their chemical makeup. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, cannot be used due to contamination prob- They usually contain solvents that help dis- corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical lems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will solve gum and varnish that build up on car- contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also lubricate metal parts while remaining uncon- buretor, fuel injection and intake parts. They be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, taminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is also serve to break down carbon deposits voltage regulators and other parts where an electrically conductive and will not foul elec- that form on the inside surfaces of the com- oil-free surface is desired. trical contacts in locks such as the ignition bustion chambers. Some additives contain Demoisturants remove water and mois- switch. upper cylinder lubricants for valves and pis- ture from electrical components such as alter- Maly penetrants loosen and lubricate ton rings, and others contain chemicals to nators, voltage regulators, electrical connec- frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and remove condensation from the gas tank. tors and fuse blocks. They are non-conduc- prevent future rusting or freezing. tive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Heat-sink grease is a special electri- Miscellaneous Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents cally non-conductive grease that is used for Brake fluid is specially formulated used to remove grease from the outside of the mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat engine and from chassis components. They and pressure encountered in brake systems. can be sprayed or brushed on and, depend- the module. Care must be taken so this fluid does not ing on the type, are rinsed off either with water Sealants come in contact with painted surfaces or or solvent. plastics. An opened container should always RTV sealant is one of the most widely be resealed to prevent contamination by Lubricants used gasket compounds. Made from sili- water or dirt. Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for cone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond use in engines. It normally contains a wide waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, weatherstripping around doors, windows and variety of additives to prevent corrosion and remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in easy to remove, and is used as a supplemen- pieces. various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to tary sealer with almost all low and medium Undercoating is a petroleum-based, 50. The recommended weight of the oil temperature gaskets. tar-like substance that is designed to protect depends on the season, temperature and the Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in metal surfaces on the underside of the vehi- demands on the engine. Light oil is used in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to cle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound- cold climates and under light load conditions. form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is deadening agent by insulating the bottom of Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where solvent resistant and fills surface imperfec- the vehicle. high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity tions. The difference between an anaerobic Waxes and polishes are used to help oils are designed to have characteristics of sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the cur- protect painted and plated surfaces from the both light and heavy oils and are available in ing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an weather. Different types of paint may require a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence the use of different types of wax and polish. Gear oil is designed to be used in differ- of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive entials, manual transmissions and other cures only after the assembly of parts, seal- cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxi- areas where high-temperature lubrication is ing them together. dized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent required. Thread and pipe sealant is used for years many non-wax polishes that contain a Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and wide variety of chemicals such as polymers heavy grease used where increased loads vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon and silicones have been introduced. These and friction are encountered, such as for compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and li quid and as a wrap-around tape. and last longer than conventional waxes and universal joints. polishes. High-temperature wheel bearing Chemicals grease is designed to withstand the extreme Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, temperatures encountered by wheel bearings galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in
    14. Conversion factors Length (distance) Inches (in) X 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) X 0.0394 = Inches (in) Feet (ft) X 0.305 = Metres (m) X 3.281 = Feet (ft) Miles X 1.609 = Kilometres (km) X 0.621 = Miles Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 ) X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm 3 ) X 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in 3) I mperial pints (Imp pt) X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) I mperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.137 = Litres (I) X 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) I mperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) X 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 1.057 = US quarts (US qt) I mperial gallons (Imp gal) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) I mperial gallons (Imp gal) X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) X 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 = Litres (I) X 0.264 = US gallons (US gal) Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.035 = Ounces (oz) Pounds (lb) X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) X 2.205 = Pounds (lb) Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) X 0.225 = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N) X 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) X 9.81 = Newtons (N) Pressure Pounds-force per square inch X 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square X 1 4.223 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) centimetre (kgf/cm 2 ; kg/cm 2 ) (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) Pounds-force per square inch X 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) X 1 4.696 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) Pounds-force per square inch. X 0.069 = Bars X 1 4.5 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) Pounds-force per square inch X 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in2 ) Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square X 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa) centimetre (kgf/cm 2 ; kg/cm 2 ) Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches X 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre X 0.868 = Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches X 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) X 8.85 = Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 12 = Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres X 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) (kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) X 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm) X 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres X 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm) (kgf m; kg m) Vacuum Inches mercury (in. Hg) X 3.377 = Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.2961 = Inches mercury Inches mercury (in. Hg) X 25.4 = Millimeters mercury (mm Hg) X 0.0394 = Inches mercury Power Horsepower (hp) X 745.7 = Watts (W) X 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp) Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) X 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/I) X 2.825 = Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg) X 0.425 = Kilometres per litre (km/I) X 2.352 = Miles per gallon, US (mpg) Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56 It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (Mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg (Imperial) x l/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x l/100 km = 235
    15. 0-18 Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you etc. and when working under a vehicle. carefully. Never use materials from unmarked may be about getting on with the job at DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out containers. hand, take the time to ensure that your of the way of moving parts. Never run the engine in an enclosed safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes con- attention can result in an accident, as can working load rating adequate for the job. tain carbon monoxide, which is extremely failure to observe certain simple safety pre- poisonous. If you need to run the engine, DO get someone to check on you periodically cautions. The possibility of an accident will always do so in the open air, or at least have when working alone on a vehicle. always exist, and the following points should the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and not be considered a comprehensive list of all If you are fortunate enough to have the make sure that everything is correctly assem- dangers. Rather, they are intended to make use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour bled and tightened. you aware of the risks and to encourage a gasoline and never run the engine while the DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being safety conscious approach to all work you and out of the reach of children and pets. heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit carry out on your vehicle. DO remember that your vehicle's safety with possibly lethal results. affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt Essential DOs and DON'Ts on any point, get professional advice. The battery DON'T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to Never create a spark or allow a bare Asbestos light bulb near a battery. They normally give support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which points. other products - such as brake linings, brake is highly explosive. bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gas- Always disconnect the battery ground (-) DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fas- kets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme cable at the battery before working on the teners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust fuel or electrical systems. on a jack - it may fall. from such products, since it is hazardous to If possible, loosen the filler caps or DON'T start the engine without first making health. If in doubt, assume that they do con- cover when charging the battery from an sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or tain asbestos. external source (this does not apply to sealed Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. or maintenance-free batteries). Do not Fire charge at an excessive rate or the battery DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot Remember at all times that gasoline is may burst. cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a highly flammable. Never smoke or have any Take care when adding water to a non cloth and release the pressure gradually. kind of open flame around when working on a maintenance-free battery and when carrying DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A you are sure it has cooled to the point that it spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by is very corrosive and should not be allowed will not burn you. two metal surfaces contacting each other, or to contact clothing or skin. DON'T touch any part of the engine or ex- even by static electricity built up in your body Always wear eye protection when clean- haust system until it has cooled sufficiently to ing the battery to prevent the caustic under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline avoid burns. vapors, which in a confined space are highly deposits from entering your eyes. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an Household current them to remain on your skin. approved safety solvent. When using an electric power tool, DON'T inhale brake lining dust - it is poten- Always disconnect the battery ground (-) inspection light, etc., which operates on tially hazardous (see Asbestos below). cable at the battery before working on any household current, always make sure that the DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain part of the fuel system or electrical system. tool is correctly connected to its plug and on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or that, where necessary, it is properly on it. exhaust component. It is strongly recom- grounded. Do not use such items in damp DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other mended that a fire extinguisher suitable for conditions and, again, do not create a spark tools which may slip and cause injury. use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or in the garage or workshop at all times. Never or fuel vapor. tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with wrench toward you. If the situation calls for water. Secondary ignition system pushing the wrench away, push with an open Fumes voltage hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench A severe electric shock can result from should slip. Certain fumes are highly toxic and can touching certain parts of the ignition system DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component quickly cause unconsciousness and even (such as the spark plug wires) when the alone - get someone to help you. death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor engine is running or being cranked, particu- DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish falls into this category, as do the vapors from larly if components are damp or the insulation a job. some cleaning solvents. Any draining or is defective. In the case of an electronic igni- DON'T allow children or animals in or around pouring of such volatile fluids should be done tion system, the secondary system voltage is the vehicle while you are working on it. in a well ventilated area. much higher and could prove fatal. DO wear eye protection when using power When using cleaning fluids and sol- vents, read the instructions on the container tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder,
    16. 0-19 Troubleshooting Contents Symptom Section Symptom Section Engine Leaks lubricant .....................................................................................48 Hard to shift......................................................................................... 49 Engine backfires ............................................................................. 19 Noise most pronounced when turning .................................................40 Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off ..................... 18 Noisy in all gears ..................................................................................46 Engine hard to start when cold ...................................................... 3 Noisy in neutral with engine running....................................................44 Engine hard to start when hot........................................................ 4 Noisy in one particular gear ................................................................. 45 Engine lacks power........................................................................ 14 Slips out of gear ..................................................................... :............ 47 Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically .................................. 8 Vibration ...............................................................................................43 Engine misses at idle speed ........................................................... 9 Engine misses throughout driving speed range.............................10 Automatic transaxle Engine rotates but will not start ..................................................... 2 Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral ............................54 Engine runs with oil pressure light on ............................................ 17 Fluid leakage........................................................................................50 Engine stalls................................................................................... 13 General shift mechanism problems..................................................... 52 Engine starts but stops immediately .............................................. 6 Transaxle fluid brown or has burned smell .......................................... 51 Engine stumbles on acceleration ................................................... 11 Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive Engine surges while holding accelerator steady ............................ 12 in forward or reverse gears .............................................................55 Engine will not rotate when attempting to start ............................. 1 Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal Oil puddle under engine ................................................................. 7 pressed to the floor ........................................................................ 53 Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill ................................................................. 16 Driveaxles Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement ............. 5 Clicking noise in turns.......................................................................... 56 Engine electrical system Shudder or vibration during acceleration .............................................57 Vibration at highway speeds ................................................................58 Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on ................. 19 Alternator light fails to go out ......................................................... 20 Brakes Battery will not hold a charge........................................................ 21 Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed ......................................... 66 Fuel and emissions systems Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance ........................... 67 CHECK ENGINE light remains on or is flashing ............................. 22 Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates) ....................................... 61 Excessive fuel consumption ........................................................... 23 Dragging brakes...................................................................................64 Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor ........................................................ 24 Excessive brake pedal travel ............................................................... 63 Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle ...................................62 Cooling system Grabbing or uneven braking action ..................................................... 65 Coolant loss ................................................................................... 29 Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) ...................60 External coolant leakage ................................................................ 27 Parking brake does not hold ................................................................68 Internal coolant leakage ................................................................. 28 Vehicle pulls to one side during braking ..............................................59 Overcooling .................................................................................... 26 Overheating.................................................................................... 25 Suspension and steering systems Poor coolant circulation................................................................. 30 Abnormal or excessive tire wear..........................................................70 Abnormal noise at the front end .......................................................... 75 Clutch Cupped tires ........................................................................................ 80 Clutch pedal stays on floor ............................................................ 37 Erratic steering when braking .............................................................. 77 Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or in vehicle speed ........................................................................ 33 during braking .................................................................................78 Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged ................................... 34 Excessive play or looseness in steering system .................................. 84 High pedal effort ............................................................................ 38 Excessive tire wear on inside edge ......................................................82 Noise in clutch area ....................................................................... 36 Excessive tire wear on outside edge ................................................... 81 Pedal travels to floor - no pressure Hard steering ........................................................................................73 or very little resistance.............................................................. 31 Poor returnability of steering to center................................................ 74 Transaxle rattling (clicking) ............................................................. 35 Rattling or clicking noise in steering gear ............................................85 Unable to select gears ................................................................... 32 Shimmy, shake or vibration ..................................................................72 Suspension bottoms............................................................................79 Manual transaxle Tire tread worn in one place ................................................................ 83 Clicking noise in turns.................................................................... 42 Vehicle pulls to one side ...................................................................... 69 Clunk on acceleration or deceleration ........................................... 41 Wander or poor steering stability ......................................................... 76 Knocking noise at low speeds ....................................................... 39 Wheel makes a thumping noise ........................................................... 71
    17. 0-20 Troubleshooting This section provides an easy reference 5 Broken or stripped timing belt (Chap- 3 Oil filter or adapter block leaking (Chap- guide to the more common problems which ter 2). ter 1). may occur during the operation of your vehi- 6 Ignition components damp or damaged 4 Valve cover(s) leaking (Chapter 2). cle. These problems and their possible (Chapter 5). 5 Engine oil seals leaking (Chapter 2). causes are grouped under headings denoting 7 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark various components or systems, such as plugs (Chapter 1). Engine, Cooling system, etc. They also refer 8 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in 8 Engine lopes while idling or idles you to the chapter and/or section which the starting circuit (Chapter 5). erratically deals with the problem. 9 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at Remember that successful trou- the ignition coil(s) or faulty coil(s) (Chapter 5). bleshooting is not a mysterious art practiced 10 Defective crankshaft sensor, camshaft 1 Vacuum leakage (Chapters 2 and 4). only by professional mechanics. It is simply sensor or PCM (see Chapter 6). 2 Leaking EGR valve or EGR vacuum lines the result of the right knowledge combined (Chapter 6). with an intelligent, systematic approach to 3 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). the problem. Always work by a process of 4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel 3 Engine hard to start when cold elimination, starting with the simplest solution to the fuel injection system (Chapter 4). and working through to the most complex - 5 Leaking head gasket (Chapter 2). 1 Battery discharged or low (Chapter 1). 6 Timing belt and/or pulleys worn (Chap- and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can 2 Malfunctioning fuel system (Chapter 4). ter 2). run the gas tank dry or leave the lights on 3 Faulty coolant temperature sensor or 7 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). overnight, so don't assume that you are intake air temperature sensor (Chapter 6). exempt from such oversights. 4 Fuel injector(s) leaking (Chapter 4). Finally, always establish a clear idea of 5 Faulty ignition system (Chapter 5). why a problem has occurred and take steps 9 Engine misses at idle speed 6 Defective MAP sensor (see Chapter 6). to ensure that it doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor con- 1 Spark plugs worn or not gapped prop- nection, check the other connections in the 4 Engine hard to start when hot erly (Chapter 1). system to make sure that they don't fail as 2 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1). well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, 3 Vacuum leaks (Chapters 2 and 4). find out why - don't just replace one fuse 1 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 4 Faulty ignition coil(s) (Chapter 5). after another. Remember, failure of a small 2 Fuel not reaching the fuel injection sys- 5 Uneven or low compression (Chapter 2). component can often be indicative of poten- tem (Chapter 4). 6 Faulty fuel injector(s) (Chapter 4). tial failure or incorrect functioning of a more 3 Corroded battery connections, espe- important component or system. cially ground (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Faulty coolant temperature sensor or intake air temperature sensor (Chapter 6). 10 Engine misses throughout driving speed range Engine 5 Starter motor noisy or 1 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in excessively rough in engagement the fuel system (Chapter 4). 1 Engine will not rotate when 2 Low fuel output at the fuel injector(s) attempting to start (Chapter 4). 1 Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5). 3 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs 1 Battery terminal connections loose or (Chapter 1). 2 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or corroded (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Defective spark plug wires (Chapters 1 missing (Chapter 5). 2 Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1). or 5). 3 Automatic transaxle not completely 5 Faulty emission system components engaged in Park (Chapter 7B) or clutch pedal (Chapter 6). not completely depressed (Chapter 8). 6 Engine starts but stops 6 Low or uneven cylinder compression 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in i mmediately pressures (Chapter 2). the starting circuit (Chapters 5 and 12). 7 Burned valves (Chapter 2). 5 Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel 1 Loose or faulty electrical connections at 8 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chap- ring gear (Chapter 5). ignition coil (Chapter 5). ter 5). 6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5). 2 Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injec- 9 Vacuum leak in fuel injection system, 7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). tor(s) (Chapters 4). throttle body, intake manifold or vacuum 8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 12). 3 Vacuum leak at the gasket between the hoses (Chapter 4). 9 Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or intake manifold/plenum and throttle body broken (Chapter 5). (Chapter 4). 10 Defective fusible link (see Chapter 12). 4 Fault in the engine control system 11 Engine stumbles on acceleration (Chapter 6). 5 Intake air leaks, broken vacuum lines Engine rotates but will not start (see Chapter 4). 1 Spark plugs fouled (Chapter 1). 2 2 Problem with fuel injection system (Chapter 4). 1 Fuel tank empty. 3 Fuel filter clogged (Chapter 4). 2 Battery discharged (engine rotates slow- Oil puddle under engine 4 Fault in the engine control system ly) (Chapter 5). (Chapter 6). 3 Battery terminal connections loose or 1 Oil pan gasket and/or oil pan drain bolt 5 Intake manifold air leak (Chapters 2 corroded (Chapters 1 and 5). washer leaking (Chapter 2). and 4). 4 Leaking fuel injector(s), faulty fuel pump, 2 Oil pressure sending unit leaking (Chap- 6 EGR system malfunction (Chapter 6). pressure regulator, etc. (Chapter 4). ter 2C).
    18. Troubleshooting 0-21 4 Alternator not charging properly (Chap- 12 Engine surges while holding 16 Pinging or knocking engine ter 5). accelerator steady sounds during acceleration or 5 Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the uphill charging circuit (Chapter 5). 1 Intake air leak (Chapter 4). 6 Short in vehicle wiring (Chapter 12). 2 Fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator 1 Incorrect grade of fuel. 7 Internally defective battery (Chapters 1 faulty (Chapter 4). 2 Problem with the engine control system and 5). 3 Problem with fuel injection system (Chapter 6). (Chapter 4). 3 Fuel injection system faulty (Chapter 4). 4 Problem with the emissions control sys- 4 Improper or damaged spark plugs or Fuel and emissions systems tem (Chapter 6). wires (Chapter 1). 5 EGR valve not functioning (Chapter 6). 6 Vacuum leak (Chapters 2 and 4). 22 CHECK ENGINE light remains on 13 Engine stalls or is flashing 1 Idle speed incorrect (Chapter 1). 17 Engine runs with oil pressure 1 Light remains on: 2 Fuel filter clogged and/or water and light on a) Fuel filler cap (gas cap) is not seated or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 4). tightened properly. 3 Ignition components damp or damaged b) On-Board Diagnostic (OBD-ll) computer 1' Low oil level (Chapter 1). (Chapter 5). has detected an emissions or fuel injec- 2 Idle rpm below specification (Chapter 1). 4 Faulty emissions system components tion component fault (Chapter 6). 3 Short in wiring circuit (Chapter 12). (Chapter 6). 4 Faulty oil pressure sender (Chapter 2C). 2 Light is flashing: 5 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs If the CHECK ENGINE light is flashing, 5 Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 1). (Chapter 2). severe catalytic converter damage has 6 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1). occurred and engine power loss will 7 Vacuum leak in the fuel injection system, soon result. Take the vehicle to your intake manifold or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 18 Engine diesels (continues to run) nearest dealer service department or and 4). after switching off other qualified shop for immediate repair. 14 Engine lacks power 1 Idle speed too high (Chapter 1). 2 Excessive engine operating temperature 23 Excessive fuel consumption 1 Worn camshaft lobes (Chapter 2). (Chapter 3). 2 Burned valves or incorrect valve timing 3 Excessive carbon deposits on valves and pistons (see Chapter 2). 1 Dirty or clogged air filter element (Chap- (Chapter 2). ter 1). 3 Faulty spark plug wires or faulty coil(s) 2 Emissions system not functioning prop- (Chapters 1 and 5). erly (Chapter 6). 4 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs Engine electrical system 3 Fuel injection system not functioning (Chapter 1). Problem with the fuel injection system properly (Chapter 4). 5 19 Alternator light fails to come on 4 Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size (Chapter 4). when key is turned on (Chapter 1). 6 Plugged air filter (Chapter 1). Brakes binding (Chapter 9). 5 Dragging brakes (Chapter 9). 7 8 Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect 1 Warning light bulb defective (Chap- (Chapter 1). ter 12). 9 Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). 24 Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor 2 Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring 10 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in or bulb holder (Chapter 12). the fuel system (Chapter 4). 1 Leaking fuel feed or return line (Chap- 11 Emission control system not functioning ters 1 and 4). properly (Chapter 6). 2 Fuel tank overfilled. 20 Alternator light fails to go out 12 Low or uneven cylinder compression 3 Evaporative canister filter clogged pressures (Chapter 2). (Chapters 1 and 6). 13 Restricted exhaust system or catalytic 1 Faulty alternator or charging circuit 4 Problem with fuel injection system converter (Chapter 4). (Chapter 5). (Chapter 4). 2 Alternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1). 15 Engine backfires 3 Alternator voltage regulator fault (Chap- ter 5). Cooling system 1 Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 25 Overheating 2 Faulty spark plug wires or coil(s) (Chap- 21 Battery will not hold a charge ter 5). 1 Insufficient coolant in system (Chap- 3 Problem with the fuel injection system 1 Alternator drivebelt defective or not ter 1). (Chapter 4). adjusted properly (slipping) (Chapter 1). 2 Water pump defective (Chapter 3). 4 Vacuum leak at fuel injector(s), intake 2 Battery electrolyte level low (not appli- 3 Radiator core blocked or grille restricted manifold or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 cable on maintenance-free batteries) (Chap- (Chapter 3). and 4). ter 1). 4 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). 5 Burned valves or incorrect valve timing 3 Battery terminals loose or corroded 5 Electric cooling fan inoperative or (Chapter 2). (Chapters 1 and 5). blades broken (Chapter 3).
    19. 0-22 Troubleshooting 6 Radiator cap not maintaining proper 33 Clutch slips (engine speed 40 Noise most pronounced when pressure (Chapter 3). increases with no increase in turning vehicle speed) 26 Overcooling 1 Differential gear noise (Chapter 7A).* 1 Clutch plate worn (Chapter 8). 1 Faulty thermostat (Chapter 3). 2 Clutch plate is oil soaked by leaking rear 2 Inaccurate temperature gauge sending main seal (Chapter 8). 41 Clunk on acceleration or unit (Chapter 3). 3 Clutch plate not seated (Chapter 8). deceleration 4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8). 1 Loose engine or transaxle mounts 27 External coolant leakage 5 Weak clutch diaphragm springs (Chap- (Chapters 2 and 7A). ter 8). 2 Worn differential pinion shaft in case.* Deteriorated/damaged hoses; loose 6 Clutch plate overheated. Allow to cool. 1 3 Worn side gear shaft counterbore in dif- clamps (Chapters 1 and 3). 7 Faulty clutch self-adjusting mechanism ferential case (Chapter 7A).* 2 Water pump defective (Chapter 3). (Chapter 8). 4 Worn or damaged driveaxle inboard CV 3 Leakage from radiator core or coolant joints (Chapter 8). reservoir (Chapter 3). 4 Engine drain or water jacket core plugs 34 Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is leaking (Chapter 2). engaged 42 Clicking noise in turns 1 Oil on clutch plate lining, burned or 28 Internal coolant leakage glazed facings (Chapter 8). 1 Worn or damaged outboard CV joint 2 Worn or loose engine or transaxle (Chapter 8). 1 Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chap- mounts (Chapters 2 and 7). ter 2). 3 Worn splines on clutch plate hub (Chap- 2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head ter 8). 43 Vibration (Chapter 2). 4 Warped pressure plate (Chapter 8). 5 Burned or smeared resin on pressure 1 Rough wheel bearing (Chapters 1 plate (Chapter 8). 29 Coolant loss and 10). 2 Damaged driveaxle (Chapter 8). 3 Out of round tires (Chapter 1). 1 Too much coolant in system (Chapter 1). 35 Transaxle rattling (clicking) 4 Tire out of balance (Chapters 1 and 10). 2 Coolant boiling away because of over- Worn CV joint (Chapter 8). 5 heating (Chapter 3). 1 Release fork loose (Chapter 8). 3 Internal or extemal leakage (Chapter 3). 2 Low engine idle speed (Chapter 1). 4 Faulty pressure cap (Chapter 3). 44 Noisy in Neutral with engine 36 Noise in clutch area running 30 Poor coolant circulation 1 Damaged input gear bearing (Chap- 1 Faulty throw-out bearing (Chapter 8). 1 Inoperative water pump (Chapter 3). ter 7A).* 2 Restriction in cooling system (Chap- 2 Damaged clutch release bearing (Chap- ters 1 and 3). ter 8). 3 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3). 37 Clutch pedal stays on floor 1 Broken release bearing or fork (Chap - ter 8). 45 Noisy in one particular gear Clutch 2 Broken or disconnected clutch cable (Chapter 8). 1 Damaged or worn constant mesh gears 31 Pedal travels to floor - no pressure (Chapter 7A).* or very little resistance 2 Damaged or worn synchronizers (Chap- 38 High pedal effort ter 7A).* 3 Bent reverse fork (Chapter 7A).* 1 Broken or disconnected clutch cable 4 Damaged fourth speed gear or output (Chapter 8). 1 Binding clutch cable (Chapter 8). gear (Chapter 7A).* 2 Broken release bearing or fork (Chap- 2 Pressure plate faulty (Chapter 8). 5 Worn or damaged reverse idler gear or ter 8). idler bushing (Chapter 7A).* 32 Unable to select gears Manual transaxle 46 Noisy in all gears 1 Faulty transaxle (Chapter 7). 39 Knocking noise at low speeds 2 Faulty clutch disc or pressure plate 1 Insufficient lubricant (Chapters 1 and 7A). (Chapter 8). 1 Worn driveaxle constant velocity (CV) 2 Damaged or worn bearings (Chap - 3 Faulty release lever or release bearing joints (Chapter 8). ter 7A).* (Chapter 8). 2 Worn side gear shaft counterbore in dif- 3 Worn or damaged input gear shaft 4 Faulty shift lever assembly or rods ferential case (Chapter 7A).* and/or output gear shaft (Chapter 7A).* (Chapter 8).
    20. Troubleshooting 0-23 b) Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7). Driveaxles 47 Slips out of gear c) Transaxle oil cooler lines (Chapter 7). d) Speed sensor (Chapter 7). e) Driveaxle oil seals (Chapter 7). 56 Clicking noise in turns 1 Worn or improperly adjusted linkage (Chapter 7A). 2 Transaxle loose on engine (Chapter 7A). 1 Worn or damaged outboard CV joint 3 Shift linkage does not work freely, binds (Chapter 8). 51 Transaxle fluid brown or has a (Chapter 7A). 4 Input gear bearing retainer broken or burned smell loose (Chapter 7A).* 57 Shudder or vibration during 5 Dirt between clutch cover and engine 1 Transaxle fluid overheated - change fluid and filter (Chapter 1). acceleration housing (Chapter 7A). 6 Worn shift fork (Chapter 7A).* 1 Excessive toe-in (Chapter 10). 2 Incorrect spring heights (Chapter 10). 52 General shift mechanism 3 Worn or damaged inboard or outboard 48 Leaks lubricant problems CV joints (Chapter 8). 4 Sticking inboard CV joint assembly 1 Driveshaft seals worn (Chapter 7A). 1 Chapter 7, Part B, deals with checking (Chapter 8). 2 Excessive amount of lubricant in and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxle (Chapters 1 and 7A). transaxles. Common problems which may be 3 Loose or broken input gear shaft bear- attributed to poorly adjusted linkage are: 58 Vibration at highway speeds ing retainer (Chapter 7A).* a) Engine starting in gears other than Park 4 Input gear bearing retainer 0-ring and/or or Neutral. li p seal damaged (Chapter 7A).* 1 Out of balance front wheels and/or tires b) Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear 5 Vehicle speed sensor 0-ring leaking (Chapters 1 and 10). other than the one actually being used. (Chapter 7A). 2 Out of round front tires (Chapters 1 c) Vehicle moves when in Park. and 10). 2 Refer to Chapter 7B for the shift linkage 3 Worn CV joint(s) (Chapter 8). adjustment procedure. 49 Hard to shift 1 Shift linkage loose or worn (Chapter 7A). 53 Transaxle will not downshift with 2 Crossover cable out of adjustment. accelerator pedal pressed to the *Although the corrective action necessary to floor Brakes remedy the symptoms described is beyond the scope of this manual, the above informa- Note: Before assuming that a brake problem 1 The transaxle is electronically con- tion should be helpful in isolating the cause of exists, make sure that: trolled. This type of problem - which is the condition so that the owner can commu- a) The tires are in good condition and caused by a malfunction in the Transmission nicate clearly with a professional mechanic. properly inflated (Chapter 1). Control Module (TCM), a sensor or solenoid, or the circuit itself - is beyond the scope of b) The front end alignment is correct this manual. Have the problem diagnosed by (Chapter 10). a dealer service department or other qualified c) The vehicle is not loaded with weight in automatic transmission shop. an unequal manner. Automatic transaxle Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic 59 Vehicle pulls to one side during transaxle, it is difficult for the home mechanic 54 Engine will start in gears other braking to properly diagnose and service this compo- than Park or Neutral nent. For problems other than the following, 1 Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1). the vehicle should be taken to a dealer ser- 1 Neutral start switch out of adjustment or 2 Front end out of alignment (have the vice department or other qualified transmis- malfunctioning (Chapter 7B). front end aligned). sion shop. Front tire sizes or tread types not 3 matched to one another. 50 Fluid leakage 4 Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chap- 55 Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is ter 9). noisy or has no drive in forward 5 Malfunctioning/leaking brake cylinder or 1 Automatic transaxle fluid is a deep red or reverse gears caliper assembly (Chapter 9). color. Fluid leaks should not be confused 6 Loose suspension parts (Chapter 10). with engine oil, which can easily be blown 1 There are many probable causes for the 7 Loose calipers (Chapter 9). onto the transaxle by air flow. above problems, but the home mechanic 8 Excessive wear of brake shoe or pad 2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built- should be concerned with only one possibility material or disc/drum on one side. up dirt and grime from the transaxle housing - fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a with degreasing agents and/or steam clean- repair shop, check the level and condition of ing. Then drive the vehicle at low speeds so the fluid and/or filter as described in Chap- 60 Noise (high-pitched squeal when air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine ter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary or the brakes are applied) change the fluid and filter if needed. If the where the leak is coming from. Common problem persists, have a professional diag- areas of leakage are: 1 Front disc brake pads worn out. The nose the cause. a) Pan (Chapters 1 and 7) noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing
    21. 0-24 Troubleshooting against the disc (does not apply to all vehi- cles). Replace pads with new ones immedi- 66 Brake pedal feels spongy when 71 Wheel makes a thumping noise ately (Chapter 9). depressed 1 Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 10). 1 Air in hydraulic lines (Chapter 9). 2 Faulty shock absorber(s) (Chapter 10). 61 Brake roughness or chatter 2 Master cylinder mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9). (pedal pulsates) 3 Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9). 72 Shimmy, shake or vibration 1 Excessive lateral runout (Chapter 9). 1 Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-of- 2 Uneven pad wear (Chapter 9). 67 Brake pedal travels to the floor round (Chapter 10). 3 Defective disc (Chapter 9). 4 If the vehicle is equipped with an anti- with little resistance 2 Loose or worn wheel bearings (Chap- ters 1, 8 and 10). lock brake system (ABS), brake pedal pulsa- tion and associated noises are normal when 1 Little or no fluid in the master cylinder 3 Worn tie-rod ends (Chapter 10). reservoir caused by leaking caliper piston(s) 4 Worn lower balljoints (Chapters 1 severe braking is required. (Chapter 9). and 10). 2 Loose, damaged or disconnected brake 5 Excessive wheel runout (Chapter 10). li nes (Chapter 9). 6 Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 10). 62 Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle 68 Parking brake does not hold 73 Hard steering 1 Malfunctioning power brake booster (Chapter 9). 1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints, tie-rod 1 Parking brake cables improperly 2 Partial system failure (Chapter 9). adjusted (Chapters 1 and 9). ends and rack and pinion assembly ,(Chap- 3 Excessively worn pads or shoes (Chap- ter 10). ter 9). 2 Low power steering fluid level (Chap- 4 Piston in caliper or wheel cylinder stuck ter 1). or sluggish (Chapter 9). 3 Faulty power steering pump (Chap- 5 Brake pads or shoes contaminated with ter 10). oil or grease (Chapter 9). 4 Front wheel alignment out-of-specifica- 6 Brake disc grooved and/or glazed Suspension and steering systems tions (Chapter 10). (Chapter 1). Note: Before attempting to diagnose suspen- 5 Low tire pressure(s) (Chapters 1 and 10). 7 New pads or shoes installed and not yet sion and steering system problems, perform seated. It will take a while for the new mate- the following preliminary checks: rial to seat against the disc or drum. a) Tires for wrong pressure and uneven 74 Poor returnability of steering to wear. center b) Steering universal joints from the col- 63 Excessive brake pedal travel umn to the rack and pinion for loose 1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie- connectors or wear. rod ends (Chapter 10). c) Front and rear suspension and the rack 1 Partial brake system failure (Chapter 9). and pinion assembly for loose or dam- 2 Binding in balljoints (Chapter 10). 2 Insufficient fluid in master cylinder aged parts. 3 Binding in steering column (Chapter 10). (Chapters 1 and 9). 4 Lack of lubricant in steering gear d) Out-of-round or out-of-balance tires, 3 Air trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9). assembly (Chapter 10). bent rims and loose and/or rough wheel 5 Front wheel alignment out-of-specifica- bearings. tions (Chapter 10). 64 Dragging brakes 69 Vehicle pulls to one side 75 Abnormal noise at the front end 1 Incorrect adjustment of brake light 1 Mismatched or uneven tires (Chap- switch (Chapter 9). ter 10). 1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie- 2 Master cylinder pistons not returning 2 Broken or sagging coil springs (Chap- rod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). correctly (Chapter 9). ter 10). 2 Damaged strut mounting (Chapter 10). 3 Restricted brakes lines or hoses (Chap- 3 Wheel alignment out-of-specification 3 Worn control arm bushings or tie-rod ters 1 and 9). (Chapter 10). ends (Chapter 10). 4 Incorrect parking brake adjustment 4 Front brake dragging (Chapter 9). 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). (Chapter 9). 5 Loose wheel nuts (Chapters 1 and 10). 6 Loose suspension bolts (Chapter 10) 70 Abnormal or excessive tire wear 65 Grabbing or uneven braking action 1 Wheel alignment out-of-specification 76 Wander or poor steering stability (Chapter 10). 1 Malfunction of proportioning valve 2 Sagging or broken coil springs (Chap- 1 Mismatched or unevenly worn tires (Chapter 9). ter 10). (Chapter 10). 2 Malfunction of power brake booster unit 3 Tire out-of-balance (Chapter 10). 2 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie- (Chapter 9). 4 Worn shock absorber (Chapter 10). rod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). 3 Binding brake pedal mechanism (Chap- 5 Overloaded vehicle. 3 Bad shock absorber(s) (Chapter 10). ter 9). 6 Tires not rotated regularly. 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10).
    22. Troubleshooting 0-25 5 Broken or sagging coil springs (Chap- 3 Incorrect, broken or sagging coil springs 2 Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out). ter 10). (Chapter 10). Have professionally aligned. 6 Wheels out of alignment (Chapter 10). 3 Loose or damaged steering compo- nents (Chapter 10). 80 Cupped tires 77 Erratic steering when braking 1 Front wheel or rear wheel alignment out- 83 Tire tread worn in one place 1 Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 10). of-specifications (Chapter 10). 2 Broken or sagging coil springs (Chap- 2 Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10). 1 Tires out-of-balance. ter 10). 3 Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 10). 2 Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and 3 Leaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chap- 4 Excessive tire or wheel runout (Chap- replace if necessary. ter 10). ter 10). 3 Defective tire (Chapter 1). 4 Warped rotors or drums (Chapter 10). 5 Worn balljoints (Chapter 10). 78 Excessive pitching and/or rolling 81 Excessive tire wear on outside 84 Excessive play or looseness in around corners or during braking edge steering system 1 Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1). 1 Wheel bearing(s) worn (Chapter 10). 1 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). 2 Tie-rod end loose (Chapter 10). 2 • Worn shock absorbers or mountings 2 Excessive speed during turns. 3 Steering gear loose (Chapter 10). (Chapter 10). 3 Front end alignment incorrect (excessive Broken or sagging coil springs (Chap- toe-in). Have professionally aligned. 4 Worn or loose steering intermediate 3 shaft (Chapter 10). ter 10). 4 Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chap- 4 Overloaded vehicle. ter 10). 85 Rattling or clicking noise in 79 Suspension bottoms 82 Excessive tire wear on inside steering gear edge 1 Overloaded vehicle. 1 Steering gear loose (Chapter 10). 2 Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10). 1 Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1). 2 Steering gear defective.
    23. 0-26 Troubleshooting Notes
    24. 1-1 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Contents Section Section Air filter replacement ...................................................................... 22 Introduction .................................................................................... 2 Automatic transaxle fluid and filter change .................................... 23 Maintenance schedule ................................................................... 1 Automatic transaxle fluid level check ............................................. 6 Manual transaxle lubricant change ................................................ 24 Battery check, maintenance and charging .................................... 9 Manual transaxle lubricant level check .......................................... 16 Brake system check ....................................................................... 18 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check Chassis lubrication ......................................................................... 21 and replacement....................................................................... 28 Cooling system check .................................................................... 10 Power steering fluid level check .................................................... 7 Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) ............. 25 Spark plug check and replacement ............................................... 27 Driveaxle boot check ..................................................................... 17 Spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor - check Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement .............................. 20 and replacement ....................................................................... 29 Engine oil and filter change ............................................................ 8 Steering and suspension check ..................................................... 14 Evaporative emissions control system check ................................ 26 Tire and tire pressure checks ......................................................... 5 Exhaust system check ................................................................... 15 Tire rotation .................................................................................... 13 Fluid level checks ........................................................................... 4 Tune-up general information .......................................................... 3 Fuel filter replacement .................................................................... 30 Underhood hose check and replacement ...................................... 11 Fuel system hoses and connections check................................... 19 Wiper blade inspection and replacement ...................................... 12 Specifications Recommended lubricants and fluids Engine oil Type............................................................................................................ API Certified, SG, SG/CD, SH, or SH/CD multi-grade and fuel efficient oil Viscosity ..................................................................................................... See accompanying chart Manual transaxle lubricant ............................................................................... Mopar manual transaxle fluid type MS 9417 or equivalent Automatic transaxle fluid ..................................................................................Mopar automatic transaxle fluid ATF type 7176 or equivalent HOT WEATHER Engine oil viscosity chart - For best fuel economy and cold starting, select the lowest SAE viscosity grade for the expected temperature range LOOK FOR ONE OF THESE LABELS ME 5W-30 COLD WEATHER 1-a3 HAYNES
    25. 1-2 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Recommended lubricants and fluids Power steering fluid ................................................................................. Mopar power steering fluid or equivalent Brake fluid ................................................................................................ DOT 3 brake fluid Engine coolant ......................................................................................... 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and water Parking brake mechanism grease ........................................................... White lithium-based grease NLGI no. 2 Chassis lubrication grease ...................................................................... NLGI no. 2 LB grease Hood, door and trunk hinge lubricant ..................................................... Engine oil Hood latch, door hinge and check spring grease ................................... NLGI no. 2 multi-purpose grease Key lock cylinder lubricant ...................................................................... Graphite spray Door latch striker lubricant ...................................................................... Mopar Door Ease no. 3744859 or equivalent . Capacities* Engine oil (including filter) V6 and 2.0L four-cylinder engines..................................................... 4.5 quarts 2.4L four-cylinder engine ................................................................... 5.0 quarts Fuel tank.................................................................................................. 16 gallons Automatic transaxle Dry fill (including torque converter) .................................................... 9.1 quarts Drain and refill .................................................................................... 4.0 quarts Manual transaxle ..................................................................................... 2.2 quarts Cooling system 2.0L four-cylinder engine ................................................................... 8.5 quarts 2.4L four-cylinder engine.................................................................... 9.0 quarts V6 engine........................................................................................... 10.5 quarts All capacities approximate. Add as necessary to bring to appropriate level. Brakes Disc brake pad wear limit ........................................................................ 1/8 inch Drum brake shoe wear limit .............................................. :..................... 1/16 inch Ignition system Spark plug type 2.0L four-cylinder engine ................................................................... Champion RCY9C or equivalent 2.4L four-cylinder engine................................................................... Champion RC12YC5 or equivalent V6 engine........................................................................................... Champion RC10PYP4 or equivalent Spark plug gap 2.0L four-cylinder engine ................................................................... 0.033 to 0.038 inch 2.4L four-cylinder engine................................................................... 0.048 to 0.053 inch V6....................................................................................................... 0.038 to 0.043 inch Spark plug wire resistance Four-cylinder engines Wire numbers 1 and 4 .................................................................. 3,500 to 4,900 ohms Wire numbers 2 and 3................................................................... 2,950 to 4,100 ohms V6 engine Minimum ....................................................................................... 250 ohms per inch (3,000 ohms per foot) Maximum...................................................................................... 560 ohms per inch (6,700 ohms per foot) Firing order Four-cylinder engines ......................................................................... 1-3-4-2 V6 engine........................................................................................... 1-2-3-4-5-6 FRONT V6 engine cylinder OF numbering and 0000 VEHICLE distributor cap terminal locations 1, 125015-1-SPECS. HAYNES' 01 4 FIRING ORDER Four-cylinder engine cylinder numbering and FRONT 1-2-3-4-5-6 coil terminal locations OF VEHICLE
    26. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-3 Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Automatic transaxle oil pan bolts ............................................................ 165 in-lbs Engine oil pan drain plug ......................................................................... 25 Manual transaxle drain plug .................................................................... 22 Spark plugs.............................................................................................. 20 Wheel lug nuts......................................................................................... 80 to 110 1 Typical engine compartment layout (V6 engine shown) 1 Power steering fluid reservoir 8 Upper radiator hose 2 Brake fluid reservoir 9 Engine coolant pressure/filler cap 3 Transmission fluid dipstick 10 Spark plug boot 4 Battery negative remote terminal 11 Engine oil filler cap 5 Air filter housing 12 Engine oil dipstick 6 Battery positive remote terminal 13 Windshield washer reservoir 7 Power Distribution Center (PDC) - fuses and relays 14 Engine coolant reservoir
    27. 1-4 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Typical engine compartment underside components (V6 engine shown) 1 Air conditioning compressor 2 Engine oil drain plug 3 Engine oil filter 4 Exhaust crossover pipe 5 Starter motor 6 Automatic transaxle fluid pan 7 Driveaxle inner CV joint boot 8 Front suspension crossmember 9 Battery location (inside fenderwell) 10 Driveaxle outer CV joint boot 11 Front brake caliper 12 Front stabilizer bar 13 Catalytic converter 14 Shock absorber lower mount 15 Front suspension lower control arm Typical rear underside components 1 Rear suspension upper control arm 2 Rear stabilizer bar 3 Lateral links 4 Fuel tank drain plug 5 Fuel tank retaining straps 6 Rear suspension crossmember 7 Muffler 8 Coil/shock absorber assembly 9 Trailing arm
    28. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-5 1 Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, and Plymouth Breeze maintenance schedule The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumption Check the fuel system hoses and connections for leaks and that the vehicle owner will be doing the maintenance or service work, damage (see Section 19) as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work. Check the drivebelts and adjust if necessary (see Section 20) Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory rec- ommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that such items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervals Every 30,000 miles or 24 months, that promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject to the preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or her whichever comes first vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle's ultimate 1 resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be per- All items listed above, plus: formed more often than recommended in the following schedule. We Lubricate the front and rear suspension and steering ball joints encourage such owner initiative. (see Section 21)* When the vehicle is new it should be serviced initially by a factory Replace the air filter element (see Section 22)* authorized dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter In many cases the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the (see Section 23)* owner (check with your dealer service department for more informa- Change the manual transaxle lubricant (see Section 24)* tion). Check the fuel evaporative emission system hoses (see Section 26) Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first Replace the spark plugs (four-cylinder engines) (see Section 27) Check the engine oil level; add oil as necessary (see Section 4) Check the spark plug wires (see Section 29) Check the engine coolant level; add coolant as necessary Drain and replace the engine coolant (see Section 25) (see Section 4) Check the windshield washer fluid level (see Section 4) Check the brake fluid level (see Section 4) Every 60,000 miles or 48 months, Check the tires and tire pressures (see Section 5) whichever comes first Check the automatic transaxle fluid level (see Section 6) Check the power steering fluid level (see Section 7) All items listed above, plus: Check the operation of all lights Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve Check the horn operation (see Section 28)* Replace drivebelts (see Section 20) Every 7500 miles or 6 months, Replace spark plug wires (four-cylinder engines) (see Section 29) whichever comes first Change the engine oil and filter (see Section 8)* Every 100,000 miles or 84 months, Check and clean the battery and terminals (see Section 9) Check the manual transaxle fluid level (see Section 16) whichever comes first Check the cooling system hoses and connections for leaks and damage (see Section 10) Replace the spark plugs (V6 engine) (see Section 27)* Check the condition of all vacuum hoses and connections Replace the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor (see Section 11) (V6 engine) (see Section 29)* Check the wiper blade condition (see Section 12) Replace the timing belt (see Chapter 2) Rotate the tires (see Section 13) *This item is affected by "severe" operating conditions as Check for free play in the steering linkage and ball joints described below. If the vehicle in question is operated under (see Section 14) Check the CV joints and front suspension components "severe" conditions, perform all maintenance procedures marked (see Section 14) with an asterisk (*) at the intervals specified by the mileage headings below. Check the driveaxle boots (see Section 17) Check the exhaust pipes and hangers (see Section 15) Consider the conditions "severe" if most driving is done .. . Inspect brake hoses (see Section 11) In dusty areas Towing a trailer Every 15,000 miles or 12 months, Idling for extended periods and/or low-speed operation When outside temperatures remain below freezing and most whichever comes first trips are less than four miles In heavy city traffic where outside temperatures regularly reach All items listed above, plus: 90-degrees F or higher Check the brake system (see Section 18)
    29. 1-6 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Maintenance schedule (continued) Every 3000 miles Every 30,000 miles Change the engine oil and filter (see Section 8) Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve (see Section 28) Every 15,000 miles Every 75,000 miles Check and replace, if necessary, the air filter element (see Section 22) Replace the spark plugs (V6 engine) (see Section 27) Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter (see Section 23) Replace the spark plug wires (V6 engine) (see Section 29) Change the manual transaxle lubricant (see Section 24) Lubricate the front and rear suspension and steering ball joints (see Section 21) job, seek advice from a mechanic or an expe- Clean, inspect and test the battery 2 Introduction rienced do-it-yourselfer. (see Section 9) Replace the spark plugs (see This Chapter is designed to help the Section 27) home mechanic maintain the Chrysler Cirrus, 3 Tune-up general information Inspect the spark plug wires (see Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze models Section 29) with the goals of maximum performance, Check and adjust the drivebelts (see The term "tune-up" is used in this man- economy, safety and reliability in mind. Section 20) ual to represent a combination of individual Included is a master maintenance Check the air filter (see Section 22) operations rather than one specific proce- schedule, followed by procedures dealing Check the PCV valve (see Section 28) dure. specifically with each item on the schedule. Check all underhood hoses (see If, from the time the vehicle is new, the Visual checks, adjustments, component Section 11) routine maintenance schedule is followed replacement and other helpful items are Service the cooling system (see closely and frequent checks are made of fluid included. Refer to the accompanying illustra- Section 25) levels and high wear items, as suggested tions of the engine compartment and the throughout this manual, the engine will be underside of the vehicle for the locations of Major tune-up kept in relatively good running condition and various components. the need for additional work will be mini- All items listed under Minor tune-up plus .. . Adhering to the mileage/time mainte- mized. Replace the air filter (see Section 22) nance schedule and following the step-by- More likely than not, however, there will Check the fuel system (see Section 19) step procedures, which is simply a preventive be times when the engine is running poorly Check the charging system (see maintenance program, will result in maximum due to lack of regular maintenance. This is Chapter 5) reliability and vehicle service life. Keep in even more likely if a used vehicle, which has- mind that it's a comprehensive program - n't received regular and frequent mainte- maintaining some items but not others at the nance checks, is purchased. In such cases, specified intervals will not produce the same an engine tune-up will be needed outside of 4 Fluid level checks (every 250 results. miles or weekly) the regular routine maintenance intervals. As you service the vehicle, you'll dis- The first step in any tune-up or diagnos- cover that many of the procedures can - and tic procedure to help correct a poor running Note: The following are fluid level checks to should - be grouped together because of the engine is a cylinder compression check. A be done on a 250 mile or weekly basis. Addi- nature of the particular procedure you're per- compression check (see Chapter 2, Part C) tional fluid level checks can be found in spe- forming or because of the close proximity of will help determine the condition of internal cific maintenance procedures which follow. two otherwise unrelated components to one engine components and should be used as a Regardless of the intervals, develop the habit another. guide for tune-up and repair procedures. For of checking under the vehicle periodically for For example, if the vehicle is raised, you instance, if a compression check indicates evidence of fluid leaks. should inspect the exhaust, suspension, serious internal engine wear, a conventional 1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubri- steering and fuel systems while you're under tune-up will not improve the performance of cation, cooling, brake and window washer the vehicle. When you're rotating the tires, it the engine and would be a waste of time and systems. Because the fluids gradually makes good sense to check the brakes, money. Because of its importance, the com- become depleted and/or contaminated dur- since the wheels are already removed. pression check should be done by someone ing normal operation of the vehicle, they must Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow or with the right equipment and the knowledge be replenished periodically. See Recom- rent a torque wrench. Even if you only need it to use it properly. mended lubricants and fluids at the beginning to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well The following procedures are those of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of check the torque of as many critical fasteners most often needed to bring a generally poor the following components. Note: The vehicle as time allows. running engine back into a proper state of must be on level ground when fluid levels are The first step in this maintenance pro- tune: checked. gram is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the procedures Minor tune-up Engine oil you're planning to do, then gather up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks like you Check all engine related fluids Refer to illustrations 4.2a, 4.2b, 4.4 and 4.5 (see Section 4) 2 The engine oil level is checked with a might run into problems during a particular
    30. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-7 4.4 The oil level should be between the notches on the dipstick - if it isn't, add enough oil to bring the level up to or near 4.2a The engine oil dipstick is located at 4.2b Engine oil dipstick location - the upper notch (do not overfill) 1 the front left (passenger's) side of the V6 engine engine (four-cylinder engine shown) dipstick which is located on the side of the engine facing the front of the vehicle (see illustrations). The dipstick extends through a tube and into the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. 3 The oil level should be checked before the vehicle has been driven, or about 15 min- utes after the engine has been shut off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick. 4 Pull the dipstick out of the tube and wipe all the oil off the end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into the tube, then pull it out again. Note the oil level at the end of the dipstick. 4.5 Turn the oil filler cap 4.9 With the engine COLD, remove the Add oil as necessary to bring the oil level to counterclockwise to remove it engine coolant pressure cap - the coolant the second notch in the dipstick (see illus- (four-cylinder engine shown) level should be up to the pressure cap tration). seat inside the filler neck 5 Oil is added to the engine after removing a cap located on the valve cover (see illus- Engine coolant coolant to escape through a valve in the radi- tration). The cap will be marked "Engine oil". Refer to illustrations 4.9 and 4.10 ator cap and travel through the hose and into Use a funnel to reduce spills as the oil is Warning: Do not allow coolant (antifreeze) to the coolant reservoir. As the engine cools, the added. come in contact with your skin or painted sur- coolant in the reservoir is automatically 6 Don't allow the level to drop below the faces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated drawn back into the cooling system via the lower notch on the dipstick or engine dam- areas immediately with plenty of water. Don't vacuum created by the contracting coolant. age may occur. On the other hand, don't store new coolant or leave old coolant lying This recovery type system maintains the overfill the engine by adding too much oil - it around where it's accessible to children or maximum amount of coolant available at all may result in oil aeration and loss of oil pres- pets - they're attracted by its sweet smell. ti mes. sure and also could result in oil fouled spark Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant 9 Warning: Never remove the pressure plugs, oil leaks or seal failures. can be fatal! Wipe up garage floor and drip cap on the filler neck to add coolant while the 7 Checking the oil level is an important pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze con- engine is warm! If the cap feels even slightly preventive maintenance step. A consistently tainers covered and repair cooling system warm, wrap a towel or rag around the cap low oil level indicates oil leakage through leaks as soon as they are noticed. Check with and open it very slowly. With the engine cold, damaged seals, defective gaskets or past local authorities about the disposal of used remove the coolant system filler cap (see worn rings or valve guides. If the oil looks antifreeze. Many communities have collection illustration). The coolant level should be up milky in color or has water droplets in it, the centers which will see that antifreeze is dis- to the pressure cap seat inside the filler neck. block or head may be cracked and leaking posed of properly. If it is low, add a mixture of high-quality coolant is entering the crankcase. The engine 8 All vehicles covered by this manual are antifreeze/coolant and water in the ratio should be checked immediately. The condi- equipped with a pressurized coolant recovery specified on the antifreeze container or in this tion of the oil should also be checked. Each system. A coolant reservoir (expansion tank) Chapter's Specification Section to bring it up ti me you check the oil level, slide your thumb is attached to the engine compartment fire- to the correct level. and index finger up the dipstick before wiping wall on the right (passenger's) side is con- 10 The coolant level in the recovery tank off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal parti- nected by a hose to the engine coolant sys- should be checked while the engine is at nor- cles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be tem filler neck. As the engine warms up, the mal operating temperature. Simply note the changed (see Section 8). system pressure increases causing some fluid level in the reservoir - it should be at or
    31. 1-8 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 4.10 Engine coolant (1) and windshield 4.17 The brake fluid level, indicated on 5.2 Use a tire tread depth indicator to washer (2) reservoirs the translucent white plastic brake fluid monitor tire wear - they are available at reservoir, should be kept at the FULL auto parts stores or service stations and mark (arrow) are relatively inexpensive close to the FULL HOT mark when the engine is at normal operating temperature (see illus- tration). Brake fluid repeated replenishing to maintain the correct level, there is a leak in the brake system 11 If only a small amount of coolant is Refer to illustration 4.17 required to bring the system up to the proper which should be corrected immediately. 16 The brake fluid reservoir is located on level, ordinary tap water may be used. How- Check all brake lines and connections, along top of the brake master cylinder on the with the wheel cylinders and vacuum booster ever, to maintain the proper antifreeze/water driver's side of the engine compartment near (see Section 18 and Chapter 9 for more infor- mixture in the system, a blend of high-quality the firewall. antifreeze/coolant and water in the ratio mation). 17 The brake fluid level should be main- 22 If you discover that the reservoir is specified on the antifreeze container or in this tained at the FULL mark on the reservoir (see Chapter's Specification Section should be empty or nearly empty, the brake system illustration). added. should be thoroughly inspected, refilled and 18 If additional fluid is necessary to bring then bled (see Chapter 9). 12 As the coolant level is checked, note the the level up, use a rag to clean all dirt off the condition of the coolant as well. It should be top of the reservoir. If any foreign matter relatively clean and the color of new enters the reservoir when the cap is removed, antifreeze. If it's brown or rust colored, the blockage in the brake system lines can occur. 5 Tire and tire pressure checks system should be drained, flushed and Also, make sure all painted surfaces around (every 250 miles or weekly) refilled (see Section 25). the master cylinder are covered, since brake 13 If the coolant level drops consistently, fluid will ruin paint. Carefully pour new, clean Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b and there is a leak in the system. Check the radia- brake fluid obtained from a sealed container 5.8 tor, hoses, filler cap, drain plugs and water into the master cylinder. Be careful not to 1 Periodic inspection of the tires may pump (see Section 25). If no leaks are noted, spill the fluid on painted surfaces. Be sure the spare you the inconvenience of being have the filler cap and coolant system pres- specified fluid is used; mixing different types stranded with a flat tire. It can also provide sure tested by your dealer service depart- of brake fluid can cause damage to the sys- you with vital information regarding possible ment or other qualified service station. tem. See Recommended lubricants and fluids problems in the steering and suspension sys- at the beginning of this Chapter or your tems before major damage occurs. Windshield washer fluid owner's manual. 2 The original tires on this vehicle are 14 The fluid for the windshield washer sys- 19 At this time the fluid and the master equipped with 1/2-inch wide bands that will tem is stored in a plastic reservoir. The reser- cylinder should be inspected for contamina- appear when tread depth reaches 1/16-inch, voir level should be maintained about one tion. Normally the brake hydraulic system but they don't appear until the tires are worn inch below the filler cap. The reservoir is won't need periodic draining and refilling, but out. Tread wear can be monitored with a sim- accessible after opening the hood and is if rust deposits, dirt particles or water ple, inexpensive device known as a tread located on the right (passenger's) side of the droplets are observed in the fluid, the system depth indicator (see illustration). engine compartment next to the coolant should be dismantled, cleaned and refilled 3 Note any abnormal tread wear (see recovery tank (see illustration 4.10). with fresh fluid. Over time brake fluid will illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such 15 In milder climates, plain water can be absorb moisture from the air. The moisture in as cupping, flat spots and more wear on one used in the reservoir, but it should be kept no the fluid then produces rust in the system side than the other are indications of front more than two-thirds full to allow for expan- and lowers the fluid boiling point increasing end alignment and/or balance problems. If sion if the water freezes. In colder climates, the possibility of premature brake failure. any of these conditions are noted, take the use windshield washer system antifreeze, Normal brake fluid is clear in color. If the vehicle to a tire shop or service station to cor- available at any auto parts store, to lower the brake fluid is dark brown in color or is over rect the problem. freezing point of the fluid. Mix the antifreeze three years old, its a good idea to flush the 4 Look closely for cuts, punctures and with water in accordance with the manufac- system and refill it with new fluid. embedded nails or tacks. Sometimes a tire turer's directions on the container. Caution: 20 Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir cap. will hold air pressure for a short time or leak DO NOT use cooling system antifreeze - it will 21 The brake fluid in the master cylinder down very slowly after a nail has embedded damage the vehicle's paint. To help prevent will drop slightly as the brake shoes and pads itself in the tread. If a slow leak persists, icing in cold weather, warm the windshield at each wheel wear down during normal check the valve stem core to make sure it's with the defroster before using the washer. operation. If the master cylinder requires tight (see illustration). Examine the tread for
    32. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-9 CUPPING Cupping may be caused by: • Underinflation and/or mechanical irregularities such as out-of-balance condition of wheel and/or tire, and bent or damaged wheel. UNDERINFLATION Loose or worn steering tie-rod or steering idler arm. *Loose, damaged or worn front 5.4a If a tire loses air on a steady basis, suspension parts, check the valve core first to make sure it's 1 snug (special inexpensive wrenches are commonly available at auto parts stores) INCORRECT TOE-1N OVERINFLATION FEATHERING DUE OR EXTREME CAMBER TO MISALIGNMENT 5.3 This chart will help you determine the condition of the tires, the probable cause(s) of abnormal wear and the corrective action necessary an object that may have embedded itself in 8 Unscrew the valve cap protruding from 5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the the tire or for a "plug" that may have begun to the wheel or hubcap and push the gauge corner of the vehicle with the low tire and leak (radial tire punctures are repaired with a firmly onto the valve stem (see illustration). spray a soapy water solution onto the plug that's installed in a puncture). If a punc- Compare the reading on the gauge to the tread as the tire is turned slowly - leaks ture is suspected, it can be easily verified by recommended tire pressure shown on the will cause small bubbles to appear spraying a solution of soapy water onto the placard on the driver's side door pillar. Be puncture area (see illustration). The soapy sure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt and solution will bubble if there's a leak. Unless moisture out of the valve stem mechanism. the puncture is unusually large, a tire shop or Check all four tires and, if necessary, add service station can usually repair the tire. enough air to bring them up to the recom- 5 Carefully inspect the inner sidewall of mended pressure. each tire for evidence of brake fluid leakage. 9 Don't forget to keep the spare tire If you see any, inspect the brakes immedi- inflated to the specified pressure (refer to ately. your owner's manual or the tire sidewall). 6 Correct air pressure adds miles to the Note that the pressure recommended for the life span of the tires, improves mileage and compact spare is higher than for the tires on enhances overall ride quality. Tire pressure the vehicle. cannot be accurately estimated by looking at a tire, especially if it's a radial. A tire pressure gauge is essential. Keep an accurate gauge Automatic transaxle - fluid level in the vehicle. The pressure gauges attached check (every 250 miles or weekly) to the nozzles of air hoses at gas stations are often inaccurate. Refer to illustration 6.4 7 Always check tire pressure when the tires are cold. Cold, in this case, means the 1 The fluid inside the transaxle should be at normal operating temperature to get an 5.8 To extend the life of the tires, check vehicle has not been driven over a mile in the accurate reading on the dipstick. This is done the air pressure at least once a week with three hours preceding a tire pressure check. by driving the vehicle for several miles, mak- an accurate gauge (don't forget A pressure rise of four to eight pounds is not ing frequent starts and stops to allow the the spare!) uncommon once the tires are warm.
    33. 1-10 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 6.4 Check the fluid with the transaxle at normal operating 7.2 The power steering reservoir is located on the right temperature - the level should be kept in the HOT range, between (passenger's) side rear of the engine compartment the two upper holes (arrows) (2.5L engine shown) transaxle to shift through all gears. 2 Park the vehicle on a level surface and 7 Power steering fluid level check apply the parking brake. With the engine run- (every 250 miles or weekly) ning, apply the brakes and place the gear selector lever momentarily in Reverse, then Refer to illustrations 7.2 and 7.5 Drive and repeat the sequence again ending 1 Unlike manual steering, the power steer- with the gear selector in the Park position. ing system relies on hydraulic fluid which 3 With the engine still running, locate the may, over a period of time require replenish- transaxle fluid dipstick near the brake fluid ing. reservoir. The dipstick has a "T" handle and 2 The fluid reservoir for the power steering is identified as "TRANS FLUID". Remove the pump is located at the rear of the engine dipstick and wipe the fluid from the end with compartment on the right (passenger's) side a clean rag. (see illustration). 4 Insert the dipstick back into the 3 The power steering fluid level can be transaxle until the cap seats completely. checked with the engine either hot or cold. Remove the dipstick again and note the fluid 4 With the engine off, use a rag to clean level on the end. The level should be in the 7.5 The power steering fluid dipstick on the reservoir cap and the area around the area marked Hot (between the two upper most models is marked on both sides for cap. This will help prevent foreign material checking the fluid level (the arrow is holes in the dipstick) (see illustration). If the from falling into the reservoir when the cap is fluid isn't hot (temperature approximately pointing to the COLD level mark) removed. 100-degrees F), the level should be in the 5 Turn and pull out the reservoir cap, area marked Warm (between the two lower mechanic. When engine oil ages, it gets which has a dipstick attached to it. Wipe the holes). diluted and contaminated, which ultimately fluid at the bottom of the dipstick with a clean 5 If the fluid level is at or below the ADD leads to premature engine wear. rag. Reinstall the cap to get a fluid level read- mark on the dipstick, add just enough of the 2 Although some sources recommend oil ing. Remove the cap again and note the fluid specified fluid (see Recommended lubricants filter changes every other oil change, a new level. It should be at the appropriate mark on and fluids at the beginning of this Chapter) to filter should be installed every time the oil is the dipstick in relation to the engine tempera- raise the level to within the marks indicated changed. ture (see illustration). for the appropriate temperature. Fluid should 3 Gather together all necessary tools and 6 If additional fluid is required, pour the be slowly added into the dipstick tube, using materials before beginning this procedure specified type fluid (see Recommended lubri- a funnel to prevent spills. (see illustration). Note: To avoid rounding cants and fluids at the beginning of this 6 DO NOT overfill the transaxle. Never off the corners of the drain plug, use a box- Chapter or your owner's manual) directly into allow the fluid level to go above the upper end type wrench or socket. In addition, you the reservoir using a funnel to prevent spills. hole on the dipstick - it could cause internal should have plenty of clean rags and news- DO NOT use automatic transmission fluid! transaxle damage. The best way to prevent papers handy to mop up any spills. 7 If the reservoir requires frequent topping overfilling is to add fluid a little at a time, driv- 4 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- up, all power steering hoses, hose connec- ing the vehicle and checking the level port it securely on jackstands. Warning: tions, the power steering pump and the between additions. Never work under a vehicle that is supported steering gear should be carefully examined 7 Use only transaxle fluid specified by the only by a jack! for leaks. manufacturer. This information can be found 5 If this is your first oil change on the vehi- in the Recommended lubricants and fluids cle, familiarize yourself with the locations of Section at the beginning of this Chapter or in the oil drain plug and the oil filter. Since the 8 Engine oil and filter change engine and exhaust components will be your owner's manual. 8 The condition of the fluid should also be (every 7500 miles or 6 months) warm during the actual work, it's a good idea checked along with the level. If it's a dark to figure out any potential problems before- reddish-brown color, or if it smells burned, it Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.8, 8.13 and 8.18 hand. should be changed. If you're in doubt about 1 Frequent oil changes are the most 6 Allow the engine to warm up to normal the condition of the fluid, purchase some new important preventive maintenance proce- operating temperature. If oil or tools are fluid and compare the two for color and odor. dures that can be performed by the home needed, use the warm-up time to gather
    34. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 8.8 To avoid rounding off the corners, use 8.13 Removing the oil filter the correct size box-end wrench or a (V6 engine shown) 1 socket to remove the engine oil drain plug filter will catch the oil that will drain as it is 8.3 These tools are required when unscrewed. changing the engine oil and filter 16 Compare the old filter with the new one Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in to make sure they're identical. depth, but wide to prevent spills and 17 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt capable of holding at least 5 quarts and sludge from the area where the oil filter 2 Rubber gloves - When removing the seals on the engine. Check the old filter to drain plug and filter, you will get oil on make sure the rubber gasket isn't stuck to your hands (the gloves will prevent the engine mounting surface. burns) 18 Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to 3 Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain the rubber gasket on the new oil filter (see plug is tight, and a long breaker bar is illustration). needed to loosen it 19 Install the new filter on the engine hand- 4 Socket - To be used with the breaker tight plus 1/4 turn more. Do not overtighten. bar or a ratchet (must be the correct 20 Remove all tools and materials from size to fit the drain plug - six-point under the vehicle, being careful not to spill preferred) the oil in the drain pan. Lower the vehicle. 5 Filter wrench - This is a metal band- 21 Working inside the engine compart- type wrench, which requires clearance ment, locate and remove the oil filler cap 8.18 Lubricate the oil filter gasket with from the engine valve cover (see illustra- around the filter to be effective clean engine oil before installing the filter tion 4.5). 6 Filter wrench - This type fits on the on the engine bottom of the filter and can be turned 22 Using a funnel to prevent spills, pour the with a ratchet or breaker bar (different specified type and amount of new oil required size wrenches are available for different metal particles may cling to it and would (see Specification Section in the beginning of types of filters) immediately contaminate the new oil. this Chapter) into the engine. Wait a few min- 11 Clean the area around the drain plug utes to allow the oil to drain down to the pan, opening and reinstall the plug. Tighten it to then check the level on the dipstick (see Sec- everything necessary for the job. The correct tion 4 if necessary). If the oil level is at or the torque given in this Chapter's Specifica- type of oil to buy for your application can be tions. above the first notch on the dipstick, start the found in the Recommended lubricants and 12 Next, carefully move the drain pan into engine and allow the new oil to circulate. fluids Section at the beginning of this Chapter position under the oil filter. 23 Run the engine for only about a minute, or your owner's manual. 13 Now use the filter wrench to loosen the then shut it off. Immediately look under the 7 Move all necessary tools, rags and oil filter in a counterclockwise direction (see vehicle and check for leaks at the oil pan newspapers under the vehicle. Place a drain illustration). drain plug and around the oil filter. If either pan capable of holding at least 5 quarts 14 Sometimes the oil filter is on so tight it one is leaking, tighten it with a bit more force. under the drain plug. Keep in mind that the oil cannot be loosened, or it's positioned in an 24 With the new oil circulated and the filter will initially flow from the engine with some area inaccessible with a conventional filter now completely full, wait about ten minutes force, so position the pan accordingly. wrench. Other type of tools, which fit over the for the oil to drain back down into the pan 8 Being careful not to touch any of the hot end of the filter and turned with a ratchet or then recheck the oil level on the dipstick. If exhaust components, use the breaker bar breaker bar, are available and may be better necessary, add enough oil to bring the level and socket or box-end wrench to remove the to the second notch on the dipstick. DO NOT suited for removing the filter. If the filter is drain plug (see illustration). Depending on extremely tight, position the filter wrench near overfill! how hot the oil is, you may want to wear the threaded end of the filter, close to the 25 During the first few trips after an oil gloves while unscrewing the plug the final engine. change, make it a point to check for leaks few turns. 15 Completely unscrew the old filter. Be and keep a close watch on the oil level. 9 Allow the oil to drain into the pan. It may careful, it's full of oil. Empty the old oil inside 26 The old oil drained from the engine can- be necessary to move the pan further under the filter into the drain pan. Note: To make not be reused in its present state and should the engine as the oil flow reduces to a trickle. removing a vertically installed filter a little less be disposed of properly. Oil reclamation cen- 10 After all the oil has completely drained, ters, auto repair shops and gas stations will messy, a paper or plastic cup placed over the clean the plug thoroughly with a rag. Small
    35. 1-12 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 9.6a Use a side terminal battery brush 9.6b The side terminal battery brush (available at most auto parts stores) to includes a special ring-type portion used clean up the terminal contact area to clean the battery cable sealing recess around the terminal 9.1 Tools and materials required for is produced by the battery. Keep lighted battery maintenance. Note: Items 4 through soda and rinse it with clean water. tobacco, open flames, bare light bulbs or 7 do not apply to "side" post batteries. 8 If the battery is a maintenance-type, it other possible sources of ignition away from 1 Face safety goggles - When the battery. Furthermore, the electrolyte has removable cell caps which allow you to removing corrosion with a brush, the inside the battery is sulfuric acid which is add water (use distilled water only) to the bat- acidic particles can easily fly up into highly corrosive and can burn your skin and tery when the electrolyte level gets low. your eyes cause severe injury to your eyes. Always wear 9 If you are not sure what type of battery 2 Baking soda - A solution of baking eye protection! It will also destroy clothing you have (some maintenance-types have soda and water can be used to and ruin painted surfaces. recessed cell caps that resemble mainte- neutralize corrosion nance-free batteries), one simple way to con- 3 Petroleum jelly - A layer of this on the Servicing firm your type of battery is to look for a built- battery posts will help prevent corrosion Refer to illustrations 9.1, 9.6a and 9.6b in hydrometer. Most maintenance-free bat- 4 Battery post/cable cleaner - This wire teries have built-in hydrometers that indicate 1 A routine preventive maintenance pro- brush cleaning tool will remove all the state of charge by the color displayed in gram for the battery in your vehicle is the only traces of corrosion from the battery the hydrometer window since measuring the way to ensure quick and reliable starts. But posts and cable clamps specific gravity of the electrolyte is not possi- before performing any battery maintenance, 5 Treated felt washers - Placing one of make sure that you have the proper equip- ble. Also check for cut-outs near the cell these on each post, directly under the caps - if the caps can be removed, cut-outs ment necessary to work safely around the cable clamps, will help prevent battery (see illustration). are usually provided to assist with prying off corrosion the caps. 2 Before servicing the battery, always turn 6 Puller - Sometimes the cable clamps 10 If your battery is a maintenance-type, the engine and all accessories off and dis- are very difficult to pull off the posts, remove the cell caps and check the level of connect the cable from the negative terminal even after the nut/bolt has been the electrolyte. It should be up the split-ring of the battery. completely loosened. This tool pulls the inside the battery. If the level is low, add dis- 3 The battery on these vehicles is located clamp straight up and off the post tilled water (distilled water is mineral-free, tap inside the wheel well of the left front fender. without damage water contains minerals that will shorten the 4 Remove the battery from the vehicle 7 Battery post/cable cleaner - Here is life of your battery) to bring the electrolyte up (see Chapter 5). another cleaning tool which is a slightly to the proper level. 5 Inspect the external condition of the different version of Number 4 above, but 11 Next, check the entire length of each battery. Check the battery case for cracks or it does the same thing battery cable for cracks, worn insulation and other damage. 8 Rubber gloves - Another safety item to frayed conductors. Replace the cable(s) if 6 Clean the battery terminals and cable consider when servicing the battery; necessary. connections thoroughly with a wire brush or a remember that's acid inside the battery! 12 Install the battery (see Chapter 5). terminal cleaner and a solution of warm water and baking soda (see illustrations). Wash the terminals and the top of the battery case Charging normally accept used oil. After the oil has with the same solution but make sure that the Warning: The battery produces hydrogen cooled, it should be drained into sealable solution doesn't get into the battery. When gas, which is highly explosive. Never create a containers (plastic bottles with screw-on tops cleaning the cables, terminals and battery spark, smoke or light a match around the bat- are preferred) for transport to a disposal site. top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves tery. Always charge the battery in a ventilated to prevent any solution from coming in con- area. tact with your eyes or hands. Wear old 13 The battery on these vehicles is located 9 Battery - check, maintenance clothes too - even diluted, sulfuric acid inside the wheel well of the left front fender. and charging (every 7,500 miles 14 Remove the battery from the vehicle splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them. or 6 months) Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain (see Chapter 5). water. 15 On maintenance-type batteries, remove Warning: Certain precautions must be fol- 7 Inspect the battery carrier. If it's dirty or the cell caps. Make sure the electrolyte level lowed when checking and servicing the bat- covered with corrosion, clean it with the is OK before beginning to charge the battery. tery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive, same solution of warm water and baking Cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent
    36. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-13 2 The cooling system should be checked with the engine cold. Do this before the vehi- cle is driven for the day or after it has been shut off for three or four hours and the upper radiator hose feels cool to the touch. 3 Remove the coolant system pressure cap (see illustration 4.9) and thoroughly clean the cap with water. Also clean the filler neck. All traces of corrosion and gum should be removed. Check for a soft area indicating 4 Carefully check the upper and lower the hose has deteriorated inside. radiator hoses along with the smaller diame- ter heater hoses. Inspect the entire length of each hose, replacing any that are cracked, swollen or deteriorated (see illustration). Cracks may become more apparent when a hose is squeezed (see illustration). 5 Also check that all hose connections are 10.4b Squeeze the hoses to locate cracks tight. If the vehicle came equipped with Overtightening the clamp on a or breaks that may cause leaks spring-type hose clamps which loose their 1 hardened hose will damage the hose and cause a leak. tension over time, replace them with the measure the specific gravity with a hydrome- more reliable screw-type clamps when new hoses are installed. A leak in the cooling sys- ter every hour during the last few hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometers are available tem will usually show up as white or rust-col- inexpensively from auto parts stores - follow ored deposits on the areas adjoining the leak. 6 Use compressed air, water or a soft the instructions that come with the hydrome- brush to remove bugs, leaves, and other ter. Consider the battery charged when there's no change in the specific gravity read- debris from the front of the radiator or air ing for two hours and the electrolyte in the conditioning condenser. Be careful not to damage the delicate cooling fins, or cut your- cells is outgassing (bubbling) freely. The spe- cific gravity reading from each cell should be self on them. Check each hose for swelling and 7 Finally, have the cap and system pres- very close to the others. If not, the battery oil-soaked ends. Cracks and breaks sure tested. If you do not have a pressure probably has a bad cell(s). can be located by squeezing the hose. 20 Most batteries with sealed tops have tester available, most gas stations and repair built-in hydrometers on the top that indicate shops will do this for a minimal charge. the state of charge by the color displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a bright- colored hydrometer indicates a full charge 11 Underhood hose - check and and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery replacement (every 7,500 miles or still needs charging. Check the battery manu- 6 months) facturer's instructions to be sure you know what the colors mean. Note: It may be neces- Warning: Replacement of air conditioning sary to jiggle the battery to bring the test indi- hoses must be left to a dealer service depart- 10.4a Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit cator fluid into view. ment or air conditioning shop equipped to of failing at the worst possible time - to 21 If the battery has a sealed top and does depressurize the system safely. Never remove prevent the inconvenience of a blown not have a built-in hydrometer, you can hook air conditioning components or hoses until radiator or heater hose, inspect them up a voltmeter across the battery terminals to the system has been depressurized. carefully as shown here check the charge. A fully charged battery should read approximately 12.6 volts or General higher. 1 High temperatures under the hood can spattering electrolyte. 22 Further information on the battery and cause the deterioration of the rubber and 16 On batteries with the terminals located jump starting can be found in Chapter 5 and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and on the side, install bolts (with the appropriate at the front of this manual, respectively. emission systems operation. Periodic inspec- thread size and pitch) in the terminals so the tion should be made for cracks, loose charger can be attached. clamps, material hardening and leaks. 17 Connect the battery charger leads to the 10 Cooling system - check (every 2 Information specific to the cooling sys- battery posts (positive to positive, negative to 7,500 miles or 6 months) tem hoses can be found in Section 10. negative), then plug in the charger. Make sure 3 Some hoses use clamps to secure the it is set at 12 volts if it has a selector switch. If Refer to illustrations 10.4a and 10.4b hoses to fittings. Where clamps are used, the battery charger does not have a built-in Warning: The electric cooling fan(s) on these check to be sure they haven't lost their ten- ti mer, its a good idea to use one in case you models can activate at any time the ignition sion, allowing the hose to leak. Where clamps forget - you won't over charge the battery. switch is in the ON position. Make sure the are not used, make sure the hose hasn't 18 If you're using a charger with a rate higher than two amps, check the battery reg- ignition is OFF when working in the vicinity of expanded and/or hardened where it slips the fan(s). over the fitting, allowing it to leak. ularly during charging to make sure it doesn't overheat. If you're using a trickle charger, you 1 Many major engine failures can be can safely let the battery charge overnight attributed to a faulty cooling system. If the Vacuum hoses after you've checked it regularly for the first vehicle is equipped with an automatic 4 It's quite common for vacuum hoses, couple of hours. transaxle, a transmission fluid cooler is incor- especially those in the emissions system, to 19 If the battery has removable cell caps, porated inside the radiator side tank. be color coded or identified by colored
    37. 1-14 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 12.3 Lift the cover and check the mounting nut for tightness 12.5a Depress the release lever and .. . stripes molded into the hose. Various sys- Never use vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or tems require hoses with different wall thick- water hose for fuel lines. ness, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When replacing hoses, make sure Brake hoses the new ones are made of the same material 10 The hoses used to connect the brake as the original. calipers or wheel cylinders to the metal lines 5 Often the only effective way to check a are subject to extreme working conditions. hose is to remove it completely from the vehi- They must endure high hydraulic pressures, cle. Where more than one hose is removed, heat and still maintain flexibility. The brake be sure to label the hoses and their attaching hoses typically can be inspected without points to insure proper reattachment. removing the wheels. Carefully examine each 6 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure hose for leakage, cracks, bulging, delamina- to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. tion and damage. If any damage is found, the Check the fittings for cracks and the hose hose must be replaced immediately (see where it fits over the fitting for enlargement, Chapter 9). which could cause leakage. 7 A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch Fuel and brake system metal 12.5b ... slide the wiper element down inside diameter) can be used as a stetho- scope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end lines out of the hook in the end of the arm of the hose to your ear and probe around 11 Sections of metal line are often used for vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the fuel line between the fuel tank and fuel injec- loosen the wiper arm retaining nuts, so they "hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuum tion system. Check carefully to be sure the should be checked and tightened at the leak. Warning: When probing with the vac- li ne has not been bent and crimped and that same time the wiper blades are checked (see uum hose stethoscope, be careful not to cracks have not started in the line. illustration). allow your body or the hose to come into 12 If a section of metal fuel line must be 4 Lift the wiper blade assembly away from contact with moving engine components replaced, only seamless steel tubing should be used, since copper and aluminum tubing the windshield. such as the drivebelt, cooling fan, etc. 5 Press the release lever and slide the do not have the strength necessary to with- blade assembly out of the hook in the end of Fuel hose stand normal engine operating vibration. the wiper arm (see illustrations). Carefully 13 Check the metal brake lines where they Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, rest the wiper arm on the windshield. enter the master cylinder and brake propor- so take extra precautions when you work on 6 The rubber element is secured to the tioning or ABS unit (if equipped) for cracks in any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or blade assembly at one end of the blade ele- the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the ment channel. Compress the locking feature fluid leakage calls for an immediate thorough work area, and don't work in a garage where on the element so it clears the tangs on the inspection of the brake system. a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water blade assembly channel claw and then slide heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is the element out of the frame. present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. it off immediately with soap and water. When 12 Windshield wiper blade - Make sure the rubber element and blade you perform any kind of work on the fuel sys- inspection and replacement assembly are securely attached. tem, wear safety glasses and have a Class B (every 7,500 miles or 6 months) type fire extinguisher on hand. Before work- ing on any part of the fuel system, relieve the Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.5a and 12.5b 13 Tire rotation (every 7,500 miles or fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4). 1 The windshield wiper blade elements 6 months) 8 Check all rubber fuel hoses for damage should be checked periodically for cracks and deterioration. Check especially for and deterioration. Refer to illustration 13.2 cracks in areas where the hose bends and 2 Road film can build up on the wiper just before clamping points, such as where a 1 The tires should be rotated at the speci- blades and affect their efficiency, so they hose attaches to the fuel injection system. fied intervals and whenever uneven wear is should be washed regularly with a mild deter- 9 High quality fuel line, specifically noticed. Since the vehicle will be raised and gent solution. designed for fuel injection systems, should the tires removed, this is a good time to 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can be used for fuel line replacement. Warning: check the brakes also (see Section 18).
    38. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-15 LF RF LR RR RADIAL TIRE ROTATION HAYNES 14.5 Checking the 1-AJ steering rack tie-rod 14.10 Checking the wheel bearing freeplay boot for damage 1 13.2 The recommended tire rotation pattern for these models grinding noise or roughness in the bearings. squeaks and unusual noises from the sus- Don't mistake light brake drag for a wheel pension components. Check the shock bearing problem. Note: The wheel bearings, 2 Radial tires must be rotated in a specific absorbers for fluid leakage. front and rear, are integral with the wheel pattern (see illustration). 4 Raise the vehicle and support it securely hubs. They are "lubricated for life" and are not 3 See the information in Jacking and tow- on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a serviceable. If the hub/wheel bearing assem- ing at the front of this manual for the proper vehicle that is supported only by a jack! bly has excessive play or they feel rough or procedures to follow when raising the vehicle 5 Working under the vehicle, check for noisy, replace them (see Chapter 10). and changing a tire; however, if the brakes loose bolts, cracked, broken or disconnected are to be checked, don't apply the parking parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all brake as stated. Make sure the tires are suspension and steering components 15 Exhaust system - check (every blocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling. (shocks, springs, control arms, etc.). Look for 7,500 or 6 months) Note: Prior to raising the vehicle, loosen all grease or fluid leaking from around the steer- lug nuts a quarter turn. ing gear input shaft and tie-rod boots (see Refer to illustration 15.3 4 Preferably, the entire vehicle should be illustration). Check the power steering raised at the same time. This can be done on hoses, cooler and connections for leaks. Note: Perform the following procedure with a hoist or by jacking up each corner of the 6 Have an assistant turn the steering the engine cold. vehicle and lowering it onto jackstands. 1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely wheel from side-to-side and check the steer- Always use jackstands and make sure the ing components for free movement, chafing on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a vehicle is safely supported. Warning: Never ,and binding. If the wheels don't respond vehicle that is supported only by a jack! work under a vehicle that is supported only by 2 With the engine cold (at least three closely to the movement of the steering a jack! wheel, determine where the slack is located. hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from its 5 After the tire rotation, check and adjust 7 Check the tie-rod ends and ball joints the tire pressures as necessary and tighten starting point at the engine to the end of the for wear. They are designed not to have any the wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in this free play. Using a pry bar or other method, tailpipe. 3 Check the pipes and connections for Chapter's Specifications. attempt to create movement (up/down and signs of leakage and/or corrosion indicating a side-to-side) in the tie-rod ends and ball joints. If any movement is seen or felt, a worn potential failure. Make sure that all brackets balljoint is indicated. To service the tie-rod and hangers are in good condition and tight 14 Steering and suspension - check ends and ball joints see Chapter 10. (see illustration). (every 7,500 miles or 6 months) 8 Next, have an assistant grasp the tire at the sides and pivot the tire in an in-and-out Refer to illustrations 14.5 and 14.10 motion (left-to-right) while you are touching 1 Whenever the vehicle is raised for ser- the tie-rod end. If any looseness is felt, sus- vice it is a good idea to visually check the pect a loose tie-rod stud nut, worn out tie-rod suspension and steering components for stud or a widened hole in the steering wear and damage. knuckle boss. If the latter problem exists, the 2 Indications of wear and damage include steering knuckle should be renewed along excessive play in the steering wheel before with the tie-rod (see Chapter 10). the front wheels react, excessive lean around 9 Check the rear suspension ball joints for corners, body movement over rough roads or wear as described in Step 7. Inspect the trail- binding at some point as the steering wheel is ing arms and lateral links for damage, loose- turned. ness or worn bushings. If replacement is nec- 3 Before the vehicle is raised for inspec- essary, see Chapter 10. tion, test the shock absorbers by pushing 10 Check each wheel bearing for excessive down to rock the vehicle at each corner. If it free play by grasping the wheel at the top and does not come back to a level position within bottom, then pivot the wheel on the spindle one or two bounces, the shocks are worn 15.3 Check the exhaust system (see illustration). The free play should be and should be replaced (see Chapter 10). As connections, clamps, mounting bolts, minimal, zero (no play) to approximately 1/16 you perform this procedure, check for brackets and hangers for damage (arrows) inch. Next, spin the wheel and listen for a
    39. 1-16 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 18.5 Measure the thickness of the brake pad from the metal backing to the brake 16.4 Pry the rubber plug from the oil fill 17.3 Check each driveaxle inner and disc - note the inner pad generally wears hole on the side of the transaxle housing outer boot for cracks and/or faster than the outer pad so measure both leaking grease of them 4 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion and open does not run out, insert your finger to feel the 18 Brake system - check (every seams which may allow exhaust gases to lubricant level. It should be within 3/16 of the enter the passenger compartment. Seal all bottom of the plug hole. 15,000 miles or 12 months) body openings with silicone sealant or body 5 If the transaxle requires additional lubri- putty. cant, use a funnel with a rubber tube or a Warning: Dust created by the brake system 5 Rattles and other noises can often be syringe to pour or squeeze the recommended may contain asbestos, which is harmful to traced to the exhaust system, especially the lubricant into the plug hole to restore the your health. Never blow it out with com- mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes, level. If you overfill it, let the fluid run out until pressed air and don't inhale any of it. An muffler and catalytic converter. If the compo- it is level with the plug hole. Caution: Use approved filtering mask should be worn when nents can come into contact with the body, only the specified transaxle lubricant - see working on brakes. Do not, under any circum- secure the exhaust system with new mounts. Recommended lubricants and fluids at the stances, use petroleum-based solvents to 6 This is also an ideal time to check the beginning of this Chapter or your owner's clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner running condition of the engine by inspecting manual. Note: Most auto parts stores sell only! the very end of the tailpipe. The exhaust pumps that screw into the oil containers 1 The brakes should be inspected every deposits here are an indication of the which make this job much easier and less ti me the wheels are removed or whenever a engine's state-of-tune. If the pipe is black messy. defect is suspected. Indications of a potential and sooty or coated with white deposits, the 6 Push the plug securely back into the brake system problem include the vehicle engine may be in need of a tune-up (including transaxle and lower the vehicle. Test drive it pulling to one side when the brake pedal is a thorough fuel injection system inspection). and check for leaks. depressed, noises coming from the brakes when they are applied, excessive brake pedal travel, a pulsating pedal and leakage of fluid, 16 Manual transaxle - lubricant level usually seen on the inside of the tire or wheel. 17 Driveaxle boot - check (every check (every 7500 miles or 6 Note: It is normal for a vehicle equipped with 7,500 miles or 6 months) an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) to exhibit months) brake pedal pulsation's during severe braking Refer to illustration 17.3 conditions. Refer to illustration 16.4 1 If the driveaxle boots are damaged, let- 1 Manual transaxles do not have a fluid ting grease out and water in, serious not to Disc brakes dipstick. The lubricant level is checked by mention costly damage can occur to the CV Refer to illustrations 18.5 removing a rubber plug from the side of the joints. The boots should be inspected very 2 Disc brakes can be visually checked transaxle case. The lubricant level should be carefully at the recommended intervals or without removing any parts except the checked with the engine cold and the vehicle anytime the vehicle is raised. wheels. Remove the hub caps (if applicable) level. 2 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- and loosen the front wheel lug nuts a quarter 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely port it securely on jackstands. Warning: turn each. on jackstands in a level position. Warning: Never work under a vehicle that is supported 3 Raise the front of the vehicle and place it Never work under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack! securely on jackstands. Warning: Never work only by a jack! 3 Place the transaxle in Neutral. While under a vehicle that is supported only by a 3 Locate the rubber plug on the left rotating the wheels, inspect the four driveaxle jack! (driver's) side of the transaxle differential near boots (two on each driveaxle) very carefully 4 Remove the front wheels. Now visible is the driveaxle shaft. Use a rag to clean it and for cracks, tears, holes, deteriorated rubber the disc brake caliper which contains the the surrounding area. It may be necessary to and loose or missing clamps (see illustra- pads. There is an outer brake pad and an remove the left inner fenderwell cover for tion). If the boots are dirty, wipe them clean inner pad. Both must be checked for wear. access to the plug. Place a drain pan under before beginning the inspection. Note: Usually the inner pad wears faster than the transaxle. 4 If damage or deterioration is evident, the outer pad. 4 Using pliers or a large screwdriver, replace the boots and check the CV joints for 5 Measure the pad thickness at each end remove the plug (see illustration). If oil damage (see Chapter 8). of the caliper (see illustration) and through begins to run out, let it find its own level (pre- 5 Place the transaxle in Park or in-gear as the inspection hole in the caliper body. Com- suming the vehicle is relatively level). If oil applicable and lower the vehicle. pare the measurement with the limit given in
    40. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-17 18.14 If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the lining thickness from the outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown here: if the lining is riveted to the shoe, measure from the lining 18.17 Pry the boot away from the cylinder and check outer surface to the rivet head for fluid leakage 1 this Chapter's Specifications, if any brake this also necessitates replacement (see heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is pad thickness is less than specified, then all Chapter 9). present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse brake pads must be replaced (see Chapter 9). 16 Make sure all the brake assembly it off immediately with soap and water. When 6 If you're in doubt as to the exact pad springs are connected and in good condition. you perform any kind of work on the fuel sys- thickness or quality, remove them for mea- 17 Check the brake wheel cylinder for signs tem, wear safety glasses and have a Class B surement and further inspection (see Chap- of fluid leakage. Carefully pry back the rubber type fire extinguisher on hand. ter 9). dust boots on the wheel cylinder (see illus- 1 If the smell of gasoline is noticed while 7 Before installing the wheels, check the tration). Any leakage here is an indication driving, or after the vehicle has been parked brake hoses for leakage and damage (cracks, that the wheel cylinders must be overhauled in the sun, the fuel system and evaporative leaks, chafed areas, etc.). Replace the hoses immediately (see Chapter 9). Also, check all emissions system (see Section 26) should be or fittings as necessary (see Chapter 9). hoses and connections for signs of leakage. thoroughly inspected immediately. 8 Check the disc for score marks, wear 18 Wipe the inside of the drum with a clean 2 The fuel system is under pressure even and burned spots. If any of these conditions rag and denatured alcohol or brake cleaner. when the engine is off. Consequently, the fuel exist, the disc should be removed for servic- Again, be careful not to breathe the danger- system must be depressurized before servic- ing or replacement (see Chapter 9). ous asbestos dust. ing the system (see Chapter 4). Even after 9 Install the front wheels, lower the vehicle 19 Inspect the inside of the drum for depressurization, if any fuel lines are discon- and tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque cracks, score marks, deep scratches and nected for servicing, be prepared to catch given in this Chapter's Specifications. "hard spots" which will appear as small dis- some fuel as it spills out. Plug all discon- colored areas. If imperfections cannot be nected fuel lines immediately to prevent the Drum brakes removed with fine emery cloth, the drum tank from emptying itself. Refer to illustrations 18.14 and 18.17 must be taken to an automotive machine 3 Remove the gas tank filler cap and shop for resurfacing. check for damage, corrosion and a proper 10 Remove the hub caps (if applicable) and loosen the wheel lug nuts a quarter turn each. 20 Repeat the procedure for the remaining sealing imprint on the gasket. Replace the 11 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support wheel. cap with a new one if necessary. 21 Install the wheels, lower the vehicle and 4 Raise the vehicle and support it securely it securely on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a vehicle that is supported only by tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque given on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a a jack! Block the front wheels to prevent the in this Chapter's Specifications. vehicle that is supported only by a jack! 5 Inspect the gas tank and filler neck for vehicle from rolling, however, do not apply the parking brake or it will lock the drums in Parking brake punctures, cracks and other damage. The 22 The easiest, and perhaps most obvious, hose connection between the filler neck and place. Remove the rear wheels. method of periodically checking the operation the tank is especially critical (see illustra- 12 Remove the brake drum as described in Chapter 9. of the parking brake assembly is to park the 13 With the drum removed, carefully clean vehicle on a steep hill with the parking brake off any accumulations of dirt and dust using set and the transmission in Neutral. If the brake system cleaner. Warning: DO NOT parking brake cannot prevent the vehicle from blow the dust out with compressed air and rolling, it needs adjustment (see Chapter 9). don't inhale any of it (it may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health). 19 Fuel system hoses and 14 Measure the thickness of the lining material on both leading and trailing brake connections - check (every shoes (see illustration). Compare the mea- 15,000 miles or 12 months) surement with the limit given in this Chapter's Specifications, if any brake shoe thickness is Refer to illustration 19.5 less than specified, then all brake shoes must Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, be replaced (see Chapter 9). so take extra precautions when you work on 15 Inspect the brake shoes for uneven wear any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or patterns, cracks, glazing and delamination allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the and replace if necessary. If the shoes have work area, and don't work in a garage where been saturated with brake fluid, oil or grease, 19.5 Fuel filler neck-to-tank hose (arrow) a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water
    41. 1-18 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Cracks Running Across "V" Portions of Belt UNACCEPTABLE 20.2 A drivebelt routing diagram is mounted under the hood Cracks Running Parallel to "V" Portions of Belt BELT DEFLECTION 20.3 Here are some of the more common problems associated with drivebelts (check the belts very carefully to prevent an untimely breakdown) MAKE SURE RULER IS LOCK NUT PERPENDICULAR TO STRAIGHT EDGE 20.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a straightedge and ruler tion). Sometimes the filler neck hose will leak due to loose clamps or deteriorated rubber; problems a home mechanic can usually rec- SUPPORT BRACKET tify. 6 Carefully inspect all rubber hoses and metal lines leading to-and-from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated 20.5 Loosen the alternator hoses, crimped lines and damage of any pivot bolt and locking nut and kind. Follow the lines up to the front of the turn the adjusting bolt to vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. achieve the proper belt tension Repair or replace damaged sections as nec- (four-cylinder engines) essary (see Chapter 4). tion of the vehicle and its components. Due separation of the adhesive rubber on both 20 Drivebelt - check, adjustment sides of the core, core separation from the to their function and material makeup, the and replacement (every 15,000 belts are prone to failure after a period of time belt side, a severed core, separation of the miles or 12 months) and should be inspected and adjusted peri- ribs from the adhesive rubber, cracking or odically to prevent major damage. separation of the ribs, and torn or worn ribs Warning: The electric cooling fan(s) on these 2 The number of belts used depends on or cracks in the inner ridges of the ribs (see models can activate at any time the ignition the engine accessories. All engines equipped illustration). Also check for fraying and glaz- switch is in the ON position. Make sure the with power steering and/or air conditioning ing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance. ignition is OFF when working in the vicinity of are equipped with two drivebelts (see illus- Both sides of the belt should be inspected, the fan(s). tration). One drivebelt drives the alternator which means you will have to twist the belt to and air conditioning compressor while the check the underside. Use your fingers to feel Check other belt drives the power steering pump. the belt where you can't see it. If any of the Refer to illustrations 20.2, 20.3 and 20.4 3 With the engine off, open the hood and above conditions are evident, replace the The drivebelts located at the front of the locate the drivebelts at the front of the belt(s). Note: On V6 engines, a better drive- 1 engine, play an important role in the opera - engine. Using a flashlight, check each belt for belt inspection can be made by removing the
    42. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-19 Power steering drivebelt Refer to illustrations 20.12a and 20.12b 10 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- port it securely on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack! 11 Remove the accessory drivebelt splash shield (see illustration 20.8). 12 Working under the vehicle, loosen the power steering pump pivot and locking bolts (front and rear) (see illustrations). The power steering pump should now be free to move. 13 The power steering pump is equipped with a square hole designed to accept a 1/2- inch square drive breaker bar to assist with adjusting the drivebelt tension. 14 Position the power steering pump as required to achieve the correct drivebelt ten- sion (see Step 4). Tighten the pivot and lock- 20.12a Power steering pump pivot bolt 20.12b Power steering rear locking bolt ing bolts securely. (upper arrow) and front locking bolt (lower (arrow) as viewed from under the vehicle 15 Install the accessory drivebelt splash arrow) as viewed from under the vehicle (V6 engine shown) shield and lower the vehicle. (V6 engine shown) loosened slightly to move the component. After the bolt and nut have been loos- Replacement accessory drivebelt splash shield located 6 inside the right hand fender well (see Adjust- ened, turn the adjuster bolt as necessary to Refer to illustration 20.18 ment Section below for removal procedures). move the component away from the engine 16 To replace a drivebelt, follow the above (to tighten the belt) or toward the engine (to procedures for drivebelt adjustment except 4 The tension of each belt is checked by loosen the belt) to achieve the correct drive- loosen the adjustment enough to allow you to pushing on it at a distance halfway between belt tension (see Step 4). Tighten the pivot slip the drivebelt off the crankshaft pulley and the pulleys. Apply about 10 pounds of force bolt and locking nut securely. remove it. If you are replacing the alternator with your thumb and see how much the belt and A/C compressor drivebelt, you must moves down (deflects). Measure the deflec- V6 engine remove the power steering drivebelt first tion with a ruler (see illustration). The belt Refer to illustrations 20.8 and 20.9 because of the way they are arranged on the should deflect about 1/4-inch if the distance 7 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- crankshaft pulley. Because both drivebelts between pulleys is between 7 and 11 inches port it securely on jackstands. Remove the tend to wear out equally, its a good idea to and around 1/2-inch if the distance is be- right front wheel. Warning: Never work under replace both belts at the same time. As they t ween 12 and 16 inches. a vehicle that is only supported by a jack! are removed, identify each belt as to it's 8 Remove the screw and push-in fasten- appropriate drive function (PS or ALT-A/C) so Adjustment ers securing the accessory drivebelt splash the replacement belts can be installed in their Alternator and air conditioning shield to the fender and frame rail, respec- proper positions. compressor drivebelt tively (see illustration). 17 Take the old drivebelts with you when 9 Loosen the idler pulley lock bolt then you go to the auto parts store in order to Four-cylinder engines turn the adjuster bolt (see illustration) as make a direct comparison for length, width Refer to illustration 20.5 required to achieve the correct drivebelt ten- and design. 5 Loosen the alternator locking nut and sion (see Step 4). Tighten the idler pulley lock 18 Install the new drivebelts. Make sure pivot bolt (see illustration). Both must be bolt securely after adjustment. they are routed correctly and properly seated
    43. 1-20 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance WRONG WRONG 20.18 When installing the V-ribbed drivebelt, make sure it is centered on each pulley - it must not overlap either edge in each pulley (see illustration). 21.5 Greasing the front suspension upper 21.1 Materials required for chassis and 19 Adjust the respective drivebelts as control arm ball joint body lubrication described earlier in this Section. After the drivebelts have been in service for approxi- 1 Engine oil - Light engine oil in a can like 12 Some components should not be lubri- mately ten (10) hours, check the drivebelt this can be used for door and hood cated for the following reasons. Some are tension again and adjust if necessary as new hinges permanently lubricated, some lubricants will drivebelts tend to stretch after initial installa- 2 Graphite spray - Used to lubricate lock cause component failure or the lubricants will tion. cylinders be detrimental to the components operating 3 Grease - Grease, in a variety of types characteristics. Do not lubricate the follow- and weights, is available for use in a ing: air pump, generator bearings, drivebelts, Chassis lubrication (every 30,000 grease gun. Check the Specifications drivebelt idler pulley, front wheel bearings, 21 for your requirements miles or 24 months) rubber bushings, starter motor bearings, sus- 4 Grease gun - A common grease gun, pension strut bearings, throttle control cable, shown here with a detachable hose and throttle linkage ball bearings and water pump Refer to illustrations 21.1 and 21.5 nozzle, is needed for chassis lubrication. bearings. 1 A grease gun and a cartridge filled with After use, clean it thoroughly the proper grease (see Recommended lubri- cants and fluids), graphite spray and an oil striker. Have an assistant pull the hood can filled with engine oil will be required to 22 Air filter - replacement (every release lever from inside the vehicle as you lubricate the chassis components (see illus- 30,000 miles or 24 months) lubricate the cable at the latch. tration). 9 Lubricate all the hinges (door, hood, 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely trunk, etc.) with the recommended lubricant Refer to illustrations 22.2 and 22.3 on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a (see Recommended lubricants and fluids at 1 The air filter element is located in a vehicle that is supported only by a jack! the beginning of this Chapter) to keep them in housing on the driver's side of the engine 3 Before beginning, force a little grease proper working order. compartment. out of the nozzle to remove any dirt from the 10 The key lock cylinders can be lubricated 2 Unclip the 2 latches securing the top end of the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with a with spray-type graphite or silicone lubricant cover of the air cleaner housing (see illustra- rag. which is available at auto parts stores. tion). Lift the latching side of the cover and 4 Armed with the grease gun and plenty of 11 Lubricate the door weather-stripping disengage it from the locking lugs on the clean rags, begin lubricating the compo- with silicone spray. This will reduce chafing opposite side. nents. Note: The tie-rod ends and front sus- and retard wear. 3 Position the cover out of the way and pension lower control arm ball joints are not serviceable. 5 Wipe the grease fitting clean and push the nozzle firmly over it. Operate the lever on the grease gun to force grease into the fitting until it oozes out of the joint between the two components (see illustration). If grease escapes around the grease gun nozzle, the fitting is clogged or the nozzle is not com- pletely seated on the fitting. Reattach the gun nozzle to the fitting and try again. If neces- sary, replace the fitting with a new one. 6 Lubricate the sliding contact and pivot points of the parking brake cable along with the cable guides and levers. This can be done by smearing some of the chassis grease onto the cable and related parts with your fingers. Be careful of frayed wires! 22.2 To remove the air cleaner top cover, 7 Lower the vehicle to the ground. release the 2 latches (arrows), lift the 22.3 With the cover positioned out of the 8 Open the hood and smear a little chas- cover and disengage it from the locking way, remove the air filter element from sis grease on the hood latch mechanism and lugs on the opposite side the housing
    44. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-21 23.4 To drain the transaxle fluid, first loosen the bolts, then remove all the bolts except for 2 on the high side and 2 on the low side - after breaking the pan seal, remove the 2 bolts on the lower 23.5a Remove the transaxle fluid filter .. . side and let the pan hang down to drain further remove the air filter element (see illustra- further. After the pan has finished draining, tion). remove the remaining bolts and detach the 4 Inspect the inside of the air cleaner pan. housing, top and bottom, for dirt, debris or 5 Remove the filter and 0-ring seal (see damage. If necessary, clean the inside of the illustrations). housing with a rag or shop vacuum as appli- 6 Carefully remove all traces of old sealant cable. If the air cleaner housing is damaged from the pan, transaxle body (be careful not and requires replacement, refer to Chapter 4. to nick or gouge the sealing surfaces) and the 5 Place the new filter element in position bolts. (metal screen up), install the top cover and 7 Clean the pan and the magnet located secure it with the retaining latches. inside the pan with a clean, lint-free cloth moistened with solvent. Don't forget to place the magnet back in its proper location at the 23 Automatic transaxle - fluid and bottom of the pan. 8 Fit the new filter, with a new 0-ring filter change (every 30,000 miles installed, in place on the transaxle valve or 24 months) body. 9 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of Mopar RTV Refer to illustrations 23.4, 23.5a and 23.5b sealant (or equivalent) to the pan sealing sur- 23.5b ... and 0-ring seal 1 The automatic transaxle fluid and filter face (stay on the inboard side of the bolt should be changed and the magnet cleaned holes) and to the underside of each bolt 14 Drive the vehicle until it reaches normal at the recommended intervals. head. operating temperature. Recheck the fluid 2 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- 10 Position the pan on the transaxle and level and add as necessary until the fluid port it securely on jackstands. Warning: install the bolts. Tighten them to the torque reaches the HOT range on the dipstick (see Never work under a vehicle that is supported listed in this Chapter's Specifications follow- Section 6). only by a jack! Extract the two push-in fasten- ing a criss-cross pattern. Work up to the final 15 The old oil cannot be reused in its pre- ers and remove the transaxle splash shield. torque in three or four steps. Allow the RTV sent state and should be disposed of prop- 3 Since the transaxle drain pan does not sealant time to dry according to the manufac- erly. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair have a drain plug, this procedure can get a turer's instructions. shops and gas stations will normally accept bit messy, so you should have plenty of clean 11 Install the transaxle splash shield and used oil. It should be placed into sealable rags and newspapers handy to mop up any secure it with the two push-in fasteners. containers (plastic bottles with screw-on tops spills that may occur. If the drain pan you're 12 Lower the vehicle and add four quarts of are preferred) for transport to a disposal site. using isn't very large in diameter, place it on a the specified fluid (see Recommended lubri- piece of plastic such as a trash bag to catch cants and fluids at the beginning of this any splashing oil. Chapter) to the transaxle (see Section 6 if 4 Position a container capable of holding necessary). Start the engine and allow it to 24 Manual transaxle - lubricant at least 5 quarts under the transaxle oil pan. idle for at least two minutes while checking change (every 30,000 or 24 Loosen only the pan bolts. Remove the bolts for leakage around the pan. months) on each side of the pan leaving two bolts 13 With the engine running and the brakes loosely in place on the upper and lower sides applied, move the shift lever through each of Refer to illustrations 24.2a and 24.2b of the pan (see illustration). Tap the corners the gear positions and ending in Park. Check Raise the vehicle and support it securely 1 of the pan using a soft-faced mallet to break the fluid level on the dipstick. The level on jackstands in a level position. Warning: the seal and allow the fluid to drain into the should be just up to the ADD mark. If neces- Never work under a vehicle that is supported container (the remaining bolts will prevent the sary, add more fluid (a little at a time) until the only by a jack! pan from completely separating from the level is just at the ADD mark (be careful not to Using a box-end wrench or socket to 2 transaxle). Remove the 2 bolts from the lower overfill it). prevent rounding off the plug wrenching flats, side of the pan and let it hang down to drain
    45. 1-22 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 24.2a To avoid rounding off the corners, 24.2b . . . and drain the fluid 25.5 The drain fitting (arrow) is located at use the correct size box-end wrench or a the bottom of the radiator on the right socket to remove the manual transaxle oil hand side (radiator removed for clarity) drain plug .. . impair the performance of the cooling system and cause engine damage. When the cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator remove the drain plug. Drain the fluid into a cap should be checked and replaced, if nec- suitable container capable of holding at least essary. 4 quarts (see illustrations). 3 After the fluid has completely drained, Draining install the drain plug and tighten it to the torque given in this Chapter's Specifications. Refer to illustration 25.5 4 Fill the transaxle with the recommended 2 At the same time the cooling system is lubricant (see Section 16). serviced, all hoses and the radiator (pressure) 5 The old oil cannot be reused in its pre- cap should be inspected, tested and sent state and should be disposed of prop- replaced if faulty (see Section 10). erly. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair 3 With the engine cold, remove the pres- shops and gas stations will normally accept sure cap and set the heater control to maxi- used oil. It should be placed into sealable mum heat. containers (plastic bottles with screw-on tops 4 Move a large container capable of hold- are preferred) for transport to a disposal site. ing at least 10 quarts under the radiator drain fitting to catch the coolant mixture as it's drained. 25.11 To remove the coolant reservoir, 5 Open the drain fitting located at the bot- disconnect the hose (A) and remove the 2 25 Cooling system - servicing mounting bolts (arrows) tom of the radiator (see illustration). On (draining, flushing and refilling) vehicles equipped with the V6 engine, the (every 30,000 miles or 24 months) drain fitting cannot be reached by hand. To open the drain fitting, use a universal joint coolant mixture there should be no need to Warning 1: Do not allow coolant (antifreeze) and socket attached to a long extension. employ chemical cleaners or descalers. to come in contact with your skin or painted Allow the coolant to completely drain out. 11 Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose, surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated remove the reservoir from the vehicle and areas immediately with plenty of water. Do Flushing flush it with clean water (see illustration). not store new coolant or leave old coolant Refer to illustration 25.11 Inspect it for damage and replace if neces- lying around where it's accessible to children sary. 6 Remove the thermostat housing and the or pets - they're attracted by its sweet smell. thermostat (see Chapter 3). Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant Refilling 7 Disconnect the lower hose from the can be fatal! Wipe up garage floor and drip radiator (see Chapter 3 if necessary). 12 Install the thermostat, the thermostat pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze con- housing and connect the radiator hose (see 8 Place a garden hose in the upper radia- tainers covered and repair cooling system Chapter 3). tor hose (to flush radiator) and then the ther- leaks as soon as they're noticed. Check with 13 Connect the lower radiator hose (see mostat opening in the engine block (to flush local authorities about the disposal of used Chapter 3 if necessary). engine block and heater core). Flush the sys- antifreeze. Many communities have collection tem until the water runs clear out of the radia- 14 Install the coolant reservoir, reconnect centers which will see that antifreeze is dis- the hose and close the radiator drain fitting. tor and lower radiator hose respectively. posed of properly. 15 Add the correct mixture of high-quality 9 In severe cases of contamination or Warning 2: The electric cooling fan(s) on antifreeze/coolant and water in the ratio clogging of the radiator, remove it (see Chap- these models can activate at any time the specified on the antifreeze container or in this ter 3) and reverse flush it. This involves insert- ignition switch is in the ON position. Make Chapter's Specifications through the filler ing the hose in the bottom radiator outlet to sure the ignition is OFF when working in the neck until it reaches the pressure cap seat. allow the clean water to run against the nor- vicinity of the fan(s). 16 Add the same coolant mixture to the mal flow, draining out through the top. A radi- 1 Periodically, the cooling system should reservoir until it the level is between the FULL ator repair shop should be consulted if further be drained, flushed and refilled to replenish and ADD marks. cleaning or repair is necessary. the coolant (antifreeze) mixture and prevent 10 When the coolant is regularly drained 17 Run the engine until normal operating formation of rust and corrosion, which can temperature is reached and with the engine and the system refilled with the correct
    46. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-23 27.2 Tools required for changing spark plugs 1 Spark plug socket - This will have special padding inside to protect the 27.5a Spark plug manufacturers 27.5b To change the gap, bend the side 1 spark plug's porcelain insulator recommend using a wire-type gauge electrode only, as indicated by the arrows, 2 Torque wrench - Although not when checking the gap - if the wire does and be very careful not to crack or chip mandatory, using this tool is the best not slide between the electrodes with a the porcelain insulator surrounding the way to ensure the plugs are tightened slight drag, adjustment is required center electrode properly 3 Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit the spark plug socket 3 The most common symptom of a fault in plugs beforehand, adjust them to the proper 4 Extension - Depending on model and the evaporative emissions system is a strong gap and then replace each plug one at a accessories, you may need special fuel odor in the engine compartment or raw ti me. When buying the new spark plugs, be extensions and universal joints to reach fuel leaking from the canister. These indica- sure to obtain the correct plug for your spe- one or more of the plugs tions are usually more prevalent in hot tem- cific engine. This information can be found in 5 Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for peratures. All systems except for those the Specification Section at the front of this checking the gap comes in a variety of installed on 1995 models are pressurized by Chapter, in your owner's manual or on the styles. Make sure the gap for your a Leak Detection Pump (LDP). If normal sys- Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) engine is included tem pressure cannot be achieved by the label located under the hood. If differences LDP, which indicates a leak, the PCM will exist between the sources, purchase the store the appropriate fault code and illumi- spark plug type specified on the VECI label idling, add coolant up to the correct level. nate the CHECK ENGINE light on the instru- as it was printed for your specific engine. Install the pressure cap. 4 Allow the engine to cool completely ment panel. The most common cause of sys- 18 Always refill the system with the speci- tem pressure loss is a loose or poor sealing before attempting to remove any of the fied mixture of coolant and water. See Chap- gas cap. plugs. During this cooling off ti me, each of ter 3 for more information on antifreeze mix- the new spark plugs can be inspected for 4 For more information and replacement tures. procedures see Chapter 6. defects and the gaps can be checked. 19 Keep a close watch on the coolant level 5 The gap is checked by inserting the and the various cooling system hoses during proper thickness gauge between the elec- the first few miles of driving and check for trodes at the tip of the plug (see illustration). any coolant leaks. Tighten the hose clamps 27 Spark plugs - check and The gap between the electrodes should be as and add more coolant mixture as necessary. replacement (see Maintenance specified on the VECI label in the engine schedule for intervals) compartment or as listed in this Chapter's Specifications. The wire should touch each of 26 Evaporative emissions control Refer to illustrations 27.2, 27.5a and 27.5b the electrodes. If the gap is incorrect, use the system - check (every 30,000 adjuster on the thickness , gauge body to miles or 24 months) All models bend the curved side electrode slightly until the proper gap is obtained (see illustration). 1 The spark plugs are located in the cylin- 1 The function of the evaporative emis- Also, at this time check for cracks in the der head. sions control system is to prevent fuel vapors 2 In most cases the tools necessary for spark plug body (if any are found, the plug from escaping the fuel system and being must not be used). If the side electrode is not spark plug replacement include a spark plug released into the atmosphere. Vapors from socket which fits onto a ratchet (this special exactly over the center one, use the adjuster the fuel tank are temporarily stored in a char- socket is padded inside to protect the porce- to align the two. coal canister. The Powertrain Control Module 6 Cover the fender to prevent damage to lain insulators on the new plugs and hold (PCM) monitors the system and allows the them in place), various extensions and a the paint, fender covers are available from vapors to be drawn into the intake manifold auto parts stores but an old blanket will work feeler gauge to check and adjust the spark when the engine reaches normal operating just fine. plug gap (see illustration). A special plug temperature. wire removal tool is available for separating 2 The charcoal canister on 1995 through the wire boot from the spark plug, but it isn't Four-cylinder engines 1997 models is mounted to a bracket behind absolutely necessary. Since these engines Refer to illustrations 27.7a and 27.7b the right front bumper fascia adjacent to the are equipped with an aluminum cylinder 7 Note: Due to the short length of the windshield washer reservoir. On 1998 mod- head(s), a torque wrench should be used spark plug wire, always disconnect the spark els, it's located on top of the fuel tank. The when tightening the spark plugs. plug wire from the ignition coil pack first. Dis- canisters are maintenance-free and should 3 The best approach when replacing the connect the spark plug wire from any retain- last the life of the vehicle. spark plugs is to purchase the new spark ing clips. With the engine cool, disconnect
    47. 1-24 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 27.7a Pull on the spark plug wire boot and twist it back-and-forth 27.7b Use a twisting motion to free the boot and then pull it from while pulling it from the ignition coil pack the valve cover 27.15 A length of 3/8-inch ID rubber hose will save time and prevent damaged threads when installing the spark plugs 27.12 Use a ratchet and extension to 27.14 Apply a thin coat of anti-seize 15 It's often difficult to insert spark plugs remove the spark plugs compound to the spark plug threads - DO NOT get any on the electrodes! into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a piece of 3/8- one of the spark plug wires from the ignition inch ID rubber hose over the end of the spark coil pack (see illustration). Pull only on the All models plug (see illustration). The flexible hose acts boot at the end of the wire; don't pull on the Refer to illustrations 27.12, 27.14 and 27.15 as a universal joint to help align the plug with wire. Using a twisting motion, loosen the 11 If compressed air is available, use it to the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross- boot/wire at the valve cover, then withdraw blow any dirt or foreign material away from thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, the boot/wire from the valve cover (see illus- the spark plug area. Warning: Use proper preventing thread damage. Install the spark tration). eye protection! A common bicycle pump will plug and tighten it to the torque listed in this also work. The idea here is to eliminate the Chapter's Specifications. V6 engine possibility of material falling into the cylinder 16 Attach the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting motion on the Note: On V6 models, the manufacturer rec- through the spark plug hole as the spark plug ommends replacing the spark plugs, spark is removed. boot until it is firmly seated on the end of the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor at the 12 Place the spark plug socket over the spark plug. On four-cylinder engines, attach same time. Refer to Section 29 for spark plug plug and remove it from the engine by turning the other end to the ignition coil pack. Attach wire, distributor cap and rotor replacement. it in a counterclockwise direction (see illus- the spark plug wire to any retaining clips to 8 Remove the upper intake manifold (see tration). secure the wires in their proper location on Chapter 2B). 13 Compare the spark plug with the chart the valve cover. 9 To prevent dirt or other foreign debris on the inside back cover of this manual to get 17 Follow the above procedure for the from entering the engine, place clean rags an indication of the overall running condition remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at into the openings in the lower intake mani- of the engine. a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug fold. 14 It's a good idea to lightly coat the wires. 10 Detach any clips securing the spark plug threads of the spark plugs with an anti-seize 18 On V6 models, replace the spark plug wires. Using a twisting motion, loosen the compound (see illustration) to insure that wires, distributor cap and rotor (see Section boot/wire at the valve cover, then withdraw the spark plugs do not seize in the aluminum 29). Remove the rags from the lower intake the boot/wire from the valve cover (see illus- cylinder head. Be careful not to get any of the manifold and install the upper intake manifold tration 27.7b). anti-seize compound on the plug electrodes! (see Chapter 2B).
    48. Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-25 28.2a The PCV valve (arrow) is located in a hose leading from the valve cover to the intake manifold (four-cylinder engines) 28.2b Removing the PCV valve from the valve cover (V6 engine) 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. spark plug wire from the ignition coil pack. 28 Positive Crankcase Ventilation Make sure the new PCV valve is installed with Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire; (PCV) valve - check and the closed end (plunger seat) towards the don't pull on the wire itself. Use a twisting replacement (every 60,000 miles valve cover. motion to free the boot/wire from the coil. or 48 months) Disconnect the same spark plug wire from the spark plug, using the same twisting 29 Spark plug wires, distributor cap method while pulling on the boot. Disconnect Refer to illustrations 28.2a and 28.2b the spark plug wire from any retaining clips and rotor - check and 1 The PCV valve controls the amount of as necessary and remove it from the engine. crankcase vapors allowed to enter the intake replacement (see Maintenance Check inside the boot for corrosion, 5 manifold. Inside the PCV valve is a spring schedule for intervals) which will look like a white, crusty powder loaded valve that opens in relation to intake (don't mistake the white dielectric grease manifold vacuum, which allows crankcase Note: Distributor cap and rotor replacement used on some plug wire boots for corrosion vapors to be drawn from the valve cover applies to V6 engines only. protection). back into the engine combustion chamber. 6 Now push the wire and boot back onto 2 The PCV valve on four-cylinder engines All models the end of the spark plug. It should be a tight is located in the rubber hose connected to 1 The spark plug wires should be checked fit on the plug end. If not, remove the wire the intake manifold plenum and the valve at the recommended intervals or whenever and use a pair of pliers to carefully crimp the cover (see illustration). On V6 models, its new spark plugs are installed. metal connector inside the wire boot until the located in the front of the left-bank valve 2 Begin this procedure by making a visual fit is snug. cover (see illustration). check of the spark plug wires while the 7 Now push the wire and boot back into 3 To check the operation of the PCV engine is running. In a darkened garage the end of the ignition coil terminal. It should valve, disconnect the valve from the valve (make sure there is adequate ventilation) or at be a tight fit in the terminal. If not, remove the cover or hose that leads to the valve cover, night while using a flashlight, start the en g ine wire and use a pair of pliers to carefully crimp depending on your particular application. and observe each plug wire. Be careful not to the metal connector inside the wire boot until 4 Start the engine. A hissing sound should come into contact with any moving engine the fit is snug. be heard coming from the PCV valve. Place parts. If possible, use an insulated or non- 8 Now, using a cloth, clean each wire your finger over the valve opening - there conductive object to wiggle each wire. If along its entire length. Remove all built-up should be vacuum present. If there's no vac- there is a break in the wire, you will see arc- dirt and grease. As this is done, inspect for uum at the valve, check for a plugged hose, ing or a small blue spark coming from the burned areas, cracks and any other form of plenum port or valve. Replace any plugged or damaged area. Secondary ignition voltage damage. Bend the wires in several places to deteriorated hoses. increases with engine speed and sometimes ensure that the conductive material inside 5 Check the spring-loaded valve located a damaged wire will not produce an arc at hasn't hardened. Repeat the procedure for inside for freedom of movement by using a idle speed. Have an assistant press the the remaining wires. small screwdriver or equivalent to push the accelerator pedal to raise the engine speed 9 If new spark plug wires are required, valve off its seat and see it returns to the fully to approximately 2000 rpm. Check the spark purchase a complete set for your particular seated position. If the valve is sluggish or the plug wires for arcing as stated previously. If engine. The terminals and rubber boots inside of the valve is contaminated with gum arcing is noticed, replace all spark plug wires. should already be installed on the wires. and carbon deposits, the valve must be Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mix- replaced. Four-cylinder engines ing up the firing order and make sure the ter- 6 To replace the valve, disconnect it from minals are securely seated on the coil pack 3 Perform the following checks with the the intake manifold hose and valve cover or and the spark plugs. engine OFF. The wires should be inspected valve cover hose as applicable. 10 Attach the plug wire to the new spark one at a time to prevent mixing up the order 7 When purchasing a replacement PCV plug and to the ignition coil pack using a which is essential for proper engine opera- valve, make sure it's for your particular vehi- twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly tion. Note: Due to the short length of the cle and engine size. Compare the old valve seated. Attach the spark plug wire to any spark plug wire, always disconnect the spark with the new one to make sure they're the retaining clips to keep the wires in their plug wire from the ignition coil pack first. same. proper location on the valve cover. 4 With the engine cool, disconnect the
    49. 1-26 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance V6 engine Refer to illustration 29.15 Note: On V6 engines, the manufacturer rec- ommends replacing the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor at the same time. 11 Remove the upper intake manifold (see 29.15 Distributor cap Chapter 2B). retaining screw locations 12 To prevent dirt or other foreign debris (V6 engines only) from entering the engine, place duct tape over the openings of the lower intake mani- fold. 13 Remove the EGR tube from the EGR valve (see Chapter 6 if necessary). 14 Disconnect one spark plug wire from the distributor cap. Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire; don't pull on the wire itself. Use a twisting motion to free the boot/wire from the distributor. Install the removed wire into the new distributor cap in the exact same location. Repeat this procedure until all spark plug wires are installed in the new cap. 15 Loosen the 2 screws and remove the old distributor cap (see illustration). Remove the rotor. on the boot until it is firmly seated. Attach the 16 Install the new rotor and distributor cap spark plug wire to any retaining clips as 30 Fuel filter - replacement (with spark plug wires attached). required. 17 Replace the spark plugs as described in 19 Using a new gasket, install the EGR 1 The manufacturer does not suggest Section 27, except do not reattach the spark tube onto the EGR valve (see Chapter 6). periodic fuel filter replacement on JA series plug wires to the retaining clips. Tighten the bolts to the torque given in the models. See Chapter 4 if the fuel filter 18 Replace the spark plug wires one at a Specification Section of Chapter 6. requires replacement due to a fuel restriction ti me to avoid mixing up the firing order and 20 Remove the duct tape from the lower or fuel contamination problem. make sure the terminals are securely seated intake manifold. on the distributor cap and the spark plugs. 21 Install the upper intake manifold (see Install the plug wires using a twisting motion Chapter 2B).
    50. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines Contents Section Section Balance shafts (2.4L engine) .......................................... See Chapter 2C Oil pan - removal and installation ........................................................ 13 Camshafts - removal, inspection and installation ................................ 10 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation ...................................14 Camshaft oil seal - replacement ............................................................8 Rear main oil seal - replacement ......................................................... 16 CHECK ENGINE light ....................................................... See Chapter 6 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle.................... 2 Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement ................................................. 7 Rocker arm and hydraulic valve lash adjuster - removal, Cylinder head - removal and installation ..............................................12 inspection and installation ................................................................9 Engine mounts - check and replacement ............................................ 17 Timing belt - removal, inspection and installation ................................. 6 Exhaust manifold - removal and installation..........................................5 Top dead center (TDC) for number one piston .............. See Chapter 2C Driveplate - removal and installation ....................................................15 Valve cover - removal and installation................................................... 3 General information ................................................................................1 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement ................................11 Intake manifold - removal, inspection and installation .......................... 4 Specifications General Bore ......................................................................................................... 3.445 inches Stroke 2.0L.................................................................................................... 3.268 inches 2.4L.................................................................................................... 3.976 inches Compression ratio 2.0L .................................................................................................... 9.8:1 2.4L.................................................................................................... 9.4:1 Front Compression pressure ............................................................................ 170 to 225 psi Of Displacement Vehicle 2.0L.................................................................................................... 122 cubic inches 2.4L .................................................................................................... 148 cubic inches Firing order.............................................................................................. 1-3-4-2 Oil pressure At idle speed...................................................................................... 4 psi (minimum) Cylinder numbering and coil At 3000 rpm ....................................................................................... 25 to 80 psi terminal locations
    51. 2A-2 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines Camshaft Bearing journal diameter 2.0L No. 1............................................................................................. 1.619 to 1.6199 inches No. 2 ............................................................................................. 1.634 to 1.635 inches No. 3............................................................................................. 1.650 to 1.651 inches No. 4............................................................................................. 1.666 to 1.668 inches No. 5 ............................................................................................. 1.682 to 1.6829 inches 2.4L .................................................................................................... 1.021 to 1.022 inches Bearing bore diameter 2.0L No. 1.............................................................................................. 1.622 to 1.6228 inches No. 2............................................................................................. 1.637 to 1.638 inches No. 3............................................................................................. 1.653 to 1.654 inches No. 4............................................................................................. 1.669 to 1.670 inches No. 5............................................................................................. 1.685 to 1.6858 inches 2.4L .................................................................................................... 1.024 to 1.025 inches Bearing clearance ................................................................................... 0.0027 to 0.003 inch Endplay 2.0L ................................................................................................. 0.0059 inch 2.4L ................................................................................................. 0.002 to 0.006 inch Lobe lift 2.0L Intake ............................................................................................ 0.307 inch Exhaust......................................................................................... 0.277 inch 2.4L Intake ............................................................................................ 0.324 inch Exhaust ......................................................................................... 0.256 inch Cylinder head Head gasket surface warpage limit ......................................................... 0.004 inch maximum Exhaust manifold mounting surface warpage limit ................................. 0.006 inch maximum (per foot) Intake and exhaust manifolds Warpage limit .......................................................................................... 0.006 inch maximum (per foot) Rocker arm shaft assemblies (2.0L engine only) Rocker arm shaft diameter ...................................................................... 0.786 to 0.7867 inch Rocker arm inside diameter .................................................................... 0.787 to 0.788 inch Rocker arm-to-shaft clearance ............................................................... 0.0006 to 0.0021 inch Rocker arm shaft retainer width Intake................................................................................................. 1.12 inches Exhaust No. 1 and No. 5............................................................................ 1.14 inches No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4.................................................................. 1.59 inches Oil pump Cover warpage limit ................................................................................ 0.003 inch Inner rotor thickness 2.0L.................................................................................................... 0.301 inch (minimum) 2.4L .................................................................................................... 0.370 inch (minimum) Outer rotor thickness 2.0L .................................................................................................... 0.301 inch (minimum) 2.4L .................................................................................................... 0.370 inch (minimum) Outer rotor diameter ................................................................................ 3.148 inch (minimum) Rotor-to-pump cover clearance .............................................................. 0.004 inch Outer rotor-to-housing clearance............................................................ 0.015 inch (maximum) Inner rotor-to-outer rotor lobe clearance ................................................ 0.008 inch (maximum) Pressure relief spring free length ............................................................. 2.39 inches (approximate) Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Camshaft bearing cap bolts M6 bolts ............................................................................................. 105 in-lbs M8 bolts ............................................................................................. 250 in-lbs Camshaft position sensor bolts 2.0L.................................................................................................... 85 in-lbs 2.4L .................................................................................................... 20
    52. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-3 Torque specifications (continued) Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Camshaft sprocket/pulley bolt 2.0L.............................................................................................................85 2.4L .............................................................................................................75 Crankshaft damper bolt................................................................................... 100 to 105 Cylinder head bolts Step 1 .....................................................................................................25 Step 2 ....................................................................................................50 Step 3....................................................................................................50 Step 4 ....................................................................................................Tighten an additional 1/4 turn (90-degrees) Engine mounting bracket bolts ........................................................................30 to 45 Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts .........................................................200 in-lbs Exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe bolts ..........................................................20 Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts .................................................................. 105 in-lbs Front engine mount strut and structural collar bolts (1998 2.4L engine only) (see illustration 13.16) Bolts 1 through 3 ........................................................................................ 75 Bolts 4 through 8 ........................................................................................ 45 Driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts ......................................................................... 70 Intake manifold bolts 2.0L (plastic manifold) .................................................................................105 in-lbs 2.4L (aluminum manifold) ........................................................................... 200 in-lbs Oil filter adapter fastener ..................................................................................60 2A Oil pan bolts .....................................................................................................105 in-lbs Oil part-to-transaxle structural collar bolts (1997 2.4L and 1998 2.0L engines only) Step 1 (collar-to-oil pan bolts) .................................................................... 30 in-lbs Step 2 (collar-to-transaxle bolts) ................................................................ 80 Step 3 (collar-to-oil pan bolts) .................................................................... 40 Oil pump Attaching bolts ............................................................................................250 in-lbs Cover screws ..............................................................................................105 in-lbs Pick-up tube bolt........................................................................................ 250 in-lbs Relief valve cap bolt................................................................................... 30 Rocker arm shaft bolts (2.0L) ...........................................................................250 in-lbs Thermostat housing bolts ................................................................................ 200 in-lbs Timing belt Cover bolts 2.0L........................................................................................................105 in-lbs 2.4L Outer-to-inner attaching bolts ......................................................... 40 in-lbs Inner cover-to-head/oil pump bolts ................................................. 105 in-lbs Tensioner bolts Mechanical type ......................................................................................... 250 in-lbs Hydraulic type Tensioner pulley assembly plate bolts ..................................................23 Tensioner unit bolts ...............................................................................23 Tensioner pulley bolt .............................................................................30 Timing belt idler pulley bolt (2.4L)....................................................................45 Valve cover bolts .............................................................................................. 105 in-lbs Water pump mounting bolt.............................................................................. 105 in-lbs *Refer to Part C for additional torque specifications
    53. 2A-4 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines L 3.6a Remove the valve cover mounting bolts .. . 3.6b ... and lift the cover and gasket off the cylinder head improve access to the engine 'as repairs are 5 Clearly label and then disconnect any 1 General information performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). emission hoses and electrical cables which Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the connect to or cross over the valve cover. This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in- paint. Special pads are available, but an old 6 Remove the valve cover bolts and lift the vehicle engine repair procedures on models bedspread or blanket will also work. cover off (see illustrations). If the cover equipped with 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter four-cylin- If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks sticks to the cylinder head, tap on it with a der engines. Information concerning engine develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal soft-face hammer or place a wood block removal and installation and engine block replacement, the repairs can generally be against the cover and tap on the wood with a and cylinder head overhaul can be found in made with the engine in the vehicle. The hammer. Caution: If you have to pry between Part C of this Chapter. intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan the valve cover and the cylinder head, be The following repair procedures are gasket, camshaft and crankshaft oil seals extremely careful not to gouge or nick the based on the assumption that the engine is and cylinder head gasket are all accessible gasket surfaces of either part. A leak could installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been with the engine in place. develop after reassembly. removed from the vehicle and mounted on a Exterior engine components, such as 7 Remove the valve cover gasket, 1/2 stand, many of the steps outlined in this Part the intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan, round seal (2.4L engines) and spark plug tube of Chapter 2 will not apply. the oil pump, the water pump, the starter seals. Thoroughly clean the valve cover and The Specification Section included in motor, the alternator, the distributor and the remove all traces of old gasket material. Gas- this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the proce- fuel system components can be removed for ket removal solvents are available from auto dures contained in this Part. Part C of Chap- repair with the engine in place. parts stores and may prove helpful. After ter 2 contains the Specification Section nec- Since the camshaft(s) and cylinder head cleaning the surfaces, degrease them with a essary for cylinder head and engine block can be removed without pulling the engine, rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone. rebuilding. valve component servicing can also be There are two four-cylinder engines accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. Installation installed in the models covered in this man- Replacement of the timing belt and sprockets Refer to illustrations 3.8 and 3.9 ual; the 2.0L Single Overhead Camshaft is also possible with the engine in the vehicle. 8 Install the new spark plug tube seals (SOHC) engine and the 2.4L Double Over- In extreme cases caused by a lack of (see illustration). head Camshaft (DOHC) engine. The main dif- necessary equipment, repair or replacement 9 Install a new gasket on the cover, ference between the 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and using RTV sealant to hold it in place (see engines, besides the obvious engine dis- rod bearings is possible with the engine in the illustration). placement, is the incorporation of two bal- vehicle. However, this practice is not recom- ance shafts installed below the crankshaft of mended because of the cleaning and prepa- the 2.4L engine. For service information on ration work that must be done to the compo- the balance shafts refer to Part C of this nents involved. Chapter. 3 Valve cover - removal and Repair operations possible with installation 2 the engine in the vehicle Removal Many major repair operations can be Refer to illustrations 3.6a and 3.6b accomplished without removing the engine 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the vehicle. from the ground stud on the left shock tower Clean the engine compartment and the (see Chapter 5, Section 1). exterior of the engine with some type of 2 Remove the ignition coil pack from the degreaser before any work is done. It will valve cover (see Chapter 5). make the job easier and help keep dirt out of 3 Remove the spark plug wires (see Chap- the internal areas of the engine. ter 1). 3.8 Install new spark plug tube seals Depending on the components involved, 4 On 2.4L engines, disconnect the ground and make sure they are properly it may be helpful to remove the hood to strap from the valve cover. seated in the cover
    54. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-5 3.9 Apply a light coat of RTV sealant onto the cover sealing 3.16 After applying a small amount of Loctite No. 271 (or surfaces and install the new gasket (arrow) equivalent) to the lower end of the tube(s) (arrows), install it and carefully tap the tube into place until its fully seated in the cylinder head (2.0L engine only) 2A 10 On 2.4L engines, install the half-round 16 Apply approximately 1/8 inch wide strip 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable seal, apply anaerobic RTV sealant to the of Loctite sealer No. 271, or equivalent, from the ground stud on the left shock tower camshaft cap corners and at the top edges of around the lower end of the tube and install (see Chapter 5, Section 1). the half-round seal. the tube into the cylinder head. Carefully tap 3 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see 11 Place the cover on the engine and install the tube into the receptacle with a soft face Chapter 4). the cover bolts. Tighten the valve cover bolts mallet or wood block. Tap the tube in until it 4 Clearly label and disconnect all vacuum in three steps to the torque listed in this is fully seated in the cylinder head (see illus- hoses, wires, brackets and emission hoses Chapter's Specifications using a criss-cross tration). which run to the fuel injection system, throttle pattern, starting in the middle of the cover 17 Allow the Loctite to cure according to body and intake manifold (see illustrations). and working outwards. the manufacturer's instructions. 5 Remove the fuel rail and injector assem- 12 The remaining installation steps are the 18 Install the valve cover (see above). bly (see Chapter 4). reverse of removal. When installation is com- 6 Remove the throttle body (see Chap- plete, start the engine and check for oil leaks. ter 4). 4 Intake manifold - removal, 7 Remove the transaxle-to-throttle body Spark plug tube replacement inspection and installation support bracket fasteners and loosen (only) (2.0L engine only) the fastener on the transaxle side. Be sure to Warning: Allow the engine to cool completely disconnect any electrical connections that Refer to illustration 3.16 are fastened to the support bracket before 13 Remove the valve cover (see above). before beginning this procedure. trying to move the parts out of the way. 14 Grasp spark plug tube with locking pli- ers, carefully twist back and forth and remove Removal 8 Remove the EGR tube (see illustration). 9 On 2.0L engines, remove the water inlet the tube from cylinder head. Refer to illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.8, 4.11a and 4.1lb tube support-to-intake manifold fastener. 15 Clean the locking agent from the tube 10 On 2.4L engines, remove the intake end and the receptacle in cylinder head with 1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see manifold support bracket located on the solvent and dry. Chapter 4). driver's side of the manifold. 4.4a Disconnect the PCV valve hose 4.4b Disconnect the power brake booster 4.8 Remove the mounting bolts from the from the intake manifold fitting vacuum hose from the intake manifold EGR tube (arrows) at the intake manifold (2.0L engine shown) (2.0L engine shown) and EGR valve (shown) and remove the tube
    55. 2A-6 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 4.11a Remove the intake manifold mounting bolts in a 4.l lb . . . then remove the intake manifold from the cylinder head criss-cross pattern .. . 11 Unbolt the intake manifold and remove it aged, don't scrape too hard when removing from the engine (see illustrations). If it any dirt or residue. Examine the intake mani- 5 Exhaust manifold - removal, sticks, lightly tap the manifold with a soft- fold for evidence of cracks and other dam- inspection and installation face hammer or carefully pry it from the head. age. Replace if any are found. Caution: On 2.4L engines, do not pry 14 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, Warning: Allow the engine to cool completely between gasket sealing surfaces or tap on check the intake manifold mating surface for before beginning this procedure. any fuel injector boss. On 2.0L engines, the warpage. Check the intake manifold surface intake manifold is made of plastic. Although on the cylinder head also. If the warpage on Removal it's pretty strong, it's not very impact resistant any surface exceeds the limits listed in this Refer to illustrations 5.3, 5.4, 5.5 and 5.6 so use caution when tapping on it. Chapter's Specifications, the intake manifold 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable and/or cylinder head must be replaced or from the ground stud on the left shock tower Inspection resurfaced by an automotive machine shop. (see Chapter 5, Section 1). Refer to illustration 4.13 2 Set the parking brake and block the rear 12 On 2.4L engines, remove intake mani- Installation wheels. Raise the front of the vehicle and fold gasket by carefully scraping all traces of Refer to illustrations 4.15a and 4.15b support it securely on jackstands. gasket material from both the cylinder head Note: On 2.0L engines whenever the intake 3 Working under the vehicle, apply pene- and the intake manifold. Caution: The cylin- manifold is removed, the manufacturer rec- trating oil to the exhaust pipe-to-manifold der head and intake manifold are made of alu- ommends using new bolts and washers for fasteners to make removal easier. Remove minum and are easily nicked or gouged. Don't installation. the fasteners securing the exhaust pipe to the damage the gasket surfaces or a leak may 15 Install the intake manifold, using a new exhaust manifold and separate them (see result after the work is complete. Gasket gasket or 0-rings as applicable. Tighten the illustration). Remove the seal ring (2.0L) or removal solvents are available from auto parts bolts in three stages, in the sequence shown gasket (2.4L) as applicable. stores and may prove helpful. (see illustrations), to the torque listed in this 4 Disconnect the wiring harness from the 13 On 2.0L engines, remove the 0-ring seal Chapter's Specifications. upstream oxygen sensor (see illustration). gaskets on the intake and throttle body ports 16 The remaining installation steps are the 5 Remove the bolts that secure the heat (see illustration). Caution: The intake mani- reverse of removal. shield to the exhaust manifold and remove fold is made of plastic and can be easily dam - the heat shield (see illustration). 4.13 On 2.0L engines, remove the 0-ring seal gaskets (arrows) on 4.15a Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence (2.0L engine) the throttle body and intake ports
    56. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-7 4.15b Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence (2.4L engine) 5.3 Using a box wrench on the nuts and a socket on the bolt, remove the shoulder bolts, springs and nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold 8 Using a scraper, remove all traces of reverse of removal. Install a new gasket or 2A gasket material from the exhaust flange mat- seal ring (as applicable) between the exhaust ing surfaces and inspect them for wear and manifold and exhaust pipe. cracks. Caution: When removing gasket 13 Run the engine and check for exhaust material, be very careful not to scratch or leaks. gouge the sealing surface. Any damage to the surface may a leak after reassembly. Gasket removal solvents are available from auto parts 6 Timing belt - removal, inspection stores and may prove helpful. and installation 9 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, check the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head Caution: If the timing belt failed with the mating surface for warpage. Check the sur- engine operating, damage to the valves may face on the cylinder head also. If the warpage have occurred. Perform an engine compres- 5.4 Follow the harness from the upstream exceeds the limits listed in this Chapter's sion check after belt replacement to deter- oxygen sensor (arrow) and disconnect Specifications, the exhaust manifold and/or mine if any valve damage is present. it at the connector cylinder head must be replaced or resurfaced by an automotive machine shop. 6 Remove the exhaust manifold mounting Removal bolts and remove the exhaust manifold (see Refer to illustrations 6.4, 6.5, 6.8a, 6.8b, 6.9a, illustration). Note: The exhaust pipe may have Installation 6.9b, 6.11 and 6.12 to be removed from the vehicle to facilitate 10 Apply Loctite No. 271 to the mounting Caution: Do not turn the crankshaft or manifold removal (see Chapter 4 if necessary). bolt threads prior to installation. camshaft(s) after the timing belt has been 11 Install the new gasket (use no sealant), removed, as this will damage the valves from Inspection manifold and bolts. Tighten the bolts in three contact with the pistons. Do not try to turn 7 Using a wire brush, clean the exhaust stages, working from the center out, to the the crankshaft with the camshaft(s) sprocket manifold bolts, replacing any that exhibit torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. bolt(s) and do not rotate the crankshaft coun- thread damage. 12 The remaining installation steps are the terclockwise. 5.5 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield mounting bolts 5.6 Remove the exhaust manifold mounting bolts (arrows) and (arrows) and remove the heat shield separate the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head
    57. 2A-8 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 1 Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center (see Chapter 2C). 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 3 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1). 4 Loosen the large bolt in the center of the crankshaft damper pulley. It might be very tight, to break it loose insert a large screw- driver or bar through the opening in the pulley to keep the pulley stationary and loosen the bolt with a socket and breaker bar (see illus- tration). 5 Install a 3-jaw puller onto the damper pulley and remove the pulley from the crankshaft (see illustration). Use the proper insert to keep the puller from damaging the crankshaft bolt threads. If the pulley is diffi- 6.4 Insert a large screwdriver or bar 6.5 Install a 3-jaw puller onto the damper cult to remove, tap the center bolt of the through the opening in the crankshaft pulley, position the center post of the puller with a brass mallet to break it loose. pulley and wedge it against the engine puller on the crankshaft end (use the Caution: Do not use a puller that has jaws block, then loosen the bolt with a proper insert to keep from damaging the which grip the outer diameter of the damper socket and breaker bar crankshaft threads), and remove the as the damper and hub may separate. Use pulley from the crankshaft ing the timing belt (see illustrations). If nec- only the type shown in the illustration. essary, align the timing marks by rotating the 6 After removing the crankshaft pulley, belt tensioner mounting bolts (see illustra- crankshaft - clockwise only! Note: If you plan reinstall the crankshaft bolt using an appro- tion) and remove the tensioner. Note: The to reuse the timing belt, paint an arrow on it priate spacer (this will enable you to turn the to indicate the direction of rotation (clock- tensioner piston will extend when the assem- crankshaft later). bly is removed. wise). 7 Remove the right (passenger side) 12 On engines equipped with a mechanical 10 Two different types of timing belt ten- engine mount and the mounting bracket from sioners were incorporated on these engines, tensioner, insert an 8 mm (2.0L engine) the engine (see Section 17). Note: Make sure or 6 mm (2.4L engine) Allen wrench in the hydraulic and mechanical. The hydraulic the engine is supported with a floor jack hexagon fitting in the tensioner pulley. Insert tensioner is easily recognizable by the sealed placed under the oil pan. Place a wood block hydraulic unit which maintains constant pres- the long end of a 3 mm Allen wrench (or 1/8 on the jack head to prevent the floor jack from inch drill bit) into the small hole on the pulley. sure on the timing belt tensioner pulley. The denting or damaging the oil pan. mechanical type has a built-in spring inside While applying light pressure to the Allen 8 Remove the timing belt outer cover(s) the pulley which supplies clockwise tension wrench or drill bit, rotate the tensioner pulley (see illustrations). to the belt. counterclockwise until the Allen wrench or 9 Make sure the camshaft sprocket(s) and drill bit slides into the locking hole (see illus- 11 On engines equipped with a hydraulic crankshaft timing marks align before remov - tensioner, loosen, then remove the timing tration). - INDICATES RETAINING UPPER TIMING BOLT CLIP LOCATION COVER FASTENERS 1 LOWER TIMING BELT COVER FASTENERS 6.8a Remove the two lower bolts and upper clip retaining the 6.8b Timing belt outer cover fastener locations (2.4L engine) ti ming belt outer cover to the engine (2.0L SOHC engine)
    58. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-9 CAMSHAFT TIMING-MARKS TRAILING CRANKSHAFT TDCMARKS EDGE OF SPROCKET TOOTH 2A 6.9a Before removing the timing belt, make sure the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft timing marks align with their respective marks - rotate the engine (clockwise only as viewed from the 6.9b 2.4L engine timing marks - The crankshaft sprocket timing crankshaft end) as required to align both sets of timing mark is on the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth marks (2.0L engine timing marks) 13 Carefully slip the timing belt off the Inspection necessary (see Chapter 3). sprockets and set it aside. If you plan to 17 Rotate the tensioner pulley and idler pul- Refer to illustration 6.18 reuse the timing belt, store it in a plastic bag - ley (2.4L engines) by hand and move them 15 Inspect the crankshaft front oil seal for do not allow the belt to come in contact with side-to-side to detect bearing roughness and leaks and replace it if necessary (see Sec- any type of oil or water as this will greatly excess play. Visually inspect all timing belt tion 7).. sprockets for any signs of damage or wear. shorten belt life. 16 Inspect the water pump for evidence of 14 If it's necessary to remove the camshaft Replace parts as necessary. leakage (usually indicated by a trail of wet or sprocket(s), and/or timing belt rear cover (for 18 Inspect the timing belt for cracks, sepa- dried coolant). Check the pulley for excessive camshaft seal replacement, see Section 8). ration, wear, missing teeth and oil contamina- radial play and bearing roughness. Replace if tion (see illustration). Replace the belt if it's ALLEN WRENCH 6.11 Loosen, then remove the timing belt hydraulic tensioner 6.12 To relieve the timing belt tension on mechanical type mounting bolts (arrows) and remove the tensioner tensioners, place the appropriate size Allen wrench in the pulley (2.0L engine shown) and apply torque in a counterclockwise direction until the retaining pin holes align and insert a 3mm Allen wrench or 1/8 inch drill bit to hold the pulley in place
    59. 2A-10 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines in questionable condition or the engine mileage is close to that referenced in the Maintenance Schedule (see Chapter 1). 19 If equipped, check the hydraulic ten- sioner for leaks or any other obvious damage, replace if necessary. Installation 2.0L engine Refer to illustrations 6.21a, 6.2 lb and 6.21c 20 Confirm that the camshaft sprocket tim- ing marks are aligned (see illustration 6.9a). Reposition as required. 21 Position the crankshaft timing belt sprocket as follows (see illustrations): a) Initially align the TDC mark on the 6.18 Carefully inspect the timing belt - 6.21a On 2.0L engines, use a box-end bending it backwards will often make wrench or socket to rotate the crankshaft sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump wear or damage more apparent ti ming sprocket until the TDC mark on the housing. sprocket is aligned with the arrow on the b) Then back it off counterclockwise 3 27 Install the timing belt as follows; first oil pump housing (arrow) .. . teeth BTDC. c) Rotate the crankshaft sprocket clock- place the belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, wise to 1/2-tooth before the arrow mark maintaining tension on the belt, wrap it on the oil pump housing. around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, 22 Install the timing belt as follows; first camshaft sprockets and the tensioner pulley. place the belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, To take up the belt slack, rotate the exhaust maintaining tension on the belt, wrap it camshaft counterclockwise until the timing around the water pump sprocket, camshaft marks on both sprockets align. sprocket and the tensioner pulley. Engines with a mechanical 23 To take the slack out of the timing belt, rotate the crankshaft timing sprocket clock- tensioner wise to align the timing marks (TDC), make 28 On engines equipped with a mechanical sure the camshaft sprocket timing marks tensioner, pull the retaining pin from the ten- remain aligned. sioner pulley. 29 Using the bolt in the center of the 2.4L engine crankshaft sprocket, turn the crankshaft Refer to illustration 6.25 clockwise two complete revolutions. Cau- tion: If you feel resistance while turning the 6.21b . . . then back it off 24 Confirm that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned (see illustra- crankshaft - STOP, the valves may be hitting counterclockwise 3 teeth BTDC (arrows) tion 6.9b). the pistons from incorrect valve timing. Stop 25 Rotate the exhaust camshaft sprocket and re-check the valve timing. Note: The sprocket, realign the marks, reinstall the belt, clockwise so the timing mark is 1/2 tooth camshaft and crankshaft sprocket marks will and check the alignment again. below the intake camshaft timing mark as align every two revolutions of the crankshaft. 31 The remaining installation steps are the shown (see illustration). 30 Recheck the alignment of the timing reverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaft 26 Next, align the crankshaft sprocket tim- marks (see illustrations 6.9a and 6.9b). If pulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chap- ing mark with the arrow mark on the oil pump the marks do not align properly, loosen the ter's Specifications. Start the engine and housing (see illustration 6.9b). tensioner, slip the belt off the camshaft road test the vehicle. CAMSHAFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET EXHAUST SPROCKET INTAKE 6.21c Rotate the crankshaft timing sprocket clockwise 6.25 Before installing the timing belt, rotate the exhaust to 1/2-tooth BTDC (arrows) camshaft sprocket clockwise so the timing mark is 1/2 tooth below the timing mark on the intake camshaft sprocket
    60. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-11 6.32a The hydraulic tensioner piston (arrow) must be compressed 6.32b Place the tensioner in a vise with the hole (arrow) facing up. into the tensioner housing prior to installation Compress the piston with the vise and insert a 5/64 inch Allen wrench or drill bit through the hole to keep the piston retracted for installation 2A Engines with a hydraulic tensioner tensioner. The timing belt tension is correct be inserted and withdrawn freely, readjust the Refer to illustrations 6.32a, 6.32b and 6.34 when the pin can be withdrawn and rein- ti ming belt tension and repeat Steps 34 32 On engines equipped with a hydraulic serted easily. Verify that the timing marks on through 37. the camshaft sprocket(s) and crankshaft 38 The remaining installation steps are the tensioner, the piston must be compressed sprocket are still aligned at TDC. reverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaft into the tensioner housing prior to installation. Place the tensioner in a vise with the pin 36 Using the bolt in the center of the pulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chap- crankshaft sprocket, turn the crankshaft ter's Specifications. holes facing up. Slowly compress the ten- clockwise two complete revolutions. Cau- 39 Start the engine and road test the vehi- sioner, then install a 5/64-inch Allen wrench or drill bit through the body to retain the pis- tion: If you feel resistance while turning the cle. crankshaft - STOP, the valves may be hitting ton in this position (see illustrations). the pistons from incorrect valve timing. Stop Remove the tensioner from the vise. 7 Crankshaft front oil seal - 33 Install the tensioner assembly - except and re-check the valve timing. Note: The camshaft and crankshaft sprocket marks will replacement don't tighten the bolts at this time. align every two revolutions of the crankshaft. 34 Have an assistant place a torque Recheck the alignment of the timing marks Refer to illustrations 7.2, 7.3, 7.5 and 7.6 wrench on the center bolt of the tensioner pulley and apply 250 in-lbs of torque in a (see illustrations 6.9a and 6.9b). If the Caution: Do not rotate the camshaft(s) or marks do not align properly, loosen the ten- crankshaft when the timing belt is removed or clockwise direction. With the torque applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up sioner, slip the belt off the camshaft damage to the engine may occur. against the tensioner pulley bracket and sprocket(s), realign the marks, reinstall the 1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6). belt, and check the alignment again. 2 Remove the crankshaft timing belt tighten the tensioner bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustra- 37 After crankshaft rotation, recheck the sprocket from the crankshaft with a bolt-type ti ming belt tension by inserting the retaining gear puller (see illustration). Remove the tion). Remove the torque wrench. pin (5/64-inch Allen wrench or drill bit) back Woodruff key from the crankshaft keyway. 35 Pull the Allen wrench or drill bit from the into the tensioner. If the retaining pin cannot LOCKING PIN INSTALLED INTO THE TENSIONER 6.34 Using a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt, apply 250 7.2 Attach a bolt-type gear puller to the crankshaft sprocket and inch-lbs of torque as shown, move the hydraulic tensioner up remove the sprocket from the crankshaft against the tensioner pulley bracket and tighten the tensioner mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications
    61. 2A-12 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 7.3 Using a screwdriver, very carefully pry 7.5 Lubricate the new front crankshaft 7.6 Position the crankshaft sprocket with the front crankshaft seal from it's bore seal with engine oil and using a hammer the word FRONT (arrow) facing out and and socket, drive the seal into the bore install it onto the crankshaft until it's flush with the oil pump housing 8.4a Remove the hydraulic tensioner 8.4b . . . and then remove the pulley and 8.7 Remove the rear timing belt cover pulley/plate assembly mounting bracket assembly (2.0L engine) bolts (arrows) .. . removal. the seal), installing a new seal will probably 3 While holding the camshaft sprocket, not stop the leak. 3 Wrap the tip of a small screwdriver with remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Then, 5 Lubricate the new seal with engine oil tape. Working from below the right inner using two large screwdrivers, lever the and using a hammer and the appropriate size fender, use the screwdriver to carefully pry sprocket off the camshaft. Note: To hold the socket, drive the seal into the bore until it's the seal out of its bore (see illustration). camshaft/sprocket while loosening the bolt, a Take care to prevent damaging the oil pump flush with the oil pump housing. (see illustra- strap-type damper/pulley holder tool is rec- assembly, the crankshaft and the seal bore. tion). ommended and is available at most auto 6 Install the Woodruff key and the 4 Thoroughly clean and inspect the seal parts stores. If the strap wrench is unavail- bore and sealing surface on the crankshaft. crankshaft timing belt sprocket with the word able, remove the valve cover to access the FRONT facing out onto the crankshaft (see Minor imperfections can be removed with wrenching flats on the camshaft (2.4L illustration). emery cloth. If there is a groove worn in the engines only). crankshaft sealing surface (from contact with 7 The remaining installation steps are the 4 On 2.0L engines, remove the 2 bolts reverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaft securing the tensioner pulley bracket to the pulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chap- engine block and remove the pulley and ter's Specifications. bracket assembly (see illustrations). Do not 8 Start the engine and check for oil leaks. attempt to loosen the center bolt on the pul- ley or the pulley pivot bolt, remove the pulley and bracket together. 8 Camshaft oil seal - replacement 5 On 2.4L engines, remove the idler pul- ley. Refer to illustrations 8.4a, 8.4b, 8.7, 8.8, 6 On 2.0L engines equipped with a 8.10a, 8.10b and 8.12 hydraulic timing belt tensioner, remove the Caution: Do not rotate the camshaft(s) or tensioner pulley. crankshaft when the timing belt is removed or 7 Remove the bolts securing the rear damage to the engine may occur. cover to the engine block and cylinder head. 1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6). Remove the rear cover (see illustration). 2 Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise Carefully pry out the camshaft oil seal 8 until the crankshaft sprocket is three teeth using a small screwdriver (see illustration). BTDC (see illustration 6.21b). This will pre- Don't scratch the bore or damage the 8.8 Carefully pry the camshaft seal out of vent engine damage if the camshaft sprocket camshaft in the process (if the camshaft is the bore - DO NOT nick or scratch the is inadvertently rotated during sprocket bolt damaged, the new seal will end up leaking). camshaft or seal bore
    62. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-13 8.10a Using a hammer and socket, gently 8.10b If space is limited and you can't use 8.12 When installing a camshaft sprocket, tap the new seal into place with the a hammer and socket to install the seal, a make sure the pin in the camshaft is spring side facing inward seal installer can be made from a section aligned with the hole in the of pipe (of appropriate diameter), a bolt sprocket (arrows) 9 Clean the bore and coat the outer edge and washer. Place the pipe over the of the new seal with engine oil or multi-pur- seal and press it into place by turn at a time each, until the valve spring pose grease. Also lubricate the seal lip. tightening the bolt 2A pressure is relieved, in the reverse order of 10 Using a socket with an outside diameter the tightening sequence (see illustration slightly smaller than the outside diameter of 9.20). Completely loosen the bolts, but do the seal and a hammer (see illustration), not remove them, since leaving them in place carefully drive the new seal into the cylinder 9 Rocker arm and hydraulic valve will prevent the assembly from falling apart head until it's flush with the face of the cylin- lash adjuster - removal, when it is lifted off the cylinder head. der head. If a socket isn't available, a short inspection and installation 6 Lift the rocker arms and shaft assem- section of pipe will also work. Note: If engine blies from the cylinder head and set them on location makes it difficult to use a hammer to install the camshaft seal, fabricate a seal Removal the workbench (see illustration). Note: The hydraulic valve lash adjusters may become installation tool from a piece of pipe cut to the 2.0L engine dislodged from the rocker arms during shaft appropriate length, a bolt and a large washer Refer to illustration 9.6 removal. If required, secure the adjusters in (see illustration). Place the section of pipe 1 Position the number one piston at Top place using electrical tape. over the seal and thread the bolt into the Dead Center (see Chapter 2C). 7 Disassemble the rocker arm shaft com- camshaft. The seal can now be pressed into 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable ponents. Caution: Before disassembly, mark the bore by tightening the bolt. from the ground stud on the left shock tower the rocker arm shafts, rocker arms, shaft 11 Install the rear timing belt cover, ten- (see Chapter 5, Section 1). retainers and plastic shaft spacers (intake sioner pulley/bracket, idler pulley and ten- 3 Remove the valve cover (see Section 3). only) so all the parts can be reassembled in sioner pulley as applicable. 4 Prior to removing the rocker arm shafts, their original locations. To keep the rocker 12 Install the camshaft sprocket, aligning mark the front shaft (intake manifold side) as arms and related parts in order, it's a good the pin in the camshaft with the hole in the the intake rocker arm shaft and the rear shaft idea to remove them and put them onto two sprocket (see illustration). Use an appropri- (exhaust manifold side) as the exhaust. Cau- lengths of wire (such as unbent coat hangers) ate tool to hold the camshaft sprocket while tion: Do not interchange the rocker arms onto in the same order as they're removed, mark- tightening the sprocket bolt to the torque a different shaft as this could lead to prema- ing each wire (which simulates the rocker li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. ture wear. shaft) as to which end would be the front of 13 Reinstall the timing belt (see Section 6). 5 Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts 1/4 - the engine. 14 Run the engine and check for oil leaks. o — 9.9 On 2.4L engines, once the camshafts have been removed, the rocker arms and hydraulic valve lash adjusters (located below the rocker arm can be removed) - be sure to keep the rocker arms and lash adjusters in order so they can be returned 9.6 Intake and exhaust rocker arms and shaft assemblies to their original locations (2.0L engine)
    63. 2A-14 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2.4L engine 13 Check all the rocker shaft components. Refer to illustration 9.9 Look for worn or scored shafts, etc. and replace any parts found to be damaged or 8 Remove both camshafts (see Sec- tion 10). worn excessively. 9 Once the camshafts have been 2.4L engine removed, the rocker arms (a.k.a. cam follow- Refer to illustration 9.14 ers) can be lifted off (see illustration). Cau- 14 Visually check the rocker arm tip, roller tion: Each rocker arm and valve lash adjuster and lash adjuster pocket for wear (see illus- must be placed back in it's original location, tration). Replace them if evidence of wear or so mark them or place them in a marked con- tainer (such as an egg carton or cupcake tray) damage is found. 15 Inspect each adjuster carefully for signs so they won't get mixed up. of wear and damage, particularly on the ball 10 Remove the rocker arms and hydraulic valve lash adjusters from the cylinder head. tip that contacts the rocker arm. Since the lash adjusters frequently become clogged, 9.11 2.0L engine rocker arm/valve lash Inspection we recommend replacing them if you're con- adjuster assembly (intake rocker cerned about their condition or if the engine arm shown) 2.0L engine is exhibiting valve "tapping" noises. Refer to illustration 9.11 1 Hydraulic valve lash adjuster Note: The valve lash adjuster is an integral Installation 2 Rocker shaft bore 3 Roller part of each rocker arm and cannot be 2.0L engine replaced separately. Refer to illustrations 9.18, 9.19 and 9.20 17 When assembling the rocker arms on 11 Visually check the rocker arms for wear 16 Prior to installation, the lash adjusters the shaft assembly, make sure they're rein- (see illustration). Replace them if evidence of wear or damage is found. must be partially full of engine oil - indicated stalled in their original locations. by little or no plunger action when the 18 On the intake rocker arm shaft, make 12 Inspect each lash adjuster carefully for adjuster is depressed. If there's excessive sure the plastic spacers are installed on the signs of wear and damage, particularly on the surface that contacts the valve tip. Since the plunger travel, place the rocker arm assembly shaft in the correct locations (see illustra- into clean engine oil and pump the plunger tion). lash adjusters frequently become clogged, until the plunger travel is eliminated. Note: If 19 Install the rocker arm assemblies with we recommend replacing the rocker arm/lash adjuster assembly if you're concerned about the plunger still travels within the rocker arm the notch in each rocker arm shaft located at when full of oil it's defective and the rocker the timing belt end of the engine and facing their condition or if the engine is exhibiting arm assembly must be replaced. UP (see illustration). valve "tapping" noises. TIP 9.14 2.4L engine rocker arm 9.18 Intake rocker arm plastic spacer locations (arrows) (2.0L engine) 4 9.19 Both rocker arm shafts must be installed with the notches 9.20 Rocker arm shaft bolt tightening sequence (2.0L engine) (arrows) facing UP and at the timing belt end of the engine
    64. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-15 REMOVE OUTSIDE BEARING CAPS FIRST 10.7 2.4L engine camshaft bearing cap location numbers - they 10.8 Remove the outside bearing caps first, then loosen the must be reinstalled in their original locations remaining bearing cap bolts in the sequence shown 1/4 turn at a ti me until they can be unscrewed by hand (2.4L engine) 20 Tighten the rocker arm bolts in 24 Install the hydraulic lash adjusters and sequence shown (see illustration). Once the sequence shown (see illustration) using 3 rocker arms back in their proper locations on bearing caps have all been loosened enough 2A steps to reach the torque listed in this Chap- the cylinder head. for removal, they may still be difficult to ter's Specifications. 25 Install the camshafts (see Section 10). remove. Using the bearing cap bolts for extra 21 The remaining installation steps are the 26 When re-starting the engine after replac- leverage, move the cap back and forth to reverse of removal. Run the engine and ing the rocker arm/lash adjusters, the loosen the cap from the cylinder head. If they check for oil leaks and proper operation. adjusters will normally make "tapping" are still difficult to remove you can tap them 22 When re-starting the engine after replac- noises. After warm-up, slowly raise the speed gently with a soft face mallet so they can be ing the rocker arm/lash adjusters, the of the engine from idle to 3,000 rpm and back lifted off. Caution: Store them in order so adjusters will normally make "tapping" to idle over a one minute period. If the they can be returned to their original loca- noises. After warm-up, slowly raise the speed adjuster(s) do not become silent, replace the tions, with the same side facing forward. of the engine from idle to 3,000 rpm and back defective lash adjuster assembly. 9 Carefully lift the camshafts out of the to idle over a one minute period. If the cylinder head. Mark the camshafts INTAKE adjuster(s) do not become silent, replace the and EXHAUST, they cannot be mixed-up. defective rocker arm/lash adjuster assembly. 10 Camshaft(s) - removal, 10 Remove the front seal from each inspection and installation camshaft. Note: Now is a good time to 2.4L engine inspect the rocker arms and lash adjusters 23 Prior to installation, the lash adjusters (see Section 9). must be partially full of engine oil - indicated Removal by little or no plunger action when the Inspection adjuster is depressed. If there's excessive 2.0L engine Refer to illustration 10.12 plunger travel, place the rocker arm assembly Note: The camshaft cannot be removed with 11 Thoroughly clean the camshaft(s) and into clean engine oil and pump the plunger the cylinder head installed in the vehicle. the gasket surface. Visually inspect the until the plunger travel is eliminated. Note: If 1 Remove the cylinder head (see Sec- camshaft for wear and/or damage to the lobe the plunger still travels within the rocker arm tion 12). surfaces, bearing journals and seal contact when full of oil it's defective and the rocker 2 Remove the camshaft position sensor surfaces. Visually inspect the camshaft bear- arm assembly must be replaced. (see Chapter 6). ing surfaces in the cylinder head and bearing 3 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from caps (2.4L engines) for scoring and other the opening in the rear of the cylinder head. damage. Caution: Don't damage the camshaft lobes 12 Measure the camshaft bearing journal or bearing journals during removal and instal- diameters (see illustration). Measure the lation through the opening in the cylinder inside diameter of the camshaft bearing sur- head. faces in the cylinder head, using a telescop- 4 Remove the camshaft front seal from ing gauge (on 2.4L engines, temporarily the cylinder head. install the bearing caps). Subtract the journal 2.4L engine measurement from the bearing measurement to obtain the camshaft bearing oil clearance. Refer to illustrations 10.7 and 10.8 Compare this clearance with the value listed 5 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6). in this Chapter's Specifications. Replace 6 Remove the camshaft sprockets and the worn components as required. rear timing belt cover (see section 8). 13 Replace the camshaft if it fails any of the 7 The camshaft bearing caps are identi- above inspections. Note: If the lobes are fied with their numbered location in the cylin- worn, replace the rocker arms and lash der head (see illustration). adjusters along with the camshaft. Cylinder 8 Remove the outside bearing caps at 10.12 Measure the camshaft bearing head replacement may be necessary if the each end of the camshafts first. Remove the journal diameters with a micrometer and camshaft bearing surfaces in the head are remaining camshaft bearing caps, loosening compare the measurements to the damaged or excessively worn. the bolts a little at a time to prevent distorting dimensions given in this Chapter's 14 Clean and inspect the cylinder head as the camshaft(s) by loosening the caps in the described in Part C of this Chapter. Specifications
    65. 2A-16 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 10.18 Measure the camshaft endplay with a dial indicator 10.20 Prior to installing the camshaft, lubricate the bearing positioned on the sprocket end of the camshaft as shown journals, thrust surfaces and lobes with assembly lube or clean engine oil Camshaft endplay measurement sive, check the camshaft and cylinder head and thrust portions of the camshaft with bearing journals for wear and replace as nec- assembly lube or engine oil (see illustration Refer to illustration 10.18 essary. 10.20). 15 Lubricate the camshaft(s) and cylinder 28 Carefully install the camshafts in the head bearing journals with clean engine oil. Installation cylinder head in their correct location. Tem- 16 On 2.0L engines, carefully insert the porarily install the camshaft sprockets and camshaft into the cylinder head and install 2.0L engine rotate the camshafts so their timing marks the camshaft position sensor. Tighten the Refer to illustration 10.20 align (see illustration 6.9b). Make sure the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's 20 Very carefully clean the camshaft and crankshaft is positioned with the crankshaft Specifications. bearing journals. Liberally coat the journals, sprocket timing mark at three teeth BTDC 17 On 2.4L engines, place the camshaft in lobes and thrust portions of the camshaft (see illustration 6.21b). Caution: If the pis- it's respective place in the cylinder head. with assembly lube or clean engine oil (see tons are at TDC when tightening the camshaft Note: Do not install the rocker arms for this illustration). bearing caps, damage to the engine may check. Install the rear bearing cap and tighten 21 Carefully install the camshaft in the occur. the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's cylinder head. 29 Install the bearing caps, except for the Specifications. 22 Install a new camshaft oil seal (see Sec- No. 1 and No. 6 (left side) end caps (see 18 Install a dial indicator set up on the tion 8). illustration 10.7). Tighten the bolts in 3 pro- cylinder head and place the indicator tip on 23 Install the camshaft position sensor (see gressive steps in the sequence shown to the the camshaft at the sprocket end (see illus- Chapter 6). torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications tration). 24 Install the cylinder head (see Section 12). (see illustration). 19 Using a screwdriver, carefully pry the 25 Install the rocker arm shaft assembly 30 Apply a small bead of anaerobic sealant camshaft fully to the rear (toward the (see Section 9). (approximately 1/8 inch) to the No. 1 and No. camshaft position sensor) until it stops. Zero 2.4L engine 6 (left side) bearing caps (see illustration). the dial indicator and pry the camshaft fully to Install the bearing caps and tighten the bolts the front (toward the dial indicator end). The Refer to illustrations 10.29 and 10.30 to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi- amount of indicator travel is the camshaft 26 If removed, install the valve lash cations. endplay. Compare the endplay measurement adjusters and rocker arms (see Section 9). 31 Install new camshaft oil seals (see Sec- with the tolerance given in this Chapter's 27 Clean the camshaft and bearing journals tion 8). Specification Section. If the endplay is exces - and caps. Liberally coat the journals, lobes FRONT CAM CAP (#1L/1R) 1.0 mm (0.039 in.) DIAMETER BEAD OF MOPAR GASKET MAKER 10.29 Tighten the camshaft bearing caps progressing in 3 equal steps in the sequence shown until the torque value given in this 10.30 Apply a small bead of anaerobic sealant to the No. 1 and Chapter's Specifications has been reached (2.4L engine) left side No. 6 bearing caps as shown
    66. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-17 11.4 This is what the air hose adapter that 11.7 Use needle-nose pliers (shown) or a 11.8 Remove the valve guide seal/spring threads into the spark plug hole looks small magnet to remove the valve keepers seat assembly with a pair of pliers li ke - they're usually available from - be careful not to drop them down into auto parts stores the engine! head will have to be removed for repair. 32 Install the timing belt, covers and related damage or injury when the crankshaft moves. 12 Pull up on the valve stem to close the components (see Section 6). 7 Stuff clean shop rags into the cylinder valve, reapply air pressure to the cylinder to 2A 33 Run the engine while checking for oil head holes above and below the valves to retain the valve in the closed position, then leaks. prevent parts and tools from falling into the remove the tape or rubber band from the engine, then use a valve spring compressor valve stem. to compress the spring. Remove the keepers 13 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil 11 Valve springs, retainers and seals with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet and install a new valve guide seal/spring seat - replacement (see illustration). assembly. Tap into place with deep socket 8 Remove the spring retainer and valve (see illustration). spring, then remove the valve guide 14 Install the spring in position over the Refer to illustrations 11.4, 11.7, 11.8, 11.13 seal/spring seat assembly (see illustration). valve. and 11.15 Caution: If air pressure fails to hold the valve 15 Install the valve spring retainer. Com- Note: Broken valve springs and defective in the closed position during this operation, press the valve spring and carefully position valve stem seals can be replaced without the valve face and/or seat is probably dam- the keepers in the groove. Apply a small dab removing the cylinder heads. Two special aged. If so, the cylinder head will have to be of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold tools and a compressed air source are nor- removed for additional repair operations. it in place if necessary (see illustration). mally required to perform this operation, so 9 Wrap a rubber band or tape around the 16 Remove the pressure from the spring read through this Section carefully and rent or top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall tool and make sure the keepers are seated. buy the tools before attempting the job. into the combustion chamber, then release 17 Disconnect the air hose and remove the 1 Remove the valve cover (see Section 3). the air pressure. adapter from the spark plug hole. 2 Remove the spark plug from the cylinder 10 Inspect the valve stem for damage. 18 If applicable, install the spark plug tubes which has the defective component. If all of Rotate the valve in the guide and check the (2.0L engines only, see Section 3). the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of end for eccentric movement, which would 19 Install the rocker arms (see Section 9). the spark plugs should be removed. indicate that the valve is bent and needs to 20 Install the spark plug(s) and connect the 3 Turn the crankshaft until the piston in be replaced. wire(s). the affected cylinder is at top dead center on 11 Move the valve up-and-down in the 21 Install the valve cover (see Section 3). the compression stroke (refer to Chapter 2C). guide and make sure it doesn't bind. If the 22 Start and run the engine, then check for If you're replacing all of the valve stem seals, valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or oil leaks and unusual sounds coming from begin with cylinder number one and work on the guide is damaged. In either case, the the valve cover area. the valves for one cylinder at a time. Move from cylinder-to-cylinder following the firing order sequence (see this Chapter's Specifi- cations). 4 Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole (see illustration) and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compres- sion gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that may work with your air hose quick-disconnect fit- ting. On 2.0L engines, the spark plug tubes may need to be removed to facilitate adapter installation. 5 Remove the rocker arms (see Section 9). 6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder. Warning: The piston may be forced down by compressed air, causing the crankshaft to 11.13 Gently tap the new seal into place 11.15 Apply a small dab of grease to each turn suddenly. If the wrench used when posi- with a hammer and a deep socket keeper before installation to hold it in tioning the number one piston at TDC is still place on the valve stem until the attached to the crankshaft bolt, it could cause spring is released
    67. 2A-18 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 12.4 Cover the intake ports with duct tape (arrow) to 12.15a Carefully lift the cylinder head straight up and place the keep out debris before removing the cylinder head head on wood blocks to prevent damage to the sealing surfaces (2.0L engine shown) (2.0L engine shown) 5 Remove the bolts securing the power head (see Chapter 6). 12 Cylinder head - removal and steering reservoir and hoses to the cylinder 14 Loosen the cylinder head bolts, 1/4-turn installation head and position them out of the way (see at a time, in the reverse order of the tighten- Chapter 10 if necessary). ing sequence (see illustrations 12.21a or Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely 6 Remove the exhaust manifold (see Sec- 12.21b) until they can be removed by hand. before beginning this procedure. tion 5). Note: The exhaust manifold is easier Note: Mark the locations of the different to remove after the cylinder head is removed, length bolts so they can be reinstalled in their Removal if possible leave it attached. original locations. Refer to illustrations 12.4, 12.15a, 12.15b and 7 Disconnect the upper radiator hose from 15 Carefully lift the cylinder head (see illus- 12.16 the thermostat housing (see Chapter 3 if nec- tration) straight up and place the head on 1 Position the number one piston at Top essary). wood blocks to prevent damage to the seal- Dead Center (see Chapter 2C). 8 Disconnect the electrical connector from ing surfaces. If the head sticks to the engine the camshaft position sensor (see Chapter 5). block, dislodge it by placing a wood block 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower 9 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6). against the head casting and tapping the (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 10 Remove camshaft sprocket(s) and rear wood with a hammer or by prying the head ti ming belt cover (see Section 8). with a prybar placed carefully on a casting 3 Drain the cooling system and remove the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). 11 On 2.0L engines, remove rocker arm protrusion (see illustration). Note: Cylinder 4 Remove the intake manifold (see Sec- shaft assemblies (see Section 9). head disassembly and inspection procedures 12 On 2.4L engines, remove the camshafts, are covered in Chapter 2, Part C. It's also a tion 4). Cover the intake ports on the manifold and cylinder head with duct tape to keep out rocker arms and valve lash adjusters (see good idea to have the head checked for foreign debris and contamination (see illus- Section 9). warpage, even if you're just replacing the 13 Remove the EGR valve from the cylinder gasket. tration). 12.15b If the head is stuck to the engine block, dislodge it by 12.16 Place a precision straightedge along the cylinder head bolt placing a wood block against the head casting and tapping thread profile as shown, if any part of the bolt threads are not the wood with a hammer or by prying the head with a on the straightedge, the bolt must be replaced prybar placed carefully on a casting protrusion
    68. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-19 12.21a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 2.0L engine 12.21b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 2.4L engine 16 Remove all traces of old gasket material Installation valve lash adjusters (see Section 9). from the block and head. Caution: The cylin- Refer to illustrations 12.21a and 12.21b 23 On 2.4L engines, install the rear timing 2A der head is aluminum, be very careful not to belt cover, camshafts and camshaft sprock- 18 On 2.0L engines, install the camshaft if ets (see Section 10). gouge the sealing surfaces. Special gasket removed (see Section 10). 24 ON 2.0L engines, install the rear timing removal solvents that soften gaskets and 19 Place a new gasket and the cylinder belt cover and camshaft sprocket (see Sec- make removal much easier are available at head in position on the engine block. auto parts stores. When working on the tion 10). 20 Apply clean engine oil to the cylinder 25 Install the timing belt (see Section 6). block, place clean shop rags into the cylin- head bolt threads and install them back in After installation, slowly rotate the crankshaft ders to help keep out debris. Use a vacuum their original locations (noted in Step 14). to remove any contamination from the by hand clockwise through two complete 21 Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the revolutions. Recheck the camshaft timing engine. Use a tap of the correct size to chase sequence shown (see illustrations) pro- marks. the threads in the engine block. Clean and gressing in 3 stages to the torque listed in inspect all threaded fasteners for damage. 26 Reinstall the remaining components in this Chapter's Specifications. After the third the reverse order of removal. Inspect the cylinder head bolt threads for pass, tighten the bolts in the proper 27 Be sure to refill the cooling system and "necking," where the diameter of threads nar- sequence, an additional 90-degrees (1/4-turn) row due to bolt stretching (see illustration). check all fluid levels (see Chapter 1 if neces- more. Note: A torque wrench is not required If any cylinder head bolt exhibits damage or sary). for the 1/4-turn procedure. Before performing 28 Start the engine and run it until normal necking, it must be replaced. Note: If further the final pass, mark the bolts in relation to operating temperature is reached. Check for disassembly of the cylinder head is required, the cylinder head and place another mark leaks and proper operation. refer to Part C of this Chapter. 90-degrees clockwise from the starting mark. 17 Refer to Part C of this Chapter for clean- 22 Install the rocker arms and hydraulic ing and inspection of the cylinder head. 13 Oil pan - removal and installation Removal Refer to illustrations 13.7, 13.10a, 13.10b, 13.11a and 13.11b 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 3 Remove the accessory drivebelt splash shield (see Chapter 1). 4 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). 5 Remove the transmission support bracket. 6 Remove the front engine mount and strut (see Section 17). Note: On 2.4L engines, it may be necessary to remove the engine support module, if equipped. 7 If equipped, remove the transaxle-to-oil pan structural collar (see illustration). 8 On 2.0L engines, remove the transaxle inspection cover. 9 On 2.0L engines, equipped with air con- ditioning, remove the oil filter and adapter.
    69. 2A-20 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 13.10a If the oil pan is stuck to the block, tap it with a 13.10b Remove the oil pan from the block - be careful not to spill soft faced mallet to break it loose any residual oil that may be inside 10 Using a criss-cross pattern, loosen and remove the mounting bolts, then lower the oil pan from the vehicle. Note: On models equipped with an engine support module (see Section 17), separate the oil pan from the engine block enough to facilitate oil pump pickup tube removal. If the pan is stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammer (see illustrations) or place a wood block against the pan and tap the wood block with a hammer. Caution: If you're wedging something between the oil pan and the engine block to separate the two, be extremely careful not to gouge or nick the gasket surface of either part; an oil leak could result. 11 Remove the oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly (see illustration). Remove 13.11a Unscrew the bolt (arrow) and 13.l lb Removing the 0-ring seal from the the 0-ring seal from the oil pick-up tube and remove the oil pump pick-up tube oil pump pick-up tube discard (see illustration). Thoroughly clean assembly - clean both the tube and the tube and screen. On vehicles equipped screen thoroughly and inspect Installation with an engine support module, the oil pan for damage or foreign debris Refer to illustrations 13.14 and 13.16 can now be removed from the engine. 12 Thoroughly clean the sealing surfaces 13 Install a new 0-ring onto the oil pick-up on the oil pan and block. Use a scraper to Straighten or replace as necessary. After tube and install it onto the oil pump housing. remove all traces of old gasket material. Gas- cleaning and straightening (if necessary), Tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this ket removal solvents are available at auto wipe the gasket surfaces of the pan and Chapter's Specifications. parts stores and may prove helpful. Check block clean with a rag soaked in lacquer thin- 14 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant at the oil pan sealing surface for distortion. ner or acetone. the cylinder block-to-oil pump assembly joint 13.14 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant to the cylinder block- 13.16 Front engine mount strut and structural collar bolt to-oil pump assembly joint on the oil pan flange identification - 1998 2.4L engine
    70. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-21 14.5a Remove the oil pump assembly mounting bolts (arrows) 14.5b If the pump will not come off by hand, tap it gently with a and separate the assembly from the engine block soft-faced hammer or pry gently on a casting protrusion (2.0L engine shown) 2A at the oil pan flange (see illustration). Install quantity and grade of oil (see Recommended (see Chapter 5, Section 1). a new oil pan gasket. lubricants and fluids Section in Chapter 1). 2 Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube 15 Place the oil pan into position and 20 Run the engine and check for leaks. assembly (see Section 13). install the bolts finger tight. Working Road test the vehicle and check for leaks 3 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6) sfrom the center out, tighten the bolts to ide-to again. and crankshaft sprocket (see Section 7). the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica- 4 On 2.4L engines, remove the oil filter. tions. 5 Remove the bolts and detach the oil 14 Oil pump - removal, inspection pump assembly from the engine (see illustra- 16 When installing the front engine mount strut and collar on 1998 2.4L engines, install and installation tion). Caution: If the pump doesn't come off all bolts hand tight, then tighten the bolts in by hand, tap it gently with a soft-faced ham- the order shown to the torque listed in this Note: The oil pump pressure relief valve can mer or pry on a casting boss (see illustration). Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). be serviced without removing the oil pan and 6 Unscrew the mounting screws and 17 On 1997 2.4L and 1998 and later 2.0L oil pick-up tube. remove the rotor assembly cover from the oil engines, install the oil pan-to-transaxle struc- pump housing. Withdraw the inner and outer tural collar and tighten the bolts in three rotors from the body (see illustrations). Removal steps to the torque listed in this Chapter's Caution: Be very careful with these compo- Refer to illustrations 14.5a, 14.5b, 14.6a, nents. Close tolerances are critical in creating Specifications. 14.6b, 14.6c, 14.6d, 14.8 and 14.9 the correct oil pressure. Any nicks or other 18 The remaining installation steps are the 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable damage will require replacement of the com- reverse of removal. from the ground stud on the left shock tower plete pump assembly. 19 Refill the crankcase with the proper 14.6a Exploded view of oil pump components (2.0L engine shown, 2.4L similar - except oil filter adapter is part of oil pump housing)
    71. 2A-22 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 14.6b Remove the rotor cover mounting screws (arrows) .. . 14.6c . . . and lift off the rotor cover 7 Using a hammer and brass drift, care- is installed. Unscrew the cap bolt and remove block surfaces and oil pan with solvent, then fully remove the crankshaft front seal from the bolt, washer, spring and relief valve (see inspect all surfaces for excessive wear and/or the oil pump housing and discard it. illustration). damage. 8 Remove the 0-ring seal from the oil 11 Inspect the oil pressure relief valve pis- pump housing discharge port and discard it Inspection ton sliding surface and valve spring for dam- (see illustration). Refer to illustrations 14.12a, 14.12b, 14.12c, age. If either the spring or the valve is dam- 9 Disassemble the relief valve assembly, 14.12d and 14.12e aged, they must be replaced as a set. taking note of the way the relief valve piston 10 Clean all components including the Measure the relief valve spring free length 14.6d Exploded view of oil pump assembly A Rotor cover B Outer rotor C Inner rotor D Oil pump body 14.8 Remove the discharge port 0-ring seal from the oil pump body - apply clean engine oil to the new seal at installation 14.9 Remove the oil pressure relief valve 14.12a Measure the outer rotor thickness 14.12b Measure the inner rotor thickness cap bolt from the oil pump body and at 4 locations equally spaced at 4 locations equally spaced withdraw the spring and the relief valve piston
    72. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-23 14.12c Measure the outer rotor's outer diameter at 4 locations 14.12d Use a flat feeler gauge to measure the outer rotor-to-oil equally spaced pump body clearance at 4 locations equally spaced 2A and compare it with the dimension given in 14 Lubricate the oil pump rotor recess in 19 Install the oil pump pick-up tube assem- this Chapter's Specifications. Replace the the housing and the inner and outer rotors bly and oil pan (see Section 13). spring if its out of tolerance by more than 1/8 with clean engine oil and install both rotors in 20 Install a new oil filter (see Chapter 1). of an inch. the body. If the inner rotor has a chamfer, Lower the vehicle. 12 Check the oil pump rotor dimensions install it so the chamfer is facing the rotor 21 Fill the crankcase with the proper quan- and clearances with a micrometer or vernier cover. Next, fill the rotor cavity with clean tity and grade of oil (see Recommended lubri- calipers and a feeler gauge (see illustra- engine oil and install the cover. Tighten the cants and fluids Section in Chapter 1). tions) and compare the results to the toler- cover screws to the torque listed in this 22 Connect the negative battery cable to ances given in this Chapter's Specifications. Chapter's Specifications. the ground stud on the left shock tower. Replace both rotors if any dimension is out of 15 Install a new 0-ring in the oil discharge 23 After the sealant has cured per the man- tolerance. passage. ufacturer's directions, start the engine and 16 Apply anaerobic sealant to the oil pump check for leaks. Installation body sealing surface (see illustration), and Refer to illustration 14.16 position the pump assembly on the block 13 Lubricate the relief valve piston, piston aligning the inner rotor and crankshaft drive 15 Driveplate - removal and bore and spring with clean engine oil. Install flats. Tighten the oil pump attaching bolts to installation the relief valve piston into the bore with the the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica- grooved end going in first followed by the tions. spring and cap bolt. Tighten the cap bolt to the 17 Install the new crankshaft front seal into Removal torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. the oil pump housing (see Section 7). Refer to illustrations 15.5 and 15.6 Note: If the relief valve piston is installed incor- 18 Install the crankshaft sprocket (see Sec- 1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely rectly, serious engine damage could occur. tion 7) and timing belt (see Section 6). on jackstands. 14.12e With the rotors installed, place a precision straightedge 14.16 Apply a bead of anaerobic sealant to the oil pump housing across the rotor cover surface and measure the clearance sealing surface as shown between the rotors and the rotor cover surface at 4 locations equally spaced
    73. 2A-24 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 15.5 Match-mark the position of the driveplate and backing plate 15.6 Remove the driveplate from the crankshaft to the crankshaft and using an appropriate tool to hold the driveplate, remove the bolts 2 Remove the transaxle assembly (see grease and oil. Inspect it for cracks, distortion li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. Chapter 7). and missing or excessively worn ring gear 12 The remaining installation steps are the 3 On vehicles equipped with a manual teeth. Replace if necessary. reverse of the removal. transaxle, now is a good time to 8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces check/replace the modular clutch assembly of the driveplate and the crankshaft. (see Chapter 8). 9 If the crankshaft rear main seal is leak- 4 To ensure correct alignment during rein- ing, replace it before reinstalling the drive- 16 Rear main oil seal - replacement stallation, match-mark the driveplate and plate (see Section 16). backing plate to the crankshaft so they can Refer to illustrations 16.3 and 16.5 be reassembled in the same position. 1 The one-piece rear main oil seal is 5 Remove the bolts that secure the fly- Installation pressed into a bore machined into the rear wheel or driveplate to the crankshaft (see 10 Position the driveplate and backing main bearing cap and engine block. illustration). A special tool is available a most plate against the crankshaft. Align the previ- 2 Remove the transaxle, modular clutch auto parts stores to hold the driveplate while ously applied match marks. Before installing assembly (if equipped) and driveplate (see loosening the bolts, if the tool is not available the bolts, apply thread locking compound to Section 15). wedge a screwdriver in the starter ring gear the threads. 3 Note: Observe that the oil seal is teeth to jam the driveplate. 11 Hold the driveplate with the special installed flush with the outer surface of the 6 Remove the driveplate from the holding tool, or wedge a screwdriver in the block. Pry out the old seal with a 3/16-inch crankshaft (see illustration). starter ring gear teeth to keep the driveplate flat blade screwdriver (see illustration). Cau- 7 Clean the driveplate to remove any from turning. Tighten the bolts to the torque tion: To prevent an oil leak, be very careful 16.3 Using a 3/16 inch flat blade screwdriver, very carefully pry 16.5 Position the new seal with the words THIS SIDE OUT facing the crankshaft rear main seal out of it's bore - DO NOT nick or away from the rear of the engine. Install this seal DRY! DO NOT scratch the sealing surfaces on the crankshaft or seal bore lubricate! Gently and evenly drive the seal into the cylinder block until it is FLUSH with the outer surface of the block. DO NOT drive it past flush or there will be an oil leak - the seal must be FLUSH!
    74. Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-25 TRANSMISSION RIGHT ENGINE SUPPORT SUPPORT ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY LEFT FRAME FRAME RAIL RAIL GROUND CABLE TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION BRACKET 17.9a Typical left engine mount (passenger's side) 17.9b Typical right engine mount (driver's side) 2A not to scratch or otherwise damage the ported only by a jack! crankshaft sealing surface or the seal bore in 17 Engine mounts - check and 4 Check the mounts to see if the rubber is the engine block. replacement cracked, hardened or separated from the 4 Clean the crankshaft and seal bore in metal backing. Sometimes the rubber will the block thoroughly and de-grease the areas 1 Engine mounts seldom require atten- split right down the center. by wiping them with a rag soaked in lacquer tion, but broken or deteriorated mounts 5 Check for relative movement between thinner or acetone. DO NOT lubricate the lip should be replaced immediately or the added the mount plates and the engine or frame or outer diameter of the new seal - it must be strain placed on the driveline components (use a large screwdriver or pry bar to attempt installed as it comes from the manufacturer - may cause damage or accelerated wear. to move the mounts). If movement is noted, DRY. lower the engine and tighten the mount fas- Position the new seal onto the Check teners. 5 crankshaft. Note: When installing the new 2 During the check, the engine must be 6 Rubber preservative may be applied to seal, if so marked, the words THIS SIDE OUT raised slightly to remove the weight from the the mounts to help slow deterioration. on the seal must face out, toward the rear of mounts. the engine. Using an appropriate size driver 3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely Replacement and pilot tool, drive the seal into the cylinder on jackstands, then position a jack under the Refer to illustrations 17.9a, 17.9b, 17.9c, block until it is flush with the outer surface of engine oil pan. Place a large wood block 17.9d, 17.9e and 17.9f the block. If the seal is driven in past flush, between the jack head and the oil pan to pre- 7 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- there will be an oil leak. Check that the seal is vent oil pan damage, then carefully raise the port it securely on jackstands. flush (see illustration). engine just enough to take the weight off the 8 Place a floor jack under the engine (with 6 The remaining installation steps are the mounts. Warning: DO NOT place any part of a wood block between the jack head and oil reverse of removal. your body under the engine when it's sup - pan) and raise the engine slightly to relieve 17.9c Typical front engine mount
    75. 2A-26 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT SUPPORT BRACKET (SOME MODELS) FRONT ENGINE MOUNT DAMPER WEIGHT (SOME MODELS) ENGINE SUPPORT MODULE REAR STRUT REAR BRACKET ENGINE MOUNT 17.9d Typical engine support module (front and rear 17.9e Typical 2.0L rear engine mount lower mounts - 1995 through 1997 models) 17.9f Typical 2.4L rear engine mount the weight from the mounts. Note: On 1995 to condenser (if equipped) must be supported. engine/transaxle removal. 1997 models, the front engine mount (engine 9 Remove the fasteners and detach the 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. support module) is attached to the lower radi- mount from the frame and engine (see illus- Use thread locking compound on the mount- ator support. When removing the engine sup- trations). Caution: Do not disconnect more ing bolts and be sure to tighten them port module, the radiator and air conditioning than one mount at a time, except during securely.
    76. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine Contents Section Section Camshafts - removal, inspection and installation ................................10 Oil pan - removal and installation ........................................................ 13 Camshaft oil seal - replacement ............................................................8 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation ...................................14 CHECK ENGINE light ........................................................See Chapter 6 Rear main oil seal - replacement ......................................................... 16 Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement ..................................................7 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle .....................2 Cylinder head - removal and installation ..............................................12 Rocker arm and hydraulic valve lash adjuster Engine mounts - check and replacement ............................................ 17 assembly - removal, inspection and installation .............................. 9 Exhaust manifold - removal and installation .......................................... 5 Timing belt - removal, inspection and installation ................................. 6 Driveplate - removal and installation ....................................................15 Top dead center (TDC) for number one piston .............. See Chapter 2C General information................................................................................1 Valve cover - removal and installation ................................................... 3 Intake manifold ...................................................................................... 4 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement ................................ 11 2B Specifications General Bore ......................................................................................................... 3.29 inches Stroke...................................................................................................... 2.992 inches Displacement ........................................................................................... 152 cubic inches (2.5 liters) Firing order.............................................................................................. 1-2-3-4-5-6 Compression ratio ................................................................................... 9.4:1 Compression pressure ............................................................................ 178 psi @ 250 rpm Oil pressure At idle speed ...................................................................................... 6 psi (minimum) At 3000 rpm........................................................................................ 35 to 75 psi Camshaft Endplay Standard ............................................................................................. 0.004 to 0.008 inch Service limit ........................................................................................ 0.0016 inch Cylinder head Cylinder head gasket surface warpage limit........................................... 0.008 inch Intake and exhaust manifolds Intake manifold warpage limit ................................................................. 0.008 inch Exhaust manifold warpage limit .............................................................. 0.012 inch 5 3 1 Cylinder numbering and spark plug wire terminal locations FRONT OF VEHICLE
    77. 2B-2 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine Oil pump Inner rotor-to-outer rotor lobe clearance .........................................................0.003 to 0.007 inch Outer rotor-to-housing clearance Standard .....................................................................................................0.004 to 0.007 inch Service limit ................................................................................................ 0.0138 inch Rotor-to-cover clearance (end clearance)....................................................... 0.0015 to 0.0035 inch Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Camshaft sprocket bolt ....................................................................................65 Camshaft thrust case bolts.............................................................................. 108 in-lbs Crankshaft damper/pulley bolt .........................................................................134 Crankshaft rear main seal retainer bolts .......................................................... 97 in-lbs Cylinder head bolts..........................................................................................80 EGR tube bolts .................................................................................................95 in-lbs Engine mounting bracket bolts ........................................................................ 33 Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head nuts..........................................................33 Exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts ........................................................... 21 Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts ..................................................................115 in-lbs Driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts ......................................................................... 70 Intake manifold Upper intake manifold bolts ........................................................................160 in-lbs Lower intake manifold bolts........................................................................185 in-lbs Oil filter adapter bolts.......................................................................................17 Oil pan bolts ..................................................................................................... 53 in-lbs Oil pump Attaching bolts M8 bolts .................................................................................................10 M10 bolts .............................................................................................. 30 Cover bolts ................................................................................................. 88 in-lbs Pick-up tube bolts...................................................................................... 168 in-lbs Relief valve cap bolt ................................................................................... 30 Rocker arm shaft bolts .....................................................................................23 Thermostat housing bolts................................................................................ 168 in-lbs Timing belt Cover bolts..................................................................................................105 in-lbs Tensioner arm assembly bolt ..................................................................... 33 Tensioner pulley bolt .................................................................................. 35 Valve cover bolts ..............................................................................................88 in-lbs Water pump mounting bolt.............................................................................. 17 "Refer to Part C for additional torque specifications from the vehicle. Since the camshafts and cylinder head 1 General information Clean the engine compartment and the can be removed without pulling the engine, exterior of the engine with some type of valve component servicing can also be This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in- degreaser before any work is performed. It accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. vehicle engine repair procedures. Information will make the job easier and help keep dirt Replacement of the timing belt and sprockets concerning engine removal and installation out of the internal areas of the engine. is also possible with the engine in the vehicle. and engine block and cylinder head overhaul Depending on the components involved, In extreme cases caused by a lack of can be found in Part C of this Chapter. it may be helpful to remove the hood to necessary equipment, repair or replacement The following repair procedures are improve access to the engine as repairs are of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and based on the assumption that the engine is performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). rod bearings is possible with the engine in the installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the vehicle. However, this practice is not recom- removed from the vehicle and mounted on a paint. Special pads are available, but an old mended because of the cleaning and prepa- stand, many of the steps outlined in this Part bedspread or blanket will also work. ration work that must be done to the compo- of Chapter 2 will not apply. If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks nents involved. The Specifications included in this Part develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures replacement, the repairs can generally be contained in this Part. Part C of Chapter 2 made with the engine in the vehicle. The 3 Valve cover - removal and contains the Specifications necessary for intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan installation cylinder head and engine block rebuilding. gasket, camshaft and crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place. Removal 2 Repair operations possible with Exterior engine components, such as Refer to illustrations 3.6 and 3.7 the intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan, 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable the engine in the vehicle the oil pump, the water pump, the starter from the ground stud on the left shock tower motor, the alternator, the distributor and the (see Chapter 5, Section 1). Many major repair operations can be fuel system components can be removed for 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see accomplished without removing the engine repair with the engine in place. Chapter 4).
    78. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-3 3.6 Valve cover mounting bolts (arrows) 3.7 Remove and replace the seal from each spark plug tube 3 If removing the rear valve cover (near cleaning the surfaces, degrease them with a 16 Apply a small amount of Loctite No. the firewall), remove the upper intake mani- rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone. 271, or equivalent, around the lower end of fold (see Section 4). the tube and install the tube into the cylinder 4 Clearly label then remove the spark plug Installation head. Carefully tap the tube into the recess wires from the valve cover (see Chapter 1 if 9 Install the new spark plug seals onto the with a wood block and mallet until it is fully 2B necessary). tubes. seated in the cylinder head. 5 Clearly label and then disconnect any 10 Install a new gasket on the cover, using emission hoses and electrical cables which anaerobic RTV sealant to hold it in place. connect to or cross over the valve cover. 11 Tighten the valve cover bolts in 3 steps 4 Intake manifold - removal and 6 Remove the valve cover bolts and lift off to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi- installation the cover (see illustration). If the cover cations using a criss-cross pattern starting in sticks to the cylinder head, tap on it with a the middle of the cover and working out- soft-face hammer or place a wood block wards. Upper intake manifold against the cover and tap on the wood with a 12 The remaining installation steps are the Removal hammer. Caution: If you have to pry between reverse of removal. When complete, run the Refer to illustrations 4.3a, 4.3b, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7a the valve cover and the cylinder head, be engine and check for oil leaks. and 4.7b extremely careful not to gouge or nick the 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable gasket surfaces of either part. A leak could Spark plug tube replacement from the ground stud on the left shock tower develop after reassembly. 13 Remove the applicable valve cover (see (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 7 Remove the spark plug tube seals. Even above). 2 Remove the air filter inlet duct from the if they look OK, they should be replaced (see 14 Grasp spark plug tube with locking pli- throttle body (see Chapter 4 if necessary). illustration). ers, carefully twist back and forth and remove 3 Clearly label and disconnect all hoses, 8 Thoroughly clean the valve cover and the tube from cylinder head. wires, brackets and emission lines which remove all traces of old gasket material. Gas- 15 Clean the locking agent from the tube attach to the intake manifold (see illustra- ket removal solvents are available from auto and the recess in cylinder head with solvent, tions). parts stores and may prove helpful. After and dry thoroughly. 4 Disconnect the accelerator cable and 4.3a Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector 4.3b Disconnect the purge vacuum hose from the throttle body fitting
    79. 2B-4 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS GASKETS NUT 4.5 Exploded view of V6 engine intake and exhaust system components cruise control cable (if applicable) from the from the lower intake manifold. Caution: Do age the gasket surfaces or a leak may result throttle body (see Chapter 4 if necessary). not pry between gasket sealing surfaces. after the work is complete. Gasket removal 5 Remove the bolts securing the upper 8 To minimize the chance of gasket debris solvents are available from auto parts stores intake manifold to the right and left side sup- or other contamination from getting into the and may prove helpful. port brackets (see illustration). engine, place clean rags into the lower intake 10 Using a precision straightedge and 6 Remove the EGR tube (see illustration). manifold passages. feeler gauge, check the upper and lower 7 Loosen the upper intake manifold bolts 9 Remove all traces of gasket material intake manifold mating surfaces for warpage in a criss-cross pattern 1/4 turn at a time until from both the upper and lower intake mani- (see illustration 4.22). If the warpage on any they can be removed by hand. Remove the fold by carefully scraping them using a suit- surface exceeds the limits listed in this Chap- upper intake manifold from the engine (see able gasket scraper. Caution: The intake ter's Specifications, the discrepant intake illustrations). If it sticks, tap the manifold manifold components are made of aluminum manifold must be replaced or resurfaced by with a soft-face hammer or carefully pry it and are easily nicked or gouged. Do not dam - an automotive machine shop. 4.6 Remove the EGR tube 4.7a Starting in the center and working outwards, remove the upper intake manifold mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern .. .
    80. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-5 4.7b ... then remove the manifold from the engine 4.22 Check the lower intake manifold gasket surface for warpage Installation sealing surfaces. stages, in the sequence shown (see illustra- 11 Remove the rags from the lower intake 20 To minimize the chance of gasket debris tion) to the torque listed in this Chapter's or other contamination from getting into the Specifications. manifold. Use a shop vacuum to remove any contamination that may be present. engine, place clean rags into the cylinder 25 Install the fuel rail (see Chapter 4). 12 Install the upper intake manifold, using a head intake passages. 26 Install the upper intake manifold, using a 21 Remove all traces of gasket material from new gasket. Tighten the bolts in three stages, new gasket. Tighten the bolts in 3 stages, working from the center out, to the torque the upper and lower intake manifold and cylin- working from the center out, to the torque li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. der heads by carefully scraping them using a li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. suitable gasket scraper. Caution: The intake 27 Install the EGR tube using new gaskets. 13 Install the EGR tube using new gaskets. manifold components and cylinder heads are Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this 2B Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. made of aluminum and are easily nicked or Chapter's Specifications. 14 The remaining installation steps are the gouged. Do not damage the gasket surfaces or 28 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. a leak may result after the work is complete. reverse of removal. Gasket removal solvents are available from auto parts stores and may prove helpful. Lower intake manifold 22 Using a precision straightedge and 5 Exhaust manifold - removal and Removal feeler gauge, check the upper and lower installation Refer to illustration 4.22 intake manifold gasket surfaces for warpage (see illustration). Check the gasket surface 15 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- Warning: Allow the engine to cool completely on the cylinder head also. If the warpage on before beginning this procedure. dure (see Chapter 4). any surface exceeds the limits listed in this Note: This procedure can be used to remove 16 Remove the upper intake manifold (see Chapter's Specifications, the discrepant one or both of the exhaust manifolds as above). component must be replaced or resurfaced 17 Remove the fuel rail and injector assem- required. by an automotive machine shop. bly (see Chapter 4). 18 Loosen the intake manifold nuts in the Removal reverse order of the tightening sequence (see Installation Refer to illustrations 5.3, 5.8 and 5.9 illustration 4.24), 1/4 turn at a time until they Refer to illustration 4.24 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable can be removed by hand. Remove the wash- 23 Remove the rags from the cylinder head from the ground stud on the left shock tower ers. intake passages. Use a shop vacuum to (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 19 Remove the lower intake manifold from remove any contamination that may be pre- 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely the engine. If it sticks, tap the manifold with a sent. on jackstands. soft-face hammer or carefully pry it from the 24 Install the lower intake manifold, using a 3 Remove the exhaust manifold heat heads. Caution: Do not pry between gasket new gaskets. Tighten the nuts in three shield(s) (see illustration). Before attempting 5.3 Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts (arrows) (front exhaust 4.24 Lower intake manifold nut tightening sequence manifold shown) - the upper alternator bracket must be removed to extract the upper left heat shield bolt
    81. 2B-6 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 5.8 Exhaust manifold-to-exhaust system joint (upper arrow) and 5.9 Exhaust manifold mounting nuts (arrows) (front manifold cross-over pipe (lower arrow) shown, heat shield removed) to remove the rear manifold heat shield, dis- connect the oxygen sensor wiring harness at the connector. In order to remove the front manifold heat shield, the alternator upper bracket must be removed. 4 To make removal easier, apply penetrat- ing oil to the exhaust manifold and manifold- to-pipe fasteners. 5 Working under the vehicle, remove the exhaust manifold cross-over pipe. 6 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness at the connector. 7 If you are removing the rear exhaust manifold (near the firewall), remove the power steering pump bracket (see Chapter 10). 8 If you are removing the rear exhaust manifold (near the firewall), detach the exhaust system from the manifold (see illus- tration). Note: It may be necessary to 6.4a To keep the crankshaft from turning, 6.4b Remove the damper/pulley from remove, or partially remove, the exhaust sys- insert a large screwdriver or bar through the crankshaft tem to facilitate rear manifold removal (see the opening in the damper/pulley and Chapter 4 if necessary). wedge it against the engine block, then 9 Unscrew the mounting nuts, remove the Removal loosen the bolt with a socket and exhaust manifold and gasket (see illustra- breaker bar Refer to illustrations 6.4a, 6.4b, 6.6, 6.7, tion). 6.11a, 6.11b, 6.12 and 6.13 10 Using a wire brush, clean the exhaust Caution: Do not turn the crankshaft or manifold studs, replacing any that show the cylinder head. camshafts after the timing belt has been thread damage. 14 Apply Loctite No. 271 to the exhaust removed, as this will damage the valves from 11 Using a scraper, remove all traces of manifold mounting stud threads. contact with the pistons. Do not try to turn gasket material from the exhaust manifold, 15 Install the manifold, washers and nuts. the crankshaft with the camshaft sprocket cylinder head, and exhaust pipe mating sur- Tighten the nuts in three stages, working bolt(s) and do not rotate the crankshaft coun- faces and inspect them for wear and cracks. from the center out, to the torque listed in this terclockwise as viewed from the timing belt Caution: When removing gasket material Chapter's Specifications. end of the engine. from any surface, especially aluminum, be 16 The remaining installation steps are the Note: In order to perform this procedure, a very careful not to scratch or gouge the gas- reverse of removal. Install a new gasket(s) special tool is required to properly tension the ket surface. Any damage to the surface may a between the exhaust manifold and exhaust timing belt. The manufacturers tool number is leak after reassembly. Gasket removal sol- pipe(s). Tighten the nuts to the torque listed "MD 998767" and may be available from a vents are available from auto parts stores and in this Chapter's Specifications. dealership parts department or directly from may prove helpful. 17 Run the engine and check for exhaust Miller Special Tools (phone no. 800-801- 12 Using a precision straightedge and leaks. 5420). feeler gauge, check the exhaust manifold 1 Position the number one piston at Top gasket surfaces for warpage. Check the sur- Dead Center (see Chapter 2C). face on the cylinder head also. If the warpage 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable 6 Timing belt - removal, inspection on any surface exceeds the limits listed in from the ground stud on the left shock tower and installation (see Chapter 5, Section 1). this Chapter's Specifications, the exhaust manifold and/or cylinder head must be 3 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1). replaced or resurfaced by an automotive Caution: If the timing belt failed with the 4 Loosen the large bolt in the center of the machine shop. engine operating, damage to the valves may crankshaft damper/pulley. It might be very have occurred. Perform an engine compres- tight, to break it loose insert a large screw- Installation sion check after belt replacement to deter- driver or bar through the opening in the pulley 13 Install the new exhaust gasket(s) onto mine if any valve damage is present. to keep the crankshaft stationary, then
    82. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-7 L. 6.7 Remove the bolts (arrows) that attach the timing belt lower cover to the engine 6.6 Timing belt cover bolt locations RIGHT CAM LEFT CAM SPROCKET SPROCKET ALIGN TIMING MARKS 2B 6.11a Verify that the camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned 6.11b Crankshaft timing belt sprocket and oil pump housing with their respective marks on the rear timing belt covers timing marks (arrows) loosen the bolt with a socket and breaker bar. Remove the bolt, washer and dam- per/pulley from the crankshaft (see illustra- tions). 5 After removing the crankshaft pulley, reinstall the crankshaft bolt using an appro- priate spacer (this will enable you to turn the crankshaft later). 6 Remove the upper-left timing belt cover (see illustration). 7 Remove the lower timing belt cover (see illustration). 8 Detach the power steering pump bracket from the engine (see Chapter 10 if necessary). 9 Remove the upper-right timing belt cover (see illustration 6.6). 10 Remove the right (passenger side) 6.12 Paint an arrow on the timing belt in 6.13 Timing belt tensioner mounting engine mount and the mounting bracket from the direction of rotation (clockwise) so it bolts (arrows) the engine (see Section 17). Note: Make sure may be reinstalled in the same direction the engine is supported with a floor jack placed under the oil pan. Place a wood block extend when the assembly is removed. on the jack head to prevent the floor jack from 12 If you plan to reuse the timing belt, paint 14 Carefully slip the timing belt off the denting or damaging the oil pan. an arrow on it to indicate the direction of sprockets and set it aside. If you plan to 11 Make sure the timing marks on the rotation (clockwise) (see illustration). reuse the timing belt, place it in a plastic bag crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprockets 13 Loosen the timing belt tensioner mount- - do not allow the belt to come in contact align with their respective marks before ing bolts and then remove the tensioner (see with any type of oil or water as this will greatly removing the timing belt (see illustrations). illustration). Note: The tensioner piston will shorten belt life.
    83. 2B-8 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 6.18 Carefully inspect the timing belt for damage or wear - 6.22 Binder clips (arrows) can be used to retain the timing belt in bending it backwards will often make defects more apparent position on the camshaft sprockets during installation 6.25 Using special tool MD 998767 attached to a torque wrench, apply 39 in-lbs of torque (in a counterclockwise direction) to the 6.24 Using a vise (lined with soft-jaws), compress the timing belt tensioner pulley, then move the tensioner unit up against the tensioner piston until the holes in the housing and piston align. tensioner pulley bracket and tighten the tensioner mounting bolts Then place a small Allen wrench (arrow) or drill bit, through the to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications holes to keep the piston in position for installation Inspection Installation sprockets. 23 Make sure the timing belt is tight Refer to illustration 6.18 Refer to illustrations 6.22, 6.24, 6.25 and 6.27 between the left camshaft sprocket and the 15 With the timing belt covers removed, 20 Confirm that the timing marks on both crankshaft sprocket, all the slack is at the now is a good time to inspect the front camshaft sprockets are aligned with their tensioner pulley and all the timing marks are crankshaft and camshaft seals for leakage. If respective marks on the rear timing belt cov- aligned. leakage is evident, replace the them (see ers (see illustration 6.11a). Reposition the 24 Before installation, the timing belt ten- Section 7 and 8, respectively). camshafts if required. Caution: if it is neces- sioner piston must be compressed into the 16 Inspect the water pump for evidence of sary to rotate the camshafts to align the tim- tensioner housing. Place the tensioner in a leakage (usually indicated by a trail of wet or ing marks, first rotate the crankshaft slightly vise so the surface with the pin hole is facing dried coolant). Check the pulley for excessive counterclockwise (three notches on the up. Slowly compress the tensioner using the radial play and bearing roughness. Replace if sprocket) to ensure the valves do not contact vise, then install an appropriate size Allen necessary (see Chapter 3). the pistons. wrench or drill bit through the body and into 17 Rotate the tensioner pulley and idler pul- 21 Position the crankshaft sprocket with the piston to retain the piston in this position ley by hand and move them side-to-side to the timing marks aligned (see illustration (see illustration). Remove the tensioner from detect bearing roughness and/or excessive 6.11b). the vise. play. Visually inspect all timing belt sprockets 22 Install the timing belt as follows; first 25 Using the special tool "MD 998767" for any signs of damage or wear. Replace as place the belt onto the right camshaft engaged in the tensioner pulley, have an necessary. sprocket (the one towards the rear of the assistant apply 39 in-lbs of torque in a coun- 18 Inspect the timing belt for cracks, sepa- vehicle) and clamp it to the sprocket, while terclockwise direction (see illustration). ration, wear, missing teeth and oil contamina- maintaining tension on the belt, wrap it under 26 With the torque applied to the tensioner tion (see illustration). Replace the belt if it's the water pump pulley and place it onto the pulley, install the tensioner assembly. Move in questionable condition or the engine left sprocket camshaft sprocket. Secure the the tensioner up against the tensioner pulley mileage is close to that referenced in the timing belt to the left camshaft sprocket (see bracket and tighten the mounting bolts to the Maintenance Schedule (see Chapter 1). illustration). Continue to wrap the timing belt torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 19 Check the timing belt tensioner unit for over the idler pulley, around the crankshaft Remove the torque wrench and special tool leaks or any other obvious damage, replace if sprocket and finishing with the tensioner pul- from the tensioner pulley. necessary. ley. Remove the clamps from the camshaft
    84. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-9 6.27 If the timing belt tension is set 7.2 After removing the timing belt 7.3 Using a hooked tool or screwdriver, correctly, the tensioner piston retaining sprocket, remove the Woodruff key carefully pry the crankshaft front seal out pin (arrow) (an Allen wrench in this case) (arrow) from the crankshaft of its bore - DO NOT nick or scratch the can be removed and installed easily crankshaft or seal bore 27 Remove the Allen wrench or drill bit 1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6). retaining the piston from the tensioner. The 2 Remove the crankshaft timing belt ti ming belt tension is correct when the ten- sprocket using a gear puller. Remove the 2B sioner piston retaining pin (Allen wrench or Woodruff key from the crankshaft keyway drill bit) can be withdrawn and reinserted eas- (see illustration). il y (see illustration). Verify that the timing 3 Wrap the tip of a small screwdriver with marks on the camshaft sprockets and vinyl tape. Carefully use the screwdriver to crankshaft sprocket are still aligned with their pry the seal out of its bore (see illustration). -respective ti ming marks (see illustrations Take care to prevent damaging the oil pump 6.11a and 6.11b). assembly, the crankshaft and the seal bore. 28 Using the bolt in the center of the 4 Thoroughly clean and inspect the seal crankshaft sprocket, slowly turn the bore and sealing surface on the crankshaft. crankshaft clockwise two complete revolu- Minor imperfections can be removed with tions. Caution: If you feel strong resistance fine emery cloth. If there is a groove worn in while turning the crankshaft - STOP, the the crankshaft sealing surface (from contact valves may be hitting the pistons from incor- with the seal), installing a new seal will proba- rect valve timing. Stop and re-check the valve bly not stop the leak. 7.5 Lubricate the new seal with clean timing. Note: The camshafts and crankshaft 5 Lubricate the new seal with engine oil engine oil and drive it into place using a sprocket marks will align every two revolu- and using a hammer and the appropriate size hammer and socket tions of the crankshaft. Recheck the align- socket, drive the seal into the bore until it's ment of the timing marks (see illustrations flush with the oil pump housing (see illustra- 6.11a and 6.11b). If the marks do not align tion). properly, remove the timing belt tensioner, 6 Install the Woodruff key into the slot in slip the belt off the camshaft sprockets, the crankshaft. Place the crankshaft timing realign the marks, reinstall the belt and ten- belt sprocket onto the crankshaft with the sioner, then check the alignment again. ti ming belt retaining lip facing inward (toward 29 After crankshaft rotation, recheck the the engine). ti ming belt tension by inserting the tensioner 7 The remaining installation steps are the piston retaining pin (Allen wrench or drill bit) reverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaft back into the tensioner. If the retaining pin pulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chap- cannot be inserted and withdrawn freely, ter's Specifications. readjust the timing belt tension and repeat 8 Start the engine and check for oil leaks. Steps 24 through 29. 30 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaft 8 Camshaft oil seal - replacement damper/pulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.4, 8.6a and 8.6b 8.3 To hold the camshaft while removing Caution: Do not rotate the camshafts or the sprocket bolt, use an old piece of crankshaft when the timing belt is removed or ti ming belt wrapped around the sprocket 7 Crankshaft front oil seal - damage to the engine may occur. and a chain wrench as shown replacement 1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6). 2 Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the crankshaft sprocket is three notches ing, remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Then Refer to illustrations 7.2, 7.3 and 7.5 BTDC. This will prevent engine damage if the using two large screwdrivers, lever the Caution: Do not rotate the camshafts or sprocket off the camshaft. Note: A strap-type camshaft sprocket is inadvertently rotated crankshaft when the timing belt is removed or damper/pulley holder tool is available at most during removal. damage to the engine may occur. auto parts stores and is recommended for 3 While keeping the camshaft from rotat -
    85. 2B-10 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 8.6b If the space is too confined to use a hammer to drive the seal in place, fabricate a tool using a bolt, washer and section of pipe. Place the section of pipe 8.4 Using a hooked tool or screwdriver, 8.6a Using a hammer and the appropriate over the seal and thread the bolt into the carefully pry the camshaft seal out of the size socket, drive the camshaft seal into camshaft to press the seal into the bore bore - DO NOT nick or scratch the the bore until it is flush with the camshaft or seal bore cylinder head signs of wear and damage, particularly on the surface that contacts the valve tip. Use a this procedure, however, if you are not going (see Chapter 5, Section 1). small diameter wire to check the oil holes for to reuse the old timing belt, you can wrap a 2 Position the number one piston at Top restrictions. piece of it around the sprocket and use a Dead Center (see Chapter 2C). 10 Since the lash adjusters frequently chain wrench to hold the sprocket in place as 3 Remove the valve cover(s) as required become clogged, we recommend replacing shown (see illustration). (see Section 3). the rocker arm/lash adjuster assembly if you're 4 Carefully pry out the camshaft oil seal 4 Prior to removing the rocker arm shafts, concerned about their condition or if the using a small hooked tool or screwdriver (see identify each rocker arm and shaft as to its engine is exhibiting valve "tapping" noises. illustration). Don't scratch the bore or dam- proper location (cylinder number and intake 11 Inspect all rocker arm shaft compo- age the camshaft in the process (if the or exhaust). Caution: Do not interchange the nents. Look for cracks, worn or scored sur- camshaft is damaged, the new seal will end rocker arms onto a different shaft or shaft faces or other damage. Replace any parts up leaking). assemblies onto a different location as this found to be damaged or worn excessively. 5 Clean the bore and coat the outer edge could lead to premature wear. of the new seal with engine oil or multi-pur- 5 Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts 1/4- Installation pose grease. Also lubricate the seal lip. turn at a time, until they can be loosened by Refer to illustrations 9.14 and 9.17 6 Using a socket with an outside diameter hand, in the reverse order of the tightening 12 Prior to installation, the lash adjusters slightly smaller than the outside diameter of sequence (see illustration 9.17). Completely must be partially full of engine oil - indicated the seal and a hammer (see illustration), loosen the bolts, but do not remove them, by little or no plunger action when the carefully drive the new seal into the cylinder leaving them in place will prevent the assem- adjuster is depressed. If there's excessive head until it's flush with the face of the cylin- bly from falling apart when it is lifted off the plunger travel, place the rocker arm assembly der head. If a socket isn't available, a short cylinder head. into clean engine oil and pump the plunger section of pipe will also work. Note: If engine 6 Lift the rocker arms and shaft assem- until the plunger travel is eliminated. Note: If location makes it difficult to use a hammer to blies from the cylinder head and set them on the plunger still travels within the rocker arm install the camshaft seal, fabricate a seal the workbench. Note: The hydraulic valve when full of oil it's defective and the rocker installation tool from a piece of pipe cut to the lash adjusters may become dislodged from arm assembly must be replaced. appropriate length, a bolt and a large washer the rocker arms during shaft removal. If 13 Install the rocker arms (and springs - (see illustration). Place the section of pipe required, secure the adjusters in place with intake shafts only) onto the shafts, making over the seal and thread the bolt into the vinyl tape. sure they are reinstalled in their original loca- camshaft. The seal can now be pressed into 7 Disassemble the rocker arm shaft com- tions. the bore by tightening the bolt. ponents paying close attention to their posi- 7 Install the camshaft sprocket, aligning tions. Note: To keep the rocker arms and the pin in the camshaft with the hole in the related parts in order, it's a good idea to sprocket. Using an appropriate tool to hold remove them and put them onto two lengths the camshaft sprocket, tighten the camshaft of wire (such as unbent coat hangers) in the sprocket bolt to the torque listed in this same order as they're removed, marking each Chapter's Specifications. wire (which simulates the rocker shaft) as to 8 Install the timing belt (see Section 6). which end would be the front of the engine. 9 Run the engine and check for oil leaks. Inspection Refer to illustration 9.8 9 Rocker arm and hydraulic valve Note: The valve lash adjuster is an integral lash adjuster assembly - part of each rocker arm and cannot be removal, inspection and replaced separately. If defective, both must installation be replaced. 8 Visually check the rocker arms for 9.8 Visually inspect the hydraulic lash excessive wear or damage (see illustration). adjuster and roller (arrows) for damage Removal Replace them if evidence of wear or damage and excessive play - check the rocker arm is found. shaft bore for score marks or 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable 9 Inspect each lash adjuster carefully for excessive wear from the ground stud on the left shock tower
    86. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-11 9.14 The intake rocker arm shaft springs (arrows) must be 9.17 Rocker arm shaft bolt TIGHTENING sequence installed as shown 14 On the intake rocker arm shafts, make 6 Remove the camshaft seal(s) from the sure that the springs are installed on the shaft 10 Camshafts - removal, inspection cylinder head(s) (see Section 8 if necessary). in the correct locations (see illustration). and installation 15 On the right (rear) cylinder head, install Inspection the rocker arm assemblies with the flat at the Note: The camshaft(s) cannot be removed Refer to illustration 10.10 end of each rocker arm shaft located at the with the cylinder head(s) installed on the 7 Using a suitable scraper, remove all ti ming belt end of the engine and positioned 2B engine. traces of gasket material from all gasket sur- toward their respective valves. faces. Caution: When removing gasket mate- 16 On the left (front) cylinder head, install Removal rial from any surface, especially aluminum, be the rocker arm assemblies with the flat at the Refer to illustration 10.5 very careful not to scratch or gouge the gas- end of each rocker arm shaft located at the 1 Remove the rocker arm shaft assem- ket surface. Any damage to the surface may a transaxle end of the engine and positioned blies (see Section 9). leak after reassembly. Gasket removal sol- toward their respective valves. 2 If you are removing the camshaft in the vents are available from auto parts stores and 17 Tighten the rocker arm shaft bolts in right (rear) cylinder head, remove the distribu- may prove helpful. sequence shown (see illustration) in three tor (see Chapter 5). 8 Thoroughly clean the camshaft(s) with a steps to the torque listed in this Chapter's 3 Remove the cylinder head (see Sec- rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone. Specifications. tion 12). Visually inspect the camshaft(s) for wear 18 The remaining installation steps are the 4 On the right cylinder head, carefully and/or damage to the lobe surfaces, bearing r everse of removal. Run the engine and withdraw the camshaft from the distributor journals and seal contact surfaces. Visually check for oil leaks and proper operation. opening in the rear of the cylinder head. Cau- inspect the camshaft bearing surfaces in the 19 When re-starting the engine after replac- tion: Do not damage the camshaft lobes or cylinder head(s) for scoring and other dam- ing the rocker arm/lash adjusters, the bearing journals during removal. Note: If you age. Cylinder head replacement may be nec- adjusters will normally make "tapping" noises are removing both camshafts, identify each essary if the camshaft bearing surfaces in the due to air in the lubrication system. To bleed one as it is removed from the cylinder head head are damaged or excessively worn. air from the lash adjusters, start the engine so that it may be installed back in it's original 9 Replace any component that fails the and allow it to reach operating temperature, location. above inspections. slowly raise the speed of the engine from idle 5 On the left (front) cylinder head, remove 10 Using a micrometer, check the camshaft to 3,000 rpm and back to idle over a one the thrust case from the rear of the cylinder lobes for excessive wear by measuring the minute period. If, after several attempts, the head and withdraw the camshaft (see illustra- center of the lobe (the area the rocker arm adjuster(s) do not become silent, replace the tion). Caution: Do not damage the camshaft roller rides on) and comparing it with the defective rocker arm/lash adjuster assembly. lobes or bearing journals during removal. edges of the lobes (the area the rocker arm 10.5 On the left (front) cylinder head, remove the thrust cover and 10.10 Check the camshaft lobes for wear with a micrometer carefully withdraw the camshaft
    87. 2B-12 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 10.15 Prior to installing the camshaft, lubricate the bearing journals, thrust surfaces and lobes with engine assembly lube or 10.13 Measure the camshaft endplay with a dial indicator clean engine oil positioned on the sprocket end of the camshaft as shown 11.5 This is what the air hose adapter that threads into the spark 11.7 Use a small magnet (shown) or needle-nose pliers to remove plug hole looks like - they're readily available from the valve spring keepers - be careful not to drop them down into auto parts stores the engine! roller does not ride on) (see illustration). If bearing journals. Liberally coat the bearing valve stem seals can be replaced without any wear is indicated, check the correspond- journals, lobes and thrust bearing surfaces of removing the cylinder heads. Two special ing rocker arm, replace the camshaft and the camshaft with engine assembly lube or tools and a compressed air source are nor- rocker arms if necessary. engine oil (see illustration). mally required to perform this operation, so 16 Carefully insert the camshaft into the read through this Section carefully and rent or Camshaft endplay measurement cylinder head. On the left side cylinder head, buy the tools before beginning the job. Refer to illustration 10.13 install the thrust case, using a new 0-ring, 1 Remove the appropriate valve cover 11 Lubricate the camshaft(s) and cylinder and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in (see Section 3). head bearing journals with clean engine oil. this Chapter's Specifications. 2 Remove the rocker arm assemblies (see 12 Carefully insert the camshaft into the 17 Install a new camshaft oil seal in the Section 9). cylinder head and install the thrust case or dis- cylinder head (see Section 8). 3 Remove the spark plugs from that head tributor as applicable. Tighten the bolts to the 18 Inspect the cylinder head bolts and (see Chapter 1 if necessary). torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. install the cylinder head(s) (see Section 12). 4 Turn the crankshaft until the piston in 13 Install a dial indicator set up on the Torque the cylinder head bolts as described the affected cylinder is at Top Dead Center cylinder head and place the indicator tip on in Section 12. on the compression stroke (refer to Chap- the camshaft at the sprocket end (see illus- 19 If removed, install the distributor using a ter 2C). If you're replacing all of the valve tration). new 0-ring (see Chapter 5). Tighten the stem seals, begin with cylinder number one 14 Using a screwdriver, carefully pry the mounting nuts to the torque listed in the and work on the valves for one cylinder at a camshaft to the rear of the cylinder head until Chapter 5 Specifications. ti me. Move from cylinder-to-cylinder follow- it stops. Zero the dial indicator and pry the 20 The remaining installation steps are the ing the firing order sequence (see this Chap- camshaft forward. The amount of indicator reverse of removal. Start the engine and ter's Specifications). travel is the camshaft endplay. Compare the check for leaks and proper operation. 5 Thread an adapter into the spark plug endplay measurement with the tolerance hole (see illustration) and connect an air li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. If the hose from a compressed air source to it. endplay is excessive, check the camshaft 11 Valve springs, retainers and seals Most auto parts stores can supply the air and cylinder head thrust bearing surfaces for - replacement hose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compres- wear and replace components as necessary. sion gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that may work with your air hose quick-disconnect fit- Installation Refer to illustrations 11.5, 11.7, 11.8, 11.13 and 11.15 ting. Refer to illustration 10.15 6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder. Note: Broken valve springs and defective 15 Very carefully clean the camshaft and Warning: The piston may be forced down by
    88. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-13 11.8 Cut-away view of the valve seal and spring components 11.13 Gently tap the new seal onto the 11.15 Apply a small dab of grease to each valve guide with a hammer and keeper before installation to hold it in deep socket place on the valve stem until the spring compressed air, causing the crankshaft to is released turn suddenly. If the wrench used when posi- it in place if necessary (see illustration). tioning the number one piston at TDC is still 16 Remove the pressure from the spring way (see Chapter 10). attached to the crankshaft pulley bolt, it could Disconnect the power steering pump tool and make sure the keepers are seated. 9 cause damage or injury when the crankshaft bracket from the engine (see Chapter 10). moves. 17 Disconnect the air hose and remove the 2B adapter from the spark plug hole. Repeat the 10 Remove the exhaust manifold(s) (see 7 Stuff clean shop rags into the cylinder procedure for any other defective valves. Section 5). head holes above and below the valves to 18 Install the rocker arm assemblies (see 11 If you are removing the left (front) cylin- prevent parts and tools from falling into the Section 9). der head, remove the EGR solenoid/trans- engine, then use a valve spring compressor ducer assembly and EGR valve from the rear tool to compress the spring. Remove the 19 Install the spark plug and connect the wire(s). of the cylinder head (see illustration). keepers with small, needle-nose pliers or a 20 Install the valve cover (see Section 3). 12 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6). magnet (see illustration). 21 Start and run the engine, then check for 13 Remove camshaft sprocket(s) (see Sec- 8 Remove the spring retainer and valve oil leaks and unusual sounds coming from tion 8). spring. Next, using pliers remove the valve the valve cover area. 14 Clearly label and disconnect any hoses, guide seal and then lift off spring seat (see li nes, brackets or electrical connections that illustration). Caution: If air pressure fails to may interfere with cylinder head removal. hold the valve in the closed position during 15 Loosen the cylinder head bolts, 1/4-turn this operation, the valve face and/or seat is 12 Cylinder head - removal and at a time, in the reverse order of the tighten- probably damaged. If so, the cylinder head installation ing sequence (see illustration 12.24) until will have to be removed for additional repair they can be removed by hand. operations. Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely 16 Carefully lift the cylinder head straight 9 Wrap a rubber band or tape around the before beginning this procedure. up and place it on wood blocks to prevent top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall damage to the sealing surfaces. If the head into the combustion chamber, then release Removal sticks to the engine block, dislodge it by the air pressure. Refer to illustrations 12.11, 12.18, 12.19a and placing a wood block against the head cast- 10 Inspect the valve stem for damage. 12.19b Rotate the valve in the guide and check the 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable end for eccentric movement, which would from the ground stud on the left shock tower indicate that the valve is bent. (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 11 Move the valve up-and-down in the 2 Position the number one piston at Top guide and make sure it doesn't bind. If the Dead Center (see Chapter 2C). valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or 3 Remove the upper and lower intake the guide is damaged. In either case, the manifolds (see Section 4). head will have to be removed for repair. 4 Drain the cooling system, remove the 12 Pull up on the valve stem to close the spark plugs and spark plug wires (see Chap- valve, reapply air pressure to the cylinder to ter 1). Note: Leave the plug wires attached to retain the valve in the closed position, then the distributor cap. remove the tape or rubber band from the 5 If you are removing the right (rear) cylin- valve stem. der head, remove the distributor (see Chap- 13 Install the valve spring seat. Lubricate ter 5). the valve stem with clean engine oil and 6 Remove the thermostat housing from place the new valve guide seal. Tap it into the rear of the cylinder heads (see Chapter 3). place with deep socket (see illustration). 7 Remove rocker arm shaft assemblies 14 Install the spring in position over the (see Section 9). valve. 12.11 EGR solenoid/transducer assembly 8 If you are removing the right (rear) cylin- 15 Install the valve spring retainer. Com- (upper arrow) and EGR valve (lower arrow) der head, remove the bolts securing the press the valve spring and carefully position - remove the EGR solenoid/transducer power steering reservoir and hoses to the the keepers in the groove. Apply a small dab and engine lifting bracket as an assembly cylinder head and position them out of the of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold
    89. 2B-14 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine STRETCHED BOLT UNSTRETCHED BOLT 12.18 Place a precision straightedge along the cylinder head bolt thread profile as shown, if any part of the bolt threads are not on 12.19a Checking the cylinder head-to-engine block gasket the straightedge, the bolt is stretched and must be replaced surface for warpage 12.19b Checking the engine block head gasket surface 12.22 When installing the head gasket onto the block, make sure for warpage all passages in the block align with the holes in the gasket ing and tapping the wood with a hammer or by prying the head with a prybar placed care- fully on a casting protrusion. Note: If further disassembly of the cylinder head is required, refer to Part C of this Chapter. 17 Remove all traces of old gasket material from the block and head. Special gasket removal solvents that soften gaskets and make removal much easier are available at auto parts stores. Caution: The cylinder head is aluminum, be very careful not to gouge the 12.23 Install the head bolt washers sealing surfaces. When working on the block, as shown place clean shop rags into the cylinders to help keep out debris. Use a vacuum to remove any contamination from the engine. Installation Use a tap of the correct size to chase the Refer to illustrations 12.22, 12.23 and 12.24 threads in the engine block. Clean and inspect all threaded fasteners for damage. 21 Install the camshaft(s) if removed (see 18 Inspect the cylinder head bolt threads Section 10). for "necking," where the diameter of threads 22 Place a new gasket on the engine block (see illustration). Use no sealer unless indi- 12.24 Cylinder head bolt narrow due to bolt stretching (see illustra- cated by the gasket manufacturer. Note any TIGHTENING sequence tion). If any cylinder head bolt exhibits dam- age or necking, it must be replaced. directions printed on the gasket such as 19 Using a precision straightedge and "Front" or "This side up." Place the cylinder ing in three stages to the torque listed in this feeler gauge, check all gasket surfaces for head(s) in position on the engine block. Chapter's Specifications. warpage (see illustrations). If the warpage 23 Install the washers onto the cylinder 25 The remaining installation steps are the on any surface exceeds the limits listed in head bolts as shown (see illustration). Apply reverse of removal. this Chapter's Specifications, the discrepant clean engine oil to the cylinder head bolt 26 Refill the cooling system and check all component must be replaced or resurfaced threads and install them into the cylinder fluid levels (see Chapter 1 if necessary). by an automotive machine shop. head. 27 Start the engine and let it run until nor- 20 Refer to Part C of this Chapter for clean- 24 Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the mal operating temperature is reached. Check ing and inspection of the cylinder head. sequence shown (see illustration) progress- for leaks and proper operation.
    90. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-15 13.5 Engine oil dipstick tube mounting 13.10 If the pan is stuck, tap it with a soft- 13.11a Lower the front of the oil pan to bolt (arrow) - exhaust manifold heat shield face hammer or place a wood block access the oil pump pick-up tube and removed for clarity against the pan and tap the wood block remove the mounting bolts .. . with a hammer to jar it loose 2B 13.11 b . . . then remove the oil pump pick up tube from 13.12 With the oil pump pick up tube removed, the oil pan can the pump body then be withdrawn over the engine support module (arrow) 13 Oil pan - removal and installation Removal Refer to illustrations 13.5, 13.10, 13.11a, 13.11b, 13.12, 13.13a and 13.13b 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 3 Remove the accessory drivebelt splash shield (see Chapter 1). 4 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). 5 Remove the dipstick tube (see illustra- tion). 13.13a Thoroughly clean the oil pan and 13.13b Remove the old gasket from the 6 Remove the starter motor (see Chap- engine block gasket surfaces with a oil pump pick up tube ter 5). scraper to remove all traces of old 7 Remove the engine-to-transmission gasket material screen assembly (see illustrations). support brackets. Remove the exhaust manifold cross- 12 Remove the oil pan from the vehicle 8 against the pan and tap the wood block with (see illustration). over pipe (see Section 5). a hammer. Caution: If you're wedging some- 13 Thoroughly clean all gasket sealing sur- 9 Remove the transaxle inspection cover. thing between the oil pan and the engine faces. Use a scraper to remove all traces of 10 Remove the mounting bolts and sepa- block to separate them, be extremely careful old gasket material (see illustrations). Gas- rate the oil pan from the engine block enough not to gouge or nick the gasket surface of ket removal solvents are available at auto to facilitate oil pump pickup tube removal. If either part; an oil leak could result. parts stores and may prove helpful. Check the pan is stuck, tap it with a soft-face ham- 11 Remove the oil pump pickup tube and the oil pan sealing surface for distortion. mer (see illustration) or place a wood block
    91. 2B-16 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine block clean with a rag soaked in lacquer thin- ner or acetone. 14 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation Installation Refer to illustration 13.14 Removal 14 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant to Refer to illustrations 14.7, 14.8, 14.9 and the oil pan as shown (see illustration). Also 14.10 apply a light coating of RTV sealant to the 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable underside of the oil pan bolt heads. from the ground stud on the left shock tower 15 Place the oil pan into position under the (see Chapter 5, Section 1). engine block and install the oil pump pick-up 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely tube. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in on jackstands. this Chapter's Specifications. 3 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1). 16 Place the oil pan against the engine 4 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6) block and install the bolts. Working from the and crankshaft sprocket and Woodruff key center and proceeding outward in a criss- (see Section 7). cross pattern, tighten the oil pan bolts to the 5 Remove the oil pan (see Section 13). torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 6 If equipped, remove the air conditioning 13.14 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV 17 The remaining installation steps are the compressor bracket from the engine and sealant to the oil pan sealing surface as reverse of removal. position it out of the way. shown - stay on the inside of the 18 Lower the vehicle and fill the crankcase 7 Remove the bolts and detach the oil bolt holes with the proper quantity and grade of engine pump assembly from the engine (see illus- oil (see Recommended lubricants and fluids tration). Caution: If the pump doesn't come Straighten or replace as necessary. After at the beginning of Chapter 1) and run the off by hand, tap it gently with a soft-faced cleaning and straightening (if necessary), engine, checking for leaks. Road test the hammer or pry on a casting boss. wipe the gasket surfaces of the pan and vehicle and check for leaks again. 8 Remove the oil filter passage 0-ring 14.7 Remove the oil pump assembly mounting bolts (arrows) and 14.8 The oil filter passage 0-ring seals (arrows) may remained detach it from the engine - bolt (A) also secures the air attached to the engine block conditioning compressor bracket (if equipped) 14.10 The alignment mark has worn off the inner rotor on this oil 14.9 Remove the rotor cover mounting screws (arrows) pump; in this case we'll use a permanent marker to match-mark the rotors for reinstallation - oil pressure relief cap bolt (A)
    92. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-17 14.16a Install the rotors into the oil pump body with the match marks aligned 14.16b Use a feeler gauge to measure the 14.16c Measuring the outer rotor-to- inner rotor-to-outer rotor lobe clearance pump body clearance seals and discard them. They may stick to are available at auto parts stores and may Installation the engine block as shown (see illustration) prove helpful. Check the oil pan sealing sur- Refer to illustration 14.19 or remain in the oil pump housing. face for distortion. Straighten or replace as 17 Lubricate the relief valve piston, piston 9 Remove the oil pump rotor cover (see necessary. After removing the residual gasket bore and spring with clean engine oil. Install material, wipe the gasket surfaces of the oil illustration). pan and block clean with a rag soaked in lac- the relief valve piston into the bore maintain- 2B 10 New rotors are manufactured with ing original orientation followed by the spring arrows on them which are aligned at installa- quer thinner or acetone. and cap bolt. Tighten the cap bolt to the tion. If both arrows are not clearly visible (see torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. illustration), use a permanent marker to Inspection Note: If the relief valve piston is installed match-mark the rotors so they can be Refer to illustrations 14.16a, 14.16b, 14.16c, incorrectly, serious engine damage could installed back in their original position. and 14.16d occur. Remove the inner and outer rotor from the 14 Clean all oil pump components with sol- 18 Lubricate the oil pump rotor recess in body. Caution: Be very careful with these vent and inspect them for excessive wear the housing and the inner and outer rotors components. Close tolerances are critical in and/or damage. Replace as required. Note: if with clean engine oil. Install the rotors into the creating the correct oil pressure. Any nicks or either rotor is damaged, they must be pump housing with the match-marks aligned other damage will require replacement of the replaced as a set. (see illustration 14.16a). Next, fill the rotor complete pump assembly. 15 Inspect the oil pressure relief valve pis- cavity with clean engine oil and install the 11 Using a hammer and drift, carefully and ton sliding surface and valve spring for dam- cover. Tighten the cover screws to the torque evenly drive the crankshaft front seal from the age. Note: If either the spring or the valve is li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. oil pump housing and discard it. damaged, they must be replaced as a set. 19 Install new 0-ring seals in the oil pump 12 Disassemble the oil pressure relief valve 16 Install the rotors into the pump housing passages located on the pump body (see assembly, taking note of the way the relief with the match-marks aligned (see illustra- illustration). If necessary, apply a light coat- valve piston is installed. Unscrew the cap bolt tion). Check the oil pump rotor clearances ing of grease on the 0-rings to hold them in and remove the bolt, washer, spring and using a precision straightedge and feeler place. relief valve (see illustration 14.10). gauges (see illustrations). Compare the 20 Install the new crankshaft front seal into 13 Thoroughly clean all gasket sealing sur- results to the tolerances listed in this Chap- the oil pump housing (see Section 7). faces. Use a scraper to remove all traces of ter's Specifications. Replace both rotors if 21 Apply a 1/8 inch bead of anaerobic old gasket material. Gasket removal solvents any clearance is out of tolerance. sealant to the oil pump body sealing surface, 14.16d Place a precision straightedge over the rotors and measure the clearance between the rotors and the straightedge 14.19 Install new 0-ring seals on the oil filter passages (arrows) to determine the rotor-to-cover clearance
    93. 2B-18 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 16.3 Carefully pry the crankshaft seal out of the bore - DO NOT 15.5 Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft nick or scratch the crankshaft or seal bore and position the pump assembly on the block grease and oil. Inspect it for cracks, distortion aligning the inner rotor and crankshaft drive and missing or excessively worn ring gear flats. Install the mounting bolts. teeth. Replace if necessary. 22 If equipped, install the air conditioning 7 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces bracket onto the engine (one bolt secures of the driveplate and the crankshaft. Check both the air conditioning bracket and the oil the crankshaft rear main seal for leakage; if pump housing). leakage is evident replace it before rein- 23 Tighten the oil pump attaching bolts stalling the driveplate (see Section 16). (see illustration 14.7) to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Installation 24 Install the Woodruff key, crankshaft tim- 8 Position the driveplate and backing ing belt sprocket (see Section 7) and timing plate against the crankshaft. Align the previ- belt (see Section 6). ously applied match marks. Before installing 25 Install the oil pan (see Section 13). the bolts, apply thread locking compound to 26 If applicable, install a new oil filter (see the threads. Chapter 1). 9 Hold the driveplate with the special 27 The remaining installation steps are the holding tool, or wedge a screwdriver in the reverse of removal. ring gear teeth to keep the driveplate from 16.6 With the seal retainer supported on 28 Lower the vehicle and fill the crankcase turning as you tighten the bolts to the torque wood blocks, use a hammer and drift to with the proper quantity and grade of oil (see li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. drive the seal out of the retainer Recommended lubricants and fluids Section 10 The remaining installation steps are the in Chapter 1). reverse of removal. 4 The following method is recommended 29 Connect the negative battery cable to and requires removal of the oil pan (see Sec- the ground stud. tion 13). 30 After the sealant has cured per the man- 16 Rear main oil seal - replacement 5 Remove the mounting bolts from the ufacturer's directions, start the engine and crankshaft rear seal retainer and separate the check for leaks. Refer to illustrations 16.3, 16.6 and 16.12 retainer from the engine block. 1 The crankshaft rear main oil seal is 6 Using a hammer and drift, carefully drive 15 Driveplate - removal and pressed into a retainer and bolted to the rear the old seal out of the retainer and discard it installation of the engine block. (see illustration). 2 Remove the driveplate (see Section 15). 7 Thoroughly clean all gasket sealing sur- 3 The crankshaft rear main oil seal can be faces. Use a scraper to remove all traces of Removal renewed without removing the oil pan or seal old gasket material. Gasket removal solvents retainer. However, this method is NOT recom- are available at auto parts stores and may Refer to illustration 15.5 mended because the lip of the seal is quite prove helpful. Check the oil pan sealing sur- 1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely stiff and it's possible to cock the seal in the face for distortion. Straighten or replace as on jackstands. retainer bore or damage it during installation. necessary. After removing the residual gasket 2 Remove the transaxle assembly (see If you want to take the chance, carefully and material, wipe the gasket surfaces clean Chapter 7). evenly pry out the old seal using a 3/16 flat using a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or ace- 3 To ensure correct alignment during rein- blade screwdriver - do not to damage the tone. stallation, match-mark the backing plate and crankshaft sealing surface (see illustration). 8 Thoroughly clean and inspect the seal driveplate to the crankshaft before removal. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the bore and sealing surface on the crankshaft. 4 Remove the bolts securing the drive- crankshaft seal journal and the lip of the new Minor imperfections can be removed with plate to the crankshaft. A tool is available a seal then carefully tap the new seal into place fine emery cloth. If there is a groove worn in most auto parts stores to hold the driveplate using a hammer and socket. The seal lip is the crankshaft sealing surface (from contact while loosening the bolts, if the tool is not stiff, so carefully work it onto the seal journal with the seal), installing a new seal will proba- available, wedge a screwdriver in the ring of the crankshaft with a smooth object like the bly not stop the leak. gear teeth to jam the driveplate. rounded end of a socket extension as you tap 9 Install the new seal into the retainer 5 Remove the driveplate from the crank- the seal into place (see illustration 16.12). using a socket (or block of wood) and a ham- shaft (see illustration). Don't force it or you may damage the seal. mer. Drive it in until it's flush with the retainer. 6 Clean the driveplate to remove any
    94. Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-19 16.12 Using a rounded object like a socket extension, carefully 17.9a Front engine mount (arrow) - exhaust manifold work the seal onto the crankshaft removed for clarity 10 Apply a 1/8 inch bead of RTV sealant to raised slightly to relieve the weight from the the retainer gasket sealing surface. mounts. 11 Lubricate the lip of the new seal and the 3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely crankshaft sealing surface with a light coat of on jackstands, then position a jack under the clean engine oil. engine oil pan. Place a large wood block 12 Place the seal retainer in position on the between the jack head and the oil pan to pre- 2B engine block and install the mounting bolts. vent oil pan damage, then carefully raise the The seal lip is stiff, so carefully work it onto engine just enough to take the weight off the the seal journal of the crankshaft with a mounts. Warning: DO NOT place any part of smooth object like the rounded end of a your body under the engine when it's sup- socket extension as you tap the seal into ported only by a jack! place (see illustration). Don't force it or you 4 Inspect the mounts to see if the rubber may damage the seal. Tighten the bolts to the is cracked, hardened or separated from the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. metal backing. Sometimes the rubber will 13 Install the oil pan (see Section 13). split right down the center. 14 The remaining installation steps are the 5 Check for relative movement between 17.9b Rear engine mount - exhaust cross- reverse of removal. the mount plates and the engine or frame over pipe removed for clarity (use a large screwdriver or pry bar to attempt to move the mounts). If movement is noted, 17 Engine mounts - check and and support it securely on jackstands. lower the engine and tighten the mount fas- 8 Place a floor jack under the engine (with replacement teners. a wood block between the jack head and oil 6 Rubber preservative may be applied to pan) and raise the engine slightly to relieve the mounts to slow deterioration. 1 Engine mounts seldom require atten- the weight from the mount to be replaced. tion, but broken or deteriorated mounts Note: On 1995 through 1997 models, the should be replaced immediately or the added Replacement lower front engine mount (engine support strain placed on the driveline components Refer to illustrations 17.9a, 17.9b, 17.9c module) is attached to the lower radiator sup- may cause damage or wear. 17.9d and 17.9e port. When removing the engine support 7 Disconnect the negative battery cable module, the radiator and air conditioning con- Check from the ground stud on the left shock tower denser (if equipped) must be supported. 2 During the check, the engine must be (see Chapter 5, Section 1). Raise the vehicle 9 Remove the fasteners and detach the 17.9c Engine support module (arrow) - connects front and rear 17.9d Right-side engine mount (arrow) engine mounts (1995 through 1997 models)
    95. 2B-20 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine mount from the frame and engine (see illus- trations). Caution: Do not disconnect more TRANSMISSION than one mount at a time, except during SUPPORT engine/transaxle removal. ASSEMBLY 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use thread locking compound on the mount bolts and be sure to tighten them securely. 17.9e Transaxle support assembly and brackets LEFT FRAME RAIL GROUND CABLE TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION BRACKET
    96. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures Contents Section Section Balance shafts (2.4L four-cylinder engines only) - removal, Engine rebuilding alternatives ................................................................8 inspection and installation .............................................................. 15 Engine - removal and installation ...........................................................7 Crankshaft inspection.......................................................................... 21 Engine removal - methods and precautions ..........................................6 Crankshaft installation and main bearing oil General information ................................................................................1 clearance check ............................................................................. 25 Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul ...........................................27 Crankshaft removal .............................................................................. 16 Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection .................................. 22 Compression check ...............................................................................4 Piston rings - installation ......................................................................24 Cylinder head - cleaning and inspection ..............................................11 Pistons and connecting rods - inspection ........................................... 20 Cylinder head - disassembly ................................................................10 Pistons and connecting rods - installation and Cylinder head - reassembly................................................................. 13 rod bearing oil clearance check ..................................................... 26 Cylinder honing .................................................................................... 19 Pistons and connecting rods - removal ...............................................14 Engine block - cleaning ........................................................................17 Rear main oil seal - installation.......................................See Chapter 2B Engine block - inspection .....................................................................18 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating .....................3 Engine overhaul - disassembly sequence ............................................. 9 Vacuum gauge diagnostic checks .........................................................5 2C Engine overhaul - general information ................................................... 2 Valves - servicing ................................................................................. 12 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence .............................................23 Specifications Four-cylinder engines General Bore......................................................................................................... 3.4446 to 3.4452 inches Stroke 2.0L .................................................................................................... 3.268 inches 2.4L.................................................................................................... 3.976 inches Displacement 2.0L .................................................................................................... 122 cubic inches 2.4L.................................................................................................... 148 cubic inches Compression ratio 2.0L .................................................................................................... 9.8:1 2.4L.................................................................................................... 9.4:1 Compression pressure ............................................................................ 170 to 225 psi Firing order .............................................................................................. 1-3-4-2 Oil pressure At idle speed ...................................................................................... 4 psi (minimum) At 3000 rpm ........................................................................................ 25 to 80 psi Cylinder head warpage Head gasket surface .......................................................................... 0.004 inch maximum Intake/exhaust manifold mounting surfaces ...................................... 0.006 inch maximum Valves and related components Face angle 2.0L.................................................................................................... 45 to 45-1/2 degrees 2.4L .................................................................................................... 44-1/2 to 45 degrees Seat angle ................................................................................................ 45 degrees Valve margin width 2.0L Intake............................................................................................ 0.0452 to 0.0582 inch Exhaust ......................................................................................... 0.058 to 0.071 inch 2.4L Intake ............................................................................................ 0.050 to 0.063 inch Exhaust......................................................................................... 0.038 to 0.051 inch
    97. 2C-2 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures Four-cylinder engines (continued) Valves and related components Valve spring Out of square limit...................................................................................... 1/16 inch Free length (approximate) 2.0L ........................................................................................................1.747 inches 2.4L .................................................................................. ....................1.905 inches Installed height 2.0L ........................................................................................................1.580 inches 2.4L ........................................................................................................1.496 inches Valve stem diameter Intake ..........................................................................................................0.234 to 0.235 inch Exhaust .......................................................................................................0.233 to 0.234 inch Valve stem-to-guide clearance Intake .......................................................................................................... 0.0018 to 0.0025 inch Exhaust .......................................................................................................0.0029 to 0.0037 inch Valve stem tip-to-spring seat surface height (valve installed - 2.0L only) 1995 and 1996 Intake .....................................................................................................1.891 inches Exhaust..................................................................................................1.889 inches 1997 on Intake .....................................................................................................1.77 to 1.81 inches Exhaust..................................................................................................1.71 to 1.75 inches Crankshaft and connecting rods Crankshaft connecting rod journal Diameter 2.0L ........................................................................................................1.8894 to 1.8900 inches 2.4L........................................................................................................1.967 to 1.9685 inches Taper and Out-of-round limit ......................................................................0.0001 inch (maximum) Connecting rod bearing oil clearance .............................................................. 0.001 to 0.0025 inch Connecting rod endplay (side clearance) .........................................................0.005 to 0.015 inch Crankshaft main bearing journal Diameter 2.0L....................................................................................................... 2.0469 to 2.0475 inches 2.4L....................................................................................................... 2.3610 to 2.3625 inches Taper and out-of-round limits .....................................................................0.0001 inch Crankshaft main bearing oil clearance .............................................................0.008 to 0.0024 inch Crankshaft end play ......................................................................................... 0.0035 to 0.0094 inch Engine block Cylinder bore diameter .................................................................................... 3.4446 to 3.4452 inches Cylinder taper and out-of-round limits .............................................................0.002 inch Pistons and piston rings Piston diameter (nominal)' ............................................................................... 3.4434 to 3.4441 inches Piston-to-bore clearance* 2.0L 1995 .......................................................................................................0.0002 to 0.0015 inch 1996 on................................................................................................. 0.0004 to 0.0017 inch 2.4L ............................................................................................................. 0.0009 to 0.0022 inch Piston ring side clearance 2.0L Both compression rings ........................................................................ 0.0010 to 0.0026 inch Oil ring (pack).........................................................................................0.0002 to 0.0070 inch 2.4L Both compression rings ........................................................................0.0011 to 0.0031 inch Oil ring (pack)........................................................................................ 0.0004 to 0.0070 inch Piston ring end gap 2.0L Number 1 (top) compression ring ..........................................................0.009 to 0.020 inch Number 2 compression ring ..................................................................0.019 to 0.031 inch Oil control ring (side rails)......................................................................0.009 to 0.026 inch 2.4L Number 1 (top) compression ring..........................................................0.0098 to 0.020 inch Number 2 compression ring ..................................................................0.009 to 0.018 inch Oil control ring (side rails) ......................................................................0.0098 to 0.025 inch "Measured 11/16-inch up from the bottom of the piston skirt on 2.0L engines and 9/16-inch up from the bottom of the piston skirt on 2.4L engines.
    98. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-3 Torque specifications** Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Balance shaft carrier-to-engine bolts.............................................................. 40 Balance shaft chain tensioner and guide fasteners .........................................105 in-lbs Balance shaft gear cover stud (double-ended) ................................................105 in-lbs Balance shaft rear cover bolts......................................................................... 105 in-lbs Balance shaft sprocket bolts ........................................................................... 250 in-lbs Main bearing cap assembly bolts 2.0L Main cap bolts (Ml 1) .............................................................................60 Bedplate bolts (M8)............................................................................... 22 2.4L Main cap bolts (M11) Step 1 ............................................................................................... 30 Step 2 .............................................................................................. Tighten an additional 90-degrees (1/4 turn) Bedplate bolts (M8) ............................................................................... 250 in-lbs Connecting rod cap bolts Step 1..........................................................................................................20 Step 2 ......................................................................................................... Tighten an additional 90-degrees (1/4 turn) "Note: Refer to Chapter 2 Part A for additional torque specifications. V6 engine General Bore..................................................................................................................3.29 inches Stroke...............................................................................................................2.992 inches Displacement ................................................................................................... 152 cubic inches (2.5 liters) 2C Firing order .......................................................................................................1-2-3-4-5-6 Compression ratio ............................................................................................9.4:1 Compression pressure..................................................................................... 178 psi @ 250 rpm Oil pressure At idle speed ............................................................................................... 6 psi (minimum) At 3000 rpm................................................................................................ 35 to 75 psi Valves and related components Face angle........................................................................................................45 to 45-1/2 degrees Seat angle ........................................................................................................ 44 to 44-1/2 degrees Valve margin width Intake Standard ................................................................................................0.039 inch Service limit ...........................................................................................0.019 inch Exhaust Standard ................................................................................................0.047 inch Service limit ........................................................................................... 0.028 inch Valve stem diameter ........................................................................................ 0.236 inch Valve stem-to-guide clearance Intake Standard................................................................................................0.0008 to 0.0020 inch Service limit ........................................................................................... 0.004 inch Exhaust Standard................................................................................................ 0.0016 to 0.0028 inch Service limit ........................................................................................... 0.006 inch Valve spring Free length (approximate) ...........................................................................2.01 inches Service limit ........................................................................................... 1.97 inches Installed height ............................................................................................1.74 inches Crankshaft and connecting rods crankshaft connecting rod journal Diameter..................................................................................................... 1.968 to 1.969 inches Out-of-round limit ....................................................................................... 0.001 inch (maximum) Taper limit................................................................................................... 0.0002 inch (maximum) Connecting rod bearing oil clearance 1995 through 1997..................................................................................... 0.0008 to 0.0028 inch 1998 on ....................................................................................................... 0.0006 to 0.0018 inch connecting rod endplay (side clearance) Standard..................................................................................................... 0.004 to 0.010 inch Service limit ................................................................................................ 0.016 inch
    99. 2C-4 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures V6 engine (continued) Crankshaft and connecting rods Crankshaft main bearing journal Diameter .....................................................................................................2.361 to 2.362 inches taper and out-of-round limits ......................................................................0.0001 inch Crankshaft end play Standard .....................................................................................................0.002 to 0.010 inch Service limit ................................................................................................ 0.012 inch Crankshaft main bearing oil clearance Standard .....................................................................................................0.0008 to 0.0016 inch Service limit ................................................................................................ 0.0039 inch Engine block Cylinder bore diameter .................................................................................... 3.29 inches Flatness of top surface .................................................................................... 0.002 inch Service limit ................................................................................................ 0.004 inch Pistons and piston rings Piston diameter (nominal)* ............................................................................... 3.29 inches Piston-to-bore clearance................................................................................. 0.0008 to 0.0016 inch Piston ring side clearance Number 1 (top) compression ring Standard................................................................................................0.0012 to 0.0028 inch Service limit ...........................................................................................0.004 inch Number 2 compression ring Standard................................................................................................0.0007 to 0.0024 inch Service limit ........................................................................................... 0.004 inch Oil control ring .............................................................................................Loose fit Piston ring end gap Number 1 (top) compression ring Standard ................................................................................................0.010 to 0.016 inch Service limit ...........................................................................................0.031 inch Number 2 compression ring Standard................................................................................................0.016 to 0.022 inch Service limit ...........................................................................................0.031 inch Oil control ring (side rails) Standard ................................................................................................0.006 to 0.019 inch Service limit ...........................................................................................0.039 inch *Measured 0.080 inch up from the bottom of the piston skirt. Torque specifications** Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Main bearing cap bolts .................................................................................... 69 Connecting rod cap nuts................................................................................. 38 **Note: Refer to Part B of this Chapter for additional torque specifications. and overhaul procedures which follow. Refer tion that piston rings, valve seals andlor valve 1 General information to Part A or B for additional Specifications as guides are in need of attention. Make sure applicable. that oil leaks aren't responsible before decid- Included in this portion of Chapter 2 are ing that the rings andlor guides are bad. Per- the general overhaul procedures for the cylin- form a compression check to determine the der head and internal engine components. 2 Engine overhaul - general extent of the work required (see Section 4). The information ranges from advice concern- information Check the oil pressure with a gauge ing preparation for an overhaul and the pur- installed in place of the oil pressure sending chase of replacement parts to detailed, step- Refer to illustration 2.4 unit, located above the oil filter (see illustra- by-step procedures covering removal and It's not always easy to determine when, or tion), and compare the pressure to the pres- installation of internal engine components if, an engine should be completely overhauled, sure listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If and the inspection of parts. as a number of factors must be considered. it's extremely low, the bearings andlor oil The following Sections have been written High mileage is not necessarily an indi- pump are probably worn out. based on the assumption that the engine has cation that an overhaul is needed, while low Loss of power, rough running, knocking been removed from the vehicle. For informa- mileage doesn't preclude the need for an or metallic engine noises, excessive valve tion concerning in-vehicle engine repair, as overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably train noise and high fuel consumption rates well as removal and installation of the external the most important consideration. An engine may also point to the need for an overhaul, components necessary for the overhaul, see that's had regular and frequent oil and filter especially if they're all present at the same the applicable Part of this Chapter. For infor- changes, as well as other required mainte- ti me. If a complete tune-up doesn't remedy mation on determining models and engine nance, will most likely give many thousands the situation, major mechanical work is the numbers, refer to the Vehicle Identification of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a only solution. Numbers at the beginning of this manual. neglected engine may require an overhaul An engine overhaul involves restoring The Specifications included in this Part very early in its life. the internal parts to the specifications of a are only those necessary for the inspection Excessive oil consumption is an indica- new engine. During an overhaul, the piston
    100. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-5 automotive machine shop. Since the block's spark plug hole. Place the gauge dial where condition will be the major factor to consider you can see it while turning the crankshaft when determining whether to overhaul the damperlpulley bolt. Note: On 4 cylinder original engine or buy a rebuilt one, never engines the number 1 cylinder is located at purchase parts or have machine work done the front (drivebelt end) of the engine. on other components until the block has been 8 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time see compression building up on the gauge - is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does- indicating you are on the compression stroke. n't pay to install worn or sub-standard parts. 9 On 2.0L engines, remove the access As a final note, to ensure maximum life hole plug on the timing belt cover (see illus- and minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, tration). Slowly turn the crankshaft until the everything must be assembled with care in a camshaft sprocket timing mark is visible spotlessly clean environment. through the access hole. Using a flashlight, look inside the access hole to locate the camshaft timing mark on the timing belt rear 3 Top Dead Center (TDC) for cover. Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise as required until the timing mark on the number one piston - locating camshaft sprocket aligns with the arrow on the timing belt rear cover. The crankshaft is 2.4 The engine oil pressure sending unit Note: The crankshaft timing marks on these now located at number 1 piston TDC on the is located above the oil filter (V6 engine engines aren't visible until after the timing belt compression stroke. Note: If you turn the shown, four-cylinder engine similar) cover(s) have been removed. crankshaft too far, it will be necessary to 1 Top Dead Center (TDC) is the highest rotate the crankshaft clockwise 1-3/4 turns to rings are replaced and the cylinder walls are point in the cylinder that each piston reaches approach the compression stroke again. reconditioned (rebored andlor honed). If a re- as it travels up-and-down when the 10 On 2.4L engines, remove the timing belt crankshaft rotates. Each piston reaches TDC upper cover (see Chapter 2A, Section 6). bore is done by an automotive machine shop, new oversize pistons will also be installed. on the compression stroke and again on the Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the The main bearings, connecting rod bearings exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned the piston position on the compression (see illustration 6.9b in Chapter 2 Part A). and camshaft bearings are generally replaced 2C stroke. The cast-in timing mark on the with new ones and, if necessary, the The crankshaft is now located at number 1 crankshaft may be reground to restore the crankshaft timing belt sprocket installed on piston TDC on the compression stroke. Note: the front of the crankshaft is referenced to If you turn the crankshaft too far, it will be journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as well, since they're usually in less-than-perfect the number 1 piston. When the mark on the necessary to rotate the crankshaft clockwise condition at this point. While the engine is crankshaft timing belt sprocket is aligned approximately 1-3/4 turns to approach the with the cast-in timing mark on the oil pump being overhauled, other components, such compression stroke again. housing and the timing marks on the as the distributor, starter and alternator, can 11 After the number 1 piston has been posi- be rebuilt as well. The end result should be a camshaft sprockets align with their respec- tioned at TDC on the compression stroke, li ke-new engine that will give many trouble tive marks (see Section 6 of the appropriate TDC for the remaining pistons can be located Part of this Chapter), the number 1 piston is by turning the crankshaft exactly 180 degrees free miles. Note: Critical cooling system com- at TDC on the compression stroke. ponents such as the hoses, drivebelts, ther- (1/2 turn) from that position, following the 2 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the mostat and water pump MUST be replaced spark plug firing order; i.e. the first 180 degree crankshaft must be rotated manually. When rotation from number 1 piston TDC will bring with new parts when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully to looking at the front of the engine (drivebelt the number 3 cylinder piston to TDC on it's end), normal crankshaft rotation is clockwise. compression stroke, another 180 degree rota- ensure that it isn't clogged or leaking (see DO NOT rotate the engine counterclockwise Chapter 3). Also, we don't recommend over- tion will bring the number 4 cylinder piston to as the crankshaft timing belt sprocket may TDC on it's compression stroke, etc. hauling the oil pump - always install a new one when an engine is rebuilt. jump a tooth, requiring timing belt removal. 3 The preferred method is to turn the Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire procedure to familiar- crankshaft with a large socket and breaker bar ize yourself with the scope and requirements attached to the crankshaft damperlpulley bolt that is threaded into the front of the crankshaft. of the job. Overhauling an engine isn't diffi- cult, but it is time consuming. Plan on the 4 Remove all (accessible) spark plugs as this will make it easier to rotate the engine by vehicle being tied up for a minimum of two hand (see Chapter 1 if necessary). Note: On weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an automotive machine shop for repair or recon- V6 engines, the spark plugs for cylinders 1, 3 ditioning. Check on availability of parts and and 5 are located under the upper intake make sure that any necessary special tools manifold and not easily accessible. Unless and equipment are obtained in advance. they are required to be removed, depending on what procedure you are performing, leave Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a number of precision mea- them installed. 5 Disconnect the battery cable from the suring tools are required for inspecting parts to determine if they must be replaced. Often remote negative battery terminal. an automotive machine shop will handle the 6 Remove the accessory drivebelt splash shield (see Chapter 1) to gain access to the inspection of parts and offer advice concern- ing reconditioning and replacement. Note: crankshaft damperlpulley bolt. Always wait until the engine has been com- pletely disassembled and all components, Four-cylinder engines 3.9 2.0L four-cylinder models have an especially the engine block, have been Refer to illustration 3.9 access hole in the front timing belt cover inspected before deciding what service and 7 Install a compression gauge (screw-in so you can see the camshaft timing marks repair operations must be performed by an type with a hose) in the number 1 cylinder without removing the cover
    101. 2C-6 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 4 Block the throttle wide open. burned valves, weak valve springs, improper V6 engine ignition or valve timing and ignition problems. 5 Disable the ignition by disconnecting the Note: This method assumes that the upper 2 Unfortunately, vacuum gauge readings primary (low voltage) wire electrical connec- intake manifold is installed, making the num- are easy to misinterpret, so they should be tor from the ignition coil pack (four-cylinder ber 1 spark plug inaccessible. used in conjunction with other tests to con- engines) or the disconnecting the 2 pin con- 12 Install a compression gauge (screw-in firm the diagnosis. nector from the distributor (V6 engine) (see type with a hose) in the number 6 cylinder Chapter 5). 3 Both the absolute readings and the rate spark plug hole. Place the gauge dial where of needle movement are important for accu- 6 Install the compression gauge in the you can see it while turning the crankshaft rate interpretation. Most gauges measure number one spark plug hole. damperlpulley bolt. Note: The number six vacuum in inches of mercury (in-Hg). The fol- 7 Crank the engine over at least seven cylinder is located at the rear (transaxle end) lowing references to vacuum assume the compression strokes and watch the gauge. of the left cylinder bank (refer to the Specifi- diagnosis is being performed at sea level. As The compression should build up quickly in a cations in Chapter 1, if necessary). elevation increases (or atmospheric pressure healthy engine. Low compression on the first 13 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you stroke, followed by gradually increasing pres- decreases), the reading will decrease. For see compression building up on the gauge - every 1,000 foot increase in elevation above sure on successive strokes, indicates worn indicating you are on the compression stroke. approximately 2000 feet, the gauge readings piston rings. A low compression reading on 14 Remove the upper left timing belt cover will decrease about one inch of mercury. the first stroke, which doesn't build up during (see illustration 6.6 in Chapter 2 Part B). Connect the vacuum gauge directly to successive strokes, indicates leaking valves 4 Note: If the number 6 piston is near TDC, the intake manifold vacuum, not to ported (throt- or a blown head gasket (a cracked head camshaft timing mark should be approxi- tle-body) vacuum. Be sure no hoses are left could also be the cause). Deposits on the mately 60 degrees counterclockwise of the disconnected during the test or false read- undersides of the valve heads can also cause timing mark on the valve cover. ings will result. low compression. Record the highest gauge 15 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the 5 Before you begin the test, allow the reading obtained. ti ming mark on the left camshaft sprocket Repeat the procedure for the remaining engine to warm up completely. Block the 8 li nes up with the timing mark on the valve wheels and set the parking brake. With the cylinders and compare the results to the cover (see illustration 6.11a in Chapter 2 transmission in neutral (or Park, on automat- Specifications in this Chapter. Part B). The crankshaft is now located at Add some engine oil (about three squirts ics), start the engine and allow it to run at 9 number 1 piston TDC on the compression from a plunger-type oil can) to each cylinder, normal idle speed. Warning: Carefully stroke. Note: If you turn the crankshaft too far, inspect the fan blades for cracks or damage through the spark plug hole, and repeat the it will be necessary to rotate the crankshaft before starting the engine. Keep your hands test recording the results. clockwise approximately 1-3/4 turns to and the vacuum tester clear of the fan and do 10 If the compression increases after the oil approach the compression stroke again. not stand in front of the vehicle or in line with is added, the piston rings are definitely worn. 16 After the number 1 piston has been posi- the fans when the engine is running. If the compression doesn't increase signifi- tioned at TDC on the compression stroke, Read the vacuum gauge; an average, cantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves 6 TDC for the remaining pistons can be located healthy engine should normally produce or head gasket. Leakage past the valves may by turning the crankshaft exactly 120 degrees about 17 to 22 inches of vacuum with a fairly be caused by burned valve seat(s), andlor from that position, following the spark plug fir- steady needle. Refer to the following vacuum faces or warped, cracked or bent valve(s). ing order; i.e. the first 120 degree rotation gauge readings and what they indicate about 11 If two adjacent cylinders have equally from number 1 piston TDC will bring the num- the engines condition (see illustration). low compression, there's a strong possibility ber 2 cylinder piston to TDC on it's compres- A low steady reading usually indicates a that the head gasket between them is blown. 7 sion stroke, another 120 degree rotation will leaking gasket between the intake manifold The appearance of coolant in the combustion bring the number 3 cylinder piston to TDC on and throttle body, a leaky vacuum hose, late chambers or the crankcase would verify this it's compression stroke, etc. ignition timing or incorrect camshaft timing. condition. 12 If one cylinder is 20 percent lower than Check ignition timing with a timing light and the others, and the engine has a slightly eliminate all other possible causes, utilizing 4 Compression check rough idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the the tests provided in this Chapter before you camshaft could be the cause. remove the timing belt cover to check the Note: On V6 engines it is necessary to 13 If the compression is unusually high, the ti ming marks. remove the upper intake manifold to access combustion chambers are probably coated 8 If the reading is 3 to 8 inches below nor- the right bank of spark plugs, refer to Part B with carbon deposits. If that's the case, the mal and it fluctuates at that low reading, sus- of this Chapter. cylinder head should be removed and de- pect an intake manifold gasket leak at an 1 A compression check will tell you the carbonized. intake port or a faulty injector. mechanical condition of the upper end (pis- 14 If compression is way down or varies 9 If the needle has regular drops of about 2 tons, rings, valves, head gasket) of your greatly between cylinders, it would be a good to 4 inches at a steady rate the valves are engine. Specifically, it can tell you if the com- idea to have a leak-down test performed by probably leaking. Perform a compression or pression is low due to leakage caused by an automotive repair shop. This test will pin- leak-down test to confirm this. worn piston rings, defective valves and seats point exactly where the leakage is occurring 10 An irregular drop or down-flick of the or a blown head gasket. Note: The engine and determine how severe it is. needle can be caused by a sticking valve or must be at normal operating temperature and an ignition misfire. Perform a compression or the -battery must be fully charged for this leak-down test. Check the condition of the check to be accurate. 5 Vacuum gauge diagnostic spark plugs and compare them to the chart 2 Begin by cleaning the area around the on the back cover of this manual. checks spark plugs before you remove them (com- 11 A rapid vibration of about 4 in-Hg vibra- pressed air should be used, if available, oth- tion at idle combined with exhaust smoke Refer to illustration 5.6 indicates worn valve guides. Perform a leak- erwise a small brush or even a bicycle tire pump will work). The idea is to prevent dirt 1 A vacuum gauge provides valuable down test to confirm this. If the rapid vibra- from getting into the cylinders as the com- information about what is going on in the tion occurs with an increase in engine speed, pression check is being performed. engine at a low-cost. You can check for worn check for a leaking intake manifold gasket or Remove all of the spark plugs from the rings or cylinder walls, leaking head or intake head gasket, weak valve springs, burned 3 engine (Chapter 1). manifold gaskets, restricted exhaust, stuck or valves or ignition misfire.
    102. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-7 arrange for it in advance and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you time and money. Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for quite a while. A machine shop will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer can't accomplish without special equipment. These shops often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to Low , steady reading consult them before removing the engine in Low, fluctuating needle Regular drops order to accurately estimate the amount of ti me required to rebuild or repair components that may need work. Always be extremely careful when remov- ing and installing the engine. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take your time and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully. Irregular drops Rapid vibration 7 Engine - removal and installation Note 1: Read through the entire Section before beginning this procedure. The engine and transaxle are removed from the vehicle as an assembly and separated once outside of the vehicle. Note 2: The engineltransaxle assembly is designed to be removed from the underside 2C of the vehicle. This manual assumes that the do-it-yourselfer is performing the job at home and is removing the engine without the use of 5.6 Typical vacuum gauge diagnostic readings a vehicle lift. Warning: These models have airbags. Always disable the airbag system and wait 2 minutes 12 A slight fluctuation, say 1 inch up-and- Locating a suitable place to work is before working in the vicinity of the impact down, may mean ignition problems. Check all extremely important. Adequate work space, sensors, steering column or instrument panel the usual tune-up items and, if necessary, run along with storage space for the vehicle, will to avoid the possibility of accidental deploy- the engine on an ignition system analyzer. be needed. If a shop or garage isn't available, ment of the airbags, which could cause per- 13 If there is a large fluctuation, perform a at the very least a flat, level, clean work sur- sonal injury (see Chapter 12). compression or leak-down test to look for a face made of concrete or asphalt is required. weak or dead cylinder or a blown head gasket. Cleaning the engine compartment and Removal 14 If the needle moves slowly through a engine before beginning the removal proce- Refer to illustration 7.10 wide range, check for a clogged PCV system, dure will help keep tools clean and organized. 1 If the vehicle is equipped with air condi- inoperative or clogged fuel injectors), throttle An engine hoist or A-frame will also be tioning, have the system discharged by a body or intake manifold gasket or vacuum necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated dealer service department or automotive air hose leaks. in excess of the combined weight of the conditioning service facility. 15 Check for a slow return after revving the engine and accessories. Safety is of primary 2 Place protective covers on the front engine by quickly snapping the throttle open importance, considering the potential hazards fenders and cowl. Special fender covers are until the engine reaches about 2,500 rpm and involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle. available, but an old bedspread or blanket let it shut. Normally the reading should drop If the engine is being removed by a will also work. to near zero, rise above normal idle reading novice, a helper should be available. Advice 3 Remove the hood (see Chapter 11). (about 5 in-Hg over) and then return to the and aid from someone more experienced 4 Perform the fuel system pressure relief previous idle reading. If the vacuum returns would also be helpful. There are many procedure (see Chapter 4). slowly and doesn't peak when the throttle is instances when one person cannot simulta- 5 Disconnect the negative battery cable snapped shut, the rings may be worn. If there neously perform all of the operations required from the ground stud on the left shock tower is a long delay, look for a restricted exhaust when lifting the engine out of the vehicle. (see Chapter 5, Section 1). system (often the muffler or catalytic con- Plan the operation ahead of time. 6 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see verter). An easy way to check this is to tem- Arrange for, or obtain all of the tools and Chapter 4). porarily disconnect the exhaust ahead of the equipment you'll need prior to beginning the 7 Raise the vehicle and support it securely suspected part and repeat the test. job. Some of the equipment necessary to per- on jackstands. Drain the cooling system, form engine removal and installation safely engine oil and transaxle fluid (see Chapter 1). and with relative ease are (in addition to an 8 Remove the engine cooling fans, radia- 6 Engine removal - methods and engine hoist) a heavy duty floor jack, complete tor and air conditioning condenser unit Of precautions sets of wrenches and sockets as described in equipped) (see Chapter 3). the front of this manual, wooden blocks and 9 Remove the front bumper fascia and If you've decided that an engine must be plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mop- reinforcement bar (see Chapter 11). removed for overhaul or major repair work, ping up spilled oil, coolant and gasoline. If the 10 Carefully label, then disconnect all vac- several preliminary steps should be taken. hoist must be rented, make sure that you uum lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wire
    103. 2C-8 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures tube connecting the exhaust manifolds (see seal. Chapter 2B). 40 Carefully mate the transaxle to the 22 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1). engine following the procedure outlined in 23 If equipped, remove the air conditioning Chapter 7. Caution: Do not use the bolts to compressor (see Chapter 3). force the engine and transaxle into alignment. 24 Detach the power steering pump, reser- It may crack or damage major components. voir and the power steering lines (mounted to 41 Install the transaxle-to-engine bolts and the rear cylinder head) from the brackets tighten them to the torque listed in the Speci- without disconnecting the hoses and position fications of Chapter 7. them out of the way. 42 Attach the hoist to the engine and care- 25 Remove the through-bolt from the rear fully lower the engineltransaxle assembly into engine mount (refer to the appropriate Part of the vehicle. Chapter 2). 43 Install the engineltransaxle mount bolts 26 Disconnect the ground straps from the and tighten them securely. engine. 44 The remaining installation steps are the 27 Lower the vehicle. reverse of removal. 7.10 Label both ends of each wire or 28 Attach a chain or an engine lifting fixture 45 After lowering the vehicle, add coolant, vacuum connection before to the engine lifting brackets (or to bolts engine oil, power steering and transmission separating them which are securely mounted in the cast iron fluid/lubricant as needed (see Chapter 1). block or accessory mounting bracket) and 46 Run the engine and check for proper harness connectors and brackets connected attach the hoist. Take up the slack until there operation and leaks. Shut off the engine and to the engine. Masking tape and felt-tip pens is tension on the chain to support the recheck the fluid levels. Note: If the engine work well for marking items (see illustration). engineltransaxle assembly. Warning: Attach- has just been rebuilt, see Section 27 for If necessary, take instant photos or sketch ing the engine lifting chain to a bolt or stud break-in procedures. the locations to ensure correct location at located in an aluminum component (such as installation. the cylinder head) may not provide the neces- 11 Detach the Powertrain Control Module sary strength to support the weight of the 8 Engine rebuilding alternatives (PCM), Power Distribution Center (PDC) and engineltransaxle assembly during removal. Transmission Control Module (TCM) (if 29 Support the transaxle with a floor jack. The do-it-yourselfer is faced with a num- equipped) from their mountings and position Place a block of wood on the jack pad to pro- ber of options when performing an engine them out of the way. Caution: The PCM and tect the transaxle. Warning: Do not place any overhaul. The decision to replace the engine TCM are Electro-Static Discharge (ESD) sen- part of your body under the engineltransaxle block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and sitive electronic devices, meaning a static dis- when it's supported only by a hoist or other crankshaft depends on a number of factors, charge from your body could possibly dam- lifting device. with the number one consideration being the age internal electrical components. Make 30 Remove the mount through-bolts on all condition of the block. Other considerations sure to properly ground yourself and the con- of the engine or transaxle mounts (refer to the are cost, access to machine shop facilities, trol modules before handling them. Avoid appropriate Part of Chapter 2). parts availability, time required to complete touching the electrical terminals unless abso - 31 Confirm that all of the cables, hoses, the project and the extent of prior mechanical lutely necessary. wires and other items are disconnected from experience on the part of the do-it-yourselfer. 12 Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel the engineltransaxle. Some of the rebuilding alternatives injection system (see Chapter 4). Cap the fit- 32 Carefully push the transaxle down, or include: tings to prevent leakage and contamination. adjust the engine lifting fixture to position the Individual parts - If the inspection pro- 13 Detach the accelerator cable and cruise engine slightly higher than the transaxle, cedures reveal that the engine block and control cable (if equipped) (see Chapter 4). while lifting the engine up to clear obstruc- most engine components are in reusable 14 If equipped, remove the oil pan-to- tions. condition, purchasing individual parts may be transaxle structural collar (see Chapter 2A). 33 Lift the engine and transaxle high the most economical alternative. The block, 15 On manual transaxle equipped models, enough to clear the front of the vehicle and crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assem- detach the shift cables (see Chapter 7A) and slowly move the hoist away. blies should all be inspected carefully. Even if the clutch release cable (see Chapter 8). 34 Lower the hoist and set the transaxle on the block shows little wear, the cylinder bores 16 On automatic transaxle equipped vehi- blocks - leave the hoist hooked to the engine. should be surface honed. cles, detach the shift control cable and oil 35 With the transaxle securely supported, Short block - A short block' consists of cooler lines from the transaxle (see Chap- remove the transaxle-to-engine bolts and an engine block with a crankshaft and pis- ter 7B). After removing the oil cooler lines, separate the engine from the transaxle (refer ton/connecting rod assemblies already plug the ends to prevent leakage and con- to Chapter 7 if necessary). installed. All new bearings are incorporated tamination. 36 Remove the driveplate (refer to the and all clearances will be correct. The exist- 17 Clearly label and disconnect all electri- appropriate Part of Chapter 2) and then ing camshaft, valve train components, cylin- cal connections and ground straps (where remove the engine rear plate. Mount the der head(s) and external parts can be bolted applicable) from the transaxle. engine on an engine stand. to the short block with little or no machine 18 Remove the driveaxles from the shop work necessary. transaxle (see Chapter 8). Stuff clean rags Installation Long block - A long block consists of a into the transaxle openings to prevent leak- 37 Before installing the engine assembly, short block plus an oil pump, oil pan, cylinder age and contamination. inspect the engineltransaxle mounts. If head, rocker arm cover, camshaft(s) and 19 Remove the bellhousing lower cover, they're worn or damaged, replace them. valve train components, timing sprockets and match-mark the torque converter or modular 38 On manual transaxle equipped models, ti ming covers. All components are installed clutch assembly (as applicable) to the drive- inspect the modular clutch assembly (see with new bearings, seals and gaskets incor- plate and remove the four bolts (refer to the Chapter 8) and apply a very small amount of porated throughout. The installation of mani- appropriate Part of Chapter 7). high temperature grease to the transaxle folds and external parts is all that's neces- 20 Disconnect the exhaust system from the input shaft splines. sary. exhaust manifold (see Chapter 4). 39 On automatic transaxle equipped vehi- Give careful thought to which alternative 21 On V6 models, remove the cross-over cles, inspect the torque converter/input shaft is best for you and discuss the situation with
    104. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-9 local automotive machine shops, auto parts PISTON AND SEAL dealers and experienced rebuilders before CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY ordering or purchasing replacement parts. CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS 9 Engine overhaul - disassembly sequence Refer to illustrations 9.5a, 9.5b and 9.5c 1 It's much easier to disassemble and work on the engine if it's mounted on a portable engine stand. A stand can often be OIL PASSAGE rented quite cheaply from an equipment 0-RING rental yard. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the driveplate must be removed from the engine. SEAL 2 If a stand isn't available, it's possible to disassemble the engine with it blocked up on UPPER the floor. Be extra careful not to tip or drop BEARING NIPPLE (GROOVED) the engine when working without a stand. OIL FILTER 3 If you're going to obtain a rebuilt engine, ADAPTER all external components must be removed 9.5a Engine block components - 2.0L four-cylinder from the old engine first, to be transferred to the replacement engine, just as they will if you're doing a complete engine overhaul yourself. These include but are not limited too: Air conditioning compressor and brackets 2C Alternator and brackets Coil pack or distributor, spark plug wires and spark plugs Driveplate Electronic engine control components Emissions control components Engine mounts Fuel injection components Intake and exhaust manifolds Oil filter (and adapter if equipped) Power steering pump and brackets Thermostat cover, thermostat and housing Water pump Note: When removing the external compo- nents from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important dur- ing installation. Note the installed position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins, brackets, wash- ers, bolts and other small items. 4 If you're obtaining a short block, which consists of the engine block, crankshaft, pis- tons and connecting rods all assembled, then the cylinder head, oil pan and oil pump will have to be removed as well. See Engine rebuilding alternatives for additional informa- tion regarding the different possibilities to be considered. 5 If you're planning a complete overhaul, the engine must be disassembled and the internal components removed in the general following order (see illustrations): Intake and exhaust manifolds Valve cover Rocker arms and shafts (SOHC engine) Timing belt covers Timing belt and sprockets Camshaft(s) Rocker arms and hydraulic lash 9.5b Engine block components - 2.4L four-cylinder adjusters (DOHC engines)
    105. 2C-10 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures Water pump Cylinder head(s) Oil pan and oil pickup tube Oil pump Balance shaft carrier (2.4L four-cylinder engine) Piston/connecting rod assemblies Crankshaft 6 Before beginning the disassembly and overhaul procedures, make sure the following items are available. Also, refer to Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence for a li st of tools and materials needed for engine reassembly. Common hand tools Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags for storing parts Gasket scraper Ridge reamer Micrometers Telescoping gauges Dial indicator set Valve spring compressor Cylinder surfacing hone Piston ring groove cleaning tool Electric drill motor Tap and die set Wire brushes Oil gallery brushes Cleaning solvent 10 Cylinder head - disassembly Refer to illustrations 10.2, 10.3, 10.4a, 10.4b and 10.4c 9.5c Engine block components - V6 engine Note: New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available for most engines at deal- erships and auto parts stores. Due to the fact that some specialized tools are necessary for 1 Cylinder head disassembly involves the parts or store them separately so they the disassembly and inspection procedures, removal of the intake and exhaust valves and can be reinstalled in their original locations. and replacement parts may not be readily related components. If they're still in place, 2 Before the valves are removed, arrange available, it may be more practical and eco- remove the rocker arm shafts and camshaft, to label and store them, along with their nomical for the home mechanic to purchase a on the SOHC engine (refer to the appropriate related components, so they can be kept replacement head rather than taking the time Part of Chapter 2) or the bearing caps, separate and reinstalled in the same valve to disassemble, inspect and recondition the camshafts, rocker arms and lash adjusters, guides they are removed from (see illustra- original. on the DOHC engine (see Chapter 2A). Label tion). 10.3 After compressing the valve spring, use a magnet (shown) or needle-nose pliers to extract the valve keepers - a valve spring 10.2 A small plastic bag with an appropriate label can be used to compressor adapter, such as the one shown, will be needed to store the valvetrain components so they don't get mixed up compress the valve spring on this type of cylinder head
    106. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-11 the threaded holes to remove corrosion and thread sealant that may be present. If com- pressed air is available, use it to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation. Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! 6 Clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the drying process and ensure that all holes and recessed areas are clean. Note: Decar- bonizing chemicals are available and may prove very useful when cleaning cylinder heads and valve train components. They are very caustic and should be used with caution. Be sure to follow the instructions on the con- tainer. 7 Clean the rocker arms hydraulic lash adjusters, spacers and shafts with solvent. 10.4a Remove the valve from the 10.4b . . . then use pliers to remove the Note: The lash adjusters and rocker arms on cylinder head .. . valve stem seal from the valve guide SOHC engines are precision assemblies, be careful not to mix-up parts when cleaning. Dry all parts thoroughly (don't mix them up during 3 Compress the springs on the first valve 11 Cylinder head - cleaning and with a spring compressor and remove the the cleaning process). Compressed air will inspection speed the drying process and can be used to keepers (see illustration). Carefully release clean out the oil passages. Warning: Wear the valve spring compressor and remove the retainer and the spring. 1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head eye protection when using compressed air! and related valvetrain components, followed 8 Clean all the valve springs, spring seats, 4 Pull the valve out of the head, then by a detailed inspection, will enable you to keepers and retainers with solvent and dry remove the valve stem seal with pliers and withdraw spring seat from the guide (see decide how much valve service work must be them thoroughly. Clean the components one 2C performed during the engine overhaul. Note: valve at a time to avoid mixing up the parts. illustrations). Note: On the four-cylinder If the engine was severely overheated, the 9 Scrape off any heavy deposits that may engines the valve stem seal and spring seat are an assembly. If the valve binds in the cylinder head is probably warped. have formed on the valves, then use a motor- ized wire brush to remove deposits from the guide (won't pull through), push it back into the head and deburr the area around the Cleaning valve heads and stems. Warning: Wear eye keeper groove and step tip with a fine file or 2 Scrape all traces of old gasket material protection when using a motorized wire whetstone (see illustration). and sealing compound off the head gasket, brush! Again, make sure the valves don't get mixed up. 5 Repeat the procedure for the remaining intake manifold and exhaust manifold sealing valves. Remember to keep all the parts for surfaces. Caution: The cylinder head is alu- each valve together so they can be rein- minum, be very careful not to gouge the seal- Inspection stalled in the same locations. ing surfaces. Special gasket removal solvents Note: Be sure to perform all of the following 6 Once the valves and related compo- that soften gaskets and make removal much inspection procedures before concluding that nents have been removed and stored in an easier are available at auto parts stores. machine shop work is required. Make a list of organized manner, the head should be thor- 3 Remove all built-up scale from the the items that need attention. oughly cleaned and inspected. If a complete coolant passages. engine overhaul is being performed, finish the 4 Run a stiff wire brush through the vari- Cylinder head engine disassembly procedures before ous holes to remove deposits that may have Refer to illustrations 11.10, 11.11 and 11.13 beginning the cylinder head cleaning and formed in them. 10 Inspect the head very carefully for inspection process. 5 Run an appropriate size tap into each of cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and 10.4c If the valve stem won't pass through the guide, chances are its because of a burr or raised material on the end of the valve 11.10 Inspect the cylinder head internal passages for cracks or stem. Use a fine file or whetstone to deburr the valve other defects stem as required
    107. 2C-12 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 11.11 Measure the cylinder head gasket surface(s) flatness and 11.13 Checking valve stem-to-guide clearance - remember to compare to the limits listed in this Chapter's Specifications divide the measurement by 2 to obtain the correct dimension VALVE STEM TIP 11.16 Measure the valve margin of each valve 11.17 Measuring the valve spring free length 11.15 Carefully inspect the areas indicated for wear or damage doubt regarding the condition of the valve guides they should be checked by an auto- motive machine shop (the cost should be other damage (see illustration). If cracks are minimal). found, check with an automotive machine shop concerning repair. If repair isn't possi- Valves ble, a new cylinder head must be obtained. Refer to illustrations 11.15 and 11.16 11 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, 15 Carefully inspect each valve face for check the head gasket mating surface (see uneven wear, deformation, cracks, pits and illustration). Check the intake and exhaust burned areas (see illustration). Check the manifold surfaces on the cylinder head also. valve stem for scuffing and galling and the If the warpage on any of the surfaces neck for cracks. Rotate the valve and check exceeds the limits listed in this Chapter's for any obvious indication that it's bent. Look Specifications, they can be resurfaced at an for pits and excessive wear on the end of the automotive machine shop. stem. The presence of any of these condi- 12 Examine the valve seats in each of the tions indicates the need for valve service by combustion chambers. If they're pitted, an automotive machine shop. cracked or burned, the head will require valve 16 Measure the margin width on each valve 11.18 Check each valve spring service that's beyond the scope of the home (see illustration). Any valve with a margin for squareness mechanic. narrower than listed in this Chapter's Specifi- 13 Check the valve stem-to-guide clear- cations will have to be replaced. ance, using a clamping dial indicator base sion of all springs should be checked with a attached securely to the head, by measuring Valve components special fixture before deciding that they're the lateral movement of the valve stem inside Refer to illustrations 11.17 and 11.18 suitable for use in a rebuilt engine (take the the valve guide (see illustration). The valve 17 Check each valve spring for wear (on springs to an automotive machine shop for must be in the guide and approximately 1/16- the ends) and pits. Measure the free length this check). inch off the seat. The total valve stem move- (see illustration) and compare it to the value 18 Stand each spring on a flat surface and ment indicated by the gauge needle must be li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. Any check it for squareness (see illustration). If divided by two to obtain the actual clearance. springs that are shorter than specified have any of the springs are distorted or sagged, 14 After this is done, if there's still some sagged and should not be reused. The ten - replace all of them with new parts.
    108. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-13 13.4a On four-cylinder models, the valve seal and spring seat are an assembly 13.4b Install the valve stem seal using an appropriate size socket and hammer 19 Check the spring retainers and keepers for obvious wear and cracks. Any question- able parts should be replaced with new ones, as extensive damage will occur if they fail during engine operation. Rocker arm components 20 Refer to the appropriate Part of Chapter 2 for the rocker arm and hydraulic lash adjusters inspection procedures. 2C 21 Any damaged or excessively worn parts must be replaced with new ones. 22 If the inspection process indicates that the valve components are in generally poor condition and worn beyond the limits speci- fied, which is usually the case in an engine that's being overhauled, reassemble the valves in the cylinder head and refer to Sec- 13.6a Install the spring over the valve 13.6b . . . and place the retainer onto tion 12 for valve servicing recommendations. guide and onto the seat .. . the spring it's warped. illustration 13.9 Dimension "A"). If the 12 Valves - servicing 4 After the valve job has been performed dimension is greater than the tolerance listed by a professional, the head will be in like-new in this Chapter's Specifications, grind the 1 Because of the complex nature of the condition. When the head is returned, be sure valve stem as required to achieve the correct job and the special tools and equipment to clean it again before installing it on the dimension. needed, servicing of the valves, the valve engine to remove any metal particles and 4 Install the spring seats and new valve seats and the valve guides, commonly known abrasive grit that may still be present from stem seals (V6 engines) or the new valve as a valve job, should be performed by an the valve service or head resurfacing opera- seal/spring seat assembly (four-cylinder experienced professional. tions (which happens frequently). Use com- engines) onto each of the valve guides (see 2 The home mechanic can remove and pressed air, if available, to blow out all the oil illustration). Note: On V6 engines, install the disassemble the head, do the initial cleaning holes and passages. silver colored valve stem seals onto the intake and inspection, then reassemble and deliver valve guides and the black colored valve stem it to a dealer service department or an auto- seals onto the exhaust valve guides. Using a motive machine shop for the actual service 13 Cylinder head - reassembly hammer and a deep socket or seal installa- work. Doing the inspection will enable you to tion tool, gently tap each valve stem see what condition the head and valvetrain seal/spring seat assembly into place until it's Refer to illustrations 13.4a, 13.4b, 13.6a, components are in and will ensure that you completely seated on the guide (see illustra- 13.6b, 13.7 and 13.9 know what work and new parts are required tion). Don't twist or cock the seals during when dealing with an automotive machine 1 Regardless of whether or not the head installation or they won't seal properly on the shop. was sent to an automotive repair shop for valve stems. 3 The dealer service department, or auto- valve servicing, make sure it's clean before Beginning at one end of the head, apply 5 motive machine shop, will remove the valves beginning reassembly. moly-based grease or clean engine oil to the and springs, recondition or replace the valves 2 If the head was sent out for valve servic- valve stem and install the first valve. and valve seats, recondition the valve guides, ing, the valves and related components will 6 Install spring over the valve guide and check and replace the valve springs, spring already be in place. Begin the reassembly set the spring and retainer in place (see illus- retainers and keepers (as necessary), replace procedure with Step 8. trations). Note: On V6 engines, install the the valve seals with new ones, reassemble 3 If the valve faces or seats have been valve springs with the enameled end up. the valve components and make sure the ground on a 2.0L four-cylinder engine, mea- 7 Compress the spring with a valve spring installed spring height is correct. The cylinder sure the valve stem tip-to-spring seat surface compressor and carefully install the keepers head gasket surface will also be resurfaced if height (without spring or seat installed) (see in the upper groove, then slowly release the
    109. 2C-14 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 13.9 Valve stem tip-to-spring seat surface (Dimension "A" - 2.0L four-cylinder engines only) and installed spring height (Dimension "B" - all engines) 13.7 Apply a small dab of grease to each valves. Be sure to return the components to Follow the manufacturer's instructions pro- keeper as shown here - it will hold them in their original locations - don't mix them up! vided with the tool. Failure to remove the place on the valve stem as the spring 9 Measure the installed valve spring ridges before attempting to remove the pis- is released height (Dimension "B") with a vernier or dial ton/connecting rod assemblies may result in caliper (see illustration). If the head was sent piston breakage. compressor and make sure the keepers seat out for service work, the installed height 2 After the cylinder ridges have been properly. Apply a small dab of grease to each should be correct, but don't automatically removed, turn the engine so the crankshaft is keeper to hold it in place if necessary (see assume that it is. If the height is greater than facing up. illustration). li sted in this Chapter's Specifications, shims 3 Before the main bearing cap assembly 8 Repeat the procedure for the remaining can be added under the spring seat to cor- and connecting rods are removed, check the rect it. Caution: Do not shim the springs to connecting rod endplay with feeler gauges. the point where the installed height is less Slide them between the first connecting rod than specified. and the crankshaft throw until the play is 10 Refer to the appropriate Part of this removed (see illustration). The endplay is Chapter for the procedure to install the equal to the thickness of the feeler gauge(s). camshaft(s) and rocker arms. If the endplay exceeds the service limit, new connecting rods will be required. If new rods (or a new crankshaft) are installed, the end- 14 Pistons and connecting rods - play may fall under the minimum listed in this removal Chapter's Specifications (if it does, the rods will have to be machined to restore it - con- sult an automotive machine shop for advice if Refer to illustrations 14.1, 14.3 14.4 and 14.6 necessary). Repeat the procedure for the Note: Prior to removing the piston/connect- remaining connecting rods. ing rod assemblies, remove the cylinder head 4 Check the connecting rods and caps for and oil pan by referring to the appropriate identification marks (see illustration). If they Part of this Chapter. aren't plainly marked, use a small center- 1 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has punch to make the appropriate number of formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about indentations on each rod and cap (1, 2, 3, 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder). etc., depending on the cylinder they're asso- 14.1 Before you try to remove the pistons, If carbon deposits or cylinder wear have pro- ciated with). use a ridge reamer to remove the raised duced ridges, they must be completely 5 Loosen each of the connecting rod cap material (ridge) from the top of removed with a special tool (see illustration). nuts or bolts 1/2-turn at a time until they can the cylinders 14.4 If the connecting rods and caps are not identified, use a center punch or numbered impression stamps to mark the caps 14.3 Checking the connecting rod endplay (side clearance) to the rods by cylinder number (No. 4 connecting rod shown)
    110. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-15 14.6 On V6 engines, place a section of plastic or rubber hose over the connecting rod studs to prevent damaging the crankshaft journals during piston/rod removal be removed by hand. Remove the number interconnected through two gears which one connecting rod cap and bearing insert. rotate them in opposite directions. These Don't drop the bearing insert out of the cap. gears are driven by a chain from the crank- 6 If you are removing the rods from a V6 shaft and they are designed to rotate at a 2:1 engine, slip a short length of plastic or rubber ratio with the crankshaft (one turn of the hose over each connecting rod stud to pro- crankshaft equals two turns of the balance tect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall shafts). This motion will counterbalance cer- 2C as the rod is removed (see illustration). tain reciprocating masses within the engine. 7 Remove the bearing insert and push the 2 Remove the chain cover, guide and ten- connecting rod/piston assembly out through sioner from the engine block (see illustra- the top of the engine. Use a wooden or plastic tion). hammer handle to push on the upper bearing 3 While keeping the crankshaft from rotat- surface in the connecting rod. If resistance is ing, remove the balance shaft bolts. Caution: felt, double-check to make sure that all of the If the rocker arm shaft assemblies have not ridge was removed from the cylinder. been removed, DO NOT rotate the crankshaft 8 Repeat the procedure for the remaining as valve damage could occur. Note: A block cylinders. Note: On four-cylinder engines, of wood placed tightly between the engine new connecting rod bolts must be installed block and the crankshaft counterbalance will when the engine is reassembled. prevent crankshaft rotation. 9 After removal, reassemble the connect- 4 Remove the balance shaft chain ing rod caps and bearing inserts in their sprocket, chain and crankshaft chain sprock- respective connecting rods and install the et (see illustration). Use two prybars to work 15.4 Balance shaft chain, crankshaft and cap bolts finger tight. Leaving the old bearing the sprocket back and forth until it is free balance shaft sprockets assembly details inserts in place until reassembly will help pre- from the crankshaft. Note: The carrier assem- vent the connecting rod bearing surfaces bly may be removed from the main bearing from being accidentally nicked or gouged. cap assembly at this time, if balance shaft from the gear cover. Then remove the gear 10 Don't separate the pistons from the removal is not required. cover and balance shaft drive and driven connecting rods (see Section 20 for addi- 5 Remove the special stud (double-ended) gears (see illustration). tional information). 15 Balance shafts (2.4L four-cylinder engine only) - removal, inspection and installation Note: This procedure assumes that the engine has been removed from the vehicle and the driveplate, timing belt, oil pan and oil 15.5 Remove the double pump have also been removed (see Chapter ended stud and separate 2, Part A). the gear cover from the balance shaft carrier Removal Refer to illustrations 15.2, 15.4, 15.5 and 15.6 1 The balance shafts are installed in a car- ri er that is mounted to the main bearing cap assembly on the lower part of the engine block (see illustration 9.5b). The shafts are
    111. 2C-16 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 15.12 After gear installation, the balance shaft keyways should be parallel and facing the crankshaft, and the gear alignment marks should be together as shown not to cock the sprocket as its being Installation installed. Refer to illustrations 15.12 and 15.15 15 Position the crankshaft so the timing 9 Install the balance shaft carrier onto the mark on the chain sprocket is aligned with main bearing cap assembly and tighten the the parting line on the left side of the num- bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's ber 1 main bearing cap as shown (see illus- Specifications. tration). 15.6 Remove the rear cover from the 10 Lubricate the balance shafts with clean 16 Place the chain onto the crankshaft carrier and withdraw the balance shafts engine oil and insert them into the carrier. sprocket so that the nickel plated link of the 11 Install the rear cover and tighten the chain is located at the timing mark on the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's crankshaft sprocket (see illustration 15.15). 6 Remove the rear cover from the carrier Specifications. 17 Install the balance shaft sprocket into and withdraw the balance shafts (see illus- 12 Rotate the balance shafts until both the chain so that the timing mark on the tration). shaft keyways are parallel and facing toward sprocket (yellow dot) mates with the nickel 7 Remove the bolts that retain the carrier the crankshaft. Install the short hub drive plated link on the chain (8 links from the to the main bearing cap assembly, and sepa- gear on the sprocket driven shaft and the upper nickel plated link) (see illustration rate the carrier from the engine. long hub gear on the gear driven shaft. After 15.15). installation, the timing marks (dots) should be Inspection 18 Slide the balance shaft sprocket onto together and the keyways positioned as the balance shaft. If the sprocket is difficult to 8 Clean all components with solvent and shown (see illustration). install on the balance shaft, it may be neces- dry thoroughly. Inspect all components for 13 Install the gear cover and tighten the sary to loosen the rear cover and push the damage and wear. Pay special attention to double-ended stud to the torque listed in this the chain, sprocket and gear teeth and the balance shaft slightly out of the carrier to Chapter's Specifications. facilitate sprocket installation. Note: The tim- bearing surfaces of the carrier and balance 14 Install the sprocket onto the crankshaft shafts. Replace defective parts as necessary. ing mark on the balance shaft sprocket and with the timing mark facing out, be careful LOWER NICKEL PLATED LINK 8 LINKS INSTALL CHAIN WITH FROM UPPER LINK ALL KEYWAYS UP 15.15 The timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket, nickel plated 15.20 With the shim in place, apply approximately 5.5 to 6.5 Ibs of links, notch and the yellow dot on balance shaft sprocket must be pressure to the chain tensioner and then tighten the bolt to the aligned for correct timing torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications
    112. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-17 16.3 Checking the crankshaft endplay using feeler gauges at the 16.1 Checking the crankshaft endplay using a dial indicator thrust bearing journal the nickel plated link should align with the sure the endplay. Mount a dial indicator with cylinder block. On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, notch on the side of the gear cover (see illus- the indicator in line with the crankshaft and remove the oil filter passage 0-ring seal and tration 15.15). just touching the end of the crankshaft as the three main bearing cap assembly locating 19 Install the balance shaft bolts. While shown (see illustration). dowels. Try not to drop the bearing inserts if keeping the crankshaft from rotating, tighten 2 Pry the crankshaft all the way to the rear they come out with the assembly. the balance shaft bolts to the torque listed in and zero the dial indicator. Next, pry the 6 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the this Chapter's Specifications. Note: A block crankshaft to the front as far as possible and engine. It may be a good idea to have an of wood placed tightly between the engine check the reading on the dial indicator. The assistant available, since the crankshaft is block and the crankshaft counterbalance will distance traveled is the endplay. If it's greater quite heavy and awkward to handle. With the 2C prevent crankshaft rotation. than the tolerance listed in this Chapter's bearing inserts in place inside the engine Specifications, check the crankshaft thrust block and main bearing caps, reinstall the Chain tensioning surfaces for wear after its removed. If no main bearing cap assembly onto engine Refer to illustration 15.20 wear is evident, new main bearings should block and tighten the bolts finger tight. Make 20 Install the chain tensioner loosely. Place correct the endplay. sure you install the main bearing cap assem- a 0.039 x 2.75 inch shim (a feeler gauge cut 3 If a dial indicator isn't available, feeler bly on V6 models with the arrow facing the to the appropriate size can be used) between gauges can be used. Gently pry the front (timing belt end) of the engine. the tensioner and the chain (see illustration). crankshaft all the way to the front of the Push the tensioner up against the chain. engine. Slip feeler gauges between the Apply firm pressure (approximately 5.5 to 6.5 crankshaft and the front face of the thrust 17 Engine block - cleaning Ibs) directly behind the adjustment slot to bearing or washer to determine the clearance remove the slack. (see illustration). Refer to illustrations 17.1a, 17.lb, 17.8 and 21 With pressure applied, tighten the top 4 Loosen the main bearing cap assembly 17.10 tensioner bolt first then the bottom pivot bolt. bolts 1/4-turn at a time each, until they can 1 Remove the core plugs from the engine Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this be removed by hand. block. To do this, knock one side of the plugs Chapter's Specifications. Remove the shim. 5 Gently tap the main bearing cap assem- into the block with a hammer and a punch, 22 Place the chain guide onto the double- bly with a soft-face hammer around the then grasp them with large pliers and pull ended stud making sure the tab on the guide perimeter of the assembly. Pull the main them out (see illustrations). fits into the slot on the gear cover. Tighten bearing cap assembly straight up and off the the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 23 Install the chain cover and tighten the bolts securely. 16 Crankshaft - removal Refer to illustrations 16.1 and 16.3 Note: The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle. It's assumed that the driveplate, crankshaft pulley, timing belt, oil pan, oil pump body, oil filter and piston/connecting rod assemblies have already been removed. On V6 engines, the rear main oil seal retainer must be unbolted and separated from the block before proceeding with crankshaft 17.1a Use a hammer and a large punch to 17.lb . . . then pull the core plugs removal. knock the core plugs sideways in out with pliers 1 Before the crankshaft is removed, mea - their bores .. .
    113. 2C-18 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures new oil gallery plugs and thread them into the holes in the block. Make sure they're tight- ened securely. 12 If the engine isn't going to be reassem- bled right away, cover it with a large plastic trash bag to keep it clean. 18 Engine block - inspection Refer to illustrations 18.4a, 18.4b. 18.4c, 18.4d and 18.8 1 Before the block is inspected, it must be cleaned as described in Section 17. 2 Visually check the block for cracks, rust and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the threaded holes. It's also a good idea to 17.8 All bolt holes in the block, 17.10 A large 1/2 drive socket on an have the block checked for hidden cracks by particularly the main bearing cap and extension can be used to drive the new an automotive machine shop that has the head bolt holes, should be cleaned and core plugs into the block special equipment to do this type of work. If restored with the appropriate tap (be sure defects are found, have the block repaired, if to remove the debris from the holes after damaged threads (see illustration). If possi- possible, or replaced. Note: If the engine this operation) ble, use compressed air to clear the holes of block requires machining, be sure to send the debris produced by this operation. Now is a main bearing cap assembly along with the good time to clean the threads on the head block. 2 Using a gasket scraper, remove all traces of gasket material from the engine bolts and the main bearing cap bolts as well. 3 Check the cylinder bores for scuffing block. Be very careful not to nick or gouge 9 Reinstall the bearing inserts in their cor- and scoring. rect locations and place the main bearing cap 4 Check the cylinders for taper and out- the gasket sealing surfaces. Remove the main bearing cap assembly assembly onto the engine block. Tighten the of-round conditions as follows (see illustra- 3 and separate the bearing inserts from the bolts finger tight. tions): caps and the engine block. Note: The upper 10 After coating the sealing surfaces of the bearings are equipped with the oil groove and new core plugs with Permatex No. 2 sealant hole, the thrust bearing is in the No. 3 (center) (or equivalent), install them in the engine location. Tag the bearings, indicating which block (see illustration). Make sure they're cylinder they were removed from, then set driven in straight and seated properly or leak- them aside. age could result. Special tools are available 4 Remove all of the threaded oil gallery for this purpose, but a large socket, with an plugs from the block. The plugs are usually outside diameter that will just slip into the very tight - they may have to be drilled out core plug, a 1/2-inch drive extension and a and the holes retapped. Use new plugs when hammer will work just as well. the engine is reassembled. 11 Apply non-hardening sealant (such as 5 If the engine is extremely dirty it should Permatex No. 2 or Teflon pipe sealant) to the be taken to an automotive machine shop for cleaning. 6 After the block is returned, clean all oil <—CENTERLINE ENGINE---> OF 18.4b Measure the diameter of each holes and oil galleries one more time. cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at Brushes specifically designed for this pur- the center (B) and the bottom (C) pose are available at most auto parts stores. Flush the passages with warm water until the water runs clear, dry the block thoroughly and wipe all machined surfaces with a light, rust preventive oil. If you have access to compressed air, use it to speed the drying process and to blow out all the oil holes and galleries. Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! 7 If the block isn't extremely dirty or slugged up, you can do an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy water and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time and do a thorough job. Regardless of the cleaning method used, be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very 18.4a Measure the diameter of each thoroughly, dry the block completely and cylinder at a right angle to the engine coat all machined surfaces with light oil. centerline (A) and parallel to the engine 8 The threaded holes in the block must be centerline (B) - the cylinder out-of-round 18.4c The ability to "feel" when the clean to ensure accurate torque readings is the difference between (A) and (B); the telescoping gauge is at the correct point during reassembly. Run the proper size tap cylinder taper is the difference between will be developed over time, so work into each of the holes to remove rust, corro- (A) and (B) at the top of the cylinder and slowly and repeat the check until you're sion, thread sealant or sludge and restore (A) and (B) at the bottom of the cylinder satisfied that the measurement is accurate
    114. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-19 18.8 Check the cylinder block head gasket surface for warpage 18.4d To determine the diameter, the telescoping gauge is then by placing a precision straightedge across the surface and trying measured with a micrometer to slip a feeler gauge between the block and straightedge a) Measure the diameter of each cylinder at machine shops will do it for a reasonable fee. tration). Ideally, the crosshatch lines the top Oust under the ridge area), center 2 Before honing the cylinders, install the should intersect at approximately a 60- and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel main bearing cap assembly and tighten the degree angle. Be sure to use plenty of to the crankshaft axis. bolts to the torque li sted in this Chapter's lubricant and don't take off any more b) Next, measure each cylinder's diameter Specifications following the recommended material than is absolutely necessary to at the same three locations perpendicu- tightening sequence (see illustrations produce the desired finish. Note: Piston lar to the crankshaft axis. 25.13a, 25.13b and 25.13c). Make sure you ring manufacturers may specify a c) The taper of each cylinder is the differ- install the main bearing cap assembly on V6 smaller crosshatch angle than the tradi- ence between the bore diameter at the models with the arrow facing the front (timing tional 60-degrees - read and follow any 2C top of the cylinder and the diameter at belt end) of the engine. instructions included with the new rings. the bottom. The out-of-round specifica- 3 Two types of cylinder hones are com- c) Don't withdraw the hone from the cylin- tion is the difference between the paral- monly available - the flex hone or "bottle der while it's running. Instead, shut off lel and perpendicular measurements. brush" type and the more traditional surfac- the drill and continue moving the hone Compare the results to the tolerance ing hone with spring-loaded stones. Both will up-and-down in the cylinder until it listed in this Chapter's Specifications. do the job, but for the less experienced comes to a complete stop, then com- 5 Repeat the procedure for the remaining mechanic the "bottle brush" hone will proba- press the stones and withdraw the hone. cylinders. bly be easier to use. You'll also need some If you're using a "bottle brush" type 6 If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or kerosene or honing oil, rags and an electric hone, stop the drill motor, then turn the scored, or if they're out-of-round or tapered drill motor. Proceed as follows: chuck in the normal direction of rotation beyond the li mits listed in this Chapter's a) Mount the hone in the drill motor, com- while withdrawing the hone from the Specifications, have the engine block press the stones and slip it into the first cylinder. rebored and honed at an automotive machine cylinder (see illustration). Be sure to d) Wipe the oil out of the cylinder and shop. If a rebore is performed, oversize pis- wear safety goggles or a face shield! repeat the procedure for the remaining tons and rings will be required. b) Lubricate the cylinder with plenty of cylinders. 7 If the cylinders are in reasonably good honing oil, turn on the drill and move the condition and not worn to the outside of the hone up-and-down in the cylinder at a li mits, and if the piston-to-cylinder bore clear- pace that will produce a fine crosshatch ances are acceptable, then they don't have pattern on the cylinder walls (see illus - to be rebored. Honing is all that's necessary (see Section 19). 8 Using a precision straightedge and a feeler gauge, check the block deck (the sur- face that mates with the cylinder head) for distortion (see illustration). If it's distorted beyond the tolerance listed in this Chapter's Specifications, it can usually be resurfaced by an automotive machine shop. 19 Cylinder honing Refer to illustrations 19.3a and 19.3b 1 Prior to engine reassembly, the cylinder 0-AC HAYNES bores must be honed so the new piston rings will seat correctly and provide the best possi- 19.3b The honing procedure should ble combustion chamber seal. Note: If you produce a smooth crosshatch pattern 19.3a A "bottle brush" type hone will don't have the tools or don't want to tackle with the lines intersecting at the honing operation, most automotive generally produce the best results in most applications approximately 60 degree angles
    115. 2C-20 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 20.2 Use a piston ring removal tool 20.4a The piston ring grooves can be 20.4b . . . or a short piece of an old (shown) to remove the rings from cleaned using a special tool like compression ring the pistons this one .. . 4 After the honing job is complete, cham- remove carbon deposits from the ring fer the top edges of the cylinder bores with a grooves. If a tool isn't available, a piece bro- small file so the rings won't catch when the ken off the old ring will do the job. Be very pistons are installed. Be very careful not to careful to remove only the carbon deposits - nick the cylinder walls with the end of the file. don't remove any metal and do not nick or 5 The entire engine block must be washed scratch the sides of the ring grooves (see again very thoroughly with warm, soapy illustrations). water to remove all traces of the abrasive grit 5 Once the deposits have been removed, produced during the honing operation. Note: clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent The bores can be considered clean when a and dry them with compressed air (if avail- lint-free white cloth - dampened with clean able). Make sure the oil return holes in the engine oil - used to wipe them out doesn't back sides of the ring grooves are free from pick up any more honing residue, which will obstructions. show up as gray areas on the cloth. Be sure 6 If the pistons and cylinder walls aren't to run a brush through all oil holes and gal- damaged or worn excessively, and if the leries and flush them with running water. engine block is not rebored, new pistons 6 After rinsing, dry the block and apply a won't be necessary. Normal piston wear 20.10 Checking the piston ring coat of light rust preventive oil or Vaseline to appears as even, vertical wear on the piston side clearance all machined surfaces. Wrap the block in a thrust surfaces and slight looseness of the plastic trash bag to keep it clean and set it top ring in its groove. However, new piston rebuilt engine. aside until reassembly. rings should always be installed when an 10 Measure the piston ring side clearance engine is rebuilt. by laying a new piston ring in each ring 7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks groove and slipping a feeler gauge in beside 20 Pistons and connecting rods - around the skirt, at the pin bosses and at the it (see illustration). Check the clearance at ring lands. inspection three or four locations around each groove. 8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the Be sure to use the correct ring for each thrust faces of the skirt, holes in the piston Refer to illustrations 20.2, 20.4a, 20.4b, 20.10 groove - they are different. If the side clear- crown and burned areas at the edge of the and 20.11 ance is greater than specified, new pistons crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the must be installed. If new pistons are installed, 1 Before the inspection process can be engine may have been suffering from over- repeat this step with the new pistons and carried out, the piston/connecting rod heating and/or abnormal combustion, which assemblies must be cleaned and the original rings. caused excessively high operating tempera- piston rings removed from the pistons. Note: 11 Check the piston-to-bore clearance by tures. The cooling and lubrication systems Always use new piston rings when the engine measuring the cylinder bore (see Section 18) should be checked thoroughly. A hole in the is reassembled. and the piston diameter. Make sure the pis- piston crown is an indication that abnormal tons and bores are correctly matched. Mea- 2 Using a piston ring removal tool (see combustion (pre-ignition) was occurring. sure the piston across the skirt 11/16-inch illustration), carefully remove the rings from Burned areas at the edge of the piston crown (2.0L four-cylinder), 9/16-inch (2.4L four- the pistons. Be careful not to nick or gouge are usually evidence of spark knock (detona- cylinder) or 0.080 inch (V6 engine) above the the pistons in the process. tion). If any of the above problems exist, the 3 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top bottom of the piston, at a 90-degree angle to causes must be corrected or the damage will of the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a the piston pin (see illustration). Subtract the occur again. The causes may include intake piece of fine emery cloth can be used once piston diameter from the bore diameter to air leaks, incorrect fuel/air mixture, incorrect the majority of the deposits have been obtain the piston-to-bore clearance. If it's ignition timing and EGR system malfunctions. greater than the limit listed in this Chapter's scraped away. Do not, under any circum- 9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of stances, use a wire brush mounted in a drill Specifications, the block must be rebored small pits, indicates that coolant is leaking and new pistons and rings installed. motor to remove deposits from the pistons. into the combustion chamber and/or the The piston material is soft and may be 12 Check the piston-to-rod clearance by crankcase. Again, the cause must be cor- twisting the piston and rod in opposite direc- eroded away by the wire brush. rected or the problem may persist in the Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to tions. Any noticeable play indicates exces- 4
    116. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-21 20.11 Measure the piston diameter 90 21.1 Using a fine file, break the edge on 21.2 Use a wire or stiff bristle brush to degrees from the piston pin and the the crankshaft journal oil passages so clean the crankshaft oil passages - be specified distance from the bottom of the sharp edges won't gouge or scratch the sure to flush them with solvent after piston skirt new bearings this operation 2C 21.4 An easy way to check the surface finish on the bearing journals is to rub a penny over the bearing surface - if the copper 21.7 Measure the diameter of each bearing journal at several transfers to the crankshaft, the surface is too rough and must be locations to determine if it's excessively worn or taper and out-of- reground by an automotive machine shop round conditions exist sive wear, which must be corrected. The pis- because of a connecting rod knock, always holes with a stone, file or scraper, ton/connecting rod assemblies should be install new rods. 6 Check the rest of the crankshaft for taken to an automotive machine shop to have cracks and other damage. It should be mag- the pistons and rods resized and new pins nafluxed to reveal hidden cracks - an auto- installed. 21 Crankshaft - inspection motive machine shop will handle the proce- 13 If the pistons must be removed from the dure. connecting rods for any reason, they should Refer to illustration 21.1, 21.2, 21.4 and 21.7 7 Using a micrometer, measure the diam- be taken to an automotive machine shop for 1 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil eter of the main bearing and connecting rod disassembly. While at the automotive machine journals and compare the results to the toler- holes with a stone, file or scraper (see illus- shop, have the connecting rods checked for ances listed in this Chapter's Specifications tration). bend and twist, since automotive machine 2 Clean the crankshaft with solvent and (see illustration). By measuring the diameter shops have special equipment specifically at a number of points around each journal's dry it with compressed air (if available). Be used for this purpose. Note: Unless new pis- circumference, you'll be able to determine sure to clean the oil holes with a stiff brush tons and/or connecting rods must be whether or not the journal is out-of-round. and flush them with solvent (see illustration). installed, do not disassemble the pistons and Take the measurement at each end of the Warning: If compressed air is used always connecting rods. journal, near the crank throws, to determine if wear eye protection to prevent solvents or 14 Inspect the connecting rods for cracks the journal is tapered. debris from causing and injury to your eyes. and other damage. Temporarily remove the 8 If the crankshaft journals are damaged, 3 Check the main and connecting rod rod caps, lift out the old bearing inserts, wipe tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, the rod and cap bearing surfaces clean and li mits listed in this Chapter's Specifications, pits and cracks. inspect them for nicks, gouges and the crankshaft must be reground by an auto- 4 Rub a penny across each journal several scratches. After checking the rods, replace motive machine shop. Be sure to obtain and ti mes. If a journal picks up copper from the the old bearings, slip the caps into place and install the correct size bearing inserts if the penny, it's too rough and must be reground tighten the nuts (or bolts as applicable) finger crankshaft is reconditioned. (see illustration). tight. Note: If the engine is being rebuilt 9 Check the oil seal journals at each end 5 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil
    117. 2C-22 holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a bearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrica- tion is the cause of bearing failure, the bear- ing material is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full throttle, low speed opera- tion (lugging the engine) puts very high loads on bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the bearings to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bear- ing face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bear- ing material will loosen in pieces and tear away from the steel backing. Short trip driv- ing leads to corrosion of bearings because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is car- ried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight fitting bearings leave insuffi- cient bearing oil clearance and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing insert result in high spots on the bearing which lead to failure. EXCESSIVE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL 22.1 Typical bearing wear patterns and probable causes 23 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If the same general position as their location in the 1 Before beginning engine reassembly, seal has worn a groove in the journal, or if it's engine. This will enable you to match any make sure you have all the necessary new nicked or scratched, the new seal may leak bearing problems with the corresponding parts, gaskets and seals as well as the fol- when the engine is reassembled . In some crankshaft journal. lowing items on hand: cases, an automotive machine shop may be 4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into Common hand tools able to repair the journal by pressing on a thin the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left A 1/2-inch drive torque wrench sleeve. If repair isn't feasible, a new or differ- in the engine during assembly, or it may pass Piston ring installation tool ent crankshaft must be installed. through filters or the PCV system. It may get Piston ring compressor 10 Refer to Section 22 and examine the into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Plastigage set main and rod bearing inserts. Metal chips from machining operations and Feeler gauges normal engine wear are often present. Abra- A fine-tooth file sives are sometimes left in engine compo- New engine oil 22 Main and connecting rod nents after reconditioning, especially when Engine assembly lube or moly-base bearings - inspection parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the grease proper cleaning methods. Whatever the Gasket sealants (anaerobic and RTV source, these foreign objects often end up type) Refer to illustration 22.1 embedded in the soft bearing material and Thread locking compound 1 Even though the main and connecting are easily recognized. Large particles will not 2 In order to save time and avoid prob- rod bearings should be replaced with new embed in the bearing and will score or gouge lems, engine reassembly should be per- ones during the engine overhaul, the old the bearing and journal. The best prevention formed in the following general order: bearings should be retained for close exami- for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all nation, as they may reveal valuable informa- Piston rings installed on pistons parts thoroughly and keep everything spot- tion about the condition of the engine (see Crankshaft and main bearings lessly clean during engine assembly. Fre- illustration). Piston/connecting rod assemblies quent and regular engine oil and filter 2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack Rear main oil seal changes are also recommended. of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other Balance shaft carrier (2.4L four-cylinder) 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication break- foreign particles, overloading the engine and Front case and oil pump assembly down) has a number of interrelated causes. corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing Oil pan Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overload- failure, it must be corrected before the engine Cylinder head(s) assembly ing (which squeezes the oil from the bearing is reassembled to prevent it from happening Water pump face) and oil leakage or throw off (from again. Timing belt and sprockets excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump 3 When examining the bearings, remove Timing belt cover(s) or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubri- them from the engine block, the main bearing Rocker arm cover(s) cation breakdown. Blocked oil passages, caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps Intake and exhaust manifolds which usually are the result of misaligned oil and lay them out on a clean surface in the Driveplate
    118. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-23 24.5 If the ring end gap is too small, 24.3 Install the piston ring into the 24.4 With the ring square in the cylinder, clamp a file in a vise as shown and file the cylinder then push it down into position measure the ring end gap with a piston ring ends - be sure to remove all using a piston so the ring will be square in feeler gauge raised material the cylinder 24 Piston rings - installation Refer to illustrations 24.3, 24.4, 24.5, 24.9a, 24.9b, 24.11 and 24.12 1 Before installing the new piston rings, the ring end gaps must be checked. It's assumed that the piston ring side clearance 2C has been checked and verified correct (see Section 20). 2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod assemblies and the new ring sets so the ring sets will be matched with the same piston and cylinder during the end gap measure- ment and engine assembly. 3 Insert the top (number one) ring into the 24.9a Installing the spacer/expander in 24.9b DO NOT use a piston ring first cylinder and square it up with the cylin- the oil ring groove installation tool when installing the oil der walls by pushing it in with the top of the piston (see illustration). The ring should be control side rails near the bottom of the cylinder, at the lower you are referencing the correct section and limit of ring travel. category of specifications. 4 To measure the end gap, slip feeler 7 Repeat the procedure for each ring that gauges between the ends of the ring until a will be installed in the first cylinder and for gauge equal to the gap width is found (see each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remem- illustration). The feeler gauge should slide ber to keep rings, pistons and cylinders between the ring ends with a slight amount of matched up. drag. Compare the measurement to the toler- 8 Once the ring end gaps have been ance listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If checked/corrected, the rings can be installed the gap is larger or smaller than specified, on the pistons. double-check to make sure you have the cor- 9 The oil control ring (lowest one on the rect rings before proceeding. piston) is usually installed first. It's composed 5 If the gap is too small, it must be of three separate components. Slip the enlarged or the ring ends may come in con- spacer/expander into the groove (see illus- tact with each other during engine operation, tration). If an anti-rotation tang is used, make which can cause serious damage to the sure it's inserted into the drilled hole in the engine. The end gap can be increased by fil- ring groove. Next, install the upper side rail in ing the ring ends very carefully with a fine file. the same manner (see illustration). Don't use 24.11 Piston ring assembly details Mount the file in a vise equipped with soft a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring jaws, slip the ring over the file with the ends side rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, contacting the file face and slowly move the place one end of the side rail into the groove 11 The number two (middle) ring is installed ring to remove material from the ends. When between the spacer/expander and the ring next. It's usually stamped with a mark which performing this operation, file only by push- land, hold it firmly in place and slide a finger must face up, toward the top of the piston. Do ing the ring from the outside end of the file around the piston while pushing the rail into not mix up the top and middle rings, as they towards the vise (see illustration). the groove. Finally, install the lower side rail. have different cross-sections (see illustra- 6 Excess end gap isn't critical unless it's 10 After the three oil ring components have tion). Note: Always follow the instructions greater than the limit listed in this Chapter's been installed, check to make sure that both printed on the ring package or box - different Specifications. Again, double-check to make the upper and lower side rails can be rotated manufacturers may require different approach- sure you have the correct ring type and that smoothly inside the ring grooves. es.
    119. 2C-24 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures LUBRICATION GROOVES 25.5a On four-cylinder engines, install the upper bearings (with grooves and holes) into the engine block. Be sure to align the oil holes and install the thrust bearing in the center bearing position (arrow) OIL HOLES UPPER 24.12 Use a piston ring installation tool to BEARINGS install the 2nd and top rings - be sure the directional mark on the piston ring(s) is 25.5b Main bearing facing toward the top of the piston installation details - four- cylinder engines 12 Use a piston ring installation tool and make sure the identification mark is facing the top of the piston, then slip the ring into the middle groove on the piston (see illustra- tion). Don't expand the ring any more than necessary to slide it over the piston. 13 Install the number one (top) ring in the same manner. Make sure the mark is facing been cleaned, inspected and repaired or Main bearing oil clearance up. Be careful not to confuse the number one reconditioned. and number two rings (see illustration Position the engine block with the bot- check 2 24.11). tom facing up. Refer to illustrations 25.5a, 25.5b, 25.5c, 14 Repeat the procedure for the remaining 3 Remove the mounting bolts and lift off 25.11, 25.13a, 25.13b, 25.13c and 25.15 pistons and rings. the main bearing cap assembly. 5 Without mixing them up, clean the back 4 If they're still in place, remove the origi- sides of the new upper main bearing inserts nal bearing inserts from the block and the (with grooves and oil holes) and lay one in 25 Crankshaft installation and main main bearing cap assembly. Wipe the bearing each main bearing saddle in the block. Each bearing oil clearance check surfaces of the block and main bearing cap upper bearing has an oil groove and oil hole assembly with a clean, lint-free cloth. They in it. Caution: The oil holes in the block must must be kept spotlessly clean. This is critical line up with the oil holes in the upper bearing 1 Crankshaft installation is the first step in engine reassembly. It's assumed at this point for determining the correct bearing oil clear- inserts. The thrust bearing insert or thrust ance. washers (V6 engine) must be installed in the that the engine block and crankshaft have No. 3 bearing position (see illustrations). V6 engines have two two-piece thrust washers GROOVED which are installed on each side of the No. 3 bearing. Install the thrust washers with the grooved side toward the crankshaft (plain sides should be facing each other). Install the thrust washers so that one set has a tab located in the block and the other set's tab is in the main bearing cap assembly. Clean the back sides of the lower main bearing inserts (without grooves) and lay them in the corre- sponding location in the main bearing cap assembly. Make sure the tab on the bearing insert fits into the recess in the block or main bearing cap assembly. Caution: Do not ham- mer the bearing insert into place and don't nick or gouge the bearing faces. DO NOT apply any lubrication at this time. 6 Clean the faces of the bearing inserts in the block and the crankshaft main bearing journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. 7 Check or clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one way - straight through the new bearings. 25.5c Crankshaft main bearing and thrust washer arrangement - V6 engine 8 Once you're certain the crankshaft is
    120. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-25 * INDICATES DOWEL LOCATION 25.11 Place the Plastigage (arrow) onto the crankshaft bearing 25.13a Main bearing cap assembly bolt tightening sequence - journal as shown 2.0L four-cylinder engine clean, carefully lay it in position in the cylinder block. 9 Before the crankshaft can be perma- nently installed, the main bearing oil clear- ance must be checked. Note: On four-cylin- der engines, the crankshaft position sensor 25.13b Main bearing cap must be removed prior to main bearing oil assembly bolt tightening clearance check (see Chapter 6 if necessary). sequence - 2.4L four- 10 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, make cylinder engine sure the three locating dowels are in place on 2C the cylinder block. This is necessary for proper alignment of the main bearing cap assembly to the cylinder block and crank- shaft. 11 Cut several pieces of the appropriate size Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter DO NOT disturb the Plastigage. Make sure torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. than the width of the main bearing journal) you install the main bearing cap assembly on DO NOT rotate the crankshaft at any time and place one piece on each crankshaft main V6 models with the arrow facing the front during this operation. bearing journal, parallel with the journal axis (ti ming belt end) of the engine. 14 Remove the bolts in the reverse order of as shown (see illustration). 13 Apply clean engine oil to all bolt threads the tightening sequence and carefully lift the 12 Clean the faces of the bearing inserts in prior to installation, then install all bolts fin- main bearing cap assembly straight up and the main bearing cap assembly. Hold the ger-tight. Tighten main bearing cap assembly off the block. Do not disturb the Plastigage or bearing inserts in place and install the assem- bolts in the sequence shown (see illustra- rotate the crankshaft. If the main bearing cap bly onto the crankshaft and cylinder block. tions) progressing in three steps, to the assembly is difficult to remove, tap it gently from side-to-side with a soft-face hammer to loosen it. 15 Compare the width of the crushed Plas- tigage on each journal to the scale printed on 25.15 Use the scale on the Plastigage package to determine the bearing oil clearance - be sure to measure the widest part of the Plastigage and use the correct 25.13c Main bearing cap assembly bolt tightening sequence - V6 engine scale; it comes with both standard and metric scales
    121. 2C-26 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures the Plastigage envelope to determine the main bearing oil clearance (see illustration). Check the tolerance listed in this Chapter's Specifications to make sure it's acceptable. 16 If the clearance is not as specified, the bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which 25.21 On four-cylinder means different ones will be required). Before engines, apply a 1/16-inch deciding if different inserts are needed, make bead of anaerobic sealer sure that no dirt or oil was between the bear- ( Mopar Torque Cure Gasket ing inserts and the cap assembly or block Maker, or equivalent) to the when the clearance was measured. If the engine block as shown Plastigage was wider at one end than the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered (refer to Section 21). If the clearance still exceeds the limit specified, the bearing insert(s) will have to be replaced with an undersize bearing insert(s). Caution: When until it contacts the locating dowels. assembly, tap the ends of the crankshaft for- installing a new crankshaft always install a 25 Prior to installation, apply clean engine ward and backward with a lead or brass standard bearing insert set. oil to all bolt threads wiping off any excess, hammer to seat the main bearing and 17 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plasti- then install all bolts finger-tight. On 2.0L four- crankshaft thrust surfaces. gage material off the main bearing journals cylinder engines, install baffle studs in posi- 30 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times and/or the bearing insert faces. Be sure to tions 12, 13 and 16 (see illustration 25.13a). by hand to check for any obvious binding. It remove all residue from the oil holes. Use 26 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, tighten should rotate with a running torque of 50 in- your fingernail or the edge of a plastic card - the main bearing cap assembly as follows lbs or less. If the running torque is too high, don't nick or scratch the bearing faces. (see illustration 25.13a): correct the problem at this time. a) Tighten bolts 11, 17 and 20 until the 31 Recheck the crankshaft endplay with a assembly contacts the engine block. feeler gauge or a dial indicator as described Final installation in Section 16. The endplay should be correct b) Tighten bolts 1 through 10 in the Refer to illustration 25.21 if the crankshaft thrust faces aren't worn or sequence shown, in 3 steps to the 18 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica- damaged and new bearings have been cylinder block. installed. tions. 19 Clean the bearing insert faces in the 32 Refer to the appropriate Part of Chap- c) Tighten bolts 11 through 20 in the cylinder block, then apply a thin, uniform ter 2 and install the new rear main oil seal. sequence shown to the torque listed in layer of moly-base grease or engine assem- this Chapter's Specifications. bly lube to each of the bearing surfaces. Be sure to coat the thrust faces as well as the 27 On 2.4L four-cylinder engines, tighten the main bearing cap assembly as follows 26 Pistons and connecting rods - journal face of the thrust bearing. Caution: installation and rod bearing oil (see illustration 25.13b): Be sure to install the thrust bearing inserts or clearance check thrust washers (V6 engine) in the No. 3 journal a) Tighten bolts 11, 17 and 20 until the (see illustrations 25.5a, 25.5b and 25.5c). assembly contacts the engine block. 20 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, install a b) To ensure correct thrust bearing align- 1 Before installing the piston/connecting new oil filter passage 0-ring seal and make ment, rotate the crankshaft until the No. rod assemblies, the cylinder walls must be sure the three locating dowels are in place on 4 piston is at TDC. perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder the cylinder block. The dowels are necessary c) Carefully pry the crankshaft all the way bore must be chamfered, and the crankshaft for proper alignment of the main bearing cap towards the rear of the block and then must be in place. assembly to the cylinder block and towards the front of the block. 2 Remove the cap from the end of the crankshaft. d) Wedge an appropriate tool such as a number one connecting rod (refer to the block of wood, between the engine marks made during removal). Remove the 21 On four-cylinder engines, clean the main bearing cap assembly-to-cylinder block mat- block and the crankshaft counterweight original bearing inserts and wipe the bearing to hold the crankshaft in the most for- surfaces of the connecting rod and cap with ing surfaces. They must be free of any oil residue. Apply a 1/16-inch bead of anaerobic ward position. DO NOT drive the wedge a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept sealer (Mopar Torque Cure Gasket Maker, or between the main bearing cap assembly spotlessly clean. equivalent) to the cylinder block as shown and the crankshaft. (see illustration). Caution: Use ONLY anaer- e) Tighten bolts 1 through 10 in the Connecting rod bearing oil obic sealant meeting the manufacturers spec- sequence shown, in 3 steps to the clearance check ifications or engine damage may occur. torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica- Refer to illustrations 26.6, 26.11, 26.13 and 22 Make sure the crankshaft journals are tions - except DO NOT tighten the bolts 26.14 and 26.17 clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in the additional 1/4-turn. 3 Clean the back side of the new upper the cylinder block. f) Remove the wedge and tighten bolts 1 bearing insert, then lay it in place in the con- 23 Clean the bearing insert faces in the through 10 in the sequence shown, the necting rod. Make sure the tab on the bearing main bearing cap assembly, then apply the additional 1/4-turn. fits into the recess in the rod. Don't hammer same lubricant to them. Caution: On four- g) Tighten bolts 11 through 20 in the the bearing insert into place and be very cylinder engines, DO NOT get any lubricant sequence shown to the torque listed in careful not to nick or gouge the bearing face. on the main bearing cap assembly-to-cylinder this Chapter's Specifications. Don't lubricate the bearing at this time. block mating surfaces as it will inhibit the 28 On V6 engines, tighten the main bearing Clean the back side of the other bearing 4 sealing ability of the anaerobic sealant. cap assembly bolts in the sequence shown insert and install it in the rod cap. Again, 24 Hold the bearing inserts in place and (see illustration 25.13c) progressing in three make sure the tab on the bearing fits into the install the main bearing cap assembly onto steps, to the torque listed in this Chapter's recess in the cap, and don't apply any lubri- the crankshaft and cylinder block. On four- Specifications. cant. It's critically important that the mating cylinder engines, push the assembly down 29 After tightening the main bearing cap surfaces of the bearing and connecting rod
    122. Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-27 FRONT OF ENGINE NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP 26.6 Position the piston ring end gaps as shown 26.11 Use a plastic or wooden hammer 26.13 Place Plastigage on each handle to push the piston into the cylinder connecting rod bearing journal parallel to the crankshaft centerline are perfectly clean and oil free when they're assembled. 5 On V6 engines, slip a short section of plastic or rubber hose over the connecting rod studs to avoid damaging the cylinder wall or crankshaft journal (see illustration 14.6). 6 Position the piston ring gaps at 90- degree intervals around the piston as shown 2C (see illustration). 7 Lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil and attach a piston ring compres- sor to the piston. Leave the skirt protruding about 1/4-inch to guide the piston into the cylinder. The rings must be compressed until they're flush with the piston. 8 Rotate the crankshaft until the number 26.14 Install the connecting rod cap making sure the cap and rod identification one connecting rod journal is at BDC (bottom dead center) and apply a liberal coat of numbers match engine oil to the cylinder walls. 26.17 Use the scale on the Plastigage 9 With the weight designation mark, or package to determine the bearing oil arrow, on top of the piston facing the front clearance must be checked before the rod clearance - be sure to measure the widest (ti ming belt end) of the engine, gently insert cap is permanently installed. part of the Plastigage and use the correct the piston/connecting rod assembly into the 13 Cut a piece of the appropriate size Plas- scale; it comes with both standard and number one cylinder bore and rest the bot- tigage slightly shorter than the width of the metric scales tom edge of the ring compressor on the connecting rod bearing and lay it in place on engine block. Note: The connecting rod also the number one connecting rod journal, par- as they cannot be reused. Note: On four- has a mark on it that must face the front (tim- allel with the journal axis (see illustration). cylinder engines, new connecting rod bolts ing belt end) of the engine if it faces the 14 Clean the connecting rod cap bearing must be installed. opposite direction, the piston and connecting face and install the rod cap. Make sure the 17 Compare the width of the crushed Plas- rod have been assembled improperly. mating mark on the cap is on the same side tigage to the scale printed on the Plastigage 10 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor as the mark on the connecting rod (see illus- envelope to obtain the oil clearance (see to make sure it's contacting the block around tration). Note: Check to make sure the iden- illustration). Compare it to the tolerance its entire circumference. tification mark on the connecting rod faces listed in this Chapter's Specifications to 11 Gently tap on the top of the piston with toward the front (timing belt) end of the make sure the clearance is acceptable. the end of a wooden or plastic hammer han- engine. 18 If the clearance is not as specified, the dle (see illustration) while guiding the end of 15 Install the old rod bolts or nuts, at this bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which the connecting rod into place on the ti me, and tighten them to the torque listed in means different ones will be required). Before crankshaft journal. The piston rings may try to this Chapter's Specifications, working up to it deciding that different inserts are needed, pop out of the ring compressor just before in three steps. Note: Use a thin-wall socket to make sure that no dirt or oil was between the entering the cylinder bore, so keep some avoid erroneous torque readings that can bearing inserts and the connecting rod or cap downward pressure on the ring compressor. result if the socket is wedged between the when the clearance was measured. Also, Work slowly, and if any resistance is felt as rod cap and the bolt or nut. If the socket recheck the journal diameter. If the Plasti- the piston enters the cylinder, stop immedi- tends to wedge itself between the fastener gage was wider at one end than the other, ately. Find out what's hanging up and fix it and the cap, lift up on it slightly until it no the journal may be tapered (refer to Sec- before proceeding. Do not, for any reason, longer contacts the cap. DO NOT rotate the tion 21). If the clearance still exceeds the limit 'force the piston into the cylinder - you might crankshaft at any time during this operation. specified, the bearing will have to be break a ring and/or the piston. 16 Remove the fasteners and detach the replaced with an undersize bearing. Caution: 12 Once the piston/connecting rod assem- rod cap, being very careful not to disturb the When installing a new crankshaft always use a bly is installed, the connecting rod bearing oil Plastigage. Discard the cap bolts at this time standard size bearing.
    123. 2C-28 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures Final installation 24 After all the piston/connecting rod wires and restore the ignition system func- assemblies have been properly installed, tions. 19 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plasti- rotate the crankshaft a number of times by 4 Start the engine. It may take a few gage material off the rod journal and/or bear- hand to check for any obvious binding. moments for the fuel system to build up pres- ing face. Be very careful not to scratch the 25 As a final step, the connecting rod end- sure, but the engine should start without a bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a play must be checked. Refer to Section 14 great deal of effort. Note: If backfiring occurs plastic card. for this procedure. through the throttle body, recheck the valve 20 Make sure the bearing faces are per- 26 Compare the measured endplay to the timing and spark plug wire locations. fectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of tolerance listed in this Chapter's Specifica- 5 After the engine starts, it should be clean moly-base grease or engine assembly tions to make sure it's acceptable. If it was allowed to warm up to normal operating tem- lube to both of them. You'll have to push the correct before disassembly and the original perature. Try to keep the engine speed at piston into the cylinder to expose the face of crankshaft and rods were reinstalled, it approximately 2000 rpm. While the engine is the bearing insert in the connecting rod. should still be correct. If new rods or a new warming up, make a thorough check for fuel, 21 Caution: On four-cylinder engines, new crankshaft were installed, the endplay may oil and coolant leaks. Check the automatic connecting rod cap bolts must be installed at be inadequate. If so, the rods will have to be transaxle fluid level (if so equipped). this time. DO NOT reuse the old bolts as they removed and taken to an automotive 6 Shut the engine off and recheck the have stretched and cannot be reused. Slide machine shop for resizing. engine oil and coolant levels. the connecting rod back into place on the 7 Drive the vehicle to an area with mini- journal, install the rod cap, install new bolts mum traffic, accelerate from 30 to 50 mph, and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in 27 Initial start-up and break-in after then allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph with this Chapter's Specifications. Again, work up overhaul the throttle closed. Repeat the procedure 10 to the torque in three steps. or 12 times. This will load the piston rings and 22 Repeat the entire procedure for the cause them to seat properly against the cylin- remaining pistons/connecting rods. Warning: Have a fire extinguisher handy der walls. Check again for oil and coolant 23 The important points to remember are: when starting the engine for the first time. leaks. a) Keep the back sides of the bearing 1 Once the engine has been installed in 8 Drive the vehicle gently for the first 500 inserts and the insides of the connecting the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and miles (no sustained high speeds) and keep a rods and caps perfectly clean when coolant levels. Add transaxle fluid as needed. constant check on the oil level. It is not assembling them. 2 With the spark plugs out of the engine unusual for an engine to use oil during the b) Make sure you have the correct and the ignition system disabled (disconnect break-in period. piston/rod assembly for each cylinder. the primary [low voltage] electrical connector 9 At approximately 500 to 600 miles, c) The mark on the piston must face the from the coil pack or distributor see Chap- change the oil and filter. front (timing belt end) of the engine. ter 5), crank the engine until the oil pressure 10 For the next few hundred miles, drive d) Lubricate the cylinder walls liberally with li ght goes out. Caution: Do not crank the the vehicle normally. Do not pamper it or clean oil. engine for more than 15 seconds at a time, as abuse it. e) Lubricate the bearing faces when starter motor could over-heat and damage 11 After 2000 miles, change the oil and fil- installing the rod caps after the oil clear- could occur. ter again and consider the engine broken in. ance has been checked. 3 Install the spark plugs, hook up the plug
    124. 3-1 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Contents Section Section Air conditioning compressor - removal and installation ................. 13 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement ................. See Chapter 1 Air conditioning condenser - removal and installation ................... 15 Engine cooling fans and circuit - check and replacement ............. 4 Air conditioning evaporator and expansion valve - General information ........................................................................ 1 removal and installation ............................................................ 16 Blower motor and circuit - check and replacement ....................... 9 Air conditioning receiver-drier - removal and installation .............. 14 Heater core - replacement ............................................................. 10 Air conditioning and heating system - check Heater/air conditioner control assembly - removal, check and maintenance ...................................................................... 12 and installation.......................................................................... 11 Antifreeze - general information ..................................................... 2 Radiator and coolant reservoir - removal Coolant level check ...........................................................See Chapter 1 and installation .......................................................................... 5 Coolant temperature sending unit - check Thermostat - check and replacement ............................................ 3 and replacement...............................................................................8 Underhood hose check and replacement ........................ See Chapter 1 Cooling system check .......................................................See Chapter 1 Water pump - check .............................................................................. 6 Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing Water pump - replacement .................................................................... 7 and refilling) ................................................................. See Chapter 1 Specifications General Radiator cap pressure rating............................................................................14 to 18 psi 3 Thermostat rating (opening temperature) .........................................................195 degrees F Cooling system capacity ..................................................................................See Chapter 1 Refrigerant capacity .........................................................................................28 ounces Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Thermostat housing bolts/nuts Four-cylinder engines ................................................................................. 110 in-lbs V6 engine .................................................................................................... 168 in-lbs Water pump mounting bolts Four-cylinder engines ................................................................................. 105 in-lbs V6 engine .................................................................................................... 17 The cooling system is sealed by a pres- core to the engine cooling system. Hot engine 1 General information sure-type cap, which raises the boiling point coolant is circulated through the heater core. of the coolant and increases the cooling effi- When the heater mode on the heater/air con- ciency of the system. If the system pressure ditioning control panel on the instrument Engine cooling system exceeds the cap pressure relief value, the panel is activated, a flap door opens to All vehicles covered by this manual excess pressure in the system forces the expose the heater core to the passenger employ a pressurized engine cooling system spring-loaded valve inside the cap off its seat compartment. A fan switch on the control with thermostatically controlled coolant circu- and allows the coolant to escape through the panel activates the blower motor, which lation. An impeller-type water pump mounted overflow tube into a coolant reservoir. When forces air through the core, heating the air. on the front of the engine pumps coolant the system cools the excess coolant is auto- through the engine. The pump mounts matically drawn from the reservoir back into Air conditioning system directly on the engine block. The coolant the radiator. The air conditioning system consists of flows around the combustion chambers and The coolant reservoir does double duty a condenser mounted in front of the radiator, toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in coolant as both the point at which fresh coolant is an evaporator mounted adjacent to the passages direct coolant near the intake ports, added to the cooling system to maintain the heater core, a compressor mounted on the exhaust ports, and spark plug areas. proper fluid level and as a holding tank for engine, receiver/drier which contains a high A wax pellet-type thermostat is located overheated coolant. This type of cooling sys- pressure relief valve and the plumbing con- in a housing near the front of the engine. Dur- tem is known as a closed design because necting all of the above components. ing warm-up, the closed thermostat prevents coolant that escapes past the pressure cap is A blower fan forces the warmer air of the coolant from circulating through the radiator. saved and reused. passenger compartment through the evapo- As the engine nears normal operating tem- rator core, transferring the heat from the air to perature, the thermostat opens and allows Heating system the refrigerant (sort of a "radiator in reverse"). hot coolant to travel through the radiator, The heating system consists of a blower The liquid refrigerant boils off into low pres- where it's cooled before returning to the fan and heater core located in the heater sure vapor, taking the heat with it when it engine. housing, with hoses connecting the heater leaves the evaporator.
    125. 3-2 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system THERMOSTAT HOUSING/ ENGINE OUTLET CONNECTOR 3.10a Thermostat installation details - 2.0L four-cylinder engine 3.10b Thermostat installation details - 2.4L four-cylinder engine 2 Antifreeze - general information Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around 3.10c Thermostat in an open container or in puddles on the installation details - floor; children and pets are attracted by it's V6 engine sweet smell and may drink it. Antifreeze is also flammable, so don't store or use it near open flames. Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many (see Chapter 5, section 1). communities have collection centers which 3 Thermostat - check and 6 Drain the cooling system (see Chap- will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely. replacement ter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in Never dump used anti-freeze on the ground good condition, save it and reuse it. or into drains. 7 Follow the upper radiator hose to the Note: Non-Toxic coolant is available at local Warning: Do not remove the coolant tank cap, drain the coolant or replace the thermo- engine to locate the thermostat housing. auto parts stores. Although the coolant is 8 Loosen the hose clamp, then detach the non-toxic when fresh, proper disposal is still stat until the engine has cooled completely. hose from the fitting. If it's stuck, grasp it required. Check near the end with a pair of adjustable pliers The cooling system should be filled with and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. If a water/ethylene glycol based antifreeze 1 Before assuming the thermostat is to the hose is old or deteriorated, cut it off and solution, which will prevent freezing down to blame for a cooling system problem, check install a new one. at least 20 degrees F, or lower if local climate the coolant level, drivebelt tension (see 9 If the outer surface of the large fitting requires it. It also provides protection against Chapter 1) and temperature gauge operation. that mates with the hose is deteriorated (cor- corrosion and increases the coolant boiling 2 If the engine seems to be taking a long roded, pitted, etc.) it may be damaged further point. ti me to warm up (based on heater output or by hose removal. If it is, the thermostat hous- The cooling system should be drained, temperature gauge operation), the thermostat ing cover will have to be replaced. flushed and refilled at the specified intervals is probably stuck open. Replace the thermo- 10 Remove the fasteners and detach the (see Chapter 1). Old or contaminated stat with a new one. housing cover (see illustrations). If the cover antifreeze solutions are likely to cause dam- 3 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to is stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammer to jar age and encourage the formation of rust and check the temperature of the upper radiator it loose. Be prepared for some coolant to spill scale in the system. Use distilled water with hose. If the hose isn't hot, but the engine is, as the gasket seal is broken. the antifreeze. the thermostat is probably stuck closed, pre- 11 Note how it's installed (which end is fac- Before adding antifreeze, check all hose venting the coolant inside the engine from ing up), then remove the thermostat. connections, because antifreeze tends to leak escaping to the radiator. Replace the thermo- 12 Remove all traces of old gasket material through very minute openings. Engines don't stat. Caution: Don't drive the vehicle without and sealant from the housing and cover with normally consume coolant, so if the level goes a thermostat. The computer may stay in open a gasket scraper. down, find the cause and correct it. loop and emissions and fuel economy will 13 Using a new 0-ring, install the thermo- The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water suffer. stat on the housing, spring-end facing into the which you should use depends on the relative 4 If the upper radiator hose is hot, it engine block and the vent facing up. Install a weather conditions. The mixture should con- means that the coolant is flowing and the new gasket (if equipped) and place it on the tain at least 50 percent antifreeze, but should thermostat is open. Consult the Trou- thermostat housing, lining up the bolt holes. never contain more than 70 percent anti- bleshooting Section at the front of this man- 14 Install the cover and fasteners. Tighten freeze. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the ual for cooling system diagnosis. the fasteners to the torque listed in this antifreeze container before adding coolant. Chapter's Specifications. Hydrometers are available at most auto parts Replacement 15 Reattach the hose to the fitting and stores to test the coolant. Use antifreeze that Refer to illustrations 3.10a, 3.10b and 3.10c tighten the hose clamp securely. meets the vehicle manufacturer's specifica- 5 Disconnect the negative battery cable 16 Refill the cooling system (see Chap- tions. from the ground stud on the left shock tower ter 1).
    126. Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-3 4.1a The high-speed and low-speed fans are mounted in one housing, with a harness connecting them to the 4.l b Disconnect the fan connector (arrow) and try operating the RFI module (arrow) fan with a fused battery-voltage jumper wire and a ground wire 17 Start the engine and allow it to reach a three-pin connector on the high-speed fan normal operating temperature, then check for (see illustrations). leaks and proper thermostat operation (as 2 If the motor is OK, but the cooling fan described in Steps 2 through 4). See Chap- doesn't come on when the engine gets hot, ter 1 for cooling system air-bleeding proce- the fault may be in the coolant temperature dure. sensor in the thermostat housing, the fan relays, the engine control computer or the wiring which connects the components. 4 Engine cooling fans and circuit - 3 The engine coolant temperature sensor check and replacement is located in the thermostat housing and varies resistance with temperature to signal the PCM (see illustration). A test for check- Warning: To avoid possible injury or damage, ing the sensor is found in Chapter 6. DO NOT operate the engine with a damaged 4 Remove the fan relays (one low-speed fan. Do not attempt to repair fan blades - and one high-speed relay) from the Power replace a damaged fan with a new one. Distribution Center. Using an ohmmeter, Note: Always be sure to check for blown measure the resistance between terminals A 4.3 The coolant temperature sensor fuses before attempting to diagnose an elec- and C of the relay (see illustration), it should (arrow) is located at the front of the trical circuit problem. read approximately 75 ohms. Check for con- engine, next to the thermostat tinuity between terminals B and D, there Check should be no continuity. Using fused jumper Refer to illustrations 4.1a, 4. lb, 4.3, and 4.4 wires, apply battery voltage (+) to terminal A Replacement 1 If the engine is overheating and the and ground (-) terminal C; the relay should Refer to illustrations 4.7, 4.8a, 4.8b, 4.9 and cooling fan is not coming on, unplug the elec- "click" and continuity should be indicated 4.10 trical connector at the motor and use fused between terminals B and D. 6 Disconnect the negative battery cable jumper wires to connect the fan directly to 5 Carefully check all wiring and connec- from the ground stud on the left shock tower the battery. If the fan still doesn't work, tions (wiring diagrams are included at the end (see Chapter 5, Section 1). Disconnect the replace the motor. test each motor sepa- of Chapter 12). If no obvious problems are fan motor electrical connector (see illustra- rately. They are connected to an RFI module found, further diagnosis should be done by a tion 4.1a). (Radio Frequency Interference), with the low- dealer service department or repair shop with 7 Remove the upper radiator crossmem- speed motor having a two-pin connector and the proper diagnostic equipment. ber, either detaching the four bolts and laying 4.4 Cooling fan relay terminal guide - there should be continuity 4.7 Remove the four bolts and the isolators on the upper radiator between A and C, and no continuity between B and D unless crossmember (arrows) - if necessary, remove the bolts securing battery power is applied to A and ground applied to C the shroud and remove the shroud
    127. 3-4 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 4.8a Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts (arrows) 4.8b Detach the wire harness from the shroud it aside, or also removing the two bolts to the latch and removing the crossmember entirely (see illustration). 8 Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts, detach the clips at the top and bottom of the shroud with a small screwdriver, detach the wire harness clips from the shroud, then carefully lift the fan assembly out of the engine compartment (see illustrations). Note: It is easier to remove the fan assembly if the upper radiator hose is disconnected first from the radiator. 9 To detach the fan blade from the motor, remove the nut or retaining clip from the motor shaft (see illustration). Remove the fan blade from the motor. 10 To detach the motor from the shroud, remove the retaining nuts or screws (see 4.9 The fan blade is retained to the motor 4.10 To remove the fan motor from the illustration). Remove the motor from the with either a nut or a clip (arrow) shroud, remove the three screws (arrows) shroud. 11 Installation is the reverse of removal. near the end with a pair of adjustable pliers fittings or remove any components until after Note: When reinstalling the fan assembly, and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off - the system has been discharged by a dealer make sure the rubber air shields around the service department or service station. Always assembly are still in place - without them, the be careful not to distort the radiator fittings! If the hoses are old or deteriorated, cut them wear eye protection when disconnecting air cooling system may not work efficiently. off and install new ones. conditioning system fittings. 9 Carefully lift out the radiator. Don't spill 6 Disconnect and plug the transmission coolant on the vehicle or scratch the paint. fluid cooler lines (see illustration). 5 Radiator and coolant reservoir - 10 Check the radiator for leaks and dam- 7 Remove the two upper radiator-to-body removal and installation age. If it needs repair, have a radiator shop or mounting bolts. At this point, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, there are two Warning: Wait until the engine is completely ways to remove the radiator. If the condenser cool before beginning this procedure. is staying in the vehicle, remove the four con- denser-to-radiator mounting screws (acces- Radiator sible through the lower openings in the front Removal of the body) and the one screw in the air con- ditioning line on the passenger side, and the Refer to illustration 5.6 radiator can be pulled up. Note: Make sure 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable the rubber radiator insulators (they fit on the from the ground stud on the left shock tower bottom of the radiator and into sockets in the (see Chapter 5, Section 1). body) remain in place in the body for proper 2 Drain the cooling system (see Chap- reinstallation of the radiator. ter 1). If the coolant is relatively new and in 8 If the condenser is being removed (and good condition, save it and reuse it. the air conditioning system has already been 3 Remove the upper radiator crossmem- evacuated of refrigerant), disconnect the ber and cooling fan assembly (see Section 4). condenser lines (see Section 15) and remove 4 Disconnect the overflow hose from the the radiator and condenser as a unit, separat- radiator filler neck. ing the two components outside of the vehi- 5 Loosen the hose clamps, then detach cle where the fasteners are easier to get at. the upper and lower coolant hoses from the Warning: The air conditioning system is radiator. If they're stuck, grasp each hose 5.6 Detach the transmission cooler lines under high pressure. Do not loosen any hose
    128. Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-5 the hoses to prevent leakage. on jackstands. 18 Remove the reservoir retaining bolt and 3 Remove the right inner splash shield lift the reservoir out of the engine compart- (see Chapter 11). ment (see illustration). 4 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1). 19 Installation is the reverse of removal. 5 Drain the cooling system (see Chap- While the reservoir is off the vehicle, it should ter 1). be cleaned with soapy water and a brush to 6 Using a floorjack (with a wood block remove any deposits inside. placed between the jackhead and the oil pan to prevent engine damage), support the engine from underneath and remove the right engine mount. 6 Water pump - check 7 Remove the power steering pump bracket bolts and move the power steering 1 A failure in the water pump can cause pump and bracket aside. The power steering serious engine damage due to overheating. li nes do not have to be disconnected. 2 There are three ways to check the oper- 8 Remove the right engine mount bracket ation of the water pump while it's installed on (see Chapter 2). 5.18 Remove the mounting bolt and the engine. If the pump is defective, it should 9 Remove the timing belt (see Chapter 2). remove the coolant reservoir from the be replaced with a new or rebuilt unit. 10 Remove the inner timing belt cover (see vehicle for cleaning or replacement 3 Water pumps are equipped with weep Chapter 2). or vent holes. If a failure occurs in the pump 11 Remove the bolts attaching the water seal, coolant will leak from the hole. In most pump to the engine block and remove the dealer service department perform the work, cases you'll need a flashlight to find the hole pump. as special techniques are required. on the water pump from underneath to check 12 Install a new 0-ring in the water pump 11 Remove bugs and dirt from the radiator for leaks. Note: Some small black staining body groove (see illustration). with compressed air and a soft brush (don't around the weep hole is normal. If the stain is 13 Installation is the reversal of removal. bend the cooling fins). heavy brown or actual coolant is evident, Tighten the mounting bolts to the torque Installation replace the pump. li sted in this Chapter's specifications. 12 Inspect the radiator mounts for deterio- 4 If the water pump shaft bearings fail 14 Reinstall the pulleys and drive belts and there may be a howling sound at the front of check for tension (see Chapter 1). ration and ensure they are clean of dirt or gravel when the radiator is installed. the engine while it's running. With the engine 15 Refill the cooling system (see Chap- off, shaft wear can be felt if the water pump ter 1). Run the engine and check for leaks. 13 Installation is the reverse of the removal 3 pulley is rocked up-and-down. Don't mistake procedure. Make sure the radiator is properly seated on the lower mounting insulators drivebelt slippage, which causes a squealing V6 engine sound, for water pump bearing failure. before fastening the top brackets. Refer to illustrations 7.18 and 7.21 5 A quick water pump performance check 14 After installation, fill the cooling system 16 Disconnect the negative battery cable with the proper mixture of antifreeze and is to put the heater on. If the pump is failing, it from the ground stud on the left shock tower won't be able to efficiently circulate hot water water (see Chapter 1). (see Chapter 5, Section 1). Remove the drive- all the way to the heater core as it should. 15 Start the engine and check for leaks. belts and drain the cooling system (see Allow the engine to reach normal operating Chapter 1). temperature, indicated by the upper radiator 17 Refer to Chapter 2, Part B and remove hose becoming hot. Recheck the coolant 7 Water pump - replacement the crankshaft damper/pulley, timing belt level and add more if required. covers and timing belt. 16 If you're working on an automatic 18 Remove the water pump mounting bolts transaxle equipped vehicle, check and add Four-cylinder engines (see illustration). fluid as needed. Refer to illustration 7.12 19 Separate the pump from the water inlet 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable pipe and remove the pump. Coolant reservoir from the ground stud on the left shock tower 20 Clean all the gasket and 0-ring surfaces Refer to illustration 5.18 (see Chapter 5, Section 1). on the pump and the water pipe inlet tube. 17 Detach the hoses at the reservoir. Plug 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely 21 Install a new 0-ring on the water inlet 7.12 Install a new 0-ring onto the water pump 7.18 Remove the water pump bolts (arrows) - V6 engine
    129. 3-6 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system out may be due to a grounded wire between source of battery voltage. If the blower does- the light and the sending unit, a defective n't operate, it is faulty. sending unit or a faulty ignition switch. See 7 If voltage was not present at the blower Chapter 6 for a diagnostic check of the motor at all speeds, and the motor itself coolant temperature switch. Check the cool- tested OK, the problem is in the blower motor ant to make sure it's the proper type. Note: resistor, the blower switch in the control Plain water may have too low a boiling point panel assembly or the related wiring. To to activate the sending unit. check the resistor, remove the two screws and remove the resistor from the heater Replacement housing. Using an ohmmeter, check for con- Warning: Wait until the engine is completely tinuity across each of the resistor terminals cool before beginning this procedure. (see illustration). If an open circuit is indi- 6 Disconnect the electrical connector cated, replace the resistor assembly. To test from the sensor. the blower switch, refer to Section 11, 7 Wrap the threads of the new sensor with remove the control panel assembly and Teflon tape to prevent leaks. check for continuity through the switch in 8 Unscrew the sensor. Be prepared for each position. Refer to the wiring diagrams at some coolant spillage (read the Warning in the end of Chapter 12 to determine the cor- Section 2). rect terminals for testing. 7.21 Install a new 0-ring on the water inlet pipe (arrow) 9 Install the sensor and tighten it securely. 10 Connect the electrical connector. Replacement 11 Check the coolant level after the Refer to illustration 9.11 pipe (see illustration). Wet the 0-ring with replacement unit has been installed and top 8 Disconnect the battery negative cable water to facilitate assembly. up the system, if necessary (see Chapter 1). from the ground stud on the left shock tower 22 Install a new gasket on the water pump Check now for proper operation of the gauge (see Chapter 5, Section 1). and install the inlet opening over the water and sending unit. Observe the system for 9 Detach the panel underneath the right pipe. Press the water pipe into the pump leaks after operation. housing. 23 Install the water pump mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in 9 Blower motor and circuit - check this Chapter's specifications. and replacement 24 Install the timing belt (see Chapter 2B). 25 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Warning: These models are equipped with airbags, always disable the airbag system 26 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1) and operate the engine to check for leaks. before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel to avoid the possibility of accidental deploy- ment of the airbag, which could cause per- 8 Coolant temperature sending sonal injury (see Chapter 12). unit - check and replacement Check Warning: Wait until the engine is completely Refer to illustrations 9.3 and 9.7 cool before beginning this procedure. 1 Check the fuse and all connections in 9.3 Using suitable probes, backprobe the the circuit for looseness and corrosion. Make Check sure the battery is fully charged. blower harness plug (twisted pair of wires) at the blower motor resistor block - 1 The coolant temperature indicator sys- 2 Remove the lower right dash insulator tem is composed of a light or temperature connect a voltmeter to the dark blue wire panel (below the glove box) for access to the gauge mounted in the dash and a coolant (+) and black wire (-), voltage should vary blower motor. Note: When reinstalling this as the blower switch is moved through temperature sending unit mounted on the panel, be sure the left end fits properly into its engine (see illustration 4.3). On the models each position recess in the ducting. covered by this manual, there is only one 3 Using suitable probes, backprobe the coolant temperature sensor, which functions blower motor electrical connector at the as indicator to both the PCM and the instru- resistor and connect the positive probe of the ment panel. voltmeter to the dark blue wire and the nega- 2 If an overheating indication occurs, tive probe to the black wire (see illustration). check the coolant level in the system and 4 With the transmission in Park, the park- then make sure the wiring between the light ing brake securely set, turn the ignition or gauge and the sending unit is secure and switch On. It isn't necessary to start the vehi- all fuses are intact. cle. 3 When the ignition switch is turned on 5 Move the blower switch through each of and the starter motor is turning, the indicator its positions and note the voltage readings. li ght (if equipped) should be on (overheated Changes in voltage indicate that the motor engine indication). speeds will also vary as the switch is moved 4 If the light is not on, the bulb may be to the different positions. burned out, the ignition switch may be faulty 6 If there is voltage present, but the or the circuit may be open. blower motor does not operate, the blower 9.7 To test the blower resistor, check for 5 As soon as the engine starts, the light motor is probably faulty. Disconnect the should go out and remain out unless the continuity at each of the blower motor connector and hook one side to resistor terminals engine overheats. Failure of the light to go a chassis ground and the other to a fused
    130. Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-7 10.2 Disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall 9.11 Remove the screws retaining the blower motor to the heater housing (arrow) 3 10.6 Remove the heater core cover 10.7 Withdraw the heater core from the housing end of the dash. It has four fasteners, all of wall (see illustration). Note: On V6 models, it 7 Withdraw the heater core from the hous- them facing up - two screws in front (side may be necessary to remove the upper intake ing (see illustration). toward the passenger seat) and two sheet manifold to access the heater hoses (see 8 If the heater core has been leaking, metal nuts on the backside (toward the Chapter 2B). clean the coolant from the heater/air condi- firewall). 3 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the tioning housing. Note: If a significant amount 10 Disconnect the wiring connector at the radio/air conditioning control panel bezel, the of coolant has leaked into the housing, it is blower motor resistor. instrument panel bezel and end covers and recommended that the complete heater/air 11 Remove the screws retaining the blower the knee bolster. conditioning housing be removed from the motor to the heater housing (see illustra- 4 Remove the center console from the vehicle, disassembled and thoroughly tion). vehicle (see Chapter 11). cleaned (see Section 16). housing 12 Lower the blower motor from the 5 Remove two screws at the lower right 9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be . side support beam, the bolt for the instru- sure to refill the cooling system (see Chap- 13 The fan is balanced with the blower ment panel support at the A-pillar and ter 1). motor, and is available only as an assembly. remove the right side instrument panel sup- f the fan is damaged, both fan and blower port strut. motor must be replaced. 6 Remove the heater core cover screws 11 Heater/air conditioner control 14 Installation is the reverse of removal. and the cover (see illustration). assembly - removal, check and installation TRIM 10 Heater core - replacement BEZEL Warning: These models are equipped with airbags, always disable the airbag system Refer to illustrations 10.2, 10.6 and 10.7 before working in the vicinity of the impact Warning: These models are equipped with sensors, steering column or instrument panel airbags, always disable the airbag system to avoid the possibility of accidental deploy- before working in the vicinity of the impact ment of the airbag, which could cause per- sensors, steering column or instrument panel sonal injury (see Chapter 12). •o avoid the possibility of accidental deploy-ment of the airbag, which could cause Removal personal injury (see Chapter 12). Refer to illustrations 11.2, 11.3 and 11.7 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1) 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable and disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower 'from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 11.2 Remove the radio/control see Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Remove the trim bezel from the instru- module bezel 2 Disconnect the heater hoses at the fire - ment panel (see illustration).
    131. 3-8 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3 Remove the three cluster hood screws from the trim bezel opening (see illustra- tion). 4 Pry up the cluster hood bezel a few inches to expose the cubby bin screws. 5 Disconnect the wiring and remove the cubby bin. 6 Remove the control module screws (see illustration 11.3). 7 Lower the control module into the cubby bin opening (see illustration) and disconnect the wiring harness from the rear of the control module. c) Pull the cable housing away from the f) Check the evaporator housing drain 8 Release the cable clips from the top of the control module. Retain the clips for fur- cable end to remove all freeplay and clip tube for blockage. ther use. Disconnect the temperature control the cable housing to the control module. 2 It's a good idea to operate the system and the recirculation control cables. d) Verify the knob travels through its full for about 10 minutes at least once a month, 9 Remove the control module. range. particularly during the winter. Long term non- use can cause hardening, and subsequent Check failure, of the seals. Refer to illustration 11.11 3 Because of the complexity of the air con- 12 Air conditioning and heating ditioning system and the special equipment 10 Remove the control module (see Steps system - check and maintenance above). necessary to service it, in-depth troubleshoot- ing and repairs are not included in this manual 11 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resis- Warning: The air conditioning system is (refer to the Haynes Automotive Heating and tance between terminals 5 and 8 of the con- under high pressure. Do not loosen any hose Air Conditioning Repair Manual). However. trol module 8-way connector (see illustra- fittings or remove any components until after simple checks and component replacement tion). Turn the control module to each posi- the system has been discharged by a dealer procedures are provided in this Chapter. tion and check the resistance as follows: service department or air conditioning service 4 The most common cause of poor cool- a) PANEL = 828 to 856 ohms station. Always wear eye protection when dis- ing is simply a low system refrigerant charge. b) BI-LEVEL = 1280 to 1300 ohms connecting air conditioning system fittings. If a noticeable drop in cool air output occurs. c) FLOOR = 2300 to 2358 ohms 1 The following maintenance checks the following quick check will help you deter- d) MIX = 5200 to 5300 ohms should be performed on a regular basis to mine if the refrigerant level is low. e) DEFROST = 99 to 100 K-ohms ensure the air conditioner continues to oper- 12 If any resistance is not correct, replace ate at peak efficiency. Checking the refrigerant the control module. 13 If the resistance's are correct, check for a) Check the compressor drivebelt. If it's charge worn or deteriorated, replace it (see Warm the engine up to normal operating blown fuses, damaged wiring, bad connec- 5 Chapter 1). temperature. tions, defective Body Control Module (BCM) or b) Check the drivebelt tension and, if nec- 6 Place the air conditioning temperature bulkhead connector. Refer to the wiring dia - essary, adjust it (see Chapter 1). selector at the coldest setting and the blower grams at the end of Chapter 12, if necessary. c) Check the system hoses. Look for at the highest setting. Open the doors (to 14 Further testing of the system can be cracks, bubbles, hard spots and deterio- accomplished with the use of a special scan make sure the air conditioning system does ration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings not cycle off as soon as it cools the passen- tool; see a dealer or other qualified repair for oil bubbles and seepage. If there's ger compartment). shop. any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, 7 With the compressor engaged - the replace the hose(s). clutch will make an audible click and the cen- Installation d) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves, ter of the clutch will rotate - note the temper- 15 Installation is the reverse of removal. If bugs and other debris. Use a "fin comb" ature of the compressor inlet and discharge necessary, adjust the cables as follows: or compressed air to clean the con- li nes. If the compressor discharge line feels a) Attach the cable to the control module denser. warm and the compressor inlet pipe feels lever. e) Make sure the system has the correct cool, the system is properly charged. b) Rotate the knob fully counterclockwise. refrigerant charge. 8 Place a thermometer in the dashboard
    132. Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-9 If the system is leaking, the red dye will leak down to approximately 40 degrees F. If the out with the refrigerant and help you pinpoint ambient (outside) air temperature is very high, the location of the leak. Caution: There are say 110 degrees F, the duct air temperature two types of refrigerant used in automotive may be as high as 60 degrees F, but gener- systems; R-12 - which has been widely used ally the air conditioning is 30 to 40 degrees F on earlier models and the more environmen- cooler than the ambient air. tally-friendly R-134a used in all models cov- 16 When the can is empty, turn the valve ered by this manual. These two refrigerants handle to the closed position and release the (and their appropriate refrigerant oils) are not connection from the low-side port. Replace compatible and must never be mixed or com- the dust cap. Warning: Never add more than ponents will be damaged. Use only R-134a two cans of refrigerant to the system. refrigerant in the models covered by this 17 Remove the charging kit from the can manual. and store the kit for future use with the pierc- 10 Hook up the charging kit by following ing valve in the UP position, to prevent inad- the manufacturer's instructions. Warning: vertently piercing the can on the next use. DO NOT hook the charging kit hose to the system high side! The fittings on the charging kit are designed to fit only on the low side of 13 Air conditioning compressor - the system. 12.12 Cans of R-134A refrigerant are removal and installation 11 Back off the valve handle on the charg- available in auto parts stores that can be ing kit and screw the kit onto the refrigerant added to your system with a simple Warning: The air conditioning system is can, making sure first that the 0-ring or rub- recharging kit ber seal inside the threaded portion of the kit under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble is in place. Warning: Wear protective eye- any part of the system (hoses, compressor, vent nearest the evaporator and operate the line fittings, etc.) until after the system has wear when dealing with pressurized refriger- system until the indicated temperature is been evacuated and the refrigerant recovered ant cans. around 40 to 45 degrees F. If the ambient by a dealer service department or air condi- 12 Remove the dust cap from the low-side (outside) air temperature is very high, say 110 tioning service station. charging connection and attach the quick- degrees F, the duct air temperature may be Note: The filter-drier/receiver-drier (see Sec- connect fitting on the kit hose (see illustra- as high as 60 degrees F, but generally the air tion 14) should be replaced whenever the tion). conditioning is 30-50 degrees F cooler than compressor is replaced. 13 Warm up the engine and turn on the air the ambient air. Note: Humidity of the ambi- conditioner. Keep the charging kit hose away Removal ent air also affects the cooling capacity of the from the fan and other moving parts. Note: 3 system. Higher ambient humidity lowers the Refer to illustrations 13.3, 13.5 and 13.6 The charging process requires the compres- effectiveness of the air conditioning system. 1 Have the system discharged (see the sor to be running. 14 Turn the valve handle on the kit until the Warning at the beginning of this Section). Adding refrigerant stem pierces the can, then back the handle 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable Refer to illustration 12.12 out to release the refrigerant. You should be from the ground stud on the left shock tower 9 Buy an automotive charging kit at an able to hear the rush of gas. Add refrigerant to (see Chapter 5, Section 1). auto parts store. A charging kit includes a 14- the low side of the system until both the 3 Unplug the electrical connector from the ounce can of refrigerant, a tap valve and a receiver-drier surface and the evaporator inlet compressor clutch (see illustration). short section of hose that can be attached pipe feel about the same temperature. Allow 4 Remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1). between the tap valve and the system low stabilization time between each addition. 5 Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the side service valve. Because one can of refrig- 15 If you have an accurate thermometer, compressor (see illustration). Plug the open erant may not be sufficient to bring the sys- you can place it in the center air conditioning fittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture. tem charge up to the proper level, it's a good duct inside the vehicle and keep track of the 6 Unbolt the compressor from the mount- idea to buy an additional can. Make sure that "conditioned" air temperature. A charged ing bracket (see illustration) and lift it out of one of the cans contains red refrigerant dye. system that is working properly should cool the vehicle. 13.3 Unplug the electrical connector 13.5 Remove the retaining bolts, detach 13.6 To detach the compressor from its (arrow) from the compressor clutch and plug the refrigerant lines at mounting bracket, remove these the compressor bolts (arrows)
    133. 3-10 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 14.4 Using a back-up wrench to prevent 15.4 Remove the upper radiator 15.5 Using the appropriate quick-connect damage to the fittings, disconnect the support crossmember coupling tool, disconnect the air refrigerant lines (arrows) from the conditioner condenser lines (A) from the receiver-drier condenser and remove the (see Chapter 5, Section 1). mounting bolts (B) 4 Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the Installation receiver-drier (see illustration). Use a back- 7 If a new compressor is being installed, up wrench to prevent twisting the tubing coupling tools (available at auto parts stores), pour out the oil from the old compressor into where it joins the condenser. disconnect and cap the air conditioning lines a graduated container and add that amount 5 Plug the open fittings to prevent entry of at the condenser (see illustration). of new refrigerant oil to the new compressor. dirt and moisture. 6 Remove the radiator fan module mounts. Also follow any directions included with the Remove the bracket bolt at the base of 7 Remove the condenser line support 6 new compressor. the receiver/drier. Spread the aluminum bracket. 8 The clutch may have to be transferred clamp and remove the receiver/drier. 8 Remove the condenser mounting bolts from the original to the new compressor. (see illustration 15.5). 9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Installation 9 Remove the condenser from the vehicle. Replace all 0-rings with new ones specifi- cally made for use with R-134a refrigerant 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. If a Installation new receiver-drier is being installed add one and lubricate them with R-134a-compatible 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. If a ounce of refrigerant oil to it before installa- refrigerant oil. new condenser is being installed add one tion. 10 Have the system evacuated, recharged ounce of refrigerant oil to it before installa- 8 Take the vehicle back to the shop that and leak tested by the shop that discharged tion. discharged it. Have the system evacuated, it. 11 Take the vehicle back to the shop that recharged and leak tested. discharged it. Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested. 14 Air conditioning receiver-drier - removal and installation 15 Air conditioning condenser - removal and installation 16 Air conditioning evaporator and Warning: The air conditioning system is expansion valve - removal and under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble Warning: The air conditioning system is installation any part of the system (hose, compressor, under high pressure. Do not loosen any hose line fittings, etc.) until after the system has fittings or remove any components until after Warning 1: These models are equipped with been evacuated and the refrigerant recovered the system has been discharged by a dealer airbags, always disable the airbag system by a dealer service department or air condi- service department or air conditioning service before working in the vicinity of the impact tioning service station. station. Always wear eye protection when dis- sensors, steering column or instrument panel Caution: Replacement filter-drier/receiver- connecting air conditioning system compo- to avoid the possibility of accidental deploy- drier units are so effective at absorbing mois- nents. ment of the airbag, which could cause per- ture that they can quickly saturate upon expo- Note: The receiver-drier should be replaced sonal injury (see Chapter 12). sure to the atmosphere. When installing a whenever the condenser is replaced (see Warning 2: The air conditioning system is new unit, have all tools and supplies ready for section 14). under high pressure. Do not loosen any hose quick reassembly to avoid having the system fittings or remove any components until after open any longer than necessary. Removal the system has been discharged by a dealer Refer to illustrations 15.4 and 15.5 service department or air conditioning service Removal 1 Have the system discharged (see the station. Always wear eye protection when dis- Refer to illustration 14.4 Warning at the beginning of this Section). connecting air conditioning system compo- 1 The receiver-drier acts as a reservoir for 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable nents. the system refrigerant. It's located on the from the ground stud on the left shock tower Note: Evaporator removal on these models is right side of the engine compartment, next to (see Chapter 5, Section 1). a difficult undertaking for the home mechanic. the radiator and condenser. 3 Remove the radiator grille (see Chap- It can be done, but it requires discharging the 2 Have the system discharged (see the ter 11). air conditioning system, disconnecting the Warning at the beginning of this Section). 4 Remove the upper radiator support passenger airbag system and a great many 3 Disconnect the negative battery cable crossmember (see illustration). wiring connectors under the dash and remov- from the ground stud on the left shock tower 5 Using the appropriate quick-connect ing the complete instrument panel assembly.
    134. Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-11 16.3 Disconnect and cap the refrigerant 16.15 Remove the evaporator probe from 16.17 Remove the clips retaining the two li nes from the expansion valve the evaporator core housing sections EVAPORATOR HOUSING 3 HEATER DISTRIBUTION HOUSING 16.18b . . . and separate the heater housing from the 16.18a Pull the two sections apart .. . evaporator housing The air conditioning evaporator is contained Installation from the expansion valve (see above). in a two-piece housing which must be 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. 11 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the removed from under the dash and separated complete instrument, panel assembly. Install new 0-ring seals on the expansion into two halves. valve and lubricate them with R-134a-com- 12 Remove the center air distribution ducts patible refrigerant oil prior to installation. from the heater/air conditioning housing. Expansion valve 6 Take the vehicle back to the shop that 13 Disconnect any wiring harness connec- Note: The expansion valve can be replaced discharged it. Have the system evacuated, tors attached to the housing. without removing the evaporator from the recharged and leak tested. 14 Remove the bolts securing the heat- vehicle or removed along with the evaporator. er/air conditioning housing to the bulkhead Evaporator and carefully remove the housing from the Removal vehicle. Refer to illustration 16.3 Removal 15 Using a screwdriver, pry the locking tab 1 Have the system discharged (see the Refer to illustrations 16.15, 16.17, 16.18a, off the evaporator probe. Twist the evapora- Warning at the beginning of this Section). 16.18b and 16.20 tor probe access cover 1/4-turn clockwise 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable 7 Have the system discharged (see the and remove the cover. Carefully withdraw the from the ground stud on the left shock tower Warning at the beginning of this Section). evaporator probe from the evaporator core (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 8 Disconnect the negative battery cable (see illustration). 3 Remove the security clips from expan- from the ground stud on the left shock tower 16 Remove the recirculating door inlet sion valve refrigerant line quick-connect fit- (see Chapter 5, Section 1). cover. tings. Using the appropriate quick-connect 9 Drain the cooling system. Disconnect 17 Remove the clips retaining the housing coupling tools (available at auto parts stores), the heater hoses from the heater core at the sections together (see illustration). disconnect and cap the air conditioning lines firewall (see Section 10). Cap the heater core 18 Separate the evaporator housing from at the expansion valve (see illustration). fittings to prevent spilling coolant on the inte- the heater/distribution housing (see illustra- 4 Remove the retaining bolts and separate rior when the housing is removed. tions). the expansion valve from the evaporator. 10 Disconnect and cap the refrigerant lines 19 Remove the seal around the evaporator
    135. 3-12 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system tube inlet. 20 Remove the evaporator housing upper EVAPORATOR cover (see illustration). HOUSING 21 Withdraw the evaporator core from the COVER housing. Installation Note: When installing a new evaporator, always use a new gasket on the expansion valve (see illustration) and reinstall the tem- perature sensor from the old core into the new core before installation. 22 Installation is the reverse of removal. If a 16.20 Remove the new evaporator is being installed, add one evaporator housing ounce of new, R-134a-compatible refrigerant upper cover oil into it prior to installation. 23 Take the vehicle back to the shop that discharged it. Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested.
    136. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems Contents Section Fuel pressure relief procedure ............................................................... 2 Accelerator cable - replacement ..........................................................10 Fuel pump module - removal and installation........................................7 Air cleaner assembly - removal and installation ................................... 9 Fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator - check............................................3 Air filter - replacement ...................................................... See Chapter 1 Fuel rail and injectors - check, removal and installation ......................16 CHECK ENGINE light........................................................See Chapter 6 Fuel tank - removal and installation ....................................................... 5 Exhaust system servicing - general information .................................. 18 Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information .............................. 6 Fuel filter - removal and installation ..................................................... 15 General information ................................................................................1 Fuel injection system - general check ................................................. 12 Idle Air Control (IAC) motor - check and replacement ......................... 17 Fuel injection system - general information ......................................... 11 Quick-connect fittings and fuel lines - disassembly, assembly Fuel level sending unit - check and replacement .................................. 8 and replacement...............................................................................4 Fuel pressure regulator and fuel inlet strainer - replacement .............. 14 Throttle body - check, removal and installation ...................................13 4 Specifications General Fuel pressure................................................................................................... 47 to 51 psi Fuel injector resistance (approximate) ............................................................. 12 to 15 ohms @ 68-degrees F Fuel level sending unit resistance (approximate) Full position.................................................................................................50 ohms (minimum) Empty position ............................................................................................ 1040 to 1060 ohms Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Fuel rail mounting bolts Four-cylinder engines.................................................................................200 in-lbs V6 engine .................................................................................................... 106 in-lbs Fuel tank drain plug ......................................................................................... 32 in-lbs Fuel tank strap bolts........................................................................................ 44 Idle Air Control motor-to-throttle body screws ................................................25 in-lbs Throttle body mounting bolts Four-cylinder engines ................................................................................. 200 in-lbs V6 engine ....................................................................................................250 in-lbs sequence, to the intake ports. It also controls part of the fuel pump/fuel level sending unit 1 General information the engine idle speed via the idle air control and also located inside the fuel tank. Regu- motor which is mounted to the throttle body. lated fuel is sent to the fuel rail and excess The vehicles covered by this manual are All models are equipped with an electric fuel is bled off directly into the fuel tank. equipped with a sequential Multi-Port Fuel fuel pump which is located inside the fuel The exhaust system consists of the Injection (MPFI) system. This system uses tank. It is necessary to remove the fuel tank exhaust manifold(s), a catalytic converter, an ti med impulses to sequentially inject the fuel to gain access to the fuel pump. The fuel level exhaust pipe and a muffler. Each of these directly into the intake ports of each cylinder. sending unit is an integral component of the components is replaceable. For further infor- The injectors are controlled by the Powertrain fuel pump and it must be removed from the mation regarding the catalytic converter, refer Control Module (PCM). The PCM monitors fuel tank in the same manner. These vehicles to Chapter 6. various engine parameters and delivers the are equipped with a "returnless" fuel system. exact amount of fuel, in the correct In this system the fuel pressure regulator is
    137. 4-2 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 2.3 The fuel pump module electrical connector is located in the 3.4 On four-cylinder engines, connect a fuel pressure gauge to trunk, under the mat near the base of the left shock tower the fuel rail at the test port area for leaks. sound should now be continuous (although 2 Fuel pressure relief procedure 7 Install the fuel filler cap and tighten it harder to hear with the engine running). If securely. Note: If the fuel filler cap seal allows there is no sound, either the fuel pump fuses, Refer to illustration 2.3 the fuel tank pressure to escape because of a fuel pump, fuel pump relay, automatic shut- Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, damaged seal or it has not been tightened down (ASD) relay or related circuits are so take extra precautions when you work on sufficiently, the CHECK ENGINE light will illu- defective (proceed to Step 15). any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or minate on the instrument panel. allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the System pressure check work area, and don't work in a garage where Refer to illustrations 3.4 and 3.5 a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water 3 Fuel pump/fuel pressure 3 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- heater or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light is regulator - check dure (see Section 2). present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear 4 On four-cylinder engines, remove the latex gloves when there's a possibility of Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, cap from the fuel pressure test port (Schrader being exposed to fuel, and if you spill any on so take extra precautions when you work on valve fitting) on the fuel rail and attach a fuel your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap any part of the fuel system (see the Warning pressure gauge (see illustration). and water. Mop up any spills immediately and in Section 2). 5 On V6 engines, the fuel supply line is not do not store fuel-soaked rags where they Note 1: These vehicles are equipped with a equipped with a fuel pressure test port could ignite. The fuel system is under con- "returnless" fuel system in which the fuel (Schrader valve fitting). A special fuel pres- stant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are to be pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump sure test adapter (factory tool No. 6539 or disconnected, the pressure must be relieved module and located inside the fuel tank. equivalent) must be installed between the fuel first. When you perform any kind of work on Note 2: The fuel pump will operate as long as supply line and the fuel rail. Disconnect the the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have the engine is cranking or running and the fuel supply line from the fuel rail (see Sec- a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. PCM is receiving ignition reference pulses tion 4) and install the fuel pressure test 1 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve the from the electronic ignition system. If there adapter between the supply line and the fuel fuel tank pressure. are no reference pulses, the fuel pump will rail (see illustration). Attach a fuel pressure 2 Working inside the trunk, fold back the shut off after approximately 1 second. gauge to the test adapter fitting. trunk mat near the base of the left shock Note 3: To perform the fuel pressure check, 6 Start the engine and observe the pres- tower. you will need to obtain a fuel pressure gauge sure reading on the gauge. Compare it with 3 Locate the fuel pump electrical connec- and adapter set (fuel line fittings). On V6 the pressure listed in this Chapter's Specifi- tor and disconnect it from the wiring harness engines, the fuel supply line is not equipped cations. (see illustration). with a fuel pressure test port (Schrader valve 7 If the fuel pressure is higher than speci- 4 Next, start the engine and allow it to run fitting). A special fuel pressure test adapter fied, check for a kinked or restricted fuel line until it stops. This should only take a few sec- (factory tool No. 6539 or equivalent) must be between the fuel filter and fuel pump module. onds. Crank the engine again, to ensure the installed between the fuel supply line and the If the line is OK, replace the fuel pressure reg- fuel pressure is completely relieved. Before fuel rail. ulator (see Section 14). working on any part of the fuel system, dis- 8 If the fuel pressure is lower than speci- connect the negative battery cable from the Preliminary check fied, replace the fuel filter (see Section 15) ground stud on the left shock tower (see Note: On all models, the fuel pump is located and perform the pressure check again. If it's Chapter 5, Section 1). inside the fuel tank (see Section 7). still low, remove the fuel pump module (see 5 Even after the fuel pressure has been 1 If you suspect insufficient fuel delivery, Section 7) and inspect the fuel inlet strainer relieved, always lay a shop towel over any first inspect all fuel lines to ensure that the for obstructions. If it's clogged, replace the fuel connection that is to be separated to problem is not simply a leak in a line. strainer. If the strainer is OK, replace the fuel absorb the residual fuel that will leak out. 2 Set the parking brake and remove the pump. 6 When you are finished working on the fuel filler cap. Have an assistant turn the igni- 9 If there is no fuel pressure, check the fuel system, reconnect fuel pump electrical tion switch to the ON position while you listen fuel pump, ASD and fuel pump relays as out- connector to the wiring harness. Turn the at the fuel filler neck opening. You should li ned below. ignition key to the ON position a few times to hear a "whirring" sound, lasting for a couple 10 Next, verify that the system holds pres- pressurize the system and check the serviced of seconds. Start the engine. The whirring sure. Note the fuel pressure with the engine
    138. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-3 HAYNES 125015-4-3.17 3.17 Fuel pump module electrical connector (body harness side) 1 Fuel pump (positive feed) 2 Fuel level sending unit (signal) 3 Fuel pump (ground) 3.5 On V6 engines, a special fuel pressure test adapter must be 4 Fuel level sending unit (ground) installed between the fuel supply line and the fuel rail running, then turn off the engine and observe reading on the fuel pressure gauge. If the fuel tower. Locate the fuel pump 4-pin electrical the reading on the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure bleeds down there is a leak at one connector and disconnect it (see illustra- fuel pressure should remain constant for a or more of the injectors. Refer to Section 16 tion 2.3). minimum of one minute. A drop of more than for further testing and replacement proce- 17 Connect a test light or voltmeter to the 5 psi in one minute indicates an unaccept- dures. fuel pump positive feed and ground terminals able leak in the system. If the pressure drop 14 If the pressure remains constant, the of the electrical connector (see illustration). is unacceptable, first visually inspect the sys- fuel injectors are OK and the fuel pressure 18 Have an assistant crank the engine - tem for obvious leaks, especially at the quick regulator must be replaced (see Section 14). battery voltage should be present at the elec- connect fittings. After the pressure tests are complete, per- trical connector. If voltage is present, replace 11 If there aren't any obvious leaks, the fuel form the fuel pressure relief procedure (see the fuel pump. If voltage is not present, check is escaping either from one or more of the Section 2), remove the fuel pressure gauge the ASD and fuel pump relays (see below). fuel injectors or the fuel pressure regulator. and adapter (if used) and assemble the quick-connect fittings (see Section 4). ASD and fuel pump relays 12 On four-cylinder engines, to perform the Refer to illustrations 3.20a, 3.20b, 3.21a, 4 following check it is necessary to install the special fuel pressure test adapter (factory 3.21b, 3.23, 3.24 and 3.25 Component checks tool No. 6539 or equivalent) between the fuel Note: The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay Note: The fuel pressure regulator check is part and the fuel pump relay must both be tested rail and the fuel supply line. Perform the fuel of the system pressure check (see above). to insure proper fuel pump operation. Testing relief procedure (see Section 2) and install the adapter and gauge set-up. Fuel pump procedures for the ASD relay and the fuel 13 To determine where the fuel system is Refer to illustration 3.17 pump relay are identical. leaking, pressurize the fuel system. With the 15 If you cannot hear the fuel pump oper- 19 To access the relay box where the ASD engine OFF, isolate the fuel injectors by ate when energized (refer to preliminary relay is located, remove air cleaner assembly pinching off the rubber hose on the special check above), use a test light or voltmeter to (see Section 9). fuel pressure test adapter (factory tool No. verify the pump is receiving battery voltage. 20 To test a relay, first remove it from its 6539 or equivalent) between the fuel pressure 16 Working inside the trunk, fold back the location in the engine compartment Power gauge and the fuel supply line. Observe the trunk mat near the base of the left shock Distribution Center (PDC) (see illustrations). 3.20a The Automatic Shutdown relay (arrow) is located in the 3.20b The fuel pump relay (arrow) is located in the Power Power Distribution Center under the square cover Distribution Center under the rectangular cover
    139. 4-4 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems TERMINAL LEGEND NUMBER I DENTIFICATION 30 COMMON FEED TERMINAL LEGEND 85 COIL GROUND NUMBER IDENTIFICATION COIL BATTERY 30 COMMON FEED 86 85 COIL GROUND 87 NORMALLY OPEN COIL BATTERY 86 87A NORMALLY CLOSED 87 NORMALLY OPEN 87A NORMALLY CLOSED 3.21a ASD and fuel pump relay terminal identification 3.21b ASD and fuel pump relay terminal identification (rectangle type) (square type) 21 Verify that there is battery voltage at the wires to connect the relay to the battery. inspected for leaks, kinks and dents anytime terminal in the PDC that corresponds with Connect the battery positive terminal to relay the vehicle is raised for service. terminal 30 of the relay (see illustrations). terminal 86 and the battery negative terminal 3 If evidence of dirt is found in the fuel This terminal should have voltage present at to relay terminal 85. Continuity should exist system or fuel filter during service, the all times. Now check the terminal in the PDC between terminals 87 and 30 when terminals affected line should be disconnected and that corresponds with terminal 86 on the 86 and 85 are energized. If continuity is not blown out. Check the fuel inlet strainer on the relay - it should have voltage present only present, replace the relay. fuel pump module for blockage or contami- with the ignition key in the ON position. nation (see Section 14). 22 If there is no voltage, check the fuel pump fuses in cavities 8 and 10 in the PDC. If 4 Quick-connect fittings and fuel Quick-connect fittings voltage is not present at the fuse, check the li nes - disassembly, assembly 4 Chrysler uses three different types of wiring and connectors to the PDC for a short, and replacement quick-connect fittings to join various fuel broken wire or a bad connection. li nes and components. The first type uses a 23 Next, check relay operation by connect- Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, single-tab retainer, the second type a two- ing the probes of an ohmmeter to terminals so take extra precautions when you work on tab retainer and the third type incorporates a 86 and 85 and measure the resistance. There any part of the fuel system (see the Warning plastic retainer ring (usually black in color) should be approximately 75 ohms resistance in Section 2). which connects/disconnects much like a (see illustration). common compressed air hose fitting. Some 24 Now connect the ohmmeter probes to General information are equipped with safety latch clips. The fit- terminals 30 and 87A and check for continu- 1 Always perform the fuel pressure relief tings are equipped with non-serviceable 0- ity. Continuity should be present (see illus- procedure (see Section 2) before servicing ring seals located in the female part of the fit- tration). fuel lines or fittings. ting. In the event the fitting or tubing 25 Check for continuity between terminals 2 The fuel supply and vapor lines extend becomes damaged or develops a leak, 30 and 87 (see illustration). There should be from the fuel tank to the engine compartment. replace the entire fuel line/quick-connect fit- no continuity. The lines are constructed of steel, plastic and ting as an assembly. Always use original 26 Next, with the ohmmeter still connected rubber. They are secured to the underbody equipment parts, or parts that meet or to relay terminals 87 and 30, use jumper with clips and brackets. These lines should be exceed the original equipment standards. 3.23 Measure the resistance between 3.24 Measure the resistance between 3.25 Check for continuity between terminals 86 and 85 - it should be terminals 30 and 87A - continuity terminals 30 and 87 - there approximately 75 ohms should be present should be no continuity
    140. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-5' WINDOW TAB (2) 4.5a Cross-sectional view of a two-tab quick-connect 4.5b When properly assembled, the tab ear and shoulder on fuel line fitting the male fitting should be visible in the window Single and two-tab retainer fittings Disassembly Refer to illustrations 4.5a, 4.5b, 4.9a and 4.9b 5 These quick-connect fittings have one or 2 windows (depending on type) located in the side(s) of the female fitting. When the male fit- ting is inserted into the female, the tab(s) on the male engage in the window(s) and lock the fitting together (see illustrations). 6 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- dure (see Section 2). 7 Remove all fasteners, brackets or clips securing the lines as applicable. 8 Clean the area around the fitting to remove dirt and foreign debris. 9 Depress the retaining tab(s) on the 4.9b ... and separate the fitting - to 4.9a Depress the plastic tabs on quick-connect fitting and pull it apart (see assemble it, lubricate the male end with a the male fitting .. . illustrations). Note: The retaining tabs and small amount of clean engine oil, then push shoulder should remain on the metal fuel line the fitting together until it locks into place - after separation. Plastic retainer ring fittings tug on it to ensure the connection is secure Assembly Disassembly into the female fitting squarely! If it gets 10 Clean the male part of the fitting and Refer to illustration 4.18 cocked, the fitting will be difficult to separate. If li ghtly lubricate it with clean engine oil. 15 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- necessary, use an open-end wrench applied to 11 Position the retaining tab ears on the dure (see Section 2). the plastic retainer to assist in evenly pressing tube so they align with the windows in the 16 Remove all fasteners, brackets or clips it into the female fitting. The plastic retainer female fitting and push them together. You securing the lines as applicable. ring should remain attached to the female fit- should hear the fitting snap into place as the 17 Clean the area around the fitting to ting after separation. retaining tab ears lock into the windows. remove dirt and foreign debris. 12 Verify the fitting is properly fastened by 18 Grasp the male line and push it in Assembly trying to pull the lines apart. (towards the fitting). While applying pressure 19 Clean the male part of the fitting and 13 Secure the fuel line using any clips or on the male line, press the plastic retainer ring li ghtly lubricate it with clean engine oil. brackets as applicable. into the female fitting and then pull the male 20 Insert the male end into the female and 14 Pressurize the system and check for li ne from the female fitting (see illustration). push them together (see illustration 4.18). leaks. Note: The plastic retainer ring must be pushed You should hear the retainer ring snap into I NSTALLATION PLASTIC RETAINER 4.18 Plastic retainer ring type quick-connect fitting removal and installation
    141. 4-6 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems FUEL PUMP MODULE 5.9 Fuel pump module fuel line fittings 5.6 Fuel tank drain plug (arrow) place as it locks the fitting together. Make must be replaced as an assembly. Removal sure the retainer ring is fully extended after 29 Install the new line onto the vehicle and Refer to illustrations 5.6 and 5.9 assembly. assemble the quick-connect fittings as appli- 1 Remove the fuel tank filler cap to relieve 21 Verify the fitting is properly fastened by cable (see above). Secure the line to the vehi- fuel tank pressure. trying to pull the lines apart. cle as required. Warning: Plastic lines must 2 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- 22 Secure the fuel line using any clips or never be allowed to rub against other compo- dure (see Section 2). brackets as applicable. nents or each other. A minimum of 1/4-inch 3 Disconnect the negative battery cable 23 Pressurize the system and check for clearance must be maintained to prevent from the ground stud on the left shock tower leaks. contact unless it is properly secured. Do not (see Chapter 5, Section 1). route plastic fuel lines within four inches of Fuel lines - replacement 4 Working inside the trunk, fold back the any part of the exhaust system or within ten trunk mat near the base of the left shock Steel tubing inches of the catalytic converter. tower. Locate the fuel pump wiring har- 30 After replacing the line, pressurize the 24 If replacement of a metal line is required, ness 4-pin connector and disconnect it from system and check for leaks. disassemble the applicable quick-connect fit- the wiring harness (see illustration 2.3). Fol- tings as described above and remove the line low the fuel pump wiring to the grommet at Rubber hoses from the vehicle. If the quick-connect fitting is the base of the rear seat. Push the grommet damaged or leaks, replace the affected sec- Warning: Fuel-injected vehicles use specially through the floorpan and feed the wiring constructed hoses. Only use hoses marked tion of fuel line/quick-connect fittings as an and 4-pin connector through the hole. EFM/EFI. Replace with only original equip- assembly. 5 Raise the vehicle and support it securely ment hoses, or hoses that meet or exceed 25 If the quick-connect fittings are accept- on jackstands. original equipment standards. Others may able, a new piece of steel tubing may be 6 Position an approved gasoline container spliced-in to replace a damaged section by have a lower fatigue threshold. under the fuel tank drain plug. If necessary, flaring the tubing ends and joining them with a 31 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- use a funnel to prevent spilling fuel. Warning: dure (see Section 2). union. Use tubing that meets or exceeds orig- The fuel tank capacity is 16 gallons. Unless 32 Loosen the clamps securing the hose inal equipment standards. Do not use copper the fuel tank is almost empty, be prepared to or aluminum tubing to replace steel tubing. and remove it from the vehicle. collect a significant amount of fuel. Do not 33 Installation is the reverse of removal. These materials cannot withstand normal leave the fuel tank draining operation unat- Warning: Do not route rubber fuel hoses vehicle vibration. Do not use a rubber hose to tended. Be prepared to replace the drain plug replace a damaged section of steel tubing! within four inches of any part of the exhaust in case the fuel tank capacity exceeds the system or within ten inches of the catalytic 26 When installing the replacement section container capacity. Remove the drain plug converter. Rubber hoses must never be into the line, assemble the quick-connect fit- (see illustration) and allow the fuel to exit the tings first, then tighten the unions. Warning: allowed to rub against other components or fuel tank. each other. A minimum of 1/4-inch clearance Metal lines must never be allowed to rub 7 After the fuel has finished draining, against other components or each other. A must be maintained to prevent contact with replace the drain plug and tighten it to the other components unless it is properly minimum of 1/4-inch clearance must be torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. secured. maintained to prevent contact unless it is Warning: There will be approximately 1 to 2 properly secured. 34 After replacing the hose, pressurize the gallons of fuel remaining inside the tank. system and check for leaks. 27 After replacing the line or section, pres- 8 Loosen the clamp and detach the filler surize the system and check for leaks. neck hose from the fuel tank. Warning: There Plastic lines may be fuel inside the filler neck and hose, 5 Fuel tank - removal and protect yourself accordingly. 28 If replacement of a plastic line is installation 9 Disconnect the quick-connect fuel line required, disassemble the applicable quick- fittings (see Section 4 if necessary) from the connect fittings as described above and Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, fuel pump module (see illustration). remove the line from the vehicle. The plastic so take extra precautions when you work on 10 At the rear of the fuel tank, detach the li nes used on these vehicles are not service- vapor hose from the rollover valve. able. If replacement is required, the affected any part of the fuel system (see the Warning in Section 2). 11 Support the fuel tank with a floor jack. section of fuel line/quick-connect fittings
    142. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-7 FUEL LEVEL SENSOR 7.6a Fuel pump module - component identification 7.6b When removing the fuel pump module from the fuel tank, slightly angle the module to avoid damaging the fuel level sending unit float arm Place a piece of wood between the jack head 8 For service procedures on the fuel pres- and the fuel tank to protect the tank. 7 Fuel pump module - removal and sure regulator and inlet strainer refer to Sec- 12 Remove the fuel tank strap bolts and installation tion 14. straps. 9 For service procedures on the fuel level 13 On 1998 models, slightly lower the fuel Warning 1: Gasoline is extremely flammable, sending unit refer to Section 8. tank and detach the EVAP canister purge so take extra precautions when you work on li ne. Remove the hoses from the EVAP canis- any part of the fuel system (see the Warning Installation ter (see Chapter 6 if necessary) and discon- in Section 2). 10 Clean sealing area on the fuel tank. nect the electrical connector from the Leak Warning 2: The fuel reservoir in the fuel Obtain the new fuel pump module 0-ring Detection Pump (LDP). Note: Before discon- pump module does not empty when the fuel seal. Lightly lubricate the 0-ring seal with necting any lines or hoses, clearly label the tank is drained. This fuel will drain out when clean engine oil and install it on the fuel tank hose and fitting so they can be reinstalled in the fuel pump module is removed from the opening. their proper locations. fuel tank - protect yourself accordingly. 4 11 Carefully insert the fuel pump module 14 Slightly lower the fuel tank and then Caution: Be sure to change the fuel pump into the fuel tank. Align the tab on the fuel slide it forward to allow the filler neck to clear module 0-ring seal whenever the assembly is pump module with the notch in the fuel tank. the rear suspension crossmember. Remove removed for service. 12 While holding the fuel pump module in the tank from the vehicle. Note: The fuel pump module consists of the place, install the ring nut, tightening it following components; fuel pump, fuel pres- securely. Caution: Over-tightening the ring Installation sure regulator, fuel inlet strainer and fuel level nut may result in a leak. 15 Installation is the reverse of removal. sending unit. 13 The remaining installation steps are the However, before installing the fuel tank, tie a reverse of removal. length of string or wire to the fuel pump mod- Removal ule wiring harness and route it through the Refer to illustrations 7.6a and 7.6b hole in the trunk floorpan. Once the fuel tank 1 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- 8 Fuel level sending unit - check is securely in position, pull the string to dure (see Section 2). access the wiring harness. 2 Disconnect the negative cable from the and replacement 16 Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts to the remote battery terminal. torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 3 Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, (see Section 5). so take extra precautions when you work on 4 Clean the top of the fuel tank around the any part of the fuel system (see the Warning 6 Fuel tank cleaning and repair - fuel pump module to remove any dirt or in Section 2). general information debris. Note: The fuel pump module consists of the 5 Using a large pair of pliers, remove the following components; fuel pump, fuel pres- Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, fuel pump module ring nut. Caution: Do not sure regulator, fuel inlet strainer and fuel level so take extra precautions when you work on apply too much pressure on the ring nut dur- sending unit. any part of the fuel system. (See the Warning ing removal or damage may result. in Section 2). 6 Remove the fuel pump module from the Check 1 The fuel tank on these vehicles is made tank (see illustrations). Angle the assembly Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.9 and 8.10 of plastic and is not repairable. slightly to avoid damaging the fuel level send- ing unit float arm. Remove and discard the 0- In-vehicle 2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehi- ring seal. 1 Begin this procedure with the fuel tank cle, do not place it in an area where sparks or 7 The electric fuel pump is not service- completely full. open flames could ignite the fuel vapors able. In the event of failure, the complete 2 Working inside the trunk, fold back the escaping from the tank. Be especially careful assembly must be replaced. The only ser- trunk mat near the base of the left shock inside a garage where a natural gas-type viceable parts on the fuel pump module are tower. Locate the fuel pump wiring harness appliance is located, because the pilot light the fuel inlet strainer, fuel pressure regulator 4-pin connector and disconnect it from the could cause an explosion. and the fuel level sending unit. wiring harness (see illustration 2.3).
    143. 4-8 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems FUEL PUMP FUEL PUMP GROUND VOLTAGE SUPPLY LEVEL SENSOR GROUND 8.3 Fuel pump module electrical connector (fuel pump side) terminal identification 1 Fuel level sending unit (ground) 2 Fuel pump (ground) 3 Fuel level sending unit (signal) 8.9 Measuring the resistance of the fuel level sending unit with 4 Fuel pump (positive feed) the float arm in the FULL position 8.10 Measuring the resistance of the fuel level sending unit with 8.13 Disconnect the electrical connector from the base of the fuel the float arm in the EMPTY position pump module flange 3 Connect the probes of an ohmmeter to pump module electrical connector (see illus- 13 Disconnect the fuel level sensor/fuel the fuel level sending unit terminals of the fuel tration 8.3). pump electrical connector from the base of pump module electrical connector and mea- 9 First, check the resistance of the send- the fuel pump module flange (see illustra- sure the resistance (see illustration). Com- ing unit with the float arm in the FULL posi- tion). pare the measured resistance to the value tion (see illustration). Compare the mea- 14 Use needle-nose pliers to remove the li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. If the sured resistance to the value listed in this blue locking wedge (see illustration). resistance is less than specified, replace the Chapter's Specifications. If the resistance is 15 Use a small screwdriver or needle-nose fuel level sending unit. less than specified, replace the fuel level pliers to lift the connector locking finger away 4 Next, drive the vehicle until the fuel tank sending unit. from the fuel level sending unit wire terminals is nearly empty or drain the fuel tank via the 10 Next, while observing the ohmmeter, and then withdraw them from the module drain plug into a container approved to hold slowly lower the float arm to the EMPTY posi- gasoline (see Section 5). tion. The ohmmeter should register a smooth 5 With the fuel tank empty, check the change in resistance value from the FULL to resistance again (see illustration 8.3). Com- EMPTY position (see illustration). Compare pare the measured resistance to the value the measured resistance to the value listed in li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. If the this Chapter's Specifications. If the resis- resistance is out of tolerance, replace the fuel tance is out of tolerance or the ohmmeter level sending unit. exhibited fluctuation during the transition from FULL to EMPTY, replace the fuel level Removed from vehicle sending unit. 6 A more thorough check of the fuel level sending unit can be performed with the send- Replacement ing unit removed from the vehicle. Refer to illustrations 8.13, 8.14, 8.15 and 8.17 7 Remove the fuel pump module (see 11 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- Section 7). dure (see Section 2). 8 Connect the probes of an ohmmeter to 12 Remove the fuel pump module (see 8.14 Use needle-nose pliers and carefully the fuel level sending unit terminals of the fuel Section 7). remove the blue locking wedge
    144. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-9 8.15 Use a small screwdriver, or needle- 8.17 Using a screwdriver, pry the sensor 8.19 Place the wires into the groove on nose pliers, and lift the locking fingers down slightly to disengage the the backside of the sending unit, then away from the terminals, then carefully locking feature while guiding the wires, slide the sending remove the terminals from the connector unit up the channel until it snaps into LEVEL SENSOR place - tug on it to ensure it's GROUND FUEL PUMP SUPPLY locked into place 20 Install the wire terminals into the module connector in their proper locations (see illus- 8.20 Terminal guide tration). for the fuel pump/fuel 21 Install the blue locking wedge into the module connector. level sending unit 22 Verify the wire terminals are properly (where it connects to installed in the module connector by gently the base of the fuel pulling on the wires. pump module flange) 23 Connect the fuel level sensor/fuel pump electrical connector to the base of the fuel pump module flange. 24 The remaining installation steps are the LEVEL SENSOR reverse of removal. 4 SIGNAL electrical connector (see illustration). the module fuel reservoir opening, slide the 9 Air cleaner assembly - removal 16 If necessary, use factory tool No. sensor out of the channel. and installation C-4334 or equivalent to remove the fuel level sending unit terminals from the module con- Installation nector. Refer to illustrations 8.19 and 8.20 Removal 17 To remove the sending unit, insert a 19 Place the wires into the guide groove on Refer to illustrations 9.1a, 9.1b, 9.2, 9.4a and screwdriver between the module fuel reservoir the back side of the sending unit, route them 9.4b and the top of the level sensor as shown and through the module fuel reservoir and then 1 On the 2.0L four-cylinder engine and the pry the sensor down slightly (see illustration). slide the sensor up the channel until it snaps V6 engine, remove the air inlet resonator-to- 18 While guiding the sensor wires through into place (see illustration). manifold bolts (see illustrations). MOUNTING BOLTS 9.1a Air inlet resonator-to-manifold bolts 9.1b Removing the air inlet resonator bolt (V6 engine) (2.0L four-cylinder engine only)
    145. 4-10 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 9.2 Four-cylinder engines - air inlet resonator clamp 9.4a Loosening the air duct clamp at the air filter housing at the throttle body (V6 engine shown, others similar) 2 On four-cylinder engines, loosen the the housing and remove it from the engine vehicle, use pliers to compress the cable clamp and detach the air inlet resonator from compartment. retainer clips, then push the cable retainer the throttle body (see illustration). out of the accelerator pedal arm. Next, slide 3 On four-cylinder engines, loosen the air Installation the cable out of the slot in the accelerator duct clamp at the air cleaner housing and 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. pedal arm (see illustration). remove the air ducting with air inlet resonator Make sure the lower housing is free of dirt 7 Push the cable through the firewall into attached. and contamination prior to installation. the engine compartment and remove it from 4 On V6 engines, loosen the air duct the vehicle. clamps at the air cleaner housing and throttle 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. body (see illustrations) then remove the air 10 Accelerator cable - replacement ducting with air inlet resonator attached. Refer to illustrations 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5 11 Fuel injection system - general Installation and 10.6 information 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. 1 On four-cylinder engines, remove the air cleaner assembly (see Section 9). The sequential Multi-Port Fuel Injection Air filter housing 2 Rotate the throttle valve cam to the full ( MPFI) system consists of three sub-systems: throttle position and disconnect the accelera- air intake, engine control and fuel delivery. Removal tor cable from the slot in the throttle valve The MPFI system is controlled by the Power- Refer to illustration 9.8 cam (see illustration). train Control Module (PCM) which uses the 6 Loosen the air duct clamp and detach it 3 On four-cylinder engines, compress the information from various sensors to deter- from the air cleaner top cover (see illustra- cable retaining tabs and push the accelerator mine the proper air/fuel ratio under all operat- tion 9.4a). cable out of the bracket (see illustration). ing conditions. 7 Remove the air filter top cover and filter 4 On V6 engines, compress the cable The fuel injection system, emissions and element (see Chapter 1 if necessary). retaining tab and slide the cable out of the engine control systems work together to pro- 8 Remove the three bolts securing the air side of the bracket (see illustration). vide maximum performance, fuel economy filter lower housing to the inner fender panel 5 Disconnect the accelerator cable from and the lowest exhaust emissions. For com- (see illustration). the bracket on the firewall (see illustration). plete information on the emissions and 9 Detach the air inlet duct at the front of 6 At the accelerator pedal arm inside the engine control system, refer to Chapter 6. 9.4b Loosening the air duct clamp at 9.8 Remove the three bolts then remove 10.2 Disconnecting the accelerator cable the throttle body (V6 engine) the air filter lower housing from from the throttle lever at the throttle body the fender panel (V6 engine shown)
    146. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-11 10.3 On four-cylinder engines, after detaching the cable from the 10.4 On V6 engines, compress the retaining tab on the cable throttle lever, compress the tab on the cable outer housing housing and slide the cable from the bracket and push it through the bracket low speed steering or when an automatic drawn through the fuel inlet strainer into the Air intake system transaxle is placed in gear. pump, pumped past the fuel pressure regula- The air intake system consists of the air tor, then through the fuel filter and delivered filter, the air ducts, air inlet resonator, the Engine control system to the injectors. throttle body, the idle control system and the For information on the engine control The fuel pressure regulator maintains a intake manifold. system, refer to Chapter 6. constant fuel pressure to the injectors. The engine idle speed is controlled by Excess fuel is released back into the fuel tank the PCM via the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor. Fuel delivery system through the fuel pressure regulator. This sys- The IAC motor regulates the flow of air tem is called a "returnless" system. The fuel delivery system consists of the allowed to by-pass the throttle valve in the following components: an electric fuel pump, The fuel rail supplies the regulated fuel throttle body thereby increasing engine a fuel pressure regulator, an in-line fuel filter, to each electronically controlled fuel injector. speed. The PCM uses information from vari- ous sensors to determine the correct amount the fuel rail, the fuel injectors, various metal The injectors are solenoid types consisting of 4 and plastic lines, the Automatic Shutdown a solenoid, plunger, needle valve and hous- of airflow required to maintain the proper (ASD) relay and the fuel pump relay. ing. When the PCM sends a voltage signal to engine speed during engine warm-up and The fuel pump and fuel pressure regula- the fuel injector, the needle valve raises off its when a load is placed on the engine, such as tor are located inside the fuel tank. Fuel is seat and lets metered fuel enter the intake engaging the air conditioning compressor, 10.5 Accelerator cable bracket at firewall (V6 engine shown, 10.6 Use pliers to compress the cable retainer tabs and push the typical routing for all models) cable retainer from the accelerator pedal arm, then remove the cable through the slot in the pedal arm and remove the cable from inside the engine compartment
    147. 4-12 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems manifold. The injection quantity is determined by the length of time which current is sup- plied to the injector. The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) and the fuel pump relays are located in the Power Distribution Center, which is located in the engine compartment on the left (driver's) side. The ASD relay connects battery voltage to the fuel injectors and the ignition coil while the fuel pump relay connects battery voltage only to the fuel pump. If the PCM senses there is NO signal from the camshaft or crankshaft sensors while the ignition key is RUN or cranking, the PCM will de-energize both relays in approximately one second. 12.6 Use a stethoscope to determine if 13.7 Disconnect the canister purge 12 Fuel injection system - general the injectors are working properly - they control vacuum hose from the throttle check should make a steady clicking sound body (V6 engine shown, others similar) that rises and falls with engine speed Refer to illustration 12.6 changes (V6 engine shown) Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, Removal so take extra precautions when you work on 7 Individual component checks can be Refer to illustrations 13.7, 13.10a, 13.10b and any part of the fuel system) see the Warning found in their appropriate Sections. 13.11 in Section 2). Warning: Wait until the engine is completely Note: The following procedure is based on cool before beginning this procedure. the assumption that the fuel pump/pressure 13 Throttle body - check, removal 5 Disconnect the negative battery cable is acceptable (see Section 3). from the ground stud on the left shock tower. and installation 1 Visually check all electrical connectors 6 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see that are related to the system. Check ground Section 9). wire connections on the intake manifold and Check 7 Disconnect the canister purge vacuum engine for tightness. Loose connectors and hose from the throttle body (see illustration). 1 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see poor grounds can cause many problems that 8 Detach the accelerator cable and cruise Section 9). resemble more serious component malfunc- 2 Verify the accelerator cable, cruise con- control cable (if equipped), from the throttle tions. valve lever (see Section 10). trol cable (if equipped) and throttle valve 2 Check to see that the battery is fully 9 On four-cylinder engines, remove the operate smoothly without binding or sticking. charged, as the PCM and information sen- Inspect the throttle bore, throttle valve, accelerator and cruise control cable bracket 3 sors depend on proper battery voltage in and position the bracket (with cable) out of IAC by-pass port and canister purge vacuum order to operate correctly. the way. port for carbon deposits. If carbon build-up is 3 Check the air filter element - a dirty or present, remove the throttle body from the 10 Disconnect the TPS and IAC sensor partially blocked filter will severely impede connectors from the throttle body, remove vehicle (see below) and remove the IAC performance and economy (see Chapter 1). the mounting bolts and then withdraw the motor (see Section 17). Clean the throttle 4 Check the air intake ducts for cracks or body and IAC motor pintle with a spray-type throttle body and gasket from the manifold loose connections. Also check the condition (see illustrations). carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush. of all vacuum hoses connected to the intake 11 The throttle body 0-ring seal on 2.0L 4 If the throttle valve does not operate manifold. Make sure they fit tightly on the four-cylinder engines is reusable (see illus- freely after cleaning, replace the throttle vacuum ports and are free from cracks or body. tration). Remove it from the manifold and other defects. 5 Remove the air intake duct (V6 engine) or air inlet resonator (four-cylinder engines) from the throttle body and inspect for dirt, carbon or other residue build-up around the throttle valve and Idle Air Control by-pass port. If the throttle body is dirty, clean it with a spray-type carburetor cleaner and a tooth- brush or clean rag. Note: If the throttle body cannot be cleaned properly while installed on the vehicle, remove it (see Section 13). 6 With the engine running, place an auto- motive stethoscope against each injector, one at a time, and listen for a clicking sound, indicating operation (see illustration). If you don't have a stethoscope, place the tip of a screwdriver against the injector and listen through the handle. Note: On V6 engines, the 13.10a Four-cylinder engine IAC, 13.10b V6 engine IAC, TPS and throttle air inlet resonator must be removed to access TPS and throttle body bolts body bolts the left bank of fuel injectors. The right bank of fuel injectors CANNOT be checked using 1 Idle Air Control motor 1 Throttle Position Sensor this procedure, as they are covered by the 2 Throttle Position Sensor 2 Idle Air Control motor upper intake manifold. 3 Throttle body bolts 3 Throttle body bolts
    148. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4®13 inspect it for hardness and cracks. If visual inspection does not reveal any defects, the 0-ring seal may be reused. 12 On all other models, remove all traces of gasket material from the throttle body and manifold. 13 If necessary, clean the throttle body as outlined in Step 3. Installation 14 Install the throttle body with a new gas- ket (2.0L four-cylinder engines may reuse the 0-ring seal) onto the intake manifold. 15 Tighten the throttle body mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi- cations. 13.11 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, the 14.3a Spread the four tabs and remove 16 The remaining installation steps are the throttle body 0-ring gasket (arrow) the retainer reverse of removal. After installation, check to is reusable see that the throttle body operates freely. card the old 0-ring seals. 4 Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to 14 Fuel pressure regulator and fuel the new 0-ring seals and install them in the inlet strainer - replacement receptacle in the fuel pump module (see illustration). Ensure they are properly seated. Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, 5 Install the new pressure regulator into so take extra precautions when you work on the fuel pump module. any part of the fuel system (see the Warning 6 Install the regulator retainer and fold the in Section 2). retainer tangs over the tabs on the fuel pump Note: The fuel pump module consists of the module. Make sure the retainer is securely following components; fuel pump, fuel pres- attached. sure regulator, fuel inlet strainer and fuel level 7 Install the fuel pump module (see Sec- sending unit. tion 7). Fuel pressure regulator Fuel inlet strainer 4 Replacement Replacement Refer to illustrations 14.3a, 14.3b and 14.4 Refer to illustration 14.10 14.3b Using a screwdriver, carefully pry 1 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- 8 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- the fuel pressure regulator out of dure (see Section 2). dure (see Section 2). the fuel pump module 2 Remove the fuel pump module (see 9 Remove the fuel pump module (see Section 7). Section 7). 0-ring seal and install it in onto the fuel pump 3 Spread the tabs on the pressure regula- 10 Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry the reservoir. tor retainer and remove the retainer, then tangs on the fuel inlet strainer away from the 12 Install the fuel inlet strainer onto the fuel carefully pry the pressure regulator out of the tabs on the fuel pump reservoir and remove pump reservoir and make sure it is securely fuel pump module housing (see illustra- the strainer and 0-ring seal (see illustration). locked in place. tions). Ensure that both upper and lower 11 Before installing the new 0-ring seal, 13 Install the fuel pump module (see Sec- 0-ring seals come out with the regulator. Dis - apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the tion 7). LOWER 0-RING 14.10 To remove the inlet strainer, use a screwdriver to pry the 14.4 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the new 0-ring retaining tabs away from the fuel pump module seals and install them into the fuel pump module and then detach the strainer
    149. 4-14 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 15 Fuel filter - removal and installation Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system (see the Warning in Section 2). Removal Refer to illustration. 15.1 1 The in-line fuel filter mounts to the frame above the rear of the fuel tank, near the filler neck (see illustration). 2 Remove the fuel tank filler cap to relieve fuel tank pressure. 3 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- dure (see Section 2). 4 Disconnect the negative battery cable 15.1 The fuel filter (arrow) is tucked up 16.6 Measure the resistance of each from the ground stud on the left shock tower behind the fuel tank and mounted to injector. It should be approximately (see Chapter 5, Section 1). the frame above the rear 12 ohms 5 Working inside the trunk, fold back the suspension crossmember trunk mat near the base of the left shock tower. Locate the fuel pump wiring harness change the engine rpm, proceed to the next 4-pin connector and disconnect it from the Step. If the fuel injectors are operating prop- 15 Assemble the fuel line quick-connect fit- wiring harness (see illustration 2.3). Follow erly, check the ignition system (see Chap- tings as described in Section 4. Verify the fit- the fuel pump wiring to the grommet at the ter 5), condition of the spark plugs and wires tings are securely assembled by trying to pull base of the rear seat. Tie a length of string to (see Chapter 1) and, if necessary, perform a them apart. Note: The fuel filter larger line fit- the fuel pump wiring harness and secure the ting attaches to the fuel pump module "sup- compression check (see Chapter 2C) to other end somewhere in the trunk (this will determine the cause of the dead cylinder. ply" port and the smaller fitting attaches to allow you to easily retrieve the wiring har- 5 On V6 engines, remove the upper intake the "return" port. ness). Push the grommet through the floor- 16 Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts to the manifold (see Chapter 2B). pan and feed the wiring and 4 pin connector 6 Disconnect the injector electrical con- torque given in this Chapter's Specifications. through the hole. nectors and using an ohmmeter, measure the 17 Pressurize the system and check for 6 Raise the vehicle and support it securely resistance of each injector (see illustration). leaks. on jackstands. Compare the measured resistance to the 7 Position an approved gasoline container value given this Chapter's Specifications. If under the fuel tank drain plug. If necessary, the resistance is not within specifications, use a funnel to prevent spilling fuel. Warning: 16 Fuel rail and injectors - check, replace the injector. The fuel tank capacity is 16 gallons. Unless removal and installation 7 If the resistance is as specified, connect the fuel tank is almost empty, be prepared to a special injector harness test light (com- collect a significant amount of fuel. Do not Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, monly known as a "noid light" which is avail- leave the fuel tank draining operation unat- so take extra precautions when you work on able at most auto parts stores) to the injector tended. Be prepared to replace the drain plug any part of the fuel system (see the Warning electrical connector (see illustration). If the in case the fuel tank capacity exceeds the in Section 2). li ght flashes, the injector is receiving voltage. container capacity. Remove the drain plug If there is no voltage, check the ASD relay operation (see Section 3). If the ASD relay is (see illustration 5.6) and drain the fuel into Fuel injector operation check the container. OK, check the injector wiring circuit for a Refer to illustrations 16.6 and 16.7 short, a break in the wire or a bad connection 8 After the fuel has finished draining, rein- 1 Start the engine and allow it warm up to (see Chapter 12 if necessary). stall the drain plug and tighten it to the torque normal operating temperature. 8 With the electrical connector removed li sted in this Chapter's Specifications. 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see from the injector, use a fused jumper wire to 9 Support the fuel tank with a floor jack. Section 9). connect one terminal of the injector to the Place a piece of wood between the jack head 3 If the vehicle is not equipped with a positive remote terminal of the battery near and the fuel tank to protect the tank. tachometer, connect one to the engine in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Attach 10 Remove the driver's side fuel tank strap accordance with the tool manufacturer's another jumper wire to the other terminal on (the long strap). instructions. the fuel injector. Make sure the jumper wires 11 Loosen, but do not remove, the passen- 4 Make sure all test equipment is posi- are properly insulated from each other! Using ger side fuel tank strap so the fuel tank filler tioned away from the drivebelts and cooling the grounded jumper wire, quickly connect neck just touches the rear suspension cross- fans, then start the engine. With the engine and disconnect it to a solid ground on the member. Caution: Do not let the weight of idling, detach each fuel injector electrical engine. Note: Do not subject the fuel injector the fuel tank rest on the filler neck! Support it with the jack at all times. connector one-at-a-time, and note the rpm to battery voltage any longer than necessary. change on the tachometer, then reconnect Each time the injector is energized and de- 12 Label and disconnect the quick-connect the injector. Note: On V6 engines, this test energized, the injector should make an audi- fuel line fittings (see Section 4 if necessary) can only be applied to the left bank of fuel ble "clicking" sound. If no sound is heard. connecting the fuel filter to the fuel system. injectors and only after removing the air inlet replace the injector. Repeat the test for each 13 Detach the fuel filter from its mounting resonator (see Section 9). If the rpm change injector. and remove it from the vehicle. is approximately the same for each cylinder, 9 If the fuel injectors are operating prop- Installation the injectors are operating correctly. If dis- erly, install all removed components in the connecting a particular injector fails to reverse order of removal. 14 Installation is the reverse of removal.
    150. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-15 16.7 Install a "noid" light (available at most auto part stores) into 16.21a Disconnecting the fuel supply line quick-connect fitting at each injector electrical connector and confirm that it illuminates the fuel rail (four-cylinder engine shown) when the engine is cranking or running Fuel injector leak check (engine OFF) several times to pressurize the 18 Disconnect the negative battery cable fuel system. Warning: Do not crank the from the ground stud on the left shock tower Warning: Wear eye protection during this engine over. With the system under pressure, (see Chapter 5, Section 1). check. inspect each injector for fuel leaking out of 19 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Note: After identifying that a fuel injector is the nozzle. Label the faulty injectors ). Section 9). leaking (see Section 3), use the following pro- 15 Next, relieve the fuel pressure via a 20 On V6 engines, remove the upper intake cedure to determine which one (or more) of faulty fuel injector by using a small Phillips manifold (see Chapter 2B). the fuel injectors is defective. head screwdriver (or equivalent) to push the 21 Detach the fuel supply line quick-con- 10 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce- injector pintle off its seat to release the fuel nector fitting (see Section 4 if necessary) from dure (see Section 2). pressure through the injector nozzle. Wrap a the fuel rail (see illustrations). 11 Remove the fuel rail and injector assem- dry shop rag around the faulty injector to 22 Disconnect the wiring harness electrical bly from the intake manifold as described catch the fuel as it escapes. connectors from the fuel injectors. Clearly below, however, do not disconnect the fuel 16 Once the fuel pressure has been label and remove any vacuum hoses or elec- 4 supply line or the fuel injectors from the fuel relieved, detach the fuel supply line quick- trical wiring that will interfere with the fuel rail rail. connect fitting from the fuel rail (see Section removal. 12 With the fuel rail resting on the intake 4 if necessary) and replace the faulty fuel 23 Clean the injector-to-manifold area manifold (injectors nozzles exposed), place injector(s) (see below). using compressed air (a can of compressed- some clean shop rags under the fuel injectors gas duster like those used to blow out electri- to catch the fuel that will leak out of the defective injectors ). Removal cal components will work just as well) or spray-type carburetor cleaner to remove any 13 Attach the fuel pump module electrical Refer to illustrations 16.21a, 16.21b, 16.24a, dirt or debris from around the injectors. connector to the wiring harness and the bat- 16.24b, 16.25a, 16.25b, 16.25c, 16.26a, 24 Remove the fuel rail mounting bolts (see tery negative cable to the remote battery ter- 16.26b and 16.26c illustrations). minal. 17 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce - 25 Remove the fuel rail assembly (with the 14 Turn the ignition key to the ON position dure (see Section 2). fuel injectors attached) from the engine (see 16.21b Disconnecting the fuel supply line quick-connect fitting at 16.24a Fuel rail mounting bolts (arrows) (four-cylinder engines) the fuel rail (V6 engine shown)
    151. 4-16 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 16.24b Fuel rail mounting bolts (arrows) (V6 engine) 16.25a Removing the fuel rail/injectors (four-cylinder engines) 16.25b Removing the fuel rail/injectors (V6 engine) 16.25c On V6 engines, these plastic spacers must be installed between the fuel rail and the lower intake manifold 26 Remove the retaining clips and with- seal, it's standard practice to replace all 0- illustrations). Note: On V6 engines, there are spacers located between the fuel rail and the draw the injectors from the fuel rail (see illus- ring seals at this time. lower intake manifold, if they become dis- trations). Remove the 0-ring seals and dis- 27 On V6 engines, clean and inspect the card them (see illustration). Note: Whether upper-to-lower manifold gasket surfaces (see lodged, make sure you reinstall them (see you're replacing an injector or a bad 0-ring Chapter 2B). illustration). 16.26a Using a screwdriver or pliers, 16.26b ... then withdraw the injector 16.26c Remove the old 0-ring seals from remove the injector retaining clip securing from the fuel rail the fuel injector and discard them the injector to the fuel rail .. .
    152. Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-17 Installation and attach a vacuum gauge in its place. Posi- tion the vacuum gauge so you can see it from 28 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil inside the vehicle. to the new 0-ring seals and carefully install 3 If the vehicle is not equipped with a them onto the injectors. tachometer, connect one to the engine per 29 Insert each injector into its correspond- the manufacturer's instructions and place it ing bore in the fuel rail. Position the electrical so you can see the meter from inside the terminals appropriately and secure the fuel vehicle. injectors to the fuel rail with the retaining 4 Inside the vehicle, start the engine and clips. note the reading on the vacuum gauge and 30 On V6 engines, make sure the fuel rail the engine speed on the tachometer. spacers are installed (see illustration 16.25c). 5 If the vehicle is equipped with an auto- 31 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil matic transaxle, apply the brakes and place to the injector-to-manifold 0-ring seals and the transaxle in DRIVE. If the vehicle is install the injector/fuel rail assembly onto the equipped with air conditioning, turn it on. If intake manifold. Make sure the injectors are the vehicle does not have either of the previ- fully seated, then tighten the fuel rail mount- ously mentioned options, turn the steering ing bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's wheel all the way to the left and hold it in Specifications. there. Observe the reading on the vacuum 18.1 Inspect the exhaust system 32 Connect the fuel supply line quick-con- gauge. It should drop slightly as the IAC mounting brackets, clamps and nect fitting to the fuel rail (see Section 4). motor opens the throttle by-pass airway. The rubber hangers for damage 33 Attach the fuel pump module electrical engine speed should drop momentarily and or improper installation connector to the wiring harness and the bat- then rise to the previously noted rpm. If the tery negative cable to the ground stud on the vacuum reading remains the same and the left shock tower. mounting screws. Tighten the screws to the engine speed drops, turn off the engine and 34 Turn the ignition key to the ON position torque given in this Chapter's Specifications. proceed to the next step. (engine OFF) several times to pressurize the Note: The ignition key may be turned OFF 6 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see fuel system. Inspect the fuel rail and injectors after the IAC motor is installed on the throttle Section 9) and inspect the by-pass airway for for leaks. If leakage is evident, perform the body. obstructions or carbon build-up, clean if nec- fuel pressure relief procedure (see Section 2) 16 Install the throttle body (see Section 13). essary. and rectify the problem. Warning: On V6 Tighten the throttle body bolts to the torque 7 If the by-pass airway appears to be engines, before performing the fuel relief pro- listed in this Chapter's Specifications. clear, remove the IAC motor from the throttle cedure, disconnect the spark plug wires from 17 Install the air cleaner assembly (see body (see below). the spark plugs and make sure all loose Section 9). 8 Next, turn the ignition key to the ON objects or rags have been removed from position (engine OFF). Note: Perform this inside or around the lower intake manifold 4 check when the engine is completely COLD. ports. 9 While observing the IAC pintle, attach 18 Exhaust system servicing - 35 The remaining installation steps are the the electrical connector to the IAC motor. The general information reverse of removal. On V6 engines, make IAC pintle should retract. If it doesn't, use a sure to install a new upper intake manifold voltmeter or a test light to verify voltage is gasket and tighten the upper intake manifold Refer to illustration 18.1 present at the RED wire terminal in the female bolts to the torque listed in the Chapter 2B Warning: Inspection and repair of exhaust connector. If voltage is present, replace the Specifications. system components should be done only IAC motor. If no voltage is present, check for after enough time has elapsed after driving a blown fuse. If a fuse was blown, replace it and see if it blows again. If it does, check the the vehicle to allow the system components 17 Idle Air Control (IAC) motor - circuit for a short (see Chapter 12). to cool completely. Also, when working under check and replacement the vehicle, make sure it is securely sup- Removal ported on jackstands. 1 The exhaust system consists of the 10 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see General description Section 9). exhaust manifold, the catalytic converter, the The engine idle speed is controlled by 11 Remove the throttle body (see Sec- resonator, exhaust pipe, muffler and all the PCM via the Idle Air Control motor. The brackets, hangers and clamps. The exhaust tion 13). IAC motor regulates the flow of air allowed to 12 Remove the IAC motor from the throttle system is attached to the body with mounting by-pass the throttle valve in the throttle body body (see illustrations 13.10a and 13.10b). brackets and rubber hangers (see illustra- thereby increasing engine speed. The PCM tion). If any of the parts are improperly Make sure the 0-ring seal is removed with uses information from various sensors to installed, excessive noise and vibration will the IAC motor, if not, retrieve it from the throt- determine the correct amount of airflow tle body orifice. be transmitted to the body. required to maintain the proper engine speed during engine warm-up and when a load is Installation Muffler and pipes placed on the engine, such as engaging the 13 If the new IAC motor pintle is protruding 2 Conduct regular inspections of the air conditioning compressor, low speed more than 1 inch, it must be retracted before exhaust system to keep it safe and quiet. steering or when an automatic transaxle is it can be installed. If this is the case, turn the Look for any damaged or bent parts, open placed in gear. ignition key to the ON position (engine OFF). seams, holes, loose connections, excessive Note: Perform this procedure when the corrosion or other defects which could allow Check engine is completely COLD. exhaust fumes to enter the vehicle. Also 1 Run the engine until it reaches normal 14 Attach the electrical connector to the check the catalytic converter when you operating temperature, then shut off the IAC motor, the pintle will retract. inspect the exhaust system (see following). engine. 15 With the pintle retracted and the 0-ring Deteriorated exhaust system components 2 Locate a vacuum fitting on the intake seal in place, carefully install the IAC motor should not be repaired; they should be manifold. Remove the hose from the fitting into the throttle body and secure it with the replaced with new parts.
    153. 4-18 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 3 Before trying to disassemble any low when repairing the exhaust system: Catalytic converter exhaust components, spray the fasteners a) Work from the back to the front when Warning: The converter gets extremely hot with a penetrating oil to help ease removal. If removing exhaust system components. during operation, and can remain very hot for the exhaust system components are b) Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust sys- hours after the engine has been turned off. extremely corroded or rusted together, weld- tem component fasteners to make them Make sure it has cooled down before you ing equipment will probably be required to easier to remove. touch it. remove them. The convenient way to accom- c) Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps Note: See Chapter 6 for more information on plish this is to have a muffler repair shop when installing exhaust systems compo- the catalytic converter. remove the corroded sections with a cutting nents. 5 Periodically inspect the heat shield for torch. If, however, you want to save money d) Apply anti-seize compound to the cracks, dents and loose or missing fasteners. by doing it yourself (and you don't have a threads of all exhaust system fasteners 6 Remove the heat shield and inspect the welding outfit with a cutting torch), simply cut at reassembly. converter for cracks or other damage. off the old components with a hacksaw. If e) Be sure to allow sufficient clearance 7 If the converter must be replaced, you have compressed air, special pneumatic between newly installed parts and all detach the exhaust system from the exhaust cutting chisels can also be used. If you points on the underbody to avoid over- manifold. Loosen the rear band clamp at the decide to tackle the job at home, be sure to heating the floor pan and possibly dam- resonator and separate the converter from wear safety goggles to protect your eyes aging the interior carpet and insulation. the exhaust system. from metal chips and work gloves to protect Pay particularly close attention to the 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be your hands. catalytic converter and heat shield. sure to use new gaskets and tighten the fas- 4 Here are some simple guidelines to fol - teners securely.
    154. Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems Contents Section Section Alternator - removal and installation .................................................... 11 General information, precautions and battery disconnection ................ 1 Battery cables - check and replacement...............................................3 Ignition coil - check and replacement ....................................................7 Battery check, maintenance and charging ....................... See Chapter 1 Ignition system - check..........................................................................6 Battery - emergency jump starting ........................................................ 2 Ignition system - general information .................................................... 5 Battery - removal and installation .......................................................... 4 Spark plug replacement ....................................................See Chapter 1 Charging system - check ..................................................................... 10 Spark plug wire check ...................................................... See Chapter 1 Charging system - general information and precautions .......................9 Starter motor - in-vehicle check .......................................................... 13 CHECK ENGINE light ....................................................... See Chapter 6 Starter motor - removal and installation ...............................................14 Distributor (V6 engine only) - removal and installation ...........................8 Starting system - general information and precautions.......................12 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement ................. See Chapter 1 5 Specifications General Battery voltage........................................................................................ 12 volts (approximate) Engine firing order Four-cylinder engines ........................................................................ 1-3-4-2 V6 engine........................................................................................... 1-2-3-4-5-6 ignition timing .......................................................................................... Not adjustable Ignition system ignition coil resistance (approximate, at 70 to 80-degrees F) Four-cylinder engines Primary resistance ........................................................................ 0.51 to 0.61 ohms Secondary resistance ................................................................... 11,000 to 13,500 ohms V6 engine Primary resistance ........................................................................ 0.6 to 0.8 ohms Secondary resistance................................................................... 12,000 to 18,000 ohms Spark plug wire resistance (approximate) Four-cylinder engines Wires 1 and 4 ................................................................................ 3,500 to 4,900 ohms Wires 2 and 3 ................................................................................ 2,950 to 4,100 ohms V6 engine Minimum....................................................................................... 250 ohms per inch (3,000 ohms per foot) Maximum ...................................................................................... 560 ohms per inch (6,700 ohms per foot) Torque specifications Distributor hold-down nuts ...................................................................... 108 in-lbs Starter motor mounting bolts .................................................................. 40 ft-lbs
    155. 5-2 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 1 General information, precautions and battery disconnection General information The engine electrical systems include all ignition, charging and starting components. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are discussed separately from body electrical devices such as the lights, the instruments, etc. (which are included in Chapter 12). Precautions Always observe the following precautions when working on the electrical system: (a) Be extremely careful when servicing 1.4b . . . then detach the cable and push engine electrical components. They are the hole in the cable insulator over easily damaged if checked, connected 1.4a To disconnect battery power from the stud or handled improperly. the vehicle, remove the nut from the ground stud on the left strut (b) Never leave the ignition switched on for work is carried out. long periods of time when the engine is tower (arrow) .. . Warning: Some of these devices allow a con- not running. siderable amount of current to pass, which (c) Don't disconnect the battery cables first note the following to ensure that there can mean that many of the vehicle's systems while the engine is running. are no unforeseen consequences of this are still operational when the main battery is (d) Maintain correct polarity when connect- action: disconnected. If a "memory-saver" is used, ing battery cables from another vehicle (a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, ensure that the circuit concerned is actually during jump starting - see the "Booster it is a wise precaution to remove the key "dead" before carrying out any work on it! battery Gump) starting" section at the from the ignition and to keep it with you, front of this manual. so that it does not get locked in if the (e) Always disconnect the negative cable central locking should engage acciden- 2 Battery - emergency jump first, and reconnect it last, or the battery tally when the battery is reconnected! starting may be shorted by the tool being used (b) The engine management system's PCM to loosen the cable clamps. will lose the information stored in its Refer to the Booster battery Gump) start- It's also a good idea to review the memory when the battery is discon- ing procedure at the front of this manual. safety-related information regarding the nected. This includes idling and operat- engine electrical systems located in the ing values, and any fault codes detected "Safety first!" section at the front of this man- (see Chapter 6). Whenever the battery is ual, before beginning any operation included disconnected, the information relating to 3 Battery cables - check and in this Chapter. idle speed control and other operating replacement values will have to be re-programmed Battery disconnection into the unit's memory. The PCM does 1 Periodically inspect the entire length of Refer to illustrations 1.4a and 1.4b this by itself, but until then, there may be each battery cable for damage, cracked or The battery on these vehicles is located surging, hesitation, erratic idle and a burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery behind the left fender, in front of the left front generally inferior level of performance. cable connections can cause starting prob- To allow the PCM to relearn these val- lems and decreased engine performance. wheel. Since the battery terminals cannot be easily accessed, the manufacturer has pro- ues, start the engine and run it as close 2 Check the cable-to-terminal connec- to idle speed as possible until it reaches tions at the ends of the cables for cracks, vided a remote ground terminal on the left its normal operating temperature, then loose wire strands and corrosion. The pres- shock tower and also a remote positive ter- minal for jump starting purposes. To discon- run it for approximately two minutes at ence of white, fluffy deposits under the insu- 1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far lation at the cable terminal connection at the nect the battery for service procedures requiring power to be cut from the vehicle, as necessary - approximately 5 miles of battery is a sign that the cable is corroded remove the nut and detach the negative varied driving conditions is usually suffi- and should be replaced. Check the terminals cient - to complete the relearning pro- for distortion, missing mounting bolts and cable from the ground stud on the strut tower, then press the hole in the side of the cess. corrosion. cable insulator over the stud (see illustra- Devices known as "memory-savers" can 3 When removing the cables, always dis- tions). This will isolate the cable end and pre- be used to avoid some of the above prob- connect the negative cable first and hook it vent it from accidentally coming into contact lems. Precise details vary according to the up last or the battery may be shorted by the with ground. device used. Typically, it is plugged into the tool used to loosen the cables. Even if only Several systems on the vehicle require cigarette lighter, and is connected by its own the positive cable is being replaced, be sure battery power to be available at all times, wires to a spare battery; the vehicle's own to disconnect the negative cable from the either to ensure their continued operation battery is then disconnected from the electri- ground terminal on the left shock tower first! (such as the clock) or to maintain control unit cal system, leaving the "memory-saver" to 4 Disconnect the old cables from the bat- memories (such as that in the engine man- pass sufficient current to maintain audio unit tery (see Section 4), then trace each of them agement system's Powertrain Control Mod- security codes and PCM memory values, and to their remote terminals and detach them. ule [PCM]) which would be wiped out if the also to run permanently live circuits such as Note the routing of each cable to ensure cor- battery were to be disconnected. Therefore, the clock, all the while isolating the battery in rect installation. whenever the battery is to be disconnected, the event of a short-circuit occurring while 5 Check the cables that connect the
    156. Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-3 4.3 Removing the battery cover/splash 4.4 Always disconnect the negative 4.5a Removing the battery strap and shield from the left front wheel well battery cable first and attach it last! hold-down bracket bolt 5 4.5b Removing the battery strap upper nut 4.7 Position the cables out of the way and slide the battery out of the fenderwell - be careful, it's heavy! starter solenoid and ground terminals to the jackstands. Remove the wheel. remote terminals. If they require replacement, 4 Battery - removal and installation 3 Remove the battery cover/splash shield note the routing of each cable to ensure cor- from the wheel well by turning the four plastic rect installation and detach them. Refer to illustrations 4.3, 4.4, 4.5a, 4.5b and fasteners 1/4-turn counterclockwise (see 6 If you are replacing a cable, take it along 4.7 illustration). with you when purchasing a new one. It is Warning: Certain precautions must be fol- 4 Using a box-end wrench, disconnect vitally important that you replace it with an lowed when checking and servicing the bat- the negative cable from the battery first, then identical part. Cables have characteristics tery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive, the positive cable (see illustration). that make them easy to identify: positive is produced by the battery. Keep lighted 5 Remove the bolt and nut securing the cables are usually red and larger in cross- tobacco, open flames, bare light bulbs or battery strap and hold-down bracket, then section; ground cables are usually black and other possible sources of ignition away from remove the them (see illustrations). smaller in cross-section. the battery. Furthermore, the electrolyte 6 Vehicles manufactured with the cold 7 Clean all connections with a wire brush inside the battery is sulfuric acid which is weather package option (Alaska, Canada and to remove rust, oxidation and corrosion. highly corrosive and can burn your skin and northern USA) are equipped with a battery Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly or grease cause severe injury to your eyes. Always wear blanket heater. If equipped, disconnect the to all fastener threads to prevent future corro- eye protection! It will also destroy clothing blanket heater electrical connector. sion. and ruin painted surfaces. 7 Remove the battery from the vehicle 8 Attach the cable to it's proper connec- Note: The battery on these vehicles is located (see illustration). Be careful - it's heavy. tion and tighten the mounting fastener inside the fenderwell of the left front fender Note: Battery handling tools are available at securely. Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly and can be removed without removing the most auto parts stores for a reasonable price. or grease to the connection to seal it and help wheel. However, removing the wheel makes They make it easier to remove and carry the prevent future corrosion. the job much easier. battery. 9 Before connecting a new cable to the 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable 8 If equipped, remove the battery blanket battery, make sure that it reaches the battery from the ground stud on the left shock tower heater from around the battery. without having to be stretched. (see Section 1). 9 While the battery is removed, inspect 10 Connect the positive cable first, fol- 2 Loosen the left front wheel lug nuts, the tray, strap, hold-down bracket and lowed by the negative cable. raise the vehicle and support it securely on related fasteners for corrosion or damage. 10 If corrosion is evident on the battery
    157. 5-4 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 6.4b Distributor terminal identification 1 Camshaft position sensor terminals 2 Coil primary terminals 3 Coil secondary terminal (hi-tension tower) 6.4a Distributor cap and rotor - V6 engine only 1 Coil terminal 3 Rotor 2 Rotor button 6.6 Using a calibrated ignition tester to visually verify spark is 6.9 On four-cylinder engines, connect a test light between the reaching the spark plugs - If the engine starts during this check, coil electrical connector center terminal and one of the outer do not let it run more than 1 minute or damage to the catalytic terminals. Crank the engine. The test light should blink on-and-off converter may occur tray, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove tion wires and spark plugs, the camshaft it. Use baking soda/water solution to clean position sensor, the crankshaft position sen- Ignition system - check corroded parts to prevent further oxidation. sor and the Powertrain Control Module Repaint parts as necessary using rust resis- (PCM). The PCM controls the ignition timing Refer to illustrations 6.4a, 6.4b, 6.6 and 6.9 tant paint. and spark advance characteristics for the Warning: Because of the very high voltage 11 Clean and service the battery and engine. The ignition timing is not adjustable. generated by the ignition system (approxi- cables (see Chapter 1). The crankshaft sensor and camshaft mately 40,000 volts), extreme care should be 12 If you are replacing the battery, make sensor generate voltage pulses that are sent taken whenever an operation is performed sure you purchase one that is identical to to the PCM. The PCM then determines the involving ignition components. This not only yours, with the same dimensions, amperage crankshaft position, injector sequence and includes the coil and spark plug wires, but rating, cold cranking amps rating, etc. Make ignition timing. The PCM supplies battery related items connected to the system as sure it is fully charged prior to installation in voltage to the ignition coil through the Auto- well, such as the electrical connectors, the vehicle. matic Shutdown Relay (ASD). The PCM also tachometer and any test equipment. 13 Installation is the reverse of removal. controls the ground circuit for the coil. 1 With the ignition switch turned to the Make sure you install the negative cable last. If the PCM does not receive a signal "ON" position, a glowing instrument panel 14 After connecting the cables to the bat- from the crankshaft or camshaft position sen- "Battery" light or "Oil Pressure" light is a tery, apply a light coating of petroleum jelly or sors, the PCM signals the ASD relay and fuel basic check for battery voltage supply to the grease to the connections to help prevent pump relay to shut down the ignition and fuel ignition system and PCM. corrosion. delivery systems respectively. Refer to Chap- 2 First, check all ignition wiring connec- 15 Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque ter 6 for testing and replacement procedures tions for tightness, cuts, corrosion or any given in the Chapter 1 Specifications. for the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. other signs of a bad connection. On four-cylinder engines, the secondary 3 Check the condition of the spark plug ignition system is controlled by energizing the wires (see Chapter 1). Using an ohmmeter. 5 Ignition system - general coil drivers in the proper firing order. On V6 measure the resistance of each spark plug information engines, a conventional type distributor with wire and compare the measured value to the a rotor is used to send the ignition voltage to resistance value listed in this Chapter's All models are equipped with an elec- the proper cylinder in the firing order. On V6 Specifications. A bad spark plug wire or poor tronic ignition system. The ignition system engines, the ignition coil and camshaft posi- connection at the spark plug or coil (four- consists of the ignition switch, the battery, tion sensor are part of the distributor, which cylinder engines) or distributor cap (V6 the coil, the primary (low voltage) and sec- is located on the rear of the engine on the engine) could also result in a misfire. ondary (high voltage) wiring circuits, the igni- right side (rear) cylinder head and driven by 4 On V6 engines, remove the distributo r the camshaft (see Section 8). cap and rotor (see Steps 7 thru 10 in Sec-
    158. Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-5 7.4 Test each coil's primary resistance by connecting one probe 7.5 Checking the secondary resistance of coil "1" - repeat the of the ohmmeter to the center terminal and the other probe to test for coil "2". The secondary resistance of each coil should be each end terminal. The primary resistance of each coil should be within specifications within specifications tion 7). Inspect the cap and rotor for mois- inside the coil pack. Note: It is not necessary age for cylinders 1 and 4, while coil "2" sup- ture, cracks, erosion, carbon tracks, worn to perform this check at another location on plies voltage for cylinders 2 and 3. rotor button or other damage (see illustra- V6 engines because that system uses a single 2 Clearly label the spark plug wires and tion). Remove one spark plug wire at a time coil. detach them from the coil pack. from the cap (so they don't get mixed up) and 8 If spark is present, the coil is firing, how- 3 Disconnect the primary wiring electrical check the terminals inside the cap for corro- ever, the spark plugs themselves may be connector from the coil pack. sion, which will appear as a white crusty fouled or damaged, so remove and check 4 Measure the each coil primary resis- powder (slight corrosion can be removed them (see Chapter 1) or install new ones. tance; connect an ohmmeter between the with a screwdriver or round wire brush). On 9 If no spark or intermittent sparks occur, center terminal (B+) and one of the outer ter- the distributor cap, use an ohmmeter to mea- disconnect the coil electrical connector (see minals and note the resistance (see illustra- sure the resistance between the rotor button illustration) and connect a test light to the tion). Repeat the check with the probe con- and the coil terminal. The resistance should center terminal of the coil electrical connector nected to the other outer terminal. Compare be approximately 5,000 ohms. On the distrib- and one of the outer terminals on four-cylin- the measured resistances with the coil pri- utor, inspect the coil hi-tension tower for der engines or across both harness terminals mary resistance value listed in this Chapter's cracks, carbon tracks or corrosion (see illus- on V6 engines (see illustration 6.4b). Specifications. Replace the coil if the primary tration). If the coil is found to be defective, 10 With the test light placed where you can resistance is out of tolerance. the entire distributor must be replaced. If the see it from the driver's seat, crank the engine 5 Next, measure the secondary resistance 5 cap or rotor is defective and the ignition com- and watch the test light. It should flash of each coil; connect an ohmmeter between ponents (including spark plugs) have been in on-and-off while the engine is cranking. If the spark plug wire terminals 1 and 4 and note service for more than 60,000 miles, the man- test light does not blink, check the wiring har- the resistance (see illustration). Repeat the ufacturer recommends replacing all ignition ness for damage or a short. If the wiring is check on terminals 2 and 3. Compare the components at the same time. OK, check the operation of the Automatic measured resistances with the secondary 5 If the engine turns over but won't start, Shutdown (ASD) relay (see Chapter 4). If nec- resistance value listed in this Chapter's disconnect the number 1 spark plug wire essary, check the operation of the camshaft Specifications. Replace the coil if the sec- (four-cylinder engines) or the number 2 spark and crankshaft position sensors (see Chapter ondary resistance is out of tolerance. plug wire (V6 engines) (see Chapter 1 if nec- 6). If the ASD relay and cam/crank sensors 6 Install the spark plug wires in their essary) and install a calibrated ignition tester check out OK, have the PCM diagnosed by a proper locations and connect the primary (available at most auto parts stores). Make dealer service department or other qualified wiring electrical connector. sure the tester is designed for Chrysler elec- repair shop. tronic ignition systems if a universal tester is 11 If voltage is present (light blinks), check V6 engine not available. the ignition coil (see Section 7) and replace it 7 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see 6 Connect the clip of the tester to a bolt or if necessary. Chapter 4). metal bracket located on the engine (see illus- 12 If these checks do not identify the prob- 8 Remove the EGR tube (see Chapter 6). tration). Note: If an ignition tester is not avail- lem, further diagnosis should be performed 9 Label each spark plug wire to it's loca- able, a good spark plug with the gap set to the by a dealer service department or other qual- tion in the distributor cap and then discon- maximum tolerance can also be used. Ground ified repair shop. nect them. the threaded portion of the spark plug to the 10 Loosen the 2 screws and remove the engine. Crank the engine while observing the distributor cap. ignition tester - if bright blue, well defined 7 Ignition coil - check and 11 Disconnect the primary wiring electrical sparks occur, sufficient voltage is reaching the connector (two-pin) from the distributor (see replacement spark plug to fire it. Caution: If the engine illustration 6.4b). starts, do not run the engine for longer than 12 Measure the coil primary resistance; one minute during this test - the raw fuel Check connect an ohmmeter across the terminals of escaping from the cylinder being tested may the two-pin connector on the distributor and Four-cylinder engines note the resistance. Compare the measured cause damage to the catalytic converter. 7 On four-cylinder engines, perform this Refer to illustrations 7.4 and 7.5 resistance with the coil primary resistance check at the number 2 spark plug location 1 Located inside the coil pack are two value listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If also. This will check the other ignition coil individual ignition coils. Coil "1" supplies volt - the coil primary resistance is out of tolerance,
    159. 5-6 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems SPARK PLUG CABLES 8.5 Distributor 7.17 After disconnecting the wiring harness electrical connector, electrical connections DISTRIBUTOR remove the coil pack mounting nuts and lift the coil from the CONNECTORS valve cover the entire distributor must be replaced - the duct tape or equivalent. coil is not serviceable. 5 Disconnect the electrical connectors 13 Measure the coil secondary resistance; from the distributor (see illustration). using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance 6 Label each spark plug wire to it's loca- between the coil hi-tension tower terminal tion in the distributor cap and then discon- and each terminal of the two-pin connector. nect them. Compare the measured resistances with the 7 Remove the spark plug wire routing secondary resistance value listed in this bracket from the distributor. Chapter's Specifications. If the coil sec- 8 Loosen the two screws and remove the ondary resistance is out of tolerance, the distributor cap (see illustration). entire distributor must be replaced - the coil 9 Using a felt tip pen and/or a piece of is not serviceable. tape, match-mark the rotor tip to the distribu- 14 Install the distributor cap and related tor body. components in the reverse order of removal. 10 Remove the two nuts and washers securing the distributor and withdraw it from Replacement the cylinder head. Four-cylinder engines Installation Refer to illustration 7.17 11 Inspect the distributor 0-ring seal for 15 Label the spark plug wires and detach hardness, cracks, swelling or other damage 8.8 Distributor cap mounting screws them from the coil pack. and replace it if necessary. 16 Disconnect the primary wiring electrical 12 Install the rotor onto the distributor connector from the coil pack. shaft. 15 The remaining installation steps are the 17 Remove the coil pack mounting nuts 13 Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to reverse of removal with the following addi- (see illustration) and lift the coil pack from the distributor 0-ring seal and carefully insert tions: the mounting bracket on the valve cover. the distributor into the cylinder head with the a) Check and replace if necessary, the 18 Installation is the reverse of removal. rotor aligned with the previously applied transaxle dipstick tube 0-ring seal. V6 engine match-mark. Make sure the distributor is fully Apply a light coat of clean transaxle fluid seated in the cylinder head and secure with to the seal before installation. 19 The ignition coil on V6 engines is not the two nuts and washers. Tighten the dis- b) Use new gaskets on the EGR tube and serviceable. If the coil is defective, replace tributor hold-down nuts to the torque given in tighten the bolts to the torque listed in the distributor assembly (see Section 8). this Chapter's Specifications. the Specification Section of Chapter 6. 14 If engine was rotated while the distribu- tor was removed, proceed as follows: 8 Distributor (V6 engine only) - removal and installation a) Rotate the engine to Top Dead Center 9 Charging system - general for number 1 piston (see Chapter 2C). information and precautions b) Using an ohmmeter, perform a continu- Removal ity test on the distributor cap to identify the location of the number 1 terminal The charging system includes the alter- Refer to illustrations 8.5 and 8.8 nator, a charge indicator light, the battery, the Disconnect the negative battery cable inside the cap and mark it's location on 1 Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the ASD the outside of the cap. from the ground stud on the left shock tower. relay, a fusible link and the wiring between all c) Place the cap onto the distributor and 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see the components. The charging system sup- Chapter 4). place another mark on the distributor body in line with the number 1 terminal plies electrical power to maintain the battery 3 Remove the EGR tube (see Chapter 6). at its full charge capacity. The alternator is 4 Clean the area around and then remove mark on the cap. Remove the cap. d) Perform Steps 11 thru 13. After installa - driven by a drivebelt on the front of the the transaxle fluid dipstick tube. To prevent engine. foreign debris from entering the transaxle, tion, use the distributor cap to make The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) cover the dipstick hole in the transaxle with 'sure the rotor is pointed at the number 1 terminal. within the PCM varies the battery charge rate
    160. Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-7 in accordance with driving conditions. b) Never start the engine with a battery b) Check the alternator wiring connections; Depending on electric load, vehicle speed, charger connected. make sure they are clean and tight. engine coolant temperature, battery tempera- c) Before using arc welding equipment to c) Check the battery voltage. If its less than ture sensor, accessories (air conditioning repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect 12 volts, charge the battery (see Chap- system, radio, cruise control etc.) and the the wiring from the alternator and the ter 1). intake air temperature, the PCM will adjust cables from the battery. d) Check the drivebelt condition and ten- the amount of voltage generated, creating d) Always disconnect both battery cables sion (see Chapter 1). less load on the engine. 5 before using a battery charger. e) Check the alternator mounting bolts for The purpose of the voltage regulator is e) The alternator is turned by an engine tightness. to limit the alternator's voltage to a preset drivebelt which could cause serious f) Run the engine and check the alternator value. This prevents power surges, circuit injury if your hands, hair or clothes for abnormal noise. overloads, etc., during peak voltage output. become entangled in it with the engine 2 Check the battery temperature sensor. Since the EVR is contained within the PCM, running. Remove the front bumper (see Chapter 11). the PCM must be replaced in the event of f) Because the alternator is connected Locate the battery temperature sensor on the EVR failure. directly to the battery, it could arc or driver's side of the front bumper bar (see Four-cylinder models are equipped with cause a fire if overloaded or shorted out. illustration). Disconnect the electrical con- a Nippondenso type alternator and V6 mod- g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator nector from the sensor. Using an ohmmeter, els use a Mitsubishi (MELCO) alternator. Both and secure it with rubber bands before measure the resistance between the sensor types have a rating of 90 amperes. The alter- steam cleaning the engine. electrical terminals. With the air temperature nator is not serviceable and therefore must at approximately 75 to 80-degrees F, the be replaced as a unit in the event of failure. The charging system doesn't ordinarily 10 Charging system - check require periodic maintenance. However, the drivebelt, battery, wires and connections Refer to illustrations 10.1 and 10.2 should be inspected at the intervals outlined Note: These vehicles are equipped with an in Chapter 1. The dashboard warning light should illu- On Board Diagnostic (OBD-ll) system that is useful for detecting charging system prob- minate when the ignition key is turned to ON, but it should go off immediately after the lems. Refer to Chapter 6 for the trouble code extracting procedures. engine is started. If it remains on, there is a 1 If a malfunction occurs in the charging malfunction in the charging system which circuit (see illustration), do not immediately must be diagnosed (see Section 10). assume that the alternator is causing the Be very careful when making electrical problem. First check the following items: circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with an alternator and note the following: a) The battery cables where they connect to the battery and at the remote termi- a) When reconnecting wires to the alterna- nals. Make sure the connections are tor from the battery, be sure to note the 10.2 Battery temperature sensor (arrow) - clean and tight (see Section 3). polarity. front bumper removed
    161. 5-8 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 11.8a Alternator mounting details - 2.0L four-cylinder engine 11.8b Alternator 11.6 Alternator electrical connections - mounting details - 2.4L four-cylinder engines four-cylinder engine resistance should be 9,000 to 11,000 ohms. If the resistance is out of tolerance, replace the sensor. 3 Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. It should be approximately 12 volts. 4 Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. If the system is operating properly, the voltage should increase to a same on both the old and new alternators. Installation value between 13 to 15 volts. 2 Many new/rebuilt alternators do not 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. 5 If the indicated voltage reading is less or have a pulley installed, so you may have to 11 After the alternator is installed, adjust more than the specified charging voltage, switch the pulley from the old unit to the the drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1). have the PCM diagnosed at a dealer service new/rebuilt one. When buying an alternator, 12 Check the charging voltage to verify department or other qualified repair shop. find out the shop's policy regarding pulleys; proper operation of the alternator (see Sec- The voltage regulator on these models is some shops will perform this service free of tion 10). contained within the PCM and it cannot be charge. removed or serviced in any way. 6 Due to the special equipment necessary V6 engine to test the PCM and alternator, it is recom- Four-cylinder engines Removal mended that if a fault is suspected, the vehi- Removal Refer to illustrations 11.14, 11.16 and 11.18 cle be taken to a dealer service department Refer to illustrations 11.6, 11.8a and 11.8b 13 Disconnect the negative battery cable or other qualified repair shop with the proper 3 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower equipment. Because of this, the home from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Section 1). mechanic should limit maintenance to check- (see Section 1). 14 Disconnect the electrical connector and ing connections and the inspection and 4 On 1995 to 1997 models with 2.4L B+ cable from the alternator (see illustra- replacement of the alternator itself. As a gen- engines equipped with anti-lock brakes, dis- tion). eral rule, when the battery is in good condi- connect the electrical connector and remove tion and all electrical connections are clean the two lower plate mounting bolts securing and tight, if the charging voltage is low, the the Controller Anti-lock Brakes (CAB) and alternator is faulty. If the charging voltage is withdraw it from the vehicle (see Chapter 9). high, the voltage regulator is the problem. 5 On 2.4L engines, remove the engine coolant reservoir (see Chapter 3). 6 Disconnect the electrical connector and 11 Alternator - removal and B+ cable from the alternator (see illustra- installation tion). 7 Loosen the drivebelt adjustment bolts and nut, then detach the alternator drivebelt General information (see Chapter 1). 1 If you are replacing the alternator, take 8 Remove the pivot bolt and spacer (see the old one with you when purchasing a illustrations). replacement unit. Make sure the new/rebuilt 9 While supporting the alternator, remove unit looks identical to the old alternator. Look the T-bolt, adjustment nut and bolt, then sep- at the terminals - they should be the same in arate the alternator from the bracket. Maneu- number, size and location as the terminals on ver it toward the passenger side of the vehi- the old alternator. Finally, look at the identifi- cle and remove it from the engine compart- cation numbers - they will be stamped into ment. Note: On 2.4L engines equipped with the housing or printed on a tag attached to air conditioning, slide the alternator under the 11.14 Alternator electrical connections the housing. Make sure the numbers are the air conditioning lines. (arrows) - V6 engine
    162. Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-9 11.16 Alternator mounting bolts (arrows) - V6 engine 12.2 Typical starter system diagram 11.18 Alternator upper bracket mounting bolts (arrows) - V6 engine 15 Remove the drivebelt from the alternator motor assembly on 2.4L four-cylinder b) The starter is connected directly to the 5 (see Chapter 1). engines uses an offset gear reduction sys- battery and could arc or cause a fire if 16 Loosen the upper and lower mounting tem. The starter motor/solenoid for all models mishandled, overloaded or shorted out. bolts (see illustration). is not serviceable and is sold strictly as a c) Always detach the negative battery 17 Remove the lower mounting bolt and complete assembly. cable from the ground stud on the left spacer - be careful not to drop the spacer or 2 The starting system consists of the bat- shock tower before working on the start- nut. tery, the starter motor, the starter solenoid, ing system. 18 While supporting the alternator, remove the starter relay, clutch start switch (manual the two bolts securing the alternator upper transaxles), PARK/NEUTRAL switch (auto- 13 Starter motor - in-vehicle check bracket to the cylinder head (see illustration) matic transaxles), ignition switch and the and then remove the bracket and the alterna- wires that connect the components (see tor. illustration). The solenoid is located on the Refer to illustration 13.7 19 Remove the upper mounting bolt and starter motor which is located on the side of 1 Make sure the battery is fully charged separate the bracket from the alternator. the engine mounted to the transaxle bell- and all cable/connections - at the battery, housing towards the front of the vehicle. starter solenoid terminals and remote termi- Installation 3 When the ignition key is turned to the nals - are clean and secure. 20 Installation is the reverse of removal. Start position, the starter solenoid is actuated 2 If the starter motor does not function at 21 After the alternator is installed, adjust through the starter control circuit which all when the switch is operated, make sure the drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1). includes a starter relay located in the Power the shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic 22 Check the charging voltage to verify Distribution Center. The starter solenoid then transaxles) and check the operation of the proper operation of the alternator (see Sec- connects the battery to the starter. The bat- PARK/NEUTRAL switch (see Chapter 7B). On tion 10). tery supplies the electrical energy to the vehicles equipped with manual transaxles, starter motor, which does the actual work of check the operation of the clutch start switch cranking the engine. (see Chapter 8). 4 Always observe the following precau- 3 If the starter motor spins but the engine 12 Starting system - general tions when working on the starting system: is not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the information and precautions a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor starter motor is slipping and the starter motor can overheat it and cause serious dam- must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the Refer to illustration 12.2 age. Never operate the starter motor for driveplate may be worn. Inspect it after 1 The starter motor assemblies used on more than 15 seconds at a time without removing the starter. 2.0L four-cylinder and V6 engines use a plan- pausing for at least two minutes to allow 4 If, when the switch is actuated, the etary gear reduction system. The starter it to cool. starter motor does not operate at all but the
    163. 5-10 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Section 1). 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). 3 On vehicles equipped with automatic transaxles, remove the Transmission Control Module (TCM) from its mounting and position it out of the way (see Chapter 7B). Note: DO NOT disconnect the electrical connector from TCM. 4 Remove the starter motor upper mount- ing bolt (see illustration). 5 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- port it securely on jackstands. 6 Clearly label, then disconnect the wires from the terminals on the starter motor solenoid. 7 While supporting the starter motor, 13.7 The starter relay (arrow) is located in remove the lower mounting bolt and with- the Power Distribution Center inside the draw the starter motor from the vehicle. 14.4 Starter motor electrical connections engine compartment and mounting details - four-cylinder engine Installation 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the starter motor mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica- PUSH ON tions. SOLENOID CONNECTOR V6 engine Removal Refer to illustrations 14.12 and 14.13 9 Detach the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see 14.12 Starter motor electrical connections Section 1). and mounting details - V6 engine 10 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- port it securely on jackstands. 11 Remove the oil filter (see Chapter 1 if necessary). solenoid clicks, the problem lies with either wrong viscosity oil in it, it will crank slowly. 12 Disconnect the wires from the terminals the battery, the main solenoid contacts or the 10 If the engine starts, run the engine until on the starter motor solenoid (see illustra- starter motor itself (or possibly the engine normal operating temperature is achieved, tion). may be seized). then turn off the engine. Remove the fuel 13 While supporting the starter motor, 5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard pump relay to keep the engine from starting remove the three bolts securing it to the when the switch is actuated, the battery may (see Chapter 4 if necessary). transaxle bellhousing (see illustration) and be faulty, the fusible link may be burned (the 11 Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the remove the starter motor from the vehicle. circuit is open), the starter relay may be faulty positive remote battery terminal and the neg- or the solenoid itself is defective. ative lead to the negative remote battery ter- Installation 6 To check the solenoid, connect a minal. 14 Installation is the reverse of removal. remote starter switch between the positive 12 Crank the engine and take the voltmeter Tighten the starter motor mounting bolts to remote battery terminal and the ignition reading as soon as a steady figure is indi- the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica- switch wire terminal (the small terminal) on cated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn tions. the solenoid. If the starter motor operates for more than 15 seconds at a time. A reading when the remote switch is activated, the of 9 volts or more, with the starter motor turn- solenoid is OK and the problem is elsewhere ing at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the in the circuit. reading is 9 volts or more but the cranking 7 Locate the starter relay in the Power speed is slow, the motor, solenoid contacts Distribution Center (PDC) (see illustration). or circuit connections are faulty. If the read- Remove the relay and perform the identical ing is less than 9 volts and the cranking tests as for the Automatic Shutdown Relay speed is slow, the starter motor is probably (ASD) and the fuel pump relay in Chapter 4, bad. Section 3. Replace the relay if it does not function as described. 8 If the starter motor still does not oper- 14 Starter motor - removal and ate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for installation replacement as a complete unit (see Sec- tion 14). 9 If the starter motor cranks the engine at Four-cylinder engines an abnormally slow speed, first make sure Removal 14.13 Starter motor mounting bolts that the battery is fully charged and that all electrical connections are clean and tight. If Refer to illustration 14.4 (arrows) as viewed from under the vehicle 1 Detach the negative battery cable from - V6 engine the engine is partially seized, or has the
    164. Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems Contents Section Section Catalytic converter system - description, Information sensors and output actuators - description, check and replacement ....................................................................8 check and replacement .................................................................... 3 CHECK ENGINE light .............................................................................2 On board diagnosis (OBD-II) system - description and Evaporative emission control system (EVAP) - description, trouble code access......................................................................... 2 check and component replacement.................................................7 Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system - check Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system - description, and replacement ..........................................................See Chapter 1 check and component replacement.................................................6 General information ................................................................................1 Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system - general description........................................................................................5 6 Idle Air Control (IAC) motor - check and replacement .... See Chapter 4 Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - check and replacement ................4 Specifications Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) Camshaft sensor (four-cylinder engines) Sensor bolts....................................................................................... 105 in-lbs Target magnet bolt ............................................................................. 40 in-lbs Crankshaft sensor retaining bolt ............................................................. 105 in-lbs Engine Coolant Temperature sensor 2.0L four-cylinder engine ................................................................... 60 in-lbs 2.4L four-cylinder and V6 engines ..................................................... 20 EGR tube bolts ........................................................................................ 95 in-lbs EGR valve-to-cylinder head bolts ............................................................ 200 in-lbs Intake Air Temperature sensor 2.0L four-cylinder engine (1995 only) ................................................. 60 in-lbs 2.4L four-cylinder and V6 engines ..................................................... 100 in-lbs Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (four-cylinder engines) Plastic intake manifold ....................................................................... 20 in-lbs Aluminum intake manifold .................................................................. 30 in-lbs Knock sensor .......................................................................................... 90 in-lbs Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor bolts (V6 engine) ............................. 30 in-lbs Oxygen sensor........................................................................................ 20
    165. 6-2 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 1.5 The Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label is located in the engine compartment on the upper radiator support and contains information on engine type, tune-up specifications, type of emissions control devices used on your vehicle and a vacuum diagram ranty has expired, you may wish to perform 1 General information some of the component checks and/or replacement procedures in this Chapter to Refer to illustration 1.5 save money. 2.1 Digital multi-meters can be used for 5 Pay close attention to any special pre- testing all types of circuits; because of 1 To prevent pollution of the atmosphere cautions outlined in this Chapter. A Vehicle their high impedance, they are much more from incompletely burned and evaporating Emissions Control Information (VECI) label is accurate than analog type meters for fuel gases and to maintain good driveability located in the engine compartment (see measuring low voltage computer circuits and fuel economy, a number of emission control systems are incorporated. The major illustration). This label contains important systems incorporated on the vehicles with emissions specifications and adjustment which this manual is concerned include the: information. When servicing the engine or emissions systems, check the VECI label for Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) information on your particular vehicle. system Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Oxygen sensor (02) system Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) 2 On Board Diagnosis (OBD-II) system system - description and trouble Powertrain Control Module (PCM) code access (computer) and information sensors Catalytic converter 2 The Sections in this Chapter include Diagnostic tool information general descriptions, checking procedures Refer to illustrations 2.1 and 2.2 within the scope of the home mechanic and 1 A digital multi-meter is necessary for component replacement procedures (when checking fuel injection and emission related possible) for each of the systems listed components (see illustration). A digital volt- above. ohmmeter is preferred over the older style 3 Before assuming an emissions control analog multi-meter for several reasons. The 2.2 Scanners like the Actron ScanTool system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and analog multi-meter cannot display the volt, and the AutoXray XP240 are powerful ignition systems carefully. The diagnosis of ohms or amps measurement in hundredths diagnostic aids - programmed with some emission control devices requires spe- and thousandths increments. When working comprehensive diagnostic information, cialized tools, equipment and training. If with electronic circuits which are often very they can tell you just about anything you checking and servicing become too difficult low voltage, this accurate reading is most want to know about your electronic or if a procedure is beyond your ability, con- important. Another good reason for the digital engine management system sult a dealer service department or other multi-meter is the high impedance circuit. qualified service facility. Remember, the most The digital multi-meter is equipped with a tool must be examined carefully to match the frequent cause of emissions problems is sim- high resistance internal circuitry (10 million year, make and model of the vehicle you are ply a loose or broken vacuum hose or wire, ohms). Because a voltmeter is hooked up in working on. Often interchangeable cartridges so always check the hose and electrical con- parallel with the circuit when testing, it is vital are available to access the particular manu- nections that interconnect the components that none of the voltage being measured facturer (Chrysler, Ford, GM, etc.). Some within each system first. should be allowed to travel the parallel path manufacturers will even specify by continent 4 This doesn't mean, however, that emis- set up by the meter itself. This dilemma does (Asia, Europe, USA, etc.). sion control systems are particularly difficult not show itself when measuring larger to maintain and repair. You can quickly and amounts of voltage (9 to 12 volt circuits) but if easily perform many checks and do most of you are measuring a low voltage circuit such OBD-ll system general the regular maintenance at home with com- as the oxygen sensor signal voltage, a frac- description mon tune-up and hand tools. Note: Because tion of a volt may be a significant amount 3 The OBD-ll system consists of an on- of a Federally mandated extended warranty when diagnosing a problem. board computer, known as the Powertrain which covers the emission control system 2 Hand-held scanners are the most pow- Control Module (PCM) and information sen- components, check with your dealer about erful and versatile tools for analyzing engine sors which monitor various functions of the warranty coverage before working on any management systems used on later model engine and then relay the data to the PCM. emissions-related systems. Once the war - vehicles (see illustration). Each brand scan Based on the data received and the informa-
    166. Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-3 tion programmed into the computer's mem- hoses. Make sure all electrical connections ory, the PCM then generates output signals are tight, clean and free of corrosion; make to control various engine functions via control sure all hoses are properly connected, fit relays, solenoids and other output actuators. tightly and are in good condition (no cracks or 4 The PCM, located in the engine com- tears). partment and mounted to a bracket between 11 The self-diagnosis information contained the air filter housing and the Power Distribu- in the PCM (computer) can be accessed tion Center (PDC), is the "brain" of the OBD-ll either by the ignition key or by using a scan system. The PCM is specifically calibrated to tool. This tool is attached to the diagnostic optimize the emissions, fuel economy and connector (see illustration) located under the driveability of the vehicle. left (driver's) side of the instrument panel in 5 Because of a Federally mandated the passenger compartment and reads the extended warranty which covers the OBD-II codes and parameters on the digital display system components and because any screen. The tool is expensive and most home owner-induced damage to the PCM, the sen- mechanics prefer to use the alternate sors and/or the control devices may void the method. The drawback with the ignition key warranty, it is not recommended to attempt method is that it does not access all the avail- 2.11 The OBD-ll diagnostic connector diagnosis of, or replace the PCM at home able codes for display. Most problems can be (arrow) is located under the left (driver's) while the vehicle is under warranty. Take the solved or diagnosed quite easily and if the side of the instrument panel vehicle to your local dealer service depart- information cannot be obtained readily, have ment if the PCM or a system component mal- the vehicle's self-diagnosis system analyzed functions. three seconds as a bulb test each time the by a dealer service department or other qual- engine is started. When the Powertrain Con- ified repair shop. Information sensors trol Module (PCM) detects a fault in the emis- 12 To obtain the codes using the ignition sions or engine control system it sets a trou- key method, first set the parking brake and 6 The following is a list of the OBD-II sys- ble code in the PCM's memory. If the PCM put the shift lever in Park. Raise the engine tem information sensors. For complete infor- detects a fault related to vehicle emissions, it speed to approximately 2,500 rpm and slowly mation and service procedures, refer to Sec- ill uminates the CHECK ENGINE light which let the speed down to idle. Also, if equipped, tion 3 (unless otherwise specified). means an emissions component or system is cycle the air conditioning system (on briefly, Brake switch in need of immediate service. In the event the then off). Next, on models equipped with an Camshaft Position sensor PCM detects an active engine misfire, the automatic transaxle, apply the brakes and Crankshaft Position sensor CHECK ENGINE light will flash continuously. select each position on the transmission Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor If this occurs, turn off the engine as soon as (Reverse, Drive, Low etc.), finally bring the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor possible and diagnose/correct the problem shifter back to Park and turn off the engine. Knock sensor or severe catalytic converter damage may This will allow the computer to obtain any Leak D