Spinning Systems

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    1:00 PM Innovations in Knitwear: Yarn Spinning David Sasso, Vice President of Sales, Buhler Yarns – Jefferson, GA, USA Learn the differences between open-end, ring-spun, compact, and air-jet spinning from a knitting industry veteran of 25 years. How do these spinning techniques impact price, torquing, pilling,and strength? What are some new technologies in the yarn market? Learn to ask the right questions of your suppliers to get the knit fabric to meet your expectations.

    The act or process of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarn.”

    * - Some manufacturers do 2 or 3 process drawing to achieve maximum blending, fiber parallel, and silver mass uniformity (CVm). Also, many companies have equipment to do a intimate blend. By this, the fibers are blended prior to carding.

    Compact spinning requires more maintenance and energythan conventional ring spun mainly because the fibers are compacted by using suction through the perforated drum. If the holes get clogged, then the yarn is not compacted. This would show up as a form of barre in the fabric. There are detection devices called clearers which can look for an increase of yarn hairiness and/or yarn diameter.

    There is another type spinning technology in the ring spun category which is called Siro. Explain the advantages of a siro.

    So many companiesstop short of

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    Spinning Systems - Presentation Transcript

    1. Spinning Systems
      Learning the differences
    2. What is spinning?
      The act or processing of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarns.
      Dictionary.com
    3. Most common types of spinning for apparel fabrics
      • Ring Spinning
      • Compact
      • Open End
      • Air jet
    4. Processing Table
      Conventional
      Fiber CP Syn
      Carding x x
      Drawing x x*
      Lap wind x
      Combing x
      Drawing x x
      Roving x x
      Spinning x x
      Winding x x
      Process 8 6
      Modern
      Fiber CP Syn
      Carding x x
      Drawing x x*
      Lap wind x
      Combing x
      Drawing x x
      Spinning x x
      Process 6 4
    5. Roving
      Yarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’s
      Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong
      Ring Spinning
    6. Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+
      Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong
      Roving
      air
      Perforated Drum
      Compact Spinning
    7. Yarn Structure
      Compact
      Ring Spun - Siro
      Ring Spun
    8. Ringspun yarn
      SwissCotton Royal
      Conventional Ring Spun Versus Siro
    9. Why Royal Spun?
      • Very good pilling values and durability (Pilling (Martindale) improved by 1.0 to 1.5 grades)
      • Less surface hairiness, clear mesh structure
      • Excellent evenness of knit fabrics
      • Less fiber accumulations knitted into the fabric
      • Luster
      • Great alternative to plied yarns
      • Less energy
      • Softer than plied yarns
      • More economical than plied yarns
    10. Modern systems are typical “Sliver to Yarn” system
      Less Processing !!!
      Refer to Slide 4
    11. Open End - Schlafhorst
    12. Open End - Rieter
    13. Typical yarn count range: 6’s to 30’s
      Fibers: (1) Fine (2) Strong
      (length is not as important as ring spinning)
      Rotor
      Yarn Package
      Feed Roll
      Sliver
      Condenser
      Transport
      Air Channel
      V
      df
      , M
      f
      Sliver
      Combing Roll
      Feed Plate
      Trash
      Open End Rotor Spinning
    14. Typical yarn count range: 20’s to 60’s
      Fibers: (1) Long (2) Strong
      (length is not as important as ring spinning)
      Main Draft
      Back Roller
      b
      Middle Roller
      Apron Pressure
      H
      Front Roller
      k
      N1
      N2
      Spinning Tension
      Wrapping
      Fibers
      Parallel Fibers
      Core of
      Murata Air Jet Spinning
    15. Open End Spinning
    16. Murata Vortex
    17. Rieter Air Jet
      Still very new in the market…
    18. Roving
      Spinning Efficiency and Endsdown:
      Key Fiber Properties by the order of importance:
      Main Draft
      Rotor
      Yarn Package
      Back Roller
      b
      Middle Roller
      Apron Pressure
      H
      Front Roller
      Feed Roll
      k
      N1
      Sliver
      Condenser
      Transport
      Air Channel
      V
      df
      N2
      Spinning Tension
      , M
      f
      Fibers
      Wrapping
      Sliver
      Short Fiber length
      Trash content
      Roving twist level
      Trash content
      Short Fiber content
      Sliver Uniformity
      Trash content
      Short Fiber Content
      Sliver Uniformity
      Combing Roll
      Parallel Fibers
      Core of
      Feed Plate
      Trash
      Fiber Quality Impact
    19. Energy Comparison
    20. Different Yarn Counts = Different Quality Levels
      Do all yarns within the same spinning system require the same type and quality of fibers?
    21. FQI Upland Cotton ELS Cotton
      Min 3.0 10.0
      Max 10.0 15.0
      FL = HVI Fiber Length (inch)
      FS = HVI Fiber Strength (g/tex)
      Mic = Micronaire
      Fiber Quality Index (FQI)
    22. Different Yarn Counts Require Different Fiber Indexes
    23. Fiber Quality Index vs. Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Rotor Spun Carded Yarns
    24. Fiber Quality Index VS Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Compact Combed Yarn
    25. Different Cotton can
      Result in substantial difference in Quality and Cost
      Is Cotton just Cotton or a Different Cotton can Make a World of Difference?
    26. Ranking By Category
    27. What questions should I ask?
      There are literally hundreds of variables in the spinning process which influence the outcome of fabric and garments.
    28. Fiber Related
      Where is the source of fiber?
      Do you have a relationship with the fiber producer and spinner?
      What are the parameters in which the spinner purchases the fiber?
      Does the fiber perform to expectations in relation to yarn count and fabric properties?
      How is my garment impacted by fiber cost?
    29. Machine Related
      Do you have a relationship with the machine manufacturer?
      What are the machine’s unique features?
      Does the manufacturer of the machines offer excellent service, adequate training, and able to respond quickly to parts and repair needs?
    30. Supply Chain Related
      Is the spinner willing to partner with you and your the supply chain to improve the quality and performance of fabrics?
      Same goes with the machinery manufacturer?
      Will your fabric supplier be open to the idea of you stating the spinner you want to use?
      There may be bonds which need to be broken for this to happen..
    31. Credits
      Dr. Yehia El-Mogahzy,Auburn University
      yehiae@eng.auburn.edu
      Rob Beal, Oerlikon
      rob.beals@oerlikon.com
      Mark Lingerfelt, Muratec
      mlingerfelt@muratec-usa.com
      Hans Rothen, Rieter
      Hans.rothen@rieter.com

    + David SassoDavid Sasso, 5 months ago

    custom

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    Comparisons of Spinning Systems

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