Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR FORD SIERRA
Introduction to the Ford Sierra Page 0•4
Acknowledgements Page 0•4
Safety first! Page 0•5
ROADSIDE REPAIRS
Jacking, vehicle support and wheel changing Page 0•6
Towing Page 0•7
Identifying leaks Page 0•8
Jump starting Page 0•9
Weekly Checks
Introduction Page 0•10
Underbonnet check points Page 0•10
Engine Oil level Page 0•12
Coolant level Page 0•12
Screen washer fluid level Page 0•13
Brake fluid level Page 0•13
Power steering fluid level Page 0•14
Electrical systems Page 0•14
Battery Page 0•15
Wiper blades Page 0•15
Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•16
Lubricants and fluids Page 0•17
Tyre pressures Page 0•18
MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and Servicing Page 1•1
Maintenance schedule Page 1•4
Maintenance procedures Page 1•9
Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
SOHC engines Page 2A•1
DOHC engines Page 2B•1
CVH engines Page 2C•1
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - fuel injection models Page 4B•1
Engine electrical systems Page 5•1
TRANSMISSION
Clutch Page 6•1
Manual gearbox Page 7A•1
Automatic transmission Page 7B•1
Propellor shaft Page 8•1
Final drive and driveshafts Page 9•1
BRAKES AND SUSPENSION
Braking system Page 10•1
Suspension and steering Page 11•1
BODY EQUIPMENT
Bodywork, trim and fittings Page 12•1
Body electrical systems Page 13•1
Wiring Diagrams Page 13•22
Reference
General dimensions and weights Page REF•1
Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3
General repair procedures Page REF•4
Tools and working facilities Page REF•5
MOT test checks Page REF•7
Fault finding Page REF•11
Glossary of technical terms Page REF•18
Index Page REF•23
Introduction
0•4
Introduction to the Ford Sierra
Towards the end of 1986, the 1.3 litre engine was phased out. In order
The Ford Sierra was first introduced in late 1982 with the option of
to fill a gap in the range, a Saloon body style, designated the Sapphire,
seven different engines and four different trim levels. This manual
was introduced in early 1987 and shortly afterwards, a 1.8 litre CVH
covers the four cylinder in-line petrol engines, but other models in the
engine replaced the previously used 1.8 litre SOHC engine throughout
range are fitted with V6 or diesel engines.
the model range.
The Sierra was introduced by Ford as the successor to the Cortina
A 1.6 litre CVH engine was introduced in September 1991 to replace
and initially received a mixed reception as it was one of the first
the 1.6 litre SOHC engine used previously, this engine being broadly
vehicles to make use of the “aeroback” body style designed to reduce
similar to the original 1.8 litre CVH engine which was in turn uprated in
the air drag coefficient to a minimum in the interests of fuel economy.
March, 1992.
Mechanically the Sierra is similar to the Cortina with the exception of
A 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead Camshaft) engine was in-
all-round independent suspension.
troduced in August 1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine.
Initially, 1.3, 1.6 and 2.0 litre SOHC carburettor engines were
In early 1988, a Sierra-based P100 pick-up model became available
available, with Hatchback and Estate body styles. In late 1984, a 1.8
to replace the previous Cortina-based design. The P100 consists of a
litre SOHC engine became available and in 1985, a performance
Sierra-type “cab” and front suspension, and a Ford Transit-type rear
orientated 2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection engine was introduced.
suspension and 2.0 litre engine.
A wide range of standard and optional
equipment is available within the Sierra
range to suit most tastes, including an
anti-lock braking system.
For the home mechanic, the Sierra is a
straightforward vehicle to maintain and
repair since design features have been
incorporated to reduce the actual cost of
ownership to a minimum, and most of the
items requiring frequent attention are
easily accessible.
Ford Sierra L
Ford Sierra Ghia Estate
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they
copyright of the Ford Motor Company and are used with their
do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or
permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who
publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions
provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at
from, the information given.
Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.
Safety First! 0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
Specia hazards
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
This page shows just some of the potential sure that any mains-operated equipment is
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a correctly earthed. Mains power points should Hydrofluoric acid
safety-conscious attitude. be protected by a residual current device
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
(RCD) circuit breaker.
General hazards when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
Fume or gas intoxication in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
Scalding exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The
• Exhaust fumes are
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
poisonous; they often
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
contain carbon
tank cap while the engine is hot.
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
monoxide, which is
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
amputate the limb concerned.
Never run the
hot if the engine has recently been running.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
engine in a
Burning suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
confined space
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
such as a garage
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and discard them after use.
with the doors shut.
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
• Fuel vapour is also
and drums can also be extremely hot The battery
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
immediately after use.
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Crushing attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
Poisonous or irritant substances when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• When working under or near
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
a raised vehicle,
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
always
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
supplement the
connecting and disconnecting battery
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
jack with axle
chargers or jump leads.
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
stands, or use
seek medical advice.
drive-on Air bags
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
ramps.
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
Never
accidentally. Take care when removing the
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
venture
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
under a car which
instructions may apply.
your pocket.
is only supported by a jack.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
• Take care if loosening or tightening high- Diesel injection equipment
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
Initial loosening and final tightening should
high pressure. Take care when working on
burns on contact.
be done with the wheels on the ground.
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Asbestos
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled Warning: Never expose the hands,
explosive. or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in face or any other part of the body
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. to injector spray; the fuel can
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights When dealing with such components it is penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a safest to assume that they contain asbestos. results.
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
Remember... A few tips
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
DON’T
DO
an inspection pit.
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
• Another cause of fire is an electrical • Do use eye protection when using power
which may be beyond your capability – get
overload or short-circuit. Take care when tools, and when working under the vehicle.
assistance.
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
protect your hands when necessary.
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
unverified short cuts.
• Do get someone to check periodically
Electric shock • Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
that all is well when working alone on the
and cause injury.
• Ignition HT vehicle.
voltage can be • Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
dangerous, where someone can trip over them. Mop
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
especially to up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
people with heart
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
working on the vehicle – especially the
problems or a
near a vehicle being worked on.
electrical system.
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
ignition system with
equipment has a safe working load rating
the engine running or
adequate for the job.
the ignition switched on.
Roadside repairs
0•6
Jacking, vehicle support and wheel changing
trim , then withdraw the jack and stow the
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit automatic transmission models. Place chocks
wheel and jack in thier respective locations.
should only be used for changing roadwheels. at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally
When jacking up the vehicle with a trolley
When carrying out any other kind of work, opposite the one to be changed.
jack, position the jack under one of the
raise the vehicle using a trolley jack, and Where applicable, remove the wheel trim
relevant jacking point (note that on P100
always supplement the jack with axle stands and slacken the wheel nuts using the wheel
models, the jackng points for use with a trolley
positioned under the vehicle jacking points. brace provided in the vehicle tool kit. Position
jack are different to those for use with the
To change a roadwheel, first remove the the jack head under the jacking point nearest
vehicle jack). Do not jack the vehicle under the
spare wheel and jack from their stowage to the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack
sump or or any of the steering or suspension
positions. On Saloon, Hatchback and Estate until the wheel is clear of the ground, then
remove the wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the components. Supplement the jack using axle
models, the jack and spare wheel are located
spare wheel and secure it with the wheel nuts. stands. The jacking points and axle stand
in the luggage compartment. On P100
Lower the jack until the wheel is just touching positions are shown in the accompanying
models, the jack is located behind the
the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts illustrations. Never work under, around or near
passenger seat, and the spare wheel is
moderately tight. Now lower the jack fully and a raised vehicle unless it is adequately
located under the rear of the cargo area.
tighten the wheel nuts securely in a diagonal supported in at least two places.
Firmly apply the handbrake and engage first
sequence. Where applicable, refit the wheel
gear on manual gearbox models or “P” on
Location of jacking points - Saloon, Location of jacking points - P100 models
Hatchback and Estate models A Jacking points for use with vehicle jack
A Jacking points for use with vehicle jack B Jacking points for use with trolley jack or axle stands
B Jacking points for use with trolley jack or
axle stands
Rear jacking point - Hatchback model Jack location by front wheel - Axle stand correctly positioned under
Hatchback model front jacking point -
Hatchback model
Roadside repairs 0•7
Towing
Push or tow starting is not possible on
Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear automatic transmission models, the towing
vehicles fitted with automatic transmission.
speed must not exceed 25 mph (40 kph), and
of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope.
the towing distance must not exceed 12 miles
Always turn the ignition key to position “II”
(20 km). For longer distances, or if
when thew vehicle is being towed, so that the
transmission damage is suspected, the
steering lock is released and the direction
propellor shaft should be removed, or the rear
indicator and brake lamps are operational.
of the vehicle should be lifted clear of the
Before being towed, release the handbrake
ground.
and place the gear lever in neutral. On
Front towing eye - Hatchback model
Rear towing eye - Hatchback model
Roadside repairs
0•8
Identifying leaks
Warning: Most automotive oils
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
The smell of a fluid leaking
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
from the car may provide a
them off skin, and change out of
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
clue to what’s leaking. Some
contaminated clothing, without
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
fluids are distinctively
delay.
decide where the leak is coming from,
coloured. It may help to clean the car
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
carefully and to park it over some clean
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
source of the leak.
giving a false impression of where the
Remember that some leaks may only
problem lies.
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Oil from filter Gearbox oil
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
Antifreeze Brake fluid Power steering fluid
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
certainly brake fluid. connectors on the steering rack.
deposit like this.
Roadside repairs 0•9
Jump starting
Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go 4 Make sure that the booster battery is
When jump-starting a car using a
flat in the first place. There are booster battery, observe the following the same voltage as the discharged
three possibilities: precautions: one in the vehicle.
The battery has been drained by
1 4 If the battery is being jump-started
4 Before connecting the booster
repeated attempts to start, or by
from the battery in another vehicle,
leaving the lights on. battery, make sure that the ignition is
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
switched off.
The charging system is not working
2 each other.
4 Ensure that all electrical equipment
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
4 Make sure that the transmission is in
or broken, alternator wiring fault or (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
alternator itself faulty). switched off.
automatic transmission).
The battery itself is at fault
3 (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
3
1 2
Connect one end of the red jump lead to Connect the other end of the red lead to Connect one end of the black jump lead
the positive (+) terminal of the flat the positive (+) terminal of the booster to the negative (-) terminal of the
battery battery. booster battery
4 Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.
Make sure that the jump leads will not
5 come into contact with the fan, drive-
belts or other moving parts of the
engine.
Start the engine using the booster
6 battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.
Weekly checks
0•10
Introduction
There are some very simple checks which If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but first time you might know about it is when your
pressures, will not only help to stop them
which could save you a lot of inconvenience brakes don't work properly. Checking the level
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
and expense. regularly will give advance warning of this kind
your life.
of problem.
These \"Weekly checks\" require no great skill Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
or special tools, and the small amount of time If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
problems. Battery-related faults are
they take to perform could prove to be very of repairing any engine damage will be far
particularly common, and a quick check on a
well spent, for example; greater than fixing the leak, for example.
regular basis will often prevent the majority of
these.
Underbonnet check points
2.0 litre OHC
Carburettor model
(air cleaner removed for clarity)
A Location of oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Brake fluid reservoir
E Windscreen washer reservoir
F Battery
2.0 litre OHC
Fuel injection model
A Oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Brake fluid reservoir
E Windscreen washer reservoir
F Battery
Weekly checks 0•11
1.8 litre CVH
Air cleaner removed for clarity
A Oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Brake fluid reservoir
E Windscreen washer reservoir
F Battery
2.0 litre DOHC
A Oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Power steering fluid reservoir
E Windscreen washer reservoir
F Battery
Weekly checks
0•12
Engine oil level
Before you start
4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
1 2
On some models, the dipstick is brightly Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
reading on the dipstick! coloured for easy identification. Refer to all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
the photos on pages 0•10 and 0•11 for the dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
exact location for each engine type withdraw it again.
The correct oil
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).
Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).
l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
3 4
Note the oil level on the end of the Oil is added through the filler cap.
If the level is too low severe engine damage dipstick, which should be between the Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the upper (“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark. funnel may help to reduce spillage . Add the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
from the lower mark to the upper mark. frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”).
Coolant level
Warning: DO NOT attempt to Car Care
l It is important that antifreeze is used in the
remove the expansion tank
l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding
pressure cap when the engine cooling system all year round, not just during
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
is hot, as there is a very great the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
risk of scalding. Do not leave alone, as the antifreeze will become too
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
diluted.
open containers of coolant
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
about, as it is poisonous.
wetness, and rectify as necessary.
1 2 3 Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
The coolant level varies with the If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
through the expansion tank filler neck
temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion
until the coolant reaches the “MAX” level
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system
the “MAX” mark. When the engine is hot, the mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far
pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn
level may rise slightly above this mark. the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off. as it will go until it is secure.
Weekly checks 0•13
Screen washer fluid level
Screenwash additives not only keep the weather - which is when you are likely to need freeze during cold weather. On no account use
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the engine antifreeze in the washer system - this
prevent the washer system freezing in cold screenwash will become too diluted, and will could discolour or damage paintwork.
1 2 3
Some models have a visible reservoir, On models with only the filler tube fitted, Top-up the washer reservoir using a
whilst others have only the filler nozzle a dipstick is fitted to show the quantity of propietary screen wash.
(arrowed) showing. Either way, the location is fluid left in the reservoir
in the same place.
Brake fluid level
Warning:Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air
which can cause a dangerous loss
of braking effectiveness.
• Make sure that your car is
on level ground.
1 2
The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
• The fluid level in the indicated on the side of the reservoir. The area around the filler cap with a clean rag
master cylinder reservoir will fluid level must be kept between the marks. before removing the cap.
drop slightly as the brake pads wear Disconnect the wiring plug (arrowed) before
down, but the fluid level must never be removing the cap.
allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.
Safety first
l If the reservoir requires repeated topping-
up this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.
3 4
When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on
l On ABS models, switch the ignition off and
inspect the reservoir. The system should surrounding paintwork. Use only the
pump the brake pedal at least 20 times or until
be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types
the pedal feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch
(see Chapter 9 for details). of fluid can cause damage to the system. After
on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will be
filling to the correct level, refit the cap
heard running. Wait until the pump stops, then
securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of
switch off the ignition.
foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.
Weekly checks
0•14
Power steering fluid level
Before you start: Safety First:
4 Park the vehicle on level ground. l The need for frequent topping-up indicates
For the check to be accurate a leak, which should be investigated
4 Set the steering wheel pointing straight- the steering must not be immediately.
ahead. turned once the engine has
4 The system should be at operating been stopped.
temperature and the engine should be
turned off.
1 2 3
The power steering fluid reservoir is The fluid level should be up to the Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of
located next to the coolant expansion “MAX” or upper “HOT” mark the specified type If the level is checked
tank. Clean around the filler cap and then cold, use the “MIN” or “FULL COLD” mark.
remove it should topping up be required. Recheck the level at operating temperature.
Electrical system If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall
4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer 4 Visually check all wiring connectors, or garage door and operate
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 13 for harnesses and retaining clips for security, and the lights. The reflected light should
details if any of the circuits are found to be for signs of chafing or damage. show if they are working properly.
inoperative.
1 2 3
If a single indicator light, brake light or If more than one indicator light or To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out.
headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb headlight has failed it is likely that either a Fit a new fuse of the same rating,
has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the available from car accessory shops.
to Chapter 12 for details. circuit (refer to “Electrical fault-finding” in It is important that you find the reason that the
If both brake lights have failed, it is possible Chapter 13). fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in
that the brake light switch above the brake The fuses are mounted in a box in the engine Chapter 13.
pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation compartment on the right-hand side of the
is described in Chapter 9. bulkhead. Remove the loose cover (and spring
clip if fitted), pulling the plastic clip, and
removing the plastic cover.
Weekly checks 0•15
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
“Safety first” at the start of this manual.
4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered with
a zinc-based primer, then painted.
1 2
The battery is located on the left-hand Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)
4 Periodically (approximately every three side of the engine compartment. The to ensure good electrical connections.
months), check the charge condition of the exterior of the battery should be inspected You should not be able to move them. Also
battery as described in Chapter 5A. periodically for damage such as a cracked check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed
4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump case or cover. conductors.
start your vehicle, see “Roadside Repairs”.
Battery corrosion can be kept to a
3 4
If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is ... as well as the battery cable clamps
minimum by applying a layer of
evident, remove the cables from the
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
battery terminals, clean them with a small wire
terminals after they are reconnected.
brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a
useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...
Wiper blades
1 2
Check the condition of the wiper blades; To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm
if they are cracked or show any signs of fully away from the glass until it locks.
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is Swivel the blade through 90°, press the
smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of locking tab(s) with your fingers, and slide the
vision, wiper blades should be renewed blade out of the arm's hooked end. On
annually, as a matter of course. refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely
into the arm.
Weekly checks
0•16
Tyre condition and pressure
New tyres should be balanced when they are
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
It is very important that tyres are in good
fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
immediately change the wheel, and have the
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will the steering and suspension components.
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
more even wear. However, if this is completely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
effective, you may have the expense of
however, the vibration is felt through the whole
“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may
replacing all four tyres at once!
car, the rear wheels could be out of balance.
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
Wheel balancing should be carried out by a
is very often the only way to overcome severe
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
tyre dealer or garage.
damage.
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
Tread Depth - visual check Tread Depth - manual check Tyre Pressure Check
1 2 3
The original tyres have tread wear safety Alternatively tread wear can be monitored Check the tyre pressures regularly with
bands (B), which will appear when the with a simple, inexpensive device known the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. as a tread depth indicator gauge. pressures immediately after the vehicle has
The band positions are indicated by a been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A). Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.
4 Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear Centre Wear Uneven Wear
Under-inflation (wear on both sides) Over-inflation Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with garages can check and adjust the wheel
the tread will not sit correctly on the road reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of alignment (or \"tracking\") for a modest charge.
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Incorrect camber or castor
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of Check and adjust pressures Repair or renew suspension parts
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Malfunctioning suspension
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
Check and adjust pressures Repair or renew suspension parts
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Unbalanced wheel
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
Repair or renew suspension parts Balance tyres
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
Hard cornering Incorrect toe setting
afterwards.
Reduce speed! Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
Weekly checks 0•17
Lubricants and fluids
Component or system Lubricant type/specification
1 Engine Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50, to API SG/CD or better
2 Manual gearbox
4-speed (A, B and C type) Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP, to Ford spec SQM-2C 9008-A
5-speed (N type) Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP, to Ford spec ESD-M2C 175-A
5-speed (MT75 type) Gear oil to Ford spec ESD-M2C 186-A
3 Automatic transmission ATF to Ford spec SQM-2C 9010-A
4 Final drive Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP to Ford spec SQM-2C 9002-AA or 9003-AA
5 Power steering ATF to Ford spec SQM-2C 9010-A
6 Brake hydraulic system Brake fluid to Ford spec Amber SAM-1C 9103-A Fluid
7 Cooling system:
SOHC engines Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec SSM-97 B-9103-A
CVH engines Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec ESD-M97B49-A
DOHC engine Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec SDM-M97B49-A
Note: From 1992, the cooling system on all models is filled with a long-life coolant mixture in production (“4-Year Longlife
Engine Coolant”/”Super Plus 40”). The manufacturers do not specify any renewal intervals for this later type of coolant as it is
intended to last the lifetime of the vehicle. Provided any topping-up is carried out with a similar coolant mixture of the correct
strength, coolant renewal is unnecessary. It is advisable to renew the coolant if the vehicle has covered a particularly high
mileage, or if the history of the car is uncertain, but this is up to the discretion of the individual owner.
CVH engines SOHC and DOHC engines
Weekly checks
0•18
Tyre pressures
Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle
handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations
Tyre pressures (cold) - lbf/in2 (bar): Front Rear
All Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models with normal load* 26 (1.8) 26 (1.8)
All Saloon and Hatchback models with full load . . . . . 29 (2.0) 36 (2.5)
Estate models with full load:
175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H and
195/65 R 14T tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 (2.0) 48 (2.8)
195/60 R 14H and 195/60 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . 29 (2.0) 36 (2.5)
P100 models with light load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 (1.8) 36 (2.5)
P100 models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 (3.5) 65 (4.5)
*Normal load is defined as up to three passengers (or equivalent). For sustained high speeds add 1.5 lbf/in2 (0.1 bar) for every 6 mph (10 km/h)
over 100 mph (160 km/h)
A light load is defined as one passenger plus up to 100 kg (220 lb) payload
Maintenance schedule
1•4
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months - whichever comes sooner
Check the engine oil level (Section 3)
Check the engine coolant level (Section 3)
(continued)
Check the brake fluid level (Section 3)
Clean radiator matrix and air conditioning condenser
Check the power steering fluid level (Section 3)
fins (where applicable) (Section 25)
Check the screen washer fluid level (Section 3)
Check air conditioning refrigerant charge (where
Visually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear
applicable) (Section 26)
or damage (Section 4)
Check final drive oil level (Section 27)
Check and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures
Lubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown
(Section 4)
linkage (Section 28)
Check and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte
Check security and condition of steering and
level - where applicable (Section 6)
suspension components, gaiters and boots
Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the
(Section 29)
wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7)
Check condition and security of driveshaft joints and
gaiters (Section 30)
Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or damage (Section 31)
6 months - whichever comes sooner Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32)
Clean idle speed control linkage at throttle (where
Renew engine oil and filter (Section 8)
applicable) (Section 33)
Check brake pads or shoes for wear (front and rear)
Road test and check operation of ABS (Section 34)
(Section 9)
Check crankcase ventilation system (Section 35)
Check operation of brake fluid level warning indicator
(Section 9)
Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid
leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
Check function and condition of seat belts
2 years - whichever comes sooner
(Section 11)
Check condition and security of exhaust system Check air cleaner inlet air temperature control
(Section 12) operation (carburettor models) (Section 36)
Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13) Renew pulse air filter element (1.6 litre CVH)
Clean oil filler cap (Section 14) (Section 37)
Check idle speed (where applicable) (Section 15) Renew air cleaner element (Section 38)
Check mixture adjustment (where applicable) Clean and inspect distributor cap and HT leads
(Section 16) (Section 39)
Check automatic transmission brake band
adjustment (Section 40)
Renew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only)
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or (Section 41)
12 months - whichever comes sooner Renew crankcase ventilation vent valve (SOHC and
DOHC) (Section 42)
Check automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)
(Section 17)
Check manual gearbox oil level (Section 18)
Check operation of latches, check straps and locks;
lubricate if necessary (Section 19)
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
Renew spark plugs (Section 20)
3 years - whichever comes sooner
Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s);
adjust or renew as necessary (Section 21) Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if
Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and necessary (Section 43)
neutralise corrosion if necessary (Section 22) Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44)
Check engine valve clearances - SOHC only Renew camshaft drivebelt (optional on SOHC
(Section 23) models - compulsory on CVH) (Section 45)
Check handbrake mechanism (Section 24) Renew coolant (Section 46)
Maintenance - component location 1•5
Underbonnet view of a 1983 2.0 litre SOHC
carburettor model (air cleaner removed)
1 Brake fluid reservoir
2 Windscreen wiper motor
3 Battery
4 Ignition coil
5 Carburettor
6 Distributor
7 Fuel pressure regulator
8 Thermostat housing
9 Radiator top hose
10 Upper fan shroud
11 Alternator
12 Windscreen washer reservoir
13 Oil filler cap
14 Cooler expansion tank
15 Suspension strut top
16 VIN plate
17 Fusebox
1
Underbonnet view of a 1985 2.0 litre SOHC
fuel injection model
1 Battery
2 Brake servo non-return valve
3 Ignition coil
4 Suspension strut top
5 Fuel filter
6 Air cleaner
7 Airflow meter
8 Fuel pressure regulator
9 Air inlet hose
10 Throttle body
11 Alternator
12 VIN plate
13 Windscreen washer reservoir
14 Coolant expansion tank
15 Oil filler cap
16 Idle speed control valve
17 Inlet manifold
18 Brake fluid reservoir
19 Fusebox
20 Windscreen wiper motor
21 Engine oil level dipstick
Maintenance - component location
1•6
Underbonnet view of a 1990 2.0 litre DOHC
fuel injection model
1 Battery
2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive valve
3 Ignition coil
4 Suspension strut top
5 Air cleaner
6 Plenum chamber
7 Idle speed control valve
8 Distributor
9 Oil filler cap
10 VIN plate
11 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck
12 Power steering fluid reservoir
13 Coolant expansion tank
14 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
15 Brake fluid reservoir
16 Inlet manifold
17 Fuel pressure regulator
18 Fusebox
19 Windscreen wiper motor
Underbonnet view of a 1989 1.8 litre (R2A)
CVH model (air cleaner removed)
1 Battery
2 Suspension strut top
3 Ignition coil
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Alternator
6 Distributor cap shroud
7 VIN plate
8 Electric cooling fan
9 Radiator top hose
10 Windscreen washer reservoir
11 Fuel vapour separator
12 Thermostat housing
13 Oil filler cap
14 Carburettor
15 Brake fluid reservoir
16 Engine oil level dipstick
17 Windscreen wiper motor
18 Fusebox
Maintenance - component location 1•7
Underbonnet view of a 1992 1.6 litre
CVH model (air cleaner removed)
1 Battery
2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive
valve
3 Suspension strut top
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Pulse-air filter
6 Vacuum-operated air valve
7 Alternator
8 Cooling fans
9 Oil filler cap
10 Thermostat housing
11 VIN plate
12 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck
13 Ignition module
14 Pulse-air control solenoid
15 CFI unit
16 Brake fluid reservoir
17 Engine oil level dipstick
18 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
Sensor
19 Fusebox
20 Windscreen wiper motor
1
Front underside view of a 1990
2.0 GLS model
1 Horns
2 Tie-rod end
3 Tie-rod
4 Gaiter
5 Coolant pump
6 Suspension lower arm
7 Anti-roll bar
8 Starter motor
9 Exhaust downpipes
10 Crossmember
11 Engine sump
12 Oil filter
13 Power steering fluid pump
14 Windscreen washer reservoir
15 Cooling fans
Maintenance - component location
1•8
Rear underside view of a Hatchback
models
1 Fuel tank
2 Suspension lower arm
3 Lower shock absorber mounting
4 Suspension crossmember
5 Suspension guide plate
6 Final drive unit
7 Exhaust system
8 Propeller shaft
9 Driveshaft
Rear underside view of a P100 model
1 Suspension leaf spring
2 Rear axle
3 Shock absorber
4 Propeller shaft
5 Exhaust system
6 Handbrake cable adjuster
7 Brake load apportioning valve
Maintenance procedures 1•9
suspension and steering components. improve the performance of the engine, and
The first step in this maintenance may prove a waste of time and money, unless
2 Introduction programme is to prepare yourself before the extensive overhaul work is carried out first.
actual work begins. Read through all the The following series of operations are those
Sections relevant to the work to be carried most often required to improve the
General information out, then make a list and gather together all performance of a generally poor-running
the parts and tools required. If a problem is engine:
This Chapter is designed to help the home
encountered, seek advice from a parts
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, Primary operations
specialist, or a dealer service department.
economy, long life and peak performance. a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
The Chapter contains a master Intensive maintenance b) Check all the engine-related fluids
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections c) Check the condition and tension of the
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
dealing specifically with each task in the auxiliary drivebelt
routine maintenance schedule is followed
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, d) Renew the spark plugs
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
component renewal and other helpful items e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
are included. Refer to the accompanying as applicable
throughout this manual, the engine will be
illustrations of the engine compartment and f) Check the condition of the air cleaner
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations the need for additional work will be minimised. filter element, and renew if necessary
of the various components. It is possible that there will be times when g) Renew the fuel filter
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the engine is running poorly due to the lack of h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and regular maintenance. This is even more likely check for fluid leaks
the following Sections will provide a planned if a used vehicle, which has not received i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings
maintenance programme, which should result regular and frequent maintenance checks, is - as applicable
in a long and reliable service life. This is a purchased. In such cases, additional work If the above operations do not prove fully
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some may need to be carried out, outside of the effective, carry out the following secondary
items but not others at the specified service regular maintenance intervals. operations:
intervals, will not produce the same results. If engine wear is suspected, a compression
Secondary operations
As you service your vehicle, you will discover test will provide valuable information
that many of the procedures can - and should - a) Check the charging system
regarding the overall performance of the main
1
be grouped together, because of the particular b) Check the ignition system
internal components. Such a test can be used
procedure being performed, or because of the c) Check the fuel system
as a basis to decide on the extent of the work
close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -
to be carried out. If, for example, a
components to one another. For example, if as applicable
compression test indicates serious internal
the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
can be inspected at the same time as the applicable
described in this Chapter will not greatly
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
3 Fluid level checks 5 Electrical system check 7 Wiper blade check
See “Weekly checks”. See “Weekly checks”. See “Weekly checks”.
4 Tyre checks 6 Battery electrolyte level check
See “Weekly checks”. See “Weekly checks”.
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months
sludge will be removed with it. Take care,
however, not to touch the exhaust or any
8 Engine oil and filter renewal other hot parts of the engine when working
under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of
scalding, and to protect yourself from
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most
possible skin irritants and other harmful
important preventative maintenance
contaminants in used engine oils, it is
procedures which can be undertaken by the
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes
this work. Access to the underside of the
diluted and contaminated, which leads to vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be
premature engine wear. raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked
2 Before starting this procedure, gather up and supported on axle stands (see
together all the necessary tools and materials. “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the
8.2 Sump drain plug location
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, drain plug is at the lowest point (see
illustration).
as it will drain better, and more built-up
Every 6000 miles or 6 months
1•10
4 For a comprehensive check, the brake disc
10 Remove the old oil and all tools from
pads should be removed and cleaned. The
under the car, then lower the car to the
operation of the caliper can then also be
ground (if applicable).
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct
Chapter 10 for further information.
grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and
5 On rear drum brake models, the brake shoe
fluids”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to
friction material can be inspected for wear
reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified
without removing the roadwheels. Working
quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for
beneath the vehicle, prise the plug from the
the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil
brake backplate, and using an inspection
a small quantity at a time until the level is up to
lamp or torch, check that the friction material
the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring
thickness is not less than the minimum given
the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
in the Specifications (see illustration). If any
Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap.
8.7 Unscrewing the oil filter
one of the shoes has worn below the
12 Start the engine and run it for a few
specified limit, the shoes must be renewed as
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
an axle set (4 shoes).
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
Position the draining container under the drain
6 At the same interval, check the function of the
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels,
pressure warning light goes out when the
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
release the handbrake and switch on the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
couple of turns. As the plug releases from the
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
filter, before the pressure builds up.
threads, move it away sharply so the stream
warning light: it should come on as the level
13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
of oil issuing from the sump runs into the
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap.
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
container, not up your sleeve! Recover the
7 On completion, refit the wheels and lower
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
sealing washer from the drain plug.
the car to the ground.
completely full, recheck the level on the
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
10 Fluid leak check
reference to “General repair procedures” in
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
the Reference section of this manual.
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if 1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
9 Front and rear brake pad/shoe
necessary. Clean the area around the drain gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
check
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
plug to the specified torque. around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
6 Move the container into position under the filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
oil filter. over a period of time some very slight
the front and rear of the car and support it
7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and seepage from these areas is to be expected
slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by vehicle support”). but what you are really looking for is any
hand the rest of the way (see illustration). 2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
Empty the oil from the old filter into the can be inspected without removing the front found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
container, and discard the filter. wheels by inserting a mirror between each by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in
8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and caliper and roadwheel (see illustration). If any this manual.
sludge from the filter sealing area on the one pad is worn down to the minimum 2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that specified thickness, all four pads (on both leaks, and investigate and rectify and
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the front wheels) must be renewed. problems found.
engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 3 It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in 3 Check the security and condition of all the
9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to order to inspect the rear disc pads. The pads engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it can be viewed through the top of the caliper all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter after removing the blanking spring clip (see in good condition. Clips which are broken or
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. illustration). If any one pad is worn down to missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug. the minimum specified, all four pads (on both pipes or wiring which could cause more
rear wheels) must be renewed. serious problems in the future.
9.2 Using a mirror to inspect the disc pad
9.3 Disc pads viewed through caliper 9.5 Brake shoe inspection hole plug
friction material for wear
inspection hole (roadwheel removed) (arrowed)
A Brake disc B Brake disc pads
Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•11
4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel, power steering and brake hoses. Renew
13 Roadwheel security check
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the With the wheels on the ground, slacken each
hose clips that secure the hoses to the system wheel nut by a quarter turn, then retighten it
components. Hose clips can pinch and immediately to the specified torque.
puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type
hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to
14 Oil filler cap check
replace them with screw-type clips.
5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and
Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
other damage. The connection between the
sludge build-up using paraffin. 15.4 Ford VV carburettor adjustment screw
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or locations
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw
up of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
deteriorated rubber.
cause oil leaks.
6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
4 If necessary, adjust the idle speed screw to
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
give the specified idle speed (see
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
15 Engine idle speed check illustration).
necessary repair work has been carried out.
5 Checking and adjustment should be
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal Caution: Refer to the readings stabilising. If this has not been
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. precautions in Section 1, possible, repeat paragraphs 3 and 4, ignoring
Check for loose connections, deteriorated Chapter 4, Part A or B (as the reference to starting the engine.
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay applicable), before proceeding.
Weber 2V carburettor
particular attention to the vent pipes and Before carrying out any carburettor
hoses which often loop up around the filler 1
adjustments, ensure that the ignition Models without stepper motor
neck and can become blocked or crimped. timing and spark plug gaps are set as
6 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle specified. To carry out the adjustments an
carburettor but note the following:
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
7 It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner
damaged sections as necessary. analyser (CO meter) will be required.
securing screws to allow easier access to the
8 From within the engine compartment,
carburettor adjustment screws but ensure
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
Ford VV carburettor that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
connected. For adjustment screw location
1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted,
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
(see illustrations).
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
deterioration.
Models with stepper motor (ESC II
securely connected and free from restrictions,
9 Where applicable, check the condition of
system)
then run the engine until it is at normal
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
operating temperature.
10 Check the condition of all exposed wiring 8 The idle speed is controlled by the ESC II
2 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer
harnesses. module via the stepper motor. The only idle
and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance speed adjustment possible is provided by the
with the manufacturer’s instructions. “idle speed adjustment” wire, which can be
3 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
11 Seat belt check earthed to raise the idle speed by 75 rpm. No
30 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads other method of idle speed adjustment should
are switched off (headlamps, heater blower be attempted. If the idle speed is incorrect,
1 Periodically check the belts for fraying or etc), then allow the engine to idle and check the problem should be referred to a Ford
other damage. If evident, renew the belt. the idle speed and CO content. Note that the dealer, as the problem probably lies in the
2 If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a CO reading will initially rise, then fall and finally ESC II module for which special diagnostic
stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds.
damp cloth using a little detergent only. equipment is required.
3 Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of
washers, bushes and anchor plates is
retained.
12 Exhaust system check
With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands, check the exhaust
system for signs of leaks, corrosion or
damage and check the rubber mountings for
15.7a Weber 2V carburettor adjustment 15.7b Weber 2V carburettor adjustment
condition and security. Where damage or
screw locations - 2.0 litre models up to 1985 screw locations - 1.6 litre models
corrosion are evident, renew the system
complete or in sections, as applicable, using A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw A Idle mixture screw B Idle speed screw
the information given in Chapter 4.
Every 6000 miles or 6 months
1•12
Pierburg 2V carburettor
9 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor. For adjustment screw location
(see illustration).
Weber 2V TLD carburettor
10 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor, noting the following points:
11 Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the
camshaft cover breather hose are securely
connected to the air cleaner and are free from
restrictions.
12 When warming-up the engine, run the
15.9 Pierburg 2V carburettor adjustment 15.13 Weber 2V TLD carburettor
engine until the cooling fan cuts in.
screw locations adjustment screw locations
13 For adjustment screw location (see
illustration). A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw A Idle mixture screw B Idle speed screw
Fuel injection
6 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, Models with stepper motor (ESC II
2.0 litre SOHC models
then allow the engine to idle, and using a system)
14 Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV small screwdriver or a 4.0 mm Allen key, as 13 If necessary, the mixture can be adjusted
module and the only means of adjustment applicable, adjust the mixture screw to give as described for the Ford VV carburettor with
provided is by the yellow “idle speed the specified CO content. reference to paragraphs 11 and 12 of this
adjustment” wire (Chapter 5, Section 17) which 7 Checking and adjustment should be
Section. Do not attempt to adjust the idle
allows the idle speed to be raised by 75 rpm. completed within 30 seconds of the meter
speed on completion of mixture adjustment.
2.0 litre DOHC models readings stabilising. If this has not been
For adjustment screw location (see
possible, then repeat paragraph 6.
15 Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV illustration).
8 If necessary adjust the idle speed, then
module, and manual adjustment is not
Pierburg 2V carburettor
recheck the CO content.
possible.
9 On completion of the adjustments, stop the
16 The “base” idle speed can be adjusted, 14 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
engine and disconnect the tachometer and
but only by a Ford dealer, using special carburettor.
exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof
equipment.
Weber 2V TLD carburettor
seal to the mixture screw.
15 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
Weber 2V carburettor
16 Mixture adjustment check carburettor, noting the following points:
Models without stepper motor 16 Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the
camshaft cover breather hose are securely
10 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
Caution: Refer to the
connected to the air cleaner and are free from
carburettor but note the following:
precautions in Section 1,
restrictions.
11 To remove the mixture screw tamperproof
Chapter 4, Part A or B (as
17 When warming-up the engine, run the
seal, it will be necessary to drill the seal in
applicable), before proceeding.
engine until the cooling fan cuts in.
order to prise it from the mixture screw
Before carrying out any carburettor
18 If adjustment of the mixture (CO content)
housing. Alternatively a self-tapping screw
adjustments, ensure that the ignition
is required, the air cleaner must be removed
can be used to draw out the seal. If the
timing and spark plug gaps are set as
for access to the adjustment screw, as
tamperproof seal is to be renewed, ensure
specified. To carry out the adjustments an
follows.
that a blue-coloured replacement seal is
accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
19 Remove the air cleaner, and prise the
fitted.
analyser (CO meter) will be required.
tamperproof seal from the mixture screw.
12 It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner
20 Loosely refit the air cleaner, ensuring that
securing screws to allow easier access to the
Ford VV carburettor the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover
carburettor adjustment screws, but ensure
breather hose are securely connected and
that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely
1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted
free from restrictions (there is no need to
connected.
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
secure the air cleaner in position).
securely connected and free from restrictions,
then run the engine until it is at normal 21 On completion, fit a new tamperproof seal
operating temperature. to the mixture screw (the service replacement
2 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer plug is coloured blue), and refit the air cleaner
and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance assembly.
with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fuel injection
3 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30
seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads are 2.0 litre SOHC models
switched off (headlamps, heater blower etc),
22 The idle mixture can be checked and if
then allow the engine to idle and check the idle
necessary adjusted as follows:
speed and CO content. Note that the CO
23 Run the engine until it is at normal
reading will initially rise, then fall and finally
operating temperature.
stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds.
24 Stop the engine and connect a
4 If the reading noted in paragraph 3 is not as
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in
specified, proceed as follows. 16.13 Weber 2V carburettor idle mixture
accordance with the manufacturer’s
5 Using a thin screwdriver, remove the adjustment screw location (arrowed) -
instructions.
tamperproof seal from the mixture screw. 2.0 litre models from 1985
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13
16.26 Adjusting the idle mixture - 16.34a Remove the cover from the mixture 16.34b . . . to enable mixture adjustment -
SOHC models adjustment potentiometer . . . DOHC models
side of the engine compartment, behind the
25 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 2.0 litre DOHC models
15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads MAP sensor), and turn the screw to give the
29 On models with a catalytic converter, the
(headlamps, heater blower etc) are switched specified CO content (see illustrations).
mixture is controlled by the EEC IV module.
off, then allow the engine to idle and check 35 If adjustment does not produce a change
No manual adjustment is possible.
the CO content. Note that the CO reading will in reading, the potentiometer may be at the
30 On models without a catalytic converter,
initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise. extreme of its adjustment range. To centralise
the idle mixture can be adjusted as follows:
26 If adjustment is necessary, remove the the potentiometer, turn the adjustment screw
31 Run the engine until it is at normal
tamperproof cap from the base of the airflow 20 turns clockwise followed by 10 turns anti-
operating temperature.
meter, and turn the mixture screw using a clockwise, then repeat the adjustment proce-
32 Stop the engine, and connect a
suitable Allen key to give the specified CO dure.
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in
content (see illustration). 36 Checking and adjustment should be
accordance with the equipment
27 Checking and adjustment should be completed within 30 seconds of the meter
manufacturer’s instructions.
completed within 30 seconds of the meter 1
readings stabilising. If this has not been
33 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15
15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm, for 15
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
(headlamps, heater blower, etc) are switched
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
check the CO content, and carry out further
off. Allow the engine to idle, and check the CO
check the CO content and carry out further
adjustments if necessary.
content. Note that the reading will initially rise,
adjustment if necessary.
37 On completion of adjustment, stop the
then fall and finally stabilise.
28 On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine, and disconnect the tachometer and
34 If adjustment is necessary, remove the
engine and disconnect the tachometer and
the exhaust gas analyser. Refit the cover to
cover from the mixture adjustment
exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof
the adjustment screw.
potentiometer (located at the rear right-hand
cap to the mixture screw.
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months
6 Note that if the fluid level was below the
17 Automatic transmission fluid 18 Manual gearbox oil level
minimum mark when checked or is in
constant need of topping-up, check around
level check check
the transmission for any signs of excessive
fluid leaks.If present, leaks must be rectified 1 Place the vehicle over a pit, or raise and
1 Fluid level should be checked with the
without delay. support it at front and rear. The vehicle must
transmission at operating temperature (after a
7 If the colour of the fluid is dark brown or be level for an accurate check.
run) and with the vehicle parked on level
black this denotes the sign of a worn brake 2 If the gearbox is hot after a run, allow it to
ground.
band or transmission clutches, in which case cool for a few minutes. This is necessary
2 Open and prop the bonnet. With the engine
have your Ford dealer check the transmission because the oil can foam when hot and give a
idling and the handbrake and footbrake applied, at the earliest opportunity. false level reading.
move the gear selector through all positions
three times, finishing up in position “P”,
3 Wait one minute. With the engine still idling,
withdraw the transmission dipstick (see
illustration). Wipe the dipstick with a clean
lint-free rag, re-insert it fully and withdraw it
again. Read the fluid level at the end of the
dipstick: it should be between the two
notches.
4 If topping-up is necessary, do so via the
dipstick tube, using clean transmission fluid of
the specified type (see illustration). Do not
overfill.
17.3 Automatic transmission dipstick 17.4 Topping-up the transmission fluid
5 Stop the engine, refit the dipstick and close
location and markings
the bonnet.
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
1•14
Gearbox type Oil level
All four-speed gearboxes 0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in) below lower edge of
filler/level hole
All five-speed gearboxes up to April 1984 (build Level with bottom edge of filler/level hole
code E6) except those subsequently fitted with
a modified extension housing
All five-speed gearboxes from May 1984 (build 20.0 to 25.0 mm (0.79 to 0.99 in) below lower
code EC) to end of April 1985 (build code FP) edge of filler/level hole
and all vehicles built up to April 1984 (build
code E6) subsequently fitted with a modified
gearbox extension housing
18.3 Gearbox filler/level plug location
(arrowed) - N type gearbox All five-speed gearboxes from May 1985 0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in)below lower edge of
filler/level hole
3 Wipe clean around the filler/level plug.
Note: The vehicle build code appears as the twelfth and thirteenth characters of the VIN number
Unscrew the plug and remove it (see
on the plate in the engine compartment.
illustration).
4 Using a suitably marked piece of bent wire
8 On DOHC models before refitting the spark
as a dipstick, check that the oil level is as
plugs, coat their threads with suitable anti-
shown in the table at the top of this page, Number each HT lead using
seize compound, taking care not to
according to gearbox type. sticky tape or paint before
contaminate the electrodes.
5 Top-up the level if necessary, using clean removal so as to avoid
9 Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill, as this confusion when refitting.
tighten them to the specified torque. Do not
can lead to leakage and difficult gear
exceed the torque figure.
changing. Allow excess oil to drip out of the 3 Where necessary, for improved access
10 Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
filler/level hole if necessary. Refit and tighten remove the air cleaner and/or the inlet hose.
plugs, and where applicable refit the air
the filler/level plug on completion. 4 Disconnect the leads from the plugs by
cleaner and/or inlet hose.
6 The frequent need for topping-up can only pulling on the connectors, not the leads.
be due to leaks, which should be rectified. 5 On 2.0 litre DOHC carburettor models, the
The most likely sources of leaks are the rear location of the spark plugs and the close
21 Auxiliary drivebelt check
extension housing and input shaft oil seals. proximity of the carburettor makes spark plug
7 No periodic oil changing is specified, and access difficult, particularly when removing
no drain plug is fitted. the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3. It is
1 Refer to the Specifications at the beginning
suggested that a 3/8 inch ratchet drive spark
of this Chapter and check the tension of each
plug socket with rubber insert and long
19 Hinge and lock check and drivebelt at the point stated. Check the full
extension bar is used, possibly in conjunction
lubrication length of each drivebelt for cracks and
with a universal joint adapter. It is also
deterioration. It will be necessary to turn the
advisable to disconnect No 3 cylinder HT lead
engine in order to check that portion of the
1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the from the distributor first, to allow some slack
drivebelt in contact with the pulleys. Renew or
bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light for disconnection at the spark plug.
tension each belt as necessary as follows,
machine oil. 6 Clean the area around each spark plug
according to model type:
2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release using a small brush, then using a plug
mechanism and exposed sections of inner spanner (preferably with a rubber insert), SOHC models
cable with a smear of grease. unscrew and remove the plugs (see
2 Note that two drivebelts are fitted to models
3 Check the security and operation of all illustration). Cover the spark plug holes with
equipped with power steering and both
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any
should be renewed if either one is
where required. Where applicable, check the foreign matter.
unserviceable. Where fitted, the air
operation of the central locking system. 7 Before fitting new spark plugs, check that
conditioning compressor is driven by a
4 Check the condition and operation of the the threaded connector sleeves are tight. As
separate belt.
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is the plugs incorporate taper seats, make sure
3 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
leaking or is no longer able to support the that the threads and seats are clean.
4 Where applicable, remove the air
tailgate securely when raised.
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
5 Loosen the alternator mounting and
20 Spark plug renewal adjustment nuts and bolts, and pivot the
alternator towards the cylinder block.
6 Slip the drivebelt(s) from the alternator,
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is water pump, crankshaft and (where
vital for the correct running and efficiency of applicable) the power steering pump pulleys.
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted 7 Fit the new drivebelt(s) over the pulleys,
are appropriate for the engine. then lever the alternator away from the
2 Make sure that the ignition is switched off cylinder block until the specified belt tension
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they is achieved. Lever the alternator using a
carry their cylinder numbers. Note that the wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to
position of No 1 cylinder HT lead in the prevent damage and straining the brackets. It
distributor cap is marked with either a pip, or 20.6 Removing a spark plug - CVH engine is helpful to partially tighten the adjustment
a number “1 “. link bolt before tensioning the drivebelt(s).
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15
maintenance apart from having the case kept
steering, the drivebelt is tensioned by moving
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
the alternator. On models with power steering,
2 To clean the battery terminals disconnect
the power steering pump is also driven by the
them, after having first removed the cover
coolant pump/alternator drivebelt and an
(later models) - negative earth first. Use a wire
automatic belt tensioner is fitted (see
brush or abrasive paper to clean the
illustration). On models with air conditioning,
terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated
the drivebelt drives the alternator, coolant
with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied
pump, power steering pump and air
with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution
conditioning compressor, and an automatic
get inside the battery.
belt tensioner is fitted.
3 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
13 On models without power steering, loosen
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts,
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and
and pivot the alternator towards the cylinder
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by
block. Slip the drivebelt from the pulleys.
21.8 Alternator mounting tightening
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.
14 On models with power steering, the
sequence - SOHC engines
4 Keep the top of the battery clean and dry.
automatic tensioner can be released using a
8 Tighten the alternator mounting and
Inspect the battery tray for corrosion, and
17 mm socket and a wrench on the boss in
adjustment nuts and bolts in the order shown
make good as necessary.
the centre of the pulley. Lever the tensioner
(see illustration).
assembly clockwise, slide the belt from the
9 Where applicable, refit and tension the air
pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.
23 Engine valve clearance
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
15 To fit a new belt on models without
check
10 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
power steering, slide the belt over the pulleys,
11 Drivebelt tension should be rechecked
then lever the alternator away from the
and if necessary adjusted after the engine has
cylinder block until the correct belt tension is
It will be easier to turn the
been run for a minimum of ten minutes.
achieved. Lever the alternator using a plastic
engine by hand if the spark
or wooden lever at the pulley end to prevent
DOHC models plugs are removed but take
damage. It is helpful to partially tighten the
12 Three different types of drivebelt care not to allow dirt to enter
adjustment link bolt before tensioning the
arrangement are used, depending on model 1
the spark plug holes.
drivebelt. When the correct tension is
(see illustrations). On models without power
achieved, tighten all the bolts.
16 To fit a new belt on models with power SOHC engines
steering, lever the tensioner clockwise as
1 The valve clearances must be checked with
during removal, then slide the belt over the
the engine cold. On carburettor models
pulleys, and slowly release the tensioner.
remove the air cleaner.
2 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and release them from the clips on the
22 Battery terminal check
camshaft cover.
3 On fuel injection models, unbolt and
remove the bracing strut securing the inlet
Caution: Before carrying out
manifold to the right-hand side of the cylinder
any work on the vehicle battery,
head.
read through the precautions
21.12a Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
4 Where applicable, unclip any hoses and
given in “Safety first!” at the
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine
beginning of this manual. wires from the camshaft cover, then unscrew
without power steering
the securing bolts and remove the camshaft
1 Alternator 3 Crankshaft cover and gaskets. Take care not to lose the
1 The battery fitted as original equipment is
2 Coolant pump pulley spacer plates which fit under the bolt heads,
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
where applicable.
21.12b Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt 21.12c Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with
power steering power steering and air conditioning
21.12d Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt
4 Crankshaft pulley
1 Alternator 4 Air conditioning
1 Alternator tensioner indicator position -
compressor
2 Automatic belt 5 Power steering 2 Automatic belt 2.0 litre DOHC engine
5 Crankshaft pulley
tension pump tensioner
6 Power steering Inset shows tensioner at maximum
3 Coolant pump 3 Coolant pump
pump adjustment
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
1•16
23.6 Cam lobe correctly positioned for 23.7a Using a feeler gauge to check a 23.7b Adjusting a valve clearance
checking valve clearance. Insert feeler valve clearance
gauge as shown by arrow
nut, then tighten the locknut (see
5 Numbering from the front (camshaft
25 Radiator matrix and air
sprocket) end of the engine, the exhaust illustrations). Allowance must be made for
valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7, and the inlet valves tightening the locknut, as this tends to conditioner condenser clean
are 2, 4, 6 and 8. decrease the valve clearance. Recheck the
6 Turn the engine clockwise using a suitable adjustment after tightening the locknut. Gain access to the radiator matrix by
socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the 8 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs removing the surrounding body panels, fan
exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder (valve No 1) is 6 and 7 for the remaining valves. With the shrouds, etc. Clean dirt and debris from the
fully closed; ie the cam lobe is pointing carburettor/inlet manifold fitted, some diffi- matrix using an air jet or water and a soft
vertically upwards (see illustration). culty may be experienced when adjusting the brush. Be careful not to damage the fins or
7 Insert a feeler blade of the correct thickness exhaust valve clearances, and a suitable cut your fingers.
(see Specifications) between the cam follower open-ended spanner bent to 90º will be found Remove the protecting grille and clean any
and the heel of the No 1 valve cam lobe. The helpful. leaves, insects etc. from the air conditioner
feeler blade should be a firm sliding fit. If not, 9 Check the condition of the camshaft cover condenser coil and fins. Be very careful not to
loosen the locknut and adjust the ball-pin damage the condenser fins: use a soft brush, or
gasket, and renew if necessary. Fit the gasket
position accordingly by turning the adjuster a compressed air jet, along (not across) the fins.
to the camshaft cover ensuring that the
locating tabs and dovetails are correctly
located (see illustration), then refit the 26 Air conditioner refridgerant
camshaft cover and tighten the securing bolts
charge check
in the order shown (see illustration), ensuring
that the spacer plates are in position under
1 If applicable, remove the radiator grille
the bolt heads, where applicable.
being careful not to damage the condenser
10 On fuel injection models, refit the inlet
fins.
manifold bracing strut.
2 Check the refrigerant charge as follows.
11 Where applicable refit the spark plugs. The engine should be cold and the ambient
Reconnect the HT leads and locate them in temperature should be between 64° and 77°F
the clips on the camshaft cover. (18° and 25°C).
12 Where applicable, refit any wires and 3 Start the engine and allow it to idle.
hoses to the clips on the camshaft cover and Observe the refrigerant sight glass (see
23.9a Camshaft cover gasket dovetails on carburettor models, refit the air cleaner. illustration) and have an assistant switch on
the air conditioning to fan speed III. A few
DOHC and CVH engines
bubbles should be seen in the sight glass as
13 These engines are fitted with hydraulic the system starts up, but all bubbles should
cam followers therefore no adjustment is disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent
necessary. bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the
refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the
24 Handbrake check
Chock the front roadwheels and jack the
rear wheels clear of the ground, supporting
the vehicle with axlestands.
Check that with the handbrake released,
the rear wheels are free to rotate and no brake
23.9b Camshaft cover bolts (A) and spacer “bind” is evident. The handbrake lever travel
plates (B) should be between two and four clicks of the
Tighten bolts in following stages: ratchet. If brake “bind” or excessive lever
Stage 1 Bolts 1 to 6 travel is evident, check the handbrake cable
Stage 2 Bolts 7 and 8 routing and check the self-adjuster
26.3 Air conditioning system refrigerant
Stage 3 Bolts 9 and 10 mechanism for wear or damage. Refer to
sight glass (arrowed)
Stage 4 Bolts 7 and 8 (again) Chapter 10 for full service information.
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•17
system immediately if the charge is low and
do not use it again until it has been recharged.
4 Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5 The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year -
so it is as well to regard periodic recharging
as a maintenance operation.
27 Final drive oil level check
27.3a Final drive unit filler plug location 27.3b Rear axle filler plug location -
(arrowed) - P100 models
1 Check the final drive oil level as follows. Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models
2 Steam-cleaning is available at many
2 Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
4 Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by garages and is necessary for the removal of
front and rear on ramps or axle stands. The
spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any the accumulation of oily grime which
vehicle must be level.
roughness or excessive noise indicates worn sometimes is allowed to become thick in
3 Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
bearings, which must be renewed, as no certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
plug (see illustrations) and unscrew the
adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any not available, there are some excellent grease
plug. Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick,
wear will be evident unless the vehicle has solvents available which can be brush-
check that the oil is no more than 10 mm (0.4
covered a very high mileage. It should be applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
in) below the plug hole.
3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
noted that it is normal for the bearings to
4 If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
wheel rock at the wheel rim.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
4 Using a strong light, work around the
to leaks, which should be rectified. underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
1
5 When the level is correct, refit the filler/level corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer
30 Driveshaft check
plug and tighten it to the specified torque to Chapter 12 for details of repair.
loading.
6 There is no requirement for periodic oil 1 Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
changing, and no drain plug is provided. front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see 32 Brake pipe and hose check
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
28 Automatic transmission
Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
selector linkage lubrication rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
be renewed without delay to avoid damage
Lubricate the transmission selector and assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
occurring to the joint itself
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks.
3 Check the tightness of the final drive
lubricant. Renew any defective item without delay.
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange screws.
29 Steering and suspension
33 Idle speed linkage clean
31 Underbody inspection
security check
1 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing On carburettor models which incorporate a
1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based
the vehicle up and down at each corner in stepper motor (ie. Weber 2V from 1985), good
underbody protective coating, have the whole
turn. When released, it should come to rest electrical contact between the motor plunger
of the underframe of the vehicle steam-
within one complete oscillation. Continued and the adjusting screw is essential to
cleaned, engine compartment included, so
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises maintain a regular idle speed.
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
from the shock absorber suggests that Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
renewal is required . contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
necessary.
2 Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
steering and suspension components for available from electronic component shops.
wear and damage. Pay particular attention to
dust covers and gaiters, which if renewed
promptly when damaged can save further 34 Road test
damage to the component protected.
3 At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
Instruments and electrical
levering up the arms (see illustration).
equipment
Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5
1 Check the operation of all instruments and
mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints can
electrical equipment.
be checked in a similar manner, or by
2 Make sure that all instruments read
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
correctly, and switch on all electrical
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
equipment in turn to check that it functions
29.3 Levering up lower arm to check
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
properly.
balljoint for wear
be renewed .
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
1•18
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
14 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed.
After about four or five applications, no further
35.1 Loosening the crankcase ventilation 35.3 Oil separator (1) and mushroom valve
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
hose clip - CVH models (2) locations in air cleaner - CVH models
feel considerably firmer.
Steering and suspension 9 Where applicable, check that the clutch
action is smooth and progressive, that the
3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, 35 Crankcase ventilation system
drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
suspension, handling or road “feel”. check
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
no unusual vibrations or noises. 1 Inspect the crankcase ventilation system
10 Check that all gears can be engaged
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with smoothly, without noise, and that the gear lever for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. cause a build-up of crankcase pressure,
check for any suspension noises when which in turn can cause oil leaks (see
Check the operation and
cornering, or when driving over bumps. illustration).
performance of the braking 2 On carburettor model SOHC engines, clean
Drivetrain system the oil filler cap with paraffin and check that
6 Check the performance of the engine, 11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to the vent valve is not blocked by pulling it from
clutch, transmission and driveshafts. one side when braking, and that the wheels the oil separator and loosening the hose clip
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the do not lock prematurely when braking hard. (Section 42).
engine, clutch and transmission. 12 Check that there is no vibration through 3 On CVH engines, check that the oil
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly the steering when braking. separator and mushroom valve are not
when idling, and that there is no hesitation 13 Check that the handbrake operates blocked, and clean if necessary (see
when accelerating. correctly, without excessive movement of the illustration).
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years
4 Working under the base of the air cleaner
2 To check the operation of the air
36 Air cleaner inlet air body, disconnect the diaphragm unit-to-heat
temperature control, the engine must be cold.
sensor vacuum pipe at the sensor end, and
First observe the position of the flap valve
temperature control check
connect a vacuum pump to the diaphragm unit.
which should be fully closed prior to starting
Apply a vacuum of 100.0 mm (4.0 in) of mercury.
the engine (see illustration). The position of
SOHC and DOHC carburettor 5 If the flap opens, then the heat sensor is
the flap can be observed by disconnecting the
models faulty and should be renewed. If the flap
cold air inlet hose from the air cleaner spout
remains closed, then the diaphragm unit is
and looking into the spout.
1 A vacuum pump will be required to test the
faulty, and a new air cleaner body will have to
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
control components.
be obtained, as the diaphragm unit is not
that the flap is now fully open to admit hot air
available separately.
from the exhaust manifold shroud. If the flap
6 On completion of the checks, disconnect
does not fully open, stop the engine and
the vacuum pump, and reconnect the vacuum
check the vacuum diaphragm unit and heat
pipe and cold air inlet hose.
sensor as follows (see illustrations).
36.2 Air cleaner flap valve operation -
OHC models
A Flap fully open to admit hot air 36.3a Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm unit - 36.3b Air cleaner heat sensor viewed from
B Flap fully closed to admit cold air OHC models inside air cleaner - OHC models
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years 1•19
37 Pulse air filter element
renewal (1.6 litre CVH)
1 The pulse-air filter is located at the front
left-hand side of the engine compartment.
2 To renew the element, simply unclip the
filter cover, then lift out the metal gauze, and
withdraw the filter element (see illustration).
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the holes in the gauze and the filter
element are positioned on the engine side of
the filter housing.
36.7 Air cleaner flap valve operation - CVH models
3 Flap valve
A Flap fully open to admit hot air
38 Air cleaner element renewal
4 Link arm
B Flap fully closed to admit cold air
5 Waxstat
1 Air inlet spout
6 Air cleaner body
2 Hot air inlet hose
Carburettor models
CVH carburettor models 1 Remove the screws from the top of the air
cleaner cover (see illustration).
7 To test the unit the engine must initially be
2 Where applicable release the spring clips
cold. Disconnect the hot air inlet hose from
around the edge of the cover, then lift or prise
the air cleaner spout and observe the position
off the cover (see illustration).
of the flap which should be fully open to allow
3 Lift out the air cleaner element. Wipe the
only hot air to enter (see illustration).
inside of the air cleaner body clean, taking
8 Refit the hose and warm up the engine to
care not to allow dirt to enter the carburettor
normal operating temperature.
throat. Also clean the inside of the cover.
1
9 Disconnect the hot air inlet hose again, and
4 Place a new element in position, then refit
observe the position of the flap which should
the air cleaner cover.
be fully closed to admit only cold air.
Fuel-injection models
10 If the flap positions are not as described,
the waxstat is defective and the complete air
All models except 2.0 litre DOHC
cleaner must be renewed as the waxstat is
5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
37.2 Withdrawing the pulse-air filter not available separately.
6 Depress the locking clip on the airflow
element and gauze - 1.6 litre CVH models 11 On completion of the checks, stop the
meter wiring plug and disconnect the plug.
engine and reconnect the hot air inlet hose.
Pull on the plug, not the wiring (see
illustration).
7 Loosen the securing clip and disconnect
the air inlet hose from the airflow meter.
8 Release the four securing clips and lift off
the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter.
9 Lift out the old air cleaner element (see
illustration), then wipe the inside of the air
cleaner casing and lid clean.
10 Fit the new element with the sealing lip
uppermost.
11 Refit the air cleaner lid and secure with
the four clips.
12 Reconnect the air inlet hose to the airflow
meter, ensuring that the securing clip is
38.1 Remove the air cleaner cover 38.2 . . . release the spring clips, and lift off correctly aligned (see illustration). Reconnect
screws . . . the cover for access to the element the wiring plug.
38.6 Disconnecting the airflow meter 38.9 Unclip the lid and remove the air 38.12 Air intake hose clip correctly aligned
wiring plug cleaner element
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
1•20
2 The brake band adjuster screw(s) is/are
situated on the left-hand side of the
transmission housing, forward of the
kickdown lever. Note that the C3 type
transmission has a single adjuster screw for
adjustment of the front brake band, whereas
the A4LD type transmission has two adjuster
screws for adjustment of the front and
intermediate brake bands (see illustration).
3 Disconnect the kickdown cable from the
kickdown lever on the transmission housing.
4 Loosen the locknut on the front brake band
adjuster screw, and back off the adjuster
screw several turns.
38.17 Air intake tube securing nut 38.19 Lifting out the air cleaner element
5 Using the Ford special tool or a suitable
(arrowed)
equivalent, tighten the adjuster screw to the
13 Reconnect the battery negative lead. deposits from the connectors and terminals.
specified torque, then back off the screw two
Also clean the coil tower.
2.0 litre DOHC models complete turns, and tighten the locknut.
5 Renew the HT leads if they are cracked,
Ensure that the adjuster screw does not turn
14 Disconnect the battery negative lead. burnt or otherwise damaged. If a multi-meter
as the locknut is tightened.
15 Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle is available, measure the resistance of the
6 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
speed control valve at the front of the plenum leads. The desired value is given in the
4 and 5 for the remaining adjuster screw on
chamber. Specifications of Chapter 5.
A4LD type transmissions, but on all models
16 Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet 6 Renew the distributor cap if it is cracked or
where the part number on the transmission
hose from the air inlet tubing. badly burnt inside, or if there is evidence of
identification tag starts with “88” (see
17 Unscrew the securing nut, and release the “tracking” (black lines marking the path of HT
illustration) and additionally on all 1.8 CVH
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine leakage). If there is a carbon brush at the
engine models, the adjuster screw should be
compartment front panel (see illustration). centre of the cap, make sure that it moves
backed off two and a half turns after
18 Release the air cleaner lid securing clips, freely, and is not excessively worn (see
tightening to the specified torque. On all other
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum illustration).
models, the adjuster screw should be backed
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly, 7 Clean the metal track of the rotor arm with
off two turns.
disconnecting the breather hose from the air fine abrasive paper. Renew the arm if it is
7 Reconnect the kickdown cable, and lower
inlet tube. cracked or badly burnt.
the vehicle to the ground on completion.
19 Lift out the air cleaner element (see 8 Refit the rotor arm and distributor cap.
illustration), then wipe the inside of the air 9 Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs
cleaner lid and casing clean. and coil.
41 Fuel filter renewal
20 Fit the new element with the sealing lip 10 Reconnect the battery and run the engine.
uppermost.
21 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
Caution: Refer to the
40 Automatic transmission
precautions in Chapter 4, Part
brake band adjustment
39 Ignition system component B, Section 1 before proceeding.
check
2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection
Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool
models
No 17-005, or a conventional torque wrench
1 Before disturbing any part of the ignition and a splined socket of suitable size to fit the 1 The fuel filter is located on the left-hand
system, disconnect the battery negative lead. square section head of the adjuster screw(s) side of the engine compartment (see
2 Identify and clearly mark all HT leads before will be required for this operation. illustration).
disconnecting them from the spark plugs. 1 For improved access, apply the handbrake, 2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Refer to the appropriate Section in Chapter then jack up the front of the vehicle and 3 Position a suitable container beneath the
5 and, where applicable, remove the support on axle stands (see “Jacking and filter, then slowly loosen the fuel inlet union to
distributor cap and rotor arm. vehicle support”). relieve the pressure in the fuel lines.
4 Clean the HT leads and distributor cap with
4 Disconnect the fuel inlet and outlet unions.
a dry cloth. Scrape any corrosion or other
Be prepared for petrol spillage. If necessary,
identify the fuel line unions for use when
refitting.
5 Loosen the filter clamp screw, and
withdraw the filter from the clamp. Drain the
petrol from the filter into the container.
Dispose of the filter carefully.
40.2 Brake band adjustment - A4LD type
transmission
39.6 Bosch distributor cap showing HT A Adjuster screws C Kickdown lever 40.6 Transmission identification tag with
segments (A) and carbon brush (B) B Locknuts part number starting with “88”
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years 1•21
41.1 Fuel filter location - outlet union 41.10 Fuel filter location (arrowed) under 42.1 Removing the crankcase vent valve
arrowed rear of vehicle from the oil separator
6 Fit the new filter, ensuring that the arrows on models, noting the following points.
42 Crankcase ventilation vent
the filter body point in the direction of fuel flow. 10 The fuel filter is located under the rear of
7 Tighten the clamp screw, and reconnect valve renewal
the vehicle, above the driveshaft (see
the fuel inlet and outlet unions. Ensure that the illustration). For access to the filter, chock
unions are correctly connected. On carburettor model SOHC engines,
the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the
8 Reconnect the battery negative lead, and renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve by
vehicle and support it on axle stands.
check the fuel line unions for leaks, pulling it from the oil separator and loosening
11 To remove the filter, the mounting bracket
pressurising the system by switching the the hose clip (see illustration). Fit the new
must first be removed from the floor, after
ignition on and off several times. valve, tighten the clip, and insert it into the oil
unscrewing the securing bolt. The filter can
separator grommet.
All models except 2.0 litre SOHC then be removed from the bracket after
unscrewing the clamp bolt.
9 Proceed as described for the 2.0 litre SOHC
1
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years
8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
43 Brake hydraulic system seal caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
45 Camshaft drivebelt renewal
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
and hose renewal
9 Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
bleed screw yet. recommended as a precautionary measure for
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid. SOHC engines but is compulsory for CVH
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand engines. Refer to Chapter 2 for the
Sections of Chapter 10.
caliper at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the appropriate renewal procedure.
level of the bleed screw.
11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
44 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the 46 Engine coolant renewal
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will
12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
be needed. A considerable quantity of Caution: Before proceeding,
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear
hydraulic fluid will be required - probably note the precautions given in
of the piston. Have the assistant depress the
about 2 litres (nearly half a gallon). Chapter 3, Section 1.
brake pedal gently in order to move the
2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
caliper piston out. 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
support the front of the vehicle and remove
13 With the pedal held depressed, slacken 2 It is preferable to drain the cooling system
the front wheels.
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and with the engine cold. If this is not possible,
3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
take precautions against scalding when
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
removing the expansion tank cap. Place a
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
thick rag over the cap and slacken the cap a
can now be released.
the free end of each tube in a jar.
little to release any pressure. When all
14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-
5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
pressure has been released, carry on
hand brake pad and caliper.
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
unscrewing the cap and remove it.
15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
3 Early models have no radiator drain plug, so
pad again. Carry out the operations described
6 When air emerges from both bleed screws,
the radiator must be drained by detaching the
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
bottom coolant hose from the outlet on the
caliper.
without disconnecting it and remove the
right-hand side of the radiator. Later SOHC
16 Bleed the rear brakes (Chapter 10).
inboard brake pad.
models have a drain plug located in the base
17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
7 Depress the caliper piston, using a
of the left-hand radiator end tank, whilst all
and tighten the wheel nuts.
purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a
CVH models have a drain plug in the
18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the
right-hand radiator end tank and DOHC
up to the discs, then make a final check of the
caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have
models have a plug to the bottom right-hand
hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges
side of the radiator.
reservoir cap.
from the bleed screw again.
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
1•22
46.4 Unscrew the clip and remove the 46.6a Disconnect the bottom hose from 46.6b Radiator drain plug (arrowed) - later
rubber cap from the bleed spigot - the radiator - early OHC models CVH models
SOHC models
8 Dispose of the drained coolant safely.
4 Certain SOHC models have a bleed spigot and insert the hose into the cylinder head on
9 After some time the radiator and engine SOHC models, or into the inlet manifold on
on the thermostat housing, which is covered
waterways may become restricted or even CVH and DOHC models. Continue flushing
by a rubber cap. The cap should be removed
blocked with scale or sediment, which until clear water runs from the bottom hose
from the spigot before commencing draining
reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. (and cylinder block on SOHC models).
(see illustration).
When this occurs, the coolant will appear 15 Where applicable, refit the radiator and
5 With the expansion tank cap removed,
rusty and dark in colour and the system the thermostat.
place a suitable container beneath the
should then be flushed. 16 Reconnect any disturbed hoses and refit
radiator bottom hose or drain plug as
10 Disconnect the top hose from the radiator, and tighten the cylinder block drain plug
applicable.
then insert a garden hose and allow water to and/or radiator drain plug, as applicable.
6 On early models, loosen the clip and ease
circulate through the radiator until it runs clear 17 On SOHC models fitted with a bleed
the bottom hose away from the radiator
from the outlet. spigot on the thermostat housing, ensure that
outlet. On later models, unscrew the drain
11 Insert the hose in the expansion tank filler the rubber cap is removed before refilling the
plug (see illustrations). Allow the coolant to
neck and allow water to run out of the bottom
system.
drain into the container.
hose (and cylinder block on SOHC models)
18 Pour coolant in through the expansion
7 On SOHC models, place a second
until clear. If, after a reasonable period the
container beneath the drain plug on the tank filler hole until the level is up to the
water still does not run clear, the radiator can
right-hand side of the cylinder block (see “MAX” mark.
be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning
illustration). Unscrew the drain plug and 19 Where applicable, refit the rubber cap to
agent.
allow the coolant to drain into the container. the bleed spigot when coolant starts to
12 Disconnect the inlet hose from the inlet
No cylinder block drain plug is fitted on CVH emerge from the spigot. Tighten the clip.
manifold, connect the garden hose and allow
and DOHC models. 20 Squeeze the coolant hoses to help
water to circulate through the manifold,
disperse air locks. Top-up the coolant further
automatic choke (where applicable), heater
if necessary, then refit and tighten the
and out through the bottom hose until clear.
expansion tank cap.
13 In severe cases of contamination the
21 Run the engine up to operating
system should be reverse flushed. To do this,
temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop
remove the radiator, invert it and insert a hose
the engine and allow it to cool, then re-check
in the outlet. Continue flushing until clear
the coolant level. Top-up the level as
water runs from the inlet.
necessary, taking care to avoid scalding as
14 The engine should also be reverse
flushed. To do this, remove the thermostat the expansion tank cap is removed.
46.7 Cylinder block drain plug (arrowed) -
SOHC models (engine removed)
SOHC engines 2A•7
Piston ring end gap:
Top:
Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.048 mm
From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 0.600 mm
Centre:
Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.048 mm
From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 0.600 mm
Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 1.400 mm
Auxiliary shaft
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)
Cylinder head
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine
Valves
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:
Valve clearance (cold engine):
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.003 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)
Valve timing: All except code NAE Engine code NAE
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24º BTDC 18º BTDC
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64º ABDC 58º ABDC
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70º BBDC 70º BBDC
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18º ATDC 6º ATDC
Lubrication system
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
2A
Fuel injection models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 to 130 85 to 96
Fuel injection models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 to 115 74 to 85
drilled spray tube from the centre camshaft 2 The engine must be at operating
bearing. temperature, the battery must be fully
1 General information A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system charged and the spark plugs must be
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases removed. The services of an assistant will also
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil be required.
The engine is of a four-cylinder, in-line,
separator and control valve. 3 Disable the ignition system by
single overhead camshaft type, mounted at
the front of the vehicle and available in 1.3, disconnecting the coil LT feed. Fit the
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre versions. compression tester to No 1 spark plug hole.
2 Engine oil and filter - renewal
The crankshaft incorporates five main (The type of tester which screws into the
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the spark plug hole is to be preferred.)
centre main bearing in order to control 4 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 8.
crankshaft endfloat. open and crank the engine on the starter.
The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt Record the highest reading obtained on the
3 Valve clearances - checking and
and operates the slightly angled valves via compression tester.
adjustment
cam followers which pivot on ball-pins. 5 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
The auxiliary shaft which is also driven by recording the pressure developed in each.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 23.
the toothed belt, drives the distributor, oil 6 Desired pressures are given in the
pump and fuel pump.
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
The cylinder head is of crossflow design 4 Crankcase ventilation system - is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left- inspection and maintenance engine oil into the spark plug hole and repeat
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
the test.
on the right-hand side. Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35. 7 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
the compression pressure, this indicates that
which draws oil through a strainer located
bore, piston or piston ring wear was
inside the sump, and forces it through a full- 5 Compression test responsible for the pressure loss. No
flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are 1 When engine performance is poor, or if
blame.
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
8 A low reading from the two adjacent
crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
cylinders is almost certainly due to the head
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends. can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
gasket between them having blown.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied performed regularly it can give warning of
9 On completion of the test, refit the spark
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The trouble before any other symptoms become
camshaft followers are supplied with oil via a apparent. plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
2A•8 SOHC engines
fuel rail. Position a suitable container beneath
6 Major operations possible with 9 Engine - removal leaving the pressure regulator, then slowly loosen the
fuel feed union to relieve the pressure in the
the engine in the vehicle manual gearbox in vehicle
fuel lines before disconnecting the union.
Take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends
The following operations can be carried out Note: The air conditioning system should
of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
without removing the engine from the vehicle: always be discharged by a Ford dealer or air
14 Disconnect the throttle cable, and where
conditioning specialist.
a) Removal and servicing of the cylinder
applicable remove its bracket.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
head 15 Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
b) Removal of the camshaft after removal of coil.
will be required for this operation.
the cylinder head 16 Disconnect the wiring from the following
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
c) Removal of the timing belt and sprockets components as applicable depending on
2 Remove the bonnet.
d) Removal of the sump model:
3 On carburettor models remove the air cleaner.
e) Removal of the oil pump Alternator
4 On fuel injection models, disconnect the
f) Removal of the pistons and connecting Starter motor
crankcase ventilation hose from the air inlet
rods Distributor
hose, then disconnect the air inlet hose from
g) Removal of the big-end bearings Oil pressure warning lamp switch
the throttle body. Depress the locking clip on
h) Removal of the engine mountings Temperature gauge sender
the airflow meter wiring plug and disconnect
i) Removal of the clutch and flywheel Engine coolant temperature sensor
the plug (pulling on the plug, not the wiring)
Automatic choke
j) Removal of crankshaft front and rear oil
then release the four securing clips and lift off
Automatic choke pull-down solenoid
seals the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter and
Carburettor anti-dieselling valve
k) Removal of the auxiliary shaft air inlet hose.
Inlet manifold heater
5 Remove the four retaining clips and
Carburettor stepper motor
7 Major operations requiring unscrew the two retaining screws, then
Fuel injection harness
withdraw the upper section of the cooling fan
engine removal Dipstick
shroud from the radiator. Unclip and remove
17 Where applicable, detach the power
the lower section of the shroud.
The following operations can only be carried steering pump from the cylinder block and
6 Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan as
out after removing the engine from the move it to one side.
described in Chapter 3.
18 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
vehicle: 7 Drain the cooling system.
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
a) Removal of the crankshaft main bearings 8 Disconnect the upper radiator hose and
engine compartment. Note the location of the
b) Removal of the crankshaft where applicable, the expansion tank hose
earth strap on one of the bolts.
from the thermostat housing.
19 Note the location of the earth strap on the
9 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
8 Method of engine removal rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
coolant pump, and where applicable from the
and disconnect the strap.
inlet manifold and automatic choke. Unclip
20 Apply the handbrake (if not already done),
the coolant hose from the bracket on the
jack up the front of the vehicle and support on
Warning: Vehicles equipped exhaust manifold hot air shroud/heat shield,
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
with air conditioning: or the camshaft cover, as applicable.
21 Drain the engine oil into a suitable
Components of the air 10 On carburettor models, where applicable
container.
conditioning system may disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine
22 Remove the starter motor.
management module.
obstruct work being undertaken on the
23 Remove the exhaust downpipe.
11 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
engine, and it is not always possible to 24 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
from the inlet manifold.
unbolt and move them aside sufficiently, securing the engine mountings to the
12 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
within the limits of their flexible crossmember. Recover the washers.
hoses from the carburettor and where
connecting pipes. In such a case, the 25 Unscrew and remove the remaining
applicable the mechanical fuel pump and plug
system should be discharged by a Ford engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol
from the engine adapter plate (see
dealer or air conditioning specialist. The spillage. Remember to take adequate fire
illustration).
refrigerant is harmless under normal precautions.
26 Remove the two securing bolts and
conditions, but in the presence of a naked 13 On fuel injection models, disconnect the
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a fuel feed line from the fuel pressure regulator,
the engine and gearbox.
then disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
27 Working inside the vehicle, place a
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them it fully against its stop which will hold the
with a diluted solution of boric acid and automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
seek medical advice immediately. quadrant.
28 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
The engine may be lifted out either on its clutch release arm, and pass the cable
own, or together with the manual through the bellhousing. Where applicable,
gearbox/automatic transmission. Unless work remove the clip securing the clutch cable to
is to be carried out on the manual the right-hand engine mounting bracket. Note
gearbox/automatic transmission, it is the cable routing for use when refitting.
recommended that the engine is removed on 29 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using
its own. Where automatic transmission is
a block of wood between the jack and the
fitted, the engine should where possible be
gearbox to spread the load.
removed on its own due to the additional
30 Make a final check to ensure that all
weight of the transmission.
9.25 Engine adapter plate bolt (A) and relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
engine-to-gearbox brace (B) disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
SOHC engines 2A•9
31 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
11 Engine/manual gearbox
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of assembly - removal and
the engine. The engine should be supported separation
horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear.
32 Raise the engine until the engine
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
mountings are clear of the crossmember then proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from will be required for this operation.
the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is
Removal
adequately supported, and take care not to
strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be 1 Proceed as described in Section 9,
necessary to rock the engine a little to release paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive.
it from the gearbox. 2 Note the location of the earth strap on the
11.20 Lifting the engine/gearbox assembly
33 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
from the vehicle
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage and disconnect the strap.
the radiator fins. 3 Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the 19 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
gear lever knob and remove the centre brackets located at the front and rear of the
console. Where a full length console is fitted,
10 Engine - removal leaving cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
it is only necessary to remove the front tray. the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
automatic transmission in 4 Detach the outer gaiter from the retaining steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is
vehicle frame and withdraw it over the gear lever. being removed.
5 Unscrew the securing screws on early 20 Raise the engine/gearbox so that the
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before models, or release the clips on later models, engine mountings are clear of the
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle and remove the gaiter retaining frame and crossmember, then ease the assembly
will be required for this operation. inner gaiter. forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
1 Proceed as described in Section 9, 6 Using a suitable Torx key, remove the jack which is supporting the gearbox. Lift the
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally, screws securing the gear lever to the gearbox assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to
extension housing, and withdraw the gear
where applicable, disconnect the kickdown damage surrounding components (see
lever. Note how the base of the gear lever
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold. illustration).
locates over the selector shaft.
2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to- 21 With the engine/gearbox assembly
7 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
transmission bolts which are accessible from removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar
2A
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
the engine compartment. Note the location of to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.
Ensure that there is sufficient working room
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
Separation
beneath the vehicle.
transmission dipstick tube bracket.
8 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
3 Proceed as described in Section 9, 22 To separate the engine from the gearbox,
downpipe from the manifold and remove the proceed as follows.
paragraphs 20 to 24 inclusive.
exhaust system. 23 Remove the starter motor.
4 Working through the starter motor aperture,
9 Remove the propeller shaft. 24 Support the engine and gearbox
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
10 Where applicable bend back the locktabs, horizontally on blocks of wood.
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
then unscrew the two bolts in each case 25 Unscrew the two securing bolts and
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as the engine and gearbox.
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
far as possible. 26 Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
5 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
11 Proceed as described in Section 9, gearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
paragraphs 27 and 28. strap, and remove the bolt from the engine
from the engine adapter plate. Where
12 Drain the engine oil into a container. adapter plate.
applicable pull the blanking plug from the
13 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable, 27 Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
adapter plate.
securing the engine mountings to the care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
6 Remove the two securing bolts and
crossmember. Recover the washers. may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
14 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing separate them.
from the engine and transmission.
lamp switch.
7 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and 15 Remove the retaining circlip, and
12 Engine/automatic
support the transmission with a trolley jack, withdraw the speedometer cable from the
transmission assembly -
using a block of wood between the jack and gearbox extension housing.
the transmission to spread the load. removal and separation
16 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
8 Proceed as described in Section 9, using a block of wood between the jack and
paragraphs 30 and 31. Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
the gearbox to spread the load.
9 Raise the engine until the engine mountings proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
17 Unscrew the four bolts securing the
are clear of the crossmember, then pull the will be required for this operation. Any
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
engine forwards to disconnect it from the suspected faults in the automatic transmission
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter should be referred to a Ford dealer or
the crossmember to the gearbox and remove
automatic transmission specialist before
is held firmly in place in the transmission the crossmember. Note the position of the
removal of the unit, as the specialist fault
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
diagnosis equipment is designed to operate
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be mounting cup and where applicable the
with the transmission in the vehicle.
necessary to rock the engine a little to release exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
it from the transmission. 18 Make a final check to ensure that all Removal
10 Once clear of the transmission lift the relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
1 Proceed as described in Section 9,
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to disconnected to facilitate removal of the en-
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,
gine/gearbox assembly.
damage the radiator fins.
2A•10 SOHC engines
18 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting 7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
where applicable disconnect the kickdown
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold. brackets located at the front and rear of the quantity of oil.
2 Note the location of the earth strap on the cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that 8 Fill the cooling system.
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut the engine/transmission assembly will assume 9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
and disconnect the strap. a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it of the alternator and where applicable the
3 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle is being removed. power steering pump drivebelt(s).
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 19 Raise the engine/transmission so that the 10 Adjust the throttle cable.
Ensure that there is sufficient working room engine mountings are clear of the
beneath the vehicle. crossmember, then ease the assembly
14 Engine - refitting (automatic
4 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
transmission in vehicle)
downpipe from the manifold and remove the jack which is supporting the transmission. Lift
exhaust system. the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not
1 Reverse the procedure described in Section
5 Remove the propeller shaft. to damage surrounding components.
10, noting the following points:
6 Where applicable bend back the locktabs, 20 With the engine/transmission assembly
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is
then unscrew the two bolts, in each case removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be
3 As the torque converter is only loosely
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as moved.
engaged in the transmission, care must be
far as possible.
Separation taken to prevent the torque converter from
7 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
falling out forwards. When the torque
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug 21 To separate the engine from the
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
the open ends of the pipes and the transmission, proceed as follows.
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid 22 Remove the starter motor.
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
leakage. Remove the fluid cooler pipe bracket 23 Support the engine and transmission
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
from the engine mounting bracket, and place horizontally on blocks of wood.
torque converter will result in damage to the
it to one side. 24 Working through the starter motor
transmission.
8 Remove the two clips securing the selector aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
4 As the engine is installed, guide the torque
rod, and detach the selector rod from the to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
converter studs through the holes in the
manual selector lever, and the selector lever the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
driveplate, noting that on the C3 type
on the transmission. crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
transmission, the torque converter fluid drain
9 Disconnect the kickdown cable from the to each nut in turn through the aperture.
plug must line up with the opening in the
lever on the transmission, and where 25 Unscrew the two securing bolts and
driveplate (see illustration 2.25 in Chapter 7B).
applicable, detach the cable from the bracket disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
When the engine is positioned flush with the
on the transmission. On C3 type transmissions from the engine and transmission.
engine adapter plate and the transmission
it will be necessary to unscrew the locknut in 26 Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
housing, check that the torque converter is
order to remove the cable from the bracket. transmission bolts, noting the locations of the
free to move axially a small amount before
Withdraw the cable from the vehicle. earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
refitting and tightening the engine-to-
10 Disconnect the wiring from the starter transmission dipstick tube bracket. Remove
transmission bolts.
inhibitor/reversing lamp switch and where the bolt from the engine adapter plate, and
5 Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
applicable, on A4LD type transmissions, the where applicable pull the blanking plug from
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
kickdown solenoid and the lock-up clutch. the adapter plate.
transmission bolts have been fitted and
11 Remove the securing screw, and 27 Pull the engine and transmission apart,
tightened.
disconnect the speedometer cable from the ensuring that the torque converter is held
6 Refit the exhaust downpipe.
transmission extension housing. Plug the firmly in place in the transmission housing,
7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
opening in the transmission to prevent dirt otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid
ingress. quantity of oil.
spillage and possible damage. It may be
12 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the 8 Fill the cooling system.
necessary to rock the units slightly to
vacuum diaphragm unit, and unclip the pipe 9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
separate them.
from its securing bracket on the transmission of the alternator and where applicable the
housing where applicable. power steering pump drivebelt(s).
13 Engine - refitting (manual
13 Drain the engine oil into a suitable 10 Adjust the throttle cable.
gearbox in vehicle)
container. 11 Where applicable, adjust the kickdown
14 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable, cable.
1 Reverse the procedure described in Section
securing the engine mountings to the
9, noting the following points:
crossmember. Recover the washers.
15 Engine/manual gearbox
2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check
15 Support the transmission with a trolley
assembly - reconnection and
that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This
jack, using a block of wood to spread the load.
refitting
is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input
16 Unscrew the four bolts securing the
shaft splines will pass through the splines in
transmission crossmember to the vehicle
1 Reverse the procedure described in Section
the centre of the friction disc.
underbody. Note the position of the earth
11, noting the following points.
3 Check that the clutch release arm and
strap, where applicable. Unscrew the central
2 Before attempting to reconnect the engine
bearing are correctly fitted and lightly grease
bolt securing the crossmember to the
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
the input shaft splines.
transmission and remove the crossmember.
disc is centralised. This is to ensure that the
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is
Recover the mounting cup and where
gearbox input shaft splines will pass through
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
applicable the exhaust mounting bracket.
the splines in the centre of the friction disc.
5 Refit the exhaust downpipe.
17 Make a final check to ensure that all
3 Check that the clutch release arm and
6 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
the input shaft splines.
engine/transmission assembly. removal.
SOHC engines 2A•11
8 Refit the exhaust system. engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
9 Fill the engine with the correct grade and paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
quantity of oil. 3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a
10 Fill the cooling system. concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
11 Check and if necessary top-up the of trouble.
transmission fluid level. 4 As parts are removed, clean them in a
12 Check and if necessary adjust the tension paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts
of the alternator and where applicable the with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult
power steering pump drivebelt(s). to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
13 Adjust the throttle cable. hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
14 If applicable, adjust the kickdown cable. 5 It is advisable to have suitable containers
available to hold small items according to
their use, as this will help when reassembling
17 Engine mountings - renewal the engine and also prevent possible losses.
17.4 Withdrawing an engine mounting
6 Always obtain a complete set of new
gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but
1 The engine mountings incorporate retain the old gaskets with a view to using
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is
hydraulic dampers and must be renewed if them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
excessive engine movement is evident. new one is not available.
5 Refit the propeller shaft.
2 Working in the engine compartment, 7 Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts and
6 Refit the exhaust system.
unscrew the central nuts securing the engine washers to their locations after removing the
7 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
mounting brackets to the tops of the relevant components. This will help to protect
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
mountings. Recover the washers where the threads and will also prevent losses.
removal.
applicable. 8 Retain unserviceable components in order
8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
3 Remove the two bolts or the central nut and to compare them with the new parts supplied.
quantity of oil.
washer (as applicable) in each case securing 9 Suitable splined sockets will be required for
9 Fill the cooling system.
the mountings to the crossmember. removal of the oil pump bolts, the timing belt
10 Check and if necessary top-up the
4 Raise the engine using a hoist and lifting tensioner bolts on early models (up to mid-
gearbox oil level.
tackle attached to the engine lifting brackets on 1985), and the cylinder head bolts on early
11 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
the cylinder head, or a jack with an interposed models (up to early 1984) and a size T55 Torx
of the alternator and where applicable the
socket will be required to remove the cylinder
block of wood under the sump, until the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
head bolts on later models (from early 1984).
mountings can be withdrawn (see illustration).
12 Adjust the throttle cable.
2A
10 Before dismantling the main engine
5 Fit the new mountings, then lower the
components the following externally mounted
engine onto them.
16 Engine/automatic ancillary components can be removed, with
6 Fit the bolts or the nuts and washers (as
transmission assembly - reference to the relevant Chapters of this
applicable) securing the mountings to the
reconnection and refitting Manual and the relevant Sections of this
crossmember, and tighten them.
Chapter, where applicable:
7 Fit and tighten the central nuts, and washers
Inlet manifold (and carburettor, where
if applicable, securing the engine mounting
1 Reverse the removal procedure described
applicable
brackets to the tops of the mountings.
in Section 12, noting the following points.
Exhaust manifold
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is
Fuel pump and operating pushrod (where
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 18 Engine dismantling, applicable)
3 As the torque converter is only loosely
examination, renovation and Alternator
engaged in the transmission, care must be
reassembly - general information Distributor, HT leads and spark plug
taken to prevent the torque converter from
Coolant pump, thermostat and housing
falling out forwards. When the torque
Temperature gauge sender and oil pressure
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
Dismantling warning lamp switch
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
Oil filter
1 It is best to mount the engine on a
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
Dipstick
dismantling stand but if this is not available,
as shown. Incorrect installation of the torque
Engine mounting brackets (see illustration)
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
converter will result in damage to the
Crankcase ventilation valve and oil separator
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
transmission.
Clutch
have to be stripped down on the floor.
4 As the engine and transmission are
Alternator mounting bracket (see illustration)
2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the
reconnected, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate, noting that
on the C3 type transmission, the torque
converter fluid drain plug must line up with the
opening in the driveplate (see illustration 2.25
in Chapter 7B). When the engine is positioned
flush with the engine adapter plate and the
transmission housing, check that the torque
converter is free to move axially a small
amount before refitting and tightening the
engine-to-transmission bolts.
5 Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
6 Reconnect and adjust the selector rod. 18.10a Removing the right-hand engine 18.10b Removing the alternator mounting
7 Refit the propeller shaft. mounting bracket bracket
2A•12 SOHC engines
19.3 TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket 19.4 Loosening the timing belt tensioner 19.5 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) -
backplate aligned with indentation on spring bolt using a splined socket - models models from mid-1985
cylinder head up to mid-1985
5 On models from mid-1985 (without a
Examination and renovation 20 If the crankcase ventilation oil separator
tensioner spring), loosen the timing belt
was removed, apply a liquid sealing agent to
11 With the engine completely stripped,
tensioner bolts (see illustration) and move
its tube before pressing it into the cylinder
clean all the components and examine them
the tensioner away from the belt. If necessary
block.
for wear. Each part should be checked, and
to improve access, remove the thermostat
where necessary renewed or renovated as
housing.
19 Timing belt and sprockets -
described in the relevant Sections. Renew
6 Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of removal and refitting to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
course, unless it is known that they have had
sprocket.
little wear and are in perfect condition. Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before 7 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
12 If in doubt as to whether to renew a proceeding. On models from mid-1985 the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
component which is still just serviceable, (without a timing belt tensioner spring) the belt gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
consider the time and effort which will be tension should be checked using Ford special assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
incurred should it fail at an early date. tool No 21-113 after refitting. On models up to removing the starter motor and jamming the
Obviously the age and expected life of the mid-1985 (with a tensioner spring), a suitable ring gear teeth with a lever. Alternatively, if the
vehicle must influence the standards applied. splined socket will be required for the pulley has peripheral bolt holes, screw in a
13 Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be tensioner spring bolt. A suitable puller may be couple of bolts and use a lever between them
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and required to remove the sprockets. to jam it. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn
Torx type cylinder head bolts must be
very far, or piston/valve contact may occur.
Removal
renewed because of the high stresses to
8 Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
which they are subjected. 1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
14 Take the opportunity to renew the engine following operations: refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
core plugs while they are easily accessible. a) Disconnect the battery negative lead illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and b) Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan required on fuel-injection models.
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear c) Remove the coolant 9 Remove the guide washer from in front of
the new plugs with sealant and tap them pump/alternator/power-steering pump the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
squarely into position. drivebelt(s) timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
d) For improved access, remove the radiator
Reassembly get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
and disconnect the radiator top hose from 10 If desired, the sprocket can be removed as
15 To ensure maximum life with minimum the thermostat housing follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 21.
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must 2 Unscrew the three securing bolts and 11 Remove the crankshaft sprocket, refitting
everything be correctly assembled, but it must washers and withdraw the timing cover. Note the bolt part way and using a puller if
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be the position of the fourth bolt above the necessary (see illustration).
clear, and locking washers and spring crankshaft pulley which can be left in place. 12 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all 3 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley while holding the sprocket stationary with a
bearings and other working surfaces bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
thoroughly with clean engine oil during (top dead centre) mark on the crankshaft
assembly. pulley is aligned with the pointer on the
16 Before assembly begins, renew any bolts crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
or studs with damaged threads. illustration 16.2a of Chapter 5) and the pointer
17 Gather together a torque wrench, oil can, on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil with the indentation on the cylinder head (see
seals, together with a new oil filter. illustration).
18 If they have been removed, new Torx type 4 On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner
cylinder head bolts and new flywheel bolts will spring), loosen the timing belt tensioner spring
be required. bolt using the special splined socket (see
19 After reassembling the main engine illustration), then loosen the tensioner pivot
components, refit the ancillary components bolt. If necessary for improved access,
listed, referring to the appropriate Chapters remove the thermostat housing. Press the
where necessary. Delicate items such as the tensioner against the spring tension and
alternator and distributor may be left until after tighten the pivot bolt to retain the tensioner in 19.8 Using a puller to remove a pressed
the engine has been refitted if preferred. the released position. type crankshaft pulley
SOHC engines 2A•13
19.9 Removing the guide washer from the 19.11 Removing the crankshaft sprocket 19.13 Removing the auxiliary shaft
crankshaft sprocket
13 Remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket, as during removal, and tighten the bolt to the route to align the marks.
refitting the bolt part way and using a puller if specified torque. Where applicable, refit the 25 If the distributor is fitted, turn the auxiliary
necessary (see illustration). camshaft cover. shaft sprocket so that the rotor arm points to
14 Hold the camshaft sprocket stationary 19 Fit the auxiliary shaft sprocket with the the No 1 HT segment position in the
using a home-made tool similar to that shown ribs towards the engine. Fit the sprocket bolt distributor cap.
(in illustration 18.17 in Part C of this Chapter) and tighten it to the specified torque, 26 Fit the timing belt over the sprockets and
with two bolts engaged in the sprocket holes, counterholding the sprocket with a bar round the tensioner.
and unscrew the bolt and washer. through one of the holes. 27 On models up to mid-1985 (with a
Alternatively, remove the camshaft cover and 20 Fit the crankshaft sprocket, chamfered tensioner spring), slacken the pivot bolt, and
hold the camshaft using a spanner on the side inwards. allow the tensioner roller to rest against the
boss behind the No 6 valve cam. 21 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft belt. Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
15 Remove the camshaft sprocket, refitting sprocket, but do not engage it with the other bolt, turn the crankshaft through two
the bolt part way and using a puller if
sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt. complete revolutions in a clockwise direction,
necessary, then remove the backplate, noting
If the old belt is being refitted, observe the to bring No 1 cylinder back to TDC. Tighten
2A
which way round it is fitted (see illustrations).
previously noted running direction. the tensioner pivot bolt and then the spring
16 If desired, the camshaft oil seal can be
22 Refit the guide washer and the crankshaft bolt to the specified torque. Do not turn the
removed using self-tapping screws and a pair
pulley. Fit the bolt and washer and tighten just crankshaft anti-clockwise with the belt
of grips. A new seal can be fitted using a
enough to seat the pulley, being careful not to tensioner released. Proceed to paragraph 33.
suitable tube drift to press it into place.
turn the crankshaft. 28 On models from mid-1985 (without a
Lubricate the seal lips with clean engine oil
23 Make sure that the TDC pointer on the tensioner spring), move the tensioner to
before installation.
camshaft sprocket backplate is still aligned tension the belt roughly and nip up the
Refitting with the indentation on the cylinder head. tensioner bolts. Using a socket on the
24 Make sure that the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft
17 Refit the sprockets as follows.
crankshaft pulley is still aligned with the through two complete revolutions in a
18 Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate, as
pointer on the oil seal housing. If necessary, clockwise direction (to bring No 1 cylinder
noted during removal, then fit the sprocket.
Insert the bolt, hold the camshaft or sprocket turn the crankshaft by the shortest possible back to TDC), then turn the crankshaft 60º
19.15a Removing the camshaft sprocket . . . 19.15b . . . and backplate
2A•14 SOHC engines
19.28 Timing belt tension checking sequence - models from mid-1985
A No 1 cylinder at TDC B No 1 cylinder at 60° BTDC for C Return No 1 cylinder to TDC for
checking adjustment
anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC) bolts and move the tensioner to increase or
20 Cylinder head - removal and
decrease the belt tension. Tighten the
(see illustration).
tensioner bolts to the specified torque.
29 The belt tension should now be checked refitting (engine in vehicle)
by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21- 31 Turn the crankshaft 90º clockwise past
113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60º Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 and
readings are: BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC). the note at the beginning of Section 21 before
Used belt - 4 to 5 Check the belt tension again. proceeding.
New belt - 10 to 11 32 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
If the tension gauge is not available, a rough Removal
30 and 31 until the belt tension is correct.
guide is that the belt tension is correct when 33 Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
the belt can be twisted 90º in the middle of the
specified torque, preventing the crankshaft 2 Drain the cooling system.
longest run with the fingers, using moderate
from turning as described in paragraph 7 (see 3 Disconnect the coolant hose from the
pressure (see illustration). In this case, the
illustration). thermostat housing.
vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so
34 Refit the timing cover and tighten its bolts. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the temperature
that the belt tension can be checked using the
gauge sender.
35 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
special gauge at the earliest opportunity.
5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
operations described in paragraph 1.
30 If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
plugs and from the clips on the camshaft
36 When the engine is next started, check
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cover and remove the spark plugs.
the ignition timing is correct.
cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensioner
6 On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
7 The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds. If desired, the
inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to
one side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and
cables connected, but care must be taken not
to strain any of the wires, hoses, pipes or
cables.
8 Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold flange. Recover the gasket.
9 Disconnect the coolant hose from the clip
on the exhaust manifold hot air shroud, and if
19.29 Twisting the timing belt to assess its 19.33 Holding a pressed type crankshaft desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
tension pulley with two bolts and a lever while 10 If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
tightening the bolt the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant
SOHC engines 2A•15
valve clearances. This work is easier to carry
21 Cylinder head - removal and out on the bench rather than in the vehicle.
10 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
refitting (engine removed)
approximately 20 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent any damage to
Tap a stuck cylinder head open valves.
free with a wooden mallet. 11 Make sure that the mating faces of the
Do not insert a lever into the cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
head joint as this may clean, then locate the new gasket on the
damage the mating faces. block making sure that all the internal holes
are aligned (see illustration). Do not use
Note: Up to early 1984, splined type cylinder jointing compound.
head bolts were used, and from early 1984, 12 Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
21.11 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket size T55 Torx bolts were used. Torx type bolts on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
must always be renewed after slackening. The with the indentation on the front of the
two types of bolts are interchangeable, but
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise, cylinder head.
only in complete sets - the two types must not
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side, 13 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket.
be mixed on the same engine. A suitable
ensuring that it is adequately supported. The help of an assistant will ensure that the
special socket will be required for removal of
11 If not already done, unclip any wires and gasket is not dislodged.
the bolts, and a new cylinder head gasket
hoses from the camshaft cover, noting their 14 Lightly oil the cylinder head bolt threads
must be used when refitting.
locations for use when refitting, and on fuel and heads, then insert the bolts into their
injection models unbolt the bracing strut Removal locations in the cylinder head. Note that if the
securing the inlet manifold to the right-hand original bolts were of the Torx type, new bolts
1 With the manifolds removed, proceed as
side of the cylinder head. must be used when refitting.
follows.
12 If desired, remove the thermostat and 15 Using the relevant special socket, tighten
2 Remove the timing belt.
housing, and the temperature gauge sender.
the bolts in the correct sequence (see
3 Where applicable, disconnect the breather
13 Proceed as described in Section 21 for
illustration) to the stages given in the
hose from the camshaft cover.
cylinder head removal.
Specifications. Note that the bolt tightening
4 Unscrew the ten securing bolts and remove
Refitting stages are different for splined and Torx type
the camshaft cover and gasket. Take care not
bolts. If splined type bolts are used, they must
to lose the spacer plates which fit under the
2A
14 With the cylinder head refitted as
be finally tightened to the fourth stage after
bolt heads, where applicable.
described in Section 21, proceed as follows.
5 Using the relevant special socket, unscrew the engine has been run for 15 minutes (see
15 Where applicable, refit the temperature
the ten cylinder head bolts half a turn at a time Specifications).
gauge sender and the thermostat and
in the reverse order to that shown for 16 Check the condition of the camshaft
housing.
tightening. cover gasket and renew if necessary. Fit the
16 Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
6 With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder gasket to the camshaft cover, ensuring that
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable.
head from the block. If the cylinder head is
17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the the locating tabs and dovetails are correctly
stuck, tap it free with a wooden mallet. Place
manifold, using a new gasket. located, then refit the camshaft cover and
the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
18 Refit the coolant hose to the clip on the tighten the securing bolts in the order shown
prevent damage to the valves.
exhaust manifold hot air shroud. (see Chapter 1, Section 23), ensuring that the
7 Recover the gasket.
19 Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the spacer plates are in position under the bolt
HT leads. heads, where applicable.
Refitting
20 Reconnect the temperature gauge sender 17 Where applicable, reconnect the breather
8 Commence refitting as follows.
wiring. hose to the camshaft cover.
9 With the cylinder head supported on blocks
21 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the 18 Refit the timing belt.
of wood, check and if necessary adjust the
thermostat housing.
22 Fill the cooling system.
23 If not already done, refit any hoses and
wires to the camshaft cover, as noted during
removal, and on fuel injection models refit the
inlet manifold bracing strut. If splined type
cylinder head bolts have been used, leave
these operations until the bolts have been
finally tightened after running the engine.
24 Refit the air cleaner on carburettor
models.
25 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
26 If splined type cylinder head bolts have
been used, start the engine and run it at 1000
rpm for 15 minutes, then stop the engine,
remove the air cleaner and the camshaft cover
as described previously, and finally tighten the
cylinder head bolts to the fourth stage (see
Specifications). Refit the camshaft cover on
completion, then refit any hoses and wires,
and on fuel injection models the inlet manifold
21.15 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
bracing strut. Refit the air cleaner.
2A•16 SOHC engines
22.2a Compressing a valve spring 22.2b Removing a valve spring and cap 22.2c Removing a valve
masking tape. Press a little grease between
settle the components. If the original
22 Cylinder head - dismantling the two pistons and their bores to collect any
components are being refitted, ensure that
carbon dust; this can be wiped away when
they are refitted in their original locations.
and reassembly
the piston is lowered. To prevent carbon
10 Refit the camshaft.
build-up, polish the piston crown with metal
Note: A valve spring compressor will be
polish, but remove all traces of the polish
23 Cylinder head - inspection
required during this procedure. New valve
afterwards.
stem oil seals should be used on reassembly. and renovation 5 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting
Dismantling and burning, especially the exhaust valve
Note: On engines fitted with hardened valve heads. Renew any valve which is badly burnt.
1 With the cylinder head removed, remove
seats for use with unleaded petrol, valve and Examine the valve seats at the same time. If
the camshaft.
valve seat grinding and recutting cannot be the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by
2 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
carried out without the use of specialist grinding the valve heads and seats together
one of the valve springs until the split collets
equipment. Consult a Ford dealer for further
with coarse, then fine, grinding paste.
can be removed from the groove in the valve
advice.
6 Where excessive pitting has occurred, the
stem. Release the compressor and remove
1 This operation will normally only be
valve seats must be recut or renewed by a
the cap and spring, identifying them for
required at comparatively high mileages.
suitably equipped engineering works.
location. If the cap is difficult to release, do
However, if persistent pre-ignition (“pinking”)
7 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
not continue to tighten the compressor, but
occurs and performance has deteriorated
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer.
even though the engine adjustments are
Always make sure that the compressor is bench on blocks of wood.
correct, de-carbonizing and valve grinding
firmly located on the valve head and the cap. 8 Smear a trace of coarse carborundum
may be required.
Withdraw the valve (see illustrations). paste on the valve seat face and press a
2 With the cylinder head removed, use a
3 Repeat the procedure given in paragraph 2 suction grinding tool onto the valve head.
scraper to remove the carbon from the
for the remaining valves, keeping all With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve
combustion chambers and ports. Remove all
components identified for location so that head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally
traces of gasket from the cylinder head
they can be refitted in their original positions. to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull
surface, then wash it thoroughly with paraffin.
4 Prise the valve stem oil seals from the tops matt even surface is produced on the mating
3 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
of the valve guides (see illustration). surface of both the valve seat and the valve,
check that the cylinder head surface is not
5 Unscrew the cam follower ball-pins from wipe off the paste and repeat the process with
distorted. If it is, it must be resurfaced by a
the cylinder head, keeping them identified for fine carborundum paste as before. A light
suitably equipped engineering works.
location. spring placed under the valve head will greatly
4 If the engine is still in the vehicle, clean the
ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken
Reassembly piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges,
ring of light grey matt finish is produced on
but make sure that no carbon drops between
6 Commence reassembly by refitting the cam the mating surface of both the valve and seat,
the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two
follower ball-pins to their original locations,
the grinding operation is complete.
of the pistons at the top of their bores and
where applicable.
9 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head
seal off the remaining bores with paper and
7 Lubricate the valve stems and guides with
and stem, and clean away all traces of
SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, then insert the valves
grinding compound. Clean the valves and
into their original guides.
seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then wipe
8 Wrap a thin layer of adhesive tape over the
with a clean rag.
collet groove of each valve, then smear the
10 If the guides are worn they will need
new oil seals with a little SAE 80/90 hypoid oil
reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide
and slide them down the valve stems onto the
inserts. The valve seats will also need
guides. If necessary use a suitable metal tube
recutting to ensure that they are concentric
to press the oil seals into the guides. Remove
with the stems. This work should be entrusted
the adhesive tape.
to a Ford dealer or local engineering works.
9 Working on each valve in turn, fit the valve
11 Check that the free length of the valve
spring and cap, then compress the spring
springs is as specified, and renew if
using the valve spring compressor and fit the
necessary. Do not renew individual springs; if
split collets to the groove in the valve stem.
any springs are excessively worn, renew all
Release the compressor and tap the end of
22.4 Removing a valve stem oil seal the springs as a set.
the valve stem with a soft-faced mallet to
SOHC engines 2A•17
24.4 Withdrawing the camshaft oil supply 24.5 Note how the cam follower retaining 24.6 Removing a cam follower
tube springs are fitted
a suitable tube drift or socket (see
withdraw the camshaft oil supply tube (see
24 Camshaft and cam followers illustration). Smear the seal lip with clean
illustration).
engine oil.
5 Note how the cam follower retaining
- removal, inspection and
14 Lubricate the camshaft, bearings and
springs are fitted, then unhook them from the
refitting
thrustplate with SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, then
cam followers (see illustration).
carefully insert the camshaft from the rear of
6 Loosen the locknuts and back off the ball-
Note: A new camshaft oil seal should be used
the cylinder head, taking care not to damage
pin adjuster nuts until the cam followers can
when refitting the camshaft.
the bearings.
be removed (see illustration). Note their
Removal 15 Locate the thrustplate in the camshaft
locations for use when refitting. It will be
groove, then insert and tighten the bolts.
necessary to rotate the camshaft during this
1 Remove the cylinder head.
16 Using a dial test indicator if available, or
operation.
2 Hold the camshaft stationary using a
feeler blades, check that the camshaft
7 Unscrew the two bolts and remove the
suitable spanner on the cast boss behind the
endfloat is within the limits given in the
camshaft thrustplate from the rear bearing
No 6 valve cam, and unscrew the camshaft
Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate
housing (see illustration).
sprocket bolt and washer.
2A
8 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the and re-check. If this does not bring the
3 Remove the camshaft sprocket, using a
rear of the cylinder head taking care not to endfloat within limits, the camshaft must be
suitable puller if necessary, and withdraw the
damage the bearings (see illustration). renewed.
sprocket backplate, noting which way round it
9 Prise the oil seal from the front bearing in 17 Lubricate the ball-pins with SAE 80/90
is fitted.
the cylinder head (see illustration). hypoid oil, then refit the cam followers to their
4 Remove the three securing bolts and
original locations, and refit the retaining
Inspection springs as noted during removal. It will be
10 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft necessary to rotate the camshaft during this
journals and lobes, and the cam followers for operation.
wear. If wear is excessive, considerable noise 18 Fit the oil supply tube and tighten the
would have been noticed from the top of the bolts.
engine when running, and a new camshaft 19 Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate, as
and followers must be fitted. noted during removal.
11 Check the camshaft bearings for wear, 20 Fit the camshaft sprocket, then insert and
and if necessary have them renewed by a tighten the bolt (with washer in place) to the
Ford dealer. specified torque, holding the camshaft
12 Check the camshaft oil supply tube for stationary as described in paragraph 2.
obstructions, making sure the jet holes are clear. 21 With the cylinder head supported on
blocks of wood, adjust the valve clearances.
Refitting This work is easier to carry out on the bench
13 Commence refitting by driving a new oil
24.7 Unscrew the securing bolts and rather than in the vehicle.
seal into the cylinder head front bearing, using
remove the camshaft thrustplate 22 Refit the cylinder head.
24.8 Withdrawing the camshaft 24.9 Prising out the camshaft oil seal 24.13 Fitting a new camshaft oil seal using
a socket
2A•18 SOHC engines
25.4 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft cover 25.5a Unscrew the auxiliary shaft 25.5b Withdraw the auxiliary shaft
securing bolts and remove the cover thrustplate securing screws and remove
the thrustplate
Refitting 2 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
25 Auxiliary shaft - removal,
by jamming the ring gear teeth or by bolting a
inspection and refitting 10 Commence refitting by lubricating the
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
auxiliary shaft journals with clean engine oil,
cylinder block.
Note: A new gasket should be used when then insert the shaft into the cylinder block.
3 Make alignment marks on the
refitting the auxiliary shaft cover (see text). 11 Locate the thrustplate in the shaft groove,
flywheel/driveplate and the end of the
then insert the crosshead screws and tighten
Removal crankshaft, so that the flywheel/driveplate can
them with an impact screwdriver.
be refitted in its original position.
1 Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary 12 Using a dial test indicator (if available), or
4 Unscrew the securing bolts and withdraw
shaft sprocket. feeler blades, check that the auxiliary shaft
the flywheel/driveplate. Do not drop it, it is
2 Remove the distributor. endfloat is within the limits given in the
very heavy. Note that on models with A4LD
Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate
3 Remove the mechanical fuel pump and
type automatic transmission, the driveplate
and re-check. If this does not bring the
operating pushrod (where applicable).
may be secured with one or two reinforcing
endfloat within limits, the auxiliary shaft must
4 Unscrew the three securing bolts and
plates depending on model.
be renewed.
remove the auxiliary shaft cover (see
5 The engine adapter plate may now be
13 Cut out the relevant section of a new
illustration). withdrawn from the dowels if required (see
gasket, and locate it on the cylinder block,
5 Unscrew the cross-head screws, using an illustration).
then refit the auxiliary shaft cover and tighten
impact screwdriver if necessary, remove the
Inspection
the securing bolts.
thrustplate and withdraw the auxiliary shaft
14 Where applicable, refit the fuel pump.
from the cylinder block (see illustrations). 6 With the flywheel/driveplate removed, the
15 Refit the distributor.
6 Cut the cover gasket along the top of the ring gear can be examined for wear and
16 Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and the
crankshaft front oil seal housing and scrape damage.
timing belt.
off the gasket. 7 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth it should be renewed. The old ring can
Inspection 26 Flywheel/driveplate - removal, be removed from the flywheel/driveplate by
7 Examine the shaft for wear and damage, cutting a notch between two teeth with a
inspection and refitting
and renew it if necessary. hacksaw and then splitting it with a cold
8 If desired, the oil seal in the cover can be chisel. Wear eye protection when doing this.
Note: The manufacturers recommend that the
renewed as follows. 8 Fitting of a new ring gear requires heating
flywheel/driveplate securing bolts are renewed
the ring to 400ºF (204ºC). This can be done by
9 Support the cover on blocks of wood and after slackening. Suitable thread-locking agent
polishing four equally spaced sections of the
drive out the old oil seal. Drive the new seal will be required to coat the bolt threads.
gear, laying it on a heat resistant surface (such
into place using a suitable metal tube or
Removal as fire bricks) and heating it evenly with a blow
socket (see illustrations). The sealing lip
lamp or torch until the polished areas turn a
must face towards the cylinder block. Smear 1 If the engine is in the vehicle, remove the
light yellow tinge. Do not overheat, or the hard
clutch or the automatic transmission, as
the sealing lip with clean engine oil before
wearing properties will be lost. The gear has a
applicable.
installation.
25.9a Driving out the auxiliary shaft cover 25.9b Using a socket to fit a new auxiliary 26.5 Withdrawing the engine adaptor plate
oil seal shaft cover oil seal
SOHC engines 2A•19
the outer face and using self-tapping screws
and a pair of grips.
3 If the oil seal cannot be removed as
described in paragraph 2, remove the sump
and the auxiliary shaft sprocket, then unbolt
the oil seal housing and the auxiliary shaft
front cover. Recover the gasket. The oil seal
can then be driven out from the inside of the
housing (see illustrations).
4 Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube or
socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into
the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean
26.10 Flywheel located on crankshaft 26.12 Use a strap to prevent the flywheel engine oil (see illustration).
turning as its securing bolts are tightened 5 Where applicable, refit the oil seal housing
and the auxiliary shaft front cover, using a
chamfered inner edge which should fit against 12 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from
new gasket, and tighten the bolts. Using a
the shoulder on the flywheel. When hot turning as described in paragraph 2, then
straight edge, ensure that the bottom face of
enough, place the gear in position quickly, tighten the securing bolts to the specified
the oil seal housing is aligned with the bottom
tapping it home if necessary, and let it cool torque in a diagonal sequence (see
face of the cylinder block before finally
naturally without quenching in any way. illustration).
tightening the bolts (see illustrations). Refit
13 If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the
Refitting the auxiliary shaft sprocket and refit the sump.
clutch or the automatic transmission, as
9 Commence refitting of the 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing
applicable.
flywheel/driveplate by refitting the engine belt.
adapter plate to the dowels on the rear of the
27 Crankshaft front oil seal -
cylinder block, where applicable.
28 Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
10 Ensure that the mating faces are clean,
renewal
then locate the flywheel/driveplate on the rear
Note: A new gasket will be required for
of the crankshaft, aligning the previously
1 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
refitting if the old seal housing is removed
made marks (see illustration).
engine adapter plate.
during this procedure.
11 Coat the threads of the securing bolts
2A
2 Extract the oil seal using an oil seal removal
1 Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft
with a liquid thread-locking agent, then insert
tool if available. It may also be possible to
sprocket.
the bolts. Note that the manufacturers rec-
remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face
2 If an oil seal removal tool is available, the oil
ommend the use of new bolts. Where
and using self-tapping screws and a pair of
seal can be removed at this stage. It may also
applicable refit the reinforcing plate(s) on
grips (see illustration).
models with A4LD type automatics be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling
27.3a Removing the crankshaft front oil 27.3b Driving the crankshaft front oil seal 27.4 Using a socket to fit a new crankshaft
seal housing from the housing front oil seal
27.5a Crankshaft front oil seal 27.5b Checking the alignment of the 28.2 Crankshaft rear oil seal location
housing/auxiliary shaft cover gasket crankshaft front oil seal housing (arrowed)
located on front of cylinder block
2A•20 SOHC engines
29.9a Make up wooden blocks to fit the 29.9b . . . which will support the engine 29.10 Unscrew the front crossmember
front suspension turrets and support a securing bolts
metal bar . . .
as a lever before resting it on the wooden
3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
3 Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a blocks.
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
new seal using a suitable metal tube or 10 Support the front crossmember with a
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into trolley jack, then unscrew the bolts securing
4 Drain the engine oil into a container.
the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean the crossmember to the underbody (see
5 Remove the starter motor, if necessary.
engine oil. illustration).
6 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
4 Refit the engine adapter plate and the 11 Lower the crossmember just enough to
securing the engine mountings to the
flywheel/driveplate. give sufficient clearance to remove the sump
crossmember.
(see illustrations).
7 Working in the engine compartment,
12 Unscrew the twenty-three securing bolts
unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate
29 Sump - removal and refitting and withdraw the sump (see illustration). If
shaft to the steering column, swivel the clamp
the sump is stuck, carefully tap it sideways to
plate to one side, and disconnect the
free it. Do not prise between the mating faces.
intermediate shaft.
Note: New gaskets and sealing strips will be Note that if the engine has been removed, it is
8 Where applicable, detach the brake lines
required for refitting, and sealing compound preferable to keep the engine upright until the
from the crossmember.
will be required to coat the gasket faces. sump has been removed to prevent sludge
9 Support the engine using a hoist, or a bar
from entering the engine internals.
and blocks of wood resting on the suspension
Removal
13 Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.
turrets (see illustrations). Attach the lifting
1 If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
14 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
tackle to the engine lifting brackets on the
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 12.
cylinder block and sump.
cylinder head. If using a support bar, the
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
engine may be lifted slightly by using the bar
Refitting
15 Commence refitting by applying sealing
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to
the corners of the front and rear rubber
sealing strip locations in the cylinder block,
then press the sealing strips into the grooves
in the rear main bearing cap and the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustrations).
16 Apply a little sealing compound to the
mating face of the cylinder block, then place
the sump gaskets in position, ensuring that
the end tabs locate correctly beneath the
rubber sealing strips (see illustration).
29.11a Lower the suspension . . . 29.11b . . . to give sufficient clearance for 17 Locate the sump on the gaskets and
sump removal loosely fit the securing bolts.
29.12 Unscrew the securing bolts and 29.15a Apply sealing compound . . . 29.15b . . . then fit the rubber sealing strips
withdraw the sump
SOHC engines 2A•21
29.16 Locate the sump gasket end tabs 29.18 Sump bolt tightening sequence - 30.2 Unscrewing the oil pick-up tube
beneath the rubber sealing strips refer to text securing bolt
tighten to the specified torque.
25 Refit the starter motor.
26 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
27 Ensure that the sump drain plug is fitted,
then fill the engine with the correct quantity
and grade of oil. If necessary, renew the oil
filter before filling the engine with oil.
28 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
29 Start the engine and check for leaks
around the sump, and where applicable the oil
filter. When the engine is started, there may
be a delay in the extinguishing of the oil
pressure warning lamp while the system
pressurises.
30.3 Unscrewing an oil pump securing bolt 30.4 Withdrawing the oil pump driveshaft
30 Run the engine for twenty minutes then
2A
stop the engine and tighten the sump bolts to
it is fitted (see illustration). The driveshaft
18 Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence the third stage given in the Specifications,
engages with the lower end of the distributor
(see illustration) noting the two stages given starting at the point “A” shown and working
driveshaft.
in the Specifications. Tighten to the first stage clockwise.
in a clockwise sequence starting at point “A”, 5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil
31 Check the oil level.
then tighten to the second stage in a pump and cylinder block.
32 Dispose of any old engine oil safely. Do
clockwise sequence starting at point “B”. not pour it down a drain - this is illegal and
Refitting
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has causes pollution.
6 Commence refitting by inserting the oil
been running for twenty minutes.
pump driveshaft into the cylinder block in its
19 If the engine is in the vehicle proceed as
30 Oil pump - removal and previously noted position.
follows.
refitting 7 Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
20 Carefully lift the crossmember with the
turning it by hand.
jack, then refit the securing bolts and tighten
8 Fit the pump, insert the securing bolts, and
to the specified torque.
Removal tighten them to the specified torque.
21 Withdraw the jack, then lower the engine
1 Remove the sump. 9 Fit the pick-up tube securing bolt and
and remove the lifting tackle.
2 Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube tighten it.
22 Where applicable, refit the brake lines to
and strainer to the cylinder block (see 10 Refit the sump.
the crossmember.
illustration).
23 Ensure that the front wheels are pointing
3 Using a suitable splined socket, unscrew
straight ahead and that the steering wheel is 31 Oil pump - dismantling,
the two securing bolts and withdraw the oil
centred, then reconnect the intermediate shaft
inspection and reassembly
pump and strainer (see illustration).
to the steering column. Secure the clamp
4 If desired, the hexagon-shaped driveshaft
plate with the bolt.
Note: A new pressure relief valve plug and
can be withdrawn, but note which way round
24 Refit the engine mounting bolts and
pick-up tube gasket will be required for
reassembly.
Dismantling
31.3 Exploded view of the oil pump
1 If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
A Body
of a new pump. Examine the pump as
B Outer rotor
described in this Section and then decide
C Inner rotor
whether renewal or repair is the best course of
D Cover
action.
E Strainer
2 Unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer.
F Pick-up tube
Recover the gasket.
G Gasket
3 Unscrew the three securing bolts and
H Pressure relief valve
remove the oil pump cover (see illustration).
2A•22 SOHC engines
31.10a Checking the oil pump outer rotor- 31.10b Checking the oil pump inner-to- 31.11 Checking the oil pump rotor endfloat
to-body clearance outer rotor clearance
4 Mark the rotor faces so that the rotors can 16 Prime the pump before refitting. 10 Fit a piston ring compressor to No 1
piston, then insert the piston and connecting
be refitted in their original positions, then lift
rod into No 1 cylinder (see illustration). With
the rotors from the pump body.
32 Pistons and connecting rods No 1 crankpin at its lowest point, drive the
5 Remove the pressure relief valve plug by
- removal and refitting piston carefully into the cylinder with the
piercing it with a punch and levering it out,
wooden handle of a hammer, and at the same
then withdraw the spring and plunger.
time guide the connecting rod onto the
6 Thoroughly clean all parts in petrol or
Removal crankpin. Make sure that the arrow on the
paraffin and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head. piston crown is facing the front of the engine.
Reassembly and inspection 2 Check the big-end bearing caps for 11 Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end
identification marks and if necessary use a bearing cap in its previously noted position,
7 Commence reassembly by lubricating the
centre-punch to identify the caps and and tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and spring.
corresponding connecting rods (see 12 Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
8 Fit a new relief valve plug, flat side
illustration). 13 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
outwards and seat it with a drift until it is flush
11 to 13 inclusive on the remaining pistons.
3 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
with the pick-up mating face.
14 Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts and
9 Lubricate the rotors and fit them. Note the
tap off the bearing cap. Keep the bearing
marks made when dismantling, if applicable.
shells in the cap and connecting rod.
10 The necessary clearances may now be
33 Pistons and connecting rods
4 Using the handle of a hammer, push the
checked using a machined straight edge (a
- examination and renovation
piston and connecting rod up the bore and
good steel rule) and a set of feeler blades. The
critical clearances are between the lobes of withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
1 Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring,
the centre rotor and convex faces of the outer Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod.
and scratches. Check the connecting rods for
rotor; between the outer and pump body; and 5 Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and
wear and damage. The connecting rods carry
between both rotors and the end cover plate 4 on No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
a letter indicating their weight class; all the
(endfloat). The desired clearances are given in turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
rods fitted must be of the same class.
the Specifications (see illustrations). repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
2 The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in
11 Endfloat can be measured by placing a and connecting rods.
the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to
straight edge across the pump body and
Refitting be fitted to the existing connecting rods, the
measuring the clearance between the two
work should be carried out by a Ford dealer
rotors and the straight edge using feeler 6 Commence refitting as follows.
who will have the necessary tooling. Note that
blades (see illustration). 7 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
12 New rotors are only available as a pair. If the oil splash hole in the connecting rod must
the recesses in the connecting rods and big-
the rotor-to-body clearance is excessive, a be located on the right-hand side of the piston
end caps.
complete new pump should be fitted. (the arrow on the piston crown faces forwards).
8 Press the bearing shells into the connecting
13 Refit the pump cover and tighten the 3 If new rings are to be fitted to the existing
rods and caps in their correct positions and oil
securing bolts. them liberally. Note that the lugs in pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
14 Fit the pick-up tube and strainer, using a corresponding shells must be adjacent to the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
new gasket. each other (see illustration). blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
15 Temporarily insert the driveshaft into the 9 Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil
pump and make sure that the rotors turn freely. engine oil. control ring is in three sections.
32.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod 32.8 The bearing shell lugs (arrowed) must 32.10 Fitting a piston ring compressor
identification numbers be adjacent to each other
SOHC engines 2A•23
4 Remove the oil pump and pick-up tube. 16 Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
5 Check the main bearing caps for bearing cap.
identification marks and if necessary use a 17 Apply a little grease to each side of the
centre-punch to identify them (see centre main bearing so as to retain the
illustration). thrustwashers.
6 Before removing the crankshaft, check that 18 Fit the upper halves of the thrustwashers
the endfloat is within the specified limits by into their grooves either side of the main
inserting a feeler blade between the centre bearing. The slots must face outwards.
crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see 19 Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
illustration). This will indicate whether or not upper and lower main bearing shells with
new thrustwashers are required. clean engine oil and locate the rear oil seal
7 Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main (with lip lubricated) on the rear of the
bearing caps complete with bearing shells. If crankshaft.
33.4 Checking a piston ring gap at the top the thrustwashers are to be re-used identify 20 Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
of the cylinder bore them for location. Recover the sealing wedges crankcase.
from either side of the rear bearing cap. 21 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
4 Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
8 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and journals again, and then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
insert them into the cylinder bore and use a
remove the rear oil seal. Recover the the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.
feeler blade to check that the end gaps are
remaining thrustwashers (see illustration). 22 Make sure that the mating faces are
within the specified limits (see illustration).
9 Extract the bearing shells, keeping them clean, then apply sealant (Loctite 518 or
5 Clean out the piston ring groove using a
identified for location (see illustration). equivalent) to the areas on the rear main
piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Be
bearing cap shown (see illustration).
careful not to scratch the aluminium surface Refitting 23 Fit the rear main bearing cap. Fit the two
of the pistons. Protect your fingers - piston
10 Commence refitting as follows. securing bolts but as before do not tighten yet.
ring edges are sharp.
11 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the 24 Apply a little grease to either side of the
6 Fit the oil control ring sections with the
crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag. centre main bearing cap so as to retain the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of the
12 Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft, thrustwashers. Fit the thrustwashers with the
piston. The side ring gaps should be 25 mm (1.0
non-fluffy rag. tag located in the groove and the slots facing
in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
13 If the old main bearing shells are to be outwards (see illustration).
tapered lower compression ring with the “TOP”
renewed (not to do so is a false economy, 25 Fit the centre main bearing cap and the
mark towards the top of the piston and the gap
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper two securing bolts, then refit the intermediate
150º from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their main bearing caps. Make sure that the arrows
compression ring with the gap 150º on the
2A
location in the crankcase. point towards the front of the engine.
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
14 Identify each main bearing cap and place 26 Lightly tighten all main bearing cap
compression rings are coated with a
in order. The number is cast on to the cap and securing bolts and then fully tighten in a
molybdenum skin which must not be damaged.
on intermediate caps an arrow is marked progressive manner to the specified torque
Note also that the compression rings are made
which points towards the front of the engine. wrench setting.
of cast iron, and will snap if expanded too far.
15 Wipe each cap bearing shell location with 27 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
a soft non-fluffy rag. Some stiffness is to be expected with new
34 Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting
Removal
1 With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing belt, crankshaft sprocket,
auxiliary shaft sprocket and the
flywheel/driveplate.
2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3 Unbolt the crankshaft front oil seal housing
34.5 Main bearing cap identification marks. 34.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat
and the auxiliary shaft front cover and remove
The arrow points to the front of the engine
the gasket.
34.8 Removing a thrustwasher from the 34.9 Extract each main bearing shell 34.22 Coat the arrowed areas of the rear
centre main bearing main bearing cap with sealant
2A•24 SOHC engines
34.24 Fitting a thrustwasher to the centre 34.29 Fitting a sealing wedge to the rear 35.5 Checking the width of the filament
main bearing cap main bearing cap against the scale of the packet
the new rings to bed in.
4 If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
components, but there must be no tight spots
5 If there is a ridge at the top of the bore and
maximum specified amount, new
or binding.
28 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is new piston rings are being fitted, either the
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler top piston ring must be stepped (“ridge
main bearings. These are usually supplied
blade between the centre crankshaft web and dodger” pattern) or the ridge must be
together with the main and big-end bearings
the thrustwashers. on a reground crankshaft. removed with a ridge reamer. If the ridge is
29 Make sure that the rear oil seal is fully 5 An accurate method of determining bearing left, the piston ring may hit it and break.
located onto its seating. Coat the rear main wear is by the use of Plastigage. The 6 Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
bearing cap sealing wedges with sealing crankshaft is located in the main bearings cylinder block for cracks and damage and use
compound, then press them into position (and big-end bearings if necessary) and the a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
using a blunt screwdriver with the rounded Plastigage filament located across the journal waterways to ensure that they are
red face towards the cap (see illustration). which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and unobstructed.
30 Refit the oil pump and pick-up tube. the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
31 Refit the crankshaft front oil seal housing torque. On removal of the cap the width of the 37 Initial start-up after overhaul or
and the auxiliary shaft front cover using a new filaments is checked against a scale which
major repair
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts. Smear
shows the bearing running clearance. This
the lip of the oil seal with clean engine oil
clearance is then compared with that given in
before fitting; and using a straight edge, ensure 1 Make a final check to ensure that
the Specifications (see illustration).
that the bottom face of the oil seal housing is everything has been reconnected to the
6 If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder engine and that no rags or tools have been left
crankshaft requires renewal, extract it with a
block before finally tightening the bolts. in the engine bay.
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy
32 Refit the pistons and connecting rods. 2 Check that oil and coolant levels are
grease and use a close fitting metal dowel
33 Refit the flywheel/driveplate and the correct.
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
auxiliary shaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket, 3 Start the engine. This may take a little
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
and timing belt. longer than usual as fuel is pumped up to the
metal drift.
engine.
35 Crankshaft and bearings - 4 Check that the oil pressure light goes out
36 Cylinder block and bores - when the engine starts.
examination and renovation
examination and renovation 5 Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel or coolant. Also check
1 Examine the bearing surfaces of the
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
1 The cylinder bores must be examined for
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
unions, where applicable. Some smoke and
taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by
a micrometer, check each journal and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
examining the top of the bores; if these are
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
other components.
the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is
crankshaft will have to be reground and
6 Bring the engine to normal operating
excessive, the engine will have had a high oil
undersize bearings fitted.
temperature, then check the ignition timing
consumption rate accompanied by blue
2 Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
and the idle speed (where applicable) and
smoke from the exhaust.
by a suitable engineering works, who will
mixture.
2 If available, use an inside dial gauge to
normally supply the matching undersize main
7 If splined type cylinder head bolts have
measure the bore diameter just below the
and big-end shell bearings.
been used, stop the engine after it has been
ridge and compare it with the diameter at the
3 Note that undersize bearings may already
running for 15 minutes, then remove the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
have been fitted, either in production or by a
crankshaft cover and tighten the cylinder
wear. If the difference is more than 0.152 mm
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
head bolts to the fourth stage given in the
(0.006 in), the cylinders will normally require
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
Specifications, in the correct order.
reboring with new oversize pistons fitted.
take them along when buying new ones.
8 When the engine has completely cooled,
3 Proprietary oil control rings can be obtained
Production undersizes are also indicated by
re-check the oil and coolant levels, and
for fitting to the existing pistons if it is felt that
paint marks as follows:
check, and if necessary adjust, the valve
the degree of wear does not justify a rebore.
White line on main bearing cap - parent bore
clearances.
However, any improvement brought about by
0.40 mm oversize
9 If new bearings, pistons etc have been
such rings may be short-lived.
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced
4 If new pistons or piston rings are to be fitted
- main bearing journals 0.25 mm
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
to old bores, deglaze the bores with abrasive
undersize
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
paper or a “glaze buster” tool. The object is to
Green spot on counterweight - big-end
oil and filter after this mileage.
produce a light cross-hatch pattern to assist
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize
DOHC engine 2B•3
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 104 66 to 77
Connecting rod (big-end bearing cap) bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 17 11 to 13
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 85º
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 58 33 to 43
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 80º
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 63 41 to 46
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 to 92 61 to 68
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Oil pump sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 19 12 to 14
Oil pump chain tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 10
Sump bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7
Sump studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Sump front mounting plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 28 17 to 21
Oil baffle nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15
Oil pick-up pipe-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10
Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 22 13 to 16
Cylinder head bolts:
M11 bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 to 39 27 to 29
Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6
Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 26 16 to 19
2B
Lower timing chain guide upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 10
Lower timing chain guide lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 28 18 to 21
Upper and lower timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
Engine-to-gearbox/transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
3 Major operations possible with
which draws oil through a strainer located
1 General information
the engine in the vehicle
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries, from
The following operations can be carried out
The 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead where it is distributed to the crankshaft and
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
Camshaft) engine was introduced in August
camshafts. The big-end bearings are supplied a) Removal of the camshafts.
1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine
with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft. b) Removal and servicing of the cylinder head
used previously in the Sierra range. The
The undersides of the pistons are supplied c) Removal of the timing chain and
engine is of four-cylinder, in-line type.
sprockets.
with oil from drillings in the connecting rods.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
d) Removal of the oil pump.
The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
e) Removal of the sump.
oil from passages in the cylinder head. The
centre main bearing in order to control
f) Removal of the pistons and connecting
camshafts are lubricated by oil from spray
crankshaft endfloat. rods.
The camshafts are driven by a chain from tubes mounted above the camshaft bearing g) Removal of the big-end bearings.
the crankshaft, and operate the angled valves caps. h) Removal of the engine mountings
via hydraulic cam followers. One camshaft i) Removal of the clutch and flywheel.
A closed crankcase ventilation system is
operates the inlet valves, and the other j) Removal of the crankshaft front and rear
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
operates the exhaust valves. The operation of oil seals.
drawn from the crankcase, through a breather
the cam followers is explained in Chapter 2,
pipe into the inlet manifold, where they are
Part C, but note that no rollers are fitted and 4 Major operations requiring
burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture.
the base of each cam follower is in direct engine removal
contact with the cam profile.
2 Crankcase ventilation system -
The distributor is driven directly from the The following operation can only be carried out
inspection and maintenance
front of the inlet camshaft, and the oil pump is after removing the engine from the vehicle:
driven by a chain from the crankshaft. An a) Removal of the crankshaft and main
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank. Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35. bearings.
2B•4 DOHC engine
5.5 Removing the hose support bracket 5.22 Earth strap position on top engine-to- 5.29 Removing the lower steering column
bolt from the cylinder head gearbox (arrowed) clamp bolt
14 On fuel injection models, disconnect the engine compartment. Note the location of the
5 Engine - removal leaving vacuum pipes from the MAP sensor (located bolts, and note the positions of the earth strap
at the rear right-hand side of the engine and any wiring clips attached to the bolts (see
manual gearbox in vehicle
compartment) and, where applicable, from the illustration).
air conditioning system. 23 Unscrew the securing bolt, and
Warning: Vehicles equipped 15 On carburettor models, disconnect the disconnect the earth lead from the rear left-
with air conditioning: fuel supply and return hoses at the hand side of the cylinder head.
Components of the air carburettor, and plug the ends of the hoses to 24 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
conditioning system may minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
obstruct work being undertaken precautions. 25 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
on the engine and it is not always possible 16 On fuel injection models, slowly loosen the vehicle and support it securely on axle
to unbolt and move them aside
the fuel feed union at the fuel rail, to relieve stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
sufficiently, within the limits of their
the pressure in the fuel system before 26 Drain the engine oil into a suitable
flexible connecting pipes. In such a case,
disconnecting the union. Be prepared for container.
the system should be discharged by a
petrol spillage, and take adequate fire 27 Remove the starter motor.
Ford dealer or air conditioning specialist.
precautions. Disconnect the fuel feed hose, 28 Remove the exhaust downpipe.
The refrigerant is harmless under normal
and disconnect the fuel return hose from the 29 Ensure that the steering wheel is
conditions but in the presence of a naked
fuel pressure regulator. Plug the ends of the positioned in the straight-ahead position, then
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a
hoses to minimise petrol spillage. remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
17 Disconnect the throttle cable and move it column clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
to one side. disconnect the lower steering column from the
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them
18 Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition lower flexible coupling (see illustration).
with a diluted solution of boric acid and
coil, and unclip it from the timing chain cover. 30 Working inside the vehicle, place a wooden
seek medical advice immediately.
19 Disconnect the wiring from the following block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be components as applicable, depending on against its stop, so holding the automatic
required. model: adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant.
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Alternator. 31 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
2 Remove the bonnet. Starter motor. clutch release arm, and pass the cable
3 On carburettor models, remove the air Oil pressure warning lamp switch. through the bellhousing.
cleaner. Temperature gauge sender. 32 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
4 On fuel injection models, remove the air Cooling fan switch. using a block of wood between the jack and
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner Anti-dieselling valve (carburettor models). the gearbox to spread the load.
lid as an assembly. Automatic choke heater (carburettor models). 33 Unscrew and remove the remaining
5 Disconnect the breather hose from the Engine coolant temperature sensor. engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
camshaft cover, and unscrew the bolt securing Crankshaft speed/position sensor. from the engine adapter plate (see
the hose support bracket to the left-hand side Air charge temperature sensor. illustration). Recover any shims fitted
of the cylinder head (see illustration). Throttle position sensor. between the sump and the gearbox when
6 Drain the cooling system. Fuel temperature sensor. removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
7 To provide additional working space, Fuel injectors.
remove the radiator. 20 On models fitted with power steering,
8 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the unbolt the power steering pump from its
coolant pump housing on the left-hand side of mounting bracket and move it clear of the
the engine. engine. Note that there is no need to
9 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the disconnect the fluid hoses, but make sure that
thermostat housing.
the pump is adequately supported to avoid
10 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
straining them.
the inlet manifold.
21 On models fitted with air conditioning,
11 Where applicable, release the coolant
unbolt the air conditioning compressor from
hose from the bracket under the carburettor
its mounting bracket, and move it clear of the
automatic choke housing.
engine. Do not disconnect the hoses; make
12 On carburettor models, disconnect the
sure that the compressor is adequately
vacuum pipe from the engine management
supported to avoid straining them.
module.
22 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to- 5.33 Engine adapter plate bolt (arrowed)
13 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
from the inlet manifold.
DOHC engine 2B•5
5.36 Remove the engine mounting 5.37 Removing a brake line securing clip 5.38 Removing a suspension crossmember
brackets to improve clearance from the suspension crossmember securing bolt
34 Make a final check to ensure that all
6 Engine - removal leaving 7 Engine/manual gearbox
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal. automatic transmission in assembly - removal and
35 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting vehicle separation
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
the engine. Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
36 To improve clearance in the engine and lifting tackle will be required for this
and lifting tackle will be required for this
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt operation.
operation.
the engine mounting brackets from the 1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
Removal
cylinder block, and remove them (see of Section 5.
illustration). 1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
37 Detach the brake lines from the front of Section 5.
transmission bolts which are accessible from
2 Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
suspension crossmember (see illustration). the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
38 Support the crossmember with a jack (do the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
2B
the cylinder head.
not remove the jack from under the gearbox), transmission dipstick tube bracket, as
3 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
applicable.
then loosen the bolts securing the
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
3 Proceed as described in paragraphs 23 to 29
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
4 Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
of Section 5.
bolts from one side (see illustration), and
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
4 Where applicable, remove the bolt securing
carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently
Support”).
the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the left-
to allow the sump to clear the steering rack
Ensure that there is enough working room
hand side of the cylinder block.
and crossmember when pulling the engine
beneath the vehicle.
5 Working through the starter motor aperture,
forwards from the gearbox.
5 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
39 Gently raise the engine, then pull it
downpipe from the manifold, and remove the
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox.
exhaust system.
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
Ensure that the gearbox is adequately
6 Drain the engine oil into a suitable
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
supported, and take care not to strain the
container.
to each bolt in turn through the aperture.
gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to
7 On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
6 Support the transmission with a trolley jack,
rock the engine a little to release it from the
release the securing clips, and withdraw the
using a block of wood between the jack and
gearbox.
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
the transmission to spread the load.
40 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
access to the propeller shaft.
7 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage 8 Remove the propeller shaft.
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
the components in the engine compartment 9 Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
from the engine adapter plate. Recover any
(see illustration). then unscrew the two bolts in each case
shims fitted between the sump and the
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
transmission when removing the lower engine-
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
to-transmission bolts. Where applicable, pull
far as possible.
the blanking plug from the adapter plate.
10 Working inside the vehicle, place a
8 Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 38
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
of Section 5.
it fully against its stop, so holding the
9 Gently raise the engine, then pull the engine
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
forwards to disconnect it from the
quadrant.
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
11 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
is held firmly in place in the transmission
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in
through the bellhousing.
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
12 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
using a block of wood between the jack and
it from the transmission.
the gearbox to spread the load.
10 Once clear of the transmission, lift the
13 Unscrew the four nuts securing the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
damage the components in the engine
5.40 Lifting the engine from the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
compartment.
2B•6 DOHC engine
the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove Separation transmission crossmember to the vehicle
the crossmember. Note the position of the underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
28 To separate the engine from the gearbox,
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the the crossmember to the transmission, and
proceed as follows.
mounting cup, and where applicable the remove the crossmember. Note the position
29 Remove the starter motor.
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield. of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover
30 Support the engine and gearbox
14 Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack, the mounting cup, and where applicable, the
horizontally on blocks of wood.
then remove the securing circlip, and exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
31 Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts,
disconnect the speedometer drive cable from 12 Lower the transmission slightly on the
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
the gearbox. jack.
positions of the earth strap and any wiring
15 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims 13 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
lamp switch. On models with fuel injection, fitted between the sump and the gearbox fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed when removing the lower engine-to-gearbox the open ends of the pipes and the
sensor mounted in the side of the gearbox. bolts. transmission, to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
16 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and 32 Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter leakage. Where applicable, detach the fluid
disconnect the gear linkage support bracket plate. cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting
from the gearbox. 33 Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking bracket, and move it to one side.
17 Using a suitable pin punch, drive out the care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It 14 Remove the two clips securing the
roll-pin securing the gearchange rod to the may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
selector rod, and detach the selector rod from
gear linkage. separate them.
the manual selector lever, and from the
18 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
selector lever on the transmission.
brackets located at the front and rear of the
8 Engine/automatic 15 Disconnect the wiring from the starter
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
transmission assembly -
the engine. Arrange the lifting tackle so that inhibitor switch, kickdown solenoid, lock-up
removal and separation
the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a clutch, reversing lamp switch, and where
steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is applicable, the 3rd/4th gearchange solenoid.
being removed. 16 Remove the securing screw, and
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
19 To improve clearance in the engine Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist disconnect the speedometer cable from the
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt and lifting tackle will be required for this transmission extension housing. Plug the
the engine mounting brackets from the operation. Any suspected faults in the opening in the transmission to prevent dirt
cylinder block, and remove them. automatic transmission should be referred to a ingress.
20 Ensure that the steering wheel is Ford dealer or automatic transmission 17 Proceed as described in paragraphs 18 to
positioned in the straight-ahead position, then specialist before removal of unit, as the 27 of Section 7, substituting transmission for
remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering specialist fault diagnosis equipment is gearbox, and ignoring paragraph 25.
column clamp, swivel the plate to one side, designed to operate with the transmission in
and disconnect the lower steering column Separation
the vehicle.
from the lower flexible coupling.
18 To separate the engine from the
Removal
21 Detach the brake lines from the front
transmission, proceed as follows.
suspension crossmember. 1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
19 Remove the starter motor.
22 Support the crossmember with a jack (do of Section 5.
20 Support the engine and transmission
not remove the jack from under the gearbox), 2 Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
horizontally on blocks of wood.
then loosen the bolts securing the the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
21 Working through the starter motor
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the the cylinder head.
aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
crossmember securing bolts, and carefully 3 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
the engine sump to clear the steering rack and 4 Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
crossmember as the engine/gearbox on axle stands. (see “Jacking and Vehicle
assembly is removed. to each nut in turn through the aperture.
Support”).
23 Make a final check to ensure that all Ensure that there is enough working room 22 Where applicable, remove the bolt
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been beneath the vehicle. securing the transmission fluid dipstick tube
disconnected to facilitate removal of the en- 5 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust to the left-hand side of the cylinder block.
gine/gearbox assembly. downpipe from the manifold, and remove the 23 Unscrew the engine-to-transmission
24 Raise the engine/gearbox, at the same exhaust system. bolts, noting the locations of the bolts, and
time lowering the trolley jack which is 6 Drain the engine oil into a suitable the positions of the earth strap and any wiring
supporting the gearbox. container. clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims
25 Place a suitable rod across the vehicle 7 On models fitted with a catalytic converter, fitted between the sump and the transmission
underbody to support the gear linkage release the securing clips and withdraw the when removing the lower engine-to-
support bracket whilst the gearbox is exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
transmission bolts.
removed. access to the propeller shaft.
24 Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
26 Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly using 8 Remove the propeller shaft.
plate and, where applicable, pull the blanking
the hoist and the trolley jack, until the 9 Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
plug from the adapter plate.
assembly can be lifted from the vehicle. Take then unscrew the two bolts in each case
25 Pull the engine and the transmission
care not to damage surrounding components. securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
apart, ensuring that the torque converter is
27 If the vehicle is to be moved while the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
held firmly in place in the transmission
engine/gearbox assembly is removed, far as possible.
housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in
temporarily refit the suspension crossmember 10 Support the transmission with a trolley
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
and the anti-roll bar to the underbody, and jack, using a block of wood between the jack
necessary to rock the units slightly to
reconnect the steering column to the and the transmission to spread the load.
separate them.
intermediate shaft. 11 Unscrew the four bolts securing the
DOHC engine 2B•7
5 As the engine is installed, guide the torque
12 Engine/automatic
9 Engine - refitting (manual converter studs through the holes in the
transmission assembly -
gearbox in vehicle) driveplate. When the engine is positioned
flush with the engine adapter plate and the reconnection and refitting
transmission housing, check that the torque
1 Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 40, Section 5, noting the converter is free to move axially a small 1 Reverse the procedure described in
following points. amount before refitting and tightening the paragraphs 1 to 25 of Section 8, noting the
2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check following points.
engine-to-transmission bolts.
that the clutch friction disc is centralised. 2 Check that the engine adapter plate is
6 Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
3 Check that the clutch release arm and correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
transmission bolts have been fitted and
the input shaft splines. temporarily secure the adapter plate in
tightened.
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is position on the cylinder block, using one of
7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If the engine-to-transmission bolt holes.
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to 3 As the torque converter is only loosely
position before reconnecting the lower
temporarily secure the adapter plate in engaged in the transmission, care must be
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
position on the cylinder block using one of the taken to prevent the torque converter from
8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
engine-to-gearbox bolt holes. falling out forwards. When the torque
quantity of oil.
5 If shims were fitted between the sump and converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
9 Check the throttle cable adjustment.
the gearbox, refit them in their original pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
locations when mating the engine to the 10 Fill the cooling system. “A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled, 11 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque, as specified. Incorrect installation of the
where applicable fit the relevant shims as torque converter will result in damage to the
where applicable.
calculated during engine reassembly. transmission.
6 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release 4 If shims were fitted between the sump and
11 Engine/manual gearbox
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during the transmission, refit them in their original
assembly - reconnection and
removal. locations when mating the engine to the
refitting
7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the transmission. If the engine has been
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant
position before reconnecting the lower shims as calculated during engine
1 Reverse the procedure described in
2B
steering column to the intermediate shaft, and reassembly.
paragraphs 1 to 33 of Section 7, noting the
tighten the clamp bolt to the specified torque. 5 As the engine and transmission are mated
following points.
8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and together, guide the torque converter studs
2 Before attempting to reconnect the engine
quantity of oil. through the holes in the driveplate. When the
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
9 Check the throttle cable adjustment. engine is positioned flush with the engine
disc is centralised.
10 Fill the cooling system. adapter plate and the transmission housing,
3 Check that the clutch release arm and
11 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque, check that the torque converter is free to
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
where applicable. move axially a small amount before refitting
the input shaft splines. and tightening the engine-to-transmission
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is bolts.
10 Engine - refitting (automatic correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If 6 Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
transmission in vehicle) necessary, a cable-tie can be used to driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
temporarily secure the adapter plate in transmission bolts have been fitted and
1 Reverse the procedure in paragraphs 1 to tightened.
position on the cylinder block, using one of
10 of Section 6, noting the following points. 7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the
the engine-to-gearbox bolt holes.
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
5 If shims were fitted between the sump and
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If position before reconnecting the lower
the gearbox, refit them in their original
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to steering column to the intermediate shaft.
locations when mating the engine to the
temporarily secure the adapter plate in 8 Reconnect the selector rod and check for
gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled,
position on the cylinder block, using one of correct adjustment.
where applicable fit the relevant shims as
the engine-to-transmission bolt holes. 9 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
calculated during engine reassembly.
3 As the torque converter is only loosely quantity of oil.
engaged in the transmission, care must be 6 Ensure that the roadwheels and the 10 Check the throttle cable adjustment.
taken to prevent the torque converter from steering wheel are in the straight-ahead 11 Fill the cooling system.
falling out forwards. When the torque position before reconnecting the lower 12 Check and if necessary top-up the
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid steering column to the intermediate shaft. transmission fluid level.
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance 7 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release 13 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be where applicable.
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
removal.
torque converter will result in damage to the
8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
transmission. 13 Engine mountings - renewal
quantity of oil.
4 If shims were fitted between the sump and
9 Check the throttle cable adjustment.
the transmission, refit them in their original
10 Fill the cooling system.
locations when mating the engine to the Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part C,
11 Check and if necessary top-up the
transmission. If the engine has been but note that on certain models it may be
gearbox oil level.
overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant necessary to unbolt the engine mounting
12 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
shims as calculated during engine brackets from the cylinder block to allow
reassembly. where applicable. sufficient clearance to remove the mountings.
2B•8 DOHC engine
14 Engine dismantling,
examination, renovation and
reassembly - general information
Dismantling
1 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Section 18,
paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.
2 A suitable selection of splined and Torx
sockets will be required to remove many of
the bolts when dismantling the engine.
3 Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following externally-
mounted ancillary components can be
removed, with reference to the relevant
Chapters of this Manual and the relevant
Sections of this Chapter, where applicable.
Inlet manifold (and carburettor, if applicable)
Exhaust manifold
Alternator.
Coolant pump, and thermostat
Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt tensioner
Distributor cap, HT leads and spark plugs
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
Oil filter
Dipstick
Engine mounting brackets (if not already done)
Crankcase ventilation pipe and hoses
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket.
Air conditioning compressor mounting
bracket (where applicable).
Engine lifting brackets.
Examination and renovation
4 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Section 18, but
15.2 Timing chain, oil pump drive chain and associated components
note that the connecting rod bolts should be
renewed on reassembly, and when renewing 1 Upper timing chain guide 10 Oil pressure relief valve
the cylinder head bolts, the latest type bolts 2 Exhaust camshaft sprocket 11 Oil passage to timing chain tensioner
with hexagonal heads should always be used. 3 Timing chain plunger
4 Lower timing chain guide 12 Plug
Reassembly
5 Crankshaft sprocket (double) 13 Timing chain tensioner plunger
5 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part A, 6 Crankshaft 14 Timing chain tensioner sprocket
Section 18, noting the following:
7 Oil pump chain tensioner 15 Timing chain tensioner arm
6 If they have been removed, new cylinder
16 Inlet camshaft sprocket
8 Oil pump drive chain
head bolts (both M11 and M8, of the latest
17 Copper chain links
9 Oil pump
type with hexagonal heads), flywheel bolts,
and connecting rod bolts must be used.
the puller must be suitably shaped to enable
c) On carburettor models, remove the air
15 Timing chain and sprockets - cleaner. them to rest on the metal surfaces of the
removal and refitting d) On fuel injection models, remove the air pulley. Do not use a puller on the rubber
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air surface of the pulley (see illustrations).
cleaner lid as an assembly.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
e) Disconnect the breather hose from the
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable puller
camshaft cover.
will be required to remove the crankshaft pulley.
f) Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
A new crankshaft pulley bolt, a new timing chain
and the rotor arm and housing.
tensioner plunger assembly, new upper and
2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 11
lower timing chain cover gaskets, and a new
inclusive of Section 18 (see illustration).
camshaft cover gasket and reinforcing sleeve
3 Remove the alternator drivebelt.
sealing rings, must be used on refitting.
4 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
Removal the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
1 If the engine is in the car, carry out the
assistant press the brake pedal hard, or by
following operations:
removing the starter motor and jamming the
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
ring gear teeth with a lever.
b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It
15.5a Remove the crankshaft pulley using
5 Unscrew the bolt part-way, and use a puller
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
a puller (viewed from under vehicle)
to remove the crankshaft pulley. The legs of
pulley with the radiator in place.
DOHC engine 2B•9
15.5b Position the legs of the puller on the 15.9 Oil pump chain tensioner securing 15.11 Withdrawing the lower timing chain
metal surfaces of the pulley (A), not the screw (arrowed) guide
rubber surface (B)
22 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 34 to 42
6 Loosen the alternator lower mounting coppered links as described during the
through-bolt, then remove the alternator following procedure. If the coppered links are of Section 18 but when fitting the chain over
upper mounting bolt, and swing the alternator not visible, the chain should still be refitted as the camshaft sprockets, align the timing mark
away from the engine. described, but ignore the references to the on each sprocket between the two
7 Unscrew the central securing bolt, and coppered links. corresponding coppered links in the chain.
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly. 15 Make sure that the slot for the Woodruff 23 Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
8 Unscrew the eleven securing bolts, and key in the end of the crankshaft is pointing guide upper securing bolt with a suitable
remove the lower timing chain cover. Recover vertically downwards. If necessary, thread-locking compound, then fit the bolt
the rubber gasket. temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley bolt in and tighten it finger-tight.
9 Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the order to turn the crankshaft to the required 24 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 43 to 46
securing screw, and carefully withdraw the oil position. of Section 18.
pump chain tensioner (see illustration). 16 Lower the timing chain into the timing 25 Tighten the two chain guide securing
10 Unscrew the Torx type securing bolt, and case from above, with the single coppered bolts to the specified torque.
withdraw the oil pump sprocket, complete link at the bottom. If desired, use a cable-tie 26 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 47 to 55
2B
with the oil pump drive chain. to prevent the chain from dropping into the
of Section 18.
11 Unscrew the two lower timing chain guide timing case, as during removal.
27 Fit the oil pump drive chain around the
securing bolts, noting their locations, and 17 Locate the double chain sprocket loosely
outer crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump
withdraw the timing chain guide through the over the end of the crankshaft (larger sprocket
sprocket, then refit the oil pump sprocket, and
top of the timing case (see illustration). nearest the crankcase), with the timing mark
tighten the securing bolt to the specified
12 Remove the Woodruff key from the end of pointing vertically down.
torque. If necessary, a screwdriver can be
the crankshaft, prising it free with a 18 Fit the chain over the inner, larger
inserted through one of the holes in the
screwdriver if necessary, then slide the double sprocket, aligning the coppered link in the
sprocket to prevent it from turning as the
chain sprocket from the end of the crankshaft, chain with the timing mark on the sprocket
securing bolt is tightened.
and lift the chain from the sprocket (see (see illustration).
28 Refit the oil pump drive chain tensioner,
illustration). 19 Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
and tighten the securing bolt to the specified
13 Withdraw the timing chain through the top guide lower securing bolt with a suitable
torque.
of the timing case and, where applicable, thread-locking compound.
29 Refit the Woodruff key to the end of the
remove the cable-tie from the chain (see 20 Introduce the lower timing chain guide
crankshaft.
illustration). through the top of the timing case,
30 Inspect the oil seal in the lower timing
manipulating the chain around the guide as
Refitting chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,
necessary, then fit the chain guide lower
the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
14 Commence refitting as follows. Note that securing bolt and tighten it finger-tight.
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
coppered links are provided in the timing 21 Push the double chain sprocket onto the
seal should be fitted to the cover. If
chain to assist with refitting, but these can be crankshaft, engaging the notch in the
necessary, carefully prise the old oil seal from
difficult to see on a chain which has already sprocket with the groove in the end of the
the cover using a screwdriver. The new seal
been in service. If possible, position the crankshaft.
15.12 Sliding the double chain sprocket 15.13 Withdrawing the timing chain 15.18 Coppered link in timing chain aligned
from the end of the crankshaft through the top of the timing case with crankshaft sprocket timing mark
(arrowed)
2B•10 DOHC engine
should be fitted dry. Drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube, making sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine, and taking
care not to damage the timing chain cover
(see illustration).
31 Fit the lower timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket (see illustration).
32 Loosely refit the timing chain cover
securing bolts.
33 Refit the crankshaft pulley to the end of the
crankshaft, and draw the pulley onto the
crankshaft using the original securing bolt, at the
same time centring the lower timing chain cover.
34 With the lower timing chain cover 15.30 Fitting a new lower timing chain 15.31 Lower timing chain cover rubber
centralised, and the pulley fully home on the
cover oil seal gasket in position. Ensure that lug on
crankshaft, remove the old securing bolt, then
gasket engages with notch in cover
fit a new bolt. 3 Examine the timing chain for wear. If the
(arrowed)
35 Tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt to chain has been in operation for a considerable
the specified torque, in the two stages given time, or if when held horizontally (rollers head complete with the manifolds and fuel
in the Specifications at the beginning of this vertical) it takes on a deeply-bowed rail). If desired, the inlet manifold and the fuel
Chapter. Prevent the crankshaft from turning appearance, renew it. rail can be unbolted and moved to one side,
as during removal. leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
36 Tighten the lower timing chain cover connected, but care must be taken not to
17 Cylinder head - removal and
securing bolts. place any strain on them.
refitting (engine in vehicle)
37 Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly, 10 Unscrew the three securing nuts and
ensuring that the lug on the rear of the disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
tensioner bracket engages with the manifold. It may be necessary to jack up the
Section 5 and the note at the beginning of the
corresponding hole in the cylinder block, and front of the vehicle to gain access to the nuts
following Section before proceeding. The
tighten the securing bolt. (in which case, apply the handbrake and
cylinder head must not be removed when the
38 Swing the alternator into position to align support the front of the vehicle securely on
engine is warm.
the upper mounting bolt hole with the axle stands). Recover the gasket.
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
Removal 11 If the inlet manifold and the fuel rail (where
assembly, then refit the upper mounting bolt, applicable) are to be removed with the
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
and tighten the upper bolt and the lower cylinder head, disconnect all relevant wires,
2 On carburettor models, remove the air
through-bolt. hoses, pipes and cables. Otherwise, unbolt
cleaner.
39 Refit the alternator drivebelt. the manifold and the fuel rail, and move them
3 On fuel injection models, remove the air
40 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
to one side, ensuring that they are adequately
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner
operations described in paragraph 1.
supported. If the fuel rail is unbolted, be
lid as an assembly.
41 If applicable, refill the cooling system.
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
4 Drain the cooling system.
fire precautions.
5 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
16 Timing chain, sprockets and 12 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 19
the inlet manifold (see illustration).
tensioner - examination and of Section 18.
6 Disconnect the breather hose from the
renovation camshaft cover, and unbolt the hose bracket Refitting
from the left-hand side of the cylinder head
13 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 20 to 55
(see illustration).
1 Examine alI the teeth on the camshaft and
of Section 18.
7 Unscrew the securing bolt and disconnect
crankshaft sprockets. If the teeth are “hooked”
14 With the cylinder head refitted, reverse the
the earth lead from the left-hand rear of the
in appearance, renew the sprockets.
procedure described in paragraphs 1 to 11,
cylinder head (see illustration).
2 Examine the chain tensioner plastic
noting the following points.
8 Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
sprocket for wear. If excessive wear is
15 Use a new gasket when reconnecting the
and the rotor arm and housing. If necessary,
evident, the complete tensioner assembly
exhaust downpipe to the manifold.
mark the HT leads to aid refitting.
must be renewed, as the sprocket cannot be
16 Ensure that the HT leads are reconnected
9 The cylinder head can be removed either
renewed independently. Note that the
correctly.
with or without the manifolds and fuel rail,
tensioner plunger assembly must be renewed
17 Fill the cooling system.
where applicable (it is easiest to remove the
whenever the timing chain is removed.
17.5 Disconnecting the heater coolant 17.6 Hose bracket bolted to cylinder head 17.7 Disconnect the earth lead (arrowed)
hose from the inlet manifold (arrowed) from the cylinder head
DOHC engine 2B•11
18.4 Timing mark positions with No 1
cylinder at TDC
18.5 Removing the inlet camshaft sprocket bolt and the distributor
rotor shaft
the top edge of the cylinder head. Timing the chain. Secure the chain using a cable-tie
18 Cylinder head - removal and through two of the chain links, to prevent it
notches are provided in the camshaft
from dropping off the crankshaft sprocket.
sprockets, and corresponding paint marks are
refitting (engine removed)
9 Using a suitable pair of pliers, extract the
provided on the outside edges of the
circlip from the chain tensioner arm pivot pin,
sprockets (see illustration).
Note: New cylinder head bolts, a new cylinder
taking care not to drop it into the timing case,
5 Hold the inlet camshaft sprocket stationary
head gasket, a new timing chain tensioner
then withdraw the pivot pin from the tensioner
using an improvised tool similar to that 2B
plunger assembly, a new upper timing chain
arm (see illustrations). If the pivot pin proves
shown then unscrew the camshaft sprocket
cover gasket, and a new camshaft cover
bolt and remove the distributor rotor shaft difficult to withdraw, an M6 bolt can be
gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings,
(see illustration). screwed into its end to facilitate removal.
must be used on refitting.
6 Repeat the procedure given in the previous 10 Lift the chain tensioner arm from the
Removal paragraph for the exhaust camshaft, but note timing case.
that a spacer is fitted in place of the
1 With the manifolds removed, proceed as
distributor rotor shaft.
follows.
7 Squeeze the upper timing chain guide
2 Unscrew the eleven bolts and four nuts,
securing lugs together, using pliers if
and remove the camshaft cover. Recover the
necessary, and withdraw the guide from the
gasket.
plate at the front of the cylinder head (see
3 Unscrew the four securing bolts and three
illustrations).
studs, and remove the upper timing chain
8 Mark the position of the timing chain in
cover. Note the locations of the studs to aid
relation to the camshaft sprockets, so that the
refitting.
chain can be refitted in precisely its original
4 Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley, position (ie, make alignment marks between
turn the crankshaft to bring No 1 piston to the each sprocket and a corresponding link in the
firing point. With No 1 piston at the firing chain), then slide the camshaft sprockets from
point, the timing marks on the camshaft the camshafts. Withdraw the sprockets and
sprockets should be pointing away from each lay the timing chain over the exhaust side of 18.7a Upper timing chain guide securing
other, and should be approximately level with the timing case, having eliminated the slack in lugs (arrowed)
18.7b Removing the upper timing chain 18.9a Removing the chain tensioner arm 18.9b Withdrawing the pivot pin from the
guide pivot pin circlip chain tensioner arm
2B•12 DOHC engine
18.11 Lifting the chain tensioner plunger 18.13 Lifting off a camshaft oil spray bar 18.14a Lifting off a camshaft bearing cap
assembly from the cylinder head
11 Lift the chain tensioner plunger assembly
from the cylinder head, and discard it (see
illustration).
Warning: Take care when
removing the plunger assembly,
as there is a risk of injury if the
piston flies out.
12 Take note of the markings on the
camshaft bearing caps, then progressively
unscrew the bearing cap securing nuts.
13 Remove the bearing cap securing nuts,
then lift off the camshaft oil spray bars (see
illustration), and the timing chain guide plate. 18.14b Lifting out the exhaust camshaft 18.15 Withdrawing a cam follower
14 Lift off the bearing caps, and then lift out
the two camshafts (see illustrations). Note cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a soft-
that the inlet camshaft is normally identified faced mallet. Do not insert a lever into the joint
by a green paint mark. If necessary, identify between the cylinder head and block, as this
the camshafts so that they can be refitted in may result in damage to the mating faces.
their correct positions. Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
15 Withdraw the cam followers from their prevent damage to the valves.
locations in the cylinder head, keeping them in 19 Recover the gasket, and the locating
order so that they can be refitted in their dowels if they are loose, noting the positions
original locations (see illustration). It is of the locating dowels.
advisable to store the cam followers upright in
Refitting
an oil bath until they are to be refitted. Ensure
that the depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover 20 Commence refitting as follows.
the cam followers. 21 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
18.16 M8 cylinder head bolts (arrowed)
16 Working at the front of the cylinder head, approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
located at front of cylinder head
unscrew the three small M8 cylinder head This precaution will prevent possible contact
bolts which are accessible through the timing between the valves and pistons. 23 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket,
case (see illustration). 22 Make sure that the mating faces of the making sure that the locating dowels engage.
17 Working in the reverse order to that cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly 24 Oil the threads of the new main cylinder
shown for the tightening sequence, clean, then refit the locating dowels (where head bolts, and insert them into their locations
progressively loosen the remaining cylinder applicable) and locate a new gasket over the in the cylinder head.
head bolts and withdraw them from the dowels. Note that the gasket can only fit in 25 Tighten the bolts in the order shown (see
cylinder head. one position (see illustration). Do not use illustrations) in the four stages given in the
18 Lift the cylinder head from the block. If the jointing compound. Specifications.
18.25a Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence
18.22 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket 18.25b Tightening a cylinder head bolt
A Long M8 bolt B Short M8 bolt using an angle gauge
DOHC engine 2B•13
18.26 Use new M8 (auxiliary) cylinder head 18.30a Camshaft bearing cap tightening 18.30b Camshaft oil spray bars correctly
bolts with hexagonal heads (A), not earlier- sequence (see text) fitted
type Torx bolts (B)
1 Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L1 and
R1 by half-a-turn (180º)
26 Insert the three smaller M8 cylinder head 2 Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L5 and
bolts through the top of the timing case and R5 by half-a-turn (180º)
tighten them to the specified torque. Note that 3 Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L3 and
new bolts must be used, and that they should R3 by half-a-turn (180º)
be of the latest type, with hexagonal heads 32 Fit bearing caps L2, L4, R2 and R4, and
(see illustration). tap them into position on the cylinder head
27 Lubricate the cam follower bores in the using light taps from a soft-faced mallet.
cylinder head, and the cam followers Tighten the securing nuts evenly by hand.
themselves, then insert the cam followers into 33 Tighten all the bearing cap nuts to the
their original locations in the cylinder head. specified torque in half-turn stages, using the
28 Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces following sequence:
in the cylinder head, and the bearing caps. 1 L1 and R1 18.30c Fitting the timing chain guide plate
29 Lubricate the surfaces of the camshafts, 2 L5 and R5
2B
then carefully lay the camshafts in their 3 L3 and R3
position. Take care not to damage the
original positions in the cylinder head. 4 L2 and L4
machined surfaces of the camshaft.
Position the camshafts with the slots in their 5 R2 and R4
38 With the sprocket fitted, fit the spacer to
front ends pointing away from each other. 34 Fit a new chain tensioner plunger
the end of the camshaft, and tighten the
30 Fit and tighten the bearing caps L1, L3, assembly to the housing in the cylinder head
securing bolt finger-tight (see illustration).
L5, R1, R3, and R5 in the sequence shown with the piston uppermost. Before fitting the
39 Lay the timing chain over the inlet
(see illustration) then lay the camshaft oil new plunger assembly, take note of the
camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made
spray bars and the timing chain guide plate in position of the piston (see illustration). The
previously on the chain and the sprocket.
position over the studs (see illustrations). assembly is normally supplied with the piston
40 Fit the sprocket to the inlet camshaft, with
31 Carefully tighten the bearing cap securing protruding slightly from the cylinder, or slightly
the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with the
nuts by hand in the following sequence to below the top surface of the cylinder (“A”). If
inlet camshaft sprocket timing mark in line
lower the camshafts into position. Continue to the new assembly is supplied with the piston
with the top edge of the cylinder head,
tighten the nuts in the sequence given, in partially unlatched (“B”), or fully unlatched
pointing to the inlet side of the engine - see
small amounts, until the bearing caps contact with the latching ring visible (“C”), it must not
paragraph 4). Again, turn the camshaft if
the cylinder head. be used (see illustration).
necessary to enable the sprocket to be fitted.
Warning: Take care when 41 With the sprocket fitted, fit the distributor
installing the plunger assembly, rotor shaft to the end of the camshaft, and
as there is a risk of injury if the tighten the securing bolt finger-tight. Note that
piston flies out. it is acceptable for the timing chain to sag
slightly between the two pulleys.
35 Locate the chain tensioner arm in
position, then insert the pivot pin, and secure
it with the circlip. Take care not to drop the
circlip into the timing-case.
36 Release the cable-tie securing the timing
chain (if used), and lay the chain over the
exhaust camshaft sprocket, aligning the
marks made previously on the chain and
sprocket, so that the timing chain is taut on
the exhaust side of the engine.
18.34 Timing chain tensioner plunger 37 Fit the sprocket to the exhaust camshaft,
assembly with the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with
A Piston retracted - plunger assembly the exhaust camshaft sprocket timing mark in
line with the top edge of the cylinder head,
useable
pointing to the exhaust side of the engine -
B Piston partially unlatched - discard plunger
see paragraph 4. If necessary, use a pair of
assembly 18.38 Spacer and sprocket securing bolt
pliers on one of the unmachined sections of
C Latching ring (1) visible - discard plunger fitted to end of camshaft, with camshaft in
the camshaft to turn the camshaft to the TDC
assembly TDC position (timing marks arrowed)
2B•14 DOHC engine
18.53 Upper timing chain cover securing 18.54 Fitting a camshaft cover reinforcing
stud locations (arrowed) sleeve and sealing ring
18.45 Fabricated tool used to unlatch
c) Ignore the reference to inlet valve
50 If the timing marks do not align as
tensioner plunger piston
dampers.
described, the timing chain has been
d) Refer to the following Section if the
incorrectly fitted (probably one chain link
42 Fit a new upper timing chain guide to the
cylinder head is to be inspected and
away from the correct position on one of the
plate at the front of the cylinder head.
renovated.
camshaft sprockets), and the chain should be
43 Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the
removed from the sprockets and refitted
inlet camshaft begins to turn.
again in the correct position as described
44 If the chain tensioner plunger piston 20 Cylinder head - inspection
previously.
protrudes from the cylinder, unlatch the piston
and renovation
51 Inspect the oil seal in the upper timing
by pressing the chain tensioner arm down by
chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,
hand.
1 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, noting the
the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
45 If the plunger piston is below the top
following points:
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
surface of the cylinder, a tool similar to that
a) Valve and valve seat cutting and
seal should be fitted to the cover. If
shown (see illustration) must be fabricated to
regrinding can be carried out using
necessary, carefully prise the old oil seal from
unlatch the piston. It is suggested that a 2.5
conventional tools.
the cover using a screwdriver, and drive in the
mm diameter welding rod is used to
b) The cylinder head cannot be resurfaced,
new seal using a suitable metal tube. Make
manufacture the tool. Use the tool to release
and if the surface distortion exceeds the
sure that the seal lip faces into the engine.
the piston as follows.
specified limits, the cylinder head must be
Take care not to damage the timing chain
46 Carefully lift the chain tensioner arm with
renewed.
cover.
a screwdriver, and insert the tool between the
52 Fit the upper timing chain cover using a
tensioner arm and the piston. Remove the
new rubber gasket. Great care must be taken
screwdriver, and release the piston by 21 Camshafts and cam
to avoid damage to the oil seal when passing
pressing the tensioner arm down by hand.
followers - removal, inspection
the seal over the end of the inlet camshaft.
Carefully withdraw the tool once the piston
and refitting
Careful manipulation will be required (possibly
has been released.
using a thin feeler blade) to avoid damage to
47 Tighten the camshaft sprocket securing
Note: Once the timing chain has been
the oil seal sealing lip. Note that the oil seal
bolts to the specified torque, holding the
removed from the camshaft sprockets, do not
should be fitted dry.
sprockets stationary as during removal.
turn the crankshaft until the timing chain has
53 Refit the timing chain cover securing bolts
48 Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
been correctly refitted - this is to prevent
and studs in their original locations, and
two complete revolutions, and check that the
contact between the valves and pistons. A
tighten them to the specified torque (see
timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are
new timing chain tensioner plunger assembly,
illustration).
still aligned with the top face of the cylinder
a new upper timing chain cover gasket, and a
54 Remove the reinforcing sleeves from the
head as described in paragraph 4.
camshaft cover, and renew the rubber sealing new camshaft cover gasket and reinforcing
49 Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
rings. Note that the four short reinforcing sleeve sealing rings, must be used on refitting.
another complete revolution, and check that
sleeves fit at the front of the cover (see
the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets
Removal
illustration).
are facing each other, directly in line with the
1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
55 Refit the camshaft cover using a new
top face of the cylinder head.
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts and following operations:
studs to the specified torque. a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
19 Cylinder head - dismantling
c) On fuel injection models, remove the air
and reassembly inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
Note: A valve spring compressor will be
d) Disconnect the breather hose from the
required during this procedure. New valve
camshaft cover.
stem oil seals should be used on reassembly.
e) Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
1 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part C,
and the rotor arm and housing. If
noting the following points:
necessary, mark the HT leads to aid
a) Ignore the references to removing and
refitting.
refitting the camshaft.
2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 15
19.1 Withdrawing the double valve springs b) Double valve springs are used on all the
inclusive of Section 18.
from the cylinder head valves (see illustration).
DOHC engine 2B•15
4 Ideally, the new oil seal should be installed
Inspection
23 Crankshaft front oil seal - using a tool similar to that shown (see
3 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
illustration). A suitable tool can be
renewal
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
improvised using a metal tube of suitable
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and two
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
excessive considerable noise would have
flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
been noticed from the top of the engine when
using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that
crankshaft pulley bolt, and a new lower timing
running, and new camshafts and followers
the seal lip faces into the engine.
chain cover gasket, must be used on refitting.
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
5 With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
1 The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
lower timing chain cover.
has been covered. Note that the cam
6 Refit the engine adapter plate and the
2 If the engine is in the car, carry out the
followers cannot be dismantled for renewal of
flywheel/driveplate.
following operations:
individual components.
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4 Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
25 Sump - removal and refitting
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
pulley with the radiator in place.
action available is to renew the cylinder head
c) On fuel injection models, remove the air
and bearing caps. Warning: A new sump gasket will
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
5 Check the cam follower bores in the be required on refitting, and
cleaner lid as an assembly.
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is suitable sealing compound will
3 Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed. be required to coat the sump and
of Section 15.
6 Check the cam follower oil grooves and the cylinder block mating faces.
4 With the lower timing chain cover removed,
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions. Shims may be required when mating the
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a engine and gearbox/transmission - see text.
Refitting screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
Removal
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal
7 Refit the cam followers and the camshafts
lip faces into the engine. Take care not to
as described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of 1 Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
damage the timing chain cover.
Section 18. the engine is removed from the vehicle - if so,
5 Refit the lower timing chain cover as
8 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the proceed to paragraph 9. However, if the
described in paragraphs 31 to 39 of Section
operations given in paragraph 1. engine is in the vehicle, proceed as follows.
15. 2 Remove the gearbox and clutch, or
6 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the 2B
automatic transmission, as applicable.
22 Flywheel/driveplate - removal
operations given in paragraph 2. 3 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
inspection and refitting
engine adapter plate.
4 Drain the engine oil into a container.
24 Crankshaft rear oil seal -
Note: New flywheel/driveplate securing bolts
5 Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
renewal
must be used on refitting.
in the straight-ahead position, then remove
1 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, noting the
the clamp bolt from the lower steering column
Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
following points. clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and
used on refitting.
2 If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter 6 disconnect the lower steering column from
1 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
when removing and refitting the clutch. the lower flexible coupling.
engine adapter plate.
3 There is no need to make alignment marks 6 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
2 Extract the seal using an oil seal removal
between the flywheel/driveplate and the end brackets located at the front and rear of the
tool if available. It may also be possible to
of the crankshaft, as the securing bolt holes cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face
are offset, so the flywheel/driveplate can only the engine.
and using self-tapping screws and a pair of
be fitted to the crankshaft in one position. 7 Detach the brake lines from the front
grips.
4 The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must suspension crossmember.
3 Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
be renewed when refitting, and the new bolts 8 Support the crossmember with a jack, then
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
are supplied ready-coated with threadlocking loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
compound (see illustration). the underbody. Remove the bolts, and
seal is installed.
5 Check on the availability of new parts carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently
before contemplating renewal of the ring gear. to allow the sump to be removed.
9 If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump
has been removed, to prevent sludge in the
sump from entering the engine internals.
10 Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the
engine. If the sump is stuck, gently tap it
sideways to free it (the sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on studs in the cylinder
block). Do not prise between the mating faces
of the sump and block. Recover the gasket.
11 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
24.4 Tool used to fit crankshaft rear oil
Refitting
seal
12 Commence refitting by locating a new
22.4 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel A Rear oil seal housing
gasket in the grooves in the sump.
when tightening securing bolts B Special tool
2B•16 DOHC engine
25.15 Measuring the clearance between 26.3a Oil pump securing bolts (arrowed)
the cylinder block and sump end faces
19 Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
20 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
21 Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
22 Refit the gearbox or automatic
transmission, ensuring that the required shims
are fitted between the sump and the
25.13 Apply sealing compound to the gearbox/transmission.
sump/cylinder block mating faces at the 23 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque, 26.3b Withdrawing the oil pump
points indicated (2) where applicable.
Dimensions are for guidance only
26 Oil pump - removal and
13 Apply a suitable sealing compound to the 8 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 27 to 39
refitting
faces of the cylinder block and sump, at the of Section 15.
points indicated (see illustration). 9 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
14 Locate the sump on the cylinder block, Note: A suitable puller will be required to operations described in paragraph 1.
then apply suitable thread-locking compound remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
to the sump securing studs and bolts. Fit the crankshaft pulley bolt, a new lower timing
27 Oil pump - dismantling,
securing nuts and bolts, but do not fully chain cover gasket, and a new oil pump
inspection and reassembly
tighten them at this stage. gasket, must be used on refitting.
15 Align the sump so that its end faces and
Removal
the cylinder block are flush. To do this, use a
Dismantling
straight-edge. If the sump cannot be 1 If the engine is in the car, carry out the
positioned so that the faces of the cylinder 1 The oil pump can be dismantled for
following operations:
block and sump are flush, measure the cleaning, but if any of the components are
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
difference in height using a feeler blade as worn, the pump must be renewed as an
b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It
shown (see illustration). assembly.
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
16 Tighten the sump securing nuts and bolts 2 To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows.
pulley with the radiator in place.
to the specified torque, then repeat the 3 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
c) On fuel injection models, remove the air
measurement made in paragraph 15. If the remove the pump cover (see illustration).
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
end faces of the sump and cylinder block are 4 Lift the inner and outer rotors from the
cleaner lid as an assembly.
not flush, suitable shims (available from a Ford pump casing.
2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 10
dealer) must be fitted between the sump and
of Section 15.
the gearbox/transmission to eliminate the
3 Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
clearance when mating the engine to the
withdraw the oil pump from the cylinder block
gearbox/transmission. Note that shims should
(see illustrations). Recover the gasket.
be fitted at both sides of the sump, as
required. Select suitable shims from those Refitting
listed in the following table:
4 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
Clearance measured Shims required
pump and the cylinder block.
0 to 0.25 mm No shims required
5 Prime the pump by injecting clean engine
0.25 to 0.29 mm 0.15 mm (silver)
oil into it and turning it by hand.
0.30 to 0.44 mm 0.30 mm (light blue)
6 Place a new gasket on the oil pump flange,
0.45 to 0.59 mm 0.45 mm (red)
ensuring that the gasket is correctly located
0.60 to 0.75 mm 0.60 mm (black)
so that its holes align with the oil passages in
17 If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
the pump.
follows.
7 Fit the oil pump, and tighten the securing 27.3 Removing the oil pump cover
18 Reverse the procedure described in
bolts to the specified torque.
paragraphs 2 to 8, noting the following points.
DOHC engine 2B•17
27.5a Unscrew the pressure relief valve 27.5b . . . and withdraw the spring and 27.9 The punch marks (arrowed) on the oil
plug and washer . . . plunger pump rotors must face the pump cover
3 Examine the chain for wear. If it has been in bolts in the three stages given in the
5 Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug from
operation for a considerable time, or if when Specifications at the beginning of this
the pump cover, recover the washer, and
held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes on a Chapter.
withdraw the spring and plunger (see
deeply-bowed appearance, renew it. 9 Refit the oil baffle, and tighten the securing
illustrations).
nuts.
Inspection 10 Clean the mating faces of the cylinder
29 Pistons and connecting rods
6 Thoroughly clean all components in petrol or block and the oil pick-up pipe, and refit the
- removal and refitting
paraffin, and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag. pick-up pipe using a new gasket.
7 Examine the rotors and the pump casing for 11 Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
Note: New connecting rod bolts and a new oil
signs of excessive wear on the machined
pick-up pipe gasket must be used on refitting.
surfaces. If wear is evident, the complete
30 Crankshaft and main bearings
pump assembly must be renewed, as spare Removal - removal and refitting
parts are not available individually.
1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head.
Reassembly 2 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and Note: A new crankshaft rear oil seal and a new
remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration). rear oil seal housing gasket should be used on
8 Commence reassembly by lubricating the 2B
Recover the gasket.
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and the refitting.
3 Unscrew the four securing nuts, and
spring, and screw the plug into place,
Removal
withdraw the oil baffle from the studs on the
ensuring that the washer is in place under the
main bearing caps (see illustration). 1 With the engine removed from the vehicle,
plug.
4 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part A,
9 Lubricate the rotors, and fit them to the remove the timing chain and crankshaft
Section 32, paragraphs 2 to 5.
pump casing with the punch marks facing the sprocket, and the flywheel/driveplate.
pump cover (see illustration). 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
Refitting
10 Refit the pump cover and tighten the no work is to be done on the pistons and
5 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part A,
securing bolts. connecting rods, there is no need to push the
Section 32, paragraphs 6 to 13, noting the
11 Prime the pump before refitting. pistons out of the cylinder bores.
following points:
3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
6 Take note of the orientation of the bearing
and remove it from the rear of the cylinder
28 Oil pump drive chain and shells during dismantling, and ensure that
block. Recover the gasket.
sprockets - examination and they are fitted correctly during reassembly.
4 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
renovation 7 When fitting the pistons, ensure that the
remove the sump mounting plate from the
arrow on the piston crown and the letter “F”
front of the cylinder block (see illustration).
on the face of the connecting rod are pointing
1 Examine all the teeth on the sprockets. If
5 Check the main bearing caps for
towards the front of the engine.
the teeth are “hooked” in appearance, renew
identification marks, and if necessary, use a
8 Use new connecting rod bolts on
the sprockets.
centre-punch to identify them (see
reassembly, and before fitting, oil the threads
2 Examine the chain tensioner for wear, and
illustration).
and the contact faces of the bolts. Tighten the
renew it if necessary.
29.2 Removing the oil pick-up pipe 29.3 Withdrawing the oil baffle 30.4 Unscrewing a sump mounting plate
securing bolt
2B•18 DOHC engine
30.5 Main bearing cap identification mark
(arrowed)
6 Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
30.10 Crankshaft main bearings and associated components
crankshaft web and one of the thrustwashers
(the thrustwashers are fitted to the crankcase,
1 Bearing cap 4 Identification markings 6 Bearing shell with oil
not the bearing cap). This will indicate whether
2 Thrustwasher 5 Bearing shell without oil groove
or not new thrustwashers are required.
3 Stud for oil baffle groove 7 Bearing seat in cylinder
7 Unscrew the bolts, and tap off the main
block
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
16 Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that
8 Lift the crankshaft from the cylinder block,
31 Crankshaft and bearings -
the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3
and remove the rear oil seal if it is still in place
and 5.
on the crankshaft. examination and renovation
17 Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then
9 Extract the bearing shells, and recover the
progressively tighten all bolts to the specified
thrustwashers, keeping them identified for 1 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part A,
torque.
location. noting the following.
18 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely. 2 Production bearing undersizes are
Refitting Some stiffness is to be expected with new indicated as follows:
10 Commence refitting as follows (see components, but there must be no tight spots Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft -
illustration). or binding. standard-diameter main bearing journals.
11 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the 19 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a within the specified limits by inserting a feeler - main bearing journals 0.25 mm
soft non-fluffy rag. blade between the centre crankshaft web and undersize.
12 If the old main bearing shells are to be the thrustwashers. Green spot on counterweight - big-end
renewed (not to do so is a false economy, 20 Refit the sump mounting plate to the front bearing journals 25 mm undersize.
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing
halves of the main bearing shells to their bolts to the specified torque.
32 Initial start-up after overhaul or
locations in the crankcase. 21 Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around
major repair
13 Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main the rear edge of the crankshaft, to protect the
bearing location, using a little grease to retain oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed.
1 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, but note that
them if necessary. The oil grooves in the 22 Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
when the engine is first started, a metallic
thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing using a new gasket, and tighten the securing
tapping noise may be heard. This is due to the
the crankshaft webs). Note that where bolts to the specified torque.
timing chain tensioner plunger assembly
standard thrustwashers have been fitted in 23 Ideally, the new oil seal should be
taking time to pressurise with oil, resulting in a
production, the centre main bearing is installed using a tool similar to that used for
temporarily slack chain. The noise should
unmarked. If oversize (0.38 mm) fitting the crankshaft rear oil seal. A suitable
stop after a short time, once oil pressure has
thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre tool can be improvised using a metal tube of
built up.
main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark. suitable diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and
14 Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the two flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position
upper and lower main bearing shells with using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that
clean engine oil, then carefully lower the the seal lip faces into the engine.
crankshaft into the crankcase. 24 With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
15 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
journals again, and then fit the main bearing 25 Refit the pistons and connecting rods.
caps in their correct locations, with the arrows 26 Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the
on the caps pointing to the front of the engine. timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.
CVH engines 2C•5
1.8 litre (R6A type) engine
Note: Unless otherwise stated, the Specifications for this later version of the 1.8 litre CVH engine are as given for the earlier R2A type above.
General
Engine code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R6A
Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5700 rpm
Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 kW at 5200 rpm
Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Nm at 3000 rpm
Valve timing
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24º BTDC
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116º BTDC
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110º ATDC
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18º ATDC
chamber. The tension of the coil spring causes which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump and forces it through a full-
the plunger to press the rocker arm against the
1 General information flow filter into the oil galleries where it is
valve and to eliminate any free play.
distributed to the crankshaft and camshaft.
As the cam lifts the cam follower, the oil
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via
pressure in the pressure chamber increases
1.6 litre engine internal drillings in the crankshaft. The
and causes the non-return valve to close the
undersides of the pistons are supplied with oil
port to the feed chamber. As oil cannot be
The 1.6 litre CVH engine was introduced in
from drillings in the big-ends. The hydraulic
compressed, it forms a rigid link between the
September 1991, to replace the 1.6 litre
cam followers are supplied with oil from the
body of the cam follower, the cylinder and the
SOHC engine used previously in the Sierra
camshaft bearings via short passages in the
plunger which then rise as one component to
range. The engine is broadly similar to the 1.8
cylinder head.
open the valve.
litre (R2A type) CVH engine described below.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
The clearance between the body of the cam
The main differences are outlined in the
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
follower and the cylinder is accurately designed
following paragraphs.
are drawn from the crankcase, through the
to meter a specific quantity of oil as it escapes
The centre main bearing is fitted with
camshaft cover via an external vent hose, out
from the pressure chamber. Oil will only pass
thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat,
to an oil separator built into the base of the air
along the cylinder bore when pressure is high
instead of a flanged bearing shell.
cleaner.
during the moment of valve opening. Once the 2C
The hydraulic cam followers operate in a
valve has closed, the escape of oil will produce
similar manner to those described for the 1.8 1.8 litre (R6A type) engine
a small amount of free play and no pressure will
litre (R2A) engine but no rollers are fitted, and
The 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH engine,
exist in the pressure chamber. Oil from the feed
the base of each cam follower is in direct
introduced in March 1992, is a further
chamber can then flow through the non-return
contact with the cam profile.
development of the earlier 1.8 litre (R2A type)
valve into the pressure chamber so that the
A distributorless ignition system is used and
unit described above. Apart from minor
cam follower cylinder can be raised by the
a blanking plate is therefore fitted to the cylinder
engineering modifications to provide
pressure of the coil spring, thus eliminating any
head in place of the distributor drive. The
increased fuel economy, reliability and power
play in the arrangement until the valve is
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.
output, the engine is mechanically identical to
operated again.
A comprehensive emissions control system
the earlier version.
As wear occurs between rocker arm and
is fitted, comprising Central Fuel Injection
In common with the 1.6 litre unit, a
valve stem, the quantity of oil which flows into
(CFI), a sophisticated engine management
distributorless ignition system is used,
the pressure chamber will be slightly more
system, a crankcase ventilation system, a
together with a comprehensive emissions
than the quantity lost during the expansion
catalytic converter, and a pulseair system (to
control system comprising Central Fuel
cycle of the cam follower. Conversely, when
reduce exhaust gas emissions).
Injection (CFI), a sophisticated engine
the cam follower is compressed by the
Unless otherwise stated, all procedures are
management system, a crankcase ventilation
expansion of the valve, a slightly smaller
as described for the 1.8 litre (R2A) engine.
system, a catalytic converter, and additionally,
quantity of oil will flow into the pressure
1.8 litre (R2A type) engine an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system.
chamber than was lost.
Unless otherwise stated, all procedures are
To reduce valve clatter when the engine is
The CVH (Compound Valve angle,
as described for the 1.8 litre (R2A type)
started, a small plastic stand pipe retains oil
Hemispherical combustion chambers) engine
engine.
inside the plunger. When the engine is started,
is of four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead
the reservoir in the plunger (and via the non-
camshaft type. The engine was introduced to
return valve, the pressure chamber) are
replace the 1.8 SOHC engine previously used
2 Engine oil and filter - renewal
immediately filled with oil. This reduces the
in the range.
noise often associated with hydraulic cam
The crankshaft incorporates five main
followers as they pressurise with oil after
bearings. The centre main bearing has a Refer to Section 2, Chapter 2, Part A.
engine start-up.
flanged bearing shell (thrust bearing) fitted to
The cam follower rollers run in needle
the cylinder block to control crankshaft endfloat
3 Crankcase ventilation system -
bearings, which greatly reduces friction as the
The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt and
inspection and maintenance
rollers follow the cam profile.
operates the compound angled valves via roller
The distributor and fuel pump are driven
type hydraulic cam followers, which eliminates
directly from the camshaft and the oil pump is
the need for valve clearance adjustment. The Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.
driven directly from the front of the crankshaft.
cam followers operate in the following way.
The cylinder head is of crossflow design,
When the valve is closed, pressurised engine
with the inlet manifold mounted on the right-
oil passes through ports in the body of the cam 4 Compression test
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
follower and the plunger into the cylinder feed
chamber. From this chamber, oil flows through on the left-hand side.
Refer to Section 5, Chapter 2, Part A.
a ball type non-return valve into the pressure Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
2C•6 CVH engines
5 Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
a) Removal of the cylinder head
b) Removal of the camshaft
c) Removal of the timing belt and sprockets
d) Removal of the engine mountings
e) Removal of the clutch and flywheel
f) Removal of the crankshaft oil seals
6 Major operations requiring
engine removal
8.7 Disconnect the upper radiator hose (1) 8.9 Disconnecting the brake servo vacuum
a) Removal of the sump and the expansion tank hose (2) from the hose from the inlet manifold -
b) Removal of the oil pump thermostat housing - 1.8 litre (R2A) 1.8 litre (R2A)
c) Removal of the pistons/connecting rods
16 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
8 Disconnect the heater hose from the
d) Removal of the big-end bearings
automatic choke. gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
e) Removal of the crankshaft main bearings
9 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose engine compartment.
f) Removal of the crankshaft
from the inlet manifold (see illustration). 17 Apply the handbrake (if not already done),
10 Disconnect the throttle damper solenoid jack up the front of the vehicle and support on
7 Method of engine removal vacuum pipes (noting their locations) from the axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
throttle damper and the carburettor “T”-piece Support”).
connector. 18 Drain the engine oil into a container.
Refer to Section 8, Chapter 2, Part A. 11 Disconnect the engine management 19 Remove the starter motor.
module vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold. 20 Remove the exhaust downpipe.
12 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the 21 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine
8 Engine - removal leaving
carburettor and fuel pump, and plug the ends mountings to the crossmember. Recover the
manual gearbox in vehicle
of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage. Take washers.
adequate fire precautions. 22 Unscrew and remove the remaining
Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be
13 Disconnect the throttle cable. engine-to-gearbox bolts, noting the location
required for this operation.
14 Disconnect the HT leads from the coil and of the earth strap (see illustration), and
spark plugs, unclip the leads from the
1.8 litre (R2A type) remove the two bolts from the engine adapter
camshaft cover, and remove the distributor plate (see illustration).
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
cap, rotor arm and housing. 23 Working inside the vehicle, place a
2 Remove the bonnet.
15 Disconnect the wiring from the following wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
3 Remove the air cleaner.
components: it fully against its stop which will hold the
4 Disconnect the cooling fan wiring plug, then
Alternator automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
unscrew the retaining nuts and washers and
Starter motor quadrant.
withdraw the fan shroud and cooling fan Oil pressure warning lamp switch 24 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
assembly. Temperature gauge sender release arm, and pass the cable through the
5 Drain the cooling system. Engine coolant temperature sensor bellhousing. Remove the clip securing the
6 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the Automatic choke clutch cable to the right-hand engine
coolant pump elbow, and detach the heater Cooling fan switch mounting bracket. Note the cable routing for
hose from the clip on the front of the timing Crankshaft speed/position sensor use when refitting.
cover. Engine earth strap to battery tray 25 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
7 Disconnect the upper radiator hose and the
support the gearbox with a trolley jack using a
expansion tank hose from the thermostat
block of wood between the jack and the
housing (see illustration).
gearbox to spread the load.
26 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
27 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine. The engine should be supported
horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to
rear.
28 Raise the engine until the engine
mounting studs are clear of the crossmember,
then pull the engine forwards to disconnect it
from the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is
adequately supported, and take care not to
strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be
8.22a Earth strap location under engine-to- 8.22b Remove the two bolts (arrowed) from necessary to rock the engine a little to release
gearbox bolt - 1.8 litre (R2A) the engine adapter plate - 1.8 litre (R2A) it from the gearbox.
CVH engines 2C•7
9 Engine - removal leaving
automatic transmission in
vehicle
Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be
required for this operation.
1 Proceed as described in Section 8,
paragraphs 1 to 15 inclusive. Additionally, if
applicable disconnect the kickdown cable
from the carburettor.
2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
transmission bolts which are accessible from
8.29 Lifting the engine from the vehicle - 8.36 Pulse-air system check valves the engine compartment. Note the location of
1.8 litre (R2A) (arrowed) - 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A) the vacuum pipe bracket and transmission
dipstick tube bracket.
29 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine 41 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
3 Proceed as described in Section 8,
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
paragraphs 17 to 21 inclusive.
the radiator fins (see illustration). engine compartment.
4 Working through the starter motor aperture,
42 Apply the handbrake (if not already done), unscrew the four torque converter-to-
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) jack up the front of the vehicle and support it driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
30 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 5. on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
31 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the Support”). crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
thermostat housing, noting their locations. 43 Drain the engine oil into a suitable to each nut in turn through the aperture.
32 Disconnect the lower radiator hose from container. 5 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
the coolant pump elbow and, where 44 Remove the starter motor. to-transmission bolts, noting the location of
applicable, disconnect the heater hose from 45 Disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen the earth strap, and remove the two bolts
the T-piece on the lower radiator hose. sensor wiring connector, then remove the from the engine adapter plate. Where
33 On 1.6 engines, disconnect the coolant exhaust downpipe. applicable pull the blanking plug from the
hose from the central fuel injection (CFI) unit. 46 Disconnect the wiring plug from the adapter plate.
34 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
crankshaft speed/position sensor. 6 Lower the vehicle to the ground and
from the inlet manifold by carefully pressing
2C
47 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine support the transmission with a trolley jack,
the clip on the inlet manifold connector into
using a block of wood between the jack and
mountings to the crossmember. Recover the
the manifold using a screwdriver, and
the transmission to spread the load.
washers.
withdrawing the hose.
7 Make a final check to ensure that all
48 Unscrew and remove the remaining
35 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
engine-to-gearbox bolts, noting the location
inlet manifold, noting their locations.
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
of the earth strap and any wiring brackets,
36 On 1.6 litre engines, disconnect the two
8 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
and remove the two bolts from the engine
hoses from the pulse-air system check valves
brackets located at the front and rear of the
adapter plate (see illustration).
(see illustration).
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
49 Unscrew the securing bolt, and remove
37 Gradually loosen the fuel inlet pipe union
the engine. The engine should be supported
the crankshaft speed/position sensor shroud
on the CFI unit, to relieve the pressure in the
horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear.
(where fitted).
fuel system. Be prepared for fuel spray, and
9 Raise the engine until the engine mounting
50 On 1.6 litre engines, working inside the
take adequate fire precautions. Once the
studs are clear of the crossmember, then pull
vehicle, place a wooden block under the
pressure has reduced, disconnect the fuel
the engine forwards to disconnect it from the
clutch pedal to raise it fully against its stop.
inlet and return hoses. Plug the ends of the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
This will hold the automatic adjuster pawl
hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
is held firmly in place in the transmission
clear of the toothed quadrant. Disconnect the
38 Disconnect the throttle cable, if
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in
clutch cable from the release arm, and pass
necessary.
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
39 Disconnect the wiring from the following the cable through the bellhousing. Note the necessary to rock the engine a little to release
components, as applicable. cable routing for use when refitting. it from the transmission.
Alternator 51 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 25 to 29. 10 Once clear of the transmission, lift the
Starter motor
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
damage the radiator fins.
Temperature gauge sender
Engine coolant temperature sensor
10 Engine/manual gearbox
Inlet air temperature sensor
Ignition coil assembly - removal and
Throttle stepper motor separation
Throttle position sensor
Fuel injector
Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be
Cooling fan switch
required for this operation.
Air charge temperature sensor
Engine earth strap to battery tray 1.8 litre (R2A type)
40 On 1.8 litre engine models with power
Removal
steering, slacken the power steering pump
pulley bolts, then remove the alternator/power 1 Proceed as described in Section 8,
steering pump drivebelt. Remove the pulley, 8.48 Engine adapter plate bolts (A) and paragraphs 1 to 15 inclusive.
unbolt the power steering pump from its crankshaft speed/position sensor shroud 2 Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the
bracket, and move it clear of the engine. (B) - 1.6 litre gear lever knob and remove the centre
2C•8 CVH engines
console. Where a full-length console is fitted, 22 Remove the starter motor. 9 Disconnect the wiring from the starter
23 Support the engine and gearbox inhibitor/reversing lamp switch, the lock-up
it is only necessary to remove the front tray.
horizontally on blocks of wood. clutch and where applicable the kickdown
3 Detach the outer gaiter from the retaining
24 Unscrew and remove the engine-to- solenoid.
frame and withdraw it over the gear lever.
gearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth 10 Remove the securing screw, and
4 Release the clips and remove the gaiter
strap, and remove the two bolts from the disconnect the speedometer cable from the
retaining frame and inner gaiter.
engine adapter plate. transmission extension housing. Plug the
5 Using a suitable Torx key, remove the
25 Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking opening in the transmission to prevent dirt
screws securing the gear lever to the gearbox
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It ingress.
extension housing, and withdraw the gear
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to 11 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
lever. Note how the base of the gear lever
separate them. vacuum diaphragm unit, and unclip the pipe
locates over the selector shaft.
from its securing bracket on the transmission
6 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle 1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) housing.
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
26 Proceed as described in paragraphs 30 to 12 Drain the engine oil into a container.
Ensure that there is sufficient working room
40 inclusive of Section 8. 13 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine
beneath the vehicle.
27 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to mountings to the crossmember. Recover the
7 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
25 inclusive of Section 10, noting the washers.
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
following points. 14 Support the transmission with a trolley
exhaust system.
28 Disconnect the wiring from the vehicle jack using a block of wood between the jack
8 Remove the propeller shaft.
speed sensor mounted on the gearbox before and the transmission to spread the load.
9 Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
removing the engine/gearbox assembly. 15 Unscrew the four bolts securing the
then unscrew the two bolts securing each of
29 Note that on 1.6 litre engines, the transmission crossmember to the vehicle
the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle
crankshaft speed/position sensor shroud underbody. Note the position of the earth
underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as
(which is secured by a single bolt) must be strap, where applicable. Unscrew the central
possible.
removed before separating the engine from bolt securing the crossmember to the
10 Proceed as described in Section 8,
the gearbox. transmission and remove the crossmember.
paragraphs 23 and 24.
Recover the mounting cup and the exhaust
11 Drain the engine oil into a container.
11 Engine/automatic mounting bracket.
12 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine
16 Make a final check to ensure that all
mountings to the crossmember. Recover the transmission assembly -
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
washers. removal and separation disconnected to facilitate removal of the
13 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
engine/transmission assembly.
lamp switch.
Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be 17 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
14 Remove the retaining circlip, and
required for this operation. Any suspected brackets located at the front and rear of the
withdraw the speedometer cable from the faults in the automatic transmission should be cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
gearbox extension housing. referred to a Ford dealer or automatic the engine/transmission assembly will assume
15 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack, transmission specialist before removal of the
a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it
using a block of wood between the jack and unit, as the specialist fault diagnosis
is being removed.
the gearbox to spread the load. equipment is designed to operate with the
18 Raise the engine/transmission so that the
16 Unscrew the four bolts securing the transmission in the vehicle.
engine mounting studs are clear of the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
Removal crossmember, then ease the assembly
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
the crossmember to the gearbox and remove 1 Proceed as described in Section 8,
jack which is supporting the transmission. Lift
the crossmember. Note the position of the paragraphs 1 to 15 inclusive, but additionally,
the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the where applicable disconnect the kickdown
to damage surrounding components.
mounting cup and where applicable the cable from the carburettor.
19 With the engine/transmission assembly
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield. 2 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll
17 Make a final check to ensure that all stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been Ensure that there is sufficient working room
moved.
disconnected to facilitate removal of the beneath the vehicle.
engine/gearbox assembly. 3 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust Separation
18 Attach a hoist to the engine lifting downpipe from the manifold and remove the
20 To separate the engine from the
exhaust system.
brackets located at the front and rear of the
transmission, proceed as follows.
4 Remove the propeller shaft.
cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
21 Remove the starter motor.
5 Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
22 Support the engine and transmission
then unscrew the two bolts securing each of
steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is
horizontally on blocks of wood.
the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle
being removed.
23 Working through the starter motor
underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as
19 Raise the engine/gearbox so that the
aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
possible.
engine mounting studs are clear of the
to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
6 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
crossmember, then ease the assembly
the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
the open ends of the pipes and the
jack which is supporting the gearbox. Lift the
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to
24 Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
leakage. Remove the fluid cooler pipe bracket
damage the surrounding components.
transmission bolts, noting the locations of the
from the engine mounting bracket and place it
20 With the engine/gearbox assembly
earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
to one side.
removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll
transmission dipstick tube bracket. Remove
7 Remove the two clips securing the selector
bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be
the two bolts from the engine adapter plate,
rod, and detach the selector rod from the
moved.
and where applicable pull the blanking plug
manual selector lever, and the selector lever
Separation from the adapter plate.
on the transmission,
21 To separate the engine from the gearbox, 25 Pull the engine and transmission apart,
8 If applicable, disconnect the kickdown cable
proceed as follows. from the transmission and withdraw the cable. ensuring that the torque converter is held
CVH engines 2C•9
refitting and tightening the engine-to-
firmly in place in the transmission housing, 7 Fill the cooling system.
otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid transmission bolts.
8 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
spillage and possible damage. It may be 5 Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
of the alternator drivebelt.
necessary to rock the units slightly to driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
9 Adjust the throttle cable.
separate them. transmission bolts have been fitted and
10 If applicable, adjust the kickdown cable.
tightened.
6 Reconnect and adjust the selector rod.
12 Engine - refitting (manual 14 Engine/manual gearbox 7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
gearbox in vehicle) assembly - reconnection and quantity of oil.
refitting 8 Fill the cooling system.
9 Check and if necessary top-up the
1.8 litre (R2A type)
transmission fluid level.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1 Reverse the procedure described in 10 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
Section 8, noting the following points. of the alternator drivebelt.
1 Reverse the procedure described in Section
2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check 11 Adjust the throttle cable.
10, noting the following points.
that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This 12 Where applicable, adjust the kickdown
2 Before attempting to reconnect the engine
is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input cable.
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
shaft splines will pass through the splines in
disc is centralised. This is necessary to ensure
the centre of the friction disc.
that the gearbox input shaft splines will pass
3 Check that the clutch release arm and 16 Engine mountings - renewal
through the splines in the centre of the friction
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
disc.
the input shaft splines.
3 Check that the clutch release arm and
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is 1 The engine mountings incorporate
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. hydraulic dampers and must be renewed if
the input shaft splines.
5 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release excessive engine movement is evident.
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during 2 Working in the engine compartment,
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
removal. unscrew the central nuts securing the engine
5 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
6 Fill the engine with the correct grade and mounting brackets to the tops of the
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
quantity of oil. mountings. Recover the washers.
removal.
7 Fill the cooling system. 3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
6 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
8 Check and if necessary adjust the tension the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
quantity of oil.
of the alternator drivebelt. “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
7 Fill the cooling system.
2C
9 Adjust the throttle cable. 4 Working underneath the vehicle, remove
8 Check and if necessary top-up the gearbox
the central nuts securing the mountings to the
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) oil level.
crossmember. Recover the washers.
9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
10 Reverse the procedure described in 5 Raise the engine using a suitable hoist and
of the alternator drivebelt.
Section 8, noting the points made above. lifting tackle attached to the engine lifting
10 Adjust the throttle cable.
brackets on the cylinder head, or a jack and
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) interposed block of wood under the sump,
13 Engine - refitting (automatic
until the mountings can be withdrawn.
11 Reverse the procedure described in
transmission in vehicle) 6 Fit the new mountings, then lower the
Section 10, noting the points made above.
engine onto them. Note that the locating pins
Ensure that the vehicle speed sensor wiring
1 Reverse the procedure described in on the mountings must engage with the
plug is reconnected.
Section 9, noting the following points. corresponding holes in the engine mounting
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is brackets (see illustration).
15 Engine/automatic
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 7 Fit the nuts and washers securing the
3 As the torque converter is only loosely transmission assembly - mountings to the crossmember and tighten
engaged in the transmission, care must be the nuts.
reconnection and refitting
taken to prevent the torque converter from 8 Lower the vehicle to the ground and fit the
falling out forwards. When the torque nuts and washers securing the engine
1 Reverse the procedure described in Section
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid mounting brackets to the mountings. Tighten
11, noting the following points.
the nuts.
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
as specified. Incorrect installation of the 3 As the torque converter is only loosely
torque converter will result in damage to the engaged in the transmission, care must be
transmission. taken to prevent the torque converter from
4 As the engine is installed, guide the torque falling out forwards. When the torque
converter studs through the holes in the converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
driveplate. When the engine is positioned pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
flush with the engine adapter plate and the “A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
transmission housing, check that the torque as specified. Incorrect installation of the
converter is free to move axially a small torque converter will result in damage to the
amount before refitting and tightening the transmission.
engine-to-transmission bolts. 4 As the engine and transmission are
5 Do not tighten the torque converter-to- reconnected, guide the torque converter
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to- studs through the holes in the driveplate.
transmission bolts have been fitted and When the engine is positioned flush with the
16.6 Locating pin on mounting must
tightened. engine adapter plate and the transmission
engage with hole (arrowed) in engine
6 Fill the engine with the correct grade and housing, check that the torque converter is
mounting bracket
free to move axially a small amount before
quantity of oil.
2C•10 CVH engines
Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
17 Engine dismantling, Engine lifting brackets.
Crankcase ventilation hose.
examination, renovation and
reassembly - general information Examination and renovation
19 Refer to Section 18 in Chapter 2, Part A.
Reassembly
1.8 litre (R2A type)
20 Refer to paragraphs 12 to 16 but note that
Dismantling
new rocker arm nuts will be required, if they
1 It is best to mount the engine on a have been removed.
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
18 Timing belt and sprockets -
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
removal and refitting
have to stripped down on the floor. 17.10 Removing the oil pressure warning
2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the lamp switch - 1.8 litre (R2A)
Note: The belt tension should be checked
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be using Ford special tool No 21-113 after
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
clear, and locking washers and spring
3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a refitting. A suitable puller may be required to
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all
concrete floor, as grit presents a real source remove the sprockets. If the camshaft
bearings and other working surfaces
of trouble. sprocket is removed, a new retaining bolt
thoroughly with engine oil during assembly.
4 As parts are removed, clean them in a must be used on refitting, and suitable sealant
13 Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts (Loctite 74 or 274, or Omnifit 30M blue) will be
or studs with damaged threads.
with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult required to coat the bolt threads.
14 Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
1.8 litre (R2A type)
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
seals, together with a new oil filter.
5 It is advisable to have suitable containers Removal
15 If they have been removed, new cylinder
available to hold small items according to
head bolts, big-end bolts/nuts and new 1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
their use, as this will help when reassembling
flywheel bolts will be required. following operations:
the engine and also prevent possible losses.
16 After reassembling the main engine a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
6 Always obtain a complete set of new
components, refer to paragraph 10 and refit b) Remove the alternator drivebelt
gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but
the ancillary components listed. Delicate c) Remove the distributor cap, rotor arm and
retain the old gaskets with a view to using
items such as the alternator may be left until housing
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
after the engine has been refitted. d) Disconnect the wiring plug from the
new one is not available.
crankshaft speed/position sensor
7 Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts 1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
e) Unclip the coolant hoses from the timing
and washers to their locations after removing
Dismantling cover, and position them across the top
the relevant components. This will help to
of the camshaft cover out of the way
protect the threads and will also prevent 17 Refer to paragraphs 1 to 9 inclusive.
f) If desired for improved access, remove
possible losses. 18 Before dismantling the main engine
the fan shroud and cooling fan assembly,
8 Retain unserviceable components in order components, the following ancillary
although this is not essential
to compare them with the new components components can be removed:
2 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
supplied. Inlet manifold and CFI unit.
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
9 A suitable Torx socket will be required to Exhaust manifold .
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
remove the oil pump cover securing screws. Alternator.
assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
10 Before dismantling the main engine Spark plugs and HT leads.
removing the starter motor and jamming the
components, the following externally mounted Ignition coil and mounting bracket.
ancillary components can be removed: ring gear teeth with a lever.
Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
Inlet manifold and carburettor Oil filter. 3 Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
Exhaust manifold Dipstick and tube. the pulley (see illustration). If the pulley will
Fuel pump and operating pushrod Engine mounting brackets. not come off easily, refit the bolt part way and
Alternator Clutch. use a puller, but take care not to damage the
Spark plugs Alternator mounting bracket. sensor toothed disc.
Oil pressure warning lamp switch (see
illustration)
Oil filter
Dipstick
Engine mounting brackets
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
Engine lifting brackets
Examination and renovation
11 Refer to Section 18 in Chapter 2, Part A.
Reassembly
12 To ensure maximum life with minimum
18.3 Withdrawing the crankshaft pulley - 18.5 Withdrawing the timing cover -
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
1.8 litre (R2A) 1.8 litre (R2A)
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
CVH engines 2C•11
18.6a TDC lug on crankshaft sprocket 18.6b TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket 18.8 Withdrawing the timing belt -
aligned with notch in oil pump flange - aligned with dot on cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)
1.8 litre (R2A) 1.8 litre (R2A)
engaged in the sprockets holes. Recover the
4 Unscrew the two timing cover securing and withdraw the belt (see illustration).
distributor rotor shaft which is held in place by
nuts, and recover the earth tag and the 9 If desired, the camshaft and crankshaft
the camshaft sprocket bolt (see illustration).
coolant hose clip. sprockets can be removed as follows,
5 Unscrew the two securing bolts and otherwise proceed to paragraph 19. The 12 Remove the camshaft sprocket, refitting
withdraw the timing cover (see illustration). coolant pump sprocket is integral with the the bolt part way and using a puller if
6 Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, and using a pump and cannot be removed separately. necessary (see illustration).
10 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt,
socket on the bolt, turn the engine clockwise 13 If desired, the timing belt backplate can
preventing the crankshaft from turning as
until the TDC (top dead centre) lug on the be removed by lifting it from the studs (see
before if necessary, then remove the
crankshaft sprocket is uppermost, and in line illustration) and the timing belt tensioner and
crankshaft sprocket. Refit the bolt part way
with the notch in the oil pump flange, and the coolant pump can be removed.
and use a puller if necessary. Recover the
pointer on the camshaft sprocket is aligned 14 If required, the camshaft oil seal can be
Woodruff key from the end of the crankshaft
with the dot on the cylinder head front face removed using self-tapping screws and a pair
and remove the thrustwasher (see
(see illustrations). of grips. A new seal can be fitted using a
illustrations).
7 Loosen the two timing belt tensioner bolts, suitable tube drift to press it into place.
2C
11 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt while
press the tensioner to the left against the Lubricate the seal lips with clean engine oil
holding the sprocket stationary with a 41 mm
spring tension, and tighten the two bolts to before installation.
ring spanner. Alternatively, make up a tool
retain the tensioner in the released position.
Refitting
similar to that shown for tightening the bolt
8 Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
15 Refit the sprockets as follows.
and hold the sprocket using two bolts
to be re-used, then slip it off the sprockets,
18.10a Remove the crankshaft 18.10b . . . the Woodruff key . . . 18.10c . . . and the thrustwasher -
sprocket . . . 1.8 litre (R2A)
18.11 Removing the camshaft sprocket 18.12 Using a puller to remove the 18.13 Removing the timing belt backplate -
bolt and distributor rotor shaft - camshaft sprocket - 1.8 litre (R2A) 1.8 litre (R2A)
1.8 litre (R2A)
2C•12 CVH engines
28 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
26 and 27 until the belt tension is correct.
29 Refit the timing cover and secure with the
two bolts and nuts. Ensure that the earth tag
and the coolant hose clip are fitted under the
relevant nuts (see illustration).
30 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, then
refit the crankshaft pulley and the bolt and
washer. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, preventing the
crankshaft from turning as described in
paragraph 2.
31 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
18.17 Tightening the camshaft sprocket 18.25 Twisting the timing belt to assess its operations described in paragraph 1.
bolt. Hold the sprocket stationary using an tension - 1.8 litre (R2A)
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
improvised tool with two bolts engaged in
the sprocket holes - 1.8 litre (R2A) 32 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations.
16 Where applicable, refit the timing belt 20 Make sure that the TDC pointer on the
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
tensioner and coolant pump, locate the timing camshaft sprocket is still aligned with the dot
b) Remove the alternator drivebelt.
belt backplate over the studs, then fit the on the cylinder head front face.
c) Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
camshaft sprocket and the distributor rotor 21 Check that the TDC lug on the crankshaft
plugs, noting their locations; detach the
shaft. sprocket is still in line with the notch in the oil
HT lead bracket from the camshaft cover,
17 The camshaft sprocket bolt must be pump flange. If necessary, refit the crankshaft
and position the leads out of the way.
coated with sealant before installation. The pulley bolt, if not already done, and using a
d) Move the coolant hoses from the front of
manufacturers recommend Loctite 74 or 274, socket on the bolt, turn the crankshaft by the
the timing cover, and position them
or Omnifit 30M blue. With the sealant applied, shortest possible route to align the lug and
across the top of the camshaft cover out
insert the bolt, hold the camshaft sprocket notch.
of the way.
stationary as during removal, and tighten the 22 Starting at the crankshaft and working in
e) If desired for improved access, remove
bolt to the specified torque (see illustration). an anti-clockwise direction, fit the timing belt
the fan shroud and the cooling fan
18 Refit the thrustwasher with the convex over the camshaft sprocket, round the
assembly, although this is not essential.
side facing forwards, and refit the Woodruff tensioner roller, and over the coolant pump
33 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to
key, then refit the crankshaft sprocket with the sprocket.
30 inclusive, noting the following differences
“FRONT” mark facing forwards. 23 Slacken the tensioner bolts, allow the
for the 1.6 litre engine (see illustrations).
19 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft tensioner roller to rest against the belt, then
a) There is no sensor toothed disc on the
sprocket, but do not engage it with the other tighten the tensioner bolts.
crankshaft pulley.
sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt, 24 Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, if not
b) A two-piece timing cover is fitted,
and if the old belt is being refitted, observe the already done, and using a socket on the bolt,
previously noted running direction. consisting of upper and lower sections,
turn the engine through two revolutions in a
each secured by two bolts. No earth tag
clockwise direction (to bring No 1 cylinder
or coolant hose clip is fitted to the bolts.
back to TDC), then turn the crankshaft 60º
c) The TDC datum on the oil pump takes the
anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC).
form of a lug instead of a notch.
25 The belt tension should now be checked
d) There is no distributor rotor shaft fitted to
by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21-
the camshaft sprocket bolt.
113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge
e) There is no timing belt backplate.
readings are:
34 On completion, if the engine is in the
Used belt - 4 to 6
vehicle, reverse the operations given in
New belt - 10 to 11
paragraph 32.
If the tension gauge is not available, a rough
guide is that the belt tension is correct when
the belt can be twisted 90º in the middle of the
longest run with the fingers using moderate
pressure (see illustration). In this case, the
vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so
that the belt tension can be checked using the
special gauge at the earliest opportunity.
26 If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensioner
bolts and move the tensioner to increase or
decrease the belt tension. Tighten the
tensioner bolts to the specified torque.
27 Turn the crankshaft 90º clockwise past
TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60º
18.29 Earth tag (1) and coolant hose clip (2)
BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC).
locations on timing cover -
18.27 No 1 cylinder at 60° BTDC for Check the belt tension again (see
1.8 litre (R2A)
checking of timing belt tension - illustration).
1.8 litre (R2A)
CVH engines 2C•13
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side,
ensuring that it is adequately supported (see
illustration).
11 If desired, remove the fuel pump and
operating pushrod.
12 Proceed as described in Section 20 to
complete cylinder head removal.
Refitting
13 With the cylinder head refitted as
described in Section 20, proceed as follows.
14 Where applicable, refit the fuel pump and
operating pushrod.
18.33a Upper timing cover securing bolts 18.33b Removing the upper timing cover -
15 Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
(arrowed) - 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A) 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable.
16 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold, using a new gasket.
17 Reconnect the earth lead to the battery
tray.
18 Refit the spark plugs, then refit the
distributor cap, rotor arm and housing, and
reconnect the HT leads.
19 Refit the air cleaner.
20 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
coolant pump elbow and the cylinder head,
and locate them in the clip on the timing
cover.
21 Fill the cooling system.
22 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
18.33c Removing the lower timing cover - 18.33d Oil pump TDC lug (A) and
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A) crankshaft sprocket lug (B) - 1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
2C
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)
Removal
5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
23 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
19 Cylinder head - removal and plugs and coil, identifying them for position if
24 Drain the cooling system.
necessary, unclip the leads from the camshaft
refitting (engine in vehicle) 25 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
cover, then remove the distributor cap, rotor
thermostat housing, and the bypass hose
arm and housing. Remove the spark plugs.
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of from the left-hand side of the cylinder head,
6 Disconnect the cylinder head earth lead
Section 20 before proceeding. then move them to one side out of the way.
from the battery tray.
26 Remove the air cleaner.
1.8 litre (R2A type) 7 The cylinder head can be removed either with
27 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
or without the manifolds. If desired, the inlet
Removal plugs, identifying them for position if
manifold can be unbolted and moved to one
necessary. Unclip them from the camshaft
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
cover, and move them to one side out of the
2 Drain the cooling system. connected, but care must be taken not to strain
way.
3 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from any of the wires, hoses, pipes or cables.
28 Remove the spark plugs.
the coolant pump elbow, and the coolant 8 Unscrew the three securing nuts and
29 Disconnect the cylinder head earth lead
bypass hose from the left-hand side of the disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
from the battery tray.
cylinder head, then unclip the hoses from the manifoid flange. Recover the gasket.
30 The cylinder head can be removed either
timing cover and move them to one side out 9 If desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
with or without the manifolds. If desired, the
of the way (see illustrations). 10 If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to
4 Remove the air cleaner. the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant
one side (after unbolting the dipstick tube),
19.3a Disconnecting the heater coolant 19.3b Coolant bypass hose connection at 19.10 Withdraw the inlet manifold -
hose from the coolant pump elbow - cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A) 1.8 litre (R2A)
1.8 litre (R2A)
2C•14 CVH engines
19.31 Disconnecting the exhaust gas 20.4 Remove the camshaft cover and 20.6 Withdraw the cylinder head bolts and
oxygen sensor wiring connector - gasket - 1.8 litre (R2A) lift the cylinder head from the block -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A) 1.8 litre (R2A)
leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables 7 Recover the gasket, and the locating
20 Cylinder head - removal and
connected. However, care must be taken not dowels if they are loose (see illustration).
refitting (engine removed)
to strain any of the wires, hoses or cables.
Refitting
31 Disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
Note: The cylinder head bolts must always be 8 Commence refitting as follows.
sensor wiring connector (see illustration)
renewed after slackening, and a new cylinder 9 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
then unscrew the three securing bolts and
head gasket and camshaft cover gasket must approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
be used on refitting. If the engine has recently This precaution will prevent any damage to
manifold flange. Recover the gasket.
run, the cylinder head must be allowed to cool open valves.
32 If desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
to room temperature before it is removed. 10 Make sure that the mating faces of the
33 If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
1.8 litre (R2A type)
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise clean, then refit the locating dowels to the
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side, block where applicable, and locate a new
Removal
ensuring that it is adequately supported. gasket over the dowels with the red sealing
1 With the manifolds removed, proceed as
34 Note the information given in paragraphs bead and the “1.8” mark uppermost (see
follows.
18 to 21 inclusive of Section 20. illustrations). Do not use jointing compound.
2 Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprocket,
Refitting 11 Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
and timing belt backplate.
on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the
35 With the cylinder head refitted, proceed 3 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
dot on the cylinder head front face.
as follows. from the camshaft cover.
12 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket,
36 Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all 4 Unscrew the nine securing bolts and
making sure that the locating dowels engage.
wires, hoses, pipes and cables as applicable. remove the camshaft cover and gasket (see
13 Insert the new cylinder head bolts into
37 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
illustration).
their locations in the cylinder head, then
manifold using a new gasket, and reconnect
5 Unscrew the ten cylinder head bolts half a
tighten the bolts in the order shown to the five
the exhaust gas oxygen sensor wiring
turn at a time in the reverse order to that
connector. stages given in the Specifications (see
shown for tightening.
38 Reconnect the earth lead to the battery illustrations).
6 With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
tray. 14 Fit a new camshaft cover gasket to the
head from the block (see illustration). If the
39 Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the cylinder head, ensuring that the gasket
cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a
HT leads. locates correctly over the edges of the
wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the
40 Refit the air cleaner. cylinder head (see illustration).
joint between the cylinder head and block as
41 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the 15 Refit the camshaft cover and tighten the
thermostat housing and cylinder head. this may result in damage to the mating faces. bolts evenly, ensuring that the studded bolts
42 Fill the cooling system. Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to which retain the HT lead clips are refitted to
43 Reconnect the battery negative lead. prevent damage to the valves. their correct positions (see illustration).
20.7 Recover the cylinder head gasket - 20.10a Fit the locating dowels (arrowed) to 20.10b . . . then locate a new gasket with
1.8 litre (R2A) the block . . . the red sealing bead and “1.8” mark
uppermost - 1.8 litre (R2A)
CVH engines 2C•15
20.13a Cylinder head bolt tightening 20.13b Tighten the cylinder head bolts 20.14 Ensure that the camshaft cover
sequence - 1.8 litre (R2A) using an angle gauge - 1.8 litre (R2A) gasket locates over the edges of the
cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)
20.15 Fit the camshaft cover, ensuring that 20.20a Cylinder head gasket correctly 20.20b Cylinder head bolt tightening
the studded bolts (arrowed) are correctly located - 1.6 litre sequence - 1.6 litre 2C
located - 1.8 litre (R2A) A Locating dowels B Identification teeth
16 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hose oil filter end of the engine, as shown (see 1.8 litre (R2A type)
to the camshaft cover. illustration).
Dismantling
17 Refit the timing belt backplate, camshaft c) Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the
1 With the cylinder head removed, remove
sprocket and timing belt. order shown (see illustration), to the four
the camshaft.
stages given in the Specifications at the
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) 2 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
beginning of this Chapter.
one of the valve springs until the split collets
18 With the manifolds removed, proceed as d) Ignore the reference to the studded
can be removed from the grooves in the valve
follows. camshaft cover bolts. stem. Release the compressor and remove
21 On completion, refit the timing belt.
19 Remove the timing belt. the cap and spring, identifying them for
20 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 3 to 16 location. If the cap is difficult to release, do
not continue to tighten the compressor, but
inclusive, noting the following differences for 21 Cylinder head - dismantling
gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer.
the 1.6 litre engine only: and reassembly
Always make sure that the compressor is
a) Unscrew the cylinder head bolts in the
firmly located on the valve head and the cap
reverse order to that shown for tightening. Note: A valve spring compressor will be (see illustrations).
b) The cylinder head gasket is identified by a required during this procedure. New valve 3 Prise the oil seal from the valve stem, and
single tooth on its edge, and the gasket stem oil seals should be used on remove the spring seat, then withdraw the
valve (see illustrations).
must be fitted with the tooth nearest the reassembly.
21.2a Compress the valve spring . . . 21.2b . . . to free the split collets . . . 21.2c . . . then remove the cap and spring -
1.8 litre (R2A)
2C•16 CVH engines
21.3a Remove the spring seat . . . 21.3b . . . and valve - 1.8 litre (R2A) 21.4 Inlet valve components. Spring
damper arrowed - 1.8 litre (R2A)
4 Unscrew the two securing bolts and
4 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
22 Cylinder head - inspection and
2 and 3 for the remaining valves, keeping all withdraw the camshaft thrustplate from the
renovation
components identified for location so that front of the cylinder head.
they can be refitted in their original positions. 5 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
Note that the inlet valve springs are fitted with front of the cylinder head, taking care not to
Refer to Section 23, Chapter 2, Part A but
metal dampers. The damper is an integral part damage the bearings. If necessary, loosely
pay particular attention to the note at the
of the spring and cannot be removed (see refit the camshaft sprocket and bolt to aid
beginning of the Section as all CVH engines
illustration). removal.
are fitted with hardened valve seats.
Reassembly Inspection
23 Camshaft and cam followers
5 Commence reassembly by lubricating the 6 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
valve stems and guides with SAE 80/90 - removal, inspection and journals and lobes, and the cam follower rollers
hypoid oil, then insert the valves into their for wear. If wear is excessive, considerable
refitting
original guides. noise would have been noticed from the top of
6 Refit the spring seats over the valve stems. the engine when running, and a new camshaft
Note: A new camshaft oil seal and new rocker
7 Wrap a thin layer of adhesive tape over the and followers must be fitted. It is unlikely that
arm securing nuts should be used when
collet grooves of each valve, then smear the this level of wear will occur unless a
refitting.
new oil seals with a little hypoid oil and slide considerable mileage has been covered. Note
1.8 litre (R2A type)
them down the valve stems onto the spring that the cam followers cannot be dismantled
seats. Use a suitable metal tube to seat the for renewal of individual components.
Removal
seals, then remove the adhesive tape from the 7 Check the camshaft bearings in the cylinder
1 Remove the cylinder head.
valves (see illustration). head for wear. If excessive wear is evident, it
2 Unscrew the securing bolts and remove the
8 Working on each valve in turn, fit the valve may be possible to have the head machined by
rocker arm guides, rocker arms, and cam
spring and cap, then compress the spring a suitably equipped engineering workshop to
follower guide retainers, then lift out the cam
using the valve spring compressor and fit the enable a camshaft with oversize bearing
follower guides and the cam followers. Keep
split collets to the groove in the valve stem. journals to be fitted. The only other course of
all components in the correct order so that
Release the compressor and tap the end of action available is renewal of the cylinder head.
each component can be refitted in the original
the valve stem with a soft-faced mallet to 8 Check the cam follower bores in the
position if it is to be re-used. It is advisable to
settle the components. If the original cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
store the cam followers upright in an oil bath
components are being refitted, ensure that evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
until they are to be refitted. Ensure that the
they are refitted in their original locations. 9 Check the cam follower oil ports and the oil
depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover the cam
9 Refit the camshaft. holes in the cylinder head for obstructions
followers. (see illustrations).
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) 3 Prise out the camshaft oil seal, taking care
Refitting
10 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 9 not to damage the surface of the camshaft. If
inclusive, but note that no dampers are fitted 10 Commence refitting by lubricating the
necessary use self-tapping screws and a
to the inlet valve springs on the 1.6 litre engine. camshaft, bearings and thrustplate with
suitable pair of grips to withdraw the seal.
21.7 Seat each new valve seal using a 23.9a Hydraulic cam follower oil port 23.9b Cam follower supply hole (arrowed)
metal tube - 1.8 litre (R2A) (arrowed) - 1.8 litre (R2A) in cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)
CVH engines 2C•17
23.10 Refitting the camshaft - 23.11a Refit the camshaft thrustplate . . . 23.11b . . . and tighten the securing bolts -
1.8 litre (R2A) 1.8 litre (R2A)
11 Locate the thrustplate in the camshaft similar to that shown (see illustration).Draw the
groove, then refit the bolts and tighten them. seal into position so that it rests on the shoulder.
Note that the stamped number on the
thrustplate should face forwards (see The tool can be improvised
illustrations). using a metal tube of
12 Using a dial test indicator if available, or suitable diameter and a large
feeler blades, check that the camshaft washer or metal disc.
endfloat is within the limits given in the
Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate
and re-check. If this does not bring the 15 Lubricate the cam followers with hypoid
endfloat within limits, the camshaft must be oil, refit them to their original locations, with
renewed. the colour marking pointing to the oil feed
13 Remove the thrustplate bolts, coat the hole in the cylinder head. The oil feed port in
23.14 Using a special tool to fit the threads with sealing compound, then refit and the cam follower should be opposite the oil
camshaft oil seal - 1.8 litre (R2A) tighten the bolts. feed hole in the cylinder head (see
2C
14 Smear the lip of the new camshaft oil seal illustrations).
hypoid oil, then carefully insert the camshaft
16 Lubricate the tops of the cam followers,
with clean engine oil, then fit the seal using the
from the front of the cylinder head, taking care
then refit the four cam follower guides to their
camshaft sprocket bolt and a suitable tool
not to damage the bearings (see illustration).
23.15a Hydraulic cam follower and rocker assembly orientation - 1.8 litre (R2A)
1 Cam follower colour markings 5 Rocker arm guide 8 Cam follower guide - stepped end to
2 Oil port in cam follower 6 Rocker arm exhaust side
3 Oil supply hole in cylinder head 7 Cam follower guide retainer - 9 Cam follower
4 Securing bolt stepped end to inlet side 10 Front of engine
2C•18 CVH engines
23.15b Refit the cam followers . . . 23.16 . . . guides . . . 23.17 . . . and retainers - 1.8 litre (R2A)
original locations with their “stepped” ends 24 Unscrew the securing nuts and remove thrustplate must face the front of the engine.
pointing towards the exhaust side of the the rocker arm guides, rocker arms, and 31 Using a dial test indicator (if available) or
cylinder head (see illustration). spacer plates, then lift out the cam followers. feeler blades, check that the camshaft
Keep all components in the correct order so
17 Refit the four cam follower guide retainers endfloat is within the limits given in the
that they can be refitted in their original
to their original locations with their “stepped” Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate
locations on reassembly. It is advisable to
ends pointing towards the inlet side of the
and re-check. If this does not bring the
store the cam followers upright in an oil bath
cylinder head (see illustration).
endfloat within limits, the camshaft must be
until they are to be refitted. Ensure that the
18 Temporarily refit the camshaft sprocket,
renewed.
depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover the cam
and turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
32 Smear the lip of the new camshaft oil seal
followers.
on the sprocket is aligned with the dot on the
with clean engine oil, then refit the seal using
25 Prise out the camshaft oil seal, taking care
cylinder head front face (ie the pointer is at the
not to damage the surface of the camshaft. If the camshaft sprocket bolt and a suitable
12 o’clock position).
necessary, use self-tapping screws and a tool. The tool can be improvised using a metal
19 Refit rocker arms Nos 1, 2, 4 and 5
suitable pair of grips to withdraw the seal. tube of suitable diameter and a large washer
together with their rocker arm guides and
26 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
securing bolts, to their original locations (see or metal disc. Draw the seal into position so
withdraw the camshaft thrustplate from the
illustration). Lubricate the contact faces of that it rests on the shoulder.
front of the cylinder head.
the rocker arms and guides and the valve 33 Lubricate the cam followers with hypoid
27 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
stems with hypoid oil, and ensure that the oil, then refit them to their original locations in
front of the cylinder head, taking care not to
guides seat correctly in their locations in the the cylinder head.
damage the bearings. If necessary, loosely
cylinder head (see illustration). Tighten the 34 Before each rocker arm is fitted and its
refit the camshaft sprocket and bolt to aid
securing bolts to the specified torque.
(new) nut tightened, it is essential to ensure
removal.
20 Turn the camshaft through 180º so that
that the relevant cam follower is positioned at
Inspection
the camshaft sprocket keyway is aligned with
its lowest point (in contact with the cam base
the dot on the cylinder head front face (ie the 28 Proceed as described in paragraphs 6 to
circle, not the tip of the cam lobe). Turn the
9 inclusive.
TDC pointer on the sprocket is at the 6
camshaft (by means of the camshaft sprocket
o’clock position) (see illustration). Refitting
bolt if necessary) as necessary to achieve this.
21 Repeat the procedure given in paragraph
29 Commence refitting by lubricating the 35 Lubricate the tops of the cam followers,
19 for rocker arms Nos 3, 6, 7 and 8.
camshaft, bearings and thrustplate with
then refit the spacer plates, rocker arms and
22 Remove the camshaft sprocket and refit
hypoid oil, then carefully insert the camshaft
the cylinder head. rocker arm guides to their original locations.
from the front of the cylinder head, taking care
36 Secure the rocker arms using new nuts
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) not to damage the bearings.
tightened to the specified torque, bearing in
30 Locate the thrustplate in position in the
Removal mind the point made in paragraph 34.
cylinder head, then refit the bolts and tighten
23 Remove the cylinder head. them. Note that the oil groove in the 37 Refit the cylinder head.
23.19a Rocker arm numbering sequence - 23.19b Lubricate the valve stem contact 23.20 Camshaft sprocket keyway aligned
1.8 litre (R2A) faces and refit the rocker arms and guides with dot on cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)
- 1.8 litre (R2A)
CVH engines 2C•19
24 Flywheel/driveplate - removal,
inspection and refitting
Note: New flywheel securing bolts must be
used on refitting.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1 Refer to Section 26, Chapter 2, Part A but
also note the following points.
2 The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must
be renewed when refitting, and the new bolts
are supplied ready-coated with threadlocking
24.2 Using an improvised tool to hold the 25.4 Using a special tool to fit the
compound (see illustration).
flywheel stationary while tightening the crankshaft front oil seal - 1.8 litre (R2A)
3 The ring gear cannot be renewed
securing bolts - 1.8 litre (R2A)
independently of the flywheel/driveplate. If the
ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, a screws and a pair of grips to withdraw the
new flywheel/driveplate must be fitted. A tool can be improvised to fit seal (see illustration).
the crankshaft front oil seal 3 Clean the oil seal housing, then fit the new
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
oil seal using two flywheel/driveplate securing
by using a metal tube of
4 Refer to Section 26, Chapter 2, Part A, bolts and a tool similar to that shown (see
suitable diameter and a large
noting the following points. illustration). A suitable tool can be
washer or metal disc. Do not attempt to
5 If the engine is in the vehicle, refer to improvised using a narrow strip of metal sheet
drive the seal home using a tube drift.
Chapter 6 when removing the clutch. bent to form a circle of the correct diameter,
6 The flywheel securing bolts must be and a large metal disc with appropriate holes
5 As the seal is drawn into position, the inner
renewed when refitting, and the new bolts are drilled to allow the flywheel/driveplate
edge of the seal may be damaged as it passes
supplied ready-coated with thread-locking securing bolts to pass through. Make sure
over the end of the shaft. To prevent this, as
compound. that the seal lip faces into the engine and
soon as the seal begins to locate in the
7 The ring gear cannot be renewed lightly smear the lip with clean engine oil.
housing remove the tools being used to fit the
independently of the flywheel. If the ring gear 4 Refit the flywheel/driveplate.
seal, and carefully work the inner edge of the
is badly worn or has missing teeth, a new
2C
seal over the end of the crankshaft, using a
flywheel must be fitted. Similarly, the flywheel
small screwdriver or similar blunt tool. The
27 Sump - removal and refitting
must be renewed if the crankshaft
seal can then be pushed home using the tools
speed/position sensor toothed disc is
described previously (see illustration).
damaged.
6 Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft sprocket Note: A new gasket and new sump bolts must
be used when refitting, and suitable sealant will
and timing belt.
25 Crankshaft front oil seal - be required (available from a Ford dealer). Note
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
renewal that it is preferable to keep the engine upright
until the sump has been removed to prevent
7 Remove the timing belt, and the crankshaft
sludge from entering the engine internals.
sprocket and thrustwasher.
1.8 litre (R2A type) 8 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 4 1.8 litre (R2A type)
1 Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft inclusive.
sprocket and thrustwasher. Removal
9 Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft sprocket
2 Withdraw the oil seal using an oil seal and timing belt. 1 With the engine removed, proceed as
removal tool or by drilling the oil seal outer follows.
face and using self-tapping screws and a pair 2 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
26 Crankshaft rear oil seal -
of grips. engine adapter plate.
renewal
3 Clean the oil seal housing, then smear the 3 Unscrew the fourteen securing bolts and
lip of a new oil seal with clean engine oil. withdraw the two reinforcing strips and the
4 Fit the oil seal using the crankshaft pulley 1 Remove the flywheel/driveplate. sump. If the sump is stuck, carefully tap it
bolt and a suitable tool similar to that shown 2 Prise out the oil seal. If necessary, drill the sideways to free it. Do not prise between the
mating faces.
(see illustration). outer face of the oil seal and use self-tapping
25.5 Crankshaft front oil seal (arrowed) 26.2 Crankshaft rear oil seal location 26.3 Using a special tool to fit the
located in oil pump housing - 1.8 litre (R2A) (arrowed) crankshaft rear oil seal - 1.8 litre (R2A)
2C•20 CVH engines
27.6 Apply sealing compound to the areas 27.7 Ensure that the gasket locates 27.10 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
shown before fitting the sump gasket - correctly on the oil pump housing - 1.8 litre (R2A)
1.8 litre (R2A) 1.8 litre (R2A)
20 Locate the sump on the gasket, taking
4 Recover the gasket. type) engine, proceed as described above for
care not to displace the gasket, then loosely
5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the the 1.8 litre (R2A type).
fit the securing bolts. With the sump in
cylinder block and sump. Removal
position, where applicable remove the studs
Refitting 12 Sump removal and refitting is easier if the from the bolt holes, and loosely fit the
6 Commence refitting by applying sealing engine is removed from the vehicle. However, remaining securing bolts.
if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to 21 Tighten the bolts to the torque given in the
follows. If the engine has been removed from
the cylinder block, oil pump housing and Specifications at the beginning of this
the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 15.
crankshaft rear oil seal housing mating faces Chapter, in two stages, and in the sequence
13 Remove the clutch.
at the points shown (see illustration). Note shown (see illustration).
14 Drain the engine oil into a suitable
that the sump must be fitted within ten 22 Refit the engine adapter plate and the
container.
minutes of applying the sealing compound. flywheel.
15 Remove the flywheel and the engine
7 Fit a new gasket, ensuring that it engages 23 If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the
adapter plate.
correctly in the grooves in the crankshaft rear clutch. Refill the engine with oil.
16 Unscrew the eighteen securing bolts and
oil seal carrier and the oil pump housing (see
withdraw the sump. If the sump is stuck,
illustration).
28 Oil pump - removal and
carefully tap it sideways to free it. Do not prise
8 Locate the sump on the gasket and loosely
refitting
between the mating faces. Recover the
fit the securing bolts.
gasket.
9 Tighten all the bolts slightly to obtain a light
17 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
and even gasket preload. Note: New oil pump and oil pick-up tube
cylinder block and sump.
10 Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in gaskets should be used when refitting.
the sequence shown (see illustration). Note Refitting Removal
that the ten M8 bolts and the four M6 bolts
18 Apply sealing compound to the joints 1 With the engine removed, proceed as
are tightened to different torques.
between the oil pump and the cylinder block, follows.
11 Refit the engine adapter plate and the
and the crankshaft rear oil seal housing and 2 Remove the timing belt, crankshaft
flywheel/driveplate.
the cylinder block, as shown (see sprocket and thrustwasher.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) illustration). 3 Remove the sump.
19 Without applying any further sealer, locate 4 Unscrew and remove the nut securing the
Note: The following procedure applies to the
the gasket into the grooves of the oil pump oil strainer/pick-up tube to No 4 main bearing
1.6 litre CVH engine. For the 1.8 litre (R6A
and the rear oil seal housing. To hold the cap (see illustration).
gasket in position, studs can be inserted 5 Using a suitable Allen key, unscrew the two
temporarily in the bolt hole positions circled in bolts securing the oil pick-up tube to the oil
the illustration indicating the bolt tightening pump, and withdraw the oil strainer/pick-up
sequence. Make sure that the gasket spacing tube. Recover the washers and gasket (see
pips are seated correctly. illustration).
27.18 Apply sealing compound at the
points arrowed before refitting the sump -
1.6 litre
A Oil pump/cylinder block joint
B Crankshaft rear oil seal 27.21 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
housing/cylinder block joint 28.4 Oil strainer/pick-up tube securing nut
1.6 litre
(arrowed) on No 4 main bearing cap
Arrow indicates front of engine
CVH engines 2C•21
the marks made when dismantling, if
applicable.
8 The necessary clearances may now be
checked using a machined straight-edge
(such as a good steel rule) and a set of feeler
blades. The critical clearances are between
the lobes of the centre rotor and convex faces
of the outer rotor; between the outer rotor and
pump body; and between both rotors and the
cover plate (endfloat). The serviceable
clearances are given in the Specifications.
9 Endfloat can be measured by placing a
straight-edge across the pump body and
28.5 Removing the oil pick-up tube from 28.9 Refitting the oil pump measuring the clearance between the two
the oil pump rotors and the straight-edge using feeler
blades.
6 Unscrew and remove the six securing bolts, 11 Refit the oil strainer/pick-up tube securing
10 Refit the pump cover and tighten the
and withdraw the oil pump over the front of nut to No 4 main bearing cap.
securing bolts.
the crankshaft. Recover the gasket. 12 Refit the sump.
11 Prime the pump before refitting.
13 Fit the crankshaft front oil seal using a
Refitting
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
suitable tool.
7 Commence refitting by prising the 14 Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft 12 The procedure is as described above but
crankshaft front oil seal from the pump sprocket and timing belt.
refer to the Specifications at the beginning of
housing.
this Chapter for the rotor clearances.
8 Prime the pump by injecting clean engine
29 Oil pump - dismantling,
oil into it and turning it by hand.
inspection and reassembly
9 Using a new gasket, fit the oil pump over 30 Pistons and connecting rods
the front of the crankshaft, ensuring that the
- removal and refitting
central rotor engages with the flats on the
1.8 litre (R2A type)
crankshaft (see illustration). Fit the securing
1.8 litre (R2A type)
bolts, and using a straight-edge, ensure that 1 If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
the bottom face of the oil pump is aligned with cost and availability of new parts and the cost
2C
Removal
the bottom face of the cylinder block before of a new pump. Examine the pump as
finally tightening the bolts. described in this Section and then decide 1 With the engine removed from the vehicle,
10 Using a new gasket, fit the oil pick-up whether renewal or repair is the best course of remove the sump and the cylinder head.
action.
tube to the oil pump and secure with the two 2 Check the big-end caps for identification
2 Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the
bolts. marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to
seven securing bolts and remove the oil pump identify the caps and connecting rods (see
cover (see illustration). illustration).
3 Mark the rotor faces so that the rotors can 3 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
be refitted in their original positions, then lift at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts or
the rotors from the pump housing (see bolts and tap off the cap. Keep the bearing
illustration). shells in the cap and connecting rod.
4 Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug and 4 Using the handle of a hammer, push the
withdraw the spring and plunger (see piston and connecting rod up the bore and
illustration). withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
5 Thoroughly clean all parts in petrol or Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod.
paraffin and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag. 5 Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and
6 Commence reassembly by lubricating the 4 on No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and spring, turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
and screw the plug into place. repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
7 Lubricate the rotors and fit them, observing and connecting rods.
29.2 Remove the oil pump cover
29.3 Lifting out the oil pump inner rotor 29.4 Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug 30.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod
and withdraw the spring and plunger identification marks (arrowed) -
1.8 litre (R2A)
2C•22 CVH engines
30.8 Bearing shell lug (arrowed) must 30.10a Cut-out (arrowed) in piston 30.10b . . . and lug (arrowed) on piston skirt
engage with groove in big-end cap - crown . . . must face the front of the engine
1.8 litre (R2A)
Refitting
6 Commence refitting as follows.
7 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses in the connecting rods and big-
end caps.
8 Press the bearing shells into the connecting
rods and caps in their correct positions and oil
them liberally. Note that the lugs must be
adjacent to each other (see illustration).
9 Lubricate the cylinder bores with engine oil.
10 Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston then
insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest
30.10c Connecting rod oil hole (arrowed) 30.10d Fitting a piston and connecting rod
point, drive the piston carefully into the
must face inlet manifold side of engine - into the cylinder bore - 1.8 litre (R2A)
cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer,
1.8 litre (R2A)
and at the same time guide the connecting
rod onto the crankpin. The piston must be 1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) the pistons (see illustration). Note that the oil
fitted with the cut-out in the piston crown (and control ring is in three sections.
15 The procedure is as described above,
the lug on the piston skirt), facing the front of
noting the following points:
the engine, with the oil hole in the connecting The use of two or three old
a) On the 1.6 litre engine, when refitting a
rod on the inlet manifold side of the engine feeler blades will be helpful
piston/connecting rod assembly, the
(see illustrations). in preventing the rings
piston must be fitted with the arrow on
11 Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end dropping into empty grooves.
the piston crown and the cast pip on the
bearing cap in its previously noted position,
piston skirt facing the front (timing belt
and tighten the nuts or bolts to the specified 4 Before fitting the piston rings, clean out the
end) of the engine (see illustration).
torque. piston ring grooves using a piece of old piston
b) On the 1.6 litre engine, the big-end
12 Check that the crankshaft turns freely. ring as a scraper. Be careful not to scratch the
bearing caps locate on dowels in the
13 Repeat the procedure given in aluminium surface of the pistons. Protect your
connecting rods, and can only be fitted in
paragraphs 11 to 12 inclusive on the fingers - piston ring edges are sharp. Also
one position.
remaining pistons. probe the groove oil return holes.
14 Refit the cylinder head and the sump. 5 Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of
31 Pistons and connecting rods
the piston. The side ring gaps should be 25
- examination and renovation
mm (1.0 in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1 Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring,
and scratches. Check the connecting rods for
wear or damage.
2 The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in
the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to
be fitted to the existing connecting rods the
work should be carried out by a Ford dealer
who will have the necessary tooling. Note that
the oil hole in the connecting rod must be
located on the right-hand side of the piston
(the cut-out in the piston crown and the lug on
the piston skirt face forwards).
31.3 Using an old feeler gauge to aid the
3 If new rings are to be fitted to the existing
30.15 The arrow (A) and the cast pip (B) fitting of a piston ring - 1.8 litre (R2A)
pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
must face the front of the engine - 1.6 litre
CVH engines 2C•23
8 Fit the oil control ring sections with the inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrust bearing shell
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of
(see illustration). This will indicate whether a
the piston, making sure that the ends do not
new thrust bearing shell is required.
overlap. The side ring gaps should be offset
7 Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
120º either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
tapered lower compression ring with the
8 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase.
“TOP” mark uppermost and the gap 120º
9 Extract the bearing shells, keeping them
from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
identified for location.
compression ring with the gap 120º on the
Refitting
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
compression rings are coated with a 10 Commence refitting as follows.
molybdenum disulphide skin, which must not 11 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
be damaged. crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag.
32.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat - 12 Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft,
1.8 litre (R2A) non-fluffy rag.
32 Crankshaft and main bearings
13 If the old main bearing shells are to be
- removal and refitting
the tapered lower compression ring with the
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
“TOP” mark towards the top of the piston and
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
the gap 150º from the spreader gap, then fit
halves of the main bearing shells to their
1.8 litre (R2A type)
the upper compression ring with the gap 150º
location in the crankcase. Note the flanged
on the other side of the spreader gap. Note Removal thrust bearing shell should be fitted to the
that the compression rings are coated with a centre bearing location (see illustrations).
1 With the engine removed from the vehicle,
molybdenum skin which must not be 14 Identify each main bearing cap and place
remove the timing belt, crankshaft sprocket
damaged. in order. The number is cast on to the cap and
and thrustwasher.
an arrow is also marked which should point
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
towards the front of the engine.
no work is to be done on the pistons and
6 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 5 15 Wipe the cap bearing shell location with a
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
inclusive, but note the following differences soft non-fluffy rag.
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
for the 1.6 litre engine. 16 Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
3 Remove the oil pump and pick-up tube.
7 Before fitting the new rings to the pistons, bearing cap.
4 Unscrew the four securing bolts and
insert them into the relevant cylinder bore and 17 Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
remove the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
2C
use a feeler blade to check that the end gaps upper and lower main bearing shells with
5 Check the main bearing caps for
are within the limits given in the Specifications clean engine oil.
identification marks and if necessary use a
at the beginning of this Chapter. Check the 18 Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
centre-punch to identify them.
end gaps with the ring at the top and the crankcase (see illustration).
6 Before removing the crankshaft, check that
bottom of the cylinder bore. 19 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
journals again, then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.
20 Fit the rear bearing cap, then the centre
bearing cap, but as before do not tighten the
bolts yet.
21 Fit the intermediate bearing caps and
securing bolts, noting that the studded bolt
which retains the oil strainer/pick-up tube fits
on the inlet manifold side of No 4 bearing cap.
Again, do not tighten the bolts yet.
22 Check that the arrows on the bearing
caps all point towards the front of the engine,
and lightly tighten all the bearing cap bolts,
then finally tighten the bolts in a progressive
manner to the specified torque (see
32.13a Rear main bearing shell in cylinder 32.13b Centre main thrust bearing shell in
illustrations).
block - 1.8 litre (R2A) cylinder block - 1.8 litre (R2A)
32.18 Lowering the crankshaft into the 32.22a The arrows on the bearing caps 32.22b Tightening a main bearing cap bolt.
crankcase - 1.8 litre (R2A) must point towards the front of the engine Note studded bolt location (arrowed) on
- 1.8 litre (R2A) No 4 bearing cap - 1.8 litre (R2A)
2C•24 CVH engines
the running clearance compared with that
given in the Specifications.
6 If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
crankshaft requires renewal extract it with a
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy
grease and use a close fitting metal dowel
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
metal drift.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
7 Proceed as described above but note that if
the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, new
32.25 Fit the crankshaft rear oil seal 34.1 Removing the crankcase ventilation
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
housing and tighten the securing bolts - baffle
main bearing.
1.8 litre (R2A)
23 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely. 33 Crankshaft and bearings -
34 Cylinder block and bores -
Some stiffness is to be expected with new examination and renovation
examination and renovation
components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
24 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is Refer to Section 36, Chapter 2, Part A but
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler note that the crankcase ventilation baffle
1 Examine the bearing surfaces of the
blade between the centre crankshaft web and should be removed from its location at the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
the thrust bearing cap. rear of the cylinder block and cleaned if
a micrometer, check each journal and
25 Lubricate the oil seal lip with clean engine necessary (see illustration).
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
oil, then carefully fit the crankshaft rear oil seal in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
housing. Using a straight-edge, ensure that crankshaft will have to be reground and 35 Initial start-up after overhaul or
the bottom face of the oil seal housing is undersize bearings fitted. major repair
aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder 2 Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
block before finally tightening the securing by a suitable engineering works, who will Refer to Section 37, Chapter 2, Part A.
bolts (see illustration). normally supply the matching undersize main
26 Carefully prise the crankshaft front oil seal and big-end shell bearings.
from the oil pump housing, then refit the oil 3 Note that undersize bearings may already
pump, oil strainer/pick-up tube and have been fitted either in production or by a
crankshaft front oil seal. previous repairer. Check the markings on the
27 Refit the pistons and connecting rods. backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
28 Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft take them along when buying new ones.
sprocket and timing belt. 4 If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, a new thrust
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
bearing shell should be fitted to the centre
29 Proceed as described above, noting the
main bearing.
following point:
5 An accurate method of determining bearing
On the 1.6 litre engine, note that
wear is by the use of Plastigage. The
thrustwashers are used at the centre main
crankshaft is located in the main bearings
bearing (one each side of the bearing)
(and big-end bearings if necessary) and the
instead of a thrust bearing shell to control
Plastigage filament located across the journal
crankshaft endfloat. Oversize
which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and
thrustwashers are available to
the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
compensate for wear if necessary. The
torque. On removal of the cap the width of the
thrustwashers should be fitted with the oil
filament is checked with a plastic gauge and
grooves visible
3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Radiator upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 15 to 18
Radiator lower mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9
Coolant pump bolts:
SOHC models:
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15
M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 42 26 to 31
CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
CVH (R6A type) models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Thermostat housing bolts:
SOHC/DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 20 13 to 15
CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
CVH (R6A type) models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9
Cooling fan shroud-to-radiator nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
Coolant pump pulley bolts:
SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner bolt:
CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 30 17 to 22
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 52 to 72
Cooling fan blades-to-fan hub bolts (SOHC models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7
Air conditioning compressor-to-bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 to 75 48 to 55
Air conditioning compressor bracket-to-engine bolts:
M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 92 63 to 68
M12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 120 81 to 89
Air conditioning condenser fan assembly-to-condenser bolts:
Models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3 1 to 2
Models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
Air conditioning condenser securing bolts (models from 1987) . . . . . . . 27 to 33 20 to 24
the coolant passes from the thermostat
temperature and engine speed. The fan is
1 General information and housing to the expansion tank, but the main
therefore only operating when required, and
circulation is through the inlet manifold,
compared with direct-drive type fans
precautions
automatic choke (where applicable), and
represents a considerable improvement in fuel
heater matrix, finally returning to the coolant
economy, drivebelt wear and fan noise.
General information pump. When the coolant reaches a
The electrically-operated fan is switched on
predetermined temperature, the thermostat
by a temperature sensor mounted in the
The cooling system is of pressurised type,
opens and hot water passes through the top
thermostat housing when the temperature
and consists of a front mounted radiator,
hose to the top of the radiator. As the coolant
reaches a predetermined level. The fan is
coolant pump, cooling fan, wax type
circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by
therefore only operating when required, and like
thermostat, and an expansion tank.
the flow of air to the vehicle’s forward motion,
the thermo-viscous fan, offers a considerable
The radiator matrix is manufactured from
supplemented by the action of the cooling fan
advantage over direct-drive type fans.
honeycombed metal, and the end tanks are
where necessary. By the time it reaches the
A thermostat is fitted. Its purpose is to
made of plastic. On automatic transmission
bottom of the radiator the coolant is cooled,
ensure rapid engine warm-up by restricting
models, the right-hand end tank incorporates
and the cycle is repeated. Circulation of
the flow of coolant to the engine when cold
the transmission fluid cooler.
coolant continues through the expansion
and also to assist in regulating the normal
The coolant pump is located on the front
tank, inlet manifold, automatic choke (where
operating temperature of the engine.
face of the engine block, and is belt-driven.
applicable) and heater at all times, the heater
The expansion tank incorporates a pressure
The pump is of the impeller type.
temperature being controlled by an air flap.
cap which effectively pressurises the cooling
The cooling fan draws cold air over the
An air conditioning system is available as
system as the coolant temperature rises,
radiator matrix to assist the cooling process
an optional extra on certain models. In
thereby increasing the boiling point of the
when the forward speed of the vehicle is too
conjunction with the heater, the system
coolant. The tank also has a further degas
low to provide sufficient cooling airflow, or the
enables any reasonable air temperature to be
function. Any accumulation of air bubbles in the
ambient temperature is unusually high. SOHC
achieved inside the vehicle; it also reduces
coolant is returned to the tank and released in
models have a thermo-viscous fan, whereas
the humidity of the incoming air, aiding
the air space, thus maintaining the efficiency of
CVH and DOHC models have an
demisting even when cooling is not required.
the coolant. The pressure cap also incorporates
electrically-operated fan.
The refrigeration side of the air conditioning
a vacuum relief valve which prevents a vacuum
The thermo-viscous fan is controlled by the
system functions in a similar way to a
forming in the system as it cools.
temperature of the air behind the radiator.
domestic refrigerator. A compressor, belt-
The system functions as follows. Cold
When the air temperature reaches a
driven from the crankshaft pulley, draws
coolant in the bottom of the radiator circulates
predetermined level, a bi-metallic coil
refrigerant in its gaseous phase from an
through the bottom hose to the coolant pump
commences to open a valve within the unit,
evaporator. The compressed refrigerant
where the pump impeller pushes the coolant
and silicon fluid is fed through a system of
passes through a condenser where it loses
through the passages within the cylinder
vanes. Half the vanes are driven directly by
heat and enters its liquid phase. After passing
block, cylinder head and inlet manifold. After
the coolant pump, and the remaining half are
through the dehydrator, which acts as a
cooling the cylinder bores, combustion
connected to the fan blades. The vanes are
reservoir and filter to extract moisture from
chambers and valve seats, the coolant
arranged so that drive is transmitted to the fan
the circuit, the refrigerant returns to the
reaches the underside of the thermostat
blades in relation to the viscosity of the silicon
evaporator where it absorbs heat from the air
which is initially closed. A small proportion of
fluid, and this in turn depends on ambient
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3
passing over the evaporator fins on its way to
the vehicle interior. The refrigerant becomes a
gas again and the cycle is repeated.
Various subsidiary controls and sensors
protect the system against excessive
temperature and pressures. Additionally,
engine idle speed is increased when the
system is in use to compensate for the
additional load imposed by the compressor.
Precautions
Air conditioning refrigerant
Although the refrigerant is not itself toxic, in
the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted 5.9 Unscrew the fan shroud/radiator 5.10a Radiator and cooling fan shroud
cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid retaining nuts upper mountings
refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause
A Radiator mounting nut
frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse
B Shroud securing screw
them with a dilute solution of boric acid and
5 Radiator - removal and refitting C Shroud securing clips
seek medical advice immediately.
D Radiator top hose clip
In view of the above points, and of the need
for specialised equipment for evacuating and 11 On all later models, the radiator is secured
Removal
recharging the system, any work which
to the engine compartment front panel using
requires the disconnection of a refrigerant line 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. clips and locking pegs. To release the top of
must be left to a specialist. 2 Drain the cooling system. the radiator, work through the cut-outs in the
Do not allow refrigerant lines to be exposed 3 If not already done, disconnect the bottom engine compartment front panel and remove
to temperatures above 230°F (110°C) - eg
hose from the radiator. the two radiator upper locking pegs (see
during welding or paint drying operations and
4 Disconnect the top hose and the expansion illustration). Working under the front of the
do not operate the air conditioning system if it
tank hose from the radiator.
vehicle, remove the two radiator lower
is known to be short of refrigerant, or further
5 On automatic transmission models, place a
damage may result. mounting bolts. Support the radiator from
suitable container beneath the fluid cooler
underneath. Squeeze the upper radiator
Antifreeze mixture pipe connections at the radiator. Unscrew the
locking pegs to release them from the engine
Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out union and plug the upper pipe, then repeat
compartment front panel and lower the
of reach of children and pets. Wash splashes the procedure on the lower pipe.
radiator assembly from the vehicle.
off skin and clothing with plenty of water. 6 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
Wash splashes off vehicle paintwork to avoid 3
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Refitting
discolouration. “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewed 7 To improve access, remove the cooling fan
at the specified intervals to preserve its anti- in mind the following points.
shroud as follows, according to model.
corrosive properties. In climates where 13 Refill the cooling system.
8 On SOHC models, remove the four
antifreeze protection is unnecessary, a 14 On automatic transmission models, check
retaining clips and unscrew the two retaining
corrosion inhibitor may be used instead - and if necessary top-up the transmission fluid
screws, then withdraw the upper section of
consult a Ford dealer. Never run the engine the fan shroud. Unclip and remove the lower level.
for long periods with plain water as coolant. section of the shroud.
Only use the specified antifreeze as inferior 9 On CVH and DOHC models, unclip the
6 Radiator - inspection and
brands may not contain the necessary wiring connector from the fan motor(s) then
corrosion inhibitors, or may break down at cleaning
unscrew the retaining nuts and washers, and
high temperatures. Antifreeze containing
withdraw the fan shroud(s) and cooling fan
methanol is particularly to be avoided, as the 1 If the radiator has been removed because
assembly(s) (see illustration).
methanol evaporates.
of suspected blockage, reverse-flush it.
10 On early models, unscrew and remove the
The specified mixture is 45 to 50%
upper radiator mounting nuts and washers 2 Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins
antifreeze and 50 to 55% clean soft water (by
(see illustration). Unscrew and remove the using an air jet or water and a soft brush. Be
volume). Mix the required quantity in a clean
lower mounting bolts and washers and careful not to damage the fins or cut your
container.
withdraw the radiator from under the vehicle fingers.
(see illustration).
2 Cooling system - draining
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 46.
3 Cooling system - flushing
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 46.
4 Cooling system - filling
5.10b Lower radiator mounting bolt 5.11Removing a radiator upper locking peg
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 46.
3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
7.4a Radiator top hose connection at 7.4b Disconnect the expansion tank hose 7.6a Prise out the retaining clip . . .
thermostat housing from the thermostat housing
7.6b . . . and extract the thermostat . . . 7.6c . . . and sealing ring 7.9 Thermostat flow direction markings
(arrowed)
3 A radiator specialist can perform a “flow housing situated at the front of the cylinder cooling fan switch on the thermostat housing
test” on the radiator to establish whether an head (see illustrations). situated at the front of the inlet manifold.
5 Unscrew the two securing bolts and
internal blockage exists. 12 Disconnect the automatic choke hose,
remove the housing and gasket.
4 A leaking radiator must be referred to a radiator top hose and expansion tank hose
6 Using a screwdriver, prise the retaining clip from the thermostat housing. Where
specialist for permanent repair. Do not
from the housing, and extract the thermostat applicable, take care not to strain the wiring
attempt to weld or solder a leaking radiator,
and sealing ring (see illustrations). which is routed around the housing. If
as damage to the plastic parts may result.
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in necessary, disconnect the wiring connector
5 In an emergency, minor leaks from the
mind the following points. (see illustrations).
radiator can be cured by using a sealant.
8 Clean the housing and the mating face of 13 Unscrew the three securing bolts and
the cylinder head. Check the thermostat remove the housing and gasket (see
7 Thermostat - removal and sealing ring for condition and renew it if illustration).
refitting necessary. Use a new gasket when refitting 14 Lift the thermostat from the housing, and
the housing. carefully prise out the sealing ring.
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 9 The thermostat wax capsule must face into 15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
2 Drain the cooling system. the cylinder head with the flow direction arrow in mind the following points.
3 Proceed as follows according to model: facing forward (see illustration). 16 Clean the housing and the mating face of
10 Refill the cooling system. the inlet manifold. Check the thermostat
SOHC models
sealing ring for condition and renew it if
CVH models
4 Disconnect the radiator top hose and necessary. Use a new gasket when refitting
expansion tank hose from the thermostat 11 Disconnect the wiring plug from the the housing.
7.12a Disconnect the automatic choke 7.12b . . . the radiator top hose . . . 7.12c . . . and the expansion tank hose
hose . . .
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5
7.13 Removing the thermostat housing and 7.17 Correct orientation of thermostat with 7.20a Disconnect the coolant hoses . . .
gasket flow direction arrow pointing towards
pressure relief valve
17 Note that the thermostat wax capsule 2 Gradually heat the water, and using a
necessary to prise the thermostat out, take
must face into the inlet manifold, with the flow thermometer with a range of at least 100ºC,
care not to damage the surface of the housing
direction arrow pointing forward, in line with note the temperature at which the thermostat
in the inlet manifold.
the pressure relief valve in the housing (see starts to open.
24 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
illustration). 3 Remove the thermostat from the water and
in mind the following points.
18 Refill the cooling system. check that it is fully closed when cold.
25 Ensure that the O-ring seal is correctly
4 Renew the thermostat if the opening
DOHC models fitted around the edge of the thermostat.
temperature is not as given in the
19 On fuel injection models, for access to the 26 When fitting the thermostat to the inlet
Specifications, or if the unit does not fully
thermostat housing loosen the clips and manifold, ensure that the relief valve is located
close when cold.
remove the air inlet tube which connects the in the 12 o’clock position (see illustration).
plenum chamber to the inlet manifold. 27 Tighten the thermostat housing securing
20 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the bolts to the specified torque. 9 Coolant pump - removal and
thermostat housing (see illustrations). 28 Refill the cooling system. refitting
21 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
cooling fan switch mounted in the thermostat
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
8 Thermostat - testing
housing (see illustration).
2 Drain the cooling system.
22 Unscrew the three securing bolts, and
3 Proceed as follows according to model:
withdraw the thermostat housing (see
3
1 To test the thermostat, suspend it by a
illustration). SOHC models
piece of string in a container of water (see
23 Manipulate the thermostat from the inlet
4 Disconnect the heater and radiator bottom
illustration).
manifold, and recover the O-ring. If it is
hoses from the coolant pump.
5 Remove the thermo-viscous fan (Section 12).
6 If not already done, remove the coolant
pump drivebelt, then unscrew the four
retaining bolts and remove the coolant pump
pulley. If necessary, the pulley can be
prevented from turning using a strap wrench.
Holding the pulley can be
improvised using an old
drivebelt, and a suitable
socket and wrench.
7.20b . . . from the thermostat housing 7.21 Disconnect the cooling fan switch 7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
wiring plug
7.22 Withdrawing the thermostat housing 7.26 Thermostat relief valve (arrowed) 8.1 Testing the thermostat opening
should be in the 12 o’clock position temperature
3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
9.8 Location of the alternator adjusting 9.15 Disconnect the coolant elbow from 9.20 Remove the timing belt tensioner
link under the right-hand retaining bolt the coolant pump
14 Refill the cooling system.
8 Unscrew the three retaining bolts and DOHC models
remove the coolant pump and gasket from the
CVH models Note: Before proceeding, take note of the
front of the cylinder block. Note that on
following modifications: On models up to May
15 Unscrew the two securing nuts, and
certain models, the alternator adjusting link is
1990, the coolant hoses were connected to the
disconnect the coolant elbow from the
secured by the right-hand retaining bolt (see
coolant pump housing as shown (see
illustration). left-hand side of the coolant pump (see
illustration). On models from May 1990, the
9 If the coolant pump is faulty, it must be illustration).
heater hose (A) and the expansion tank hose (B)
renewed, as it is not possible to obtain 16 Remove the timing belt.
connections were swapped over. If the hoses
individual components. 17 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt and
are disconnected on earlier models,they should
10 Before refitting, clean the mating faces of withdraw the distributor drive sleeve.
be reconnected as on later models, ie connect
the coolant pump and cylinder block. 18 Screw the camshaft sprocket bolt part
the heater hose to connection “B”, and connect
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing way back into the end of the camshaft, and
the expansion tank hose to connection “A”.
in mind the following points. using a suitable puller, pull the sprocket from
This will prevent the possibility of noises from
12 Use a new gasket, and tighten the the camshaft.
the heater matrix due to air in the system.
retaining bolts to the specified torque. 19 Remove the plastic rear timing belt cover.
29 On fuel injection models, for access to the
13 Before fitting the coolant pump pulley, 20 Unscrew the two retaining bolts, and
coolant pump, remove the air inlet hose,
ensure that the timing belt cover support bolt remove the timing belt tensioner (see
plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid as an
is located in its hole in the pump. illustration).
assembly.
21 Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
30 Remove the coolant pump/alternator
withdraw the coolant pump (see illustration).
drivebelt.
22 If the coolant pump is faulty it must be
31 If the pump pulley is to be removed, it is
renewed, as it is not possible to obtain
easiest to do this with the pump in position, as
individual components.
follows. Prevent the pulley from rotating using
23 Before refitting, clean the mating faces of
a strap wrench and unscrew the four pulley
the coolant pump and cylinder block.
securing bolts. Withdraw the pulley.
24 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
32 Position a suitable container beneath the
in mind the following points.
coolant pump, to catch the coolant which will
25 Use a new gasket, and tighten the
be released as the pump is removed. Unscrew
securing bolts to the specified torque.
the five securing bolts, and withdraw the pump
26 Before refitting the camshaft sprocket
from the housing in the cylinder block (see
bolt, the threads must be coated with sealer
illustration). Recover the O-ring seal.
(Loctite 74 or 274, or Omnifit 30M blue), as the
9.21 Withdraw the coolant pump
33 Before refitting, clean the mating faces of
bolt acts as an oil seal for the hollow
the coolant pump and the cylinder block.
camshaft. Do not forget to fit the distributor
34 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
drive sleeve.
in mind the following points.
27 Correctly tension the timing belt.
35 Use a new O-ring seal (see illustration).
28 Refill the cooling system.
9.29 Coolant pump housing hose
connections
A Heater hose connection - up to May 1990
B Expansion tank hose connection - up to
May 1990 9.32 Withdrawing the coolant pump from 9.35 Coolant pump O-ring (arrowed)
C Bottom radiator hose the cylinder block (engine removed)
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•7
36 Tighten the coolant pump securing bolts,
and where applicable the pump pulley
securing bolts, to the specified torque.
37 On completion, refill the cooling system.
10 Coolant pump/alternator
drivebelt(s) - checking, renewal
and tensioning
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 21.
11 Coolant pump/alternator
drivebelt tensioner (DOHC 11.3 Withdrawing the coolant 11.7 Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt
pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner tensioner indicator position
models with power steering)
assembly. Note lug (A) on tensioner which Inset shows tensioner at maximum
- removal and refitting
engages with hole (B) in mounting bracket adjustment
assembly. Refit the upper mounting bolt, and 4 If required, the fan blades can be separated
Removal tighten the upper bolt and lower through-bolt. from the fan hub by unscrewing the four
6 Fit the drivebelt by reversing the removal securing bolts.
1 Remove the alternator drivebelt.
procedure, and release the tensioner to
2 Loosen the alternator lower mounting
Refitting
tension the drivebelt.
through-bolt, then remove the alternator
7 Observe the tensioner indicator, which 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but where
upper mounting bolt and swing the alternator
should be central in its slot (see illustration). applicable, take care not to overtighten the
away from the engine.
bolts securing the fan blades to the fan hub,
3 Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly as thread damage may require the whole unit
12 Thermo-viscous cooling fan
(see illustration). to be renewed. Where applicable, refit and
(SOHC models) - removal and tension the drivebelt.
Refitting refitting
4 Commence refitting by positioning the
13 Electric cooling fan - removal
tensioner on the cylinder block, ensuring that
Removal and refitting
the lug on the rear of the tensioner bracket
engages with the corresponding hole in the 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
cylinder block. Tighten the securing bolt. 2 Remove the four retaining clips and
3
CVH models
5 Swing the alternator into position, to align unscrew the two retaining screws, then
the upper mounting bolt hole with the withdraw the upper section of the fan shroud 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner (see illustrations). Unclip the wiring connector from the fan
3 The cooling fan hub nut must now be motor then unscrew the retaining nuts and
unscrewed from the coolant pump drive washers. Withdraw the fan shroud and
flange. A thin cranked 32.0 mm (1.25 in AF) cooling fan assembly (see illustration).
spanner with a jaw thickness not exceeding 2 To remove the fan blades, prise the
5.0 mm (0.2 in) will be required (see securing clip from the end of the motor shaft
illustration). Alternatively, if two of the (see illustration).
coolant pump pulley bolts are removed, a
3 The motor can be separated from the fan
normal thickness spanner can be used. Note
shroud by unscrewing the three securing nuts
that the fan hub nut has a left-hand thread, (ie
and bolts.
it is undone in a clockwise direction.) If the
4 Where two cooling fans are fitted, both fans
pulley turns as the nut is undone, remove the
are secured to the fan shroud in the same
drivebelt, and clamp an old drivebelt round
manner.
the pulley to restrain it, using self-locking
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
pliers. Tap the spanner with a mallet if
refitting the fan blades, ensure that the
required to remove the nut.
12.2a Remove the retaining clips followed direction of rotation arrow faces away from
by the screws . . . the motor, towards the radiator.
12.3 Modified spanner required for
removing the thermo-viscous cooling fan
12.2b . . . and withdraw the upper section 13.1 Withdrawing the fan shroud and
X = 25.0 mm (1.0 in) Y = 12.0 mm (0.5 in)
of the fan shroud cooling fan assembly
3•8 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
12 The motor can be separated from the fan
shroud by unscrewing the three securing nuts
and bolts.
13 Where two cooling fans are fitted, both are
secured to the shroud in the same manner.
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
when fitting the fan blades, ensure that the
drive dog on the motor shaft engages with the
slot in the rear of the fan blades.
14 Cooling fan switch - removal
and refitting
13.2 Fan blade securing clip and direction 14.1 Disconnecting the wiring plug from
On CVH models, the cooling fan switch is
of rotation arrow the cooling fan switch
located on the right-hand side of the
thermostat housing (see illustration). On
DOHC models 5 Unscrew the expansion tank securing
DOHC models, the switch is located in the screws, and tilt the tank so that the coolant
6 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
end of the thermostat housing. runs to the sealed end.
7 To provide additional clearance when Removal and refitting of the switch is as 6 Disconnect and plug the lower hose.
removing the cooling fan shroud assembly described for the temperature gauge sender. 7 Drain the expansion tank into the container
(which is removed from below the vehicle),
and remove the tank.
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
8 Where applicable, the coolant level sensor
15 Expansion tank and coolant
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
can be removed from the tank by unscrewing
level sensor - removal and
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
the collar from the sensor, then withdrawing
refitting
8 Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the
the spacer, sensor and seal (see illustration).
motor(s), and where applicable, unclip the
Renew the seal if necessary. Note that the
wiring from the fan shroud.
sensor can only be fitted in one position (see
Removal
9 Unclip the expansion tank hose from the
illustration).
fan shroud. 1 With the engine cold, slowly unscrew the
10 Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan Refitting
expansion tank cap to release any remaining
shroud to the top of the radiator, then tilt the pressure from the cooling system. Remove 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
top of the shroud away from the radiator, and the cap. 10 On completion, top-up the coolant level to
lift the shroud to release the lower securing 2 Place a suitable container beneath the the maximum mark, then refit the expansion
clips. Withdraw the assembly from below the expansion tank. tank cap and run the engine at a fast idling
vehicle. 3 Disconnect and plug the upper hose. speed for several minutes. Check the
11 To remove the fan blades, prise the 4 Where applicable, disconnect the coolant expansion tank for leaks, then stop the engine
securing clip from the end of the motor shaft. level sensor wiring plug. and if necessary top-up the coolant level.
16 Temperature gauge sender
- removal and refitting
Removal
1 On SOHC models, the temperature gauge
sender is located on the front left-hand side of
the cylinder head, just in front of the inlet
manifold. On CVH models, the sender is
located on the front face of the inlet manifold,
next to the thermostat housing. On DOHC
models, the sender is located at the front of
15.8a Removing the coolant level sensor 15.8b Fitting the coolant level sensor
the inlet manifold (see illustration).
from the expansion tank
16.1 Temperature gauge sender location 16.3a Disconnect the temperature gauge 16.3b Disconnect the temperature gauge
(arrowed) sender wiring - SOHC sender wiring - CVH
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•9
2 With the engine cold, slowly unscrew the
expansion tank cap to release any remaining
pressure from the cooling system, then refit
the cap.
3 Disconnect the wiring from the sender
terminal (see illustrations).
4 Unscrew and remove the sender, and
temporarily plug the aperture.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but smear
a little sealing compound on the sender unit
threads before fitting.
17.5 Heater control cable lower end fittings 17.9 Heater control panel illumination bulb
6 On completion, check and if necessary top-
(arrowed) wiring loom correctly routed
up the coolant level.
around the wiring loom over a length of on the engine compartment bulkhead, then
17 Heater controls - removal and
approximately 330.0 mm (13.0 in) starting disconnect and plug them (see illustration).
refitting from the bulbholder. Route the loom, ensuring Alternatively, the hoses can be secured high
that it is located in the two retaining clips, enough to prevent the coolant from draining.
bend it over and secure it to the bulbholder 4 To prevent unnecessary spillage of coolant
Removal
with insulating tape as shown (see when the heater unit is removed, blow into the
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
illustration). This procedure will prevent the upper heater pipe until all the coolant has
2 Remove the securing screws and unclip the
wiring loom from chafing against the heater been expelled through the lower pipe.
lower and upper steering column shrouds.
control levers. 5 Remove the two securing screws and
3 Remove the four securing screws and
10 When reconnecting the control cables to withdraw the heater pipe cover from the
withdraw the instrument panel surround. Note
the heater, move the control levers on the bulkhead (see illustration). Recover the
that the bottom right-hand screw is covered
control panel to the fully up position, then gasket.
by a plastic panel which must be prised out.
attach the cables to the clips on the heater. 6 Working inside the vehicle, remove the
4 Remove the passenger side lower facia
The cable ends should project from the clips passenger side lower facia panel.
panel.
by between 0 and 4.0 mm (0 and 0.16 in). The 7 Disconnect the ends of the two control
5 Where necessary for improved access,
cables are adjusted automatically by moving cables from the heater by removing the two
detach the two vent hoses from the left-hand
the control levers fully downwards. It is retaining screws.
3
side of the heater, then detach the lower ends
possible that considerable resistance may 8 Detach the five vent hoses from the heater.
of the two control cables from the heater by
have to be overcome when moving the control 9 Unscrew the two mounting bolts, and move
removing the retaining screws (see
levers. the heater to the rear until the pipes are clear
illustration).
of the bulkhead, then withdraw the heater to
6 Unscrew the three securing screws, and
the left. If necessary, remove the lower facia
18 Heater unit - removal and
remove the heater control panel by sliding it bracket (see illustration).
refitting
through the facia panel and withdrawing it
Refitting
downwards. Disconnect the wiring from the
control panel illumination bulb. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
Removal
7 If necessary, the bulb can be removed with adjust the control cables by moving the levers
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
its holder. on the control panel to the top and then the
2 If the coolant is still hot, release the
bottom stops. Considerable resistance may
Refitting pressure in the system by slowly unscrewing
be encountered when moving the levers
the expansion tank cap. Place a thick rag over
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in towards the bottom stops, which should be
the cap to prevent scalding as the pressure is
mind the following points. overcome.
released.
9 When reconnecting the wiring to the control 11 On completion, top-up the coolant level.
3 Note the location of the two heater hoses
panel illumination bulb, wrap insulating tape
18.3 Location of heater hoses on engine 18.5 Heater pipe cover 18.9 Withdrawing the heater
compartment bulkhead
3•10 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
19.1a Remove the securing screws . . . 19.1b . . . and withdraw the heater matrix 19.3 Heater “up/down” control lever must
be aligned as shown before removal
Note that the cross marks are for right-hand
a chemical cleaner to clear the inner passage
drive vehicles
of the matrix. Renew the components as
19 Heater unit - overhaul necessary. 6 Unscrew the two motor securing nuts, and
5 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling. withdraw the motor assembly (see illustration).
7 Unclip the casing halves, then prise open
1 With the heater unit removed from the
the motor retaining strap using a screwdriver,
20 Heater motor - removal and
vehicle, remove the two securing screws and
or if necessary a drift.
withdraw the heater matrix from the casing refitting 8 Detach the wiring from the motor, then
(see illustrations).
remove the motor and fan wheels from the
2 Cut the heater casing gasket in line with the
casing.
Removal
casing joint, then use two suitable
screwdrivers to prise off the retaining clips Refitting
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
and separate the casing halves. Withdraw the 2 Where necessary, unclip the brake servo 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
lower part of the casing to the side. vacuum hose for improved access.
3 Remove the air flap valves, then press the 3 On models from 1987, unclip the
21 Air conditioning system -
control levers from the casing. Note that the windscreen washer hoses and wiring from the
component renewal
“up/down” control lever can only be removed motor cover, and secure them to the
when the marks are aligned as shown (see bodywork out of the way.
illustration). 4 Unscrew the two securing bolts from the 1 Only those items which can be renewed
4 Clean all components and hose through the motor cover, pull off the rubber moulding, without discharging the system are described
matrix to remove any debris. If necessary use then withdraw the cover (see illustration). here (see illustration). Other items must be
5 Disconnect the wiring from the motor, and dealt with by a Ford dealer or air conditioning
detach the earth lead from its bracket. specialist.
20.4 Unscrew the securing bolts and
withdraw the heater motor cover
21.1 Layout of air conditioning system components
6 Pressure switch
1 De-ice thermostat
7 Sight glass
2 Evaporator
8 Dehydrator/collector
3 Expansion valve
20.6 Heater motor and wiring 9 Cooling fan
4 Compressor
10 Condenser
5 Compressor clutch
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•11
9 Disconnect the fan wiring connector at the
side of the condenser.
10 Remove the three securing bolts and
withdraw the fan assembly. Turn the frame to
position the fan wiring on the dehydrator side
to avoid damaging the wiring. Take care also
not to damage the condenser fins or tube.
11 To remove the fan blades from the motor,
remove the retaining nut and circlip. The nut
has a left-hand thread, ie, it is undone in a
clockwise direction.
12 With the blades removed, the motor can
be unscrewed from the frame.
13 Reassemble and refit in the reverse order
21.4 Typical air conditioning compressor 21.17 Air conditioning condenser fan
of dismantling and removal.
mounting and pivot bolts (arrowed) wiring connector location (arrowed) -
models from 1987
Models from 1987
Compressor drivebelt
23 Disconnect any vacuum hoses,
14 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
windscreen washer hoses and electrical
15 Remove the bonnet lock.
3 On SOHC models, remove the thermo-
wiring as necessary, then unscrew the four
16 Unclip the guard from the fan frame.
viscous cooling fan.
securing bolts and on models up to 1987 the
17 Disconnect the fan wiring connector (see
4 Slacken the compressor mounting and
single nut, and remove the right-hand plenum
illustration).
pivot bolts, move the compressor towards the
chamber cover plate from the bulkhead.
18 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
engine and remove the old drivebelt (see
24 Disconnect the thermostat from the
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
illustration).
evaporator casing and withdraw it. Also
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5 Fit the new drivebelt, position the
withdraw the thermostat probe from the
19 Unscrew the two lower condenser
compressor to achieve the correct belt
casing.
securing bolts and disengage the condenser
tension, then tighten the mounting and pivot
25 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
from the top of the radiator by releasing the
bolts.
three clips.
Heating/air conditioning controls
6 On SOHC models, refit the thermo-viscous
20 Unscrew the four securing bolts and
cooling fan. 26 The procedure is similar to that described
detach the fan assembly from the condenser.
7 Reconnect the battery negative lead. for the heater controls but additionally the
Withdraw the fan assembly from underneath
vacuum hoses must be disconnected from
Condenser fan and motor the vehicle.
the control unit vacuum valve during removal,
21 Proceed as described in paragraphs 11 to
Models up to 1987 and reconnected when refitting. 3
13 inclusive.
8 Disconnect the battery negative lead, and
De-ice thermostat
remove the radiator grille. On Ghia models,
remove the front bumper. 22 Disconnect and remove the battery.
4A•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor
2.0 litre DOHC models
Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 24 15 to 18
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 15 to 18
Carburettor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7
carburettor is available in several versions to instruments, and care should be taken not to
1 General information and suit particular engine and equipment disturb any components unnecessarily.
combinations. Before attempting work on a carburettor,
precautions
The air cleaner has a vacuum or waxstat ensure that the relevant spares are available.
controlled air inlet supplying a blend of hot Full overhaul procedures for carburettors have
General information and cold air to suit the prevailing engine not been given in this Chapter, as complete
operating conditions. strip-down of a carburettor is unlikely to cure
The fuel system on carburettor models
a fault which is not immediately obvious,
may comprise a fuel tank, a fuel pump, a fuel Precautions without introducing new problems. If
pressure regulator and/or vapour separator, a
Warning - Fuel - Many of the persistent problems are encountered, it is
downdraught carburettor and a
procedures given in this recommended that the advice of a Ford dealer
thermostatically-controlled air cleaner.
Chapter involve the or carburettor specialist is sought. Most
On Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models,
disconnection of fuel pipes and dealers will be able to provide carburettor re-
the fuel tank is mounted under the rear of the
system components which may result in jetting and servicing facilities, and if necessary
vehicle, on the right-hand side. On P100
it should be possible to purchase a
some fuel spillage. Before carrying out
models, the fuel tank is mounted behind the
reconditioned carburettor of the relevant type.
any operation on the fuel system, refer to
cab, between the chassis frame and the load
the precautions given in the “Safety first”
area. The tank is ventilated, and has a simple
Section at the beginning of this manual
filler pipe and a fuel gauge sender unit.
2 Air cleaner element - renewal
and follow them implicitly. Petrol Is a
The mechanical fuel pump is a diaphragm
highly dangerous and volatile substance,
type, actuated by a pushrod bearing on an
and the precautions necessary when
eccentric cam on the auxiliary shaft on SOHC
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 38.
handling it cannot be over stressed.
models, or on the camshaft on CVH models.
DOHC models and models with air
3 Air cleaner - removal and
conditioning have an electric fuel pump Tamperproof adjustment screws -
mounted under the rear of the vehicle, next to refitting
caution
the fuel tank. DOHC models have a combined
Certain adjustment points in the fuel system
pump and fuel level sender unit.
(and elsewhere) are protected by Removal
The fuel pressure regulator and/or vapour
“tamperproof” caps, plugs or seals. The
separator is used to stabilise the fuel supply 1 On CVH models, disconnect the battery
purpose of such tamperproofing is to
to the carburettor. The pressure regulator negative lead.
discourage, and to detent, adjustment by
provides a constant fuel pressure, and hence 2 Remove the screws from the top of the air
unqualified operators.
maintains a constant float level in the cleaner cover (see illustration).
In some EEC countries (though not yet in the
carburettor which reduces exhaust emission 3 Disconnect the cold air inlet hose from the
UK) it is an offence to drive a vehicle with
levels. The vapour separator purges vapour air cleaner spout or the inlet on the front body
missing or broken tamperproof seals. Before
from the carburettor fuel supply, thus panel. The hose is secured by toggle clips
disturbing a tamperproof seal, satisfy yourself
improving hot starting qualities. All models up (see illustration).
that you will not be breaking local or national
to 1985 are fitted with a fuel pressure 4 Disconnect the hot air inlet hose from the
anti-pollution regulations by doing so. Fit a
regulator. All models from 1985 except 2.0 air cleaner spout or the hot air shroud on the
new seal when adjustment is complete when
litre SOHC models and CVH models are fitted exhaust manifold (see illustration).
this is required by law.
with a combined fuel pressure regu- 5 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the inlet
Do not break tamperproof seals on a vehicle
lator/vapour separator. 2.0 litre models from manifold (see illustration).
which is still under warranty.
1985 and CVH models are fitted with a vapour 6 On DOHC models, disconnect the
Work proceedures
separator only. DOHC models have no camshaft cover breather hose
pressure regulator or vapour separator fitted. 7 Where applicable, on OHC models remove
When working on fuel system components,
The carburettor may be either a Ford the screw securing the air cleaner body to the
scrupulous cleanliness must be observed,
variable venturi (VV) type, a Weber twin venturi camshaft cover.
and care must be taken not to introduce any
(2V or 2V TLD) type, or a Pierburg twin venturi 8 Withdraw the air cleaner, and on CVH
foreign matter into fuel lines or components.
(2V) type, depending on model. Each type of models, disconnect the wiring plug from the
Carburettors in particular are delicate
3.2 Air cleaner securing screws (arrowed) 3.3 Disconnecting the cold air intake hose 3.4 Hot air intake hose on hot air shroud
from the air cleaner spout
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor 4A•5
air charge temperature sensor mounted in the
base of the air cleaner body, and disconnect
the breather hose from the camshaft cover.
Refitting
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the disturbed hoses are securely
connected.
4 Air cleaner inlet air temperature
control - testing
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 36.
3.5 Disconnecting the air cleaner vacuum 5.1 Fuel pressure regulator location -
hose from the inlet manifold models up to 1985
5 Fuel pressure regulator
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Identify the fuel hose locations as an aid to
(models up to 1985) - removal 3 Identify the fuel hose locations, as an aid to refitting, then disconnect and plug the hoses.
and refitting refitting. Note that there are three hose 4 Remove the two securing screws and
connections on models without a fuel flow withdraw the vapour separator.
sensor unit, and two hose connections on
Refitting
Caution: Refer to the
models with a fuel flow sensor unit.
precautions in Section 1 before 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
4 Disconnect and plug the fuel hoses.
proceeding. that the fuel hoses are correctly connected. If
5 Remove the two securing screws and
the hoses were originally secured with
withdraw the regulator.
Removal
crimped type clips, discard them and use new
Refitting
1 The fuel pressure regulator is located on the worm drive clips.
left-hand side of the engine compartment 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
(see illustration). that the fuel hoses are correctly connected. If
7 Fuel pump - testing
the hoses were originally secured with
crimped type clips, discard them and use new
worm drive clips.
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1 before
6 Fuel vapour separator (models proceeding.
from 1985) - removal and
Mechanical pump
refitting
1 On SOHC engines, the fuel pump is located
4A
on the left-hand side of the cylinder block,
Caution: Refer to the next to the oil filter. On CVH engines the fuel
precautions in Section 1 before pump is located on the rear right-hand corner
proceeding. of the cylinder head.
2 To test the pump, disconnect the ignition
Removal coil LT “-/1” lead to prevent the engine from
6.1a Fuel vapour separator location - firing.
1 On SOHC models, the vapour separator is
2.0 litre SOHC models from 1985 3 Disconnect the outlet hose from the pump,
located on the left-hand side of the engine
and place a wad of rag next to the pump
A Fuel return hose compartment. On CVH models, the vapour
outlet (see illustration). Take appropriate fire
B Fuel supply hose separator is located on the right-hand side of
precautions.
C Carburettor fuel feed hose the engine compartment (see illustrations).
4 Have an assistant crank the engine on the
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
starter motor, and check that well-defined
spurts of petrol are ejected from the fuel
pump outlet. If not, the pump is faulty.
Dispose of the petrol-soaked rag safely.
6.1b Fuel pressure regulator/vapour
6.1c Fuel vapour separator location -
separator location -
CVH models
SOHC models from 1985
A Fuel supply hose A Fuel supply hose
7.3 Disconnecting outlet hose from fuel
B Carburettor fuel feed hose B Carburettor fuel feed hose
pump - SOHC model
C Fuel return hose C Fuel return hose
4A•6 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor
start the engine), and measure the quantity of 6 Clean the exterior of the pump with paraffin
petrol delivered: it should be at least 400 ml and wipe dry. Clean all traces of gasket from
(0.7 pint). If not, the pump is faulty and should the pump flange and the cylinder block or
be renewed, as no spares are available. cylinder head, as applicable.
12 On completion of the test, reconnect the 7 On early pumps with a removable top
hose to the pressure regulator or vapour cover, remove the securing screw and
separator, as applicable, and if the hose was withdraw the cover and the nylon mesh filter
originally secured with a crimped type clip, with seal (see illustration). Clean the filter,
discard this and fit a new worm drive clip. the cover and the pump with petrol. Locate
the filter in the cover and fit the cover to the
2.0 litre DOHC models
pump, so that the indentations on the cover
13 If the fuel pump is functioning, it should and pump are aligned. Tighten the cover
be possible to hear it “buzzing” by listening securing screw.
under the rear of the vehicle when the ignition 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
7.7 Electric fuel pump - SOHC and CVH
is switched on. Unless the engine is started, new gasket, and tighten the securing bolts to
models with air conditioning
the fuel pump should switch off after the specified torque. Ensure that the hoses
A Clamping bracket C Fuel outlet approximately one second. are correctly connected, and if the hoses were
B Fuel inlet D Wiring plug 14 If the pump appears to have failed originally secured with crimped type clips,
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
5 On some early pumps, the top cover can be discard these and use new worm drive clips.
relay, and where applicable check the state of
removed for access to the filter. Removing the
Electric pump
the fuel pump inertia cut-off switch as follows.
pump and cleaning the filter may cure the
15 The inertia cut-off switch is located in the
problem. On models with a sealed pump, or SOHC and CVH models with air
spare wheel well. The switch incorporates a
where cleaning the interior of the pump and conditioning
reset button, which should normally be in the
filter does not solve the problem, the pump
9 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
depressed position. Check the position of the
should be renewed, as no spares are
10 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
reset button before assuming that a fault
available. Check that there is petrol in the fuel
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
exists in the fuel pump.
tank before condemning the pump!
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
16 To test the fuel pump, special equipment
6 On completion of the test, reconnect the
11 Clean the area around the pump
is required, and it is recommended that any
outlet hose to the pump. If the hose was
mounting, and position a suitable container
suspected faults are referred to a Ford dealer.
originally secured with a crimped type clip,
under the pump.
discard this and use a new worm drive clip.
12 Using a hose clamping tool or self-locking
8 Fuel pump - removal and
Reconnect the coil LT lead.
pliers, clamp the fuel tank-to pump hose to
refitting
Electric pump prevent excessive petrol spillage, or
alternatively make arrangements to collect the
SOHC and CVH models with air Caution: Refer to the contents of the fuel tank which will otherwise
conditioning precautions in Section 1 before be released. Disconnect the hose from the
proceeding.
7 The fuel pump is located under the rear of pump.
the vehicle, next to the fuel tank (see 13 Disconnect the fuel outlet hose from the
Mechanical pump
illustration). pump and plug the hose to prevent petrol
Note: A new gasket must be used when
8 If the pump is functioning, it should be spillage.
refitting the pump.
possible to hear it “buzzing” by listening
Caution: Petrol under pressure
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
under the rear of the vehicle when the ignition
may spray out of the outlet as
2 For improved access on CVH models,
is switched on.
the hose is disconnected.
remove the air cleaner.
9 If the pump appears to have failed
3 Identify the hose locations as an aid to
completely, check the fuse and relay. 14 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the
10 To test the pump, disconnect the fuel pump.
pump and plug them.
supply hose from the pressure regulator or 15 Slacken the clamping bolt, and slide the
4 Remove the two securing bolts and
vapour separator (as applicable) in the engine pump from the bracket assembly.
withdraw the pump from the cylinder block or
compartment. Lead the hose into a measuring 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
cylinder head, as applicable (see illustration).
cylinder. make sure that the rubber sleeve is correctly
5 Recover the gasket, and if desired remove
11 Take appropriate fire precautions, then located around the pump body in the bracket,
the operating pushrod (see illustration).
switch on the ignition for 30 seconds (do not and ensure that the fuel hoses are securely
8.7 Removing the top cover from an early
8.4 Withdrawing the fuel pump from the 8.5 Withdrawing the fuel pump operating type fuel pump for access to the mesh
cylinder head - CVH model pushrod - CVH model filter
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor 4A•7
7 Support the tank, then remove the bolt from
the securing strap. Unhook the remaining end
of the strap from the underbody.
8 Lower the tank sufficiently to disconnect
the two wiring plugs from the fuel level sender
(pump) unit (see illustration).
9 Identify the fuel hose locations for use when
refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the
sender unit and plug them.
10 Withdraw the fuel tank from under the
vehicle.
11 The fuel filler and ventilation pipes can be
removed from the tank by loosening the
securing clips.
8.17 Combined fuel pump/fuel level sender 9.8 Fuel level sender unit connections -
12 If the tank is contaminated with sediment
unit - 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A) CVH models Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models
or water, swill it out with clean petrol. If the
A Fuel pump B Fuel level sender A Wiring plugs C Fuel inlet pipe
tank has a leak, or is damaged, it should be
unit B Fuel outlet pipe
repaired by a specialist, or alternatively
renewed. Do not under any circumstances
connected. If the hoses were originally the brackets contact the insulating pads, then
attempt to solder or weld a fuel tank.
tighten the front tank securing bolts.
secured with crimped type clips, discard
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
23 Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
these and use new worm drive clips. ensure that the ventilation pipe is correctly
but ensure that all hoses and pipes are
2.0 litre DOHC models positioned in its groove in the tank, and is not
correctly connected, and if the hoses or pipes
trapped between the tank and the vehicle
17 On these models the fuel pump is were originally secured with crimped type
underbody. Ensure that the fuel hoses and the
mounted in the fuel tank, on the same clips, discard these and use new worm drive
fuel filler and ventilation pipes are correctly
mounting as the fuel level sender unit (see clips. Refit the cargo area.
connected, and if the hoses or pipes were
illustration).
originally secured with crimped type clips,
18 To remove the pump, first remove the fuel
10 Fuel level sender unit -
discard these and use new worm drive clips.
tank.
removal and refitting
P100 models
19 Unscrew the fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit by engaging two crossed screwdrivers in
14 Remove the cargo area (Chapter 12).
Caution: Refer to the
the slots on either side of the unit mounting 15 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
precautions in Section 1 before
flange. Recover the seal. level sender unit, and release the wiring from proceeding. A new seal must
20 Refitting is a reversal of removal. It is the clip on the fuel tank flange. be used when refitting the
necessary to fit a new seal. 16 Identify the fuel hose locations for use sender unit.
when refitting, then disconnect the hoses
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
from the sender unit and plug them.
4A
9 Fuel tank - removal and refitting models
17 Detach the fuel pipes from their clips on
the tank.
All models except 2.0 litre DOHC
18 Remove the five tank securing bolts, and
Caution: Refer to the 1 Remove the fuel tank.
lift the tank from the chassis frame (see
precautions in Section 1 before 2 Unscrew the sender unit from the tank by
illustration).
proceeding. engaging two crossed screwdrivers in the
19 Proceed as described in paragraphs 11
slots on either side of the sender unit
and 12.
1 Run the fuel level as low as possible before mounting flange. Recover the seal. Check the
20 Commence refitting by loosening the
condition of the gauze filter on the fuel pick-
removing the tank. bolts securing the front tank mounting
up pipe, and renew it if there is any sign of
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. brackets to the chassis frame.
deterioration.
3 Remove the tank filler cap, then syphon or 21 Lower the tank into position and loosely
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
pump out the tank contents (there is no drain refit the securing bolts. Tighten the three rear
new seal.
plug). It may be necessary to disconnect the securing bolts.
2.0 litre DOHC models
22 Pull down on the front of the tank and
fuel tank-to-fuel pump hose in order to fully
tighten the bolts securing the front tank
drain the tank. Store the petrol in a suitable 4 On these models the sender unit is
mounting brackets to the chassis frame when
sealed container. combined with the fuel pump. See Section 8
for unit removal and refitting.
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
P100 models
models
5 Remove the cargo area (Chapter 12).
4 Working in the fuel filler recess, remove the
6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sender
two screws on models up to 1987, or the
unit.
single screw on models from 1987, securing
7 Identify the fuel hose locations, as an aid to
the upper end of the fuel filler pipe to the body
refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the
panel.
sender unit and plug them.
5 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the 8 Proceed as described in paragraph 2.
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). new seal, and ensure that the fuel hoses are
6 Unscrew the two securing bolts from the correctly connected. If the hoses were
left-hand tank flange, and on models from originally secured with crimped type clips,
1987, the single bolt from the right-hand tank discard these and use new worm drive clips.
9.18 Fuel tank securing bolts (arrowed) -
Refit the cargo area.
flange. P100 models
4A•8 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor
11 Throttle pedal - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the lower facia panel from the
driver’s side.
3 Prise off the securing clip and disconnect
the end of the throttle cable from the top of
the pedal (see illustration).
4 Remove the two securing nuts, one
11.3 Throttle pedal assembly - cable 11.4 Throttle pedal securing nut (arrowed)
accessible from the driver’s footwell, the other
connection arrowed in engine compartment
from the engine compartment, and withdraw
the pedal and bracket assembly (see locate in a slot in the throttle lever (see
illustration). 13 Carburettors (all types) -
illustration).
7 Prise off the spring clip securing the cable dismantling and reassembly
Refitting
sheath to the cable bracket at the carburettor
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on inlet manifold. Depress the four lugs on the 1 A complete strip-down of a carburettor is
completion check the throttle cable plastic cable retainer simultaneously so that unlikely to cure a fault which is not
adjustment. the retainer can be slid from the bracket, or immediately obvious without introducing new
remove the retainer securing clip, as problems. If persistent carburation problems
12 Throttle cable - removal, applicable (see illustration). Take care not to are encountered, it is recommended that the
advice of a Ford dealer or carburettor
damage the cable sheath.
refitting and adjustment
specialist is sought.
Refitting 2 If it is decided to go ahead and service a
Removal carburettor, check the cost and availability of
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but before
spare parts before commencement. Obtain a
refitting the air cleaner, adjust the cable as
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
carburettor repair kit, which will contain the
follows.
2 Working inside the vehicle, remove the
necessary gaskets, diaphragms and other
lower facia panel from the driver’s side. Adjustment renewable items.
3 Prise off the securing clip and disconnect
3 When working on carburettors, scrupulous
9 Have an assistant fully depress the throttle
the end of the throttle cable from the top of cleanliness must be observed and care must
pedal and hold it in this position. On models
the pedal. be taken not to introduce any foreign matter
with automatic transmission, where
4 Working in the engine compartment, free into components. Carburettors are delicate
applicable ensure that the kickdown cable
the cable sheath from the bulkhead, and pull instruments and care should be taken not to
does not restrict the pedal movement. Turn
the cable through into the engine disturb any components unnecessarily.
the adjusting sleeve at the carburettor inlet
compartment. It will probably be necessary to 4 Referring to the relevent exploded view of
manifold cable bracket until the throttle is just
pull the cable grommet from the bulkhead in the carburettor (see illustrations), remove
fully open. Have the assistant release and
order to free the cable sheath. each component part whilst making a note of
then fully depress the throttle pedal, and
5 For improved access, remove the air its fitted position. Make alignment marks on
check that the throttle is again fully open. linkages etc.
cleaner.
Adjust if necessary, then refit the air cleaner. 5 Reassemble the carburettor in the reverse
6 Disconnect the cable end from the throttle
On models with automatic transmission, order to dismantling, using new gaskets, O-
linkage. The cable end may be attached to the
where applicable check the operation of the rings etc. Be careful not to kink any
linkage with a balljoint and spring clip, a
kickdown cable, and adjust if necessary. diaphragms.
spring clip only, or the cable end may simply
12.6 Disconnecting the throttle cable end from the throttle lever - 12.7 Removing the throttle cable sheath retainer securing clip -
Weber 2V carburettor CVH model
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor 4A•9
13.4a Exploded view of Ford VV carburettor
A Throttle spindle
B Mixture screw
C By-pass leak adjuster
D Float
E Needle valve
F Main jet body
G Metering rod
H Air valve
J Automatic choke unit
K Bi-metal coil
L Carburettor control diaphragm
M Accelerator pump diaphragm
13.4b Exploded view of Weber 2V
carburettor - 1.6 models
4A
A Top cover assembly
B Automatic choke assembly
C Automatic choke bi-metal housing
assembly
D Secondary idle jet
E Secondary throttle valve vacuum unit
F Idle speed screw
G Idle mixture screw
H Accelerator pump assembly
J Power valve diaphragm
K Float
L Primary emulsion tube
M Primary idle jet
N Needle valve
P Fuel filter
Q Secondary emulsion tube
4A•10 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor
13.4c Exploded view of Weber 2V carburettor - 2.0 litre models up to 1985
K Accelerator pump diaphragm S Emulsion tube
A Top cover assembly
L Accelerator pump gasket T Accelerator pump jet
B Fuel filter
M Automatic choke bi-metal housing U Air correction jet
C Power valve assembly
assembly V Accelerator pump outlet check ball
D Float
N Automatic choke assembly valve assembly
E Needle Valve
P Vacuum pull-down diaphragm W Low vacuum enrichment diaphragm
F Gasket
assembly X Secondary idle jet and holder
G Main jet
H Main body assembly Q Idle mixture screw
J Primary idle jet assembly R Idle speed screw
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor 4A•11
4A
13.4d Exploded view of Weber 2V carburettor - 2.0 litre models from 1985
M Primary emulsion tube
G Idle mixture screw
A Top cover assembly
N Primary idle jet
H Accelerator pump assembly
B Automatic choke assembly
P Needle valve
J Power valve diaphragm
C Automatic choke bi-metal housing
Q Fuel filter
K Low vacuum enrichment diaphragm
D Secondary idle jet
R Secondary emulsion tube
L Float
E Secondary throttle valve vacuum unit
F Stepper motor
4A•12 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor
13.4e Exploded view of Pierburg 2V carburettor
L Fuel inlet pipe and filter
E Secondary throttle valve vacuum unit
A Automatic choke bi-metal housing
M Primary main jet
F Idle speed screw
B O-ring
N Secondary main jet
G Accelerator pump diaphragm
C Automatic choke coolant housing
O Top cover assembly
H Power valve assembly
D Automatic choke vacuum pull-down
P Idle jet
K Carburettor body
unit
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor 4A•13
13.4f Exploded view of Weber 2V TLD carburettor
A Anti-dieselling valve
B Emulsion tubes
C Air correction jets
D Choke pull-down diaphragm assembly
E Choke linkage
F Needle valve
G Float
H Fast idle adjustment screw
J Idle speed adjustment screw
K Idle mixture adjustment screw
L Throttle valves
M Power valve assembly
N Accelerator pump assembly
P Low vacuum enrichment device
Q Throttle kicker
R Gasket
S Main jets
4A
4 Identify the automatic choke coolant hose dieselling (anti-run-on) valve.
14 Carburettor (Ford VV type) - locations, as an aid to refitting, then 6 Disconnect the fuel hose and vacuum pipe
disconnect the hoses (being prepared for (see illustration). Plug the end of the fuel
removal and refitting
coolant spillage.) Either plug the hoses or hose to minimise petrol spillage.
secure them with their ends facing upwards to 7 Disconnect the throttle cable from the
Caution: Refer to the
prevent loss of coolant. carburettor throttle lever (see illustration).
precautions in Section 1 before
5 Disconnect the wiring from the anti- 8 Remove the two securing nuts and
proceeding.
Note: A new gasket must be used when
refitting the carburettor. A tachometer and an
exhaust gas analyser will be required to check
the idle speed and mixture on completion.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the air cleaner.
3 Relieve the pressure in the cooling system
by unscrewing the expansion tank cap. If the
engine is warm, place a thick rag over the cap
and unscrew the cap slowly as a precaution
against scalding. Refit the cap after relieving 14.6 Disconnecting the fuel hose - Ford VV 14.7 Disconnecting the throttle cable from
the pressure. carburettor the throttle lever - Ford VV carburettor
4A•14 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor
washers, and lift the carburettor from the inlet
manifold studs (see illustrations). Recover
the gasket.
Refitting
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
10 Ensure that the mating faces of the inlet
manifold and carburettor are clean, and use a
new gasket.
11 Ensure that the coolant hoses, fuel hose,
and vacuum pipe are correctly routed and free
from restrictions. If any of the hoses were
originally secured with crimped type clips, 14.8a Remove the securing nuts and 14.8b . . . and lift the carburettor from the
discard these and use new worm drive clips washers . . . inlet manifold - Ford VV carburettor
on refitting.
3 Not all Weber carburettors are fitted with an
12 On completion, check and if necessary
19 Carburettor (Pierburg 2V
anti-dieselling valve.
top-up the coolant level. Check and if
4 Disconnect all relevant wiring plugs and type) - removal and refitting
necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture.
vacuum pipes, if necessary noting their
locations for use when refitting. 1 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
15 Carburettor (Ford VV type) - idle 5 Disconnect the link arm from the throttle carburettor but note the following.
speed and mixture adjustment linkage instead of disconnecting the throttle 2 The Pierburg carburettor is not fitted with
cable. an anti-dieselling valve.
Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 15 and 16. 6 The carburettor is secured to the inlet 3 Disconnect all relevant wiring plugs and
manifold by four nuts and washers. vacuum pipes, if necessary noting their
16 Carburettor (Weber 2V type) - locations as an aid to refitting.
17 Carburettor (Weber 2V type) - 4 Disconnect the throttle arm from the throttle
removal and refitting
lever by removing the retaining clip instead of
idle speed and mixture adjustment
disconnecting the cable (see illustration).
1 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
5 The carburettor is secured to the inlet
Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 15 and 16.
carburettor but note the following.
manifold by three Torx type screws (see
2 On models with an electrically-heated
illustration).
automatic choke, ignore all references to the 18 Carburettor (Weber 2V type) - 6 On CVH models an insulator block is fitted
cooling system and coolant hoses.
fast idle speed adjustment between the carburettor and the inlet manifold
in place of a gasket. There is no need to
1 This procedure does not apply to models renew the insulator block on refitting.
fitted with a carburettor stepper motor, for
which no adjustment is possible.
2 Check the idle speed and mixture. The idle
speed must be correct before attempting to
check or adjust the fast idle speed.
3 With the engine at normal operating
temperature, and a tachometer connected in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions, proceed as follows.
4 Remove the air cleaner.
5 Partially open the throttle, hold the choke
18.5a Fast idle speed adjustment - Weber plate(s) fully closed, then release the throttle
2V carburettor (1.6 litre models) so that on 1.6 litre models the fast idle
A Screw on third (middle) step of cam 19.4 Throttle arm retaining clip (arrowed) -
adjustment screw rests on the third (middle)
B Fast idle screw Pierburg 2V carburettor
step of the fast idle cam (see illustration) and
on 2.0 litre models the fast idle adjustment
screw rests on the highest step of the fast idle
cam (see illustration).
6 Release the choke plate(s), checking that
it/they remain(s) fully open; if not, the
automatic choke mechanism is faulty, or the
engine is not at normal operating temperature.
7 Without touching the throttle pedal, start
the engine and check that the fast idle speed
is as specified. If adjustment is necessary,
turn the fast idle adjustment screw until the
correct speed is obtained.
8 On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer, then
18.5b Fast idle speed adjustment - Weber 19.5 Removing the carburettor securing
refit the air cleaner.
2V carburettor (2.0 litre models) screws (arrowed) - Pierburg 2V carburettor
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor 4A•15
Note: A new gasket must be used when
20 Carburettor (Pierburg 2V type) - 24 Carburettor (Weber 2V TLD) -
refitting the carburettor. A tachometer and an
idle speed and mixture adjustment fast idle speed adjustment
exhaust gas analyser will be required to check
the idle speed and mixture on completion.
Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 15 and 16. 1 Proceed as described for the Weber 2V
Removal carburettor, noting the following.
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 The fast idle adjustment screw should be
21 Carburettor (Pierburg 2V type)
positioned on the third (middle) step of the
2 Remove the air cleaner.
- fast idle speed adjustment fast idle cam (see illustration).
3 Disconnect the wiring from the anti-
3 Refer to the Specifications at the beginning
dieselling (anti-run-on) valve.
1 Check the idle speed and mixture of this Chapter for the correct fast idle speed.
4 Disconnect the wiring from the automatic
adjustment. The idle speed must be correct
choke heater.
before attempting to check or adjust the fast
25 Inlet manifold - removal and
5 Disconnect the fuel supply and return
idle speed.
refitting
hoses, noting their locations to aid refitting.
2 With the engine at normal operating
Plug the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol
temperature, and a tachometer connected in
spillage.
accordance with the manufacturer’s
SOHC models
6 Disconnect the link arm from the throttle
instructions proceed as follows.
3 Remove the air cleaner. Removal
linkage.
4 Position the fast idle speed adjustment 7 Disconnect the vacuum pipe. 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
screw on the lowest (6th) step of the fast idle 8 Release the coolant hose from the bracket 2 Partially drain the cooling system.
cam (see illustration). under the automatic choke housing. 3 Remove the air cleaner.
5 Check that the fast idle speed is as 9 Unscrew the four Torx screws, and lift the 4 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
specified. If adjustment is required, stop the automatic choke (where applicable), and the
carburettor from the inlet manifold. Recover
engine and proceed as follows. inlet manifold. Identify the hose locations for
the gasket.
6 Remove the tamperproof cap from the fast use when refitting.
Refitting
idle speed adjustment screw. 5 Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the
7 Ensure that the adjustment screw is still carburettor and plug the end to minimise
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
resting on the lowest step of the fast idle cam, petrol spillage.
in mind the following points.
then open the throttle so that a small 6 Disconnect all relevant wiring and vacuum
12 Ensure that the mating faces of the inlet
screwdriver can be used to adjust the screw pipes from the carburettor, if necessary noting
manifold and the carburettor are clean, and
from below the carburettor. the locations for use when refitting.
use a new gasket.
8 Start the engine and recheck the fast idle 7 Disconnect the throttle cable from the
13 Ensure that all hoses, pipes and wiring are
speed. throttle linkage.
correctly routed, and free from restrictions. If
9 If necessary, repeat the procedure given in 8 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation and
any of the hoses were originally secured with
paragraphs 7 and 8 until the correct fast idle brake servo vacuum hoses from the inlet
4A
crimped-type clips, discard these, and use
speed is obtained. manifold. The brake servo vacuum hose is
new worm-drive clips on refitting.
10 On completion of adjustment, stop the secured with a union nut (see illustrations).
engine and disconnect the tachometer, then 9 Disconnect any remaining wiring and
14 Make sure that the coolant hose is
refit the tamperproof cap to the adjustment vacuum pipes from the inlet manifold, if
correctly positioned in the bracket under the
necessary noting the locations as an aid to
screw, and refit the air cleaner. automatic choke housing.
refitting.
15 On completion, check and if necessary
10 Where necessary, unbolt the throttle cable
22 Carburettor (Weber 2V TLD) - adjust the idle speed and mixture.
bracket from the top of the inlet manifold for
removal and refitting improved access, and unbolt the dipstick tube
23 Carburettor (Weber 2V TLD) - bracket.
Caution: Refer to the idle speed and mixture adjustment 11 Unscrew the two nuts and four bolts
precautions in Section 1 before
securing the manifold to the cylinder head,
proceeding.
Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 15 and 16. noting the location of the rear engine lifting
21.4 Fast idle speed adjustment - Pierburg 24.2 Fast idle speed adjustment - Weber
2V carburettor 2V TLD carburettor
Screw (arrowed) should rest on lowest (6th) A Fast idle cam 25.8a Disconnecting the crankcase
step of cam B Adjustment screw on middle step of cam ventilation . . .
4A•16 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor
25.8b . . . and brake servo vacuum hoses 25.11 Rear engine lifting bracket location - 25.12 Lifting the inlet manifold from the
from the inlet manifold - SOHC models SOHC models cylinder head - SOHC models
bracket (see illustration). CVH models
29 Disconnect the throttle cable from the
12 Lift the inlet manifold from the cylinder throttle linkage.
Removal
head, and recover the gasket (see 30 Make a final check to ensure that all
illustration). relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been 42 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to
13 If desired, the carburettor can be removed disconnected to facilitate removal of the 3 inclusive.
from the inlet manifold by unscrewing the manifold. 43 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
securing nuts or screws. Refer to the relevant 31 Unscrew the ten bolts and two nuts automatic choke, thermostat housing and
Section describing carburettor removal and securing the manifold to the cylinder head. inlet manifold, noting their locations for use
refitting. Recover the gasket. 32 Lift the manifold clear of the cylinder when refitting.
Refitting head. Recover the gasket. 44 Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the
33 Recover the two plastic spark plug carburettor and plug the end to minimise
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal bearing
spacers from the recesses in the cylinder petrol spillage.
in mind the following points.
head. 45 Disconnect all relevant wiring and vacuum
15 Ensure that all mating faces are clean.
34 If desired, the carburettor can be removed pipes from the carburettor, thermostat
16 Renew the gasket(s), and apply a bead of
from the manifold by unscrewing the securing housing and inlet manifold, noting the
sealant at least 5.0 mm (0.2 in) wide around
screws. Refer to the carburettor removal and
the central coolant aperture on both sides of locations as an aid to refitting.
refitting Sections as necessary.
the manifold-to-cylinder head gasket. 46 Disconnect the throttle cable from the
17 Tighten the manifold securing nuts and throttle linkage.
Refitting
bolts progressively to the specified torque, 47 Unbolt the dipstick tube from the inlet
35 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
ensuring that the engine lifting bracket is in manifold and withdraw the dipstick and
in mind the following points.
place. dipstick tube from the cylinder block.
36 Ensure that all mating faces are clean.
18 Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires 48 Unscrew the seven nuts securing the
37 Ensure that the spark plug spacers are in
are correctly reconnected, and if the fuel manifold to the cylinder head, then lift the
position in the cylinder head recesses before
supply hose was originally secured with a manifold from the cylinder head, and recover
refitting the manifold.
crimped type clip, discard this and use a new the gasket.
38 Renew all gaskets.
worm drive clip on refitting.
49 If desired, the carburettor can be removed
39 Tighten all manifold securing nuts and
19 On completion, refill the cooling system,
from the manifold by removing the securing
bolts progressively to the specified torque.
adjust the throttle cable and check and if
screws. Recover the insulator block (see
40 Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture.
illustrations).
are securely reconnected in their original
DOHC models 50 The carburettor intermediate plate can be
positions.
removed from the manifold by unscrewing the
41 On completion, refill the cooling system.
Removal
three securing screws. Recover the gasket.
Check the adjustment of the throttle cable.
20 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 51 If necessary, the thermostat and housing
Check, and if necessary adjust, the idle speed
21 Partially drain the cooling system. can be removed from the manifold.
and mixture.
22 Remove the air cleaner.
23 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing and the inlet manifold,
noting their locations to assist with refitting.
24 Disconnect the fuel supply and return
hoses from the carburettor. Plug their ends to
minimise petrol spillage.
25 Release the coolant hose from the bracket
under the automatic choke housing.
26 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, and move them to one side.
27 Disconnect all relevant wiring and vacuum
pipes from the carburettor, thermostat
housing and inlet manifold, noting the
locations as an aid to refitting.
25.49a Removing the carburettor . . . 25.49b . . . and the insulator block from the
28 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
inlet manifold - CVH models
from the inlet manifold.
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor 4A•17
Refitting
52 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
53 Ensure that all mating faces are clean and
renew the gasket(s).
54 Tighten the manifold securing nuts
progressively to the specified torque.
55 Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
are correctly reconnected, and if the fuel
supply hose was originally secured with a
crimped type clip, discard this and use a new
worm drive clip on refitting.
56 On completion, refill the cooling system,
26.3 Exhaust manifold hot air shroud 26.4 Unscrewing an exhaust downpipe
adjust the throttle cable and check and if
showing securing screws (1 and 3) and securing nut
necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture.
coolant hose clip (2) - SOHC models
vehicle, with an axle stand for example, to
26 Exhaust manifold - removal
avoid placing unnecessary strain on the
and refitting
exhaust system.
5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
Removal plugs, if necessary identifying them for
locations, and place them to one side out of
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
the way.
2 Remove the air cleaner and pull the hot air
6 Unscrew the eight securing nuts, noting the
pick-up pipe from the exhaust manifold hot air
location of the front engine lifting bracket
shroud.
secured by the front two nuts on SOHC
3 Remove the securing screws (1 screw on
models, and lift the manifold from the cylinder
DOHC models, 2 screws on SOHC models, 3
head. Recover the gasket(s) where applicable
screws on CVH models) and lift the hot air
(see illustrations).
shroud from the manifold. Note the position of 26.6a Unscrew the exhaust manifold
the coolant hose bracket which is secured by securing nuts . . .
Refitting
the front hot air shroud securing screw on
cylinder head in production, but a gasket
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
SOHC models (see illustration).
must be used when refitting. Where
mind the following.
4 Unscrew the securing nuts, and disconnect
applicable, remove the plastic spacer from the
8 Ensure that all mating faces are clean, and
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold (see
rear manifold stud before fitting the gasket
renew all gaskets. Note that on CVH models,
illustration). Recover the gasket. Support the
(see illustrations).
no gasket is fitted between the manifold and
exhaust downpipe from underneath the
4A
26.6b . . . noting the location of the front 26.6c . . . and lift off the exhaust manifold - 26.6d SOHC models have separate
engine bracket . . . SOHC models manifold gaskets for each exhaust port
26.8b Remove the plastic spacer (arrowed)
26.8a Exhaust manifold gaskets in position 26.8c Fitting the exhaust manifold -
before fitting exhaust manifold gasket -
on cylinder head - DOHC models DOHC models
CVH models
4A•18 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor
27.4a Exhaust downpipe-to-manifold 27.4b Exhaust downpipe-to-main system 27.5a Rear exhaust section mounting -
flanged joint viewed from underneath flanged joint Hatchback model
vehicle
9 Tighten the manifold securing nuts
progressively to the specified torque, and
similarly tighten the exhaust downpipe
securing nuts. Do not forget to fit the engine
lifting bracket on SOHC models.
10 Ensure that the HT leads are reconnected
to their correct cylinders.
27 Exhaust system - inspection,
removal and refitting
Inspection 27.5b Rear exhaust mounting - P100 model 27.6 Fit a new downpipe-to-manifold
gasket
1 The exhaust system should be examined for
leaks, damage, and security at regular according to model (see illustrations). If Refitting
intervals. To do this, apply the handbrake, then necessary to avoid confusion, note how the
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
start the engine and allow it to idle. Lie down on mountings are fitted to enable correct
that all mating faces are clean, and fit a new
each side of the vehicle in turn and check the refitting. Note that on P100 models the
gasket between the downpipe and manifold
full length of the exhaust system f
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