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Love it or hate it, Berlin is a place where street culture flourishes. From the boulevards of Charlottenburg to the back alleys of Kreuzburg, the city is awash with creative industry, political ideology and a Do - It - Yourself attitude that pervades art, music literature and food.

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Sample curso eg_berlin_juli2012_travel_writing

  1. 1. BCTR2012 BERLIN CITY GUIDE 2012 2
  2. 2. BERLINCITYGUIDE2012
  3. 3. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012 CONTENT HIDDEN GEMS HIDDEN GEMS TELL LITTLE STORIES ABOUT THE CITY OF BERLIN. ENJOY READING ONE IN EVERY MAIN SECTION ! PASSPORT AT CHECKPOINT CHECKPOINT CHARLIE CHARLIE Introduction PAGE 8 - 9 Accomodation PAGE 23 BERLINER’S VOICE BY JOSEPH LINNHOFF BY JOSEF LINNHOFF PAGE 58 9 important dates of Berlin The Circus Hostel 1237 First documented Ostel BERLINER’S VOICE INTERVIEWS mention of Cölln, a tiny island Pfefferbett Hostel LOCALS TO GET INSIDER in the River Spree INFORMATION ON THE MUST-SEE SPOTS Our selections Museums, Monuments OF THE CITY. PAGE 10 -13 and Galllerie PAGE 25 THE BIBLICAL BEER GARDEN BY JOSEPH LINNHOFF 24 hours in Berlin Once described as a city which PAGE 33 Anja, 45 : ‘I would PAGE 63 A week-end in Berlin is always becoming and never definitely recommend ’ being it comes as no surprise KNUT THE POLAR BEAR that Survival guide PAGE 79 Claudia, 36 : ’I would PAGE 14 -15 recommend going on a boat ’ KADEWE SHOPPING CENTER Museums Getting here and DELICATESSEN DIPPING going home The Old Museum 27 PAGE 107 Anna, 21 : ‘The US BY JOSEPH LINNHOFF Berlin, the safest city Anne Frank Centre 28 Listening Station ’ PAGE 90 Laws Anti-War Museum 29 Internet in Berlin Berlinische Galerie : Museum PAGE 40 Bodo, 63 : ’I would Embassies of Modern Art, Photography recommend a walk along ’ and Architecture 30 Bode Museum 31 Berlin by area PAGE 74 Camilla, 59 : ‘Berlin offers German Cinematic Museum PAGE 16 -19 so much in terms of theatre ’ DOWN TO KÖLLNISCHER PARK for Film and Televison 32 BY ABBY POULTON Mitte Deutsches Historisches Kreuzberg Museum 33 PAGE 43 Christoph, 31 : ‘My PAGE 78 Charlottenburg Jewish Museum 34 favourite is the Pergammon ’ Prenzlauer Berg The Kreuzberg Museum 35 THE BEAR, SYMBOLE OF BERLIN CITY Friedrichshain Helmut Newton Foundation 36 PAGE 122 Haci Baba, 42 : ’My Tiergarten Neues Museum 37 favorite place in the city is ’ Schöneberg Pergamon Museum 38 KNUT IS KING BY Further outs in Berlin Stasi Museum 39 PAGE 85 Funda, 25 : ’I usually ABBY POULTON Willy Brandt Forum 40 spend an entire sunday ’ PAGE 127 Transport PAGE 20  Monuments PAGE 135 Peter, 27 : ’For U-Bahn Tickets Berlin Cathedral 42 restaurants, the Unsicht Bar ’ Public transport Brandenburg Gate 42 BURGERS IN BOGS BY JOSEPH LINNHOFF CONTRIBUTORS : Berlin : Ins and Outs City Guide  2012. Editor in Chief  Sam Bavin Section Editors Greig PAGE 137 Easton, Jess Cole, Sian Sugars, Lisa Jahanarai, Tim Blore, Alicia Ramsay, Cate Hopkins, Kate Neuswanger, Abby Poulton Writers Tim Blore, Alicia Ramsay, Cate Hopkins, Jessica Cropper, Josef Linnhoff, Sam Bavin, Lisa Jahanarai, Greig Easton, Adam Nash, Sian Sugars, Diana Szentgyörgyi, Abby Poulton, Jess Cole, Kate Neuswanger, James Storbeck, Elsa Mcbride Graphique Designer Diana Szentgyörgyi Photo Editor Sian Sugars Illustrations by Elsa Mcbride. Berlin : Ins and Outs City Guide  2012 is made thanks to Berlin City Travel Review Summer Program, July Session 2012.
  4. 4. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012 CONTENT Checkpoint Charlie 44 Bars KaDeWe - Kaufhaus Mein Haus am See 145 WALKING TOURS Buddhist House 45 des Westerns 106 Wonder Waffle 146 Bei Schlawinchen 81 Memorial to the Murdered Kaufhalle - Berlin 107 Blackland 82 PAGE 20 S41 AND S42 CIRCLE TOUR Jews of Europe 46 Dazzle Rock Club 83 Ocelot, not just another Restaurants If you find yourself in Berlin for an extended stay and are looking The Wall at Bernauer bookstore 108 The Fat Landlady 84 Cancùn 147 for an alternative to a bus By KATE NEUSWANGER Strasse 47 Overkill. Sneakers Dr Pong 84 Lucky Leek 148 Television Tower 48 and Graffiti 109 House of 100 Beers 85 The Nordic Embassies 149 PAGE 22 THE 100 BUS TOUR Humboldt University 49 Saint George’s Book Shop 110 Monarch 86 Paglia Pizzeria 150 The public bus route 100 provides a cheap way to take in many of Olympic Stadium 50 Sony Centre 111 Strandbar 86 Soupkultur 151 Berlin’s major historical sites and attractions By KATE NEUSWANGER Reichstag 51 UB+Frey 87 Saint Hedwig’s Cathedral 52 Markets The Victory Column 53 VErkehrsBeruhigte Contributors PAGE 152 -155 Ost Zone 88 Antikmarkt 112 PAGE 41 BERLIN DARK WORLDS UNDERGROUND WALKING Soviet War Memorial 53 Weinerei Forum 89 DaWanda Designer TOUR This is just one of several intriguing tours run by Berliner Yorckschlösschen 89 Mitte Unterwelten e.V. The exploration takes you By ADAM NASH Market 112 Galleries Mauerpark Market 113 Prenzlauer Berg Friedrichshain Bauhaus-Archiv 54 Clubs Kreuzberg PAGE 113 STERN UND KREIS BOAT TOURS Hamburger Bahnhof 55 Street Culture PAGE 117 Schöneberg Discover a different view of Berlin by exploring the city’s various Berghain 90 KW Institute for Cassiopeia 91 Love it or hate it, Berlin is Tiergarten canals and bridges via a boat tour By KATE NEUSWANGER Contemporary Art 56 Club der Visionaere 92 a place where street culture Charlottenbourg LUMAS Gallery 57 Gretchen 93 flourishes Lichtenberg The New National Gallery 58 PAGE 120 ALTERNATIV BERLIN FREE TOUR Kaffee Burger 94 Treptow The Story of Berlin 59 Alternative Berlin’s free daily tours offer you a glimpse into the city’s Matrix 95 Burgerium 121 Zehlendorf Topography of Terror 60 vibrant creative arts community. By CATE HOPKINS Tresor 96 Clash 122 Frohnau Circle Culture Gallery 124 Outdoors PAGE 61 CurryWürst - Biers im Beer Gardens In a place as vibrant as Berlin, Kaffee at Neuen See 97 S-Banhof 124 FEATURES it is very easy for visitors to East Side Gallery 126 Prater Biergaten 98 Hatch Sticker Museum 128 become preoccupied with EL BOCHO CITIZEN CAMPAIGN DEDICATED FOLLOWERS ZIELONA GÒRA COLLECTIV HOUSE seeing and doing as much as Kannopke’s Imbiss 129 OF BERLIN’S FASHION possible. Shopping, Markets and Kunsthaus Tacheles 129 PAGE 96 Fashion PAGE 99 Mustafa’s 130 Alexanderplatz 63 Nil Sudanesischer Imbiss 131 Every July circus tents fill with From high-end fashion chains Bebelplatz 63 Rosenthalerstrasse N°39 132 the beautiful and fashion to free-for-all flea markets, Berliner Zoo 64 obsessed hipsters of Berlin quaint little bookshops to kitsch Botanical Gardens 65 gift shops Cafes and Restaurants Gendarmenmarkt 67 PAGE 133 Görlitzer Park 68 ALIAS Absinthdepot 101 Berlin’s international culinary PAGE 119 Karl Marx Allee 69 Another Country 102 Kollwitzstrasse 70 scene is setting the stage for the Dialogue Book Shop 103 city to become a serious foodie Every July circus tents fill with Lake Schlachtensee 70 Fassbender and Rausch 104 the beautiful and fashion Nikolaiviertal 71 destination Hilly’s Second Hand obsessed hipsters of Berlin Peacock Island 72 Clothes Shop 105 who gravitate in their crowds Potsdamer Platz 73 Cafes towards the pulsating music Schlossgarten 74 Tiergarten 76 ENTRANCE ANOTHER COUNTRY Aldemir Eis 135 EL BOCHO COLLECTIVE HOUSES Treptower Park 77 BrezelBar LeseLounge 137 PAGE 127 BERLIN’S BOOMING PAGE 123 Unter den Linden 78 Café Anna Blume 138 VEGETARIAN - El Bocho is one of Berlin’s more Shortly after the wall came Caffè E Gelato 139 VEGAN SCENE prolific and well-known down, Berlin was dotted with Bars, Clubs and Beer Cafe im Literaturhaus 139 street artists, whose paste- PAGE 136 squat houses. Anarchists, Gardens PAGE 79 Café Kotti 140 Double Eye 142 ups can be found all around Berlin’s already diverse hippies and artists saw Not many places in the world Espresso Ambulanz 142 Friedrichshain, Prenzlauer Berg culinary scene now boast the abandoned buildings can compete with Berlin when Kauf Dich Glücklich 143 and Kreuzberg. a plethora of delicious in the east it comes to the diversity Kollwitzer Back 144
  5. 5. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012 INTRODUCTION HISTORY commerce, a full history of which on 13th August with the construc- 9 IMPORTANT can be found on the guided walk tion of the Berlin Wall. There is around Nikolaiviertal. GO TO PAGE 71 now a physical divide between World War I breaks out and communist East and capitalist a tumultuous period in Germany West, the scars of which are inde- 1914 history com- libly marked on the city. Parts of DATES mences. Even- the wall still stand at East Side tual defeat in Gallery (page…), and the border France, fleeing persecution and 1918 brings the crossing has been reproduced at seeking refuge. To find out more bloody threat of civil war to the Checkpoint Charlie. GO TO PAGE 44 1685 about how streets of Berlin. Democracy is The government of East Ger- OF these French established at the Treaty of Ver- many (the GDR) collapses, 1989 Protestants inte- sailles in 1919 and the borders are grated into Roaring Twenties are born. opened and the German life, visit Gendarmen- Berlin is a cultural hotbed Wall is pulled BERLIN markt. GO TO PAGE 67 of architecture, film and down amid Frederick II becomes King of literature. To find out more, visit great jubilation. Germany is not Prussia. Frederick was a great The Film Museum (page…), The officially reunited until 1990 but reformer and his reign sees the Bauhaus Archives (page…) or take the process has been established period of history known as the a stroll around Potsdamer Platz. and, in doing so, a whole new era Enlightenment start in Berlin long GO TO PAGE 73 is established. A symbol of this 1933 before it reached other parts of After fourteen new age of prosperity and growth 1237 First docu- Europe. His reforms revolutionised years of poli- can be seen at the Reichstag mented men- the arts, politics and the legal tical instabi- (page…), which is now the seat tion of Cölln, system which, along with his mili- lity, economic of the united German government. a tiny island in tary prowess and master musi- disaster and mass impoverishment, GO TO PAGE 51 1740 the River Spree, and its cianship ear- democracy fails. Hitler becomes With economic prosperity and neighbouring farm town of ned him the Chancellor of Germany and with political stability, Germany is Berlin. It would be two hun- nickname him brings the horror and devas- emerging from the shadows of the 2012 dred years before the two ‘The Great.’ tation of Nazi Germany. The twentieth cen- towns are amalgamated to form To see Berlin as Frederick the Great full scale of this dark period tury. Berlin is one city. Although no longer a saw it, visit Unter Den Linden. can be found at the Topogra- co n s i d e re d centre for shipping and trade, the GO TO PAGE 78 phy of Terror. GO TO PAGE 60 one of the Spree still plays a vital role in Otto van Bismarck leads World War II has been fought hippest cities in Europe and its Berlin’s economy as it attracts Germany to victory in the and lost. The resulting Battle of history, diverse culture and creative 1961 thousands of tourists every year. Franco-Prussian War. Germany is Berlin has left the arts scene attracts tourists from To find out about boat tours on the officially united and Berlin is made city politically worldwide. There has truly never River Spree. GO TO PAGE 113 the Imperial capital. The already and ideologi- been a better time to say “Ich bin ein 1871 With the Edict of Potsdam, flourishing cally divided Berliner.” GO TO PAGE 120 CATE HOPKINS Germany becomes a Protestant city is now between the Allied Powers of Bri- country. Berlin sees a huge influx a hub of tain, France, the USA and the of Huguenot refugees from trade and USSR. This division is compounded9 10
  6. 6. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012 OUR SELECTION 24 HOURS IN BRANDENBOURG GATE AT THE END OF UNTER DEN LINDEN PAGE 42 HEAD TOWARDS the neighbouring Brandenburg Tor whose magnificent BERLIN grandeur and iconic REICHSTAG GLASS DOM presence is sure to me- morise you for some time. BY GREIG EASTON WITH AN OVERWHELMING VARIETY OF PAGE 51 BEGIN THE DAY ATTRACTIONS with an early rise in order to beat the crowds SCATTERED to the breathtaking KAUF DICH GLÜCKLICH CAFE AND ICE CREAM SHOP parliamentary facility, the Reichstag. THROUGHOUT UNTER DEN LINDEN AVENUE BERLIN, THIS ITINERARY SELECTS THE PICK-OF- THE-BUNCH PAGE 143 FINISH THE DAY FOR THOSE PAGE 78 EAT FROM Einstein with a delicious waffles, Café on Unter Der Linden before tracking mouth-watering crepes WHOSE TIME back to immerse yourself in the somewhat spooky at Kauf Dich Glücklich. IS LIMITED. Denkmal für die Ermor- deten Juden Europas.11 12
  7. 7. THE TITLE OF OUR GUIDE CONTRIBUTORS Moving her way Media, Culture, and designer, architecture from the quaint Society, she enjoys buff and queen of style. village of Norton to the people watching and Originally from Buda- bustling city of Man- spending the afternoon pest, she trained at the chester, Abby came to with friends in Berlin’s prestigious Ecole D’Art Berlin for a new adven- numerous outdoor et de Design D’Amiens ture and has enjoyed spaces. You can find and adds Berlin to her the endless entertain- her on Sundays in already extensive list of ment this city has on Mauer Park where she cities that she has called offer. A Manchester enjoys the flea market 27, PARIS home. An inveterate 21, MIDDLESBROUGHT Metropolitan graduate and the fine karaoke animal lover, Diana’s AGE, CITY ABBY POULTON with a degree in crooners  DIANA perfect day would be GREIG EASTON SZENTGYÖRGYI spent at Berlin Zoo Greig, an interna- Glamour puss Diana chilling with her four - tional business Literature degree is far is our resident graphic legged friends  student from Edin- more than just her burgh, can usually be vintage hat and tote found framing preten- bag. Always up for a ‘bohemian chic’ style, tious photographs or beer or five, Alicia has Sam is actually a well- dominating doner enjoyed experiencing refined young man. kebabs. A master of the the city’s night culture Having now settled Scottish vernacular, a but never fails to attend down during the latter sip of a drink is a AGE, CITY her morning language 29, CARDIFF weeks of his stay, the definite no, but a ‘wee lessons. She is gifted not young women of Berlin swally’ is fine. He also ALICIA RAMSAY only at writing but at CATE HOPKINS can now breathe a doesn’t do things by This Aberdonian making friends with the Of all the cities Cate sigh of relief. When not halves. Whether it’s the going into the last locals and haggling at has called home, it’s frolicking or picnicking sauces on his 15th year of her English the Mauerpark market  Berlin that has captures in one of Berlin’s many kebab of the week or her heart. She fell in AGE, CITY parks, Sam’s input into his meticulous attitude love with the Street art, SAM BAVIN the editorial process towards his writing, CTR. When she isn’t gig- the coffee and the Despite his shabby, and layout has proved he wants it alles. Mit gling or singing in her Kicking Russian Disko. unkempt beard and invaluablew  pommes  ‘opera trained voice’, Her Berlin highlight was Jess enjoys relaxing in partying in a thunder Berlin’s many cafes with storm at Werschauer 23, SEATTLE of the many Shisha tea and cake, or soa- king up the nightlife with strasse U bahn station. She returns to Cardiff to JAMES STORBECK bars around the city while sampling a AGE, CITY a brandy. She is also a continue her studies in ‘The Bear’ has finally German beer or twelve. JESS CROPPER dab hand at rowing a Journalism and Media, made it to Berlin, and However we are still Jess, or ‘Big Jess’ boat and can seriously but will carry Berlin’s he is enjoying every waiting for him to as she is known, pop some shapes on the spirit of freedom with minute of it. You can conjure up the courage has been a vital asset to dancefloor  her wherever she goes  find him frequenting one to try a Currywurst 153 154
  8. 8. THE TITLE OF OUR GUIDE CONTRIBUTORS This young strap- for the kettle to boil or and teeth whiteners are ping 22 year-old checking the team sheet all applied vigorously is not afraid to get for the upcoming Fener- – that Tim’s day can stuck in. Very creative bahce fixture he’s at his really begin. Emotionally and contributes much favourite local kebab oversensitive, Tim takes to discussion, he took shop Haci Baba, tuc- great pleasure from some the lead on the hidden king into a monstrous of life’s more refined gems section as well as Döner. Despite being pleasures. When he’s not carrying out interviews an amateur at the game writing poetry about the AGE, CITY 22, PERTH for the Berl-insider of fives he’s been a beating of a butterflie’s AGE, CITY snippets. The tea-ma- pleasure to work, live TIM BLORE tiny wings, Tim’s joyful SIAN SUGARS king titan of the group, and share a footbath Its only upon com- nature and wit, combi- BeaHailing from JOSEF LINNHOFF when he’s not waiting with. Top lad. pletion of his 40 ned with his input into Perth, Australia, minute daily bathroom the museums section, has Sian has circumnavi- regime – where moistu- made him an invaluable gated the globe. As 23, MINNEAPOLIS rizers, tanning agents member of the team part of her Psycho- KATE NEUSWANGER logy degree from the Hailing from Min- University of Western neapolis, Minnesota, gregarious Glaswegian Australia, she studied Kate studied for her and a key team member. for a semester in Ame- degree at Iowa State Not only a talented rica, and later lived in University. Studying writer, Lisa is also a pro London – yet she still Nutrition only served at posing for pictures maintains that Berlin to enhance her love in photobooths, singing has felt most like home. for all things food rela- way she has expressed karaoke and dancing Find her cracking open AGE, CITY ted. Whilst in Berlin, this within the guide. until the sun comes up. a beer in Görlitzer Park, JESS COLE she has explored all In her own words, AGE, CITY Lisa is at her happiest looking every inch the Jess is a lover, not aspects of the different the most important thing when eating ice-cream, native Kreuzberger  a hater. She loves cuisines available and she has learnt in Berlin LISA JAHANARAI on a bike, listening to Berlin, beer and writing has managed to make is that ‘There’s nothing Lisa, an English Lite- Prince and swigging articles. She also used mouths water with the worse than a dry wurst’ rature student, is a strawberry beer  to love kebabs, a lot. Unfortunately this is no longer the case. She AGE, CITY St Andrew’s University German on the locals, loves lazing about in ELSA MCBRIDE where she studies Elsa can be found the sun and partying till Elsa comes from Literature and Art dancing ‘til sunrise in the moon goes down. grassy Edinburgh History. Elsa is an one of Berlin’s trendy This English graduate to return to Berlin incredibly talented night clubs. She loves from Chichester has for her second time illustrator and her the city for it’s unpre- been quite a lot of fun, in as many years. artistic skills have been tentious attitude that 24, SHEFFIELD managing to work hard She is about to enter an asset to the team If encourages everyone AND play hard  her second year at she’s not practising her to come as they are  ADAM NASH155 156
  9. 9. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012 THE BEAR, SYMBOL READ ABOUT THE MOTHER AND DAUGHTER BEAR PAIR, MAXI AND SCHNUTE IN OUR HIDDEN GEM’S ‘DOWN TO KÖLLNISCHER PARK’ ON PAGE 78 OF THE CITY157 158
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