0
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
Chapter 8Chapter 8
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 History of women’s apparelHistory of women’s apparel
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
1.1. Clothes made in the home, someClothes made in the home, some
homes even producing the ...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
3.3. 1910 – a blouse and skirt were sewn1910 – a blouse and skirt were sewn
together to mak...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 Pret-a-porter – (pret-ah-portay)Pret-a-porter – (pret-ah-portay)
french term for ready to...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 Garment District- Seventh Ave.Garment District- Seventh Ave.
(Fashion Ave.)(Fashion Ave.)
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 Garment District – Seventh AveGarment District – Seventh Ave
(Fashion Avenue)(Fashion Ave...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 UnionizationUnionization
 1900 – ILGWU- International Ladies Garment1900 – ILGWU- Intern...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 FIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORYFIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORY
 The Triangle factory, at Green...
The Triangle Factory Fire Con’tThe Triangle Factory Fire Con’t
 The fire occurred at the end of the day on March 25, 1911...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 CREATION OF WOMEN’SCREATION OF WOMEN’S
APPARELAPPAREL
1.1. Developing a lineDeveloping a ...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 SEASONAL LINESSEASONAL LINES
 SpringSpring
 SummerSummer
 Transitional (Fall I)Transit...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 Design Concept-Design Concept- Sketch developedSketch developed
on muslinon muslin
 Samp...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 Computer – Aided Design – (CAD) –Computer – Aided Design – (CAD) –
Computer image designC...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
2.2. Producing a lineProducing a line – Production– Production
begins when a sample pattern...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 CuttingCutting
Graded or SlopedGraded or Sloped – developed from– developed from
the sam...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 MarkerMarker – A long piece of paper– A long piece of paper
upon which the pieces of the ...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 The layers of material are placedThe layers of material are placed
accurately by aaccurat...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 BundlingBundling – pattern pieced tied into– pattern pieced tied into
bundles according t...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
2.2. SewingSewing- Most American- Most American
manufacturers are usingmanufacturers are us...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 TYPES OF PRODUCERSTYPES OF PRODUCERS
1.1. ManufacturersManufacturers
2.2. Apparel Jobbers...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
1. Manufacturer – performs all the– performs all the
operations required to productoperatio...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
2.2. Apparel Jobbers-Apparel Jobbers- handles thehandles the
designing, the planning, thede...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
3.3. ContractorContractor – is a producer whose– is a producer whose
sole function is to su...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 MASS PRODUCTIONMASS PRODUCTION
 Section work or piece workSection work or piece work – e...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 TRADITIONAL BASICTRADITIONAL BASIC
CATEGORIESCATEGORIES
a)a) Outerwear – coats, jacketsOu...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 TRADITIONAL BASICTRADITIONAL BASIC
CATEGORIES Con’tCATEGORIES Con’t
f)f) Bride & Bridesma...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 SIZE RANGESSIZE RANGES
a.a. Women’sWomen’s
b.b. MissesMisses
c.c. JuniorsJuniors
d.d. Pet...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 SPECIAL SIZESSPECIAL SIZES
 PetitesPetites
 Large SizeLarge Size
 MaternityMaternity
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 PRICE ZONESPRICE ZONES
1.1. Designer (highest prices)Designer (highest prices)
2.2. Bridg...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 Off-price apparel stores- the sellingOff-price apparel stores- the selling
of brand name ...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 MARKETING OF WOMEN’SMARKETING OF WOMEN’S
APPARELAPPAREL
 AdvertisingAdvertising
 Women’...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 PublicityPublicity
1.1. Supply celebrities with clothsSupply celebrities with cloths
2.2....
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 Trunk Shows give theTrunk Shows give the
designer or manufacturerdesigner or manufacturer...
Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
 QUICK RESPONSE -QUICK RESPONSE - A strategyA strategy
used by manufacturers to shorten th...
4 womens apparel (chap 8)
4 womens apparel (chap 8)
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Transcript of "4 womens apparel (chap 8)"

  1. 1. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel Chapter 8Chapter 8
  2. 2. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  History of women’s apparelHistory of women’s apparel
  3. 3. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel 1.1. Clothes made in the home, someClothes made in the home, some homes even producing the rawhomes even producing the raw materials such as cotton.materials such as cotton. 2.2. Custom-madeCustom-made-clothing fitted-clothing fitted specifically to the wearerspecifically to the wearer
  4. 4. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel
  5. 5. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel 3.3. 1910 – a blouse and skirt were sewn1910 – a blouse and skirt were sewn together to make the first RTWtogether to make the first RTW dressdress Ready to wear – clothing made in factories to standardize measurements.
  6. 6. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  Pret-a-porter – (pret-ah-portay)Pret-a-porter – (pret-ah-portay) french term for ready to wear.french term for ready to wear.
  7. 7. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  Garment District- Seventh Ave.Garment District- Seventh Ave. (Fashion Ave.)(Fashion Ave.)
  8. 8. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  Garment District – Seventh AveGarment District – Seventh Ave (Fashion Avenue)(Fashion Avenue)  WHY DID NYC BECOME THEWHY DID NYC BECOME THE CENTER OF THE GARMENTCENTER OF THE GARMENT INDUSTRY?INDUSTRY? 1.It had a large pool of cheap, immigrant labor. 2.It was located near textile producers in New England and the South 3.It was a port city
  9. 9. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  UnionizationUnionization  1900 – ILGWU- International Ladies Garment1900 – ILGWU- International Ladies Garment Workers UnionWorkers Union  1909-1910 strikes paved the way for collective1909-1910 strikes paved the way for collective bargainingbargaining  1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire -146 killed1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire -146 killed led to strict building codes and protective labor lawsled to strict building codes and protective labor laws  Today – 35 hr 5 day work week, paid vacations,Today – 35 hr 5 day work week, paid vacations, health, welfare and pension programshealth, welfare and pension programs LOOK FOR THE UNION LABELLOOK FOR THE UNION LABEL
  10. 10. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  FIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORYFIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORY  The Triangle factory, at Greene Street andThe Triangle factory, at Greene Street and Washington Place near the New YorkWashington Place near the New York University law school, made shirtwaists, orUniversity law school, made shirtwaists, or woman’s blouses. The blouse and skirt waswoman’s blouses. The blouse and skirt was the uniform of the truly modern woman.the uniform of the truly modern woman. Unlike corsets and hoops, the shirtwaist wasUnlike corsets and hoops, the shirtwaist was practical, and appropriate for the factory.practical, and appropriate for the factory.
  11. 11. The Triangle Factory Fire Con’tThe Triangle Factory Fire Con’t  The fire occurred at the end of the day on March 25, 1911, asThe fire occurred at the end of the day on March 25, 1911, as workers were getting ready to leave. Some were primping forworkers were getting ready to leave. Some were primping for dates that evening, others had stopped to chat with friends ondates that evening, others had stopped to chat with friends on their way out. As was customary at Triangle’s closing time,their way out. As was customary at Triangle’s closing time, some doors were locked: Management wanted all the workers tosome doors were locked: Management wanted all the workers to leave by the same exit, so their bags could be checked for stolenleave by the same exit, so their bags could be checked for stolen goods. Many workers’ deaths were attributed to these lockedgoods. Many workers’ deaths were attributed to these locked doors. In all, 146 people died. Some burned to death, whiledoors. In all, 146 people died. Some burned to death, while others jumped to their deaths to escape the flamesothers jumped to their deaths to escape the flames
  12. 12. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  CREATION OF WOMEN’SCREATION OF WOMEN’S APPARELAPPAREL 1.1. Developing a lineDeveloping a line  Collection – expensive lineCollection – expensive line
  13. 13. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  SEASONAL LINESSEASONAL LINES  SpringSpring  SummerSummer  Transitional (Fall I)Transitional (Fall I)  Fall (Fall II)Fall (Fall II)  Resort/ HolidayResort/ Holiday
  14. 14. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  Design Concept-Design Concept- Sketch developedSketch developed on muslinon muslin  Sample hand-Sample hand- designer’s assistant,designer’s assistant, seamstressseamstress
  15. 15. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  Computer – Aided Design – (CAD) –Computer – Aided Design – (CAD) – Computer image designComputer image design
  16. 16. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel 2.2. Producing a lineProducing a line – Production– Production begins when a sample pattern isbegins when a sample pattern is created and presented to retailcreated and presented to retail buyers at manufacturer’s seasonalbuyers at manufacturer’s seasonal shows. Orders are placed orshows. Orders are placed or dropped.dropped.
  17. 17. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  CuttingCutting Graded or SlopedGraded or Sloped – developed from– developed from the sample pattern, adjusted to meetthe sample pattern, adjusted to meet dimensional requirements of eachdimensional requirements of each size.size.
  18. 18. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  MarkerMarker – A long piece of paper– A long piece of paper upon which the pieces of the patter ofupon which the pieces of the patter of a garment in all its sizes are outlineda garment in all its sizes are outlined and which is placed on top of manyand which is placed on top of many layers of material for cuttinglayers of material for cutting purposes.purposes.
  19. 19. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  The layers of material are placedThe layers of material are placed accurately by aaccurately by a spreader.spreader.  After pieces are cut , they areAfter pieces are cut , they are bundledbundled
  20. 20. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  BundlingBundling – pattern pieced tied into– pattern pieced tied into bundles according to their sizesbundles according to their sizes
  21. 21. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel 2.2. SewingSewing- Most American- Most American manufacturers are usingmanufacturers are using off-shoreoff-shore production-production- the manufacture ofthe manufacture of American goods in cheap laborAmerican goods in cheap labor foreign countriesforeign countries
  22. 22. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  TYPES OF PRODUCERSTYPES OF PRODUCERS 1.1. ManufacturersManufacturers 2.2. Apparel JobbersApparel Jobbers 3.3. ContractorsContractors
  23. 23. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel 1. Manufacturer – performs all the– performs all the operations required to productoperations required to product apparel, from buying the fabric toapparel, from buying the fabric to selling and shipping the finishedselling and shipping the finished garment.garment.  Adv.Adv. – close quality control can be– close quality control can be maintained.maintained.
  24. 24. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel 2.2. Apparel Jobbers-Apparel Jobbers- handles thehandles the designing, the planning, thedesigning, the planning, the purchasing, usually the cutting, thepurchasing, usually the cutting, the selling, and the shipping, but not theselling, and the shipping, but not the sewing operation.sewing operation.
  25. 25. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel 3.3. ContractorContractor – is a producer whose– is a producer whose sole function is to supply sewingsole function is to supply sewing services to industry. It is sometimesservices to industry. It is sometimes called ancalled an outside shopoutside shop..
  26. 26. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  MASS PRODUCTIONMASS PRODUCTION  Section work or piece workSection work or piece work – each– each sewer sews only a certain section of thesewer sews only a certain section of the garment such as a sleeve or hem.garment such as a sleeve or hem.
  27. 27. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  TRADITIONAL BASICTRADITIONAL BASIC CATEGORIESCATEGORIES a)a) Outerwear – coats, jacketsOuterwear – coats, jackets b)b) DressesDresses c)c) Sportswear and SeparatesSportswear and Separates d)d) After- five and eveningAfter- five and evening e)e) SuitsSuits
  28. 28. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  TRADITIONAL BASICTRADITIONAL BASIC CATEGORIES Con’tCATEGORIES Con’t f)f) Bride & Bridesmaid attireBride & Bridesmaid attire g)g) BlousesBlouses h)h) Uniforms & ApronsUniforms & Aprons i)i) MaternityMaternity
  29. 29. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  SIZE RANGESSIZE RANGES a.a. Women’sWomen’s b.b. MissesMisses c.c. JuniorsJuniors d.d. PetitesPetites
  30. 30. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  SPECIAL SIZESSPECIAL SIZES  PetitesPetites  Large SizeLarge Size  MaternityMaternity
  31. 31. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  PRICE ZONESPRICE ZONES 1.1. Designer (highest prices)Designer (highest prices) 2.2. BridgeBridge 3.3. Better (medium- high prices)Better (medium- high prices) 4.4. Moderate (medium prices)Moderate (medium prices) 5.5. Budget (lower prices)Budget (lower prices)
  32. 32. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  Off-price apparel stores- the sellingOff-price apparel stores- the selling of brand name and designer labelof brand name and designer label merchandise at lower than normalmerchandise at lower than normal retail prices.retail prices.  EX: Marshall’s, TJ MaxxEX: Marshall’s, TJ Maxx
  33. 33. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  MARKETING OF WOMEN’SMARKETING OF WOMEN’S APPARELAPPAREL  AdvertisingAdvertising  Women’s Wear DailyWomen’s Wear Daily  WW  Vogue, Harpers BazaarVogue, Harpers Bazaar
  34. 34. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  PublicityPublicity 1.1. Supply celebrities with clothsSupply celebrities with cloths 2.2. Fashion Shows and Press Weeks.Fashion Shows and Press Weeks. 3.3. Trunk Shows- A form of pre-testingTrunk Shows- A form of pre-testing that involves a producer’s sending athat involves a producer’s sending a representative to a store with samplesrepresentative to a store with samples and exhibiting those to customers atand exhibiting those to customers at announced showings.announced showings.
  35. 35. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  Trunk Shows give theTrunk Shows give the designer or manufacturerdesigner or manufacturer the opportunity to meetthe opportunity to meet customers in the storecustomers in the store and obtain anand obtain an on-siteon-site reactionreaction to the line andto the line and promote salespromote sales
  36. 36. Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel  QUICK RESPONSE -QUICK RESPONSE - A strategyA strategy used by manufacturers to shorten theused by manufacturers to shorten the ordering cycle to compete withordering cycle to compete with foreign importsforeign imports
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