Garrett McNamara Breaks Big Wave World Record: 100 ft wave. Portugal.
Wave period (T) = time for one wavelength topass fixed point (The time it takes for two wavecrests to pass a given point.)Wave frequency = inverse of period or 1/T Note: Frequency is the reciprocal of the time taken to complete one cycle (the period), or 1/T.EX 2: Waves with a period of 12 seconds will have a frequency of 1/12 or0.083, which converts to 5 periods/minute.
Write out:Wave Type Deep vs. Shallow Affects the ocean bottom?Wind Wave Deep Does not affect bottom (depth > ½ wavelength)Tsunami Shallow Strongly affects bottom. (depth is < ½ of wavelength).Tides Shallow Affects bottom.