Online Textile and apparel Merchandising course offer free. Contacts: Email: faruqtexeng@gmail.com Cell: +8801725425906

1. Fiber :
Kinds of Fiber :
1. Natural Fiber
2. Synthetic Fiber
Natural Fiber :
1. Vegetable Fiber
2. Animal Fiber
1. Vegetable Fiber: Cotton , Linen , Jut etc.
2. Animal Fiber: Wool, Silk etc.
Synthetic Fiber / Man Made Fiber: Viscose Rayon, Polyester, Nylon,
Acrylic etc.
Cotton:
Cotton staple is usually between 3/8 inch and 2-1/4 inch long. For making yarn ,
Cotton staple of less than ½ inch long is not for spinning into yarn. Long staple is
High quality yarn. Short Staple is low quality yarn.
Cotton is Divided into 4 groups:
1. Sea Island Cotton ( Staple length – 2-1/4 inch , Country: Island )
2. Pima Cotton (Staple Length-1-3/4 inch , Peru & Egyptian)
3. U.S. Cotton ( Staple Length-1-1/2 inch)
4. Asian Cotton ( Staple Length-1-1/8 inch, Country- Japan, China, Pakistan,
India)
Characteristics of Textile Fiber:
1. Cotton : Soft, Very absorbent, Shrinks when washed , easy to crease.
2. Ramie & Linen: Compared to cotton , not soft , Less absorbent, shrinks
when washed, but to a less extent, easy to crease.
3. Rayon: Compared to cotton, softer than cotton, equally absorbent, shrinks
more than cotton , very easy to crease, has a luster like silk.
4. Polyester: Compared to cotton, not soft, not absorbent at all, does ton
shrink in normal wash , not easy to crease.

2. 5. Wool: Compared to cotton, not very soft, not absorbent. The staple is
slightly crimpy which can lead to a bulky effect when finally made into a
fabric. It shrinks seriously when washed in hot water. Not easy to crease.
6. Nylon: Can be soft or firm dependent on the finish applied, not absorbent,
does not shrink when washed, not easy to crease, very strong.
7. Silk: Finer and softer than cotton , equally absorbent, shrinks more than
cotton easy to crease , has a smooth surface with luster when it is made into
fabric.
8. Acrylic: Not soft, not absorbent, does not shrink in normal wash. The
staple is slightly crimpy which can make the final product, the fabric, bulky
or beefy, not easy to crease.
Yarn:
1. Spun yarn
2. Filament Yarn
Ring Spun yarn : Spun yarn is spun by spindles it is called ring spun yarn.
20/2 – 20 count 2 ply
20/3 – 20 count 3 ply
60 / 4 – 60 count 4 ply
Carded Yarn : Without combing produced the carded yarn . Such as: 3s, 40s , 60s
etc.
Combed yarn: Produced the yarn with combing process. Cost is high. Such as:
76s
Rotor yarn : Produced the lower count yarn. Such as: 7s to 20s .
Filament yarn: 70 Denier.
OE yarn ( open end yarn) : OE yarn is spun by means by air current and not by
spindles.
Polyester Cotton Blended: In the trade , we call this blend, “TC”. TC stands for
Tetron & Cotton. Tetoron is also Called Polyester.
“ TC” Fabric usually means 65% Polyester, 35% cotton, but strictly speaking it
means 51% or more of polyester with balance in cotton.

3. Other Blended:
Polyester-Wool
Acrylic –Wool
Polyester-Rayon
Silk – cotton
Rayon-cotton
T-R-C (Polyester, rayon & cotton)
Popular Textile yarn Sizes:
Most Popular Sizes Less Popular sizes
Cotton Cotton
TC/CVC TC/CVC
6s
7s
8s
8s
10s
10s
12s
13s
14s
14s
16s
16s
17s
20s
20s
21s
21s
24s
24s
30s
30s
32s
32s
33s
40s
42s

4. 45s
60s
60s
Flow chart of Carded Yarn:
Blow Room ………………………………………….Lap
Carding ………………………………… ……….Carded Sliver
Pre comb Drawing Frame …………………….Drawing sliver /drawn sliver
Post comb Drawing Frame …………………….Drawing sliver /drawn sliver
Speed Frame / Simplex …………………………Roving
Ring Frame ……………………………………..Yarn (ring bobbin)
Winding ………………………………………. Cone or other Package
Reeling………………………………………….Hank
Bundling ……………………………………….Bundle
Baling …………………………………………..Bale
Yarn in Hank Form ……………………………..Finished Hank bale
Flow chart of Carded Yarn:
Blow Room ………………………………………….Lap
Carding ………………………………… ……….Carded Sliver

5. Pre comb Drawing Frame …………………….Drawing sliver /drawn sliver
Lap former ……………………………………….Mini Lap
Combing ………………………………………….Combed sliver
Post comb Drawing Frame …………………….Drawing sliver /drawn sliver
Speed Frame / Simplex …………………………Roving
Ring Frame ……………………………………..Yarn (ring bobbin)
Winding ………………………………………. Cone or other Package
Reeling………………………………………….Hank
Bundling ……………………………………….Bundle
Baling …………………………………………..Bale
Yarn in Hank Form ……………………………..Finished Hank bale
Price of Cotton & Cotton Mixed Yarn :
SL. Yarn Count Price $ /Lbs
01 100% Cotton (Carded) 2/20 “NE” 2.10/ Lbs
02 100% Cotton ( Combed 2/20 “NE” 2.40/ Lbs
with soft Quality)
03 100% Cotton (Carded) 2/30, 2/32 “NE” 2.45/ Lbs
04 100% Cotton ( Combed) 2/30 “NE” 2.65/ Lbs
05 100% Cotton ( Combed) 2/32 “NE” 2.60/ Lbs
06 100% Cotton ( Combed) 2/40 “NE” 3.60/ Lbs
07 100% Cotton SLUB Yarn 2/32 “NE” 3.60/ Lbs
08 50% Cotton 50% Acrylic 2/20 “NE” 2.75/ Lbs
09 50% Cotton 50% Acrylic 2/30 “NE” 3.00/ Lbs
10 55% Cotton 45% Acrylic 2/20 “NE” 2.90/ Lbs
11 55% Cotton 45% Acrylic 2/30 “NE” 3.25/ Lbs
12 60% Cotton 40% Acrylic 2/16 ‘s 3.00/ Lbs

6. (Roving yarn )
13 60% Cotton 40% Acrylic 2/16 ‘s 3.10/ Lbs
(Roving yarn )
14 60% Cotton 40% Acrylic 2/16 ‘s 2.90/ Lbs
15 80% Cotton 20% Wool 2/32 Nm Not Available
16 100% Cotton mélange 2/20 & 2/32 “NE” Not Available
Viscose Rayon:
SL. Yarn Count Price $ /Lbs
01 100% Viscose Rayon 2/30 “NM” 2.80 /Lbs
02 70% Viscose Rayon 30% 2/30 “NM” 3.60 / Lbs
Acrylic (Solid & mélange
)
Nylon / Spandex / Lacra :
Yarn Count Price $ /Lbs
01 Nylon / Spandex / Lacra 70% / 20% 4.60 /Lbs
02 100% Nylon / Polimaed 70 D/2 (Double) 3.70 /Lbs
03 100% Nylon / Polimaed 70 D/1 (Single) 3.90 /Lbs
Price Quotation of Knit Yarn
From: BF Textiles Ltd.
Dhaka , Bangladesh
Sub : Price Quotation for Knit Yarn.
Dear Sir,
We would like to give very special offer for you, please give us the order so that
we can arrange as per your requirement. Please find below the price.
SL/no Description of Yarn Price in US$
01 24/1-26/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone $3.55
Yarn Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

7. 02 28/1-30/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone $3.60
Yarn Usterized and Electronically cleaned.
03 32/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn $3.70
Usterized and Electronically cleaned.
04 34/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn $3.80
Usterized and Electronically cleaned.
05 36/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn $3.90
Usterized and Electronically cleaned.
06 40/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn $4.10
Usterized and Electronically cleaned.
Offer Validity: This offer is valid up to: 01.01.2011
We hope, your honor would find our offer suitable and favor us with your valued
order. Your kind Cooperation will be highly appreciated
Thanking you.
Senior Executive
Business Development
BF Textile Ltd.
Cell: 01725-425906
Email: …………..
Measurement of Yarn Count:
We have followed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we
unravel a considerable no yarn form the fabric. Then we measured the total length
of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we
find out the Count of the yarn.
The equation we followed is as follow:
Count = (N x L x 453.6 ) / ( Wt. x 36 x 840)
Where,
N = number of yarn in bundle
L = length of yarn
Wt. = weight of yarn.

8. Another formula is the following :
GSM = (Ks x Tex ) / Stitch length (mm )
Where,
Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type.
Ks is calculated and estimated as below:
Ks = ( GSM x Stitch length) / Tex
Fabric Type Color Value of Ks
Single Jersey Average 19.55
Single lacoste Average 22.4
Double Lacoste Average 22.75
Polo pique Average 25
Plain Interlock Average 39.3
1 x 1 Rib Average 24.5
1 x 1 Rib Average 26.5
2 x 1 Rib Average 28.3
Flat back Rib - 81
3 Thread fleece - 40.92
Yarn count numbering system :
Yarn Count conversion Unit
Symbols Type Constant Unit
Ne, NeC, 840
Cotton Count fixed weight 1 pound
NeB yards
Tex TEX, T fixed length 1,000 meter 1 gram
1,000
Metric Count Nm fixed weight 1,000 gram
meter
333
Metric Ticket Tkt fixed weight 1,000 gram
meter
Denier Td, d fixed length 9,000 meter 1 gram
300
Linen Count NeL fixed weight 1 pound
yards
256
Wool Count NeW fixed weight 1 pound
yards

9. fixed weight,
Silk Machine A=900 yards, 100
1 ounce
Twist B=800 yards, yards
F=300 yards, etc.
Some Common Yarn Count.
List of some most used yarn count
The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given:
YARN COUNT:
a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.
b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne.
c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne.
d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne.
e) Spandex: 20D, 40D, 70D.
f) Polyester: 75D, 150D.
g) Sewing thread: 50/2, 40/2, 75D, 150D etc.
Basic knowledge of knit Fabric
1. Plain /Single/Jersey knit: People call it jersey knit . a weft knit process
producing a plain , flat surfaced knitted fabric formed with a distinct face
and back. Smooth side are called Face. Produced T-shirt, under-wear,
sports wear etc by Single jersey fabric.
2. Interlock Fabric: A weft knit process producing a compound fabric. It is
less elasticity fabric. Actually it is Double faced knitted fabric which face &

10. Back side looks same and smooth. Produced Polo-Shirt , T-shirt , under-
wear by Interlock fabric.
3. Rib Fabric: A weft knit process producing a double faced fabric. Distinct
effect looks at lengthwise and more elasticity in fabric width. Examples:
1x1 rib, 2x 1 rib, 2x 2 rib , 3x1 rib , 3 x 3 rib , 5 x 2 rib etc. Produced T-
shirt, Polo-shirt by Rib fabric.
4. Fleece Fabric: One side looks like Jersey , the other side heavely brushed.
5. Flat knit: Flat knit is a weft knit fabric but do not produced tube fabric as
circular knitting. Produced the knit collar , Cuff etc.
6. Yarn Dyed fabric: At first , dyeing the yarn then produced the fabric by
color yarn that is called yarn dyed fabric.
7. Piece dyed fabric: when produced the fabric by Natural color yarn that is
called Raw Fabric. For produced the Piece dyed fabric at first bleaching
the raw fabric then dyeing .so that is called Piece dyed or Solid dyed
fabric.
8. Feeder Stripe: More color yarns are used in the Feeder stripe but Repeat
size will be 2 inch.
9. Engineering stripe: More color yarns are used in the Feeder stripe but
Repeat size are not fixed.
TC Fabric / PC Fabric Analysis:
Polyester Cotton
Warp (TC) = 65% 35 %
Weft 100% Cotton = 100% 0%
Total = 165% 35%
165% divided by 2 = 82.5% Polyester
35 divided by 2 = 17.5% cotton
Therefore, The fabric is TC 82.5% polyester , 17.5% cotton.
However , if you change the weft from 100% polyester to 100% cotton, then
this fabric is CVC. See following calculation:

11. Polyester Cotton
Warp (TC) = 65% 35 %
Weft 100% Cotton = 0% 100%
Total = 65% 135%
65% divided by 2 = 32.5% Polyester
135 divided by 2 = 67.5% cotton
Therefore, The fabric is CVC 32.5% polyester , 67.5% cotton.
Fabric , GSM, & Yarn Count
Fabric Name Weight /GSM Yarn Count
Single Jersey 200-230 20s
Single Jersey 180-190 24s
Single Jersey 165-175 26s
Single Jersey 150/155-165 28s
Single Jersey 135-145 30s
Single Jersey 125-135 32s
Fabric Name Weight / GSM Yarn Count
Pique 235-240 24s
Pique 220-225 26s
Pique 190-210 28s
Pique 180-190 30s
Pique 160-170 32s
Fabric Name Weight / GSM Yarn Count
Interlock Fabric 260-270 30s
Interlock Fabric 240-250 32s
Interlock Fabric 220-230 34s
Interlock Fabric 200-210 36s
Interlock Fabric 190-200 40s
Fabric Name Weight / GSM Yarn Count
Rib Fabric 280-300 20s

12. Rib Fabric 240-260 24s
Rib Fabric 220-230 26s
Rib Fabric 200-210/215 28s
Rib Fabric 180-200 30s
Rib Fabric 160-180 32s
Fabric Name Weight / GSM Yarn Count
Fleece Fabric 310 26/20s
Fleece Fabric 280 30/16s
Fleece Fabric 260 30/24s
Fleece Fabric 240 30/26s
Fabric knitting cost
Sl. Machine Yarn Knitting charge
Fabric Type
No. Gauge Count Per Kg in Taka
20/s-
1 Single Jersey (M/C Dia 19-38) 24 10
30/s
20/s-
2 Single Jersey (M/C Dia 40-48) 24 11
30/s
26/s-
3 Single Jersey 28 13
30/s
34/s-
4 Single Jersey 24 14-16
40/s
16/s-
5 Single Jersey 20 16-25
18/s
6 Single Jersey Slub Yarn 24 15-20
7 Single Jersey Slub Yarn 20 18-20
S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia
8 24 20-30
18-40)
S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia
9 24 28-30
42-48)
S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia
10 20 25-30
18-40)
S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia
11 20 35-40
42-48)
40/2-
12 Heavy Jersey (2 ply) 20 15-18
26/2
30/s-
13 Half Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24 22-24
40/s

13. H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe
14 24 30-35
(M/C Dia 18-40)
H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe
15 24 40-45
(M/C Dia 42-48)
30/s-
16 Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24/28 28
34/s
36/s-
17 Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24/28 30
40/s
F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe
18 24 38-40
(M/C Dia 18-40)
F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe
19 24 48-50
(M/C Dia 42-48)
30/s-
20 P.K / Lacost 24 15
24/s
30/s-
21 P.K / Lacost 20 18
20/s
34/s-
22 P.K / Lacost 28 20
26/s
23 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) 24 25-30
24 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) 20 30-35
25 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 24 30-40
26 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 20 45-50
30/s-
27 1X1 Normal RIB 18 15
20/s
32/s-
28 1X1 Normal RIB 18 18
36/s
30/s-
29 Yarn Dyed (1X1) Stripe Rib 18 25-30
20/s
30/s-
30 Lycra RIB (Half Feeder) 18 25-30
26/s
30/s-
31 Lycra RIB (Full Feeder) 18 35-40
40/s
30/s-
32 (2X1) RIB 18 25-28
20/s
30/s-
33 (2X2) RIB 18 28-30
20/s
30/s-
34 (2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib 18 35
24/s
30/s-
35 (2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib 18 45
24/s
36 Plain Interlock 22/24 UP TO 18

14. 32/s
34/s-
37 Plain Interlock 22/24 20
40/s
40/s-
38 Plain Interlock 28 28-36
50/s
39 Interlock Feeder Stripe 24 35-40
40 Interlock H.F Ly. Attachement 24 35-40
30/s-
41 Interlock D / Needle 24 25-30
40/s
42 Mash/Flat Back Rib 60-80
Three Thread Fleece (French
43 18
Terry)
44 Cross Terry 20-22
Three Thread Lycra Fleece (
45 35-40
French Terry)
46 Two Thread Fleece 20-22
47 Two Thread Lycra Terry 35-40
48 Engineering Stripe (4 Color) S/J 24 100-110
49 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) S/J 24 120-130
50 Engineering Stripe 2Ply 20 130-150
51 Engineering Stripe 2Ply 16 160-170
Engineering Stripe (4 Color)
52 24 120-125
P.K/Lacost
Engineering Stripe (6 Color)
53 24 130-140
P.K/Lacost
Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (H/
54 24 220-230
Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K)
Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (F/
55 24 240-250
Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K)
56 Eng. Stripe Flat Back Rib 300
57 Eng. Stripe Terry 24/20 180-220
Engineering Stripe (6 Color)
58 170-180
RIB
Engineering Stripe (6 Color)
59 180-190
Interlock
Engineering Stripe (6 Color)
60 250-300
Lycra RIB / Interlock
Engineering Stripe 2X1 F.
61 350-400
Feeder Lycra Rib
Engineering Stripe 2X1 H.
62 350
Feeder Lycra Rib

15. 63 Pointal Rib (Normal) 70-100