Straight Talk        AVLON
About Conditioning...

• Disco...
- Conditioning the Hair, Pan I con't.
       shampooing, weather and, to                        only on fine, limp hair or...

         Conditioning the Hair,
                 Part II
                   How conditioners can

               Conditioning the
                Hair, Part IV
           II shampoos and...
  Conditioning                                                                                     by ...
THE           SCIENCE OF HAIR CAREquot;,

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The Right Way to Condition Hair


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Four part series of articles dealing with the right way to condition hair.

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The Right Way to Condition Hair

  1. 1. Straight Talk AVLON About Conditioning... ~ • Discover the causes of hair damage and The following series of four articles were how to minimize it wrinen by Ali N. Syed, president and master ~ chemist of AvIan Indusuies, Inc. They • Uncover the facts about the different types originally appeared in ShopTdk magazine to of conditioners and what they do for hair<J~ - assist the professional hairstylisr in providing the very bese in hair care. .C:) This is the fust segment of an Avian • Learn the proper way to protect, repatr Professional Education Series, with other and create fabulous finishes! informative issues to follow. For easy reference, you may want to plare this brochure, and the others to come, in a notebook. The Right Way to treatments, especially over- processing, Condition Hair Part I cannot be reversed by any kind of iog the hair to some extent. conditioning by Ali N. Syed There are four basic causes of treatments. hair damage: mechanical (comb- However, such ing/styling), shampooing, weather damage can be minimized with CAUSES of HAIR DAMAGE and chemical treatments. Each of certain state-of-the-art conditioning We, as hair care professionals, these causes will be discussed fur- relaxers and permanem wave sys- are engaged in the art and science ther in future issues of ShopTalk. tems available in the marketplace. of beautifying hair; a notable pur- Hair care professionals, whether suit that has been around for cen- they're stylists or chemists, are PROPER CONDmONING turies. Modern techniques of hair always trying to find What is meant by beautification range from the sim- ways of eliminating or Damage caused ple acts of shampooing, combing at least minimizing the • the word quot;condition- and brushing, to chemically treat- effects of hair damage. by chemIcal ing'quot; Basically, con- ditioning means ing hair with relaxers, permanent The most effective treatments...can waves and/or h.3ir coloring. attempting to restore Whenever excessively curly hair :~~~aon~cal, Sh:~~:~~ not be reversed or maintain the ten- is modified to a relaxed (straight- ing and weather-related by... condition- sile strength of hair so that it can with- ened) or permanently waved state, hair damage is proper ing treatments. stand the effects of we gain better control of hair; but conditioning. Damage in the process, we end lip damag- caused by chemical combing, brushing, (Continued on reverse side.. .) I j SHOl'TALK/FEBRUARY/MARCH JOURNAL 1990
  2. 2. - Conditioning the Hair, Pan I con't. shampooing, weather and, to only on fine, limp hair or badly when they can do the most good. some extent, chemical treatments. damaged hair. Conditioners con- Even when the chemicals are It also involves the giving of cer- taining softening agents, humec- first rinsed from the hair, the pH tain cosmetic properties represen- tants and highly concentrated declines' only partially (down to tative of healthy hair. emollients, such as creme condi- about 10.0 with relaxers and 7.0 The following properties of hair tioners and moisturizers, should be with permanent waves). The hair are the goals and evidences of used on medium to coarse hair or is still alkaline and the cuticles effective conditioning: Ease of wet hair that is very dry. remain partially open. This repre- and dry combing; elimination of To achieve a maximized result, sents the second best opportunity static electricity; minimal hair loss sufficient amounts of conditioning to condition the hair once again during wet and dry combing; soft agents must penetrate deep into before completely closing the cuti- and silky feel; minimization of the cortex of the hair. This occurs cles with neutralizing shampoos or Conditioners porosity; extra only under one or a combination solutions. But remember, condi- sheen (due to the of the following circumstances: an tioning at these times can only be containing tight realignment elevated pH, heat and time. accomplished with systems that excessive of cuticles); ELEVATED pH provide such features. amounts 01' improved body, :J and enhanced The higher the pH level of hair, HEAT proteins... manageability. the more widley open are the cuti- As the temperature of hair is should Hair chemists cles. Although hair is in its most increased, the greater the possibili- have an ongoing vulnerable state under these con- used on fine, mission to formu- ty of conditioners penetrating the ditions, the opportunity for condi- cortex. As shown in Figure 1> pen- limp hair... late conditioners tioners to penetrate deep into the etration is much greater when hair that address these cortex layer of the hair is at its greatest. (When cuticles are is about 60-degrees centigrade hair properties. than when it is at the normal envi- It's important to keep in mind closed, it is difficult for condition- ronmental temperature of 25- that the conditioning needs of hair ers to penetrate in this way. If they degrees centigrade. A temperature fibers vary according to their tex- do, an extended amount of time is of 60-degrees centigrade is easily ture. For example, fine hair required.) When relaxers or permanent achieved at the medium setting of requires increased body, while an electric heat cap. coarse hair can use added soft- wave solutions are applied to hair, ness. It's apparent, then, that one the pH becomes very high (about 13.0 with relaxers and 9.5 with TIME type of conditioner cannot be used on all hair textures with the permanent waves). Some premium As the time of contact between best results. brands have protective and hair and the conditioner increases, Conditioners containing exces- restorative conditioners built right the degree of conditioner penetra- sive amounts of proteins, such as into the chemical systems so that tion into the cortex increases. As reconstructors, should be used they can go to work in the hair, Figure 2 illustrates, the condition- TUIPER.Tl:RE YS ,.,101::-''- ';-r=~~~~:;:;:==:;====:=il I Tlllt:'$.UlOl'i''''' iog action continues to be productive up to Of CO:quot;lJITlo;~.;n O.·c,O'quot;lJl·... ONF.K ADSOIUlED l~ TilE !lAIR ,HSOIWt:llINTm; U,l1I 25-30 minutes. After that time, absorption reaches its maximum. It is safe, therefore, to 11 conclude that condi- tioners should be left on the hair, with a plastic cap, for 25-30 minutes. The use of a hood dryer will quot; 'quot; .. quot; , quot; -------quot;,.quot;quot;~quot; , ~: enhance the condition- ing effect. TI.lE IN MI:-'·l:Tf.S ' Ali N. Sycd is president and mas- ter chemist, Avian Industries, Inc. FIGURE I FIGURE 2 SHOI'TALK/FEBRUARY/MARCH JOURNAL 1990 -2-
  3. 3. --------~'--------- Conditioning the Hair, Part II How conditioners can help alleviate combing- and weather-related damage. by Ali Syed, AvIan industries, inc. n Part One of quot;Conditioning the Hair,quot; four hairdress on dry hair, prior to styling. I basic causes of hair damage were mentioned. In Part Two of this series, we will discuss two of those causes-<combing and the weather-and what you can do as a stylist to prevent/eliminate these types of damage from occuring. You'll be able to gauge breakage by examining the hair left in the comb. Weather-Related Damage The heat and ultraviolet rays from the sun have devastating effects on the hair. The heat generated by Combing Damage the sun dries out hair fibers and ultraviolet (UV) rays Human hair is elastic but not perfectly so. Its elas- alter some of the cystine bonds, changing them to ticity allows it to sustain a certain degree of pulling cysteic acid bonds. This results in a weakening of the force exerted by hair fiber and a small degree of color bleaching. ...heat generated by combing (or To combat sun-related damages, advise your the sun dries out hair brushing). Many clients to stay out of the sun as much as possible or cover the hair with a silk scarf when outside. fibers.... times, the pulling Other remedies include using an oil moisturizer or or combing force applied during creme hairdress to help alleviate and replenish the regular and normal styling, stretches the hair beyond loss of moisture from the hair or UV-absorbing or sun- its limits causing breakage. screening prod- Combing force can be minimized by: using deep ucts formulated ...always use a penetrating conditioners to detangle the hair and especially for hair, wide-tooth comb, mend broken areas along the hairshaft, which can containing such particularly while hair snag on one another during combing; applying auxil- ingredients as para-amino ben- is wet.... Iary products, such as leave-in conditioners if funher detangling is needed to comb wet hair prior to blow zoic acid. Some oil drying or setting; always using a wide-tooth comb, moisturizers or cream hairdressings contain UV particularly while hair is wet and most vulnerable; absorbers. Ask your manufacturer if the brand you use gently combing through the hair section by section contains sunscreening agents. staning at the nape and proceeding upwards towards AH Syed is president and master chemist for AvIan Industries, the crown; and applying a dab of oil moisturizer or Bedford Park, IL. SHOPTALK/MAY JOURNAL 1990 -3-
  4. 4. --------------'-'------------- Conditioning the Hair, Part IV II shampoos and condition- ers are not created equally, by Ali Syed, Avian Industries, Inc. In Conditioning the Hair, Part Ill, we discussed 1. It must contain very mild detergents such as coco how conditioners can help repair chemical-related amphocarboxy propionate in order not to strip natural damage. In the last of this four-part series, we take an oils from the hair and especially from the scalp. indepth look at the various shampoos and condition- 2. It must minimize combing damage by effectively ers available and their effect on excessively curly hair. detangling the hair. Some say, quot;A shampoo is a shampoo is a shampoo.quot; 3. It must have a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 in order to This is definitely not true, particularly when it comes maintain the natural pH balance of the hair and scalp to excessively curly hair. Shampoos formulated for nat- which is in the same range. urally straight hair are typically very drying to exces- Detangling shampoos which are mild to the hair sively curly hair. A top quality shampoo for this hair and scalp and have a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 are there- type must possess the following qualities: fore the best choices for excessively curly hair. THE VARIOUS KINDS OF CONDITIONERS AND WHAT THEY DO FOR THE HAIR TYPE BENEFITS WHEN TO USE Creme Rinse Dcrangles; reduces static charge; adds shim: Not recommc::nded (Insufficient 2-(lives for excessively curly hair.) (TYPtCALLY DOES NOT REPAIR.) Instant Conditioners Saves time; (TYPICALLY DOES NOT When time is very limited. STRENGTHEN.) Deep Penetrating Dcrangks; strengthens; moisturizes; repairs; After non-conditioning chemical services; as maintenance Conditioner eliminates static charge. product following regular shampoo. ReconstruClor Contain fillers such as proteins to strengthen Use on damaged, chemically processed hair for 15-20 minutes. and repair split ends. (MAY HARDEN HAIR.) (If hair hardens, follow with deep conditioner immediately 10 soften and detangle hair. Some modern reconSlructors combine both reswrative and deep penetrating conditioners in one product. Such a product is recommended right after chemical services on damaged hair. Moisturizer Hydf2tes dry hair; cotrects moisture imbalances. On dry, brinle hair following shampoo. Leave·in Blow Detangles; eliminates static charge; adds shine; After shampoos; prior to blow drying 2nd curling. Drying Conditioner helps protect hair during thermal styling. Pre-Chemical Deep conditions hair before and during chemical Applied to hair before chemical services and left in. Chemicals Conditioner services; eliminates combing and shampoo are applied on top.. of them. (Le2ve-in) dam2ge. Adds shine; repairs. , After-Chemical Deep conditions hair after chemicals; eliminates Applied to hair after relaxer treatment or after color tre2tment Creme Conditioner relaxer traces; balances the pH of hair. for 5-10 minutes. hair ~.~rior to daily styling or whenever needed. * Finishing Conditioner (Hairdressings) ImpartS sheen and enhances manageability. Lubricates dry hair & scalp. Applied 10 , quot; SHOPTALK/SEPTEMBER 1990 • * This ~ectio'n was added since the ShopTalk printing. • < -5- .l',quot; . '~
  5. 5. ------------------- Conditioning by Ali Syed, Avton Industries, Inc. the Hair, Therefore, 15·20 percent of reduced (broken) cystine bonds never reform, Part III thus causing dryness to permanently waved hair. Permanent hair colors contain How Conditioners Can Help hydrogen peroxide as one of the active Repair Chemical-Related ingredients at 20-tO-40 volume concen- Damage tration. As the color of the hair is per- n quot;Conditioning the Hair, Part II,quot; cent loss in tensile strength. manently altered, cystine bonds are I we discussed how combing and the weather can damage the hair and how conditioners can help. Here, we take a look at chemicals, in part three of this four-part series. Permanent waves contain ammoni- um thioglycolalc as an active ingredient and have a pH of 9.0·9.5. (The pH level is attained when ammonium or monoethanolamine-MEA-is added changed to cysteic acid. This process is also extremely drying [0 the hair. In each of the chemical processes described above, it is imponant that hair be well conditioned before, during Relaxers contain sodium hydroxide, to the ammonium thioglycolate creme and after the procedure and that any potassium hydroxide, lithium hydrox- rearrangers or boosters during manu- existing damage be repaired. Auending ide or guanidine hydroxide as aClive facturing.) Ammonium thioglycolate to the hair in this way. while it's being ingredients. (To date, sodium hydrox- cremes reduce (or break) 20-40 per- chemically treated, will also help elimi- ide and guanidine hydroxide are thequot; cent of cystine bonds intO cysteine (or nate combing damage. Be sure to most effective slraigthening agents.) 1/2 cystine) bonds before the hair is select chemical systems that incorpo- Relaxers work by changing a third of rodded. During neutralization process, rate such complete conditioning fea- the cystine bonds into lanthionine the reduced bonds are oxidized with tures. bonds, and in the process, the hair the help of sodium bromate, reforming Ali Syed is president and master chemist of experiences a lwelve-to·founeen per- 80·85 percent of 1 he broken bonds. Avlon Industries, Inc., BcdforU Park, II.. SHOPTALK/JULY 1990 About The Author Ali N. Syed is a master chemist, possessing a wealth of experience in the formulation of hair care products. He has an impressive 22-year career as a research chemist, with a rotal of five published patents to his credit. Since 1984, Mr. Syed has served as president of Avlon Industries which is located in the Chicago metropolitan area. From that time, Avlon has remained solidly committed to the manufacture of superior-quality hair care products and to the exclusive sale of those products to salon professionals. Among the wide array of Avlon products are the state-of-the-art Affirm@ Conditioning Relaxer, Ferm@ Conditioning Curl & Body Perm and the KeraCare™ line of cleansing, conditioning and finishing products. With an abiding affinity for chemistry,Ali Syed personally manages each and every research & development project undertaken by Avlon's expert team of chemists. Equal to his regard for chemistry, is the respect he holds for the professional hairstylist. Always positive towards the ideas and opinions of stylists, Mr. Syed considers cosmetologists to be an important part of the Avlon company team. His on-going goal is to provide t~e very best products that advanced research and innovative thinking can offer, and always with an eye towards continual upgrading. ·4·
  6. 6. THE SCIENCE OF HAIR CAREquot;, All of these high performance WORLD-CLASS conditioners have been researched and formulated in the research laboratories of Avlon. Ask for them by name at CONDITIONING your local Avlon distributor. fel'll ~ .~ !'o_... (Uquot;~ , ,.~ . .... '1'quot; ... .00. PUll If Un ... iquot;l111 .. ...'..quot; - ~ quot;_quot;Ioio ~ From left to right: Affirme PROTECTQ@ -A pre·chemical conditioner. available exclusively as the initial slep of the Affirm!! Conditioning Relaxer Sysrem. POSITIVE LINK CONDITIONER-A pH-normalizing conditioner and cuticle se:al:ant; also inu~grallo the Affirm Relaxer SYSIem. 5-IN-t RECONSTRUCTOR-An ahernalive pH-normalizer in the Affirm Relaxer System. especially recommended for fine hair. Also recommended as a deep penewuing reconSltuctor for damaged hair. Ferml!l QUATERNlzER-lhe exclusive pre-chemical conditioning agent of the Ferm Conditioning Curl & Body Perm System. Applied at the beginning of each processing step to help proteci. repair. silken and impart shine to the hair. ANTI-DRYING CONDITIONER-A spray-on blend of rich humectants and condi· tioning agents that hydrates permed hair and protects it against moisture loss. KeraCare'· BLOW DRY LOTION-A leave-in treatment Ihat creales Straighter, more lustrous blow-dry styles with less mechanical damage. HUMECTO-An intensive moisrure treatment t~t re-hydrates hair and helps protect all hair types from moisture loss. HIGH-SHEEN GLOSSIFIER-A rich. super light finishing conditioner that produces a magnificent reflective gloss. CONDITIONING CREME HAIRDRESS-A light creamy finishing conditioner. formulated with high-quality natural oils to revitalize dull dry hair. SILKEN SEAL-A revolutionary new blow- drying complex thai seals cuticle surfaces and laminates each hairsttand for a silky smooth finish. OIL MOISTIJRIZER WITH JOJOBA OIL-A superb finishing conditioning lotion that moisturizes dry hair and scalp. Suitable for use as a hairdressing. thermal styling cdnditioner and for grooming short. natural hair. All articles are the exclusive property of Avlon Industries. Inc. and may not be duplicated except upoA.exp;~ss and written consent of Avlon. ©199L Avlon Industries. Inc .. Bedford Park. IL 6063B. (70B) 563-0363. Outside Illinois l-BOO-33-AVL?.N -6- f. t,~, ~,.i -.~ quot; ';