The case for an accessible
“real” jewelry line
Geneva, May 2009

Bling is out. Luxury can no more be just equal
to excess
2

Today luxury is a function of prestige which is
a function of the awareness of the brand
3

Awareness it is very very costly to build up 4
and is (almost) the opposite of exclusivity

Possibly the ultimate commodity. How do you
5
differentiate your jewelry offering?

Possible approach: differentiate via boldness,
but of a sort to which it’s easy to connect
6

Define luxury as standing out, not as fitting in
7

Luxury is not the opposite of poverty. It is the
8
opposite of vulgarity.

The costliest is not the coolest 9

Which one will be the symbol of ultimate
coolness in 2015?
10

Some very prestigious
brands were built on
compelling affordability

5£ bag = instant icon?
12

“Affordable luxury shopping” concepts have
revolutionized retail

The third most respected brand in Germany

More and more rich women love this stuff 15

“Trade” metal value and craftsmanship
against affordability, glamour and design
High
“Traditional”
branded jewelry
Big
Affordable, “real”, problem:
jewelry how do
you pull
this up?
Low
Price “Visual” Value of Creativity, “Craft- Awareness of
glamour materials design manship” brand*
content content 16
* Hypothesis: new entry in market

Ride the statement jewelry trend
It's big. It's bold. It's sparkly. It's everywhere. It's This season (2007) let your accessories do all
statement jewelry. If there is one accessory to the talking with a show-stopping piece of
purchase this season, it is a bold statement statement jewellery
necklace Elle
Stylelist.com
Statement jewellery is this season's must-have.
2008 will be all about wearing less jewelry - but
Daily Mail
being bolder and more unique. The bigger
and bolder, the better . As long as you leave
the boring stuff at home who really cares? With bold accessories back in vogue, Chloé
Fashionising.com hits the mark with its statement jewellery line
Ellestyle
Statement jewellery has arisen to a new level
of significance for 2009 Standout jewels can really make an outfit
Fashionising.com Fabsugar.com
Just one piece of jewelry - one that adds a Statement jewellery is big this season
significant dose style to your ensemble - is Fashionclicks.co.uk
often a really good strategy
Foreverchic.blogspot.com
In jewellery big is beautiful. All you need is one
The Modern Opulence trend: jewels can never big statement
Stylefinder.com
be too big or too fabulous. Rock out with your
jewels - its a costume ball after all! 17
Net-a-porter.com

Hip = “keenly aware about the latest trends
and very stylish*”
Customers should be happy
”Real luxury”
to “trade” metal value and
perception depends
craftsmanship against
on brand awareness
hipness
and on peer
acceptance
“Luxuriou s, glamorous, creative,
jewelr y at an affordable price”
The desirability of the silver
pieces also depends on the
credibility of the price points of
A silver piece is “affordable”
the gold and diamonds
only if it provides a
versions, and on their
compelling customer offer
perception as “dream
(is perceived as hip “real”
jewellery”
jewelry)
18
* Merriam-Webster Dictionary of the English language

Tiffany: gold and diamond versions
“legitimize” accessible silver collection
19

Tiffany’s offers silver, gold and diamond-
encrusted bracelets…
7'000 €
Gold
Silver
6'000 €
5'000 €
4'000 €
3'000 €
2'000 €
1'000 €
0€
Return to Atlas 1837 Cushion Somerset Notes Signature Paloma Elsa Peretti Frank
Tiffany Picasso Gehry
Gold 4 4 4 1 10 2 2 5 30 5
Number of
references
Silver
20
14 4 25 6 16 4 11 17 36 19
Source: Tiffany.com , refers only to pieces sold on line

…priced using widely different “multiplier”
ratios
10 x
- - 1.3 - - 1.5 1.0 3.3 - 14.9 - - - 1.9 -
9x 0.5 3.5 0.5 2.2 5.1 0.4 0.4 0.6 2.2 1.4 8.9 2.4 4.5 0.8 1.1
0.4 1.7 0.2 0.9 2.0 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.4 0.2 1.5 0.4 0.7 0.1 0.1
8x
1.3 = Price of diamond version (€ x 1000)
7x
0.5 = Price of gold version (€ x 1000)
0.2 = Price of silver version (€ x 1000)
6x
5x
4x
3x
2x
1x
0x
Paloma Signature Elsa Peretti Frank Gehry Atlas charm Elsa Peretti Paloma 1887 lock
Picasso earrings Snake Fish pendant bracelet Aegean Picasso Calife pendant
Zellige necklace necklace bangle
earrings Frank Gehry Paloma Paloma Elsa Peretti Elsa Peretti Frank Gehry Frank Gehry
Fish bracelet Picasso Picasso Bean chain Open Heart Fish bangle Fish pendant
Loving Heart
bracelet
Loving Heart
pendant
chain
21
Source: Tiffany.com, refers only to pieces sold on line

20% of the pieces over the 500€ mark, and
most collections offering pieces < 300€
151 =100%
Elsa Peretti
90% Frank Gehry
Paloma
82%
Picasso
Signature
80% Somerset
1837
Return to Tiffany
70% My objective is to design Other Tiffany
according to one's
60% financial possibilities
Elsa Peretti
50%
40%
30%
20%
10%
500 €
0%
0€ 200 € 400 € 600 € 800 € 1'000 € 1'200 € 1'400 € 1'600 € 1'800 €
22
Source: Tiffany.com, refers only to pieces sold on line

Silver necklaces follow a similar pattern as
bracelets, with some pricier designer pieces
3'000 €
2'500 €
2'000 €
1'500 €
1'000 €
500 €
0€
Return to Atlas 1837 Cushion Somerset Notes Signature Paloma Elsa Peretti Frank
Tiffany Picasso Gehry
Number of
14 11 24 2 3 6 1 35 115 46
references
23
Source: Tiffany.com, refers only to pieces sold on line

Example: Tiffany by Elsa Perretti collection
Elsa Peretti Elsa Peretti
small Bean, large Open Heart,
16’’ chain, 18’’ chain,
pavé diamonds pavé diamonds set
set on platinum on platinum
3.280 € 14.900 €
Elsa Peretti Elsa Peretti Elsa Peretti Elsa Peretti
Aegean small Bean, large Open Snake necklace,
necklace, 16’’ chain, Heart, 20’’,
20’’, gold gold 30’’ chain, gold
8.940 € 630 € gold 5.150 €
1.400 €
Elsa Peretti Elsa Peretti Elsa Peretti small Elsa Peretti small
Aegean small Bean, large Open Snake necklace,
necklace, 16’’ chain, Heart, 20’’,
20’’, silver silver 30’’ chain, silver
1.470€ 130 € silver 1.970 €
240 €
24
Source: Tiffany.com, refers only to pieces sold on line

Example: Tiffany by Frank Gehry collection
Frank Gehry Frank Gehry
Fish pendant, Fish pendant,
16’’ chain, 16’’ chain,
diamonds set diamonds set on
on white gold white gold
1.950 € 970 €
Frank Gehry Frank Gehry Frank Gehry Frank Gehry
Fish bracelet, Fish pendant, Fish pendant, Fish bangle,
7.25’’, 16’’ chain, 16’’ chain, medium,
gold gold gold gold
3.550 € 801 € 443 € 2.400 €
Frank Gehry Frank Gehry Frank Gehry Frank Gehry
Fish bracelet, Fish pendant, Fish pendant, Fish bangle,
8.5’’, 16’’ chain, 16’’ chain, medium,
silver silver silver silver
1.700€ 120 € 95 € 390 €
25
Source: Tiffany.com, refers only to pieces sold on line

Example: Tiffany by Paloma Picasso
collection
Paloma Picasso
Loving Heart
pendant,
16’’ chain,
diamonds set
on platinum
1.500 €
Paloma Paloma Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso
Picasso Loving Picasso Loving Calife bangle, Zellige earrings,
Heart Heart gold small,
bracelet, 7’’, pendant, 4.470 € gold
gold 16’’ chain, 540 €
2.230 € gold
450 €
Paloma Paloma Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso
Picasso Loving Picasso Loving Calife bangle, Zellige earrings,
Heart Heart silver small,
bracelet, 7’’, pendant, 670 € silver
silver 16’’ chain, 350 €
900€ silver
110 €
26
Source: Tiffany.com, refers only to pieces sold on line

Example: Tiffany by Tiffany collections
Signature line Atlas line
earrings, bangle,
diamonds set on diamonds set on
white gold white gold
1.300 € 5400 €
Atlas line Signature line Atlas line 1887 line
charm earrings, bangle, lock pendant,
bracelet, 6,75’’, gold medium 16’’ chain,
gold 480 € gold gold
2.200 € 2.310 € 1110 €
Atlas line Signature line 1887 line
charm earrings, lock pendant,
bracelet, 6,75’’, silver 16’’ chain,
silver 220 € silver
410€ 140 €
27
Source: Tiffany.com, refers only to pieces sold on line