Shelf Life & Storage of Salon Products

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    Shelf Life & Storage of Salon Products - Presentation Transcript

    1. r.. . ,-\",,~ 1 r, -,... 'i 'LJ . e ,.-~i ~ d' • ., ,'\" ~ :1 ' ,) I ~ r , n. R -f' !T' .\\ \"f -!l w~_ r'\\ l' ' ~ -:' ,,'. \"i. ''''<1~~r.~ \\i ., 11 -It v I ~J 11(; ~J. . ...t l' • f· 'J {6 ~\" \" u ~tw nr . lJ V Gl HD (lj/~ D 0 by Ali Syed SALON 0 PRODUCTS ike many consumer products, nance of a products' basic character, L certain salon products are best an enduring uniformity of its blend used during a particular incre- and the preservation of a homoge- ment 'of time. This interval of neous state. An unstable formulation time is called shelf life, and it is many times evidenced by product j describes the period wherein a product \"separation\", whereby the ingredients can be used with maximum effective- become tinolen&d. -Both environ- ness and safety. Within this article, the ment and gravity are key factors in average shelf life of various salon stability. As a product ages, the envi· products will lie discussed. First, let's ronment (Le. temperature, exposure to tum our attention to the primary deter- air, etc.) may cause the product to sep- minants of shelf life. arate. Gravity also affects a product's life in that, over time, the weightiest ingredients (such as water) will segre- Factors Which Affect gate towards the bottom of a mixture, Product Shelf Life as others (like oils) are relegated to the upper pans. I. Product Development B. Ingredient Selection A. Stability Certain ingredients are by their very nature more stable than others. For The formulation of high-quality hair instance, animal proteins. particularly care products is both an art and a sci- when used in high volume, are less ence. As experienced hair care stable than some other types of condi- chemists well realize, the way a prod- tioning agents-because· of their pro- uct is formulated has a profound clivity for bacterial growth. And too, impact upon its shelf life. Expert emulsifiers, used in formulas contain- chemists strive to develop products that ing both oils and water, can be rela- meet or exceed the market standards in tively ineffective in ensuring oil/water i ,terms of performance, and always with miscibility, (a uniform blending of :! the objective of achieving product sta- these two components), over extended .SCANNED bility. Stability refers to the mainte- periods of time. SHOPTALK 27 NOVEMBER 1993 -_I!!~'~-~,-~ :~:'\":\"~':':-:----:-~~~._ .. ., . ,....----. ----.-. ---- .. ..,
    2. in this article, other methods of gauging PERMANENT WAVES Oxidation will occur to some extent prl)duct freshness will be offered. Shelf Life: 6 to 12 months Curl with any exposure to air, even with the simple aCt of opening the container in Boosters which the booster or rearranger is pack- The Average 6 to 12 months Rearrangers aged. More often, the process of oxi- Shelf Life of Salon 1 year Neutralizers dization is greatly accelerated by the Products bulk packaging typically used for pro- fessional perming products. By using large packaging, which is often SHAMPOOS demanded by stylists, the packaging is Shelf Life: 1 to 2 years Temperature op~ned and closed on multiple occa- sions as clients are serviced. Also, more air is left inside the containers, called Well formulated cleansing and lightly- \"head space\", with each successive use conditioning shampoos have relatively long shelf lives. Detangling shampoos, however, are more difficult to stabilize extremes... of the products. (For this reason, the perms sold in the general market, (for curling naturally straight hair), are from a product development standpoint because of the amount of conditioning agents utilized. The shelf life of detan- gling shampoos may therefore be as can cause a almost always packaged in single-use kits.) Due to the reactivity of ammoni- um thioglycolate to the air, compounded by the use of bulk packaging, the shelf limited as six months to a year. CONDITIONERS product to life of curl boosters and rearrangers is generally six to 12 months. Sh\"lf Life: 1 to 2 years After-shampoo conditioners will last a separate much Neutralizers, which do not contain the highly reactive ammonium thioglyco- late, are effective for up to a year. year or two. If the formula contains an unusually high amount of organic mate- rial such as animal protein, the life of sooner than it HAIRDRESSINGS Shelf Life: 2 years 100% the product may well be much less due Oils to an increased susceptibility to bacteri- ,·1 ~rowth problems. ordinarily 1 to 1 1/2 years Cremes The 100% oils are the hairdressings RELAXERS Shelf Life: 1 to 11/2 years (Sodium Hydroxide would. commonly referred to as \"greases\" or \"pomades.\" They have a relatively long shelf life. Cremes, however, (i.e. oil moisturizers and creme hairdressings), 2 years (Guanidine Hydroxide) are oil and water emulsions and have a shelf life of up to one and one-half Of the most widely used relaxers, those years. This is because over time, the oil The chemicals used to formulate perma- formulated with sodium hydroxide are will strive to the top of the emulsion, nent wave systems are very difficult to leaving the water at the bottom. the most challenging to formulate. An stabilize, primarily because the active improperly formulated relaxer can have Depending upon formulation, cremes ingredient, (ammonium thioglycolate), a shelf life of six months or less. Well- may even have a shelf life as short as readily reacts with air. This is called developed formulas will work effective- six months. \"oxidation>! and describes a process that h' for up to a year and a half. neutralizes or deteriorates the active chemicals contained in curl boosters FINISHING PRODUCTS Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are a lit- and rearrangers. Shelf Life: Up to 2 years tle easier to stabilize from a product development standpoint, and can be These two components of perm sys- Most of the products in this classifica- effectively used for up to two years. (If tems, which are critical to the tion have relatively extended shelf lives. the creme portion of the relaxer system straightening and curl formation of the Styling Gels maintain performance- seems a bit dry on the upper surface, do hair, can easily lose up to 15% to 20% integrity from one to two years, depend- not assume that the product is beyond of potency due to ordinary exposure to ing upon the formula. Setting Lotions, '\" shelf life. This is characteristic of the air. This potency loss significantly Oil Sheen Sprays, Holding Hair relaxers in this category, which contain slows down the chemical reaction of the Spray sand Laminates can last for two calcium hydroxide.) products. years or more. SHOPTALK 29 NOVEMBER 1993 COI/finued Oil page 70
    3. 1 - PRODUCTS SALON store products near windows. ...a product ContifluedJrom page 27 HAIR COLORINGS Some Tell Tale Signs of Shelf Life Expiration thafis beyond Shelf Life: 1 to 11/2 years In a similar fashion to that described for The following properties will signal that a product is beyond its shelf life: its shelf life permanent wave products, the active - Product Separation will not It is not - Foul Odor (likely caused by bacterial contamination) perform as agood idea - Loss of Product Viscosity (product becomes much thinner) effectively to mix - Build up of Viscosity (product becomes much thicker) as it did together - Rancid Odor (characteristic of natur- al oils that have been exposed to air and/or sunlight for extended periods) initially.. different What if a Product is Used product, which is beyond its shelf life, is Past its Shelf Life? products... At best, a product that is beyond its when bacterial growth has occurred. Should a contaminated prod- uct, wherein the preservative system has to concoct shelf life will not perform as effective- ly as it did initially. Product applica- tion may be impaired and the way it broken down, be inadvertently rinsed. into a client's eyes, severe infection and/or impairment may'r.esult. one's own reacts to the hair may very well be hindered. At worst, the product could cause harm to a client. In the case of How is a Professional Cosmetologist to Know? special an unstable or separated sodium hydroxide relaxer, the result will either be ineffective straightening or extreme Other than being on the lookout for the formula. causticity. This is because once a relaxer separates, the oils rise to the top and the water, containing most of \"tell-tale\" signs listed above, there is really no good way for a cosmetologist to know precisely the age of a product the sodium hydroxide, descends to the and its shelf life as estimated by the chemicals in many hair colorings are manufacturer. Manufacturers normally bottom of the jar. When the stylist highly sensitive to the air. With oxidiza- code each product so that they will applies the upper portion of the mix- tion, the ability of the color product to know precisely when it was manufac- ture, the hair will be treated with the deposit within the hair shaft is impaired. tured. and via their scientific tests, man- most impotent part of the relaxer. To help prevent oxidization and the ufacturers can also predict the shelf When the lower portions in the jar are resultant potency loss, many such prod- lives of their various products. (By law, used, the relaxer is much too strong ucts are packaged in single-use bottles. companies must also retain samples of and will likely damage the hair and bum the scalp. Stylists must not think each batch of product; which they pro- Proper Product Storage that merely mixing the contents of a duce for three years, in order to track the separated relaxer will again stabilize impact of product aging within a con- the formula because it won't. Relaxers trolled environment.) Should you have a Generally, salon products should be : stored at room temperature, away from must be blended at a temperature of 80 specific question regarding the shelf life C under scientifically-controlled con- of a certain product, contacting the man- heat, direct sunlight and extreme cold. 'I Storage of products in refrigerators is ditions in order to get a stable mixture. ufacturer may be the best avenue to pur- sue. not recommended and products should never be placed in a freezer. .To pr9t~£! '. Another instance in which a client Ali Sycd is president and master chemisl of Avlon products from excessive sunlight and may actually be harmed by the use of Industries. Bedford Park, IL , \" SHOPTALK 70 NOVEMBER 1993 I 1 ,. ......! :J.:.-r!:

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