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Beauty sutra
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Beauty sutra

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An overview of skincare

An overview of skincare

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  • hi dipayan.. extremely insightful. thanks for uploading on slideshare
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  • Hi Dipayan, very comprehensive study I must say. Would you mind sharing an open file through a link ? I need some research material for a management class that I would be attending as a guest lecturer. Thanks
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  • 1. BEAUTY SUTRATHE ASSIMILATED BIBLE FORBEAUTY MARKETERS
  • 2. IntroductionA product of a mega workshop combining ‘finger on the pulse’ externalspeakers and creative syndicates, uncovering many interesting insightsand 3 key learnings for any multi-brand marketer prospecting the skincare playing fieldSKIN BRANDS NEED TO OPERATE AT THE HEART OF THE BEAUTYBUSINESS IN INDIA, RATHER THAN BEING PROBLEM-SOLVINGPERSONAL CARE BRANDSEACH BRAND NEEDS TO EXPRESS A UNIQUE AND RELEVANT THEORY OFBEAUTY THROUGH ITS ADVERTISING, PRODUCT OFFERINGS ANDPACKAGINGTHE EQUITIES OF BRANDS MUST NOT GET BUNCHED TOGETHER, THEYNEED TO BE SHARPENED AND KEPT APART
  • 3. Facts to consider• Women want to be financially independent• Average marriage age of women and men is moving upwards• Beauty does not end with marriage and children.• Beauty market is not just products in bottles and jars, it is about salons and health clubs also• Beauty in India today is real time - no time lag
  • 4. Learnings from Beauty Sutra• Distinct shift from looking good for others to enhancing self worth. E.g.. matrimonials• Shift from beauty based on physical dimensions to beauty defined by personality. E.g.. Miss World• Expanding band of beauty icons - E.g. film stars & VJ’s• Increasing convergence of dermatology and cosmetology.
  • 5. How much of these facts and learnings arereflected in brand communication?
  • 6. Dissecting offerings• Attribute - What does the product contain?• Benefit - What does it do to skin?• Value - How does it make me feel?
  • 7. Are we in a time warp?• A bulk of communication with consumers is rooted in the attribute stage• Rational Vs Emotional link with consumers• However, beauty is not a rational measure for most consumers.
  • 8. Fair & Lovely - Core• 1996 • 2003 problem solving – Transformation hard working – Confident value for money – Romantic
  • 9. FAIR & LOVELYDefinition of beauty stimulus
  • 10. Pond’s Core• 2000 • 2003 – nature + science – Expertise – femininity – Femininity – purity – Enhancement – Pond’s lettering, logo, – Accessible – graphics (bud) – Joy – white, pink, blue – skin maintenance
  • 11. POND’SDefinition of beauty stimulus
  • 12. Vaseline Core• 2000 • 2003 – removes dryness – Wholesome – protects skin – Energetic – softens skin, relief – Vital – do good values – Pure – trust, caring, satisfaction – natural ingredients
  • 13. VASELINEDefinition of beauty stimulus
  • 14. Pears Core• 1998 • 2003 glycerin – Transparency transparency – Purity honesty – Natural natural – Healthy purity – Vibrant trustworthy – Trustworthy traditional
  • 15. PEARSDefinition of beauty stimulus
  • 16. Lakmé Core• 2000 • 2003 – trustworthy – Indian – reliable – Mystique – Indian – Glamour – mature – Sensual – suited to Indian skin – In-control – Innovation
  • 17. LAKMÉDefinition of beauty stimulus
  • 18. Staying ahead of the pack• A Lux soap is a beauty bar• A Coconut oil is a beauty enhancer• A Shampoo is about transformation – All these categories use skin as a benchmark to define beauty
  • 19. Future beauty brands• Shopping and product usage have to be transformed into experiences. E.g L’Oreal• Transactions are transformed into relationships. E.g LBS• Brands are transformed into trusted friends
  • 20. The Arena of Beauty in India Then & Now
  • 21. This Presentation• Expresses an opinion that is essentially subjective• Looks at the notion of beauty as it has developed over time• Uses ‘evidence’ from a variety of sources from life around us
  • 22. Overall Perspective• Questioning the implicit ‘evolutionist’ view• Identifying existent ‘codes’ that govern behaviour• Mapping change along these codes
  • 23. Beauty: Big changes• Attire• Beauty Pageants• Lipsticks, beauty parlours• Advertising• Heroines in movies (heroes too)
  • 24. Beauty…Then• A rich tradition• The idea of shringar• Elaborate science
  • 25. Shringar Rasa Mudra Kamasutra Gestures Indian Art Courtesans Megha Kesha Solah Singar Role Symbols Outside Models Everyday Life Rituals Jasmine Mrignayani The Elaborate Inaccessible Idealised Swapna Bride Ritualisation Perfection Benchmarks Sundari Core Value Kajal GajgaminiSandalwood Not for common people Goddess Henna Padmini Royalty Stories of Beauty And The Burden of Valour Beauty
  • 26. Social Context: Overall• A society driven by restraint• Strongly hierarchical• Control over instinct• “Self-co-ercing and self-disciplining”• Implicit assumption of no progress
  • 27. Social Context : Women• Need to control the potentially destructive sexuality of women• Elaborate rules governing behaviour• Archetypal roles shaping behaviour• Primacy of motherhood• ‘Low shelf life as ornamental beings, high as functional objects’
  • 28. Key Devices• The Arranged Marriage• Primacy of Motherhood• Distance from husband (The Ay-Jee Syndrome)• Women myths/depictions
  • 29. Overall• Low transactability of beauty• Exalted, idealised distancing• Emphasis on feminine duty• Beauty inner-directed• Outlet for women through ritualised expression
  • 30. Beauty Codes• The primacy of the face• Features in the face: eyes, hair• Body shape rounded/hourglass• Hair signifies instinct: open hair signifying loss of control(sexual, anger)• Skin signifying class (rough/smooth)
  • 31. The Changes• Overall freeing of restraint• Education• Political equations within family• Expanding roles• Emerging self-confidence• Sense of control over own domain• Legitimacy of personal needs• Gradual freeing of the Mating market
  • 32. Freeing of the Mating Market• Increasing importance of individual• Greater acceptance of the idea of mingling between the sexes• Expansion rather than overthrow of tradition• “Arranged love marriage”• Not yet a free market
  • 33. No violation of traditional codes• Expanding tradition rather than challenging it
  • 34. The Result• Increasing legitimacy of beauty• Comfortable sitting together of this desire with traditional codes• Inner-Outer continuum• Big changes, no real changes
  • 35. Beauty: The Changes• An active view – Hair that is bouncy – Blurring of shampoo/hair-oil lines• Real beauty not just symbolic – Regular parlour visits – ‘Lighter’ bridal make-up• Not just inner directed – The importance of grooming – The social cost of not looking good
  • 36. Beauty: The Changes• The importance of female peer groups – female admiration rather than male admiration – daily female discussion• Alignment with health/hygiene rather than sexuality
  • 37. Beauty today: Still distanced from sexuality• Barring a very small segment, beauty still inner-directed in this area• The Mating Market not yet a completely free one• Overt sexual signaling an uncomfortable idea• Provocative dressing attributed to fashion rather than enhancement of sex appeal
  • 38. Some Indices: Popular Culture• The heroine as vamp, without being one• Male beauty• Absence of shyness as badge of femininity• Depictions in advertising
  • 39. And yet...• No essential change in the archetypes – Biwi no 1 – DDLJ – KKHH: Kajol before and after• ‘Artful Conformity’ to traditional rituals: DDLJ, HDJPK• Modernity is tradition with waxed legs?
  • 40. Some Indices: Matrimonial Advertising• An Analysis of matrimonial advertising in the Times of India and The Hindustan Times, Delhi editions from 1967 to 1997.• A sample of 3200 matrimonial ads chosen on the basis of random sampling, forming snapshots separated by ten-yearly intervals, starting from 1967.
  • 41. Female beauty is on the rise...• The importance given to beauty in the last two decades has been on the rise• % mentions 1967 1977 1987 1997 38 49 55 63 Beauty refers to the aggregate of the raw scores of “beautiful, good looking, attractive, and pretty”
  • 42. …In a very specific way 1967 1977 1987 1997Beautiful 34 37 40 46Fair 1 15 22 33Tall/Height 0 36 53 56Slim 1 15 27 26
  • 43. An example 67 77 87 97I am a fair girl 2 20 35 44I want a fair girl 1 11 9 22• Increasing specificity and range of requirements mentioned nowadays, as outlined earlier, whereas in the 60’s fairness would possibly be subsumed under “beautiful”.
  • 44. An example 67 77 87 97 My height is... 0 60 90 93I want a tall girl 1 12 16 20Photographs 1967 1977 1987 1997 0 1 5 28
  • 45. Beauty: Not the sole factor• Societal attributes have retained their importance over the time period of the study, with high and relatively static scores consistently. 1967 1977 1987 1997Caste 42 44 47 44Family 31 23 36 33Region 13 17 21 19
  • 46. Education/Employment 67 77 87 97I am an educated girl 82 84 80 57I want an educated girl 31 28 20 38I am professionally qualif. 8 11 12 41I want a professionally qualif. 12 16 14 28• Shift from mere education to qualification signifying earning capacity
  • 47. Education/Employment• Employment 67 77 87 97I am a working girl 22 29 36 44I want a working girl 7 17 15 15
  • 48. The paradox 67 77 87 97Homely+EducatedI want a girl 37 34 35 54Working+Prof.Qual.I want a girl 15 33 29 43Horoscope 0 1 3 19
  • 49. Overall• Rising importance of beauty• Less exalted, more functional• Reflected in the increasing specificity of requirements• Personality dimension not really important at this stage• Change in degree, not in paradigm
  • 50. Index: Hindi Film Lyrics• Content analysis of 15oo movie songs from 1950• Decade by decade analysis
  • 51. Overall• Rising importance of beauty• Less exalted, more functional• A sense of access• A positive rather than negative relationship• Sexual motive not very strong• Romance within marriage highly desirable
  • 52. Beauty today• Moving from the Inner to the Outer World• From the ‘Ritual’ to the ‘Real’• Change continuous but rapid• Relatively painless blend of tradition with modernity
  • 53. Beauty Skin Deep Indian and International trends
  • 54. What affects ‘Aging’• Physiological Factors like Genetics, Hormones etc...• Environmental Factors like pollution, UV rays etc...
  • 55. Changes in skin as we age...• With age… – Skin becomes drier – Patchiness and pigmentation due to unequal distribution of melanin in the layers of skin – Layers of skin become thinner – Ability of skin cells to regenerate lowers
  • 56. Preventive Measures• Intrinsic Factors • Extrinsic Factors – Genetic (some people – Stress have genetically – Diet acquired good skin, – Exercise which has greater resistance to the – Nutritional aging process) supplements – Water – Sleep – Environment
  • 57. Symptoms of stress• Tension Headaches• Insomnia• Mood swings• Tightening of neck muscles• Lack of concentration
  • 58. Prevention of aging by managing External Factors• Exercise – Yoga – Aerobics• Diet – Proper Breakfast is very important – No. of small meals spaced through the day rather than 2 big meals – Lots of fruits and vegetables
  • 59. Prevention of aging by managing External Factors• Nutritional supplements - A must after 40... – Vitamin capsules – Minerals• Water - very important to cleanse the system – Must drink enough water in the morning to clean the gut
  • 60. If not prevention… Try ‘Age Erasers’• Local Age erasers (Cosmoceutical) – Sun - Screen lotions - to protect from UVA and UVB – Moisturising lotions - which help skin to retain moisture, and hence prevent drying of skin – Tretenoin - The retenoids which peel off the dead skin and bring to top, a younger looking skin – Peels - Glycolic and Chemical peels
  • 61. If not prevention… Try ‘Age Erasers’• Systemic (Anti-oxidants) – Vitamins A, C and E – Minerals like Zinc, Copper, Magnesium and Manganese which act as anti-oxidants and fight the free-radicals that cause premature aging of skin
  • 62. If not prevention… Try ‘Age Erasers’• Dermato- Surgical (Ionotophoresis) – Face Lifting – Toning – Intradermal injections - to lift the Dermis of the desired part of skin – Autologus Fat – Transfers – Lasers – Botox injections - a toxin injected to eradicate the ‘Crow’s Feet’ near the eyes and ‘Frown lines’
  • 63. Conclusion…• The need for specialized products to help satisfy specific beauty needs, has originated due to the changing lifestyles, as well as the harsh environmental changes.• Consumer today is more aware of her beauty needs, and is more open to trying out the specialized products.
  • 64. Indian Beauty Aspirations Beauty for self & Beauty aspired
  • 65. Historical definitions of Beauty• Beauty is being as close as possible to certain parameters of outward appearance, regarded as perfect• We have always been enamoured by what is absent in us and make every effort to acquire it. The same is true of all beauty needs too.
  • 66. Changing Face of Beauty• 50s - Overdressed, Heavily jeweled, looking beautiful was a domain of the upper class.• 60s and 70s - Miss India became the launching pad for Indian beauties, Mehr Castellino and Rita Faria set the trends, modeling taken as a hobby, or at best- a part time profession.• Women from army background at the forefront of Beauty Pageants.
  • 67. Changing Face of Beauty• 80s - Early 90s - Modelling became a serious profession, with enough glamour and money associated with it.• With Juhi Chawla, Sangeeta Bijlani, Sonu Walia and other Miss India winners entering Bollywood, Films come up as yet another Career option for Miss India• ‘Miss India’ became the ultimate destination of a whole generation of women.
  • 68. Changing Face of Beauty• 1994 onwards - With the international triumphs of Sushmita, Aishwarya, Diana, Manpreet, Yukta, Lara, Priyanka and Diya, the Indian beauty scene is destined for larger glory in the times to come. – Increased participation in beauty pageants by the girls from Middle and Lower-Middle class.
  • 69. Historical Beauty Products• Cold Creams• Moisturizers• Sunscreens• Face Washes
  • 70. The “Beauty Effect”• Beauty gives every person a complex - either an inferiority complex or a superiority complex. Nobody can take beauty as ‘Just another thing to have’.• Beauty is given more importance than any other external or internal quality of a person.
  • 71. Indian Beauty Aspirations Beauty for self & Beauty aspired
  • 72. Historical definitions of Beauty• Beauty is being as close as possible to certain parameters of outward appearance, regarded as perfect• We have always been enamoured by what is absent in us and make every effort to acquire it. The same is true of all beauty needs too.
  • 73. Changing Face of Beauty• 50s - Overdressed, Heavily jeweled, looking beautiful was a domain of the upper class.• 60s and 70s - Miss India became the launching pad for Indian beauties, Mehr Castellino and Rita Faria set the trends, modeling taken as a hobby, or at best- a part time profession.• Women from army background at the forefront of Beauty Pageants.
  • 74. Changing Face of Beauty• 80s - Early 90s - Modelling became a serious profession, with enough glamour and money associated with it.• With Juhi Chawla, Sangeeta Bijlani, Sonu Walia and other Miss India winners entering Bollywood, Films come up as yet another Career option for Miss India• ‘Miss India’ became the ultimate destination of a whole generation of women.
  • 75. Changing Face of Beauty• 1994 onwards - With the international triumphs of Sushmita, Aishwarya, Diana, Manpreet, Yukta, Lara, Priyanka and Diya, the Indian beauty scene is destined for larger glory in the times to come. – Increased participation in beauty pageants by the girls from Middle and Lower-Middle class.
  • 76. Historical Beauty Products• Cold Creams• Moisturizers• Sunscreens• Face Washes
  • 77. The “Beauty Effect”• Beauty gives every person a complex - either an inferiority complex or a superiority complex. Nobody can take beauty as ‘Just another thing to have’.• Beauty is given more importance than any other external or internal quality of a person.
  • 78. The “Beauty Effect”• Women are more beauty conscious than men, and make a continuous effort to look better than what they are.• Beautiful women are more likely to get an unfair advantage in every walk of life… from interviews to careers to finding matches.
  • 79. The Changing Paradigm (contemporary definitions of beauty)• ‘Beauty is not just Skin Deep’ - Beauty also consist of other qualities in a woman.• Inner beauty is gaining importance and is due to become more important than the ‘looks’ of a woman.
  • 80. The Changing Paradigm (contemporary definitions of beauty)• The emphasis is now on feeling confident - and one way of doing that is by looking your best.• Being beautiful is no longer the domain of young women. 90s have brought forward a whole new generation of working women, and glamourous moms who want to keep on looking young.
  • 81. Effect of new definitions of beauty in the Market• Focus has shifted from General beauty products, like Moisturisers and Fairness creams to specialized beauty products like Retenoids, Night creams and peels.• Products are differentiated according to user’s age, the part of the skin they affect, fairness, sun protection, cleansing etc...
  • 82. Result - A baffled consumer• More products promising similar benefits• Less product loyalty by consumer• Frequent switching of products• Confused and unsatisfied consumer
  • 83. Need of the Hour• Companies to come up with well differentiated products having specific benefits.• Need to educate the consumer on their beauty needs, and what products are available in the market to satisfy that need.• Women magazines to come forward and act as catalysts for information disbursement.
  • 84. Indian notion of beauty more holistic than western definitions : inner and outer beauty physical and spiritual natural, inborn vs. acquired beyond age balanced beauty mystique, aura vs. blatant beauty/sensuality beauty = health (inner and outer)
  • 85. Skin colour (fair, glowing)Hair (thick, lustrous and healthy black)Figure (gaining importance across age groups)Features (sharp, well defined)Texture of the skinGrooming (gaining in importance)Confidence (expressiveness, intelligence,socialibility)
  • 86. 80’s 2000fairness a key determination skin appearance, texture hasglamour and mystique given gained in importanceimportance casual glamour, natural beauty,inward and less expressive expressive, vital beauty gainingbeauty (self) greater currencydependent on male evaluation silhouette a major pre-less stringent norms for occupationphysique and grooming less dependent on malewestern influence/icons affirmationaspirational more stringent norms ofinherent beauty (natural grooming (body confidence)features, colour, skin/hair more experimentative andquality texture) open to new expressions of beauty
  • 87. 2000sensuality and self discovery keyto feeling and looking goodglamour derived from clothes (ethnic, western) lifestyle (accessories, grooming) occupation (VJs)confidence redefined to spell achievement ambition control sexual attractiveness affluence
  • 88. ASPIRATIONAL EXPRESSIVE MYSTIQUE/GLAMOUR SENSUALITY ATTRACTIVENESS BEAUTYATTAINABLE LESS EXPRESSIVE
  • 89. SemanticsBeauty inborn linked to fairness, natural attributes inward, less expressive of self circumscribed by social norms traditional construct linked to male evaluation/affirmation innocent, self effacing, virginal, unawakened potentiality lacks definition, distinctive identity mass NEHA
  • 90. SemanticsAttractiveness can be acquired - exuberance, vitality - health, vibrance - confidence - grooming - behaviour, charm linked to youthfulness more self projecting and expressive balance between inner and outer beauty casual, less contrived accessible needs male and others’ affirmation continues to be socially circumscribed amorphously defined JUHI
  • 91. SemanticsSensuality in touch with own identity and needs expressive, captivating beauty not circumscribed by traditional norms awakened sexuality beyond youthfulness dynamic, power led femininity path breaking, unusual, distinctive individualistic acquired beauty : - body language, mannerisms, speech - grooming - confidence - accessories - lifestyle - led - total body MALAIKA
  • 92. SemanticsGlamour/Mystique timeless, enduring beauty harmony between self and externalities signature, distinctive identity iconic charismatic balance of natural assets and enhancement expressive and wholly feminine aspirational, not easily attainable distinctive identity though not always dissonant with societal norms REKHA, AISHWARYA, SHYAMOLIE
  • 93. EXPRESSIVE • SENSUALITY • GLAMOUR • MYSTIQUE (balance) • GLAMOUR (achievement)INDIVIDUALISTIC SOCIO-CENTRIC • ATTRACTIVENESS • BEAUTY CONTAINED
  • 94. Teens Young Adults Adults active, energetic, expressive harmony between : vivacious vivacious, lifestyle and - inner and outer casual glamour achievement oriented - physical and spiritual attractiveness glamour glamour and mystique radiance sensuous radiance youthful radiance confidence confidence, deportment confidence, success beauty standards not youthful synthesis of Indian and stringent : cross cultural appeal; not western beauty - skin colour necessarily Indianised beauty standards - features stringent beauty standards becoming more - hair set by youth : expansive : transformed beauty - skin colour - acceptance of darker - hair colour - hair skin colour - hair style - figure - different types of hair - features styles - grooming - features transformed beauty : untampered beauty - hair colouring - body piercing - hair styles
  • 95. Rural UrbanFair skin Fair skin but compromise ifHealth other attributes areFilm star led beauty outstandingstandards FigureUrban standards Glamour, contrived beauty - confidence Grooming - sociability Confidence - casual style Sociability Success, achievement
  • 96. A1+ A/B C/D/E Individualistic, Individualistic but within Conforms to social distinctive societal norms standards Led by identity and Synthesis of western with Indian beauty expression of self Indian More traditional glamour Cross cultural appeal Glamorous though icons changing Glamour but without Stringent definition through films, TV artifice - skin colour Tradition norms of More expansive in - features beauty : denfinition - hair - skin colour - skin colour not as Grooming and figure - hair significant becoming important - features - hair in different - confidence colours - features not necessarily well defined high emphasis on - figure - grooming - skin texture
  • 97. COSMETICS FACE SKINCARE PRODUCTSFace powder Fairness FAL, Vicco, FaireverFoundation Blemish free Moisturising lotion,Blushers Radiant cleansing lotion Smooth, taut, young Face washLipstick Even complexionEye make-up/liners Sunscreen lotion Balanced oiliness Shampoo (enriched/ HAIRColourants Dark Healthy natural ingredient) Thick Lustrous Shikakai Bouncy Problem free Henna Conditioner HANDS AND FEET Vaseline PJ Nail Krack cream enamel Uncracked Soft Unlined Without callouses BODY SKIN Soft Body lotion Smooth Massage oil Hair free
  • 98. Teens/young adults AdultsProblem-free skin Ageless beautySmooth, blemish free Taut fresh, unwrinked skinFair Protection from sun tan,Glowing age spots, frecklesClean, non-oily skin RadianceSlim figure Firm figureBeautiful hands/feet Unlined, not crackedHairless face/body hands/feet No hair loss Sexual attractiveness
  • 99. Beauty parloursPeersGlossiesModels, VJs, filmstarsBeauty pageantsBrand advertisingFamily traditions/practices
  • 100. Teenagers/young Adults ExamplesadultsBeauty Queens Filmstars AishwaryaModels Celebrities Lara DuttaVJs Achievers MalaikaFilmstars Bipasha Basu Karishma Arundhati Roy Shobha De
  • 101. Expressive, sensual beautyIndian glamourParticipating in two worlds of glamourLess inhibitions about colour cosmeticsIncreasing emphasis on figure and slimnessIncreasing emphasis on hand/feet beautyExposure of body parts higherBalance between inner and outer beauty desiredProtection of skin basis to preserving skin beautyMore experimentation with hair enhancement/beautification
  • 102. in ‘quest’ ofbeautyA Mass Market Perspective
  • 103. Who is SheWives & daughters of men in : small trade / clerical occupation /skilled labour salesman watchman auto-drivers masons vegetable sellers supervisor factory workers tailor drivers
  • 104. Who is SheStays in …….. Patiala Meerut Rajkot Varanasi Coimbatore Guwahati Calcutta Hyderabad Nagpur Delhi Lucknow
  • 105. Who is She• Housewives or daughters marking time to marriage• Time largely spent at home involved in household chores• Supplement income through odd jobs -e.g. papad making• Little time for leisure or indulgence• Low educational levels due to early marriage or financial constraints• Family pressure and restraints rule her life
  • 106. Her Role... North as a wife : •status symbol, •attract/please their men East •Nurturer as an individual: West •House Manager •recognition upkeeper of - all household chores •‘pampering self’social network •Looking after kids •importance of sensuality South individual : widening of the mind
  • 107. A Day in Her Life• Time largely spent on household chores and odd jobs to supplement income• Colleges /classes attended by young women• Leisure time in the afternoons to watch TV, read magazines, knit, tailor• Spruce up in the evening to look good and receive husband• Time spent with friends by younger women• Nights devoted to serving dinner and completing house work
  • 108. Who is SheA person with• limited individuality and empowerment• limited social network• identity and self esteem dependant on societal approval
  • 109. Motivations to Looking Beautiful in laws parents husband SOCIAL APPRECIATION friends / children relatives Feel good & increases confidencehigh self esteem & enhance social acceptance
  • 110. Role of Grooming• Integral to her life• Extent varies by : – occasion – lifestage – socio-cultural norms/ expectations• Color cosmetics enhance looks …. usage proportional to social interaction
  • 111. Grooming Regime salwar kameez/ sari At Home Basic Minimum bindi/ sindoor talcum kajalCasual clean salwar kameez/ Attract Minimum sari(shopping) Male Attention bindis/ sindoorouting cream, no oil on hair kajalSpecial Occasions Social Standing & heavy/ new sari(weddings, Status jewellery, matchingfestivals, karva accessorieschauth) sindoor/ mehndi lipstick/ nail polish/ eyeliner face powder, cream
  • 112. Concept of Beauty•good features •educated, intelligent•fair •smart, command respect + •soft, delicate, graceful,•long,neat hair homely, pleasing•slim,good figure •look good - simple make up to enhance Beauty is multi dimensional however within society norms But Beauty is All for Others
  • 113. Concept of Beauty North •Emphasis on physical features & adornment •Cosmetics integral to grooming especially for married women and more socially acceptable West East•physically fit •focus on sensuality, •fashionable glamour, makeup , style •educated •spend more time on self •not too loud South •emphasis on eyes •jewellery & saris •multi faceted personality / emphasis on talents (e.g music)
  • 114. Concept of Beauty Mass Market Metro upmarket Woman woman Look beautiful + Feel beautiful (confidence /intelligence/achievement) •Beauty for Others •Beauty for Self / Individualistic (only significant others) •Global Beauty Vision •Indian Beauty Vision •Fashion Embellishments to add surprise • Embellishments to add an element and boldness (e.g. body tattoos)of fashion and modernity (stylised bindis) • All “feel beautiful “ aspects strictly within social norms
  • 115. Attitude to BeautyAGE GROUP NEED / EXPRESSION OF BEAUTY< 18 years Medium Need -Budding awareness of beauty V. Low Expression -Parental Dictat /Social Constraints19-24 years High Need -Marriageable Age Medium Expression -Social Restrictions -Limited social network25 - 28 yrs Medium Need -Married (Objective of beauty satisfied) High Expression -Social status/expectation -Lesser restraints
  • 116. Attitude to BeautyAGE GROUP NEED / EXPRESSION OF BEAUTY28 - 35 yrs Medium Need -Motherhood Low Expression -Less time for self -Involvement with family35 - 40 yrs Low Need -No concept of self Low Expression -All aspirations for children -Resigned to their lot in life
  • 117. Trends in Grooming PAST PRESENT & FUTURECharacteristics Characteristics•Traditional Beauty •Multidimensional personality(fair skin, long hair) •Education & Small jobs in additionLittle or no Education to home•Home Maker •More appearance and fashion conscious•Basic shringar (bindi/sindoor) •More indulgence on self•Sari •Acceptability of salwars / jeans•No makeup - only traditional •Greater use of cosmetics and groomingmethods of personal care products Simplicity & Subservience Beginnings of Empowerment
  • 118. Influencers to Concept of BeautyA) Social Network / Word of Mouth Friends - have the maximum credibility Mothers Sisters / Sister - in - law Classmates (esp. upmarket peers)B) Media Magazines, TV/Cinema, AdvertismentsC) ActressesD) Window DisplaysE) Shopkeepers esp on new products
  • 119. Achieving her dreams by looking beautiful…. Achievement Social Acceptance Freedom& Empowerment & Admiration & Independance •education •multi dimensional •romance & •‘do something’ •“Being better marriage /be useful than” •increased •greater material socialization comfortThese dreams reinforce the need to be beautiful andwell groomed
  • 120. Her Dreams...younger generation older generation• dreams are for • wish to realise attaining some aspirations through expression of self children
  • 121. However...will not -•brook social ostracism•break norms/rebelling•be immodest•attract attention & standout•neither have a high flying career nor ahousehold centric life
  • 122. Her Role Models Kiran Bedi • social service • widening her areas of influence Working/Educated Aishwarya Rai/Kajol Women : Teachers/ computers/typing • Good looking & smart • Some empowerment/ • Exuberant/‘Chanchal’ independence • Multidimensional • Stand on ones own feet • Modest • Indian • Respect/Admiration • Fun loving yet • In comfortable/non modest threatening surrounding...ALL WITHIN SOCIAL BOUNDARIES
  • 123. Role of Beauty•IndependenceFreedom of choiceWork, education SELF ACTUALISATION•Role as womanFeminine, supportiveAdmiration SELF ESTEEM Beauty•Reaffirm marital status BELONGINGNESS‘Not less than’•Within boundaries SECURITYTraditional BASIC / PHYSIOLOGICAL Beauty plays a role in moving up the hierarchy
  • 124. The Beauty Signatures
  • 125. About Beauty……There is only one benefit in the face care category. It has many faces, a myriad of looks, and can be achieved in many many different ways. It is something women universally believe in, and their hopes come to rely on countless jars, tubes and pots.……Whose jar they buy often comes down to whose dream they will believe. Who holds out the most hope? Who can they really believe? What the branded jars & tubes stand for ...
  • 126. Olay• Olay is a Brand about traditional, timeless, pleasing beauty. It is trusted, down-to- earth, mindful and familiar.• Olay’s beauty is for an independent, balanced woman, who appreciates the added authority that comes when she believes a product does what it says.• The Olay woman wants to look younger, although recently, Olay is helping her celebrate her age, with products that she knows will make a difference to her skin, because Olay very rationally communicates desired benefits (backed up by third party endorsements).• Olay is also for the practical, realistic woman who accepts ageing with grace.(and does not believe the hype, anyway, of many anti-ageing claims.)• Olay’s beauty theory is widening lately - to also encompass the belief that a woman’s beauty has as much to do with her energy and her personality, as it does with her skin.
  • 127. L’Oreal• L’Oreal has prestige & allure that capitalises on a scientific, innovation driven heritage, and French beauty expertise. It represents achievable glamour, confidence, and a worldly professionalism.• L’Oreal’s beauty theory is focussed on perfection: the attainment of perfect skin, and perfect hair. It is an aspirational, sophisticated, innovative, aesthetic beauty, idealised to the icons of the moment from the world of film or fashion.• Famous ‘perfect’ faces best capture L’Oreal’s beauty. L’Oreal holds out the hope that every woman deserves the ultimate in scientific skin care advancements to make them more glamorous and beautiful.
  • 128. L’Oreal’s Beauty Theory (contd...)• The L’Oreal woman is perceived as self confident and self-indulgent. She is a highly aspirational woman who wants to fight ageing all the way, and always looks for the latest new product news.• The glam women who adorn L’Oreal are Claudia Schiffer, Vanessa Williams, Andie McDowell, Milla Jovovich, Uma Thurman….. and the likes
  • 129. • Nivea is a warm hearted, caring brand in the world of beauty. Its natural, family associations imbue it with a sense of care and trustworthiness in the category.• It has a strong heritage, and in a category rife with ‘skeptics’, is seen as a reliable and trustworthy brand.• There is clearly a healthy outdoors aspect to Nivea’s theory of beauty (Nivea Visage). It offers a beauty world filled with (blonde) healthy young women who are actively athletic, fit, and enjoy being outdoors. Yet Nivea also offers a more refined refuge: feminine, classy, subtle, relevant and intelligent..
  • 130. Nivea Visage (contd…)• Nivea theory of beauty has many interpretations.• Aspects of the Nivea personality are both modern and innocent. Nivea beauty is softly feminine, graceful…… caring.• It is cosmetic, but also ‘all family’, and always reliable.
  • 131. Neutrogena’s Beauty Theory• Neutrogena’s beauty is a healthy, young beauty. It is about care, maintenance, and prevention. A healthy approach to skin, for healthy skin. And for a sheer, crisp, modern beauty.• Neutrogena offers a fresh, squeeky clean approach to skin care. It does not make nor does it accept, excuses. It is idealised to the young icons of the moment. Not perfect beauty. But lively beauty, young and always glowing.• Neutrogena is also energetic beauty, and the healthy skin it offers you keeps your beauty transparent.• Neutrogena is credible and trustworthy, and is always dermatologist recommended, so you can trust it to really do what it says.
  • 132. Estee Lauder Estee Lauder presents products that are ‘luxurious, classic and aspirational’. Renowned for its high quality, innovative and technologically advanced products. The Estee Lauder beauty is sophisticated, confident & a trendsetter. It is a ‘label name’ and Liz Hurley accentuates that with her celebrity status, carried off with a lot of panache & style.
  • 133. Lancôme Paris - The Irresistiblé French charm• Lancôme believes that beauty is a rose that holds out to the whole world. Here beauty of a woman goes way beyond appearances, as an emotion lying at the very surface of skin• When daring culture and charm combine with beauty, the result is French-style art of living which Lancôme delights in delivering to the whole world. An art of living bathed in soft tones of simple and refined elegance• Lancôme balances its technological innovations & scientific know-how with products scented with a dash of sensuality & allure.• Lancômes muses are women who know how to maintain their mystery with humor. They incarnate harmony and vitality, audacity and love of life.• From 1983-1995 Isabelle Rossellini established the image of the Lancôme woman - woman of original beauty sublimated by intelligence, action and audacity. She was followed other femme fatales who while being hypnotic are spontaneous and mischievous.
  • 134. Dove (draft )• Dove beauty has as much to do with how a woman feels, as how she looks• For Dove, beauty is strength, a sense of confidence and the attractiveness that comes from a woman who fundamentally believes in herself and in her femininity.• Dove’s beauty is a confident feminine beauty. The total woman is what matters, inside and out. Not just her hair, or how her skin looks. But rather how she feels in herself, and as a woman.• The Dove woman is attractive, warm, genuine, and understands the power of a smile. She will often have a twinkle in her eye. She is charismatic, thoughtful, spontaneous, and believes it is important to look after herself. She wants to be the best she can be.• Her relationship with the Dove Brand has a strong foundation of respect, understanding, trust and high expectations, and the belief that Dove is a partner with whom she can indulge her sense of femininity.
  • 135. FACE CARE BRAND MATRIX Olay L’Oreal Nivea (Visage) NeutrogenaBrand Values Authoritative, Innovative, Warm, gentle Credible, trusted, authoritative caring, trusted trusted, knowledgeable, knowledgeable reliable innovative experienced hi-techBeauty Theory Timeless, Ideal beauty Natural Vibrant, traditional, (perfection) (healthy?) youthful pleasing beauty through scientific beauty thru’ beauty thru’ state-of-the-art science clean, healthy innovations skinCore Target Med to heavy Heavy category Light to med 16-30, light to category users users users (30+) med cat usersBenefits Anti ageing, Anti-ageing, Anti-age Pore mgmt, moisturisation, firming (younger (wrinkle free skin) ‘complete care’ looking skin) (healthy skin)
  • 136. FACE CARE BRAND MATRIX Olay L’Oreal Nivea (Visage) NeutrogenaReason toVitaniacin, Visible results Q10 AHAs forBelieve 3rd party in lmtd time, ingredient RTB clear clean endorsement ingredient as skin . Menu (proof) RTB of RTBProducts Protective Revitalift Alpha Flavon, Clear Pore Renewal Lotion Futur-e Moisturisers, range Total Effects Turning Point Anti-Ageing Healthy skin Line Eraser (anti-ageing) White Perfect Hydrafresh
  • 137. FACE CARE BRAND MATRIX Dove Estee Lauder LancômeBrand Values Credible, Prestige Innovations, nuturing innovation, hi-tech, authority affirming, luxury style capableBeauty Theory Confident Sophisticated Sensuous beauty feminine beauty beauty thru’ through tech supported thru’ healthy, innovative complete range of looked after skin. range of prodts prodts.Core Target Light-med Heavy category Heavy category category users users usersBenefits Skin nourishment, Anti-ageing, glowing Anti-ageing, glowing moisturisation, skin, nourishment skin, nourishment cleansing, nourished, glowing skin
  • 138. FACE CARE BRAND MATRIX Dove Estee Lauder LancômeReason to 1/4 moisturising Ingredients as RTB IngredientsBelieve cream as RTBProducts Cleansers, Anti-ageing range, Anti-ageing range, Moisturisers Moisturisers, Moisturisers, Colour Mgmt Colour Mgmt
  • 139. Beauty SignaturesOlay - TimelessL’Oreal - ‘Ideal’ beauty; perfectionNivea - Natural, healthy, warmNeutrogena - Healthy, youthful, cleanEstee Lauder - SophisticatedLancôme - SensuousDove - Confident femininity
  • 140. Beauty Definition Matrix SpiritINNATE DEVELOPED Body
  • 141. Savoir Faire Olay Bold L’OréaLa balanced woman, independent, inner character risk taker, upwardly mobile, wealthy, career,confident, doesn’t try to impress anyone or be liked successful, sex thru’ power, professional, confident Warm Hearted Spirit Enigmaticwarm, generous, inviting, sincere, maternal, mysterious, exotic, captivating, has a past,care-taking kind of person Nivea has secrets Joie de Vivre Refined Estee Lauderlife-loving, carefree, spirited, natural, fun, classy, subtle, refined, good taste, intelligentuninhibited, young, happy cultured, artistic INNATE DEVELOPED Innocent Chicl’il girls’ innocence, virginal, romantic, first kiss, woman who dresses in a chic but sporty way, wearsface bonnet pearl necklaces, Hermes scarf Lâncome Healthy Neutrogena Sensualhealthy, young woman, active, clean, outdoorsy, athletic, alluring woman, sensual,sporty, biking, hiking, horseback, riding, physically fit provocative, voluptuous, naked shoulder Natural Body Sexualnatural woman, unadorned, pure, nature oriented sexy, red hot, animalistic, erotic, dominated all nite sex, very sexually out there

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