Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR FORD SIERRA
Introduction to the Ford Sierra Page 0•4
Acknowledgements Page 0•4
Safety first! Page 0•5
ROADSIDE REPAIRS
Jacking, vehicle support and wheel changing Page 0•6
Towing Page 0•7
Identifying leaks Page 0•8
Jump starting Page 0•9
Weekly Checks
Introduction Page 0•10
Underbonnet check points Page 0•10
Engine Oil level Page 0•12
Coolant level Page 0•12
Screen washer fluid level Page 0•13
Brake fluid level Page 0•13
Power steering fluid level Page 0•14
Electrical systems Page 0•14
Battery Page 0•15
Wiper blades Page 0•15
Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•16
Lubricants and fluids Page 0•17
Tyre pressures Page 0•18
MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and Servicing Page 1•1
Maintenance schedule Page 1•4
Maintenance procedures Page 1•9
Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
SOHC engines Page 2A•1
DOHC engines Page 2B•1
CVH engines Page 2C•1
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - fuel injection models Page 4B•1
Engine electrical systems Page 5•1
TRANSMISSION
Clutch Page 6•1
Manual gearbox Page 7A•1
Automatic transmission Page 7B•1
Propellor shaft Page 8•1
Final drive and driveshafts Page 9•1
BRAKES AND SUSPENSION
Braking system Page 10•1
Suspension and steering Page 11•1
BODY EQUIPMENT
Bodywork, trim and fittings Page 12•1
Body electrical systems Page 13•1
Wiring Diagrams Page 13•22
Reference
General dimensions and weights Page REF•1
Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3
General repair procedures Page REF•4
Tools and working facilities Page REF•5
MOT test checks Page REF•7
Fault finding Page REF•11
Glossary of technical terms Page REF•18
Index Page REF•23
Introduction
0•4
Introduction to the Ford Sierra
Towards the end of 1986, the 1.3 litre engine was phased out. In order
The Ford Sierra was first introduced in late 1982 with the option of
to fill a gap in the range, a Saloon body style, designated the Sapphire,
seven different engines and four different trim levels. This manual
was introduced in early 1987 and shortly afterwards, a 1.8 litre CVH
covers the four cylinder in-line petrol engines, but other models in the
engine replaced the previously used 1.8 litre SOHC engine throughout
range are fitted with V6 or diesel engines.
the model range.
The Sierra was introduced by Ford as the successor to the Cortina
A 1.6 litre CVH engine was introduced in September 1991 to replace
and initially received a mixed reception as it was one of the first
the 1.6 litre SOHC engine used previously, this engine being broadly
vehicles to make use of the “aeroback” body style designed to reduce
similar to the original 1.8 litre CVH engine which was in turn uprated in
the air drag coefficient to a minimum in the interests of fuel economy.
March, 1992.
Mechanically the Sierra is similar to the Cortina with the exception of
A 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead Camshaft) engine was in-
all-round independent suspension.
troduced in August 1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine.
Initially, 1.3, 1.6 and 2.0 litre SOHC carburettor engines were
In early 1988, a Sierra-based P100 pick-up model became available
available, with Hatchback and Estate body styles. In late 1984, a 1.8
to replace the previous Cortina-based design. The P100 consists of a
litre SOHC engine became available and in 1985, a performance
Sierra-type “cab” and front suspension, and a Ford Transit-type rear
orientated 2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection engine was introduced.
suspension and 2.0 litre engine.
A wide range of standard and optional
equipment is available within the Sierra
range to suit most tastes, including an
anti-lock braking system.
For the home mechanic, the Sierra is a
straightforward vehicle to maintain and
repair since design features have been
incorporated to reduce the actual cost of
ownership to a minimum, and most of the
items requiring frequent attention are
easily accessible.
Ford Sierra L
Ford Sierra Ghia Estate
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they
copyright of the Ford Motor Company and are used with their
do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or
permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who
publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions
provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at
from, the information given.
Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.
Safety First! 0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
Specia hazards
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
This page shows just some of the potential sure that any mains-operated equipment is
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a correctly earthed. Mains power points should Hydrofluoric acid
safety-conscious attitude. be protected by a residual current device
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
(RCD) circuit breaker.
General hazards when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
Fume or gas intoxication in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
Scalding exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The
• Exhaust fumes are
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
poisonous; they often
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
contain carbon
tank cap while the engine is hot.
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
monoxide, which is
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
amputate the limb concerned.
Never run the
hot if the engine has recently been running.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
engine in a
Burning suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
confined space
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
such as a garage
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and discard them after use.
with the doors shut.
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
• Fuel vapour is also
and drums can also be extremely hot The battery
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
immediately after use.
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Crushing attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
Poisonous or irritant substances when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• When working under or near
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
a raised vehicle,
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
always
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
supplement the
connecting and disconnecting battery
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
jack with axle
chargers or jump leads.
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
stands, or use
seek medical advice.
drive-on Air bags
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
ramps.
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
Never
accidentally. Take care when removing the
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
venture
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
under a car which
instructions may apply.
your pocket.
is only supported by a jack.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
• Take care if loosening or tightening high- Diesel injection equipment
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
Initial loosening and final tightening should
high pressure. Take care when working on
burns on contact.
be done with the wheels on the ground.
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Asbestos
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled Warning: Never expose the hands,
explosive. or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in face or any other part of the body
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. to injector spray; the fuel can
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights When dealing with such components it is penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a safest to assume that they contain asbestos. results.
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
Remember... A few tips
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
DON’T
DO
an inspection pit.
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
• Another cause of fire is an electrical • Do use eye protection when using power
which may be beyond your capability – get
overload or short-circuit. Take care when tools, and when working under the vehicle.
assistance.
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
protect your hands when necessary.
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
unverified short cuts.
• Do get someone to check periodically
Electric shock • Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
that all is well when working alone on the
and cause injury.
• Ignition HT vehicle.
voltage can be • Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
dangerous, where someone can trip over them. Mop
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
especially to up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
people with heart
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
working on the vehicle – especially the
problems or a
near a vehicle being worked on.
electrical system.
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
ignition system with
equipment has a safe working load rating
the engine running or
adequate for the job.
the ignition switched on.
Roadside repairs
0•6
Jacking, vehicle support and wheel changing
trim , then withdraw the jack and stow the
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit automatic transmission models. Place chocks
wheel and jack in thier respective locations.
should only be used for changing roadwheels. at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally
When jacking up the vehicle with a trolley
When carrying out any other kind of work, opposite the one to be changed.
jack, position the jack under one of the
raise the vehicle using a trolley jack, and Where applicable, remove the wheel trim
relevant jacking point (note that on P100
always supplement the jack with axle stands and slacken the wheel nuts using the wheel
models, the jackng points for use with a trolley
positioned under the vehicle jacking points. brace provided in the vehicle tool kit. Position
jack are different to those for use with the
To change a roadwheel, first remove the the jack head under the jacking point nearest
vehicle jack). Do not jack the vehicle under the
spare wheel and jack from their stowage to the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack
sump or or any of the steering or suspension
positions. On Saloon, Hatchback and Estate until the wheel is clear of the ground, then
remove the wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the components. Supplement the jack using axle
models, the jack and spare wheel are located
spare wheel and secure it with the wheel nuts. stands. The jacking points and axle stand
in the luggage compartment. On P100
Lower the jack until the wheel is just touching positions are shown in the accompanying
models, the jack is located behind the
the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts illustrations. Never work under, around or near
passenger seat, and the spare wheel is
moderately tight. Now lower the jack fully and a raised vehicle unless it is adequately
located under the rear of the cargo area.
tighten the wheel nuts securely in a diagonal supported in at least two places.
Firmly apply the handbrake and engage first
sequence. Where applicable, refit the wheel
gear on manual gearbox models or “P” on
Location of jacking points - Saloon, Location of jacking points - P100 models
Hatchback and Estate models A Jacking points for use with vehicle jack
A Jacking points for use with vehicle jack B Jacking points for use with trolley jack or axle stands
B Jacking points for use with trolley jack or
axle stands
Rear jacking point - Hatchback model Jack location by front wheel - Axle stand correctly positioned under
Hatchback model front jacking point -
Hatchback model
Roadside repairs 0•7
Towing
Push or tow starting is not possible on
Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear automatic transmission models, the towing
vehicles fitted with automatic transmission.
speed must not exceed 25 mph (40 kph), and
of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope.
the towing distance must not exceed 12 miles
Always turn the ignition key to position “II”
(20 km). For longer distances, or if
when thew vehicle is being towed, so that the
transmission damage is suspected, the
steering lock is released and the direction
propellor shaft should be removed, or the rear
indicator and brake lamps are operational.
of the vehicle should be lifted clear of the
Before being towed, release the handbrake
ground.
and place the gear lever in neutral. On
Front towing eye - Hatchback model
Rear towing eye - Hatchback model
Roadside repairs
0•8
Identifying leaks
Warning: Most automotive oils
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
The smell of a fluid leaking
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
from the car may provide a
them off skin, and change out of
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
clue to what’s leaking. Some
contaminated clothing, without
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
fluids are distinctively
delay.
decide where the leak is coming from,
coloured. It may help to clean the car
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
carefully and to park it over some clean
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
source of the leak.
giving a false impression of where the
Remember that some leaks may only
problem lies.
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Oil from filter Gearbox oil
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
Antifreeze Brake fluid Power steering fluid
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
certainly brake fluid. connectors on the steering rack.
deposit like this.
Roadside repairs 0•9
Jump starting
Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go 4 Make sure that the booster battery is
When jump-starting a car using a
flat in the first place. There are booster battery, observe the following the same voltage as the discharged
three possibilities: precautions: one in the vehicle.
The battery has been drained by
1 4 If the battery is being jump-started
4 Before connecting the booster
repeated attempts to start, or by
from the battery in another vehicle,
leaving the lights on. battery, make sure that the ignition is
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
switched off.
The charging system is not working
2 each other.
4 Ensure that all electrical equipment
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
4 Make sure that the transmission is in
or broken, alternator wiring fault or (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
alternator itself faulty). switched off.
automatic transmission).
The battery itself is at fault
3 (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
3
1 2
Connect one end of the red jump lead to Connect the other end of the red lead to Connect one end of the black jump lead
the positive (+) terminal of the flat the positive (+) terminal of the booster to the negative (-) terminal of the
battery battery. booster battery
4 Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.
Make sure that the jump leads will not
5 come into contact with the fan, drive-
belts or other moving parts of the
engine.
Start the engine using the booster
6 battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.
Weekly checks
0•10
Introduction
There are some very simple checks which If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but first time you might know about it is when your
pressures, will not only help to stop them
which could save you a lot of inconvenience brakes don't work properly. Checking the level
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
and expense. regularly will give advance warning of this kind
your life.
of problem.
These \"Weekly checks\" require no great skill Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
or special tools, and the small amount of time If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
problems. Battery-related faults are
they take to perform could prove to be very of repairing any engine damage will be far
particularly common, and a quick check on a
well spent, for example; greater than fixing the leak, for example.
regular basis will often prevent the majority of
these.
Underbonnet check points
2.0 litre OHC
Carburettor model
(air cleaner removed for clarity)
A Location of oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Brake fluid reservoir
E Windscreen washer reservoir
F Battery
2.0 litre OHC
Fuel injection model
A Oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Brake fluid reservoir
E Windscreen washer reservoir
F Battery
Weekly checks 0•11
1.8 litre CVH
Air cleaner removed for clarity
A Oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Brake fluid reservoir
E Windscreen washer reservoir
F Battery
2.0 litre DOHC
A Oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Power steering fluid reservoir
E Windscreen washer reservoir
F Battery
Weekly checks
0•12
Engine oil level
Before you start
4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
1 2
On some models, the dipstick is brightly Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
reading on the dipstick! coloured for easy identification. Refer to all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
the photos on pages 0•10 and 0•11 for the dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
exact location for each engine type withdraw it again.
The correct oil
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).
Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).
l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
3 4
Note the oil level on the end of the Oil is added through the filler cap.
If the level is too low severe engine damage dipstick, which should be between the Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the upper (“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark. funnel may help to reduce spillage . Add the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
from the lower mark to the upper mark. frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”).
Coolant level
Warning: DO NOT attempt to Car Care
l It is important that antifreeze is used in the
remove the expansion tank
l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding
pressure cap when the engine cooling system all year round, not just during
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
is hot, as there is a very great the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
risk of scalding. Do not leave alone, as the antifreeze will become too
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
diluted.
open containers of coolant
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
about, as it is poisonous.
wetness, and rectify as necessary.
1 2 3 Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
The coolant level varies with the If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
through the expansion tank filler neck
temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion
until the coolant reaches the “MAX” level
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system
the “MAX” mark. When the engine is hot, the mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far
pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn
level may rise slightly above this mark. the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off. as it will go until it is secure.
Weekly checks 0•13
Screen washer fluid level
Screenwash additives not only keep the weather - which is when you are likely to need freeze during cold weather. On no account use
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the engine antifreeze in the washer system - this
prevent the washer system freezing in cold screenwash will become too diluted, and will could discolour or damage paintwork.
1 2 3
Some models have a visible reservoir, On models with only the filler tube fitted, Top-up the washer reservoir using a
whilst others have only the filler nozzle a dipstick is fitted to show the quantity of propietary screen wash.
(arrowed) showing. Either way, the location is fluid left in the reservoir
in the same place.
Brake fluid level
Warning:Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air
which can cause a dangerous loss
of braking effectiveness.
• Make sure that your car is
on level ground.
1 2
The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
• The fluid level in the indicated on the side of the reservoir. The area around the filler cap with a clean rag
master cylinder reservoir will fluid level must be kept between the marks. before removing the cap.
drop slightly as the brake pads wear Disconnect the wiring plug (arrowed) before
down, but the fluid level must never be removing the cap.
allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.
Safety first
l If the reservoir requires repeated topping-
up this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.
3 4
When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on
l On ABS models, switch the ignition off and
inspect the reservoir. The system should surrounding paintwork. Use only the
pump the brake pedal at least 20 times or until
be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types
the pedal feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch
(see Chapter 9 for details). of fluid can cause damage to the system. After
on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will be
filling to the correct level, refit the cap
heard running. Wait until the pump stops, then
securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of
switch off the ignition.
foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.
Weekly checks
0•14
Power steering fluid level
Before you start: Safety First:
4 Park the vehicle on level ground. l The need for frequent topping-up indicates
For the check to be accurate a leak, which should be investigated
4 Set the steering wheel pointing straight- the steering must not be immediately.
ahead. turned once the engine has
4 The system should be at operating been stopped.
temperature and the engine should be
turned off.
1 2 3
The power steering fluid reservoir is The fluid level should be up to the Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of
located next to the coolant expansion “MAX” or upper “HOT” mark the specified type If the level is checked
tank. Clean around the filler cap and then cold, use the “MIN” or “FULL COLD” mark.
remove it should topping up be required. Recheck the level at operating temperature.
Electrical system If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall
4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer 4 Visually check all wiring connectors, or garage door and operate
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 13 for harnesses and retaining clips for security, and the lights. The reflected light should
details if any of the circuits are found to be for signs of chafing or damage. show if they are working properly.
inoperative.
1 2 3
If a single indicator light, brake light or If more than one indicator light or To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out.
headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb headlight has failed it is likely that either a Fit a new fuse of the same rating,
has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the available from car accessory shops.
to Chapter 12 for details. circuit (refer to “Electrical fault-finding” in It is important that you find the reason that the
If both brake lights have failed, it is possible Chapter 13). fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in
that the brake light switch above the brake The fuses are mounted in a box in the engine Chapter 13.
pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation compartment on the right-hand side of the
is described in Chapter 9. bulkhead. Remove the loose cover (and spring
clip if fitted), pulling the plastic clip, and
removing the plastic cover.
Weekly checks 0•15
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
“Safety first” at the start of this manual.
4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered with
a zinc-based primer, then painted.
1 2
The battery is located on the left-hand Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)
4 Periodically (approximately every three side of the engine compartment. The to ensure good electrical connections.
months), check the charge condition of the exterior of the battery should be inspected You should not be able to move them. Also
battery as described in Chapter 5A. periodically for damage such as a cracked check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed
4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump case or cover. conductors.
start your vehicle, see “Roadside Repairs”.
Battery corrosion can be kept to a
3 4
If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is ... as well as the battery cable clamps
minimum by applying a layer of
evident, remove the cables from the
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
battery terminals, clean them with a small wire
terminals after they are reconnected.
brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a
useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...
Wiper blades
1 2
Check the condition of the wiper blades; To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm
if they are cracked or show any signs of fully away from the glass until it locks.
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is Swivel the blade through 90°, press the
smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of locking tab(s) with your fingers, and slide the
vision, wiper blades should be renewed blade out of the arm's hooked end. On
annually, as a matter of course. refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely
into the arm.
Weekly checks
0•16
Tyre condition and pressure
New tyres should be balanced when they are
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
It is very important that tyres are in good
fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
immediately change the wheel, and have the
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will the steering and suspension components.
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
more even wear. However, if this is completely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
effective, you may have the expense of
however, the vibration is felt through the whole
“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may
replacing all four tyres at once!
car, the rear wheels could be out of balance.
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
Wheel balancing should be carried out by a
is very often the only way to overcome severe
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
tyre dealer or garage.
damage.
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
Tread Depth - visual check Tread Depth - manual check Tyre Pressure Check
1 2 3
The original tyres have tread wear safety Alternatively tread wear can be monitored Check the tyre pressures regularly with
bands (B), which will appear when the with a simple, inexpensive device known the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. as a tread depth indicator gauge. pressures immediately after the vehicle has
The band positions are indicated by a been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A). Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.
4 Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear Centre Wear Uneven Wear
Under-inflation (wear on both sides) Over-inflation Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with garages can check and adjust the wheel
the tread will not sit correctly on the road reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of alignment (or \"tracking\") for a modest charge.
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Incorrect camber or castor
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of Check and adjust pressures Repair or renew suspension parts
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Malfunctioning suspension
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
Check and adjust pressures Repair or renew suspension parts
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Unbalanced wheel
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
Repair or renew suspension parts Balance tyres
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
Hard cornering Incorrect toe setting
afterwards.
Reduce speed! Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
Weekly checks 0•17
Lubricants and fluids
Component or system Lubricant type/specification
1 Engine Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50, to API SG/CD or better
2 Manual gearbox
4-speed (A, B and C type) Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP, to Ford spec SQM-2C 9008-A
5-speed (N type) Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP, to Ford spec ESD-M2C 175-A
5-speed (MT75 type) Gear oil to Ford spec ESD-M2C 186-A
3 Automatic transmission ATF to Ford spec SQM-2C 9010-A
4 Final drive Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP to Ford spec SQM-2C 9002-AA or 9003-AA
5 Power steering ATF to Ford spec SQM-2C 9010-A
6 Brake hydraulic system Brake fluid to Ford spec Amber SAM-1C 9103-A Fluid
7 Cooling system:
SOHC engines Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec SSM-97 B-9103-A
CVH engines Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec ESD-M97B49-A
DOHC engine Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec SDM-M97B49-A
Note: From 1992, the cooling system on all models is filled with a long-life coolant mixture in production (“4-Year Longlife
Engine Coolant”/”Super Plus 40”). The manufacturers do not specify any renewal intervals for this later type of coolant as it is
intended to last the lifetime of the vehicle. Provided any topping-up is carried out with a similar coolant mixture of the correct
strength, coolant renewal is unnecessary. It is advisable to renew the coolant if the vehicle has covered a particularly high
mileage, or if the history of the car is uncertain, but this is up to the discretion of the individual owner.
CVH engines SOHC and DOHC engines
Weekly checks
0•18
Tyre pressures
Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle
handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations
Tyre pressures (cold) - lbf/in2 (bar): Front Rear
All Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models with normal load* 26 (1.8) 26 (1.8)
All Saloon and Hatchback models with full load . . . . . 29 (2.0) 36 (2.5)
Estate models with full load:
175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H and
195/65 R 14T tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 (2.0) 48 (2.8)
195/60 R 14H and 195/60 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . 29 (2.0) 36 (2.5)
P100 models with light load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 (1.8) 36 (2.5)
P100 models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 (3.5) 65 (4.5)
*Normal load is defined as up to three passengers (or equivalent). For sustained high speeds add 1.5 lbf/in2 (0.1 bar) for every 6 mph (10 km/h)
over 100 mph (160 km/h)
A light load is defined as one passenger plus up to 100 kg (220 lb) payload
Maintenance schedule
1•4
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months - whichever comes sooner
Check the engine oil level (Section 3)
Check the engine coolant level (Section 3)
(continued)
Check the brake fluid level (Section 3)
Clean radiator matrix and air conditioning condenser
Check the power steering fluid level (Section 3)
fins (where applicable) (Section 25)
Check the screen washer fluid level (Section 3)
Check air conditioning refrigerant charge (where
Visually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear
applicable) (Section 26)
or damage (Section 4)
Check final drive oil level (Section 27)
Check and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures
Lubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown
(Section 4)
linkage (Section 28)
Check and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte
Check security and condition of steering and
level - where applicable (Section 6)
suspension components, gaiters and boots
Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the
(Section 29)
wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7)
Check condition and security of driveshaft joints and
gaiters (Section 30)
Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or damage (Section 31)
6 months - whichever comes sooner Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32)
Clean idle speed control linkage at throttle (where
Renew engine oil and filter (Section 8)
applicable) (Section 33)
Check brake pads or shoes for wear (front and rear)
Road test and check operation of ABS (Section 34)
(Section 9)
Check crankcase ventilation system (Section 35)
Check operation of brake fluid level warning indicator
(Section 9)
Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid
leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
Check function and condition of seat belts
2 years - whichever comes sooner
(Section 11)
Check condition and security of exhaust system Check air cleaner inlet air temperature control
(Section 12) operation (carburettor models) (Section 36)
Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13) Renew pulse air filter element (1.6 litre CVH)
Clean oil filler cap (Section 14) (Section 37)
Check idle speed (where applicable) (Section 15) Renew air cleaner element (Section 38)
Check mixture adjustment (where applicable) Clean and inspect distributor cap and HT leads
(Section 16) (Section 39)
Check automatic transmission brake band
adjustment (Section 40)
Renew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only)
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or (Section 41)
12 months - whichever comes sooner Renew crankcase ventilation vent valve (SOHC and
DOHC) (Section 42)
Check automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)
(Section 17)
Check manual gearbox oil level (Section 18)
Check operation of latches, check straps and locks;
lubricate if necessary (Section 19)
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
Renew spark plugs (Section 20)
3 years - whichever comes sooner
Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s);
adjust or renew as necessary (Section 21) Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if
Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and necessary (Section 43)
neutralise corrosion if necessary (Section 22) Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44)
Check engine valve clearances - SOHC only Renew camshaft drivebelt (optional on SOHC
(Section 23) models - compulsory on CVH) (Section 45)
Check handbrake mechanism (Section 24) Renew coolant (Section 46)
Maintenance - component location 1•5
Underbonnet view of a 1983 2.0 litre SOHC
carburettor model (air cleaner removed)
1 Brake fluid reservoir
2 Windscreen wiper motor
3 Battery
4 Ignition coil
5 Carburettor
6 Distributor
7 Fuel pressure regulator
8 Thermostat housing
9 Radiator top hose
10 Upper fan shroud
11 Alternator
12 Windscreen washer reservoir
13 Oil filler cap
14 Cooler expansion tank
15 Suspension strut top
16 VIN plate
17 Fusebox
1
Underbonnet view of a 1985 2.0 litre SOHC
fuel injection model
1 Battery
2 Brake servo non-return valve
3 Ignition coil
4 Suspension strut top
5 Fuel filter
6 Air cleaner
7 Airflow meter
8 Fuel pressure regulator
9 Air inlet hose
10 Throttle body
11 Alternator
12 VIN plate
13 Windscreen washer reservoir
14 Coolant expansion tank
15 Oil filler cap
16 Idle speed control valve
17 Inlet manifold
18 Brake fluid reservoir
19 Fusebox
20 Windscreen wiper motor
21 Engine oil level dipstick
Maintenance - component location
1•6
Underbonnet view of a 1990 2.0 litre DOHC
fuel injection model
1 Battery
2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive valve
3 Ignition coil
4 Suspension strut top
5 Air cleaner
6 Plenum chamber
7 Idle speed control valve
8 Distributor
9 Oil filler cap
10 VIN plate
11 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck
12 Power steering fluid reservoir
13 Coolant expansion tank
14 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
15 Brake fluid reservoir
16 Inlet manifold
17 Fuel pressure regulator
18 Fusebox
19 Windscreen wiper motor
Underbonnet view of a 1989 1.8 litre (R2A)
CVH model (air cleaner removed)
1 Battery
2 Suspension strut top
3 Ignition coil
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Alternator
6 Distributor cap shroud
7 VIN plate
8 Electric cooling fan
9 Radiator top hose
10 Windscreen washer reservoir
11 Fuel vapour separator
12 Thermostat housing
13 Oil filler cap
14 Carburettor
15 Brake fluid reservoir
16 Engine oil level dipstick
17 Windscreen wiper motor
18 Fusebox
Maintenance - component location 1•7
Underbonnet view of a 1992 1.6 litre
CVH model (air cleaner removed)
1 Battery
2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive
valve
3 Suspension strut top
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Pulse-air filter
6 Vacuum-operated air valve
7 Alternator
8 Cooling fans
9 Oil filler cap
10 Thermostat housing
11 VIN plate
12 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck
13 Ignition module
14 Pulse-air control solenoid
15 CFI unit
16 Brake fluid reservoir
17 Engine oil level dipstick
18 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
Sensor
19 Fusebox
20 Windscreen wiper motor
1
Front underside view of a 1990
2.0 GLS model
1 Horns
2 Tie-rod end
3 Tie-rod
4 Gaiter
5 Coolant pump
6 Suspension lower arm
7 Anti-roll bar
8 Starter motor
9 Exhaust downpipes
10 Crossmember
11 Engine sump
12 Oil filter
13 Power steering fluid pump
14 Windscreen washer reservoir
15 Cooling fans
Maintenance - component location
1•8
Rear underside view of a Hatchback
models
1 Fuel tank
2 Suspension lower arm
3 Lower shock absorber mounting
4 Suspension crossmember
5 Suspension guide plate
6 Final drive unit
7 Exhaust system
8 Propeller shaft
9 Driveshaft
Rear underside view of a P100 model
1 Suspension leaf spring
2 Rear axle
3 Shock absorber
4 Propeller shaft
5 Exhaust system
6 Handbrake cable adjuster
7 Brake load apportioning valve
Maintenance procedures 1•9
suspension and steering components. improve the performance of the engine, and
The first step in this maintenance may prove a waste of time and money, unless
2 Introduction programme is to prepare yourself before the extensive overhaul work is carried out first.
actual work begins. Read through all the The following series of operations are those
Sections relevant to the work to be carried most often required to improve the
General information out, then make a list and gather together all performance of a generally poor-running
the parts and tools required. If a problem is engine:
This Chapter is designed to help the home
encountered, seek advice from a parts
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, Primary operations
specialist, or a dealer service department.
economy, long life and peak performance. a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
The Chapter contains a master Intensive maintenance b) Check all the engine-related fluids
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections c) Check the condition and tension of the
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
dealing specifically with each task in the auxiliary drivebelt
routine maintenance schedule is followed
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, d) Renew the spark plugs
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
component renewal and other helpful items e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
are included. Refer to the accompanying as applicable
throughout this manual, the engine will be
illustrations of the engine compartment and f) Check the condition of the air cleaner
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations the need for additional work will be minimised. filter element, and renew if necessary
of the various components. It is possible that there will be times when g) Renew the fuel filter
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the engine is running poorly due to the lack of h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and regular maintenance. This is even more likely check for fluid leaks
the following Sections will provide a planned if a used vehicle, which has not received i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings
maintenance programme, which should result regular and frequent maintenance checks, is - as applicable
in a long and reliable service life. This is a purchased. In such cases, additional work If the above operations do not prove fully
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some may need to be carried out, outside of the effective, carry out the following secondary
items but not others at the specified service regular maintenance intervals. operations:
intervals, will not produce the same results. If engine wear is suspected, a compression
Secondary operations
As you service your vehicle, you will discover test will provide valuable information
that many of the procedures can - and should - a) Check the charging system
regarding the overall performance of the main
1
be grouped together, because of the particular b) Check the ignition system
internal components. Such a test can be used
procedure being performed, or because of the c) Check the fuel system
as a basis to decide on the extent of the work
close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -
to be carried out. If, for example, a
components to one another. For example, if as applicable
compression test indicates serious internal
the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
can be inspected at the same time as the applicable
described in this Chapter will not greatly
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
3 Fluid level checks 5 Electrical system check 7 Wiper blade check
See “Weekly checks”. See “Weekly checks”. See “Weekly checks”.
4 Tyre checks 6 Battery electrolyte level check
See “Weekly checks”. See “Weekly checks”.
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months
sludge will be removed with it. Take care,
however, not to touch the exhaust or any
8 Engine oil and filter renewal other hot parts of the engine when working
under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of
scalding, and to protect yourself from
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most
possible skin irritants and other harmful
important preventative maintenance
contaminants in used engine oils, it is
procedures which can be undertaken by the
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes
this work. Access to the underside of the
diluted and contaminated, which leads to vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be
premature engine wear. raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked
2 Before starting this procedure, gather up and supported on axle stands (see
together all the necessary tools and materials. “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the
8.2 Sump drain plug location
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, drain plug is at the lowest point (see
illustration).
as it will drain better, and more built-up
Every 6000 miles or 6 months
1•10
4 For a comprehensive check, the brake disc
10 Remove the old oil and all tools from
pads should be removed and cleaned. The
under the car, then lower the car to the
operation of the caliper can then also be
ground (if applicable).
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct
Chapter 10 for further information.
grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and
5 On rear drum brake models, the brake shoe
fluids”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to
friction material can be inspected for wear
reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified
without removing the roadwheels. Working
quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for
beneath the vehicle, prise the plug from the
the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil
brake backplate, and using an inspection
a small quantity at a time until the level is up to
lamp or torch, check that the friction material
the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring
thickness is not less than the minimum given
the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
in the Specifications (see illustration). If any
Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap.
8.7 Unscrewing the oil filter
one of the shoes has worn below the
12 Start the engine and run it for a few
specified limit, the shoes must be renewed as
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
an axle set (4 shoes).
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
Position the draining container under the drain
6 At the same interval, check the function of the
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels,
pressure warning light goes out when the
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
release the handbrake and switch on the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
couple of turns. As the plug releases from the
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
filter, before the pressure builds up.
threads, move it away sharply so the stream
warning light: it should come on as the level
13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
of oil issuing from the sump runs into the
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap.
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
container, not up your sleeve! Recover the
7 On completion, refit the wheels and lower
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
sealing washer from the drain plug.
the car to the ground.
completely full, recheck the level on the
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
10 Fluid leak check
reference to “General repair procedures” in
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
the Reference section of this manual.
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if 1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
9 Front and rear brake pad/shoe
necessary. Clean the area around the drain gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
check
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
plug to the specified torque. around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
6 Move the container into position under the filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
oil filter. over a period of time some very slight
the front and rear of the car and support it
7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and seepage from these areas is to be expected
slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by vehicle support”). but what you are really looking for is any
hand the rest of the way (see illustration). 2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
Empty the oil from the old filter into the can be inspected without removing the front found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
container, and discard the filter. wheels by inserting a mirror between each by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in
8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and caliper and roadwheel (see illustration). If any this manual.
sludge from the filter sealing area on the one pad is worn down to the minimum 2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that specified thickness, all four pads (on both leaks, and investigate and rectify and
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the front wheels) must be renewed. problems found.
engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 3 It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in 3 Check the security and condition of all the
9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to order to inspect the rear disc pads. The pads engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it can be viewed through the top of the caliper all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter after removing the blanking spring clip (see in good condition. Clips which are broken or
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. illustration). If any one pad is worn down to missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug. the minimum specified, all four pads (on both pipes or wiring which could cause more
rear wheels) must be renewed. serious problems in the future.
9.2 Using a mirror to inspect the disc pad
9.3 Disc pads viewed through caliper 9.5 Brake shoe inspection hole plug
friction material for wear
inspection hole (roadwheel removed) (arrowed)
A Brake disc B Brake disc pads
Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•11
4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel, power steering and brake hoses. Renew
13 Roadwheel security check
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the With the wheels on the ground, slacken each
hose clips that secure the hoses to the system wheel nut by a quarter turn, then retighten it
components. Hose clips can pinch and immediately to the specified torque.
puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type
hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to
14 Oil filler cap check
replace them with screw-type clips.
5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and
Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
other damage. The connection between the
sludge build-up using paraffin. 15.4 Ford VV carburettor adjustment screw
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or locations
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw
up of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
deteriorated rubber.
cause oil leaks.
6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
4 If necessary, adjust the idle speed screw to
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
give the specified idle speed (see
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
15 Engine idle speed check illustration).
necessary repair work has been carried out.
5 Checking and adjustment should be
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal Caution: Refer to the readings stabilising. If this has not been
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. precautions in Section 1, possible, repeat paragraphs 3 and 4, ignoring
Check for loose connections, deteriorated Chapter 4, Part A or B (as the reference to starting the engine.
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay applicable), before proceeding.
Weber 2V carburettor
particular attention to the vent pipes and Before carrying out any carburettor
hoses which often loop up around the filler 1
adjustments, ensure that the ignition Models without stepper motor
neck and can become blocked or crimped. timing and spark plug gaps are set as
6 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle specified. To carry out the adjustments an
carburettor but note the following:
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
7 It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner
damaged sections as necessary. analyser (CO meter) will be required.
securing screws to allow easier access to the
8 From within the engine compartment,
carburettor adjustment screws but ensure
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
Ford VV carburettor that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
connected. For adjustment screw location
1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted,
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
(see illustrations).
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
deterioration.
Models with stepper motor (ESC II
securely connected and free from restrictions,
9 Where applicable, check the condition of
system)
then run the engine until it is at normal
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
operating temperature.
10 Check the condition of all exposed wiring 8 The idle speed is controlled by the ESC II
2 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer
harnesses. module via the stepper motor. The only idle
and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance speed adjustment possible is provided by the
with the manufacturer’s instructions. “idle speed adjustment” wire, which can be
3 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
11 Seat belt check earthed to raise the idle speed by 75 rpm. No
30 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads other method of idle speed adjustment should
are switched off (headlamps, heater blower be attempted. If the idle speed is incorrect,
1 Periodically check the belts for fraying or etc), then allow the engine to idle and check the problem should be referred to a Ford
other damage. If evident, renew the belt. the idle speed and CO content. Note that the dealer, as the problem probably lies in the
2 If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a CO reading will initially rise, then fall and finally ESC II module for which special diagnostic
stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds.
damp cloth using a little detergent only. equipment is required.
3 Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of
washers, bushes and anchor plates is
retained.
12 Exhaust system check
With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands, check the exhaust
system for signs of leaks, corrosion or
damage and check the rubber mountings for
15.7a Weber 2V carburettor adjustment 15.7b Weber 2V carburettor adjustment
condition and security. Where damage or
screw locations - 2.0 litre models up to 1985 screw locations - 1.6 litre models
corrosion are evident, renew the system
complete or in sections, as applicable, using A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw A Idle mixture screw B Idle speed screw
the information given in Chapter 4.
Every 6000 miles or 6 months
1•12
Pierburg 2V carburettor
9 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor. For adjustment screw location
(see illustration).
Weber 2V TLD carburettor
10 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor, noting the following points:
11 Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the
camshaft cover breather hose are securely
connected to the air cleaner and are free from
restrictions.
12 When warming-up the engine, run the
15.9 Pierburg 2V carburettor adjustment 15.13 Weber 2V TLD carburettor
engine until the cooling fan cuts in.
screw locations adjustment screw locations
13 For adjustment screw location (see
illustration). A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw A Idle mixture screw B Idle speed screw
Fuel injection
6 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, Models with stepper motor (ESC II
2.0 litre SOHC models
then allow the engine to idle, and using a system)
14 Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV small screwdriver or a 4.0 mm Allen key, as 13 If necessary, the mixture can be adjusted
module and the only means of adjustment applicable, adjust the mixture screw to give as described for the Ford VV carburettor with
provided is by the yellow “idle speed the specified CO content. reference to paragraphs 11 and 12 of this
adjustment” wire (Chapter 5, Section 17) which 7 Checking and adjustment should be
Section. Do not attempt to adjust the idle
allows the idle speed to be raised by 75 rpm. completed within 30 seconds of the meter
speed on completion of mixture adjustment.
2.0 litre DOHC models readings stabilising. If this has not been
For adjustment screw location (see
possible, then repeat paragraph 6.
15 Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV illustration).
8 If necessary adjust the idle speed, then
module, and manual adjustment is not
Pierburg 2V carburettor
recheck the CO content.
possible.
9 On completion of the adjustments, stop the
16 The “base” idle speed can be adjusted, 14 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
engine and disconnect the tachometer and
but only by a Ford dealer, using special carburettor.
exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof
equipment.
Weber 2V TLD carburettor
seal to the mixture screw.
15 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
Weber 2V carburettor
16 Mixture adjustment check carburettor, noting the following points:
Models without stepper motor 16 Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the
camshaft cover breather hose are securely
10 Proceed as described for the Ford VV
Caution: Refer to the
connected to the air cleaner and are free from
carburettor but note the following:
precautions in Section 1,
restrictions.
11 To remove the mixture screw tamperproof
Chapter 4, Part A or B (as
17 When warming-up the engine, run the
seal, it will be necessary to drill the seal in
applicable), before proceeding.
engine until the cooling fan cuts in.
order to prise it from the mixture screw
Before carrying out any carburettor
18 If adjustment of the mixture (CO content)
housing. Alternatively a self-tapping screw
adjustments, ensure that the ignition
is required, the air cleaner must be removed
can be used to draw out the seal. If the
timing and spark plug gaps are set as
for access to the adjustment screw, as
tamperproof seal is to be renewed, ensure
specified. To carry out the adjustments an
follows.
that a blue-coloured replacement seal is
accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
19 Remove the air cleaner, and prise the
fitted.
analyser (CO meter) will be required.
tamperproof seal from the mixture screw.
12 It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner
20 Loosely refit the air cleaner, ensuring that
securing screws to allow easier access to the
Ford VV carburettor the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover
carburettor adjustment screws, but ensure
breather hose are securely connected and
that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely
1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted
free from restrictions (there is no need to
connected.
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
secure the air cleaner in position).
securely connected and free from restrictions,
then run the engine until it is at normal 21 On completion, fit a new tamperproof seal
operating temperature. to the mixture screw (the service replacement
2 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer plug is coloured blue), and refit the air cleaner
and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance assembly.
with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fuel injection
3 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30
seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads are 2.0 litre SOHC models
switched off (headlamps, heater blower etc),
22 The idle mixture can be checked and if
then allow the engine to idle and check the idle
necessary adjusted as follows:
speed and CO content. Note that the CO
23 Run the engine until it is at normal
reading will initially rise, then fall and finally
operating temperature.
stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds.
24 Stop the engine and connect a
4 If the reading noted in paragraph 3 is not as
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in
specified, proceed as follows. 16.13 Weber 2V carburettor idle mixture
accordance with the manufacturer’s
5 Using a thin screwdriver, remove the adjustment screw location (arrowed) -
instructions.
tamperproof seal from the mixture screw. 2.0 litre models from 1985
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13
16.26 Adjusting the idle mixture - 16.34a Remove the cover from the mixture 16.34b . . . to enable mixture adjustment -
SOHC models adjustment potentiometer . . . DOHC models
side of the engine compartment, behind the
25 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 2.0 litre DOHC models
15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads MAP sensor), and turn the screw to give the
29 On models with a catalytic converter, the
(headlamps, heater blower etc) are switched specified CO content (see illustrations).
mixture is controlled by the EEC IV module.
off, then allow the engine to idle and check 35 If adjustment does not produce a change
No manual adjustment is possible.
the CO content. Note that the CO reading will in reading, the potentiometer may be at the
30 On models without a catalytic converter,
initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise. extreme of its adjustment range. To centralise
the idle mixture can be adjusted as follows:
26 If adjustment is necessary, remove the the potentiometer, turn the adjustment screw
31 Run the engine until it is at normal
tamperproof cap from the base of the airflow 20 turns clockwise followed by 10 turns anti-
operating temperature.
meter, and turn the mixture screw using a clockwise, then repeat the adjustment proce-
32 Stop the engine, and connect a
suitable Allen key to give the specified CO dure.
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in
content (see illustration). 36 Checking and adjustment should be
accordance with the equipment
27 Checking and adjustment should be completed within 30 seconds of the meter
manufacturer’s instructions.
completed within 30 seconds of the meter 1
readings stabilising. If this has not been
33 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15
15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm, for 15
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
(headlamps, heater blower, etc) are switched
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
check the CO content, and carry out further
off. Allow the engine to idle, and check the CO
check the CO content and carry out further
adjustments if necessary.
content. Note that the reading will initially rise,
adjustment if necessary.
37 On completion of adjustment, stop the
then fall and finally stabilise.
28 On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine, and disconnect the tachometer and
34 If adjustment is necessary, remove the
engine and disconnect the tachometer and
the exhaust gas analyser. Refit the cover to
cover from the mixture adjustment
exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof
the adjustment screw.
potentiometer (located at the rear right-hand
cap to the mixture screw.
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months
6 Note that if the fluid level was below the
17 Automatic transmission fluid 18 Manual gearbox oil level
minimum mark when checked or is in
constant need of topping-up, check around
level check check
the transmission for any signs of excessive
fluid leaks.If present, leaks must be rectified 1 Place the vehicle over a pit, or raise and
1 Fluid level should be checked with the
without delay. support it at front and rear. The vehicle must
transmission at operating temperature (after a
7 If the colour of the fluid is dark brown or be level for an accurate check.
run) and with the vehicle parked on level
black this denotes the sign of a worn brake 2 If the gearbox is hot after a run, allow it to
ground.
band or transmission clutches, in which case cool for a few minutes. This is necessary
2 Open and prop the bonnet. With the engine
have your Ford dealer check the transmission because the oil can foam when hot and give a
idling and the handbrake and footbrake applied, at the earliest opportunity. false level reading.
move the gear selector through all positions
three times, finishing up in position “P”,
3 Wait one minute. With the engine still idling,
withdraw the transmission dipstick (see
illustration). Wipe the dipstick with a clean
lint-free rag, re-insert it fully and withdraw it
again. Read the fluid level at the end of the
dipstick: it should be between the two
notches.
4 If topping-up is necessary, do so via the
dipstick tube, using clean transmission fluid of
the specified type (see illustration). Do not
overfill.
17.3 Automatic transmission dipstick 17.4 Topping-up the transmission fluid
5 Stop the engine, refit the dipstick and close
location and markings
the bonnet.
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
1•14
Gearbox type Oil level
All four-speed gearboxes 0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in) below lower edge of
filler/level hole
All five-speed gearboxes up to April 1984 (build Level with bottom edge of filler/level hole
code E6) except those subsequently fitted with
a modified extension housing
All five-speed gearboxes from May 1984 (build 20.0 to 25.0 mm (0.79 to 0.99 in) below lower
code EC) to end of April 1985 (build code FP) edge of filler/level hole
and all vehicles built up to April 1984 (build
code E6) subsequently fitted with a modified
gearbox extension housing
18.3 Gearbox filler/level plug location
(arrowed) - N type gearbox All five-speed gearboxes from May 1985 0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in)below lower edge of
filler/level hole
3 Wipe clean around the filler/level plug.
Note: The vehicle build code appears as the twelfth and thirteenth characters of the VIN number
Unscrew the plug and remove it (see
on the plate in the engine compartment.
illustration).
4 Using a suitably marked piece of bent wire
8 On DOHC models before refitting the spark
as a dipstick, check that the oil level is as
plugs, coat their threads with suitable anti-
shown in the table at the top of this page, Number each HT lead using
seize compound, taking care not to
according to gearbox type. sticky tape or paint before
contaminate the electrodes.
5 Top-up the level if necessary, using clean removal so as to avoid
9 Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill, as this confusion when refitting.
tighten them to the specified torque. Do not
can lead to leakage and difficult gear
exceed the torque figure.
changing. Allow excess oil to drip out of the 3 Where necessary, for improved access
10 Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
filler/level hole if necessary. Refit and tighten remove the air cleaner and/or the inlet hose.
plugs, and where applicable refit the air
the filler/level plug on completion. 4 Disconnect the leads from the plugs by
cleaner and/or inlet hose.
6 The frequent need for topping-up can only pulling on the connectors, not the leads.
be due to leaks, which should be rectified. 5 On 2.0 litre DOHC carburettor models, the
The most likely sources of leaks are the rear location of the spark plugs and the close
21 Auxiliary drivebelt check
extension housing and input shaft oil seals. proximity of the carburettor makes spark plug
7 No periodic oil changing is specified, and access difficult, particularly when removing
no drain plug is fitted. the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3. It is
1 Refer to the Specifications at the beginning
suggested that a 3/8 inch ratchet drive spark
of this Chapter and check the tension of each
plug socket with rubber insert and long
19 Hinge and lock check and drivebelt at the point stated. Check the full
extension bar is used, possibly in conjunction
lubrication length of each drivebelt for cracks and
with a universal joint adapter. It is also
deterioration. It will be necessary to turn the
advisable to disconnect No 3 cylinder HT lead
engine in order to check that portion of the
1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the from the distributor first, to allow some slack
drivebelt in contact with the pulleys. Renew or
bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light for disconnection at the spark plug.
tension each belt as necessary as follows,
machine oil. 6 Clean the area around each spark plug
according to model type:
2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release using a small brush, then using a plug
mechanism and exposed sections of inner spanner (preferably with a rubber insert), SOHC models
cable with a smear of grease. unscrew and remove the plugs (see
2 Note that two drivebelts are fitted to models
3 Check the security and operation of all illustration). Cover the spark plug holes with
equipped with power steering and both
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any
should be renewed if either one is
where required. Where applicable, check the foreign matter.
unserviceable. Where fitted, the air
operation of the central locking system. 7 Before fitting new spark plugs, check that
conditioning compressor is driven by a
4 Check the condition and operation of the the threaded connector sleeves are tight. As
separate belt.
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is the plugs incorporate taper seats, make sure
3 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
leaking or is no longer able to support the that the threads and seats are clean.
4 Where applicable, remove the air
tailgate securely when raised.
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
5 Loosen the alternator mounting and
20 Spark plug renewal adjustment nuts and bolts, and pivot the
alternator towards the cylinder block.
6 Slip the drivebelt(s) from the alternator,
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is water pump, crankshaft and (where
vital for the correct running and efficiency of applicable) the power steering pump pulleys.
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted 7 Fit the new drivebelt(s) over the pulleys,
are appropriate for the engine. then lever the alternator away from the
2 Make sure that the ignition is switched off cylinder block until the specified belt tension
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they is achieved. Lever the alternator using a
carry their cylinder numbers. Note that the wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to
position of No 1 cylinder HT lead in the prevent damage and straining the brackets. It
distributor cap is marked with either a pip, or 20.6 Removing a spark plug - CVH engine is helpful to partially tighten the adjustment
a number “1 “. link bolt before tensioning the drivebelt(s).
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15
maintenance apart from having the case kept
steering, the drivebelt is tensioned by moving
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
the alternator. On models with power steering,
2 To clean the battery terminals disconnect
the power steering pump is also driven by the
them, after having first removed the cover
coolant pump/alternator drivebelt and an
(later models) - negative earth first. Use a wire
automatic belt tensioner is fitted (see
brush or abrasive paper to clean the
illustration). On models with air conditioning,
terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated
the drivebelt drives the alternator, coolant
with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied
pump, power steering pump and air
with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution
conditioning compressor, and an automatic
get inside the battery.
belt tensioner is fitted.
3 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
13 On models without power steering, loosen
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts,
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and
and pivot the alternator towards the cylinder
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by
block. Slip the drivebelt from the pulleys.
21.8 Alternator mounting tightening
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.
14 On models with power steering, the
sequence - SOHC engines
4 Keep the top of the battery clean and dry.
automatic tensioner can be released using a
8 Tighten the alternator mounting and
Inspect the battery tray for corrosion, and
17 mm socket and a wrench on the boss in
adjustment nuts and bolts in the order shown
make good as necessary.
the centre of the pulley. Lever the tensioner
(see illustration).
assembly clockwise, slide the belt from the
9 Where applicable, refit and tension the air
pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.
23 Engine valve clearance
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
15 To fit a new belt on models without
check
10 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
power steering, slide the belt over the pulleys,
11 Drivebelt tension should be rechecked
then lever the alternator away from the
and if necessary adjusted after the engine has
cylinder block until the correct belt tension is
It will be easier to turn the
been run for a minimum of ten minutes.
achieved. Lever the alternator using a plastic
engine by hand if the spark
or wooden lever at the pulley end to prevent
DOHC models plugs are removed but take
damage. It is helpful to partially tighten the
12 Three different types of drivebelt care not to allow dirt to enter
adjustment link bolt before tensioning the
arrangement are used, depending on model 1
the spark plug holes.
drivebelt. When the correct tension is
(see illustrations). On models without power
achieved, tighten all the bolts.
16 To fit a new belt on models with power SOHC engines
steering, lever the tensioner clockwise as
1 The valve clearances must be checked with
during removal, then slide the belt over the
the engine cold. On carburettor models
pulleys, and slowly release the tensioner.
remove the air cleaner.
2 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and release them from the clips on the
22 Battery terminal check
camshaft cover.
3 On fuel injection models, unbolt and
remove the bracing strut securing the inlet
Caution: Before carrying out
manifold to the right-hand side of the cylinder
any work on the vehicle battery,
head.
read through the precautions
21.12a Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
4 Where applicable, unclip any hoses and
given in “Safety first!” at the
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine
beginning of this manual. wires from the camshaft cover, then unscrew
without power steering
the securing bolts and remove the camshaft
1 Alternator 3 Crankshaft cover and gaskets. Take care not to lose the
1 The battery fitted as original equipment is
2 Coolant pump pulley spacer plates which fit under the bolt heads,
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
where applicable.
21.12b Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt 21.12c Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with
power steering power steering and air conditioning
21.12d Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt
4 Crankshaft pulley
1 Alternator 4 Air conditioning
1 Alternator tensioner indicator position -
compressor
2 Automatic belt 5 Power steering 2 Automatic belt 2.0 litre DOHC engine
5 Crankshaft pulley
tension pump tensioner
6 Power steering Inset shows tensioner at maximum
3 Coolant pump 3 Coolant pump
pump adjustment
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
1•16
23.6 Cam lobe correctly positioned for 23.7a Using a feeler gauge to check a 23.7b Adjusting a valve clearance
checking valve clearance. Insert feeler valve clearance
gauge as shown by arrow
nut, then tighten the locknut (see
5 Numbering from the front (camshaft
25 Radiator matrix and air
sprocket) end of the engine, the exhaust illustrations). Allowance must be made for
valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7, and the inlet valves tightening the locknut, as this tends to conditioner condenser clean
are 2, 4, 6 and 8. decrease the valve clearance. Recheck the
6 Turn the engine clockwise using a suitable adjustment after tightening the locknut. Gain access to the radiator matrix by
socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the 8 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs removing the surrounding body panels, fan
exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder (valve No 1) is 6 and 7 for the remaining valves. With the shrouds, etc. Clean dirt and debris from the
fully closed; ie the cam lobe is pointing carburettor/inlet manifold fitted, some diffi- matrix using an air jet or water and a soft
vertically upwards (see illustration). culty may be experienced when adjusting the brush. Be careful not to damage the fins or
7 Insert a feeler blade of the correct thickness exhaust valve clearances, and a suitable cut your fingers.
(see Specifications) between the cam follower open-ended spanner bent to 90º will be found Remove the protecting grille and clean any
and the heel of the No 1 valve cam lobe. The helpful. leaves, insects etc. from the air conditioner
feeler blade should be a firm sliding fit. If not, 9 Check the condition of the camshaft cover condenser coil and fins. Be very careful not to
loosen the locknut and adjust the ball-pin damage the condenser fins: use a soft brush, or
gasket, and renew if necessary. Fit the gasket
position accordingly by turning the adjuster a compressed air jet, along (not across) the fins.
to the camshaft cover ensuring that the
locating tabs and dovetails are correctly
located (see illustration), then refit the 26 Air conditioner refridgerant
camshaft cover and tighten the securing bolts
charge check
in the order shown (see illustration), ensuring
that the spacer plates are in position under
1 If applicable, remove the radiator grille
the bolt heads, where applicable.
being careful not to damage the condenser
10 On fuel injection models, refit the inlet
fins.
manifold bracing strut.
2 Check the refrigerant charge as follows.
11 Where applicable refit the spark plugs. The engine should be cold and the ambient
Reconnect the HT leads and locate them in temperature should be between 64° and 77°F
the clips on the camshaft cover. (18° and 25°C).
12 Where applicable, refit any wires and 3 Start the engine and allow it to idle.
hoses to the clips on the camshaft cover and Observe the refrigerant sight glass (see
23.9a Camshaft cover gasket dovetails on carburettor models, refit the air cleaner. illustration) and have an assistant switch on
the air conditioning to fan speed III. A few
DOHC and CVH engines
bubbles should be seen in the sight glass as
13 These engines are fitted with hydraulic the system starts up, but all bubbles should
cam followers therefore no adjustment is disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent
necessary. bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the
refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the
24 Handbrake check
Chock the front roadwheels and jack the
rear wheels clear of the ground, supporting
the vehicle with axlestands.
Check that with the handbrake released,
the rear wheels are free to rotate and no brake
23.9b Camshaft cover bolts (A) and spacer “bind” is evident. The handbrake lever travel
plates (B) should be between two and four clicks of the
Tighten bolts in following stages: ratchet. If brake “bind” or excessive lever
Stage 1 Bolts 1 to 6 travel is evident, check the handbrake cable
Stage 2 Bolts 7 and 8 routing and check the self-adjuster
26.3 Air conditioning system refrigerant
Stage 3 Bolts 9 and 10 mechanism for wear or damage. Refer to
sight glass (arrowed)
Stage 4 Bolts 7 and 8 (again) Chapter 10 for full service information.
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•17
system immediately if the charge is low and
do not use it again until it has been recharged.
4 Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5 The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year -
so it is as well to regard periodic recharging
as a maintenance operation.
27 Final drive oil level check
27.3a Final drive unit filler plug location 27.3b Rear axle filler plug location -
(arrowed) - P100 models
1 Check the final drive oil level as follows. Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models
2 Steam-cleaning is available at many
2 Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
4 Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by garages and is necessary for the removal of
front and rear on ramps or axle stands. The
spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any the accumulation of oily grime which
vehicle must be level.
roughness or excessive noise indicates worn sometimes is allowed to become thick in
3 Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
bearings, which must be renewed, as no certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
plug (see illustrations) and unscrew the
adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any not available, there are some excellent grease
plug. Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick,
wear will be evident unless the vehicle has solvents available which can be brush-
check that the oil is no more than 10 mm (0.4
covered a very high mileage. It should be applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
in) below the plug hole.
3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
noted that it is normal for the bearings to
4 If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
wheel rock at the wheel rim.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
4 Using a strong light, work around the
to leaks, which should be rectified. underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
1
5 When the level is correct, refit the filler/level corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer
30 Driveshaft check
plug and tighten it to the specified torque to Chapter 12 for details of repair.
loading.
6 There is no requirement for periodic oil 1 Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
changing, and no drain plug is provided. front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see 32 Brake pipe and hose check
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
28 Automatic transmission
Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
selector linkage lubrication rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
be renewed without delay to avoid damage
Lubricate the transmission selector and assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
occurring to the joint itself
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks.
3 Check the tightness of the final drive
lubricant. Renew any defective item without delay.
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange screws.
29 Steering and suspension
33 Idle speed linkage clean
31 Underbody inspection
security check
1 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing On carburettor models which incorporate a
1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based
the vehicle up and down at each corner in stepper motor (ie. Weber 2V from 1985), good
underbody protective coating, have the whole
turn. When released, it should come to rest electrical contact between the motor plunger
of the underframe of the vehicle steam-
within one complete oscillation. Continued and the adjusting screw is essential to
cleaned, engine compartment included, so
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises maintain a regular idle speed.
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
from the shock absorber suggests that Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
renewal is required . contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
necessary.
2 Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
steering and suspension components for available from electronic component shops.
wear and damage. Pay particular attention to
dust covers and gaiters, which if renewed
promptly when damaged can save further 34 Road test
damage to the component protected.
3 At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
Instruments and electrical
levering up the arms (see illustration).
equipment
Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5
1 Check the operation of all instruments and
mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints can
electrical equipment.
be checked in a similar manner, or by
2 Make sure that all instruments read
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
correctly, and switch on all electrical
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
equipment in turn to check that it functions
29.3 Levering up lower arm to check
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
properly.
balljoint for wear
be renewed .
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
1•18
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
14 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed.
After about four or five applications, no further
35.1 Loosening the crankcase ventilation 35.3 Oil separator (1) and mushroom valve
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
hose clip - CVH models (2) locations in air cleaner - CVH models
feel considerably firmer.
Steering and suspension 9 Where applicable, check that the clutch
action is smooth and progressive, that the
3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, 35 Crankcase ventilation system
drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
suspension, handling or road “feel”. check
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
no unusual vibrations or noises. 1 Inspect the crankcase ventilation system
10 Check that all gears can be engaged
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with smoothly, without noise, and that the gear lever for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. cause a build-up of crankcase pressure,
check for any suspension noises when which in turn can cause oil leaks (see
Check the operation and
cornering, or when driving over bumps. illustration).
performance of the braking 2 On carburettor model SOHC engines, clean
Drivetrain system the oil filler cap with paraffin and check that
6 Check the performance of the engine, 11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to the vent valve is not blocked by pulling it from
clutch, transmission and driveshafts. one side when braking, and that the wheels the oil separator and loosening the hose clip
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the do not lock prematurely when braking hard. (Section 42).
engine, clutch and transmission. 12 Check that there is no vibration through 3 On CVH engines, check that the oil
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly the steering when braking. separator and mushroom valve are not
when idling, and that there is no hesitation 13 Check that the handbrake operates blocked, and clean if necessary (see
when accelerating. correctly, without excessive movement of the illustration).
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years
4 Working under the base of the air cleaner
2 To check the operation of the air
36 Air cleaner inlet air body, disconnect the diaphragm unit-to-heat
temperature control, the engine must be cold.
sensor vacuum pipe at the sensor end, and
First observe the position of the flap valve
temperature control check
connect a vacuum pump to the diaphragm unit.
which should be fully closed prior to starting
Apply a vacuum of 100.0 mm (4.0 in) of mercury.
the engine (see illustration). The position of
SOHC and DOHC carburettor 5 If the flap opens, then the heat sensor is
the flap can be observed by disconnecting the
models faulty and should be renewed. If the flap
cold air inlet hose from the air cleaner spout
remains closed, then the diaphragm unit is
and looking into the spout.
1 A vacuum pump will be required to test the
faulty, and a new air cleaner body will have to
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
control components.
be obtained, as the diaphragm unit is not
that the flap is now fully open to admit hot air
available separately.
from the exhaust manifold shroud. If the flap
6 On completion of the checks, disconnect
does not fully open, stop the engine and
the vacuum pump, and reconnect the vacuum
check the vacuum diaphragm unit and heat
pipe and cold air inlet hose.
sensor as follows (see illustrations).
36.2 Air cleaner flap valve operation -
OHC models
A Flap fully open to admit hot air 36.3a Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm unit - 36.3b Air cleaner heat sensor viewed from
B Flap fully closed to admit cold air OHC models inside air cleaner - OHC models
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years 1•19
37 Pulse air filter element
renewal (1.6 litre CVH)
1 The pulse-air filter is located at the front
left-hand side of the engine compartment.
2 To renew the element, simply unclip the
filter cover, then lift out the metal gauze, and
withdraw the filter element (see illustration).
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the holes in the gauze and the filter
element are positioned on the engine side of
the filter housing.
36.7 Air cleaner flap valve operation - CVH models
3 Flap valve
A Flap fully open to admit hot air
38 Air cleaner element renewal
4 Link arm
B Flap fully closed to admit cold air
5 Waxstat
1 Air inlet spout
6 Air cleaner body
2 Hot air inlet hose
Carburettor models
CVH carburettor models 1 Remove the screws from the top of the air
cleaner cover (see illustration).
7 To test the unit the engine must initially be
2 Where applicable release the spring clips
cold. Disconnect the hot air inlet hose from
around the edge of the cover, then lift or prise
the air cleaner spout and observe the position
off the cover (see illustration).
of the flap which should be fully open to allow
3 Lift out the air cleaner element. Wipe the
only hot air to enter (see illustration).
inside of the air cleaner body clean, taking
8 Refit the hose and warm up the engine to
care not to allow dirt to enter the carburettor
normal operating temperature.
throat. Also clean the inside of the cover.
1
9 Disconnect the hot air inlet hose again, and
4 Place a new element in position, then refit
observe the position of the flap which should
the air cleaner cover.
be fully closed to admit only cold air.
Fuel-injection models
10 If the flap positions are not as described,
the waxstat is defective and the complete air
All models except 2.0 litre DOHC
cleaner must be renewed as the waxstat is
5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
37.2 Withdrawing the pulse-air filter not available separately.
6 Depress the locking clip on the airflow
element and gauze - 1.6 litre CVH models 11 On completion of the checks, stop the
meter wiring plug and disconnect the plug.
engine and reconnect the hot air inlet hose.
Pull on the plug, not the wiring (see
illustration).
7 Loosen the securing clip and disconnect
the air inlet hose from the airflow meter.
8 Release the four securing clips and lift off
the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter.
9 Lift out the old air cleaner element (see
illustration), then wipe the inside of the air
cleaner casing and lid clean.
10 Fit the new element with the sealing lip
uppermost.
11 Refit the air cleaner lid and secure with
the four clips.
12 Reconnect the air inlet hose to the airflow
meter, ensuring that the securing clip is
38.1 Remove the air cleaner cover 38.2 . . . release the spring clips, and lift off correctly aligned (see illustration). Reconnect
screws . . . the cover for access to the element the wiring plug.
38.6 Disconnecting the airflow meter 38.9 Unclip the lid and remove the air 38.12 Air intake hose clip correctly aligned
wiring plug cleaner element
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
1•20
2 The brake band adjuster screw(s) is/are
situated on the left-hand side of the
transmission housing, forward of the
kickdown lever. Note that the C3 type
transmission has a single adjuster screw for
adjustment of the front brake band, whereas
the A4LD type transmission has two adjuster
screws for adjustment of the front and
intermediate brake bands (see illustration).
3 Disconnect the kickdown cable from the
kickdown lever on the transmission housing.
4 Loosen the locknut on the front brake band
adjuster screw, and back off the adjuster
screw several turns.
38.17 Air intake tube securing nut 38.19 Lifting out the air cleaner element
5 Using the Ford special tool or a suitable
(arrowed)
equivalent, tighten the adjuster screw to the
13 Reconnect the battery negative lead. deposits from the connectors and terminals.
specified torque, then back off the screw two
Also clean the coil tower.
2.0 litre DOHC models complete turns, and tighten the locknut.
5 Renew the HT leads if they are cracked,
Ensure that the adjuster screw does not turn
14 Disconnect the battery negative lead. burnt or otherwise damaged. If a multi-meter
as the locknut is tightened.
15 Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle is available, measure the resistance of the
6 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
speed control valve at the front of the plenum leads. The desired value is given in the
4 and 5 for the remaining adjuster screw on
chamber. Specifications of Chapter 5.
A4LD type transmissions, but on all models
16 Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet 6 Renew the distributor cap if it is cracked or
where the part number on the transmission
hose from the air inlet tubing. badly burnt inside, or if there is evidence of
identification tag starts with “88” (see
17 Unscrew the securing nut, and release the “tracking” (black lines marking the path of HT
illustration) and additionally on all 1.8 CVH
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine leakage). If there is a carbon brush at the
engine models, the adjuster screw should be
compartment front panel (see illustration). centre of the cap, make sure that it moves
backed off two and a half turns after
18 Release the air cleaner lid securing clips, freely, and is not excessively worn (see
tightening to the specified torque. On all other
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum illustration).
models, the adjuster screw should be backed
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly, 7 Clean the metal track of the rotor arm with
off two turns.
disconnecting the breather hose from the air fine abrasive paper. Renew the arm if it is
7 Reconnect the kickdown cable, and lower
inlet tube. cracked or badly burnt.
the vehicle to the ground on completion.
19 Lift out the air cleaner element (see 8 Refit the rotor arm and distributor cap.
illustration), then wipe the inside of the air 9 Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs
cleaner lid and casing clean. and coil.
41 Fuel filter renewal
20 Fit the new element with the sealing lip 10 Reconnect the battery and run the engine.
uppermost.
21 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
Caution: Refer to the
40 Automatic transmission
precautions in Chapter 4, Part
brake band adjustment
39 Ignition system component B, Section 1 before proceeding.
check
2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection
Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool
models
No 17-005, or a conventional torque wrench
1 Before disturbing any part of the ignition and a splined socket of suitable size to fit the 1 The fuel filter is located on the left-hand
system, disconnect the battery negative lead. square section head of the adjuster screw(s) side of the engine compartment (see
2 Identify and clearly mark all HT leads before will be required for this operation. illustration).
disconnecting them from the spark plugs. 1 For improved access, apply the handbrake, 2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Refer to the appropriate Section in Chapter then jack up the front of the vehicle and 3 Position a suitable container beneath the
5 and, where applicable, remove the support on axle stands (see “Jacking and filter, then slowly loosen the fuel inlet union to
distributor cap and rotor arm. vehicle support”). relieve the pressure in the fuel lines.
4 Clean the HT leads and distributor cap with
4 Disconnect the fuel inlet and outlet unions.
a dry cloth. Scrape any corrosion or other
Be prepared for petrol spillage. If necessary,
identify the fuel line unions for use when
refitting.
5 Loosen the filter clamp screw, and
withdraw the filter from the clamp. Drain the
petrol from the filter into the container.
Dispose of the filter carefully.
40.2 Brake band adjustment - A4LD type
transmission
39.6 Bosch distributor cap showing HT A Adjuster screws C Kickdown lever 40.6 Transmission identification tag with
segments (A) and carbon brush (B) B Locknuts part number starting with “88”
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years 1•21
41.1 Fuel filter location - outlet union 41.10 Fuel filter location (arrowed) under 42.1 Removing the crankcase vent valve
arrowed rear of vehicle from the oil separator
6 Fit the new filter, ensuring that the arrows on models, noting the following points.
42 Crankcase ventilation vent
the filter body point in the direction of fuel flow. 10 The fuel filter is located under the rear of
7 Tighten the clamp screw, and reconnect valve renewal
the vehicle, above the driveshaft (see
the fuel inlet and outlet unions. Ensure that the illustration). For access to the filter, chock
unions are correctly connected. On carburettor model SOHC engines,
the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the
8 Reconnect the battery negative lead, and renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve by
vehicle and support it on axle stands.
check the fuel line unions for leaks, pulling it from the oil separator and loosening
11 To remove the filter, the mounting bracket
pressurising the system by switching the the hose clip (see illustration). Fit the new
must first be removed from the floor, after
ignition on and off several times. valve, tighten the clip, and insert it into the oil
unscrewing the securing bolt. The filter can
separator grommet.
All models except 2.0 litre SOHC then be removed from the bracket after
unscrewing the clamp bolt.
9 Proceed as described for the 2.0 litre SOHC
1
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years
8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
43 Brake hydraulic system seal caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
45 Camshaft drivebelt renewal
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
and hose renewal
9 Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
bleed screw yet. recommended as a precautionary measure for
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid. SOHC engines but is compulsory for CVH
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand engines. Refer to Chapter 2 for the
Sections of Chapter 10.
caliper at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the appropriate renewal procedure.
level of the bleed screw.
11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
44 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the 46 Engine coolant renewal
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will
12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
be needed. A considerable quantity of Caution: Before proceeding,
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear
hydraulic fluid will be required - probably note the precautions given in
of the piston. Have the assistant depress the
about 2 litres (nearly half a gallon). Chapter 3, Section 1.
brake pedal gently in order to move the
2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
caliper piston out. 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
support the front of the vehicle and remove
13 With the pedal held depressed, slacken 2 It is preferable to drain the cooling system
the front wheels.
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and with the engine cold. If this is not possible,
3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
take precautions against scalding when
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
removing the expansion tank cap. Place a
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
thick rag over the cap and slacken the cap a
can now be released.
the free end of each tube in a jar.
little to release any pressure. When all
14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-
5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
pressure has been released, carry on
hand brake pad and caliper.
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
unscrewing the cap and remove it.
15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
3 Early models have no radiator drain plug, so
pad again. Carry out the operations described
6 When air emerges from both bleed screws,
the radiator must be drained by detaching the
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
bottom coolant hose from the outlet on the
caliper.
without disconnecting it and remove the
right-hand side of the radiator. Later SOHC
16 Bleed the rear brakes (Chapter 10).
inboard brake pad.
models have a drain plug located in the base
17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
7 Depress the caliper piston, using a
of the left-hand radiator end tank, whilst all
and tighten the wheel nuts.
purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a
CVH models have a drain plug in the
18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the
right-hand radiator end tank and DOHC
up to the discs, then make a final check of the
caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have
models have a plug to the bottom right-hand
hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges
side of the radiator.
reservoir cap.
from the bleed screw again.
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
1•22
46.4 Unscrew the clip and remove the 46.6a Disconnect the bottom hose from 46.6b Radiator drain plug (arrowed) - later
rubber cap from the bleed spigot - the radiator - early OHC models CVH models
SOHC models
8 Dispose of the drained coolant safely.
4 Certain SOHC models have a bleed spigot and insert the hose into the cylinder head on
9 After some time the radiator and engine SOHC models, or into the inlet manifold on
on the thermostat housing, which is covered
waterways may become restricted or even CVH and DOHC models. Continue flushing
by a rubber cap. The cap should be removed
blocked with scale or sediment, which until clear water runs from the bottom hose
from the spigot before commencing draining
reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. (and cylinder block on SOHC models).
(see illustration).
When this occurs, the coolant will appear 15 Where applicable, refit the radiator and
5 With the expansion tank cap removed,
rusty and dark in colour and the system the thermostat.
place a suitable container beneath the
should then be flushed. 16 Reconnect any disturbed hoses and refit
radiator bottom hose or drain plug as
10 Disconnect the top hose from the radiator, and tighten the cylinder block drain plug
applicable.
then insert a garden hose and allow water to and/or radiator drain plug, as applicable.
6 On early models, loosen the clip and ease
circulate through the radiator until it runs clear 17 On SOHC models fitted with a bleed
the bottom hose away from the radiator
from the outlet. spigot on the thermostat housing, ensure that
outlet. On later models, unscrew the drain
11 Insert the hose in the expansion tank filler the rubber cap is removed before refilling the
plug (see illustrations). Allow the coolant to
neck and allow water to run out of the bottom
system.
drain into the container.
hose (and cylinder block on SOHC models)
18 Pour coolant in through the expansion
7 On SOHC models, place a second
until clear. If, after a reasonable period the
container beneath the drain plug on the tank filler hole until the level is up to the
water still does not run clear, the radiator can
right-hand side of the cylinder block (see “MAX” mark.
be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning
illustration). Unscrew the drain plug and 19 Where applicable, refit the rubber cap to
agent.
allow the coolant to drain into the container. the bleed spigot when coolant starts to
12 Disconnect the inlet hose from the inlet
No cylinder block drain plug is fitted on CVH emerge from the spigot. Tighten the clip.
manifold, connect the garden hose and allow
and DOHC models. 20 Squeeze the coolant hoses to help
water to circulate through the manifold,
disperse air locks. Top-up the coolant further
automatic choke (where applicable), heater
if necessary, then refit and tighten the
and out through the bottom hose until clear.
expansion tank cap.
13 In severe cases of contamination the
21 Run the engine up to operating
system should be reverse flushed. To do this,
temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop
remove the radiator, invert it and insert a hose
the engine and allow it to cool, then re-check
in the outlet. Continue flushing until clear
the coolant level. Top-up the level as
water runs from the inlet.
necessary, taking care to avoid scalding as
14 The engine should also be reverse
flushed. To do this, remove the thermostat the expansion tank cap is removed.
46.7 Cylinder block drain plug (arrowed) -
SOHC models (engine removed)
SOHC engines 2A•7
Piston ring end gap:
Top:
Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.048 mm
From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 0.600 mm
Centre:
Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.048 mm
From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 0.600 mm
Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 1.400 mm
Auxiliary shaft
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)
Cylinder head
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine
Valves
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:
Valve clearance (cold engine):
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.003 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)
Valve timing: All except code NAE Engine code NAE
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24º BTDC 18º BTDC
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64º ABDC 58º ABDC
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70º BBDC 70º BBDC
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18º ATDC 6º ATDC
Lubrication system
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
2A
Fuel injection models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 to 130 85 to 96
Fuel injection models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 to 115 74 to 85
drilled spray tube from the centre camshaft 2 The engine must be at operating
bearing. temperature, the battery must be fully
1 General information A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system charged and the spark plugs must be
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases removed. The services of an assistant will also
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil be required.
The engine is of a four-cylinder, in-line,
separator and control valve. 3 Disable the ignition system by
single overhead camshaft type, mounted at
the front of the vehicle and available in 1.3, disconnecting the coil LT feed. Fit the
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre versions. compression tester to No 1 spark plug hole.
2 Engine oil and filter - renewal
The crankshaft incorporates five main (The type of tester which screws into the
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the spark plug hole is to be preferred.)
centre main bearing in order to control 4 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 8.
crankshaft endfloat. open and crank the engine on the starter.
The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt Record the highest reading obtained on the
3 Valve clearances - checking and
and operates the slightly angled valves via compression tester.
adjustment
cam followers which pivot on ball-pins. 5 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
The auxiliary shaft which is also driven by recording the pressure developed in each.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 23.
the toothed belt, drives the distributor, oil 6 Desired pressures are given in the
pump and fuel pump.
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
The cylinder head is of crossflow design 4 Crankcase ventilation system - is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left- inspection and maintenance engine oil into the spark plug hole and repeat
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
the test.
on the right-hand side. Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35. 7 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
the compression pressure, this indicates that
which draws oil through a strainer located
bore, piston or piston ring wear was
inside the sump, and forces it through a full- 5 Compression test responsible for the pressure loss. No
flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are 1 When engine performance is poor, or if
blame.
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
8 A low reading from the two adjacent
crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
cylinders is almost certainly due to the head
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends. can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
gasket between them having blown.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied performed regularly it can give warning of
9 On completion of the test, refit the spark
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The trouble before any other symptoms become
camshaft followers are supplied with oil via a apparent. plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
2A•8 SOHC engines
fuel rail. Position a suitable container beneath
6 Major operations possible with 9 Engine - removal leaving the pressure regulator, then slowly loosen the
fuel feed union to relieve the pressure in the
the engine in the vehicle manual gearbox in vehicle
fuel lines before disconnecting the union.
Take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends
The following operations can be carried out Note: The air conditioning system should
of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
without removing the engine from the vehicle: always be discharged by a Ford dealer or air
14 Disconnect the throttle cable, and where
conditioning specialist.
a) Removal and servicing of the cylinder
applicable remove its bracket.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
head 15 Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
b) Removal of the camshaft after removal of coil.
will be required for this operation.
the cylinder head 16 Disconnect the wiring from the following
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
c) Removal of the timing belt and sprockets components as applicable depending on
2 Remove the bonnet.
d) Removal of the sump model:
3 On carburettor models remove the air cleaner.
e) Removal of the oil pump Alternator
4 On fuel injection models, disconnect the
f) Removal of the pistons and connecting Starter motor
crankcase ventilation hose from the air inlet
rods Distributor
hose, then disconnect the air inlet hose from
g) Removal of the big-end bearings Oil pressure warning lamp switch
the throttle body. Depress the locking clip on
h) Removal of the engine mountings Temperature gauge sender
the airflow meter wiring plug and disconnect
i) Removal of the clutch and flywheel Engine coolant temperature sensor
the plug (pulling on the plug, not the wiring)
Automatic choke
j) Removal of crankshaft front and rear oil
then release the four securing clips and lift off
Automatic choke pull-down solenoid
seals the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter and
Carburettor anti-dieselling valve
k) Removal of the auxiliary shaft air inlet hose.
Inlet manifold heater
5 Remove the four retaining clips and
Carburettor stepper motor
7 Major operations requiring unscrew the two retaining screws, then
Fuel injection harness
withdraw the upper section of the cooling fan
engine removal Dipstick
shroud from the radiator. Unclip and remove
17 Where applicable, detach the power
the lower section of the shroud.
The following operations can only be carried steering pump from the cylinder block and
6 Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan as
out after removing the engine from the move it to one side.
described in Chapter 3.
18 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
vehicle: 7 Drain the cooling system.
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
a) Removal of the crankshaft main bearings 8 Disconnect the upper radiator hose and
engine compartment. Note the location of the
b) Removal of the crankshaft where applicable, the expansion tank hose
earth strap on one of the bolts.
from the thermostat housing.
19 Note the location of the earth strap on the
9 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
8 Method of engine removal rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
coolant pump, and where applicable from the
and disconnect the strap.
inlet manifold and automatic choke. Unclip
20 Apply the handbrake (if not already done),
the coolant hose from the bracket on the
jack up the front of the vehicle and support on
Warning: Vehicles equipped exhaust manifold hot air shroud/heat shield,
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
with air conditioning: or the camshaft cover, as applicable.
21 Drain the engine oil into a suitable
Components of the air 10 On carburettor models, where applicable
container.
conditioning system may disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine
22 Remove the starter motor.
management module.
obstruct work being undertaken on the
23 Remove the exhaust downpipe.
11 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
engine, and it is not always possible to 24 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
from the inlet manifold.
unbolt and move them aside sufficiently, securing the engine mountings to the
12 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
within the limits of their flexible crossmember. Recover the washers.
hoses from the carburettor and where
connecting pipes. In such a case, the 25 Unscrew and remove the remaining
applicable the mechanical fuel pump and plug
system should be discharged by a Ford engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol
from the engine adapter plate (see
dealer or air conditioning specialist. The spillage. Remember to take adequate fire
illustration).
refrigerant is harmless under normal precautions.
26 Remove the two securing bolts and
conditions, but in the presence of a naked 13 On fuel injection models, disconnect the
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a fuel feed line from the fuel pressure regulator,
the engine and gearbox.
then disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
27 Working inside the vehicle, place a
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them it fully against its stop which will hold the
with a diluted solution of boric acid and automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
seek medical advice immediately. quadrant.
28 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
The engine may be lifted out either on its clutch release arm, and pass the cable
own, or together with the manual through the bellhousing. Where applicable,
gearbox/automatic transmission. Unless work remove the clip securing the clutch cable to
is to be carried out on the manual the right-hand engine mounting bracket. Note
gearbox/automatic transmission, it is the cable routing for use when refitting.
recommended that the engine is removed on 29 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using
its own. Where automatic transmission is
a block of wood between the jack and the
fitted, the engine should where possible be
gearbox to spread the load.
removed on its own due to the additional
30 Make a final check to ensure that all
weight of the transmission.
9.25 Engine adapter plate bolt (A) and relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
engine-to-gearbox brace (B) disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
SOHC engines 2A•9
31 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
11 Engine/manual gearbox
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of assembly - removal and
the engine. The engine should be supported separation
horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear.
32 Raise the engine until the engine
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
mountings are clear of the crossmember then proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from will be required for this operation.
the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is
Removal
adequately supported, and take care not to
strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be 1 Proceed as described in Section 9,
necessary to rock the engine a little to release paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive.
it from the gearbox. 2 Note the location of the earth strap on the
11.20 Lifting the engine/gearbox assembly
33 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
from the vehicle
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage and disconnect the strap.
the radiator fins. 3 Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the 19 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
gear lever knob and remove the centre brackets located at the front and rear of the
console. Where a full length console is fitted,
10 Engine - removal leaving cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
it is only necessary to remove the front tray. the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
automatic transmission in 4 Detach the outer gaiter from the retaining steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is
vehicle frame and withdraw it over the gear lever. being removed.
5 Unscrew the securing screws on early 20 Raise the engine/gearbox so that the
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before models, or release the clips on later models, engine mountings are clear of the
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle and remove the gaiter retaining frame and crossmember, then ease the assembly
will be required for this operation. inner gaiter. forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
1 Proceed as described in Section 9, 6 Using a suitable Torx key, remove the jack which is supporting the gearbox. Lift the
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally, screws securing the gear lever to the gearbox assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to
extension housing, and withdraw the gear
where applicable, disconnect the kickdown damage surrounding components (see
lever. Note how the base of the gear lever
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold. illustration).
locates over the selector shaft.
2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to- 21 With the engine/gearbox assembly
7 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
transmission bolts which are accessible from removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar
2A
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
the engine compartment. Note the location of to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.
Ensure that there is sufficient working room
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
Separation
beneath the vehicle.
transmission dipstick tube bracket.
8 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
3 Proceed as described in Section 9, 22 To separate the engine from the gearbox,
downpipe from the manifold and remove the proceed as follows.
paragraphs 20 to 24 inclusive.
exhaust system. 23 Remove the starter motor.
4 Working through the starter motor aperture,
9 Remove the propeller shaft. 24 Support the engine and gearbox
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
10 Where applicable bend back the locktabs, horizontally on blocks of wood.
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
then unscrew the two bolts in each case 25 Unscrew the two securing bolts and
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as the engine and gearbox.
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
far as possible. 26 Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
5 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
11 Proceed as described in Section 9, gearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
paragraphs 27 and 28. strap, and remove the bolt from the engine
from the engine adapter plate. Where
12 Drain the engine oil into a container. adapter plate.
applicable pull the blanking plug from the
13 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable, 27 Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
adapter plate.
securing the engine mountings to the care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
6 Remove the two securing bolts and
crossmember. Recover the washers. may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
14 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing separate them.
from the engine and transmission.
lamp switch.
7 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and 15 Remove the retaining circlip, and
12 Engine/automatic
support the transmission with a trolley jack, withdraw the speedometer cable from the
transmission assembly -
using a block of wood between the jack and gearbox extension housing.
the transmission to spread the load. removal and separation
16 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
8 Proceed as described in Section 9, using a block of wood between the jack and
paragraphs 30 and 31. Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
the gearbox to spread the load.
9 Raise the engine until the engine mountings proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
17 Unscrew the four bolts securing the
are clear of the crossmember, then pull the will be required for this operation. Any
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
engine forwards to disconnect it from the suspected faults in the automatic transmission
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter should be referred to a Ford dealer or
the crossmember to the gearbox and remove
automatic transmission specialist before
is held firmly in place in the transmission the crossmember. Note the position of the
removal of the unit, as the specialist fault
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
diagnosis equipment is designed to operate
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be mounting cup and where applicable the
with the transmission in the vehicle.
necessary to rock the engine a little to release exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
it from the transmission. 18 Make a final check to ensure that all Removal
10 Once clear of the transmission lift the relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
1 Proceed as described in Section 9,
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to disconnected to facilitate removal of the en-
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,
gine/gearbox assembly.
damage the radiator fins.
2A•10 SOHC engines
18 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting 7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
where applicable disconnect the kickdown
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold. brackets located at the front and rear of the quantity of oil.
2 Note the location of the earth strap on the cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that 8 Fill the cooling system.
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut the engine/transmission assembly will assume 9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
and disconnect the strap. a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it of the alternator and where applicable the
3 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle is being removed. power steering pump drivebelt(s).
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 19 Raise the engine/transmission so that the 10 Adjust the throttle cable.
Ensure that there is sufficient working room engine mountings are clear of the
beneath the vehicle. crossmember, then ease the assembly
14 Engine - refitting (automatic
4 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
transmission in vehicle)
downpipe from the manifold and remove the jack which is supporting the transmission. Lift
exhaust system. the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not
1 Reverse the procedure described in Section
5 Remove the propeller shaft. to damage surrounding components.
10, noting the following points:
6 Where applicable bend back the locktabs, 20 With the engine/transmission assembly
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is
then unscrew the two bolts, in each case removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be
3 As the torque converter is only loosely
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as moved.
engaged in the transmission, care must be
far as possible.
Separation taken to prevent the torque converter from
7 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
falling out forwards. When the torque
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug 21 To separate the engine from the
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
the open ends of the pipes and the transmission, proceed as follows.
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid 22 Remove the starter motor.
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
leakage. Remove the fluid cooler pipe bracket 23 Support the engine and transmission
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
from the engine mounting bracket, and place horizontally on blocks of wood.
torque converter will result in damage to the
it to one side. 24 Working through the starter motor
transmission.
8 Remove the two clips securing the selector aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
4 As the engine is installed, guide the torque
rod, and detach the selector rod from the to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
converter studs through the holes in the
manual selector lever, and the selector lever the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
driveplate, noting that on the C3 type
on the transmission. crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
transmission, the torque converter fluid drain
9 Disconnect the kickdown cable from the to each nut in turn through the aperture.
plug must line up with the opening in the
lever on the transmission, and where 25 Unscrew the two securing bolts and
driveplate (see illustration 2.25 in Chapter 7B).
applicable, detach the cable from the bracket disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
When the engine is positioned flush with the
on the transmission. On C3 type transmissions from the engine and transmission.
engine adapter plate and the transmission
it will be necessary to unscrew the locknut in 26 Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
housing, check that the torque converter is
order to remove the cable from the bracket. transmission bolts, noting the locations of the
free to move axially a small amount before
Withdraw the cable from the vehicle. earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
refitting and tightening the engine-to-
10 Disconnect the wiring from the starter transmission dipstick tube bracket. Remove
transmission bolts.
inhibitor/reversing lamp switch and where the bolt from the engine adapter plate, and
5 Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
applicable, on A4LD type transmissions, the where applicable pull the blanking plug from
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
kickdown solenoid and the lock-up clutch. the adapter plate.
transmission bolts have been fitted and
11 Remove the securing screw, and 27 Pull the engine and transmission apart,
tightened.
disconnect the speedometer cable from the ensuring that the torque converter is held
6 Refit the exhaust downpipe.
transmission extension housing. Plug the firmly in place in the transmission housing,
7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
opening in the transmission to prevent dirt otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid
ingress. quantity of oil.
spillage and possible damage. It may be
12 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the 8 Fill the cooling system.
necessary to rock the units slightly to
vacuum diaphragm unit, and unclip the pipe 9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
separate them.
from its securing bracket on the transmission of the alternator and where applicable the
housing where applicable. power steering pump drivebelt(s).
13 Engine - refitting (manual
13 Drain the engine oil into a suitable 10 Adjust the throttle cable.
gearbox in vehicle)
container. 11 Where applicable, adjust the kickdown
14 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable, cable.
1 Reverse the procedure described in Section
securing the engine mountings to the
9, noting the following points:
crossmember. Recover the washers.
15 Engine/manual gearbox
2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check
15 Support the transmission with a trolley
assembly - reconnection and
that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This
jack, using a block of wood to spread the load.
refitting
is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input
16 Unscrew the four bolts securing the
shaft splines will pass through the splines in
transmission crossmember to the vehicle
1 Reverse the procedure described in Section
the centre of the friction disc.
underbody. Note the position of the earth
11, noting the following points.
3 Check that the clutch release arm and
strap, where applicable. Unscrew the central
2 Before attempting to reconnect the engine
bearing are correctly fitted and lightly grease
bolt securing the crossmember to the
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
the input shaft splines.
transmission and remove the crossmember.
disc is centralised. This is to ensure that the
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is
Recover the mounting cup and where
gearbox input shaft splines will pass through
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
applicable the exhaust mounting bracket.
the splines in the centre of the friction disc.
5 Refit the exhaust downpipe.
17 Make a final check to ensure that all
3 Check that the clutch release arm and
6 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
the input shaft splines.
engine/transmission assembly. removal.
SOHC engines 2A•11
8 Refit the exhaust system. engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
9 Fill the engine with the correct grade and paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
quantity of oil. 3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a
10 Fill the cooling system. concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
11 Check and if necessary top-up the of trouble.
transmission fluid level. 4 As parts are removed, clean them in a
12 Check and if necessary adjust the tension paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts
of the alternator and where applicable the with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult
power steering pump drivebelt(s). to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
13 Adjust the throttle cable. hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
14 If applicable, adjust the kickdown cable. 5 It is advisable to have suitable containers
available to hold small items according to
their use, as this will help when reassembling
17 Engine mountings - renewal the engine and also prevent possible losses.
17.4 Withdrawing an engine mounting
6 Always obtain a complete set of new
gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but
1 The engine mountings incorporate retain the old gaskets with a view to using
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is
hydraulic dampers and must be renewed if them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
excessive engine movement is evident. new one is not available.
5 Refit the propeller shaft.
2 Working in the engine compartment, 7 Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts and
6 Refit the exhaust system.
unscrew the central nuts securing the engine washers to their locations after removing the
7 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
mounting brackets to the tops of the relevant components. This will help to protect
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
mountings. Recover the washers where the threads and will also prevent losses.
removal.
applicable. 8 Retain unserviceable components in order
8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
3 Remove the two bolts or the central nut and to compare them with the new parts supplied.
quantity of oil.
washer (as applicable) in each case securing 9 Suitable splined sockets will be required for
9 Fill the cooling system.
the mountings to the crossmember. removal of the oil pump bolts, the timing belt
10 Check and if necessary top-up the
4 Raise the engine using a hoist and lifting tensioner bolts on early models (up to mid-
gearbox oil level.
tackle attached to the engine lifting brackets on 1985), and the cylinder head bolts on early
11 Check and if necessary adjust the tension
the cylinder head, or a jack with an interposed models (up to early 1984) and a size T55 Torx
of the alternator and where applicable the
socket will be required to remove the cylinder
block of wood under the sump, until the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
head bolts on later models (from early 1984).
mountings can be withdrawn (see illustration).
12 Adjust the throttle cable.
2A
10 Before dismantling the main engine
5 Fit the new mountings, then lower the
components the following externally mounted
engine onto them.
16 Engine/automatic ancillary components can be removed, with
6 Fit the bolts or the nuts and washers (as
transmission assembly - reference to the relevant Chapters of this
applicable) securing the mountings to the
reconnection and refitting Manual and the relevant Sections of this
crossmember, and tighten them.
Chapter, where applicable:
7 Fit and tighten the central nuts, and washers
Inlet manifold (and carburettor, where
if applicable, securing the engine mounting
1 Reverse the removal procedure described
applicable
brackets to the tops of the mountings.
in Section 12, noting the following points.
Exhaust manifold
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is
Fuel pump and operating pushrod (where
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 18 Engine dismantling, applicable)
3 As the torque converter is only loosely
examination, renovation and Alternator
engaged in the transmission, care must be
reassembly - general information Distributor, HT leads and spark plug
taken to prevent the torque converter from
Coolant pump, thermostat and housing
falling out forwards. When the torque
Temperature gauge sender and oil pressure
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
Dismantling warning lamp switch
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
Oil filter
1 It is best to mount the engine on a
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
Dipstick
dismantling stand but if this is not available,
as shown. Incorrect installation of the torque
Engine mounting brackets (see illustration)
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
converter will result in damage to the
Crankcase ventilation valve and oil separator
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
transmission.
Clutch
have to be stripped down on the floor.
4 As the engine and transmission are
Alternator mounting bracket (see illustration)
2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the
reconnected, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate, noting that
on the C3 type transmission, the torque
converter fluid drain plug must line up with the
opening in the driveplate (see illustration 2.25
in Chapter 7B). When the engine is positioned
flush with the engine adapter plate and the
transmission housing, check that the torque
converter is free to move axially a small
amount before refitting and tightening the
engine-to-transmission bolts.
5 Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
6 Reconnect and adjust the selector rod. 18.10a Removing the right-hand engine 18.10b Removing the alternator mounting
7 Refit the propeller shaft. mounting bracket bracket
2A•12 SOHC engines
19.3 TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket 19.4 Loosening the timing belt tensioner 19.5 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) -
backplate aligned with indentation on spring bolt using a splined socket - models models from mid-1985
cylinder head up to mid-1985
5 On models from mid-1985 (without a
Examination and renovation 20 If the crankcase ventilation oil separator
tensioner spring), loosen the timing belt
was removed, apply a liquid sealing agent to
11 With the engine completely stripped,
tensioner bolts (see illustration) and move
its tube before pressing it into the cylinder
clean all the components and examine them
the tensioner away from the belt. If necessary
block.
for wear. Each part should be checked, and
to improve access, remove the thermostat
where necessary renewed or renovated as
housing.
19 Timing belt and sprockets -
described in the relevant Sections. Renew
6 Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of removal and refitting to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
course, unless it is known that they have had
sprocket.
little wear and are in perfect condition. Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before 7 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
12 If in doubt as to whether to renew a proceeding. On models from mid-1985 the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
component which is still just serviceable, (without a timing belt tensioner spring) the belt gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
consider the time and effort which will be tension should be checked using Ford special assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
incurred should it fail at an early date. tool No 21-113 after refitting. On models up to removing the starter motor and jamming the
Obviously the age and expected life of the mid-1985 (with a tensioner spring), a suitable ring gear teeth with a lever. Alternatively, if the
vehicle must influence the standards applied. splined socket will be required for the pulley has peripheral bolt holes, screw in a
13 Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be tensioner spring bolt. A suitable puller may be couple of bolts and use a lever between them
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and required to remove the sprockets. to jam it. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn
Torx type cylinder head bolts must be
very far, or piston/valve contact may occur.
Removal
renewed because of the high stresses to
8 Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
which they are subjected. 1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
14 Take the opportunity to renew the engine following operations: refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
core plugs while they are easily accessible. a) Disconnect the battery negative lead illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and b) Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan required on fuel-injection models.
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear c) Remove the coolant 9 Remove the guide washer from in front of
the new plugs with sealant and tap them pump/alternator/power-steering pump the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
squarely into position. drivebelt(s) timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
d) For improved access, remove the radiator
Reassembly get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
and disconnect the radiator top hose from 10 If desired, the sprocket can be removed as
15 To ensure maximum life with minimum the thermostat housing follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 21.
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must 2 Unscrew the three securing bolts and 11 Remove the crankshaft sprocket, refitting
everything be correctly assembled, but it must washers and withdraw the timing cover. Note the bolt part way and using a puller if
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be the position of the fourth bolt above the necessary (see illustration).
clear, and locking washers and spring crankshaft pulley which can be left in place. 12 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all 3 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley while holding the sprocket stationary with a
bearings and other working surfaces bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
thoroughly with clean engine oil during (top dead centre) mark on the crankshaft
assembly. pulley is aligned with the pointer on the
16 Before assembly begins, renew any bolts crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
or studs with damaged threads. illustration 16.2a of Chapter 5) and the pointer
17 Gather together a torque wrench, oil can, on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil with the indentation on the cylinder head (see
seals, together with a new oil filter. illustration).
18 If they have been removed, new Torx type 4 On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner
cylinder head bolts and new flywheel bolts will spring), loosen the timing belt tensioner spring
be required. bolt using the special splined socket (see
19 After reassembling the main engine illustration), then loosen the tensioner pivot
components, refit the ancillary components bolt. If necessary for improved access,
listed, referring to the appropriate Chapters remove the thermostat housing. Press the
where necessary. Delicate items such as the tensioner against the spring tension and
alternator and distributor may be left until after tighten the pivot bolt to retain the tensioner in 19.8 Using a puller to remove a pressed
the engine has been refitted if preferred. the released position. type crankshaft pulley
SOHC engines 2A•13
19.9 Removing the guide washer from the 19.11 Removing the crankshaft sprocket 19.13 Removing the auxiliary shaft
crankshaft sprocket
13 Remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket, as during removal, and tighten the bolt to the route to align the marks.
refitting the bolt part way and using a puller if specified torque. Where applicable, refit the 25 If the distributor is fitted, turn the auxiliary
necessary (see illustration). camshaft cover. shaft sprocket so that the rotor arm points to
14 Hold the camshaft sprocket stationary 19 Fit the auxiliary shaft sprocket with the the No 1 HT segment position in the
using a home-made tool similar to that shown ribs towards the engine. Fit the sprocket bolt distributor cap.
(in illustration 18.17 in Part C of this Chapter) and tighten it to the specified torque, 26 Fit the timing belt over the sprockets and
with two bolts engaged in the sprocket holes, counterholding the sprocket with a bar round the tensioner.
and unscrew the bolt and washer. through one of the holes. 27 On models up to mid-1985 (with a
Alternatively, remove the camshaft cover and 20 Fit the crankshaft sprocket, chamfered tensioner spring), slacken the pivot bolt, and
hold the camshaft using a spanner on the side inwards. allow the tensioner roller to rest against the
boss behind the No 6 valve cam. 21 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft belt. Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
15 Remove the camshaft sprocket, refitting sprocket, but do not engage it with the other bolt, turn the crankshaft through two
the bolt part way and using a puller if
sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt. complete revolutions in a clockwise direction,
necessary, then remove the backplate, noting
If the old belt is being refitted, observe the to bring No 1 cylinder back to TDC. Tighten
2A
which way round it is fitted (see illustrations).
previously noted running direction. the tensioner pivot bolt and then the spring
16 If desired, the camshaft oil seal can be
22 Refit the guide washer and the crankshaft bolt to the specified torque. Do not turn the
removed using self-tapping screws and a pair
pulley. Fit the bolt and washer and tighten just crankshaft anti-clockwise with the belt
of grips. A new seal can be fitted using a
enough to seat the pulley, being careful not to tensioner released. Proceed to paragraph 33.
suitable tube drift to press it into place.
turn the crankshaft. 28 On models from mid-1985 (without a
Lubricate the seal lips with clean engine oil
23 Make sure that the TDC pointer on the tensioner spring), move the tensioner to
before installation.
camshaft sprocket backplate is still aligned tension the belt roughly and nip up the
Refitting with the indentation on the cylinder head. tensioner bolts. Using a socket on the
24 Make sure that the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft
17 Refit the sprockets as follows.
crankshaft pulley is still aligned with the through two complete revolutions in a
18 Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate, as
pointer on the oil seal housing. If necessary, clockwise direction (to bring No 1 cylinder
noted during removal, then fit the sprocket.
Insert the bolt, hold the camshaft or sprocket turn the crankshaft by the shortest possible back to TDC), then turn the crankshaft 60º
19.15a Removing the camshaft sprocket . . . 19.15b . . . and backplate
2A•14 SOHC engines
19.28 Timing belt tension checking sequence - models from mid-1985
A No 1 cylinder at TDC B No 1 cylinder at 60° BTDC for C Return No 1 cylinder to TDC for
checking adjustment
anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC) bolts and move the tensioner to increase or
20 Cylinder head - removal and
decrease the belt tension. Tighten the
(see illustration).
tensioner bolts to the specified torque.
29 The belt tension should now be checked refitting (engine in vehicle)
by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21- 31 Turn the crankshaft 90º clockwise past
113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60º Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 and
readings are: BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC). the note at the beginning of Section 21 before
Used belt - 4 to 5 Check the belt tension again. proceeding.
New belt - 10 to 11 32 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
If the tension gauge is not available, a rough Removal
30 and 31 until the belt tension is correct.
guide is that the belt tension is correct when 33 Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
the belt can be twisted 90º in the middle of the
specified torque, preventing the crankshaft 2 Drain the cooling system.
longest run with the fingers, using moderate
from turning as described in paragraph 7 (see 3 Disconnect the coolant hose from the
pressure (see illustration). In this case, the
illustration). thermostat housing.
vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so
34 Refit the timing cover and tighten its bolts. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the temperature
that the belt tension can be checked using the
gauge sender.
35 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
special gauge at the earliest opportunity.
5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
operations described in paragraph 1.
30 If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
plugs and from the clips on the camshaft
36 When the engine is next started, check
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cover and remove the spark plugs.
the ignition timing is correct.
cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensioner
6 On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
7 The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds. If desired, the
inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to
one side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and
cables connected, but care must be taken not
to strain any of the wires, hoses, pipes or
cables.
8 Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold flange. Recover the gasket.
9 Disconnect the coolant hose from the clip
on the exhaust manifold hot air shroud, and if
19.29 Twisting the timing belt to assess its 19.33 Holding a pressed type crankshaft desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
tension pulley with two bolts and a lever while 10 If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
tightening the bolt the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant
SOHC engines 2A•15
valve clearances. This work is easier to carry
21 Cylinder head - removal and out on the bench rather than in the vehicle.
10 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
refitting (engine removed)
approximately 20 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent any damage to
Tap a stuck cylinder head open valves.
free with a wooden mallet. 11 Make sure that the mating faces of the
Do not insert a lever into the cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
head joint as this may clean, then locate the new gasket on the
damage the mating faces. block making sure that all the internal holes
are aligned (see illustration). Do not use
Note: Up to early 1984, splined type cylinder jointing compound.
head bolts were used, and from early 1984, 12 Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
21.11 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket size T55 Torx bolts were used. Torx type bolts on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
must always be renewed after slackening. The with the indentation on the front of the
two types of bolts are interchangeable, but
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise, cylinder head.
only in complete sets - the two types must not
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side, 13 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket.
be mixed on the same engine. A suitable
ensuring that it is adequately supported. The help of an assistant will ensure that the
special socket will be required for removal of
11 If not already done, unclip any wires and gasket is not dislodged.
the bolts, and a new cylinder head gasket
hoses from the camshaft cover, noting their 14 Lightly oil the cylinder head bolt threads
must be used when refitting.
locations for use when refitting, and on fuel and heads, then insert the bolts into their
injection models unbolt the bracing strut Removal locations in the cylinder head. Note that if the
securing the inlet manifold to the right-hand original bolts were of the Torx type, new bolts
1 With the manifolds removed, proceed as
side of the cylinder head. must be used when refitting.
follows.
12 If desired, remove the thermostat and 15 Using the relevant special socket, tighten
2 Remove the timing belt.
housing, and the temperature gauge sender.
the bolts in the correct sequence (see
3 Where applicable, disconnect the breather
13 Proceed as described in Section 21 for
illustration) to the stages given in the
hose from the camshaft cover.
cylinder head removal.
Specifications. Note that the bolt tightening
4 Unscrew the ten securing bolts and remove
Refitting stages are different for splined and Torx type
the camshaft cover and gasket. Take care not
bolts. If splined type bolts are used, they must
to lose the spacer plates which fit under the
2A
14 With the cylinder head refitted as
be finally tightened to the fourth stage after
bolt heads, where applicable.
described in Section 21, proceed as follows.
5 Using the relevant special socket, unscrew the engine has been run for 15 minutes (see
15 Where applicable, refit the temperature
the ten cylinder head bolts half a turn at a time Specifications).
gauge sender and the thermostat and
in the reverse order to that shown for 16 Check the condition of the camshaft
housing.
tightening. cover gasket and renew if necessary. Fit the
16 Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
6 With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder gasket to the camshaft cover, ensuring that
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable.
head from the block. If the cylinder head is
17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the the locating tabs and dovetails are correctly
stuck, tap it free with a wooden mallet. Place
manifold, using a new gasket. located, then refit the camshaft cover and
the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
18 Refit the coolant hose to the clip on the tighten the securing bolts in the order shown
prevent damage to the valves.
exhaust manifold hot air shroud. (see Chapter 1, Section 23), ensuring that the
7 Recover the gasket.
19 Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the spacer plates are in position under the bolt
HT leads. heads, where applicable.
Refitting
20 Reconnect the temperature gauge sender 17 Where applicable, reconnect the breather
8 Commence refitting as follows.
wiring. hose to the camshaft cover.
9 With the cylinder head supported on blocks
21 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the 18 Refit the timing belt.
of wood, check and if necessary adjust the
thermostat housing.
22 Fill the cooling system.
23 If not already done, refit any hoses and
wires to the camshaft cover, as noted during
removal, and on fuel injection models refit the
inlet manifold bracing strut. If splined type
cylinder head bolts have been used, leave
these operations until the bolts have been
finally tightened after running the engine.
24 Refit the air cleaner on carburettor
models.
25 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
26 If splined type cylinder head bolts have
been used, start the engine and run it at 1000
rpm for 15 minutes, then stop the engine,
remove the air cleaner and the camshaft cover
as described previously, and finally tighten the
cylinder head bolts to the fourth stage (see
Specifications). Refit the camshaft cover on
completion, then refit any hoses and wires,
and on fuel injection models the inlet manifold
21.15 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
bracing strut. Refit the air cleaner.
2A•16 SOHC engines
22.2a Compressing a valve spring 22.2b Removing a valve spring and cap 22.2c Removing a valve
masking tape. Press a little grease between
settle the components. If the original
22 Cylinder head - dismantling the two pistons and their bores to collect any
components are being refitted, ensure that
carbon dust; this can be wiped away when
they are refitted in their original locations.
and reassembly
the piston is lowered. To prevent carbon
10 Refit the camshaft.
build-up, polish the piston crown with metal
Note: A valve spring compressor will be
polish, but remove all traces of the polish
23 Cylinder head - inspection
required during this procedure. New valve
afterwards.
stem oil seals should be used on reassembly. and renovation 5 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting
Dismantling and burning, especially the exhaust valve
Note: On engines fitted with hardened valve heads. Renew any valve which is badly burnt.
1 With the cylinder head removed, remove
seats for use with unleaded petrol, valve and Examine the valve seats at the same time. If
the camshaft.
valve seat grinding and recutting cannot be the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by
2 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
carried out without the use of specialist grinding the valve heads and seats together
one of the valve springs until the split collets
equipment. Consult a Ford dealer for further
with coarse, then fine, grinding paste.
can be removed from the groove in the valve
advice.
6 Where excessive pitting has occurred, the
stem. Release the compressor and remove
1 This operation will normally only be
valve seats must be recut or renewed by a
the cap and spring, identifying them for
required at comparatively high mileages.
suitably equipped engineering works.
location. If the cap is difficult to release, do
However, if persistent pre-ignition (“pinking”)
7 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
not continue to tighten the compressor, but
occurs and performance has deteriorated
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer.
even though the engine adjustments are
Always make sure that the compressor is bench on blocks of wood.
correct, de-carbonizing and valve grinding
firmly located on the valve head and the cap. 8 Smear a trace of coarse carborundum
may be required.
Withdraw the valve (see illustrations). paste on the valve seat face and press a
2 With the cylinder head removed, use a
3 Repeat the procedure given in paragraph 2 suction grinding tool onto the valve head.
scraper to remove the carbon from the
for the remaining valves, keeping all With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve
combustion chambers and ports. Remove all
components identified for location so that head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally
traces of gasket from the cylinder head
they can be refitted in their original positions. to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull
surface, then wash it thoroughly with paraffin.
4 Prise the valve stem oil seals from the tops matt even surface is produced on the mating
3 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
of the valve guides (see illustration). surface of both the valve seat and the valve,
check that the cylinder head surface is not
5 Unscrew the cam follower ball-pins from wipe off the paste and repeat the process with
distorted. If it is, it must be resurfaced by a
the cylinder head, keeping them identified for fine carborundum paste as before. A light
suitably equipped engineering works.
location. spring placed under the valve head will greatly
4 If the engine is still in the vehicle, clean the
ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken
Reassembly piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges,
ring of light grey matt finish is produced on
but make sure that no carbon drops between
6 Commence reassembly by refitting the cam the mating surface of both the valve and seat,
the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two
follower ball-pins to their original locations,
the grinding operation is complete.
of the pistons at the top of their bores and
where applicable.
9 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head
seal off the remaining bores with paper and
7 Lubricate the valve stems and guides with
and stem, and clean away all traces of
SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, then insert the valves
grinding compound. Clean the valves and
into their original guides.
seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then wipe
8 Wrap a thin layer of adhesive tape over the
with a clean rag.
collet groove of each valve, then smear the
10 If the guides are worn they will need
new oil seals with a little SAE 80/90 hypoid oil
reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide
and slide them down the valve stems onto the
inserts. The valve seats will also need
guides. If necessary use a suitable metal tube
recutting to ensure that they are concentric
to press the oil seals into the guides. Remove
with the stems. This work should be entrusted
the adhesive tape.
to a Ford dealer or local engineering works.
9 Working on each valve in turn, fit the valve
11 Check that the free length of the valve
spring and cap, then compress the spring
springs is as specified, and renew if
using the valve spring compressor and fit the
necessary. Do not renew individual springs; if
split collets to the groove in the valve stem.
any springs are excessively worn, renew all
Release the compressor and tap the end of
22.4 Removing a valve stem oil seal the springs as a set.
the valve stem with a soft-faced mallet to
SOHC engines 2A•17
24.4 Withdrawing the camshaft oil supply 24.5 Note how the cam follower retaining 24.6 Removing a cam follower
tube springs are fitted
a suitable tube drift or socket (see
withdraw the camshaft oil supply tube (see
24 Camshaft and cam followers illustration). Smear the seal lip with clean
illustration).
engine oil.
5 Note how the cam follower retaining
- removal, inspection and
14 Lubricate the camshaft, bearings and
springs are fitted, then unhook them from the
refitting
thrustplate with SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, then
cam followers (see illustration).
carefully insert the camshaft from the rear of
6 Loosen the locknuts and back off the ball-
Note: A new camshaft oil seal should be used
the cylinder head, taking care not to damage
pin adjuster nuts until the cam followers can
when refitting the camshaft.
the bearings.
be removed (see illustration). Note their
Removal 15 Locate the thrustplate in the camshaft
locations for use when refitting. It will be
groove, then insert and tighten the bolts.
necessary to rotate the camshaft during this
1 Remove the cylinder head.
16 Using a dial test indicator if available, or
operation.
2 Hold the camshaft stationary using a
feeler blades, check that the camshaft
7 Unscrew the two bolts and remove the
suitable spanner on the cast boss behind the
endfloat is within the limits given in the
camshaft thrustplate from the rear bearing
No 6 valve cam, and unscrew the camshaft
Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate
housing (see illustration).
sprocket bolt and washer.
2A
8 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the and re-check. If this does not bring the
3 Remove the camshaft sprocket, using a
rear of the cylinder head taking care not to endfloat within limits, the camshaft must be
suitable puller if necessary, and withdraw the
damage the bearings (see illustration). renewed.
sprocket backplate, noting which way round it
9 Prise the oil seal from the front bearing in 17 Lubricate the ball-pins with SAE 80/90
is fitted.
the cylinder head (see illustration). hypoid oil, then refit the cam followers to their
4 Remove the three securing bolts and
original locations, and refit the retaining
Inspection springs as noted during removal. It will be
10 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft necessary to rotate the camshaft during this
journals and lobes, and the cam followers for operation.
wear. If wear is excessive, considerable noise 18 Fit the oil supply tube and tighten the
would have been noticed from the top of the bolts.
engine when running, and a new camshaft 19 Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate, as
and followers must be fitted. noted during removal.
11 Check the camshaft bearings for wear, 20 Fit the camshaft sprocket, then insert and
and if necessary have them renewed by a tighten the bolt (with washer in place) to the
Ford dealer. specified torque, holding the camshaft
12 Check the camshaft oil supply tube for stationary as described in paragraph 2.
obstructions, making sure the jet holes are clear. 21 With the cylinder head supported on
blocks of wood, adjust the valve clearances.
Refitting This work is easier to carry out on the bench
13 Commence refitting by driving a new oil
24.7 Unscrew the securing bolts and rather than in the vehicle.
seal into the cylinder head front bearing, using
remove the camshaft thrustplate 22 Refit the cylinder head.
24.8 Withdrawing the camshaft 24.9 Prising out the camshaft oil seal 24.13 Fitting a new camshaft oil seal using
a socket
2A•18 SOHC engines
25.4 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft cover 25.5a Unscrew the auxiliary shaft 25.5b Withdraw the auxiliary shaft
securing bolts and remove the cover thrustplate securing screws and remove
the thrustplate
Refitting 2 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
25 Auxiliary shaft - removal,
by jamming the ring gear teeth or by bolting a
inspection and refitting 10 Commence refitting by lubricating the
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
auxiliary shaft journals with clean engine oil,
cylinder block.
Note: A new gasket should be used when then insert the shaft into the cylinder block.
3 Make alignment marks on the
refitting the auxiliary shaft cover (see text). 11 Locate the thrustplate in the shaft groove,
flywheel/driveplate and the end of the
then insert the crosshead screws and tighten
Removal crankshaft, so that the flywheel/driveplate can
them with an impact screwdriver.
be refitted in its original position.
1 Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary 12 Using a dial test indicator (if available), or
4 Unscrew the securing bolts and withdraw
shaft sprocket. feeler blades, check that the auxiliary shaft
the flywheel/driveplate. Do not drop it, it is
2 Remove the distributor. endfloat is within the limits given in the
very heavy. Note that on models with A4LD
Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate
3 Remove the mechanical fuel pump and
type automatic transmission, the driveplate
and re-check. If this does not bring the
operating pushrod (where applicable).
may be secured with one or two reinforcing
endfloat within limits, the auxiliary shaft must
4 Unscrew the three securing bolts and
plates depending on model.
be renewed.
remove the auxiliary shaft cover (see
5 The engine adapter plate may now be
13 Cut out the relevant section of a new
illustration). withdrawn from the dowels if required (see
gasket, and locate it on the cylinder block,
5 Unscrew the cross-head screws, using an illustration).
then refit the auxiliary shaft cover and tighten
impact screwdriver if necessary, remove the
Inspection
the securing bolts.
thrustplate and withdraw the auxiliary shaft
14 Where applicable, refit the fuel pump.
from the cylinder block (see illustrations). 6 With the flywheel/driveplate removed, the
15 Refit the distributor.
6 Cut the cover gasket along the top of the ring gear can be examined for wear and
16 Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and the
crankshaft front oil seal housing and scrape damage.
timing belt.
off the gasket. 7 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth it should be renewed. The old ring can
Inspection 26 Flywheel/driveplate - removal, be removed from the flywheel/driveplate by
7 Examine the shaft for wear and damage, cutting a notch between two teeth with a
inspection and refitting
and renew it if necessary. hacksaw and then splitting it with a cold
8 If desired, the oil seal in the cover can be chisel. Wear eye protection when doing this.
Note: The manufacturers recommend that the
renewed as follows. 8 Fitting of a new ring gear requires heating
flywheel/driveplate securing bolts are renewed
the ring to 400ºF (204ºC). This can be done by
9 Support the cover on blocks of wood and after slackening. Suitable thread-locking agent
polishing four equally spaced sections of the
drive out the old oil seal. Drive the new seal will be required to coat the bolt threads.
gear, laying it on a heat resistant surface (such
into place using a suitable metal tube or
Removal as fire bricks) and heating it evenly with a blow
socket (see illustrations). The sealing lip
lamp or torch until the polished areas turn a
must face towards the cylinder block. Smear 1 If the engine is in the vehicle, remove the
light yellow tinge. Do not overheat, or the hard
clutch or the automatic transmission, as
the sealing lip with clean engine oil before
wearing properties will be lost. The gear has a
applicable.
installation.
25.9a Driving out the auxiliary shaft cover 25.9b Using a socket to fit a new auxiliary 26.5 Withdrawing the engine adaptor plate
oil seal shaft cover oil seal
SOHC engines 2A•19
the outer face and using self-tapping screws
and a pair of grips.
3 If the oil seal cannot be removed as
described in paragraph 2, remove the sump
and the auxiliary shaft sprocket, then unbolt
the oil seal housing and the auxiliary shaft
front cover. Recover the gasket. The oil seal
can then be driven out from the inside of the
housing (see illustrations).
4 Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube or
socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into
the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean
26.10 Flywheel located on crankshaft 26.12 Use a strap to prevent the flywheel engine oil (see illustration).
turning as its securing bolts are tightened 5 Where applicable, refit the oil seal housing
and the auxiliary shaft front cover, using a
chamfered inner edge which should fit against 12 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from
new gasket, and tighten the bolts. Using a
the shoulder on the flywheel. When hot turning as described in paragraph 2, then
straight edge, ensure that the bottom face of
enough, place the gear in position quickly, tighten the securing bolts to the specified
the oil seal housing is aligned with the bottom
tapping it home if necessary, and let it cool torque in a diagonal sequence (see
face of the cylinder block before finally
naturally without quenching in any way. illustration).
tightening the bolts (see illustrations). Refit
13 If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the
Refitting the auxiliary shaft sprocket and refit the sump.
clutch or the automatic transmission, as
9 Commence refitting of the 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing
applicable.
flywheel/driveplate by refitting the engine belt.
adapter plate to the dowels on the rear of the
27 Crankshaft front oil seal -
cylinder block, where applicable.
28 Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
10 Ensure that the mating faces are clean,
renewal
then locate the flywheel/driveplate on the rear
Note: A new gasket will be required for
of the crankshaft, aligning the previously
1 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
refitting if the old seal housing is removed
made marks (see illustration).
engine adapter plate.
during this procedure.
11 Coat the threads of the securing bolts
2A
2 Extract the oil seal using an oil seal removal
1 Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft
with a liquid thread-locking agent, then insert
tool if available. It may also be possible to
sprocket.
the bolts. Note that the manufacturers rec-
remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face
2 If an oil seal removal tool is available, the oil
ommend the use of new bolts. Where
and using self-tapping screws and a pair of
seal can be removed at this stage. It may also
applicable refit the reinforcing plate(s) on
grips (see illustration).
models with A4LD type automatics be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling
27.3a Removing the crankshaft front oil 27.3b Driving the crankshaft front oil seal 27.4 Using a socket to fit a new crankshaft
seal housing from the housing front oil seal
27.5a Crankshaft front oil seal 27.5b Checking the alignment of the 28.2 Crankshaft rear oil seal location
housing/auxiliary shaft cover gasket crankshaft front oil seal housing (arrowed)
located on front of cylinder block
2A•20 SOHC engines
29.9a Make up wooden blocks to fit the 29.9b . . . which will support the engine 29.10 Unscrew the front crossmember
front suspension turrets and support a securing bolts
metal bar . . .
as a lever before resting it on the wooden
3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
3 Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a blocks.
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
new seal using a suitable metal tube or 10 Support the front crossmember with a
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into trolley jack, then unscrew the bolts securing
4 Drain the engine oil into a container.
the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean the crossmember to the underbody (see
5 Remove the starter motor, if necessary.
engine oil. illustration).
6 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
4 Refit the engine adapter plate and the 11 Lower the crossmember just enough to
securing the engine mountings to the
flywheel/driveplate. give sufficient clearance to remove the sump
crossmember.
(see illustrations).
7 Working in the engine compartment,
12 Unscrew the twenty-three securing bolts
unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate
29 Sump - removal and refitting and withdraw the sump (see illustration). If
shaft to the steering column, swivel the clamp
the sump is stuck, carefully tap it sideways to
plate to one side, and disconnect the
free it. Do not prise between the mating faces.
intermediate shaft.
Note: New gaskets and sealing strips will be Note that if the engine has been removed, it is
8 Where applicable, detach the brake lines
required for refitting, and sealing compound preferable to keep the engine upright until the
from the crossmember.
will be required to coat the gasket faces. sump has been removed to prevent sludge
9 Support the engine using a hoist, or a bar
from entering the engine internals.
and blocks of wood resting on the suspension
Removal
13 Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.
turrets (see illustrations). Attach the lifting
1 If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
14 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
tackle to the engine lifting brackets on the
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 12.
cylinder block and sump.
cylinder head. If using a support bar, the
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
engine may be lifted slightly by using the bar
Refitting
15 Commence refitting by applying sealing
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to
the corners of the front and rear rubber
sealing strip locations in the cylinder block,
then press the sealing strips into the grooves
in the rear main bearing cap and the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustrations).
16 Apply a little sealing compound to the
mating face of the cylinder block, then place
the sump gaskets in position, ensuring that
the end tabs locate correctly beneath the
rubber sealing strips (see illustration).
29.11a Lower the suspension . . . 29.11b . . . to give sufficient clearance for 17 Locate the sump on the gaskets and
sump removal loosely fit the securing bolts.
29.12 Unscrew the securing bolts and 29.15a Apply sealing compound . . . 29.15b . . . then fit the rubber sealing strips
withdraw the sump
SOHC engines 2A•21
29.16 Locate the sump gasket end tabs 29.18 Sump bolt tightening sequence - 30.2 Unscrewing the oil pick-up tube
beneath the rubber sealing strips refer to text securing bolt
tighten to the specified torque.
25 Refit the starter motor.
26 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
27 Ensure that the sump drain plug is fitted,
then fill the engine with the correct quantity
and grade of oil. If necessary, renew the oil
filter before filling the engine with oil.
28 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
29 Start the engine and check for leaks
around the sump, and where applicable the oil
filter. When the engine is started, there may
be a delay in the extinguishing of the oil
pressure warning lamp while the system
pressurises.
30.3 Unscrewing an oil pump securing bolt 30.4 Withdrawing the oil pump driveshaft
30 Run the engine for twenty minutes then
2A
stop the engine and tighten the sump bolts to
it is fitted (see illustration). The driveshaft
18 Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence the third stage given in the Specifications,
engages with the lower end of the distributor
(see illustration) noting the two stages given starting at the point “A” shown and working
driveshaft.
in the Specifications. Tighten to the first stage clockwise.
in a clockwise sequence starting at point “A”, 5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil
31 Check the oil level.
then tighten to the second stage in a pump and cylinder block.
32 Dispose of any old engine oil safely. Do
clockwise sequence starting at point “B”. not pour it down a drain - this is illegal and
Refitting
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has causes pollution.
6 Commence refitting by inserting the oil
been running for twenty minutes.
pump driveshaft into the cylinder block in its
19 If the engine is in the vehicle proceed as
30 Oil pump - removal and previously noted position.
follows.
refitting 7 Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
20 Carefully lift the crossmember with the
turning it by hand.
jack, then refit the securing bolts and tighten
8 Fit the pump, insert the securing bolts, and
to the specified torque.
Removal tighten them to the specified torque.
21 Withdraw the jack, then lower the engine
1 Remove the sump. 9 Fit the pick-up tube securing bolt and
and remove the lifting tackle.
2 Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube tighten it.
22 Where applicable, refit the brake lines to
and strainer to the cylinder block (see 10 Refit the sump.
the crossmember.
illustration).
23 Ensure that the front wheels are pointing
3 Using a suitable splined socket, unscrew
straight ahead and that the steering wheel is 31 Oil pump - dismantling,
the two securing bolts and withdraw the oil
centred, then reconnect the intermediate shaft
inspection and reassembly
pump and strainer (see illustration).
to the steering column. Secure the clamp
4 If desired, the hexagon-shaped driveshaft
plate with the bolt.
Note: A new pressure relief valve plug and
can be withdrawn, but note which way round
24 Refit the engine mounting bolts and
pick-up tube gasket will be required for
reassembly.
Dismantling
31.3 Exploded view of the oil pump
1 If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
A Body
of a new pump. Examine the pump as
B Outer rotor
described in this Section and then decide
C Inner rotor
whether renewal or repair is the best course of
D Cover
action.
E Strainer
2 Unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer.
F Pick-up tube
Recover the gasket.
G Gasket
3 Unscrew the three securing bolts and
H Pressure relief valve
remove the oil pump cover (see illustration).
2A•22 SOHC engines
31.10a Checking the oil pump outer rotor- 31.10b Checking the oil pump inner-to- 31.11 Checking the oil pump rotor endfloat
to-body clearance outer rotor clearance
4 Mark the rotor faces so that the rotors can 16 Prime the pump before refitting. 10 Fit a piston ring compressor to No 1
piston, then insert the piston and connecting
be refitted in their original positions, then lift
rod into No 1 cylinder (see illustration). With
the rotors from the pump body.
32 Pistons and connecting rods No 1 crankpin at its lowest point, drive the
5 Remove the pressure relief valve plug by
- removal and refitting piston carefully into the cylinder with the
piercing it with a punch and levering it out,
wooden handle of a hammer, and at the same
then withdraw the spring and plunger.
time guide the connecting rod onto the
6 Thoroughly clean all parts in petrol or
Removal crankpin. Make sure that the arrow on the
paraffin and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head. piston crown is facing the front of the engine.
Reassembly and inspection 2 Check the big-end bearing caps for 11 Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end
identification marks and if necessary use a bearing cap in its previously noted position,
7 Commence reassembly by lubricating the
centre-punch to identify the caps and and tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and spring.
corresponding connecting rods (see 12 Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
8 Fit a new relief valve plug, flat side
illustration). 13 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
outwards and seat it with a drift until it is flush
11 to 13 inclusive on the remaining pistons.
3 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
with the pick-up mating face.
14 Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts and
9 Lubricate the rotors and fit them. Note the
tap off the bearing cap. Keep the bearing
marks made when dismantling, if applicable.
shells in the cap and connecting rod.
10 The necessary clearances may now be
33 Pistons and connecting rods
4 Using the handle of a hammer, push the
checked using a machined straight edge (a
- examination and renovation
piston and connecting rod up the bore and
good steel rule) and a set of feeler blades. The
critical clearances are between the lobes of withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
1 Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring,
the centre rotor and convex faces of the outer Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod.
and scratches. Check the connecting rods for
rotor; between the outer and pump body; and 5 Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and
wear and damage. The connecting rods carry
between both rotors and the end cover plate 4 on No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
a letter indicating their weight class; all the
(endfloat). The desired clearances are given in turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
rods fitted must be of the same class.
the Specifications (see illustrations). repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
2 The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in
11 Endfloat can be measured by placing a and connecting rods.
the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to
straight edge across the pump body and
Refitting be fitted to the existing connecting rods, the
measuring the clearance between the two
work should be carried out by a Ford dealer
rotors and the straight edge using feeler 6 Commence refitting as follows.
who will have the necessary tooling. Note that
blades (see illustration). 7 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
12 New rotors are only available as a pair. If the oil splash hole in the connecting rod must
the recesses in the connecting rods and big-
the rotor-to-body clearance is excessive, a be located on the right-hand side of the piston
end caps.
complete new pump should be fitted. (the arrow on the piston crown faces forwards).
8 Press the bearing shells into the connecting
13 Refit the pump cover and tighten the 3 If new rings are to be fitted to the existing
rods and caps in their correct positions and oil
securing bolts. them liberally. Note that the lugs in pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
14 Fit the pick-up tube and strainer, using a corresponding shells must be adjacent to the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
new gasket. each other (see illustration). blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
15 Temporarily insert the driveshaft into the 9 Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil
pump and make sure that the rotors turn freely. engine oil. control ring is in three sections.
32.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod 32.8 The bearing shell lugs (arrowed) must 32.10 Fitting a piston ring compressor
identification numbers be adjacent to each other
SOHC engines 2A•23
4 Remove the oil pump and pick-up tube. 16 Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
5 Check the main bearing caps for bearing cap.
identification marks and if necessary use a 17 Apply a little grease to each side of the
centre-punch to identify them (see centre main bearing so as to retain the
illustration). thrustwashers.
6 Before removing the crankshaft, check that 18 Fit the upper halves of the thrustwashers
the endfloat is within the specified limits by into their grooves either side of the main
inserting a feeler blade between the centre bearing. The slots must face outwards.
crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see 19 Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
illustration). This will indicate whether or not upper and lower main bearing shells with
new thrustwashers are required. clean engine oil and locate the rear oil seal
7 Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main (with lip lubricated) on the rear of the
bearing caps complete with bearing shells. If crankshaft.
33.4 Checking a piston ring gap at the top the thrustwashers are to be re-used identify 20 Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
of the cylinder bore them for location. Recover the sealing wedges crankcase.
from either side of the rear bearing cap. 21 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
4 Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
8 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and journals again, and then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
insert them into the cylinder bore and use a
remove the rear oil seal. Recover the the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.
feeler blade to check that the end gaps are
remaining thrustwashers (see illustration). 22 Make sure that the mating faces are
within the specified limits (see illustration).
9 Extract the bearing shells, keeping them clean, then apply sealant (Loctite 518 or
5 Clean out the piston ring groove using a
identified for location (see illustration). equivalent) to the areas on the rear main
piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Be
bearing cap shown (see illustration).
careful not to scratch the aluminium surface Refitting 23 Fit the rear main bearing cap. Fit the two
of the pistons. Protect your fingers - piston
10 Commence refitting as follows. securing bolts but as before do not tighten yet.
ring edges are sharp.
11 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the 24 Apply a little grease to either side of the
6 Fit the oil control ring sections with the
crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag. centre main bearing cap so as to retain the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of the
12 Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft, thrustwashers. Fit the thrustwashers with the
piston. The side ring gaps should be 25 mm (1.0
non-fluffy rag. tag located in the groove and the slots facing
in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
13 If the old main bearing shells are to be outwards (see illustration).
tapered lower compression ring with the “TOP”
renewed (not to do so is a false economy, 25 Fit the centre main bearing cap and the
mark towards the top of the piston and the gap
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper two securing bolts, then refit the intermediate
150º from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their main bearing caps. Make sure that the arrows
compression ring with the gap 150º on the
2A
location in the crankcase. point towards the front of the engine.
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
14 Identify each main bearing cap and place 26 Lightly tighten all main bearing cap
compression rings are coated with a
in order. The number is cast on to the cap and securing bolts and then fully tighten in a
molybdenum skin which must not be damaged.
on intermediate caps an arrow is marked progressive manner to the specified torque
Note also that the compression rings are made
which points towards the front of the engine. wrench setting.
of cast iron, and will snap if expanded too far.
15 Wipe each cap bearing shell location with 27 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
a soft non-fluffy rag. Some stiffness is to be expected with new
34 Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting
Removal
1 With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing belt, crankshaft sprocket,
auxiliary shaft sprocket and the
flywheel/driveplate.
2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3 Unbolt the crankshaft front oil seal housing
34.5 Main bearing cap identification marks. 34.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat
and the auxiliary shaft front cover and remove
The arrow points to the front of the engine
the gasket.
34.8 Removing a thrustwasher from the 34.9 Extract each main bearing shell 34.22 Coat the arrowed areas of the rear
centre main bearing main bearing cap with sealant
2A•24 SOHC engines
34.24 Fitting a thrustwasher to the centre 34.29 Fitting a sealing wedge to the rear 35.5 Checking the width of the filament
main bearing cap main bearing cap against the scale of the packet
the new rings to bed in.
4 If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
components, but there must be no tight spots
5 If there is a ridge at the top of the bore and
maximum specified amount, new
or binding.
28 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is new piston rings are being fitted, either the
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler top piston ring must be stepped (“ridge
main bearings. These are usually supplied
blade between the centre crankshaft web and dodger” pattern) or the ridge must be
together with the main and big-end bearings
the thrustwashers. on a reground crankshaft. removed with a ridge reamer. If the ridge is
29 Make sure that the rear oil seal is fully 5 An accurate method of determining bearing left, the piston ring may hit it and break.
located onto its seating. Coat the rear main wear is by the use of Plastigage. The 6 Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
bearing cap sealing wedges with sealing crankshaft is located in the main bearings cylinder block for cracks and damage and use
compound, then press them into position (and big-end bearings if necessary) and the a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
using a blunt screwdriver with the rounded Plastigage filament located across the journal waterways to ensure that they are
red face towards the cap (see illustration). which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and unobstructed.
30 Refit the oil pump and pick-up tube. the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
31 Refit the crankshaft front oil seal housing torque. On removal of the cap the width of the 37 Initial start-up after overhaul or
and the auxiliary shaft front cover using a new filaments is checked against a scale which
major repair
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts. Smear
shows the bearing running clearance. This
the lip of the oil seal with clean engine oil
clearance is then compared with that given in
before fitting; and using a straight edge, ensure 1 Make a final check to ensure that
the Specifications (see illustration).
that the bottom face of the oil seal housing is everything has been reconnected to the
6 If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder engine and that no rags or tools have been left
crankshaft requires renewal, extract it with a
block before finally tightening the bolts. in the engine bay.
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy
32 Refit the pistons and connecting rods. 2 Check that oil and coolant levels are
grease and use a close fitting metal dowel
33 Refit the flywheel/driveplate and the correct.
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
auxiliary shaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket, 3 Start the engine. This may take a little
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
and timing belt. longer than usual as fuel is pumped up to the
metal drift.
engine.
35 Crankshaft and bearings - 4 Check that the oil pressure light goes out
36 Cylinder block and bores - when the engine starts.
examination and renovation
examination and renovation 5 Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel or coolant. Also check
1 Examine the bearing surfaces of the
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
1 The cylinder bores must be examined for
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
unions, where applicable. Some smoke and
taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by
a micrometer, check each journal and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
examining the top of the bores; if these are
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
other components.
the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is
crankshaft will have to be reground and
6 Bring the engine to normal operating
excessive, the engine will have had a high oil
undersize bearings fitted.
temperature, then check the ignition timing
consumption rate accompanied by blue
2 Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
and the idle speed (where applicable) and
smoke from the exhaust.
by a suitable engineering works, who will
mixture.
2 If available, use an inside dial gauge to
normally supply the matching undersize main
7 If splined type cylinder head bolts have
measure the bore diameter just below the
and big-end shell bearings.
been used, stop the engine after it has been
ridge and compare it with the diameter at the
3 Note that undersize bearings may already
running for 15 minutes, then remove the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
have been fitted, either in production or by a
crankshaft cover and tighten the cylinder
wear. If the difference is more than 0.152 mm
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
head bolts to the fourth stage given in the
(0.006 in), the cylinders will normally require
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
Specifications, in the correct order.
reboring with new oversize pistons fitted.
take them along when buying new ones.
8 When the engine has completely cooled,
3 Proprietary oil control rings can be obtained
Production undersizes are also indicated by
re-check the oil and coolant levels, and
for fitting to the existing pistons if it is felt that
paint marks as follows:
check, and if necessary adjust, the valve
the degree of wear does not justify a rebore.
White line on main bearing cap - parent bore
clearances.
However, any improvement brought about by
0.40 mm oversize
9 If new bearings, pistons etc have been
such rings may be short-lived.
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced
4 If new pistons or piston rings are to be fitted
- main bearing journals 0.25 mm
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
to old bores, deglaze the bores with abrasive
undersize
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
paper or a “glaze buster” tool. The object is to
Green spot on counterweight - big-end
oil and filter after this mileage.
produce a light cross-hatch pattern to assist
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize
DOHC engine 2B•3
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 104 66 to 77
Connecting rod (big-end bearing cap) bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 17 11 to 13
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 85º
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 58 33 to 43
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 80º
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 63 41 to 46
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 to 92 61 to 68
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Oil pump sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 19 12 to 14
Oil pump chain tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 10
Sump bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7
Sump studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Sump front mounting plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 28 17 to 21
Oil baffle nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15
Oil pick-up pipe-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10
Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 22 13 to 16
Cylinder head bolts:
M11 bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 to 39 27 to 29
Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6
Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 26 16 to 19
2B
Lower timing chain guide upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 10
Lower timing chain guide lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 28 18 to 21
Upper and lower timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
Engine-to-gearbox/transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
3 Major operations possible with
which draws oil through a strainer located
1 General information
the engine in the vehicle
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries, from
The following operations can be carried out
The 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead where it is distributed to the crankshaft and
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
Camshaft) engine was introduced in August
camshafts. The big-end bearings are supplied a) Removal of the camshafts.
1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine
with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft. b) Removal and servicing of the cylinder head
used previously in the Sierra range. The
The undersides of the pistons are supplied c) Removal of the timing chain and
engine is of four-cylinder, in-line type.
sprockets.
with oil from drillings in the connecting rods.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
d) Removal of the oil pump.
The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
e) Removal of the sump.
oil from passages in the cylinder head. The
centre main bearing in order to control
f) Removal of the pistons and connecting
camshafts are lubricated by oil from spray
crankshaft endfloat. rods.
The camshafts are driven by a chain from tubes mounted above the camshaft bearing g) Removal of the big-end bearings.
the crankshaft, and operate the angled valves caps. h) Removal of the engine mountings
via hydraulic cam followers. One camshaft i) Removal of the clutch and flywheel.
A closed crankcase ventilation system is
operates the inlet valves, and the other j) Removal of the crankshaft front and rear
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
operates the exhaust valves. The operation of oil seals.
drawn from the crankcase, through a breather
the cam followers is explained in Chapter 2,
pipe into the inlet manifold, where they are
Part C, but note that no rollers are fitted and 4 Major operations requiring
burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture.
the base of each cam follower is in direct engine removal
contact with the cam profile.
2 Crankcase ventilation system -
The distributor is driven directly from the The following operation can only be carried out
inspection and maintenance
front of the inlet camshaft, and the oil pump is after removing the engine from the vehicle:
driven by a chain from the crankshaft. An a) Removal of the crankshaft and main
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank. Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35. bearings.
2B•4 DOHC engine
5.5 Removing the hose support bracket 5.22 Earth strap position on top engine-to- 5.29 Removing the lower steering column
bolt from the cylinder head gearbox (arrowed) clamp bolt
14 On fuel injection models, disconnect the engine compartment. Note the location of the
5 Engine - removal leaving vacuum pipes from the MAP sensor (located bolts, and note the positions of the earth strap
at the rear right-hand side of the engine and any wiring clips attached to the bolts (see
manual gearbox in vehicle
compartment) and, where applicable, from the illustration).
air conditioning system. 23 Unscrew the securing bolt, and
Warning: Vehicles equipped 15 On carburettor models, disconnect the disconnect the earth lead from the rear left-
with air conditioning: fuel supply and return hoses at the hand side of the cylinder head.
Components of the air carburettor, and plug the ends of the hoses to 24 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
conditioning system may minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
obstruct work being undertaken precautions. 25 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
on the engine and it is not always possible 16 On fuel injection models, slowly loosen the vehicle and support it securely on axle
to unbolt and move them aside
the fuel feed union at the fuel rail, to relieve stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
sufficiently, within the limits of their
the pressure in the fuel system before 26 Drain the engine oil into a suitable
flexible connecting pipes. In such a case,
disconnecting the union. Be prepared for container.
the system should be discharged by a
petrol spillage, and take adequate fire 27 Remove the starter motor.
Ford dealer or air conditioning specialist.
precautions. Disconnect the fuel feed hose, 28 Remove the exhaust downpipe.
The refrigerant is harmless under normal
and disconnect the fuel return hose from the 29 Ensure that the steering wheel is
conditions but in the presence of a naked
fuel pressure regulator. Plug the ends of the positioned in the straight-ahead position, then
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a
hoses to minimise petrol spillage. remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
17 Disconnect the throttle cable and move it column clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
to one side. disconnect the lower steering column from the
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them
18 Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition lower flexible coupling (see illustration).
with a diluted solution of boric acid and
coil, and unclip it from the timing chain cover. 30 Working inside the vehicle, place a wooden
seek medical advice immediately.
19 Disconnect the wiring from the following block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be components as applicable, depending on against its stop, so holding the automatic
required. model: adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant.
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Alternator. 31 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
2 Remove the bonnet. Starter motor. clutch release arm, and pass the cable
3 On carburettor models, remove the air Oil pressure warning lamp switch. through the bellhousing.
cleaner. Temperature gauge sender. 32 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
4 On fuel injection models, remove the air Cooling fan switch. using a block of wood between the jack and
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner Anti-dieselling valve (carburettor models). the gearbox to spread the load.
lid as an assembly. Automatic choke heater (carburettor models). 33 Unscrew and remove the remaining
5 Disconnect the breather hose from the Engine coolant temperature sensor. engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
camshaft cover, and unscrew the bolt securing Crankshaft speed/position sensor. from the engine adapter plate (see
the hose support bracket to the left-hand side Air charge temperature sensor. illustration). Recover any shims fitted
of the cylinder head (see illustration). Throttle position sensor. between the sump and the gearbox when
6 Drain the cooling system. Fuel temperature sensor. removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
7 To provide additional working space, Fuel injectors.
remove the radiator. 20 On models fitted with power steering,
8 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the unbolt the power steering pump from its
coolant pump housing on the left-hand side of mounting bracket and move it clear of the
the engine. engine. Note that there is no need to
9 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the disconnect the fluid hoses, but make sure that
thermostat housing.
the pump is adequately supported to avoid
10 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
straining them.
the inlet manifold.
21 On models fitted with air conditioning,
11 Where applicable, release the coolant
unbolt the air conditioning compressor from
hose from the bracket under the carburettor
its mounting bracket, and move it clear of the
automatic choke housing.
engine. Do not disconnect the hoses; make
12 On carburettor models, disconnect the
sure that the compressor is adequately
vacuum pipe from the engine management
supported to avoid straining them.
module.
22 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to- 5.33 Engine adapter plate bolt (arrowed)
13 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
from the inlet manifold.
DOHC engine 2B•5
5.36 Remove the engine mounting 5.37 Removing a brake line securing clip 5.38 Removing a suspension crossmember
brackets to improve clearance from the suspension crossmember securing bolt
34 Make a final check to ensure that all
6 Engine - removal leaving 7 Engine/manual gearbox
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal. automatic transmission in assembly - removal and
35 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting vehicle separation
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
the engine. Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
36 To improve clearance in the engine and lifting tackle will be required for this
and lifting tackle will be required for this
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt operation.
operation.
the engine mounting brackets from the 1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
Removal
cylinder block, and remove them (see of Section 5.
illustration). 1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
37 Detach the brake lines from the front of Section 5.
transmission bolts which are accessible from
2 Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
suspension crossmember (see illustration). the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
38 Support the crossmember with a jack (do the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
2B
the cylinder head.
not remove the jack from under the gearbox), transmission dipstick tube bracket, as
3 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
applicable.
then loosen the bolts securing the
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
3 Proceed as described in paragraphs 23 to 29
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
4 Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
of Section 5.
bolts from one side (see illustration), and
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
4 Where applicable, remove the bolt securing
carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently
Support”).
the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the left-
to allow the sump to clear the steering rack
Ensure that there is enough working room
hand side of the cylinder block.
and crossmember when pulling the engine
beneath the vehicle.
5 Working through the starter motor aperture,
forwards from the gearbox.
5 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
39 Gently raise the engine, then pull it
downpipe from the manifold, and remove the
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox.
exhaust system.
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
Ensure that the gearbox is adequately
6 Drain the engine oil into a suitable
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
supported, and take care not to strain the
container.
to each bolt in turn through the aperture.
gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to
7 On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
6 Support the transmission with a trolley jack,
rock the engine a little to release it from the
release the securing clips, and withdraw the
using a block of wood between the jack and
gearbox.
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
the transmission to spread the load.
40 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
access to the propeller shaft.
7 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage 8 Remove the propeller shaft.
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
the components in the engine compartment 9 Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
from the engine adapter plate. Recover any
(see illustration). then unscrew the two bolts in each case
shims fitted between the sump and the
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
transmission when removing the lower engine-
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
to-transmission bolts. Where applicable, pull
far as possible.
the blanking plug from the adapter plate.
10 Working inside the vehicle, place a
8 Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 38
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
of Section 5.
it fully against its stop, so holding the
9 Gently raise the engine, then pull the engine
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
forwards to disconnect it from the
quadrant.
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
11 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
is held firmly in place in the transmission
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in
through the bellhousing.
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
12 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
using a block of wood between the jack and
it from the transmission.
the gearbox to spread the load.
10 Once clear of the transmission, lift the
13 Unscrew the four nuts securing the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
damage the components in the engine
5.40 Lifting the engine from the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
compartment.
2B•6 DOHC engine
the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove Separation transmission crossmember to the vehicle
the crossmember. Note the position of the underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
28 To separate the engine from the gearbox,
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the the crossmember to the transmission, and
proceed as follows.
mounting cup, and where applicable the remove the crossmember. Note the position
29 Remove the starter motor.
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield. of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover
30 Support the engine and gearbox
14 Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack, the mounting cup, and where applicable, the
horizontally on blocks of wood.
then remove the securing circlip, and exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
31 Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts,
disconnect the speedometer drive cable from 12 Lower the transmission slightly on the
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
the gearbox. jack.
positions of the earth strap and any wiring
15 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims 13 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
lamp switch. On models with fuel injection, fitted between the sump and the gearbox fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
disconnect the wiri
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