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Lisbon
Fado, saudade and bacalhau; these are the three things
immediately connected with the capital city of Portugal.
Charming and stunning architectural treasures are
spread all over Lisbon, and its multiethnic society and
magical atmosphere make of it a special and lively
city. Want a taste of Lisbon? Here we go. Suggested
ingredients: a sip of Porto wine while listening to some
fado traditional music in a Fado House, a sight on the
river Tejo to get a hint of the meaning of “saudade”,
and a dish of bacalhau, chosen among the hundreds of
possible ways to cook cod fish in Portugal. Steer them
together, and you’ll see how Lisbon’s not just made of
bricks.
LISBON AT A GLANCE - TRANSPORTS - CLASSICS YOU CAN’T MISS - SHOPPING AND FLEA MARKETS - EAT & DRINK - NIGHTLIFE
INTERNET CAFES - CITY EVENTS - USEFUL NUMBERS

Flashbooking - Your free Lisbon city guide

» LISBON AT A pedestrian avenue is the centre of And then, prepare yourself for the point, the Baixa, you’ll end up in
a reticulate of little streets that have city’s nightlife! From the Baixa, the Alfama. It’s the most ancient
GLANCE the peculiarity, for the Marquis’ will, going towards west you’ll find the zone of the city, and survived the
Lisbon is a fascinating city. In 1755 it to be named after craftsmanship Chiado, and elegant zone which will earthquake thanks to the strong
was hit by a disastrous earthquake, jobs. Walk towards north through lead you directly to the Bairro Alto, rock on which it’s built. Its Moresque
and needed to be rebuilt in many Rua Augusta, and you’ll end up in absolutely a must for your Lisbon appearance brings us back to the
of its parts. The city plan was Praça Dom Pedro IV, also known nights! There are restaurants, clubs times in which it was the most
then reinvented by the Marquis as Rossio, directly connected to and cafés in every street, and in important part of the city, during the
of Pombal, who designed a new Praça da Figueira and Praça dos case you’re in a fado mood, no Arabic occupation; today it’s known
Lisbon, giving birth to the first anti- Restauradores. Go on through the doubt you’ll be able to find a fado to be a picturesque part of the city,
seismic buildings. Nowadays, it’s Avenida da Liberdade (Freedom house to have a drink while listening with its charming roads, shops and
got a historical centre and a modern Avenue) and you’ll finally meet the to some heartbreaking melody; but belvederes. On the top of the Alfama
one, so that you can walk through its Marquis of Pombal, in the square don’t worry, if fado’s not your genre there’s the Castelo de São Jorge,
ancient areas, then catch the metro named after him (Praça Marquês (although you should dedicate towering the surrounding area since
and find yourself in its astonishing de Pombal), which hosts his statue. a respectful thought to the most the 5th century, when it was built by
modern part, built for the Expo ‘98. Walk just a bit more further and traditional Portuguese music), you the Visigoths (it was then enlarged
The daytime centre is near the you’ll end up in a green area, to can cheer up with some lively pub by the Moors in the 9th century).
river Tejo and is called Baixa. relax a little bit; the green grass of or club, that you can easily find just A bit far away from the interesting
Its southern end is Praça do Parque Eduardo VII will help you walking about through the Bairro spots, but still worth a visit if you want
Comércio, a wide square looking having a little time for yourself and Alto streets. to have a look to the houses where
towards the flowing water, hosting an look at Lisbon’s blue sky. On the far western end of the city, two great Portuguese lived: the Casa
equestrian monument on its centre When you’re ready for some don’t miss Belém; here you will Museu Fernando Pessoa and the
and separated by a Triumph Arch modernity, go north-east, to the Casa Museu Amália Rodrigues.
from Rua Augusta. This shopping Parque das Nações. It’s the Expo Pessoa has certainly been one of
’98 area; very modern, it’s very the greatest Portuguese poets of
interesting from the architectural all times; it has actually been said
that he’s been not only a poet but
an entire literature. The last house
where he lived (for 15 years, until his
death, in 1935) is in Rua Coelho da
Rocha, 16 (Estrela area, north-east
from Cais do Sodré station. Monday
to Wednesday: 10 am–6 pm;
see the Jerónimos monastery Thursday: 1–8 pm; Friday: 10 am–6
and the Belém Tower, emblems pm; free entrance) and became a
of the Manuelin architecture (the cultural centre where some of the
XVI century’s Portuguese review of objects dearest to the poet (like his
point of view, and is also known for Baroque, named after Dom Manuel glasses and his diaries) are kept,
its huge Oceanarium – the biggest I). together with his famous portrait by
in Europe. Going east from our referring Almada Negreiros.
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Amália Rodrigues has been the occidental point in Europe – as the – don’t miss it! Another interesting 6 €, but you can buy a combined
most appreciated fado singer in the Portuguese writer Camões wrote, means of transport in Lisbon is the ticket for metro and “carris” (buses,
last century; her house, where she referring to this breathtaking cape, elevador. There are four (elevador funiculars and trams - www.carris.
lived from the ‘50s till her death, in “here, where the land ends and the da Bica from Bairro Alto to Cais do pt ) that will allow you to ride all
1999, became a museum, where sea begins”. Sodré; da Glória, from Bairro Alto to the “carris” and metros you like for
you’ll see her albums, her films’ Praça dos Restauradores; de Santa 5 days paying 13.50 € (1 day: 3.35
posters and her daily use objects. It Justa, from Baixa to Carmo; do €).
is in Rua de São Bento, 193 (São
» TRANSPORTS Lavra, from Avenida da Liberdade As for the city trains (www.cp.pt)
The most typical way to ride around
Bento area, east from the Bairro to São José), and they lead you up you can use them to reach Torre
Lisbon is with the eléctrico. It’s the
Alto. Tuesday to Sunday: 10 am–1 and down the hills of Lisbon. The de Belém, catching the train from
city tram, and you can buy the ticket
pm, 2–6 pm; 2 €). most famous one is the Elevador Cais do Sodré, paying 0.95 € for
on board for 1.30€. N°15 will lead
The river Tejo divides Lisbon in two de Santa Justa, in the Baixa; it’s a ten-minutes trip that will lead
you to Torre de Belém, while a ride
– although the central part is on the actually a lift that will bring you up to you to the west end of the city and
on the renowned n°28 will lead you
northern side, the other one has its the Carmo Church. But on a more to its marvellous tower. This train
through Bairro Alto, Alfama and other
charms, too. In Almada there’s the modern note, Lisbon’s quite well will continue towards Estoril and
Santuário do Cristo Rei (Christ Cascais, two nearby seaside cities
the King Sanctuary), a 110mt high that are worth a visit; the one way
statue of Christ built in 1959. The ticket will cost you 1.30 €, and you
connection between the two sides can get a 5 days ticket for 10.40 €.
is worth to be mentioned too: it’s the For trips outside Lisbon, there are
Ponte 5 de abril (25th April Bridge); two railway stations: Oriente (on
at first it had been named “Ponte the eastern side of the city, in the
Salazar”, after the dictator, because modern Parque das Nações area)
it was built in 1966, during his 46 and Santa Apolónia (next to Praça
years long dictatorship. Afterwards do Comércio, right in the centre).
it obviously and ironically changed If you plan a daytrip to Sintra or
its name into “Ponte 25 de Abril”, to Queluz, then reach the Rossio
in honour of the revolution day, station and catch the train from
occurred on the 25th April 1974. there. The tickets to Sintra cost 1.40
Some nice one-day trips around €, to Queluz 0.90 € for a one way
Lisbon: the most famous is Sintra, ticket; besides, you could buy a 5
where you’ll get to see its Castelo days ticket for 11.20 €.
dos Mouros with its gorgeous view, Another way to get around Lisbon
and get into the Palácio da Pena, are the taxis; fares are reasonable,
and then Queluz, where you can and you could get to be introduced
visit its wonderful Palace. Then, to served with its four underground to the city directly by the cab driver,
ancient parts of the city; in June it
feel some ocean air, go to Estoril, lines – yellow, green, blue and red. who’ll be certainly happy and proud
transforms into a “riding concert
Cascais and the most famous place You can ride the metro from 6 am to to show you his city’s wonders as
hall”, with fadistas singing their
to visit in the surroundings, Cabo da 1 am, and a single ticket costs 0.65 you pass them by. You can easily
fados while the tram goes on his way
Roca. It is well known to be the most €. A book of 10 tickets will cost you find a taxi in Praça Dom Pedro VI, in
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Avenida da Liberdade, at the Fluvial which you can’t miss the Praça do at his favourite café, A Brasileira, in this monastery is an example of
Station and outside the railway Comércio. In Pombal’s project, it was Rua Garrett, an elegant shopping Manuelin architecture. It hosts
stations (Oriente, Santa Apolónia). the focal point of the city, surrounded avenue. Just next to the Brasileira the tombs of Vasco da Gama and
Let’s not forget the river! To get by classical buildings and hosting café there’s the Teatro São Carlos, Luis de Camões, a wonderful
on the other side of the Tagus, in in its centre a statue of Dom José, built and named after the Naples’ cloister (Oct-May: 10 am-5 pm,
Cacilhas, you can catch boats sovereign at the earthquake time. theatre; a bit further, on the same May-Sep: 10 am-6.30 pm. Tickets:
from Cais do Sodré and Praça A Triumph Arc divides the square street, you’ll find the Museu do
do Comércio/Terreiro do Paço from Rua Augusta, a commercial Chiado (www.museudochiado-
(Estação Fluvial), and you’ll get to and pedestrian avenue, where ipmuseus.pt), the contemporary art
the other side of Lisbon paying 0.65 street artists perform their works, museum.
€ for a one way ticket. that will extend till Praça Dom Pedro Back to the central squares, in
If you plan your stay in Lisbon to VI. Before arriving there, stop on the Praça Dom Pedro VI (the most
be intense – as far as city trips and left: Rua de Santa Justa crosses ancient square of the city) you’ll get
museum visits are concerned – then Rua Augusta, and there you’ll see to see the Estação do Rossio, an
the Cartão Lisboa could be perfect the Elevador named after Santa interesting building to be seen from
for you: it allows you to catch all the Justa street. Built in 1902 following the outside (unfortunately the inside
city transports you like and to get a project by Raul Mésnier (an Eiffel isn’t as charming) and the Teatro
into as many as 25 museums (like pupil), it leads you to the Carmo Nacional Dona Maria II, built in 4.5 €) and two museums: the
the Gulbenkian) for free, and with convent. 1840. Museu da Arqueologia (www.
a 25% to 50% discount in many Now that’s a thing to see: the Igreja . Belém. It is a beautiful part of the mnarqueologia-ipmuseus.pt, open
others. You can buy it in the tourist do Carmo. It survived to the 1755 city, on the west side; you’d better 2–6 pm on Tuesdays, 10 am-6pm
offices, at the airport too; it costs earthquake, but the fire that spread catch a city train or an eléctrico to on Wednesdays and Sundays, 3
13.25 € for 1 day, 22.50 € for 2 days all over the city (in part due to the reach it, as it’s a bit far from the €; free on Sunday mornings) and
and 27.50 € for 3 days. candles burning in the churches, centre. On your way there, you’ll the Museu da Marinha (www.
that fell down with the shakes) pass next to the Ponte 5 de abril; museumarinha.pt, Apr-Sep: 10 am-
burnt its wooden ceiling, leaving the this bridge reminds the Portuguese 6 pm, Oct-Mar: 10 am-5 pm, 3 €), the
» CLASSICS YOU church hatless. The best you can people of their Revolution, occurred Navy Museum, which is connected
CAN’T MISS do, then, is to go into the church on the 25th April 1974. It put an to the Museu das Crianças (same
We tried to divide Lisbon in 6 areas and, between the columns that still end to Salazar’s long dictatorial timetable as the Museu da Marinha,
to simplify our first-time visitors, and stay proudly up, look upwards, at period (1933-1974) and, though but starting at 11 am; 1.50 € extra),
this is the result: the blue sky. it was a military revolution, not a the Kid’s Museum, with interactive
1. Baixa-Chiado After this quite unusual visit, walk single gun fired: the soldiers carried and fun parts.
2. Belém southwards, towards the Chiado carnations in their rifles – hence Right after the monastery, there’s
3. Alfama area. It’s the most elegant part the name, “Revolução dos Cravos” the Centro Cultural de Belém
4. Parque Eduardo VII of the city, and the two greatest (Carnation’s Revolution). (www.ccb.pt). It organizes concerts
5. Oriente Lisbon poets face here one another: After the bridge, on your right you’ll and cultural events, and from its
6. The other side of the river Camões’ statue declaims his verses see the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos cafeteria’s terrace you’ll have a first
from the centre of the square (www.mosteirojeronimos.pt/index_ view of Belém’s Garden and of the
1.Baixa-Chiado, Bairro Alto. This named after him, Praça Luís de mosteiro, free entrance); built in Padrão dos Descobrimentos, the
is the day-time central area, in Camões, while Pessoa’s statue sits the first half of the XVI century, commemorative monument to the
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Flashbooking - Your free Lisbon city guide
5
of Lisbon). Where can this Lisbon The Castelo de São Jorge (www. (battles or hunting, usually). This art
smell be, if not in its most ancient castelosaojorge.egeac.pt, Mar- has been brought by the Muslims in
and picturesque part, the Alfama? Oct: 9 am–9 pm; Nov-Feb: 9 am the VIII century, and, after the great
Its narrow streets will lead you to – 6 pm; 5 €) towers the Alfama; its earthquake, they have been used to
the ancient soul of the city; they walls proudly remind us of Lisbon protect buildings from fire, sun and
come from the Muslim culture, early history, being there since the rain.
dating back to the Moorish times 5th century, and the view from the . Parque Eduardo VII. When
(VII-XII centuries). Walk through castle hugs the whole city. Other you’re in a greenish mood and long
the labyrinth of streets, and you’ll musts in this area are the São for some peace, you can’t miss the
find the Alfama treasures: you’ll see Vicente de Fora church, where Parque Eduardo VII; you’ll reach
Portuguese conquerors in front of the Sé (Cathedral), that was built all the Portuguese kings from it with a nice walk from the Rossio
the Belém Cultural Centre, erected in the XII century in Romanesque João IV (XVII century) to Manuel square: Avenida da Liberdade will
on the riverside. The first of the 33 style and looks like a fortress; the II (last king of Portugal, beginning lead you to Praça Marquês de
statues that look towards the river of XX century) are buried, and the Pombal, and after that here you
from the monument is the Infante Museu Nacional do azulejo (www. are in the biggest green area of the
Dom Enrique the Navigator, prince city. On its northern end there are
of Portugal in the XV century; the Estufas, huge greenhouses
you may either think it’s genially hosting tropical plants, pools and
beautiful or hate it… it’s up to you:
go, have a look and decide! In
any case, take a look at the floor
in front of it: you’ll be walking on
an enormous atlas! And then, the
Torre de Belém, finally! (www.
mosteirojeronimos.pt/index_torre. Igreja de Santo António, on the left
html) Another example of manuelin side of the Sé: Saint Anthony was
architecture, it was built between born in Lisbon, and a church was
1515 and 1520 to protect the city erected in his honour. Then, there’s
port; it was actually in the middle of the Casa do Fado e da Guitarra
the river, when it was built, but then Portuguesa (www.museudofado.
the earthquake changed the Tagus egeac.pt, Tuesday-Sunday 10 am mnazulejo-ipmuseus.pt, Tuesdays
flowing and now the water wets only – 6 pm), in Largo do Chafariz de 2–6 pm, Wednesdays to Sundays:
three of its four sides. Going inside Dentro, a museum dedicated to the 10 am–6 pm, 3 €). The azulejos are
you’ll have a gorgeous sight of the traditional Portuguese music, and ceramics tiles – traditionally blue
river (open from Tuesday to Sunday. some breathtaking viewpoints. The – with different kind of drawings:
June-September: 10 am–6.30 pm; most famous one is the Miradouro men works, animals and flowers.
October-May: 10 am–5 pm. 3 €). de Santa Lúzia; sitting on seats The most common are the flowered
. Alfama. There’s a Portuguese made out of azulejos you’ll get a ones, among the individual azulejos,
song that goes “cheira bem, cheira wonderful view on the Alfama and but you’ll find them as well as an
a Lisboa” (it smells good, it smells the river. ensemble, to represent huge scenes
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an enormous variety of palms and by Portuguese artists of the XX on the coast, you’ll get to see the de Santa Clara, on the east side of
cactuses. century. Cristo Rei (Christ King; open every the Alfama; the time is Monday and
Once there, with a ten minutes walk 5. Oriente. The eastern end of the day, Jun-Sep: 9 am–7.30 pm; Oct- Saturday from 6 am to 3 pm. Don’t
you’ll get to the Fundação Calouste city, Oriente, hosted in 1998 the May: 9 am–6 pm, 2 €), a “modest” just accept the price they propose
Gulbenkian (www.gulbenkian.pt, last exposition of the XX century. (but still quite big) version of the Rio you: trying to reduce the prices is
Tuesdays: 2–6 pm, Wednesday to Its theme was “The oceans: a de Janeiro one. part of the game! The best way to
Sunday: 10 am–6 pm, 3 €, Museu heritage for the future”, and a arrive to the most typical flea market
da Arte Moderna – same timetable huge oceanarium was built for the in Lisbon is the famous ‘eléctrico’ n°
as the Gulbenkian -inclusive ticket: occasion (www.oceanario.pt, 10.50
» SHOPPING AND 28; get down at the Arco de São
€); it’s the biggest in Europe and FLEA MARKETS Vicente and start your shopping!
something like 25.000 fishes and sea Let’s start saying that Lisbon prices Then don’t miss the Mercado da
animals live there. But have a look will make a shopaholic out of you; Ribeira (coast market), in Avenida
at the Gare de Oriente, when you then, to begin with, the most famous 24 de Julho, in the Cais do Sodré
get there: the railway station itself flea market in Lisbon is the Feira da area (metro: Cais do Sodré station).
is a stunning modern architecture From Monday to Saturday 6 am-2 pm
building in glass and cement. Don’t you’ll find there every kind of meat,
have great expectations for the fish, vegetables, cheese and wine;
Torre Vasco da Gama (Jun-Sep: 10 from 3 to 9 pm it transforms into a
am–6 pm; Oct-May: 10 am–9 pm, flowers market. But it’s not just that.
2.50 €), it’s not that charming…but On the upper floor (everyday, 10
you can go up and have a gorgeous am–10 pm) the Loja do Artesanato
view of the city. Then have a look (handicraft shop) will expose for you
at the Ponte Vasco da Gama, craftsmen works from the Tagus
inaugurated in 1998; 17.2 km long, Valley, while fresh bread, cheese,
it’s the longest bridge in Europe. wine and typical snacks will be sold,
Then, the Pavilhão Atlântico (www. on the same floor, from 10 am to 11
pavilhaoatlantico.pt): Álvaro Siza pm. On the centre there’s a stage,
Vieira, one of the top contemporary where music bands will perform on
architects, projected it and it was Friday and Saturday from 10 pm to
ready for the Expo ’98. it’s a concert 1 am.
and sporting events hall, the biggest But then let’s not forget the shopping
in Portugal. avenues and centres; shops usually
5 €. Free on Sundays). It’s the most . The other side of the river. Much open around 10 am, and close at
important cultural centre in Portugal less known, out of the city centre, it’s 8 pm – apart from the shopping
and the art collection of the Museum still something worth a visit…first of Ladra. Though the name could not centres, which are likely to stay
goes from the Egyptian period to all, to get there you can either cross sound inviting (it means “thieves’ open until 11 pm/midnight. So: as
the French impressionists, passing the Ponte 25 de Abril or catch a ferry fair”), there are many interesting far as street shops are concerned,
through art nouveau, Islamic cloths from Praça do Comércio or Cais do things you can find there: colonial let’s begin with Rua Augusta: Zara,
and much more. The Museu de Sodré, which is, by itself, a very stuff, old dresses, CDs, old photos, Mango and Bershka are the most
Arte Moderna hosts artworks nice thing to do. Then, once you get and so on. The setting is Campo known clothing shops, spread all
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over Portugal and part of the Rua » EAT & DRINK cream and potatoes), Bacalhau chicken stomach, ask for moelas
Augusta’s shopping attractions. In the The gastronomic part of your trip à Bráz (fried, frayed, with eggs – served in pieces, drowned in an
Chiado you’ll find the Armazéns do to Lisbon should start right in the and potatoes) and Bacalhau à abundant and spicy sauce, with
Chiado (www.armazensdochiado. morning, taking a good Portuguese Lagareiro (in the oven with onions bread to accompany.
com), the shopping centre of the and peppers). Then, an interesting Desserts: leite creme (a kind of
area, and a bunch of other street dish is the Carne de porco à custard, with sugar on the top and
shops, while in the Avenida da alentejana (pork in the Alentejo grilled) and arroz doce (“sweet
Liberdade shops like Emporio way), a mixture of potatoes, pork rice”: that’s what it is! Rice cooked
Armani, Trussardi, Louis Vuitton, and…clams! In Lisbon caracóis with milk, sugar, lemon rind and
Furla and many others are waiting (snails) are very popular, and then a cinnamon).
for you – though the prices rise a tiny variety of fish and meat. If you long Drinks: Porto wine is obviously a
bit in this area… As for the shopping for a soup, then you can ask for a must, but try some vinho verde,
centres, the Vasco da Gama (www. caldo verde (a cabbage soup with too; after a good dinner, the licor
centrovascodagama.pt) is perhaps chouriço – cured spiced sausage beirão is one of the Portuguese
the most famous one (just in front of – slices) or a sopa da pedra (the typical liquors, together with the
the Gare de Oriente, red line) and El amêndoa amarga (almonds liquor)
Corte Ingles (www.elcorteingles.pt) pequeno almoço (breakfast) made and, typical of Lisbon, the ginja
is a quite new one, near the Parque of galão (hot milk with coffee, (the beloved Lisbon’s ginginha, a
Eduardo VII (get off the metro at the Portuguese version of the black cherry liquor). If you’d like a
São Sebastião, blue line). Though cappuccino) and a bolinho – a little refreshing beer, then a Super Bock
a bit out of the city, the Freeport cake; you’ll get to choose among will help – it’s the Portuguese beer
Outlet Shopping (www.freeport. a good variety of them. The most brand, along with Sagres; ask for an
pt) is worth to be mentioned: it’s the traditional ones are the pastéis de “imperial” to have a glass, “caneca”
biggest outlet in Europe, where you’ll nata (little puff pastry baskets filled for a tankard; “garrafa” for a bottle.
find just everything – international with custard and sprinkled with Notice that as soon as you’ll sit at a
brands, cinemas, bars, restaurants cinnamon and icing sugar). Then, table of a restaurant the waiters will
and much more. To get there catch in the middle of the afternoon, you bring you olives, patés, cheeses and
the bus from the bus terminal in the shouldn’t forget the lanche – it’s name, “stone soup”, is based on a bread without being asked – you’ll
Expo area, it will lead you to the the afternoon snack, usually salty, legend, which tells the story of a pay just what you’ll eat!
Canto do Pinheiro, in Alcochete (it waiting for the late dinner: a torrada beggar who asked a lady for some Now that we’ve got an idea of what
will take about 35 minutes). (a thick leaf of grilled bread with hot water and a stone to make his to eat and drink, let’s see where.
But then just go into the little streets salty butter) or a croissant misto (a soup. Made curious, the lady gave There are some bars you can’t miss:
around the Baixa, and you’ll find tiny huge croissant filled with ham and him what he asked, while he carried A brasileira (Chiado, Rua Garrett,
shops selling flags, or even specific cheese) will perfectly do. on adding ingredients to it; it ended 120/122, +351 213 469 541) was
shops for the patches carrying the As for the main meals, the up to be a full soup with everything Fernando Pessoa’s favourite bar,
university symbols that the students Portuguese typical dish is bacalhau the lady had in her kitchen, and that’s and there’s his bronze statue sitting
sew to their traditional university (cod fish); they cook it in lots of actually how it’s made: with all the at a table outside. Nicola, the most
dresses, and much more interesting ways, though maybe the ones you’ll vegetable and sausages the chef famous bars in Portugal, offer a wide
shops not listed in any internet site. find more frequently are Bacalhau has got at his disposal!). When you’ range of cakes and salty snacks and
com natas (in the oven, frayed, with re ready to experience some spiced you can find many of them around
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the city, like in Praça Dom Pedro IV. fruits in your ginja. It’s in front of the
The Antiga Confeitaria de Belém Teatro Dona Maria II, in Largo São SUGGESTED CDs
(Belém, Rua de Belém 84/92, +351 Domingos.
213 637 423, www.pasteisdebelem. If you’re ready for dinner, here Madredeus, Ainda; Mariza,
pt), beautifully decorated with are some restaurants you could Fado em mim; Ala dos
azulejos, is absolutely a must; it try. One is the Cervejaria da namorados, Ao vivo em São
© Zè Manel
prepares and sells pastéis de nata Trindade (Bairro Alto, Rua Nova Luis ; Amália Rodrigues –
since 1837. They’re actually called da Trindade, 20, +351 213 423 anything from the most famous
“pastéis de Belém” there, because 506, www.cervejariatrindade.pt), fadista.
this bar/confectioner’s shop follows in a XIX century building; its walls Last but not least, the Fado Houses:
the secret and ancient monks’ recipe are decorated with azulejos. You you can have dinner there listening
for the pastéis. It is said that asking can either pop in for a drink or to some fado, the typical Portuguese
for just one brings bad luck, so you’ll have a full meal, which are good music, but be sure not to be loud.
have a good excuse to ask for two and not expensive. Another very Silence is mandatory when a fadista
» NIGHTLIFE
– what a pity… good one – though more expensive sings, and a clearing of throat, Get ready to live Lisbon’s night! The
Then, be sure to visit this special than the Portuguese average – is instead of the more usual clapping most central and liveliest area is the
place for the ginjinha: it’s a tiny bar Martinho da Arcada (Baixa, Praça of hands, is what they expect when Bairro Alto, offering a wide range
where the only thing you have to do Comércio, 3, +351 213 426 the song is over. Just a few names: of bars, pubs, taverns and fado
choose is if you do or do not want 840, www.martinhodaalcada.pt). It Faia (Bairro Alto, Rua da Barraca, houses, from the traditional spots to
practically remained just as it was at 54/56 - +351 213 426 742, www. the “in” ones, while the Avenida 
the beginning of the XX century; it ofaia.com), excellent food, though de Julho and the Alcântara area,
was where Fernando Pessoa used a bit expensive; Parreirinha de
to go. But if you’re looking for a near the Ponte 25 de Abril, are
Alfama (Alfama, Beco do Espírito renowned for their discos and music
place where the locals have dinner, Santo, 1, +351 218 868 209),
then there’s the 1° de Maio (Bairro pubs. So, starting from the Avenida,
generally crowded with fado lovers;
Alto, Rua da Atalaia, 8, +351 213 Timpanas (Alcântara, near the the Kremlin (Escadinhas da Praia,
426 840). Cheap and authentic, they Ponte 25 de Abril, Rua Gilberto 5; +351 216 951 181) will have you
serve fish and meat specialities. Rola, 24 - +351 213 972 431), out dancing from midnight to 7 am (9
If you’re a vegetarian, no need to of the city centre, but probably the am on Fridays and Saturdays), but
panic: the Terra restaurant (Bairro most authentic and “Portuguese” don’t go there before 2 am. Then,
Alto, Rua da Palmeira, 15, +351 Fado House in Lisbon. the B.leza (Largo Conde-Barão, 50,
213 421 407, www.terra.vg) only But then, the best you can do to Cais do Sodré area, +351 213 963
cooks vegetarian dishes, served in enjoy the typical Portuguese cuisine
a moderately priced buffet. 735) will offer you an afro-music
is just walk around though the little night, together with some Cape
To enjoy a wonderful view of Lisbon streets in the Baixa, beyond the
from the other side of the river, Verdean food, in a beautiful XVI
Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II, in
there’s the Ponto Final (Cais do the Alfama and especially in the century building. Before heading
Ginjal, 72, Cacilhas - Almada, +351 Bairro Alto, and you’ll find plenty to the Bairro Alto, there’s at least
212 760 743), which will serve you of little restaurants cooking typical one stop in the Alfama, at the Pé
good and traditional dishes. Portuguese cuisine! Sujo (“Dirty Foot”…Largo de São
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Flashbooking - Your free Lisbon city guide

Teatro São Carlos (www.saocarlos. 157-159, +351 213 230 012, www.
pt) and the Teatro Nacional Dona netcentercafe.com). For 0.75 € per Famous people from
Maria II (www.teatro-dmaria.pt) will 15 minutes you’ll get your pc at the
Cyber.bica (Chiado, Rua Duques Lisbon
offer you some shows – remember • Fernando Bulhão (Saint
that the São Carlos has more an de Bragança, 7, +351 213 225 004,
www.cyberbica.com); if you’re in the Anthony), 1195-1231;
opera-ballet style, while the Dona • Vasco da Gama,
Oriente area, then you can stop at the
Maria II usually performs theatrical CiberOceanos (Oriente, Avenida conqueror, 1468-1524;
pieces (Portuguese and not). D. João II, Gare de Oriente, +351 • Luís de Camões, writer,
As for the cinemas, good news: all 218 951 995, www.ciberoceanos. 1524-1580;
the films are in the original tongue com). • Fernando Pessoa,
(subtitled in Portuguese), so you’ll writer(s), 1888-1935;
easily find a movie in English. In » CITY EVENTS • Amália Rodrigues, fado
many shopping centres there are FEBRUARY: Carnival – party! Join singer, 1920-1999;
some cinemas (like the Centro the carnival street parades! • Luís Figo, football player,
Vasco da Gama or El Corte Ingles), MARCH: Half Marathon – from the 1972;
but the Instituto da Cinemática “other side” of the 25th April bridge till • Madredeus, fado group,
Portuguesa (Rua Barata Salgueiro, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos – start
1985
39, metro Avenida, +351 213 596 running!
266) has a small cinema museum, Spring party – the “festa de
which might be interesting, and primavera” is at the Belém Cultural 28th there will be the Festas dos
Centre. Santos Populares (feats of the
Martinho, 6-7, +351 218 866 144), mainly screens Portuguese
APRIL: The 25th is the Revolution popular Saints): grilled sardines are
near the Cathedral. There’s live contemporary and classical films Anniversary. Carnations are the
(this might cause a slight problem a must, and there are street parties
music almost every night. But here flowers of the day! all over the city.
we are: Bairro alto. In every street with the language, though). Then, enjoy the CCB Music Festival An interesting event is the Fado no
a multitude of people and bars – lots of concerts in a 3 days event! eléctrico: the tram n° 28 will turn
everywhere; if you fancy a tequila or » INTERNET CAFES MAY: Rock in Rio – a major music itself into a riding stage, and its
If you need to have an internet event in Bela Vista Park, it lasts 6 trips will be fado concerts held by
a caipirinha, stop at A Tasca Tequila
access, you’ll easily find an internet days and hosts international artists! famous fadistas. To continue your
Bar (Travessa da Queimada, 13- Super Bock Super Rock – the
15, +351 213 424 910), a colourful café. Their average price is around fado trip, there’s the Fado Festival,
2-3 € per hour, but in some of famous beer is the sponsor of this
Mexican bar, and if you’d like to great music festival. A week-end of
them you’ll even get free internet
enjoy some jazz music, there’s the connection. Here are some: Mar music with singers from all over the
Tertúlia (Rua Diário de Notícias, Adentro Café (Rua do Alecrim, world!
60, +351 213 462 704). If you want 35, between the Cais do Sodré and JUNE: On the 10th the Dia de
to play something at the piano, go Baixa-Chiado metro stations, +351 Portugal will fill the city – and the
ahead: it’s at your disposal! 213 469 158), NetCenterCafé country – with celebrations and
If you’re in a theatre mood, the (Bairro Alto, Rua Diário de Notícias, parades, while from the 12th to the
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Flashbooking - Your free Lisbon city guide
10
held inside the walls of the Castelo and the USA will jazz for you! km running throughout the city: it » USEFUL NUMBERS
de São Jorge – magical. SEPTEMBER: Another Half will make 3 circular routes, each one Here’s some numbers you may
JULY: From July till September, Marathon, this time on the other starting from Praça do Comércio. need:
every week-end, Rua Augusta will side of the city: from Ponte Vasco de And finally, the Noite mágica: Country code: 00351
be the centre of the BaixAnima, the Gama to the Parque das Nações. say goodbye to the old year and Red Cross ambulance – 219 421
street festival with music, dance, After the marathon, the Festa welcome the new one, celebrate in 111
circus and sport events. Then, ready do Avante will cheer you up. It’s Lisbon! Red Cross hospital – 217 714 000
for some theatre? The Almada organized by the Communist Party, Lisbon Police - 218 641 000
and music of all genres will be Emergency number – 112
played for everyone, no matter the Forest protection - 117
political beliefs! Then, the Lisbon SUGGESTED FILMS: Operator – 171
Gay and Lesbian Film Festival will Lisbon story, Win Wenders Telegrams – 1583
screen more than 100 films! April’s Captains, Maria de Tourist information – 808 781 212
OCTOBER: The Chiado Feast Medeiros Information on Portuguese
will fill the noble part of the city telephone numbers – 118
with concerts, expositions and Information on international
lectures. If you’re ready for some SUGGESTED BOOKS
Declares Pereira, Antonio telephone numbers – 177
cat-walks, then go to Moda Lisboa Debited calls in Portugal – 120/
– Portuguese designers will show Tabucchi
outside Portugal – 171
their works at the Armazém Terlis. The history of the siege of
International Theatre Festival will NOVEMBER: St. Martin’s! On the Lisbon, José Saramago
have theatrical pieces performed in 11th take the chance to celebrate the Any book by Fernando
various stages throughout the city. good Saint with roasted chestnuts Pessoa
AUGUST: Jazz. At the Fundação and jeropiga wine!
Gulbenkian. Artists from Europe DECEMBER: A full Marathon – 42
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